Spain Gourmetour 80 (2010)

Editor-in-chiefCathy Boirac

Publication CoordinatorsAlmudena Martín RuedaAlmudena Muyo

Photographic ArchiveMabel Manso

Editorial SecretaryÁngela Castilla

Design and Art DirectionManuel Estrada Design

MapsJavier Belloso

Color SeparationsEspacio y Punto

Printed in SpainArtes Gráficas Palermo

[email protected]

D.L.: M.51647-2002

ISSN: 1696-1021

NIPO: 705-10-014-1

CoverAlfredo

Information and PublisherICEXState Secretary for Trade andTourism, Ministry of Industry,Tourism and Trade.

www.icex.es

Subscription:Spain Gourmetour is apublication of the SpanishInstitute for Foreign Trade (ICEX)

of the State Secretary forTrade and Tourism, Ministry ofIndustry, Tourism and Trade.The magazine is issued threetimes a year in English,French, German and Spanish,and is distributed free of chargeto trade professionals.If you want to subscribe to SpainGourmetour please contact theEconomic and Commercial Officesat the Embassies of Spain (see liston pages 112-113).

Printed on PEFCcertified paperto promote theresponsiblemanagementof our forest.

EDIT

The opinions expressed bythe authors of the articles arenot necessarily shared by theSpanish Institute for ForeignTrade (ICEX), which cannot beheld responsible for anyomissions or error in the text.

2010 Le Cordon Bleu World FoodMedia Awards. Best Food Magazine

Spain has been a source of agricultural produce for the rest of Europe ever since Roman times.It comes as no surprise to learn, then, that it has emerged as one of the leading exporters oforganic products, despite the fact that its own domestic market for them is still little more thantentative. Spain’s canned and bottled fruit sector is, of course, another well-known source ofnatural goodness and provides many of us with a welcome dose of “sunshine in a bottle”.A more sinister aspect of nature was seen in the Phylloxera epidemic that decimated thevineyards of much of Europe in the late 19th-early 20th century. The fact that the Canary Islandsescaped that disaster unscathed endows the interesting wines they produce there today withadditional cachet.Sherry brandy—Brandy de Jerez—has a long history, though its name dates back only as far asthe 17th century, a period when the Netherlands imported it in vast quantities.They referred to it in Dutch as brandewijn (meaning “burnt wine”), the anglicized version ofwhich became “brandy”.Another neologism, very much of the 21st century, is the term “gastrobar”, coined to describea whole new take on that most Spanish and traditional of eateries, the tapas bar.Read all about it, but not before joining me in wishing González Byass—175 this year—manyhappy returns!

Cathy [email protected]

01 AF_EDITORIAL_2.qxd 5/8/10 08:36 Página 1

2 SEPTEMBER–DECEMBER 2010 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER–DECEMBER 2010 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 3

CONT

ENTS

Culinary FareGastrobars.21st Century Bites .............50

Food BasicsFruit Preserves.Preserving Spain ...............64

RecipesOriol Rovira......................78Organic Products ..............80

Business WatchGonzález Byass.The Nicest Trade...............90

ColophonHave a Spanish Break!Christopher Hall fromSan Francisco ...................96

Regular FeaturesLasting Impression............98Ad Index ........................110Spain Overseas ...............112Exporters........................114Credits............................116

Editorial ............................1

ColorsOrganic Agriculture.Natural Progression ..........12

WinesBrandy de Jerez.Quintessential Quality ......24

Canary Islands.Volcanic Survivors ............36

SPAIN GOURMETOURSeptember–December 2010 No. 80

02 AF_ SUMARIO_1.qxd 30/7/10 13:26 Página 2

SEPTEMBER–DECEMBER 2010 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 13

ORGANICOrganic agriculture in Spain has gone from strengthto strength, conquering overseas markets withimpressive ease. But one great challenge still awaitsthe segment, says Paul Richardson: the unexploitedbut strangely reluctant market in its own back yard.

Agriculture

03 AF_FRESCOS ECOLOGICOS_1.qxd 24/7/10 22:28 Página 12

15

How quickly the word has becomefamiliar to us. In the early 1970s itwas barely spoken except by a smallgroup of individuals on the fringes ofsociety, considered to be eccentrics,romantics, or “cranks”. Fast-forward40 years, and it’s a crucial term inthe discourse of modern living.We all think we know what it means,but in fact a strict definition is notas easy as you’d think. Here’s oneI came up with earlier: the wordorganic (biologique in French, ecológicoin Spanish, ökologisch or biologisch inGerman) refers essentially to a formof agriculture which avoids the useof chemical pesticides, weed killersand fertilizers, genetically modifiedorganisms, antibiotics and growthhormones. It seeks to return to amore traditional kind of farming inwhich the farmer worked withnature rather than against it,maintaining the fertility of the soil,promoting biodiversity, and workingfor the welfare of rural communities.Its goal is to produce healthy foodswith all their natural propertiesintact, replete with natural aroma,flavor and texture, and by

sustainable means. It is practiced inall the countries of the developedworld, including, ever more widelyand with ever greater commercialsuccess, in Spain. Organic farmingmay posit a return to simplicity, butthe bureaucratic structure of theorganic sector, like the connotationsof the word, is rather complex. Thisis mainly because, unlike theproducts of conventional agriculture,organic products need to be certifiedas such. In the case of Spain, theimportance of supervision andcontrol has given rise to a number ofcertifying bodies known as councilsor committees of organic agriculture,one or more in each AutonomousCommunity. These councils orcommittees are public entities whichreport to the regional government,with the exception of Andalusia andCastille-La Mancha, where they areprivate companies, and Aragón,where private and publiccertification bodies co-exist.Products destined for export mustcarry the seal of the regional councilor committee, plus the EU seal ofquality for organic produce (Brussels

launches a new, clearer logo in July2010); in addition, they may alsocarry the label of a certificationscheme in the country where theyare to be sold. Organics in Spainbegan life relatively late: the firstnational legislation was made in1989, though a small amount oforganic farming was already goingon, and the forward-thinking VidaSana Association, now major moversand shakers in the Spanish organicscene, had been operating their owninformal certification scheme since1981. A more comprehensive andrigorous Europe-wide regulation(EEC) 2092/91 was followed by the2007 Euro law on production andlabeling of organic goods, whichcame into effect on January 1st 2009.Spain’s enormous variety of climates,soil types and ecosystems give it amajor advantage over most otherEuropean countries in terms of whatis possible to grow and when. Butthere is another factor: thedynamism and flexibility of Spain’sfarming culture. Before Spaindeveloped a powerful touristeconomy, the country was essentially

14

COLORSTEXTPAUL RICHARDSON/©ICEX

PHOTOSJUAN MANUEL SANZ/©ICEX


2 SEPTEMBER–DECEMBER 2010 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER–DECEMBER 2010 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 3

CONT

ENTS

Culinary FareGastrobars.21st Century Bites .............50

Food BasicsFruit Preserves.Preserving Spain ...............64

RecipesOriol Rovira......................78Organic Products ..............80

Business WatchGonzález Byass.The Nicest Trade...............90

ColophonHave a Spanish Break!Christopher Hall fromSan Francisco ...................96

Regular FeaturesLasting Impression............98Ad Index ........................110Spain Overseas ...............112Exporters........................114Credits............................116

Editorial ............................1

ColorsOrganic Agriculture.Natural Progression ..........12

WinesBrandy de Jerez.Quintessential Quality ......24

Canary Islands.Volcanic Survivors ............36

SPAIN GOURMETOURSeptember–December 2010 No. 80

02 AF_ SUMARIO_1.qxd 30/7/10 13:26 Página 2

15

How quickly the word has becomefamiliar to us. In the early 1970s itwas barely spoken except by a smallgroup of individuals on the fringes ofsociety, considered to be eccentrics,romantics, or “cranks”. Fast-forward40 years, and it’s a crucial term inthe discourse of modern living.We all think we know what it means,but in fact a strict definition is notas easy as you’d think. Here’s oneI came up with earlier: the wordorganic (biologique in French, ecológicoin Spanish, ökologisch or biologisch inGerman) refers essentially to a formof agriculture which avoids the useof chemical pesticides, weed killersand fertilizers, genetically modifiedorganisms, antibiotics and growthhormones. It seeks to return to amore traditional kind of farming inwhich the farmer worked withnature rather than against it,maintaining the fertility of the soil,promoting biodiversity, and workingfor the welfare of rural communities.Its goal is to produce healthy foodswith all their natural propertiesintact, replete with natural aroma,flavor and texture, and by

sustainable means. It is practiced inall the countries of the developedworld, including, ever more widelyand with ever greater commercialsuccess, in Spain. Organic farmingmay posit a return to simplicity, butthe bureaucratic structure of theorganic sector, like the connotationsof the word, is rather complex. Thisis mainly because, unlike theproducts of conventional agriculture,organic products need to be certifiedas such. In the case of Spain, theimportance of supervision andcontrol has given rise to a number ofcertifying bodies known as councilsor committees of organic agriculture,one or more in each AutonomousCommunity. These councils orcommittees are public entities whichreport to the regional government,with the exception of Andalusia andCastille-La Mancha, where they areprivate companies, and Aragón,where private and publiccertification bodies co-exist.Products destined for export mustcarry the seal of the regional councilor committee, plus the EU seal ofquality for organic produce (Brussels

launches a new, clearer logo in July2010); in addition, they may alsocarry the label of a certificationscheme in the country where theyare to be sold. Organics in Spainbegan life relatively late: the firstnational legislation was made in1989, though a small amount oforganic farming was already goingon, and the forward-thinking VidaSana Association, now major moversand shakers in the Spanish organicscene, had been operating their owninformal certification scheme since1981. A more comprehensive andrigorous Europe-wide regulation(EEC) 2092/91 was followed by the2007 Euro law on production andlabeling of organic goods, whichcame into effect on January 1st 2009.Spain’s enormous variety of climates,soil types and ecosystems give it amajor advantage over most otherEuropean countries in terms of whatis possible to grow and when. Butthere is another factor: thedynamism and flexibility of Spain’sfarming culture. Before Spaindeveloped a powerful touristeconomy, the country was essentially

14

COLORSTEXTPAUL RICHARDSON/©ICEX

PHOTOSJUAN MANUEL SANZ/©ICEX


Editor-in-chiefCathy Boirac

Publication CoordinatorsAlmudena Martín RuedaAlmudena Muyo

Photographic ArchiveMabel Manso

Editorial SecretaryÁngela Castilla

Design and Art DirectionManuel Estrada Design

MapsJavier Belloso

Color SeparationsEspacio y Punto

Printed in SpainArtes Gráficas Palermo

[email protected]

D.L.: M.51647-2002

ISSN: 1696-1021

NIPO: 705-10-014-1

CoverAlfredo

Information and PublisherICEXState Secretary for Trade andTourism, Ministry of Industry,Tourism and Trade.

www.icex.es

Subscription:Spain Gourmetour is apublication of the SpanishInstitute for Foreign Trade (ICEX)

of the State Secretary forTrade and Tourism, Ministry ofIndustry, Tourism and Trade.The magazine is issued threetimes a year in English,French, German and Spanish,and is distributed free of chargeto trade professionals.If you want to subscribe to SpainGourmetour please contact theEconomic and Commercial Officesat the Embassies of Spain (see liston pages 112-113).

Printed on PEFCcertified paperto promote theresponsiblemanagementof our forest.

EDIT

The opinions expressed bythe authors of the articles arenot necessarily shared by theSpanish Institute for ForeignTrade (ICEX), which cannot beheld responsible for anyomissions or error in the text.

2010 Le Cordon Bleu World FoodMedia Awards. Best Food Magazine

Spain has been a source of agricultural produce for the rest of Europe ever since Roman times.It comes as no surprise to learn, then, that it has emerged as one of the leading exporters oforganic products, despite the fact that its own domestic market for them is still little more thantentative. Spain’s canned and bottled fruit sector is, of course, another well-known source ofnatural goodness and provides many of us with a welcome dose of “sunshine in a bottle”.A more sinister aspect of nature was seen in the Phylloxera epidemic that decimated thevineyards of much of Europe in the late 19th-early 20th century. The fact that the Canary Islandsescaped that disaster unscathed endows the interesting wines they produce there today withadditional cachet.Sherry brandy—Brandy de Jerez—has a long history, though its name dates back only as far asthe 17th century, a period when the Netherlands imported it in vast quantities.They referred to it in Dutch as brandewijn (meaning “burnt wine”), the anglicized version ofwhich became “brandy”.Another neologism, very much of the 21st century, is the term “gastrobar”, coined to describea whole new take on that most Spanish and traditional of eateries, the tapas bar.Read all about it, but not before joining me in wishing González Byass—175 this year—manyhappy returns!

Cathy [email protected]

01 AF_EDITORIAL_2.qxd 5/8/10 08:36 Página 1

16 17

any other Autonomous Community,since it has very little of the wide-ranging pastures, forests andextensive olive plantations that makeup the majority of organically-managed land in Andalusia, Castile-La Mancha and Extremadura.Organic plantations represent asmuch as a tenth of the region’savailable agricultural land. Theregion has experienced a boom of itsown in recent years: the number oforganic growers in Murcia increasedfrom 1,683 to 2,193 in 2008.Anyone who thought organicagriculture was all about head-in-the-clouds idealism, small scale andidyllic surroundings—hippies goingback to the land—would be amazedby the organic scene in Murcia.Organic fruit and veg is big businesshere: a full 90% of local productionis exported, overwhelmingly toGermany, bringing in 55 millioneuros annually to the local economy.On a sunny spring morning I visitedHortamira, one of 174 producerson the books at the CEAM.A co-operative in the coastal flatlands

outside Cartagena, Hortamira has320 producing members and arounda fifth of its production is organic,though much of the rest is producedunder the Integrated ProductionSystem, using a minimum ofchemical pesticides and herbicides.The co-op’s organic Pinver brandaccounts for an annual turnover of30 million euros.The warm, dry climate ofsoutheastern Spain makes the regionof Murcia ideal for winter cultivationof broccoli, celery, cabbage,cucumber, lettuce, peas, and citrusfruits like lemon and orange. At thetime of my visit, however, the co-opwas busy dealing with a massivecrop of peppers. Over the course ofthe annual pepper “campaign”, somy white-coated guide informed me,up to 3,000 tons (6,000,000 lb) ofpeppers can pass throughHortamira’s factory in San Javier.Today the packing plant wasworking at top speed; the air in thefactory was full of the sweet/soursmell of peppers. Color-coded lines(green for organic, red for

conventional) were calibrating theitems for size and weight, packingthem in threes in a transparent flow-pack. Where were they headed? ForGermany, Switzerland, Denmark,and the UK. (The red/yellow/redcombination, imitating the Spanishflag, is particularly popular abroad.)Outside in the fields, dirt trackswound between sprawlinggreenhouses of which this pepperplantation was just one of many.Nothing about this structure and itscontents would say “organic” to thecasual observer—until he or shelooked a little more closely at theweeds around the edge of the plasticsheetings (no herbicide allowed) and

COLORS

ORGANIC AGRICULTURE

rural and its economic baseessentially agricultural. It is noexaggeration to say that Spanishhistory is predicated on the energyand expertise of its farming industry.To this extent, it comes as nosurprise that the Spanish organicsector has come so far in such ashort time. Plotted on a graph, thegrowth in organic cultivation fromthe early 1990s until today isillustrated by a steep upward curve,beginning with 4,235 ha (10,464acres) in 1991 and culminating in1,602,868 ha (3,960,773 acres) in2009. It’s a matter for justifiablepride that Spain is now the EUmember country with the largestsurface area devoted to organicagriculture, ahead of Italy, France,and the United Kingdom, accordingto Eurostat. However you look at theorganic scene in Spain, the story isone of gradual but continuousdevelopment. The number of organicproducers (as opposed tomanufacturers or importers) in Spainrose steadily from 17,509 in 2005 to20,171 in 2007 and to 25,921 in

2009. Organic crops now representjust over 5% of all Spanishagriculture. The contribution ofindividual AutonomousCommunities to the organic freshproduce market is in large measure areflection of their dependence onagriculture in general. The leader intotal surface area devoted to organicagriculture is Andalusia (southernSpain) with 784,067 ha (1,397,471acres), though its predominance ispartly explained by the region’s vastexpanses of olive grove, dehesa(wooded pastureland), animalpasture and other extensive systems.This is followed at some distance byCastile-La Mancha (central Spain)with 119,668 ha (295,706 acres),then by Extremadura, in westernSpain (85,806 ha / 212,031 acres)and Aragón, in northeast Spain(70,494 ha / 174,194 acres). Whenit comes to manufacture, Catalonia(northeast Spain) is far and away themajor player in Spain, but as aproducer it accounts for only 4.48%of the total national surface area.

Think locally,act globallyMurcia, a Mediterranean region insoutheast Spain, is a point of interestin the general panorama of organicproduction. Though one of thecountry’s smallest AutonomousCommunities, the Región de Murciahas a rich horticultural tradition anda superb local gastronomy based ona deep appreciation of vegetablesand fruit. Murcia also has a longtradition of organic farming and wasa pioneer in the introduction oforganic fruit, vegetables, rice, nutsand cereals; according to José PedroPérez of the Consejo de AgriculturaEgológica de Murcia (Council ofOrganic Agriculture of Murcia,CAERM), the first crop in Spain tobe certified as organic wasCalasparra rice, as long ago as 1986.In the league of producing regionsMurcia comes in sixth, with a total of59,339 ha (146,6239 acres) givenover to organics. Proportionally,however, Murcia is far stronger invegetables and (especially) fruit than

Websites

· www.agroecologia.netSpanish Society of OrganicAgriculture (SEAE). (Spanish)

· www.vidasana.orgVida Sana Association. (Spanish)


16 17




COLORSORGANIC AGRICULTURE




Websites




19

general sense of sun-warmed flavor.Antonio Córdoba, who recentlyfounded a fine food export companycalled Organic Spanish Market,emphasizes the importance oftrustworthiness and professionalism.Foreign customers truly believe,according to Córdoba, that Spanishorganics are what they say they are,which cannot always be said of otherproducing countries; the efficiency ofSpanish supply networks is alsohighly valued.

Spanish organics:national prophets?It’s one of the ironies of the organicscene in Spain that, despite being ahugely important exporter of organicfoods in their raw state, the countryhas few organic manufacturers; theresult is that, of all the processedorganic foods consumed in Spain,more than half is imported from thesame countries that are suchenthusiastic importers of organicSpanish fresh produce: Germany,Holland, France, Italy, and the UK.

And this irony conceals a mystery:why is Spain such a poor consumerof its own organic produce? Foryears it seemed the Spanish wouldnever catch on to the organicmovement. While Germany andFrance saw the arrival of specialistsupermarkets where everything wasorganic, from baby clothes to coffeeand meat, and even the big chainshad a separate section for organicfruit and vegetables, in Spain theconcept still seemed remote from themajority of consumers. Even todaythe presence of organic products inthe Spanish high street is practicallynegligible, while awareness of theword ecológico and its significance isby no means universal. Organicproducts represent a tiny fraction,around 2%, of the country’s totalfood consumption, and annualexpenditure on eco products comesin at just 7.70 euros per person peryear, compared with the Europeanaverage of 30 euros.Several explanations are commonlyoffered for this state of affairs. First,Spanish consumers value freshnessabove all other considerations and

would rather buy an apple grown inthe next village by conventionalmethods than an organic one flownin from New Zealand. Second, theideological concerns of consumershere are not sufficient to compensatethem for the higher price of organicas opposed to “conventional”products. Third, the Spanish organicsector has no great interest indeveloping the local market since itcan make a much bigger profit byselling abroad, where, moreover, itsproducts are highly sought-after.Whatever the reason, it would seemlike a good idea to close the yawninggap between minimal domesticconsumption and maximum exports,as Spain runs the risk that otherproducer nations may step in to takeadvantage of an under-supplied localmarket. Organic food companiesnow occupy their own patch at anySpanish international food fair ofnote. Barcelona’s Alimentaria,Madrid’s Fruit Attraction andZaragoza’s Qualimen all havededicated organic sections.BioCórdoba, in October, is a well-established event covering organic

COLORS

18

the pepper plants with the sachetshanging from their stems. Organicfarmers around here use biologicalcontrol to eliminate pests (i.e. bugsthat eat other bugs) and plantextracts as fertilizers. The phosphateused derives from seaweed, thepotassium sulfate from a naturallyoccurring mineral. The seeds usedare organic. Rainwater is collectedfrom the plastic rooftop andchanneled into an artificial lake,then administered by a drip system.Ideologically the farm ticks all theboxes: what is extraordinary is itsenormous scale. Farmers aroundthese parts can have as many as 16ha (39 acres) under intensive organiccultivation. The organic portion ofthe Hortamira plantations accountsfor a total of 59 ha (145 acres),including as many as 40 ha (98acres) of organic peppers. Next doorto the greenhouse lies a citrus farm.My guide waves a hand in thedirection of the trees, which areorganically cultivated, but lookidentical to the conventional sort.“Those are lemons,” he says. “Roundhere we don’t give a thought to the

lemon. We don’t appreciate it, wejust take it for granted. Not like inGermany. Over there, they fight overa nice lemon, and even more so if it’sorganic.” This casual remark says agreat deal about the nature of theorganic sector in Spain, which hasturned its back on the local marketto concentrate on territories wherethe desire to eat and live organicallysprings from a committed lifestylechoice. Around 80% of Spanishorganic produce is exported, mainlyto Germany, the UK, France,Italy and Holland (in order ofimportance), according to theSociedad Española de AgriculturaEcológica (Spanish Society ofOrganic Agriculture, SEAE),a non-profit organization whoseremit is mainly promotion anddevelopment of organic agriculture.The great majority of these productsare fresh, non-processed foods,namely fruit, vegetables and nutswhich cannot be grown in northernclimates, organically or otherwise.As a traditionally agriculturaleconomy, as opposed to “industrial”nations like France or Germany,

Spain is still known abroadprincipally for its production offresh fruit and vegetables. As in theconventional sector, Spanishproducts are associated withripeness, flavor, vibrant color,and—especially in “southern European”vegetables like tomatoes, peppers,eggplant, as well as pitted fruit,melons, oranges and so on—with aquality impossible to reproduce inmore northerly latitudes. Thisexplains the high esteem in whichSpanish organic produce is held in amarket like Germany—by some waythe most sophisticated in Europe.Here, awareness of the organicconcept reaches 98% of thepopulation, and Germany is the EU’smajor importer of organic produce,some way ahead of both the UK andFrance. Dr. Klaus-Jürgen Holstein,editor of the German magazine EinHerz für Bio, suggests that Germanconsumers actively seek out Spanishorganics, and this tendency isespecially clear at the younger endof the market.But the appeal of Spanish organicproducts abroad goes further than a

ORGANIC AGRICULTURE


20 21

recitals, I attended a talk bynutritionist brothers Pascual andBenito Tárraga on the whys andwherefores of the organic diet,another on organic theories appliedto house building, and a fascinatinground table held by a group ofCatalan eco-chefs calling itself Km0,which has committed to usingtraditionally-produced ingredientsobtained as closely as possible to thekitchen. The KmO meeting wasgraced by the surprise appearance ofnone other than Carlo Petrini,founding father and high priest ofthe Slow Food Movement to whichmuch of the organic scene in Spainowes its inspiration.It all seemed to confirm what I hadbegun to suspect: that despite theSpanish domestic market’s lack ofinterest in its own excellent organic

produce, a sub-set of the market isboth ideologically engaged by theecological movement and deeplycommitted to the organic lifestyle.Though the big supermarkets arearguably lagging behind in theirsupply (indeed, there are those whoaffirm that the big supermarket as aretail model is, by its very nature,“anti-organic” and unsustainable),there are other places these days to

look for fresh organic produce.Farmers’ markets, commonly knownin Spain as “organic street markets”,are springing up like mushrooms onfall mornings in big cities likeMadrid, Barcelona and Zaragoza, asif to compensate for their latearrival on the scene. Small localfood marts specializing in organicsare also popping up with increasingregularity. Some of these, like TerraVerda, a Valencia-based chain with15 shops (2004) across the region,have their origins in the traditionalSpanish herb and spice store(herbolaria). Comme-Bio, a storewith a vegetarian restaurantattached, has two establishments inMadrid and two in Barcelona, whileVeritas sells 4,000 organic lines inits 19 supermarkets in Cataloniaand Andorra.

ORGANIC AGRICULTURE

olive oil, wine, fresh produce andprepared foods, and Ecocultura inZamora, a joint Portuguese/Spanishfair, is now in its seventh year.Organic fairs aimed at the nationalmarket are less common and occupya lower profile. Biocultura is oneexample. Held once a year in thecities of Madrid, Barcelona andValencia, this long-standing fair, 25years in the breach, originated inwhat might loosely be called the“alternative” scene but, like the sceneitself, has long since movedconsiderably closer to the socialmainstream. From Murcia I traveledup the Mediterranean coast toBarcelona, where Biocultura was infull swing. The market took placeover four days in the Palau SantJordi, on the hill of Montjuic, closeto the Olympic stadia that brought

Barcelona worldwide fame in theannus mirabilis of 1992. The viewfrom the Palau was a panorama ofthe city where, of all Spanishcapitals, the organic and ecologicalculture of the 21st century has madethe greatest inroads on the livesof its inhabitants.Of the 700 stalls at this year’sedition, roughly half showcased

organic produce in some form orother. Over the course of thatweekend I tasted my way throughSpanish organic products as diverseas honey, milk, wine, kombucha,rice, chocolate, cheese, pine nuts,beer, olive oil, saffron (from Teruel),and Ibérico ham (from Jabugo, noless). There were organic butchers,bakers, and caterers (organicweddings are apparently the latestthing). A number of companiesoffered equipment for growing yourown organic veg at home, withinnovative planting systems fromSpanish masters of domestic organichorticulture like Mariano Bueno andGaspar Caballero de Segovia. Theparallel activities at Biocultura havealways been a major element of thefair. Steering clear of the Reikimassage workshops and mantra


22 23

Spanish cuisine,enhanced byorganic productsThe world of Spanish cuisine hasbeen quick to recognize the value oforganic ingredients, seeing theseitems as an extension or refinementof the existing range of gourmetSpanish products. In October 2009,seven-Michelin-star chef SantiSantamaria organized a workshop onorganic products at his restaurantCan Fabes. Juan Mari Arzak, CarmeRuscalleda, Rodrigo de la Calle andAndoni Luis Aduriz are otherimportant Spanish chefs known tobe committed to the eco cause. Theera of the “eco-restaurant” is still inits infancy. The SEAE estimates thatthere are around 20 offeringexclusively organic menus in thewhole of Spain, a pioneer beingthe eco-vegetarian restaurantSarasate in Pamplona; however,the range is increasing.Initiatives bringing together Spanishchefs interested in organicingredients are beginning to make

pioneered in the USA and nowcommon in most Europeancountries, where the client takespot luck on a box of whatever fruitand vegetables are available inseason. The price for a 7 kg (15 lb)box, which can be ordered onlineor by phone: 30 euros, plus delivery.Joan has seen demand increase tothe point where the scheme nowconstitutes a full 85% of hisbusiness, and he has loyal customersin Bilbao, Valencia, Málaga andMadrid. If Spanish organicproducers want to open up theunexploited market in their ownback yard, it’s this sort of committedgrassroots initiative that may justmake the difference.

Paul Richardson lives on a farm innorthern Extremadura. A freelance traveland food writer, he is the author of A LateDinner: Discovering the Food of Spain(Bloomsbury, UK, and Scribner, USA).

We would like to extend our thanks toHortamira, Biocampo, Taranges Ebre,Joan Castellá and Hortec SCCC forcontributing their products to this report.

COLORS

their presence felt. An example isGalicia’s Grupo Nove, a coalition ofGalician restaurants including CasaMarcelo (Marcelo Tejedor is the chef)in Santiago de Compostela, CasaSolla (José González-Solla) in Poio(Pontevedra), and España restaurant(Héctor López) in Lugo. The grouphas an ongoing commitment toorganic produce, notably the freshproduce of Galicia under the aegis ofCRAEGA (the Galician organiccertification body) and from time totime offer ecological menus like thatof chef Hector López. A recentexample of Héctor’s special organicmenus featured dishes like Cream ofvegetables with Tetilla cheese foam,Fish of the day with seaweed andvinegar caramel, and Beef withturnip tops and quinoa. As aconsequence of his presence at the2009 BioFach fair in Nuremberg,Germany (one of the most importantorganic fairs in the world, with2,717 exhibitors), López is keenlyaware of the high esteem in whichSpanish organic products are heldin foreign markets.But the real revolution in Spanish

organics, as in so many aspects of21st century life, has happened throughthe World Wide Web. For the firsttime, the information that consumersmight previously have lacked aboutorganic practice and products isavailable at the click of a mouse. Moreimportantly, they can also buy thoseproducts online, cutting out themiddleman and creating a direct linkbetween producer and consumer:another of the organic movement’scherished ideals.If information and distribution werethe two weak points for Spanishorganics, the internet and mail orderhave made them less so. Take thevery good example of Joan Castelló,a farmer in Amposta, Montsiàcounty, Catalonia. Coming from atraditional country family, Joanbegan farming in 1979 but turned toorganics 13 years later, working withthe CCPAE (Council of OrganicAgriculture of Catalonia) forcertification. At first he and his wifesold almost everything to Germanyand France, but in 1996 theirbusiness took a radical turn. Theystarted a box scheme, of the sort

ORGANIC AGRICULTURE

1. BIOCAMPO

This is the cutting edge, the serious faceof Spanish organic vegetable productionon a high-powered scale. Biocampo is aproducer in San Pedro del Pinatar,Murcia, and a family business run by thethree Sapor brothers. The family begangrowing organically 15 years ago andhave seen business grow exponentially,with year-on-year increases of up to 30%.Biocampo now has 300 ha (741 acres) ofopen-air cultivation and 28 ha (69 acres)of greenhouses, of which 150 ha (370acres) belong to the company (the rest isrented land). The vast majority of its hugeproduction of onions, peppers, zucchini,cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, cabbage,maize, celery, leeks, artichokes, broadbeans, broccoli and citrus fruit go toFrance, Holland, Switzerland, the UnitedKingdom and, most importantly,Germany, which represents a full 60% ofits exports, and whose demand fororganic products is unwavering. InGermany, says Héctor López ofBiocampo, organic food is a seriousissue, and certainly isn’t based on whimsor fashions. “You eat organically, or youdon’t eat at all,” he jokes.

2. TARONGES EBRE

The Giné family farm in Tarragona, forgenerations an important local producer oforanges, know through experience thatorganic farming is no bed of roses. Thefamily switched over to the organic systemin 2006 partly out of conviction and partlyas a way of adding value to an undervaluedproduct. The obligatory four-year period ofconversion to the organic system has beenhard. The Ginés saw output plummet asthe trees, suddenly deprived of artificialfertilizers and herbicides, gave as much as50% less fruit. Disheartened, the familywas on the point of going back toconventional methods, but persisted, andnow have 70 ha (172 acres) under organic(out of a total of 77 ha / 190 acres). The2010 edition of Biocultura was one of theirfirst public appearances since goingorganic (this is the first year in which theircitrus fruit officially bear the organic label)and, says Octavi Garcia, son-in-law ofowner Joaquim Giné, the reaction to theirsuperb mandarin oranges, unwaxed anduntreated with an impressive depth offlavor, has been gratifying: “People like tobuy directly from the producer, and thatmakes us feel good.”

A tale of two organicproducers



BRANDYde Jerez

24 SEPTEMBER–DECEMBER 2010 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

Spirits distilled from sherry wine date back further than any othersin the Old World: distilleries are known to have existed in theDark Ages. Today, sherry brandies are found all over the world,and this year marks the 25th anniversary of Specific Denominationstatus for Brandy de Jerez, Spain’s leading “spirit drink” (as it isofficially categorized) and its most widely exported one.

Quintessential Quality

04 AF_EL VINO BRANDY_1.qxd 5/8/10 08:56 Página 24

26

In his Historia apasionada del Brandy deJerez (Enthusiast’s History of SherryBrandy), Andalusian author andjournalist José de las Cuevas (1918-1992) informs us that alcohol wasinvented by the Chinese, specificallyby Lao Tse (the Chinese philosopheron whose writings Taoism is based,and who lived in either the 6th or 4th

century BC, depending on the sourceconsulted). Believed to have beenused originally in Taoist rituals, it laterbecame one of the wide variety ofsubstances that made up the Chinesepharmacopoeia. Like so manydiscoveries during that distant period,alcohol reached the Arab world fromChina by way of Egypt. When, in 711AD, the Arabs landed on the southcoast of present-day Spain andinitiated an invasion that was to entailsix centuries of subjugation for muchof its Christian territory, they did soalong the stretch of coast near thetown of Jerez, which faces out towardsAfrica. They would have found thearea densely planted with vineyards,reflecting the existence of an alreadyestablished and thriving wine trade.

The wines produced there in the 8th

century would clearly have beenquite different from the sherries weknow today, but there is no doubtingtheir importance as a local product.The new colonists capitalized on theregion’s flourishing vineyards as asource of raisins and, in some cases,also drank the wine they produced,religious strictures notwithstanding.For the most part, however, theydistilled the local wines into alcohol,using processes that were alreadythoroughly familiar in the Arabworld. The Spanish words alquitara(pot still) and alambique (alembic)clearly bespeak their Arabic roots as,indeed, does the word “alcohol”itself. (One school of thoughtbelieves it to be derived from theArabic term al-khol, meaningpowdered antimony used as eyemakeup, still widely used today, andknown as “kohl”. The Arabs arebelieved to have used alcohol inperfumery, cosmetics and as anantiseptic, mixed with camphor).The conquerors gradually introduceddistillery equipment—their

alquitaras and alembiques—into thenew territory, laying the foundationsfor a thriving distillery industrythere, in parallel with othersassociated with crafts and tradessuch as cabinet-making, weaving,milling and dyeing. The Arabs wereto occupy that part of Spain for thenext 500 years, until 1264, when itwas reconquered by Alfonso X(“Alfonso the Wise”, 1221-1284) inthe name of Christendom andCastile. Thanks to a highlyinformative manuscript kept in Jerezde la Frontera’s Municipal Archives,we know that at the time of itsreconquest, the region containednumerous distilleries and wineries,including 21 wineries roofed in Arabtiles. In post-reconquest Jerez,winemaking and distilling went fromstrength to strength, opening up newmarkets in northern Europe,especially in the United Kingdom.French cognac had not yet appearedon the scene, and would not do sountil considerably later. The firstreference to this other great distilledwine classic occurs in 1630, by

BRANDY DE JEREZ

TEXTPAZ IVISON/©ICEX

PHOTOSAMADOR TORIL/©ICEX

TRANSLATIONHAWYS PRITCHARD/©ICEX


28 29

WINES

BRANDY DE JEREZ

quality brandy: (1 bocoy = 500liters, so the total order was foraround 250,000 liters). However, nosooner was distillation underwaythan the customer (unidentified inlegend) cancelled the order. PedroDomecq was left with a great deal ofsurplus stock on his hands, which heplaced for storage in the Americanoak casks used in the winery forageing wine. When tasted five yearslater, in 1847, the brandy was foundto have acquired outstanding finesseand quality. New market prospectsbeckoned, and the famous Fundadorbrand came into being.

Brandyby the bottleHaving discovered the qualitativebenefits of ageing holandas inAmerican oak casks previously usedfor sherry, the region’s producersadopted this maturation method. Bythe mid-19th century, severalwineries had been established inJerez by foreign owners, both

French (Pedro Domecq was oneexample) and British (such as R.C.Ivison). One member of the Ivisonfamily was Francisco Ivison O’Neale(1831-1890, a distinguishedchemist and grandson of FletcherIvison (179-1856), an Englishmanoriginally from Cumberland. “DonFrancisco”, who was a friend andcolleague of the great Louis Pasteur(1822-1895), was one of the firstwinemakers to set up in business inJerez, and was responsible forimportant scientific discoveriesrelating to the process of ageing thelocal wine, such as using sulfur toclean wooden casks.In 1880, Francisco Ivison sent hiscustomers in England examples ofbottled brandy produced in the(now defunct) R.C. Ivison winerylabeled “La Marque Spéciale”. Thechoice of a Frenchified name for hisfirst brand was no doubt intended totap into the prestige that by thenattached to French cognac.Significantly, Ivison had spentsome time in France’s cognac

producing region, Charentes,studying and conducting researchinto wine spirits.From that period of the 19th centuryon, Jerez’s wine spirits becameincreasingly well known, and thelocal wineries launched new brandsonto the market. All producersadopted the ageing system used forthe sherry wines for which theregion was famous. The combinationof the local climate and theidiosyncratic criadera and solera

system, using casks previously usedfor sherry, produced aguardientesand brandies (they had not yetacquired a distinguishing name oftheir own) with characteristics thatdifferentiated them from all the otherwine spirits in the world, withsalient notes of dried fruit and nuts,blonde tobacco, prunes and carob,providing elegant reminders of theirparent wines. By association of ideaswith France’s Charentes-basedspecialty, they became known ascognac. At that period, whichpredated designations of origin

which time Jerez had been trading inits particular aguardientes (distilledliquors) for many years, as we learnfrom Noches Jerezanas, a historicalcompendium by Jerez historianJoaquín Portillo (1802-1853). Itfeatures a fascinating account of thearrival in Jerez in 1580 ofrepresentatives of the Jesuit Order(also known as The Society of Jesus),which reveals that the constructionof the monastery and school theybuilt there was financed entirely byrevenue obtained from aguardientes.Although the book is a 19th-centurypublication, the reference is veryprecisely dated (January 16, 1580)and gives us every reason toassume that the aguardiente tradewas very big business indeed in late16th-century Jerez.

Aguardiente goesDutchBy the early 17th century, the biggestcustomer for Jerez’s distilled liquorswas Holland, which, on the strength

of the Dutch East India Company,had emerged as the most importantcommercial hub in the westernworld. Distilled liquor obtained fromJerez was distributed from Hollandto the many ports and countrieswithin the company’s sphere ofoperation. The consignmentsdispatched from Jerez were soenormous that their content cameto be known by the name of theirprimary destination, and holanda

became an official designation thatis still in use today.What exactly is holanda? TheRegulatory Council for SpecificDenomination Brandy de Jerezstipulates in its regulations thatholanda is a low alcohol (70% vol.at most) wine spirit obtained by thedistillation in copper pot stills ofhealthy, clean white wines. As ageneral rule, the alcoholic content ofthe holandas used as raw material forBrandy de Jerez does not exceed the65% vol. mark. They are rich involatile substances, which are whatgive each brandy its characteristic

aromas, and are commonly referredto as “impurities”, in this case apositive term, indicating primaryaromas and flavors retained from theoriginal grapes. In short, moreimpurities mean a more aromaticend product.The close trade links with Hollandalso gave rise to the word “brandy”,which derives from the Dutch wordbrandewijn (burnt wine), the Britishapproximation at which emerged as“brandy”. Though brandy is a broadterm, applied generically to differentkinds of brandy made in variouscountries, it always signifies a spiritdistilled from grape wine.For many centuries, holandas didnot spend a maturation period inwooden casks or barrels; thispractice was not introduced until thelatter half of the 19th century, when,as so often in Old World wine andspirit lore, its benefits werediscovered by accident. In 1869, thePedro Domecq Winery (founded in1823) received an order for a largeconsignment (500 bocoyes) of prime


30

BRANDY DE JEREZ

31

and regulations governing thenomenclature and provenance ofwines and other beverages, the termcognac was used prominently andwith impunity on posters and otheradvertising material relating to bothFrench and Jerez products. In Spain,the term soon mutated into theunmistakably Spanish coñac, thenew word eventually finding its wayinto the Dictionary of the Royal SpanishAcademy. In 1985, the RegulatoryCouncil of Specific DenominationBrandy de Jerez was constituted,and these superb wine spirits agedby the traditional Jerez methodadopted the official name of Brandyde Jerez. Brandy de Jerez therebyjoined cognac and armagnac to forma select group of the only winespirits in Europe possessingdesignation of origin status.

CategoriesThe Regulatory Council covers threetypes of Brandy de Jerez: Brandy deJerez Solera, aged in wood for at leastsix months; Brandy de Jerez SoleraReserva, aged in wood for at least oneyear; and Brandy de Jerez Solera GranReserva, aged for at least three yearsin American oak casks previouslyused for sherry wines. All three typesare required to be made by distillinghealthy wines obtained from grapes.The production and maturation areacoincides with the part of Cádizprovince contained between the threetowns of Jerez de la Frontera, ElPuerto de Santa María and Sanlúcarde Barrameda—the so-called “sherrytriangle” that is also the officiallystipulated production and maturationarea for sherry wines. The specified

ageing method is the classic criaderaand solera system, also known as thedynamic method and, in Spanish,corrimiento de escalas (running throughthe levels), traditional to the area.This unique, highly labor-intensivemethod endows both the wines andbrandies for which it is used withconsistent quality and with absolutelyexclusive characteristics. It consistsessentially of barrels of wine or spiritstacked in tiers, those in the uppertiers being known as criaderas(“nursing” barrels) and those on thebottom as soleras (ground levelbarrels). A small quantity of liquid issystematically extracted from eachbarrel in turn and added to the nextin sequence, from which a similarquantity will have been extracted andadded to the next one down. This isperformed throughout the sequence

of stacked barrels until the lastone is reached: it is from this solerabarrel that the definitive brandy isextracted for bottling. Its alcoholicstrength will first be reduced,by adding water, to a level no lowerthan 36% alcohol by volume, whichis the minimum permitted byRegulation (EC) No. 110/2008 of theEuropean Parliament and of theCouncil, governing spirit drinks.This dynamic system (whose originshistorians have as yet been unableto trace convincingly) does notfeature specific vintages, given thatthe youngest brandies are constantlybeing mixed with the oldest, creatingan essential amalgam to whose finalversion it is impossible to date.The regulations also permit the useof a “static”, vintage-specific, ageingmethod which, in the case of Brandy

de Jerez, is often used in conjunctionwith the system described above.Some producers prefer to keep theirbrandies static, in the same barrel (inthe Charentes style), at either thebeginning or the end of the ageingprocess. In other words, there are twomaturation systems in use.The Regulatory Council of Brandy deJerez covers 350 brands, made up ofbrandies of all three categories,produced by 34 wineries. In all cases,these brands apply to products thatare already bottled when dispatchedfrom Jerez: brandy sold in bulk doesnot qualify for the authenticatingBrandy de Jerez stamp.

Spirit of enterpriseBrandy de Jerez, like the wine whosename it shares, has always been

produced—and still is—with theexport market very much in view.Sales figures (expressed in number ofbottles) for 2009, provided by theRegulatory Council are around28,639,306 for the domestic market,and 23,808,000 for the exportmarket, composed of over 60countries worldwide. In terms ofproduction and export, it is Spain’sleading spirit drink by a considerablemargin. Bearing in mind that it takessix liters of wine to produce one ofholanda, the 52.5 million bottlessold in total in 2009 represents over230 million liters of wine.Another aspect of this impressivecommercial performance is abeneficial effect on the nationallandscape directly attributable toBrandy de Jerez, which requires vastareas of vineyards to sustain


19

general sense of sun-warmed flavor.Antonio Córdoba, who recentlyfounded a fine food export companycalled Organic Spanish Market,emphasizes the importance oftrustworthiness and professionalism.Foreign customers truly believe,according to Córdoba, that Spanishorganics are what they say they are,which cannot always be said of otherproducing countries; the efficiency ofSpanish supply networks is alsohighly valued.

Spanish organics:national prophets?It’s one of the ironies of the organicscene in Spain that, despite being ahugely important exporter of organicfoods in their raw state, the countryhas few organic manufacturers; theresult is that, of all the processedorganic foods consumed in Spain,more than half is imported from thesame countries that are suchenthusiastic importers of organicSpanish fresh produce: Germany,Holland, France, Italy, and the UK.

And this irony conceals a mystery:why is Spain such a poor consumerof its own organic produce? Foryears it seemed the Spanish wouldnever catch on to the organicmovement. While Germany andFrance saw the arrival of specialistsupermarkets where everything wasorganic, from baby clothes to coffeeand meat, and even the big chainshad a separate section for organicfruit and vegetables, in Spain theconcept still seemed remote from themajority of consumers. Even todaythe presence of organic products inthe Spanish high street is practicallynegligible, while awareness of theword ecológico and its significance isby no means universal. Organicproducts represent a tiny fraction,around 2%, of the country’s totalfood consumption, and annualexpenditure on eco products comesin at just 7.70 euros per person peryear, compared with the Europeanaverage of 30 euros.Several explanations are commonlyoffered for this state of affairs. First,Spanish consumers value freshnessabove all other considerations and

would rather buy an apple grown inthe next village by conventionalmethods than an organic one flownin from New Zealand. Second, theideological concerns of consumershere are not sufficient to compensatethem for the higher price of organicas opposed to “conventional”products. Third, the Spanish organicsector has no great interest indeveloping the local market since itcan make a much bigger profit byselling abroad, where, moreover, itsproducts are highly sought-after.Whatever the reason, it would seemlike a good idea to close the yawninggap between minimal domesticconsumption and maximum exports,as Spain runs the risk that otherproducer nations may step in to takeadvantage of an under-supplied localmarket. Organic food companiesnow occupy their own patch at anySpanish international food fair ofnote. Barcelona’s Alimentaria,Madrid’s Fruit Attraction andZaragoza’s Qualimen all havededicated organic sections.BioCórdoba, in October, is a well-established event covering organic

COLORS

18

the pepper plants with the sachetshanging from their stems. Organicfarmers around here use biologicalcontrol to eliminate pests (i.e. bugsthat eat other bugs) and plantextracts as fertilizers. The phosphateused derives from seaweed, thepotassium sulfate from a naturallyoccurring mineral. The seeds usedare organic. Rainwater is collectedfrom the plastic rooftop andchanneled into an artificial lake,then administered by a drip system.Ideologically the farm ticks all theboxes: what is extraordinary is itsenormous scale. Farmers aroundthese parts can have as many as 16ha (39 acres) under intensive organiccultivation. The organic portion ofthe Hortamira plantations accountsfor a total of 59 ha (145 acres),including as many as 40 ha (98acres) of organic peppers. Next doorto the greenhouse lies a citrus farm.My guide waves a hand in thedirection of the trees, which areorganically cultivated, but lookidentical to the conventional sort.“Those are lemons,” he says. “Roundhere we don’t give a thought to the

lemon. We don’t appreciate it, wejust take it for granted. Not like inGermany. Over there, they fight overa nice lemon, and even more so if it’sorganic.” This casual remark says agreat deal about the nature of theorganic sector in Spain, which hasturned its back on the local marketto concentrate on territories wherethe desire to eat and live organicallysprings from a committed lifestylechoice. Around 80% of Spanishorganic produce is exported, mainlyto Germany, the UK, France,Italy and Holland (in order ofimportance), according to theSociedad Española de AgriculturaEcológica (Spanish Society ofOrganic Agriculture, SEAE),a non-profit organization whoseremit is mainly promotion anddevelopment of organic agriculture.The great majority of these productsare fresh, non-processed foods,namely fruit, vegetables and nutswhich cannot be grown in northernclimates, organically or otherwise.As a traditionally agriculturaleconomy, as opposed to “industrial”nations like France or Germany,

Spain is still known abroadprincipally for its production offresh fruit and vegetables. As in theconventional sector, Spanishproducts are associated withripeness, flavor, vibrant color,and—especially in “southern European”vegetables like tomatoes, peppers,eggplant, as well as pitted fruit,melons, oranges and so on—with aquality impossible to reproduce inmore northerly latitudes. Thisexplains the high esteem in whichSpanish organic produce is held in amarket like Germany—by some waythe most sophisticated in Europe.Here, awareness of the organicconcept reaches 98% of thepopulation, and Germany is the EU’smajor importer of organic produce,some way ahead of both the UK andFrance. Dr. Klaus-Jürgen Holstein,editor of the German magazine EinHerz für Bio, suggests that Germanconsumers actively seek out Spanishorganics, and this tendency isespecially clear at the younger endof the market.But the appeal of Spanish organicproducts abroad goes further than a

ORGANIC AGRICULTURE


30

BRANDY DE JEREZ

31

and regulations governing thenomenclature and provenance ofwines and other beverages, the termcognac was used prominently andwith impunity on posters and otheradvertising material relating to bothFrench and Jerez products. In Spain,the term soon mutated into theunmistakably Spanish coñac, thenew word eventually finding its wayinto the Dictionary of the Royal SpanishAcademy. In 1985, the RegulatoryCouncil of Specific DenominationBrandy de Jerez was constituted,and these superb wine spirits agedby the traditional Jerez methodadopted the official name of Brandyde Jerez. Brandy de Jerez therebyjoined cognac and armagnac to forma select group of the only winespirits in Europe possessingdesignation of origin status.

CategoriesThe Regulatory Council covers threetypes of Brandy de Jerez: Brandy deJerez Solera, aged in wood for at leastsix months; Brandy de Jerez SoleraReserva, aged in wood for at least oneyear; and Brandy de Jerez Solera GranReserva, aged for at least three yearsin American oak casks previouslyused for sherry wines. All three typesare required to be made by distillinghealthy wines obtained from grapes.The production and maturation areacoincides with the part of Cádizprovince contained between the threetowns of Jerez de la Frontera, ElPuerto de Santa María and Sanlúcarde Barrameda—the so-called “sherrytriangle” that is also the officiallystipulated production and maturationarea for sherry wines. The specified

ageing method is the classic criaderaand solera system, also known as thedynamic method and, in Spanish,corrimiento de escalas (running throughthe levels), traditional to the area.This unique, highly labor-intensivemethod endows both the wines andbrandies for which it is used withconsistent quality and with absolutelyexclusive characteristics. It consistsessentially of barrels of wine or spiritstacked in tiers, those in the uppertiers being known as criaderas(“nursing” barrels) and those on thebottom as soleras (ground levelbarrels). A small quantity of liquid issystematically extracted from eachbarrel in turn and added to the nextin sequence, from which a similarquantity will have been extracted andadded to the next one down. This isperformed throughout the sequence

of stacked barrels until the lastone is reached: it is from this solerabarrel that the definitive brandy isextracted for bottling. Its alcoholicstrength will first be reduced,by adding water, to a level no lowerthan 36% alcohol by volume, whichis the minimum permitted byRegulation (EC) No. 110/2008 of theEuropean Parliament and of theCouncil, governing spirit drinks.This dynamic system (whose originshistorians have as yet been unableto trace convincingly) does notfeature specific vintages, given thatthe youngest brandies are constantlybeing mixed with the oldest, creatingan essential amalgam to whose finalversion it is impossible to date.The regulations also permit the useof a “static”, vintage-specific, ageingmethod which, in the case of Brandy

de Jerez, is often used in conjunctionwith the system described above.Some producers prefer to keep theirbrandies static, in the same barrel (inthe Charentes style), at either thebeginning or the end of the ageingprocess. In other words, there are twomaturation systems in use.The Regulatory Council of Brandy deJerez covers 350 brands, made up ofbrandies of all three categories,produced by 34 wineries. In all cases,these brands apply to products thatare already bottled when dispatchedfrom Jerez: brandy sold in bulk doesnot qualify for the authenticatingBrandy de Jerez stamp.

Spirit of enterpriseBrandy de Jerez, like the wine whosename it shares, has always been

produced—and still is—with theexport market very much in view.Sales figures (expressed in number ofbottles) for 2009, provided by theRegulatory Council are around28,639,306 for the domestic market,and 23,808,000 for the exportmarket, composed of over 60countries worldwide. In terms ofproduction and export, it is Spain’sleading spirit drink by a considerablemargin. Bearing in mind that it takessix liters of wine to produce one ofholanda, the 52.5 million bottlessold in total in 2009 represents over230 million liters of wine.Another aspect of this impressivecommercial performance is abeneficial effect on the nationallandscape directly attributable toBrandy de Jerez, which requires vastareas of vineyards to sustain


16 17




COLORS

ORGANIC AGRICULTURE




Websites




32 33

WINES

BRANDY DE JEREZ

production, so that much of thelandscape is kept verdant, evenduring the long, hot, consistentlydry summer months, which is whenthe vines are at their peak, justbefore harvest time.Brandy de Jerez is distributed allover the world. Whereas up until the19th century, Europe, particularlyHolland, constituted the primarymarket, today’s biggest customer isthe Philippines, where Brandy deJerez sales have soared spectacularly.Williams & Humbert is the leadingsupplier in that particular market,accounting for over 40% of Brandyde Jerez sales. It also leads the fieldat top-of-the-range (Solera GranReserva) level with its new AlfonsoXO brand, backed up by itsprestigious Gran Duque de Alba inthe same category. This latter brand,originally created in 1942 by a smallwinery called Antonio R. Ruiz (nolonger in existence, having beentaken over by Williams & Humbertin 1993) has recently brought outtwo new premium brandies whichare, paradoxically, older than their

parent product: the 18-year-old GranDuque de Alba XO, and the 25-year-old Gran Duque de Alba Oro,both of which are already distributedin the Philippines. With a presencein five Chinese provinces, NewZealand and Australia, Williams& Humbert is consolidating itsAustralasian markets.Beam Global Spirits & Wine Inc.,present owner of the legendaryFundador, is a close second, at leastas far as the Philippines areconcerned. This US companyacquired major brands and wineriesof the caliber of Harvey’s, Terry(Centenario) and Fundador Domecqsome years back.

Europe andAmericaAnother pacesetter in the exportfield, especially within Europe, ispremium brand Cardenal Mendoza,a force to be reckoned with since aslong ago as 1871. It is a favorite inGermany, which has been itsprincipal foreign market for many

years, though it also does extremelywell in Italy, the US and Mexico. It ismade by Sánchez Romate, one of theoldest wineries in Jerez, dating backto 1781 and still run by the samefamily. It specializes particularly intop-of-the-range brandies and hasrecently brought out two new linesunder its Cardenal Mendoza label,again examples of offspringoutstripping parent: CardenalMendoza Carta Real, 25 years oldand considered a star product, andCardenal Mendoza Non Plus Ultra,around 50 years old and luxuriouslypresented in a craftsman-blownglass decanter. Extracted from a setof 38 barrels from which only 800half-liter bottles are taken per year,the latter—a Brandy de Jerez SoleraGran Reserva—sells at around 400euros, making it one of the mostexpensive on the market, secondonly to Bodegas Garvey’s Condede Garvey.The Latin American market,particularly Mexico, is anothermajor destination for Brandy deJerez, the mid-range Solera Reserva

Jerez,Brandy capital

Jerez, situated just a few kilometersfrom the Atlantic Ocean, has moreinhabitants than Cádiz, the provincialcapital, and its many stately homesand elegant townhouses bear witnessto a glorious and prosperous past(it has the claim to fame of beingthe second town in Spain, beforeMadrid and Barcelona, to installpublic street lighting).

Fount of sherry, brandy and Spain’smost prestigious breeds of horse(including the unique whiteCarthusian), this city has an amazinglybeautiful historic quarter. Remindersof the various civilizations (the ancientand mysterious Tartessians amongthem) that have occupied the site inthe course of its long history areprovided by relics from the Romanand earlier periods (the oldest remainsin Spain). Its splendid Arab heritage(the Alcázar, baths, gardens…);medieval town walls; huge,flamboyantly Gothic churches;Renaissance palaces; and Baroquebuildings all coexist harmoniously,providing an enviable backdrop for aheterogeneous, and famously life- andfiesta-loving populace.

Among other attractive features is thetown’s Jardín Botánico y ParqueZoológico (Botanic Gardens and Zoo,www.zoobotanicojerez.com), one ofthe most interesting of its kind in

Spain and noteworthy both for itsgreat age and for its zoologicalcollection. The gardens, establishedin 1869, extend over 50 ha (123acres) and display 400 different plantand 200 animal species. The zoo’sstar exhibit is a white tiger, the onlyone in Spain (though it has beenbred in the zoo).

The Real Escuela Andaluza del ArteEcuestre (Royal Andalusian School ofEquestrian Art, www.realescuela.org)is in a category all its own. It occupiesa large palace surrounded bygardens, designed in the 19th centuryby French architect Charles Garnier,who also designed the Paris Opera,and incorporates an importantCarriage Museum. The School alsoserves as the headquarters for oneof Spain’s most captivating horseshows, entitled Así bailan loscaballos andaluces (How AndalusianHorses Dance).

Jerez’s busy festive calendar includesVinoble (www.vinoble.org), a trade fairfor specialty, fortified and noble wines,which is held every two years, and itsfamous annual fair dedicated tohorses and horsemanship, which isheld purely for fun. This is, of course,a favorite area for wine tourism, andalways has been: the González Byasswinery is the second most visited inthe world, and is renowned as the

source of such classics as Lepantobrandy and Tío Pepe fino sherry.The winery complex includes apavilion known as Bodega LaConcha), reputed to have beendesigned by Eiffel (of Parisian towerfame). Another excellent resourcefor wine buffs is the association forthe Rutas del Vino y Brandy delMarco de Jerez (Sherry Wine andBrandy de Jerez Routes), which takein nine districts, over 30 wineries,hotels and restaurants, and aninformative museum: El Misterio deJerez (The Mystery of Jerez Sherry).A highly informative website inSpanish and English providesinformation about the routes(www.rutadeljerezybrandy.es).


32 33

WINES

BRANDY DE JEREZ














34 35

BRANDY DE JEREZ

type being the category that doesbest there. One representative ofthis category is Bodegas Osborne’sMagno, a long-established brandwhich, three years ago, acquired anolder sibling in the form of Alma deMagno, a Solera Gran Reservabrandy which has been particularlywell-received in Mexico, whichhas always had a soft spot for Brandyde Jerez. Legendary brand Centenario,with its readily recognizable yellowmesh and Andalusian white horsetrademark (originally a BodegasTerry product, now owned by USmultinational Beam Global)is also notable for achieving animpressive comeback.Quite apart from these big names,various wineries in Jerez, some ofthem small-scale and recently

established (albeit in possession ofstocks of old wine), are showingsigns of interest in brandy. Oneexample is Rey Fernando de Castilla,whose Fernando de Castilla Únicoand Edición Especial labels arefinding themselves a comfortableniche in the upper echelons ofthe market, particularly inScandinavia (specifically Norway,Sweden and Denmark).Meanwhile, back in Sanlúcar deBarrameda, big-name wineryBarbadillo is also backing Brandy deJerez, cleverly giving its newly-launched Solera BB brand a very21st-century look and feel. Designedspecifically for drinking with cola-type mixers (it works beautifully!),it is clearly aimed at a youngerpublic. One way and another, new

consumer patterns are emerging,promising a suitably exciting futurefor this venerable Spanish classic.

Jerez-born journalist and authorPaz Ivison specializes in food and wine.Winner of Spain's Premio Nacional deGastronomía, she has published severalbooks, including El Vino: Uso yProtocolo (Temas de Hoy). She is aregular contributor to publications suchas Joyce, Vogue, GQ Españaand GQ México, El Economistaand El Mundo.

Cooking withBrandy de Jerez

Brandy de Jerez has a lot to offer onthe cooking front, and there are manyrecipes, both traditional and modern,that capitalize on its particularqualities. Urta (red-banded seabream) is a local fish that is cooked invarious ways, including the classicUrta al brandy. Local chefs have longsince adopted the technique ofinjecting Brandy de Jerez into poultryand other meat before roasting,achieving flavor-packed, juicy results.In the region’s restaurant cuisine,Brandy de Jerez is the spirit of choicefor flambé dishes and for dessertsfeaturing chocolate (a match made inheaven). These and other dishes

incorporating Brandy de Jerez areon the menus of the recommendedrestaurants incorporated into theexcellent local wine tourism routes(Jerez, Brandy Capital, page 32).The following examples give someidea of what to expect:

La Mesa Redonda

Manuel de la Quintana 3Tel.: (+34) 956 340 069www.restaurantemesaredonda.comJerez de la Frontera

Fillets of local bream stuffed with wildmushrooms and steamed with Brandyde Jerez (Lomos de sargo rellenos derebozuelos al vapor de Brandy deJerez); Partridge stuffed with Brandy

de Jerez-infused foie gras(Perdiz rellena de foie gras alBrandy de Jerez)

El Faro del Puerto

Avda de Fuentebravia s/n.Tel.: (+34) 956 870 952www.elfarodelpuerto.comEl Puerto de Santa María

Lobster tails served on a bed ofparsley-root purée flavored withBrandy de Jerez (Colas de langostasobre puré de raíz de perejil alBrandy de Jerez); Brandy de Jerezflavored chocolate soup servedwith mango and red fruit sorbet (Sopade chocolate al Brandy de Jerezcon sorbete de mango y frutos rojos)


SEPTEMBER–DECEMBER 2010 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 3736 SEPTEMBER–DECEMBER 2010 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

VOLCANICSURVIVORS

The Canary Islands are one of the world’s richest treasure troves for vines,with varieties unlike those found anywhere else growing naturally on their ownungrafted roots. In the past, Canary wine was famous enough to have beenmentioned by William Shakespeare (1564-1616); today at least 33 grapevarieties, most of them native, regale the nose and palate. All seven majorislands in the archipelago make wine, but thanks to groundbreaking work bypioneering oenologists and viticulturists, some truly stand out.

05 AF_EL VINO ISLAS II_1.qxd 5/8/10 09:12 Página 36

(holes) and protecting them withabrigos (overcoats). “The prevailingwinds (vientos alisios) come fromthe northeast,” said JavierBetancourt of the DO LanzaroteRegulatory Council.Bodega Los Bermejos, DOLanzarote, was founded in 2001and makes five styles, i.e. “20% ofthe island’s production,” saidmanager Ana de León. Their 20 ha(49 acres) of organically cultivatedvines are supplemented with 250 ha(618 acres) owned by 200 smallgrowers. “The Diego (white) varietyis generating interest,” she said.Camels imported centuries ago helpcarry harvested grapes from thevineyards to the winery, said DeLeón, conjuring one of Europeanwinemaking’s most evocativeimages. Bodega La Geria isstrategically situated in La Gerianature reserve and receives 300,000visitors annually, each being offeredwine to taste. Winemaker AlejandroBesay makes refreshing Manto

2009, “Malvasía Volcánica”, whichoffers herbal hints and a cleanfinish. He also makes rosé (rosado)from Listán Negro.Bodega El Grifo, DO Lanzarote, isone of the ten oldest wineries inSpain. Within its vineyards you findMuscatel vines so old they couldhave been planted just after the lasteruption. Winemaker Tomás MesaGuanche began working here in2007, when he joined 15 full-timestaff, a number that rises to 38during harvest. “We are able tocultivate and maintain our old,historic varieties without relying onplantations from elsewhere,” saidMesa. El Grifo makes three solera-style Canary wines from 100%Malvasía: 1997, 1956 and twobarricas (barrels) dating from 1881.The older two can occasionally besampled at trade fairs. The ‘97 wasdark orange and had a solera’soxidative style, mingling traces ofwood with huge orange marmaladearomas surrounded by hints of

honey. Its lingering finish wasreminiscent of bright summer fruit.Solera 1881 was almostmahogany dark with aromas offigs and vibrant orange peel. Itshuge palate was amazingly full oflife, with a luxurious mystery thatonly age confers.Bodegas Stratvs, DO Lanzarote, isone of the flagship wineries of theCanary Islands. Winemaker AlbertoGonzález Plasencia (born on nearbyLa Gomera) vinifies 350,000 liters,“of which 20% is our production.”Infinite care is taken, withmanually-selected grapes kept ina chilled chamber overnight beforegentle pre-fermentative crushing.White grapes are Malvasía andDiego, while reds include TintaConejera and Listán Negro, withMuscatel reserved for sweet Canary.Nitrogen excludes oxygen and thelatest 14,000-liter Ganymedestainless steel tanks, with CO2

bypass valves to break the musts’caps, are used for fermentation.

38 39

WINE

WINES

CANARY ISLANDS

The grapevines of Spain’s CanaryIslands are rare, precious survivorsfrom an ecological disaster thatforever changed the nature ofglobal winemaking. Adding to thedrama, all around the beautifulislands you see evidence of aviolent, volcanic past. This storybegins 20 million years ago when amassive telluric collision betweenthe Africa and Eurasia continentalplates caused a tear in the earth’smantle. The tectonic pile-up causedexplosions of lava to erupt throughthe Atlantic Ocean and billionsof tons of magma to cool, formingislands like scar tissue on theEarth’s surface.But the history that makes theseislands so special for wine is morerecent. Clinging onto ash blacksoils, atop hillsides windswept bytrade winds on these rocky volcanicspecks in the vastness of theAtlantic Ocean, you find vinesthat maintain a living link withan ancient viticulture that

Alexander the Great (356-323 BC)would have recognized.No one could have predicted thatSpain’s discovery of America wouldunleash devastation on the historicvineyards of the Old World. Yet, thearrival of a louse, an unwantedAmerican import if ever there wasone, did exactly that. It causedirreparable damage to Europe’s(at that time most of the world’s)wine industry. The accidentalintroduction in 1860 of a NorthAmerican bug wrecked for all time aviticulture that had taken thousandsof years to perfect.From the moment Phylloxera(a tiny aphid) arrived in Europe, itbegan voraciously infesting vinesthis side of the Atlantic with anincurable root-withering disease.“The Phylloxera louse induces thevine to reject its own roots and,hence, effectively commit suicide,”explained wine expert HughJohnson. To overcome this blight,growers have had to graft vines onto

Phylloxera-resistant non-Vitisvinifera American roots, inevitablyaltering aromas and flavors,except here in the Canary Islands,which have remained miraculouslyfree of infection.

Lanzarote,vines set in blackobsidianIn 1730, Lanzarote was againconvulsed by eruptions that spewedcontinuously for six years. A quarterof the island was coated in ash andlava. Drought and another eruptionin 1824 made life hard. To survive,farmers dug through ash to findremnants of topsoil and lovinglyplanted vines capable of findingwater and converting it intotreasured grapes. To avoid silting upthe resulting cones, little stonewindbreaks were built on each vine’swindward (northeastern) side. Thepractice is known as digging hoyos

TEXTHAROLD HECKLE/©ICEX

PHOTOSEFRAÍN PINTOS/©ICEX


40

La Gomera:a feisty promisingcomebackAt the heart of La Gomera are theancient woodlands of GarajonayNational Park, intact survivors fromthe Tertiary Period (65 million-1.8million years ago). Skirting it, invalleys and slopes on all sides of thisround island, are steeply terracedvineyards, many now in disuse, atestament to the hardy determinationof resident Gomeros. Enthusiasticwinemakers under theencouragement of DO La Gomerapresident Armenia Mendoza andtalented technician Nancy Melo areinjecting new life into production.Bodegas Insulares in Vallehermosodemonstrated, with its barrique-fermented Cumbres de Garajonay2007, the quality of theautochthonous white ForasteraBlanca variety. Fresh fruit, mingledwith coconut hints and sweet lemon

aromas, showed evidence of well-integrated wood. On the palate itwas very dry. Winemaker Ricardo“Richard” Gutiérrez de Salamancaoversees 140,000 liters annuallyfrom 210 members, of which“around 40” use the cooperativefacilities regularly. Carmen Fino,who looks after the commercial side,lamented the steady loss of historicterraced slopes. Some ascend forhundreds of feet. “I hope it is only acyclical trend and that the need forsustainable agriculture may see themresurrected,” she said.At Arure, on the western side, MaríaMilagros Santos Negrín has turnedthree old caves, once used by herancestors to store agriculturalproduce and tools, into the modernBodega Las Cuevas Santos Negrín.Her Viña Cheo 2009 blends 80%Listán Negro with recently-plantedNegramoll and Syrah, and offeredcomplex aromas of Morello cherriesand ripe plums. On the palate it waslight, needing firmer tannins, but

very pleasant. Another producer,Ramón Marichal Felipe, makes LosRoquillos 2009, with 70% ListánNegro and equal measures ofTintilla, Rubí and Castellana (aCanary grape, despite its name)which exuded dark berries cocoonedin oak-influenced leathery nuances.Montoro 2009, by C.B. Montoro, isan ambitious blend of ForasteraBlanca, Listán Blanco, Muscatel,Pedro Ximénez and Malvasía that,though low on aroma, had greatstructure. Aceviñón 2008, byAntonio Arteaga Santos, combinedListán Negro (50%) with Syrah,Tempranillo and Merlot. True Merloton the nose, it also had attractivehints of Listán.

Tenerife,the driving forceEvery revolution has its definingmoment. For the Canary Islands thiscame when a gifted chemist turnedhis attention to winemaking. Juan

41

WINES

CANARY ISLANDS

His Tinto Roble 2008 spent sixmonths in oak (US and French) andwas 60% Listán Negro and 40%Tinta Conejera. Its clean fruit wasreminiscent of New World wineswhile retaining some uniquerefinement derived from theminerals in its black obsidianash-rich soils. Crianza 2007 was60% Tinta Conejera and 40%Listán Negro. Greater vineyard agewill improve these wines.

La Palma,la isla bonitaEliseo Carballo is a fifth generationwinemaker on La Palma, the mostverdant of the islands. Its beauty andtranquility are celebrated inMadonna’s song, “La Isla Bonita,”referring to its nickname amongislanders.“My ancestors includeoriginal Benahoaritas natives whointermarried with invading Spaniardsin the 15th century,” said Carballo. Adevastating fire, followed by

landslide-provoking floods, lashedthe island in August 2009, andBodegas Carballo, DO La Palma, lostthe few Engaja vines it had beenpropagating. “In Madeira the varietyis known as Sercial,” he said. Onebottle of 2006 survived. Harvestedwith a total acidity of 6.6 in sulfuric(10.1 in tartaric) and vinified aftergentle crushing, it—the originalwine—fermented totally to leave 2 g(0.07 oz) residual sugar per liter. “Thevariety was often used to naturallycorrect acidity without having to relyon tartaric acid,” said Carballo. Assoon as it decanted naturally, with nofiltration, it was placed in 50 cLbottles. Gorgeous light amber incolor, it had clean, honeyed aromas offleshy peaches. In mouth it was drywith explosive, glycerin-laden fruitvaguely reminiscent of a solera style.“It’s precisely an aperitif wine,” saidCarballo, accompanying it withalmendrado biscuits made fromground almonds, egg yolks, lemonrind and sugar.

Carballo’s star wine is a traditionalMalvasía, of the type Shakespearewould have recognized. “Onlytourists in the know buy it,” he said,while showing me photographs ofbills of lading dating from the 16th

century, when 6,000 liters of LaPalma wine were loaded onto shipsbound for America. A fount ofhistory, Carballo explained that SantaCruz de La Palma was, at its peak,the Spanish empire’s third mostimportant port, after Antwerp (nowin Belgium) and Seville (southernSpain). A prestigious imperial courtof law, Juzgado de Indias, was basedhere, creating a need for top-qualitywines to satisfy demanding judgesand lawyers. Carballo said that bythe 19th century, La Palmahosted refined cultural events andhad electric lighting; telephones;a cinematograph; two theaters; andBajada de la Virgen de las Nieves, thearchipelago’s most imposing festival.


42

CANARY ISLANDS

Jesús Méndez Siverio had beenlecturing at La Laguna University foraround a decade when his fatherconfided that age had gotten thebetter of him. Ever since hecould remember, Méndez had helpedhis dad, a small-scale farmer andshoemaker, harvest ancestralvineyards and make wine fordomestic consumption. The prospectof giving up horrified Méndez,so he took on the family tradition,applying scientific insight toimprove techniques, allowing himto run a small winery and alsocontinue his academic career. Theresults are worthy of the widestinternational recognition.At La Guancha, on the north coast, hebuilt Viñátigo, DO Ycoden DauteIsora, a technologically-advancedwinery named after a Tertiary Periodtree species (Laurus indica) common tothe area. Méndez uses satellite links totrack vineyard developments to thefinest detail, including how thirsty theplants are for water. Each wine can betraced back to its vines. At every stagebefore bottling he analyzes grapes,

must, and then wine by using(Danish) WineScan technology thatallows 17 measurements at once. “Inthree minutes it does what used totake a laboratory technician all day,”he said. He uses gravity or, at worst,peristaltic pumps. These devices,originally developed to carefullypump red blood cells through dialysismachines, are expensive but verygentle. You can detect the loving caretaken wherever you look in Viñátigo,and it comes as no surprise to findthat true love blossomed betweenMéndez and his oenologist, ElenaBatista. After 14 years making winetogether, they married in April 2010.Even greater meticulousness isobservable in the vineyards, whereyear after year Méndez haspainstakingly compared vineperformance to terroir characteristicsand obtained astonishing results.Thanks to the inherent quality ofCanary vines, Viñátigo’s white winestoday are setting standards matchedonly by wineries in northwest Spain.An example is Gual. “The 2009Gual is tough, undrinkable; all its

complexity and roundness, themature grapefruit, only comes withage,” said Batista. Gual 2008 (tanksample) exuded brambles, applepeel, greengage and gooseberry andhad an unctuous, firm structure inmouth. “It still needs bottle finesse,”said Méndez. With two years inbottle, Gual 2007 was delightfullyrounded, brimming with brightfruit and summer floral hints. Itimmediately gave the impressionof having spent time in wood. “JuanCacho (research chemist) usedchromatography and discovered itcontained whisky lactone, acompound found in products thathave had contact with wood,”said Méndez. But it never touchedwood, said Batista.

Ancient PortugueseinfluenceThe first serious growers on theislands were Portuguese, and foryears their varieties and cultivationtechniques prevailed. “My dad usedthem,” said Méndez, adding thatGual has a curious oxidationprocess, slow and very noble,unlike most whites. Another suchgrape, Verdello, is not related tomainland Verdejo. It is found onlyin the Azores, Canary Islands andMadeira, said Méndez. The 2009(tank sample) had the complexityof Gual but even greater aromaticmagic. But the star white wasMarmajuelo. This variety isoriginally from El Hierro, “the realrepository of pre-Phylloxeravarieties of Spain,” said Méndez.The 2008 exhibited a big, attractivenose with subtle hints of pear,pineapple, passion fruit and melon.“It’s our most tropical grape,” hesaid. Méndez noted that whatsurprised him most in over a


44 45

CANARY ISLANDS

WINES

leading to velvety tannins and atightly structured finish. Some saythis wine is Méndez’s masterpiece,but he insisted greatness comeswhen a blended wine succeedsglobally. Tacande 2006 is Viñátigo’sfirst coupage: 60% Baboso(aromatic beauty, base), the rest inequal proportions is Tintilla(structure), Vijariego (acidity)and Negramoll (silkiness), allcultivated and vinified separately,then blended.

Improvementsare vineyard basedThe full potential of reds in theCanaries is yet to be explored, saidRodrigo Mesa and Jorge Zerolo,partners in Arca de Vitis, DO Vallede Güímar, a company that hasinvested heavily in local grapevarieties and is making excellentwines. “The hard work has to bedone in the vineyards,” said LolesPérez Martín, who worked inBordeaux and then with PeterSisseck at Dominio de Pingus in DORibera del Duero before becomingwinemaker at Bodegas Buten in ElSauzal. Her Cráter 2006 was asupple and deliciously balanced65% Listán Negro, 35% Negramoll.The bigger, more complex Magma2006 (soon to be 2008) is a 50-50Syrah-Negramoll blend harvestedfrom venerable vineyards that nowobserve biodynamic practiceslearned while working with Sisseck.Bodegas Monje, DO Tacoronte-Acentejo, at La Hollera in El Sauzalwas built around a farmhousehanded down at least fivegenerations, said Felipe Monje.

decade of research into recuperatinglocal varieties was how wellstructural complexity, attractivearomatic compounds and aciditycoalesce despite relatively highdaytime temperatures. “There isn’tanother region of Spain where allthese characteristics come togetherso successfully,” he said.Success hasn’t been restricted towhites. Negramoll is a grape foundunder different guises from theBosporus to the Canaries. Romanianwine expert Dan Muntean said it isrelated to Negru Moele, found3,000 mi (482 km) away at theeastern end of the Mediterranean.Viñátigo’s 2009 tank sample wassoft and round, with well-polymerized tannins. Aromaticallyit was Gamay-like, with appealingripe plum fruitiness. Méndezsaid it is a difficult grape which caneasily spoil in the vineyard unlesssubjected to careful pruning,which he is still perfecting. Forsteep vineyard work, Méndezhas designed a robot tractor hebuilt in Switzerland. “It’s verysmall, operated remotely with ajoystick,” he said.Tintilla is a grape that developsexcellent color and tannins. “ItsDNA hasn’t been found elsewhere,”said Méndez, adding that itsphenolic maturation is very tardy,so it must be harvested late to avoidherbaceous qualities emerging inthe wine. The 2007 was aged inAllier oak and exuded darkchocolate and red berries in a deep,aromatically polished manner. Abottle sample of Baboso 2008 had ahuge, perfumed nose redolent ofviolets, flowers and juicy fruit


47

WINES

Today it houses a modern wineryproducing an extensive array ofstyles as well as a wine appreciationspace (designed by architect IsabelMonje), which also serves as amusical and artistic venue.Tajinaste, in northern DO Valle deLa Orotava, farms 6 ha (15 acres) ofimmaculately tended 15-year-oldListán Negro, Albillo, Marmajueloand Verijadiego Negro, with theirown remotely monitored weatherstation in the vineyard. From120,000 kg (own and rented vines),Agustín García (father and son)look for mineral nuances to shinethrough the purity of clean fruit.Their Listán Blanco 2009succeeded, also showing the yeastyeffects of battonage from the 30% ofthe blend that went into new oak.Currently they are propagatingcuttings from their own vines, usingmassal selection, in a bid to increasegrape production.

Canary:Shakespeare’stippleChristopher Columbus stopped atthe Canaries on September 6, 1492before setting sail on his fateful,first voyage of discovery.Subsequent travelers who colonizedAmerica rapidly realized thepotential of winemaking part wayto the New World. Thus, theCanaries became a vital port of callbefore tackling arduous oceancrossings where wine remaineddrinkable far longer than water,which has a tendency to turn greenand go off in hot conditions.English traders became particularlyfond of “Canary,” imposing strictguidelines about how to cultivate,harvest and make their preferredproduct. Its fame grew to the point

that Shakespeare referred to itseveral times in his plays.“I will to my honest knightFalstaff, and drink canary withhim.” Act 3, Scene II, The MerryWives of Windsor.Its beneficial effects were also felton the other side of the Atlantic.“There is evidence that after signingthe Declaration of Independence,Thomas Jefferson (third presidentof United States, 1743-1826)suggested a toast with a wine thatappears to have been Canary,” saidgastronomy expert Manuel Iglesias.No doubt fortified by it, Spanishsoldiers inflicted a rare defeat onEngland’s foremost Admiral,Horatio Nelson (1758-1805), wholost his right arm in a failed battleto capture Tenerife. Today mostCanary wineries offer a version ofwhat Elizabethan (16th century)merchants referred to as Canary,or Canary Sack. Sack may be areference to saca, the final stagewhere wine is removed from asolera for bottling. Viña Norte’sHumboldt Malvasía Clásico 2005was a vibrant white redolent of wildhoney, maple syrup and summer

flowers. This impressive co-op(Tenerife’s Bodegas Insulares, DOTacoronte-Acentejo) has a greatrange. Humboldt Vendimia Tardíawas a mouth-filling sweet ListánBlanco, while the port-likeHumboldt red is made from ListánNegro that spent 18 months inAmerican oak.

El Hierro:the treasure chestHierro means iron, the elementwhose oxides provide a red stain towhat is the most recent volcanicisland (1.2 million years old). Itsnew topsoil, full of ferruginousmineral and ash content, nourishessome of Spain’s most fascinatinggrape varieties. Some trace theirancestry to Middle Eastern traderslike the Phoenicians, who usedSpain’s offshore islands as stagingposts before the Greeks andRomans. These vines have survived,untroubled by Phylloxera, forcenturies in this distant andisolated paradise.Over the last decade, two varietieshave emerged as superstars:


34 35

BRANDY DE JEREZ

type being the category that doesbest there. One representative ofthis category is Bodegas Osborne’sMagno, a long-established brandwhich, three years ago, acquired anolder sibling in the form of Alma deMagno, a Solera Gran Reservabrandy which has been particularlywell-received in Mexico, whichhas always had a soft spot for Brandyde Jerez. Legendary brand Centenario,with its readily recognizable yellowmesh and Andalusian white horsetrademark (originally a BodegasTerry product, now owned by USmultinational Beam Global)is also notable for achieving animpressive comeback.Quite apart from these big names,various wineries in Jerez, some ofthem small-scale and recently

established (albeit in possession ofstocks of old wine), are showingsigns of interest in brandy. Oneexample is Rey Fernando de Castilla,whose Fernando de Castilla Únicoand Edición Especial labels arefinding themselves a comfortableniche in the upper echelons ofthe market, particularly inScandinavia (specifically Norway,Sweden and Denmark).Meanwhile, back in Sanlúcar deBarrameda, big-name wineryBarbadillo is also backing Brandy deJerez, cleverly giving its newly-launched Solera BB brand a very21st-century look and feel. Designedspecifically for drinking with cola-type mixers (it works beautifully!),it is clearly aimed at a youngerpublic. One way and another, new

consumer patterns are emerging,promising a suitably exciting futurefor this venerable Spanish classic.

Jerez-born journalist and authorPaz Ivison specializes in food and wine.Winner of Spain's Premio Nacional deGastronomía, she has published severalbooks, including El Vino: Uso yProtocolo (Temas de Hoy). She is aregular contributor to publications suchas Joyce, Vogue, GQ Españaand GQ México, El Economistaand El Mundo.

Cooking withBrandy de Jerez

Brandy de Jerez has a lot to offer onthe cooking front, and there are manyrecipes, both traditional and modern,that capitalize on its particularqualities. Urta (red-banded seabream) is a local fish that is cooked invarious ways, including the classicUrta al brandy. Local chefs have longsince adopted the technique ofinjecting Brandy de Jerez into poultryand other meat before roasting,achieving flavor-packed, juicy results.In the region’s restaurant cuisine,Brandy de Jerez is the spirit of choicefor flambé dishes and for dessertsfeaturing chocolate (a match made inheaven). These and other dishes

incorporating Brandy de Jerez areon the menus of the recommendedrestaurants incorporated into theexcellent local wine tourism routes(Jerez, Brandy Capital, page 32).The following examples give someidea of what to expect:

La Mesa Redonda

Manuel de la Quintana 3Tel.: (+34) 956 340 069www.restaurantemesaredonda.comJerez de la Frontera

Fillets of local bream stuffed with wildmushrooms and steamed with Brandyde Jerez (Lomos de sargo rellenos derebozuelos al vapor de Brandy deJerez); Partridge stuffed with Brandy

de Jerez-infused foie gras(Perdiz rellena de foie gras alBrandy de Jerez)

El Faro del Puerto

Avda de Fuentebravia s/n.Tel.: (+34) 956 870 952www.elfarodelpuerto.comEl Puerto de Santa María

Lobster tails served on a bed ofparsley-root purée flavored withBrandy de Jerez (Colas de langostasobre puré de raíz de perejil alBrandy de Jerez); Brandy de Jerezflavored chocolate soup servedwith mango and red fruit sorbet (Sopade chocolate al Brandy de Jerezcon sorbete de mango y frutos rojos)


47

WINES

Today it houses a modern wineryproducing an extensive array ofstyles as well as a wine appreciationspace (designed by architect IsabelMonje), which also serves as amusical and artistic venue.Tajinaste, in northern DO Valle deLa Orotava, farms 6 ha (15 acres) ofimmaculately tended 15-year-oldListán Negro, Albillo, Marmajueloand Verijadiego Negro, with theirown remotely monitored weatherstation in the vineyard. From120,000 kg (own and rented vines),Agustín García (father and son)look for mineral nuances to shinethrough the purity of clean fruit.Their Listán Blanco 2009succeeded, also showing the yeastyeffects of battonage from the 30% ofthe blend that went into new oak.Currently they are propagatingcuttings from their own vines, usingmassal selection, in a bid to increasegrape production.

Canary:Shakespeare’stippleChristopher Columbus stopped atthe Canaries on September 6, 1492before setting sail on his fateful,first voyage of discovery.Subsequent travelers who colonizedAmerica rapidly realized thepotential of winemaking part wayto the New World. Thus, theCanaries became a vital port of callbefore tackling arduous oceancrossings where wine remaineddrinkable far longer than water,which has a tendency to turn greenand go off in hot conditions.English traders became particularlyfond of “Canary,” imposing strictguidelines about how to cultivate,harvest and make their preferredproduct. Its fame grew to the point

that Shakespeare referred to itseveral times in his plays.“I will to my honest knightFalstaff, and drink canary withhim.” Act 3, Scene II, The MerryWives of Windsor.Its beneficial effects were also felton the other side of the Atlantic.“There is evidence that after signingthe Declaration of Independence,Thomas Jefferson (third presidentof United States, 1743-1826)suggested a toast with a wine thatappears to have been Canary,” saidgastronomy expert Manuel Iglesias.No doubt fortified by it, Spanishsoldiers inflicted a rare defeat onEngland’s foremost Admiral,Horatio Nelson (1758-1805), wholost his right arm in a failed battleto capture Tenerife. Today mostCanary wineries offer a version ofwhat Elizabethan (16th century)merchants referred to as Canary,or Canary Sack. Sack may be areference to saca, the final stagewhere wine is removed from asolera for bottling. Viña Norte’sHumboldt Malvasía Clásico 2005was a vibrant white redolent of wildhoney, maple syrup and summer

flowers. This impressive co-op(Tenerife’s Bodegas Insulares, DOTacoronte-Acentejo) has a greatrange. Humboldt Vendimia Tardíawas a mouth-filling sweet ListánBlanco, while the port-likeHumboldt red is made from ListánNegro that spent 18 months inAmerican oak.

El Hierro:the treasure chestHierro means iron, the elementwhose oxides provide a red stain towhat is the most recent volcanicisland (1.2 million years old). Itsnew topsoil, full of ferruginousmineral and ash content, nourishessome of Spain’s most fascinatinggrape varieties. Some trace theirancestry to Middle Eastern traderslike the Phoenicians, who usedSpain’s offshore islands as stagingposts before the Greeks andRomans. These vines have survived,untroubled by Phylloxera, forcenturies in this distant andisolated paradise.Over the last decade, two varietieshave emerged as superstars:


32 33

WINES

BRANDY DE JEREZ














4948

CANARY ISLANDS

showed hints of oak, the 2006 wasrounder, more developed. Baboso2007 was huge on the palate, withrumbustious fruit held in place bylarge-scale tannins and crisp, freshacidity surrounded by nuances ofoak. The 2006 showed greatmarriage, a beautifully silkenmouthfeel and a superbly longfinish free of oaky interference,while the 2004 showed almost nosigns of aging compared to theprevious vintage.Vijariego Blanco is easily the mostacidic grape in the Canaries,Méndez said. “It reaches 14-15alcohol with 8-9 acidity in tartaric,”he said. Padrón admitted they hadgiven up making it because it brokeall the preconceptions local buyershave for whites. “No one aroundhere was willing to accept that youneeded to age a white, so theydrank it young and the high alcoholand acidity blew their mouths off,”he said. He solemnly pulled out thelast remaining bottle of Vijariego

Blanco 2004. Fresh peaches andplums floated over a beautifulhoneyed background supplied bywell-integrated wood. Customerswill never know what they missed.

A priceless legacyBritish wine expert Oz Clarke wasforthright about the need to protectand promote Canary Island wines.“Phylloxera crippled Europe’s wineindustry and wiped out an enormousamount of priceless genetic material,”he said. “It’s incredibly important thatwe should take the Phylloxera-freecondition of the Canary Islandsseriously, and that any promising oldvines be preserved and have cuttingspropagated. Who knows what jewelswe might discover for futuregenerations to enjoy?” he said.Fortunately for wine lovers across theworld, a growing number of inspiredviticulturists and wine producers onthe Canaries have taken on themantle and are making exceptional

products. No one can doubt theimportance of their work, especiallywhen you take into consideration thefragility of their environment, andthat of an economy so distant fromthe world’s great markets. On islandswhere vegetative growth tends to belong and slow and cooling tradewinds keep temperatures surprisinglytemperate, and where volcanicminerals infuse aromas and flavorsand altitude can be experimentedwith, producers are making mold-breaking wines.

Harold Heckle is a correspondentfor the Associated Press. Since he firstvisited Spain as a student he has kepthimself connected with Spanishgastronomic culture. On this topic,as a journalist he has contributed tothe BBC and magazines such asDecanter, Wine Magazine, andWine & Spirits. He ran the Wine Cluband the Spanish Wine Club with tastingsat Canning House in London for morethan a decade in the 1980-90s.

WINES

Vijariego and Baboso. Both havered and white clones, with tintostaking the plaudits. Once again,Méndez had a decisive influence intheir rediscovery and propagation.Gonzalo Padrón, once hisuniversity student, invited Méndezto assess a family plot on El Hierro.The results were so stunning thatundergraduate and professorbegan working on a joint projectcalled Tanajara, DO El Hierro.Padrón coaxed his older brother,Pedro Nicolás, to plant 4 ha (9.8acres) under Méndez’s guidance11 years ago and the resultingwines have become a legendamong top restaurateurs andwine buffs in Spain.Demand began to exceed supplyand other local growers startedhiking prices for grapes, so Padrónplanted more, opting for a massalselection from the best vines.Tanajara now has a vineyard atLa Frontera and three at ElLunchón, each with different

solar orientations, using Guyottraining on volcanic soils. The firstharvest for the new plots was 2009,so look for improvements. Thesmall, almost garagiste winery ishoused in an Art Deco buildingin El Pinar.Its vinification area is on theground floor and two barrelhalls are in the basement.Vijariego Negro 2009 (barrelsample) was fruit-driven withdark blackberries and cranberriescocooned in soft spice. The varietycrops three times as much asBaboso, said Méndez, and allowsthem to vinify 15,000 litersof Vijariego to 7,000 liters ofBaboso. Vijariego Negro seduceswith its ability to conveyjoyfully attractive ripe fruit withthe vaguest trace of sassafras on thenose, whereas Baboso is clearlya much bigger wine, able tocommand attention frombeginning to long finish.

Baboso, a risingsuperstarBaboso 2009 (barrel sample) hadspent five months, roughly half itsexpected crianza (oak aging), innew Allier barriques (mainlymedium toast). On the nose itdelivered fleshy fruit, red plumsand berries surrounded by wood-related leathery hints. In the mouthits mineral qualities infusedgloriously ripe fruit over a meatybase held together by firm, refinedtannins, great acidity and a longfruit-and-leather finish. Méndezsaid Baboso is more concentratedand minerally than Vijariego, whichtends to appeal to a youngerclientele. This was confirmed byPadrón’s youngest brother, Martín,who confessed he preferredVijariego Negro. Tasted vertically,both varietals take a couple of yearsin bottle to knit in well with wood,so that while Vijariego Negro 2007


4948

CANARY ISLANDS






WINES






Pop-in posh foodTapas are back in the limelight again. Not that they were ever really out of it:it’s just that they have recently been thrown into sharper focus by theemergence of the “gastrobar” phenomenon. Gastrobars are tapas bars witha difference. Masterminded by some of Spain’s top chefs, they combinetradition and innovation to create a whole new take on tapas: top cookingand attentive service in an informal setting and at everyday prices. In short,pop-in posh food.


BITES21st Century

06 AF_CULIN.FARE_GASTROBARES_1.qxd 23/7/10 11:11 Página 50

53

CULINARYFARE

service is attentive but informal.Other attempts at naming exponentsof the trend include 21st centurybars, neobars, up-to-date tabernas;designer tascas… The nameis, of course, the least importantthing about them: what is importantis what’s on the menu, how theymake their tapas, how they presentthem, and what knock-on effect theyhave had on the restaurant world sofar. Signs of evolution are alreadydiscernible within the gastrobartrend. Much was made initially ofmaintaining the time-honoredcustom of eating tapas standing upat the bar. However, gastrobars havedemonstrated how borrowing smalldetails from top-level restaurants cansend out subtle messages thatdifferentiate them from run-of-the-mill tapas bars. Good glassware,courteous service, an interestingwine list (many sell by the glass atgood value for money) andimaginative tapas are just some ofthe little things that mean a lot.

Speaking at the 2010 Madrid Fusiónfood conference, Andoni LuisAduriz, owner/chef of Mugaritz(Errentería, Basque Country)declared that gastrobars—a crossbetween tapas bars and top-level-restaurants—“represent a realrevolution in Spanish gastronomy:elite chefs using their skills atthe service of a simple style of eating,combining their years of trainingand acquired technique withaffordable prices.”

The MediterraneanconnectionThe gastrobar was already up andrunning as a business model wellbefore Capel coined the term. One ofthe first chefs to make the leap fromhaute cuisine to tapas bar was AlbertAdrià, brother of Ferran of elBullifame. He opened Inopia (on the edgeof Barcelona’s lively El Raval district)in 2006, an obvious tribute toSpain’s tapas tradition.

He opted for small-scale premises,picturesque décor, and a menu ofsimple classics: patatas bravas(chunks of fried potato with piquantsauce), fritura de gambas (friedprawns), croquetas (thick béchamelplus other ingredients, shaped intologs, then crumbed and fried),anchoas (anchovies), and the like.Inopia is always teeming withcustomers, its top-quality ingredientsand creative presentation ensurethat they come back for more.In September 2010 Inopia closedand Albert Adriá made public hisnext project: a new tapas bar withhis brother Ferrán in Barcelona citycentre.Shortly after, also in Barcelona,Carles Abellan (Michelin-star-holderat Comerç24 and chef at two otherrestaurants, Bravo24 andVelódromo) also recognized thepotential in updating the traditionaltapas bar. He set up Tapas 24 insmall premises on calle Diputaciò,very near the elegant Paseo de

52

GASTROBARS

Patatas bravas, ensaladilla rusa,croquetas, anchoas, boquerones… theseare just a few examples of tapas youare sure to find in bars all over Spain.So what can be said about them thathasn’t been said before? Critics,cooks and consumers seem united indeclaring tapas a particularly Spanishapproach to eating out—informally—among friends, and for the purepleasure of it all.Interestingly, eating tapas-style hasproved to be an exportablegastronomic model. The idea ofspending time in pleasant company,when the conversation flows andfun is had, punctuated by personallyselected mouthfuls of deliciousfood and drink and all for verylittle money goes down equallywell in New York, Tokyo, Londonand Melbourne.So far, so familiar, but in the last fewyears tapas have acquired powerfulchampions in the form of Spain’savant-garde chefs for whom tapasrepresent another outlet for creative

expression: capitalizing on the factthat that they are so intrinsic a partof Spain’s culinary heritage, they areusing them as a way of making top-flight gastronomy accessible to theeating-out public at large. Over thelast five years or so, many chefs(all of Michelin Red Guide standard)have adopted a new approach,channeling their haute cuisine skillsand experience and their carefullysourced raw materials into thetraditional world of tapas.For the most part, the chefs inquestion combine running upmarketrestaurants with others that are moreaccessible to the average consumer,in terms of both the food they serveand what it costs. Top chef plus tapaformat plus informal service plusaffordable prices: it all adds up to awinning formula.

Name the trendEvery new artistic movement orfashion trend needs a good name to

separate it from what came before.The top-chef-and-tapa concept hasyet to find a definitive one: therehave been various good stabs at it,the best so far coined by José CarlosCapel, food critic and co-founder ofthe Madrid Fusión food conference.Some time around 2007, a reviewby Capel of Estado Puro, a tapas barlaunched by Madrid chef PacoRoncero (of 2-Michelin-starLa Terraza del Casino), appearedin Spain’s national daily paperEl País, drawing media and publicattention to a new gastronomictrend and investing it withcredibility in the process.Capel is credited with coining theterm “gastrobar”, which seems to bethe label most often used in foodcircles. He was also the first tocatalogue certain basic features ofthis new phenomenon: they areowned or set up by prestigious chefs;they serve a “gastronomic” menucomposed of tapas or small servings;they charge reasonable prices;

TEXTRODRIGO GARCÍA /©ICEX

TRANSLATIONHAWYS PRITCHARD/©ICEX

La Chimenea de Echaurren, La Rioja Bacus, Almería La Moraga Airport, Málaga


When a customer sits down on astool at the one of the high tables,he or she is issued with a “welcomekit” composed of the menu, napkinsand cutlery, and invited to select histapas from an imaginative rangecreated by Paco Roncero, whichincludes: patatas bravas evocativeof a Cubist painting; bocadillo dechorizo (chorizo sausage sandwich)full of classic flavor, although it has arather different look; and, among themost popular favorites, minihamburguesa (a miniature hamburgermade of prime minced meat, servedwith old-fashioned mustard).Paco Roncero is not the only bigname chef to combine top-flightrestaurant skills with a tapas bar inthe Spanish capital. Having won twoMichelin stars in his Madridrestaurant, Sergi Arola also opened

is generally where these areto be found.”The Taberna also serves an artichokedish that is another example of thispersonal campaign for qualityproducts. Geni reveals the secret ofits success: “We use organically-grown artichokes and vacuum cookthem for six hours: it’s a techniquethat preserves all their nutrients andall their flavor, because they cook intheir own juice.” The only additionis a little vinaigrette as a finishingtouch to a dish packed with garden-fresh flavor.

Posh food for allAll the cooks and food punditsconsulted while preparing this articlewere unanimous in identifying“democratization of haute cuisine”

(to quote Paco Roncero) as onereason why the new gastrobars aredoing so well. Roncero openedEstado Puro, Madrid’s first gastrobar,just two years ago. The launch at theend of 2010 of a second Estado Puro(also in Madrid; both are located inhotels in the NH hotel chain) sosoon after the first is a clear indicatorof how well it has been doing.“We apply our haute cuisine know-how to running a tapas bar, creating ahybrid product that encourages thepublic to try new gastronomicexperiences,” declares Roncero.Estado Puro is located opposite thePrado Museum, one of Madrid’smajor tourist magnets, and its interiordécor incorporates a reference totraditional Spain in the form ofover 1,000 white mantilla combs,which cover the ceiling and one wall.

54 55

GASTROBARS

Graçia. Beyond its modest entranceis a long bar at which customersseated on stools sample the tapas forwhich it has become famous:ensaladilla rusa (diced potato andother vegetables in mayonnaise),callos (stewed beef tripe), albóndigas(meatballs), calamares rellenos (stuffedsquid)... It is not unusual to seewould-be customers outside in thestreet waiting for a place at the bar inwhat has become one of Barcelona’smost popular destinations withlocals and tourists alike.Another pioneer of the gastrobarmovement is La Taberna delGourmet, again in a Mediterraneanlocation, albeit further south, inAlicante. In 2003, chef María JoséSan Román (of Michelin-starredMonastrell restaurant) and herdaughter, Geni Perramón, started

exploring the possibility of settingup “a tapas bar serving top-qualityproducts.” Geni, just back fromcompleting hospitality industrytraining in Switzerland, had verydefinite ideas: “My scheme was tochampion a local product andreacquaint the public withsomething that had becomea thing of the past: the natural,essential flavors and aromasof food,” she explains.The minute you enter La Taberna delGourmet you notice the attentiongiven to prime materials. Behind thebar, waiters can be seen makingtapas, slicing a splendid pure acorn-fed Iberico ham by hand, andrustling up an Alicante-style saladout of nothing-but-the-bestingredients (tomato, dried saltedtuna, grey mullet roe, chunks of

artichoke, marinated olives, extravirgin olive oil and salt). Everythingon the menu looks so delicious thatone ends up dithering.In its quest for the best, the Tabernadel Gourmet team carried out aresearch project with botanistSantiago Orts, owner of the Huertode Elche company, into 25 varietiesof organically-grown tomato. GeniPerramón reports that one result ofthe project was “one of our mostdelicious dishes: our natural tomatomedley.” Food doesn’t get muchsimpler than that. “It’s amazing that adish of different kinds of tomato cutup with a slosh of olive oil and a fewflakes of salt can give so muchenjoyment.” And why does it? “It’sbecause our customers want thereal thing—true flavors and aromas—and the simple natural product

Tapas 24, Barcelona La Taberna del Gourmet, Alicante


57

CULINARYFARE

an informal alternative wherecustomers can sit at the bar andsample the tapas while enjoying afront-row view of the fascinatingspectacle of cooks at work.Le Cabrera is in one of the smartestparts of town, the Justicia district,where it rubs elbows with shops likeMarc Jacobs and Carolina Herrera.Sergi Arola has given an added twistto the gastrobar concept in that LeCabrera combines an atmospherictapas bar with a de luxe cocktail bar(managed by barman Diego Cabrera,a respected figure in his field). In hisusual way, Arola appointed amember of his team to run thekitchen: Frenchman BenjaminBensoussan, whose professionalcareer has been spent largelyworking alongside Arola, first atLa Broche and later at Sergi ArolaGastro, his two-Michelin-starrestaurant. Bensoussan, anotherdevotee of top-quality products,monitors absolutely everything thatcomes into Le Cabrera’s kitchen.“Wild mushrooms, artichokes,

asparagus and Tudela lettuce heartsare delivered to me every week byRafa, a young market gardener fromNavarre,” he informs us. He gets histomatoes directly from marketgardens in inland Majorca, razorclams from Galicia, and extra virginolive oil is conspicuously presentin his kitchen.His menu includes a highlyidiosyncratic version of Caesar saladmade with the lettuce hearts fromNavarre; pantumaca (homemadebread rubbed with ripe tomato andgarlic whose pungency has beentempered by being soaked inadvance), which is a great favoritewith customers; and deliciouschicken wings obtained fromVirgilio, a poulterer’s very close toLe Cabrera and fount of some of thebest poultry in Madrid.“The challenge is to produce greatfood, food that is interesting andof high quality, using readilyaffordable products to keep the costto the customer as low as possible,”explains this enthusiastic young

chef. “Our approach, as well asproviding tasty, entertaining tapas,brings more added value with it:memorable décor, attentive service(everyone who works here speaksthree languages), and a wine cellarthat is small but contains interestingwines which we sell by the glass.”Benjamin designed Le Cabrera’stapas menu working closely withSergi Arola, though half a dozenchanges were subsequently made tothe initial selection of 30 tapas onBenjamin’s advice. “We’ve removedtapas that didn’t really work andmade other seasonal additions,” heexplains. “When designing the menuone has to bear in mind thatcustomers of Le Cabrera aren’t all thekind of people that also eat at SergiArola Gastro, and don’t have thatmuch money to spend, either.”This in no way inhibits him if hefinds marvelous red prawns in themarket one morning: “What I do isbuy in small quantities, because ofthe 30 people a day who come in forlunch, two or three are likely to

GASTROBARS

Le Cabrera, Madrid


59

CULINARYFARE

choose the prawns, no matterhow delicious, because they willinevitably send the cost up.”Which tapas do their customerslike best? “Possibly Sergi’s versionof patatas bravas (caramelizedpotatoes served with a homemadespicy sauce) or our own version ofkebab (milk-fed lamb, the usualkebab spices and herbs) served withcaramelized onion, finely-choppedlettuce, a tub containing yoghurt,cream cheese, cucumber, mint,coriander and parsley and anothercontaining pita bread cut like frenchfries. As for fish, chopitos a la andaluza(tiny fried cuttle fish in chick peaflour batter), and vieiras con citricos(scallops with citrus fruits) keepcustomers coming back for more.According to Benjamin, one of theadvantages of working somewherelike Le Cabrera is the face-to-facecontact with the clientele: “It’s aluxury that just isn’t possible in asmart formal restaurant. Here, thecustomer sits on a stool at the bar,orders his tapas and we chat awaywhile I make them.” The gapbetween cook and customer can’tget much narrower.

Eating at the barIn Spain, it has always been thecustom to go from bar to bar forone’s tapas, following a kind ofpilgrimage route punctuated byglasses of wine and little snacks:savory morsels on sticks, one’s shareof a helping of the house specialty…These days, that pattern isparalleled by another, which stillinvolves eating at the bar, but in

this case comfortably seated on achair or stool.Le Cabrera is one example of thisnew pattern, as is La Moraga Banús,one of the gastrobars mastermindedby Dani García (of one-Michelin-star Calima restaurant in Marbella).The La Moraga project is one of themost ambitious of the new arrivals,both for the number ofestablishments involved and for itsinternational aspirations. It allbegan in Malaga in 2008, whenDani García opened La Moraga, anup-to-date, modern tapas bar in thehistoric quarter of town, right in theepicenter of traditional tapasterritory. “People who knew meassociated me with the luxury andelitism attached to a haute cuisinerestaurant, but I wanted to reach awider public and to do so throughtapas.” Dani decided to model hisfirst tapas restaurant on thetraditional bar at which customerseat standing up, just like all the

other tapas destinations in town.His croquetas de pringá (croquettesmade with the pork belly, chorizoand blood sausage from atraditional cocido stew), flamenquines(slices of cured Serrano hamwrapped around pork loin,breadcrumbed and fried), andgazpacho de cerezas (cold cherrysoup) were soon a huge successamong a public avid for newgastronomic treats; the secondMoraga followed, this time inPuerto Banús, Marbella: “There,I realized that the customersmight be more comfortable seatedaround a big central bar, and thatone could carry the comfort of arestaurant over into the tapas milieuand create a user-friendly sort ofluxury in the process.” The tapasmenu there includes Iberico curedham in various guises, fresh peachgazpacho, an oxtail burger (knownas burger bull) and groupersashimi with soy and lemon.

Estado Puro, Madrid


to book a table at Alejandro.”Alejandro García’s Bacus tabernaprovides further proof that thesesignature tapas bars need not be theexclusive preserve of big towns likeMadrid, Barcelona and Málaga. InAsturias, the Loya family has injectedextra verve into Gijón’s tapas scenewith the opening of its restaurant-cum-tapas bar Avant Garde, locatedwithin a hotel very close to SanLorenzo beach. The Loyas are theproprietors of the much lauded one-Michelin-star Real Balneario deSalinas restaurant in Avilés, and ofthe Deloya in the Asturian capital,Oviedo. Javier Loya is the eldest sonof family patriarch, Miguel, and runsAvant Garde a tapas bar that servesnew interpretations of traditionalAsturian recipes and other dishesthat have been on the menu at the

Real Balneario de Salinas fordecades, now given a new twist toadapt them to the tapa concept. Indrawing up the menu, “we dividedour list of dishes into two sections:mini-tapas, consisting of one or twomouthfuls, and tapas that are theequivalent of half helpings, to enableour customers to sample a widerrange of dishes.”The local cuisine closely reflects thetop-quality products obtained fromthe sea and from inland Asturias.Examples include bocadito de chorizocriollo (bite-sized tapa of localsausage), fritos de pixín (monkfishgoujons) and mejillones escabechados(pickled mussels).A space that was barely paying itsway was what spurred on FrancisPaniego (of one-Michelin-starRestaurante El Portal de Echaurren

in La Rioja) to create his owngastrobar, La Chimenea delEchaurren. “We redesigned what usedto be the cafeteria of our hotel, theEchaurren, to create an informal

Useful websites

· www.tapasenestadopuro.comEstado Puro (Spanish)

· www.projectes24.comTapas 24 (English and Spanish)

· www.latabernadelgourmet.comLa Taberna del Gourmet (Spanish)

· www.lecabrera.comLe Cabrera (Spanish)

· www.lamoraga.comLa Moraga (Spanish)

· www.echaurren.comLa Chimenea de Echaurren (Spanish)

60 61

GASTROBARS

The next move was the launch ofdesigner patisserie La Moraga Sweet,a joint venture with masterchocolatier Paco Torreblanca, aLa Moraga at Málaga airport, and aLa Moraga in Madrid. Any plans totake La Moraga international? “We’vealready reached agreements with localpartners and we’ve appointed kitchenteams to open in Manhattan, Tokyoand London. We’ve also received veryinteresting offers from Mexico, Brazil,Portugal and even Latvia.” Thechallenge is to ensure that the qualitystandard set by the tapas at Málaga’sLa Moraga is replicated at all the otherMoragas: “We’ve selected recipes thatcan travel all over the globe withoutneeding to be adapted, and of coursethe fundamental answer is to createteams that are committed to LaMoraga’s philosophy and objectives.”

Customer loyaltyThe hybrid formula thatcharacterizes the new generation oftapas bars is a good way ofovercoming the dread that poshrestaurants can induce in somepeople, as noted by Dani García.Indeed, gastrobar customerssometimes make a shift to theirfamous chef’s “proper” restaurant.Alejandro García is a young cheffrom Andalusia and owner of theone-Michelin-star Alejandrorestaurant in Roquetas de Mar,Almería, and of a taberna calledBacus. He is well aware of theopportunity this represents: “Theinformal bar and tables set-up atBacus is perfect for someone whojust wants a quick glass of wine anda small snack. Another day he might

have a go at a couple of mini-raciones(small helpings) of tapas and, overtime, gradually work up to stayingfor Bacus’s full dinner menu of tapasand mini-raciones.” Such a menumight include salmorejo (cold soupmade with tomato, water, vinegar,extra virgin olive oil, salt andpepper) served with mojama (driedsalted tuna), a pork rib hamburger,or curried Iberico pork cheek.The subject of popularizing hautecuisine again crops up inconversation: “I’m convinced thata large segment of the publichas the wrong idea about the sortof food that top chefs produce.Thanks to the success of the Bacustaberna, many customers have beenable to overcome their wariness, havegot to know and like our cooking,and in many cases have gone on

Inopia, Barcelona


venue with good service andaffordable prices, with the addedattraction of offering views onto theplaza in front of the church in ourvillage, Ezcaray.” Customer favoritesat this gastrobar include ensaladillarusa, panceta con alcachofas y manzana(pancetta with artichokes and apple)and croquetas made by Francis’smother, Marisa Sánchez, that arealready a local legend.A return to tapas at their mosttraditional form is represented byKoldo Royo. Having retained hisMichelin star at his restaurant inPalma de Majorca for nearly adecade, this Basque-born chefdecided early this year on a changeof direction. The result is Aquiara, abar specializing in classic tapas andpinchos, also in Palma. “Althoughrestaurant critics and the pressseemed unable to focus on anything

but posh restaurants at one period,the fact is that Spaniards have alwaysbeen more inclined towards tapas-type eating than eating out inrestaurants,” declares Koldo Royo.Majorca is a year-round tourist

destination, and as such provides agood gauge of how tourists get onwith tapas: “Foreign visitors not onlyrespond very positively to topquality tapas, they actually comehere with the specific purpose ofseeking them out.”Spain’s top chefs are obviouslydetermined to keep the tapastradition alive and kicking, whetherin the form we have always knownand loved or in a freer, more creativeguise. As a result of thismultidirectional approach, tapas aremore popular than ever, confidentlyoccupying their place in Spain’sgastronomic repertoire, past, presentand future. Are you keeping up?

Journalist Rodrigo García Fernándezis a member of the editorial team ofwww.spaingourmetour.com.

José Andrés: the Midas touch

Thanks to Asturian chef José Andrés,North Americans have been enjoying thepleasures of Spanish tapas for over adecade. Food critics and the eating-outpublic are unanimous in declaring him thebest ambassador for Spanish food to theUnited States, through the medium of histhree Jaleo restaurants, his Minibar, andfrequent appearances on various UStelevision programs. His last idea (healways has some new project in mind) wasthe well-received restaurant The Bazaar,located in Los Angeles’s SLS hotel. Onesection of it, called Rojo y Blanca, isdedicated entirely to showcasing thepleasures of tapas and top-quality Spanishproducts. A tempting menu ranges fromlife-long tapa classics to cutting-edgeones that use 21st century techniques.Info: www.thebazaar.com

Josep’s bikinis

Josep Barahona arrived in Tokyo over 20years ago to try his hand at running arestaurant and has been there ever since.Catalan by birth and Japanese byadoption, he has devoted hisprofessional career to teaching the

Japanese everything there is to knowabout tapas and what can be done withthem. With various hugely successfulventures under his belt (he is also theauthor of best-selling books abouttapas), Josep’s current Tokyoestablishments are a restaurant, L’Estudi,which has a cult following (it has just theone table, seats 8, and is where he giveshis more avant-garde tendencies free rein),and two bars, Bikini and Bikini Tapa, thatspecialize in tapas and small helpings ofdishes inspired by Catalan cuisine.

Freixa down under

You can’t get much further away fromSpain than Australia, but that is where chefRamón Freixa (one Michelin star, Madrid)has gone. Having earned himself a loyalfollowing, first in Barcelona and then inMadrid, he made for Melbourne toimplement an impressively ambitiousscheme: a restaurant called Planta 27(meaning “27th Floor”) and a tapas barcalled Sótano (meaning “Basement”), bothin the Hilton Melbourne. The tapas barcombines the sophistication of a de luxehotel with the culinary potential ofimaginative tapas. Acorn-fed Iberico curedham and a selection of great Spanish

wines are just two of the attractionsthat Ramón Freixa can offer Australiangourmets. Info:www.hiltonmelbourne.com.au

A little bit of Asturias in London

Portland Street, on the edge ofLondon’s West End, is the site ofIbérica Food & Culture, a veritabletemple to Spanish gastronomy: itincorporates a bookshop, an eventsroom for receptions and presentations,a shop selling Spanish foodstuffs, atop-class restaurant run by NachoManzano (of 2-Michelin-star CasaMarcial, in Asturias) and a tapas barwhere perfectionist managerialstandards are much in evidence. Nachois ably supported at hands-on level bySantiago Guerrero, a young chef withseveral years’ experience in London.Ibérica’s range of hot and cold tapas,some traditional, others new wave, andthe occasional hint of the Asturianculinary repertoire pulls in customersevery evening, especially after work(Spain Gourmetour No.78). A genuinetaste of Spain seems to help peopleswitch off at the end of the workingday. Info: www.ibericalondon.co.uk

Tapas AroundThe World

62 63

GASTROBARS

La Chimenea de Echaurren, La Rioja



Pop-in posh foodTapas are back in the limelight again. Not that they were ever really out of it:it’s just that they have recently been thrown into sharper focus by theemergence of the “gastrobar” phenomenon. Gastrobars are tapas bars witha difference. Masterminded by some of Spain’s top chefs, they combinetradition and innovation to create a whole new take on tapas: top cookingand attentive service in an informal setting and at everyday prices. In short,pop-in posh food.


BITES21st Century


venue with good service andaffordable prices, with the addedattraction of offering views onto theplaza in front of the church in ourvillage, Ezcaray.” Customer favoritesat this gastrobar include ensaladillarusa, panceta con alcachofas y manzana(pancetta with artichokes and apple)and croquetas made by Francis’smother, Marisa Sánchez, that arealready a local legend.A return to tapas at their mosttraditional form is represented byKoldo Royo. Having retained hisMichelin star at his restaurant inPalma de Majorca for nearly adecade, this Basque-born chefdecided early this year on a changeof direction. The result is Aquiara, abar specializing in classic tapas andpinchos, also in Palma. “Althoughrestaurant critics and the pressseemed unable to focus on anything

but posh restaurants at one period,the fact is that Spaniards have alwaysbeen more inclined towards tapas-type eating than eating out inrestaurants,” declares Koldo Royo.Majorca is a year-round tourist

destination, and as such provides agood gauge of how tourists get onwith tapas: “Foreign visitors not onlyrespond very positively to topquality tapas, they actually comehere with the specific purpose ofseeking them out.”Spain’s top chefs are obviouslydetermined to keep the tapastradition alive and kicking, whetherin the form we have always knownand loved or in a freer, more creativeguise. As a result of thismultidirectional approach, tapas aremore popular than ever, confidentlyoccupying their place in Spain’sgastronomic repertoire, past, presentand future. Are you keeping up?

Journalist Rodrigo García Fernándezis a member of the editorial team ofwww.spaingourmetour.com.

José Andrés: the Midas touch

Thanks to Asturian chef José Andrés,North Americans have been enjoying thepleasures of Spanish tapas for over adecade. Food critics and the eating-outpublic are unanimous in declaring him thebest ambassador for Spanish food to theUnited States, through the medium of histhree Jaleo restaurants, his Minibar, andfrequent appearances on various UStelevision programs. His last idea (healways has some new project in mind) wasthe well-received restaurant The Bazaar,located in Los Angeles’s SLS hotel. Onesection of it, called Rojo y Blanca, isdedicated entirely to showcasing thepleasures of tapas and top-quality Spanishproducts. A tempting menu ranges fromlife-long tapa classics to cutting-edgeones that use 21st century techniques.Info: www.thebazaar.com

Josep’s bikinis

Josep Barahona arrived in Tokyo over 20years ago to try his hand at running arestaurant and has been there ever since.Catalan by birth and Japanese byadoption, he has devoted hisprofessional career to teaching the

Japanese everything there is to knowabout tapas and what can be done withthem. With various hugely successfulventures under his belt (he is also theauthor of best-selling books abouttapas), Josep’s current Tokyoestablishments are a restaurant, L’Estudi,which has a cult following (it has just theone table, seats 8, and is where he giveshis more avant-garde tendencies free rein),and two bars, Bikini and Bikini Tapa, thatspecialize in tapas and small helpings ofdishes inspired by Catalan cuisine.

Freixa down under

You can’t get much further away fromSpain than Australia, but that is where chefRamón Freixa (one Michelin star, Madrid)has gone. Having earned himself a loyalfollowing, first in Barcelona and then inMadrid, he made for Melbourne toimplement an impressively ambitiousscheme: a restaurant called Planta 27(meaning “27th Floor”) and a tapas barcalled Sótano (meaning “Basement”), bothin the Hilton Melbourne. The tapas barcombines the sophistication of a de luxehotel with the culinary potential ofimaginative tapas. Acorn-fed Iberico curedham and a selection of great Spanish

wines are just two of the attractionsthat Ramón Freixa can offer Australiangourmets. Info:www.hiltonmelbourne.com.au

A little bit of Asturias in London

Portland Street, on the edge ofLondon’s West End, is the site ofIbérica Food & Culture, a veritabletemple to Spanish gastronomy: itincorporates a bookshop, an eventsroom for receptions and presentations,a shop selling Spanish foodstuffs, atop-class restaurant run by NachoManzano (of 2-Michelin-star CasaMarcial, in Asturias) and a tapas barwhere perfectionist managerialstandards are much in evidence. Nachois ably supported at hands-on level bySantiago Guerrero, a young chef withseveral years’ experience in London.Ibérica’s range of hot and cold tapas,some traditional, others new wave, andthe occasional hint of the Asturianculinary repertoire pulls in customersevery evening, especially after work(Spain Gourmetour No.78). A genuinetaste of Spain seems to help peopleswitch off at the end of the workingday. Info: www.ibericalondon.co.uk

Tapas AroundThe World

62 63

GASTROBARS

La Chimenea de Echaurren, La Rioja


4948

CANARY ISLANDS






WINES






PRESERVINGSPAIN Peek in the window of any Spanish shop

specializing in traditional gastronomicgoods and you will see row upon rowof glass jars flaunting a colorful varietyof contents. There are vegetables andlegumes to be sure, and possibly a pickledpartridge or trout, but also an astoundingarray of fruits such as peaches, pears,apricots, figs, cherries and chestnuts.They have been preserved whole in everyimaginable way with syrup, water, whiskey,brandy, wine, vinegar and honey. Andwhile these conservas (preserves) mightvary from region to region in terms of typesof fruit, harvest times, and preparationmethods, the companies that create thesespecialty products share a dedication topreserving their artisanal quality, whilekeeping an eye on future industry trends.

TextAdrienne Smith/©ICEX

PhotosToya Legido/©ICEX

07 AF_TRANSFORMADOS CONSERVAS_1_MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 23/07/10 19:47 Página 64

67

lush green vineyards. The entirevalley seems to bustle with warblingbirds and buzzing bees. In the townof Carracedelo, the floor of the smallcanning factory at De lo NuestroArtesano is all but deserted and themachines are silent. This family-owned company grows all of its ownfruit, and while it’s still on the trees,José Manuel Sernández, theTechnical and Quality ControlDirector, can be found outsidechecking on the cherry, fig or pearorchards, or looking over plans forthe new organic quince plantation.José Manuel knows that the secret toproducing great conservas is the carehe takes throughout the creativeprocess. What goes on in the factoryis only the final step.The region of El Bierzo is locatedabout 100 km (62 mi) west of thecity of León in the province of thesame name. This leafy valley issurrounded by mountains that createa temperate microclimate in whichfruit trees abound and, according tolocals, their fruit develops a specialconcentrated fragrance unique tothis area. Of particular note here arethe Protected Designation of Origin(PDO) Reineta apples, Conference

pears, Napoleon cherries, and thesmall and flavorful El Bierzochestnuts. The latter wereintroduced by the Romans at thehistoric Las Médulas gold mines (aUNESCO World Heritage Site) andwere used there as food for the slaveminers. This region was also the siteof the country’s first artisanalpreserving industry, founded in1818. In El Bierzo, preserving fruit isa tradition handed down throughgenerations, along with thecorresponding secret family recipes.Even the most common technique ofpreserving fruits in a sugar-watersyrup, known in Spain as almíbar,can vary greatly from one recipe tothe next depending on theproportions used.El Bierzo is not one of the largestfruit producing regions in Spain, butis known for the quality of itsproduce. Country-wide, most of thepears used to make the 13,345,000tons of pear preserves produced in2009, came from Catalonia, Aragónor La Rioja; according to dataprovided by the FNACV. However, asJosé Manuel Sernández points out,the Conference pears from El Bierzosell for 20-25 cents a kilo (2.2 lb)

more than their counterparts grownin other areas. The exceptional pearsgrown here are also protected by aMarca de Garantía, or QualityGuarantee, given by the AsociaciónBerciana de Agricultores (El BierzoAgricultural Association).To prepare their whole pearpreserves in red wine and honey, thepears are hand peeled and bottled inwine made from the local Mencíagrape. The honey, also bottled aloneor with walnuts, is harvested on-siteevery year. In spring, bees pollinatethe mountain heather before beingmoved down to the orchards whenthe apple and pear trees areblooming. The result is a honeyof unusual color and aroma and akey ingredient of the distinctivepear preserves.Other traditional products includethe delicious El Bierzo chestnuts,either roasted or bottled in brandy,water or syrup, and Napoleoncherries. Like all of the other fruit insyrup, the cherries are cooked at alower temperature to preserve theirnatural qualities, and then steeped ineither orujo (a distilled beverage fromthe remains of grapes after pressingthem) or whiskey. According to

66

Preserving fruits such as grapes andfigs through drying or soaking inhoney, vinegar or alcohol has beenpracticed on the Iberian Peninsulasince pre-Roman times. Anothertraditional technique consisted ofcoating fruit in beeswax or resin andburying or storing it in caves toprevent spoilage. While many ofthese methods are still used today,the most common preservationpractices involve the hermeticcanning technique developed byFrenchman Nicolas François Appertin the late 18th century. Appert’sexperiments with preserving food inglass jars paid off in the early 19th

century when he won an awardoffered by the French government toanyone who could devise a way topreserve foodstuffs for Napoleon’sarmies. His method involved placingfood in glass containers that weresealed with wax and a cork stopperand then boiled in a type of pressurecooker. Although a thoroughunderstanding of why this techniqueprevented spoilage would have towait another 50 years for LouisPasteur’s research on microbes andfood sterilization, Appert’s processquickly spread to Spain and the rest

of the world, where it was graduallyrefined for industrial use as newtechnologies came into play.On both an industrial and domesticlevel, food preservation provided away to make seasonal and surplusfood available throughout the year.And while the technology ofcontainers has changed, the artisanalpreparation of today’s gourmet fruitpreserves has remained virtuallyunaltered since the process was firstdiscovered. While these productsform an integral part of Spain’s longgastronomic tradition, they alsoappeal to the culinary avant-gardeand a growing export market. Forthis reason, the companies that makethem not only honor historic andartisanal traditions, but also pursuenew and original ideas that allow theindustry to evolve and grow, bothlocally and internationally.Despite their hallowed place inSpanish gastronomy, it is difficult togauge the commercial value of thesespecialty gourmet products. Theyrepresent only a small niche inSpain’s massive canned fruit industrywhich, according to the FederaciónNacional de Asociaciones de laIndustria de Conservas Vegetales

(National Federation of Associationsfrom the Fruit and VegetablePreserves Industry, FNACV),accounts for 35% of the 1.5 billiontons of vegetable preserves (fruit,vegetables, jams, tomato preserves)produced annually. The gourmetconservas market varies by region,and areas that produce the most fruitor even fruit preserves do notnecessarily have the greatest varietyof gourmet products. However, someloose generalizations can be madeabout certain areas based on thetypes of companies found there.Three examples bear mentioning:El Bierzo, in the northwest, whichhas a long and historic tradition ofmaking artisanal fruit preserves;Teruel, in the northeast, a provincewhose fruit preserves center on itsfamous peaches; and southeasternMurcia, one of Spain’s major fruitproducing provinces, where newgourmet lines demonstrateconfidence in the market’s future.

Bountiful El BierzoIt’s springtime in El Bierzo, and therust-colored hillsides are dotted withbright purple brezo (heather) and

FRUIT PRESERVES

FOODBASICS

07 AF_TRANSFORMADOS CONSERVAS_1.qxd 5/8/10 10:44 Página 66

FRUIT PRESERVES

Roberto Carballo, Sales Manager ofDe lo Nuestro Artesano, “the secretto making good preserves is usinggood ingredients. When there is aningredient that we cannot produceourselves, such as orujo or whiskey,we look for the best that we canfind elsewhere to complement ourfruit. To that end, we conductexhaustive analyses and tastingsbefore making the final selection.”He further explains that when usingan alcoholic ingredient such asorujo or whiskey, it is not necessaryto pressure cook the bottle. At acertain proof, alcohol acts as asterilization agent and as long as thebottle is sealed correctly, theproduct can last a lifetime.An air of tradition envelops this 25-year-old company, from its naturalingredients and family-runatmosphere to the quaint cloth-topped bottles in which its productsare sold. At the same time, the smallfactory is sleek and modern, and thecompany is clearly focused ondeveloping its export business andgrowth strategy. It currently exports

about 10% of its products tocountries in Europe such as the UK,Holland, Belgium, Sweden andFrance; as well as to Mexico andgrowing markets in Singapore, Chinaand Japan. In Asia the company’smost popular product is sweet-and-sour figs, preserved whole in vinegar,salt, sugar and powdered mustardseed. This unique product illustratesthe company’s goal of creatingpreserves that are both traditionaland innovative at the same time.“The purpose of these specialtyproducts is to add anotherdimension to the fruit, presenting itfrom an entirely new angle,” explainsJosé Manuel. This particular preservehas also gained popularity at thenearby Parador de San Marcos (anational heritage hotel), in León,where you can sample Grilled vealmedallions with sweet-and-sour figsand roasted red peppers, yet anotherof their products. Two years ago, thecompany’s roasted chestnuts in syrupwere featured on a Spanish-themedmenu at 52 Omni Hotels across theUnited States, while its sweet-and-

sour figs are currently included onthe menu of Scandinavian luxuryViking Line cruises.Just across the valley in Canedo,José Luis Prada of Prada a Tope hasbeen channeling the riches of ElBierzo into artisanal, handmadefruit preserves for 37 years. One ofPrada’s many specialties are thechestnuts in syrup, made from the“Pared” chestnut variety, carefullyselected from local producers.Finding the best chestnuts is onlythe first step in this long andinvolved process. The chestnuts aresoaked for two days and the peel isremoved by hand. The peeledchestnuts spend another day ofsoaking to soften their inner meat,before being briefly boiled in smallbatches of only 20 to 30. Then theyare tenderly hand-wrapped insquares of gauze (to hold theirshape) and cooked with sugarintermittently for five hours overthree days. Finally, they are drainedand combined with the syrup fromthe cooking process in glass jars,which are heated and sealed.


70

Physical Preservation

· Sterilization or Pasteurization:

Fruit and ingredients are sealed in glassjars after boiling or pressure cooking tokill microorganisms (bacteria and fungi).This practice is commonly referred to as“canning”.

· Freezing:

Low temperatures slow down allbiological processes including decay.Freezing also makes water less availableto microbes.

· Freeze Drying:

A dehydration process, which evaporateswater at low temperature and pressure.The reduced water content (1-4%)inhibits the growth of microbes. Flavor,aroma and nutritional value are usuallyrestored when fruit is rehydrated.

· Air Drying:

A method of slowly evaporating waterfrom fruit using hot air (traditionally thesun and wind). Some changes in tasteand texture often occur.

· Vacuum Packing:

Fruit is stored in an airless environment tohinder the growth of certain microbes.This is not a long-term storage option.

· Irradiation:

Fruit is exposed to ionizing radiation thatkills microbes and reduces its oxidation. Itis sometimes called “cold pasteurization”.

· Coating:

A traditional method of coating fruit withbeeswax or resin, followed by burial orstorage in caves. Darkness and cold helpslow oxidation and decay.

Chemical Preservation

· Sugaring:

In syrup: cooking in a sugar-water syrup,or almíbar, creates a hostile environmentfor microbes. Confitado refers topreserving fruit in a higher density sugar-syrup.

· Crystallization:

Fresh fruit is cooked in syrup, then driedand preserved; dried fruit is covered withcrystalline sugar, syrup, honey ormolasses. Versions of these may beknown as candied fruit, glacé, or confit.

· Pickling:

Fruit is marinated in an acidic solution(usually vinegar), which is sufficient to killmost bacteria. Anti-microbial spices suchas mustard seed and cinnamon may beadded, as well as sugar for a sweet-and-sour effect.

· Alcohol:

Soaking or cooking fruit in alcoholicbeverages (such as wine or brandy) caneffectively sterilize it. Sugar is often addedas well.

Fruit PreservationMethods


73

FOODBASICS

This labor-intensive process typifiesthe care that goes into all of theirproducts, which also include pear,cherry and fig preserves. These andother products can be sampled at thePalacio de Canedo Restaurant, partof a beautiful 300-year-old buildingon the same property that wasconverted into a hotel earlier thisdecade. According to José LuisPrada, who likens the restaurant’sdish of Chestnuts in syrup overlemon cream to a kind of ecstasy:“This place exudes a sensuality thattruly envelops people.” In case youcan’t make it all the way to El Bierzo,the company exports about 4% of itsannual sales, primarily to Europeancountries and Mexico.Prada a Tope is not the onlycompany to emphasize the culinaryapplications of its preserves, a detailthat is especially important when itcomes to exporting. Outside ofSpain, these may be unfamiliarproducts that people are unsure howto use. As Roberto Carballo explains,

“While someone in the UK might beinterested in trying sweet-and-sourfigs, it can be interesting for them tobe informed, for example, that theyare an excellent accompaniment forlamb.” Therefore, many companiesinclude tips and recipes on theirwebsites or in their catalogs. De loNuestro Artesano has 25 pages ofRecommendations From Our Kitchen,with suggestions such as Sweet-and-sour fig tempura. Another suchcompany is Rosara, in Navarre,which makes peaches, pears, andchestnuts in syrup and currentlyexports around 30,000 euros worthof these products to Panama, theUnited States and France. Itswebpage has a section called “ChefFermin’s Corner”, listing tapas recipesby product. Navarrico in Navarre hasa recipe for Peach tart on its website,and even the official ConferencePears of El Bierzo site is repletewith recipes using fresh andpreserved pears. Taking this one stepfurther, the Conservas Calanda

(Teruel) webpage has a section inEnglish called “Curiosities”, whichprovides a detailed history ofeach product, cooking tips andculinary suggestions.

Peachy TeruelConservas Calanda is located on theopposite side of Spain, in theprovince of Teruel in theAutonomous Community ofAragón. Together with neighboringNavarre and La Rioja, Aragón is thesecond-largest producer ofvegetable and fruit preserves inSpain. According to the FNACV,some 79,900,000 tons of peachpreserves are produced nationwideevery year, by far the largest amountfor any fruit. Here in Teruel, theirpeaches really steal the show. Theseare the famed Melocotones de Calanda(Calanda peaches), the sweet andmeaty Amarillo tardío variety that isso valued for its fragrance,crispness and creamy yellow tone,


such company is Cofrusa, whichattests to being the largest fruit andvegetable preserves company inSpain. Founded in 1968, in 2008Cofrusa launched its first line ofgourmet products consisting ofpeaches in brandy, a selection of fivefruits in rum, and cherries withKirsch. According to the company’sMarketing Director, Ana Cebolla,“It is very important to innovate ona continual basis and to keeplaunching new products in themarketplace. In response to thesechanging consumer trends, wehave developed a new line of highadded-value products to addressthe needs of today’s consumers.”This confidence is shared by thecompany Bravo Lozano, although thesimilarities end here. Bravo Lozano, asmall, family-run company located inthe region of Jumilla, is dedicated togrowing peaches, apricots, pears andthe noble Monastrell grapes used formaking the regional red wine. In thisextremely arid region, the company

74 75

FOODBASICS

that its special traits are protectedby a PDO. These peaches can onlybe cultivated in the southeastEbro River Valley between theprovinces of Teruel and Zaragoza,and the fruit makes its grandentrance from the 15th of Septemberto the end of October.Calanda peaches are a gastronomictradition (Spain Gourmetour No. 60),with mentions all the way back tothe Middle Ages. Every summer,during the months of June and July,the peaches are individuallywrapped in paraffin-coated paperbags while still on the tree. Eachpeach is literally kept under wrapsfor a minimum of nine weeks,during which it is protected fromdisease and climatic mishaps. Oncepicked, they are placed immediatelyin cold storage and then packagedor processed locally. In general, mostfruits lose their PDO when they areconverted into preserves since theiressential characteristics change.However, Calanda peaches in either

syrup or wine are such an institutionin this area that they are allowed tokeep their PDO, providing that theyadhere to certain parameters.According to Ismael Conesa Sanz,the Director of Conservas Calanda,who sells this and other gourmetpreserves under the brand ISMAEL,“It is highly important in themarketplace that a quality productbe accompanied by a Designation ofOrigin seal, and (outside of Spain)our job is to promote the ProtectedDesignation of Origin CalandaPeaches, given that it is a productthat is treated in a manner socompletely different from any otherpeach on the market.”Conservas Calanda has a variety ofother gourmet fruit preserves, suchas pears in syrup or wine, andprunes in brandy; all are made withthe utmost care and using naturaland locally-produced ingredients.Even so, the products made fromPDO Calanda Peaches offer the mostvaried selection, including whole

and half peaches in syrup or wine,dried peaches, and a unique productof dried peaches preserved in a localred Tempranillo wine. Thesepreserves are great in stews, withduck magret or as dessert. Like JoséManuel Sernández, Ismael ConesaSanz believes that tradition andinnovation go hand in hand: “Thesecrets of quality Spanish productscome to us from generations past.What we are trying to do today is toimprove the presentation andpreparation standards of productsthrough research to guarantee theirquality and safety.”Conservas Calanda is currently on amission to expand its export market,in part through participation in bothnational and international fairs suchas the bi-annual Alimentaria inBarcelona in 2008 and 2010, and the2007 London Food and Drink Event(IFE). The fairs allow companies toshowcase their products forimporters and distributors from allover the world. Currently, Conservas

FRUIT PRESERVES

Calanda’s fruit preserves areexported to Italy, Belgium, Germanyand the UK, accounting for around2% of the company’s total sales.Ismael Conesa Sanz believes thatthis number will grow: “Spanishproducts are being positioned in thefinest stores and restaurantsthroughout the world. In Spain,we have a great gastronomictradition and a large variety ofproducts of the very highest quality.”

Mighty MurciaWhat sets Murcia apart the most interms of fruit preserves is neitherartisanal tradition nor Designationsof Origin—which is not to say that itdoes not possess these as well.Murcia’s strength lies in the sheervolume of its production, thetechnology that it has developed todeal with an arid Mediterraneanclimate, and its strong exportmarket. The canning industry inMurcia did not take off until well

into the 20th century. According tothe Murcia Instituto de Fomento(Institute of Development), theregion is currently the largestproducer of fruit and vegetablepreserves in Spain, and its productsaccount for 50% of all Spanishconservas. Its fruit productionconsists primarily of lemons,peaches, apricots and oranges,of which 40% are transformedinto preserves. Murcia is the thirdregion in Spain in terms ofagricultural exports, and 65%of all fruit is exported.Again, these numbers refer to thefruit preserve industry as a whole,and do not distinguish betweenartisanal gourmet preserves and themuch more common canned fruits insyrup that are produced andexported in huge quantities. At firstglance the gourmet products do notseem nearly as prominent in Murciaas they do in other regions. However,this is a gap in the market thatcompanies seem eager to fill. One


76

follows traditional cultivationmethods while using newtechnologies to implement strictwater controls and otherenvironmental measures. Anotherinnovative move came in 2009, whenBravo Lozano launched its first andonly line of fruit preserves, anartisanal product made from Jumillapears, whose high quality and specialcharacteristics are protected underthe Protected Designation of OriginJumilla Pears. These Ercolini varietypears have been traced back to the16th century, and are described bythe owner, José Antonio Bravo, asbeing slightly small, crunchy, andextremely aromatic. Although thepears lose the official DO status upontheir transformation into preserves,their unique characteristics still comethrough in the final product wherethey are preserved in local organicMonastrell wine with sugar,cinnamon, and natural lemon juice.Despite the differences between thesetwo Murcian companies, both professa positive outlook on the gourmetfruit preserves industry and adedication to innovative products.This is a trend that the province ofMurcia is working hard to encouragethrough institutions such as theCentro Tecnólogico Nacional de laConserva y la Alimentación deMurcia (National TechnologicalCenter for Preserves and Food, CTC),whose purpose, according toFrancisco José Gálvez Caravaca of the

Center’s Communications Officefor Investigative Results (OTRI),is to “promote innovation andcompetitiveness in the food andagricultural sector through scientifictesting by their next generationtechnological department, andinformation exchange by the OTRI,which keeps the industry informedof scientific and technologicaladvances.” Essentially, they providethe agricultural sector with the toolsthat it needs to develop its business.As José Antonio Bravo explains, heturned to the CTC for help indeveloping different “recipes” andpreparation methods when preparinghis company’s new product. Otherservices provided by the Centerinclude: technological consulting,fairs, patent information, educationalopportunities, and helpingcompanies comply with internationalquality requirements such as theBritish Retail Consortium (BRC),ISO 9001 Quality ManagementStandard and rules of the US Foodand Drug Administration (FDA).Essential to exporting, these qualitystandards are recognized all over theworld and serve to protect both thecompany and the consumer.

Preserving thefutureThe gourmet fruit preservesindustry in Spain is increasingly

vibrant, especially when it comes toexporting. In 2009, approximately241.6 million euros worth of fruitpreserves were exported, up 4.3%from the year before, according todata provided by the InstitutoEspañol de Comercio Exterior,ICEX (Spanish Institute for ForeignTrade). And despite regionaldifferences ranging from aestheticpresentations, to types of fruit orselected preparation methods,all producers have a stronginterest in expanding the exportside of the business.Artisanal craftsmanship, organicallygrown fruit, and respect for thetraditions of the past have allowedthese specialty products to maintaintheir place of pride in Spain’scelebrated gastronomy. Innovativerecipes and preparation styles, anda growing appreciation for theseproducts abroad also insure thatSpain will continue to share itstreasured conservas with the restof the world.

Adrienne Smith is a sommelier, chefand freelance writer. She has spentthe last decade eating and drinking herway through Spain.

We would like to thank De lo Nuestrolo Artesano, Prada a Tope S.A.,Conservas Calanda, Bravo Lozano,Conservas Rosara, ConservasArtesanas El Navarrico and Cofrusa.

FRUIT PRESERVES

FOODBASICS



Known in gastronomic circles as an “ecochef”, Oriol Rovira (1974) is aCatalonian restaurateur who believes in self-sufficiency. His restaurant, ElsCasals, lies at the center of a farm covering about 250 ha (618 acres) in thefoothills of the Pyrenees, in the Barcelona district of Berguedà. The farm growsfruit and vegetables and breeds poultry and pigs, and mushrooms and trufflescan be gathered in the nearby woods, all of which are then served at therestaurant. Rovira calls his philosophy “Closing Circles”, because Els Casalssees the process through from start to finish: from planting the seeds to servingthe customers. His team, made up of his siblings—Carme, Miquel, Jordi andLluis—and his wife, Marta, watch over the agricultural activities that he needsfor his gastronomic creations. He insists that, whenever possible, the ingredientshe uses should come from his farm: pumpkins, eggplant, beans, peppers,potatoes, peas, onions. Of the six tomato varieties they grow, the fleshyMontserrat (Spain Gourmetour No. 77) takes pride of place. And Els Casalsbreeds four pig varieties as well as select poultry such as capon. While top-class products form the basis of his cuisine, creativity and innovation are alsoprime concerns for this chef. The wines suggested here were recommendedby the restaurant’s sommelier, David Gomis, and by Oriol Rovira himself.

IntroductionMaría Moneo/©ICEX

Photos, introductionTomás Zarza/©ICEX

Photos, recipesToya Legido/©ICEX

TranslationJenny McDonald/©ICEX

08517 Sagàs (Berguedà) Barcelona. Tel.: (+34) 938 251 200 www.hotelelscasals.com, [email protected]

RestaurantEls Casals

RECIPES08 AF_RECETAS_1.qxd 23/7/10 12:51 Página 78

67

lush green vineyards. The entirevalley seems to bustle with warblingbirds and buzzing bees. In the townof Carracedelo, the floor of the smallcanning factory at De lo NuestroArtesano is all but deserted and themachines are silent. This family-owned company grows all of its ownfruit, and while it’s still on the trees,José Manuel Sernández, theTechnical and Quality ControlDirector, can be found outsidechecking on the cherry, fig or pearorchards, or looking over plans forthe new organic quince plantation.José Manuel knows that the secret toproducing great conservas is the carehe takes throughout the creativeprocess. What goes on in the factoryis only the final step.The region of El Bierzo is locatedabout 100 km (62 mi) west of thecity of León in the province of thesame name. This leafy valley issurrounded by mountains that createa temperate microclimate in whichfruit trees abound and, according tolocals, their fruit develops a specialconcentrated fragrance unique tothis area. Of particular note here arethe Protected Designation of Origin(PDO) Reineta apples, Conference

pears, Napoleon cherries, and thesmall and flavorful El Bierzochestnuts. The latter wereintroduced by the Romans at thehistoric Las Médulas gold mines (aUNESCO World Heritage Site) andwere used there as food for the slaveminers. This region was also the siteof the country’s first artisanalpreserving industry, founded in1818. In El Bierzo, preserving fruit isa tradition handed down throughgenerations, along with thecorresponding secret family recipes.Even the most common technique ofpreserving fruits in a sugar-watersyrup, known in Spain as almíbar,can vary greatly from one recipe tothe next depending on theproportions used.El Bierzo is not one of the largestfruit producing regions in Spain, butis known for the quality of itsproduce. Country-wide, most of thepears used to make the 13,345,000tons of pear preserves produced in2009, came from Catalonia, Aragónor La Rioja; according to dataprovided by the FNACV. However, asJosé Manuel Sernández points out,the Conference pears from El Bierzosell for 20-25 cents a kilo (2.2 lb)

more than their counterparts grownin other areas. The exceptional pearsgrown here are also protected by aMarca de Garantía, or QualityGuarantee, given by the AsociaciónBerciana de Agricultores (El BierzoAgricultural Association).To prepare their whole pearpreserves in red wine and honey, thepears are hand peeled and bottled inwine made from the local Mencíagrape. The honey, also bottled aloneor with walnuts, is harvested on-siteevery year. In spring, bees pollinatethe mountain heather before beingmoved down to the orchards whenthe apple and pear trees areblooming. The result is a honeyof unusual color and aroma and akey ingredient of the distinctivepear preserves.Other traditional products includethe delicious El Bierzo chestnuts,either roasted or bottled in brandy,water or syrup, and Napoleoncherries. Like all of the other fruit insyrup, the cherries are cooked at alower temperature to preserve theirnatural qualities, and then steeped ineither orujo (a distilled beverage fromthe remains of grapes after pressingthem) or whiskey. According to

66

Preserving fruits such as grapes andfigs through drying or soaking inhoney, vinegar or alcohol has beenpracticed on the Iberian Peninsulasince pre-Roman times. Anothertraditional technique consisted ofcoating fruit in beeswax or resin andburying or storing it in caves toprevent spoilage. While many ofthese methods are still used today,the most common preservationpractices involve the hermeticcanning technique developed byFrenchman Nicolas François Appertin the late 18th century. Appert’sexperiments with preserving food inglass jars paid off in the early 19th

century when he won an awardoffered by the French government toanyone who could devise a way topreserve foodstuffs for Napoleon’sarmies. His method involved placingfood in glass containers that weresealed with wax and a cork stopperand then boiled in a type of pressurecooker. Although a thoroughunderstanding of why this techniqueprevented spoilage would have towait another 50 years for LouisPasteur’s research on microbes andfood sterilization, Appert’s processquickly spread to Spain and the rest

of the world, where it was graduallyrefined for industrial use as newtechnologies came into play.On both an industrial and domesticlevel, food preservation provided away to make seasonal and surplusfood available throughout the year.And while the technology ofcontainers has changed, the artisanalpreparation of today’s gourmet fruitpreserves has remained virtuallyunaltered since the process was firstdiscovered. While these productsform an integral part of Spain’s longgastronomic tradition, they alsoappeal to the culinary avant-gardeand a growing export market. Forthis reason, the companies that makethem not only honor historic andartisanal traditions, but also pursuenew and original ideas that allow theindustry to evolve and grow, bothlocally and internationally.Despite their hallowed place inSpanish gastronomy, it is difficult togauge the commercial value of thesespecialty gourmet products. Theyrepresent only a small niche inSpain’s massive canned fruit industrywhich, according to the FederaciónNacional de Asociaciones de laIndustria de Conservas Vegetales

(National Federation of Associationsfrom the Fruit and VegetablePreserves Industry, FNACV),accounts for 35% of the 1.5 billiontons of vegetable preserves (fruit,vegetables, jams, tomato preserves)produced annually. The gourmetconservas market varies by region,and areas that produce the most fruitor even fruit preserves do notnecessarily have the greatest varietyof gourmet products. However, someloose generalizations can be madeabout certain areas based on thetypes of companies found there.Three examples bear mentioning:El Bierzo, in the northwest, whichhas a long and historic tradition ofmaking artisanal fruit preserves;Teruel, in the northeast, a provincewhose fruit preserves center on itsfamous peaches; and southeasternMurcia, one of Spain’s major fruitproducing provinces, where newgourmet lines demonstrateconfidence in the market’s future.

Bountiful El BierzoIt’s springtime in El Bierzo, and therust-colored hillsides are dotted withbright purple brezo (heather) and

FRUIT PRESERVES

FOODBASICS



Known in gastronomic circles as an “ecochef”, Oriol Rovira (1974) is aCatalonian restaurateur who believes in self-sufficiency. His restaurant, ElsCasals, lies at the center of a farm covering about 250 ha (618 acres) in thefoothills of the Pyrenees, in the Barcelona district of Berguedà. The farm growsfruit and vegetables and breeds poultry and pigs, and mushrooms and trufflescan be gathered in the nearby woods, all of which are then served at therestaurant. Rovira calls his philosophy “Closing Circles”, because Els Casalssees the process through from start to finish: from planting the seeds to servingthe customers. His team, made up of his siblings—Carme, Miquel, Jordi andLluis—and his wife, Marta, watch over the agricultural activities that he needsfor his gastronomic creations. He insists that, whenever possible, the ingredientshe uses should come from his farm: pumpkins, eggplant, beans, peppers,potatoes, peas, onions. Of the six tomato varieties they grow, the fleshyMontserrat (Spain Gourmetour No. 77) takes pride of place. And Els Casalsbreeds four pig varieties as well as select poultry such as capon. While top-class products form the basis of his cuisine, creativity and innovation are alsoprime concerns for this chef. The wines suggested here were recommendedby the restaurant’s sommelier, David Gomis, and by Oriol Rovira himself.

IntroductionMaría Moneo/©ICEX

Photos, introductionTomás Zarza/©ICEX

Photos, recipesToya Legido/©ICEX

TranslationJenny McDonald/©ICEX

08517 Sagàs (Berguedà) Barcelona. Tel.: (+34) 938 251 200 www.hotelelscasals.com, [email protected]

RestaurantEls Casals

RECIPES08 AF_RECETAS_1.qxd 23/7/10 12:51 Página 78







80

ORGANIC PRODUCTS

We consider beefsteak tomatoes tobe one of the best varieties, and theidea of this recipe is to offer them allyear round; as a result, we make ourown tomato preserve and serve it ina surprising way with vegetables andGillardeau oysters.

SERVES 4A handful of young peas; 8 wild asparagus

spears; 8 young scallions; 8 cauliflower

shoots in vinegar; pea flowers; salt; salt flakes.

For the beefsteak tomato: 4 beefsteak

tomatoes; 1 basil leaf; extra virgin olive oil.

For the Gillardeau oysters: 12 Gillardeau No.

3 oysters; 1 lemon; 8 g / 1/3 oz soy lecithin.

Peas, asparagus and scallionsBlanch and cool the vegetables andadd a little salt.

Beefsteak tomato preserveFirst place the tomatoes in anairtight glass jar and blanch.When cool, remove the skin andseeds and transfer to another glassjar with a basil leaf and a littleextra virgin olive oil. Steam for45 minutes at 90ºC / 194ºF.Leave to cool, then pour off anyliquid and slowly reduce it.

Gillardeau oystersOpen the oysters. Beat the waterfrom the oysters with the lemonjuice and soy lecithin to create anair of oyster and lemon.

To serveFirst plate the tomato withthe cauliflower in vinegar, reducedtomato juice, asparagus, scallions,peas and pea flowers. Then arrangethe oysters on top with the oysterand lemon air, and sprinkle withsalt flakes.

Preparation time30 minutes

Recommended winePda 2009 Picapoll (DO Pla deBages), by Celler Solergibert.The grapes come from old vinesof Picapoll, a variety that had allbut disappeared. After aging inacacia wood, the result is a dry, veryfresh wine that blends well withthe briny and sharp flavors in thisdish as well as with the sweetnessof the tomato.

Beefsteak tomato preserve withGillardeau oysters, peas, asparagus and scallion(Tomate corazón de buey en conserva con ostrasGillardeau, guisantes, espárragos y cebolleta tierna)

08 AF_RECETAS_1.qxd 5/8/10 10:59 Página 80

80

ORGANIC PRODUCTS

















83

RECIPES

82

ORGANIC PRODUCTS

An extremely simple but surprisingdish that makes an excellent amuse-bouche, especially in springtime,when nature offers us thisoutstanding, short-lived mushroom.

SERVES 4200 g / 7 oz St. George’s mushrooms

(Calocybe gambosa); 50 g / 2 oz clover;

100 g / 3 1/2 oz cream; 100 g / 3 1/2 oz

young almonds; salt; extra virgin olive oil;

grey or white pepper.

Beat the cream, add a little saltand the chopped mushrooms(150 g / 5 1/2 oz). Use a spoon toform the mixture into balls andcoat with freshly-sliced mushrooms(50 g / 2 oz).

To servePlate a mushroom-coated ball anddecorate with a few sprigs of cloverand fresh almonds. Dress with a littleolive oil and grey or white pepper.


Recommended wineLa Llopetera 2006 (DO Concade Barberà), by Bodega Escoda-Sanahuja. This is a biodynamicwine, made from Pinot Noir,a variety that is not always easyto grow. Its very special personalityand extreme smoothness allowit to combine to perfection withthe very aromatic mushrooms.The main tasting note is dry hay.

Creamy ball of

St.George’s mushrooms(Bolita cremosa de perrechicos con trébol y almendra tierna)with clover and young almonds


84

ORGANIC PRODUCTS

The tradition and roots of Spanishcuisine come together in this dish.All the main ingredients—eggs,potatoes, sobrasada (sausage paste),and honey—are home-grown.

SERVES 4For the egg: 4 fresh goose eggs; 20 ml /

1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil.

For the potato cream: 750 g / 1 lb 10 oz

potatoes; 350 g / 12 oz butter; sea salt.

Others: 100 g / 3 1/2 oz sobrasada; 4 or 5

cubes quince paste; sprigs of chervil; honey.

For the eggPour a little oil into a small, deep,non-stick pan and heat until itsmokes. Carefully add the egg andfry until just turning brown.

For the potato creamPeel the potatoes and cut into pieces.Boil until soft, then drain, seasonwith salt and blend. Add butter andbeat until they are the right texture.

To serveArrange some potato cream (in theshape of the egg) and top with theegg. Heat the sobrasada in the ovenand place to one side. On the other,place the cubes of quince paste withthe chervil and honey.

Preparation time20 to 30 minutes

Recommended wineSolergibert Selecció 2000 CabernetSauvignon (DO Pla de Bages), fromCeller Solergibert. This is a powerfulbut balanced wine that retainsfreshness and a touch of acidity.As an old-style wine it makes theperfect partner for both thesobrasada sausage and eggcombination and for the sweetquince and the honey.

Fried goose egg with potato cream,warm sobrasada, and honey(Huevo frito de oca con cremoso de patata,sobrasada tibia y miel)


87

RECIPES

This is a dish we are very excitedabout because we decided to startbreeding these chickens a few yearsago and this recipe is theculmination of a lot of hard work.The flesh has an unmistakable depthand texture. A classic product in anew style.

SERVES 41 poulard; 500 ml / 2 1/6 cups dark chicken

stock; 6 butifarra sausages; 24 young onions;

1 truffle; 100 ml / 3 1/2 oz truffle juice; salt;

pepper.

First cookingSeason the poulard with salt andpepper and place in a vacuum packwith the dark chicken stock andtruffle juice. Close the bag and cookin a steam oven at 73ºC / 163ºF for 7hours and 15 minutes. Remove andprevent further cooking by placingthe bag in a cold bain-marie.

Second cookingTransfer the contents of the bag to analuminum pan, cover and roast inthe oven at 190ºC / 374ºF for about35 minutes. Uncover and leave inthe oven for another 25 minutes at215ºC / 419ºF. Five minutes beforethe end of the cooking period, addthe lightly fried butifarra sausages,the sautéed onions and the truffle in2 mm / 0.07 in dice.

To servePlace the poulard at the center of theplate and add the sautéed onions,butifarra sausages and diced truffle.Dress with the cooking juices.

Preparation time12 hours

Recommended wineIngenius Brut Nature (DO Cava)by Vins I Caves Júlia Bernet. Thisis a top-class Catalonian sparklingwine produced in small quantitiesthat clearly reflects the grapes fromwhich it is made (Xarel·lo, Macabeoand Chardonnay) while keepingany acidity under control. Withits pleasing, light sparkle, it is anideal match for the white poultrymeat and the fats and gelatine ofthe butifarra.

86

ORGANIC PRODUCTS

Twice-cooked home-grown poulardwith butifarra sausage and young onions(Pularda de la casa asada en dos cocciones

con butifarra de matanza y pequeñas cebollas tiernas)


88 89

RECIPES

ORGANIC PRODUCTS

Caramel custard, known inSpanish as flan, is a classic dessertthat comes in a multitude ofversions. Ours is very simple, basedon the best possible ingredients.

Home-made caramel custardwith textured cream(Flan de la casa con natas en texturas)

Preparation time45 minutes (the milk veil ice creamshould be prepared the day before).

Recommended wineCarratell Ranci del Montsant(DO Montsant), by Celler deCapçanes. This sweet wine, madefrom the grapes of old GarnachaNegra vines, is an outstandingfoil for the sweetness and creaminessof the caramel custard.

SERVES 4For the caramel custard: 1 l / 4 1/2 cup

milk; 250 g / 9 oz sugar; 480 g / 1 lb 1 oz

eggs; 70 g / 3 oz egg yolk; rind of one lemon;

rind of one orange; 1 cinnamon stick;

200 g / 7 oz caramel.

For the vanilla cream: 200 g / 7 oz cream;

1 Tahiti vanilla pod.

For the milk veil ice cream: 1.32 kg / 3 lb

milk veil; 2 l / 8 1/2 cup milk; 90 g / 3 1/2 oz

ice cream stabilizer; 190 g / 6 1/2 oz sugar.

Home-made caramel custardAromatize the milk with thecinnamon stick and lemon andorange rinds for about 12 hours.Strain the milk, then mix in thesugar, egg and egg yolk, and beat.Coat a mold with caramel, then pourin the milk and egg mixture. Cook at125ºC / 257ºF for about 40 minutes.

Vanilla creamStart beating the cream.When half done, shave the vanillapod over it, then finish beating.

Milk veil ice creamMix all the ingredients and chillfor about 12 hours, then beat.

To servePlace the caramel custard at thecenter of the plate with a ball ofvanilla cream on one side and a ballof milk veil ice cream on the other.Finish by drizzling with caramel.Top with a crisp.


88 89

RECIPESORGANIC PRODUCTS

Caramel custard, known inSpanish as flan, is a classic dessertthat comes in a multitude ofversions. Ours is very simple, basedon the best possible ingredients.

Home-made caramel custardwith textured cream(Flan de la casa con natas en texturas)

Preparation time45 minutes (the milk veil ice creamshould be prepared the day before).

Recommended wineCarratell Ranci del Montsant(DO Montsant), by Celler deCapçanes. This sweet wine, madefrom the grapes of old GarnachaNegra vines, is an outstandingfoil for the sweetness and creaminessof the caramel custard.

SERVES 4For the caramel custard: 1 l / 4 1/2 cup

milk; 250 g / 9 oz sugar; 480 g / 1 lb 1 oz

eggs; 70 g / 3 oz egg yolk; rind of one lemon;

rind of one orange; 1 cinnamon stick;

200 g / 7 oz caramel.

For the vanilla cream: 200 g / 7 oz cream;

1 Tahiti vanilla pod.

For the milk veil ice cream: 1.32 kg / 3 lb

milk veil; 2 l / 8 1/2 cup milk; 90 g / 3 1/2 oz

ice cream stabilizer; 190 g / 6 1/2 oz sugar.

Home-made caramel custardAromatize the milk with thecinnamon stick and lemon andorange rinds for about 12 hours.Strain the milk, then mix in thesugar, egg and egg yolk, and beat.Coat a mold with caramel, then pourin the milk and egg mixture. Cook at125ºC / 257ºF for about 40 minutes.

Vanilla creamStart beating the cream.When half done, shave the vanillapod over it, then finish beating.

Milk veil ice creamMix all the ingredients and chillfor about 12 hours, then beat.

To servePlace the caramel custard at thecenter of the plate with a ball ofvanilla cream on one side and a ballof milk veil ice cream on the other.Finish by drizzling with caramel.Top with a crisp.


SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2010 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 9190 SEPTEMBER–DECEMBER 2010 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

González ByassPresiding jauntily over Madrid’s Puerta del Sol (the very center of Spain,“kilometer zero” from which its roads radiate) is a figure whose image is indeliblyimprinted on the visual memory of most Spaniards, and many a tourist, too:the trademark of Tío Pepe, the world’s best-selling sherry. The sight is socomfortably familiar that few register the importance of this historic brandand the commercial group to which it belongs. In 2010, González Byasscelebrates the 175th anniversary of its original bodega in Jerez—nearly twocenturies in a business that has combined tradition and innovation in equalmeasure. Pedro Rebuelta, the group’s current vice-president, belongs to thefifth generation of the González Byass family, which is still very much involvedin the everyday running of the bodega. We have an appointment in his officein Jerez de la Frontera, with its close-up view of the city’s 12th century Arabfortress, the Alcázar.

THE NICEST TRADE

TextAlmudena Martín Rueda/©ICEX

TranslationHawys Pritchard/©ICEX

PhotosGonzález Byass

09 AF_ING EMPRESAS_2.qxd 5/8/10 11:03 Página 90

93

TrademarkGonzález Byass’s product range islarge, but the firm applies a clearlydefined strategy that entails endowingeach product with its own personality,working closely with its distributorsand, of course, exercising qualitycontrol. “Quality is an absolute must;there’s no excuse for making poor winenowadays. But though quality is a keyelement, the fundamental one ispersonality. In a market where the offeris so huge, the products that succeedare those that possess and are able totransmit personality.” Tío Pepe meetsboth those criteria. Any “creative team”would be proud to have dreamed upsuch a memorable brand name but, yetagain, we have the company founderto thank for Tío Pepe. Manuel MaríaGonzález, who was apparently no wineexpert, relied heavily on the advice ofhis uncle, José María Ángel Vargas,when selecting wines and in mattersconcerning production. As a gesture ofgratitude, Manuel María dedicated thewinery’s first solera (the tier of casksfrom which sherry is extracted) to histío Pepe (Pepe is a diminutive of José;the name means “Uncle Joe”) andregistered the name as a brand,creating what would eventually

become an iconic Spanish trademark.“Wherever you go in the world—Madrid, London, Paris, Buenos Aires,Hong Kong—you’re sure to find TíoPepe. That’s really what our work is allabout,” declares Pedro.The Tío Pepe trademark has certainlyworked hard for González Byass since1935, when it was elevated from soleradesignation to (eventually) iconic tradename. Today, it is the flag the companyflies when approaching newinternational markets. “We generallyuse sherry, Tío Pepe, as our passport.It opens doors for us, and we thenfollow through with our full rangeof products.”

DiversificationHaving started off in the 19th centuryspecializing in sherry, González Byassspent most of the 20th developing thebrandy market, until the 1980s, whenit started to diversify “…though notstraying too far from what we are goodat, which is making and selling wine,”explains Pedro. This new phase waslaunched in 1982 with the purchase ofa winery in DOCa Rioja (BodegasBeronia), followed by another, a yearlater, in DO Cava (Cavas Vilarnau).The company’s sights were set on

becoming the definitive supplier ofSpanish wines: “Those acquisitions putus in the position of owning sources ofthe three great wine types for whichSpain is famous: sherry, cava andrioja.” The start of the 21st century

92

Historic sites always make me feelinsignificant and ill-informed, and theimposing walls of the González Byasswinery, witnesses to radical changes inthe course of their existence yet stillimpassively true to their origins, exertthe usual effect. Equally imposing isthe fact that this long-establishedwinery is still run by the Gonzálezfamily, the fifth generation of which iscurrently at the helm. They have beentrailblazers right from the start: theyinstalled the first electric lighting inJerez, illuminating the part of townwhere the bodega stands and creatingan effect that must have been quitesomething back in 1888. Thiscombination of commitment to adeeply traditional product with aninstinctively innovative approach(clearly a genetic feature in this family)has been instrumental in shaping andsustaining one of the biggest wine-producing groups in Spain. Of all theimpressive innovations introduced inthe course of the bodega’s long history,I single out its setting up in the mid-20th century of the first privateoenological research center (theCIDIMA, which literally spells outQuality, Research, Development,Innovation and the Environment) inthe wake of a visit to Davis Universityin California by Mauricio González.“My uncle persuaded the family to setup a center for wine research when hegot back to Spain,” explains PedroRebuelta, “and it has served as thewinery’s research and quality controlcenter ever since. At first the researchwas limited to sherries only, but overtime its brief was extended tomonitoring and improving our entire

range of wines. We consider its role tobe hugely important: we have a greatrespect for history and are firmbelievers in tradition, but we are alsocommitted to innovation.”The González Byass bodega wasfounded in 1835, shortly after thedissolution of the vintners’ guilds, withtheir restrictive requirement that vinegrowing, winemaking and exportingbe conducted by separate entities.Manuel María González, a young bankworker from Cádiz, found himselfdrawn to the wine trade, in which hedetected a certain grandeur (as,indeed, I do myself). He says as muchin a letter written to his mother at thetime: “The wine trade is the nicesttrade I know, and I intend to devotethe rest of my life to it.” He went on tolay the foundations of what wouldprove to be one of Spain’s mostenduring family-owned wine groups.“And that wasn’t all,” relates Pedro

with obvious pride. “He did things insuch a way that, five generations later,not only are we still dedicated to thebusiness as a family, but we are stillpursuing the same quality goals andtaking our wines onward and upward.”Manuel María González showed clarityof vision from the start, deciding thatthe export market was the one toconcentrate on for sherry. Indeed, inthe very year that the winery wasfounded, it shipped its first ten casksto England. Very soon after, Gonzálezhad agreed distribution terms with oneof England’s leading business familiesat that period, the Byass family (in1855 they became part of the bodega,remaining shareholders for 133 years).Pedro, who was the winery’s exportmanager for many years, shares thesame uncluttered sense of purpose.There is respect in his tone when hetells me: “…the international markethas always been particularly importantfor us. For example, just 20 years afterit was founded, our bodega wasalready the biggest exporter in Jerez. Inthe 1860s, González Byass’s foreignsales represented 2% of Spain’s totalexports.” Both Spain and GonzálezByass have changed a lot since then,but as far as the winery is concerned,the export market is still the bedrockof its business. “At present, our salesare 50% domestic and 50% foreign,but we aim over the next 10 to 15years to bring that export portion upto 70%. There’s a wide world beyondSpain, and those foreign markets arewhere we’ll find opportunities forgrowth—creating products to matchtheir demands, investing in differentmarkets and fostering them...”

GONZÁLEZ BYASS

González Byass

· Workforce523 on average

· Gross turnover 2009160 million euros

· Export quota50%

· ProductsDO Jerez, DOCa Rioja, DO Cava,DO Penedès, Tierra de Castilla,Tierra de Cádiz wines; brandies,anisettes, liqueurs and spiritdrinks.

· Websitewww.gonzalezbyass.com(English, Spanish)

09 AF_ING EMPRESAS_2.qxd _MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 26/07/10 14:53 Página 92

saw them move into a seconddiversification phase, this time intonew generation locations andproducts. They bought a 50 ha (123acre) estate in nearby Arcos de laFrontera and planted it with CabernetSauvignon and Syrah vines. “Manypeople were of the opinion that itwasn’t a suitable area for growing redvarieties, but reds certainly feature inthe archives from the early years of the20th century. We brought out a top-quality wine, Finca Moncloa, and arevery pleased with it.” I’ve had occasionto taste this Andalusian red myself andwas frankly astonished to find suchfinesse and freshness in a red wineproduced in this part of the country.Diversification continued in 2006,when work began on building a newwinery, Finca Constancia, surroundedby 270 ha (667 acres) of land in Toledoprovince (central Spain) which theyhad bought five years earlier. “FincaConstancia is geared to producing newgeneration, fruit-led wines that aremore in tune with the internationalmarketplace.” The Vinos de la Tierra deCastilla range produced at the newwinery consists of two very well-conceived lines: an introductory line—Altozano—made up of young,

straightforwardly fruity wines, and apremium line—Finca Constancia—ofmore complex wines in which fruit andwood work well together, and whichshows potential as a vino de pago (estatewine) in the not-too-distant future. Thecompany’s acquisition in 2008 of high-profile Viñas del Vero, DO Somontano’sproductive field leader, furtherendorsed González Byass’s commitmentto Spanish winemaking at its mostmodern. Pedro is notably downrightwhen he declares that the company’saim with regard to foreign markets is“to become the supplier of Spanishwine, so that when a foreign importerdecides he wants wines from Spain, heautomatically turns to González Byass.”He goes on to explain: “That’s why ouroutput is made up of brands with acharacter of their own: we invest effortin endowing each winery with its ownpersonality. There’s no reason whyconsumers should know that thevarious wineries all belong to the samegroup, though it is important that thetrade does.”

Consumer contactGonzález Byass products have apresence in over 100 countries, mostlyachieved through importers. This must

94 95

GONZÁLEZ BYASS

surely make it difficult to make anysort contact with the end consumer.The company’s strategy is forGonzález Byass staff to work directlywith their importers and distributorsabroad, collaborating with them onpromotional events wherever in theworld they have a presence. “In theend, it all boils down to adapting tothe market in question and supplyingproducts that consumers like. That’swhat makes it so important to get asclose to our consumers as possible.”They have a subsidiary company intheir principal market, the UK, and inMexico, where Lepanto brandy and,above all, Soberano sell very well. “It’sa very traditional market for Spain,mainly for brandy, though wineconsumption is increasing in Mexico.Chinchón anisette is also a big hitthere.” This last piece of informationtakes me completely by surprise, andI admit rather shamefacedly that Ihave always thought of Chinchón asbeing strictly local to the area itcomes from (the village of the samename, not far from Madrid), the sortof thing that people drink as theywhile away the afternoon in theterrazas on its picturesque PlazaMayor. The group also has its own

sales force in both the UK and Mexicoso that it can deal directly with itscustomers and establish rapport withthem. Meanwhile, it is honing in ontwo potentially huge markets—Chinaand the US—and has set upmarketing offices (in Shanghai andNew York, respectively), again with aview to achieving closer consumercontact. “We have our own staffthere, and the fact that they are indirect touch with the distributormeans that we can respond muchmore nimbly to market requirements.It involves collaborating with theimporter and distributor in variousactivities, mainly PR and meet-the-customer events… In other words,we are involved in the market athands-on level.”Oenotourism, originally introduced asa PR gesture aimed at end consumers,has gradually evolved into a businessfacet of González Byass in its ownright, becoming so successful that theJerez winery is currently one of themost visited wineries in the world. Imade the most of my professionalvisit there to play the tourist game ofspotting famous autographs (StevenSpielberg, Fernando Alonso…)among those on the hundreds of

barrels that make up the winery’sstocks. Like most wineries in Jerez,González Byass has been welcomingtourists for decades. However, in1992, the year the UniversalExposition was held in Seville (90 km/ 55.9 mi from Jerez), realizing what acrowd-puller the event was sure tobe, the family took a strategicdecision and started charging anentrance fee. “Consumers pay moreattention to something that they’vepaid for. We set a price for the visit,and doing so made it incumbentupon us to improve the experience.We had to adapt and modernize thepremises and spend a bit of money,but the consequence was that ourvisitor numbers went up from 20,000to 250,000 a year. It’s run as aseparate business, but it’s also closelyallied to our marketing departmentbecause of its role in communicatingproduct image: one has to makeabsolutely sure that the image itpresents is a positive one and is intune with brand strategy.” On thestrength of the success of this venturein Jerez, the company is extending itto the group’s other wineries. FincaConstancia and Cavas Vilarnau alreadyhave oenotourism departments, while

at Viñas del Vero an equivalentprogram put in place by the previousowners has been retained. BodegasBeronia is next in line.González Byass’s motto for thisanniversary year is “175 años mirandoal futuro” (175 years looking to thefuture), a tribute to the visionaryqualities of its founder, Manuel MaríaGonzález, and to the subsequentgenerations of a remarkable familywhose entrepreneurial spirit andinnovative drive have built up hissherry exporting business into theGonzález Byass Group: one of Spain’sbiggest producers of wines, brandiesand spirits. And it’s still growing.With new markets waiting to beconquered, Tío Pepe won’t behanging up his hat just yet.

Almudena Martín Rueda washead of foreign market promotionalactivities for one of Spain’s WineDesignations of Origin for seven yearsbefore joining Spain Gourmetour,where she has been editorial coordinatorfor the last three years.


83

RECIPES

82

ORGANIC PRODUCTS

An extremely simple but surprisingdish that makes an excellent amuse-bouche, especially in springtime,when nature offers us thisoutstanding, short-lived mushroom.

SERVES 4200 g / 7 oz St. George’s mushrooms

(Calocybe gambosa); 50 g / 2 oz clover;

100 g / 3 1/2 oz cream; 100 g / 3 1/2 oz

young almonds; salt; extra virgin olive oil;

grey or white pepper.

Beat the cream, add a little saltand the chopped mushrooms(150 g / 5 1/2 oz). Use a spoon toform the mixture into balls andcoat with freshly-sliced mushrooms(50 g / 2 oz).

To servePlate a mushroom-coated ball anddecorate with a few sprigs of cloverand fresh almonds. Dress with a littleolive oil and grey or white pepper.


Recommended wineLa Llopetera 2006 (DO Concade Barberà), by Bodega Escoda-Sanahuja. This is a biodynamicwine, made from Pinot Noir,a variety that is not always easyto grow. Its very special personalityand extreme smoothness allowit to combine to perfection withthe very aromatic mushrooms.The main tasting note is dry hay.

Creamy ball of

St.George’s mushrooms(Bolita cremosa de perrechicos con trébol y almendra tierna)with clover and young almonds


saw them move into a seconddiversification phase, this time intonew generation locations andproducts. They bought a 50 ha (123acre) estate in nearby Arcos de laFrontera and planted it with CabernetSauvignon and Syrah vines. “Manypeople were of the opinion that itwasn’t a suitable area for growing redvarieties, but reds certainly feature inthe archives from the early years of the20th century. We brought out a top-quality wine, Finca Moncloa, and arevery pleased with it.” I’ve had occasionto taste this Andalusian red myself andwas frankly astonished to find suchfinesse and freshness in a red wineproduced in this part of the country.Diversification continued in 2006,when work began on building a newwinery, Finca Constancia, surroundedby 270 ha (667 acres) of land in Toledoprovince (central Spain) which theyhad bought five years earlier. “FincaConstancia is geared to producing newgeneration, fruit-led wines that aremore in tune with the internationalmarketplace.” The Vinos de la Tierra deCastilla range produced at the newwinery consists of two very well-conceived lines: an introductory line—Altozano—made up of young,

straightforwardly fruity wines, and apremium line—Finca Constancia—ofmore complex wines in which fruit andwood work well together, and whichshows potential as a vino de pago (estatewine) in the not-too-distant future. Thecompany’s acquisition in 2008 of high-profile Viñas del Vero, DO Somontano’sproductive field leader, furtherendorsed González Byass’s commitmentto Spanish winemaking at its mostmodern. Pedro is notably downrightwhen he declares that the company’saim with regard to foreign markets is“to become the supplier of Spanishwine, so that when a foreign importerdecides he wants wines from Spain, heautomatically turns to González Byass.”He goes on to explain: “That’s why ouroutput is made up of brands with acharacter of their own: we invest effortin endowing each winery with its ownpersonality. There’s no reason whyconsumers should know that thevarious wineries all belong to the samegroup, though it is important that thetrade does.”

Consumer contactGonzález Byass products have apresence in over 100 countries, mostlyachieved through importers. This must

94 95

GONZÁLEZ BYASS

surely make it difficult to make anysort contact with the end consumer.The company’s strategy is forGonzález Byass staff to work directlywith their importers and distributorsabroad, collaborating with them onpromotional events wherever in theworld they have a presence. “In theend, it all boils down to adapting tothe market in question and supplyingproducts that consumers like. That’swhat makes it so important to get asclose to our consumers as possible.”They have a subsidiary company intheir principal market, the UK, and inMexico, where Lepanto brandy and,above all, Soberano sell very well. “It’sa very traditional market for Spain,mainly for brandy, though wineconsumption is increasing in Mexico.Chinchón anisette is also a big hitthere.” This last piece of informationtakes me completely by surprise, andI admit rather shamefacedly that Ihave always thought of Chinchón asbeing strictly local to the area itcomes from (the village of the samename, not far from Madrid), the sortof thing that people drink as theywhile away the afternoon in theterrazas on its picturesque PlazaMayor. The group also has its own

sales force in both the UK and Mexicoso that it can deal directly with itscustomers and establish rapport withthem. Meanwhile, it is honing in ontwo potentially huge markets—Chinaand the US—and has set upmarketing offices (in Shanghai andNew York, respectively), again with aview to achieving closer consumercontact. “We have our own staffthere, and the fact that they are indirect touch with the distributormeans that we can respond muchmore nimbly to market requirements.It involves collaborating with theimporter and distributor in variousactivities, mainly PR and meet-the-customer events… In other words,we are involved in the market athands-on level.”Oenotourism, originally introduced asa PR gesture aimed at end consumers,has gradually evolved into a businessfacet of González Byass in its ownright, becoming so successful that theJerez winery is currently one of themost visited wineries in the world. Imade the most of my professionalvisit there to play the tourist game ofspotting famous autographs (StevenSpielberg, Fernando Alonso…)among those on the hundreds of

barrels that make up the winery’sstocks. Like most wineries in Jerez,González Byass has been welcomingtourists for decades. However, in1992, the year the UniversalExposition was held in Seville (90 km/ 55.9 mi from Jerez), realizing what acrowd-puller the event was sure tobe, the family took a strategicdecision and started charging anentrance fee. “Consumers pay moreattention to something that they’vepaid for. We set a price for the visit,and doing so made it incumbentupon us to improve the experience.We had to adapt and modernize thepremises and spend a bit of money,but the consequence was that ourvisitor numbers went up from 20,000to 250,000 a year. It’s run as aseparate business, but it’s also closelyallied to our marketing departmentbecause of its role in communicatingproduct image: one has to makeabsolutely sure that the image itpresents is a positive one and is intune with brand strategy.” On thestrength of the success of this venturein Jerez, the company is extending itto the group’s other wineries. FincaConstancia and Cavas Vilarnau alreadyhave oenotourism departments, while

at Viñas del Vero an equivalentprogram put in place by the previousowners has been retained. BodegasBeronia is next in line.González Byass’s motto for thisanniversary year is “175 años mirandoal futuro” (175 years looking to thefuture), a tribute to the visionaryqualities of its founder, Manuel MaríaGonzález, and to the subsequentgenerations of a remarkable familywhose entrepreneurial spirit andinnovative drive have built up hissherry exporting business into theGonzález Byass Group: one of Spain’sbiggest producers of wines, brandiesand spirits. And it’s still growing.With new markets waiting to beconquered, Tío Pepe won’t behanging up his hat just yet.

Almudena Martín Rueda washead of foreign market promotionalactivities for one of Spain’s WineDesignations of Origin for seven yearsbefore joining Spain Gourmetour,where she has been editorial coordinatorfor the last three years.



LAST

ING

IMPR

ESSI

ONS

El aceite de olivavirgen extra enla repostería deayer y hoy

(Extra Virgin Olive Oilin Confectionary, Past andPresent) by José Oneto.Spanish.Olive oil, affectionatelyknown as green gold, isincreasingly starring inconfectionary in Spain.Here Oneto presents hisargument that, oftencontrary to popular belief,olive oil should not beused sparingly or withfear, as it is, in fact,perfectly compatible withall kinds of desserts.The 100 recipes containedin this book, which rangefrom classic to modern,are for everyone: industryprofessionals, businessowners, students, anddessert-lovers alike.Try the Crunchy cocoaand oil cake, the Carrotbites, or the Churros.Well? What are youwaiting for? Tie on thatapron, grab the oil, andget cooking!(Aladena Editorial, S.L.www.aladena.com)

Los templosde la tapa

(Tapas Hotspots) bySara Cucala. Spanish.Tapas are hit because theyare a direct reflection ofthe Mediterranean wayof life: healthy; made withfresh products from sea orland; varied; in smallportions; and ideallyenjoyed with companyany time of day. And whileother regions have clearlydefined gastronomicidentities, beyondMadrid’s traditionalcuisine, the region alsostands out for itsoutstanding tapas. HereCucula (literally) mapsout the best tapas jointsin Madrid, along with toppicks from eachrestaurant, recipes, andphotos. From RestauranteRafa in Salamancaneighborhood (try theseafood tapas) to BodegasRicla in Sol (taste thetripe) to Fide in Chamberi(anchovies, mmm!), you’llsee how an extraordinaryculinary experience isright around every cornerin the capital. (RBA Libros,www.rbalibros.com)

Caminandoentre oliveras

(Walking Among OliveTrees) by Firo Vázquez.Spanish.Vázquez, owner and chefof El Olivar restaurant inMoratalla (Murciaprovince), is one of oliveoil’s greatest champions.Beyond his traditionaltraining, he has been ona spiritual journey that hasmade him a true believerin the power of olive oil.Here he shares hispassion. The book ispeppered with quotesfrom the Bible, spiritualleaders, and personalconversations, as wellas beautiful photographs.Vázquez providesinformation on how olivescame to the IberianPeninsula; irrigationand planting of differentvarieties; factors thatinfluence growing, storageand cleaning; importantolive growers; olivesin gastronomy; maps;brands, and more.His selection of recipesincludes Partridge, foieand olive terrine; andFried, smoked olive milk.(Aceites de Moratalla, SL)

Grandes platospara treinta obrasmaestras dela pintura

(Great Recipes Inspired byThirty Works of Art) byFrancesc Miralles. Spanish.This cultural/culinaryproject is the fruit of acollaboration betweenchef Xavier Pellicer and artcritic Francesc Miralles.In this book theyendeavor to bring togethertwo contradictoryelements, the necessary(cuisine) and theunnecessary (art).Miralles selected worksfrom Leonardo da Vinci,Tiziano, Rembrandt andDalí, among others, whichfeature food or dining asprotagonists, and thenchallenged Pellicer tocreate a recipe inspiredby each work.His fantastically creativeresults unfold over 100pages (where the art is artand the food is art) andinclude Oyster croquetteswith lemon tartar sauce,Vanilla quince tatin, andCoffee cream. (Galerada,Serveis d’Edicio I TraduccióS.C.C.L., www.galerada.cat,[email protected])

Puro sabor español

(The Authentic SpanishFlavor) by the Councilof Organic Agriculture ofAndalusia.English, Spanish.This cookbook is acompilation of organicrecipes organized into 17menus representing eachof Spain’s autonomousregions. They’re based ontypical organic productsin each part of the country,fused with the flavorsof local customs, culture,and gastronomy. Therecipes come from toprestaurants and star chefssuch as Quique Dacosta,Martin Berasategui andXosé Torres Cannas.The text also includesa close look at specificorganic products as wellas chef profiles.Fancy the Poached eggwith lobster and vegetablesdrizzled with white truffleoil? Perhaps theMacadamia crumble,berries with ginger androse with prickly pearsorbet is more your style.Whatever suits you best,it’s safe to say that eatingorganic is the new black.(Asociación CAAE,www.caae.es, [email protected])

Madrid Fusión 2010Teatro de las ideas

(Theater of Ideas)English, Spanish.Madrid Fusión is arguablyone of the most importantgastronomic events in theworld, bringing togetherthe industry’s crème de lacrème from every corner ofthe globe for 3 jam-packeddays of seminars, tastings,contests, presentations anddemonstrations. This year’sthemes were culinarysustainability and gastro-economics, and the eventmaintained its ongoing focuson innovative businessmodels and new trends incuisine.This book offers a damngood overview of what wentdown at Madrid Fusión inJanuary. Comprehensive isan understatement.It offers countless recipes,excellent information andspectacular photos. Featuredchefs include WilliamLedeuil, Cheong Liew andThierry Marx, and recipehighlights include Almondand blue cheese tart, Cornishcrab mayo with avocado andsweet corn sorbet, and Oakice cream. (Foro de debate,www.madridfusion.net)

TextSamaraKamenecka/©ICEX

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2010 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 99

The Bookof Tapas

by Simone andInés Ortega. English.It’s hard to keep a secret.Understandably, tapas isone of them, and it lookslike the cat’s out of thebag: the secrets to makinggreat tapas at home arenow within your reach.This book includes morethan 150 recipes, acomprehensive glossaryand excellent photos.The authors’ goal is to“introduce you to theflavors [and] also theculture of tapas”. Missionaccomplished.Each main tapasingredient has a chapter—vegetables, eggs andcheese, fish and meat—which are then separatedinto hot and coldcategories. Frogs’ legswith onions, Rice withanchovies and tuna, andWarm porcini andmushroom salad are justa selection of the top tastebud pleasers. Somethingso good just can’t be keptunder wraps. (Phaidon PressLimited, [email protected])

11 AF ING LIBROS_1.qxd 5/8/10 11:14 Página 98


BOOKS

Arquitectura del vinoBodegas Españolas

(Wine Architecture.Spanish Wineries)by the Spanish RoyalAcademy of Gastronomy.English, Spanish.Spain boasts more than amillion hectares ofvineyards, outstandingwines, and wineries withcutting-edge architecturedesigned by world-renowned architects.This book brings togethertwo (increasingly linked)worlds, wine andarchitecture, with a viewto promoting wine tourismin Spain. Take a trip!Check out unique wineriesdesigned by some of thebest architects in world!Drink some great wine!More than 20 majorwineries are featuredand all the DOs arerepresented. Toprecommendations includeMarqués de Riscal,by Frank Gehry; Ysios,by Santiago Calatrava;and Bodega Señorío deArinzano, by Rafael Moneo.These are, according to theauthors, the “cathedrals”of 21st century.(Lunwerg, SL,[email protected],www.lunwerg.com)

Àbac. La cocina deXavier Pellicer

(Ábac. The Cuisine ofXavier Pellicer) by XavierPellicer. English, Spanish.Leading Spanish chef.Two decades ofexperience. Ownerof Ábac restaurant/hotelcomplex in Barcelonawith two Michelin stars.Pellicer has quite theimpressive resume.Here he offers over 60recipes, which hedescribes as “honest,combining techniquewith emotion”. Here hecelebrates both his teamand his suppliers, whichprovide him with qualityproducts and withoutwhom he wouldn’t bewhere he is today.His book is divided intostarters, fish, meat, anddessert and he offersdetails on everything inbetween, from vinaigrettesand broths to sauces.Deer carpaccio withsmoked foie gras,Potato omelet with truffle,Lobster, honeydew andwatermelon consommé,and Carrots with gingerare just a sample of hisdelicious creations.(RBA Libros,www.rbalibros.com)

Priorat

by various authors.English, Spanish.Priorat is much morethan just a region inCatalonia (northeasternSpain): it’s synonymouswith wine. With a DOCaspanning ninemunicipalities, Priorathas a deep-rooted, world-renowned, distinct wineculture. Aside fromextensive information onregional history, legends,soil characteristics,cooperatives, grapevarieties and bodegas(among other topics), thistext offers an original spin:get to know and, beyondthat, feel Priorat with aphotographic journeyof the region. This bookoffers not only acomprehensive pictureanthology of itslandscapes, people andtraditions—from hillsidesand villages to monasteriesand festivals—but alsoa spectacular up-closelook at its singular winecountry, arguably itsgreatest claim to fame.(Lunwerg, SL,[email protected],www.lunwerg.com)

El productoy su intérprete

(The Product and itsInterpreter) by RafaelAnsón. English, Spanish.Ansón, the Chairman ofSpain’s Royal Academy ofGastronomy, will tell youthat Spanish cuisinefocuses on excellent rawmaterials and is based ona myriad of fine productsthat truly set it apart.In this book he featuresthose products, each inconnection with a top-flight chef and recipe.Francis Paniego writesabout Rioja wine, offeringPotato and trufflecarpaccio. Pepe RodríguezRey goes all saffron withhis Rice with garlic onionand saffron, and ToñoPérez whips up Jertecherries into Valley fruitsoup with cherry sorbet.Each item is also featuredwith background andpurchasing informationand a list of restaurantswhere they enjoy prideof place on the menu.(Ediciones B, S.A.www.edicionesb.com)


80

ORGANIC PRODUCTS


















strongly of San Sebastián (northernSpain), where the best cutting-edgecreations are infused with atraditional spirit. At Bocadillos, manytapas marry high-quality Spanishproducts, such as velvety, 24-month-aged Serrano ham, boquerones (freshanchovies), and pimentón (a type ofpaprika from Spain), with seasonalCalifornia ingredients like favas, wildmushrooms, heirloom tomatoes,sardines, and squid. I could happilyeat the tender grilled Monterey Baysquid with an intense ink sauce andspicy red mojo every day of my life,or the Pacific Rim-influencedsnapper ceviche with Thai chilies andAsian pears. If you come in spring,look for a crisp, refreshing salad ofthinly sliced asparagus, Spanish

ventresca (tuna belly) and almondsmoistened with lemon-miso dressing.You can eat slow or fast; you canhave a snack or make an entiredinner complete with dessert,including the intriguingly namedbrazo gitano (gypsy’s arm) cake withhazelnut mousse. The wine listfrequently changes and features onlySpanish and Californian vintages,with an emphasis on smallerproducers. On the Spanish side,you’ll always find sherries andestablished names from DOCa Riojaor DO Ribera del Duero, but you canoften sample wines from less well-known regions such as DO Sierras deMálaga or DO Montsant.We San Franciscans are fairlyobsessed with our food and

restaurants, so it says a lot that fromthe moment Bocadillos opened in2004, it has continually shown up oncritics’ lists of the city’s bestrestaurants. This marriage of Spainand California, like all goodmarriages, is standing the test of time.

Bocadillos710 Montgomery StreetSan Francisco, California [email protected]

Christopher Hall is a San Franciscojournalist who has covered food and othercultural topics for a variety of USpublications, including The New YorkTimes, Gourmet and Saveur.

SANFRANCISCO

TextChristopher Hall/©ICEX

ChristopherHall from

PhotosBocadillos

96 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2010 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

In the shadow of San Francisco’siconic Transamerica Pyramid, nearly10,000 km (6,213 mi) from Madrid,Bocadillos captures the elusiveessence of a great tapas bar like nospot I know outside Spain. The foodis exceptionally good and the winewell chosen, and, just as important,there’s a relaxed, convivial feel thatpromotes spontaneity. Pop in for aquick drink and bite, and you mayfind yourself lingering for hours overa cazuelita of braised tripe, a glass oftinto (red wine), and conversationwith a newfound friend.Owned by the award-winning(Critics’ Choice Awards, SanFrancisco, 2003) Basque chef,cookbook author, and raconteurGerald Hirigoyen and his wife,

Cameron, Bocadillos occupies thenarrow ground floor of a 19th centurybuilding that survived the 1906earthquake and later was one of thecity’s first gay bars. The interior décorblends clean, contemporary lineswith warm touches of ebonizedwood. Electric votives flicker againsta vibrant tangerine-colored brickwall, and chrome wire chairs line acommunal table. Next to theentrance, like a blessing of welcome,hangs a painting of a lauburu, thecurvilinear Basque cross.A day at Bocadillos follows therhythm of the surrounding district,an eclectic mix of office towers,hotels, and storefront art, antiques,and design businesses. The rustle ofearly morning newspapers gives way

to small business meetings overAmerican-style breakfasts with aSpanish twist, including house-madechorizo (a type of red sausage) witheggs. From midday into theafternoon, a loud crush of hungryworkers on one-hour breaks choosefrom a dozen bocadillos: small, softbuns that might hold anything fromsmoked salmon to warm butifarrasausage with arugula and shaved DOQueso Manchego cheese.Beginning in the evening, as officesand shops close, an exceptionalselection of 30-plus tapas—frompintxos (small snacks), salads, andcheeses, to items that are marinated,fried, or grilled a la plancha—lures a lively and constantly changingcrowd. The food reminds me

Have a SpanishBreak!

10 AF ULT_PAR_san francisco_1.qxd 23/7/10 11:10 Página 96


strongly of San Sebastián (northernSpain), where the best cutting-edgecreations are infused with atraditional spirit. At Bocadillos, manytapas marry high-quality Spanishproducts, such as velvety, 24-month-aged Serrano ham, boquerones (freshanchovies), and pimentón (a type ofpaprika from Spain), with seasonalCalifornia ingredients like favas, wildmushrooms, heirloom tomatoes,sardines, and squid. I could happilyeat the tender grilled Monterey Baysquid with an intense ink sauce andspicy red mojo every day of my life,or the Pacific Rim-influencedsnapper ceviche with Thai chilies andAsian pears. If you come in spring,look for a crisp, refreshing salad ofthinly sliced asparagus, Spanish

ventresca (tuna belly) and almondsmoistened with lemon-miso dressing.You can eat slow or fast; you canhave a snack or make an entiredinner complete with dessert,including the intriguingly namedbrazo gitano (gypsy’s arm) cake withhazelnut mousse. The wine listfrequently changes and features onlySpanish and Californian vintages,with an emphasis on smallerproducers. On the Spanish side,you’ll always find sherries andestablished names from DOCa Riojaor DO Ribera del Duero, but you canoften sample wines from less well-known regions such as DO Sierras deMálaga or DO Montsant.We San Franciscans are fairlyobsessed with our food and

restaurants, so it says a lot that fromthe moment Bocadillos opened in2004, it has continually shown up oncritics’ lists of the city’s bestrestaurants. This marriage of Spainand California, like all goodmarriages, is standing the test of time.

Bocadillos710 Montgomery StreetSan Francisco, California [email protected]

Christopher Hall is a San Franciscojournalist who has covered food and othercultural topics for a variety of USpublications, including The New YorkTimes, Gourmet and Saveur.

SANFRANCISCO

TextChristopher Hall/©ICEX

ChristopherHall from

PhotosBocadillos


In the shadow of San Francisco’siconic Transamerica Pyramid, nearly10,000 km (6,213 mi) from Madrid,Bocadillos captures the elusiveessence of a great tapas bar like nospot I know outside Spain. The foodis exceptionally good and the winewell chosen, and, just as important,there’s a relaxed, convivial feel thatpromotes spontaneity. Pop in for aquick drink and bite, and you mayfind yourself lingering for hours overa cazuelita of braised tripe, a glass oftinto (red wine), and conversationwith a newfound friend.Owned by the award-winning(Critics’ Choice Awards, SanFrancisco, 2003) Basque chef,cookbook author, and raconteurGerald Hirigoyen and his wife,

Cameron, Bocadillos occupies thenarrow ground floor of a 19th centurybuilding that survived the 1906earthquake and later was one of thecity’s first gay bars. The interior décorblends clean, contemporary lineswith warm touches of ebonizedwood. Electric votives flicker againsta vibrant tangerine-colored brickwall, and chrome wire chairs line acommunal table. Next to theentrance, like a blessing of welcome,hangs a painting of a lauburu, thecurvilinear Basque cross.A day at Bocadillos follows therhythm of the surrounding district,an eclectic mix of office towers,hotels, and storefront art, antiques,and design businesses. The rustle ofearly morning newspapers gives way

to small business meetings overAmerican-style breakfasts with aSpanish twist, including house-madechorizo (a type of red sausage) witheggs. From midday into theafternoon, a loud crush of hungryworkers on one-hour breaks choosefrom a dozen bocadillos: small, softbuns that might hold anything fromsmoked salmon to warm butifarrasausage with arugula and shaved DOQueso Manchego cheese.Beginning in the evening, as officesand shops close, an exceptionalselection of 30-plus tapas—frompintxos (small snacks), salads, andcheeses, to items that are marinated,fried, or grilled a la plancha—lures a lively and constantly changingcrowd. The food reminds me

Have a SpanishBreak!

10 AF ULT_PAR_san francisco_1.qxd 23/7/10 11:10 Página 96


LAST

ING

IMPR

ESSI

ONS









Puro sabor español






The Bookof Tapas




BOOKS

Arquitectura del vinoBodegas Españolas

(Wine Architecture.Spanish Wineries)by the Spanish RoyalAcademy of Gastronomy.English, Spanish.Spain boasts more than amillion hectares ofvineyards, outstandingwines, and wineries withcutting-edge architecturedesigned by world-renowned architects.This book brings togethertwo (increasingly linked)worlds, wine andarchitecture, with a viewto promoting wine tourismin Spain. Take a trip!Check out unique wineriesdesigned by some of thebest architects in world!Drink some great wine!More than 20 majorwineries are featuredand all the DOs arerepresented. Toprecommendations includeMarqués de Riscal,by Frank Gehry; Ysios,by Santiago Calatrava;and Bodega Señorío deArinzano, by Rafael Moneo.These are, according to theauthors, the “cathedrals”of 21st century.(Lunwerg, SL,[email protected],www.lunwerg.com)

Àbac. La cocina deXavier Pellicer

(Ábac. The Cuisine ofXavier Pellicer) by XavierPellicer. English, Spanish.Leading Spanish chef.Two decades ofexperience. Ownerof Ábac restaurant/hotelcomplex in Barcelonawith two Michelin stars.Pellicer has quite theimpressive resume.Here he offers over 60recipes, which hedescribes as “honest,combining techniquewith emotion”. Here hecelebrates both his teamand his suppliers, whichprovide him with qualityproducts and withoutwhom he wouldn’t bewhere he is today.His book is divided intostarters, fish, meat, anddessert and he offersdetails on everything inbetween, from vinaigrettesand broths to sauces.Deer carpaccio withsmoked foie gras,Potato omelet with truffle,Lobster, honeydew andwatermelon consommé,and Carrots with gingerare just a sample of hisdelicious creations.(RBA Libros,www.rbalibros.com)

Priorat

by various authors.English, Spanish.Priorat is much morethan just a region inCatalonia (northeasternSpain): it’s synonymouswith wine. With a DOCaspanning ninemunicipalities, Priorathas a deep-rooted, world-renowned, distinct wineculture. Aside fromextensive information onregional history, legends,soil characteristics,cooperatives, grapevarieties and bodegas(among other topics), thistext offers an original spin:get to know and, beyondthat, feel Priorat with aphotographic journeyof the region. This bookoffers not only acomprehensive pictureanthology of itslandscapes, people andtraditions—from hillsidesand villages to monasteriesand festivals—but alsoa spectacular up-closelook at its singular winecountry, arguably itsgreatest claim to fame.(Lunwerg, SL,[email protected],www.lunwerg.com)

El productoy su intérprete

(The Product and itsInterpreter) by RafaelAnsón. English, Spanish.Ansón, the Chairman ofSpain’s Royal Academy ofGastronomy, will tell youthat Spanish cuisinefocuses on excellent rawmaterials and is based ona myriad of fine productsthat truly set it apart.In this book he featuresthose products, each inconnection with a top-flight chef and recipe.Francis Paniego writesabout Rioja wine, offeringPotato and trufflecarpaccio. Pepe RodríguezRey goes all saffron withhis Rice with garlic onionand saffron, and ToñoPérez whips up Jertecherries into Valley fruitsoup with cherry sorbet.Each item is also featuredwith background andpurchasing informationand a list of restaurantswhere they enjoy prideof place on the menu.(Ediciones B, S.A.www.edicionesb.com)


Bodegas Casar de BurbiaTel.: (+34) 987 562 [email protected]: 112

Chocolates ValorTel.: (+34) 965 890 [email protected]: 9

Consorcio del JamónSerrano EspañolTel.: (+34) 917 356 [email protected]: 4

C.R.D.O. La ManchaTel.: (+34) 926 541 [email protected]: 104

D.O.Ca. RiojaTel.: (+34) 941 500 [email protected]: 103

EXCALTel.: (+34) 983 293 [email protected]: 107

Extenda-AgenciaAndaluza de PromociónExteriorTel.: (+34) 902 508 [email protected]: 110

ADIN

DEX

Aceites Borges Pont, S.A.

Tel.: (+34) 973 501 [email protected]: Back cover

Ángel CamachoAlimentación, S.A.(Fragata)

Tel.: (+34) 955 854 [email protected]: 8

Araex – Rioja Alavesa, S.L.– Spanish Fine Wine, S.L.Tel.: (+34) 945 150 [email protected]: Inside front cover

F.J. Sánchez Sucesores,S.A.Tel.: (+34) 950 364 [email protected]: Inside back cover

Foods from SpainPage: 6, 111

González Byass, S.A.(Tio Pepe)Tel.: (+34) 956 357 [email protected]: 11

Grupo GourmetsTel.: (+34) 915 489 [email protected]: 106

Jolca, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 955 029 [email protected]: 10

Junta de ExtremaduraTel.: (+34) 924 010 858www.comercioextremadura.orgPage: 108

Industrial QueseraCuquerellaTel.: (+34) 926 266 [email protected]: 113

Loreto Speciality Foods,S.L.Tel.: (+34) 954 113 [email protected]: 7

Proaliment – JesúsNavarro, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 965 600 [email protected]: 101

Rafael Salgado, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 916 667 [email protected]: 102

Sánchez Romero CarvajalJabugo, S.A. (5 Jotas)Tel.: (+34) 917 283 [email protected]: 105

Verdú Cantó – SaffronSpainTel.: (+34) 965 600 [email protected]: 5

Vinos D.O. NavarraTel.: (+34) 948 741 [email protected]: 115

Wines From Spainwww.winesfromspain.comPage: 109

12 AF_CIERRE_01.qxd 30/7/10 15:07 Página 110

110PANDALUCIA ingles.indd 1 22/7/10 10:48:43

PD

FD

EC

LIE

NT

EC

HE

QU

EA

DO

PO

R

soles_aceitunasmedia_AF 8/7/10 10:41 P gina 1C M Y CM MY CY CMY K

NETHERLANDSTel.: (70) 346 59 [email protected]

NORWAYTel.: (47) 22 83 76 [email protected]

RUSSIATel.: (495) 935 83 [email protected]

SINGAPORETel.: 67 37 30 [email protected]

SWEDENTel.: (8) 611 19 [email protected]

UNITED KINGDOMTel.: (20) 7317 20 [email protected]

UNITED STATESTel.: (312) 642 19 [email protected]

Tel.: (323) 658 71 [email protected]



CENTRAL BOOKINGOFFICETel.: (+34) 902 547 [email protected]




UNITED STATESTels.: (212) 661 49 59/[email protected]

For tourist information,contact your nearestSPANISH TOURISTOFFICE:

CANADATels.: (416) 961 31 31/40 [email protected]

CHINATels.: (10) 65 32 93 06/[email protected]

DENMARKTel.: 33 18 66 [email protected]

ITALYTel.: (02) 72 00 46 [email protected]


JAPANTels.: (3) 34 32 61 41/[email protected]

CHINATel.: (10) 58 799 [email protected]

Tel.: (21) 62 17 26 [email protected]

DENMARKTel.: (33) 31 22 [email protected]

HONG KONGTels.: 25 21 74 33 -25 22 75 [email protected]

IRELANDTel.: (1) 661 63 [email protected]

ITALYTel.: (02) 78 14 [email protected]

JAPANTel.: (3) 55 75 04 [email protected]

MALAYSIATel.: (3) 2148 73 [email protected]

NETHERLANDSTels.: (70) 364 31 66 -345 13 [email protected]

NORWAYTel.: (23) 31 06 [email protected]

RUSSIATels.: (495) 783 9281/82/83/84/[email protected]

For more information,contact the ECONOMICAND COMMERCIALOFFICES AT SPAIN’SEMBASSIES in thecountries below:

AUSTRALIATels.: (2) 93 62 42 12/3/[email protected]

CANADATel.: (416) 967 04 88/28 [email protected]

SPAI

NOV

ERSE

AS


112PCASARDEBIERZO ingles.indd 1 22/7/10 11:19:34

PREMIUM QUALITY SPANISH CHEESE-THE GRANDEE OF SPAIN-

Award winning 12 month maturedManchego D.O. from La Mancha October 2008

Awarded first prize Manchego cheese at the annualManchego cheesemakers guild contest.

TARTESANA, S.L“Tarquessia de La Mancha”

Ctra. de Toledo, s/n13420 Malagón (C.Real) Spain

Tel: +(34) 926 266 410Fax: +(34) 926 266 413

[email protected]

I. QUESERA CUQUERELLA, S.L. - QUESOS ROCINANTEMalagón (C. Real) - Spain - Tel.: +34 926 266 410 - Fax: +34 926 266 413

[email protected] - www.rocinante.es

“The Original Spanish Cheesecake”

INGLÉS_Maquetación 1 22/07/10 10:29 Página 1

PD

FD

EC

LIE

NT

EC

HE

QU

EA

DO

PO

R

NETHERLANDSTel.: (70) 346 59 [email protected]

NORWAYTel.: (47) 22 83 76 [email protected]

RUSSIATel.: (495) 935 83 [email protected]




UNITED STATESTel.: (312) 642 19 [email protected]




CENTRAL BOOKINGOFFICETel.: (+34) 902 547 [email protected]




UNITED STATESTels.: (212) 661 49 59/[email protected]

For tourist information,contact your nearestSPANISH TOURISTOFFICE:

CANADATels.: (416) 961 31 31/40 [email protected]

CHINATels.: (10) 65 32 93 06/[email protected]

DENMARKTel.: 33 18 66 [email protected]

ITALYTel.: (02) 72 00 46 [email protected]


JAPANTels.: (3) 34 32 61 41/[email protected]

CHINATel.: (10) 58 799 [email protected]

Tel.: (21) 62 17 26 [email protected]

DENMARKTel.: (33) 31 22 [email protected]

HONG KONGTels.: 25 21 74 33 -25 22 75 [email protected]

IRELANDTel.: (1) 661 63 [email protected]

ITALYTel.: (02) 78 14 [email protected]

JAPANTel.: (3) 55 75 04 [email protected]

MALAYSIATel.: (3) 2148 73 [email protected]

NETHERLANDSTels.: (70) 364 31 66 -345 13 [email protected]

NORWAYTel.: (23) 31 06 [email protected]

RUSSIATels.: (495) 783 9281/82/83/84/[email protected]

For more information,contact the ECONOMICAND COMMERCIALOFFICES AT SPAIN’SEMBASSIES in thecountries below:

AUSTRALIATels.: (2) 93 62 42 12/3/[email protected]

CANADATel.: (416) 967 04 88/28 [email protected]

SPAI

NOV

ERSE

AS


112PCASARDEBIERZO ingles.indd 1 22/7/10 11:19:34

PREMIUM QUALITY SPANISH CHEESE-THE GRANDEE OF SPAIN-

Award winning 12 month maturedManchego D.O. from La Mancha October 2008

Awarded first prize Manchego cheese at the annualManchego cheesemakers guild contest.

TARTESANA, S.L“Tarquessia de La Mancha”

Ctra. de Toledo, s/n13420 Malagón (C.Real) Spain

Tel: +(34) 926 266 410Fax: +(34) 926 266 413

[email protected]

I. QUESERA CUQUERELLA, S.L. - QUESOS ROCINANTEMalagón (C. Real) - Spain - Tel.: +34 926 266 410 - Fax: +34 926 266 413

[email protected] - www.rocinante.es

“The Original Spanish Cheesecake”

INGLÉS_Maquetación 1 22/07/10 10:29 Página 1


LAST

ING

IMPR

ESSI

ONS









Puro sabor español






The Bookof Tapas




D Y C Helios, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 983 407 [email protected]

Golden Foods, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 968 387 [email protected]

Grupo Halcon Foods, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 968 650 [email protected]

Ibefruta-Muerza, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 948 692 [email protected]

Industrias Videca, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 962 452 [email protected]

Manuel García Campoy, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 968 670 [email protected]

Marín Giménez Hnos, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 968 702 [email protected]

Marín Montejano, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 968 687 501

[email protected]

Pedro Guillén Gomariz,S.L.Tel.: (+34) 968 670 [email protected]

Source: FederaciónNacional de Asociacionesde la Industria deConservas Vegetales(FNACV)Tels.: (+34) 915 475 714 -915 412 [email protected]

OrganicAgriculture

AlgamarTel.: (+34) 986 404 [email protected]

Alibos Galicia, S.L.Tel.: (+34) 982 377 [email protected]

Artesanos de Cuevas, S.L.Tel.: (+34) 985 215 [email protected]

Fruit Preserves

Agricultura y Conservas,S.A. (AGRICONSA)Tel.: (+34) 962 482 [email protected]

Alcurnia Alimentación, S.L.Tel.: (+34) 968 389 [email protected]

Bernardo Josa QuilezTel.: (+34) 962 993 [email protected]

Conservas ECYDSA, S.L.Tel.: (+34) 941 130 [email protected]

Conservas El Cidacos, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 948 754 [email protected]

Conservas Lazaya, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 976 889 [email protected]

Conservas y Frutas, S.A.(COFRUSA)Tel.: (+34) 968 395 [email protected]

EXPO

RTER

S

FoodProducts

BiocampoTel.: (+34) 968 335 [email protected]

BionestTel.: (+34) 959 450 [email protected]

BocopaTel.: (+34) 966 950 [email protected]

CanalexTel.: (+34) 950 489 [email protected]

Caseria la MaderaTel.: (+34) 985 876 [email protected]

CoatoTel.: (+34) 968 424 [email protected]

CofrudecaTel.: (+34) 962 901 [email protected]

Conservas AntonioP. LafuenteTel.: (+34) 986 554 [email protected]

Escanda Asturiana S.L.Tel.: (+34) 985 496 [email protected]

FrunetTel.: (+34) 952 527 [email protected]

Herbes del MolíTel.: (+34) 965 530 [email protected]

Mañan Sdad. Coop.Tel.: (+34) 965 478 [email protected]

Source: Sociedad Españolade Agricultura Ecológica(SEAE)Tel.: (+34) 961 267 [email protected]

This is a selection ofexporters supplied by theindividual Sources.


115PWINESNAVARRA ingles.indd 1 22/7/10 11:26:17


D Y C Helios, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 983 407 [email protected]

Golden Foods, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 968 387 [email protected]

Grupo Halcon Foods, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 968 650 [email protected]

Ibefruta-Muerza, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 948 692 [email protected]

Industrias Videca, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 962 452 [email protected]

Manuel García Campoy, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 968 670 [email protected]

Marín Giménez Hnos, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 968 702 [email protected]

Marín Montejano, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 968 687 501

[email protected]

Pedro Guillén Gomariz,S.L.Tel.: (+34) 968 670 [email protected]

Source: FederaciónNacional de Asociacionesde la Industria deConservas Vegetales(FNACV)Tels.: (+34) 915 475 714 -915 412 [email protected]

OrganicAgriculture

AlgamarTel.: (+34) 986 404 [email protected]

Alibos Galicia, S.L.Tel.: (+34) 982 377 [email protected]

Artesanos de Cuevas, S.L.Tel.: (+34) 985 215 [email protected]

Fruit Preserves

Agricultura y Conservas,S.A. (AGRICONSA)Tel.: (+34) 962 482 [email protected]

Alcurnia Alimentación, S.L.Tel.: (+34) 968 389 [email protected]

Bernardo Josa QuilezTel.: (+34) 962 993 [email protected]

Conservas ECYDSA, S.L.Tel.: (+34) 941 130 [email protected]

Conservas El Cidacos, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 948 754 [email protected]

Conservas Lazaya, S.A.Tel.: (+34) 976 889 [email protected]

Conservas y Frutas, S.A.(COFRUSA)Tel.: (+34) 968 395 [email protected]

EXPO

RTER

S

FoodProducts

BiocampoTel.: (+34) 968 335 [email protected]

BionestTel.: (+34) 959 450 [email protected]

BocopaTel.: (+34) 966 950 [email protected]

CanalexTel.: (+34) 950 489 [email protected]

Caseria la MaderaTel.: (+34) 985 876 [email protected]

CoatoTel.: (+34) 968 424 [email protected]

CofrudecaTel.: (+34) 962 901 [email protected]

Conservas AntonioP. LafuenteTel.: (+34) 986 554 [email protected]

Escanda Asturiana S.L.Tel.: (+34) 985 496 [email protected]

FrunetTel.: (+34) 952 527 [email protected]

Herbes del MolíTel.: (+34) 965 530 [email protected]

Mañan Sdad. Coop.Tel.: (+34) 965 478 [email protected]

Source: Sociedad Españolade Agricultura Ecológica(SEAE)Tel.: (+34) 961 267 [email protected]

This is a selection ofexporters supplied by theindividual Sources.


115PWINESNAVARRA ingles.indd 1 22/7/10 11:26:17


CoverIllustration: Alfredo

Editp. 1 Toya Legido/©ICEX

Contentsp. 2 Juan ManuelSanz/©ICEXp. 3 From left to right:Roberto Armas/©ICEX;Toya Legido/©ICEX;Patricia R. Soto/©ICEX

OrganicAgriculturepp. 12-13 Juan ManuelSanz/©ICEXp. 14 Patricia R. Soto/©ICEXpp. 15-19 Juan ManuelSanz/©ICEXp. 20 Top: FernandoMadariaga/©ICEXBottom: Juan ManuelSanz/©ICEXp. 21 Top: Félix Lorrio/©ICEXBottom: Juan ManuelSanz/©ICEX

pp. 22-23 Juan ManuelSanz/©ICEX

Brandy de Jerez:QuintessentialQualityp. 24 Top: Amador Toril/©ICEX; Botom: ©ICEXpp. 25-35 Amador Toril/©ICEX

Volcanic Survivorspp. 36-37 EfraínPintos/©ICEXp. 38 ©ICEXp. 39 Harold Heckle/©ICEXp. 40 Efraín Pintos/©ICEXp. 41 Miguel Angel Pérez/©ICEXp. 42 Harold Heckle/©ICEXp. 43 ©ICEXpp. 44-45 Harold Heckle/©ICEXp. 46 Efraín Pintos/©ICEXp. 47 Map: Javier Bellosop. 48 Efraín Pintos/©ICEXp. 49 Harold Heckle/©ICEX

CRED

ITS

21st Century Bitesp. 50 Tapas 24p. 51 Avant Gardep. 52 From left to right: LaChimenea de Echaurren;Inopia; Bacusp. 53 From left to right:Avant Garde; La Moragap. 54 Tapas 24p. 55 Pablo Neustadt/©ICEXp. 56 A. Becerrilp. 57 From left to right:Avant Garde; La Taberna delGourmet; Estado Purop. 58 Top: Estado Puro;Bottom: La Moragap. 59 Tapas 24p. 60 Inopiap. 61 La Moragap. 62 Tapas 24p. 63 Top: La Chimenea deEchaurren; Bottom: LaMoraga

Preserving Spainpp. 64-77 Toya Legido/©ICEX

RestauranteEls Casalspp.78-89 Toya Legido andTomás Zarza/©ICEX

The Nicest Tradepp. 90-91 González Byassp. 92 Pablo Neustadt/©ICEXpp. 93-95 González Byass

Christopher Hallfrom SanFranciscop. 96 Bocadillosp. 97 Hillary Turner

Misprint:In issue 79 of SpainGourmetour, the imageon page 57 was not thecorresponding photo forMiguel Sierra’s recipe,Cabo de Peñas sea urchinswith cocoa and olive oil.


Spain Gourmetour 80 (2010)

Documents

Transcript of Spain Gourmetour 80 (2010)