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EDIT

Editor-in-chiefCathy Boirac

Publication CoordinatorsAlmudena MuyoAlmudena Martín Rueda

Intern JournalistCelia Hernando

Photographic ArchiveMabel Manso

Editorial SecretaryÁngela Castilla

Design and Art DirectionManuel Estrada, Diseño Gráfico

MapsJavier Belloso

Color SeparationsEspacio y Punto

Printed in SpainEgraf

AdvertisingCEDISATel: (+34) 913 080 644Fax: (+34) 913 105 141pcyc@retemail.es

D.L.: M.45.307-1990

ISSN: 0214-2937

NIPO: 705-06-030-X

PublisherICEXState Secretary for Tourism and CommercePº de la Castellana, 1428046 MadridTel: (+34) 913 496 244Fax: (+34) 914 358 876www.icex.es

CoverJuan Manuel Sanz

Information and Subscription:Spain Gourmetour is a publication of theSpanish Institute for Foreign Trade(ICEX) of the State Secretary for Tourismand Commerce to promote Spain’s foodand wines, as well as cuisine and culture.The magazine is issued three times a yearin English, French, German and Spanishand is only and exclusively distributed,free of charge, to trade professionals,specialized journalists, chefs, cookingschools and other food and wineprofessionals. For more information,please contact the Economic andCommercial Offices at the Embassies ofSpain (see list on page 148).The opinions expressed by the authors ofthe articles are not necessarily shared bythe Spanish Institute for Foreign Trade(ICEX), which cannot be held responsiblefor any omissions or error in the text.

Olive oil forever! Long recognized as a source of good health, it is now also proving

to be a source of inspiration with which our top chefs are producing magical results.

In this issue, we also bring you the pomegranate, the Garden of Eden’s other fruit

and such a pleasurable feast of color and texture.

Much the same description could apply to the rather special ramblers’ paths along

which you can cycle your way into secret areas of little-known Spain, far away

from beaches and tarmac.

Getting a taste for discovery? Then come with us to Bierzo, the region that French-

man Emile Peynaud, “the father of modern winemaking”, predicted back in the

60s was destined to become one of Spain’s leading areas for great red wines.

And now a date for your diary: from June 14th to September 14th next year, Zaragoza

will be hosting Expo 2008, where the main theme is water, an increasingly scarce

resource. If you make it, you’ll be needing our guide to the top tapas venues in the

town that was originally known as Caesaraugusta under the Roman colonists, then

as Saraqusta during the Arab occupation, and became capital of the Kingdom of

Aragón in the 12th century, only to be laid waste by the Napoleonic troops in 1808.

Finally, we have a new scheme to announce: a one-year grant program for non-

Spanish promising, young professional chefs.

Happy reading!

Cathy Boirac

Editor-in-Chief

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2 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 3

Editorial ...................................1

ColorsOlive Oil Cuisine.Textures of the Future .............16

WinesBodegas O. Fournier.Spanish Roots Abroad.Hooked on Wine.....................36

High Times in Bierzo.Treasure Trove.........................42

Around & AboutVías Verdes I. Conquering theHeart of Spain .........................54

TrainingICEX Gastronomy InternshipProgram.Sharing Culinary Craft ............72

Culinary FareTasting Tapas in Zaragoza.Secret Store .............................84

Food BasicsPomegranates.Eden’s Other Fruit .................100

RecipesKiko Moya ............................114Pomegranates........................116

Business WatchPorto-Muiños.A Taste of the Sea ..................126

On the Move .........................133

ColophonSpanish at Heart. Sergio Volturo,Cultural Advisor.A Committed Epicure ...........136

Regular FeaturesLasting Impressions...............141Exporters ..............................145Ad Index ...............................146Spain Overseas......................148Credits ..................................152

SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 No.72

CONT

ENTS

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2 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 3

Editorial ...................................1

ColorsOlive Oil Cuisine.Textures of the Future .............16

WinesBodegas O. Fournier.Spanish Roots Abroad.Hooked on Wine.....................36

High Times in Bierzo.Treasure Trove.........................42

Around & AboutVías Verdes I. Conquering theHeart of Spain .........................54

TrainingICEX Gastronomy InternshipProgram.Sharing Culinary Craft ............72

Culinary FareTasting Tapas in Zaragoza.Secret Store .............................84

Food BasicsPomegranates.Eden’s Other Fruit .................100

RecipesKiko Moya ............................114Pomegranates........................116

Business WatchPorto-Muiños.A Taste of the Sea ..................126

On the Move .........................133

ColophonSpanish at Heart. Sergio Volturo,Cultural Advisor.A Committed Epicure ...........136

Regular FeaturesLasting Impressions...............141Exporters ..............................145Ad Index ...............................146Spain Overseas......................148Credits ..................................152

SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 No.72

CONT

ENTS

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TEXTURESFUTURE

Olive Oil Cuisine

ofthe

There’s nothing new under the sun, especially if we’re talking about one

of the world’s most ancient fruits–extra virgin olive oil. But recent technical

advances and the inventiveness of a group of young Spanish chefs have

subjected this age-old product to all manner of interpretations, and new

creations with olive oil take our taste buds to territories both familiar and

unknown, but always along unexplored paths. The actual role of olive

oil is undergoing a metamorphosis. From being the guest of honor in

salads, fried foods and cooked dishes, it now often features as the star

ingredient and is preparing to steal the show in the 21st century.

02-METAMORFOSIS ACEITE IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 12:40 P gina 16 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

METAMORFOSIS ACEITE_AF.qxd 15/11/07 21:01 Página 16

TEXTURESFUTURE

Olive Oil Cuisine

ofthe

There’s nothing new under the sun, especially if we’re talking about one

of the world’s most ancient fruits–extra virgin olive oil. But recent technical

advances and the inventiveness of a group of young Spanish chefs have

subjected this age-old product to all manner of interpretations, and new

creations with olive oil take our taste buds to territories both familiar and

unknown, but always along unexplored paths. The actual role of olive

oil is undergoing a metamorphosis. From being the guest of honor in

salads, fried foods and cooked dishes, it now often features as the star

ingredient and is preparing to steal the show in the 21st century.

02-METAMORFOSIS ACEITE IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 12:40 P gina 16 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

Tal como nuestros modernos avionesse inspiraron en algo tan antiguo comoel vuelo de los pájaros, cuando afinales de los años noventa, MartínBerasategui se atrevió a transgredir laortodoxia del aceite de oliva, lo hizoinspirándose en algunas costumbrespopulares. El hoy tres estrellasMichelin advirtió que en algunaspartes de la Provenza francesa existía elhábito de introducir el aceite de olivavirgen extra en la nevera para suposterior aplicación sobre el pan amodo de mantequilla. Al advertir loscambios que se operaban en la texturadel aceite, decidió aplicarlos a unanueva receta, que hoy día ya tiene laconsideración de clásico: el helado deaceite de oliva. Aquella primeraruptura con la tradición del aceite deoliva virgen extra no se aplicó enpostres como pudiera parecer aprimera vista. En lugar de eso,Berasategui decidió destinar suhallazgo a preparaciones saladas comola vieira marinada con hígado de rapeo el bonito marinado, platos que ibanacompañados de una guarnición dehelado de aceite de oliva. “Para mí, lacocina y el aceite de oliva virgen extraforman un binomio indisoluble: elaceite de oliva es equivalente a la

buena cocina. Lo cierto es que año trasaño van mejorando las técnicas deextracción, así como la calidad delaceite. Y esto es lo que permite quepodamos ajustar las recetas a través delos aromas y sabores que podemosobtener (acidez, amargor…). Y estotambién incluye a los postres”, explicaBerasategui haciendo balance de latrayectoria seguida por este ingredientemediterráneo a lo largo de las dosúltimas décadas. Pero latransformación en el uso del aceitede oliva tal como lo conocemoshunde sus raíces más atrás en eltiempo. Porque si bien Berasateguidio a conocer el helado de aceite deoliva, fue otro cocinero el que llevóa cabo las primeras aproximaciones aesta técnica.Cuando le llega el momento a unaidea, la Historia siempre se encargade que haya alguien que la materialice.Algo así ocurrió en Lúculo, el primerrestaurante de cocina creativa deMadrid. A cientos de kilómetros delrestaurante Berasategui en el PaísVasco, y casi quince años antes,un joven, Ange García, estabaexperimentando con los sorbetesde verduras cuando decidió incorporarel aceite de oliva virgen extra.

En 1983, el inquieto cocinero español,que venía de paladear las mieles deléxito en Perpignan con su restauranteL'Apero, estaba dispuesto arevolucionar la restauración en lacapital española. “En Lúculo hacíamosuna cocina muy creativa y arriesgada;recuerdo que Santi Santamaría yFerran Adrià se pasaban por allí paraver lo que estábamos desarrollando”,evoca Ange García. En la actualidad,después de haber inaugurado uno delos primeros restaurantes de tapascreativas en Londres (Albero y Grana),y de colaborar en diversos proyectoscomo asesor o cocinero porrestaurantes de todo el mundo, tiene asu cargo el espacio gastronómico deLavinia, una de las mayores tiendas devinos de España, con establecimientosen Madrid, Barcelona, París, Ginebra yUcrania. Cuando le hablo de aquellosprimeros sorbetes frunce el ceñohaciendo memoria.“Hoy día hay sorbetes de todo, peronosotros empezamos a romper moldesen Lúculo. El sorbete no se puedehacer con agua porque se te quedacomo una piedra, hace falta unaturbina, el aporte de una materia grasay, luego, los ingredientes que den elsabor. El sorbete de aceite de oliva

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18 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

Just as modern aircraft took theirinspiration from the flight of birds, atthe end of the 1990s MartínBerasategui dared to break the rules,taking his inspiration from localcustoms. This three-Michelin-starchef was interested to learn that insome parts of Provence in France,people used to place olive oil in thefridge so that it could then be spreadon bread like butter. His curiosityabout the physical changes in oil ledhim to devise a new recipe, now aclassic: olive oil ice cream. That firstdeparture from traditional extravirgin olive oil was not initiallyapplied to desserts, as you mightexpect. What Berasategui did wasuse this finding in savory dishessuch as marinated scallop withmonkfish liver or marinated albacoretuna, which he served with a garnishof olive oil ice cream. “As far as I’mconcerned, extra virgin olive oil andcooking necessarily go together.

Olive oil is the equivalent of goodcooking. Extraction techniques andoil quality are improving year byyear, to the extent that we can nowdevise recipes on the basis of thevaried aromas and flavors of oliveoil–acidity, bitterness, etc. And thatincludes desserts.” This isBerasategui’s explanation of thedevelopments seen over the last twodecades in the use of thisMediterranean ingredient. But thechanges go even further back. Whileit was Berasategui who inventedolive oil ice cream, it was anotherchef who first tested thesetechniques.When the time is ripe for a new idea,history always makes sure there issomeone who can put it into effect.That was more or less whathappened at Lúculo, the first creativecuisine eatery in Madrid. Hundredsof miles from Berasategui’s restaurantin the Basque Country and almost

15 years earlier, the young AngeGarcía was experimenting withvegetable sorbets when he decidedto start including extra virgin oliveoil. In 1983, after reaping success inPerpignan at his restaurant L’Apero,he was prepared to revolutionizecooking in the Spanish capital. “AtLúculo we were very creative andaudacious. I remember SantiSantamaría and Ferrán Adrià comingalong to see what we were up to,”says Ange García. Today, after settingup one of London’s first creative tapasrestaurants (Albero & Grana) andparticipating in projects as adviser orchef in restaurants all the world over,he is now in charge of thegastronomic section of Lavinia, one ofthe largest wine stores in Spain, withestablishments in Madrid andBarcelona as well as Paris, Geneva andUkraine. When I ask about his earlysorbets, he thinks back.“Now sorbets are made of all sorts of

OLIVE OIL

COLORS

TEXTDAVID CÁNOVAS WILLIAMS

TRANSLATIONJENNY MCDONALD

PHOTOSTOMÁS ZARZA

TOYA LEGIDO/ICEX

02-METAMORFOSIS ACEITE IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 12:43 P gina 18 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

Tal como nuestros modernos avionesse inspiraron en algo tan antiguo comoel vuelo de los pájaros, cuando afinales de los años noventa, MartínBerasategui se atrevió a transgredir laortodoxia del aceite de oliva, lo hizoinspirándose en algunas costumbrespopulares. El hoy tres estrellasMichelin advirtió que en algunaspartes de la Provenza francesa existía elhábito de introducir el aceite de olivavirgen extra en la nevera para suposterior aplicación sobre el pan amodo de mantequilla. Al advertir loscambios que se operaban en la texturadel aceite, decidió aplicarlos a unanueva receta, que hoy día ya tiene laconsideración de clásico: el helado deaceite de oliva. Aquella primeraruptura con la tradición del aceite deoliva virgen extra no se aplicó enpostres como pudiera parecer aprimera vista. En lugar de eso,Berasategui decidió destinar suhallazgo a preparaciones saladas comola vieira marinada con hígado de rapeo el bonito marinado, platos que ibanacompañados de una guarnición dehelado de aceite de oliva. “Para mí, lacocina y el aceite de oliva virgen extraforman un binomio indisoluble: elaceite de oliva es equivalente a la

buena cocina. Lo cierto es que año trasaño van mejorando las técnicas deextracción, así como la calidad delaceite. Y esto es lo que permite quepodamos ajustar las recetas a través delos aromas y sabores que podemosobtener (acidez, amargor…). Y estotambién incluye a los postres”, explicaBerasategui haciendo balance de latrayectoria seguida por este ingredientemediterráneo a lo largo de las dosúltimas décadas. Pero latransformación en el uso del aceitede oliva tal como lo conocemoshunde sus raíces más atrás en eltiempo. Porque si bien Berasateguidio a conocer el helado de aceite deoliva, fue otro cocinero el que llevóa cabo las primeras aproximaciones aesta técnica.Cuando le llega el momento a unaidea, la Historia siempre se encargade que haya alguien que la materialice.Algo así ocurrió en Lúculo, el primerrestaurante de cocina creativa deMadrid. A cientos de kilómetros delrestaurante Berasategui en el PaísVasco, y casi quince años antes,un joven, Ange García, estabaexperimentando con los sorbetesde verduras cuando decidió incorporarel aceite de oliva virgen extra.

En 1983, el inquieto cocinero español,que venía de paladear las mieles deléxito en Perpignan con su restauranteL'Apero, estaba dispuesto arevolucionar la restauración en lacapital española. “En Lúculo hacíamosuna cocina muy creativa y arriesgada;recuerdo que Santi Santamaría yFerran Adrià se pasaban por allí paraver lo que estábamos desarrollando”,evoca Ange García. En la actualidad,después de haber inaugurado uno delos primeros restaurantes de tapascreativas en Londres (Albero y Grana),y de colaborar en diversos proyectoscomo asesor o cocinero porrestaurantes de todo el mundo, tiene asu cargo el espacio gastronómico deLavinia, una de las mayores tiendas devinos de España, con establecimientosen Madrid, Barcelona, París, Ginebra yUcrania. Cuando le hablo de aquellosprimeros sorbetes frunce el ceñohaciendo memoria.“Hoy día hay sorbetes de todo, peronosotros empezamos a romper moldesen Lúculo. El sorbete no se puedehacer con agua porque se te quedacomo una piedra, hace falta unaturbina, el aporte de una materia grasay, luego, los ingredientes que den elsabor. El sorbete de aceite de oliva

METAMORFOSIS ACEITE_AF.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 17:24 P gina 18

18 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

Just as modern aircraft took theirinspiration from the flight of birds, atthe end of the 1990s MartínBerasategui dared to break the rules,taking his inspiration from localcustoms. This three-Michelin-starchef was interested to learn that insome parts of Provence in France,people used to place olive oil in thefridge so that it could then be spreadon bread like butter. His curiosityabout the physical changes in oil ledhim to devise a new recipe, now aclassic: olive oil ice cream. That firstdeparture from traditional extravirgin olive oil was not initiallyapplied to desserts, as you mightexpect. What Berasategui did wasuse this finding in savory dishessuch as marinated scallop withmonkfish liver or marinated albacoretuna, which he served with a garnishof olive oil ice cream. “As far as I’mconcerned, extra virgin olive oil andcooking necessarily go together.

Olive oil is the equivalent of goodcooking. Extraction techniques andoil quality are improving year byyear, to the extent that we can nowdevise recipes on the basis of thevaried aromas and flavors of oliveoil–acidity, bitterness, etc. And thatincludes desserts.” This isBerasategui’s explanation of thedevelopments seen over the last twodecades in the use of thisMediterranean ingredient. But thechanges go even further back. Whileit was Berasategui who inventedolive oil ice cream, it was anotherchef who first tested thesetechniques.When the time is ripe for a new idea,history always makes sure there issomeone who can put it into effect.That was more or less whathappened at Lúculo, the first creativecuisine eatery in Madrid. Hundredsof miles from Berasategui’s restaurantin the Basque Country and almost

15 years earlier, the young AngeGarcía was experimenting withvegetable sorbets when he decidedto start including extra virgin oliveoil. In 1983, after reaping success inPerpignan at his restaurant L’Apero,he was prepared to revolutionizecooking in the Spanish capital. “AtLúculo we were very creative andaudacious. I remember SantiSantamaría and Ferrán Adrià comingalong to see what we were up to,”says Ange García. Today, after settingup one of London’s first creative tapasrestaurants (Albero & Grana) andparticipating in projects as adviser orchef in restaurants all the world over,he is now in charge of thegastronomic section of Lavinia, one ofthe largest wine stores in Spain, withestablishments in Madrid andBarcelona as well as Paris, Geneva andUkraine. When I ask about his earlysorbets, he thinks back.“Now sorbets are made of all sorts of

OLIVE OIL

COLORS

TEXTDAVID CÁNOVAS WILLIAMS

TRANSLATIONJENNY MCDONALD

PHOTOSTOMÁS ZARZA

TOYA LEGIDO/ICEX

02-METAMORFOSIS ACEITE IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 12:43 P gina 18 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

METAMORFOSIS ACEITE_AF.qxd 15/11/07 21:01 Página 20

20 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 21

OLIVE OIL

COLORS

oil. The appearance of newtechniques and technologiesmarked developments in the use ofolive oil. In the words of JoséAndrés, ambassador of Spanishcuisine in the US, “Technologicaladvances such as the Pacojet haveled to new applications for oil, aswith olive oil ice cream.” Otherimportant innovations in recentyears have been the use of newthickeners and emulsifiers, as wellas liquid nitrogen, otherwise knownas dry ice.

Cooking between-319ºF and 356ºFDani García holds up a siphon.Before him is a smoking containerof liquid nitrogen. He has justsprayed olive oil over a gas at -195ºC(-319 ºF). Seconds later, he extractstiny golden pearls: it’s his famousolive oil semolina. On the tongue,the little balls immediately disappearinto thin air in a retronasal explosionof aroma. This is pure virgin olive oilbut it doesn’t leave behind a singletrace of fat on the palate. It is

probably the first time in history thatpeople are eating oil from a spoonwithout it being cod liver oil orcastor oil to treat anemia or somesimilar ailment. This is one of thenew, pleasurable applications ofvirgin olive oil. About five years ago, Dani García,dubbed “King of Cold” by foodwriter José Carlos Capel, and chef atthe restaurant Calima in Málaga(Spain Gourmetour No. 70), startedexperimenting with olive oil atextremely low temperatures. Hestarted out by contacting RaimundoGarcía del Moral who is not only alover of gastronomy but alsoprofessor of forensic anatomy at theUniversity of Granada. In mid-2003,the two Garcías joined forces: onewas to come up with the ideas andthe cooking utensils and the otherwas to provide the laboratory andtechnical know-how on how foodbreaks down.They soon found that when extravirgin olive oil was placed in liquidnitrogen its properties changedradically. “Normally, because of itsmolecular characteristics, it is

practically impossible to freeze oliveoil,” explains García del Moral, “butat temperatures of -195ºC (-319ºF),it vitrifies. Its molecular structurechanges completely, turning it into asort of white dust.” Achieving thisdifferent texture went a step furtherthan the process of making olive oilice cream. This was their firstconclusion. But, if it hadn’t been foranother quality of olive oil, itsmelting temperature, this findingwould not have been particularlyuseful, given that creative cuisine didnot include freezing the tongues ofits customers in order to experiencenew sensations. “The advantage ofolive oil is that it has a very lowmelting point, just 40 calories pergram,” continues the scientist. Butbefore readers give up, overwhelmedby a surfeit of technical jargon,perhaps we should talk about theother member of the tandem. At therecent seminar ‘Andalusian cuisineand olive oil in the 21st century’, heldin Seville in early July last year, DaniGarcía explained some of his oliveoil and liquid nitrogen creations.“Fats melt fast, which is why it’s

things, but at Lúculo we were thetrue pioneers. Sorbet can’t be madewith water because it goes hard as arock. You need a turbine, some sortof fat and the ingredients that givethe flavor. Extra virgin olive oilsorbet was born because we werekeen to replace the cream and butterwith olive oil to get a creamiertexture.” It was 1984 and hisrestaurant was producing sorbetswith tomato, green pepper, celery...“They all included a large percentageof extra virgin olive oil. I rememberwe made one from just olive oil,cooked Aragonese olive paste and atouch of salt. Another containedtruffle and garlic-flavored olive oil.Personally, I almost always preferArbequina olive oil because of itsfruitiness and delicate flavor.” LikeBerasategui, Ange García used thesesorbets as a garnish for savorydishes: gazpacho, cold soups such ascream of white beans, andcarpaccios. “My father is from Reusand my mother from Perpignan, soI’ve been very influenced by theMediterranean and olive oil hasalways been part of my cooking. Itwas only natural for me to includeolive oil in sorbets.” And he statescategorically, “Nothing comes out ofmy kitchen that doesn’t include extravirgin olive oil.”Those early experiments had atremendous impact and today manyrestaurants serve olive oil icecreams and sorbets either as´dessert or as a garnish for savorydishes. Today, Spanish companiessuch as the newly-createdKitCream, which specializes inorganic ice creams, offer flavorssuch as olive oil and dill.Temperature variations were one ofthe first ways of changing the textureand consistency of extra virgin olive

Dani García

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20 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 21

OLIVE OIL

COLORS

oil. The appearance of newtechniques and technologiesmarked developments in the use ofolive oil. In the words of JoséAndrés, ambassador of Spanishcuisine in the US, “Technologicaladvances such as the Pacojet haveled to new applications for oil, aswith olive oil ice cream.” Otherimportant innovations in recentyears have been the use of newthickeners and emulsifiers, as wellas liquid nitrogen, otherwise knownas dry ice.

Cooking between-319ºF and 356ºFDani García holds up a siphon.Before him is a smoking containerof liquid nitrogen. He has justsprayed olive oil over a gas at -195ºC(-319 ºF). Seconds later, he extractstiny golden pearls: it’s his famousolive oil semolina. On the tongue,the little balls immediately disappearinto thin air in a retronasal explosionof aroma. This is pure virgin olive oilbut it doesn’t leave behind a singletrace of fat on the palate. It is

probably the first time in history thatpeople are eating oil from a spoonwithout it being cod liver oil orcastor oil to treat anemia or somesimilar ailment. This is one of thenew, pleasurable applications ofvirgin olive oil. About five years ago, Dani García,dubbed “King of Cold” by foodwriter José Carlos Capel, and chef atthe restaurant Calima in Málaga(Spain Gourmetour No. 70), startedexperimenting with olive oil atextremely low temperatures. Hestarted out by contacting RaimundoGarcía del Moral who is not only alover of gastronomy but alsoprofessor of forensic anatomy at theUniversity of Granada. In mid-2003,the two Garcías joined forces: onewas to come up with the ideas andthe cooking utensils and the otherwas to provide the laboratory andtechnical know-how on how foodbreaks down.They soon found that when extravirgin olive oil was placed in liquidnitrogen its properties changedradically. “Normally, because of itsmolecular characteristics, it is

practically impossible to freeze oliveoil,” explains García del Moral, “butat temperatures of -195ºC (-319ºF),it vitrifies. Its molecular structurechanges completely, turning it into asort of white dust.” Achieving thisdifferent texture went a step furtherthan the process of making olive oilice cream. This was their firstconclusion. But, if it hadn’t been foranother quality of olive oil, itsmelting temperature, this findingwould not have been particularlyuseful, given that creative cuisine didnot include freezing the tongues ofits customers in order to experiencenew sensations. “The advantage ofolive oil is that it has a very lowmelting point, just 40 calories pergram,” continues the scientist. Butbefore readers give up, overwhelmedby a surfeit of technical jargon,perhaps we should talk about theother member of the tandem. At therecent seminar ‘Andalusian cuisineand olive oil in the 21st century’, heldin Seville in early July last year, DaniGarcía explained some of his oliveoil and liquid nitrogen creations.“Fats melt fast, which is why it’s

things, but at Lúculo we were thetrue pioneers. Sorbet can’t be madewith water because it goes hard as arock. You need a turbine, some sortof fat and the ingredients that givethe flavor. Extra virgin olive oilsorbet was born because we werekeen to replace the cream and butterwith olive oil to get a creamiertexture.” It was 1984 and hisrestaurant was producing sorbetswith tomato, green pepper, celery...“They all included a large percentageof extra virgin olive oil. I rememberwe made one from just olive oil,cooked Aragonese olive paste and atouch of salt. Another containedtruffle and garlic-flavored olive oil.Personally, I almost always preferArbequina olive oil because of itsfruitiness and delicate flavor.” LikeBerasategui, Ange García used thesesorbets as a garnish for savorydishes: gazpacho, cold soups such ascream of white beans, andcarpaccios. “My father is from Reusand my mother from Perpignan, soI’ve been very influenced by theMediterranean and olive oil hasalways been part of my cooking. Itwas only natural for me to includeolive oil in sorbets.” And he statescategorically, “Nothing comes out ofmy kitchen that doesn’t include extravirgin olive oil.”Those early experiments had atremendous impact and today manyrestaurants serve olive oil icecreams and sorbets either as´dessert or as a garnish for savorydishes. Today, Spanish companiessuch as the newly-createdKitCream, which specializes inorganic ice creams, offer flavorssuch as olive oil and dill.Temperature variations were one ofthe first ways of changing the textureand consistency of extra virgin olive

Dani García

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more pleasant to eat an ice creamthan an ice sorbet.” It’s as simple asthat. And from this happycombination of physical propertiesthe first olive oil semolina was born.This discovery took place a numberof years ago, but Dani García is stilljust as enthusiastic as he was then.“The texture is incredible. Usingnitrogen allows us to eat olive oil,literally.” He is also excited by hisolive oil and tomato popcorn, aversion of olive oil that includes 50%raf tomato juice and a pinch of agaragar as a thickener. “The dish isalmost three years old now, but everytime we make it we still feel thesame thrill.”Tomato with olive oil is probably oneof the most classic Spanishgastronomic combinations, so it isperhaps no surprise that these

22 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 23

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COLORSingredients should inspire such arevolutionary recipe. But it isprecisely here where the riskiest ofinitiatives goes hand-in-hand withtradition. “In our cuisine, we valuethe concept of taste memory. Even ifnew techniques are adopted, wewant dishes to remind us of theflavors of our childhood, well-known territory,” says Dani García,hinting at the thought processes thatgo into his work in the kitchen.But liquid nitrogen is not the onlyway in which this young Andalusianchef has put extra virgin olive oil tothe test. In a radical move, DaniGarcía decided to focus on the othertemperature extreme: frying.The Andalusian coast is somethingof a theme park of fried fish.Dogfish, anchovies, sardines, redmullet, whitebait, wedge sole, baby

hake, etc. all pass religiouslythrough the deep fryer. The qualityof many of the restaurants thatspecialize in frying is often veryhigh so, according to Dani García, itwould have been very rash on hispart to try to improve on what theywere doing. But fish is generallyfried in small portions, and that waswhere he saw potential forinnovation. This suggestion, too,came from García del Moral, whohad noted the use of an age-oldtechnique in Casa Joaquín, arestaurant in Málaga. “I love visitingthese places to learn and see how Ican introduce innovations from ascientific point of view,” he says. AtCasa Joaquín, Encarnación Godoyfried whole fish in such a way thatthe scales acted as a ready-madepapillotte. So the skin fried while

the flesh, which is separated from itby a layer of air, cooked in its ownjuices. The effect is surprising as thefish blows up like a balloon andfloats on the surface of the oil.Dani García decided to adopt thistechnique with large fish. Sole andturbot were the first candidates forthis treatment at 182ºC (359.6ºF)and the result was so positive thatthey were included on Calima’smenu. Dani García serves the friedsole with the flesh separated fromthe skin so that he can fry the latter alittle longer, making it crispier.But his research in the field offrying did not end there. “Rightnow I’m working on a new projectwith Bodegas Campo, a restaurantin Almería with both a kitchen anda laboratory so that chefs can workside-by-side with scientists all day

D A N I G A R C Í A

Technique: Liquid nitrogenOlive oil semolina and olive oil popcorn with raf tomato are the two main recipesdevised by Dani García using liquid nitrogen, but he was also behind one of themost brilliant recipes of recent years–the gold ingot–achieved by changing themolecular structure of olive oil (Spain Gourmetour No. 70). First he creates olive oilsemolina and then places it in a Pacojet to convert it into a paste. Then it istransferred to a mold, bathed in liquid nitrogen and coated with an olive water andgold dust gelatin. Finally, he adds a spoonful of Andalusian Riofrío caviar. “Olive oilhas often been called liquid gold, so I decided to have some fun with this idea,”he says.

Coupage of Picual olive oil with Arbequinaaromas (skin of green tomato, lychee, peach,green apple and almond)Because of the molecular structure of extra virgin olive oil, when we add it underpressure to liquid nitrogen, it breaks up, forming small particles that we call olive oilsemolina. This dish is particularly interesting as it produces a surprisingly pleasantsensation in the mouth. The fruity aromas of the Arbequina (represented in thisrecipe by the fruit and almond aromas) refresh the Picual and round off its pungency.It should be served at -15ºC (5ºF) because the olive oil semolina sublimates in themouth and disappears almost instantaneously, revealing all the aroma of the Picualextra virgin olive oil in the aftertaste.

SERVES 4300 ml / 1 1/4 cup Picual extra virgin olive oil; 3 green tomatoes; 500 g / 1 lb 2 ozpeaches; 1 sheet gelatin; 150 g / 5 1/2 oz fresh almonds; 150 ml / 2/3 cups milk;salt; 2 lychees; 1/2 green apple; various small flowers.

Picual olive oil semolinaLightly confit the skin of the green tomatoes in the Picual extra virgin olive oil for 25minutes. Once the oil has taken on the flavor, season and place in a siphon. Attachtwo cartridges and spray towards the liquid nitrogen. This will form a frozen, tomato-flavored Picual semolina. Set aside at -30ºC / -22ºF.

Peach gelatinLiquidize the fruit, pour through a cloth filter and freeze only the liquid obtained.Soak the gelatin until soft, drain and add. Chill the mixture and set aside.

Fresh almondsPeel the almonds and place in the milk. Add a little salt and crush very finely. Strainthrough a fine chinois and, just before serving, beat to form an emulsion.

TO SERVEPlace the Picual extra virgin olive oil semolina in the center of a cold plate. To oneside, place the peach gelatin, the almond emulsion and a julienne of green applewith pieces of lychee.

Preparation:20 minutes

Cooking time:2 minutes. The cooking process uses cold rather than heat, with liquid nitrogen.

Recommended wine:Antonio Ramírez, sommelier at the restaurant Calima, suggests the cava Kripta GranReserva 1999 (from the Agustín Torelló Mata winery) because of its clean, fruityaroma with marked touches of ripe fruit and slight toasty notes, “perfect to balancethe flavor of the Picual and give verve to the accompanying fruit.”

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more pleasant to eat an ice creamthan an ice sorbet.” It’s as simple asthat. And from this happycombination of physical propertiesthe first olive oil semolina was born.This discovery took place a numberof years ago, but Dani García is stilljust as enthusiastic as he was then.“The texture is incredible. Usingnitrogen allows us to eat olive oil,literally.” He is also excited by hisolive oil and tomato popcorn, aversion of olive oil that includes 50%raf tomato juice and a pinch of agaragar as a thickener. “The dish isalmost three years old now, but everytime we make it we still feel thesame thrill.”Tomato with olive oil is probably oneof the most classic Spanishgastronomic combinations, so it isperhaps no surprise that these

22 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 23

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COLORS

ingredients should inspire such arevolutionary recipe. But it isprecisely here where the riskiest ofinitiatives goes hand-in-hand withtradition. “In our cuisine, we valuethe concept of taste memory. Even ifnew techniques are adopted, wewant dishes to remind us of theflavors of our childhood, well-known territory,” says Dani García,hinting at the thought processes thatgo into his work in the kitchen.But liquid nitrogen is not the onlyway in which this young Andalusianchef has put extra virgin olive oil tothe test. In a radical move, DaniGarcía decided to focus on the othertemperature extreme: frying.The Andalusian coast is somethingof a theme park of fried fish.Dogfish, anchovies, sardines, redmullet, whitebait, wedge sole, baby

hake, etc. all pass religiouslythrough the deep fryer. The qualityof many of the restaurants thatspecialize in frying is often veryhigh so, according to Dani García, itwould have been very rash on hispart to try to improve on what theywere doing. But fish is generallyfried in small portions, and that waswhere he saw potential forinnovation. This suggestion, too,came from García del Moral, whohad noted the use of an age-oldtechnique in Casa Joaquín, arestaurant in Málaga. “I love visitingthese places to learn and see how Ican introduce innovations from ascientific point of view,” he says. AtCasa Joaquín, Encarnación Godoyfried whole fish in such a way thatthe scales acted as a ready-madepapillotte. So the skin fried while

the flesh, which is separated from itby a layer of air, cooked in its ownjuices. The effect is surprising as thefish blows up like a balloon andfloats on the surface of the oil.Dani García decided to adopt thistechnique with large fish. Sole andturbot were the first candidates forthis treatment at 182ºC (359.6ºF)and the result was so positive thatthey were included on Calima’smenu. Dani García serves the friedsole with the flesh separated fromthe skin so that he can fry the latter alittle longer, making it crispier.But his research in the field offrying did not end there. “Rightnow I’m working on a new projectwith Bodegas Campo, a restaurantin Almería with both a kitchen anda laboratory so that chefs can workside-by-side with scientists all day

D A N I G A R C Í A

Technique: Liquid nitrogenOlive oil semolina and olive oil popcorn with raf tomato are the two main recipesdevised by Dani García using liquid nitrogen, but he was also behind one of themost brilliant recipes of recent years–the gold ingot–achieved by changing themolecular structure of olive oil (Spain Gourmetour No. 70). First he creates olive oilsemolina and then places it in a Pacojet to convert it into a paste. Then it istransferred to a mold, bathed in liquid nitrogen and coated with an olive water andgold dust gelatin. Finally, he adds a spoonful of Andalusian Riofrío caviar. “Olive oilhas often been called liquid gold, so I decided to have some fun with this idea,”he says.

Coupage of Picual olive oil with Arbequinaaromas (skin of green tomato, lychee, peach,green apple and almond)Because of the molecular structure of extra virgin olive oil, when we add it underpressure to liquid nitrogen, it breaks up, forming small particles that we call olive oilsemolina. This dish is particularly interesting as it produces a surprisingly pleasantsensation in the mouth. The fruity aromas of the Arbequina (represented in thisrecipe by the fruit and almond aromas) refresh the Picual and round off its pungency.It should be served at -15ºC (5ºF) because the olive oil semolina sublimates in themouth and disappears almost instantaneously, revealing all the aroma of the Picualextra virgin olive oil in the aftertaste.

SERVES 4300 ml / 1 1/4 cup Picual extra virgin olive oil; 3 green tomatoes; 500 g / 1 lb 2 ozpeaches; 1 sheet gelatin; 150 g / 5 1/2 oz fresh almonds; 150 ml / 2/3 cups milk;salt; 2 lychees; 1/2 green apple; various small flowers.

Picual olive oil semolinaLightly confit the skin of the green tomatoes in the Picual extra virgin olive oil for 25minutes. Once the oil has taken on the flavor, season and place in a siphon. Attachtwo cartridges and spray towards the liquid nitrogen. This will form a frozen, tomato-flavored Picual semolina. Set aside at -30ºC / -22ºF.

Peach gelatinLiquidize the fruit, pour through a cloth filter and freeze only the liquid obtained.Soak the gelatin until soft, drain and add. Chill the mixture and set aside.

Fresh almondsPeel the almonds and place in the milk. Add a little salt and crush very finely. Strainthrough a fine chinois and, just before serving, beat to form an emulsion.

TO SERVEPlace the Picual extra virgin olive oil semolina in the center of a cold plate. To oneside, place the peach gelatin, the almond emulsion and a julienne of green applewith pieces of lychee.

Preparation:20 minutes

Cooking time:2 minutes. The cooking process uses cold rather than heat, with liquid nitrogen.

Recommended wine:Antonio Ramírez, sommelier at the restaurant Calima, suggests the cava Kripta GranReserva 1999 (from the Agustín Torelló Mata winery) because of its clean, fruityaroma with marked touches of ripe fruit and slight toasty notes, “perfect to balancethe flavor of the Picual and give verve to the accompanying fruit.”

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24 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

long–in search of optimal frying

conditions. All deep fryers have a

USB port so the temperature can be

controlled very precisely. “We’re

going to study the effect of different

temperatures on the olive oil so that

we can develop an olive oil blend

that is special for frying,” adds

García del Moral. But temperature is

not the whole story.

Gourmetour No. 71). At the start ofhis presentation, Roncero explainedhow he started out experimentingwith extra virgin olive oil. “I wasasked by the food writer José CarlosCapel to speak at one of the firstMadrid Fusion congresses. I was abit reluctant at first but thoughtabout it and realized that if we wantto be creative chefs, we should neverset limits to what can or cannot bedone.”Roncero’s first ideas take us back tothe early 1980s, to the inroads beingmade by Berasategui and AngeGarcía. “If we place a bottle of oil inthe fridge, its texture changes, so justby altering the temperature we cancause changes. But Dani García wasalready working along those lines.We Spanish chefs are fairly honestand don’t like to step on eachother’stoes, so I chose another path, that ofgellifiers, thickeners, etc. That waswhat elBulli was doing at the time.”Oriol Castro, Ferrán Adrià’s right-hand man, explains some of theresearch being done over the last fewyears. “Not only did we work withoil texturized by cold treatment, asin 1999 we developed butter basedon this technique, but we alsofocused on thickeners. In 2006, wecreated an extra virgin olive oilcaviar using alginate, a thickenermade from seaweed. We are alsocarrying out spherification with olivewater. Spherification results in anolive-sized mouthful that containsthe water from a dozen olives. Theflavor is really amazing.”After seeing how some of thesetechniques were being applied in theelBulli workshop, Roncero decidedto work on a specific line of research.His first creation was the extra virgin

olive oil gum drop. “The process isperfectly simple. First you make asyrup with sugar and mix in theolive oil. Then you add a sheet ofgelatin and leave it to cool. When wedid this hot, the sugars separatedfrom the oils, so we decided to use amayonnaise technique. Now we aremaking gum drops with differentflavors using fruit juices, such aspassion fruit.” And here Roncero laysdown one of the rules of the game.“When you make dishes based onextra virgin olive oil, you have toadd something to clean the palate: acold soup, something acidic, etc.”But things had only just started.From then on, toiling in theworkshop built on the Casinopremises, Roncero gradually startedusing different thickeners. The firstwas cocoa butter. “I love going to arestaurant and being served butterwith my bread, so I thought wecould replace the butter with oliveoil, a much healthier option. Thatled me to the idea of creating an

olive oil butter with a techniquedifferent to that of elBulli. We didlots of tests and eventually ended upwith a mixture of oil heated to 35ºC(95ºF) and 10% cocoa butter.” In hisrestaurant, this butter is served intoothpaste tubes, just for fun.Roncero places great importance onthe varieties of oil he uses in hismenus. “People are used to cookingwith extra virgin olive oil, but weneed to go a step further. I think weshould focus on the types of oliveused. An Arbequina olive is not thesame as a Picual or a Picudo. Theflavors and aromas are completelydifferent, and you can say the samefor the region they come from. AnAndalusian Arbequina oil is verydifferent from one produced inCatalonia. We always try to ensurethat the extra virgin olive oil we usematches the dishes we offer.”One of Roncero’s simplest and mostmasterly creations is, without adoubt, his spherified tomato. Basedon the same ingredients that Dani

García uses for his olive oil popcornwith tomato–raf tomato water, extravirgin olive oil and salt–this Madrid-born chef achieves a completelydifferent result by applying adifferent technique. Using alginate asa thickener, Roncero has created agelatinous sphere containing tomatowater and extra virgin olive oil insuspension. If the Mediterranean hada flavor, this would probably be it.Methylcellulose is another of thethickeners that features in theserecipes using extra virgin olive oil.But, unlike locust bean or xanthangums, it gels not with cold but withheat. This property was the key tocreating olive oil spaghetti. Based onJapanese soba soup, discoveredduring one of his visits to Tokyo,Roncero created some very unusualnoodles. He uses an emulsion ofextra virgin olive oil withmethylcellulose to create a creamwhich is injected into the hot soupusing a syringe to form perfectspaghetti. This same technique

A matter ofconsistencyIn addition to Dani García, theseminar ‘Andalusian cuisine andolive oil in the 21st century’ alsofeatured Paco Roncero, one of FerránAdrià’s star pupils who is making hismark today on the cuisine at LaTerraza del Casino in Madrid (Spain

JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 25

OLIVE OIL

COLORS

Paco Roncero

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24 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

long–in search of optimal frying

conditions. All deep fryers have a

USB port so the temperature can be

controlled very precisely. “We’re

going to study the effect of different

temperatures on the olive oil so that

we can develop an olive oil blend

that is special for frying,” adds

García del Moral. But temperature is

not the whole story.

Gourmetour No. 71). At the start ofhis presentation, Roncero explainedhow he started out experimentingwith extra virgin olive oil. “I wasasked by the food writer José CarlosCapel to speak at one of the firstMadrid Fusion congresses. I was abit reluctant at first but thoughtabout it and realized that if we wantto be creative chefs, we should neverset limits to what can or cannot bedone.”Roncero’s first ideas take us back tothe early 1980s, to the inroads beingmade by Berasategui and AngeGarcía. “If we place a bottle of oil inthe fridge, its texture changes, so justby altering the temperature we cancause changes. But Dani García wasalready working along those lines.We Spanish chefs are fairly honestand don’t like to step on eachother’stoes, so I chose another path, that ofgellifiers, thickeners, etc. That waswhat elBulli was doing at the time.”Oriol Castro, Ferrán Adrià’s right-hand man, explains some of theresearch being done over the last fewyears. “Not only did we work withoil texturized by cold treatment, asin 1999 we developed butter basedon this technique, but we alsofocused on thickeners. In 2006, wecreated an extra virgin olive oilcaviar using alginate, a thickenermade from seaweed. We are alsocarrying out spherification with olivewater. Spherification results in anolive-sized mouthful that containsthe water from a dozen olives. Theflavor is really amazing.”After seeing how some of thesetechniques were being applied in theelBulli workshop, Roncero decidedto work on a specific line of research.His first creation was the extra virgin

olive oil gum drop. “The process isperfectly simple. First you make asyrup with sugar and mix in theolive oil. Then you add a sheet ofgelatin and leave it to cool. When wedid this hot, the sugars separatedfrom the oils, so we decided to use amayonnaise technique. Now we aremaking gum drops with differentflavors using fruit juices, such aspassion fruit.” And here Roncero laysdown one of the rules of the game.“When you make dishes based onextra virgin olive oil, you have toadd something to clean the palate: acold soup, something acidic, etc.”But things had only just started.From then on, toiling in theworkshop built on the Casinopremises, Roncero gradually startedusing different thickeners. The firstwas cocoa butter. “I love going to arestaurant and being served butterwith my bread, so I thought wecould replace the butter with oliveoil, a much healthier option. Thatled me to the idea of creating an

olive oil butter with a techniquedifferent to that of elBulli. We didlots of tests and eventually ended upwith a mixture of oil heated to 35ºC(95ºF) and 10% cocoa butter.” In hisrestaurant, this butter is served intoothpaste tubes, just for fun.Roncero places great importance onthe varieties of oil he uses in hismenus. “People are used to cookingwith extra virgin olive oil, but weneed to go a step further. I think weshould focus on the types of oliveused. An Arbequina olive is not thesame as a Picual or a Picudo. Theflavors and aromas are completelydifferent, and you can say the samefor the region they come from. AnAndalusian Arbequina oil is verydifferent from one produced inCatalonia. We always try to ensurethat the extra virgin olive oil we usematches the dishes we offer.”One of Roncero’s simplest and mostmasterly creations is, without adoubt, his spherified tomato. Basedon the same ingredients that Dani

García uses for his olive oil popcornwith tomato–raf tomato water, extravirgin olive oil and salt–this Madrid-born chef achieves a completelydifferent result by applying adifferent technique. Using alginate asa thickener, Roncero has created agelatinous sphere containing tomatowater and extra virgin olive oil insuspension. If the Mediterranean hada flavor, this would probably be it.Methylcellulose is another of thethickeners that features in theserecipes using extra virgin olive oil.But, unlike locust bean or xanthangums, it gels not with cold but withheat. This property was the key tocreating olive oil spaghetti. Based onJapanese soba soup, discoveredduring one of his visits to Tokyo,Roncero created some very unusualnoodles. He uses an emulsion ofextra virgin olive oil withmethylcellulose to create a creamwhich is injected into the hot soupusing a syringe to form perfectspaghetti. This same technique

A matter ofconsistencyIn addition to Dani García, theseminar ‘Andalusian cuisine andolive oil in the 21st century’ alsofeatured Paco Roncero, one of FerránAdrià’s star pupils who is making hismark today on the cuisine at LaTerraza del Casino in Madrid (Spain

JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 25

OLIVE OIL

COLORS

Paco Roncero

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26 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 27

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Technique: Gelling agents and thickeners

Undoubtedly one of the main exponents of contemporary cuisine using extra virgin olive oil, Roncero hasdeveloped a whole menu focusing on olive oil, from starters (oil butter, spherification of tomato water with olive oil,tanned oil, olive oil treated with liquid nitrogen) to desserts (orange sorbet with olive oil, olive oil gum drops, choco-oil lollipops) and including main dishes (Japanese soba soup with olive oil noodles, coulant of olive juice, Norwaylobster with quinoa and oil honey, lobster in oil soup). Today, as chef at El Casino de Madrid, he is also working ona range of olive oil jams. “So far we have produced tomato, Seville orange, banana, passion fruit, pineapple andstrawberry jams, all with olive oil, and we’re currently working on how to market them.” Roncero’s fascination forextra virgin olive oil has even led him to consider the possibility of offering his customers a mini-olive press fromwhich they can extract their own olive oil at the table.

Olive oil rice with lobsterThis recipe is the result of our research into extra virgin olive oil and how it interacts with different food additives, inthis case, with methylcellulose. The idea was to create what looked like a very traditional rice dish but replacing therice with grains of olive oil.

SERVES 41 kg / 2 1/4 lb lobster; 1 bundle wild asparagus; 100 g / 3 1/2 oz cauliflower.

For the paella stock: 100 g / 3 1/2 oz fish; 100 g / 3 1/2 oz sea crab; 10 g / 1/3 oz parsley; 5 g / 1/6 oz garlic,peeled; 20 g / 1 oz red salad tomato; 1 g / 0.03 oz sweet pimentón (a type of paprika from Spain); 50 ml / 4 tbspextra virgin olive oil (acidity 0.4º); 250 ml / 1 1/8 cups water; 50 g / 2 oz onion; 10 g / 1/3 oz bomba rice.

For the rice water: 500 ml / 2 1/6 cups water; 20 g / 1 oz Arborio rice; 5 g / 1/6 oz salt.

For the methylcellulose base: 80 ml / 1/3 cup water; 2 g / 0.07 oz methylcellulose.

For the tears of olive oil rice: 50 ml / 4 tbsp of the water and methylcellulose base; 150 ml / 2/3 cups Arbequinaextra virgin olive oil; 100 ml / 1/2 cup rice water; 2 g / 0.07 oz saffron strands; 5 g / 1/6 oz salt.

LobsterPlace the lobster in boiling salted water for 1 minute, then refresh in ice water. Remove the claws, return the bodyto the same water and cook for approximately 6 minutes. Shell the body and the claws and chill the flesh. Keepthe shells and the head for the paella stock.

Paella stockFry the crabs in a paella pan and set aside. Fry the fish and the lobster trimmingsand set aside. Fry some of the garlic, pimentón, tomatoes and parsley. When soft,add the crab and fish and cover with water. Simmer gently for about 15 minutes.Strain and set aside. Fry the onion, add the remaining garlic, tomatoes andpimentón and gently fry together for one hour. Add the strained stock and the riceand cook for about 25 minutes until the rice is overdone. Blend in the blender,season with salt and strain.

Rice waterBring the salted water to a boil and add the Arborio rice. Simmer for 30 minutes,then strain through a wire strainer. Leave to cool.

Methylcellulose basePlace the water and the methylcellulose in a blender and blend until a gluey pasteforms. Transfer to a container, cover and chill for at least 24 hours so that themethylcellulose becomes fully hydrated.

Tears of olive oil riceMix the rice water with the salt and the water and methylcellulose base. Emulsify with the Arbequina extra virginolive oil and add the saffron strands. Transfer the mixture to a syringe, and squirt drop by drop into the hot paellastock to gel and form the olive oil rice. Keep hot until finished.

Mini-asparagusRemove the small shoots around the asparagus bud and peel. Blanch in boiling salted water and then refresh iniced water. Dry between sheets of cellulose and chill.

CauliflowerRemove tiny shoots from the cauliflower. Blanch in boiling salted water and then refresh in iced water. Drybetween sheets of cellulose and chill.

TO FINISHSauté the tears of extra virgin olive oil in a non-stick skillet and gradually moisten with paella stock. Place thelobster body in the boiling paella stock, cover and boil for 2 minutes. Sauté the mini-asparagus and the cauliflowerand add to the paella pan.

TO SERVEArrange 3 lobster medallions on the dish forming a triangle, then add the tears of olive oil rice with the vegetablesin the center. Finish with a few vegetable shoots.

Preparation time60-90 minutes

Cooking time15 minutes

Recommended wineMaría José Huertas, La Terraza del Casino’s award-winning sommelier (Sommelier L´Avenir 2005), suggests Juvé& Camps Millesimé 2001 to bring out the flavors and refresh the mouth. “It’s a cava with a light toasty color and anose of white fruit, apple and fine toast.”

P A C O R O N C E R O

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Technique: Gelling agents and thickeners

Undoubtedly one of the main exponents of contemporary cuisine using extra virgin olive oil, Roncero hasdeveloped a whole menu focusing on olive oil, from starters (oil butter, spherification of tomato water with olive oil,tanned oil, olive oil treated with liquid nitrogen) to desserts (orange sorbet with olive oil, olive oil gum drops, choco-oil lollipops) and including main dishes (Japanese soba soup with olive oil noodles, coulant of olive juice, Norwaylobster with quinoa and oil honey, lobster in oil soup). Today, as chef at El Casino de Madrid, he is also working ona range of olive oil jams. “So far we have produced tomato, Seville orange, banana, passion fruit, pineapple andstrawberry jams, all with olive oil, and we’re currently working on how to market them.” Roncero’s fascination forextra virgin olive oil has even led him to consider the possibility of offering his customers a mini-olive press fromwhich they can extract their own olive oil at the table.

Olive oil rice with lobsterThis recipe is the result of our research into extra virgin olive oil and how it interacts with different food additives, inthis case, with methylcellulose. The idea was to create what looked like a very traditional rice dish but replacing therice with grains of olive oil.

SERVES 41 kg / 2 1/4 lb lobster; 1 bundle wild asparagus; 100 g / 3 1/2 oz cauliflower.

For the paella stock: 100 g / 3 1/2 oz fish; 100 g / 3 1/2 oz sea crab; 10 g / 1/3 oz parsley; 5 g / 1/6 oz garlic,peeled; 20 g / 1 oz red salad tomato; 1 g / 0.03 oz sweet pimentón (a type of paprika from Spain); 50 ml / 4 tbspextra virgin olive oil (acidity 0.4º); 250 ml / 1 1/8 cups water; 50 g / 2 oz onion; 10 g / 1/3 oz bomba rice.

For the rice water: 500 ml / 2 1/6 cups water; 20 g / 1 oz Arborio rice; 5 g / 1/6 oz salt.

For the methylcellulose base: 80 ml / 1/3 cup water; 2 g / 0.07 oz methylcellulose.

For the tears of olive oil rice: 50 ml / 4 tbsp of the water and methylcellulose base; 150 ml / 2/3 cups Arbequinaextra virgin olive oil; 100 ml / 1/2 cup rice water; 2 g / 0.07 oz saffron strands; 5 g / 1/6 oz salt.

LobsterPlace the lobster in boiling salted water for 1 minute, then refresh in ice water. Remove the claws, return the bodyto the same water and cook for approximately 6 minutes. Shell the body and the claws and chill the flesh. Keepthe shells and the head for the paella stock.

Paella stockFry the crabs in a paella pan and set aside. Fry the fish and the lobster trimmingsand set aside. Fry some of the garlic, pimentón, tomatoes and parsley. When soft,add the crab and fish and cover with water. Simmer gently for about 15 minutes.Strain and set aside. Fry the onion, add the remaining garlic, tomatoes andpimentón and gently fry together for one hour. Add the strained stock and the riceand cook for about 25 minutes until the rice is overdone. Blend in the blender,season with salt and strain.

Rice waterBring the salted water to a boil and add the Arborio rice. Simmer for 30 minutes,then strain through a wire strainer. Leave to cool.

Methylcellulose basePlace the water and the methylcellulose in a blender and blend until a gluey pasteforms. Transfer to a container, cover and chill for at least 24 hours so that themethylcellulose becomes fully hydrated.

Tears of olive oil riceMix the rice water with the salt and the water and methylcellulose base. Emulsify with the Arbequina extra virginolive oil and add the saffron strands. Transfer the mixture to a syringe, and squirt drop by drop into the hot paellastock to gel and form the olive oil rice. Keep hot until finished.

Mini-asparagusRemove the small shoots around the asparagus bud and peel. Blanch in boiling salted water and then refresh iniced water. Dry between sheets of cellulose and chill.

CauliflowerRemove tiny shoots from the cauliflower. Blanch in boiling salted water and then refresh in iced water. Drybetween sheets of cellulose and chill.

TO FINISHSauté the tears of extra virgin olive oil in a non-stick skillet and gradually moisten with paella stock. Place thelobster body in the boiling paella stock, cover and boil for 2 minutes. Sauté the mini-asparagus and the cauliflowerand add to the paella pan.

TO SERVEArrange 3 lobster medallions on the dish forming a triangle, then add the tears of olive oil rice with the vegetablesin the center. Finish with a few vegetable shoots.

Preparation time60-90 minutes

Cooking time15 minutes

Recommended wineMaría José Huertas, La Terraza del Casino’s award-winning sommelier (Sommelier L´Avenir 2005), suggests Juvé& Camps Millesimé 2001 to bring out the flavors and refresh the mouth. “It’s a cava with a light toasty color and anose of white fruit, apple and fine toast.”

P A C O R O N C E R O

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allows him to create one of the mostscandalously unorthodox paellas inliving memory (See recipe, page 26).Another unexpected creation is oliveoil parmesan. Here the technique isvery different. The key is to replacethe animal fats in the cheese withextra virgin olive oil. The resultingcream is very similar to ExtremaduranTorta del Casar or Torta del Serenacheeses. This process borders onanother of the most fertile territoriesamongst the new applications forextra virgin olive oil.

The perfectsubstituteAt the ‘5th International meeting oncooking with extra virgin olive oil’,

held at the end of June last year atthe Laguna Hotel and CateringSchool in Jaén, in the heart of theAndalusian olive groves, culinaryschools from all over Europe–fromItaly to Bulgaria–gavedemonstrations on the versatility ofextra virgin olive oil. When the turncame for the York Hotel andCatering School (United Kingdom),the chef Pietro Salvatore surprisedthe audience with what seemedsomething of a gastronomicsacrilege: chocolate pudding madefrom olive oil instead of butter. All ofa sudden, a traditional Anglo-Saxondessert adopted a Mediterraneanpose. But this is not the only case.Together with Jordi Butrón, XanoSaguer is one of the founders of

Espaisucre, the world’s first center tocombine a school and a restaurantfor desserts. When considering thenew trends for using olive oil, Sagueragrees with Roncero that it isessential to cast off any prejudices.“We look at patisserie abstractly. Weanalyze each ingredient’s functionand see how they work. That meantwe’ve had no doubts about usingolive oil as a substitute for butter.”And this approach is based on abasic motivation. “We patissiers nolonger just interpret recipes, wecreate them.” At Espaisucre, theyhave worked with olive oil icecream, olive oil gum drops and cakesusing a Manzanilla olive cream, andthey have created olive oil clouds (anupdate on the classic marshmallow),but Saguer insists that the presenceof olive oil should meet the needs ofa recipe without being conditionedby culinary tradition. “What isfundamental is the flavor, and that’swhat we’re most interested in whenwe use olive oil. And, in my opinion,we often forget how important thevariety can be. We tend to preferPicual oil because of its power andintensity.”In Elda (Alicante), the Totelpatisserie, bastion of PacoTorreblanca–considered by the pressto be one of the world’s best pastrychefs–uses the same technique butfor a different purpose. As thephilosopher said, I agree, but foropposite reasons. “For the last twoyears or so, we have been replacingbutter–or some of it–especially in thecream inside chocolates. What wecare about most is texture. Olive oilis a fat that crystallizes in a differentway, whereas butter hardens with thecold. With oil, the product takesmuch longer to oxidize so the

texture is much creamier andelastic,” says Torreblanca during theintroduction for a chocolate tastingsession held in Madrid. And he adds,“Obviously, we are also interested incertain aspects of flavor. Dependingon where the chocolate comes from,we decide on the variety of extravirgin olive oil we want, on whetherwe want more or less fruitiness. Weuse Arbequina, Picual andHojiblanca, but mostly Arbequinabecause of its smoothness and fruityflavor. We’ve discovered some veryinteresting Andalusian Arbequinaoils. And sometimes, in chocolateswith 80% cocoa, we use Picual.” Aswith many of the other newapplications of olive oil, decisionsare made on the basis of soundtechnical arguments, rather thanpersonal preference. “What we needto do is to unify the vegetableingredients. If we use butter, we areadding an animal fat, whereas if wemix cocoa butter and olive oil we arecombining vegetable fats, so we get amore harmonious result.” SoRoncero added cocoa butter to oliveoil, and Torreblanca adds olive oil tochocolate. Their paths meet onceagain.Together with Paco Torreblanca,other companies are now alsoquestioning the sovereign positionof butter in the production ofchocolates. One such case is theCatalonian Cacao Sampaka, whichhas recently introduced a range ofchocolates using olive oil.But the world of patisserie is not theonly one in which animal fats aregiving way to extra virgin olive oil.The Andalusian government has setup an R&D complex that focusesexclusively on olive oil called Geolit,the Olive Oil and Olive Cultivation

Paco Torreblanca

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allows him to create one of the mostscandalously unorthodox paellas inliving memory (See recipe, page 26).Another unexpected creation is oliveoil parmesan. Here the technique isvery different. The key is to replacethe animal fats in the cheese withextra virgin olive oil. The resultingcream is very similar to ExtremaduranTorta del Casar or Torta del Serenacheeses. This process borders onanother of the most fertile territoriesamongst the new applications forextra virgin olive oil.

The perfectsubstituteAt the ‘5th International meeting oncooking with extra virgin olive oil’,

held at the end of June last year atthe Laguna Hotel and CateringSchool in Jaén, in the heart of theAndalusian olive groves, culinaryschools from all over Europe–fromItaly to Bulgaria–gavedemonstrations on the versatility ofextra virgin olive oil. When the turncame for the York Hotel andCatering School (United Kingdom),the chef Pietro Salvatore surprisedthe audience with what seemedsomething of a gastronomicsacrilege: chocolate pudding madefrom olive oil instead of butter. All ofa sudden, a traditional Anglo-Saxondessert adopted a Mediterraneanpose. But this is not the only case.Together with Jordi Butrón, XanoSaguer is one of the founders of

Espaisucre, the world’s first center tocombine a school and a restaurantfor desserts. When considering thenew trends for using olive oil, Sagueragrees with Roncero that it isessential to cast off any prejudices.“We look at patisserie abstractly. Weanalyze each ingredient’s functionand see how they work. That meantwe’ve had no doubts about usingolive oil as a substitute for butter.”And this approach is based on abasic motivation. “We patissiers nolonger just interpret recipes, wecreate them.” At Espaisucre, theyhave worked with olive oil icecream, olive oil gum drops and cakesusing a Manzanilla olive cream, andthey have created olive oil clouds (anupdate on the classic marshmallow),but Saguer insists that the presenceof olive oil should meet the needs ofa recipe without being conditionedby culinary tradition. “What isfundamental is the flavor, and that’swhat we’re most interested in whenwe use olive oil. And, in my opinion,we often forget how important thevariety can be. We tend to preferPicual oil because of its power andintensity.”In Elda (Alicante), the Totelpatisserie, bastion of PacoTorreblanca–considered by the pressto be one of the world’s best pastrychefs–uses the same technique butfor a different purpose. As thephilosopher said, I agree, but foropposite reasons. “For the last twoyears or so, we have been replacingbutter–or some of it–especially in thecream inside chocolates. What wecare about most is texture. Olive oilis a fat that crystallizes in a differentway, whereas butter hardens with thecold. With oil, the product takesmuch longer to oxidize so the

texture is much creamier andelastic,” says Torreblanca during theintroduction for a chocolate tastingsession held in Madrid. And he adds,“Obviously, we are also interested incertain aspects of flavor. Dependingon where the chocolate comes from,we decide on the variety of extravirgin olive oil we want, on whetherwe want more or less fruitiness. Weuse Arbequina, Picual andHojiblanca, but mostly Arbequinabecause of its smoothness and fruityflavor. We’ve discovered some veryinteresting Andalusian Arbequinaoils. And sometimes, in chocolateswith 80% cocoa, we use Picual.” Aswith many of the other newapplications of olive oil, decisionsare made on the basis of soundtechnical arguments, rather thanpersonal preference. “What we needto do is to unify the vegetableingredients. If we use butter, we areadding an animal fat, whereas if wemix cocoa butter and olive oil we arecombining vegetable fats, so we get amore harmonious result.” SoRoncero added cocoa butter to oliveoil, and Torreblanca adds olive oil tochocolate. Their paths meet onceagain.Together with Paco Torreblanca,other companies are now alsoquestioning the sovereign positionof butter in the production ofchocolates. One such case is theCatalonian Cacao Sampaka, whichhas recently introduced a range ofchocolates using olive oil.But the world of patisserie is not theonly one in which animal fats aregiving way to extra virgin olive oil.The Andalusian government has setup an R&D complex that focusesexclusively on olive oil called Geolit,the Olive Oil and Olive Cultivation

Paco Torreblanca

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Science and Technology Park. Citolivais a foundation that operates withinthis park, advising companies onways in which olive oil can be used intheir production processes. Its starprogram is Olivissimo, which hasdeveloped a worldwide patent forreplacing animal fats with extra virginolive oil. Since 2005, severalAndalusian companies in the meatsector have decided to take part inthis initiative. La Real Carolina, whichproduces top-of-the-range pâtés, andCrismona, an agri-food company, aretwo examples of companies that havelaunched product ranges under theOlivissimo label. “Not only are theydeveloping healthier products, butthey are also opening new doors forselling olive oil,” says AntonioGuzmán, manager of Citoliva.However, even though extra virginolive oil has health benefits, there arestill challenges to be faced.

A stable relationshipOil and water have always been usedas an allegory of incompatibility.However hard you try, they willalways end up separating. Even thesimple act of making a vinaigrettegoes against nature. Just a fewminutes after making it, theingredients will have separated.As we have seen, chefs have searchedfor ways to get around this problem.They use thickeners and emulsionagents, such as soy lecithin, but inmost cases these bring with themunwanted flavors, do not achievestable emulsions or require thermaltreatments that affect the quality of theoil. That was until the arrival of aerosil.José Luis Navas, from the restaurantLa Espadaña in Jaén, and JuanGutiérrez, from the Bodegas CampoR&D laboratory, yet again under the

watchful eye of García del Moral, areinvestigating applications of thissilex mineral which could be thenew Holy Grail of creative cuisine.Top-ranking chefs such as FerranAdrià and Quique Dacosta arecurrently trying out culinaryapplications with aerosil. Thenanoparticles of this colloidal silexdioxide are odorless, colorless andtasteless and can be applied inmicroscopic amounts to achieve

OLIVE OIL

COLORS

30 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

Technique: Substitution of olive oil for animal fats

Torreblanca has been using olive oil in his cakes for many years, but in chocolatesthis is a fairly new initiative. “In addition to the chocolates we make entirely of oliveoil, we are now using it for the fillings in others such as our tea and pepperchocolates.” The elasticity and smoothness of olive oil make it useful in otherapplications as well. He hints, “We also use olive oil in the chocolate covering forcakes, as it prevents cracks.”

Olive oil chocolateI always thought extra virgin olive oil would go well with chocolate so, in some of ourrecipes, we use it instead of butter. The olive oil chocolate is a good examplebecause of its amazing textures, creaminess and flavor.

FOR ABOUT 75 CHOCOLATES180 g / 6 oz cream (32% fat content); 30 g / 1 oz glucose 42 DE; 200 g / 7 ozMadagascar 64% covering; 200 g / 7 oz Callebaut white chocolate covering; 100 g/ 3 1/2 oz Arbequina extra virgin olive oil.

Mix the cream and glucose and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat. When thetemperature drops to approximately 80ºC (176ºF), pour onto the chocolatecoverings to melt them. Mix until smooth. At 35ºC (95ºF), add the Arbequina extravirgin olive oil and stir in carefully. Pour the mixture into a chocolate frame and leaveto set for 12 hours at a temperature of 16ºC (60.8ºF). Brush with chocolate on oneside and cut into squares of the desired size. Coat with the warm covering. Keepthe chocolates at a temperature of 12-14ºC (53.6-57.2ºF), with humidity between50-60%.

Preparation time60 minutes

Recommended wineIn the opinion of Manel Pla, Spain’s best sommelier of 2001, the higher theproportion of cocoa, the headier and fruitier the wine should be. He suggests aPedro Ximénez, or a Muscatel or raisin wine. “The tannins in the chocolate offset thewine’s fruity flavors, balancing and rounding off the alcohol content and ripe fruits.”

P A C O T O R R E B L A N C A

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Science and Technology Park. Citolivais a foundation that operates withinthis park, advising companies onways in which olive oil can be used intheir production processes. Its starprogram is Olivissimo, which hasdeveloped a worldwide patent forreplacing animal fats with extra virginolive oil. Since 2005, severalAndalusian companies in the meatsector have decided to take part inthis initiative. La Real Carolina, whichproduces top-of-the-range pâtés, andCrismona, an agri-food company, aretwo examples of companies that havelaunched product ranges under theOlivissimo label. “Not only are theydeveloping healthier products, butthey are also opening new doors forselling olive oil,” says AntonioGuzmán, manager of Citoliva.However, even though extra virginolive oil has health benefits, there arestill challenges to be faced.

A stable relationshipOil and water have always been usedas an allegory of incompatibility.However hard you try, they willalways end up separating. Even thesimple act of making a vinaigrettegoes against nature. Just a fewminutes after making it, theingredients will have separated.As we have seen, chefs have searchedfor ways to get around this problem.They use thickeners and emulsionagents, such as soy lecithin, but inmost cases these bring with themunwanted flavors, do not achievestable emulsions or require thermaltreatments that affect the quality of theoil. That was until the arrival of aerosil.José Luis Navas, from the restaurantLa Espadaña in Jaén, and JuanGutiérrez, from the Bodegas CampoR&D laboratory, yet again under the

watchful eye of García del Moral, areinvestigating applications of thissilex mineral which could be thenew Holy Grail of creative cuisine.Top-ranking chefs such as FerranAdrià and Quique Dacosta arecurrently trying out culinaryapplications with aerosil. Thenanoparticles of this colloidal silexdioxide are odorless, colorless andtasteless and can be applied inmicroscopic amounts to achieve

OLIVE OIL

COLORS

30 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

Technique: Substitution of olive oil for animal fats

Torreblanca has been using olive oil in his cakes for many years, but in chocolatesthis is a fairly new initiative. “In addition to the chocolates we make entirely of oliveoil, we are now using it for the fillings in others such as our tea and pepperchocolates.” The elasticity and smoothness of olive oil make it useful in otherapplications as well. He hints, “We also use olive oil in the chocolate covering forcakes, as it prevents cracks.”

Olive oil chocolateI always thought extra virgin olive oil would go well with chocolate so, in some of ourrecipes, we use it instead of butter. The olive oil chocolate is a good examplebecause of its amazing textures, creaminess and flavor.

FOR ABOUT 75 CHOCOLATES180 g / 6 oz cream (32% fat content); 30 g / 1 oz glucose 42 DE; 200 g / 7 ozMadagascar 64% covering; 200 g / 7 oz Callebaut white chocolate covering; 100 g/ 3 1/2 oz Arbequina extra virgin olive oil.

Mix the cream and glucose and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat. When thetemperature drops to approximately 80ºC (176ºF), pour onto the chocolatecoverings to melt them. Mix until smooth. At 35ºC (95ºF), add the Arbequina extravirgin olive oil and stir in carefully. Pour the mixture into a chocolate frame and leaveto set for 12 hours at a temperature of 16ºC (60.8ºF). Brush with chocolate on oneside and cut into squares of the desired size. Coat with the warm covering. Keepthe chocolates at a temperature of 12-14ºC (53.6-57.2ºF), with humidity between50-60%.

Preparation time60 minutes

Recommended wineIn the opinion of Manel Pla, Spain’s best sommelier of 2001, the higher theproportion of cocoa, the headier and fruitier the wine should be. He suggests aPedro Ximénez, or a Muscatel or raisin wine. “The tannins in the chocolate offset thewine’s fruity flavors, balancing and rounding off the alcohol content and ripe fruits.”

P A C O T O R R E B L A N C A

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JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 33

emulsions never imagined before.The public presentation of aerosiltook place at the congress ‘Long livevegetables’ held in Navarre last May,when García del Moral, Navas andGutiérrez revealed some of itsqualities. By changing the amountused and the temperature, theyshowed that it is possible to create astable foam, like a purée.In combination with extra virginolive oil, aerosil opens up a hugerange of options. Because of thethickening qualities has aerosil whenits temperature is raised, Navas hascreated another version of the elBulliessential olive. First he liquidizes ablack olive paste and thickens it byadding aerosil. When it’s cold, heforms an emulsion with olive oiluntil the consistency and shape of anolive are obtained.One of the most interestingapplications of aerosil is perhapsaromatization of olive oil withoutusing maceration techniques ortemperature changes. “The endresult is amazing. All you need to dois add a liquidized fruit or vegetableto extra virgin olive oil, add a tinyproportion of aerosil, mix it in theblender and leave it to stand for 20minutes. The water separates fromthe olive oil but the aromaticparticles remain in the oil. This givesus a solution with the same colorand flavor as the oil, but with theessential aromas of the liquidizedsubstance we added.” If the liquid isfirst heated with aerosil and then leftto cool before emulsifying with theextra virgin olive oil, the result is aperfect blend of the two liquids.These techniques make it possible toprepare recipes such as a green lemon

sorbet with an emulsion of olive oilwith gin, juniper, pineapple andorange, or mackerel in a warm cavapickle sauce with an emulsion ofgarlic, tomatoes, green olives and lime.At La Espadaña they also offer extravirgin olive oil tasting sessions and,after deciding the predominant notes(fennel, tomato, olive leaves andalmond), a liquid made from theappropriate plant is added to bringout the oil’s natural flavors.So aerosil allows chefs to extract allthe aroma and flavor of a productand transfer it to olive oil.

Aromatization of olive oil wascarried out in ancient times bymaceration and infusion, butrecently the process is undergoingmany innovations.

Aromatized olive oilIs it possible to cook with charcoalaromas without the coal? This was thequestion asked by Francis Paniego,chef at Echaurren in Ezcaray (LaRioja) and advisor to the Marqués deRiscal Ciudad del Vino restaurantdesigned by Frank Gehry in La Rioja.

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32 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

“About five years ago we had aproblem. We wanted to use vinewood to aromatize meat but we didn’thave grills, so we thought of usingaromatized olive oil, and that washow we devised wood-flavored oils.”Paniego’s research in this field startedout through a collaboration withBodegas Roda in La Rioja todetermine how oaky aromas aretransferred to wine from the barrel.“At Bodegas Roda, we developed anempirical formula which we appliedto other types of wood such as holmoak and beech, as well as oak andvine wood. We then tried to transferthe aromas of different types of woodto oil by combustion inside a pressurecooker (See recipe, page 34). Thismethod, originally devised by FerránAdrià for his famous smoke foam,had to be changed a little for ourpurposes. He smoked water in a

pressure cooker and we swapped thewater for extra virgin olive oil.”After these experiments withpressure cookers, they thenexperimented with aromatizing oliveoil in a microwave. “The idea is totoast the wood in the microwave,making it very aromatic so that itworks like a cinnamon stick. Thenwe heat the olive oil and insert thewood, so it’s really a sort ofinfusion.” This method is muchfaster, but Paniego only uses it withless intense extra virgin olive oils.When asked to express hispreferences, Paniego is clear:“Arbequina, Hojiblanca andRedondal are the ones I use most. Ilove the olive oil produced in mylocal region and really like to useDauro oil.” Then he talks about theorigins of the different varieties.“Each area has its own magic. La

Rioja is a discovery, Catalonia andthe Balearics never fail and Jaén inAndalusia is elegance and balance.”Grupo Pons, a Catalonian companyfounded in 1945, has chosen adifferent path. The Mas Portell rangeof oils uses a crushing process thatextracts the essential oils from theskin of citrus fruits the same time theoil is extracted. For the time being itoffers two varieties, lemon andmandarin, but over the next fewmonths it plans to launch an extravirgin olive oil aromatized withorange. The citrus-aromatized MasPortell oils are excellent for saladsbut can also be used in desserts,chocolates and ice cream.

Olive oil cultureAll these innovations–liquidnitrogen, aerosil and new crushingmethods–form part of a much bigger

Francis Paniego

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emulsions never imagined before.The public presentation of aerosiltook place at the congress ‘Long livevegetables’ held in Navarre last May,when García del Moral, Navas andGutiérrez revealed some of itsqualities. By changing the amountused and the temperature, theyshowed that it is possible to create astable foam, like a purée.In combination with extra virginolive oil, aerosil opens up a hugerange of options. Because of thethickening qualities has aerosil whenits temperature is raised, Navas hascreated another version of the elBulliessential olive. First he liquidizes ablack olive paste and thickens it byadding aerosil. When it’s cold, heforms an emulsion with olive oiluntil the consistency and shape of anolive are obtained.One of the most interestingapplications of aerosil is perhapsaromatization of olive oil withoutusing maceration techniques ortemperature changes. “The endresult is amazing. All you need to dois add a liquidized fruit or vegetableto extra virgin olive oil, add a tinyproportion of aerosil, mix it in theblender and leave it to stand for 20minutes. The water separates fromthe olive oil but the aromaticparticles remain in the oil. This givesus a solution with the same colorand flavor as the oil, but with theessential aromas of the liquidizedsubstance we added.” If the liquid isfirst heated with aerosil and then leftto cool before emulsifying with theextra virgin olive oil, the result is aperfect blend of the two liquids.These techniques make it possible toprepare recipes such as a green lemon

sorbet with an emulsion of olive oilwith gin, juniper, pineapple andorange, or mackerel in a warm cavapickle sauce with an emulsion ofgarlic, tomatoes, green olives and lime.At La Espadaña they also offer extravirgin olive oil tasting sessions and,after deciding the predominant notes(fennel, tomato, olive leaves andalmond), a liquid made from theappropriate plant is added to bringout the oil’s natural flavors.So aerosil allows chefs to extract allthe aroma and flavor of a productand transfer it to olive oil.

Aromatization of olive oil wascarried out in ancient times bymaceration and infusion, butrecently the process is undergoingmany innovations.

Aromatized olive oilIs it possible to cook with charcoalaromas without the coal? This was thequestion asked by Francis Paniego,chef at Echaurren in Ezcaray (LaRioja) and advisor to the Marqués deRiscal Ciudad del Vino restaurantdesigned by Frank Gehry in La Rioja.

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COLORS

32 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

“About five years ago we had aproblem. We wanted to use vinewood to aromatize meat but we didn’thave grills, so we thought of usingaromatized olive oil, and that washow we devised wood-flavored oils.”Paniego’s research in this field startedout through a collaboration withBodegas Roda in La Rioja todetermine how oaky aromas aretransferred to wine from the barrel.“At Bodegas Roda, we developed anempirical formula which we appliedto other types of wood such as holmoak and beech, as well as oak andvine wood. We then tried to transferthe aromas of different types of woodto oil by combustion inside a pressurecooker (See recipe, page 34). Thismethod, originally devised by FerránAdrià for his famous smoke foam,had to be changed a little for ourpurposes. He smoked water in a

pressure cooker and we swapped thewater for extra virgin olive oil.”After these experiments withpressure cookers, they thenexperimented with aromatizing oliveoil in a microwave. “The idea is totoast the wood in the microwave,making it very aromatic so that itworks like a cinnamon stick. Thenwe heat the olive oil and insert thewood, so it’s really a sort ofinfusion.” This method is muchfaster, but Paniego only uses it withless intense extra virgin olive oils.When asked to express hispreferences, Paniego is clear:“Arbequina, Hojiblanca andRedondal are the ones I use most. Ilove the olive oil produced in mylocal region and really like to useDauro oil.” Then he talks about theorigins of the different varieties.“Each area has its own magic. La

Rioja is a discovery, Catalonia andthe Balearics never fail and Jaén inAndalusia is elegance and balance.”Grupo Pons, a Catalonian companyfounded in 1945, has chosen adifferent path. The Mas Portell rangeof oils uses a crushing process thatextracts the essential oils from theskin of citrus fruits the same time theoil is extracted. For the time being itoffers two varieties, lemon andmandarin, but over the next fewmonths it plans to launch an extravirgin olive oil aromatized withorange. The citrus-aromatized MasPortell oils are excellent for saladsbut can also be used in desserts,chocolates and ice cream.

Olive oil cultureAll these innovations–liquidnitrogen, aerosil and new crushingmethods–form part of a much bigger

Francis Paniego

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picture. Olive oil is crossing frontiers(Spain Gourmetour No. 65) and iscrying out for a place of its own intoday’s cuisine. There are now manyrestaurants that offer trolleys of extravirgin olive oil for tasting by way ofaperitif, and themed menus based onextra virgin olive oil have become“the in thing”. “In the mid-1980s, wewere one of the first restaurants tooffer an olive oil trolley,” recalls the3-Michelin-star chef Pedro Subijana.“Back then, it was very difficult tofind artisan extra virgin olive oils,but today there is an amazing varietyof quality olive oils. We work with

Marqués de Valdueza and Pagos delOlivar. Every day we offer a specialolive oil.” Today the menu at hisrestaurant, Akelarre, also includesdishes such as olive oil pearls withan emulsion of liquidized pepper,and olive oil sorbets.Moreover, people are becomingincreasingly familiar with differentvarieties and brands of olive oil. JuanGutiérrez, from the restaurant Caféde Paris in Málaga, confirms thistrend. “Customers know more andmore about olive oil and some evenask for a specific brand.” At hisrestaurant, a selection of three olive

oils is offered as a starter. Perhapsone day extra virgin olive oil menuswill become as common as winelists. Certainly, the future prospectsfor extra virgin olive oil seem asbright as its past.

David Cánovas Williams has workedas a journalist in digital media and as afreelance translator. He was an internjournalist with Spain Gourmetouruntil September 2007.

34 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 35

OLIVE OIL

COLORS

Technique: Aromatization

Francis Paniego specializes in aromatizing extra virgin olive oil with different types of wood. One of his favorites isvine wood, reminiscent of roasts after the vine harvest and the flavor used in this recipe for veal cheek. Olive oilsmoked with vine wood also plays an important role in his ‘Vegetable ragout. Veal snout and Ceasar’s mushroombeneath wafers of confit of cardoon with king prawns smoked over vine wood’. Paniego reserves his holm oaksmoked oil for his ‘Grilled sea bass with clams and mushrooms over pumpkin’. For this Riojan chef, wood isconsidered to be an ingredient, alongside curry and other spices, thanks to olive oil’s capacity for retaining andconveying aromas.

Veal cheek cooked in olive oil aromatized with vine woodThe grapevine and vine wood are essential elements of our cuisine in La Rioja, and at Echaurren we often try usethis natural fuel, although the tall flames and short-lived embers do not make things easy. As a result, we havedeveloped a method of trapping the aromas of the wood and conveying them to a more versatile element whichcan then pass them on to the food. The means chosen is extra virgin olive oil, which also contributes its ownvirtues.

SERVES 48 veal cheeks; 1 kg / 2 1/4 lb vine wood; 1 l / 4 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil; 125 cl / 1/2 cup red wine; table salt.

For the cheek sauceCheek trimmings; 3 onions; 2 carrots; 1 leek; 1/2 head garlic; 3 black peppercorns; 1 bay leaf; clove; sprigparsley; 250 ml / 1 1/8 cups sherry brandy; 1 l / 4 1/4 cup red wine; 3 l / 13 cup meat stock; table salt to taste.

For the salad garnishRocket; red chard; lollo rosso; escarole; chervil; 3 spears green asparagus per person.

For the apple purée6 Reineta apples; 500 ml / 2 1/6 cups water; 100 g / 3 1/2 oz sugar; salt.

Olive oil aromatized with vine woodPlace the vine trimmings chopped in pieces in a large pressure cooker and set on fire. When burnt down to theembers, insert a metal container–you can use a cake tin with wires attached to form handles–containing the extravirgin olive oil. Cover the pressure cooker to smoke the olive oil for 45 minutes.

Veal cheeksWash the cheeks well, season and place in a vacuum pack with 500 ml / 2 1/6 cups extravirgin olive oil aromatized with vine wood and the red wine. Cook in a steam oven or a bain-marie at 70ºC /158ºF for 35 hours. Cool quickly, then extract the meat and set aside the juices.Cut into squares each weighing about 150 g / 5 1/2 oz, then sear in a non-stick skillet withsome extra virgin olive oil aromatized with vine wood so that the meat looks as if it was cookedover a griddle.

Veal cheek sauceSoak the cheek trimmings for about 4 hours to remove any blood. Meanwhile, gently fry theonions, carrots and leeks with the herbs and spices until they begin to turn brown. Add thetrimmings and fry together. Add the sherry brandy and the wine, leave to reduce, then add thejuices from the vacuum-cooking process together with the meat stock. Leave to reduce, thenstrain and bind.

Apple puréeMake a syrup with the water and sugar. When it begins to thicken, add the chopped apples. Leave to cook, thentexturize in the Thermomix. Season with salt to taste.

TO SERVEServe a quenelle of apple purée and top with the seared veal cheek. Arrange the salad to one side (a few leaves ofrocket, red chard, lollo rosso, escarole and chervil) with the sautéed green asparagus, and add some sauce.

Preparation time5 hours 10 minutes

Cooking time35 hours

Recommended wineFrancis Paniego himself, who created this dish, recommends Trasnocho by Fernando Remírez de Ganuza (DOCa Rioja).“It has the perfect combination of elegance, modernity and classicism for this dish, giving the ideal balance.”

F R A N C I S P A N I E G O

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picture. Olive oil is crossing frontiers(Spain Gourmetour No. 65) and iscrying out for a place of its own intoday’s cuisine. There are now manyrestaurants that offer trolleys of extravirgin olive oil for tasting by way ofaperitif, and themed menus based onextra virgin olive oil have become“the in thing”. “In the mid-1980s, wewere one of the first restaurants tooffer an olive oil trolley,” recalls the3-Michelin-star chef Pedro Subijana.“Back then, it was very difficult tofind artisan extra virgin olive oils,but today there is an amazing varietyof quality olive oils. We work with

Marqués de Valdueza and Pagos delOlivar. Every day we offer a specialolive oil.” Today the menu at hisrestaurant, Akelarre, also includesdishes such as olive oil pearls withan emulsion of liquidized pepper,and olive oil sorbets.Moreover, people are becomingincreasingly familiar with differentvarieties and brands of olive oil. JuanGutiérrez, from the restaurant Caféde Paris in Málaga, confirms thistrend. “Customers know more andmore about olive oil and some evenask for a specific brand.” At hisrestaurant, a selection of three olive

oils is offered as a starter. Perhapsone day extra virgin olive oil menuswill become as common as winelists. Certainly, the future prospectsfor extra virgin olive oil seem asbright as its past.

David Cánovas Williams has workedas a journalist in digital media and as afreelance translator. He was an internjournalist with Spain Gourmetouruntil September 2007.

34 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 35

OLIVE OIL

COLORS

Technique: Aromatization

Francis Paniego specializes in aromatizing extra virgin olive oil with different types of wood. One of his favorites isvine wood, reminiscent of roasts after the vine harvest and the flavor used in this recipe for veal cheek. Olive oilsmoked with vine wood also plays an important role in his ‘Vegetable ragout. Veal snout and Ceasar’s mushroombeneath wafers of confit of cardoon with king prawns smoked over vine wood’. Paniego reserves his holm oaksmoked oil for his ‘Grilled sea bass with clams and mushrooms over pumpkin’. For this Riojan chef, wood isconsidered to be an ingredient, alongside curry and other spices, thanks to olive oil’s capacity for retaining andconveying aromas.

Veal cheek cooked in olive oil aromatized with vine woodThe grapevine and vine wood are essential elements of our cuisine in La Rioja, and at Echaurren we often try usethis natural fuel, although the tall flames and short-lived embers do not make things easy. As a result, we havedeveloped a method of trapping the aromas of the wood and conveying them to a more versatile element whichcan then pass them on to the food. The means chosen is extra virgin olive oil, which also contributes its ownvirtues.

SERVES 48 veal cheeks; 1 kg / 2 1/4 lb vine wood; 1 l / 4 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil; 125 cl / 1/2 cup red wine; table salt.

For the cheek sauceCheek trimmings; 3 onions; 2 carrots; 1 leek; 1/2 head garlic; 3 black peppercorns; 1 bay leaf; clove; sprigparsley; 250 ml / 1 1/8 cups sherry brandy; 1 l / 4 1/4 cup red wine; 3 l / 13 cup meat stock; table salt to taste.

For the salad garnishRocket; red chard; lollo rosso; escarole; chervil; 3 spears green asparagus per person.

For the apple purée6 Reineta apples; 500 ml / 2 1/6 cups water; 100 g / 3 1/2 oz sugar; salt.

Olive oil aromatized with vine woodPlace the vine trimmings chopped in pieces in a large pressure cooker and set on fire. When burnt down to theembers, insert a metal container–you can use a cake tin with wires attached to form handles–containing the extravirgin olive oil. Cover the pressure cooker to smoke the olive oil for 45 minutes.

Veal cheeksWash the cheeks well, season and place in a vacuum pack with 500 ml / 2 1/6 cups extravirgin olive oil aromatized with vine wood and the red wine. Cook in a steam oven or a bain-marie at 70ºC /158ºF for 35 hours. Cool quickly, then extract the meat and set aside the juices.Cut into squares each weighing about 150 g / 5 1/2 oz, then sear in a non-stick skillet withsome extra virgin olive oil aromatized with vine wood so that the meat looks as if it was cookedover a griddle.

Veal cheek sauceSoak the cheek trimmings for about 4 hours to remove any blood. Meanwhile, gently fry theonions, carrots and leeks with the herbs and spices until they begin to turn brown. Add thetrimmings and fry together. Add the sherry brandy and the wine, leave to reduce, then add thejuices from the vacuum-cooking process together with the meat stock. Leave to reduce, thenstrain and bind.

Apple puréeMake a syrup with the water and sugar. When it begins to thicken, add the chopped apples. Leave to cook, thentexturize in the Thermomix. Season with salt to taste.

TO SERVEServe a quenelle of apple purée and top with the seared veal cheek. Arrange the salad to one side (a few leaves ofrocket, red chard, lollo rosso, escarole and chervil) with the sautéed green asparagus, and add some sauce.

Preparation time5 hours 10 minutes

Cooking time35 hours

Recommended wineFrancis Paniego himself, who created this dish, recommends Trasnocho by Fernando Remírez de Ganuza (DOCa Rioja).“It has the perfect combination of elegance, modernity and classicism for this dish, giving the ideal balance.”

F R A N C I S P A N I E G O

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36 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 37

For much of the 1990s, Ortega, whowas born in Burgos, Spain, wastraveling around South America forBanco Santander. But what he wasreally doing, he says, was saving up“to buy my own business,” and wineseemed like a good idea. “I wasliving in the United Kingdom and Irealized that wine could be a goodinvestment, even on a collector’sscale, so I started collecting greatSpanish wines, ones that didn’tappear much at auctions. That washow it all started. Then I gothooked, and wine became apassion.”The bug for collecting movedtowards producing. The adventurestarted out in South America, a sub-

continent that he knew well from hislife as a banker. In late 1999, a friendphoned from Argentina to tell himthat there was a property for sale inthe foothills of the Andes in theArgentinean province of Mendoza.So off he went with a group ofadvisors. In 2000, they bought 263ha (650 acres) and immediatelystarted planting.“There were a number of reasons forchoosing Argentina,” says Ortega.“The first was that Argentinaproduces some very good wines, butnot many of them, so there waspotential for growth. We loved theclimate, the soil seemed just rightand land in Argentina at that timewas cheap.”

The chosen area was La Consulta, atan altitude of 1,200 m (3,940 ft) inthe Uco Valley. It is now recognizedas an excellent location and is evenstarting to rival in prestige with othertraditional areas in Mendoza such asAgrelo and Perdriel. But in the late90s, it was home to just a couple ofwineries–until O. Fournier camealong.With alluvial soil, rich in sand andstones, La Consulta–like all ofMendoza–is practically a desert withrainfall that hardly ever exceeds 200mm (8 in) a year. The main problemis water. On the O. Fournier property,wells had to be dug to a depth of 160m (525 ft) to reach the aquifers. Eventoday, after seven years with the

TEXTPATRICIO TAPIA

TRANSLATIONHAWYS PRITCHARD

PHOTOSBODEGAS O. FOURNIER

My first impression of José Manuel Ortega

Fournier, president of Bodegas O. Fournier,

was that he was a glutton for work. The

first time I contacted him it was via an e-

mail I sent from Santiago, Chile. I was at

home, feeling like a martyr to journalism

because I was working after 10 p.m. It was

the summer of 2005 and Ortega was

finalizing the purchase of a winery in Chile.

Before shutting off my computer, I decided

to send him another e-mail to check some

information. I was just going to bed when

I noticed, to my surprise, that a reply had

come in no more than five minutes later. I

was grateful, and I commiserated with him

for working so late. He replied immediately,

laughing at our shared situation,

commenting that he was not in Chile but

in Ribera del Duero, thousands of miles and

several time zones eastwards. For him, it

was 3 a.m. “I have to work hard to get what

I want,” he wrote. In real terms, that means

five wineries in four countries, a dream that

is fast coming true.

BODEGAS O. FOURNIER

Hooked on Wine

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36 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 37

For much of the 1990s, Ortega, whowas born in Burgos, Spain, wastraveling around South America forBanco Santander. But what he wasreally doing, he says, was saving up“to buy my own business,” and wineseemed like a good idea. “I wasliving in the United Kingdom and Irealized that wine could be a goodinvestment, even on a collector’sscale, so I started collecting greatSpanish wines, ones that didn’tappear much at auctions. That washow it all started. Then I gothooked, and wine became apassion.”The bug for collecting movedtowards producing. The adventurestarted out in South America, a sub-

continent that he knew well from hislife as a banker. In late 1999, a friendphoned from Argentina to tell himthat there was a property for sale inthe foothills of the Andes in theArgentinean province of Mendoza.So off he went with a group ofadvisors. In 2000, they bought 263ha (650 acres) and immediatelystarted planting.“There were a number of reasons forchoosing Argentina,” says Ortega.“The first was that Argentinaproduces some very good wines, butnot many of them, so there waspotential for growth. We loved theclimate, the soil seemed just rightand land in Argentina at that timewas cheap.”

The chosen area was La Consulta, atan altitude of 1,200 m (3,940 ft) inthe Uco Valley. It is now recognizedas an excellent location and is evenstarting to rival in prestige with othertraditional areas in Mendoza such asAgrelo and Perdriel. But in the late90s, it was home to just a couple ofwineries–until O. Fournier camealong.With alluvial soil, rich in sand andstones, La Consulta–like all ofMendoza–is practically a desert withrainfall that hardly ever exceeds 200mm (8 in) a year. The main problemis water. On the O. Fournier property,wells had to be dug to a depth of 160m (525 ft) to reach the aquifers. Eventoday, after seven years with the

TEXTPATRICIO TAPIA

TRANSLATIONHAWYS PRITCHARD

PHOTOSBODEGAS O. FOURNIER

My first impression of José Manuel Ortega

Fournier, president of Bodegas O. Fournier,

was that he was a glutton for work. The

first time I contacted him it was via an e-

mail I sent from Santiago, Chile. I was at

home, feeling like a martyr to journalism

because I was working after 10 p.m. It was

the summer of 2005 and Ortega was

finalizing the purchase of a winery in Chile.

Before shutting off my computer, I decided

to send him another e-mail to check some

information. I was just going to bed when

I noticed, to my surprise, that a reply had

come in no more than five minutes later. I

was grateful, and I commiserated with him

for working so late. He replied immediately,

laughing at our shared situation,

commenting that he was not in Chile but

in Ribera del Duero, thousands of miles and

several time zones eastwards. For him, it

was 3 a.m. “I have to work hard to get what

I want,” he wrote. In real terms, that means

five wineries in four countries, a dream that

is fast coming true.

BODEGAS O. FOURNIER

Hooked on Wine

03-FOURNIER IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 13:12 P gina 36 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

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38 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

SPANISH ROOTS ABROAD

WINES

the best region, which happens to bewhere I was born,” states Ortega.The region chosen was Ribera delDuero. They bought up a smallwinery which they modernized andexpanded to a capacity of 325,000 l(85,839 gal). But, more importantly,they bought the vineyards that wentwith the winery from the San Juan

López family. This Finca el Pinar has60 ha (148 acres) under vines agedbetween 23 and 57 years. “Ourphilosophy is to try to base ourquality on old grapes. That’s what wedid in Mendoza and it was our firstpriority in Ribera del Duero.”The Ribera del Duero winery, locatedin the Berlanga de Roa area in the

JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 39

simultaneously as sales manager,public relations officer and generaldogsbody, serving wine to journalistsor to tourists coming along to hisrestaurant. And it seems to me hissuccess is partly thanks to his skilleduse of mobile technology. Never haveI seen anyone write faster on the tinykeyboard of a cell phone.

Back to their originsThe basic premise behind the O.Fournier project was the need tominimize the risks involved in anenterprise that depends on thewhims of Mother Nature. That wasone of the reasons for creating agroup of wineries spanning the twohemispheres, in the old and the newworlds of wine. Once the project inMendoza was underway, theirattention turned to Spain, with theidea of setting up a winery withfinancial contributions from Ortega’sfather and three new partners. “Wewanted a winery in Spain for thesimple reason that we were Spanish,but it couldn’t be just anywhere. Ithad to be in what we consider to be

production plants in operation, theplace still feels like an oasis in themiddle of extensive areas of sand anddirt tracks against the spectacularbackdrop of the snow-capped Andes,just 15 km (9 mi) away.The first plantations covered 80 ha(198 acres) with CabernetSauvignon, Malbec, Syrah,Sauvignon Blanc and, above all,Tempranillo, which occupied morethan half of the vineyard. “That musthave been because of the Spanishblood in me,” says Ortega, althoughhe accepts that the climate, with hotsummers but sharp differencesbetween daytime and nighttimetemperatures, also helped convincethem that Tempranillo could dowell. Their decision was proven right

when they discovered that just amile away to the southwest, therewas a small, old vineyard growingthis Spanish variety. Once they triedthe fruit, they realized that theemphasis on Tempranillo was notjust a matter of nostalgia. They usedtheir first grapes to make (in rentedfacilities) the company’s first greatwine: ACrux 2001, a blend of 70%Tempranillo, 20% Malbec and 10%Merlot.The next step was to build thewinery. Work started in October2002 and, four years later, theimpressive building was the talk ofthe town, with architecture thatmade it look more like somethingfrom outer space than a winery.“Since it was the first plant, we

wanted something emblematic, alandmark, so I asked the architectsfor an innovative, striking design,one that people would talk about,for better or for worse.”Today there is now a modernrestaurant seating 60, run by Nadia,Ortega’s wife, attached to this “flyingsaucer”, and plans are underway tobuild a luxury hotel with 36 roomswhere Ortega can house some of themany tourists that are beginning toflock to Mendoza.The choice of an unknown spot paidoff. It soon attracted the attention ofthe international press within theArgentinean context, and sales havegrown in parallel. This was partlythanks to the efforts of the presidenthimself who is happy to act

BODEGAS O. FOURNIER

WINES

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38 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

SPANISH ROOTS ABROAD

WINES

the best region, which happens to bewhere I was born,” states Ortega.The region chosen was Ribera delDuero. They bought up a smallwinery which they modernized andexpanded to a capacity of 325,000 l(85,839 gal). But, more importantly,they bought the vineyards that wentwith the winery from the San Juan

López family. This Finca el Pinar has60 ha (148 acres) under vines agedbetween 23 and 57 years. “Ourphilosophy is to try to base ourquality on old grapes. That’s what wedid in Mendoza and it was our firstpriority in Ribera del Duero.”The Ribera del Duero winery, locatedin the Berlanga de Roa area in the

JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 39

simultaneously as sales manager,public relations officer and generaldogsbody, serving wine to journalistsor to tourists coming along to hisrestaurant. And it seems to me hissuccess is partly thanks to his skilleduse of mobile technology. Never haveI seen anyone write faster on the tinykeyboard of a cell phone.

Back to their originsThe basic premise behind the O.Fournier project was the need tominimize the risks involved in anenterprise that depends on thewhims of Mother Nature. That wasone of the reasons for creating agroup of wineries spanning the twohemispheres, in the old and the newworlds of wine. Once the project inMendoza was underway, theirattention turned to Spain, with theidea of setting up a winery withfinancial contributions from Ortega’sfather and three new partners. “Wewanted a winery in Spain for thesimple reason that we were Spanish,but it couldn’t be just anywhere. Ithad to be in what we consider to be

production plants in operation, theplace still feels like an oasis in themiddle of extensive areas of sand anddirt tracks against the spectacularbackdrop of the snow-capped Andes,just 15 km (9 mi) away.The first plantations covered 80 ha(198 acres) with CabernetSauvignon, Malbec, Syrah,Sauvignon Blanc and, above all,Tempranillo, which occupied morethan half of the vineyard. “That musthave been because of the Spanishblood in me,” says Ortega, althoughhe accepts that the climate, with hotsummers but sharp differencesbetween daytime and nighttimetemperatures, also helped convincethem that Tempranillo could dowell. Their decision was proven right

when they discovered that just amile away to the southwest, therewas a small, old vineyard growingthis Spanish variety. Once they triedthe fruit, they realized that theemphasis on Tempranillo was notjust a matter of nostalgia. They usedtheir first grapes to make (in rentedfacilities) the company’s first greatwine: ACrux 2001, a blend of 70%Tempranillo, 20% Malbec and 10%Merlot.The next step was to build thewinery. Work started in October2002 and, four years later, theimpressive building was the talk ofthe town, with architecture thatmade it look more like somethingfrom outer space than a winery.“Since it was the first plant, we

wanted something emblematic, alandmark, so I asked the architectsfor an innovative, striking design,one that people would talk about,for better or for worse.”Today there is now a modernrestaurant seating 60, run by Nadia,Ortega’s wife, attached to this “flyingsaucer”, and plans are underway tobuild a luxury hotel with 36 roomswhere Ortega can house some of themany tourists that are beginning toflock to Mendoza.The choice of an unknown spot paidoff. It soon attracted the attention ofthe international press within theArgentinean context, and sales havegrown in parallel. This was partlythanks to the efforts of the presidenthimself who is happy to act

BODEGAS O. FOURNIER

WINES

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40 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 41

comments, we still need to consolidateour sales operations. We believe it’sjust a matter of time.”But before that goal is reached, he hasdecided to focus on his latest project:Chile.

Across the AndesIn 2004, both the Ribera del Dueroproject in Spain and the Mendozaproject in Argentina were makingprogress. It was time to look forfurther growth, this time in Chile.“From the start we focused on Chilefor several reasons. Its climate is ideal,it has a great diversity of soils andtemperate climates and its market issound. Its success over recent years inopening up foreign markets is proof ofthis.”But things were not easy. As in Spain,

province of Burgos, is not so strikingin architectural terms as La Consulta,but its wines are of equally goodquality. The first vintage was 2002with the Spiga line. Two years later,having gained experience with thevineyard, they were able to make anO. Fournier that was 100%Tempranillo, the top-ranking grapein the Spanish wine world. Thisstrategy was also followed inMendoza with the 2002 grapes, butthere the old vines were Syrah.Ortega’s idea is to consolidate thewinery in Ribera del Duero,preferably with wines achieving thesame impact as their peers inMendoza, but he knows competitionis fierce and his project is a new one.“We’ve only been in the Spanishwine market for two years and,though we’ve had good reviews and

they wanted to start out in aprestigious area in Chile. The valleythey selected was Colchagua, 150km (93 mi) south of the capital cityof Santiago, the location of otherwineries based on Chilean capital(Viña Montes) and foreign capital(Casa Lapostolle) that have beenvery successful internationally. But,after almost three years of trying tofind the right spot, they gave up.“Instead of placing our bets on a safelocation in Colchagua, we wereadvised by local experts to try outregions with unexplored potential.”That was how they reached theMaule Valley, an area 250 km (155mi) south of Santiago.Within Chile, the Casablanca, Maipoand Colchagua Valleys areconsidered to have the greatestprestige. Everyone wants to invest

SPANISH ROOTS ABROAD

WINES

BODEGAS O. FOURNIER

WINES

in Chile.” The idea is to exploit thepotential with Cabernet Sauvignon,Merlot, Carmenère, as well asCariñena, a variety considered to bea very good prospect in this area.The Chile project also includeswhites. In fact, the first wine theymade is a Sauvignon Blanc under anew label, Centauri, from grapesbought in Leyda, a valley close to thePacific coast that is currentlyattracting great interest in Chile. Butthe winery’s plans go beyond Leydato include an adjacent area that ismuch colder and more complex,with less fertile soils and limitedwater availability. The area is calledLo Abarca and is perhaps the group’smost risky project yet. “We’re awareof the problems, but we’ve decidedto take the risk because of theclimate and the soil characteristics.We’re convinced it could be one ofthe best terroirs for Sauvignon Blancin the world.”O. Fournier has bought 35 ha (86.5acres) of steeply sloping land andplan to plant Sauvignon Blanc, aswell as Riesling and Pinot Noir, all ofwhich should adapt well to the cooltemperatures at a distance of justfour km (2.5 mi) from the coldPacific Ocean. They also plan tobuild a winery that will be asmodern as the one in Mendoza butsmaller, with a capacity of no morethan 100,000 l (26,412 gal).

there. Maule, on the other hand, hasa longstanding vine-growingtradition but has not yet been able toget rid of its reputation as a bulkproducer of poor quality wines.Today, thanks to a small group ofgrowers, its image is graduallychanging. It was precisely thisundiscovered potential that attractedOrtega. “The challenge of Maule issimilar to what we did in LaConsulta. The possibilities are asgreat as they were there and,according to our enologist JoséSpisso, the Maule reds have afreshness and character that he hasnever seen anywhere else.”So they rented a winery in the MauleValley and started producing wine in2007. They also took out a long-term rent on a vineyard with oldvines, “the most attractive plot I sawin the three years that I was looking

For Lo Abarca, there is also a projectto build a restaurant and perhaps,according to Ortega, a small,charming hotel. But these ideas willdevelop in parallel with thecompany’s new challenge: anotherwinery on the Douro, in Portugal,their fourth country. After that, hesays, as if it were easy as pie, theplan is to create a second winery inSpain–four countries, five plants–allunder the O. Fournier umbrella, buteach with its own labels. That wasthe business he was dreaming ofwhile he worked for the bank.Sometimes he feels nostalgic aboutthose times back then when hetraveled less and earned more, buthe confesses that he’s caught thewine bug. Wine is now his passion,his obsession.

Patricio Tapia is a specialist winewriter. He writes about South Americanand Spanish wines for Wines & Spiritsin New York.

www.ofournier.comInformation on all of the BodegasO. Fournier wineries and wines.

W E B S I T E S

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40 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 41

comments, we still need to consolidateour sales operations. We believe it’sjust a matter of time.”But before that goal is reached, he hasdecided to focus on his latest project:Chile.

Across the AndesIn 2004, both the Ribera del Dueroproject in Spain and the Mendozaproject in Argentina were makingprogress. It was time to look forfurther growth, this time in Chile.“From the start we focused on Chilefor several reasons. Its climate is ideal,it has a great diversity of soils andtemperate climates and its market issound. Its success over recent years inopening up foreign markets is proof ofthis.”But things were not easy. As in Spain,

province of Burgos, is not so strikingin architectural terms as La Consulta,but its wines are of equally goodquality. The first vintage was 2002with the Spiga line. Two years later,having gained experience with thevineyard, they were able to make anO. Fournier that was 100%Tempranillo, the top-ranking grapein the Spanish wine world. Thisstrategy was also followed inMendoza with the 2002 grapes, butthere the old vines were Syrah.Ortega’s idea is to consolidate thewinery in Ribera del Duero,preferably with wines achieving thesame impact as their peers inMendoza, but he knows competitionis fierce and his project is a new one.“We’ve only been in the Spanishwine market for two years and,though we’ve had good reviews and

they wanted to start out in aprestigious area in Chile. The valleythey selected was Colchagua, 150km (93 mi) south of the capital cityof Santiago, the location of otherwineries based on Chilean capital(Viña Montes) and foreign capital(Casa Lapostolle) that have beenvery successful internationally. But,after almost three years of trying tofind the right spot, they gave up.“Instead of placing our bets on a safelocation in Colchagua, we wereadvised by local experts to try outregions with unexplored potential.”That was how they reached theMaule Valley, an area 250 km (155mi) south of Santiago.Within Chile, the Casablanca, Maipoand Colchagua Valleys areconsidered to have the greatestprestige. Everyone wants to invest

SPANISH ROOTS ABROAD

WINES

BODEGAS O. FOURNIER

WINES

in Chile.” The idea is to exploit thepotential with Cabernet Sauvignon,Merlot, Carmenère, as well asCariñena, a variety considered to bea very good prospect in this area.The Chile project also includeswhites. In fact, the first wine theymade is a Sauvignon Blanc under anew label, Centauri, from grapesbought in Leyda, a valley close to thePacific coast that is currentlyattracting great interest in Chile. Butthe winery’s plans go beyond Leydato include an adjacent area that ismuch colder and more complex,with less fertile soils and limitedwater availability. The area is calledLo Abarca and is perhaps the group’smost risky project yet. “We’re awareof the problems, but we’ve decidedto take the risk because of theclimate and the soil characteristics.We’re convinced it could be one ofthe best terroirs for Sauvignon Blancin the world.”O. Fournier has bought 35 ha (86.5acres) of steeply sloping land andplan to plant Sauvignon Blanc, aswell as Riesling and Pinot Noir, all ofwhich should adapt well to the cooltemperatures at a distance of justfour km (2.5 mi) from the coldPacific Ocean. They also plan tobuild a winery that will be asmodern as the one in Mendoza butsmaller, with a capacity of no morethan 100,000 l (26,412 gal).

there. Maule, on the other hand, hasa longstanding vine-growingtradition but has not yet been able toget rid of its reputation as a bulkproducer of poor quality wines.Today, thanks to a small group ofgrowers, its image is graduallychanging. It was precisely thisundiscovered potential that attractedOrtega. “The challenge of Maule issimilar to what we did in LaConsulta. The possibilities are asgreat as they were there and,according to our enologist JoséSpisso, the Maule reds have afreshness and character that he hasnever seen anywhere else.”So they rented a winery in the MauleValley and started producing wine in2007. They also took out a long-term rent on a vineyard with oldvines, “the most attractive plot I sawin the three years that I was looking

For Lo Abarca, there is also a projectto build a restaurant and perhaps,according to Ortega, a small,charming hotel. But these ideas willdevelop in parallel with thecompany’s new challenge: anotherwinery on the Douro, in Portugal,their fourth country. After that, hesays, as if it were easy as pie, theplan is to create a second winery inSpain–four countries, five plants–allunder the O. Fournier umbrella, buteach with its own labels. That wasthe business he was dreaming ofwhile he worked for the bank.Sometimes he feels nostalgic aboutthose times back then when hetraveled less and earned more, buthe confesses that he’s caught thewine bug. Wine is now his passion,his obsession.

Patricio Tapia is a specialist winewriter. He writes about South Americanand Spanish wines for Wines & Spiritsin New York.

www.ofournier.comInformation on all of the BodegasO. Fournier wineries and wines.

W E B S I T E S

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A mere 20 years ago, even the most committed optimist would not have predictedthe dazzling future that lay ahead for the wines of Bierzo, then still entrenched ina lackluster past. Yet it should not have come as such as surprise. Back in the 1960s,France’s Emile Peynaud, later to be hailed as “the father of modern oenology”, hadpredicted that this little area of León, with its long winemaking history, would someday become one of Spain’s top sources of great red wines.

HighTimes in

TextBartolomé Sánchez

TranslationHawys Pritchard

PhotosJuan Manuel Sanz/ICEX

Treasure Trove BIER

ZO

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A mere 20 years ago, even the most committed optimist would not have predictedthe dazzling future that lay ahead for the wines of Bierzo, then still entrenched ina lackluster past. Yet it should not have come as such as surprise. Back in the 1960s,France’s Emile Peynaud, later to be hailed as “the father of modern oenology”, hadpredicted that this little area of León, with its long winemaking history, would someday become one of Spain’s top sources of great red wines.

HighTimes in

TextBartolomé Sánchez

TranslationHawys Pritchard

PhotosJuan Manuel Sanz/ICEX

Treasure Trove BIER

ZO04-BIERZO IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 13:41 P gina 42 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

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processing natural Bierzo productsand a successful restaurant franchise,Antonio Pérez Caramés, then alreadyengaged in organic growing–acomplicated and little-appreciatedpursuit at the time, and LunaBeberide, notable for havingintroduced foreign varieties, hithertounknown in that part of the country,such as Gewürztraminer, Merlot andChardonnay.All three shared a can-do attitudeand an unconventional approach tothe wine trade and they attempted tobring a breath of fresh air into thecomarca. Their concept revolvedaround decidedly modern wines thatcaptured a wealth of fruit andtannins in the bottle and werediametrically different from the area’spredominant wine styles andmethods. Years later, Bierzo’s newwave was to coincide with the arrivalon the scene of Álvaro Palacios,

already an established figure inDOCa Priorat, accompanied by hisnephew Ricardo Pérez, or perhapsvice versa. His approach wasredolent of such conviction that itinspired local winemakers, especiallythe younger ones, who immediatelyopted to ride the wave that waseventually to make such a name forthe new wines of Bierzo both inSpain and abroad.

High-level viticultureThe winery owners and winemakersof new-era Bierzo have been sleuth-like in tracking down oldplantations; plots of vines growing inpoor, slaty soils high up on steepslopes are highly desirable becausetheir yield is low–a guarantee ofquality wine. They embody a magicformula: very old vines have learnedto pace their growth harmoniously

and to produce fruit with a perfectinternal balance between water andsolid matter (such as tannins andother polyphenols). The highaltitude means that they experience agreater temperature differencebetween day and night–essential fordeveloping and fixing aromas andacidity, that zing that gives a winefreshness, while the slaty soils scentthe must with deep, mysterious,flinty aromas, one of the attributesassociated with great terroir wines.Moreover, the scarcity of nutrients inthe soil imposes a Spartan disciplineon the plants’ roots, sending themdeeper in search of nourishment sothat they absorb them from thevarious strata through which theypass and enrich the cocktail in theprocess.However, not all winemakers andgrowers are prepared to tread such asafe path; indeed, there are those

Peynaud’s prescient theory was basedon the combination of conditions inthis land of opposites that make itideal for distinctive, individualized,richly-nuanced viticulture. Bierzooccupies a privileged geographicallocation, between rainy Galicia andSpain’s central plateau with itscharacteristic contrasts of extremetemperatures, and is protected fromthe cold Asturian winds by theMontes de León mountain chain. Italso has: an Atlantic microclimate,annual rainfall of over 700 l / 185 galper m², vines growing at altitudesbetween 450 and 1,000 m (1,475and 3,280 ft), over 2,000 generoushours of sunshine a year,predominantly slaty soils, and anunusual grape variety–Mencía–withvery individual aromas, color andtexture that, most importantly,consumers can readily identify.Clever harnessing of thisextraordinary assemblage ofconditions by a new generation ofhighly-trained growers andwinemakers has made Peynaud’sprediction come true. Bierzo,traditionally dominated as it was bycooperatives and big wineries stillproducing overly-conventional winesin the style popularized in the 1950s(lots of wood aging, half-heartedcolor and a lightness on the palatethat all too often verged on thebanal) has been revolutionized in theprocess.Bierzo’s new wave wines began toacquire impetus at the end of the lastcentury, though intimations ofpromising things to come had beenprovided some years earlier by theconviction-fuelled activities of a fewfar-sighted local figures. Amongthem was: José Luis Prada, founderof Prada a Tope, a dynamic company

WINES

WINES

BIERZO BIERZO

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processing natural Bierzo productsand a successful restaurant franchise,Antonio Pérez Caramés, then alreadyengaged in organic growing–acomplicated and little-appreciatedpursuit at the time, and LunaBeberide, notable for havingintroduced foreign varieties, hithertounknown in that part of the country,such as Gewürztraminer, Merlot andChardonnay.All three shared a can-do attitudeand an unconventional approach tothe wine trade and they attempted tobring a breath of fresh air into thecomarca. Their concept revolvedaround decidedly modern wines thatcaptured a wealth of fruit andtannins in the bottle and werediametrically different from the area’spredominant wine styles andmethods. Years later, Bierzo’s newwave was to coincide with the arrivalon the scene of Álvaro Palacios,

already an established figure inDOCa Priorat, accompanied by hisnephew Ricardo Pérez, or perhapsvice versa. His approach wasredolent of such conviction that itinspired local winemakers, especiallythe younger ones, who immediatelyopted to ride the wave that waseventually to make such a name forthe new wines of Bierzo both inSpain and abroad.

High-level viticultureThe winery owners and winemakersof new-era Bierzo have been sleuth-like in tracking down oldplantations; plots of vines growing inpoor, slaty soils high up on steepslopes are highly desirable becausetheir yield is low–a guarantee ofquality wine. They embody a magicformula: very old vines have learnedto pace their growth harmoniously

and to produce fruit with a perfectinternal balance between water andsolid matter (such as tannins andother polyphenols). The highaltitude means that they experience agreater temperature differencebetween day and night–essential fordeveloping and fixing aromas andacidity, that zing that gives a winefreshness, while the slaty soils scentthe must with deep, mysterious,flinty aromas, one of the attributesassociated with great terroir wines.Moreover, the scarcity of nutrients inthe soil imposes a Spartan disciplineon the plants’ roots, sending themdeeper in search of nourishment sothat they absorb them from thevarious strata through which theypass and enrich the cocktail in theprocess.However, not all winemakers andgrowers are prepared to tread such asafe path; indeed, there are those

Peynaud’s prescient theory was basedon the combination of conditions inthis land of opposites that make itideal for distinctive, individualized,richly-nuanced viticulture. Bierzooccupies a privileged geographicallocation, between rainy Galicia andSpain’s central plateau with itscharacteristic contrasts of extremetemperatures, and is protected fromthe cold Asturian winds by theMontes de León mountain chain. Italso has: an Atlantic microclimate,annual rainfall of over 700 l / 185 galper m², vines growing at altitudesbetween 450 and 1,000 m (1,475and 3,280 ft), over 2,000 generoushours of sunshine a year,predominantly slaty soils, and anunusual grape variety–Mencía–withvery individual aromas, color andtexture that, most importantly,consumers can readily identify.Clever harnessing of thisextraordinary assemblage ofconditions by a new generation ofhighly-trained growers andwinemakers has made Peynaud’sprediction come true. Bierzo,traditionally dominated as it was bycooperatives and big wineries stillproducing overly-conventional winesin the style popularized in the 1950s(lots of wood aging, half-heartedcolor and a lightness on the palatethat all too often verged on thebanal) has been revolutionized in theprocess.Bierzo’s new wave wines began toacquire impetus at the end of the lastcentury, though intimations ofpromising things to come had beenprovided some years earlier by theconviction-fuelled activities of a fewfar-sighted local figures. Amongthem was: José Luis Prada, founderof Prada a Tope, a dynamic company

WINES

WINES

BIERZO BIERZO

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WINES

These days, every winery and everyoenologist makes a single-vineyardwine that starts out in very expensive“boutique” casks and ends up in topbrand bottles with eye-catchingdesigner labels. Often, batches barelyamount to a few thousandbottles–sometimes even under athousand–and prices are on a parwith famous estate wines. RicardoPérez, of Descendientes de J.Palacios, makes up to four wines ofthis type, some of which sell for over100 euros.

Emancipated youthAs we have seen, it is not just thePalacios that attain such heights.Young, local winemaker Raúl Pérez,one of the area’s most distinguishedand prolific oenologists, makes greatMencía wines such as Utreia deValtuille. He is a prominent member

of the Pérez family, owners ofBodegas y Viñedos Castro Ventosa,though at the moment he is taking abreak in the family bodega. Raúlruns the dynamic Bodegas Estefaníawhere he makes the consistentlygood Tilenus in various versions(young, crianza), but his outstandingproducts are a couple of splendidsingle vineyard reds. One of these isCova de la Raposa of which barely500 bottles are issued, and even thenonly in years when the grapes areconsidered to be of fine enoughquality to bear exposure to marketassessment. He also providesprofessional advice to otherwinegrowing areas such as nearbyRibeira Sacra. Indeed, hisauthoritative influence extends as faras DO Vinos de Madrid, where he ispart of a laudable project in SanMartín de Valdeiglesias to save 25 ha(62 acres) of old Garnacha vines

owned by Bernabeleva, a companyassociated with forestrymanagement, hunting activities andthe exploitation of natural resources.He is also doing interesting workwith Tempranillo in the harsh, rockyterrain of Valtiendas (in the Segoviaprovince, very close to Ribera delDuero).Bierzo seems charged withdynamism. Alliances have formedamong the children of veteranwinemakers, eager to move on fromthe wines made by the previousgeneration. For example, AlejandroLuna (son of Luna Beberide) andbrothers Alberto and EduardoGarcía (sons of Mariano García fromBodegas Aalto and Mauro, both inRibera del Duero), have teamed upwith Gregory Pérez, another toplocal oenologist. This team ofprofessionals has achieved a lot:from five ha (12 acres) of vineyard

46 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

that prefer a riskier approach. Somedevotees of the Mencía variety,among them Amancio Fernández,formerly an oenologist at Dominiode Torres and now involved in aproject of his own, have taken theexperiment a step further. While thegeneral technique for achieving topquality is to seek out high-altitudevines growing on steep, slatyhillsides, it occurred to him towonder what would happen if thesame variety were to be grown inclay-rich soil. The results of hisexperiment were frankly surprising.For one thing, the grape skins werethinner, creating a gentler structureand smoother-textured wines.Acidity, the backbone of this region’swines, has a subtler presence. Theend results are superb: supremelyelegant wines that can be enjoyedyoung, unlike those of slaty soilprovenance which have to be keptfor years to temper their strength.This style, which is still at the projectstage, is a treat for the palate and ofcourse opens up new experimentalpossibilities for Bierzo wines.Winemakers have been competitivein tracking down and lavishing careand attention on small plantations of

old vines, and those owners are nowthe makers of wines with top-flightreputations. The prime material thatthese vines produce is worth a lot.And it is by a mere stroke of luck thatthey have survived: they could soeasily have suffered the same fate asold vines (of equal oenologicalsignificance) in other wine-producingareas of Spain, and fallen victim toone of the reforms or systematicuprootings of vines that periodicallydevastate the nation’s vineyards.Because each plot possesses uniquecharacter traits, the grapes derivedfrom them are pressed separately, anda number of estate wines haveappeared as a result. The outstandingcharacteristic of these vineyards isthat they are tiny and scattered: manyof the plots measure less than acuartal (a local measurement equal to500 m2 (5,380 sq ft)). It is aneloquent statistic that the 4,000 or soha (9,884 acres) of registeredvineyard are distributed among nearly4,000 growers.Perhaps the most interesting aspectof Bierzo wines is the way in whichthey reflect their geographicalprovenance: a patchwork of littleplots planted with gobelet-trained

vines, almost impossible to reachwith modern farming machinery tothe extent, in some cases, that horse-drawn equipment has had to bebrought out of retirement forplowing and maintenance. Thepredominant approach in Bierzoinvolves meticulous vineyardmanagement and making wine insmall, easily-controlled quantities.This explains why no enormouswineries designed by famousarchitects (which are becoming sofashionable in other winemakingareas) have so far appeared on thescene. One could interpret this assignifying that hereabouts theybelieve in the oft-repeated (but notalways applied) maxim that “a goodwine is made in the vineyard” andprefer to concentrate on the land. Inthis intriguing, demanding terrain itis more a matter of necessity thanchoice.

WINES

BIERZO BIERZO

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WINES

These days, every winery and everyoenologist makes a single-vineyardwine that starts out in very expensive“boutique” casks and ends up in topbrand bottles with eye-catchingdesigner labels. Often, batches barelyamount to a few thousandbottles–sometimes even under athousand–and prices are on a parwith famous estate wines. RicardoPérez, of Descendientes de J.Palacios, makes up to four wines ofthis type, some of which sell for over100 euros.

Emancipated youthAs we have seen, it is not just thePalacios that attain such heights.Young, local winemaker Raúl Pérez,one of the area’s most distinguishedand prolific oenologists, makes greatMencía wines such as Utreia deValtuille. He is a prominent member

of the Pérez family, owners ofBodegas y Viñedos Castro Ventosa,though at the moment he is taking abreak in the family bodega. Raúlruns the dynamic Bodegas Estefaníawhere he makes the consistentlygood Tilenus in various versions(young, crianza), but his outstandingproducts are a couple of splendidsingle vineyard reds. One of these isCova de la Raposa of which barely500 bottles are issued, and even thenonly in years when the grapes areconsidered to be of fine enoughquality to bear exposure to marketassessment. He also providesprofessional advice to otherwinegrowing areas such as nearbyRibeira Sacra. Indeed, hisauthoritative influence extends as faras DO Vinos de Madrid, where he ispart of a laudable project in SanMartín de Valdeiglesias to save 25 ha(62 acres) of old Garnacha vines

owned by Bernabeleva, a companyassociated with forestrymanagement, hunting activities andthe exploitation of natural resources.He is also doing interesting workwith Tempranillo in the harsh, rockyterrain of Valtiendas (in the Segoviaprovince, very close to Ribera delDuero).Bierzo seems charged withdynamism. Alliances have formedamong the children of veteranwinemakers, eager to move on fromthe wines made by the previousgeneration. For example, AlejandroLuna (son of Luna Beberide) andbrothers Alberto and EduardoGarcía (sons of Mariano García fromBodegas Aalto and Mauro, both inRibera del Duero), have teamed upwith Gregory Pérez, another toplocal oenologist. This team ofprofessionals has achieved a lot:from five ha (12 acres) of vineyard

46 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

that prefer a riskier approach. Somedevotees of the Mencía variety,among them Amancio Fernández,formerly an oenologist at Dominiode Torres and now involved in aproject of his own, have taken theexperiment a step further. While thegeneral technique for achieving topquality is to seek out high-altitudevines growing on steep, slatyhillsides, it occurred to him towonder what would happen if thesame variety were to be grown inclay-rich soil. The results of hisexperiment were frankly surprising.For one thing, the grape skins werethinner, creating a gentler structureand smoother-textured wines.Acidity, the backbone of this region’swines, has a subtler presence. Theend results are superb: supremelyelegant wines that can be enjoyedyoung, unlike those of slaty soilprovenance which have to be keptfor years to temper their strength.This style, which is still at the projectstage, is a treat for the palate and ofcourse opens up new experimentalpossibilities for Bierzo wines.Winemakers have been competitivein tracking down and lavishing careand attention on small plantations of

old vines, and those owners are nowthe makers of wines with top-flightreputations. The prime material thatthese vines produce is worth a lot.And it is by a mere stroke of luck thatthey have survived: they could soeasily have suffered the same fate asold vines (of equal oenologicalsignificance) in other wine-producingareas of Spain, and fallen victim toone of the reforms or systematicuprootings of vines that periodicallydevastate the nation’s vineyards.Because each plot possesses uniquecharacter traits, the grapes derivedfrom them are pressed separately, anda number of estate wines haveappeared as a result. The outstandingcharacteristic of these vineyards isthat they are tiny and scattered: manyof the plots measure less than acuartal (a local measurement equal to500 m2 (5,380 sq ft)). It is aneloquent statistic that the 4,000 or soha (9,884 acres) of registeredvineyard are distributed among nearly4,000 growers.Perhaps the most interesting aspectof Bierzo wines is the way in whichthey reflect their geographicalprovenance: a patchwork of littleplots planted with gobelet-trained

vines, almost impossible to reachwith modern farming machinery tothe extent, in some cases, that horse-drawn equipment has had to bebrought out of retirement forplowing and maintenance. Thepredominant approach in Bierzoinvolves meticulous vineyardmanagement and making wine insmall, easily-controlled quantities.This explains why no enormouswineries designed by famousarchitects (which are becoming sofashionable in other winemakingareas) have so far appeared on thescene. One could interpret this assignifying that hereabouts theybelieve in the oft-repeated (but notalways applied) maxim that “a goodwine is made in the vineyard” andprefer to concentrate on the land. Inthis intriguing, demanding terrain itis more a matter of necessity thanchoice.

WINES

BIERZO BIERZO

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JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 49

Familiar (the 2003 vintage wasnamed International Trophy Winnerat the awards ceremony in December2007) is a good example of thechange of style taking place in Bierzo.A collaboration involving the localoenologist Amancio Fernández(currently working on a differentproject), Mario Rico, Fermín Uríaand others, also produced excellentresults in terms of wine and gainingmore fans. They set up a winerycalled Dominio de Tares and usedthe opportunity to give free rein totheir oenological ambitions. Theirmain objective was to try get theutmost out of the small plots withwhich they were working (24owned by them), while supervisingthe management of 45 more.Although the volume theyproduce–400,000 bottles–is largein this context, the attentiondevoted to their raw material haspaid off and their wines representexcellent value for money. It isunsurprising to learn that Tares P-3,one of the wines derived from this

terroir, is considered to be one ofBierzo’s best.The project in which Amancio iscurrently engaged is on a biggerscale, not least in the number ofpartners involved. He and GuillermoPrada, who also runs Val de Sil inValdeorras, have succeeded ingathering 30 more backers fromvarious professions for an ambitiousscheme based in the pretty village ofPieros. The idea behind their winerythere is to bring in highly-prizedgrapes from those barely accessiblevineyards and vinify each plot’s fruitseparately so that its properties arehighlighted. So far, small batcheshave been made from the 2005 and2006 harvests.

Word gets aroundBierzo’s burgeoning reputation anddrive have attracted prestigiouscompanies from other DOs, forexample the Galiciano Group which,as well as its flagship Adegas Galegasin Galicia’s Rías Baixas, also owns

oenologists, works at Vinos Valtuille,a winery owned by Marco AntonioGarcía (a childhood friend of RaúlPérez). Her Pago de Valdoneje winesare refined, beautifully balanced andpossess that whiff of authenticity thatconsumers like so much.Also in Valtuille is the Peique winery,run by current representatives ofmany generations of winemakers whohave brought their most valuedassets–the old family vineyards–to theparty. Because of their approach toviticulture, which prioritizes top-quality raw material over quantity,they have had to make the effort andacquire more vineyards. The know-how and experience he has acquiredin other big-name designations oforigin, such as Ribera del Duero(where he works as an oenologist atthe Marqués de Vargas Group’sBodegas y Viñedos del Conde de SanCristóbal), have placed thewinemaker Jorge Peique in goodstead, and the wines he has createdhere are elegant, balanced andeloquent. His Peique Selección

composed of two plots of oldMencía vines that they managed tobuy in the village of Dragonte, theyhave produced a wine that isvirtually a collector’s item.Appropriately named Paixar (whichin local parlance means a plot orvine on the highest ground), this isa top-flight wine.Gregory Pérez (from Bordeaux,though originally Spanish)discovered Bierzo some years agoand became so involved with theplace that he has no intention ofsevering the connection. He has juststarted a very promising new project

called Mengoba with two otherpartners, for which they have renteda winery in Sarribas, near Cacabelos.The project is primarily focused onthe Godello variety. Already this yearhe has 10,000 l (2,641 gal) of leescontact wine with a spell in the caskto make it longer lived. He is makinga classically picturesque Mencía too,of course, derived from old plots stillworked by oxen: some 7,000 bottlescan be expected in two years time.Women are also making their markin the traditionally male-dominatedoenological arena. Ada, the daughterof José Luis Prada, has gone into

business with Ricardo Sanz(oenologist at Bodega de Crianza deCastilla la Vieja, DO Rueda), andacquired control of 40 ha (99 acres)of prized old vines in the course ofher winemaking activities. Her wineis called Ambos (Bodegas Mencías deDos). The word ambos means both,and the wine does indeed reveal thetrained skills of two youngprofessionals, both apparentlyendowed with innate expertise.In Valtuille, a little village that hasbecome a focal point of Bierzowinemaking, the oenologist ElenaOtero, one of a family of famous

WINES

WINES

BIERZO BIERZO

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JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 49

Familiar (the 2003 vintage wasnamed International Trophy Winnerat the awards ceremony in December2007) is a good example of thechange of style taking place in Bierzo.A collaboration involving the localoenologist Amancio Fernández(currently working on a differentproject), Mario Rico, Fermín Uríaand others, also produced excellentresults in terms of wine and gainingmore fans. They set up a winerycalled Dominio de Tares and usedthe opportunity to give free rein totheir oenological ambitions. Theirmain objective was to try get theutmost out of the small plots withwhich they were working (24owned by them), while supervisingthe management of 45 more.Although the volume theyproduce–400,000 bottles–is largein this context, the attentiondevoted to their raw material haspaid off and their wines representexcellent value for money. It isunsurprising to learn that Tares P-3,one of the wines derived from this

terroir, is considered to be one ofBierzo’s best.The project in which Amancio iscurrently engaged is on a biggerscale, not least in the number ofpartners involved. He and GuillermoPrada, who also runs Val de Sil inValdeorras, have succeeded ingathering 30 more backers fromvarious professions for an ambitiousscheme based in the pretty village ofPieros. The idea behind their winerythere is to bring in highly-prizedgrapes from those barely accessiblevineyards and vinify each plot’s fruitseparately so that its properties arehighlighted. So far, small batcheshave been made from the 2005 and2006 harvests.

Word gets aroundBierzo’s burgeoning reputation anddrive have attracted prestigiouscompanies from other DOs, forexample the Galiciano Group which,as well as its flagship Adegas Galegasin Galicia’s Rías Baixas, also owns

oenologists, works at Vinos Valtuille,a winery owned by Marco AntonioGarcía (a childhood friend of RaúlPérez). Her Pago de Valdoneje winesare refined, beautifully balanced andpossess that whiff of authenticity thatconsumers like so much.Also in Valtuille is the Peique winery,run by current representatives ofmany generations of winemakers whohave brought their most valuedassets–the old family vineyards–to theparty. Because of their approach toviticulture, which prioritizes top-quality raw material over quantity,they have had to make the effort andacquire more vineyards. The know-how and experience he has acquiredin other big-name designations oforigin, such as Ribera del Duero(where he works as an oenologist atthe Marqués de Vargas Group’sBodegas y Viñedos del Conde de SanCristóbal), have placed thewinemaker Jorge Peique in goodstead, and the wines he has createdhere are elegant, balanced andeloquent. His Peique Selección

composed of two plots of oldMencía vines that they managed tobuy in the village of Dragonte, theyhave produced a wine that isvirtually a collector’s item.Appropriately named Paixar (whichin local parlance means a plot orvine on the highest ground), this isa top-flight wine.Gregory Pérez (from Bordeaux,though originally Spanish)discovered Bierzo some years agoand became so involved with theplace that he has no intention ofsevering the connection. He has juststarted a very promising new project

called Mengoba with two otherpartners, for which they have renteda winery in Sarribas, near Cacabelos.The project is primarily focused onthe Godello variety. Already this yearhe has 10,000 l (2,641 gal) of leescontact wine with a spell in the caskto make it longer lived. He is makinga classically picturesque Mencía too,of course, derived from old plots stillworked by oxen: some 7,000 bottlescan be expected in two years time.Women are also making their markin the traditionally male-dominatedoenological arena. Ada, the daughterof José Luis Prada, has gone into

business with Ricardo Sanz(oenologist at Bodega de Crianza deCastilla la Vieja, DO Rueda), andacquired control of 40 ha (99 acres)of prized old vines in the course ofher winemaking activities. Her wineis called Ambos (Bodegas Mencías deDos). The word ambos means both,and the wine does indeed reveal thetrained skills of two youngprofessionals, both apparentlyendowed with innate expertise.In Valtuille, a little village that hasbecome a focal point of Bierzowinemaking, the oenologist ElenaOtero, one of a family of famous

WINES

WINES

BIERZO BIERZO

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wineries in various DOs includingMontsant, Valdeorras and Vinos de laTierra de León. Its Bierzo winery iscalled Viticultores Bercianos. MartínCódax, originally of DO Rías Baixas,has also moved into Bierzo where itproduces Martín Sarmiento reds atthe winery with the same name(named after the local Benedictinesage, poet and writer FraySarmiento, 1695-1772). The O Rosalzone of Rías Baixas is represented bythe Terras Gaudas winery, which hasalso turned to this area for its reds,acquiring a majority share holding inthe local winery Pittacum. Even thecompany that owns Pago del Vicario(the La Mancha bodega known forits “modern” wines) and aninteresting tourist complex inCiudad Real, has set up a wineryhere under the name Pago de SanClemente.Powerful business groups in the foodand allied sectors have alsoestablished a presence in Bierzo,among them Grupo Begar, whichencompasses construction, servicesand real estate companies. The groupowns Bodega del Abad and, judgingby the quality of its new Gotin delRisc range of wines, it has its sights

set on joining the field’s leaders.There is an interesting backgroundstory to Bodegas Estefanía, which isowned by the heavyweight companyQuesos Frías: it was originally adairy factory and was converted intoa winery when that business was nolonger viable. The happy ending isthat owners and workers (some ofwhom date back to the factory’sprevious incarnation) are still asenthusiastic about their now not-so-new venture as they were when itwas launched.

Treasures of the SilThe main variety used for Bierzoreds is Mencía, to which theirspecific character can be attributed.The DO’s regulations actually requirea minimum of 70% of this variety foryoung reds. Mencía is of uncertainorigin, and one long-establishedtheory associates it with the Frenchvariety, Cabernet Franc. However,according to Félix Cabello,researcher at IMIDRA (MadridInstitute for Rural, Farming andFood Research and Development),who manages the biggest collectionof vine varieties in Spain, this is an

erroneous notion triggered by adescription of Mencía by the authorNicolas García de los Salmones inwhich he mentions that it tastes like

grapes have a similar flavor. Researchcarried out at IMIDRA has shownCabernet Franc and Mencía to beunrelated. As Félix Cabello declares:“There is no connection betweenthese varieties except for the faintlyherbaceous flavor of their grapes.”He goes on to quote the study, ofwhich he is part author, entitled‘Characterization of Spanishgrapevine cultivar diversity usingsequence tagged micro satellite sitemarkers’, which appeared in themagazine Genome in 2003 and usesdata obtained from six micro satellitesite markers to demonstrate thatthese are two different varieties withfew links between them.Mencía is a deep, delicate andpleasantly Atlantic grape, with thatacidic hint of strawberry thatprovides its characteristic freshness.This variety had always beenthought to lack the necessary bodyto withstand crianza, but many ofthe new wave wines, some of whichhave been aged for 18 months innew oak casks, have put thathackneyed notion to rest. True, tofulfill its potential in this regard itdoes need to be grown in poor,preferably slaty, soils that keep itsproduction in check. This variety’sstrong personality gives rise to winesquite unlike any others frommainland Spain, particularly so inthe case of those derived from theslaty soils that imprint theircharacteristic marked mineral stamp,full of distinctive tastes and aromas.These wines represent a whole newarea of choice, an alternative to theTempranillos, Garnachas andCabernets with which Spain isawash.Bierzo wines appeal to manydifferent palates, and the grapes from

which they are made are a keyelement in this–not just Mencía, butother varieties native to the area aswell. One of the most importantamong these is Godello, the so-called“diva of the Sil”, which stands out asdifferent amid Spanish winemaking’svarietal repertoire. Until relativelyrecently this was a very low profilevariety, having been deployed insuch a way that its notable attributeswere defused. Thanks to the work ofexperts in Galicia and Bierzo,Godello has been re-evaluated and isnow a significant contender.Another aspect of Bierzo’s newtrajectory is that winery owners arekeen to raise the profile of theirwhite wines. Godello, Bierzo’s bestwhite wine option, offers oenologistsplenty of scope. Typically, Godellowines have refined aromas, body andoiliness and respond amazingly wellto ageing in tanks, fermentation andageing in casks and especially longperiods in the bottle. Some of theregion’s wineries are already offeringfine examples of what can beachieved with Godello.The one small snag is that there isvery little of it in Bierzo’svineyards–less than 1.5% of thetotal. There are also other DOauthorized varieties which, thoughlower in the white grape ranking, areuseful for making relatively largequantities of straightforward,pleasant young wines. This echelonis occupied by white varieties suchas Palomino, Malvasía, Doña Blanca(also known as Valenciana and beingtouted by some oenologists as the“next big thing”), and the red varietyGarnacha Tintorera. Discussions arecurrently underway with theregulatory council with a view tomodify the statutes and possibly addother reds such as Merlot, CabernetSauvignon and Tempranillo to thelist of authorized varieties. Giventhat there are a few plantations ofthese in the area, they may be

Authorized varieties:

• Reds: Mencía, the main variety, occupying 65% of Bierzo’s vineyards, and GarnachaTintorera, which accounts for 5.5% of the total area under vine.

• Whites: Godello, 1.5% of the total under vine; Doña Blanca, 10%; Palomino,15%; and Malvasía, 3%.

Altitude of vineyards: 450-1,000 m (1,475-3,280 ft)

Average annual rainfall: 721 mm (28 in)

Average annual hours of sunshine: 2,100-2,200

Hectares of registered vineyard: 4,161 (10,282 acres)

Number of growers: 3,867

Grape production (2006): 20,500,000 kg (45,194,763 lbs) – 143,500 hl (3,790,868 gal)

Sales (2006): 6,850,907 x 0.75 l (0.20 gal) bottles

Export quota (2006): 3.29%

Principal export markets: United States, Switzerland, Germany, Sweden and Mexico

Source: Regulatory Council of Designation of Origin Bierzo

S N A P S H O T

BIERZO

Cabernet Franco, meaning that their

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50 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 51

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wineries in various DOs includingMontsant, Valdeorras and Vinos de laTierra de León. Its Bierzo winery iscalled Viticultores Bercianos. MartínCódax, originally of DO Rías Baixas,has also moved into Bierzo where itproduces Martín Sarmiento reds atthe winery with the same name(named after the local Benedictinesage, poet and writer FraySarmiento, 1695-1772). The O Rosalzone of Rías Baixas is represented bythe Terras Gaudas winery, which hasalso turned to this area for its reds,acquiring a majority share holding inthe local winery Pittacum. Even thecompany that owns Pago del Vicario(the La Mancha bodega known forits “modern” wines) and aninteresting tourist complex inCiudad Real, has set up a wineryhere under the name Pago de SanClemente.Powerful business groups in the foodand allied sectors have alsoestablished a presence in Bierzo,among them Grupo Begar, whichencompasses construction, servicesand real estate companies. The groupowns Bodega del Abad and, judgingby the quality of its new Gotin delRisc range of wines, it has its sights

set on joining the field’s leaders.There is an interesting backgroundstory to Bodegas Estefanía, which isowned by the heavyweight companyQuesos Frías: it was originally adairy factory and was converted intoa winery when that business was nolonger viable. The happy ending isthat owners and workers (some ofwhom date back to the factory’sprevious incarnation) are still asenthusiastic about their now not-so-new venture as they were when itwas launched.

Treasures of the SilThe main variety used for Bierzoreds is Mencía, to which theirspecific character can be attributed.The DO’s regulations actually requirea minimum of 70% of this variety foryoung reds. Mencía is of uncertainorigin, and one long-establishedtheory associates it with the Frenchvariety, Cabernet Franc. However,according to Félix Cabello,researcher at IMIDRA (MadridInstitute for Rural, Farming andFood Research and Development),who manages the biggest collectionof vine varieties in Spain, this is an

erroneous notion triggered by adescription of Mencía by the authorNicolas García de los Salmones inwhich he mentions that it tastes like

grapes have a similar flavor. Researchcarried out at IMIDRA has shownCabernet Franc and Mencía to beunrelated. As Félix Cabello declares:“There is no connection betweenthese varieties except for the faintlyherbaceous flavor of their grapes.”He goes on to quote the study, ofwhich he is part author, entitled‘Characterization of Spanishgrapevine cultivar diversity usingsequence tagged micro satellite sitemarkers’, which appeared in themagazine Genome in 2003 and usesdata obtained from six micro satellitesite markers to demonstrate thatthese are two different varieties withfew links between them.Mencía is a deep, delicate andpleasantly Atlantic grape, with thatacidic hint of strawberry thatprovides its characteristic freshness.This variety had always beenthought to lack the necessary bodyto withstand crianza, but many ofthe new wave wines, some of whichhave been aged for 18 months innew oak casks, have put thathackneyed notion to rest. True, tofulfill its potential in this regard itdoes need to be grown in poor,preferably slaty, soils that keep itsproduction in check. This variety’sstrong personality gives rise to winesquite unlike any others frommainland Spain, particularly so inthe case of those derived from theslaty soils that imprint theircharacteristic marked mineral stamp,full of distinctive tastes and aromas.These wines represent a whole newarea of choice, an alternative to theTempranillos, Garnachas andCabernets with which Spain isawash.Bierzo wines appeal to manydifferent palates, and the grapes from

which they are made are a keyelement in this–not just Mencía, butother varieties native to the area aswell. One of the most importantamong these is Godello, the so-called“diva of the Sil”, which stands out asdifferent amid Spanish winemaking’svarietal repertoire. Until relativelyrecently this was a very low profilevariety, having been deployed insuch a way that its notable attributeswere defused. Thanks to the work ofexperts in Galicia and Bierzo,Godello has been re-evaluated and isnow a significant contender.Another aspect of Bierzo’s newtrajectory is that winery owners arekeen to raise the profile of theirwhite wines. Godello, Bierzo’s bestwhite wine option, offers oenologistsplenty of scope. Typically, Godellowines have refined aromas, body andoiliness and respond amazingly wellto ageing in tanks, fermentation andageing in casks and especially longperiods in the bottle. Some of theregion’s wineries are already offeringfine examples of what can beachieved with Godello.The one small snag is that there isvery little of it in Bierzo’svineyards–less than 1.5% of thetotal. There are also other DOauthorized varieties which, thoughlower in the white grape ranking, areuseful for making relatively largequantities of straightforward,pleasant young wines. This echelonis occupied by white varieties suchas Palomino, Malvasía, Doña Blanca(also known as Valenciana and beingtouted by some oenologists as the“next big thing”), and the red varietyGarnacha Tintorera. Discussions arecurrently underway with theregulatory council with a view tomodify the statutes and possibly addother reds such as Merlot, CabernetSauvignon and Tempranillo to thelist of authorized varieties. Giventhat there are a few plantations ofthese in the area, they may be

Authorized varieties:

• Reds: Mencía, the main variety, occupying 65% of Bierzo’s vineyards, and GarnachaTintorera, which accounts for 5.5% of the total area under vine.

• Whites: Godello, 1.5% of the total under vine; Doña Blanca, 10%; Palomino,15%; and Malvasía, 3%.

Altitude of vineyards: 450-1,000 m (1,475-3,280 ft)

Average annual rainfall: 721 mm (28 in)

Average annual hours of sunshine: 2,100-2,200

Hectares of registered vineyard: 4,161 (10,282 acres)

Number of growers: 3,867

Grape production (2006): 20,500,000 kg (45,194,763 lbs) – 143,500 hl (3,790,868 gal)

Sales (2006): 6,850,907 x 0.75 l (0.20 gal) bottles

Export quota (2006): 3.29%

Principal export markets: United States, Switzerland, Germany, Sweden and Mexico

Source: Regulatory Council of Designation of Origin Bierzo

S N A P S H O T

BIERZO

Cabernet Franco, meaning that their

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JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 53

can produce something so highlyregarded by the rest of the world. Thelast few years have seen anextraordinary increase in the numberof wineries registered with the DO’sRegulatory Council: the current totalstands at 54. Eagerness to do more isin the air. The younger winery ownershave set up an association known asAutóctona to which 20 wineriesbelong. Its aim is to spread wineculture among its members, stagingperiodic tastings of wines from otherregions, bringing in wine experts togive master classes and helpingpromote their wines abroad.Like a volcano, Bierzo is seething,with new projects following hot on

the heels of the last, overlapping,combining and dissolving. Thevineyard is taking on increasingimportance, and plantations of oldvines are venerated and sought afterlike hidden treasure. Oenologistschange jobs and wineries morereadily here than in other, moreestablished winegrowing areas. Thedynamism is palpable: this part ofSpain is enjoying the heyday of acherished product.

Food and wine critic BartoloméSánchez has a special interest in wine.He is assistant director of Opus Wine,publisher of Vinum España andMiVino magazines.

52 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

granted official recognition, but forthe most part winery owners are inno doubt that Mencía is the varietythat contributes the crucialdifferentiating element. Big-namewhite varieties Gewürztraminer andChardonnay are also likely to beauthorized eventually on thegrounds that plots of them haveexisted here for some years.Incorporating additional varieties isone of the most problematic issueswhen it comes to modifyingregulations. Were they to bemodified, minimum percentageswould need to be established for thenew varieties.

Wine and itslandscapeThis broad sweep of land borderdedto the north by the Montes de Leónmountain chain, dominated by themajestic bulk of Monte Tileno, isparticularly picturesque when theyare snow-covered, as is the caseseveral times a year despite thethreat of global warming that hangs

over us like the sword of Damoclesthese days. Within thisamphitheatre, little valleysconfigure a rugged terrain ofdizzying slopes. The central valleywhere the majority of the vineyardsare concentrated, in and around its22 towns including Villafranca,Cacabelos, Upper and LowerValtuilles and Dragonte, is beautiful,enigmatic and dotted withvineyards. Other valleys, such asthe one in which Carracedo islocated, grow different crops andone can drive along in the shade ofapple, pear and cherry trees for mileafter mile. Vines are grown in thatvalley too and, because the soils areconsiderably richer there, givehigher, though never lavish, yields.But it is those other, older vineyardsup on the high ground andhillsides, where Mencía vines haveto fight to get what they need fromthe hard slate, that have worked thenew Bierzo miracle. The other sideof the valley is dominated by theAquilianos Mountains which closesit off to the south. Altitudes here,with the eminence of La Silla de la

Yegua towering over 2,000 m(6,560 ft), are the highest in Bierzo.Through this dedicatedlywinegrowing landscape, the river Silwends its way.

Onward andupwardThe irresistible rise of Bierzo’s wineshas brought many benefits to aregion where other industries, suchas mining, are in undeniablerecession. Having barely paid its wayin the past, the region’s wine is nowa prestigious product that can offerits young people a promising future.It is tempting to hope that, if currentconditions are sustained,winegrowing will provide apopulation historically doomed toemigrate with a reason to stay putrather than having to exchange thislovely landscape for an uncertainfuture.The wine sector exerts its pull on bothlocals and outsiders, but for thepeople of the area it is also inspiring todiscover that their land and vineyards

WINES

www.crdobierzo.esThe website of the RegulatoryCouncil of DO Bierzo includesinformation about local history,geography, grape varieties,wines, wineries and DOactivities. (Spanish)

www.turismobierzo.comThe ASBITUR (Association ofRural Tourism Businessmen ofBierzo) site provides localinformation with a touristic slant:routes, festivals, where and whatto eat, accommodation and auseful map. (Spanish)

BIERZO

5 km / 3.1 mi

Toral delos Vados

Camponaraya San Miguelde las Dueñas

Molinaseca

Noceda

Puente deDomingo Flórez

Dehesas

San Románde Bembibre

Cubillosdel Sil

Quilós

SésamoSan Martínde Moreda

Burbia

Sancedo

Matachana

Vega deEspinareda

Corullón

Carracedelo

Toral deMerayo

Carucedo

Castroquilame BouzasPeñalba deSantiago

CabañasRaras

San Andrésde Montejos

Villafrancadel Bierzo Cacabelos

Ponferrada

SilRiver

BembibreValtuillede Abajo

Valtuillede Arriba

Dragonte

DO BIERZO Castile-Leon

W E B S I T E S

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JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 53

can produce something so highlyregarded by the rest of the world. Thelast few years have seen anextraordinary increase in the numberof wineries registered with the DO’sRegulatory Council: the current totalstands at 54. Eagerness to do more isin the air. The younger winery ownershave set up an association known asAutóctona to which 20 wineriesbelong. Its aim is to spread wineculture among its members, stagingperiodic tastings of wines from otherregions, bringing in wine experts togive master classes and helpingpromote their wines abroad.Like a volcano, Bierzo is seething,with new projects following hot on

the heels of the last, overlapping,combining and dissolving. Thevineyard is taking on increasingimportance, and plantations of oldvines are venerated and sought afterlike hidden treasure. Oenologistschange jobs and wineries morereadily here than in other, moreestablished winegrowing areas. Thedynamism is palpable: this part ofSpain is enjoying the heyday of acherished product.

Food and wine critic BartoloméSánchez has a special interest in wine.He is assistant director of Opus Wine,publisher of Vinum España andMiVino magazines.

52 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

granted official recognition, but forthe most part winery owners are inno doubt that Mencía is the varietythat contributes the crucialdifferentiating element. Big-namewhite varieties Gewürztraminer andChardonnay are also likely to beauthorized eventually on thegrounds that plots of them haveexisted here for some years.Incorporating additional varieties isone of the most problematic issueswhen it comes to modifyingregulations. Were they to bemodified, minimum percentageswould need to be established for thenew varieties.

Wine and itslandscapeThis broad sweep of land borderdedto the north by the Montes de Leónmountain chain, dominated by themajestic bulk of Monte Tileno, isparticularly picturesque when theyare snow-covered, as is the caseseveral times a year despite thethreat of global warming that hangs

over us like the sword of Damoclesthese days. Within thisamphitheatre, little valleysconfigure a rugged terrain ofdizzying slopes. The central valleywhere the majority of the vineyardsare concentrated, in and around its22 towns including Villafranca,Cacabelos, Upper and LowerValtuilles and Dragonte, is beautiful,enigmatic and dotted withvineyards. Other valleys, such asthe one in which Carracedo islocated, grow different crops andone can drive along in the shade ofapple, pear and cherry trees for mileafter mile. Vines are grown in thatvalley too and, because the soils areconsiderably richer there, givehigher, though never lavish, yields.But it is those other, older vineyardsup on the high ground andhillsides, where Mencía vines haveto fight to get what they need fromthe hard slate, that have worked thenew Bierzo miracle. The other sideof the valley is dominated by theAquilianos Mountains which closesit off to the south. Altitudes here,with the eminence of La Silla de la

Yegua towering over 2,000 m(6,560 ft), are the highest in Bierzo.Through this dedicatedlywinegrowing landscape, the river Silwends its way.

Onward andupwardThe irresistible rise of Bierzo’s wineshas brought many benefits to aregion where other industries, suchas mining, are in undeniablerecession. Having barely paid its wayin the past, the region’s wine is nowa prestigious product that can offerits young people a promising future.It is tempting to hope that, if currentconditions are sustained,winegrowing will provide apopulation historically doomed toemigrate with a reason to stay putrather than having to exchange thislovely landscape for an uncertainfuture.The wine sector exerts its pull on bothlocals and outsiders, but for thepeople of the area it is also inspiring todiscover that their land and vineyards

WINES

www.crdobierzo.esThe website of the RegulatoryCouncil of DO Bierzo includesinformation about local history,geography, grape varieties,wines, wineries and DOactivities. (Spanish)

www.turismobierzo.comThe ASBITUR (Association ofRural Tourism Businessmen ofBierzo) site provides localinformation with a touristic slant:routes, festivals, where and whatto eat, accommodation and auseful map. (Spanish)

BIERZO

5 km / 3.1 mi

Toral delos Vados

Camponaraya San Miguelde las Dueñas

Molinaseca

Noceda

Puente deDomingo Flórez

Dehesas

San Románde Bembibre

Cubillosdel Sil

Quilós

SésamoSan Martínde Moreda

Burbia

Sancedo

Matachana

Vega deEspinareda

Corullón

Carracedelo

Toral deMerayo

Carucedo

Castroquilame BouzasPeñalba deSantiago

CabañasRaras

San Andrésde Montejos

Villafrancadel Bierzo Cacabelos

Ponferrada

SilRiver

BembibreValtuillede Abajo

Valtuillede Arriba

Dragonte

DO BIERZO Castile-Leon

W E B S I T E S

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Spain is often said to be a small continent of its own. From snowy peaks to sandy beaches,from rustling creeks to vast plains, from dark forests to rocky mountain ranges, in whicheverdirection you turn, you’ll find a fascinating variety of starkly contrasting, unspoiled andbreathtakingly beautiful landscapes. With a view to revealing the splendid interior, the veryheart of Spain, to a wider and increasingly environmentally and health-conscious public,

since 1993, the Spanish Railroad Foundation has been coordinating the rehabilitation ofobsolete railway tracks. Its goal is to turn them into a country-wide network of comfortablewalking, cycling and horse riding trails, the so-called Vías Verdes or Greenways. This is thefirst of three articles that will take you through Spain, and there is no better place to startthan where Spanish culture was born.

Conquering theHeart of SpainVÍAS VERDES(I)

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Spain is often said to be a small continent of its own. From snowy peaks to sandy beaches,from rustling creeks to vast plains, from dark forests to rocky mountain ranges, in whicheverdirection you turn, you’ll find a fascinating variety of starkly contrasting, unspoiled andbreathtakingly beautiful landscapes. With a view to revealing the splendid interior, the veryheart of Spain, to a wider and increasingly environmentally and health-conscious public,

since 1993, the Spanish Railroad Foundation has been coordinating the rehabilitation ofobsolete railway tracks. Its goal is to turn them into a country-wide network of comfortablewalking, cycling and horse riding trails, the so-called Vías Verdes or Greenways. This is thefirst of three articles that will take you through Spain, and there is no better place to startthan where Spanish culture was born.

Conquering theHeart of SpainVÍAS VERDES(I)

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The Greenways are a nationwidenetwork of non-motorized, well-surfaced routes that have beenspecifically planned to accommodatehikers, bikers, and in most cases, thephysically challenged. What makesthese Greenways truly special is theirconvenience and natural beauty.They follow, in entirety, formerrailway tracks in disuse. As traditionhas it, railways are structured to beas flat and straight as possible, sotheir Greenways offspring are notonly easily accessible, safe andcomfortable, but in cutting acrossthe countryside, at every turn, theyoffer different, yet always fascinatingscenery, and a chance to trulyexperience nature. What makes traveling the Greenwayseven more interesting is the fact thatSpain’s countryside is speckled withpicturesque villages that rival Romanaqueducts, Moorish castles,Romanesque bridges and medievalmonasteries, as Spain also happensto hold one of the world’s largestnumber of cultural, historical andnatural National and World Heritagesites. And last but by no means least,there is Spain’s gastronomy, bothtraditional and innovative, that overthe last decade has earned moresuperlatives worldwide than anyother. Whichever Greenway youdecide to take, it will no doubt be afeast for the senses.This first installment, which focuses

on northern Spain, will take us alongboth the Vía Verde del Río Oja and theVía Verde de la Sierra de la Demanda,two almost contiguous routes that,while very different, also have manyaspects in common, since whatseparates them is the majestic Sierra ofthe same name.

How it all came aboutUntil the end of the 19th century, dueto taxing orographical conditions, agreat portion of Spain had remainedbarely accessible. The railway seemedan appropriate response to theincreasing demand for goods,especially ore and coal, in areas wherethey did not originate. Consequently, aconsiderable number of narrow trackswere laid throughout the country, but

soon became obsolete or were nevereven put to use due to thedevelopment of road structures soonthereafter. As a result, over 7,500km (4,657 mi) of often seriouslydilapidated, overgrown or floodedrailway tracks throughout thecountry have been patiently awaitingan alternative use. This momentcame when, in 1993, the SpanishRailway Foundation commissioned anationwide inventory that not onlyrevealed the abovementioned lengthof tracks but also nearly a thousandstations, another thousand bridges,five hundred tunnels and a hundredmining facilities. Its commissioner,the then Ministry of Public Works,Transport, and Environment,provided the initial funding tojump-start rehabilitation of a selectnumber of routes.Procedures and funding for thecreation and maintenance of past,present, and future Vías Verdes canbe rather complex, especially as ineach case the players involved aredifferent. “Each Vía Verde is a worldof its own,” explains Carmen Aycart,the director general of the SpanishRailway Foundation. Always underthe auspices and coordination of herorganization and in collaborationwith the Ministry of EnvironmentalAffairs, there can be any confluenceof citizen associations, town andregional councils, the Ministries ofTransport, Labour and Tourism, the

TEXTANKE VAN WIJCK ADÁN

PHOTOSJUAN MANUEL SANZ/ICEX

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The Greenways are a nationwidenetwork of non-motorized, well-surfaced routes that have beenspecifically planned to accommodatehikers, bikers, and in most cases, thephysically challenged. What makesthese Greenways truly special is theirconvenience and natural beauty.They follow, in entirety, formerrailway tracks in disuse. As traditionhas it, railways are structured to beas flat and straight as possible, sotheir Greenways offspring are notonly easily accessible, safe andcomfortable, but in cutting acrossthe countryside, at every turn, theyoffer different, yet always fascinatingscenery, and a chance to trulyexperience nature. What makes traveling the Greenwayseven more interesting is the fact thatSpain’s countryside is speckled withpicturesque villages that rival Romanaqueducts, Moorish castles,Romanesque bridges and medievalmonasteries, as Spain also happensto hold one of the world’s largestnumber of cultural, historical andnatural National and World Heritagesites. And last but by no means least,there is Spain’s gastronomy, bothtraditional and innovative, that overthe last decade has earned moresuperlatives worldwide than anyother. Whichever Greenway youdecide to take, it will no doubt be afeast for the senses.This first installment, which focuses

on northern Spain, will take us alongboth the Vía Verde del Río Oja and theVía Verde de la Sierra de la Demanda,two almost contiguous routes that,while very different, also have manyaspects in common, since whatseparates them is the majestic Sierra ofthe same name.

How it all came aboutUntil the end of the 19th century, dueto taxing orographical conditions, agreat portion of Spain had remainedbarely accessible. The railway seemedan appropriate response to theincreasing demand for goods,especially ore and coal, in areas wherethey did not originate. Consequently, aconsiderable number of narrow trackswere laid throughout the country, but

soon became obsolete or were nevereven put to use due to thedevelopment of road structures soonthereafter. As a result, over 7,500km (4,657 mi) of often seriouslydilapidated, overgrown or floodedrailway tracks throughout thecountry have been patiently awaitingan alternative use. This momentcame when, in 1993, the SpanishRailway Foundation commissioned anationwide inventory that not onlyrevealed the abovementioned lengthof tracks but also nearly a thousandstations, another thousand bridges,five hundred tunnels and a hundredmining facilities. Its commissioner,the then Ministry of Public Works,Transport, and Environment,provided the initial funding tojump-start rehabilitation of a selectnumber of routes.Procedures and funding for thecreation and maintenance of past,present, and future Vías Verdes canbe rather complex, especially as ineach case the players involved aredifferent. “Each Vía Verde is a worldof its own,” explains Carmen Aycart,the director general of the SpanishRailway Foundation. Always underthe auspices and coordination of herorganization and in collaborationwith the Ministry of EnvironmentalAffairs, there can be any confluenceof citizen associations, town andregional councils, the Ministries ofTransport, Labour and Tourism, the

TEXTANKE VAN WIJCK ADÁN

PHOTOSJUAN MANUEL SANZ/ICEX

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comprehensive website andpublished travel guides which alsoprovide useful information aboutrentals, accommodation, etc. This ismore of a travel log, a series ofimpressions and experiences aimedat whetting your appetite.Our first trip will take us over 26 km(16 mi) through the valley of thesmall Oja River from which, as mostsources agree, the world famouswine region borrows its name. Wewill start at the northern end of theVía Verde, in a small town calledCasalarreina. It is located some tenminutes from Haro, the town thatfeatures the largest concentration ofrenowned bodegas in Spain and iswidely known for its yearly Battle ofthe Wines (June 29th). It’s likewiseknown for its excellent gastronomy,especially in the form of tapas orpintxos (in Basque) that can besampled along the lively streets of LaHerradura (the Horseshoe).Casalarreina features a number ofinteresting buildings among whichthe well-kept 16th century Monasteriode Nuestra Señora de la Piedad(Monastery of Our Lady of Piety)

clearly stands out. The adjacentHospedería Señorío de Casalarreinahas been transformed into a charminghotel, the perfect place to inaugurateyour trip or eventually return to.It comes recommended by Rusticae,an internet portal offering carefully-selected and closely-monitored off-the-beaten-path small to medium-sized hotels that somehow give youthat instant feeling of being in theright spot. The Hospedería is noexception. The old and the new livein perfect harmony. Jacuzzis arepresent in all 15 rooms, and othermodern details have been fitted in sowell between wooden beams, brickwalls and ceilings made of winebarrel staves that they seem to be partof the original early 16th-centurystructures. Frescoes conjure up merryscenes from Renaissance tales ofchivalry and romance, enlivened bythe rustling sound of water. AsCasalarreina’s subsoil is an aquifer, asa means of controlling ground waterhumidity, the option was made to letit run freely through an open indoorcanal in the original wine cellarwhich was once connected to the

monastery, and is now a cozy loungewith two of the original 8,000 l(2,112 gal) barrels still in place.Being in the midst of wine country,the Hospedería is among a number ofhotels in the area where theorganization Vinoterapia, as its nameclearly suggests, offers wine therapytreatments. This is not aboutimmersion or luxurious spas, ofwhich there are quite a few in LaRioja; it is about relaxing in theintimacy of your own room at a veryreasonable price. “The Spa designedby Frank Gehry for the Marques deRiscal winery (Spain Gourmetour No.70) has become world famous, butfew can afford it,” explains CristinaGómez, the Hospedería’s welcomingmanager. She continues, “We all wantto be pampered at times and thetherapies here are more affordable,and in fact they have given us quite abit of publicity.” Angel Retana,Vinoterapia’s founder, couldn’t agreemore. “Monuments are easilyforgotten, but experiences remainand are passed on by word-of-mouth,” he remarks convincingly. Ina relaxing atmosphere created with

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Department of Forestry, etc. And ofcourse, there is the crucial role ofthe national Spanish railwaycompanies (Renfe, Adif and Feve)that have readily granted both theuse of many of their tracks andbuildings as well as their know-howto these ends. Full and swiftrehabilitation of the available tracksat times is thwarted by a series ofcomplexities. As some stretches andedifices are in private hands,expropriation and other legal issuescan be rather painstaking.Additionally, the tracks run acrossthe countryside and existing rightsof way, some of which are centuriesold, must be safeguarded at alltimes. And finally there are also thehuge costs of planning, demolitionand resurfacing, reconstruction oftunnels, bridges, underpasses andintersections, as well as appropriatesignage, to name just a few.Yet with ever increasing enthusiasm,towns and villages (generallygrouped in ad hoc associations) thatpride themselves on having apotential Greenway in their territory,are jumping on the bandwagon.

With small-scale rural andagricultural activities in decay andkeenly aware of the natural andhistorical treasures that theseremoved areas hold, mayorsthroughout the country nowwelcome and effectively target thenew trend of active nature tourism.“Tourism is clearly heading in thedirection of more sustainableproducts with the added value ofterritory and nature,” states MónicaFigueroa matter-of-factly. Figueroa,who is the dynamic and committeddirector general of tourism for theregion of La Rioja, adds that whatenhances the value of the Greenwaysis the fact that they offer analternative to existing tourismproducts. They are enormously user-friendly, utilize and improve existingstructures while fully respecting theirnatural setting and, as Julio Verdú, incharge of the Vías Verdes in La Riojaexplains, they provide aneducational aspect through theircomprehensive signage whichincludes landscape evaluation,interpretation of the environment,ornithological and archaeological

information, railway history, and ofcourse maps and directions. “Wewant the Vía Verde to be more than asporting route,” he claims. Travelingthe tranquil Greenways not onlyallows us to enjoy a wealth of naturaland historical legacies at a slow pace,but it also allows us to interact withthe locals. Furthermore, theGreenways have been shown toincisively effect the social fabric ofadjacent villages through therehabilitation of monuments andnatural spaces, often in collaborationwith local handcrafters andworkshops, by providing jobs andencouraging local participation. Thefact is, throughout Spain, at thispoint, not only 64 Greenways with atotal length of 1,600 km (994 mi)have been made available to thegreater public, but a sizable numberof new ones are being programmedor are about to be implemented.

Getting underwayThis article is not meant to be anaccurate guide to the Vías Verdes; forthat we refer you to their

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comprehensive website andpublished travel guides which alsoprovide useful information aboutrentals, accommodation, etc. This ismore of a travel log, a series ofimpressions and experiences aimedat whetting your appetite.Our first trip will take us over 26 km(16 mi) through the valley of thesmall Oja River from which, as mostsources agree, the world famouswine region borrows its name. Wewill start at the northern end of theVía Verde, in a small town calledCasalarreina. It is located some tenminutes from Haro, the town thatfeatures the largest concentration ofrenowned bodegas in Spain and iswidely known for its yearly Battle ofthe Wines (June 29th). It’s likewiseknown for its excellent gastronomy,especially in the form of tapas orpintxos (in Basque) that can besampled along the lively streets of LaHerradura (the Horseshoe).Casalarreina features a number ofinteresting buildings among whichthe well-kept 16th century Monasteriode Nuestra Señora de la Piedad(Monastery of Our Lady of Piety)

clearly stands out. The adjacentHospedería Señorío de Casalarreinahas been transformed into a charminghotel, the perfect place to inaugurateyour trip or eventually return to.It comes recommended by Rusticae,an internet portal offering carefully-selected and closely-monitored off-the-beaten-path small to medium-sized hotels that somehow give youthat instant feeling of being in theright spot. The Hospedería is noexception. The old and the new livein perfect harmony. Jacuzzis arepresent in all 15 rooms, and othermodern details have been fitted in sowell between wooden beams, brickwalls and ceilings made of winebarrel staves that they seem to be partof the original early 16th-centurystructures. Frescoes conjure up merryscenes from Renaissance tales ofchivalry and romance, enlivened bythe rustling sound of water. AsCasalarreina’s subsoil is an aquifer, asa means of controlling ground waterhumidity, the option was made to letit run freely through an open indoorcanal in the original wine cellarwhich was once connected to the

monastery, and is now a cozy loungewith two of the original 8,000 l(2,112 gal) barrels still in place.Being in the midst of wine country,the Hospedería is among a number ofhotels in the area where theorganization Vinoterapia, as its nameclearly suggests, offers wine therapytreatments. This is not aboutimmersion or luxurious spas, ofwhich there are quite a few in LaRioja; it is about relaxing in theintimacy of your own room at a veryreasonable price. “The Spa designedby Frank Gehry for the Marques deRiscal winery (Spain Gourmetour No.70) has become world famous, butfew can afford it,” explains CristinaGómez, the Hospedería’s welcomingmanager. She continues, “We all wantto be pampered at times and thetherapies here are more affordable,and in fact they have given us quite abit of publicity.” Angel Retana,Vinoterapia’s founder, couldn’t agreemore. “Monuments are easilyforgotten, but experiences remainand are passed on by word-of-mouth,” he remarks convincingly. Ina relaxing atmosphere created with

VÍAS VERDES

AROUND&ABOUT

Department of Forestry, etc. And ofcourse, there is the crucial role ofthe national Spanish railwaycompanies (Renfe, Adif and Feve)that have readily granted both theuse of many of their tracks andbuildings as well as their know-howto these ends. Full and swiftrehabilitation of the available tracksat times is thwarted by a series ofcomplexities. As some stretches andedifices are in private hands,expropriation and other legal issuescan be rather painstaking.Additionally, the tracks run acrossthe countryside and existing rightsof way, some of which are centuriesold, must be safeguarded at alltimes. And finally there are also thehuge costs of planning, demolitionand resurfacing, reconstruction oftunnels, bridges, underpasses andintersections, as well as appropriatesignage, to name just a few.Yet with ever increasing enthusiasm,towns and villages (generallygrouped in ad hoc associations) thatpride themselves on having apotential Greenway in their territory,are jumping on the bandwagon.

With small-scale rural andagricultural activities in decay andkeenly aware of the natural andhistorical treasures that theseremoved areas hold, mayorsthroughout the country nowwelcome and effectively target thenew trend of active nature tourism.“Tourism is clearly heading in thedirection of more sustainableproducts with the added value ofterritory and nature,” states MónicaFigueroa matter-of-factly. Figueroa,who is the dynamic and committeddirector general of tourism for theregion of La Rioja, adds that whatenhances the value of the Greenwaysis the fact that they offer analternative to existing tourismproducts. They are enormously user-friendly, utilize and improve existingstructures while fully respecting theirnatural setting and, as Julio Verdú, incharge of the Vías Verdes in La Riojaexplains, they provide aneducational aspect through theircomprehensive signage whichincludes landscape evaluation,interpretation of the environment,ornithological and archaeological

information, railway history, and ofcourse maps and directions. “Wewant the Vía Verde to be more than asporting route,” he claims. Travelingthe tranquil Greenways not onlyallows us to enjoy a wealth of naturaland historical legacies at a slow pace,but it also allows us to interact withthe locals. Furthermore, theGreenways have been shown toincisively effect the social fabric ofadjacent villages through therehabilitation of monuments andnatural spaces, often in collaborationwith local handcrafters andworkshops, by providing jobs andencouraging local participation. Thefact is, throughout Spain, at thispoint, not only 64 Greenways with atotal length of 1,600 km (994 mi)have been made available to thegreater public, but a sizable numberof new ones are being programmedor are about to be implemented.

Getting underwayThis article is not meant to be anaccurate guide to the Vías Verdes; forthat we refer you to their

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Pero la historia completa tendrán queaveriguarla los lectores.Sin embargo, no todo es místico en estaciudad. A cinco minutos andandodesde la catedral, en la principal callecomercial, en la pastelería Isidro(calle Pinar, 52), Ana Hernando y suhermano son la tercera generacióndedicada a la elaboración de los“ahorcaditos”, una masa de hojaldremuy ligera y con forma de concha(el símbolo universal del Camino deSantiago), rellena de crema de almendraque tiene en la parte superior la imagenen color dorado tostado del famosojoven ahorcado. Pero será mejor que losguardemos para luego, porque a estahora ya tendremos suficiente apetitopara una deliciosa y reconstituyentecomida. Hidalgo es nuestro sitio(calle Hilario Pérez, 10). Se trata de unpequeño restaurante situado en elprimer piso de un edificio ubicado enun callejón que conduce a la catedral.El menú diario cuesta 15 euros y,aunque la variedad de platos es muyamplia, éste es sin duda el lugar másadecuado para descubrir ese deliciosoestofado tradicional hecho concaparrones “coloraos” de Anguiano queprepara primorosamente María Luisa,dueña y señora de la cocina, sus callosa la riojana, un poquito picantes, perosorprendentemente ligeros, o suspostres caseros. Es recomendablepasarse antes por allí para reservar unamesa y luego esperar en el bar deenfrente tomando un marianito(un vermut pequeño con hielo)y una ración de la característica tortillade patatas.Ahora, antes de dirigirnos al sur paraun agradable paseo después de comer,y suponiendo que hayamos concertadocita previamente (+34 941 34 26 48),Blanca Pozo estará encantada deenseñarnos su colección de almazuelas,una artesanía textil tradicional

de acuerdo. “Los monumentosse olvidan con facilidad, pero lasexperiencias permanecen y setransmiten de boca en boca”, señala conconvicción. En una atmósfera relajante,creada con velas pequeñas, una músicachill-out suave y un ligero olor aincienso, un equipo de dos personas leofrecerá una degustación de vino enprimer lugar. A esto le sigue untratamiento de limpieza en profundidadde la piel con un producto de peelinghecho a base de pepitas de uvatempranillo y de los taninos de la piel dela uva, seguido de un masaje relajante.Antes de irse, el equipo le prepararáel jacuzzi. Y ahora para alcanzar lafelicidad absoluta, ¿qué tal una cena enla Vieja Bodega? El restaurante estáa diez minutos del centro deCasalarreina dando un cómodo paseo yes todo un paradigma en cuanto a laforma correcta de interpretar y renovarla cocina tradicional: productos frescosde primera clase, preferiblemente localeso regionales, y la menor interferenciaposible en su sabor y textura originales.El propio restaurante, una bodegadel siglo XVII completamente restauradaque al mismo tiempo satisfacelas necesidades modernas, reflejaesta filosofía.

Nos unimosa los peregrinosDespués de una noche de profundosueño y un reconstituyente desayuno,cogemos las bicicletas del garajeespecial de la Hospedería (la mayorparte de los hoteles de la zona ofreceneste servicio), cruzamos el puente depiedra frente a nosotros sobre el río Ojay comenzamos la ruta. Este itinerariorural nos llevará por llanuras de trigo ycebada y ocasionalmente por viñedosy plantaciones de guisantes y judíasverdes de proporciones considerables.

No hace tanto que, prácticamente,había solo patatas. Algunos vecinoslocales todavía recuerdan que los trenesderrapaban y tenían que reducir lavelocidad porque los escarabajos de lapatata invadían los raíles. En las zonasaledañas a los pueblos que salpican laruta, especialmente Castañares yBañares, pero también más al sur,encontramos todavía huertos llenos deplantas de judías colgadas a una altura

considerable. Allí se produce el famosocaparrón, una legumbre pequeña decolor marrón oscuro y moteada, queconstituye el ingrediente principal deuno de los platos más tradicionales dela zona. Roberto Bañares, productorcomercial, nos explica que las quese cuelgan son generalmente para usodoméstico. A una escala mayor, lasplantas de judías se mantienen enel suelo y se cosechan con mediosmecánicos, lo cual resulta máseconómico. “En los últimos seis o sieteaños el consumo ha vuelto a crecer,porque las legumbres son uningrediente fundamental de laelogiadísima dieta mediterránea”,comenta Roberto. Esta diminuta

legumbre es uno de los nexos de uniónentre las dos rutas. En esta parte recibelos nombres de caparrón de Aguiano(rojo) o caparrón de Castañares(moteado), en tanto que en la de la sierrade la Demanda, donde no es menoscodiciada, se denomina alubia de Ibeas.Justo después de haber cruzado la antiguacalzada romana, que también formó partedel Camino de Santiago, pasamos por lasruinas de la vieja estación de Bañares,testimonio de una línea de ferrocarrilactualmente muerta. Un poco más allá,encontramos,sin embargo, variasestaciones muy bien rehabilitadas. Esposible que en nuestra Vía Verde nosencontremos con vecinos de la zona quela utilizan para hacer ejercicio odesplazarse cómodamente a laslocalidades cercanas. “Ésta es una zonarural y hasta no hace mucho nadiealquilaba bicicletas”, dice Ollero,propietario de una tienda de bicicletas enSanto Domingo, “pero desde que tenemosla Vía Verde, cada vez las compra másgente. Valoran mucho no tener quepreocuparse de los coches”.No muy a lo lejos, podemos distinguir laaguja de la catedral de Santo Domingode la Calzada, parada obligatoria en elCamino de Santiago desde hace más dediez siglos. Aquí nos uniremos a losperegrinos que, solos o en grupospequeños llegados de todos los rinconesdel mundo, van derechos al Albergue delPeregrino, que fundó Santo Domingo enel siglo XI. Al igual que sus predecesoresde hace unos mil años, pueden pasar allíla noche gratis, aunque, por supuesto, seagradecen las donaciones voluntarias.La catedral, que alberga la tumba deSanto Domingo, bien merece una visita,especialmente por la sorpresa que a buenseguro provocará en el viajero la cresta deun gallo en lo alto. Son las reliquias vivasdel milagro más contado de SantoDomingo, que salvó a un joven peregrinode morir ajusticiado en la horca.

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making ahorcaditos, a wonderfullylight, shell-shaped (the universalsymbol of St. James’ Way) puffpastry filled with almond cream withthe golden brown-baked image ofthe famous young man hanged ontop. But you’d be better off savingthem for later, because by now youwill have worked up enough of anappetite for a good, energizing meal.The Hidalgo is your place (HilarioPérez, 10). It is a small first floorrestaurant on a narrow street thatleads up to the cathedral. Their dailymenu goes for 15 euros, andalthough the selection is extensive,this certainly is the place to acquaintyourself with the delicioustraditional red bean stew calledcaparrones “coloraos” de Anguiano,lovingly prepared by Maria Luisawho reigns in the kitchen, or herslightly spicy but surprisingly lightcallos a la riojana (tripe) andhomemade desserts. It is wise toreserve a table beforehand and thenwait to be seated in their bar acrossthe street while having a marianito (asmall vermouth on the rocks) and awedge of their trademark tortilla depatatas (potato omelette).Now before heading south for apleasant afternoon ride, andprovided you have made a previousappointment, Blanca Pozo will behappy to show you her collection ofalmazuelas, an old traditionalhandicraft in La Rioja that hadalmost died out, but has beenrecovered thanks to the efforts oflocal and regional administrations.Fifteen years ago Blanca took herfirst course and became so fascinatedthat she has not only made it herbusiness, but now she gives coursesthroughout La Rioja.

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tiny wax lights, soothing chill outmusic, and the smell of incensewafting through the air, a team oftwo will first offer a wine tasting. Itis ensued by a deep skin cleansingtreatment with a peeling productmade of Tempranillo grape pipsand grape skin tannins, followedby a soothing massage. The teamwill prepare your Jacuzzi beforethey leave.And now, to experience true ecstasy,how about dinner at La ViejaBodega? The restaurant is just a tenminute walk from Casalarreina’scenter and is paradigmatic of theright way to interpret and renewtraditional cuisine: using first-classfresh and preferably local or regionalproducts while interfering as little aspossible with the original flavor andtexture. The restaurant’s settingequally reflects this philosophy: it isa fully restored 17th-century winecellar that simultaneously meetsmodern day requirements.

Joining the pilgrimsAfter a sound sleep and aninvigorating breakfast, we will pickup our bikes at the Hospedería’sspecial storage room (most hotels inthe area have such facilities), cross thebeautiful old stone bridge over theOja River right in front of us and beon our way. This rural route will takeus through flat wheat and barleyfields, occasional patches of vines andsizable plantations of peas and greenbeans. Not so long ago there weremostly potatoes. Some locals stillremember that the train would skidand have to reduce its speed becauseof potato bugs invading the rails. Inthe areas immediately around thevillages dotting this route, especially

in Castañares and Bañares but alsofurther south, we still find patches ofbean plants strung up high. Theyproduce the famous caparrón, a tinyred-brown or speckled dried beanthat is the main ingredient of one ofthe most traditional dishes in thearea. Roberto Bañares, a commercialgrower, explains that the ones strungup are generally for domestic use.

On a larger scale, bean plants noware kept low and are mechanicallyharvested, which is far more cost-effective. “Over the last six or sevenyears consumption has grownagain, as legumes are an importantingredient of the highly acclaimedMediterranean diet,” he says. Thistiny bean is one of the factors thatlinks our two routes. Here it iscalled Caparrón de Anguiano (red) orCaparrón de Castañares (speckled)and on the other side of the Sierrade la Demanda, it is known asAlubia de Ibeas.Just after having crossed an ancientRoman road that also used to be part

of St. James’ Way, we will pass by theruins of the old station of Bañares,bearing witness to a now defunctrailroad. Further along however, wewill find several nicely rehabilitatedstations. We may also be sharing ourGreenway with locals that use it as asource of exercise or to comfortablyreach nearby villages. “This is a ruralarea and not so long ago nobodywould ride a bike,” says Ollero, theowner of a bicycle store in SantoDomingo, “but since we have the VíaVerde, people here buy them more andmore. They appreciate having notraffic to worry about.”Not too distantly afar we can nowdistinguish the spire of the SantoDomingo de la Calzada Cathedral, forover ten centuries an obligated stop onSt. James’ Way. Here we will join thepilgrims who, alone or in smallgroups, trickle in from all over theworld, often headed straight towardsthe Pilgrims’ Inn which was foundedby Santo Domingo in the 11th century.Exactly like their predecessors over athousand years ago, they can stayovernight for free, although anyvoluntary contribution is of coursewelcome. The cathedral, home to thetomb of Saint Domingo, is certainlywell worth a visit, especially since youwill surely be surprised by the crowingof a rooster coming from high above.They are the life relics of SaintDomingo’s most telling miracle: savinga young pilgrim from death byhanging. But how it all came about isfor you to find out.However, not everything is mysticalabout this town. A five minute walkfrom the cathedral on the mainshopping street, at the pastry shopIsidro (Pinar, 52), Ana Hernando andher brother are the third generation in

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Pero la historia completa tendrán queaveriguarla los lectores.Sin embargo, no todo es místico en estaciudad. A cinco minutos andandodesde la catedral, en la principal callecomercial, en la pastelería Isidro(calle Pinar, 52), Ana Hernando y suhermano son la tercera generacióndedicada a la elaboración de los“ahorcaditos”, una masa de hojaldremuy ligera y con forma de concha(el símbolo universal del Camino deSantiago), rellena de crema de almendraque tiene en la parte superior la imagenen color dorado tostado del famosojoven ahorcado. Pero será mejor que losguardemos para luego, porque a estahora ya tendremos suficiente apetitopara una deliciosa y reconstituyentecomida. Hidalgo es nuestro sitio(calle Hilario Pérez, 10). Se trata de unpequeño restaurante situado en elprimer piso de un edificio ubicado enun callejón que conduce a la catedral.El menú diario cuesta 15 euros y,aunque la variedad de platos es muyamplia, éste es sin duda el lugar másadecuado para descubrir ese deliciosoestofado tradicional hecho concaparrones “coloraos” de Anguiano queprepara primorosamente María Luisa,dueña y señora de la cocina, sus callosa la riojana, un poquito picantes, perosorprendentemente ligeros, o suspostres caseros. Es recomendablepasarse antes por allí para reservar unamesa y luego esperar en el bar deenfrente tomando un marianito(un vermut pequeño con hielo)y una ración de la característica tortillade patatas.Ahora, antes de dirigirnos al sur paraun agradable paseo después de comer,y suponiendo que hayamos concertadocita previamente (+34 941 34 26 48),Blanca Pozo estará encantada deenseñarnos su colección de almazuelas,una artesanía textil tradicional

de acuerdo. “Los monumentosse olvidan con facilidad, pero lasexperiencias permanecen y setransmiten de boca en boca”, señala conconvicción. En una atmósfera relajante,creada con velas pequeñas, una músicachill-out suave y un ligero olor aincienso, un equipo de dos personas leofrecerá una degustación de vino enprimer lugar. A esto le sigue untratamiento de limpieza en profundidadde la piel con un producto de peelinghecho a base de pepitas de uvatempranillo y de los taninos de la piel dela uva, seguido de un masaje relajante.Antes de irse, el equipo le prepararáel jacuzzi. Y ahora para alcanzar lafelicidad absoluta, ¿qué tal una cena enla Vieja Bodega? El restaurante estáa diez minutos del centro deCasalarreina dando un cómodo paseo yes todo un paradigma en cuanto a laforma correcta de interpretar y renovarla cocina tradicional: productos frescosde primera clase, preferiblemente localeso regionales, y la menor interferenciaposible en su sabor y textura originales.El propio restaurante, una bodegadel siglo XVII completamente restauradaque al mismo tiempo satisfacelas necesidades modernas, reflejaesta filosofía.

Nos unimosa los peregrinosDespués de una noche de profundosueño y un reconstituyente desayuno,cogemos las bicicletas del garajeespecial de la Hospedería (la mayorparte de los hoteles de la zona ofreceneste servicio), cruzamos el puente depiedra frente a nosotros sobre el río Ojay comenzamos la ruta. Este itinerariorural nos llevará por llanuras de trigo ycebada y ocasionalmente por viñedosy plantaciones de guisantes y judíasverdes de proporciones considerables.

No hace tanto que, prácticamente,había solo patatas. Algunos vecinoslocales todavía recuerdan que los trenesderrapaban y tenían que reducir lavelocidad porque los escarabajos de lapatata invadían los raíles. En las zonasaledañas a los pueblos que salpican laruta, especialmente Castañares yBañares, pero también más al sur,encontramos todavía huertos llenos deplantas de judías colgadas a una altura

considerable. Allí se produce el famosocaparrón, una legumbre pequeña decolor marrón oscuro y moteada, queconstituye el ingrediente principal deuno de los platos más tradicionales dela zona. Roberto Bañares, productorcomercial, nos explica que las quese cuelgan son generalmente para usodoméstico. A una escala mayor, lasplantas de judías se mantienen enel suelo y se cosechan con mediosmecánicos, lo cual resulta máseconómico. “En los últimos seis o sieteaños el consumo ha vuelto a crecer,porque las legumbres son uningrediente fundamental de laelogiadísima dieta mediterránea”,comenta Roberto. Esta diminuta

legumbre es uno de los nexos de uniónentre las dos rutas. En esta parte recibelos nombres de caparrón de Aguiano(rojo) o caparrón de Castañares(moteado), en tanto que en la de la sierrade la Demanda, donde no es menoscodiciada, se denomina alubia de Ibeas.Justo después de haber cruzado la antiguacalzada romana, que también formó partedel Camino de Santiago, pasamos por lasruinas de la vieja estación de Bañares,testimonio de una línea de ferrocarrilactualmente muerta. Un poco más allá,encontramos,sin embargo, variasestaciones muy bien rehabilitadas. Esposible que en nuestra Vía Verde nosencontremos con vecinos de la zona quela utilizan para hacer ejercicio odesplazarse cómodamente a laslocalidades cercanas. “Ésta es una zonarural y hasta no hace mucho nadiealquilaba bicicletas”, dice Ollero,propietario de una tienda de bicicletas enSanto Domingo, “pero desde que tenemosla Vía Verde, cada vez las compra másgente. Valoran mucho no tener quepreocuparse de los coches”.No muy a lo lejos, podemos distinguir laaguja de la catedral de Santo Domingode la Calzada, parada obligatoria en elCamino de Santiago desde hace más dediez siglos. Aquí nos uniremos a losperegrinos que, solos o en grupospequeños llegados de todos los rinconesdel mundo, van derechos al Albergue delPeregrino, que fundó Santo Domingo enel siglo XI. Al igual que sus predecesoresde hace unos mil años, pueden pasar allíla noche gratis, aunque, por supuesto, seagradecen las donaciones voluntarias.La catedral, que alberga la tumba deSanto Domingo, bien merece una visita,especialmente por la sorpresa que a buenseguro provocará en el viajero la cresta deun gallo en lo alto. Son las reliquias vivasdel milagro más contado de SantoDomingo, que salvó a un joven peregrinode morir ajusticiado en la horca.

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making ahorcaditos, a wonderfullylight, shell-shaped (the universalsymbol of St. James’ Way) puffpastry filled with almond cream withthe golden brown-baked image ofthe famous young man hanged ontop. But you’d be better off savingthem for later, because by now youwill have worked up enough of anappetite for a good, energizing meal.The Hidalgo is your place (HilarioPérez, 10). It is a small first floorrestaurant on a narrow street thatleads up to the cathedral. Their dailymenu goes for 15 euros, andalthough the selection is extensive,this certainly is the place to acquaintyourself with the delicioustraditional red bean stew calledcaparrones “coloraos” de Anguiano,lovingly prepared by Maria Luisawho reigns in the kitchen, or herslightly spicy but surprisingly lightcallos a la riojana (tripe) andhomemade desserts. It is wise toreserve a table beforehand and thenwait to be seated in their bar acrossthe street while having a marianito (asmall vermouth on the rocks) and awedge of their trademark tortilla depatatas (potato omelette).Now before heading south for apleasant afternoon ride, andprovided you have made a previousappointment, Blanca Pozo will behappy to show you her collection ofalmazuelas, an old traditionalhandicraft in La Rioja that hadalmost died out, but has beenrecovered thanks to the efforts oflocal and regional administrations.Fifteen years ago Blanca took herfirst course and became so fascinatedthat she has not only made it herbusiness, but now she gives coursesthroughout La Rioja.

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tiny wax lights, soothing chill outmusic, and the smell of incensewafting through the air, a team oftwo will first offer a wine tasting. Itis ensued by a deep skin cleansingtreatment with a peeling productmade of Tempranillo grape pipsand grape skin tannins, followedby a soothing massage. The teamwill prepare your Jacuzzi beforethey leave.And now, to experience true ecstasy,how about dinner at La ViejaBodega? The restaurant is just a tenminute walk from Casalarreina’scenter and is paradigmatic of theright way to interpret and renewtraditional cuisine: using first-classfresh and preferably local or regionalproducts while interfering as little aspossible with the original flavor andtexture. The restaurant’s settingequally reflects this philosophy: it isa fully restored 17th-century winecellar that simultaneously meetsmodern day requirements.

Joining the pilgrimsAfter a sound sleep and aninvigorating breakfast, we will pickup our bikes at the Hospedería’sspecial storage room (most hotels inthe area have such facilities), cross thebeautiful old stone bridge over theOja River right in front of us and beon our way. This rural route will takeus through flat wheat and barleyfields, occasional patches of vines andsizable plantations of peas and greenbeans. Not so long ago there weremostly potatoes. Some locals stillremember that the train would skidand have to reduce its speed becauseof potato bugs invading the rails. Inthe areas immediately around thevillages dotting this route, especially

in Castañares and Bañares but alsofurther south, we still find patches ofbean plants strung up high. Theyproduce the famous caparrón, a tinyred-brown or speckled dried beanthat is the main ingredient of one ofthe most traditional dishes in thearea. Roberto Bañares, a commercialgrower, explains that the ones strungup are generally for domestic use.

On a larger scale, bean plants noware kept low and are mechanicallyharvested, which is far more cost-effective. “Over the last six or sevenyears consumption has grownagain, as legumes are an importantingredient of the highly acclaimedMediterranean diet,” he says. Thistiny bean is one of the factors thatlinks our two routes. Here it iscalled Caparrón de Anguiano (red) orCaparrón de Castañares (speckled)and on the other side of the Sierrade la Demanda, it is known asAlubia de Ibeas.Just after having crossed an ancientRoman road that also used to be part

of St. James’ Way, we will pass by theruins of the old station of Bañares,bearing witness to a now defunctrailroad. Further along however, wewill find several nicely rehabilitatedstations. We may also be sharing ourGreenway with locals that use it as asource of exercise or to comfortablyreach nearby villages. “This is a ruralarea and not so long ago nobodywould ride a bike,” says Ollero, theowner of a bicycle store in SantoDomingo, “but since we have the VíaVerde, people here buy them more andmore. They appreciate having notraffic to worry about.”Not too distantly afar we can nowdistinguish the spire of the SantoDomingo de la Calzada Cathedral, forover ten centuries an obligated stop onSt. James’ Way. Here we will join thepilgrims who, alone or in smallgroups, trickle in from all over theworld, often headed straight towardsthe Pilgrims’ Inn which was foundedby Santo Domingo in the 11th century.Exactly like their predecessors over athousand years ago, they can stayovernight for free, although anyvoluntary contribution is of coursewelcome. The cathedral, home to thetomb of Saint Domingo, is certainlywell worth a visit, especially since youwill surely be surprised by the crowingof a rooster coming from high above.They are the life relics of SaintDomingo’s most telling miracle: savinga young pilgrim from death byhanging. But how it all came about isfor you to find out.However, not everything is mysticalabout this town. A five minute walkfrom the cathedral on the mainshopping street, at the pastry shopIsidro (Pinar, 52), Ana Hernando andher brother are the third generation in

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Nuestra ruta terminará en laperfectamente restaurada estación detren de Ezcaray, en la actualidad unrestaurante muy concurrido que recibeno solo a un considerable número deciclistas, especialmente en verano, sinotambién de esquiadores procedentes dela cercana estación de esquí deValdezcaray. Cruzamos otro hermosopuente de piedra sobre el río Oja, yEzcaray ya es nuestro. El nombre de estapequeña población, repleta de balconesde los que cuelgan geranios de coloresvivos y hortensias de delicados tonospastel, se debe a la mencionada peña deSan Torcuato (Aitz-Garai, o peña alta envasco). La influencia vasca viene deantiguo, de la época en que en el casiaislado valle del río Oja se siguióhablando esta lengua, como loatestiguan los numerosos topónimosvascos. Más recientemente, durante laépoca de la industrialización de Bilbao,los doctores mandabansistemáticamente a los pacientes conproblemas respiratorios a recuperarsecon el aire de montaña limpio y seco deEzcaray. Desde entonces muchos se hanconstruido aquí una segunda casa y poreso es en la actualidad un prósperodestino turístico y una zona residencial.

Como resultado de su emplazamientonatural a los pies de la sierra de laDemanda, Ezcaray fue importante en elpasado por su hierro e incluso por suspequeños yacimientos de oro, así comopor su madera; sin embargo, fueron susindustrias textil y lanera las que hicieronmundialmente famosa a esta localidad.De hecho, el rey Carlos III (siglo XVIII)fundó aquí la Real Fábrica de Paños, enla actualidad restaurada y convertida enun enorme hotel. Sin embargo, de lascasi treinta fábricas textiles, hoy en díasolo una de ellas se mantiene. Laempresa Hijos de Cecilio Valgañón, S.A.está dirigida por cinco hermanos yproduce unas mantas y unos echarpesde mohair magníficos, tejidos a mano,ligeros y teñidos con mucha habilidad,además de chales y bufandas decachemira a precios asequibles. Aunquemuchos clientes vienen expresamente acomprar aquí, también reciben pedidosde Ralph Lauren, Loewe o Zara.Aparentemente, no necesitan ningúncartel comercial, solo un escaparate a lacalle en el bien restaurado edificio querepresenta un enorme telar antiguodonde en otros tiempos se guardabanovejas. “Cualquiera aquí te indicará elcamino”, nos comenta uno de sus

sobrinos, Andrés Valgañón. Además dela pequeña y encantadora posadallamada La Cuculla, Andrés dirige unaempresa que ofrece lo que constituyeexactamente uno de los principalesatractivos de Ezcaray: los deportesnaturales. Aparte de alquilar bicicletas,Andrés organiza actividades comociclismo, senderismo, montañismoy excursiones de otro tipo por la zona,previa petición. “La Vía Verde es sinduda la más fácil”, comenta convencido.Con todas estas actividades, no resultasorprendente que la comida tengatambién un destacado papelprotagonista y cuenta con elemblemático restaurante Echaurrencomo embajador. Mucha gente,especialmente del País Vasco, viene adegustar los pinchos a los numerososcafés y restaurantes de la plaza delQuiosco y la plaza de la Verdura. La cazay las setas, productos ligados una vezmás a su situación montañosa, sonfundamentales en la gastronomíaregional. Luis Ángel Sotanas, miembrode la asociación local de caza, explicaque aunque la caza está estrictamentecontrolada por el ministerio de MedioAmbiente, sus productos abundanaquí: aves como becadas, palomas

de La Rioja que estuvo a puntode desaparecer y se ha recuperadogracias a los esfuerzos de lasadministraciones locales y regionales.Blanca asistió a su primer curso hacequince años y quedó tan fascinada quedesde entonces no solo ha abierto unatienda, sino que imparte tambiéncursos en La Rioja.La almazuela es una técnica manualmuy similar al patchwork, pero comoBlanca se encarga de subrayar, losdibujos son siempre rectilíneos. Estostrabajos a mano, nacidos de lanecesidad de aprovechar los mejorestrozos de las prendas de vestirdesgastadas, son hoy en día un lujo.Las almazuelas de Blanca,confeccionadas con telas elegantesy de preciosos dibujos, a menudointrincados, pueden adoptar la formade colchas, cortinas, bolsos, etc. y sepueden hacer también de encargo.

En direccióna la peñade San TorcuatoAunque hasta ahora nuestra Vía Verdeha sido pan comido, a partir de estemomento comenzaremos a notar que seva empinando suavemente hacia lasestribaciones de la sierra de la Demanda.Aunque exija algún trabajo muscularextra, merece la pena abandonar nuestraruta para visitar los pueblos pequeñosde los alrededores, como Santurde ySanturdejo, pero en especial Ojacastro,al que se llega descendiendo desde laantigua estación, actualmente asilo dereligiosas, y cruzando un puente depiedra sobre el río Oja. Además de unaermita del siglo XIII, una hermosaiglesia y una plaza, lo que más destacaen este lugar es su tradicional y bienpreservada arquitectura de montaña.

Justo al lado de la iglesia, encontramosun pequeño taller de vidrio, regentadopor Gabriela Lamas. Gabrielaconfecciona no solo objetos de vivoscolores, sino también joyas de unasorprendente delicadeza, fabricadasenteramente en cristal. La mayoría desus clientes proceden de la cercanalocalidad de Ezcaray, pero desde que hapuesto un pequeño letrero en la VíaVerde, ha notado un notable aumentode visitantes a su tienda. Y es haciaEzcaray adonde nos dirigimos comoúltima parada en nuestra ruta a lo largodel río Oja. Pero antes, disfrutaremosdel sin duda más hermoso tramo de estaVía Verde. Con la peña de San Torcuatocomo telón de fondo, un prominentepeñasco, sello distintivo de esta región,adornado de helechos y cardos de unintenso color púrpura, nuestro caminonos adentra por momentos en las víasdel tren excavadas en el cercano bosque.

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borrows its name from theaforementioned Peña de Torcuato(Aitz-Garai or tall cliff in Basque).The Basque influence is longstanding from when the languagewas spoken in the fairly isolatedvalley of the Oja River. This isclearly shown in the many Basquetoponyms. More recently, duringthe industrialization of Bilbao,doctors consistently sent overpatients with respiratory problemsto recover in Ezcaray’s clean and drymountain air. Since then many havebuilt a second home here, andtoday it is a thriving touristdestination and residential area. Asfollows from its natural setting atthe foot of the Sierra de laDemanda, historically Ezcaray wasimportant for its iron, its minorgold mines and its timber, but whatmade it internationally famous wereits wool and fabric industries.Indeed, King Charles III (18th

century) founded the Royal ClothFactory here, which today has beenrestored and turned into a large inn.Yet, of the almost 30 textilefactories, today only one is extant.

Hijos de Cecilio Valgañon, S.A. isrun by five brothers and producesgorgeous hand-woven lightweightand artfully colored mohairblankets and throws, as well ascashmere shawls and scarves ataffordable prices. While manyclients come specifically to buyhere, they also get orders fromRalph Lauren, Loewe and Zara.Apparently, no commercial sign isneeded; only a street level windowof the well-restored buildingfeaturing a huge antique loomwhere the sheep were once keptdoes the trick. “Anybody here willdirect you,” says one of theirnephews, Andrés Valgañon. Besidesa small charming inn called LaCuculla, Andrés runs a companythat offers what is precisely one ofthe main attractions of Ezcaray:nature sports. Apart from rentingbicycles, he organizes biking,hiking, climbing, skiing and otherexcursions in the area, on request.“The Vía Verde is definitely theeasiest,” he says reassuringly.With all this activity going on, itcomes as no surprise that food is also

a prominent player, and Ezcaray alsohas the emblematic restaurantEchaurren as its ambassador. Manypeople, especially from the BasqueCountry, come over just to enjoypintxos in the many cafés andrestaurants in the Plaza del Quioscoand Plaza de la Verdura. Key toregional gastronomy, and againclosely linked to its mountainouslocation, are both game andmushrooms. Luis Angel Sotanas, amember of the local huntingassociation, explains that whilehunting is strictly controlled by theMinistry of Environmental Affairs,game is abundant, which includesfowl like woodcock, wood pigeonand wild mallard, but moreimportantly wild boar, deer androebuck. Most is for local anddomestic use. Besides wonderfuldishes, game is used to make chorizo(a type of red sausage made withpimentón, a type of paprika fromSpain) or cecina (air-dried pieces ofbeef, served in very thin slices). Andthen there are mushrooms! Up to418 different varieties–of course notall are edible and some even

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The almazuela is a manual skill verysimilar to patchwork, but as Blancaemphasizes, its patterns are alwaysrectilinear. This craft, born out of theneed to reuse the best pieces of old,worn-out clothes, is a luxury today.Blanca’s almazuelas are made ofelegant fabrics and come inbeautiful, often intricate, patterns inthe form of bedcovers, wallhangings, handbags, etc. and canalso be made to order.

Towards thePeña de TorcuatoWhile up to now our Greenway hasbeen “a piece of cake”, from now onwe will notice how it starts slopingslightly towards the foothills of theSierra de la Demanda. Although itwill require some extra muscle work,

it is well worth it to abandon ourroute and visit the little villagesnearby, like Santurde and Santurdejo,but especially Ojacastro, which isreached descending from its formerstation (now a retirement home fornuns) and crossing a stone bridgeover the Oja. Besides a small, 13th-century hermitage, a beautiful churchand a square, what stands out here isthe well-preserved traditionalmountain architecture. Right next tothe church we will find a small glassworkshop called Fungiola run byGabriela Lamas. She not only makescolorful objects, but also jewelry, allmade of glass. Her clients are mostlyfrom nearby Ezcaray, but since sheput up a small sign at the edge of theVía Verde, she has noticed a markedincrease in visitors.Ezcaray is the last stop on our ride

along the Oja River. But first we willenjoy what certainly is the prettieststretch of this Greenway. With thebackground of the Peña de Torcuato,a protruding cliff that is the hallmarkof this area, festooned with ferns andbright purple thistles, our path nowtakes us in and out of railwaytrenches carved out from thesurrounding forest. We will end upat Ezcaray’s perfectly-restoredrailway station, now a very popularrestaurant that receives not only agreat number of bikers, especially insummer, but also skiers from thenearby Valdezcaray ski station. Nowwe just cross another pretty stonebridge over the Oja River, andEzcaray is ours.This small town, full of balconiesoverflowing with brightly-coloredgeraniums and pastel hydrangeas,

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Nuestra ruta terminará en laperfectamente restaurada estación detren de Ezcaray, en la actualidad unrestaurante muy concurrido que recibeno solo a un considerable número deciclistas, especialmente en verano, sinotambién de esquiadores procedentes dela cercana estación de esquí deValdezcaray. Cruzamos otro hermosopuente de piedra sobre el río Oja, yEzcaray ya es nuestro. El nombre de estapequeña población, repleta de balconesde los que cuelgan geranios de coloresvivos y hortensias de delicados tonospastel, se debe a la mencionada peña deSan Torcuato (Aitz-Garai, o peña alta envasco). La influencia vasca viene deantiguo, de la época en que en el casiaislado valle del río Oja se siguióhablando esta lengua, como loatestiguan los numerosos topónimosvascos. Más recientemente, durante laépoca de la industrialización de Bilbao,los doctores mandabansistemáticamente a los pacientes conproblemas respiratorios a recuperarsecon el aire de montaña limpio y seco deEzcaray. Desde entonces muchos se hanconstruido aquí una segunda casa y poreso es en la actualidad un prósperodestino turístico y una zona residencial.

Como resultado de su emplazamientonatural a los pies de la sierra de laDemanda, Ezcaray fue importante en elpasado por su hierro e incluso por suspequeños yacimientos de oro, así comopor su madera; sin embargo, fueron susindustrias textil y lanera las que hicieronmundialmente famosa a esta localidad.De hecho, el rey Carlos III (siglo XVIII)fundó aquí la Real Fábrica de Paños, enla actualidad restaurada y convertida enun enorme hotel. Sin embargo, de lascasi treinta fábricas textiles, hoy en díasolo una de ellas se mantiene. Laempresa Hijos de Cecilio Valgañón, S.A.está dirigida por cinco hermanos yproduce unas mantas y unos echarpesde mohair magníficos, tejidos a mano,ligeros y teñidos con mucha habilidad,además de chales y bufandas decachemira a precios asequibles. Aunquemuchos clientes vienen expresamente acomprar aquí, también reciben pedidosde Ralph Lauren, Loewe o Zara.Aparentemente, no necesitan ningúncartel comercial, solo un escaparate a lacalle en el bien restaurado edificio querepresenta un enorme telar antiguodonde en otros tiempos se guardabanovejas. “Cualquiera aquí te indicará elcamino”, nos comenta uno de sus

sobrinos, Andrés Valgañón. Además dela pequeña y encantadora posadallamada La Cuculla, Andrés dirige unaempresa que ofrece lo que constituyeexactamente uno de los principalesatractivos de Ezcaray: los deportesnaturales. Aparte de alquilar bicicletas,Andrés organiza actividades comociclismo, senderismo, montañismoy excursiones de otro tipo por la zona,previa petición. “La Vía Verde es sinduda la más fácil”, comenta convencido.Con todas estas actividades, no resultasorprendente que la comida tengatambién un destacado papelprotagonista y cuenta con elemblemático restaurante Echaurrencomo embajador. Mucha gente,especialmente del País Vasco, viene adegustar los pinchos a los numerososcafés y restaurantes de la plaza delQuiosco y la plaza de la Verdura. La cazay las setas, productos ligados una vezmás a su situación montañosa, sonfundamentales en la gastronomíaregional. Luis Ángel Sotanas, miembrode la asociación local de caza, explicaque aunque la caza está estrictamentecontrolada por el ministerio de MedioAmbiente, sus productos abundanaquí: aves como becadas, palomas

de La Rioja que estuvo a puntode desaparecer y se ha recuperadogracias a los esfuerzos de lasadministraciones locales y regionales.Blanca asistió a su primer curso hacequince años y quedó tan fascinada quedesde entonces no solo ha abierto unatienda, sino que imparte tambiéncursos en La Rioja.La almazuela es una técnica manualmuy similar al patchwork, pero comoBlanca se encarga de subrayar, losdibujos son siempre rectilíneos. Estostrabajos a mano, nacidos de lanecesidad de aprovechar los mejorestrozos de las prendas de vestirdesgastadas, son hoy en día un lujo.Las almazuelas de Blanca,confeccionadas con telas elegantesy de preciosos dibujos, a menudointrincados, pueden adoptar la formade colchas, cortinas, bolsos, etc. y sepueden hacer también de encargo.

En direccióna la peñade San TorcuatoAunque hasta ahora nuestra Vía Verdeha sido pan comido, a partir de estemomento comenzaremos a notar que seva empinando suavemente hacia lasestribaciones de la sierra de la Demanda.Aunque exija algún trabajo muscularextra, merece la pena abandonar nuestraruta para visitar los pueblos pequeñosde los alrededores, como Santurde ySanturdejo, pero en especial Ojacastro,al que se llega descendiendo desde laantigua estación, actualmente asilo dereligiosas, y cruzando un puente depiedra sobre el río Oja. Además de unaermita del siglo XIII, una hermosaiglesia y una plaza, lo que más destacaen este lugar es su tradicional y bienpreservada arquitectura de montaña.

Justo al lado de la iglesia, encontramosun pequeño taller de vidrio, regentadopor Gabriela Lamas. Gabrielaconfecciona no solo objetos de vivoscolores, sino también joyas de unasorprendente delicadeza, fabricadasenteramente en cristal. La mayoría desus clientes proceden de la cercanalocalidad de Ezcaray, pero desde que hapuesto un pequeño letrero en la VíaVerde, ha notado un notable aumentode visitantes a su tienda. Y es haciaEzcaray adonde nos dirigimos comoúltima parada en nuestra ruta a lo largodel río Oja. Pero antes, disfrutaremosdel sin duda más hermoso tramo de estaVía Verde. Con la peña de San Torcuatocomo telón de fondo, un prominentepeñasco, sello distintivo de esta región,adornado de helechos y cardos de unintenso color púrpura, nuestro caminonos adentra por momentos en las víasdel tren excavadas en el cercano bosque.

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borrows its name from theaforementioned Peña de Torcuato(Aitz-Garai or tall cliff in Basque).The Basque influence is longstanding from when the languagewas spoken in the fairly isolatedvalley of the Oja River. This isclearly shown in the many Basquetoponyms. More recently, duringthe industrialization of Bilbao,doctors consistently sent overpatients with respiratory problemsto recover in Ezcaray’s clean and drymountain air. Since then many havebuilt a second home here, andtoday it is a thriving touristdestination and residential area. Asfollows from its natural setting atthe foot of the Sierra de laDemanda, historically Ezcaray wasimportant for its iron, its minorgold mines and its timber, but whatmade it internationally famous wereits wool and fabric industries.Indeed, King Charles III (18th

century) founded the Royal ClothFactory here, which today has beenrestored and turned into a large inn.Yet, of the almost 30 textilefactories, today only one is extant.

Hijos de Cecilio Valgañon, S.A. isrun by five brothers and producesgorgeous hand-woven lightweightand artfully colored mohairblankets and throws, as well ascashmere shawls and scarves ataffordable prices. While manyclients come specifically to buyhere, they also get orders fromRalph Lauren, Loewe and Zara.Apparently, no commercial sign isneeded; only a street level windowof the well-restored buildingfeaturing a huge antique loomwhere the sheep were once keptdoes the trick. “Anybody here willdirect you,” says one of theirnephews, Andrés Valgañon. Besidesa small charming inn called LaCuculla, Andrés runs a companythat offers what is precisely one ofthe main attractions of Ezcaray:nature sports. Apart from rentingbicycles, he organizes biking,hiking, climbing, skiing and otherexcursions in the area, on request.“The Vía Verde is definitely theeasiest,” he says reassuringly.With all this activity going on, itcomes as no surprise that food is also

a prominent player, and Ezcaray alsohas the emblematic restaurantEchaurren as its ambassador. Manypeople, especially from the BasqueCountry, come over just to enjoypintxos in the many cafés andrestaurants in the Plaza del Quioscoand Plaza de la Verdura. Key toregional gastronomy, and againclosely linked to its mountainouslocation, are both game andmushrooms. Luis Angel Sotanas, amember of the local huntingassociation, explains that whilehunting is strictly controlled by theMinistry of Environmental Affairs,game is abundant, which includesfowl like woodcock, wood pigeonand wild mallard, but moreimportantly wild boar, deer androebuck. Most is for local anddomestic use. Besides wonderfuldishes, game is used to make chorizo(a type of red sausage made withpimentón, a type of paprika fromSpain) or cecina (air-dried pieces ofbeef, served in very thin slices). Andthen there are mushrooms! Up to418 different varieties–of course notall are edible and some even

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The almazuela is a manual skill verysimilar to patchwork, but as Blancaemphasizes, its patterns are alwaysrectilinear. This craft, born out of theneed to reuse the best pieces of old,worn-out clothes, is a luxury today.Blanca’s almazuelas are made ofelegant fabrics and come inbeautiful, often intricate, patterns inthe form of bedcovers, wallhangings, handbags, etc. and canalso be made to order.

Towards thePeña de TorcuatoWhile up to now our Greenway hasbeen “a piece of cake”, from now onwe will notice how it starts slopingslightly towards the foothills of theSierra de la Demanda. Although itwill require some extra muscle work,

it is well worth it to abandon ourroute and visit the little villagesnearby, like Santurde and Santurdejo,but especially Ojacastro, which isreached descending from its formerstation (now a retirement home fornuns) and crossing a stone bridgeover the Oja. Besides a small, 13th-century hermitage, a beautiful churchand a square, what stands out here isthe well-preserved traditionalmountain architecture. Right next tothe church we will find a small glassworkshop called Fungiola run byGabriela Lamas. She not only makescolorful objects, but also jewelry, allmade of glass. Her clients are mostlyfrom nearby Ezcaray, but since sheput up a small sign at the edge of theVía Verde, she has noticed a markedincrease in visitors.Ezcaray is the last stop on our ride

along the Oja River. But first we willenjoy what certainly is the prettieststretch of this Greenway. With thebackground of the Peña de Torcuato,a protruding cliff that is the hallmarkof this area, festooned with ferns andbright purple thistles, our path nowtakes us in and out of railwaytrenches carved out from thesurrounding forest. We will end upat Ezcaray’s perfectly-restoredrailway station, now a very popularrestaurant that receives not only agreat number of bikers, especially insummer, but also skiers from thenearby Valdezcaray ski station. Nowwe just cross another pretty stonebridge over the Oja River, andEzcaray is ours.This small town, full of balconiesoverflowing with brightly-coloredgeraniums and pastel hydrangeas,

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text-related notes written in aromance language from whichtoday’s Spanish directly derives, buthe also wrote some of his owncomments in Basque.A minibus will take us back to Yuso,built in the 11th century, but alsorebuilt and added upon several times.It has an impressive cloister, beautifulwall and ceiling paintings and one ofthe most important monastic librariesin Spain, zealously guarded by theworldly and garrulous Father Ortega,a medievalist, writer and bibliophilehimself. But what perhaps mostinterests visitors are the perfectly-kept, huge, leather-bound cantorales(chant books), some of which weigh20 kg (44 lbs) and measure one m(3.28 ft) high. The few remainingmonks are indeed keeping with thetimes and, as Father Ortega explains,have ceded the original Abad’sresidence to the regional government.Today it is a hotel and restaurant.

Binoculars in handAfter visiting San Millán de la Cogollaand still imbued with a sense ofspirituality and wonder, we will gosouthwest and follow a winding roadsqueezed in between the steep rockywalls of the Sierra de la Demanda and

the Najerilla River. On our way, weshould make a point not miss thevillage of Anguiano with its threebeautiful bridges. It is not onlyfamous for its previously mentionedcaparrones, but moreso for themagnificent spectacle of theircolorfully-dressed stilt dancers whogive a special performance on July22nd every year. Nearby is themountainous Monastery of Valvanera.It was built in the 11th century and itsfaçade bears a Romanesque, stone-carved medallion of the Virgin ofValvanera, La Rioja’s patron saint. Wenow continue our route deeper intothe Sierra along the Embalse deMansilla, a spectacular reservoir nearthe Najerilla River. After a while onefalls silent, awestruck by the sheermajesty of these slate formations,rendered even more dramatic by giantGriffon vultures slowly circling abovethem.In the meantime, we will haveinadvertently crossed into theprovince of Burgos and soon willapproach the small village ofMonterrubio de la Demanda where,at present, abandoned copper andsilver mines are under restoration.This is where the mining railwayended and where our next Greenwaybegins. The time has come to

prepare our binoculars, as over thenext 55 km (34 mi), nature will beour main companion. At times, thesilence will suddenly be broken bythe arrhythmic yet harmonious andcheerful ding-dong of cowbells.Although most of the mountainvillages on our route are equippedwith the latest communicationstechnology, occasional signs warningof crossing cattle give an idea of howrural they still are. It’s better to heedthose warnings and be able to brakein time to give way to leisurelygrazing solitary cattle or whole herdsof sheep and goats, on and alongsideboth the road and our Greenway.This also means that, as Nacho fromValencia points out, from time totime you will have to be ready toavoid the visible proof of theirpassage. Since his father, AlbertoMambrillo, took him on St. James’Way when he was only 12, severaltimes a year they travel the VíasVerdes together, especially the VíaVerde de Ojos Negros which theyreach by train from Valencia. Theydecided to do the present Greenwayafter watching the correspondingdocumentary produced by theSpanish Railway Foundation ontelevision.

among a number of places wellworth visiting, a mandatory stop isSan Millán de la Cogolla.Reaching San Millán, among gentleslopes and open forests, everythingpoints us to our final destination:The Yosu (lower) and Suso (upper)Monasteries, declared a WorldHeritage Site in 1997. Suso, whichlies on the outskirts of today’s villageand offers spectacular views, wasbuilt around the original cave thatwas home to the hermit San Millánand dates from the 7th century. Itboasts a number of caves, an 11th-century gallery of splendidhorseshoe-shaped Mozarabic arches,and a 16th-century necropolis. Butfirst and foremost, it is here wherethe first written testimony of boththe Spanish and the Basquelanguages originate. The so-calledGlosas Emilianenses are a number ofannotations that an anonymous 11th

century copyist made in the marginof a Latin text. Not only were these

deadly–were exhibited last seasonduring the 15th edition of the yearlymycology weekend (2nd weekend inNovember) which attracts over athousand people from all over thecountry, but especially Basques andCatalans from regions with a longtradition. During this period, all barsand restaurants prepare mushroom-based dishes and pintxos.“Mushrooms have unlimitedpossibilities,” says Carmelo Ubeda, alocal amateur mycologist andorganizer of the event, and adds thatmushrooms are no longer anaccompaniment, but have gained fullgastronomic recognition on theirown merits. Both in Ezcaray and insurrounding villages, besides anarray of other attractions like theyearly jazz festival or classicmarches, everybody can join in thesuccession of traditional meals,normally coinciding with thecelebration of the respective patronsaints. Huge cauldrons produce

countless portions of traditionaldishes like patatas a la riojana(potatoes with chorizo), patatasa la Demanda (potatoes with greenpeppers and onions) or habas deSan Antón broad beans with hamand chorizo.

The birthplace of theSpanish languageTo reach our next Greenway, weleave the eastern flank of themajestic Sierra de La Demanda,surround its foothills and then braveits western face. What catches ourattention on the way are theplantations of pimientos choriceros(the oblong red pepper that, amongother uses, produces pimentón, thedried, red pepper powder that is anindispensable ingredient in theubiquitous chorizo), but moreimportantly the typical pimientosriojanos (see box on page 67). And

“It is a deeply-rooted product,” says Roberto da Silva, the president of theAssociation of Morcilla de Burgos Manufacturers. Strict directions as to howmorcilla (blood sausage) should be made were laid down in a royal decree asearly as the 16th century. If by now it does not yet have a quality designation oforigin, it is, as Da Silva explains, because although they are very similar, officiallythere are three different procedures depending on the specific zones in Burgoswhere they are made. The main ingredients in all of them are onions (preferablythe autochthonous cebolla horcal), first quality rice from Valencia, lard, pig’s bloodand spices. Where they differ is in proportions, the use of raw or parboiled rice,the type of lard, casings and of course spices that may range from pepper,pimentón (a type of paprika from Spain) and oregano to cumin, aniseed,cinnamon, cloves or caraway. Since the Spanish gastronomy boom, severalmembers of the association are now exporting not only to Europe, but also toKorea and Japan. Although used in many recipes, even in nouvelle cuisine, themost prevalent way to savor morcilla is cut in slices and then crisply fried. Anaccompanying glass of Ribera del Duero can do no harm.

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text-related notes written in aromance language from whichtoday’s Spanish directly derives, buthe also wrote some of his owncomments in Basque.A minibus will take us back to Yuso,built in the 11th century, but alsorebuilt and added upon several times.It has an impressive cloister, beautifulwall and ceiling paintings and one ofthe most important monastic librariesin Spain, zealously guarded by theworldly and garrulous Father Ortega,a medievalist, writer and bibliophilehimself. But what perhaps mostinterests visitors are the perfectly-kept, huge, leather-bound cantorales(chant books), some of which weigh20 kg (44 lbs) and measure one m(3.28 ft) high. The few remainingmonks are indeed keeping with thetimes and, as Father Ortega explains,have ceded the original Abad’sresidence to the regional government.Today it is a hotel and restaurant.

Binoculars in handAfter visiting San Millán de la Cogollaand still imbued with a sense ofspirituality and wonder, we will gosouthwest and follow a winding roadsqueezed in between the steep rockywalls of the Sierra de la Demanda and

the Najerilla River. On our way, weshould make a point not miss thevillage of Anguiano with its threebeautiful bridges. It is not onlyfamous for its previously mentionedcaparrones, but moreso for themagnificent spectacle of theircolorfully-dressed stilt dancers whogive a special performance on July22nd every year. Nearby is themountainous Monastery of Valvanera.It was built in the 11th century and itsfaçade bears a Romanesque, stone-carved medallion of the Virgin ofValvanera, La Rioja’s patron saint. Wenow continue our route deeper intothe Sierra along the Embalse deMansilla, a spectacular reservoir nearthe Najerilla River. After a while onefalls silent, awestruck by the sheermajesty of these slate formations,rendered even more dramatic by giantGriffon vultures slowly circling abovethem.In the meantime, we will haveinadvertently crossed into theprovince of Burgos and soon willapproach the small village ofMonterrubio de la Demanda where,at present, abandoned copper andsilver mines are under restoration.This is where the mining railwayended and where our next Greenwaybegins. The time has come to

prepare our binoculars, as over thenext 55 km (34 mi), nature will beour main companion. At times, thesilence will suddenly be broken bythe arrhythmic yet harmonious andcheerful ding-dong of cowbells.Although most of the mountainvillages on our route are equippedwith the latest communicationstechnology, occasional signs warningof crossing cattle give an idea of howrural they still are. It’s better to heedthose warnings and be able to brakein time to give way to leisurelygrazing solitary cattle or whole herdsof sheep and goats, on and alongsideboth the road and our Greenway.This also means that, as Nacho fromValencia points out, from time totime you will have to be ready toavoid the visible proof of theirpassage. Since his father, AlbertoMambrillo, took him on St. James’Way when he was only 12, severaltimes a year they travel the VíasVerdes together, especially the VíaVerde de Ojos Negros which theyreach by train from Valencia. Theydecided to do the present Greenwayafter watching the correspondingdocumentary produced by theSpanish Railway Foundation ontelevision.

among a number of places wellworth visiting, a mandatory stop isSan Millán de la Cogolla.Reaching San Millán, among gentleslopes and open forests, everythingpoints us to our final destination:The Yosu (lower) and Suso (upper)Monasteries, declared a WorldHeritage Site in 1997. Suso, whichlies on the outskirts of today’s villageand offers spectacular views, wasbuilt around the original cave thatwas home to the hermit San Millánand dates from the 7th century. Itboasts a number of caves, an 11th-century gallery of splendidhorseshoe-shaped Mozarabic arches,and a 16th-century necropolis. Butfirst and foremost, it is here wherethe first written testimony of boththe Spanish and the Basquelanguages originate. The so-calledGlosas Emilianenses are a number ofannotations that an anonymous 11th

century copyist made in the marginof a Latin text. Not only were these

deadly–were exhibited last seasonduring the 15th edition of the yearlymycology weekend (2nd weekend inNovember) which attracts over athousand people from all over thecountry, but especially Basques andCatalans from regions with a longtradition. During this period, all barsand restaurants prepare mushroom-based dishes and pintxos.“Mushrooms have unlimitedpossibilities,” says Carmelo Ubeda, alocal amateur mycologist andorganizer of the event, and adds thatmushrooms are no longer anaccompaniment, but have gained fullgastronomic recognition on theirown merits. Both in Ezcaray and insurrounding villages, besides anarray of other attractions like theyearly jazz festival or classicmarches, everybody can join in thesuccession of traditional meals,normally coinciding with thecelebration of the respective patronsaints. Huge cauldrons produce

countless portions of traditionaldishes like patatas a la riojana(potatoes with chorizo), patatasa la Demanda (potatoes with greenpeppers and onions) or habas deSan Antón broad beans with hamand chorizo.

The birthplace of theSpanish languageTo reach our next Greenway, weleave the eastern flank of themajestic Sierra de La Demanda,surround its foothills and then braveits western face. What catches ourattention on the way are theplantations of pimientos choriceros(the oblong red pepper that, amongother uses, produces pimentón, thedried, red pepper powder that is anindispensable ingredient in theubiquitous chorizo), but moreimportantly the typical pimientosriojanos (see box on page 67). And

“It is a deeply-rooted product,” says Roberto da Silva, the president of theAssociation of Morcilla de Burgos Manufacturers. Strict directions as to howmorcilla (blood sausage) should be made were laid down in a royal decree asearly as the 16th century. If by now it does not yet have a quality designation oforigin, it is, as Da Silva explains, because although they are very similar, officiallythere are three different procedures depending on the specific zones in Burgoswhere they are made. The main ingredients in all of them are onions (preferablythe autochthonous cebolla horcal), first quality rice from Valencia, lard, pig’s bloodand spices. Where they differ is in proportions, the use of raw or parboiled rice,the type of lard, casings and of course spices that may range from pepper,pimentón (a type of paprika from Spain) and oregano to cumin, aniseed,cinnamon, cloves or caraway. Since the Spanish gastronomy boom, severalmembers of the association are now exporting not only to Europe, but also toKorea and Japan. Although used in many recipes, even in nouvelle cuisine, themost prevalent way to savor morcilla is cut in slices and then crisply fried. Anaccompanying glass of Ribera del Duero can do no harm.

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of the season, we may collect 100 kg(220 lbs) of boletes in one day,” saysOrodeta.And finally, a most relevant legacy ofBarbadillo de los Herreros(blacksmiths) is its well-preservedconic foundry, all built in stone. Thispeculiar edifice is readily visible froma vantage point on the Vía Verdereached via a nicely-restored tunnel.This is the place where iron ore oncewas actually processed and, in thenearby smithy, made into tools,gridirons and large ingots to betransported to Bilbao.We will now continue our windingGreenway to Riocavado de la Sierra.The village is reached by descendinga side road that first leads us to aquiet and shady recreational areawith a natural pool in the PedrosoRiver. It is flanked by a well-keptlawn with benches and barbecues forpublic use. From here a narrow pathleads us into the forest to therestored mouth of an iron mine fromwhere the ore was transported in

small hopper cars (an original one isstill on display) across the river andup the mountain along a skid (thelocals still use the English word) tobe dumped into the railway wagonswaiting above. Entering the villagewe are immediately struck by boththe towering Romanesque church ofSanta Coloma and the nearby stumpof an elm tree. There is sorrow intheir voices when the locals explainthat their beloved elm would havebeen a thousand years old, but in the1980s it fell victim to graphiosis, orelm disease, a pandemic that felledelms throughout Europe. They pointyou to a discolored picture of a leafyelm in the local bar where we canalso enjoy the daily menu. “Not solong ago you couldn’t reach thisplace by bike, but now we get manycyclists,” says the owner, MariaDolores.In line with his colleague’s train ofthought, the mayor Martin Hoyuelosis acutely aware that in order toboost tourism it is important to

promote a traditional image. Adecree has been issued that, inexchange for a tax relief, all newly-built homes must at least havefaçades made out of stone, and heenthusiastically encouragesrestoration of the original, nowabandoned houses. Hoyuelos is arelatively young retiree who wasborn here and now wants to giveback. “All my ancestors are fromRiocavado,” he says proudly. He isalso the president of the newlyconstituted Association of the VíaVerde de la Demanda. “Our primarypurpose is maintaining theGreenway in optimal conditions,” hesays. To that end, they not only keepit clean of weeds and debris and lookafter the rest areas, but they are alsorecovering the multiple naturalsprings that used to be kept up byshepherds. This is also useful for thegame and mushroom hunters whoinvade the area year after year, whilethe latter have notably increasedsince the Vía Verde was inaugurated.

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The bliss of the VíaVerdeJust like on the other side of theSierra de la Demanda, for centuriesthe main activity in these remotemountain villages had beentranshumant sheepherding, meaningthat in winter, herds were takenalong official trails (cañadas reales) asfar as Extremadura in southwesternSpain. Although its heydays by thenwere largely over, it was the CivilWar which meant the demise of largescale transhumancy, even thoughlocal sheepherding continued.However, several of the villagesalong our route, like Barbadillo delos Herreros or Riocavado de laSierra, also became the center of arather short-lived revival of miningactivity. The railroad track that weare following now was laid at theend of the 19th century by the BritishSierra Company Ltd. with the solepurpose of transporting the covetediron ore to the smelters in Bilbao. “Itdidn’t last long,” says Vicente Merinowith a hint of irony. He is adescendant of one of the influentialsheep-owning families and has greatinterest in the area’s history. “Theiron ore here was of excellent quality,but had a lot of sulphur and otherresidues which eventually made itsextraction too costly,” he explains.Merino is now retired and spendsmore time with his wife Jacqueline,in charge of Barbadillo’s culturalaffairs, at their beautifully restoredcasona, the large centuries-old familyhouse. For his daily walks into theforest he regularly takes the VíaVerde. “It makes walking trulycomfortable,” he says.Barbadillo still has quite a few of

these casonas, although not manyhave been restored as yet. The mostimportant is the 18th-century Casadel Mayorazgo, now a local innwhich also houses an intacttraditional kitchen that tourists canvisit. Throughout the area, hopes torecover some of its former wealthundoubtedly lie in tourism. “The VíaVerde has meant a significantchange, it has blown new life intothe village,” says its mayor, ÁngelOrodeta. They have experienced animportant new influx of tourists notonly in summer and duringweekends, but also in October andNovember when all of the Sierra dela Demanda is ablaze with brightautumn colors and mushrooms arein season. “Now they arrive in entirecoaches,” says Ordetaenthusiastically. “They are droppedoff at the Puerto del Manquillo,

midway through the Vía Verde, andare picked up here.”Those who do not come by bike, buttraditionally are a relevant source ofincome in this entire area, arehunters. Shoots for non-locals areassigned in public auction and gameis abundant. Of the pieces yielded,about a third remains in the village,where the sale of homemade wildboar, deer and roebuck chorizo alsocontributes to the domesticeconomy. As does honey. In season,there may be up to 1,300 beehives,many brought in from as far asValencia. The area has a wealth ofwildflowers, but more important isthe widespread presence of oaktrees. Its acorns secrete a sugarysubstance that specifically attractsbees and gives the honey a darkercolor and a fuller taste. Mushroomsof course are a token. “At the height

The pimiento riojano is a large, sweet, red pepper that holds the qualitydesignation PGI (Protected Geographic Indication). This fleshy red pepper has avery thin skin, is triangular and pointed, measures about 12 cm (30.5 in) andweighs up to 1 lb (0.45 kg). This makes it especially suitable for roasting. Overhalf of the area’s total production (some 380,000 kg (837,748 lbs) of certifiedproduction in 2006) is canned, which is still predominantly a traditional process.Carlos Bricio, president of the IGP’s Regulatory Council, mayor of Tricio and agrower and canner himself, proudly shows his old oven where the peppers areroasted and then hand peeled, transferred to jars and sterilized. The result is atotally natural product and his brand, San Bartolomé (named after Tricio’s patronsaint), featured several times among Spain’s best products in Rafael GarciaSantos’ yearly guide called Lo mejor de la gastronomía (a gastronomic reviewer,who organized an international gastronomy congress in Spain).

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of the season, we may collect 100 kg(220 lbs) of boletes in one day,” saysOrodeta.And finally, a most relevant legacy ofBarbadillo de los Herreros(blacksmiths) is its well-preservedconic foundry, all built in stone. Thispeculiar edifice is readily visible froma vantage point on the Vía Verdereached via a nicely-restored tunnel.This is the place where iron ore oncewas actually processed and, in thenearby smithy, made into tools,gridirons and large ingots to betransported to Bilbao.We will now continue our windingGreenway to Riocavado de la Sierra.The village is reached by descendinga side road that first leads us to aquiet and shady recreational areawith a natural pool in the PedrosoRiver. It is flanked by a well-keptlawn with benches and barbecues forpublic use. From here a narrow pathleads us into the forest to therestored mouth of an iron mine fromwhere the ore was transported in

small hopper cars (an original one isstill on display) across the river andup the mountain along a skid (thelocals still use the English word) tobe dumped into the railway wagonswaiting above. Entering the villagewe are immediately struck by boththe towering Romanesque church ofSanta Coloma and the nearby stumpof an elm tree. There is sorrow intheir voices when the locals explainthat their beloved elm would havebeen a thousand years old, but in the1980s it fell victim to graphiosis, orelm disease, a pandemic that felledelms throughout Europe. They pointyou to a discolored picture of a leafyelm in the local bar where we canalso enjoy the daily menu. “Not solong ago you couldn’t reach thisplace by bike, but now we get manycyclists,” says the owner, MariaDolores.In line with his colleague’s train ofthought, the mayor Martin Hoyuelosis acutely aware that in order toboost tourism it is important to

promote a traditional image. Adecree has been issued that, inexchange for a tax relief, all newly-built homes must at least havefaçades made out of stone, and heenthusiastically encouragesrestoration of the original, nowabandoned houses. Hoyuelos is arelatively young retiree who wasborn here and now wants to giveback. “All my ancestors are fromRiocavado,” he says proudly. He isalso the president of the newlyconstituted Association of the VíaVerde de la Demanda. “Our primarypurpose is maintaining theGreenway in optimal conditions,” hesays. To that end, they not only keepit clean of weeds and debris and lookafter the rest areas, but they are alsorecovering the multiple naturalsprings that used to be kept up byshepherds. This is also useful for thegame and mushroom hunters whoinvade the area year after year, whilethe latter have notably increasedsince the Vía Verde was inaugurated.

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The bliss of the VíaVerdeJust like on the other side of theSierra de la Demanda, for centuriesthe main activity in these remotemountain villages had beentranshumant sheepherding, meaningthat in winter, herds were takenalong official trails (cañadas reales) asfar as Extremadura in southwesternSpain. Although its heydays by thenwere largely over, it was the CivilWar which meant the demise of largescale transhumancy, even thoughlocal sheepherding continued.However, several of the villagesalong our route, like Barbadillo delos Herreros or Riocavado de laSierra, also became the center of arather short-lived revival of miningactivity. The railroad track that weare following now was laid at theend of the 19th century by the BritishSierra Company Ltd. with the solepurpose of transporting the covetediron ore to the smelters in Bilbao. “Itdidn’t last long,” says Vicente Merinowith a hint of irony. He is adescendant of one of the influentialsheep-owning families and has greatinterest in the area’s history. “Theiron ore here was of excellent quality,but had a lot of sulphur and otherresidues which eventually made itsextraction too costly,” he explains.Merino is now retired and spendsmore time with his wife Jacqueline,in charge of Barbadillo’s culturalaffairs, at their beautifully restoredcasona, the large centuries-old familyhouse. For his daily walks into theforest he regularly takes the VíaVerde. “It makes walking trulycomfortable,” he says.Barbadillo still has quite a few of

these casonas, although not manyhave been restored as yet. The mostimportant is the 18th-century Casadel Mayorazgo, now a local innwhich also houses an intacttraditional kitchen that tourists canvisit. Throughout the area, hopes torecover some of its former wealthundoubtedly lie in tourism. “The VíaVerde has meant a significantchange, it has blown new life intothe village,” says its mayor, ÁngelOrodeta. They have experienced animportant new influx of tourists notonly in summer and duringweekends, but also in October andNovember when all of the Sierra dela Demanda is ablaze with brightautumn colors and mushrooms arein season. “Now they arrive in entirecoaches,” says Ordetaenthusiastically. “They are droppedoff at the Puerto del Manquillo,

midway through the Vía Verde, andare picked up here.”Those who do not come by bike, buttraditionally are a relevant source ofincome in this entire area, arehunters. Shoots for non-locals areassigned in public auction and gameis abundant. Of the pieces yielded,about a third remains in the village,where the sale of homemade wildboar, deer and roebuck chorizo alsocontributes to the domesticeconomy. As does honey. In season,there may be up to 1,300 beehives,many brought in from as far asValencia. The area has a wealth ofwildflowers, but more important isthe widespread presence of oaktrees. Its acorns secrete a sugarysubstance that specifically attractsbees and gives the honey a darkercolor and a fuller taste. Mushroomsof course are a token. “At the height

The pimiento riojano is a large, sweet, red pepper that holds the qualitydesignation PGI (Protected Geographic Indication). This fleshy red pepper has avery thin skin, is triangular and pointed, measures about 12 cm (30.5 in) andweighs up to 1 lb (0.45 kg). This makes it especially suitable for roasting. Overhalf of the area’s total production (some 380,000 kg (837,748 lbs) of certifiedproduction in 2006) is canned, which is still predominantly a traditional process.Carlos Bricio, president of the IGP’s Regulatory Council, mayor of Tricio and agrower and canner himself, proudly shows his old oven where the peppers areroasted and then hand peeled, transferred to jars and sterilized. The result is atotally natural product and his brand, San Bartolomé (named after Tricio’s patronsaint), featured several times among Spain’s best products in Rafael GarciaSantos’ yearly guide called Lo mejor de la gastronomía (a gastronomic reviewer,who organized an international gastronomy congress in Spain).

R E D I S F O R P E P P E R

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pueblos de la sierra de la Demandahasta Burgos y desde allí hasta Bilbao.En muchos lugares, la vía de tren fueliteralmente excavada a través debosques y montañas. Y fue enAtapuerca donde se produjo un golpede suerte. Una trinchera de 20 m /66 ft de altura reveló lo que seconvertiría en el yacimientopaleontológico más grande deEuropa, declarado Patrimonio de laHumanidad en el año 2000, que deno ser por la vía de tren, podríapermanecer todavía sin descubrir.Pero no pensemos en lo quepodríamos haber perdido, la vía detren había producido un cortetransversal perfecto en el terrenoestratificado, lo cual facilitaba suexploración. Sin embargo, no fuehasta la década de 1960 en que unequipo de arqueólogos se dio cuentade lo que el trazado ferroviario habíadejado al descubierto: una prueba dela evolución humana. A partir deentonces, Atapuerca ha acumulado unhistorial impresionante. No solocontiene pruebas de la presenciahumana, las prácticas de canibalismoy los ritos funerarios más antiguos deEuropa Occidental, el cráneo humanomás completo del mundo o la mayorconcentración individual de fósilesdel Preneandertal, sino que también yaún más importante, sacó a la luz losrestos de una especie humana aún sindocumentar: el Homo antecessor.Hay visitas guiadas no solo al propioyacimiento, sino también a la zona de

exposiciones y a un lugarespecialmente atractivo y pedagógicopara los jóvenes: un parque temáticoque ofrece un paseo a través de losperiodos principales de la prehistoria,desde el Paleolítico a la Edad de losMetales. Se recomienda reservar poradelantado, dado que los grupos sontransportados al yacimiento en autocardesde la oficina de venta de billetes enlas cercanías de Ibeas de Juarros.¿Le suena a algo? ¿Recuerda el platode caparrones de Anguiano preparadocon tanto primor por María Luisa?Aquí, como ya sabemos, se llamanalubias de Ibeas y en muchas de lashuertas traseras de esta localidadencontramos todavía las típicasplantas de judías colgadas. Sinembargo, en esta zona las pequeñasalubias rojas se utilizanprincipalmente para preparar la ollapodrida, que lleva además de judías,morcilla de Burgos (ver pág. 64),chorizo, oreja, manitas y costillas decerdo marinadas, tocino y algunoscocineros incluso le añaden cecina.Otro golpe de suerte: Los Claveles, unrestaurante famoso por su ollapodrida, está aquí, en Ibeas. Unpostre de queso de Burgos (típicoqueso blanco de oveja fresco), miel ynueces podría servir de colofónperfecto al viaje.

Más que unitinerario deportivoNo hay duda de que las Vías Verdes

pastores. Esto también resulta útil paralos cazadores y los recolectores desetas que todos los años invaden lazona; especialmente estos últimos hanaumentado notablemente desde que seinauguró la Vía Verde. El alcalde estáseguro de que el boom de Atapuerca(ver más abajo) contribuirá sin duda apromocionar toda la zona. Mientrastanto, en la agenda de Martín Hoyuelofigura en primer lugar la necesidadurgente de alojamientos.

El tramo finalCamino de Riocavado, atravesaremosuna idílica zona de descanso bajoolmos y hayas centenarios y arbustosrepletos de bayas de color azulado.En medio de la ruta se halla lapreciosa Fuente de Monzabaya, queofrece al sediento viajero su fresca ycristalina agua de manantial. En lascercanías se encuentran mesas ybancos, una barbacoa y una pequeñacabaña para refugiarse de lasinclemencias del tiempo. A partir deeste punto, el camino serpentea porviejos bosques, zanjas y praderas,terraplenes, cadenas de montañas,barrancos, impresionantesformaciones de pizarra y torrentes deagua. La parte central de nuestra VíaVerde nos lleva al puerto delManquillo, un paso a 1.450 m / 4.757ft que sin duda no es paraprincipiantes y en el que incluso losmás experimentados ciclistas tendránque bajarse de la bicicleta y subirandando la pronunciadísima

pendiente. El tren sorteaba este tramoa través de un túnel, pero lanaturaleza fue apoderándose poco apoco de él y ahora se encuentraanegado, lleno de maleza y en unestado de abandono tal que losfondos destinados no han sidosuficientes para restaurarlo, al menosde momento. Y, sin embargo, nuestroesfuerzo tiene ciertamente surecompensa: a nuestro alrededor seabre una espléndida vista. A partir deaquí vamos cuesta abajo por uncamino que sigue el curso del todavíajoven río Arlanzón, nacido enRiocavado, hasta alcanzar Pineda dela Sierra. Lo que más destaca en esteprecioso pueblo de montaña lleno deflores y hermosas casonas es SantaJuliana, una iglesia románica del sigloXII, construida en piedra de colorrojo oscuro que presenta un pórticoabsolutamente magnífico. Pineda estambién un punto estratégico para,como Alberto y Nacho, hacer unaparada en una posada con un nombremuy acertado, La Casona. Cuenta concómodas habitaciones, un comedortípico, una confortante comida y, porsupuesto, un espacio para guardar lasbicicletas. José Antonio Aranda, Ana ysus dos hijos de entre doce y catorceaños están bebiendo algo. Ana nosexplica que, “como nunca sabes si vasa encontrar un sitio para comer nidónde”, traen su propia comida yparan en alguna de las áreas dedescanso regularmente repartidas porla vía. Los Aranda son habituales de

las Vías Verdes españolas. “Hemoshecho unas cuantas”, dice JoséAntonio y nos explica que es unaforma estupenda de viajar con lafamilia. “Haces ejercicio, no temolestan los coches y, sencillamente,ves las cosas desde otra perspectiva”.Continuamos nuestro recorrido haciael embalse de Arlanzón, una enormepresa, rodeada de suaves pendientesque el abundantísimo brezo haconvertido en enormes alfombras decolor púrpura. Nos encontramos enlas estribaciones de la sierra de laDemanda y el paisaje, aunquesiempre hermoso, ofrece pocassorpresas a medida que desciendehacia los ondulantes campos de trigoen los alrededores de Burgos. Y ahorasiguiendo un alegre sendero,flanqueado por helechos y brezo,lleno de moras maduras, hacemosnuestra feliz entrada en Arlanzón,lugar donde finaliza nuestra VíaVerde. Sin embargo, quedan aúnmuchas más cosas fascinantes.

Tesoros ocultosen las trincherasEn realidad, aunque la Vía Verdetermina en Arlanzón, la vía de trenoriginal continuaba casi hasta laspuertas de Burgos. El objetivoprincipal de la construcción delferrocarril era transportar el mineralde hierro, transporte que hastaentonces se había hecho en carrostirados por caballos, desde los

españolas ofrecen una forma alternativade evasión temporal de las prisas ypreocupaciones de la vida moderna. Eneste artículo solo hemos echado unvistazo a dos de ellas, pero esperamosque hayan despertado lo suficiente suinterés como para animarle a seguirdescubriendo los innumerables rinconesocultos que ofrece ese variadísimo paísque es España. Julio Verdú tenía razóncuando nos comentó que quería que lasVías Verdes fueran “algo más que unitinerario deportivo”. Nos descubren,desde una perspectiva diferente, losmiles de tesoros que encierra el interiorde España. Si, como hemos visto, lasVías Verdes suponen una diferencia paralos habitantes de los puebloscolindantes, también diferencian a laspersonas que las recorren. No son soloun medio de disfrutar de la naturaleza,visitar lugares y degustar la gastronomíatradicional, sino que tambiénproporcionan la sensación de tener uncontacto mucho más directo con lo quenos rodea. Por desgracia, las Vías Verdessiguen siendo principalmente un lugarvisitado por españoles y solo unreducido grupo de turistas delextranjero las recorre. Es necesariocorrer la voz, así que esperamos que seuna a nosotros en nuestro próximo viajey que las Vías Verdes conquistentambién su corazón.

Anke van Wijck Adán es socióloga y tieneun máster en gastronomía por la BostonUniversity. Sus artículos han aparecido enel Boston Globe.

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what was to become the largestpaleontological excavation site inEurope, declared a World HeritageSite in 2000. If it hadn’t been for therailway, all this might still beundiscovered.And even though it is better not tothink about what may have beenlost, the railway trench made for aperfect cross-section of this layeredenvironment, ready to be explored.However, it was not until the 1960sthat a team of archaeologists realizedwhat the railway had laid bare: aregister of human evolution. Fromthen on, Atapuerca has garnered animpressive record. Not only does ithold evidence of the earliest humanpresence in Western Europe, theearliest signs of cannibalism andfunerary rites, the world’s mostcomplete human skull and thelargest single concentration of pre-Neanderthal remains, but moreimportantly it brought to light theremains of an as yet undocumentedhuman species, the Homo antecessor.Guided tours are available not onlyalong the actual excavation site butalso through the exhibition area andthrough what is especially attractiveand formative for youngsters: atheme park that walks us throughthe main periods of prehistory, fromthe Palaeolithic to the age of metal. Itis advised to make reservations

beforehand as groups are taken tothe actual site by coach from theticket office in nearby Ibeas deJuarros.Now does this ring a bell? Do youremember the plate of caparrones deAnguiano which Maria Luisa solovingly prepared? Well, here, as weknow, they are called Alubias de Ibeasand in many a back garden in thisvillage we will still find the typicalstrung up bean plants. But in thisarea the tiny red beans primarilymake their way into the olla podrida,a stew which, as in addition to redbeans, has morcilla de Burgos (see boxon page 64), chorizo, pig’s ears andfeet and marinated ribs of pork, freshbacon, and some chefs even addcecina. And you’ve lucked out again:Los Claveles, a restaurant famous forits olla podrida, is right here inIbeas. A dessert, queso de Burgos (thetypical fresh white ewes’ cheese),honey and walnuts could just be theright thing to conclude your trip ona high note.

More than asporting routeThere is no doubt that the SpanishGreenways offer an alternative wayto temporarily extricate ourselvesfrom the hassles and hazards ofmodern life. Here we have only had

a peek at two of them, but we trustthat your are curious enough tocontinue discovering the manyhidden corners of multifacetedSpain. Julio Verdú was right when hesaid that he wanted the Vías Verdesto be “more than a sporting route.”They expose us in a very differentway to the myriad of treasures thatSpain’s inland has in store. If, as wehave seen, the Vías Verdes make adifference to the people fromadjacent villages, they also make adifference to the people who travelthem. They are not only a means toenjoy nature, visit places and sampletraditional gastronomy, they also giveus a sense of coming closer intocontact with that which surroundsus. Unfortunately, the Greenwaysremain primarily the territory ofnationals and are visited only insmall numbers by tourists fromabroad. The word needs to get out,so we hope you that will join us onour next trip and that the Greenwayswill also conquer your heart!

Anke van Wijck Adán is a sociologistand has a Master’s degree ingastronomy from Boston University.Her articles have appeared in TheBoston Globe.

The mayor has no qualms aboutpromoting the boom in Atapuerca,which will certainly help to promotethe entire area. In the meantime,high on Hoyuelo’s agenda is theurgent need for accommodation.

The final stretchOn our way out of Riocavado, wewill pass a most idyllic rest areabelow centuries-old oak trees andbeeches and here and there a blue-berried blackthorn. In their midststands the beautiful Fuente deMonzabaya fountain, which providesthe thirsty traveler with cool, clearspring water. Nearby are tables andbenches, a barbecue and a small hutfor refuge in case of inclementweather. From now on we will bemeandering through age-old forests,trenches, and meadows, alongembankments, ridges, gullies andimpressive slate formations and overrushing streams. This central stretchof our Greenway leading up to thePuerto del Manquillo, a pass at1,450 m (4,756 ft), is certainly notfor beginners, and even inuredbikers will have to step down andwalk up the rather steep incline. Theold train would have had cleared thisstretch through a tunnel, but overtime nature took over. Now thetunnel is flooded, overgrown and in

such disrepair that available fundswere not sufficient to restore it, atleast for the time being. Yet our effortcertainly pays off: a splendid viewopens up all around us! And fromnow on we are going downhill, andour path will follow the ArlanzónRiver (which begins in Riocavado)until we reach Pineda de la Sierra.What truly stands out in this prettymountain village full of flowers andbeautiful casonas is its 12th-centuryRomanesque Church of SaintJuliana. Built in dark red stone, itfeatures a most magnificent portico.And Pineda is also a strategic pointto stop at the appropriately namedLa Casona. It is an inn withcomfortable rooms, a typical diningroom with soul-warming food, andof course a space to store bicycles.Ana and José Antonio Aranda, andtheir two sons in their early teens arejust having a drink. Ana explainsthat, “as you never know if andwhere you’ll find a place to eat,” theybring their own food and stop at oneof the regularly dispersed rest areas.The Arandas are regulars on theSpanish Greenways. “We’ve donequite a few,” says José Antonio,explaining that it is a great way totravel with the family. “You’reexercising, you’re undisturbed bycars and you just look at things froma different perspective.”

We now continue our route towardsthe Embalse de Arlanzón, a hugereservoir surrounded by slopeswhich a profusion of heather turnsinto giant purple carpets. We are atthe foothills of the Sierra de laDemanda and the landscape,although invariably pretty, offers fewsurprises as it slowly descendstowards the gently undulating wheatfields around Burgos. And now alonga festive heather and fern-lined pathwith bramble berries everywhere forthe taking, we make our joyousentrance into Arlanzón where ourGreenway comes to an end.Nonetheless, some excitement lies instore.

Treasures from thetrenchesIndeed, while the Vía Verde ends inArlanzón, the original railway trackcontinued almost to the gates ofBurgos. The primary purpose ofbuilding the railway was to transportiron ore which, up until then, hadtraveled in horse-pulled carts fromthe villages in the Sierra de laDemanda to Burgos and from thereon to Bilbao. In many places therailway track was literally carved outthrough forests and hills. And it wasin Atapuerca where luck struck. A20 m (65.6 ft) high trench unveiled

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pueblos de la sierra de la Demandahasta Burgos y desde allí hasta Bilbao.En muchos lugares, la vía de tren fueliteralmente excavada a través debosques y montañas. Y fue enAtapuerca donde se produjo un golpede suerte. Una trinchera de 20 m /66 ft de altura reveló lo que seconvertiría en el yacimientopaleontológico más grande deEuropa, declarado Patrimonio de laHumanidad en el año 2000, que deno ser por la vía de tren, podríapermanecer todavía sin descubrir.Pero no pensemos en lo quepodríamos haber perdido, la vía detren había producido un cortetransversal perfecto en el terrenoestratificado, lo cual facilitaba suexploración. Sin embargo, no fuehasta la década de 1960 en que unequipo de arqueólogos se dio cuentade lo que el trazado ferroviario habíadejado al descubierto: una prueba dela evolución humana. A partir deentonces, Atapuerca ha acumulado unhistorial impresionante. No solocontiene pruebas de la presenciahumana, las prácticas de canibalismoy los ritos funerarios más antiguos deEuropa Occidental, el cráneo humanomás completo del mundo o la mayorconcentración individual de fósilesdel Preneandertal, sino que también yaún más importante, sacó a la luz losrestos de una especie humana aún sindocumentar: el Homo antecessor.Hay visitas guiadas no solo al propioyacimiento, sino también a la zona de

exposiciones y a un lugarespecialmente atractivo y pedagógicopara los jóvenes: un parque temáticoque ofrece un paseo a través de losperiodos principales de la prehistoria,desde el Paleolítico a la Edad de losMetales. Se recomienda reservar poradelantado, dado que los grupos sontransportados al yacimiento en autocardesde la oficina de venta de billetes enlas cercanías de Ibeas de Juarros.¿Le suena a algo? ¿Recuerda el platode caparrones de Anguiano preparadocon tanto primor por María Luisa?Aquí, como ya sabemos, se llamanalubias de Ibeas y en muchas de lashuertas traseras de esta localidadencontramos todavía las típicasplantas de judías colgadas. Sinembargo, en esta zona las pequeñasalubias rojas se utilizanprincipalmente para preparar la ollapodrida, que lleva además de judías,morcilla de Burgos (ver pág. 64),chorizo, oreja, manitas y costillas decerdo marinadas, tocino y algunoscocineros incluso le añaden cecina.Otro golpe de suerte: Los Claveles, unrestaurante famoso por su ollapodrida, está aquí, en Ibeas. Unpostre de queso de Burgos (típicoqueso blanco de oveja fresco), miel ynueces podría servir de colofónperfecto al viaje.

Más que unitinerario deportivoNo hay duda de que las Vías Verdes

pastores. Esto también resulta útil paralos cazadores y los recolectores desetas que todos los años invaden lazona; especialmente estos últimos hanaumentado notablemente desde que seinauguró la Vía Verde. El alcalde estáseguro de que el boom de Atapuerca(ver más abajo) contribuirá sin duda apromocionar toda la zona. Mientrastanto, en la agenda de Martín Hoyuelofigura en primer lugar la necesidadurgente de alojamientos.

El tramo finalCamino de Riocavado, atravesaremosuna idílica zona de descanso bajoolmos y hayas centenarios y arbustosrepletos de bayas de color azulado.En medio de la ruta se halla lapreciosa Fuente de Monzabaya, queofrece al sediento viajero su fresca ycristalina agua de manantial. En lascercanías se encuentran mesas ybancos, una barbacoa y una pequeñacabaña para refugiarse de lasinclemencias del tiempo. A partir deeste punto, el camino serpentea porviejos bosques, zanjas y praderas,terraplenes, cadenas de montañas,barrancos, impresionantesformaciones de pizarra y torrentes deagua. La parte central de nuestra VíaVerde nos lleva al puerto delManquillo, un paso a 1.450 m / 4.757ft que sin duda no es paraprincipiantes y en el que incluso losmás experimentados ciclistas tendránque bajarse de la bicicleta y subirandando la pronunciadísima

pendiente. El tren sorteaba este tramoa través de un túnel, pero lanaturaleza fue apoderándose poco apoco de él y ahora se encuentraanegado, lleno de maleza y en unestado de abandono tal que losfondos destinados no han sidosuficientes para restaurarlo, al menosde momento. Y, sin embargo, nuestroesfuerzo tiene ciertamente surecompensa: a nuestro alrededor seabre una espléndida vista. A partir deaquí vamos cuesta abajo por uncamino que sigue el curso del todavíajoven río Arlanzón, nacido enRiocavado, hasta alcanzar Pineda dela Sierra. Lo que más destaca en esteprecioso pueblo de montaña lleno deflores y hermosas casonas es SantaJuliana, una iglesia románica del sigloXII, construida en piedra de colorrojo oscuro que presenta un pórticoabsolutamente magnífico. Pineda estambién un punto estratégico para,como Alberto y Nacho, hacer unaparada en una posada con un nombremuy acertado, La Casona. Cuenta concómodas habitaciones, un comedortípico, una confortante comida y, porsupuesto, un espacio para guardar lasbicicletas. José Antonio Aranda, Ana ysus dos hijos de entre doce y catorceaños están bebiendo algo. Ana nosexplica que, “como nunca sabes si vasa encontrar un sitio para comer nidónde”, traen su propia comida yparan en alguna de las áreas dedescanso regularmente repartidas porla vía. Los Aranda son habituales de

las Vías Verdes españolas. “Hemoshecho unas cuantas”, dice JoséAntonio y nos explica que es unaforma estupenda de viajar con lafamilia. “Haces ejercicio, no temolestan los coches y, sencillamente,ves las cosas desde otra perspectiva”.Continuamos nuestro recorrido haciael embalse de Arlanzón, una enormepresa, rodeada de suaves pendientesque el abundantísimo brezo haconvertido en enormes alfombras decolor púrpura. Nos encontramos enlas estribaciones de la sierra de laDemanda y el paisaje, aunquesiempre hermoso, ofrece pocassorpresas a medida que desciendehacia los ondulantes campos de trigoen los alrededores de Burgos. Y ahorasiguiendo un alegre sendero,flanqueado por helechos y brezo,lleno de moras maduras, hacemosnuestra feliz entrada en Arlanzón,lugar donde finaliza nuestra VíaVerde. Sin embargo, quedan aúnmuchas más cosas fascinantes.

Tesoros ocultosen las trincherasEn realidad, aunque la Vía Verdetermina en Arlanzón, la vía de trenoriginal continuaba casi hasta laspuertas de Burgos. El objetivoprincipal de la construcción delferrocarril era transportar el mineralde hierro, transporte que hastaentonces se había hecho en carrostirados por caballos, desde los

españolas ofrecen una forma alternativade evasión temporal de las prisas ypreocupaciones de la vida moderna. Eneste artículo solo hemos echado unvistazo a dos de ellas, pero esperamosque hayan despertado lo suficiente suinterés como para animarle a seguirdescubriendo los innumerables rinconesocultos que ofrece ese variadísimo paísque es España. Julio Verdú tenía razóncuando nos comentó que quería que lasVías Verdes fueran “algo más que unitinerario deportivo”. Nos descubren,desde una perspectiva diferente, losmiles de tesoros que encierra el interiorde España. Si, como hemos visto, lasVías Verdes suponen una diferencia paralos habitantes de los puebloscolindantes, también diferencian a laspersonas que las recorren. No son soloun medio de disfrutar de la naturaleza,visitar lugares y degustar la gastronomíatradicional, sino que tambiénproporcionan la sensación de tener uncontacto mucho más directo con lo quenos rodea. Por desgracia, las Vías Verdessiguen siendo principalmente un lugarvisitado por españoles y solo unreducido grupo de turistas delextranjero las recorre. Es necesariocorrer la voz, así que esperamos que seuna a nosotros en nuestro próximo viajey que las Vías Verdes conquistentambién su corazón.

Anke van Wijck Adán es socióloga y tieneun máster en gastronomía por la BostonUniversity. Sus artículos han aparecido enel Boston Globe.

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VÍAS VERDES

AROUND&ABOUT

what was to become the largestpaleontological excavation site inEurope, declared a World HeritageSite in 2000. If it hadn’t been for therailway, all this might still beundiscovered.And even though it is better not tothink about what may have beenlost, the railway trench made for aperfect cross-section of this layeredenvironment, ready to be explored.However, it was not until the 1960sthat a team of archaeologists realizedwhat the railway had laid bare: aregister of human evolution. Fromthen on, Atapuerca has garnered animpressive record. Not only does ithold evidence of the earliest humanpresence in Western Europe, theearliest signs of cannibalism andfunerary rites, the world’s mostcomplete human skull and thelargest single concentration of pre-Neanderthal remains, but moreimportantly it brought to light theremains of an as yet undocumentedhuman species, the Homo antecessor.Guided tours are available not onlyalong the actual excavation site butalso through the exhibition area andthrough what is especially attractiveand formative for youngsters: atheme park that walks us throughthe main periods of prehistory, fromthe Palaeolithic to the age of metal. Itis advised to make reservations

beforehand as groups are taken tothe actual site by coach from theticket office in nearby Ibeas deJuarros.Now does this ring a bell? Do youremember the plate of caparrones deAnguiano which Maria Luisa solovingly prepared? Well, here, as weknow, they are called Alubias de Ibeasand in many a back garden in thisvillage we will still find the typicalstrung up bean plants. But in thisarea the tiny red beans primarilymake their way into the olla podrida,a stew which, as in addition to redbeans, has morcilla de Burgos (see boxon page 64), chorizo, pig’s ears andfeet and marinated ribs of pork, freshbacon, and some chefs even addcecina. And you’ve lucked out again:Los Claveles, a restaurant famous forits olla podrida, is right here inIbeas. A dessert, queso de Burgos (thetypical fresh white ewes’ cheese),honey and walnuts could just be theright thing to conclude your trip ona high note.

More than asporting routeThere is no doubt that the SpanishGreenways offer an alternative wayto temporarily extricate ourselvesfrom the hassles and hazards ofmodern life. Here we have only had

a peek at two of them, but we trustthat your are curious enough tocontinue discovering the manyhidden corners of multifacetedSpain. Julio Verdú was right when hesaid that he wanted the Vías Verdesto be “more than a sporting route.”They expose us in a very differentway to the myriad of treasures thatSpain’s inland has in store. If, as wehave seen, the Vías Verdes make adifference to the people fromadjacent villages, they also make adifference to the people who travelthem. They are not only a means toenjoy nature, visit places and sampletraditional gastronomy, they also giveus a sense of coming closer intocontact with that which surroundsus. Unfortunately, the Greenwaysremain primarily the territory ofnationals and are visited only insmall numbers by tourists fromabroad. The word needs to get out,so we hope you that will join us onour next trip and that the Greenwayswill also conquer your heart!

Anke van Wijck Adán is a sociologistand has a Master’s degree ingastronomy from Boston University.Her articles have appeared in TheBoston Globe.

The mayor has no qualms aboutpromoting the boom in Atapuerca,which will certainly help to promotethe entire area. In the meantime,high on Hoyuelo’s agenda is theurgent need for accommodation.

The final stretchOn our way out of Riocavado, wewill pass a most idyllic rest areabelow centuries-old oak trees andbeeches and here and there a blue-berried blackthorn. In their midststands the beautiful Fuente deMonzabaya fountain, which providesthe thirsty traveler with cool, clearspring water. Nearby are tables andbenches, a barbecue and a small hutfor refuge in case of inclementweather. From now on we will bemeandering through age-old forests,trenches, and meadows, alongembankments, ridges, gullies andimpressive slate formations and overrushing streams. This central stretchof our Greenway leading up to thePuerto del Manquillo, a pass at1,450 m (4,756 ft), is certainly notfor beginners, and even inuredbikers will have to step down andwalk up the rather steep incline. Theold train would have had cleared thisstretch through a tunnel, but overtime nature took over. Now thetunnel is flooded, overgrown and in

such disrepair that available fundswere not sufficient to restore it, atleast for the time being. Yet our effortcertainly pays off: a splendid viewopens up all around us! And fromnow on we are going downhill, andour path will follow the ArlanzónRiver (which begins in Riocavado)until we reach Pineda de la Sierra.What truly stands out in this prettymountain village full of flowers andbeautiful casonas is its 12th-centuryRomanesque Church of SaintJuliana. Built in dark red stone, itfeatures a most magnificent portico.And Pineda is also a strategic pointto stop at the appropriately namedLa Casona. It is an inn withcomfortable rooms, a typical diningroom with soul-warming food, andof course a space to store bicycles.Ana and José Antonio Aranda, andtheir two sons in their early teens arejust having a drink. Ana explainsthat, “as you never know if andwhere you’ll find a place to eat,” theybring their own food and stop at oneof the regularly dispersed rest areas.The Arandas are regulars on theSpanish Greenways. “We’ve donequite a few,” says José Antonio,explaining that it is a great way totravel with the family. “You’reexercising, you’re undisturbed bycars and you just look at things froma different perspective.”

We now continue our route towardsthe Embalse de Arlanzón, a hugereservoir surrounded by slopeswhich a profusion of heather turnsinto giant purple carpets. We are atthe foothills of the Sierra de laDemanda and the landscape,although invariably pretty, offers fewsurprises as it slowly descendstowards the gently undulating wheatfields around Burgos. And now alonga festive heather and fern-lined pathwith bramble berries everywhere forthe taking, we make our joyousentrance into Arlanzón where ourGreenway comes to an end.Nonetheless, some excitement lies instore.

Treasures from thetrenchesIndeed, while the Vía Verde ends inArlanzón, the original railway trackcontinued almost to the gates ofBurgos. The primary purpose ofbuilding the railway was to transportiron ore which, up until then, hadtraveled in horse-pulled carts fromthe villages in the Sierra de laDemanda to Burgos and from thereon to Bilbao. In many places therailway track was literally carved outthrough forests and hills. And it wasin Atapuerca where luck struck. A20 m (65.6 ft) high trench unveiled

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LA RIOJA

Vía Verde del Cidacos: 34 km / 21 mi entre Calahorra y Arnedillo.Medio natural: bosques de ribera.Patrimonio cultural: conjunto monumentalde Calahorra y Arnedo. Monasterio deVico. Castillo de Quel, Arnedo y Arnedillo.Yacimientos de Icnitas.

Vía Verde de Préjano: 5 km / 3 mi entre la estación de Arnedilloy Préjano (más 4 sobre la Vía Verde delCidacos).Medio natural: cañón del río, frutalesy pinares.Patrimonio cultural: casco urbanode Préjano.

Vía Verde del río Oja: 28 km / 17 mi entre Casalarreina y Ezcaray.Medio natural: bosque de ribera en losmárgenes del Oja. Manchas de caducifoliadesde Ojacastro hasta Ezcaray.Patrimonio cultural: conjuntosmonumentales de Casalarreina y SantoDomingo. Iglesia de Bañares. Cascourbano de Ezcaray e iglesia parroquial.

NAVARRA

Vía Verde del Bidasoa:29 km / 18 mi entre Santesteban yEndarlatza.Medio natural: bosque atlántico y de riberafluvial y prados.Patrimonio cultural: arquitectura rural.

Vía Verde del FerrocarrilVasco-Navarro (II):25 km / 15,5 mi entre Antoñana (Álava) yMurieta (Navarra).Medio natural: barranco fluvial, conbosques de carrasca y de roble marojo.Tilos y tejos centenarios.Patrimonio cultural: santuario de Ibernaloen Campezo. Restos de murallasmedievales, casas nobles, molinos delsiglo XVII y casas-torre en Antoñana yCampezo. Estaciones del ferrocarrilVasco-Navarro.

Vía Verde del Plazaola: 40 km / 24,8 mi entre Lekunberri (Navarra)y Andoain (Gipuzkoa).Medio natural: valles con bosquesatlánticos y de pinos de repoblación.El valle de Leitzarán está catalogado comoBiotopo Natural.Patrimonio cultural: arquitectura popular deMugiro, Lekunberri y Leitza. Casa AstuitzaTorre (siglo XVI) en Andoain.

PAÍS VASCO

Vía Verde de Arditurri:11,5 km / 7 mi entre la bahía de Pasaiay Arditurri (Guipuzkoa).Medio natural: valle de Oiartzun y ParqueNatural de Aiako Harriak (Peñas de Aia).Hayedos.Patrimonio cultural: conjunto minero deArditurri. Barrios de Oiartzun, Altzibary Ergoien.

Vía Verde de Aráosla:5 km / 3 mi entre Apartamonasterio(Atxondo) y Arrazola (Vizcaya).Medio natural: laderas de caliza y densosbosques en el valle.Patrimonio cultural: conjunto de caseríosy casas-torre en Marzana y pequeñasermitas rurales a lo largo del recorrido.

Vía Verde de Atxuri: 5 km / 3 mi entre Mungia y el barrio deMaurola (Artebakarra) (Vizcaya).Medio natural: valle de Atxuri. Parque deUriguen de Mungia.Patrimonio cultural: apeadero deZabalondo, núcleo rural de Atxuri, ermitade San Martín y caserío Landetxo Goikoa.

Vía Verde del FerrocarrilVasco Navarro (I):22,8 km / 14 mi entre Vitoria-Gasteiz y eltúnel de Laminoria (en las cercanías deUllíbarri-Jáuregui), con ramal entre Andolluy el Santuario de Estíbaliz (Álava).Medio natural: tierras de labor y masas debosques relictos de roble.Patrimonio cultural: conjunto urbano deVitoria-Gasteiz. Santuario de Estíbaliz (sigloXII). Casonas de Aberasturi y antiguasestaciones del Ferrocarril Vasco-Navarro.

Vía Verde de Galdames: 15 km / 9,3 mi entre Gallarta (Abanto-Zierbena) y La Aceña-Atxuriaga (Galdames)(Vizcaya).Medio natural: retazos de hayedos yalisedas. Bosques de repoblación.Patrimonio cultural: iglesias de San Pedro(Las Carreras) y Santa Juliana en Abanto.Palacio de la Torre del Barco enSanfuentes. Museo de la Minería del PaísVasco en Gallarta y Ferrería El Pobalen Muskiz.

Vía Verde del Urola: 21 km / 13 mi entre Azkoitia-Zumárraga-Urretxu-Legazpi (Guipuzkoa).Medio natural: valle, barrancos y montes.Patrimonio cultural: casas y palacios deAzkoitia y Zumárraga. Dólmenes y túmulosmegalíticos de Zumárraga. Basílica deLoiola en Azpeitia. Museo del Ferrocarrilen Azpeitia.

Vía Verde del Zadorra:15 km / 9,3 mi entre Vitoria-Gasteiz yPuerto de Arlabán (Álava).Medio natural: humedal con importanteavifauna. Robledales y bosques.Patrimonio cultural: casco urbano deVitoria-Gasteiz. Iglesias de Gamarra Menor,Durana y Landa. Palacio de Arzamendi enLuko y antiguas estaciones del FerrocarrilVasco-Navarro.

En la actualidad, hay 64 Vías Verdes quepueden ser utilizadas por caminantes yusuarios de bicicletas. Esto supone 1.600km / 994 mi disponibles de más de 7.000km / 4.349 mi de líneas de ferrocarril endesuso. Aquí presentamos las Vías Verdesmejor acondicionadas del tercio norte de lapenínsula Ibérica. Para ampliar y actualizaresta información, lo mejor es acceder ala página oficial del programa de VíasVerdes, que usted puede localizar en:www.viasverdes.com

ASTURIAS

Vía Verde del Eo:12 km / 7,4 mi entre San Tirso de Abrés yVillaodriz (Asturias y Lugo, Galicia).Medio natural: bosque de ribera conintensas repoblaciones de eucaliptos.Patrimonio cultural: castros y dólmenesprehistóricos. Palacio del Pacio (siglo XVIII)en San Tirso. Iglesia de Sta. María (sigloXVII) en Conforto (A Pontenova).

Vía Verde de la Camocha: 6,5 km / 4 mi entre la mina La Camocha yel barrio de Tremañes.Medio natural: campiña asturiana.Patrimonio cultural: casco urbano de Gijón.

Vía Verde de Fuso:25,5 km / 16 mi entre Tuñón y Oviedo.Medio natural: valle y prados.Patrimonio cultural: conjunto monumentalde Oviedo.

Vía Verde de la Senda del Oso: 29 km / 16 mi entre Entrago y Tuñón, conun ramal entre Caranga y Quirós de 10 km/ 6 mi.Medio natural: valles de montaña,desfiladeros y bosques atlánticos.Patrimonio cultural: iglesias de La Plazay Tuñón, monumentos nacionales.Palacios y torreones medievales.Arquitectura popular. Centro deInterpretación en Tuñón.

Vía Verde del Tranqueru: 1,2 km / 0,7 mi entre Perlora y Xivares.Medio natural: acantilados.Patrimonio cultural: casonas asturianas.Parque Arqueológico Natural Campa Torres.Necrópolis del monte Areo. Más de 30dólmenes y túmulos de la Edad de Bronce.

Vía Verde del valle de Turón:12 km / 7,4 mi entre Reicastro en Ujoy La Molinera en Urbiés de Turón, Concejode Mieres.Medio natural: paisaje protegido de lascuencas mineras con variedad de bosques(castaños, robles, etc.).Patrimonio cultural: castilletes minerosde Figariedo, San José, Santa Bárbara y,sobre todo, Espinos. Minas de SantoTomás, San José, San Pedro, Fortuna,Podizo y Corrales. Puentes de Arnizo yPomar construidos por un discípulo deEifel. Sala de máquinas de la Güeria.Etnografía de los pueblos de Villandioy Enverniego.

CANTABRIA

Vía Verde del Pas:34 km / 21 mi entre Astillero y Ontaneda.Medio natural: desde valles cantábricos ala bahía de Santander.Patrimonio cultural: balnearios de Alceda yPuente Viesgo. Torre de El Soto. Pinturasrupestres en cuevas de Puente Viesgo.

Vía Verde del Piquillo: 1,5 km / 0,9 mi entre Ontón (Castro-Urdiales) y Cobarón (Vizcaya). Aquí se unecon la Itxaslur que acaba en la playa de LaArena (Muskiz-Vizcaya).Medio natural: higueras y encinarcantábrico.Patrimonio cultural: iglesia de Santa Maríade la Asunción (siglo XIII), castillo Faro,millario Romano (año 61 d. C.), puenteMedieval, ermita de Santa Ana,ayuntamiento (siglo XVI), palacio y castillode Ocharan (siglo XX) en Castro Urdiales.

CASTILLA Y LEÓN

Vía verde del Esla: 11 km / 6,8 mi entre Valencia de Don Juany Castrofuerte (León).Medio natural: bosques de ribera y llanuracerealista.Patrimonio cultural: castillo de Valencia deDon Juan.

Vía Verde del Ferrocarril Santander-Mediterráneo:3,7 km / 2,3 mi entre Burgos y Cardeñadijoy 6 km / 3,7 mi entre el término municipal deModúbar y estación de Cojóbar.Medio natural: valle del río Cardeñadijo.Patrimonio cultural: conjunto monumental deBurgos. Monasterio de San Pedro deCardeña. Yacimiento Neolítico AltoteroModúbar. Iglesia de San Cristóbal (siglo XIII)Cojóbar.

Vía Verde de Laciana: 6,3 km / 4 mi entre Villablino y Caboalles deArriba (León).Medio natural: bosques de ribera, bosquecaducifolio cantábrico y praderas.Patrimonio cultural: arqueología industrialminera. Centro de Interpretación del Urogallo.

Vía Verde de la sierra de la Demanda: 54 km / 33,5 mi entre Monterrubio de laDemanda y Arlanzón (Burgos).Medio natural: hayedos y pinares.Patrimonio cultural: conjunto histórico artísticode Pineda de la Sierra. Yacimiento deAtapuerca, próximo al inicio de la ruta.

Vía Verde de Tierra de Campos: 4,5 km / 2,7 mi entre Cuenca de Camposy Villalón (Valladolid).Medio natural: cultivos de cereal.Patrimonio cultural: rollo jurisdiccional o picota(año 1523), iglesias de San Miguel Arcángel(siglo XIV), San Juan Bautista (siglo XV), SanPedro (siglo XVIII) y la ermita de la Virgen deFuentes (siglo XVIII), Palomares en Villalón.Iglesias de San Justo y Pastor, Santa Maríadel Castillo y la ermita de San Bernardino,Palomares en Cuenca de Campos.

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LA RIOJA

Vía Verde del Cidacos:34 km (21 mi) between Calahorra andArnedillo.Natural environment: Riverside woodland.Cultural heritage: Calahorra y Arrendómonumental heritage site. Vico Monastery.Quel, Arnedo y Arnedillo Castle. IcnitasArchaelogical Site.

Vía Verde de Préjano:5 km (3 mi) between Arnedillo station andPréjano (and a further 4 km (2.51 mi) onthe Vía Verde del Cidacos).Natural environment: River canyon, fruitand pine trees.Cultural heritage: Préjano city center.

Vía Verde del Río Oja:28 km (17 mi) between Casalarreina andEzcaray.Natural environment: Riverside woodlandbeside the Oja River. Patches of deciduouswoodland between Ojacastro and Ezcaray.Cultural heritage: Casalarreina and SantoDomingo monumental heritage sites.Bañares Church. Ezcaray city center and aparish church.

NAVARRE

Vía Verde del Bidasoa:29 km (18 mi) between Santesteban andEndarlatza.Natural environment: Atlantic woodland,riverside woodland and meadows.Cultural heritage: Rural architecture.

Vía Verde del Ferrocarril Vasco-Navarro (II):25 km (15.5 mi) between Antoñana (Álava)and Murieta (Navarre).Natural environment: stream-fed ravine,with kermes oaks and sessile oaksHundred-year-old lime and yew trees.Cultural heritage: Ibernalo sanctuary inCampezo. Remains of medieval walls,noble manors, 17th century windmills andtower-houses in Antoñana and Campezo.Vasco-Navarro railway stations.

Vía Verde del Plazaola:40 km (25 mi) between Lekunberri(Navarre) and Andoain (Gipuzkoa).Natural environment: Valleys with replantedAtlantic woodland and pine trees. TheLeitzarán Valley has been classified as aNatural Biotope.Cultural heritage: Traditional architecture inMugiro, Lekunberri and Leitza. CasaAstuitza Tower (16th century) in Andoain.

BASQUE COUNTRY

Vía Verde de Arditurri:11.5 km (7 mi) between the Bay of Pasaiaand Arditurri (Guipuzkoa).Natural environment: Oiartzun Valley andthe Aiako Harriak Natural Park (Peñas deAia). Beech woodland.Cultural heritage: Arditurri mining site.Oiartzun, Altzibar and Ergoien districts.

Vía Verde de Aráosla:5 km (3 mi) between Apartamonasterio(Atxondo) and Arrazola (Vizcaya).Natural environment: Limestone slopes anddense forests in the valley.Cultural heritage: Farmhouses and tower-houses in Marzana and small, ruralhermitages all along the trail.

Vía Verde de Atxuri:5 km (3 mi) between Mungia and thedistrict Maurola (Artebakarra) (Vizcaya).Natural environment: Atxuri Valley. Uriguende Mungia Park.Cultural heritage: Zabalondo stoppingpoint, the Atxuri rural center, San Martínhermitage and Landetxo Goikoafarmhouse.

Vía Verde del Ferrocarril VascoNavarro (I):22.8 km (14 mi) between Vitoria-Gasteizand the Laminoria tunnel (near Ullíbarri-Jáuregui), with a branch line betweenAndollu and the Estíbaliz Sanctuary (Álava).Natural environment: Agricultural land,patches of oak woodland.Cultural heritage: Vitoria-Gasteiz citycenter. Estíbaliz sanctuary (12th century).Aberasturi manor house and the oldVasco-Navarro railway stations.

Vía Verde de Galdames:15 km (9 mi) between Gallarta (Abanto-Zierbena) and La Aceña-Atxuriaga(Galdames) (Vizcaya).Natural environment: Patches of adler andbeech woodland. Replanted forests.Cultural heritage: Churches of San Pedro(Las Carreras) and Santa Juliana in Abanto.Torre del Barco Palace in Sanfuentes.Basque Country mining museum inGallarta and the El Pobal forge en Muskiz.

Vía Verde del Urola:21 km (13 mi) between Azkoitia -Zumárraga - Urretxu - Legazpi(Guipuzkoa).Natural environment: Valley, ravines andmountains.Cultural heritage: Homes and palaces inAzkoitia and Zumárraga. Megalithicdolmens and tumuli in Zumárraga. LoiolaBasilica in Azpeitia. Railway Museum inAzpeitia.

Vía Verde del Zadorra:15 km (9 mi) between Vitoria-Gasteiz andthe Puerto de Arlabán (Álava).Natural environment: Wetland withsignificant bird population. Oak groves andwoodland.Cultural heritage: Vitoria-Gasteiz citycenter. Churches of Gamarra Menor,Durana and Landa. Arzamendi Palace inLuko and the old Vasco-Navarro railwaystations.

Currently there are 64 Greenways whichmay be used fby walkers and cyclists. Thismeans that, of the more than 7,000 km(4,347 mi) of railway tracks in disuse, 1,600km (993.6 mi) are available for use. Herewere offer you a list of the best Greenwaysin the northern third of the IberianPeninsula. For more extensive and up-to-date information, please visit theGreenways’ official website:www.viasverdes.com

ASTURIAS

Vía Verde del Eo:12 km (7.5 mi) between San Tirso deAbrés and Villaodriz (Asturias and Lugo,Galicia).Natural environment: Riverside woodlandwith intensive eucalyptus replanting.Cultural heritage: Prehistoric burialchambers and dolmens. Pacio Palace (18th

century) in San Tirso. Santa. María Church(17th century) in Conforto (A Pontenova).

Vía Verde de la Camocha:6.5 km (4 mi) between the La Camochamine and Tremañes district.Natural environment: Asturian countryside.Cultural heritage: Gijón’s city center.

Vía Verde de Fuso:25.5 km (16 mi) between Tuñón andOviedo.Natural environment: Valley and meadows.Cultural heritage: Oviedo’s monumentalheritage site.

Vía Verde de la Senda del Oso:29 km (18 mi) between Entrago and Tuñón,with a 10 km (6.2 mi) branch line betweenCaranga and Quirós.Natural environment: Mountain valleys,narrow passes and Atlantic woodland.Cultural heritage: La Plaza and Muñónchurches, national monuments. Palacesand large fortified medieval towers.Traditional architecture. Interpretationcenter in Tuñón.

Vía Verde del Tranqueru:1.2 km (0.7 mi) between Perlora andXivares.Natural environment: Cliffs.Cultural heritage: Asturian farmhouses.Campa Torres Natural and ArchaeologicalPark. Monte Areo Necropolis. More than30 burial chambers and tumuli from theBronze Age.

Vía Verde del Valle de Turón:12 km (7.5 mi) between Reicastro en Ujoand La Molinera in Urbiés de Turón,Concejo de Mieres.Natural environment: Protected mining areawith forests of different tree species(chestnut, oak, etc.).Cultural heritage: Mining towers inFigariedo, San José, Santa Bárbara and,above all, Espinos. Mines in Santo Tomás,San José, San Pedro, Fortuna, Podizo andCorrales. Arnizo Bridge and the PomarBridge built by a disciple of Eiffel. Güeriamechanical rooms. Ethnography of thevillages Villandio and Enverniego.

CANTABRIA

Vía Verde del Pas:34 km (21 mi) between Astillero andOntaneda.Natural environment: From the Cantabrianvalleys to the Bay of Santander.Cultural heritage: The spas of Alceda andthe Viesgo Bridge. El Soto Tower. Cavepaintings in the Viesgo Bridge caves.

Vía Verde del Piquillo:1.5 km (0.9 mi) between Ontón (Castro-Urdiales) and Cobarón (Vizcaya). Here itjoins with the Itxaslur which ends at LaPlaya de la Arena Beach (Muskiz-Vizcaya).Natural environment: Cantabrian fig treesand holm oaks.Cultural heritage: Church of Santa Maria dela Asunción (13th century), Faro Castle,Roman Milestone (61AD), Medieval Bridge,Santa Ana Hermitage, Town Hall (16th

century), Ocharan Palace and Castle (20th

century) in Castro Urdiales.

CASTILE-LEON

Vía Verde del Esla:11 km (6.8 mi) between Valencia de Don Juanand Castrofuerte (León).Natural environment: Riverside woodland andcereal plains.Cultural heritage: Valencia de Don Juancastle.

Vía Verde del Ferrocarril Santander-Mediterráneo.3.7 km (2.3 mi) between Burgos andCardeñadijo and 6 km (3.7 mi) between themunicipality of Modúbar and Cojóbar station.Natural environment: Cardeñadijo River valley.Cultural heritage: Burgos monumentalheritage site. San Pedro de CardeñaMonastery. Altotero Modúbar Neolithic Site.San Cristóbal Cojóbar church (13th century).

Vía Verde de Laciana:6.3 km (4 mi) between Villablino andCaboalles de Arriba (León).Natural environment: Riverside woodland,Cantabrian deciduous woodland andmeadows.Cultural heritage: Industrial miningarchaeology. Urogallo Interpretation Center.

Vía Verde de la Sierra de la Demanda:54 km (33.5 mi) between Monterrubio de laDemanda and Arlanzón (Burgos).Natural environment: Beech and pine forests.Cultural heritage: Pineda de la Sierra HistoricArtistic Site. Atapuerca Archaelogical Site,close to where the route begins.

Vía Verde de Tierra de Campos:4.5 km (3 mi) between Cuenca de Camposand Villalón (Valladolid).Natural environment: cereal crops.Cultural heritage: Pillory (1523), the churchesof San Miguel Arcángel (14th century), SanJuan Bautista (15th century), San Pedro (18th

century) and the Virgen de Fuentes Hermitage(18

thcentury), Dovecotes in Villalón. Churches

of San Justo y Pastor, Santa María del Castilloand the San Bernardino Hermitage,Dovecotes in Cuenca de Campos.

T H E N O R T H E R N R O U T E

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LA RIOJA

Vía Verde del Cidacos: 34 km / 21 mi entre Calahorra y Arnedillo.Medio natural: bosques de ribera.Patrimonio cultural: conjunto monumentalde Calahorra y Arnedo. Monasterio deVico. Castillo de Quel, Arnedo y Arnedillo.Yacimientos de Icnitas.

Vía Verde de Préjano: 5 km / 3 mi entre la estación de Arnedilloy Préjano (más 4 sobre la Vía Verde delCidacos).Medio natural: cañón del río, frutalesy pinares.Patrimonio cultural: casco urbanode Préjano.

Vía Verde del río Oja: 28 km / 17 mi entre Casalarreina y Ezcaray.Medio natural: bosque de ribera en losmárgenes del Oja. Manchas de caducifoliadesde Ojacastro hasta Ezcaray.Patrimonio cultural: conjuntosmonumentales de Casalarreina y SantoDomingo. Iglesia de Bañares. Cascourbano de Ezcaray e iglesia parroquial.

NAVARRA

Vía Verde del Bidasoa:29 km / 18 mi entre Santesteban yEndarlatza.Medio natural: bosque atlántico y de riberafluvial y prados.Patrimonio cultural: arquitectura rural.

Vía Verde del FerrocarrilVasco-Navarro (II):25 km / 15,5 mi entre Antoñana (Álava) yMurieta (Navarra).Medio natural: barranco fluvial, conbosques de carrasca y de roble marojo.Tilos y tejos centenarios.Patrimonio cultural: santuario de Ibernaloen Campezo. Restos de murallasmedievales, casas nobles, molinos delsiglo XVII y casas-torre en Antoñana yCampezo. Estaciones del ferrocarrilVasco-Navarro.

Vía Verde del Plazaola: 40 km / 24,8 mi entre Lekunberri (Navarra)y Andoain (Gipuzkoa).Medio natural: valles con bosquesatlánticos y de pinos de repoblación.El valle de Leitzarán está catalogado comoBiotopo Natural.Patrimonio cultural: arquitectura popular deMugiro, Lekunberri y Leitza. Casa AstuitzaTorre (siglo XVI) en Andoain.

PAÍS VASCO

Vía Verde de Arditurri:11,5 km / 7 mi entre la bahía de Pasaiay Arditurri (Guipuzkoa).Medio natural: valle de Oiartzun y ParqueNatural de Aiako Harriak (Peñas de Aia).Hayedos.Patrimonio cultural: conjunto minero deArditurri. Barrios de Oiartzun, Altzibary Ergoien.

Vía Verde de Aráosla:5 km / 3 mi entre Apartamonasterio(Atxondo) y Arrazola (Vizcaya).Medio natural: laderas de caliza y densosbosques en el valle.Patrimonio cultural: conjunto de caseríosy casas-torre en Marzana y pequeñasermitas rurales a lo largo del recorrido.

Vía Verde de Atxuri: 5 km / 3 mi entre Mungia y el barrio deMaurola (Artebakarra) (Vizcaya).Medio natural: valle de Atxuri. Parque deUriguen de Mungia.Patrimonio cultural: apeadero deZabalondo, núcleo rural de Atxuri, ermitade San Martín y caserío Landetxo Goikoa.

Vía Verde del FerrocarrilVasco Navarro (I):22,8 km / 14 mi entre Vitoria-Gasteiz y eltúnel de Laminoria (en las cercanías deUllíbarri-Jáuregui), con ramal entre Andolluy el Santuario de Estíbaliz (Álava).Medio natural: tierras de labor y masas debosques relictos de roble.Patrimonio cultural: conjunto urbano deVitoria-Gasteiz. Santuario de Estíbaliz (sigloXII). Casonas de Aberasturi y antiguasestaciones del Ferrocarril Vasco-Navarro.

Vía Verde de Galdames: 15 km / 9,3 mi entre Gallarta (Abanto-Zierbena) y La Aceña-Atxuriaga (Galdames)(Vizcaya).Medio natural: retazos de hayedos yalisedas. Bosques de repoblación.Patrimonio cultural: iglesias de San Pedro(Las Carreras) y Santa Juliana en Abanto.Palacio de la Torre del Barco enSanfuentes. Museo de la Minería del PaísVasco en Gallarta y Ferrería El Pobalen Muskiz.

Vía Verde del Urola: 21 km / 13 mi entre Azkoitia-Zumárraga-Urretxu-Legazpi (Guipuzkoa).Medio natural: valle, barrancos y montes.Patrimonio cultural: casas y palacios deAzkoitia y Zumárraga. Dólmenes y túmulosmegalíticos de Zumárraga. Basílica deLoiola en Azpeitia. Museo del Ferrocarrilen Azpeitia.

Vía Verde del Zadorra:15 km / 9,3 mi entre Vitoria-Gasteiz yPuerto de Arlabán (Álava).Medio natural: humedal con importanteavifauna. Robledales y bosques.Patrimonio cultural: casco urbano deVitoria-Gasteiz. Iglesias de Gamarra Menor,Durana y Landa. Palacio de Arzamendi enLuko y antiguas estaciones del FerrocarrilVasco-Navarro.

En la actualidad, hay 64 Vías Verdes quepueden ser utilizadas por caminantes yusuarios de bicicletas. Esto supone 1.600km / 994 mi disponibles de más de 7.000km / 4.349 mi de líneas de ferrocarril endesuso. Aquí presentamos las Vías Verdesmejor acondicionadas del tercio norte de lapenínsula Ibérica. Para ampliar y actualizaresta información, lo mejor es acceder ala página oficial del programa de VíasVerdes, que usted puede localizar en:www.viasverdes.com

ASTURIAS

Vía Verde del Eo:12 km / 7,4 mi entre San Tirso de Abrés yVillaodriz (Asturias y Lugo, Galicia).Medio natural: bosque de ribera conintensas repoblaciones de eucaliptos.Patrimonio cultural: castros y dólmenesprehistóricos. Palacio del Pacio (siglo XVIII)en San Tirso. Iglesia de Sta. María (sigloXVII) en Conforto (A Pontenova).

Vía Verde de la Camocha: 6,5 km / 4 mi entre la mina La Camocha yel barrio de Tremañes.Medio natural: campiña asturiana.Patrimonio cultural: casco urbano de Gijón.

Vía Verde de Fuso:25,5 km / 16 mi entre Tuñón y Oviedo.Medio natural: valle y prados.Patrimonio cultural: conjunto monumentalde Oviedo.

Vía Verde de la Senda del Oso: 29 km / 16 mi entre Entrago y Tuñón, conun ramal entre Caranga y Quirós de 10 km/ 6 mi.Medio natural: valles de montaña,desfiladeros y bosques atlánticos.Patrimonio cultural: iglesias de La Plazay Tuñón, monumentos nacionales.Palacios y torreones medievales.Arquitectura popular. Centro deInterpretación en Tuñón.

Vía Verde del Tranqueru: 1,2 km / 0,7 mi entre Perlora y Xivares.Medio natural: acantilados.Patrimonio cultural: casonas asturianas.Parque Arqueológico Natural Campa Torres.Necrópolis del monte Areo. Más de 30dólmenes y túmulos de la Edad de Bronce.

Vía Verde del valle de Turón:12 km / 7,4 mi entre Reicastro en Ujoy La Molinera en Urbiés de Turón, Concejode Mieres.Medio natural: paisaje protegido de lascuencas mineras con variedad de bosques(castaños, robles, etc.).Patrimonio cultural: castilletes minerosde Figariedo, San José, Santa Bárbara y,sobre todo, Espinos. Minas de SantoTomás, San José, San Pedro, Fortuna,Podizo y Corrales. Puentes de Arnizo yPomar construidos por un discípulo deEifel. Sala de máquinas de la Güeria.Etnografía de los pueblos de Villandioy Enverniego.

CANTABRIA

Vía Verde del Pas:34 km / 21 mi entre Astillero y Ontaneda.Medio natural: desde valles cantábricos ala bahía de Santander.Patrimonio cultural: balnearios de Alceda yPuente Viesgo. Torre de El Soto. Pinturasrupestres en cuevas de Puente Viesgo.

Vía Verde del Piquillo: 1,5 km / 0,9 mi entre Ontón (Castro-Urdiales) y Cobarón (Vizcaya). Aquí se unecon la Itxaslur que acaba en la playa de LaArena (Muskiz-Vizcaya).Medio natural: higueras y encinarcantábrico.Patrimonio cultural: iglesia de Santa Maríade la Asunción (siglo XIII), castillo Faro,millario Romano (año 61 d. C.), puenteMedieval, ermita de Santa Ana,ayuntamiento (siglo XVI), palacio y castillode Ocharan (siglo XX) en Castro Urdiales.

CASTILLA Y LEÓN

Vía verde del Esla: 11 km / 6,8 mi entre Valencia de Don Juany Castrofuerte (León).Medio natural: bosques de ribera y llanuracerealista.Patrimonio cultural: castillo de Valencia deDon Juan.

Vía Verde del Ferrocarril Santander-Mediterráneo:3,7 km / 2,3 mi entre Burgos y Cardeñadijoy 6 km / 3,7 mi entre el término municipal deModúbar y estación de Cojóbar.Medio natural: valle del río Cardeñadijo.Patrimonio cultural: conjunto monumental deBurgos. Monasterio de San Pedro deCardeña. Yacimiento Neolítico AltoteroModúbar. Iglesia de San Cristóbal (siglo XIII)Cojóbar.

Vía Verde de Laciana: 6,3 km / 4 mi entre Villablino y Caboalles deArriba (León).Medio natural: bosques de ribera, bosquecaducifolio cantábrico y praderas.Patrimonio cultural: arqueología industrialminera. Centro de Interpretación del Urogallo.

Vía Verde de la sierra de la Demanda: 54 km / 33,5 mi entre Monterrubio de laDemanda y Arlanzón (Burgos).Medio natural: hayedos y pinares.Patrimonio cultural: conjunto histórico artísticode Pineda de la Sierra. Yacimiento deAtapuerca, próximo al inicio de la ruta.

Vía Verde de Tierra de Campos: 4,5 km / 2,7 mi entre Cuenca de Camposy Villalón (Valladolid).Medio natural: cultivos de cereal.Patrimonio cultural: rollo jurisdiccional o picota(año 1523), iglesias de San Miguel Arcángel(siglo XIV), San Juan Bautista (siglo XV), SanPedro (siglo XVIII) y la ermita de la Virgen deFuentes (siglo XVIII), Palomares en Villalón.Iglesias de San Justo y Pastor, Santa Maríadel Castillo y la ermita de San Bernardino,Palomares en Cuenca de Campos.

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LA RIOJA

Vía Verde del Cidacos:34 km (21 mi) between Calahorra andArnedillo.Natural environment: Riverside woodland.Cultural heritage: Calahorra y Arrendómonumental heritage site. Vico Monastery.Quel, Arnedo y Arnedillo Castle. IcnitasArchaelogical Site.

Vía Verde de Préjano:5 km (3 mi) between Arnedillo station andPréjano (and a further 4 km (2.51 mi) onthe Vía Verde del Cidacos).Natural environment: River canyon, fruitand pine trees.Cultural heritage: Préjano city center.

Vía Verde del Río Oja:28 km (17 mi) between Casalarreina andEzcaray.Natural environment: Riverside woodlandbeside the Oja River. Patches of deciduouswoodland between Ojacastro and Ezcaray.Cultural heritage: Casalarreina and SantoDomingo monumental heritage sites.Bañares Church. Ezcaray city center and aparish church.

NAVARRE

Vía Verde del Bidasoa:29 km (18 mi) between Santesteban andEndarlatza.Natural environment: Atlantic woodland,riverside woodland and meadows.Cultural heritage: Rural architecture.

Vía Verde del Ferrocarril Vasco-Navarro (II):25 km (15.5 mi) between Antoñana (Álava)and Murieta (Navarre).Natural environment: stream-fed ravine,with kermes oaks and sessile oaksHundred-year-old lime and yew trees.Cultural heritage: Ibernalo sanctuary inCampezo. Remains of medieval walls,noble manors, 17th century windmills andtower-houses in Antoñana and Campezo.Vasco-Navarro railway stations.

Vía Verde del Plazaola:40 km (25 mi) between Lekunberri(Navarre) and Andoain (Gipuzkoa).Natural environment: Valleys with replantedAtlantic woodland and pine trees. TheLeitzarán Valley has been classified as aNatural Biotope.Cultural heritage: Traditional architecture inMugiro, Lekunberri and Leitza. CasaAstuitza Tower (16th century) in Andoain.

BASQUE COUNTRY

Vía Verde de Arditurri:11.5 km (7 mi) between the Bay of Pasaiaand Arditurri (Guipuzkoa).Natural environment: Oiartzun Valley andthe Aiako Harriak Natural Park (Peñas deAia). Beech woodland.Cultural heritage: Arditurri mining site.Oiartzun, Altzibar and Ergoien districts.

Vía Verde de Aráosla:5 km (3 mi) between Apartamonasterio(Atxondo) and Arrazola (Vizcaya).Natural environment: Limestone slopes anddense forests in the valley.Cultural heritage: Farmhouses and tower-houses in Marzana and small, ruralhermitages all along the trail.

Vía Verde de Atxuri:5 km (3 mi) between Mungia and thedistrict Maurola (Artebakarra) (Vizcaya).Natural environment: Atxuri Valley. Uriguende Mungia Park.Cultural heritage: Zabalondo stoppingpoint, the Atxuri rural center, San Martínhermitage and Landetxo Goikoafarmhouse.

Vía Verde del Ferrocarril VascoNavarro (I):22.8 km (14 mi) between Vitoria-Gasteizand the Laminoria tunnel (near Ullíbarri-Jáuregui), with a branch line betweenAndollu and the Estíbaliz Sanctuary (Álava).Natural environment: Agricultural land,patches of oak woodland.Cultural heritage: Vitoria-Gasteiz citycenter. Estíbaliz sanctuary (12th century).Aberasturi manor house and the oldVasco-Navarro railway stations.

Vía Verde de Galdames:15 km (9 mi) between Gallarta (Abanto-Zierbena) and La Aceña-Atxuriaga(Galdames) (Vizcaya).Natural environment: Patches of adler andbeech woodland. Replanted forests.Cultural heritage: Churches of San Pedro(Las Carreras) and Santa Juliana in Abanto.Torre del Barco Palace in Sanfuentes.Basque Country mining museum inGallarta and the El Pobal forge en Muskiz.

Vía Verde del Urola:21 km (13 mi) between Azkoitia -Zumárraga - Urretxu - Legazpi(Guipuzkoa).Natural environment: Valley, ravines andmountains.Cultural heritage: Homes and palaces inAzkoitia and Zumárraga. Megalithicdolmens and tumuli in Zumárraga. LoiolaBasilica in Azpeitia. Railway Museum inAzpeitia.

Vía Verde del Zadorra:15 km (9 mi) between Vitoria-Gasteiz andthe Puerto de Arlabán (Álava).Natural environment: Wetland withsignificant bird population. Oak groves andwoodland.Cultural heritage: Vitoria-Gasteiz citycenter. Churches of Gamarra Menor,Durana and Landa. Arzamendi Palace inLuko and the old Vasco-Navarro railwaystations.

Currently there are 64 Greenways whichmay be used fby walkers and cyclists. Thismeans that, of the more than 7,000 km(4,347 mi) of railway tracks in disuse, 1,600km (993.6 mi) are available for use. Herewere offer you a list of the best Greenwaysin the northern third of the IberianPeninsula. For more extensive and up-to-date information, please visit theGreenways’ official website:www.viasverdes.com

ASTURIAS

Vía Verde del Eo:12 km (7.5 mi) between San Tirso deAbrés and Villaodriz (Asturias and Lugo,Galicia).Natural environment: Riverside woodlandwith intensive eucalyptus replanting.Cultural heritage: Prehistoric burialchambers and dolmens. Pacio Palace (18th

century) in San Tirso. Santa. María Church(17th century) in Conforto (A Pontenova).

Vía Verde de la Camocha:6.5 km (4 mi) between the La Camochamine and Tremañes district.Natural environment: Asturian countryside.Cultural heritage: Gijón’s city center.

Vía Verde de Fuso:25.5 km (16 mi) between Tuñón andOviedo.Natural environment: Valley and meadows.Cultural heritage: Oviedo’s monumentalheritage site.

Vía Verde de la Senda del Oso:29 km (18 mi) between Entrago and Tuñón,with a 10 km (6.2 mi) branch line betweenCaranga and Quirós.Natural environment: Mountain valleys,narrow passes and Atlantic woodland.Cultural heritage: La Plaza and Muñónchurches, national monuments. Palacesand large fortified medieval towers.Traditional architecture. Interpretationcenter in Tuñón.

Vía Verde del Tranqueru:1.2 km (0.7 mi) between Perlora andXivares.Natural environment: Cliffs.Cultural heritage: Asturian farmhouses.Campa Torres Natural and ArchaeologicalPark. Monte Areo Necropolis. More than30 burial chambers and tumuli from theBronze Age.

Vía Verde del Valle de Turón:12 km (7.5 mi) between Reicastro en Ujoand La Molinera in Urbiés de Turón,Concejo de Mieres.Natural environment: Protected mining areawith forests of different tree species(chestnut, oak, etc.).Cultural heritage: Mining towers inFigariedo, San José, Santa Bárbara and,above all, Espinos. Mines in Santo Tomás,San José, San Pedro, Fortuna, Podizo andCorrales. Arnizo Bridge and the PomarBridge built by a disciple of Eiffel. Güeriamechanical rooms. Ethnography of thevillages Villandio and Enverniego.

CANTABRIA

Vía Verde del Pas:34 km (21 mi) between Astillero andOntaneda.Natural environment: From the Cantabrianvalleys to the Bay of Santander.Cultural heritage: The spas of Alceda andthe Viesgo Bridge. El Soto Tower. Cavepaintings in the Viesgo Bridge caves.

Vía Verde del Piquillo:1.5 km (0.9 mi) between Ontón (Castro-Urdiales) and Cobarón (Vizcaya). Here itjoins with the Itxaslur which ends at LaPlaya de la Arena Beach (Muskiz-Vizcaya).Natural environment: Cantabrian fig treesand holm oaks.Cultural heritage: Church of Santa Maria dela Asunción (13th century), Faro Castle,Roman Milestone (61AD), Medieval Bridge,Santa Ana Hermitage, Town Hall (16th

century), Ocharan Palace and Castle (20th

century) in Castro Urdiales.

CASTILE-LEON

Vía Verde del Esla:11 km (6.8 mi) between Valencia de Don Juanand Castrofuerte (León).Natural environment: Riverside woodland andcereal plains.Cultural heritage: Valencia de Don Juancastle.

Vía Verde del Ferrocarril Santander-Mediterráneo.3.7 km (2.3 mi) between Burgos andCardeñadijo and 6 km (3.7 mi) between themunicipality of Modúbar and Cojóbar station.Natural environment: Cardeñadijo River valley.Cultural heritage: Burgos monumentalheritage site. San Pedro de CardeñaMonastery. Altotero Modúbar Neolithic Site.San Cristóbal Cojóbar church (13th century).

Vía Verde de Laciana:6.3 km (4 mi) between Villablino andCaboalles de Arriba (León).Natural environment: Riverside woodland,Cantabrian deciduous woodland andmeadows.Cultural heritage: Industrial miningarchaeology. Urogallo Interpretation Center.

Vía Verde de la Sierra de la Demanda:54 km (33.5 mi) between Monterrubio de laDemanda and Arlanzón (Burgos).Natural environment: Beech and pine forests.Cultural heritage: Pineda de la Sierra HistoricArtistic Site. Atapuerca Archaelogical Site,close to where the route begins.

Vía Verde de Tierra de Campos:4.5 km (3 mi) between Cuenca de Camposand Villalón (Valladolid).Natural environment: cereal crops.Cultural heritage: Pillory (1523), the churchesof San Miguel Arcángel (14th century), SanJuan Bautista (15th century), San Pedro (18th

century) and the Virgen de Fuentes Hermitage(18

thcentury), Dovecotes in Villalón. Churches

of San Justo y Pastor, Santa María del Castilloand the San Bernardino Hermitage,Dovecotes in Cuenca de Campos.

T H E N O R T H E R N R O U T E

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vanguardia española.Ronny es uno de los quince jóvenescocineros, procedentes de Dinamarca,Alemania, Suiza, Estados Unidos yJapón, que participan en la primeraedición del Programa de Formación deJóvenes Profesionales Extranjeros enAlta Gastronomía Española,desarrollado por el Instituto Españolde Comercio Exterior (ICEX) encolaboración con una selección de losrestaurantes españoles másprestigiosos, todos ellos galardonadoscon estrellas del firmamento Michelin,y el obrador de Oriol Balaguer, derenombre internacional. Estaexperiencia piloto, que tiene una claravocación de continuidad, pretende quecocineros menores de 30 años, conexperiencia de al menos tres años enrestauración de prestigio y conconocimientos de inglés, entren encontacto directo con la realidadgastronómica española, caracterizadapor su afán de innovación, por el

cuidado de la materia prima y por laatención mediática que despierta ennumerosos países.El origen de este proyecto se sitúa en laOficina Económica y Comercial deEspaña en Copenhague. Ángela de laRosa, responsable de relacionespúblicas e imagen de la oficina, noscuenta cómo nació la idea de crearestas becas: “Todo empezó en laprimavera de 2004, a raíz de laestancia del cocinero danés Bo Bech enel restaurante La Broche, de SergiArola. Duró solo una semana, perosuficiente para que Bech encontrarainspiración para preparar la Semana deGastronomía Madrileña en elrestaurante donde trabajaba”. Así seiniciaba una peregrinación de chefs deDinamarca a diferentes templosculinarios de España, como elBulli, LaBroche o Mugaritz. “A la vista delinterés que mostraban los jóvenescocineros daneses por hacer prácticasen España y del entusiasmo que la

Productos de temporada, técnicas vanguardistas, raíces tradicionales y una filosofía de trabajo

basada en la calidad y en el intercambio de ideas. Son cuatro rasgos básicos que definen a

la alta cocina española que tanta admiración despierta entre los compañeros de profesión

de todo el mundo. Desde el pasado mes de septiembre, jóvenes cocineros de diferentes países

tienen la oportunidad de conocer las entrañas de los fogones españoles, gracias a un programa

de formación desarrollado por el Instituto Español de Comercio Exterior y un grupo de los

mejores restaurantes del país. Un mes de introducción a la cultura y gastronomía española,

más once meses de intenso trabajo junto a Juan Mari Arzak, Sergi Arola o Santi Santamaría,

entre otros, les darán las pistas suficientes para comprender este momento mágico de la

gastronomía española. Lo contamos en una nueva serie de reportajes, que comienza con una

narración de sus primeros pasos en España y se completará con dos artículos que cubrirán

el ecuador y el final de su experiencia culinaria en nuestro país. Comprobaremos los avances

e impresiones de los participantes en el programa, tanto de los cocineros extranjeros como

de sus mentores españoles que les abren las puertas de sus restaurantes durante casi un año.

FOGONESCOMPARTIDOS

Rodrigo García

Fernando Madariaga/ICEX

España, escuela de cocineros extranjeros“Hace tiempo que quería venir aEspaña con la intención de hacer unstage de uno o dos meses en unrestaurante. Lo que no me esperaba eratener la posibilidad de trabajar seismeses en el restaurante La Alquería deelBullihotel La Hacienda de Benazuza(Sanlúcar la Mayor, Sevilla) y otromedio año en elBulli (Roses, Girona) alas órdenes de Ferran Adrià”. Estaspalabras son de uno de los cocinerosmás prometedores de Dinamarca,Ronny Emborg, de 25 años de edad ysiete de ellos de experiencia laboral envarios de los mejores restaurantes delpaís, como el Geranium deCopenhague. Es más que probable queeste joven nunca olvide lo que el año2007 ha puesto al alcance de su mano.En mayo recibió el premio Cocinerodel Año en su país, y en septiembrellegaba a España para formar parte deuna aventura culinaria de altos vuelos,nada más y nada menos que junto alprincipal protagonista de la cocina de

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JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 73

from Denmark, Germany,Switzerland, the US and Japan whois participating in the first edition ofthe training program for youngforeign chefs in Spanish gastronomy.It is organized by the SpanishInstitute for Foreign Trade (ICEX) incollaboration with some of Spain’smost prestigious restaurants, all ofthem proud holders of Michelinstars, as well as the internationally-renowned pastrycook Oriol Balaguer.This pilot experience, this gem of along-term project, addresses youngchefs under 30 with at least threeyears experience in prestigiousrestaurants and a workingknowledge of English. The idea isthat they come into direct contactwith the world of Spanishgastronomy today, with itsfascination for innovation, itsinsistence on careful selection of raw

materials and its place in thelimelight.The project started out in Spain’sEconomic and Commercial Office inCopenhagen. Ángela de la Rosa, whois responsible for the office’s publicrelations and image, explains. “Backin spring 2004, the Danish chef BoBech spent a week at Sergi Arola’s LaBroche restaurant in Spain. It was abrief stay but it was sufficient toinspire him to hold a MadridGastronomy Week in his restaurantupon his return home.” Thisexperience set in motion apilgrimage of Danish chefs todifferent Spanish culinary temples,such as elBulli, La Broche andMugaritz. “The interest shown byyoung Danish cooks in such coursesand their enthusiasm for Spanishgastronomy and food products ledcommercial attaché Robert Cuñat

“I’d been hoping to come to Spain tospend one or two months in arestaurant, but I’d never dreamed ofspending six months at La Alqueríain the elBullihotel at La Hacienda deBenazuza (Sanlúcar la Mayor, Seville)and another six months in elBulli(Rosas, Girona) under Ferrán Adrià.”These were the words of one ofDenmark’s most promising youngchefs, Ronny Emborg, who is 25years old. So far he has worked forseven years in some of his country’sbest restaurants, including Geraniumin Copenhagen, but he is unlikely toforget 2007. In May he was namedChef of the Year in Denmark and inSeptember he arrived in Spain toparticipate in a top-flight culinaryadventure, precisely alongside themain protagonist of Spanish avant-garde cuisine.Ronny is one of the 15 young chefs

Seasonal produce, new wave techniques, traditional roots and a working philosophy based on

quality and shared ideas. These are four basic traits of the Spanish haute cuisine that is so widely

admired amongst cooking professionals in the rest of the world. Since last September, a group

of young chefs from a number of different countries have been getting to know what’s cooking

in Spanish kitchens, thanks to a training program set up by the Spanish Institute for Foreign

Trade together with some of Spain’s top restaurants. After a one-month introductory course on

Spanish culture and gastronomy, and 11 months of hard work alongside Juan Mari Arzak, Sergi

Arola and Santi Santamaría, among others, they should have gained plenty of insight into this

magical moment in Spanish gastronomy. We will be telling their story in a new series of articles,

starting out with their first steps in Spain, then an article at the halfway mark and another when

this culinary experience is drawing to a close. We will be watching over the progress of the

interns and reporting back with their impressions and those of the Spanish mentors who are

welcoming them into their restaurants for almost a year.

TextRodrigo García

TranslationJenny McDonald

PhotosFernando Madariaga/ICEX

Spain, a School for Foreign Chefs

Culinary CraftSHARING

06-FORMACION IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 15:07 P gina 72 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

vanguardia española.Ronny es uno de los quince jóvenescocineros, procedentes de Dinamarca,Alemania, Suiza, Estados Unidos yJapón, que participan en la primeraedición del Programa de Formación deJóvenes Profesionales Extranjeros enAlta Gastronomía Española,desarrollado por el Instituto Españolde Comercio Exterior (ICEX) encolaboración con una selección de losrestaurantes españoles másprestigiosos, todos ellos galardonadoscon estrellas del firmamento Michelin,y el obrador de Oriol Balaguer, derenombre internacional. Estaexperiencia piloto, que tiene una claravocación de continuidad, pretende quecocineros menores de 30 años, conexperiencia de al menos tres años enrestauración de prestigio y conconocimientos de inglés, entren encontacto directo con la realidadgastronómica española, caracterizadapor su afán de innovación, por el

cuidado de la materia prima y por laatención mediática que despierta ennumerosos países.El origen de este proyecto se sitúa en laOficina Económica y Comercial deEspaña en Copenhague. Ángela de laRosa, responsable de relacionespúblicas e imagen de la oficina, noscuenta cómo nació la idea de crearestas becas: “Todo empezó en laprimavera de 2004, a raíz de laestancia del cocinero danés Bo Bech enel restaurante La Broche, de SergiArola. Duró solo una semana, perosuficiente para que Bech encontrarainspiración para preparar la Semana deGastronomía Madrileña en elrestaurante donde trabajaba”. Así seiniciaba una peregrinación de chefs deDinamarca a diferentes templosculinarios de España, como elBulli, LaBroche o Mugaritz. “A la vista delinterés que mostraban los jóvenescocineros daneses por hacer prácticasen España y del entusiasmo que la

Productos de temporada, técnicas vanguardistas, raíces tradicionales y una filosofía de trabajo

basada en la calidad y en el intercambio de ideas. Son cuatro rasgos básicos que definen a

la alta cocina española que tanta admiración despierta entre los compañeros de profesión

de todo el mundo. Desde el pasado mes de septiembre, jóvenes cocineros de diferentes países

tienen la oportunidad de conocer las entrañas de los fogones españoles, gracias a un programa

de formación desarrollado por el Instituto Español de Comercio Exterior y un grupo de los

mejores restaurantes del país. Un mes de introducción a la cultura y gastronomía española,

más once meses de intenso trabajo junto a Juan Mari Arzak, Sergi Arola o Santi Santamaría,

entre otros, les darán las pistas suficientes para comprender este momento mágico de la

gastronomía española. Lo contamos en una nueva serie de reportajes, que comienza con una

narración de sus primeros pasos en España y se completará con dos artículos que cubrirán

el ecuador y el final de su experiencia culinaria en nuestro país. Comprobaremos los avances

e impresiones de los participantes en el programa, tanto de los cocineros extranjeros como

de sus mentores españoles que les abren las puertas de sus restaurantes durante casi un año.

FOGONESCOMPARTIDOS

Rodrigo García

Fernando Madariaga/ICEX

España, escuela de cocineros extranjeros“Hace tiempo que quería venir aEspaña con la intención de hacer unstage de uno o dos meses en unrestaurante. Lo que no me esperaba eratener la posibilidad de trabajar seismeses en el restaurante La Alquería deelBullihotel La Hacienda de Benazuza(Sanlúcar la Mayor, Sevilla) y otromedio año en elBulli (Roses, Girona) alas órdenes de Ferran Adrià”. Estaspalabras son de uno de los cocinerosmás prometedores de Dinamarca,Ronny Emborg, de 25 años de edad ysiete de ellos de experiencia laboral envarios de los mejores restaurantes delpaís, como el Geranium deCopenhague. Es más que probable queeste joven nunca olvide lo que el año2007 ha puesto al alcance de su mano.En mayo recibió el premio Cocinerodel Año en su país, y en septiembrellegaba a España para formar parte deuna aventura culinaria de altos vuelos,nada más y nada menos que junto alprincipal protagonista de la cocina de

FORMACION_AF.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 11:19 P gina 72

JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 73

from Denmark, Germany,Switzerland, the US and Japan whois participating in the first edition ofthe training program for youngforeign chefs in Spanish gastronomy.It is organized by the SpanishInstitute for Foreign Trade (ICEX) incollaboration with some of Spain’smost prestigious restaurants, all ofthem proud holders of Michelinstars, as well as the internationally-renowned pastrycook Oriol Balaguer.This pilot experience, this gem of along-term project, addresses youngchefs under 30 with at least threeyears experience in prestigiousrestaurants and a workingknowledge of English. The idea isthat they come into direct contactwith the world of Spanishgastronomy today, with itsfascination for innovation, itsinsistence on careful selection of raw

materials and its place in thelimelight.The project started out in Spain’sEconomic and Commercial Office inCopenhagen. Ángela de la Rosa, whois responsible for the office’s publicrelations and image, explains. “Backin spring 2004, the Danish chef BoBech spent a week at Sergi Arola’s LaBroche restaurant in Spain. It was abrief stay but it was sufficient toinspire him to hold a MadridGastronomy Week in his restaurantupon his return home.” Thisexperience set in motion apilgrimage of Danish chefs todifferent Spanish culinary temples,such as elBulli, La Broche andMugaritz. “The interest shown byyoung Danish cooks in such coursesand their enthusiasm for Spanishgastronomy and food products ledcommercial attaché Robert Cuñat

“I’d been hoping to come to Spain tospend one or two months in arestaurant, but I’d never dreamed ofspending six months at La Alqueríain the elBullihotel at La Hacienda deBenazuza (Sanlúcar la Mayor, Seville)and another six months in elBulli(Rosas, Girona) under Ferrán Adrià.”These were the words of one ofDenmark’s most promising youngchefs, Ronny Emborg, who is 25years old. So far he has worked forseven years in some of his country’sbest restaurants, including Geraniumin Copenhagen, but he is unlikely toforget 2007. In May he was namedChef of the Year in Denmark and inSeptember he arrived in Spain toparticipate in a top-flight culinaryadventure, precisely alongside themain protagonist of Spanish avant-garde cuisine.Ronny is one of the 15 young chefs

Seasonal produce, new wave techniques, traditional roots and a working philosophy based on

quality and shared ideas. These are four basic traits of the Spanish haute cuisine that is so widely

admired amongst cooking professionals in the rest of the world. Since last September, a group

of young chefs from a number of different countries have been getting to know what’s cooking

in Spanish kitchens, thanks to a training program set up by the Spanish Institute for Foreign

Trade together with some of Spain’s top restaurants. After a one-month introductory course on

Spanish culture and gastronomy, and 11 months of hard work alongside Juan Mari Arzak, Sergi

Arola and Santi Santamaría, among others, they should have gained plenty of insight into this

magical moment in Spanish gastronomy. We will be telling their story in a new series of articles,

starting out with their first steps in Spain, then an article at the halfway mark and another when

this culinary experience is drawing to a close. We will be watching over the progress of the

interns and reporting back with their impressions and those of the Spanish mentors who are

welcoming them into their restaurants for almost a year.

TextRodrigo García

TranslationJenny McDonald

PhotosFernando Madariaga/ICEX

Spain, a School for Foreign Chefs

Culinary CraftSHARING

06-FORMACION IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 15:07 P gina 72 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

gastronomía española y sus productosdespertaban entre ellos, el consejerocomercial de la Oficina, RobertoCuñat, y yo barajamos la posibilidadde presentar un proyecto parainstitucionalizar el apoyo queveníamos prestando a los cocineros enDinamarca y que sirviera para extendernuestra experiencia a otros países”,indica Ángela.“Lo bonito de este proyecto es que hasido transversal, tanto en su fase deideación y creación, así como en eldesarrollo y análisis. Están implicadoslas Oficinas Comerciales de España enel exterior, la división de Formación yla de Promoción de ProductosAgroalimentarios, y el departamentode Publicaciones Periódicas delInstituto, por sus dos décadas deexperiencia al frente de la revista SpainGourmetour”, asegura María Naranjo,directora de la División de Formacióndel ICEX. Sin embargo, no son losúnicos músicos de esta gran orquesta.“Es necesario recordar las mesasredondas que celebramos a lo largo de2006: primero en San Sebastián, concocineros vascos, y posteriormente enMadrid, con cocineros procedentes de

Un curso nadaconvencionalLos cocineros seleccionados inician suaventura culinaria con un cursointensivo de lengua española en suspaíses respectivos, con una duraciónaproximada de dos meses. Tras suaterrizaje en Madrid, y antes deincorporarse a un restaurante paratrabajar once meses, los jóvenescomienzan un auténtico proceso deinmersión en la realidad culinaria deEspaña, gracias al Curso de Formaciónen Cultura y Gastronomía Española,creado y dirigido por Sonia Ortega,que durante 20 años ocupó el puestode coordinadora editorial de SpainGourmetour. Tres semanas, querequieren un buen aporte de energía,en las que además de asistir a charlascon profesionales y mesas redondas,los cocineros participan no sólo encatas comentadas de productosespañoles como el aceite de olivavirgen extra y el vino, sino quetambién recorren, a bordo de aviones,trenes, autobuses e incluso algúnbarco, más de 4.500 km / 12.796 mi alo largo y ancho de todo el país.Un viaje con numerosas paradas entemplos de la gastronomía, comorestaurantes tradicionales yvanguardistas, mercados de abastos,pequeñas explotaciones agrarias,bodegas, escuelas de cocina…,aprovechando cada ocasión paradisfrutar de la riqueza monumental deciudades como Segovia, Toledo,Córdoba o Santiago de Compostela, yde los tesoros paisajísticos de comarcasdel País Vasco, Cataluña o La Rioja.Madrugones, cambios de hotel,degustaciones y conversaciones concocineros españoles que, lejos deagotar a los participantes, se

convierten en un acicate paramantener los ojos bien abiertos y elpaladar siempre listo paraexperimentar nuevas sensaciones.Sonia Ortega señala que “la juventudde los cocineros participantes es unagarantía de aguante físico e interés poraprender. Tienen la posibilidad de ver,entre otras cosas, el proceso deelaboración y obtención de productoscaracterísticos de la despensa española,catan vinos de diferentes zonas deproducción y conocen en persona aprotagonistas de la revoluciónespañola de los fogones”.A pesar del ajetreo y de los kilómetrospor recorrer, los chicos no se dejanvencer por el cansancio. Rene Frank,cocinero y pastelero alemán, lo dejamuy claro: “No me importa que sea uncurso tan intensivo. Si Sonia nospreguntara si queremos dejar a un ladoalguna actividad programada, lediríamos que no. Disfrutamosconociendo nuevos restaurantes,comentando entre nosotros los menús

y los detalles del servicio, y aunque seaa veces algo duro para el estómago, nopodemos quejarnos. Cuando recibí enmi correo electrónico el programa delcurso, lo primero que pensé fue queno parecía serio. Imposible conocertantos lugares, personas y restaurantesen tan poco tiempo. Ahora, que loestamos viviendo en persona, puedoasegurar que es la mejor forma deenfocarlo”. Una vez concluido estecurso, cada cocinero se incorporará alrestaurante asignado para trabajardurante once meses, hasta octubre de2008. En algunos casos dividirán suestancia en España en dos, trabajandola mitad en un restaurante y la otramitad en otro. Un ejemplo es el suizoGian Durisch, quien conocerá dosestilos muy distintos de cocinar en dosregiones españolas alejadas: empezaráen Casa Gerardo (Asturias) y concluirásu año español trabajando en Atrio,templo de la cocina de autor enExtremadura.

otras regiones españolas. En estosencuentros, además de constatar laexcelente relación de camaradería queexiste entre los cocineros de la altagastronomía española, aprovechamospara recibir impresiones y sugerenciasde estos chefs sobre el programa”.Una de las aportaciones de estosprofesionales de los fogones fue que elprograma se centrara en ofrecer estabeca a jóvenes cocineros que, a pesarde contar con contrastada experiencialaboral y formativa, pudieran ofrecerconsiderable potencial profesional,traducido a intercambio deinformación y ganas de ampliarconfines culinarios. Este punto enlazacon uno de los principales objetivos deestas becas, dar a conocer al futuro dela cocina de otros países la realidadgastronómica de España y losproductos agroalimentarios de su ofertaexportadora. Javier Serra, director deeste programa de becas, indica ademásotras metas a cumplir: “Es interesantemotivar a los restaurantes españolesmás reconocidos para que inicienplanes de internacionalización, no soloabriendo franquicias o locales fuera delpaís sino además creando servicios de

consultoría gastronómica. En estesentido, el programa favorece laconfiguración de una red de contactosinternacionales, formadas por loscocineros españoles, los jóvenesextranjeros que trabajan con ellos a lolargo de este año, las OficinasComerciales, el ICEX y las escuelas dehostelería”.Para años venideros, se está barajandola posibilidad de realizar la selecciónde los jóvenes participantes encolaboración con escuelas de hosteleríade renombre, y ampliar tanto elnúmero de plazas como los países deorigen de los cocineros. “Se trata debuscar interlocutores de prestigio quenos ofrezcan garantías necesarias parala selección de los profesionales. Abriresta vía de colaboración con escuelasde cocina o incluso con cadenashoteleras puede ser muy útil parafuturas campañas de promoción de losproductos agroalimentarios y vinosespañoles en mercados exteriores”,según nos indica Javier Serra. Una delas novedades para la próxima ediciónserá la participación de cocinerosprocedentes de la Shangri-La Academyde Pekín (China).

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74 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 75

and I to think up a method ofinstitutionalizing the support we hadbeen giving them in Denmark so thatour experience could be useful forother countries,” says Angela.“The best thing about this project isthat it has been taken up across theboard at every stage, from the initialcreation through the developmentand analysis, with involvement bythe Spanish Commercial Offices indifferent countries, the trainingdivision, the Agrifood Promotiondivision and the ICEX periodicalsdepartment based on its two decadesof experience with the magazineSpain Gourmetour,” states MaríaNaranjo, director of the ICEXtraining division. But that’s not all.“We held discussions throughout2006, first in San Sebastián withBasque chefs, then in Madrid withchefs from other parts of Spain. Andat these meetings, not only did wenote the excellent relationshipsamongst them all, but we were ableto hear their ideas and suggestionsfor the program.”

ICEX GASTRONOMY INTERNSHIP PROGRAM

TRAINING

selection of Spain’s best restaurants,they begin a process of immersion inSpanish cuisine, with a course onSpanish culture and gastronomydevised and directed by SoniaOrtega, formerly the publicationcoordinator for Spain Gourmetour.This lasts three weeks and isdifficult. Not only do the internsattend talks by professionals andparticipate in roundtable discussionsand tasting sessions on differentSpanish products including extravirgin olive oil and wine, but theyalso travel–by plane, train, bus andeven boat–over 4,500 km (2,794 mi)throughout the country.The stop-offs are at some of Spain’smain gastronomy shrines–traditionaland avant-garde restaurants, long-established food markets, farms,wineries, cooking schools–withplenty of opportunities along theway to take in the sights in citiessuch as Segovia, Toledo, Córdobaand Santiago de Compostela, as wellas some outstanding landscapes inthe Basque Country, Catalonia andLa Rioja.Early mornings, hotels, food talkwith Spanish chefs, with the goal notto exhaust the young chefs, but toinspire them to keep their eyes openand their palate always ready to tryout new sensations. Sonia Ortegasays, “They’re all young, so weexpect them to stand up to the trialsof so much travel with so much totake in. Amongst other things, they

will be seeing how certain Spanishproducts are produced, tasting winesfrom different producer regions andgetting to know some of the stars ofthe Spanish culinary revolution.”The young chefs coped admirablywith their heavy agendas. ReneFrank, a German chef and pastry-cook, was clear: “I don’t mind itbeing so intensive. If Sonia were tosuggest giving up any of the plannedactivities, we would say no. We’rereally enjoying the visits to newrestaurants, discussing the menusand the way food is served. The onlyminor problem is that sometimes it’sa bit hard on our stomachs. When Ireceived the schedule by e-mail backin Germany, my first reaction wasthat it seemed impossible to see so

many places, people and restaurants

in such a short time. But now that

we’re here, I’m quite sure this is the

best way to do it.” At the end of the

introductory course, each chef left

for the internship at the assigned

restaurant for an 11 month period,

ending in October 2008. In some

cases, the time will be divided

between two restaurants, half in one

and half in another. This is the case

for Gian Durisch from Switzerland,

who will learn two very different

styles in different regions of

Spain–first in Casa Gerardo in

Asturias in northern Spain, followed

by Atrio, a temple of signature

cuisine in Extremadura in the

southwest.

One of the contributions made bythese great names in Spanish cuisinewas that the program should focuson assisting young chefs with greatprofessional potential, keen onsharing information and expandingtheir culinary horizons. This ties inwith one of the main goals of theinternships: that of making Spain’sgastronomic reality known beyondits frontiers, in addition to its agri-food products. Javier Serra, directorof the intern program, explains theadditional goals: “It’s always good toencourage the best-known Spanishrestaurants to become moreinternational, not only by openingup franchises or branches in othercountries, but also by creatinggastronomic consultancy services.The program helps set up a networkof international contacts comprisedof Spanish chefs, the young internswho will be working with them overthe course of the year, theCommercial Offices, ICEX andculinary training schools.”For the coming years, the idea is to

select the young participants incollaboration with well-knownhospitality schools, increasing boththe number of spots in the programand the young chefs’ countries oforigin. “We hope to find prestigiouspartners that can offer the guaranteeswe need when selectingprofessionals. Such collaborationwith cooking schools or even withhotel chains could be very useful forfuture campaigns to promoteSpanish agrifood products and winesabroad,” says Javier. And the plan fornext year’s edition is to include chefsfrom the Shangri-La Academy inBeijing (China).

An unconventionalcourseThe selected trainees start out withan intensive Spanish language coursein their respective countries, lastingapproximately two months. Afterlanding in Madrid and before leavingfor the individual assignations in a

06-FORMACION IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 15:07 P gina 74 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

gastronomía española y sus productosdespertaban entre ellos, el consejerocomercial de la Oficina, RobertoCuñat, y yo barajamos la posibilidadde presentar un proyecto parainstitucionalizar el apoyo queveníamos prestando a los cocineros enDinamarca y que sirviera para extendernuestra experiencia a otros países”,indica Ángela.“Lo bonito de este proyecto es que hasido transversal, tanto en su fase deideación y creación, así como en eldesarrollo y análisis. Están implicadoslas Oficinas Comerciales de España enel exterior, la división de Formación yla de Promoción de ProductosAgroalimentarios, y el departamentode Publicaciones Periódicas delInstituto, por sus dos décadas deexperiencia al frente de la revista SpainGourmetour”, asegura María Naranjo,directora de la División de Formacióndel ICEX. Sin embargo, no son losúnicos músicos de esta gran orquesta.“Es necesario recordar las mesasredondas que celebramos a lo largo de2006: primero en San Sebastián, concocineros vascos, y posteriormente enMadrid, con cocineros procedentes de

Un curso nadaconvencionalLos cocineros seleccionados inician suaventura culinaria con un cursointensivo de lengua española en suspaíses respectivos, con una duraciónaproximada de dos meses. Tras suaterrizaje en Madrid, y antes deincorporarse a un restaurante paratrabajar once meses, los jóvenescomienzan un auténtico proceso deinmersión en la realidad culinaria deEspaña, gracias al Curso de Formaciónen Cultura y Gastronomía Española,creado y dirigido por Sonia Ortega,que durante 20 años ocupó el puestode coordinadora editorial de SpainGourmetour. Tres semanas, querequieren un buen aporte de energía,en las que además de asistir a charlascon profesionales y mesas redondas,los cocineros participan no sólo encatas comentadas de productosespañoles como el aceite de olivavirgen extra y el vino, sino quetambién recorren, a bordo de aviones,trenes, autobuses e incluso algúnbarco, más de 4.500 km / 12.796 mi alo largo y ancho de todo el país.Un viaje con numerosas paradas entemplos de la gastronomía, comorestaurantes tradicionales yvanguardistas, mercados de abastos,pequeñas explotaciones agrarias,bodegas, escuelas de cocina…,aprovechando cada ocasión paradisfrutar de la riqueza monumental deciudades como Segovia, Toledo,Córdoba o Santiago de Compostela, yde los tesoros paisajísticos de comarcasdel País Vasco, Cataluña o La Rioja.Madrugones, cambios de hotel,degustaciones y conversaciones concocineros españoles que, lejos deagotar a los participantes, se

convierten en un acicate paramantener los ojos bien abiertos y elpaladar siempre listo paraexperimentar nuevas sensaciones.Sonia Ortega señala que “la juventudde los cocineros participantes es unagarantía de aguante físico e interés poraprender. Tienen la posibilidad de ver,entre otras cosas, el proceso deelaboración y obtención de productoscaracterísticos de la despensa española,catan vinos de diferentes zonas deproducción y conocen en persona aprotagonistas de la revoluciónespañola de los fogones”.A pesar del ajetreo y de los kilómetrospor recorrer, los chicos no se dejanvencer por el cansancio. Rene Frank,cocinero y pastelero alemán, lo dejamuy claro: “No me importa que sea uncurso tan intensivo. Si Sonia nospreguntara si queremos dejar a un ladoalguna actividad programada, lediríamos que no. Disfrutamosconociendo nuevos restaurantes,comentando entre nosotros los menús

y los detalles del servicio, y aunque seaa veces algo duro para el estómago, nopodemos quejarnos. Cuando recibí enmi correo electrónico el programa delcurso, lo primero que pensé fue queno parecía serio. Imposible conocertantos lugares, personas y restaurantesen tan poco tiempo. Ahora, que loestamos viviendo en persona, puedoasegurar que es la mejor forma deenfocarlo”. Una vez concluido estecurso, cada cocinero se incorporará alrestaurante asignado para trabajardurante once meses, hasta octubre de2008. En algunos casos dividirán suestancia en España en dos, trabajandola mitad en un restaurante y la otramitad en otro. Un ejemplo es el suizoGian Durisch, quien conocerá dosestilos muy distintos de cocinar en dosregiones españolas alejadas: empezaráen Casa Gerardo (Asturias) y concluirásu año español trabajando en Atrio,templo de la cocina de autor enExtremadura.

otras regiones españolas. En estosencuentros, además de constatar laexcelente relación de camaradería queexiste entre los cocineros de la altagastronomía española, aprovechamospara recibir impresiones y sugerenciasde estos chefs sobre el programa”.Una de las aportaciones de estosprofesionales de los fogones fue que elprograma se centrara en ofrecer estabeca a jóvenes cocineros que, a pesarde contar con contrastada experiencialaboral y formativa, pudieran ofrecerconsiderable potencial profesional,traducido a intercambio deinformación y ganas de ampliarconfines culinarios. Este punto enlazacon uno de los principales objetivos deestas becas, dar a conocer al futuro dela cocina de otros países la realidadgastronómica de España y losproductos agroalimentarios de su ofertaexportadora. Javier Serra, director deeste programa de becas, indica ademásotras metas a cumplir: “Es interesantemotivar a los restaurantes españolesmás reconocidos para que inicienplanes de internacionalización, no soloabriendo franquicias o locales fuera delpaís sino además creando servicios de

consultoría gastronómica. En estesentido, el programa favorece laconfiguración de una red de contactosinternacionales, formadas por loscocineros españoles, los jóvenesextranjeros que trabajan con ellos a lolargo de este año, las OficinasComerciales, el ICEX y las escuelas dehostelería”.Para años venideros, se está barajandola posibilidad de realizar la selecciónde los jóvenes participantes encolaboración con escuelas de hosteleríade renombre, y ampliar tanto elnúmero de plazas como los países deorigen de los cocineros. “Se trata debuscar interlocutores de prestigio quenos ofrezcan garantías necesarias parala selección de los profesionales. Abriresta vía de colaboración con escuelasde cocina o incluso con cadenashoteleras puede ser muy útil parafuturas campañas de promoción de losproductos agroalimentarios y vinosespañoles en mercados exteriores”,según nos indica Javier Serra. Una delas novedades para la próxima ediciónserá la participación de cocinerosprocedentes de la Shangri-La Academyde Pekín (China).

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74 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 75

and I to think up a method ofinstitutionalizing the support we hadbeen giving them in Denmark so thatour experience could be useful forother countries,” says Angela.“The best thing about this project isthat it has been taken up across theboard at every stage, from the initialcreation through the developmentand analysis, with involvement bythe Spanish Commercial Offices indifferent countries, the trainingdivision, the Agrifood Promotiondivision and the ICEX periodicalsdepartment based on its two decadesof experience with the magazineSpain Gourmetour,” states MaríaNaranjo, director of the ICEXtraining division. But that’s not all.“We held discussions throughout2006, first in San Sebastián withBasque chefs, then in Madrid withchefs from other parts of Spain. Andat these meetings, not only did wenote the excellent relationshipsamongst them all, but we were ableto hear their ideas and suggestionsfor the program.”

ICEX GASTRONOMY INTERNSHIP PROGRAM

TRAINING

selection of Spain’s best restaurants,they begin a process of immersion inSpanish cuisine, with a course onSpanish culture and gastronomydevised and directed by SoniaOrtega, formerly the publicationcoordinator for Spain Gourmetour.This lasts three weeks and isdifficult. Not only do the internsattend talks by professionals andparticipate in roundtable discussionsand tasting sessions on differentSpanish products including extravirgin olive oil and wine, but theyalso travel–by plane, train, bus andeven boat–over 4,500 km (2,794 mi)throughout the country.The stop-offs are at some of Spain’smain gastronomy shrines–traditionaland avant-garde restaurants, long-established food markets, farms,wineries, cooking schools–withplenty of opportunities along theway to take in the sights in citiessuch as Segovia, Toledo, Córdobaand Santiago de Compostela, as wellas some outstanding landscapes inthe Basque Country, Catalonia andLa Rioja.Early mornings, hotels, food talkwith Spanish chefs, with the goal notto exhaust the young chefs, but toinspire them to keep their eyes openand their palate always ready to tryout new sensations. Sonia Ortegasays, “They’re all young, so weexpect them to stand up to the trialsof so much travel with so much totake in. Amongst other things, they

will be seeing how certain Spanishproducts are produced, tasting winesfrom different producer regions andgetting to know some of the stars ofthe Spanish culinary revolution.”The young chefs coped admirablywith their heavy agendas. ReneFrank, a German chef and pastry-cook, was clear: “I don’t mind itbeing so intensive. If Sonia were tosuggest giving up any of the plannedactivities, we would say no. We’rereally enjoying the visits to newrestaurants, discussing the menusand the way food is served. The onlyminor problem is that sometimes it’sa bit hard on our stomachs. When Ireceived the schedule by e-mail backin Germany, my first reaction wasthat it seemed impossible to see so

many places, people and restaurants

in such a short time. But now that

we’re here, I’m quite sure this is the

best way to do it.” At the end of the

introductory course, each chef left

for the internship at the assigned

restaurant for an 11 month period,

ending in October 2008. In some

cases, the time will be divided

between two restaurants, half in one

and half in another. This is the case

for Gian Durisch from Switzerland,

who will learn two very different

styles in different regions of

Spain–first in Casa Gerardo in

Asturias in northern Spain, followed

by Atrio, a temple of signature

cuisine in Extremadura in the

southwest.

One of the contributions made bythese great names in Spanish cuisinewas that the program should focuson assisting young chefs with greatprofessional potential, keen onsharing information and expandingtheir culinary horizons. This ties inwith one of the main goals of theinternships: that of making Spain’sgastronomic reality known beyondits frontiers, in addition to its agri-food products. Javier Serra, directorof the intern program, explains theadditional goals: “It’s always good toencourage the best-known Spanishrestaurants to become moreinternational, not only by openingup franchises or branches in othercountries, but also by creatinggastronomic consultancy services.The program helps set up a networkof international contacts comprisedof Spanish chefs, the young internswho will be working with them overthe course of the year, theCommercial Offices, ICEX andculinary training schools.”For the coming years, the idea is to

select the young participants incollaboration with well-knownhospitality schools, increasing boththe number of spots in the programand the young chefs’ countries oforigin. “We hope to find prestigiouspartners that can offer the guaranteeswe need when selectingprofessionals. Such collaborationwith cooking schools or even withhotel chains could be very useful forfuture campaigns to promoteSpanish agrifood products and winesabroad,” says Javier. And the plan fornext year’s edition is to include chefsfrom the Shangri-La Academy inBeijing (China).

An unconventionalcourseThe selected trainees start out withan intensive Spanish language coursein their respective countries, lastingapproximately two months. Afterlanding in Madrid and before leavingfor the individual assignations in a

06-FORMACION IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 15:07 P gina 74 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

A la vanguardia conaceite de olivaSpain Gourmetour ha queridoacompañar a estos jóvenes en varioscapítulos de su particular cuaderno deviaje para indagar en el entramado dela cocina española. Nos incorporamoscuando este curso de cultura ygastronomía española se acerca a suecuador, en una de sus breves paradasen la capital, Madrid, cuando yahabían recorrido a fondo regionescomo Castilla-La Mancha, País Vasco oLa Rioja y les quedaban todavía dossemanas más cargadas de actividades(ver recuadro pág. 79). El primercontacto con ellos fue en el epicentrode la cocina vanguardista de la ciudad,el laboratorio del restaurante La

Terraza del Casino, dirigido por elcocinero Paco Roncero. A las nueve y media de la mañanacomienza una de las sesiones que másimpacto provocaría entre los jóvenescocineros, al menos hasta esemomento del curso: una demostraciónen privado sobre las investigacionesque el equipo de Roncero ha llevado acabo en los últimos meses con el aceitede oliva virgen extra español. El grupose dividió en dos, uno para ver laspreparaciones en caliente con aceite deoliva, dirigidas por Fernando López, yotro para atender a lo que JavierAlonso les contaba sobre preparacionesen frío. Tanto Fernando como Javierson estrechos colaboradores delestudio de investigación que Ronceroha montado en torno al restaurante, y

logran captar la atención de su públicoa lo largo de las casi dos horas de suintervención. “Paco Roncero ha basadola mayor parte de sus investigacionesen el aceite de oliva, ya que para elequipo de La Terraza del Casino es elproducto español por excelencia–afirma con contundencia Fernando–.“Conocemos muy bien este productoen todos sus aspectos, desde el cultivodel olivo, a la elaboración del aceite ylas posibilidades que ofrece de cara alconcepto de cocina de nuestrorestaurante”.Miel de aceite de oliva (utilizandoglucosa, aceite de oliva virgen extramuy frío para incrementar su densidade isomalt), gominola de aceite de oliva(miel de aceite de oliva virgen extra ygelatina), sopa de aceite de oliva (con

las elaboraciones culinarias sale mal enel laboratorio?”, piensa en voz alta Nic.“Yo suelo sonreír, y a continuación,volver a intentarlo con alguna variaciónen el proceso”, contesta con rapidezFernando López, haciendo referencia alproceso de prueba-error, muy utilizadoen la cocina.Entre esferificaciones, lecitina de soja,garrofín (un estabilizante y gelificantenatural) y la incorporación del nitrógenolíquido a recetas de cocina paradesarrollar la técnica de los aires, eltiempo transcurre más rápido de lodeseado. Es hora de volver al autobús y

xantana), el famoso espagueti deaceite de oliva… Fernando lessorprende con una auténtica primicia:el aceite de oliva virgen extra a laplancha, una creación que se iba apresentar por primera vez justo al díasiguiente, en el Congreso TresCulturas, Dos Mares en el marco de laferia agroalimentaria Andalucía Sabor,en Sevilla. Los chicos se conviertenasí en privilegiados testigos de estenuevo plato... ¡y de los primeros enprobarlo!Varios de los jóvenes tomanapresuradas notas en sus cuadernos, yotros preguntan detalles técnicosacerca de la temperatura exacta de lapreparación, los decisivos ycalculados tiempos de la receta o elporqué de la transformación de lastexturas. Entre todos ellos destaca eljustificado interés de Nicolai Tram, alque le han asignado La Terraza delCasino para desarrollar su plan deformación: “Me atrae toda estaexperimentación con texturas,sabores, sustancias y aditivos que hacenen el laboratorio y que ayudan aaumentar el sentido del espectáculo enla alta cocina para sorprender alcomensal”. Tras trabajar en el servicio decocina de la Casa Real de Dinamarca yen el restaurante M/S Amerika deCopenhague, Nicolai está a punto deiniciar una nueva etapa en su carreraprofesional: “En el restaurante del queprocedo no se utilizan ingredientescomo el nitrógeno líquido o la xantana.Pero yo tenía conocimiento de estastécnicas, y cuando volvía a casa deltrabajo intentaba experimentar en mipropia cocina. Ahora resulta que voy atrabajar en una de las cocinas máscreativas del mundo, que colaboraademás con Ferran Adrià”, me comentacon una mirada desbordante decuriosidad. “¿Qué pasa cuando una de

asistir en una escuela de negocios,situada al otro lado de la ciudad, a doscharlas: una dedicada a la presentacióndel futuro Instituto Español deGastronomía, un ambicioso proyectotutelado por el Culinary Institute ofAmerica y que prevé su apertura elpróximo verano en Sigüenza(Guadalajara, Castilla-La Mancha), yotra titulada Cooking with Words, en elque el presidente de la organización delGourmand World Cookbook Award,Edouard Cointreau, les indica pautaspara la publicación de libros de cocina yuna selección de títulos sobre la

FORMACION_AF.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 11:20 P gina 76

JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 77

ICEX GASTRONOMY INTERNSHIP PROGRAM

TRAINING

On the forefrontwith olive oilSpain Gourmetour was keen to seehow things were going for theseyoung chefs on their tour a roundSpanish cuisine. We joined themhalfway through the introductorycourse on one of their short stays inthe capital when they had alreadytraveled around Castile-La Mancha,the Basque Country and La Rioja,but still had another two full weeksahead of them (see box on page 79).The first contact was at theepicenter of Madrid’s new wavecuisine, the laboratory at the LaTerraza del Casino restaurant

headed by the chef Paco Roncero.This session, starting at 9:30, was tobe one of the most exciting on thecourse, at least so far: a privatedemonstration of the research beingcarried out by Roncero’s team onSpanish extra virgin olive oil. Thegroup was divided into two, one tosee the hot preparations, led byFernando López, and another tohear from Javier Alonso about coldpreparations, in fascinatingdemonstrations lasting about twohours. Both Fernando and Javiercollaborate closely with Roncero inthe research laboratory set up on therestaurant premises. “Roncero hasbased most of his research on oliveoil because the La Terraza del Casino

team considers it to be Spain’sprincipal product,” states Fernando.“We know everything there is toknow about olive oil–from olivecultivation to oil processing and thepossibilities it offers in ourrestaurant.”Olive oil honey (using glucose, extravirgin olive oil at a very lowtemperature to increase its density,and isomalt), olive oil gum drops(extra virgin olive oil honey andgelatin), olive oil soup (with xanthangum), the famous olive oilspaghetti… Then Fernandosurprised the young chefs with thelatest scoop: grilled extra virgin oliveoil, a creation that was to make itspublic debut the very next day at the

Covering topics such asspherification, soy lecithin, locustbean gum (a stabilizer and naturalgelling agent) and the inclusion ofliquid nitrogen for the “air”technique, time passes quickly. Soonit’s back to the bus and off to abusiness school at the other end ofthe city for two talks. One ispresenting the future SpanishGastronomy Institute, an ambitiousproject supervised by the CulinaryInstitute of America and set to opennext summer in Sigüenza

‘Three cultures, two seas’ congress,part of the Andalucía Sabor agri-foodfair to be held in Seville. The internswere amongst the first to hear aboutthis dish…and to taste it!Some of the chefs were taking notes,while others asked technicalquestions such as the exacttemperature or timing, and thereason why the textures change.Nicolai Tram was especiallyinterested, as his destination wasprecisely La Terraza del Casino. “I’mfascinated by these laboratoryexperiments with textures, flavors,substances and additives. They helpincrease the spectacular side of hautecuisine so that we can surprise ourcustomers.” After working in thekitchens for the Danish RoyalHousehold and in the M/S Amerikarestaurant in Copenhagen, Nicolai isabout to enter a new stage in hiscareer. “In the restaurant I comefrom, we don’t use ingredients suchas liquid nitrogen or xanthan gum.But I had heard about thesetechniques and I had beenexperimenting at home when I gotback from work. And now it turnsout that I will be working in one ofthe world’s most creative kitchens,one that collaborates with FerránAdrià.” His expression is acombination of awe and curiosity.“So what happens when one of theseculinary preparations goes wrong inthe laboratory?” he asks Fernando.“Well, I usually just smile and thentry again, and make some sort ofchange in the process,” is the answer,pointing once again to the age-oldprocess of trial-and-error.

(Guadalajara, Castile-La Mancha),and the other is called ‘Cooking withwords’, to be given by EdouardCointreau, president of theGourmand World Cookbook Awardorganization, on the publication ofcookbooks and including a displayof titles on Spanish gastronomy forconsultation.At lunchtime, the young interns arereceived by Juan Pablo Felipe at ElChaflán, a permanent feature inMadrid food guides and theallocated restaurant for the German

06-FORMACION IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 15:07 P gina 76 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

A la vanguardia conaceite de olivaSpain Gourmetour ha queridoacompañar a estos jóvenes en varioscapítulos de su particular cuaderno deviaje para indagar en el entramado dela cocina española. Nos incorporamoscuando este curso de cultura ygastronomía española se acerca a suecuador, en una de sus breves paradasen la capital, Madrid, cuando yahabían recorrido a fondo regionescomo Castilla-La Mancha, País Vasco oLa Rioja y les quedaban todavía dossemanas más cargadas de actividades(ver recuadro pág. 79). El primercontacto con ellos fue en el epicentrode la cocina vanguardista de la ciudad,el laboratorio del restaurante La

Terraza del Casino, dirigido por elcocinero Paco Roncero. A las nueve y media de la mañanacomienza una de las sesiones que másimpacto provocaría entre los jóvenescocineros, al menos hasta esemomento del curso: una demostraciónen privado sobre las investigacionesque el equipo de Roncero ha llevado acabo en los últimos meses con el aceitede oliva virgen extra español. El grupose dividió en dos, uno para ver laspreparaciones en caliente con aceite deoliva, dirigidas por Fernando López, yotro para atender a lo que JavierAlonso les contaba sobre preparacionesen frío. Tanto Fernando como Javierson estrechos colaboradores delestudio de investigación que Ronceroha montado en torno al restaurante, y

logran captar la atención de su públicoa lo largo de las casi dos horas de suintervención. “Paco Roncero ha basadola mayor parte de sus investigacionesen el aceite de oliva, ya que para elequipo de La Terraza del Casino es elproducto español por excelencia–afirma con contundencia Fernando–.“Conocemos muy bien este productoen todos sus aspectos, desde el cultivodel olivo, a la elaboración del aceite ylas posibilidades que ofrece de cara alconcepto de cocina de nuestrorestaurante”.Miel de aceite de oliva (utilizandoglucosa, aceite de oliva virgen extramuy frío para incrementar su densidade isomalt), gominola de aceite de oliva(miel de aceite de oliva virgen extra ygelatina), sopa de aceite de oliva (con

las elaboraciones culinarias sale mal enel laboratorio?”, piensa en voz alta Nic.“Yo suelo sonreír, y a continuación,volver a intentarlo con alguna variaciónen el proceso”, contesta con rapidezFernando López, haciendo referencia alproceso de prueba-error, muy utilizadoen la cocina.Entre esferificaciones, lecitina de soja,garrofín (un estabilizante y gelificantenatural) y la incorporación del nitrógenolíquido a recetas de cocina paradesarrollar la técnica de los aires, eltiempo transcurre más rápido de lodeseado. Es hora de volver al autobús y

xantana), el famoso espagueti deaceite de oliva… Fernando lessorprende con una auténtica primicia:el aceite de oliva virgen extra a laplancha, una creación que se iba apresentar por primera vez justo al díasiguiente, en el Congreso TresCulturas, Dos Mares en el marco de laferia agroalimentaria Andalucía Sabor,en Sevilla. Los chicos se conviertenasí en privilegiados testigos de estenuevo plato... ¡y de los primeros enprobarlo!Varios de los jóvenes tomanapresuradas notas en sus cuadernos, yotros preguntan detalles técnicosacerca de la temperatura exacta de lapreparación, los decisivos ycalculados tiempos de la receta o elporqué de la transformación de lastexturas. Entre todos ellos destaca eljustificado interés de Nicolai Tram, alque le han asignado La Terraza delCasino para desarrollar su plan deformación: “Me atrae toda estaexperimentación con texturas,sabores, sustancias y aditivos que hacenen el laboratorio y que ayudan aaumentar el sentido del espectáculo enla alta cocina para sorprender alcomensal”. Tras trabajar en el servicio decocina de la Casa Real de Dinamarca yen el restaurante M/S Amerika deCopenhague, Nicolai está a punto deiniciar una nueva etapa en su carreraprofesional: “En el restaurante del queprocedo no se utilizan ingredientescomo el nitrógeno líquido o la xantana.Pero yo tenía conocimiento de estastécnicas, y cuando volvía a casa deltrabajo intentaba experimentar en mipropia cocina. Ahora resulta que voy atrabajar en una de las cocinas máscreativas del mundo, que colaboraademás con Ferran Adrià”, me comentacon una mirada desbordante decuriosidad. “¿Qué pasa cuando una de

asistir en una escuela de negocios,situada al otro lado de la ciudad, a doscharlas: una dedicada a la presentacióndel futuro Instituto Español deGastronomía, un ambicioso proyectotutelado por el Culinary Institute ofAmerica y que prevé su apertura elpróximo verano en Sigüenza(Guadalajara, Castilla-La Mancha), yotra titulada Cooking with Words, en elque el presidente de la organización delGourmand World Cookbook Award,Edouard Cointreau, les indica pautaspara la publicación de libros de cocina yuna selección de títulos sobre la

FORMACION_AF.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 11:20 P gina 76

JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 77

ICEX GASTRONOMY INTERNSHIP PROGRAM

TRAINING

On the forefrontwith olive oilSpain Gourmetour was keen to seehow things were going for theseyoung chefs on their tour a roundSpanish cuisine. We joined themhalfway through the introductorycourse on one of their short stays inthe capital when they had alreadytraveled around Castile-La Mancha,the Basque Country and La Rioja,but still had another two full weeksahead of them (see box on page 79).The first contact was at theepicenter of Madrid’s new wavecuisine, the laboratory at the LaTerraza del Casino restaurant

headed by the chef Paco Roncero.This session, starting at 9:30, was tobe one of the most exciting on thecourse, at least so far: a privatedemonstration of the research beingcarried out by Roncero’s team onSpanish extra virgin olive oil. Thegroup was divided into two, one tosee the hot preparations, led byFernando López, and another tohear from Javier Alonso about coldpreparations, in fascinatingdemonstrations lasting about twohours. Both Fernando and Javiercollaborate closely with Roncero inthe research laboratory set up on therestaurant premises. “Roncero hasbased most of his research on oliveoil because the La Terraza del Casino

team considers it to be Spain’sprincipal product,” states Fernando.“We know everything there is toknow about olive oil–from olivecultivation to oil processing and thepossibilities it offers in ourrestaurant.”Olive oil honey (using glucose, extravirgin olive oil at a very lowtemperature to increase its density,and isomalt), olive oil gum drops(extra virgin olive oil honey andgelatin), olive oil soup (with xanthangum), the famous olive oilspaghetti… Then Fernandosurprised the young chefs with thelatest scoop: grilled extra virgin oliveoil, a creation that was to make itspublic debut the very next day at the

Covering topics such asspherification, soy lecithin, locustbean gum (a stabilizer and naturalgelling agent) and the inclusion ofliquid nitrogen for the “air”technique, time passes quickly. Soonit’s back to the bus and off to abusiness school at the other end ofthe city for two talks. One ispresenting the future SpanishGastronomy Institute, an ambitiousproject supervised by the CulinaryInstitute of America and set to opennext summer in Sigüenza

‘Three cultures, two seas’ congress,part of the Andalucía Sabor agri-foodfair to be held in Seville. The internswere amongst the first to hear aboutthis dish…and to taste it!Some of the chefs were taking notes,while others asked technicalquestions such as the exacttemperature or timing, and thereason why the textures change.Nicolai Tram was especiallyinterested, as his destination wasprecisely La Terraza del Casino. “I’mfascinated by these laboratoryexperiments with textures, flavors,substances and additives. They helpincrease the spectacular side of hautecuisine so that we can surprise ourcustomers.” After working in thekitchens for the Danish RoyalHousehold and in the M/S Amerikarestaurant in Copenhagen, Nicolai isabout to enter a new stage in hiscareer. “In the restaurant I comefrom, we don’t use ingredients suchas liquid nitrogen or xanthan gum.But I had heard about thesetechniques and I had beenexperimenting at home when I gotback from work. And now it turnsout that I will be working in one ofthe world’s most creative kitchens,one that collaborates with FerránAdrià.” His expression is acombination of awe and curiosity.“So what happens when one of theseculinary preparations goes wrong inthe laboratory?” he asks Fernando.“Well, I usually just smile and thentry again, and make some sort ofchange in the process,” is the answer,pointing once again to the age-oldprocess of trial-and-error.

(Guadalajara, Castile-La Mancha),and the other is called ‘Cooking withwords’, to be given by EdouardCointreau, president of theGourmand World Cookbook Awardorganization, on the publication ofcookbooks and including a displayof titles on Spanish gastronomy forconsultation.At lunchtime, the young interns arereceived by Juan Pablo Felipe at ElChaflán, a permanent feature inMadrid food guides and theallocated restaurant for the German

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gastronomía española que puedenconsultar para ampliar susconocimientos sobre la materia.Es la hora de comer, y el cocinero JuanPablo Felipe recibe a estos jóvenes en surestaurante El Chaflán, una referenciasegura en todas las guías gastronómicasde Madrid y donde trabajará el jovenalemán Maximilian Denk. Nosotrosquedamos en vernos con ellos al díasiguiente, a 375 km / 233 mi direcciónEste y con un destino apetecible: el marMediterráneo.

Garrofón, anguilasy chufa de ValenciaValencia amanece algo nebulosa, conuna pantalla natural que, de momento,nos impide disfrutar de la intensidad yviveza de la luz levantina. Nosencontramos con el grupo decocineros justo al lado de la fastuosaCiudad de las Ciencias y las Artesdiseñada por el arquitecto e ingenieroSantiago Calatrava. De allí nos

desplazamos a realizar una visitaobligada para todos aquellosaficionados al buen comer: el MercadoCentral de Valencia.Casualidad o no, el edificio modernistadel Mercado se sitúa en la misma plazaque la también imponente Lonja deValencia, uno de los monumentos deestilo gótico civil mejor conservadosde España, con una sala interior querepresenta un palmeral, con lascolumnas helicoidales haciendo detroncos y las bóvedas adornadas por

escultóricas ramas de este árbol conamplia presencia en la zona. Enaquella Lonja tenían lugar hace siglosintercambios comerciales conproductos como la seda. Desde 1920,la actividad mercantil de la plaza seconcentra en su vecino MercadoCentral, donde se ofrecen los mejoresproductos de la tierra y el mar de estaregión.Entramos todos juntos por la puertaprincipal del Mercado pero enseguidalos jóvenes cocineros empiezan arastrear y a descubrir por su cuenta losproductos que los valencianosconsideran ya, a fuerza de verlos cadadía, elementos rutinarios de sudespensa. Unos se detienen frente a lospuestos de charcutería tradicional, condistintos tipos de chorizos o longanizasy quesos como los elaborados conleche de oveja guirra (oveja roja,autóctona de la ComunidadValenciana). Otros se sienten atraídospor un puesto de setas que muestranya ejemplares de hongos un par desemanas antes de que se inicie latemporada micológica. Pero todosatienden a una llamada de atención deSonia: “Mirad, aquí tenéis uno de los

La posibilidad de recorrer a fondo el mapa cultural y gastronómico de Españaes, junto a trabajar al lado de grandes nombres de la alta cocina española, unode los alicientes más apetecibles de estas becas de gastronomía creadas por elICEX. Durante tres semanas del mes de septiembre del pasado año, ademásde charlas y mesas redondas, los participantes realizaron catas de aceite deoliva y vinos, comieron en varios de los restaurantes que forman parte delprograma y descubrieron un amplio abanico de riqueza gastronómica regional,combinando cocinas tradicionales con otras vanguardistas. Tras aterrizar enMadrid, procedentes de sus localidades de residencia, y disfrutar de varios delos restaurantes de la capital española, el grupo visitó la ciudad de Segovia yprobó su plato más universal, el cochinillo. Dos días después descubrieron elcrisol de culturas de Toledo y su obrador Santo Tomé, cuna del tradicionalmazapán, antes de desplazarse hasta el País Vasco y La Rioja. Allí conocieronBilbao, San Sebastián, Gernika y Hondarribia, cenaron en una sociedadgastronómica y conocieron dónde y cómo se cultivan los exquisitos yvalorizados guisantes lágrima. En La Rioja el viaje giró en torno al vino, convisitas a la vanguardista bodega de Marqués de Riscal y a la centenaria BodegaLópez de Heredia. De vuelta a Madrid se les abren las puertas del laboratoriode Paco Roncero y tras el viaje a Valencia llegó el turno de Cataluña, conparadas en el Mercado de la Boquería, bares de tapas, comercios delicatessenen Barcelona y un recorrido por las espectaculares cavas de Codorniú en SantSadurní d’Anoia. Galicia les esperaba a continuación para conocer cómo secultivan los mejillones en las bateas de la ría de Arousa, una visita a laconservera Ramón Peña, una ruta turística por la monumental Santiago deCompostela y degustación de la cocina local.De un extremo norte de la península a uno sur, Andalucía. Los jóvenescocineros tuvieron ocasión de disfrutar de la riqueza artística de Córdoba,Sevilla y Jerez de la Frontera, de sus tapas y de visitas, con cata incluida, abodegas de las denominaciones de origen Montilla-Moriles y Jerez. Llegóoctubre y la hora de empezar a trabajar, pero el curso se guardó algunasorpresa más para enero de 2008: la asistencia al congreso Madrid Fusión,visitas a varias almazaras en Andalucía y un viaje a Extremadura para descubrirel ritual de la matanza del cerdo, la dehesa extremeña –donde pacen los cerdosibéricos– y la elaboración de productos como el queso de la Torta del Casar, elpimentón de la Vera o el jamón ibérico.

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chef Maximilian Denk. We arrangeto meet again the next day, 375 km(232 mi) eastwards at an appealingdestination, the Mediterranean coast.

Butter beans, eelsand tiger nutsWe wake up in Valencia to a slightlymisty morning, with a naturalscreen that dims the brightMediterranean light. We meet up

with the group next door to go tothe amazing City of Science andArts designed by the architect andengineer Santiago Calatrava, andleave for a necessary port of call foranyone interested in good food–theValencian Central Market.The modernist market buildingturns out to be located in the samesquare as the equally impressiveLonja, one of Spain’s best-preservedGothic civil buildings. Inside the

impression it gives is that of a palmgrove, with the spiraling columnsbeing the trunks and the vaultedceiling the sculptured branches ofthe palms, a tree that makes itspresence felt in many parts of thecity. For centuries, the Lonja servedas a guildhall, the place wheremerchants dealt in products such assilk. Since 1920, the commercialactivity in this square has beenfocused on the Central Market next

door, where the best produce fromthe sea and land are on display.We go in by the main door but theyoung chefs are quick to disperse, onthe trail of the products that are newto them but are everyday elements inValencian kitchens. Some of themstop at the traditional charcuteriestalls, interested in the differenttypes of chorizo and longaniza andcheeses, including those made fromGuirra ewes’ milk (a red sheep,native to the Valencian region).Others are attracted by the stall thatoffers mushrooms, before the start ofthe season. Then their attention iscalled by Sonia. “Come and see someof the essential ingredients in agenuine Valencian paella.” She refersto the three types of green beans thatare local natives–Garrofón, Ferraúraand Tavella–and should be includedwith the better-known ingredients:rice, water, saffron, chicken, rabbitand salt. One of the stallholderscracks open a bean pod to explainthe difference between the threetypes.

The possibility of getting to know the cultural and gastronomic map of Spain,not to mention working alongside some of the great names in Spanishcooking, is one of the greatest incentives of this internship program set up byICEX. Over three weeks last September, in addition to talks and roundtablediscussions, the participants attended olive oil and wine tasting sessions, atein several of the restaurants participating in the program and discovered awide range of regional gastronomy, combining traditional and innovativecuisine. After landing in Madrid and enjoying several of the capital’srestaurants, the group visited the city of Segovia to try its most universal dish,roast suckling pig. Two days later they discovered the cultural melting pot ofToledo with its Santo Tomé pastry kitchen, home of traditional marzipancandy, before traveling to the Basque Country and La Rioja. There they visitedBilbao, San Sebastián, Gernika and Hondarribia, dined in one of thegastronomic associations and saw for themselves how the exquisite, highly-acclaimed tear drop peas are farmed. In La Rioja the focus was on wine, withvisits to the stunning, brand new Marqués de Riscal winery and thecontrasting, age-old Bodega López de Heredia. Back in Madrid they wereinvited to enter Paco Roncero’s laboratory, then they moved off to Valenciaand Catalonia with stop-offs at the Mercado de la Boquería, tapas bars anddelicatessens in Barcelona and the Codorniù cava facilities in Sant Sadurníd’Anoia. Galicia, in the northwestern corner of Spain, was next on the list, tosee the mussel platforms on the Ría de Arousa and the Ramón Peña canningplant, as well as visiting the old parts of the monumental city of Santiago deCompostela and trying the local cuisine.Then they went from the northernmost part of Spain to the south. InAndalusia, the young chefs were able to enjoy the artistic treasures ofCórdoba, Seville and Jerez de la Frontera in between trying tapas andwines–tasting session included–with visits to wineries in the DO Montilla-Moriles and the DO Jerez. By then it was October and time to get down towork, but some surprises are still in store for 2008: a visit to the MadridFusion gastronomy congress, trips to several olive mills in Andalusia and aexcursion to Extremadura to experience the pig slaughtering ritual, to explorethe pasturelands where the Ibérico pigs graze on acorns and to see how localproducts are made, such as Torta del Casar cheese, Pimentón de la Vera (atype of Spanish paprika) and Ibérico ham.

T R A V E L I N G S C H O O L

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gastronomía española que puedenconsultar para ampliar susconocimientos sobre la materia.Es la hora de comer, y el cocinero JuanPablo Felipe recibe a estos jóvenes en surestaurante El Chaflán, una referenciasegura en todas las guías gastronómicasde Madrid y donde trabajará el jovenalemán Maximilian Denk. Nosotrosquedamos en vernos con ellos al díasiguiente, a 375 km / 233 mi direcciónEste y con un destino apetecible: el marMediterráneo.

Garrofón, anguilasy chufa de ValenciaValencia amanece algo nebulosa, conuna pantalla natural que, de momento,nos impide disfrutar de la intensidad yviveza de la luz levantina. Nosencontramos con el grupo decocineros justo al lado de la fastuosaCiudad de las Ciencias y las Artesdiseñada por el arquitecto e ingenieroSantiago Calatrava. De allí nos

desplazamos a realizar una visitaobligada para todos aquellosaficionados al buen comer: el MercadoCentral de Valencia.Casualidad o no, el edificio modernistadel Mercado se sitúa en la misma plazaque la también imponente Lonja deValencia, uno de los monumentos deestilo gótico civil mejor conservadosde España, con una sala interior querepresenta un palmeral, con lascolumnas helicoidales haciendo detroncos y las bóvedas adornadas por

escultóricas ramas de este árbol conamplia presencia en la zona. Enaquella Lonja tenían lugar hace siglosintercambios comerciales conproductos como la seda. Desde 1920,la actividad mercantil de la plaza seconcentra en su vecino MercadoCentral, donde se ofrecen los mejoresproductos de la tierra y el mar de estaregión.Entramos todos juntos por la puertaprincipal del Mercado pero enseguidalos jóvenes cocineros empiezan arastrear y a descubrir por su cuenta losproductos que los valencianosconsideran ya, a fuerza de verlos cadadía, elementos rutinarios de sudespensa. Unos se detienen frente a lospuestos de charcutería tradicional, condistintos tipos de chorizos o longanizasy quesos como los elaborados conleche de oveja guirra (oveja roja,autóctona de la ComunidadValenciana). Otros se sienten atraídospor un puesto de setas que muestranya ejemplares de hongos un par desemanas antes de que se inicie latemporada micológica. Pero todosatienden a una llamada de atención deSonia: “Mirad, aquí tenéis uno de los

La posibilidad de recorrer a fondo el mapa cultural y gastronómico de Españaes, junto a trabajar al lado de grandes nombres de la alta cocina española, unode los alicientes más apetecibles de estas becas de gastronomía creadas por elICEX. Durante tres semanas del mes de septiembre del pasado año, ademásde charlas y mesas redondas, los participantes realizaron catas de aceite deoliva y vinos, comieron en varios de los restaurantes que forman parte delprograma y descubrieron un amplio abanico de riqueza gastronómica regional,combinando cocinas tradicionales con otras vanguardistas. Tras aterrizar enMadrid, procedentes de sus localidades de residencia, y disfrutar de varios delos restaurantes de la capital española, el grupo visitó la ciudad de Segovia yprobó su plato más universal, el cochinillo. Dos días después descubrieron elcrisol de culturas de Toledo y su obrador Santo Tomé, cuna del tradicionalmazapán, antes de desplazarse hasta el País Vasco y La Rioja. Allí conocieronBilbao, San Sebastián, Gernika y Hondarribia, cenaron en una sociedadgastronómica y conocieron dónde y cómo se cultivan los exquisitos yvalorizados guisantes lágrima. En La Rioja el viaje giró en torno al vino, convisitas a la vanguardista bodega de Marqués de Riscal y a la centenaria BodegaLópez de Heredia. De vuelta a Madrid se les abren las puertas del laboratoriode Paco Roncero y tras el viaje a Valencia llegó el turno de Cataluña, conparadas en el Mercado de la Boquería, bares de tapas, comercios delicatessenen Barcelona y un recorrido por las espectaculares cavas de Codorniú en SantSadurní d’Anoia. Galicia les esperaba a continuación para conocer cómo secultivan los mejillones en las bateas de la ría de Arousa, una visita a laconservera Ramón Peña, una ruta turística por la monumental Santiago deCompostela y degustación de la cocina local.De un extremo norte de la península a uno sur, Andalucía. Los jóvenescocineros tuvieron ocasión de disfrutar de la riqueza artística de Córdoba,Sevilla y Jerez de la Frontera, de sus tapas y de visitas, con cata incluida, abodegas de las denominaciones de origen Montilla-Moriles y Jerez. Llegóoctubre y la hora de empezar a trabajar, pero el curso se guardó algunasorpresa más para enero de 2008: la asistencia al congreso Madrid Fusión,visitas a varias almazaras en Andalucía y un viaje a Extremadura para descubrirel ritual de la matanza del cerdo, la dehesa extremeña –donde pacen los cerdosibéricos– y la elaboración de productos como el queso de la Torta del Casar, elpimentón de la Vera o el jamón ibérico.

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chef Maximilian Denk. We arrangeto meet again the next day, 375 km(232 mi) eastwards at an appealingdestination, the Mediterranean coast.

Butter beans, eelsand tiger nutsWe wake up in Valencia to a slightlymisty morning, with a naturalscreen that dims the brightMediterranean light. We meet up

with the group next door to go tothe amazing City of Science andArts designed by the architect andengineer Santiago Calatrava, andleave for a necessary port of call foranyone interested in good food–theValencian Central Market.The modernist market buildingturns out to be located in the samesquare as the equally impressiveLonja, one of Spain’s best-preservedGothic civil buildings. Inside the

impression it gives is that of a palmgrove, with the spiraling columnsbeing the trunks and the vaultedceiling the sculptured branches ofthe palms, a tree that makes itspresence felt in many parts of thecity. For centuries, the Lonja servedas a guildhall, the place wheremerchants dealt in products such assilk. Since 1920, the commercialactivity in this square has beenfocused on the Central Market next

door, where the best produce fromthe sea and land are on display.We go in by the main door but theyoung chefs are quick to disperse, onthe trail of the products that are newto them but are everyday elements inValencian kitchens. Some of themstop at the traditional charcuteriestalls, interested in the differenttypes of chorizo and longaniza andcheeses, including those made fromGuirra ewes’ milk (a red sheep,native to the Valencian region).Others are attracted by the stall thatoffers mushrooms, before the start ofthe season. Then their attention iscalled by Sonia. “Come and see someof the essential ingredients in agenuine Valencian paella.” She refersto the three types of green beans thatare local natives–Garrofón, Ferraúraand Tavella–and should be includedwith the better-known ingredients:rice, water, saffron, chicken, rabbitand salt. One of the stallholderscracks open a bean pod to explainthe difference between the threetypes.

The possibility of getting to know the cultural and gastronomic map of Spain,not to mention working alongside some of the great names in Spanishcooking, is one of the greatest incentives of this internship program set up byICEX. Over three weeks last September, in addition to talks and roundtablediscussions, the participants attended olive oil and wine tasting sessions, atein several of the restaurants participating in the program and discovered awide range of regional gastronomy, combining traditional and innovativecuisine. After landing in Madrid and enjoying several of the capital’srestaurants, the group visited the city of Segovia to try its most universal dish,roast suckling pig. Two days later they discovered the cultural melting pot ofToledo with its Santo Tomé pastry kitchen, home of traditional marzipancandy, before traveling to the Basque Country and La Rioja. There they visitedBilbao, San Sebastián, Gernika and Hondarribia, dined in one of thegastronomic associations and saw for themselves how the exquisite, highly-acclaimed tear drop peas are farmed. In La Rioja the focus was on wine, withvisits to the stunning, brand new Marqués de Riscal winery and thecontrasting, age-old Bodega López de Heredia. Back in Madrid they wereinvited to enter Paco Roncero’s laboratory, then they moved off to Valenciaand Catalonia with stop-offs at the Mercado de la Boquería, tapas bars anddelicatessens in Barcelona and the Codorniù cava facilities in Sant Sadurníd’Anoia. Galicia, in the northwestern corner of Spain, was next on the list, tosee the mussel platforms on the Ría de Arousa and the Ramón Peña canningplant, as well as visiting the old parts of the monumental city of Santiago deCompostela and trying the local cuisine.Then they went from the northernmost part of Spain to the south. InAndalusia, the young chefs were able to enjoy the artistic treasures ofCórdoba, Seville and Jerez de la Frontera in between trying tapas andwines–tasting session included–with visits to wineries in the DO Montilla-Moriles and the DO Jerez. By then it was October and time to get down towork, but some surprises are still in store for 2008: a visit to the MadridFusion gastronomy congress, trips to several olive mills in Andalusia and aexcursion to Extremadura to experience the pig slaughtering ritual, to explorethe pasturelands where the Ibérico pigs graze on acorns and to see how localproducts are made, such as Torta del Casar cheese, Pimentón de la Vera (atype of Spanish paprika) and Ibérico ham.

T R A V E L I N G S C H O O L

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ingredientes que nunca debe faltar enuna auténtica paella valenciana”.Además de arroz, agua, azafrán, trozosde carne de pollo y de conejo y sal,son fundamentales tres tipos de judíasverdes autóctonas de Valencia, elgarrofón, la ferraúra y la tavella. Unade las tenderas abre la vaina delgarrofón para que podamos observarlas diferencias entre los tres tipos.Los integrantes de este viaje culinariono pierden oportunidad de capturarcon sus cámaras digitales escenas delmercado, como los puestos de mojamay hueva de atún, una de las salazonesmás tradicionales de la zona, o los deverduras de su fértil huerta, con eltomate valenciano (de gran tamaño,carnoso y con un intenso olor natural)como estrella. Frutas de temporada,carnes de cordero, ternera y cabrito yuno de esos puestos que no se suelenencontrar en otros mercadosespañoles: los caracoles, de variedadescomo baqueta o choveta, ingredientesde guisos, platos de arroz o recetasrurales como los caracoles conpimientos, tomate y cebolla y un toquede picante…Entramos al área dedicada a los

pescados, esencial gracias a la cercaníade un mar Mediterráneo que en lascostas valencianas pone a disposicióndel consumidor unas 130 especiesdistintas, entre las que encontramosrarezas locales como el llus (un tipo demerluza de playa). Sin olvidar lasgaleras, un marisco que durantedécadas se consideró la cigala de lospobres y que en la actualidad es unode los productos más apreciados porlos cocineros valencianos.Antes de salir del mercado, dosparadas indispensables: un puesto conunas peceras donde las anguilasmuestran su serpenteante movimiento(las anguilas all i pebre son parte delrecetario valenciano de siempre,cocidas y condimentadas con ajo,pimentón, guindilla y pimienta) y elpuesto de Vicente, presidente de laAsociación de Vendedores delMercado, donde desde hace décadasdespacha frutos secos, frutasescarchadas y encurtidos. Nos muestrala chufa desecada, un tubérculo que enEspaña sólo se cultiva en losalrededores de Valencia, y nos da unconsejo: “No podéis abandonar laciudad sin probar la horchata, cruzad

la calle y entrad en la horchatería ElCollado”. Tenemos poco tiempo, perodirigimos nuestros pasos a esteestablecimiento abierto en 1892,donde probamos, la mayoría porprimera vez, esta refrescante bebidaelaborada con chufas, agua y azúcar.De camino al autobús en el queproseguiremos el viaje los comentariosson diversos. “Es una bebidarefrescante”, “quizás recuerdademasiado a aromas a hierbas o,incluso, a vegetales como lazanahoria”… estos jóvenes examinantodo lo que se encuentran con loscinco sentidos, y desde luego el olfatoy el gusto predominan sobre el resto.María Antonia Fernández-Daza,consultora vinícola, tuvo laoportunidad de comprobarlo en la catade vinos españoles que preparó en unade las sesiones de este curso deformación: “Sólo llevaban tres días enEspaña cuando tuvo lugar la cata devinos, y a pesar de cierta timidez noperdieron detalle de todo lo que lesexplicaba”. Realizaron un recorridosensorial a través de doce vinos, desdecavas a pedro ximénez pasando porrosados, blancos y tintos de guarda.

“Un viaje vinícola por el país, de lamano de bodegas grandes y pequeñas,antiguas y modernas”. La uvatempranillo les llamó especialmente laatención, y prometieron que al final desu año en España serían capaces dedistinguir la tempranillo según su zonade producción. ¿Se acordarán de estapromesa?

Arroces para todoslos gustosSe acerca el mediodía y el viaje porValencia debe continuar. Salimos delcentro de la ciudad y nos dirigimos ala localidad de Sueca, donde seencuentra el Consejo Regulador de laDenominación de Origen Arroz deValencia. El gerente de este organismo,Santos Ruiz, nos recibe a pie de calle ynos invita a participar en un breveseminario donde se explica el origendel cultivo del arroz en esa zona(Valencia fue la primera regiónespañola donde se empezó a cultivareste producto) y, sobre todo, lasdiferencias entre el arroz de la variedadsenia y el de la variedad bomba.Ambos absorben perfectamente elsabor de los ingredientes con lo que secocina, pero el arroz bomba tiene unmejor comportamiento en el caso deque nos pasemos de tiempo en lacocción. “Los mejores cocineros y lasexpertas amas de casa prefieren el arrozsenia” –aclara Santos– y aquellos queadoramos el arroz pero no queremosarriesgarnos en la cocina nos quedamoscon el bomba”. A los cocineros se les vecómodos tocando el producto,cogiendo con la mano granos de arrozde distintas variedades, examinándolosy tal y como hace Takayuki Kikuchi,único representante japonés del grupo,llevándoselo crudo a la boca para

intentar encontrar variaciones detextura, dureza, acidez o inclusohumedad.Una de las maneras más apropiadas decatar este producto tan valenciano es através de los delicados y sabrososarroces que se preparan en CasaSalvador, restaurante de Cullera,situado a orillas de una laguna de aguadulce comunicada a pocos metros delrestaurante con el mar Mediterráneo.Son las 14:30 de la tarde y ahora,mientras nos sentamos en mesas de laterraza del local, sí podemos disfrutarde aquella famosa luz valenciana, queinspira viveza, fuerza y desparpajo. Elafamado cocinero Salvador y su familianos preparan un menú para probarsiete tipos de arroz: arroz a lavalenciana, reguerot (con patodeshuesado, ajos y alcachofas),senyoret (sepia, gambas y ajos tiernos)y arroz negro (con calamares y sutinta); y otros tres caldosos, como elarroz de rape, cigalas y setas, arroz conbogavante y arroz reguerot meloso.Todos estos platos regados con vinosblancos y tintos de la DO Valencia.Con el hambre más que saciado,algunos jóvenes comentaron que ladegustación de arroces había sidoexcesiva, y cierta pereza provocada porla agradable temperatura y el efecto delsol valenciano, Brenda Ramírez,cocinera procedente de EstadosUnidos, no puede evitar la tentación dedar un pequeño paseo por una playajunto al restaurante y meter los pies enlas templadas aguas del Mediterráneo.Regresa al percatarse de que parte delgrupo entra en las cocinas de CasaSalvador para ver de dónde salen susfamosos arroces. Minutos despuésemprendemos de nuevo el viaje haciaotra meca de la cocina valenciana, estavez en clave contemporánea.

La sorpresa deQuiqueDenia es una localidad costera situadaen el límite entre las provincias deAlicante y Valencia, en el punto de lapenínsula más cercano a la isla deIbiza. Durante los 60 minutos quetardamos en recorrer el trayecto entreCullera y Denia, Brenda me comentaque se siente afortunada “por podervivir en primera persona el momento

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Then on to photograph the stallsoffering dried salted tuna and roe,the most traditional of the local saltfish products, and the vegetables inwhich the Valencian tomato–large,fleshy and intensely aromatic–is thestar. Then there are fruit stalls andbutchers selling lamb, beef and evenkid. There’s also a product seldomseen in other Spanish markets:snails–varieties such as Baqueta andChoveta–used in stews or ricedishes. A popular Valenciancountryside recipe is snails withpeppers, tomato, onion and a touchof spice.Then we move on to the fish section,a must in any Mediterranean port,offering about 130 different species,some commonplace, others uniqueto this area such as llus, a sort ofbeach hake. We also come acrossmantis shrimp, once considered thepoor man’s shellfish, and now muchin demand amongst Valencian chefs.

There are two more stops before weleave the market. First we visit a stallwith fish tanks containing slipperyeels–eel all i pebre is a traditionalValencian dish in which the eels areboiled and flavored with garlic,pimentón (a type of paprika fromSpain), chili and pepper, and thestall run by Vicente, president of theMarket’s Stallholders Association,who has been selling dried fruit andnuts, crystallized fruit and picklesfor decades. He shows us some driedtiger nuts, a tuber grown only in theValencia area. He recommends,“While you’re here, you must be sureto try horchata. Cross over the roadto the Horchatería El Collado.”There’s not much time left but wefollow his advice and enter thisestablishment founded in 1892,where we try–many for the firsttime–this iced drink made fromcrushed tiger nuts, water and sugar.As we leave, the comments are

varied: “I find it refreshing” and“Perhaps it’s too reminiscent of grassor even vegetables such as carrots.”These young people use their fivesenses when judging but obviouslythe most hard-worked of their sensesare smell and taste. María AntoniaFernández-Daza, a wine consultantwho prepared one of the wine-tasting sessions held on the trainingcourse, reflects, “They had only beenin Spain for three days but theydidn’t miss a single detail during thetasting session.” They tried 12wines–from cavas to Pedro Ximénezand rosés, whites and aged reds. “Itwas a trip around Spain to see theproducts from large and small, oldand modern wineries.” Of specialinterest to them was the Tempranillogrape. They promised that by theend of their year in Spain they wouldbe able to distinguish a Tempranilloby its place of origin. Will they keeptheir promise?

Rice dishes tosuit all tastesTowards midday we set out forSueca, a nearby town where theRegulatory Council for the Arroz deValencia Designation of Origin islocated. The council’s manager,Santos Ruiz, meets us at the bus andinvites us to a short seminar to hearabout the start of rice cultivation inthis area (Valencia was the firstSpanish region to grow rice) andabout the differences between theSenia and Bomba varieties.Both absorb the flavor of theingredients with which they arecooked, but Bomba rice performsbetter if cooking goes on too long.“The best chefs and experthousewives prefer Senia rice,” saysSantos. “Those of us who love ricebut don’t like taking risks in thekitchen opt for Bomba.” The chefsexamine the different varieties,grasping fistfuls of rice. TakayukiKikuchi, the only representativefrom Japan in the group, tests theraw grains in his mouth to findvariations in texture, hardness,acidity and even moisture content.One of the best ways of trying thisvery Valencian product is in thedelicate, tasty rice dishes prepared atCasa Salvador, a restaurant inCullera, on the shores of a freshwater lake that links up with theMediterranean Sea just a few metersaway from the restaurant. It is 2:30pm and now, and sitting at our tableswe have time to enjoy the famous,energy-giving Valencian light.Salvador and his family prepare a

menu offering us seven different riceoptions: Valencian-style rice, reguerot(with boned duck, garlic andartichokes), senyoret (with cuttlefish,shrimp and garlic shoots), black rice(with squid and squid ink) and thenthree soupy rice dishes–rice withmonkfish, Dublin Bay prawns andmushrooms, rice with lobster andsoupy reguerot rice. All of them areserved with red and white winesfrom DO Valencia.Some of the chefs felt the meal wastoo copious. What with their fullstomachs and the effect of theValencian sun, a drowsy feeling setsin. But Brenda Ramirez from theUnited States resisted it and took abrief stroll along the beach, paddlingin the warm Mediterranean waters.She came back quickly when shesaw the group entering the kitchensto see where the famous rice disheshad been prepared. Then we set offto another Mecca of Valenciancuisine, but this time an ultra-modern one.

Quique and hissurprisesDenia is a coastal town at the borderbetween the provinces of Alicante andValencia, the closest point on theIberian Peninsula to the Balearicisland of Ibiza. During the 60-minutejourney from Cullera to Denia,Brenda told me she felt very fortunateto be seeing the “magical moment” ofSpanish gastronomy for herself. She isto be working for six months in the3-star restaurant Akelare in SanSebastián with Pedro Subijana and

another six in El Racó de Can Freixàin Barcelona with Ramón Freixà.Unlike some of her intern colleagues,Brenda confesses a great interest intraditional cuisine. “I really lovedtoday’s visit to Casa Salvador. I’mquite convinced that you need toknow a lot about traditional cookingstyles and about where productscome from before you can beinnovative.”Her compatriot Mathew Lightner, in

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ingredientes que nunca debe faltar enuna auténtica paella valenciana”.Además de arroz, agua, azafrán, trozosde carne de pollo y de conejo y sal,son fundamentales tres tipos de judíasverdes autóctonas de Valencia, elgarrofón, la ferraúra y la tavella. Unade las tenderas abre la vaina delgarrofón para que podamos observarlas diferencias entre los tres tipos.Los integrantes de este viaje culinariono pierden oportunidad de capturarcon sus cámaras digitales escenas delmercado, como los puestos de mojamay hueva de atún, una de las salazonesmás tradicionales de la zona, o los deverduras de su fértil huerta, con eltomate valenciano (de gran tamaño,carnoso y con un intenso olor natural)como estrella. Frutas de temporada,carnes de cordero, ternera y cabrito yuno de esos puestos que no se suelenencontrar en otros mercadosespañoles: los caracoles, de variedadescomo baqueta o choveta, ingredientesde guisos, platos de arroz o recetasrurales como los caracoles conpimientos, tomate y cebolla y un toquede picante…Entramos al área dedicada a los

pescados, esencial gracias a la cercaníade un mar Mediterráneo que en lascostas valencianas pone a disposicióndel consumidor unas 130 especiesdistintas, entre las que encontramosrarezas locales como el llus (un tipo demerluza de playa). Sin olvidar lasgaleras, un marisco que durantedécadas se consideró la cigala de lospobres y que en la actualidad es unode los productos más apreciados porlos cocineros valencianos.Antes de salir del mercado, dosparadas indispensables: un puesto conunas peceras donde las anguilasmuestran su serpenteante movimiento(las anguilas all i pebre son parte delrecetario valenciano de siempre,cocidas y condimentadas con ajo,pimentón, guindilla y pimienta) y elpuesto de Vicente, presidente de laAsociación de Vendedores delMercado, donde desde hace décadasdespacha frutos secos, frutasescarchadas y encurtidos. Nos muestrala chufa desecada, un tubérculo que enEspaña sólo se cultiva en losalrededores de Valencia, y nos da unconsejo: “No podéis abandonar laciudad sin probar la horchata, cruzad

la calle y entrad en la horchatería ElCollado”. Tenemos poco tiempo, perodirigimos nuestros pasos a esteestablecimiento abierto en 1892,donde probamos, la mayoría porprimera vez, esta refrescante bebidaelaborada con chufas, agua y azúcar.De camino al autobús en el queproseguiremos el viaje los comentariosson diversos. “Es una bebidarefrescante”, “quizás recuerdademasiado a aromas a hierbas o,incluso, a vegetales como lazanahoria”… estos jóvenes examinantodo lo que se encuentran con loscinco sentidos, y desde luego el olfatoy el gusto predominan sobre el resto.María Antonia Fernández-Daza,consultora vinícola, tuvo laoportunidad de comprobarlo en la catade vinos españoles que preparó en unade las sesiones de este curso deformación: “Sólo llevaban tres días enEspaña cuando tuvo lugar la cata devinos, y a pesar de cierta timidez noperdieron detalle de todo lo que lesexplicaba”. Realizaron un recorridosensorial a través de doce vinos, desdecavas a pedro ximénez pasando porrosados, blancos y tintos de guarda.

“Un viaje vinícola por el país, de lamano de bodegas grandes y pequeñas,antiguas y modernas”. La uvatempranillo les llamó especialmente laatención, y prometieron que al final desu año en España serían capaces dedistinguir la tempranillo según su zonade producción. ¿Se acordarán de estapromesa?

Arroces para todoslos gustosSe acerca el mediodía y el viaje porValencia debe continuar. Salimos delcentro de la ciudad y nos dirigimos ala localidad de Sueca, donde seencuentra el Consejo Regulador de laDenominación de Origen Arroz deValencia. El gerente de este organismo,Santos Ruiz, nos recibe a pie de calle ynos invita a participar en un breveseminario donde se explica el origendel cultivo del arroz en esa zona(Valencia fue la primera regiónespañola donde se empezó a cultivareste producto) y, sobre todo, lasdiferencias entre el arroz de la variedadsenia y el de la variedad bomba.Ambos absorben perfectamente elsabor de los ingredientes con lo que secocina, pero el arroz bomba tiene unmejor comportamiento en el caso deque nos pasemos de tiempo en lacocción. “Los mejores cocineros y lasexpertas amas de casa prefieren el arrozsenia” –aclara Santos– y aquellos queadoramos el arroz pero no queremosarriesgarnos en la cocina nos quedamoscon el bomba”. A los cocineros se les vecómodos tocando el producto,cogiendo con la mano granos de arrozde distintas variedades, examinándolosy tal y como hace Takayuki Kikuchi,único representante japonés del grupo,llevándoselo crudo a la boca para

intentar encontrar variaciones detextura, dureza, acidez o inclusohumedad.Una de las maneras más apropiadas decatar este producto tan valenciano es através de los delicados y sabrososarroces que se preparan en CasaSalvador, restaurante de Cullera,situado a orillas de una laguna de aguadulce comunicada a pocos metros delrestaurante con el mar Mediterráneo.Son las 14:30 de la tarde y ahora,mientras nos sentamos en mesas de laterraza del local, sí podemos disfrutarde aquella famosa luz valenciana, queinspira viveza, fuerza y desparpajo. Elafamado cocinero Salvador y su familianos preparan un menú para probarsiete tipos de arroz: arroz a lavalenciana, reguerot (con patodeshuesado, ajos y alcachofas),senyoret (sepia, gambas y ajos tiernos)y arroz negro (con calamares y sutinta); y otros tres caldosos, como elarroz de rape, cigalas y setas, arroz conbogavante y arroz reguerot meloso.Todos estos platos regados con vinosblancos y tintos de la DO Valencia.Con el hambre más que saciado,algunos jóvenes comentaron que ladegustación de arroces había sidoexcesiva, y cierta pereza provocada porla agradable temperatura y el efecto delsol valenciano, Brenda Ramírez,cocinera procedente de EstadosUnidos, no puede evitar la tentación dedar un pequeño paseo por una playajunto al restaurante y meter los pies enlas templadas aguas del Mediterráneo.Regresa al percatarse de que parte delgrupo entra en las cocinas de CasaSalvador para ver de dónde salen susfamosos arroces. Minutos despuésemprendemos de nuevo el viaje haciaotra meca de la cocina valenciana, estavez en clave contemporánea.

La sorpresa deQuiqueDenia es una localidad costera situadaen el límite entre las provincias deAlicante y Valencia, en el punto de lapenínsula más cercano a la isla deIbiza. Durante los 60 minutos quetardamos en recorrer el trayecto entreCullera y Denia, Brenda me comentaque se siente afortunada “por podervivir en primera persona el momento

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80 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 81

Then on to photograph the stallsoffering dried salted tuna and roe,the most traditional of the local saltfish products, and the vegetables inwhich the Valencian tomato–large,fleshy and intensely aromatic–is thestar. Then there are fruit stalls andbutchers selling lamb, beef and evenkid. There’s also a product seldomseen in other Spanish markets:snails–varieties such as Baqueta andChoveta–used in stews or ricedishes. A popular Valenciancountryside recipe is snails withpeppers, tomato, onion and a touchof spice.Then we move on to the fish section,a must in any Mediterranean port,offering about 130 different species,some commonplace, others uniqueto this area such as llus, a sort ofbeach hake. We also come acrossmantis shrimp, once considered thepoor man’s shellfish, and now muchin demand amongst Valencian chefs.

There are two more stops before weleave the market. First we visit a stallwith fish tanks containing slipperyeels–eel all i pebre is a traditionalValencian dish in which the eels areboiled and flavored with garlic,pimentón (a type of paprika fromSpain), chili and pepper, and thestall run by Vicente, president of theMarket’s Stallholders Association,who has been selling dried fruit andnuts, crystallized fruit and picklesfor decades. He shows us some driedtiger nuts, a tuber grown only in theValencia area. He recommends,“While you’re here, you must be sureto try horchata. Cross over the roadto the Horchatería El Collado.”There’s not much time left but wefollow his advice and enter thisestablishment founded in 1892,where we try–many for the firsttime–this iced drink made fromcrushed tiger nuts, water and sugar.As we leave, the comments are

varied: “I find it refreshing” and“Perhaps it’s too reminiscent of grassor even vegetables such as carrots.”These young people use their fivesenses when judging but obviouslythe most hard-worked of their sensesare smell and taste. María AntoniaFernández-Daza, a wine consultantwho prepared one of the wine-tasting sessions held on the trainingcourse, reflects, “They had only beenin Spain for three days but theydidn’t miss a single detail during thetasting session.” They tried 12wines–from cavas to Pedro Ximénezand rosés, whites and aged reds. “Itwas a trip around Spain to see theproducts from large and small, oldand modern wineries.” Of specialinterest to them was the Tempranillogrape. They promised that by theend of their year in Spain they wouldbe able to distinguish a Tempranilloby its place of origin. Will they keeptheir promise?

Rice dishes tosuit all tastesTowards midday we set out forSueca, a nearby town where theRegulatory Council for the Arroz deValencia Designation of Origin islocated. The council’s manager,Santos Ruiz, meets us at the bus andinvites us to a short seminar to hearabout the start of rice cultivation inthis area (Valencia was the firstSpanish region to grow rice) andabout the differences between theSenia and Bomba varieties.Both absorb the flavor of theingredients with which they arecooked, but Bomba rice performsbetter if cooking goes on too long.“The best chefs and experthousewives prefer Senia rice,” saysSantos. “Those of us who love ricebut don’t like taking risks in thekitchen opt for Bomba.” The chefsexamine the different varieties,grasping fistfuls of rice. TakayukiKikuchi, the only representativefrom Japan in the group, tests theraw grains in his mouth to findvariations in texture, hardness,acidity and even moisture content.One of the best ways of trying thisvery Valencian product is in thedelicate, tasty rice dishes prepared atCasa Salvador, a restaurant inCullera, on the shores of a freshwater lake that links up with theMediterranean Sea just a few metersaway from the restaurant. It is 2:30pm and now, and sitting at our tableswe have time to enjoy the famous,energy-giving Valencian light.Salvador and his family prepare a

menu offering us seven different riceoptions: Valencian-style rice, reguerot(with boned duck, garlic andartichokes), senyoret (with cuttlefish,shrimp and garlic shoots), black rice(with squid and squid ink) and thenthree soupy rice dishes–rice withmonkfish, Dublin Bay prawns andmushrooms, rice with lobster andsoupy reguerot rice. All of them areserved with red and white winesfrom DO Valencia.Some of the chefs felt the meal wastoo copious. What with their fullstomachs and the effect of theValencian sun, a drowsy feeling setsin. But Brenda Ramirez from theUnited States resisted it and took abrief stroll along the beach, paddlingin the warm Mediterranean waters.She came back quickly when shesaw the group entering the kitchensto see where the famous rice disheshad been prepared. Then we set offto another Mecca of Valenciancuisine, but this time an ultra-modern one.

Quique and hissurprisesDenia is a coastal town at the borderbetween the provinces of Alicante andValencia, the closest point on theIberian Peninsula to the Balearicisland of Ibiza. During the 60-minutejourney from Cullera to Denia,Brenda told me she felt very fortunateto be seeing the “magical moment” ofSpanish gastronomy for herself. She isto be working for six months in the3-star restaurant Akelare in SanSebastián with Pedro Subijana and

another six in El Racó de Can Freixàin Barcelona with Ramón Freixà.Unlike some of her intern colleagues,Brenda confesses a great interest intraditional cuisine. “I really lovedtoday’s visit to Casa Salvador. I’mquite convinced that you need toknow a lot about traditional cookingstyles and about where productscome from before you can beinnovative.”Her compatriot Mathew Lightner, in

ICEX GASTRONOMY INTERNSHIP PROGRAM

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mágico que vive la gastronomíaespañola”, gracias a los seis meses quetrabajará en el tres estrellas Akelarre(en San Sebastián, con Pedro Subijana)y otros seis en el barcelonés El Racód´en Freixa (con Ramón Freixà).Brenda, a diferencia de varios de suscompañeros de viaje, confiesa graninterés también por la cocinatradicional: “La visita de hoy a CasaSalvador me ha encantado. Estoyconvencida de que para llegar a haceruna cocina de vanguardia hay queconocer muy en profundidad la cocinatradicional, y saber de dónde vienenlos productos que se utilizan”.Su compatriota Mathew Lightner,sentado justo delante de Brenda en elautobús, defiende también laimportancia de la materia prima.Mathew trabajará mano a mano conAndoni Luis Aduriz, en su restauranteMugaritz (dos estrellas Michelin,Rentería, País Vasco): “Uno de losfactores que más me atraen de Andonies que su concepto de cocina esvanguardista y ecológico, buscando eldiálogo con la naturaleza y el frescoren la materia prima que selecciona”.Mathew reconoce que necesitaba, trasaños en restaurantes de California,alejarse de EE UU “y ampliarhorizontes gastronómicos”. Ningúnsitio mejor que España para lograrlo:“Este país está volcado de lleno en elcamino de la innovación y forma ya

parte de la historia mundial de lacocina. Se ha escrito y se escribirámucho sobre este momento, y cuandoyo cumpla sesenta años me acordaréde mi experiencia española y podrédecir, orgulloso, que estuve allí”.Este cocinero estadounidense quiereremarcar la importancia de que esteprograma dure un año:“Habitualmente los stages en losrestaurantes suelen durar uno o dosmeses, pero nosotros permaneceremosdurante once meses. Esto te da laoportunidad de profundizar más en eltrabajo diario y de conocer losproductos de temporada que se eligenen cada una de las cuatro estacionesdel año, con sus cambios en el paisaje,en la luz y en el propio menú delrestaurante”.Sin darnos cuenta llegamos a Denia.Tenemos dos horas para descansarantes de conocer uno de los templosde la vanguardia culinaria en Valencia,el restaurante de Quique Dacosta, ElPoblet, que en 2007 recibió susegunda estrella Michelin. Con unmenú degustación de 10 platos y trespostres, Quique muestra al grupo decocineros extranjeros algunos de losplatos que han marcado un antes y undespués en su carrera, como La gallinade los huevos de oro, La ostraGuggenheim o El bosque. Un derrochede imaginación y de inquietud por lossabores y aromas más naturales del

que toma buena cuenta AsbjØrnFrank, quien aprovecha una rápidavisita a la acristalada cocina de ElPoblet para presentarse en persona aquien será su jefe y guía culinariodurante los once siguientes meses.Minutos después Quique se acerca a lamesa en donde se encuentran sentadostodos los integrantes del grupo y lesfelicita por su participación en elprograma. No es una felicitación decompromiso, sino sincera yacompañada de una advertencia: “AEspaña venís a trabajar, y a trabajarduro”. Como duro será madrugar a lamañana siguiente, casi al alba, parabordear la costa mediterránea, rumboNorte, con un destino muy especial:elBulli y El Celler de Can Roca,magníficos ejemplos del buen hacerculinario en Cataluña. Ronny Emborg,aquel joven danés que soñaba convenir un mes a trabajar a unrestaurante español, cumplirá así unade sus ambiciones profesionales:conocer a Ferran y empezar a sentir lafilosofía “elBulli” de la que tanto haleído en Internet, libros y revistas, yque le acompañará hasta octubre de2008. ¡Buen provecho!

Rodrigo García Fernández es periodistay ha trabajado en el diario El Mundo, enLa Verdad de Murcia y Heraldo deSoria. Actualmente es redactor dewww.spaingourmetour.com

Participantes en la primera edición deestas becas ICEX de Gastronomía,ordenados por países de origen:

ALEMANIA

Maximilian DenkRestaurante de origen: Weisses Brauhaus(Munich)Restaurante asignado: El Chaflán (Madrid)y Ábac (Barcelona)

Anton GlasnerRestaurante de origen: Hotel Die Gams(Beilngries)Restaurante asignado: Café de Paris(Málaga) y La Broche (Madrid)

Rene FrankRestaurante de origen: Schwarzwaldstube(Baiersbronn)Restaurantes asignados: Obrador OriolBalaguer (Barcelona) y Akelarre (SanSebastián).

Magdalena KochRestaurante de origen: Steigenberger Hotel(Bad Kissingen)Restaurantes asignados: Las Rejas (LasPedroñeras, Cuenca) y El Bohío (Illescas,Toledo).

DINAMARCA

Mie BostlundRestaurante de origen: Café A’Porta(Copenhague)Restaurante asignado: Arzak (SanSebastián, Guipúzcoa)

Anton EffRestaurante de origen: Sortebro Kro(Odense S.)Restaurante asignado: El Racó de CanFabes (Sant Celoni, Barcelona)

Ronny EmborgRestaurante de origen: Geranium(Copenhague)Resturantes asignados: elBulli (Rosas,Girona) y La Hacienda de Benazuza(Sanlúcar la Mayor, Sevilla)

Rasmus FischerRestaurante de origen: SØllerØd-Kro(Holte)Restaurante asignado: Martín Berasategui(Lasarte, Guipúzcoa)

AsbjØrn FrankRestaurante de origen: MR (Copenhague)Restaurante asignado: El Poblet (Denia,Alicante)

Lars LundoRestaurante de origen: Prémisse(Copenhague)Restaurante asignado: El Celler de CanRoca (Girona)

Nicolai TramRestaurante de origen: M/S Amerika(Copenhague)Restaurante asignado: La Terraza delCasino (Madrid)

EE UU

Mathew LightnerRestaurante de origen: J. Taylor’s (SanDiego)Restaurante asignado: Mugaritz(Guipúzcoa)

Brenda RamírezRestaurante de origen: WindowsRestaurant (Shanghai, China)Restaurantes asignados: Akelarre (SanSebastián) y El Racó d’en Freixa(Barcelona)

JAPÓN

Takayuki KikuchiRestaurante de origen: Sant Pau (Tokio)Restaurante asignado: El Portal deEchaurren (Ezcaray, La Rioja)

SUIZA

Gian DurischRestaurante de origen: Klubhaus SwissRe (Zürich)Restaurantes asignados: Casa Gerardo(Asturias) y Atrio (Extremadura).

Más información:Javier Serra (javier.serra@icex.es)Oficinas Económicas y Comerciales delas Embajadas de España (ver Españaen el Mundo, página 146-147)

www.elpoblet.comEl Poblet – Quique Dacostawww.echaurren.comEl Portal de Echaurren – Francis Paniegowww.canfabes.comEl Racó de Can Fabes – Santi Santamaríawww.elracodenfreixa.comEl Racó d’en Freixa – Ramon Freixawww.labroche.comLa Broche – Sergi Arolawww.casinodemadrid.esLa Terraza del Casino – Paco Roncerowww.lasrejas.netLas Rejas – Manolo de la Osawww.martinberasategui.comMartin Berasategui – Martín Berasateguiwww.mugaritz.comMugaritz – Andoni Luis Adurizwww.oriolbalaguer.comObrador Oriol Balaguer – Oriol Balaguer

www.restaurantabac.comÀbac – Xavier Pellicerwww.akelarre.netAkelarre – Pedro Subijanawww.arzak.esArzak – Juan Mari y Elena Arzakwww.restauranteatrio.comAtrio – Toño Pérezwww.rcafedeparis.comCafé de París – Juan Carlos Garcíawww.casa-gerardo.comCasa Gerardo – Pedro y Marcos Moránwww.elbulli.comElbulli – Ferran Adriàwww.elbohio.comEl Bohío – Pepe Rodríguez Reywww.cellercanroca.comEl Celler de Can Roca – Joan Rocawww.elchaflan.comEl Chaflán – Juan Pablo de Felipe

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the seat in front, also talks about theimportance of the raw materials.Mathew is to work alongside AndoniLuis Aduriz in his restaurantMugaritz (two Michelin stars, inRentería in the Basque Country).“One of the things I like best aboutAndoni is the way he conceives newwave, organic cuisine, based on adialogue with nature and carefully-selected fresh ingredients.” Afterthree years in a California restaurant,Mathew acknowledges that heneeded to get away from the US and“expand his gastronomic horizons”.And there could be no better choicethan Spain. “This country is firmlyon the path of innovation and formspart of the world history of cooking.A lot has been written and will bewritten on what’s happening hereand, when I’m 60 years old, I’ll lookback on my Spanish experience andwill be proud to say I was here at thetime.”This American chef also stresses theimportance of the course duration.“Such courses usually last one or twomonths, but we will be here for 11months. This gives us theopportunity to really get involved inthe day-to-day activity of therestaurant and to get to know all the

seasonal products, to see how theychange in the landscape, in the lightand on the restaurant’s menu.”Our conversation helped to makethe trip a short one and we reachedDenia with time to rest beforeentering one of Valencia’s cutting-edge culinary venues, QuiqueDacosta’s restaurant El Poblet, whichreceived its second Michelin star in2007. With a sampler menucomprising ten dishes and threedesserts, Quique showed the foreignchefs some of the creations that sethim on the way to fame: his ‘chickenthat lays a golden egg’, ‘theGuggenheim oyster’ and ‘the forest’,in short, imagination by thetruckload and a focus on the mostnatural of flavors and aromas.AsbjØrn Frank was taking it all inand took advantage of a quick visitto the glassed-in kitchen tointroduce herself personally to theowner who is to be her boss andculinary guide over the next 11months. Then Quique came up tothe table where all the participantswere sitting and congratulated themon their admission to the internshipprogram. His words were not just aformality. They were sincere, butcame with a warning: “You’ve come

to Spain to work, to work hard.”And the hard work continued thenext morning when the group wasready at dawn to drive up theMediterranean coast towards a veryspecial destination: elBulli and ElCeller de Can Roca, magnificentexamples of the great culinary workbeing done in Catalonia. RonnyEmborg, the young Dane who haddreamt of spending a month in aSpanish restaurant, will now be seehis dream come true. He will meetFerrán and start gaining an insightinto the elBulli philosophy which hehas read so much about–on theInternet, in books and injournals–and which he himself willbe putting into practice untilOctober 2008. Enjoy!

Rodrigo García Fernández is ajournalist and has worked with the ElMundo, La Verdad de Murcia andHeraldo de Soria newspapers.Currently he works on the editorialteam of www.spaingourmetour.com.

Participants on this first edition of theICEX gastronomy internship program,in order of country of origin:

GERMANY

Maximilian DenkHome country restaurant: WeissesBrauhaus (Munich)Assignation in Spain: El Chaflán (Madrid)and Ábac (Barcelona)

Anton GlasnerHome country restaurant: Hotel Die Gams(Beilngries)Assignation in Spain: Café de Paris(Málaga) and La Broche (Madrid)

Rene FrankHome country restaurant:Schwarzwaldstube (Baiersbronn)Assignation in Spain: Obrador OriolBalaguer (Barcelona) and Akelarre (SanSebastián).

Magdalena KochHome country restaurant: SteigenbergerHotel (Bad Kissingen)Assignation in Spain: Las Rejas (LasPedroñeras, Cuenca) and El Bohío(Illescas, Toledo).

DENMARK

Mie BostlundHome country restaurant: Café A’Porta(Copenhagen)Assignation in Spain: Arzak (SanSebastián, Guipúzcoa)

T H E P I O N E E R S

Anton EffHome country restaurant: Sortebro Kro(Odense S.)Assignation in Spain: El Racó de CanFabes (Sant Celoni, Barcelona)

Ronny EmborgHome country restaurant: Geranium(Copenhagen)Assignation in Spain: elBulli (Rosas, Girona)and La Hacienda de Benazuza (Sanlúcar laMayor, Seville)

Rasmus FischerHome country restaurant: SØllerØd-Kro(Holte)Assignation in Spain: Martín Berasategui(Lasarte, Guipúzcoa)

AsbjØrn FrankHome country restaurant: MR(Copenhagen)Assignation in Spain: El Poblet (Denia,Alicante)

Lars LundoHome country restaurant: Prémisse(Copenhagen)Assignation in Spain: El Celler de CanRoca (Girona)

Nicolai TramHome country restaurant: M/S Amerika(Copenhagen)Assignation in Spain: La Terraza del Casino(Madrid)

UNITED STATES

Mathew LightnerHome country restaurant: J. Taylor’s (SanDiego)Assignation in Spain: Mugaritz(Guipúzcoa)

Brenda RamírezHome country restaurant: WindowsRestaurant (Shanghai, China)Assignation in Spain: Akelarre (SanSebastián) and El Racó d’en Freixa(Barcelona)

JAPAN

Takayuki KikuchiHome country restaurant: Sant Pau(Tokyo)Assignation in Spain: El Portal deEchaurren (Ezcaray, La Rioja)

SWITZERLAND

Gian DurischHome country restaurant: KlubhausSwiss Re (Zürich)Assignation in Spain: Casa Gerardo(Asturias) and Atrio (Extremadura).

Further information available from:Javier Serra (javier.serra@icex.es)Economic and Commercial Offices of theSpanish Embassies (page 148)

www.elpoblet.comEl Poblet – Quique Dacostawww.echaurren.comEl Portal de Echaurren – Francis Paniegowww.canfabes.comEl Racó de Can Fabes – Santi Santamaríawww.elracodenfreixa.comEl Racó d’en Freixa – Ramon Freixawww.labroche.comLa Broche – Sergi Arolawww.casinodemadrid.esLa Terraza del Casino – Paco Roncerowww.lasrejas.netLas Rejas – Manolo de la Osa

www.martinberasategui.comMartin Berasategui – Martín Berasategui

www.mugaritz.comMugaritz – Andoni Luis Aduriz

www.oriolbalaguer.comObrador Oriol Balaguer – Oriol Balaguer

www.restaurantabac.comÀbac – Xavier Pellicer

www.akelarre.netAkelarre – Pedro Subijanawww.arzak.esArzak – Juan Mari and Elena Arzakwww.restauranteatrio.comAtrio – Toño Pérezwww.rcafedeparis.comCafé de París – Juan Carlos Garcíawww.casa-gerardo.comCasa Gerardo – Pedro and Marcos Morán

www.elbulli.comElbulli – Ferran Adriàwww.elbohio.comEl Bohío – Pepe Rodríguez Reywww.cellercanroca.comEl Celler de Can Roca – Joan Rocawww.elchaflan.comEl Chaflán – Juan Pablo de Felipe

W E B S I T E S

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mágico que vive la gastronomíaespañola”, gracias a los seis meses quetrabajará en el tres estrellas Akelarre(en San Sebastián, con Pedro Subijana)y otros seis en el barcelonés El Racód´en Freixa (con Ramón Freixà).Brenda, a diferencia de varios de suscompañeros de viaje, confiesa graninterés también por la cocinatradicional: “La visita de hoy a CasaSalvador me ha encantado. Estoyconvencida de que para llegar a haceruna cocina de vanguardia hay queconocer muy en profundidad la cocinatradicional, y saber de dónde vienenlos productos que se utilizan”.Su compatriota Mathew Lightner,sentado justo delante de Brenda en elautobús, defiende también laimportancia de la materia prima.Mathew trabajará mano a mano conAndoni Luis Aduriz, en su restauranteMugaritz (dos estrellas Michelin,Rentería, País Vasco): “Uno de losfactores que más me atraen de Andonies que su concepto de cocina esvanguardista y ecológico, buscando eldiálogo con la naturaleza y el frescoren la materia prima que selecciona”.Mathew reconoce que necesitaba, trasaños en restaurantes de California,alejarse de EE UU “y ampliarhorizontes gastronómicos”. Ningúnsitio mejor que España para lograrlo:“Este país está volcado de lleno en elcamino de la innovación y forma ya

parte de la historia mundial de lacocina. Se ha escrito y se escribirámucho sobre este momento, y cuandoyo cumpla sesenta años me acordaréde mi experiencia española y podrédecir, orgulloso, que estuve allí”.Este cocinero estadounidense quiereremarcar la importancia de que esteprograma dure un año:“Habitualmente los stages en losrestaurantes suelen durar uno o dosmeses, pero nosotros permaneceremosdurante once meses. Esto te da laoportunidad de profundizar más en eltrabajo diario y de conocer losproductos de temporada que se eligenen cada una de las cuatro estacionesdel año, con sus cambios en el paisaje,en la luz y en el propio menú delrestaurante”.Sin darnos cuenta llegamos a Denia.Tenemos dos horas para descansarantes de conocer uno de los templosde la vanguardia culinaria en Valencia,el restaurante de Quique Dacosta, ElPoblet, que en 2007 recibió susegunda estrella Michelin. Con unmenú degustación de 10 platos y trespostres, Quique muestra al grupo decocineros extranjeros algunos de losplatos que han marcado un antes y undespués en su carrera, como La gallinade los huevos de oro, La ostraGuggenheim o El bosque. Un derrochede imaginación y de inquietud por lossabores y aromas más naturales del

que toma buena cuenta AsbjØrnFrank, quien aprovecha una rápidavisita a la acristalada cocina de ElPoblet para presentarse en persona aquien será su jefe y guía culinariodurante los once siguientes meses.Minutos después Quique se acerca a lamesa en donde se encuentran sentadostodos los integrantes del grupo y lesfelicita por su participación en elprograma. No es una felicitación decompromiso, sino sincera yacompañada de una advertencia: “AEspaña venís a trabajar, y a trabajarduro”. Como duro será madrugar a lamañana siguiente, casi al alba, parabordear la costa mediterránea, rumboNorte, con un destino muy especial:elBulli y El Celler de Can Roca,magníficos ejemplos del buen hacerculinario en Cataluña. Ronny Emborg,aquel joven danés que soñaba convenir un mes a trabajar a unrestaurante español, cumplirá así unade sus ambiciones profesionales:conocer a Ferran y empezar a sentir lafilosofía “elBulli” de la que tanto haleído en Internet, libros y revistas, yque le acompañará hasta octubre de2008. ¡Buen provecho!

Rodrigo García Fernández es periodistay ha trabajado en el diario El Mundo, enLa Verdad de Murcia y Heraldo deSoria. Actualmente es redactor dewww.spaingourmetour.com

Participantes en la primera edición deestas becas ICEX de Gastronomía,ordenados por países de origen:

ALEMANIA

Maximilian DenkRestaurante de origen: Weisses Brauhaus(Munich)Restaurante asignado: El Chaflán (Madrid)y Ábac (Barcelona)

Anton GlasnerRestaurante de origen: Hotel Die Gams(Beilngries)Restaurante asignado: Café de Paris(Málaga) y La Broche (Madrid)

Rene FrankRestaurante de origen: Schwarzwaldstube(Baiersbronn)Restaurantes asignados: Obrador OriolBalaguer (Barcelona) y Akelarre (SanSebastián).

Magdalena KochRestaurante de origen: Steigenberger Hotel(Bad Kissingen)Restaurantes asignados: Las Rejas (LasPedroñeras, Cuenca) y El Bohío (Illescas,Toledo).

DINAMARCA

Mie BostlundRestaurante de origen: Café A’Porta(Copenhague)Restaurante asignado: Arzak (SanSebastián, Guipúzcoa)

Anton EffRestaurante de origen: Sortebro Kro(Odense S.)Restaurante asignado: El Racó de CanFabes (Sant Celoni, Barcelona)

Ronny EmborgRestaurante de origen: Geranium(Copenhague)Resturantes asignados: elBulli (Rosas,Girona) y La Hacienda de Benazuza(Sanlúcar la Mayor, Sevilla)

Rasmus FischerRestaurante de origen: SØllerØd-Kro(Holte)Restaurante asignado: Martín Berasategui(Lasarte, Guipúzcoa)

AsbjØrn FrankRestaurante de origen: MR (Copenhague)Restaurante asignado: El Poblet (Denia,Alicante)

Lars LundoRestaurante de origen: Prémisse(Copenhague)Restaurante asignado: El Celler de CanRoca (Girona)

Nicolai TramRestaurante de origen: M/S Amerika(Copenhague)Restaurante asignado: La Terraza delCasino (Madrid)

EE UU

Mathew LightnerRestaurante de origen: J. Taylor’s (SanDiego)Restaurante asignado: Mugaritz(Guipúzcoa)

Brenda RamírezRestaurante de origen: WindowsRestaurant (Shanghai, China)Restaurantes asignados: Akelarre (SanSebastián) y El Racó d’en Freixa(Barcelona)

JAPÓN

Takayuki KikuchiRestaurante de origen: Sant Pau (Tokio)Restaurante asignado: El Portal deEchaurren (Ezcaray, La Rioja)

SUIZA

Gian DurischRestaurante de origen: Klubhaus SwissRe (Zürich)Restaurantes asignados: Casa Gerardo(Asturias) y Atrio (Extremadura).

Más información:Javier Serra (javier.serra@icex.es)Oficinas Económicas y Comerciales delas Embajadas de España (ver Españaen el Mundo, página 146-147)

www.elpoblet.comEl Poblet – Quique Dacostawww.echaurren.comEl Portal de Echaurren – Francis Paniegowww.canfabes.comEl Racó de Can Fabes – Santi Santamaríawww.elracodenfreixa.comEl Racó d’en Freixa – Ramon Freixawww.labroche.comLa Broche – Sergi Arolawww.casinodemadrid.esLa Terraza del Casino – Paco Roncerowww.lasrejas.netLas Rejas – Manolo de la Osawww.martinberasategui.comMartin Berasategui – Martín Berasateguiwww.mugaritz.comMugaritz – Andoni Luis Adurizwww.oriolbalaguer.comObrador Oriol Balaguer – Oriol Balaguer

www.restaurantabac.comÀbac – Xavier Pellicerwww.akelarre.netAkelarre – Pedro Subijanawww.arzak.esArzak – Juan Mari y Elena Arzakwww.restauranteatrio.comAtrio – Toño Pérezwww.rcafedeparis.comCafé de París – Juan Carlos Garcíawww.casa-gerardo.comCasa Gerardo – Pedro y Marcos Moránwww.elbulli.comElbulli – Ferran Adriàwww.elbohio.comEl Bohío – Pepe Rodríguez Reywww.cellercanroca.comEl Celler de Can Roca – Joan Rocawww.elchaflan.comEl Chaflán – Juan Pablo de Felipe

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the seat in front, also talks about theimportance of the raw materials.Mathew is to work alongside AndoniLuis Aduriz in his restaurantMugaritz (two Michelin stars, inRentería in the Basque Country).“One of the things I like best aboutAndoni is the way he conceives newwave, organic cuisine, based on adialogue with nature and carefully-selected fresh ingredients.” Afterthree years in a California restaurant,Mathew acknowledges that heneeded to get away from the US and“expand his gastronomic horizons”.And there could be no better choicethan Spain. “This country is firmlyon the path of innovation and formspart of the world history of cooking.A lot has been written and will bewritten on what’s happening hereand, when I’m 60 years old, I’ll lookback on my Spanish experience andwill be proud to say I was here at thetime.”This American chef also stresses theimportance of the course duration.“Such courses usually last one or twomonths, but we will be here for 11months. This gives us theopportunity to really get involved inthe day-to-day activity of therestaurant and to get to know all the

seasonal products, to see how theychange in the landscape, in the lightand on the restaurant’s menu.”Our conversation helped to makethe trip a short one and we reachedDenia with time to rest beforeentering one of Valencia’s cutting-edge culinary venues, QuiqueDacosta’s restaurant El Poblet, whichreceived its second Michelin star in2007. With a sampler menucomprising ten dishes and threedesserts, Quique showed the foreignchefs some of the creations that sethim on the way to fame: his ‘chickenthat lays a golden egg’, ‘theGuggenheim oyster’ and ‘the forest’,in short, imagination by thetruckload and a focus on the mostnatural of flavors and aromas.AsbjØrn Frank was taking it all inand took advantage of a quick visitto the glassed-in kitchen tointroduce herself personally to theowner who is to be her boss andculinary guide over the next 11months. Then Quique came up tothe table where all the participantswere sitting and congratulated themon their admission to the internshipprogram. His words were not just aformality. They were sincere, butcame with a warning: “You’ve come

to Spain to work, to work hard.”And the hard work continued thenext morning when the group wasready at dawn to drive up theMediterranean coast towards a veryspecial destination: elBulli and ElCeller de Can Roca, magnificentexamples of the great culinary workbeing done in Catalonia. RonnyEmborg, the young Dane who haddreamt of spending a month in aSpanish restaurant, will now be seehis dream come true. He will meetFerrán and start gaining an insightinto the elBulli philosophy which hehas read so much about–on theInternet, in books and injournals–and which he himself willbe putting into practice untilOctober 2008. Enjoy!

Rodrigo García Fernández is ajournalist and has worked with the ElMundo, La Verdad de Murcia andHeraldo de Soria newspapers.Currently he works on the editorialteam of www.spaingourmetour.com.

Participants on this first edition of theICEX gastronomy internship program,in order of country of origin:

GERMANY

Maximilian DenkHome country restaurant: WeissesBrauhaus (Munich)Assignation in Spain: El Chaflán (Madrid)and Ábac (Barcelona)

Anton GlasnerHome country restaurant: Hotel Die Gams(Beilngries)Assignation in Spain: Café de Paris(Málaga) and La Broche (Madrid)

Rene FrankHome country restaurant:Schwarzwaldstube (Baiersbronn)Assignation in Spain: Obrador OriolBalaguer (Barcelona) and Akelarre (SanSebastián).

Magdalena KochHome country restaurant: SteigenbergerHotel (Bad Kissingen)Assignation in Spain: Las Rejas (LasPedroñeras, Cuenca) and El Bohío(Illescas, Toledo).

DENMARK

Mie BostlundHome country restaurant: Café A’Porta(Copenhagen)Assignation in Spain: Arzak (SanSebastián, Guipúzcoa)

T H E P I O N E E R S

Anton EffHome country restaurant: Sortebro Kro(Odense S.)Assignation in Spain: El Racó de CanFabes (Sant Celoni, Barcelona)

Ronny EmborgHome country restaurant: Geranium(Copenhagen)Assignation in Spain: elBulli (Rosas, Girona)and La Hacienda de Benazuza (Sanlúcar laMayor, Seville)

Rasmus FischerHome country restaurant: SØllerØd-Kro(Holte)Assignation in Spain: Martín Berasategui(Lasarte, Guipúzcoa)

AsbjØrn FrankHome country restaurant: MR(Copenhagen)Assignation in Spain: El Poblet (Denia,Alicante)

Lars LundoHome country restaurant: Prémisse(Copenhagen)Assignation in Spain: El Celler de CanRoca (Girona)

Nicolai TramHome country restaurant: M/S Amerika(Copenhagen)Assignation in Spain: La Terraza del Casino(Madrid)

UNITED STATES

Mathew LightnerHome country restaurant: J. Taylor’s (SanDiego)Assignation in Spain: Mugaritz(Guipúzcoa)

Brenda RamírezHome country restaurant: WindowsRestaurant (Shanghai, China)Assignation in Spain: Akelarre (SanSebastián) and El Racó d’en Freixa(Barcelona)

JAPAN

Takayuki KikuchiHome country restaurant: Sant Pau(Tokyo)Assignation in Spain: El Portal deEchaurren (Ezcaray, La Rioja)

SWITZERLAND

Gian DurischHome country restaurant: KlubhausSwiss Re (Zürich)Assignation in Spain: Casa Gerardo(Asturias) and Atrio (Extremadura).

Further information available from:Javier Serra (javier.serra@icex.es)Economic and Commercial Offices of theSpanish Embassies (page 148)

www.elpoblet.comEl Poblet – Quique Dacostawww.echaurren.comEl Portal de Echaurren – Francis Paniegowww.canfabes.comEl Racó de Can Fabes – Santi Santamaríawww.elracodenfreixa.comEl Racó d’en Freixa – Ramon Freixawww.labroche.comLa Broche – Sergi Arolawww.casinodemadrid.esLa Terraza del Casino – Paco Roncerowww.lasrejas.netLas Rejas – Manolo de la Osa

www.martinberasategui.comMartin Berasategui – Martín Berasategui

www.mugaritz.comMugaritz – Andoni Luis Aduriz

www.oriolbalaguer.comObrador Oriol Balaguer – Oriol Balaguer

www.restaurantabac.comÀbac – Xavier Pellicer

www.akelarre.netAkelarre – Pedro Subijanawww.arzak.esArzak – Juan Mari and Elena Arzakwww.restauranteatrio.comAtrio – Toño Pérezwww.rcafedeparis.comCafé de París – Juan Carlos Garcíawww.casa-gerardo.comCasa Gerardo – Pedro and Marcos Morán

www.elbulli.comElbulli – Ferran Adriàwww.elbohio.comEl Bohío – Pepe Rodríguez Reywww.cellercanroca.comEl Celler de Can Roca – Joan Rocawww.elchaflan.comEl Chaflán – Juan Pablo de Felipe

W E B S I T E S

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Tradition, history, personality, cordiality, culture, gastronomy and flavor are some of the offerings made

by Zaragoza to its visitors in the run-up to the Zaragoza 2008 International Exhibition, which has

water and sustainable development as its main themes. From its privileged location, at a crossroads

on the Ebro River, this city looks towards the future with energy and determination, revealing a whole

universe of sensations for visitors to experience in the company of the best possible hostess: gastronomy.

A stroll round the city, sip by sip and bite by bite, is a unique experience and a long-established custom

for the locals in the capital city of Aragón in ther quest to unravel its secrets. All it requires is a relaxed

attitude, pleasant company and a willingness to enjoy the hospitality offered in every corner.

SECRET STORETasting tapas in Zaragoza

07-TAPAS ZARAGOZA IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 16:09 P gina 84 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

TAPAS ZARAGOZA_AF II.qxd 24/11/07 08:13 Página 84

Tradition, history, personality, cordiality, culture, gastronomy and flavor are some of the offerings made

by Zaragoza to its visitors in the run-up to the Zaragoza 2008 International Exhibition, which has

water and sustainable development as its main themes. From its privileged location, at a crossroads

on the Ebro River, this city looks towards the future with energy and determination, revealing a whole

universe of sensations for visitors to experience in the company of the best possible hostess: gastronomy.

A stroll round the city, sip by sip and bite by bite, is a unique experience and a long-established custom

for the locals in the capital city of Aragón in ther quest to unravel its secrets. All it requires is a relaxed

attitude, pleasant company and a willingness to enjoy the hospitality offered in every corner.

SECRET STORETasting tapas in Zaragoza

07-TAPAS ZARAGOZA IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 16:09 P gina 84 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

El tapeo en Zaragoza representa una delas costumbres gastronómicasinevitables. Desde que, según latradición popular más consensuada, elmonarca Alfonso X el Sabio (1221-1284) dispuso que en los mesones deCastilla se sirviese la bebidaacompañada de algo para comer, laevolución de los placeresgastronómicos en miniatura no hacesado de ganar en sofisticación.En la colección editada por Ibercaja,¡Aquí… Zaragoza!, escrita por JoséBlasco Ijazo, encontramos diferentesnoticias que nos ayudan a pensar quehacia 1850 existían en Zaragoza unosestablecimientos llamados botilleríasen los que el público buscaba cómodorefugio. Eran tiendas en las que sehacía aromático café en pucheros y sevendían bebidas alcohólicas heladas.Dice José Blasco Ijazo: “Dadas las callesestrechas en las que se hallabansituadas, ofrecían una sombríaintimidad, iluminada la estancia consus candiles multipabilos que dejabancontemplar numerosas cornucopiasornamentales. Se servían bebidas denombres hiperbólicos y apetitososartículos que constituían una deliciapara los concurrentes. Los vasos que seempleaban eran de recio vidrio y losservidores no empleaban bandejas,sino azafates y tabaques, entre cuyosmimbres se exhibían los botellines dediferentes licores”. Así, parece ser quelas botillerías eran lugares un tantosombríos y retirados de los habitualescircuitos. Se calcula que por aquelentonces habría unas diez botilleríaspero, según cuentan, tenían los díascontados, pues una nueva modalidadde establecimiento se impondría enpoco tiempo: los cafés.Los cafés constituyeron verdaderoscentros de reunión, de descanso y deasueto, donde se charlaba con losamigos. Al no haber salas de cine, quellegarían en el año 1905, y en unaépoca en la que la radio no existía, elcafé constituía el lugar ideal para la

comunicación entre las gentes. Loscafés en Zaragoza llegaron a formarparte del paisaje ciudadano, totalmenteintegrados en el entorno, noentendiéndose la ciudad sin estoslocales que, en ocasiones, llegaron aser muy grandes. Los había conorquestas, con varias salas de baile almismo tiempo, con grandes jardinesen los que se servían ricas bebidas, yhasta con picadero de caballos.Ciertamente asombroso. En algunosescritos hemos leído que a la Zaragozade la época se la conoció como laciudad de los cafés.Hacia el año 1930 se registra unainvasión de bares modernos ycervecerías muy céntricas, lo que hacelanguidecer la vida de los caféspropiamente dichos. Tanto es así queel más famoso de todos ellos, el GranCafé Ambos Mundos, cerró sus puertasel 2 de septiembre de 1955. En unlibrito titulado Tapas y aperitivos,escrito por José Sarrau hacia el primercuarto del siglo XX, el autor establece

la diferencia entre bares, colmados ytabernas. En los tres asegura que ya sevendían tapas y colocaba al bar comoel más elegante de los tresestablecimientos.Las tascas, por su parte, combinaban laventa de los vinos y licores a granelcon el servicio en las mesas. Las prisasde la vida más moderna no hacíanposible ya la disertación tranquila enlos cafés y había que buscar opcionesmás rápidas. Se empieza a alternar, lagente comienza a comer de pie y lasconversaciones se hacen delante deuna barra. Y en estas barras empiezana surgir pequeños bocados de comidapara acompañar los vasos de vino:había nacido la banderilla, tapa opincho. Estas primeras tapas eran, aligual que en otras ciudades españolas,rodajas o lonchas de productoscurados, encurtidos, olivas, anchoas,vinagretas en general y aquello que,por vivir en tiempo de escasez –eranlos años treinta–, no costaba dinero,sólo el tiempo de cogerlos (caracoles,setas y otros productos).Pasaron los años, la costumbre seasentó y el público demandaba másvariedad, de manera que había queincluir nuevas alternativas para lospaladares de las primeras cuadrillasque, también en Zaragoza, iban devinos. Y hasta 1951-1952 las tapassiguen siendo, mayoritariamente frías,aunque ya más evolucionadas conrespecto a las primeras, que eran mássencillas: de escabeche o de pepinillo,aceituna y anchoa. Así, se comienzan aencontrar mejillones con tomate,huevos duros rellenos, platos dequesos variados y pimientos picantes.También surge otra alternativa como elhígado con ajo, las manitas de cordero,las madejas (intestino de corderotrenzado), las gambas cocidas, lassardinas y, por supuesto, la tortilla conpatata (no “de patata”, pues la tortillasiempre es “de huevo” y con algo, biensea patata, chorizo o el alimento que sequiera incluir) que acompaña al bar

desde el inicio de su andadura.Pero al comienzo de la década de loscincuenta aparece un nuevo invento: lafreidora, que supone un avancecualitativo e importante para los bares.Desde entonces la evolución delpincho o tapa fue constante ypermanente y, en la actualidad, losfritos avanzan por senderos de éxito.

Tapear, un rito conprotocoloEn los años cincuenta, definitivamente,la costumbre del tapeo está plenamenteinstaurada en la ciudad, lo que favoreceel desarrollo de una nueva forma devisitar los locales: callejear por diversoslocales para descubrir la cocina enpequeño formato. Es la esencia mismadel arte de tapeo tal y como hoy loconocemos.Desde entonces hasta hoy, la tradiciónno ha dejado de evolucionar. En laactualidad, el tapeo en Zaragoza

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86 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 87

Tasting tapas is a must in Zaragoza.This gastronomic customdeveloped, or so the story goes, as aresult of a ruling by Alphonse X theWise (1221-1284) that the inns ofCastile should offer something toeat when serving drinks. Ever since,these miniature gastronomicpleasures have never ceased toevolve in taste and sophistication.In the collection published byIbercaja, ¡Aquí...Zaragoza!, writtenby José Blasco Ijazo, we find severalreferences to what in the mid-19th

century were known as botillerías or“bottle stores” in Zaragoza, in whichpatrons sought refuge. These werestores in which aromatic, brewedcoffee was served alongside icedalcoholic drinks. The author writes,“The streets were narrow, affordingshadows and seclusion and lit by oillamps with multiple wicks that castlight on ornamental cornucopias.Drinks with hyperbolical names andtasty tidbits charmed the patrons.The glasses were made of thick glassand, instead of trays, the waitersused cane baskets to hold thebottles of different liqueurs”. Theimpression is one of rather somberplaces, away from the usual circuits.It is estimated that about ten suchstores existed at that time but notfor long, because a new fashion wasto replace them–that of cafés.Cafés met the need for real meetingpoints, places for relaxation andcamaraderie. The first cinemaopened in 1905 and radio did notyet exist, so cafés became the bestplace to meet up with friends. Thecafés in Zaragoza soon formed anessential part of the city landscape.This city was inconceivable withoutits cafés, some of which were so largethat they had orchestras, with several

dance floors and large gardens wheredrinks were served, and some evenhad horse riding circuits. Today thisseems amazing. Some writings tell usthat Zaragoza was known at the timeas the city of cafés.Then, in about 1930, the city centerstarted to be invaded by modernbars and taverns and life in the caféslanguished. The most famous ofthem all, the Gran Café AmbosMundos, closed down on September2nd, 1955. In a book entitled Tapas yaperitivos written by José Sarrau inthe first quarter of the 20th century,the author distinguishes between thedifferent types of bars and theirvarying nomenclature–bar, colmado,taberna–but is clear that tapas weresold in all of them, and the bar wasconsidered to be the most elegant ofthe three.Then there were the tascas that

served wines and liqueurs to beconsumed at tables or bought inbulk. The bustle of modern life haddone away with relaxedconversation and people wereinterested in faster options. Theypreferred to eat while standing andtalking at the bar. And that waswhen the bars started to offer smallmorsels of food to accompany theglasses of wine–on sticks, on breador in small dishes. As in other cities,these early tapas were slices ofcured meat products, pickles,olives, anchovies, vinaigrettes ingeneral and whatever could besourced locally costing no money,just time, such as snails,mushrooms, etc. It was, after all,the grim 1930s.The years went by and the customtook root. People soon demandedmore variety so new options had tobe found. By the early 50s, tapaswere becoming more interestingalthough they were still mostlycold–pickles, mussels in tomatosauce, stuffed hard-boiled eggs,selections of cheese and spicypeppers. Other alternativesincluded liver with garlic, lambs’trotters, madejas (plaited lambs’intestine), cooked shrimp, sardinesand the ubiquitous, classic Spanishtortilla (potato omelette).But then a new inventionappeared–the deep fryer–openingup a whole new repertoire for bars.Things changed drastically and,ever since, tapas have constantlybeen developing, going on toinclude excellent fried foods.

The tapas ritualSo, by the 1950s, the tapas customformed part of Zaragozan life andthis led to a new way of

drinking–trailing from bar to bar todiscover each one’s small edibleofferings, the essence of tapas as weknow them today.Going out for a few drinks andtapas is a healthy habit and one thatis becoming increasingly popular.There are certain areas of Zaragozathat are considered a must fordiscovering small-scale culinaryversatility, the practical applicationof Aragonese and Zaragozan cuisinein small portions. But it is not just amatter of gastronomy. It is apleasurable way of passing the time,so it must not be done in a hurry.The idea is to stroll from one bar toanother, most of them in the mostemblematic and attractive parts ofthe old city, in the company ofgroups of friends and family, alwayswilling to participate in theconversation which is necessarilygood-humored. The trick for

TEXTJUAN BARBACIL

TRANSLATIONJENNY MCDONALD

PHOTOSFERNANDO MADARIAGA/ICEX

07-TAPAS ZARAGOZA IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 16:09 P gina 86 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

El tapeo en Zaragoza representa una delas costumbres gastronómicasinevitables. Desde que, según latradición popular más consensuada, elmonarca Alfonso X el Sabio (1221-1284) dispuso que en los mesones deCastilla se sirviese la bebidaacompañada de algo para comer, laevolución de los placeresgastronómicos en miniatura no hacesado de ganar en sofisticación.En la colección editada por Ibercaja,¡Aquí… Zaragoza!, escrita por JoséBlasco Ijazo, encontramos diferentesnoticias que nos ayudan a pensar quehacia 1850 existían en Zaragoza unosestablecimientos llamados botilleríasen los que el público buscaba cómodorefugio. Eran tiendas en las que sehacía aromático café en pucheros y sevendían bebidas alcohólicas heladas.Dice José Blasco Ijazo: “Dadas las callesestrechas en las que se hallabansituadas, ofrecían una sombríaintimidad, iluminada la estancia consus candiles multipabilos que dejabancontemplar numerosas cornucopiasornamentales. Se servían bebidas denombres hiperbólicos y apetitososartículos que constituían una deliciapara los concurrentes. Los vasos que seempleaban eran de recio vidrio y losservidores no empleaban bandejas,sino azafates y tabaques, entre cuyosmimbres se exhibían los botellines dediferentes licores”. Así, parece ser quelas botillerías eran lugares un tantosombríos y retirados de los habitualescircuitos. Se calcula que por aquelentonces habría unas diez botilleríaspero, según cuentan, tenían los díascontados, pues una nueva modalidadde establecimiento se impondría enpoco tiempo: los cafés.Los cafés constituyeron verdaderoscentros de reunión, de descanso y deasueto, donde se charlaba con losamigos. Al no haber salas de cine, quellegarían en el año 1905, y en unaépoca en la que la radio no existía, elcafé constituía el lugar ideal para la

comunicación entre las gentes. Loscafés en Zaragoza llegaron a formarparte del paisaje ciudadano, totalmenteintegrados en el entorno, noentendiéndose la ciudad sin estoslocales que, en ocasiones, llegaron aser muy grandes. Los había conorquestas, con varias salas de baile almismo tiempo, con grandes jardinesen los que se servían ricas bebidas, yhasta con picadero de caballos.Ciertamente asombroso. En algunosescritos hemos leído que a la Zaragozade la época se la conoció como laciudad de los cafés.Hacia el año 1930 se registra unainvasión de bares modernos ycervecerías muy céntricas, lo que hacelanguidecer la vida de los caféspropiamente dichos. Tanto es así queel más famoso de todos ellos, el GranCafé Ambos Mundos, cerró sus puertasel 2 de septiembre de 1955. En unlibrito titulado Tapas y aperitivos,escrito por José Sarrau hacia el primercuarto del siglo XX, el autor establece

la diferencia entre bares, colmados ytabernas. En los tres asegura que ya sevendían tapas y colocaba al bar comoel más elegante de los tresestablecimientos.Las tascas, por su parte, combinaban laventa de los vinos y licores a granelcon el servicio en las mesas. Las prisasde la vida más moderna no hacíanposible ya la disertación tranquila enlos cafés y había que buscar opcionesmás rápidas. Se empieza a alternar, lagente comienza a comer de pie y lasconversaciones se hacen delante deuna barra. Y en estas barras empiezana surgir pequeños bocados de comidapara acompañar los vasos de vino:había nacido la banderilla, tapa opincho. Estas primeras tapas eran, aligual que en otras ciudades españolas,rodajas o lonchas de productoscurados, encurtidos, olivas, anchoas,vinagretas en general y aquello que,por vivir en tiempo de escasez –eranlos años treinta–, no costaba dinero,sólo el tiempo de cogerlos (caracoles,setas y otros productos).Pasaron los años, la costumbre seasentó y el público demandaba másvariedad, de manera que había queincluir nuevas alternativas para lospaladares de las primeras cuadrillasque, también en Zaragoza, iban devinos. Y hasta 1951-1952 las tapassiguen siendo, mayoritariamente frías,aunque ya más evolucionadas conrespecto a las primeras, que eran mássencillas: de escabeche o de pepinillo,aceituna y anchoa. Así, se comienzan aencontrar mejillones con tomate,huevos duros rellenos, platos dequesos variados y pimientos picantes.También surge otra alternativa como elhígado con ajo, las manitas de cordero,las madejas (intestino de corderotrenzado), las gambas cocidas, lassardinas y, por supuesto, la tortilla conpatata (no “de patata”, pues la tortillasiempre es “de huevo” y con algo, biensea patata, chorizo o el alimento que sequiera incluir) que acompaña al bar

desde el inicio de su andadura.Pero al comienzo de la década de loscincuenta aparece un nuevo invento: lafreidora, que supone un avancecualitativo e importante para los bares.Desde entonces la evolución delpincho o tapa fue constante ypermanente y, en la actualidad, losfritos avanzan por senderos de éxito.

Tapear, un rito conprotocoloEn los años cincuenta, definitivamente,la costumbre del tapeo está plenamenteinstaurada en la ciudad, lo que favoreceel desarrollo de una nueva forma devisitar los locales: callejear por diversoslocales para descubrir la cocina enpequeño formato. Es la esencia mismadel arte de tapeo tal y como hoy loconocemos.Desde entonces hasta hoy, la tradiciónno ha dejado de evolucionar. En laactualidad, el tapeo en Zaragoza

TAPAS ZARAGOZA_AF II.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 16:58 P gina 86

86 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 87

Tasting tapas is a must in Zaragoza.This gastronomic customdeveloped, or so the story goes, as aresult of a ruling by Alphonse X theWise (1221-1284) that the inns ofCastile should offer something toeat when serving drinks. Ever since,these miniature gastronomicpleasures have never ceased toevolve in taste and sophistication.In the collection published byIbercaja, ¡Aquí...Zaragoza!, writtenby José Blasco Ijazo, we find severalreferences to what in the mid-19th

century were known as botillerías or“bottle stores” in Zaragoza, in whichpatrons sought refuge. These werestores in which aromatic, brewedcoffee was served alongside icedalcoholic drinks. The author writes,“The streets were narrow, affordingshadows and seclusion and lit by oillamps with multiple wicks that castlight on ornamental cornucopias.Drinks with hyperbolical names andtasty tidbits charmed the patrons.The glasses were made of thick glassand, instead of trays, the waitersused cane baskets to hold thebottles of different liqueurs”. Theimpression is one of rather somberplaces, away from the usual circuits.It is estimated that about ten suchstores existed at that time but notfor long, because a new fashion wasto replace them–that of cafés.Cafés met the need for real meetingpoints, places for relaxation andcamaraderie. The first cinemaopened in 1905 and radio did notyet exist, so cafés became the bestplace to meet up with friends. Thecafés in Zaragoza soon formed anessential part of the city landscape.This city was inconceivable withoutits cafés, some of which were so largethat they had orchestras, with several

dance floors and large gardens wheredrinks were served, and some evenhad horse riding circuits. Today thisseems amazing. Some writings tell usthat Zaragoza was known at the timeas the city of cafés.Then, in about 1930, the city centerstarted to be invaded by modernbars and taverns and life in the caféslanguished. The most famous ofthem all, the Gran Café AmbosMundos, closed down on September2nd, 1955. In a book entitled Tapas yaperitivos written by José Sarrau inthe first quarter of the 20th century,the author distinguishes between thedifferent types of bars and theirvarying nomenclature–bar, colmado,taberna–but is clear that tapas weresold in all of them, and the bar wasconsidered to be the most elegant ofthe three.Then there were the tascas that

served wines and liqueurs to beconsumed at tables or bought inbulk. The bustle of modern life haddone away with relaxedconversation and people wereinterested in faster options. Theypreferred to eat while standing andtalking at the bar. And that waswhen the bars started to offer smallmorsels of food to accompany theglasses of wine–on sticks, on breador in small dishes. As in other cities,these early tapas were slices ofcured meat products, pickles,olives, anchovies, vinaigrettes ingeneral and whatever could besourced locally costing no money,just time, such as snails,mushrooms, etc. It was, after all,the grim 1930s.The years went by and the customtook root. People soon demandedmore variety so new options had tobe found. By the early 50s, tapaswere becoming more interestingalthough they were still mostlycold–pickles, mussels in tomatosauce, stuffed hard-boiled eggs,selections of cheese and spicypeppers. Other alternativesincluded liver with garlic, lambs’trotters, madejas (plaited lambs’intestine), cooked shrimp, sardinesand the ubiquitous, classic Spanishtortilla (potato omelette).But then a new inventionappeared–the deep fryer–openingup a whole new repertoire for bars.Things changed drastically and,ever since, tapas have constantlybeen developing, going on toinclude excellent fried foods.

The tapas ritualSo, by the 1950s, the tapas customformed part of Zaragozan life andthis led to a new way of

drinking–trailing from bar to bar todiscover each one’s small edibleofferings, the essence of tapas as weknow them today.Going out for a few drinks andtapas is a healthy habit and one thatis becoming increasingly popular.There are certain areas of Zaragozathat are considered a must fordiscovering small-scale culinaryversatility, the practical applicationof Aragonese and Zaragozan cuisinein small portions. But it is not just amatter of gastronomy. It is apleasurable way of passing the time,so it must not be done in a hurry.The idea is to stroll from one bar toanother, most of them in the mostemblematic and attractive parts ofthe old city, in the company ofgroups of friends and family, alwayswilling to participate in theconversation which is necessarilygood-humored. The trick for

TEXTJUAN BARBACIL

TRANSLATIONJENNY MCDONALD

PHOTOSFERNANDO MADARIAGA/ICEX

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level of professionalism and style. Itcould be said that 1994 marks theyear when this everyday activityreceived official status. Tapas hadbecome fashionable and thisrequired confirmation. Theassociation set to work and showedthat tapas in Zaragoza represented

an explosion of skill by theprofessionals behind the city’s barsand in its kitchens.It was in 1997 that the first TapaGastronomy Exhibition in Zaragozatook place, organized by theAragonese Down’s SyndromeFoundation (FASD). This

unprecedented initiative involvedalmost 30 establishments displayingand selling tapas over three days. Itwas hugely successful and wasrepeated in 1998 and 1999. Thefoundation’s opening remarksstated, “In order to create awarenessamongst the general public aboutDown’s syndrome, an idea waschosen that was latent in thecatering and hospitality sector inZaragoza, that of a gastronomicevent promoting one of the best-established values of oursociety–tapas–an element of greatcultural and economicimportance.”When tapas really made it inZaragoza was at the 5th TapasContest, with the same sponsorsand the same basic approach, butthis time with a closing celebrationand prize-giving held in theAljafería Palace, the seat of theAragonese Parliament. The contest

making contact with the barman isto offer a smile and good manners,or a comment on the day’s selectionof tapas. The drink comes as asymbol of friendship and the tapa asa sign of generosity. These are theessentials of the ritual and thesuccess of the outing will dependon the variety of tapas available, onthe tone of the conversation, on thenumber of people and on the fairsharing of the costs. When out fortapas, people eat and drink forpleasure, not out of thirst or

hunger, and this is the reason whytapas are becoming increasinglyrefined and complex, giving rise totapa technique–micro-cuisine thatexpresses itself in the form of realminiature delights.

Zaragoza, pioneerin tapa contestsZaragoza was one of the firstSpanish cities to hold tapa contestsand exhibitions, starting back in themid-1990s. These proved that

Zaragoza was a source of innovationin the art of eating standing up,with establishments that led theway in research and thedevelopment of new micro-cuisinefor the fans of this traditional butvery relevant custom. On April 19th, 1994 at 7 pm in theBoston Hotel, the awards for the 1st

San Jorge Tapa Contest werepresented by the Association of Caféand Bar Entrepreneurs. The eventhas been repeated every year sincethen, always characterized by a high

TASTING TAPAS IN ZARAGOZA

CULINARYFARE

CojonudoTake a slice of toasted bread, top witha griddled slice of ham then two friedquail’s eggs. The customer thenchooses one of the following as atopping–piquillo pepper, foie gras (themost popular), gulas® (imitation babyeels) or chistorra sausage. Cojonudosare only made to order, on the spot.

Prepared by: Casa Luis

Snails(Caracoles)First clean the snails carefully. In anearthenware dish, place a generousamount of Bajo Aragón extra virginolive oil, a head of garlic, a little thymeand rosemary, a few bay leaves, afew peppercorns and a little ham.Add the snails and cook very, veryslowly for about two hours. Salt totaste before serving.

Prepared by: Casa Pedro

07-TAPAS ZARAGOZA IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 16:09 P gina 88 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

TAPAS ZARAGOZA_AF II.qxd 24/11/07 08:13 Página 88

level of professionalism and style. Itcould be said that 1994 marks theyear when this everyday activityreceived official status. Tapas hadbecome fashionable and thisrequired confirmation. Theassociation set to work and showedthat tapas in Zaragoza represented

an explosion of skill by theprofessionals behind the city’s barsand in its kitchens.It was in 1997 that the first TapaGastronomy Exhibition in Zaragozatook place, organized by theAragonese Down’s SyndromeFoundation (FASD). This

unprecedented initiative involvedalmost 30 establishments displayingand selling tapas over three days. Itwas hugely successful and wasrepeated in 1998 and 1999. Thefoundation’s opening remarksstated, “In order to create awarenessamongst the general public aboutDown’s syndrome, an idea waschosen that was latent in thecatering and hospitality sector inZaragoza, that of a gastronomicevent promoting one of the best-established values of oursociety–tapas–an element of greatcultural and economicimportance.”When tapas really made it inZaragoza was at the 5th TapasContest, with the same sponsorsand the same basic approach, butthis time with a closing celebrationand prize-giving held in theAljafería Palace, the seat of theAragonese Parliament. The contest

making contact with the barman isto offer a smile and good manners,or a comment on the day’s selectionof tapas. The drink comes as asymbol of friendship and the tapa asa sign of generosity. These are theessentials of the ritual and thesuccess of the outing will dependon the variety of tapas available, onthe tone of the conversation, on thenumber of people and on the fairsharing of the costs. When out fortapas, people eat and drink forpleasure, not out of thirst or

hunger, and this is the reason whytapas are becoming increasinglyrefined and complex, giving rise totapa technique–micro-cuisine thatexpresses itself in the form of realminiature delights.

Zaragoza, pioneerin tapa contestsZaragoza was one of the firstSpanish cities to hold tapa contestsand exhibitions, starting back in themid-1990s. These proved that

Zaragoza was a source of innovationin the art of eating standing up,with establishments that led theway in research and thedevelopment of new micro-cuisinefor the fans of this traditional butvery relevant custom. On April 19th, 1994 at 7 pm in theBoston Hotel, the awards for the 1st

San Jorge Tapa Contest werepresented by the Association of Caféand Bar Entrepreneurs. The eventhas been repeated every year sincethen, always characterized by a high

TASTING TAPAS IN ZARAGOZA

CULINARYFARE

CojonudoTake a slice of toasted bread, top witha griddled slice of ham then two friedquail’s eggs. The customer thenchooses one of the following as atopping–piquillo pepper, foie gras (themost popular), gulas® (imitation babyeels) or chistorra sausage. Cojonudosare only made to order, on the spot.

Prepared by: Casa Luis

Snails(Caracoles)First clean the snails carefully. In anearthenware dish, place a generousamount of Bajo Aragón extra virginolive oil, a head of garlic, a little thymeand rosemary, a few bay leaves, afew peppercorns and a little ham.Add the snails and cook very, veryslowly for about two hours. Salt totaste before serving.

Prepared by: Casa Pedro

07-TAPAS ZARAGOZA IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 16:09 P gina 88 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

y se embarca en un gran reto como esla organización de una muestraprovincial. Se recupera el hotel Bostonpara la gran exposición final yconocidos críticos nacionales comoJosé Carlos Capel se desplazan hastaZaragoza para dar su opinión sobre lastapas de la ciudad. Y se celebra laincorporación de la Tapa Mudéjar alconcurso, en honor a la huella latenteque el arte mudéjar ha dejado en lacapital aragonesa. Y en este sentido, eldifunto Antonio Beltrán, presidente dela Academia Aragonesa deGastronomía, dijo entonces: “Deja queel tiempo pase, sin matarlo, gozándolo,metiendo entre lengua y paladar milesde años de cultura, sabiduría demoros, judíos y cristianos, es decir,una síntesis de Aragón. Y no dudes depasar de las tapas a las comidas porquerecetas suculentas sobran, gozosotestimonio de Aragón Mudéjar, hoyPatrimonio Mundial”.Plenamente consolidado en elcalendario social y gastronómico de loszaragozanos, el certamen provincial deTapas de Zaragoza cuenta ya doce

manera en una tierra de vinos comoAragón. Los elaborados en las cuatrodenominaciones de origen aragonesas(Cariñena, Campo de Borja, Calatayudy Somontano) y los vinos de la tierrade Aragón, cada vez más en boga, sellevan la palma, aunque tambiénconviven con los que provienen deotras importantes zonas vinícolas delpaís como Rioja, Ribera del Duero,Navarra o Penedés, entre otros.Después del vino, la bebida que másacompaña en el tapeo es la cerveza,una opción versátil que abarcadiferentes formas de consumo en:jarras (vaso con cuello y boca anchos,de más de 33 cl / 1/2 pt), tubos (vasoalargado de 33 cl / 1/2 pt), cañas (vasode 20 cl / 1/3 pt) y penaltis (vaso cortoy ancho de 10-12 cl / 1/4 pt). EnZaragoza, se impone el saborinconfundible de los barriles de laempresa local La Zaragozana(comercializada bajo la marca Ambar),así como sus estandartes Ambar 1900,Marlen, Export o Ambar Negra.Además de estas dos bebidasuniversales, también hay quien se

decanta por vermuts, con o sinalcohol, finos y manzanillas, sidras eincluso cavas, que cada vez con másfrecuencia se sirven por copas en losestablecimientos zaragozanos. Lasposibilidades de maridaje, como encualquier acto gastronómico, soninmensas, aunque en el caso de lastapas, por esa pluralidad dominante, seacrecienta todavía más.

Las rutas taperasVarias son las zonas de Zaragoza en lasque, a mediodía y al caer la tarde, eshabitual encontrar a grupos y curiososen busca de las micro especialidadesmás señaladas. Las callejuelaspintorescas del Casco Antiguo son lasque, en la actualidad, aportan lasmejores dosis de fusión entre lotradicional y lo innovador, aunque lesigue de cerca la zona centro de laciudad, repleta de establecimientosdonde podemos saborear excelentesmuestras del buen hacer de losprofesionales aragoneses en materia demicro cocina. Otra zona con larga

ediciones, alcanzando mayorparticipación, popularidad ytrascendencia cada año. Losprofesionales, que cada año se loponen más difícil al jurado,encuentran en este certamen unaoportunidad de impulsar su negocio,promocionarlo y prestigiar a la ciudaden su faceta más gastronómica ypopular.

Comer y beber lasbebidas apropiadasCañas, finos y manzanillas, aperitivos,cavas… pero, sobre todo, vinos. Estos,junto a la cerveza, constituyen labebida más extendida a la hora de salira rondar por bares y cafeterías enZaragoza. En un recorrido de tapas seimpone siempre la variedad; el alternardistintos tipos de pinchos tambiénconlleva la posibilidad de combinardiferentes bebidas.Hoy en día los principalesprotagonistas del tapeo son los vinosen general, como no podía ser de otra

elegido una idea latente en el sector dela restauración y la hosteleríazaragozana, como es la de realizar unamuestra gastronómica que permitapopularizar y promocionar uno de losvalores de mayor raigambre en nuestrasociedad –la tapa–, de granimportancia cultural y económica”.La gran puesta de largo de la tapa llegacon el V Concurso de Tapas de 1999,con idénticos patrocinadores ysimilares planteamientos, pero con lanovedad de que la gran fiesta final conentrega de premios y exposición sehace en bandejas de alabastro, pues aeste importante recurso aragonés sededica el concurso en el Palacio de laAljafería, sede de las CortesAragonesas. Nunca la tapa y los bareshabían llegado a tener tal escenario deabsoluto reconocimiento público ypolítico. Fue el 20 de mayo de 1999.Con el cambio de milenio elVI Concurso de la Tapa se asocia a laIV Muestra de la Tapa, por lo queempiezan a caminar juntos.La Asociación de Cafés y Bares deZaragoza decide dar un nuevo impulso

Migas a la marineracon cigalitaCortar el pan duro del día anterior yponerlo en remojo con un poco deagua. Hacer un sofrito de cebollas yajos con aceite de oliva virgen extradel Bajo Aragón y añadir pulpitos,gambas, chipirones y pimentón dulce.Salar y deja reducir. Incorporar alsofrito las migas de pan duro,removiendo continua y enérgicamentehasta que las migas adquieran elpunto de cocción y esponjosidaddeseado. Se sirven en tarterasindividuales de barro, incorporando,como guinda del plato, una cigalitaabierta a la plancha.

Elaborado por: La Taberna delPescatero

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by the Muslims in the capital ofAragón. The late Antonio Beltrán,president at the time of theAragonese Academy of Gastronomy,said, “Let time pass. Don’t kill it,enjoy it by placing, between yourtongue and your palate, thousandsof years of culture, the wisdom ofMuslims, Jews and Christians, thatis, a synthesis of Aragón. And donot hesitate to pass from tapas tomeals because the Mudéjar culturein Aragón, today Heritage ofMankind, left behind plenty ofdelicious recipes.”The Zaragoza Tapas contest has nowbecome a landmark on theprovince’s social and gastronomiccalendar. Its wide appeal and thelevel of participation grow year byyear. And the professionals–whomake things increasingly difficultfor the panel of judges–consider itto be an opportunity to galvanizetheir businesses while promoting

accompaniment for tapas, a versatiledrink that can be served in severalways: in a jarra (a glass with a wideneck and mouth, holding over 330cl / 110 oz), a tubo (a straight, tallglass as its name indicates, holding330 cl / 110 oz), a caña (a glasscontaining 200 cl / 66 oz) and apenalti (a short, wide glasscontaining 100-120 cl / 33-40 oz).And Zaragoza has its own brand,Ambar, made locally by LaZaragozana, whose main productsare Ambar 1900, Marlen, Exportand Ambar Negra.Apart from wine and beer, otherfavorites are vermouth with orwithout alcohol, fino, manzanilla,cider and even cava, an increasinglypopular partner for tapas. As withany gastronomic offering, the scopefor marriages is huge but it isperhaps even greater with themultiplicity of tapas available.

Tapas toursThere are several parts of Zaragozathat, at midday and in theafternoon, are frequently combedby tapa-lovers in search of theirmicro-specialties. The narrow lanesin the historic quarter (CascoAntiguo) offer the greatest blendbetween tradition and innovation,but they are followed close behindin popularity by the city center,which is full of establishmentsoffering excellent samples of microcuisine, and by the university area.But the fact is that every district hasbars catering to the tapas trend,each featuring its own distinctivespecialties.Altogether, the street map offersplenty to choose from for fans ofthese small gastronomic pleasures.In an attempt to help out, theZaragoza Tourist Office has joinedforces with the Association of Cafés

the most popular feature of the city:its gastronomy.

What to drinkA beer, a fino or manzanilla, spirits,cava...but, above all, wine. Wineand beer are the most commondrinks for accompanying tapas inZaragoza’s bars and cafeterias. Theemphasis is always on variety, anddifferent tapas suggest differentdrinks.In the wine-producing region ofAragón, the locals are rightly proudof their wines. Those from the fourdesignations of origin (Cariñena,Campo de Borja, Catalayud andSomontano) as well as the vinos dela tierra de Aragón are the favorites,but the offer always includes winesfrom other parts of Spain–Rioja,Ribera del Duero, Navarre andPenedés, among others.After wine comes beer as an

TASTING TAPAS IN ZARAGOZA TASTING TAPAS IN ZARAGOZA

CULINARYFARE

also gave pride of place to alabaster,an important regional product, andthe tapas were displayed onalabaster trays. Never had tapas andbars enjoyed such public andpolitical acclaim and in suchpalatial surroundings. That was May20th of 1999.With the arrival of the newmillennium, the 6th Tapa Contestjoined forces with the 4th TapaExhibition. The ZaragozanAssociation of Cafés and Barsdecided to give the event addedimpetus and took charge oforganizing the provincialexhibition. The Boston Hotel waschosen once again for the closingevent and well-known food writerssuch as José Carlos Capel traveledto Zaragoza to express theiropinions about the local tapas. Aninnovation this year was a newcategory: the Mudéjar tapa, inhonor of the Mudéjar art left behind

Sailor-style croutonswith Dublin Bay prawn(Migas a la marineracon cigalita)Cut some stale bread into pieces andsoak in a little water. Fry onion andgarlic with Bajo Aragón extra virginolive oil. Add baby octopus, prawn,squid and sweet pimentón (a type ofpaprika from Spain). Season with saltand reduce. Add the pieces of stalebread and stir vigorously until they aresoft and spongy. Serve in individualearthenware dishes. Open up a DublinBay prawn by slitting along the bellylengthwise, griddle and place on top.

Prepared by: La Taberna delPescatero

07-TAPAS ZARAGOZA IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 16:09 P gina 90 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

y se embarca en un gran reto como esla organización de una muestraprovincial. Se recupera el hotel Bostonpara la gran exposición final yconocidos críticos nacionales comoJosé Carlos Capel se desplazan hastaZaragoza para dar su opinión sobre lastapas de la ciudad. Y se celebra laincorporación de la Tapa Mudéjar alconcurso, en honor a la huella latenteque el arte mudéjar ha dejado en lacapital aragonesa. Y en este sentido, eldifunto Antonio Beltrán, presidente dela Academia Aragonesa deGastronomía, dijo entonces: “Deja queel tiempo pase, sin matarlo, gozándolo,metiendo entre lengua y paladar milesde años de cultura, sabiduría demoros, judíos y cristianos, es decir,una síntesis de Aragón. Y no dudes depasar de las tapas a las comidas porquerecetas suculentas sobran, gozosotestimonio de Aragón Mudéjar, hoyPatrimonio Mundial”.Plenamente consolidado en elcalendario social y gastronómico de loszaragozanos, el certamen provincial deTapas de Zaragoza cuenta ya doce

manera en una tierra de vinos comoAragón. Los elaborados en las cuatrodenominaciones de origen aragonesas(Cariñena, Campo de Borja, Calatayudy Somontano) y los vinos de la tierrade Aragón, cada vez más en boga, sellevan la palma, aunque tambiénconviven con los que provienen deotras importantes zonas vinícolas delpaís como Rioja, Ribera del Duero,Navarra o Penedés, entre otros.Después del vino, la bebida que másacompaña en el tapeo es la cerveza,una opción versátil que abarcadiferentes formas de consumo en:jarras (vaso con cuello y boca anchos,de más de 33 cl / 1/2 pt), tubos (vasoalargado de 33 cl / 1/2 pt), cañas (vasode 20 cl / 1/3 pt) y penaltis (vaso cortoy ancho de 10-12 cl / 1/4 pt). EnZaragoza, se impone el saborinconfundible de los barriles de laempresa local La Zaragozana(comercializada bajo la marca Ambar),así como sus estandartes Ambar 1900,Marlen, Export o Ambar Negra.Además de estas dos bebidasuniversales, también hay quien se

decanta por vermuts, con o sinalcohol, finos y manzanillas, sidras eincluso cavas, que cada vez con másfrecuencia se sirven por copas en losestablecimientos zaragozanos. Lasposibilidades de maridaje, como encualquier acto gastronómico, soninmensas, aunque en el caso de lastapas, por esa pluralidad dominante, seacrecienta todavía más.

Las rutas taperasVarias son las zonas de Zaragoza en lasque, a mediodía y al caer la tarde, eshabitual encontrar a grupos y curiososen busca de las micro especialidadesmás señaladas. Las callejuelaspintorescas del Casco Antiguo son lasque, en la actualidad, aportan lasmejores dosis de fusión entre lotradicional y lo innovador, aunque lesigue de cerca la zona centro de laciudad, repleta de establecimientosdonde podemos saborear excelentesmuestras del buen hacer de losprofesionales aragoneses en materia demicro cocina. Otra zona con larga

ediciones, alcanzando mayorparticipación, popularidad ytrascendencia cada año. Losprofesionales, que cada año se loponen más difícil al jurado,encuentran en este certamen unaoportunidad de impulsar su negocio,promocionarlo y prestigiar a la ciudaden su faceta más gastronómica ypopular.

Comer y beber lasbebidas apropiadasCañas, finos y manzanillas, aperitivos,cavas… pero, sobre todo, vinos. Estos,junto a la cerveza, constituyen labebida más extendida a la hora de salira rondar por bares y cafeterías enZaragoza. En un recorrido de tapas seimpone siempre la variedad; el alternardistintos tipos de pinchos tambiénconlleva la posibilidad de combinardiferentes bebidas.Hoy en día los principalesprotagonistas del tapeo son los vinosen general, como no podía ser de otra

elegido una idea latente en el sector dela restauración y la hosteleríazaragozana, como es la de realizar unamuestra gastronómica que permitapopularizar y promocionar uno de losvalores de mayor raigambre en nuestrasociedad –la tapa–, de granimportancia cultural y económica”.La gran puesta de largo de la tapa llegacon el V Concurso de Tapas de 1999,con idénticos patrocinadores ysimilares planteamientos, pero con lanovedad de que la gran fiesta final conentrega de premios y exposición sehace en bandejas de alabastro, pues aeste importante recurso aragonés sededica el concurso en el Palacio de laAljafería, sede de las CortesAragonesas. Nunca la tapa y los bareshabían llegado a tener tal escenario deabsoluto reconocimiento público ypolítico. Fue el 20 de mayo de 1999.Con el cambio de milenio elVI Concurso de la Tapa se asocia a laIV Muestra de la Tapa, por lo queempiezan a caminar juntos.La Asociación de Cafés y Bares deZaragoza decide dar un nuevo impulso

Migas a la marineracon cigalitaCortar el pan duro del día anterior yponerlo en remojo con un poco deagua. Hacer un sofrito de cebollas yajos con aceite de oliva virgen extradel Bajo Aragón y añadir pulpitos,gambas, chipirones y pimentón dulce.Salar y deja reducir. Incorporar alsofrito las migas de pan duro,removiendo continua y enérgicamentehasta que las migas adquieran elpunto de cocción y esponjosidaddeseado. Se sirven en tarterasindividuales de barro, incorporando,como guinda del plato, una cigalitaabierta a la plancha.

Elaborado por: La Taberna delPescatero

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by the Muslims in the capital ofAragón. The late Antonio Beltrán,president at the time of theAragonese Academy of Gastronomy,said, “Let time pass. Don’t kill it,enjoy it by placing, between yourtongue and your palate, thousandsof years of culture, the wisdom ofMuslims, Jews and Christians, thatis, a synthesis of Aragón. And donot hesitate to pass from tapas tomeals because the Mudéjar culturein Aragón, today Heritage ofMankind, left behind plenty ofdelicious recipes.”The Zaragoza Tapas contest has nowbecome a landmark on theprovince’s social and gastronomiccalendar. Its wide appeal and thelevel of participation grow year byyear. And the professionals–whomake things increasingly difficultfor the panel of judges–consider itto be an opportunity to galvanizetheir businesses while promoting

accompaniment for tapas, a versatiledrink that can be served in severalways: in a jarra (a glass with a wideneck and mouth, holding over 330cl / 110 oz), a tubo (a straight, tallglass as its name indicates, holding330 cl / 110 oz), a caña (a glasscontaining 200 cl / 66 oz) and apenalti (a short, wide glasscontaining 100-120 cl / 33-40 oz).And Zaragoza has its own brand,Ambar, made locally by LaZaragozana, whose main productsare Ambar 1900, Marlen, Exportand Ambar Negra.Apart from wine and beer, otherfavorites are vermouth with orwithout alcohol, fino, manzanilla,cider and even cava, an increasinglypopular partner for tapas. As withany gastronomic offering, the scopefor marriages is huge but it isperhaps even greater with themultiplicity of tapas available.

Tapas toursThere are several parts of Zaragozathat, at midday and in theafternoon, are frequently combedby tapa-lovers in search of theirmicro-specialties. The narrow lanesin the historic quarter (CascoAntiguo) offer the greatest blendbetween tradition and innovation,but they are followed close behindin popularity by the city center,which is full of establishmentsoffering excellent samples of microcuisine, and by the university area.But the fact is that every district hasbars catering to the tapas trend,each featuring its own distinctivespecialties.Altogether, the street map offersplenty to choose from for fans ofthese small gastronomic pleasures.In an attempt to help out, theZaragoza Tourist Office has joinedforces with the Association of Cafés

the most popular feature of the city:its gastronomy.

What to drinkA beer, a fino or manzanilla, spirits,cava...but, above all, wine. Wineand beer are the most commondrinks for accompanying tapas inZaragoza’s bars and cafeterias. Theemphasis is always on variety, anddifferent tapas suggest differentdrinks.In the wine-producing region ofAragón, the locals are rightly proudof their wines. Those from the fourdesignations of origin (Cariñena,Campo de Borja, Catalayud andSomontano) as well as the vinos dela tierra de Aragón are the favorites,but the offer always includes winesfrom other parts of Spain–Rioja,Ribera del Duero, Navarre andPenedés, among others.After wine comes beer as an

TASTING TAPAS IN ZARAGOZA TASTING TAPAS IN ZARAGOZA

CULINARYFARE

also gave pride of place to alabaster,an important regional product, andthe tapas were displayed onalabaster trays. Never had tapas andbars enjoyed such public andpolitical acclaim and in suchpalatial surroundings. That was May20th of 1999.With the arrival of the newmillennium, the 6th Tapa Contestjoined forces with the 4th TapaExhibition. The ZaragozanAssociation of Cafés and Barsdecided to give the event addedimpetus and took charge oforganizing the provincialexhibition. The Boston Hotel waschosen once again for the closingevent and well-known food writerssuch as José Carlos Capel traveledto Zaragoza to express theiropinions about the local tapas. Aninnovation this year was a newcategory: the Mudéjar tapa, inhonor of the Mudéjar art left behind

Sailor-style croutonswith Dublin Bay prawn(Migas a la marineracon cigalita)Cut some stale bread into pieces andsoak in a little water. Fry onion andgarlic with Bajo Aragón extra virginolive oil. Add baby octopus, prawn,squid and sweet pimentón (a type ofpaprika from Spain). Season with saltand reduce. Add the pieces of stalebread and stir vigorously until they aresoft and spongy. Serve in individualearthenware dishes. Open up a DublinBay prawn by slitting along the bellylengthwise, griddle and place on top.

Prepared by: La Taberna delPescatero

07-TAPAS ZARAGOZA IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 16:09 P gina 90 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

al visitante en las oficinas de turismo ypuntos de información de la capitalaragonesa. La guía propone tanto a lospropios zaragozanos, como a todos los

degustar estos pequeños manjares(Centro-Casco Histórico, Gran Vía-Sagasta, San José-Las Fuentes,Almozara-Delicias, Universidad,Torrero-La Paz y Actur-La Jota-Jesús),y persigue el objetivo, según laconcejala de Turismo, Elena Allué, de“reivindicar la tapa como uno de losreclamos gastronómicos y turísticosmás atractivos de Zaragoza; notenemos nada que envidiar a lasciudades que tradicionalmente hantenido fama por su surtido de tapas.En Zaragoza, la calidad, la variedad yla originalidad es altísima”.

En la zona Centro-Casco Histórico,Zaragoza encierra cientos deestablecimientos a cuyos manjares esdifícil resistirse. En una de las zonasmás elegantes de la ciudad, donde seubican los centros de negocios y lasfirmas de moda más selectas, se hallael Café Babel, lugar de reunión deamigos y ejecutivos que cierran temasante un buen vermut. Con aireinnovador, Marta Navarro, propietariay cocinera, llena a diario la barra deeste establecimiento en el que sepueden probar salsas exóticas como laharisa (salsa de acompañamientoelaborada a partir de la guindilla). LaPastilla de pollo mudéjar (pollo conespecias sobre una lámina de ouarka–pasta brick–, harisa y yogur) hizomerecedor al Babel de un premio en

restaurante con capacidad para treintapersonas. Un trato correcto y amable,además de un bonito entorno, son laguinda que te anima a repetir.La ruta por algunos centros del tapeodel casco antiguo de Zaragoza sigue enel Condolías, un coqueto local que gozade un ambiente muy animado y de unaestupenda ubicación, lo cual favorece elcontinuo ir y venir de una fielparroquia. Aquí se ofrecen buenastapas, sobre todo la chistorrina (ochistorra: embutido elaborado concarne de cerdo, ajo, sal, pimentóny hierbas aromáticas); los montaditos(bocadillo elaborado con una barra depan muy pequeña); las cazuelas (guisode carne); y un amplio surtidoelaborado con el vinagre comoprotagonista, como los boquerones, lasanchoas y el atún o bonito. Predominanlos fritos como el inglesito (masa debechamel con jamón y queso, rebozaday frita), las pencas rellenas, lascroquetas (masa de bechamel a la quese le pueden añadir otros ingredientes,rebozada y frita) o la bola de espinacas.Y tampoco faltan vinos, cervezas, sidranatural y vermut con sifón. Tanto labarra, como el local suelen estar arebosar sobre todo el fin de semana.Hace pocos meses que ha abierto unonuevo en el casco histórico, conidéntica oferta y características.Los locales con mayor solera de laciudad se ubican en las pintorescascalles del casco histórico. Una de las

trayectoria en tapas la encontramos enlos aledaños de la universidad y, en losúltimos años, en cada barrio, dondehan ido surgiendo locales que sesuman a la moda de las tapas,preparando especialidades diferenciadasque les otorgan un sello de distinción ypersonalidad.Todo ello viene a configurar unextensísimo mapa para los aficionados alos pequeños placeres gastronómicos.Para no perderse entre tanta oferta, laConcejalía de Turismo del Ayuntamientode Zaragoza y la Asociación de Cafés yBares han editado la Guía de Tapas 2007,un ambicioso documento publicado enfrancés, inglés y español, que recoge en52 páginas la oferta que se puedeencontrar de esta delicia gastronómicaen la ciudad de Zaragoza y que se facilita

una edición del concurso organizadopor la Asociación de Cafés y Bares deZaragoza. Mousse de foie bombón,patatas con bogavante, faisánescabechado (cocinado con aceite deoliva virgen extra, vinagre y hierbasaromáticas) con endibias o distintospasteles son referencias anfitrionas deesta casa, que todos los viernes preparauna tapa especial.No muy alejado de éste, se ubica el barVinos Bole, un sugerenteestablecimiento tanto por ladecoración como por el particular tratoque recibe el vino, protagonistaindiscutible. En el local, el sumillerJosé Luis Borlán ofrece la posibilidad alos aficionados al vino de probar unaamplia gama de variedades, servidos

en copas a una temperatura óptima; ycon una oferta que se renuevaperiódicamente. Un espectacular cavade conservación de vinos los mantienea la temperatura idónea hasta suconsumo y en una pizarra, que cambiacada quince días, nos sugiere con cuálde ellos podemos tomar una tapa. Esun placer degustar la mini cocina quea diario sale a la barra, consorprendentes propuestas comoempanadico de foie (masa de panrellena de foie), ravioli de longaniza(embutido de carne de cerdo picada),chireta (plato típico aragonés queconsiste en la tripa del cordero cosiday rellena de arroz condimentado ymollejas) con setas o atún marinado. Alfondo del local, cuenta con un coqueto

turistas hasta siete rutas distintas para

Carrillera ibérica con puré de mango y reducción devino tintoLa carrillera ibérica se guisa estofada a la manera tradicional, con cebolla,zanahoria, pimiento verde, ajos y un poco de coñac, a fuego lento. En unmontadito de pan se coloca un trocito de carrillera ibérica partida por la mitad yencima se incorpora el puré de mango, luego se tapa con otro trocito decarrillera y se unen con un palillo. Para acabar, se moja con una reducción devino tinto, que se elabora dejando reducir el vino con azúcar. Se decora con unorejón (melocotón deshuesado y secado al sol) elaborado a partir de piezas conDO Melocotón de Calanda.

Elaborado por: Hermanos Teresa

FluviLa figura de Fluvi (mascota de la ExpoZaragoza 2008) se realiza en unmolde de masa de pizza, que seenriquece con crujiente de bacón,morcilla (embutido de sangre), tomatey queso de cabra. Encima,cubriéndolo todo, se coloca otra baseigual con la forma de Fluvi y se pintacon una gelatina azul dulce muysuave. Como Fluvi tiene los ojosnegros, en su tapa los ojos seconsiguen con dos rodajas demorcilla.

Elaborado por: La Estrella de LaJota

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JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 93

gastronomes and tourists. Wecompare well with any of the othercities that have traditionally reachedfame for their tapas. In Zaragoza,the quality, variety and originalityare outstanding.”The Center-Historic quarter ishome to hundreds of establishmentsthat are difficult to resist. In one ofthe most well-to-do parts of the city,close to the business centers anddesigner stores, is Café Babel, ameeting place for groups of friendsor executives closing deals over aglass of vermouth. Every day, MartaNavarro, the owner and chef, fillsthe bar with an appetizing selection.Her innovations include exotic

creations such as harissa (anaccompanying sauce made fromchili pepper). Her Mudéjar chickenpastilla (chicken with spices on asheet of filo pastry with harissa andyogurt) earned Babel a prize in oneof the contests held by the ZaragozaAssociation of Cafés and Bars. Otherin-house recipes are mousse of foiegras, potatoes with lobster, pheasantin a pickle sauce (cooked in extravirgin olive oil, vinegar and herbs)with endives and a selection ofpastries. Every day she brings out aspecial tapa.Not far from here is Vinos Bole, abar that is attractive for both itsdécor and the way it serves wine,

with rolls), cazuelas (casseroles) anda large variety of seafood in vinegar,such as anchovies, tuna, etc. Thefried tapas include inglesitos (littleEnglishmen, made from a thickbechamel with ham and cheese,dipped in breadcrumbs and fried),pencas rellenas (stalks of Swiss chardfilled and fried), croquettes (madefrom bechamel with addedingredients, covered inbreadcrumbs and fried) and spinachballs. Both the bar and the tablesare usually chock-a-block,especially on the weekends. Andthe drinks are the usual–wine, beer,natural cider and vermouth withsoda water. A few months ago theowners opened up a newestablishment, also in the old town,with the same products and thesame characteristics.The most traditional bars arelocated in the picturesque streets ofthe old town. One of the mostrenowned spots for its tapas is LosVitorinos, and many people say itstapas are the best in town. Namedbar of the year by the GourmetGuide for 2007, it has received manyawards, but perhaps the mostimportant recognition of all is thatof its patrons, who are there at allhours, every day of the week. The

TASTING TAPAS IN ZARAGOZA

CULINARYFARE

and Bars to bring out the TapasGuide for 2007, an ambitiousdocument published in French,English and Spanish and availablefrom tourist offices and informationpoints in Zaragoza, with 52 pages ofsuggestions for locals and touristsalike of where to go and what to try.The guide establishes seven routes(Center-Historic quarter, Gran Vía-Sagasta, San José-Las Fuentes,Almozara-Delicias, University,Torrero-La Paz and Actur-La Jota-Jesús) and aims, according to thecouncilor for tourism, Elena Allué,“to celebrate tapas as one ofZaragoza’s greatest attractions for

the undoubted star feature. Thesommelier, José Luis Borlán, invitescustomers to try a wide range ofvarieties, served at the optimumtemperature. The bottles are storedin a spectacular wine cellar and ablackboard offers a list–whichchanges every two weeks–of thewines that would make goodpartners for tapas. Trying theminicuisine that is displayed on thebar every day is a memorableexperience. The surprisingproposals include empanadico de foie(a pastry filled with foie gras),ravioli with longaniza sausage,chireta (a typical Aragonese dishmade of lambs’ tripe filled with

seasoned rice and sweetbreads) withwild mushrooms or marinated tuna.At the back of the bar is a small butwelcoming restaurant seating 30where the pleasant service ensuresthat patrons return at their earliestconvenience.The next stop on our itinerary isConcolías, a well-decorated barwith a lively atmosphere and asplendid location, ensuring thatpeople are always coming andgoing. The tapas proffered hereinclude chistorrina (a chistorrasausage made from pork, garlic,salt, pimentón and herbs),montaditos (small sandwiches made

Ibérico pork cheek with mango purée and red winereduction (Carrillera ibérica con puré de mango yreducción de vino tinto)Cook the pork cheek in the traditional way by simmering it with onion, carrot,green pepper, garlic and a little brandy. Take a small piece of meat cut in half andplace on a small slice of bread, add mango purée and top with the other half.Fasten with a cocktail stick. Pour over a little red wine reduced with sugar.Decorate with a dried DO Melocotón de Calanda peach.

Prepared by: Hermanos Teresa

FluviThe Fluvi figure is formed by placingpizza dough in a mold. Add baconcrisp, morcilla (blood sausage),tomato and goats’ milk cheese. Coverwith another base cut in the sameshape and brush with a very light,sweet blue gelatin. Top with two ringsof morcilla to represent Fluvi’s eyes.

Prepared by: La Estrella de La Jota

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al visitante en las oficinas de turismo ypuntos de información de la capitalaragonesa. La guía propone tanto a lospropios zaragozanos, como a todos los

degustar estos pequeños manjares(Centro-Casco Histórico, Gran Vía-Sagasta, San José-Las Fuentes,Almozara-Delicias, Universidad,Torrero-La Paz y Actur-La Jota-Jesús),y persigue el objetivo, según laconcejala de Turismo, Elena Allué, de“reivindicar la tapa como uno de losreclamos gastronómicos y turísticosmás atractivos de Zaragoza; notenemos nada que envidiar a lasciudades que tradicionalmente hantenido fama por su surtido de tapas.En Zaragoza, la calidad, la variedad yla originalidad es altísima”.

En la zona Centro-Casco Histórico,Zaragoza encierra cientos deestablecimientos a cuyos manjares esdifícil resistirse. En una de las zonasmás elegantes de la ciudad, donde seubican los centros de negocios y lasfirmas de moda más selectas, se hallael Café Babel, lugar de reunión deamigos y ejecutivos que cierran temasante un buen vermut. Con aireinnovador, Marta Navarro, propietariay cocinera, llena a diario la barra deeste establecimiento en el que sepueden probar salsas exóticas como laharisa (salsa de acompañamientoelaborada a partir de la guindilla). LaPastilla de pollo mudéjar (pollo conespecias sobre una lámina de ouarka–pasta brick–, harisa y yogur) hizomerecedor al Babel de un premio en

restaurante con capacidad para treintapersonas. Un trato correcto y amable,además de un bonito entorno, son laguinda que te anima a repetir.La ruta por algunos centros del tapeodel casco antiguo de Zaragoza sigue enel Condolías, un coqueto local que gozade un ambiente muy animado y de unaestupenda ubicación, lo cual favorece elcontinuo ir y venir de una fielparroquia. Aquí se ofrecen buenastapas, sobre todo la chistorrina (ochistorra: embutido elaborado concarne de cerdo, ajo, sal, pimentóny hierbas aromáticas); los montaditos(bocadillo elaborado con una barra depan muy pequeña); las cazuelas (guisode carne); y un amplio surtidoelaborado con el vinagre comoprotagonista, como los boquerones, lasanchoas y el atún o bonito. Predominanlos fritos como el inglesito (masa debechamel con jamón y queso, rebozaday frita), las pencas rellenas, lascroquetas (masa de bechamel a la quese le pueden añadir otros ingredientes,rebozada y frita) o la bola de espinacas.Y tampoco faltan vinos, cervezas, sidranatural y vermut con sifón. Tanto labarra, como el local suelen estar arebosar sobre todo el fin de semana.Hace pocos meses que ha abierto unonuevo en el casco histórico, conidéntica oferta y características.Los locales con mayor solera de laciudad se ubican en las pintorescascalles del casco histórico. Una de las

trayectoria en tapas la encontramos enlos aledaños de la universidad y, en losúltimos años, en cada barrio, dondehan ido surgiendo locales que sesuman a la moda de las tapas,preparando especialidades diferenciadasque les otorgan un sello de distinción ypersonalidad.Todo ello viene a configurar unextensísimo mapa para los aficionados alos pequeños placeres gastronómicos.Para no perderse entre tanta oferta, laConcejalía de Turismo del Ayuntamientode Zaragoza y la Asociación de Cafés yBares han editado la Guía de Tapas 2007,un ambicioso documento publicado enfrancés, inglés y español, que recoge en52 páginas la oferta que se puedeencontrar de esta delicia gastronómicaen la ciudad de Zaragoza y que se facilita

una edición del concurso organizadopor la Asociación de Cafés y Bares deZaragoza. Mousse de foie bombón,patatas con bogavante, faisánescabechado (cocinado con aceite deoliva virgen extra, vinagre y hierbasaromáticas) con endibias o distintospasteles son referencias anfitrionas deesta casa, que todos los viernes preparauna tapa especial.No muy alejado de éste, se ubica el barVinos Bole, un sugerenteestablecimiento tanto por ladecoración como por el particular tratoque recibe el vino, protagonistaindiscutible. En el local, el sumillerJosé Luis Borlán ofrece la posibilidad alos aficionados al vino de probar unaamplia gama de variedades, servidos

en copas a una temperatura óptima; ycon una oferta que se renuevaperiódicamente. Un espectacular cavade conservación de vinos los mantienea la temperatura idónea hasta suconsumo y en una pizarra, que cambiacada quince días, nos sugiere con cuálde ellos podemos tomar una tapa. Esun placer degustar la mini cocina quea diario sale a la barra, consorprendentes propuestas comoempanadico de foie (masa de panrellena de foie), ravioli de longaniza(embutido de carne de cerdo picada),chireta (plato típico aragonés queconsiste en la tripa del cordero cosiday rellena de arroz condimentado ymollejas) con setas o atún marinado. Alfondo del local, cuenta con un coqueto

turistas hasta siete rutas distintas para

Carrillera ibérica con puré de mango y reducción devino tintoLa carrillera ibérica se guisa estofada a la manera tradicional, con cebolla,zanahoria, pimiento verde, ajos y un poco de coñac, a fuego lento. En unmontadito de pan se coloca un trocito de carrillera ibérica partida por la mitad yencima se incorpora el puré de mango, luego se tapa con otro trocito decarrillera y se unen con un palillo. Para acabar, se moja con una reducción devino tinto, que se elabora dejando reducir el vino con azúcar. Se decora con unorejón (melocotón deshuesado y secado al sol) elaborado a partir de piezas conDO Melocotón de Calanda.

Elaborado por: Hermanos Teresa

FluviLa figura de Fluvi (mascota de la ExpoZaragoza 2008) se realiza en unmolde de masa de pizza, que seenriquece con crujiente de bacón,morcilla (embutido de sangre), tomatey queso de cabra. Encima,cubriéndolo todo, se coloca otra baseigual con la forma de Fluvi y se pintacon una gelatina azul dulce muysuave. Como Fluvi tiene los ojosnegros, en su tapa los ojos seconsiguen con dos rodajas demorcilla.

Elaborado por: La Estrella de LaJota

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JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 93

gastronomes and tourists. Wecompare well with any of the othercities that have traditionally reachedfame for their tapas. In Zaragoza,the quality, variety and originalityare outstanding.”The Center-Historic quarter ishome to hundreds of establishmentsthat are difficult to resist. In one ofthe most well-to-do parts of the city,close to the business centers anddesigner stores, is Café Babel, ameeting place for groups of friendsor executives closing deals over aglass of vermouth. Every day, MartaNavarro, the owner and chef, fillsthe bar with an appetizing selection.Her innovations include exotic

creations such as harissa (anaccompanying sauce made fromchili pepper). Her Mudéjar chickenpastilla (chicken with spices on asheet of filo pastry with harissa andyogurt) earned Babel a prize in oneof the contests held by the ZaragozaAssociation of Cafés and Bars. Otherin-house recipes are mousse of foiegras, potatoes with lobster, pheasantin a pickle sauce (cooked in extravirgin olive oil, vinegar and herbs)with endives and a selection ofpastries. Every day she brings out aspecial tapa.Not far from here is Vinos Bole, abar that is attractive for both itsdécor and the way it serves wine,

with rolls), cazuelas (casseroles) anda large variety of seafood in vinegar,such as anchovies, tuna, etc. Thefried tapas include inglesitos (littleEnglishmen, made from a thickbechamel with ham and cheese,dipped in breadcrumbs and fried),pencas rellenas (stalks of Swiss chardfilled and fried), croquettes (madefrom bechamel with addedingredients, covered inbreadcrumbs and fried) and spinachballs. Both the bar and the tablesare usually chock-a-block,especially on the weekends. Andthe drinks are the usual–wine, beer,natural cider and vermouth withsoda water. A few months ago theowners opened up a newestablishment, also in the old town,with the same products and thesame characteristics.The most traditional bars arelocated in the picturesque streets ofthe old town. One of the mostrenowned spots for its tapas is LosVitorinos, and many people say itstapas are the best in town. Namedbar of the year by the GourmetGuide for 2007, it has received manyawards, but perhaps the mostimportant recognition of all is thatof its patrons, who are there at allhours, every day of the week. The

TASTING TAPAS IN ZARAGOZA

CULINARYFARE

and Bars to bring out the TapasGuide for 2007, an ambitiousdocument published in French,English and Spanish and availablefrom tourist offices and informationpoints in Zaragoza, with 52 pages ofsuggestions for locals and touristsalike of where to go and what to try.The guide establishes seven routes(Center-Historic quarter, Gran Vía-Sagasta, San José-Las Fuentes,Almozara-Delicias, University,Torrero-La Paz and Actur-La Jota-Jesús) and aims, according to thecouncilor for tourism, Elena Allué,“to celebrate tapas as one ofZaragoza’s greatest attractions for

the undoubted star feature. Thesommelier, José Luis Borlán, invitescustomers to try a wide range ofvarieties, served at the optimumtemperature. The bottles are storedin a spectacular wine cellar and ablackboard offers a list–whichchanges every two weeks–of thewines that would make goodpartners for tapas. Trying theminicuisine that is displayed on thebar every day is a memorableexperience. The surprisingproposals include empanadico de foie(a pastry filled with foie gras),ravioli with longaniza sausage,chireta (a typical Aragonese dishmade of lambs’ tripe filled with

seasoned rice and sweetbreads) withwild mushrooms or marinated tuna.At the back of the bar is a small butwelcoming restaurant seating 30where the pleasant service ensuresthat patrons return at their earliestconvenience.The next stop on our itinerary isConcolías, a well-decorated barwith a lively atmosphere and asplendid location, ensuring thatpeople are always coming andgoing. The tapas proffered hereinclude chistorrina (a chistorrasausage made from pork, garlic,salt, pimentón and herbs),montaditos (small sandwiches made

Ibérico pork cheek with mango purée and red winereduction (Carrillera ibérica con puré de mango yreducción de vino tinto)Cook the pork cheek in the traditional way by simmering it with onion, carrot,green pepper, garlic and a little brandy. Take a small piece of meat cut in half andplace on a small slice of bread, add mango purée and top with the other half.Fasten with a cocktail stick. Pour over a little red wine reduced with sugar.Decorate with a dried DO Melocotón de Calanda peach.

Prepared by: Hermanos Teresa

FluviThe Fluvi figure is formed by placingpizza dough in a mold. Add baconcrisp, morcilla (blood sausage),tomato and goats’ milk cheese. Coverwith another base cut in the sameshape and brush with a very light,sweet blue gelatin. Top with two ringsof morcilla to represent Fluvi’s eyes.

Prepared by: La Estrella de La Jota

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JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 95

they are experts with cooked dishes,from meatballs in almond sauce andlambs’ trotters to stewed ox tail andeggs with salmorejo (a cold soupmade from water, tomato, vinegar,extra virgin olive oil, salt andpepper), a classic Aragonese dishserved with style. Traditionalcuisine survives side by side withnew creations at Casa Pedro, anestablishment that is over 50 yearsold and today still makes some ofthe old favorites such as snails, tripeand trotters, while also trying outnew creations such as little bags ofspicy meat and toast with foie grasand caramelized onion.Now moving on from tradition tothe latest vibes in the world oftapas, we arrive at Méli Mélo. Thekeys here are originality and on-the-

Los Vitorinos bar is overloaded withenticing morsels and specialties,each with its own name, making itvery difficult to choose. Theselection includes: stuffed boletusmushrooms in sauce, cream ofvegetables with duck, artichokestuffed with hare, cookedmushrooms with foie gras, peppersstuffed with bull meat, foie graswith raspberry, truffled stewing hen,black rice with cod, veal cheeks inred wine, poached egg with whitePiamonte truffle, fairy ringmushrooms filled with duck liveror, in season, fresh artichoke stuffedwith rabbit.Another popular, classic tapas barthat has managed to keep its placeamongst the top few is the AltaTaberna Pedro Saputo. Here they

suggest freshly fried morsels such asfritters stuffed with Cabrales (a typeof blue cheese made in Asturias, inthe north of Spain), fritters stuffedwith Swiss chard and prawn,Ibérico ham croquettes, assortedvegetables and seafood and someoutstanding goose canapés. Afeature of the tapas in this bar is thetop-quality shellfish that is used inmany dishes, one example of whichis chickpeas with lobster. They arealso experts with mushrooms, andone of their latest creations is amagnificent fairy-ring mushroomfilled with sirloin and foie gras witha black truffle sauce.Very close to Saputo, as it is knownlocally, Casa Luis offers one of thebest cojonudos (toast topped withquail’s eggs, ham and pepper). Here

spot preparation. Some of the startapas are: roast potato filled withconfit of lamb in alioli (a saucemade of extra virgin olive oil andgarlic), accompanied with soft-friedonion and demi-glace (brownsauce), which won first prize in lastyear’s tapas contest, boletuscroquettes, goats’ cheese tapas, andthe very popular butifarra sausagecontaining wild mushrooms andserved on borage with AinzonMuscatel alioli.Another option in this part of townis Las Palomas, which offers a self-service buffet of tapas includingboth classic Aragonese recipes andnew creations.Now on to the Gran Vía-Sagastaneighborhood, where there are anumber of places not to be missed.Antiguo Paraíso offers a pleasantambiance and is well served by theowner-manager, Carlos Navarro.The bar displays an assortment ofoptions, including morcilla (bloodsausage), with pride of place givento the prize-winning stuffed rib oflamb on a puff-pastry. Wine, takendirectly from the cellar, is served bythe glass.For fried food lovers, the classicdestination is Marly, a small butcrowded bar where not only the

patrons but also the specialtiescome and go, with the constantturnover that is so characteristic oftapas bars. The kitchen constantlychurns out croquettes, brochettes,egg and prawn, ham and pâté,chistorra sausage with greenpepper, hard-boiled eggs stuffedwith meat, and many others. Theidea is that patrons keep thecocktail sticks and pay according tothe number of sticks left on theirplate. Alternatively, you can order aselection of fried foods for take out,to be eaten in more peacefulsurroundings.In recent years, a bar in the centerof town called Pic-Nic has built upa reputation for its excellent tapasas a result of winning first prize inthe 1st National Tapas Contest heldin Zaragoza. Its creations are bothmodern and exquisite. They includecurritos (toast with foie gras), theaward-winning paulita (cream ofcheese with crispy prawn) andJoselito (Dublin Bay prawn withmango sauce), alongside huevosrotos (fried eggs and french frieswith chorizo or morcilla), morselsof sirloin and a vegetable puff-pastry with piquillo peppers. Hereyou can enjoy a meal comprised oftapas, but if you want to be seated

you will need to book a table. Youcan round off the meal withdelicious desserts and someoutstanding chocolates.Another place that is well worth avisit is Café de Levante, a delightfulbar reminiscent of old-fashionedcafés and steeped in history. It is areal luxury to enjoy its uniqueatmosphere while trying one of itsspecialties such as artichoke stuffedwith cheese and salmon, tuna withham, and a large number of frieddelicacies.Mushroom fans should not missTxoco, a bar with a Basque namethat specializes in Basque wines andwhose kitchen constantly producestop-quality variations on themushroom theme–fried, grilled,raw, with cheese–all of themexcellent. Other possibilitiesinclude pork sirloin wrapped inbacon and albacore tuna withonion.Moving on to the San José-LasFuentes area where the mainlandmark is the renownedHermanos Teresa, with its hautecuisine in miniature. The classicdishes here are black sausage piewith rice and a pacharán sauce (atype of sloe gin), Spanish tortillawith pimentón and cumin sauce,

Spring lamb with grilled alioli and soft-fried onion(Ternasco confitado con alioli gratinadoy cebolla pochada)Bake potatoes then leave to cool. Meanwhile, confit the lamb by submerging it inextra virgin olive oil and cooking it at a low temperature, without allowing the oil toboil. Cut a slice off the potatoes and hollow out. When the meat is cooked, chopfinely and mix with alioli (a sauce made from extra virgin olive oil and garlic). Fillthe potato with the mixture, cover with more alioli, brown quickly under the grilland decorate with soft-fried onion and a little meat sauce.

Prepared by: Méli Mélo

Marinated Teruel rib of pork(Costilla adobada de cerdode Teruel)Salt the whole pork rib cage, adding pimentón andcrushed garlic to the salt. Leave hanging for a fewweeks. Cut and cook in Bajo Aragón extra virgin oliveoil for 25 minutes. Transfer to earthenware jars tokeep. When prepared this way, meat can be kept forseveral months. It can then be eaten cold, thetraditional way in the Aragonese villages, or it can becut into portions and heated up.

Prepared by: La Jamonería

07-TAPAS ZARAGOZA IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 16:09 P gina 94 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

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JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 95

they are experts with cooked dishes,from meatballs in almond sauce andlambs’ trotters to stewed ox tail andeggs with salmorejo (a cold soupmade from water, tomato, vinegar,extra virgin olive oil, salt andpepper), a classic Aragonese dishserved with style. Traditionalcuisine survives side by side withnew creations at Casa Pedro, anestablishment that is over 50 yearsold and today still makes some ofthe old favorites such as snails, tripeand trotters, while also trying outnew creations such as little bags ofspicy meat and toast with foie grasand caramelized onion.Now moving on from tradition tothe latest vibes in the world oftapas, we arrive at Méli Mélo. Thekeys here are originality and on-the-

Los Vitorinos bar is overloaded withenticing morsels and specialties,each with its own name, making itvery difficult to choose. Theselection includes: stuffed boletusmushrooms in sauce, cream ofvegetables with duck, artichokestuffed with hare, cookedmushrooms with foie gras, peppersstuffed with bull meat, foie graswith raspberry, truffled stewing hen,black rice with cod, veal cheeks inred wine, poached egg with whitePiamonte truffle, fairy ringmushrooms filled with duck liveror, in season, fresh artichoke stuffedwith rabbit.Another popular, classic tapas barthat has managed to keep its placeamongst the top few is the AltaTaberna Pedro Saputo. Here they

suggest freshly fried morsels such asfritters stuffed with Cabrales (a typeof blue cheese made in Asturias, inthe north of Spain), fritters stuffedwith Swiss chard and prawn,Ibérico ham croquettes, assortedvegetables and seafood and someoutstanding goose canapés. Afeature of the tapas in this bar is thetop-quality shellfish that is used inmany dishes, one example of whichis chickpeas with lobster. They arealso experts with mushrooms, andone of their latest creations is amagnificent fairy-ring mushroomfilled with sirloin and foie gras witha black truffle sauce.Very close to Saputo, as it is knownlocally, Casa Luis offers one of thebest cojonudos (toast topped withquail’s eggs, ham and pepper). Here

spot preparation. Some of the startapas are: roast potato filled withconfit of lamb in alioli (a saucemade of extra virgin olive oil andgarlic), accompanied with soft-friedonion and demi-glace (brownsauce), which won first prize in lastyear’s tapas contest, boletuscroquettes, goats’ cheese tapas, andthe very popular butifarra sausagecontaining wild mushrooms andserved on borage with AinzonMuscatel alioli.Another option in this part of townis Las Palomas, which offers a self-service buffet of tapas includingboth classic Aragonese recipes andnew creations.Now on to the Gran Vía-Sagastaneighborhood, where there are anumber of places not to be missed.Antiguo Paraíso offers a pleasantambiance and is well served by theowner-manager, Carlos Navarro.The bar displays an assortment ofoptions, including morcilla (bloodsausage), with pride of place givento the prize-winning stuffed rib oflamb on a puff-pastry. Wine, takendirectly from the cellar, is served bythe glass.For fried food lovers, the classicdestination is Marly, a small butcrowded bar where not only the

patrons but also the specialtiescome and go, with the constantturnover that is so characteristic oftapas bars. The kitchen constantlychurns out croquettes, brochettes,egg and prawn, ham and pâté,chistorra sausage with greenpepper, hard-boiled eggs stuffedwith meat, and many others. Theidea is that patrons keep thecocktail sticks and pay according tothe number of sticks left on theirplate. Alternatively, you can order aselection of fried foods for take out,to be eaten in more peacefulsurroundings.In recent years, a bar in the centerof town called Pic-Nic has built upa reputation for its excellent tapasas a result of winning first prize inthe 1st National Tapas Contest heldin Zaragoza. Its creations are bothmodern and exquisite. They includecurritos (toast with foie gras), theaward-winning paulita (cream ofcheese with crispy prawn) andJoselito (Dublin Bay prawn withmango sauce), alongside huevosrotos (fried eggs and french frieswith chorizo or morcilla), morselsof sirloin and a vegetable puff-pastry with piquillo peppers. Hereyou can enjoy a meal comprised oftapas, but if you want to be seated

you will need to book a table. Youcan round off the meal withdelicious desserts and someoutstanding chocolates.Another place that is well worth avisit is Café de Levante, a delightfulbar reminiscent of old-fashionedcafés and steeped in history. It is areal luxury to enjoy its uniqueatmosphere while trying one of itsspecialties such as artichoke stuffedwith cheese and salmon, tuna withham, and a large number of frieddelicacies.Mushroom fans should not missTxoco, a bar with a Basque namethat specializes in Basque wines andwhose kitchen constantly producestop-quality variations on themushroom theme–fried, grilled,raw, with cheese–all of themexcellent. Other possibilitiesinclude pork sirloin wrapped inbacon and albacore tuna withonion.Moving on to the San José-LasFuentes area where the mainlandmark is the renownedHermanos Teresa, with its hautecuisine in miniature. The classicdishes here are black sausage piewith rice and a pacharán sauce (atype of sloe gin), Spanish tortillawith pimentón and cumin sauce,

Spring lamb with grilled alioli and soft-fried onion(Ternasco confitado con alioli gratinadoy cebolla pochada)Bake potatoes then leave to cool. Meanwhile, confit the lamb by submerging it inextra virgin olive oil and cooking it at a low temperature, without allowing the oil toboil. Cut a slice off the potatoes and hollow out. When the meat is cooked, chopfinely and mix with alioli (a sauce made from extra virgin olive oil and garlic). Fillthe potato with the mixture, cover with more alioli, brown quickly under the grilland decorate with soft-fried onion and a little meat sauce.

Prepared by: Méli Mélo

Marinated Teruel rib of pork(Costilla adobada de cerdode Teruel)Salt the whole pork rib cage, adding pimentón andcrushed garlic to the salt. Leave hanging for a fewweeks. Cut and cook in Bajo Aragón extra virgin oliveoil for 25 minutes. Transfer to earthenware jars tokeep. When prepared this way, meat can be kept forseveral months. It can then be eaten cold, thetraditional way in the Aragonese villages, or it can becut into portions and heated up.

Prepared by: La Jamonería

07-TAPAS ZARAGOZA IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 16:09 P gina 94 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

Especialista en productos derivadosdel cerdo y otras raciones en pequeñoformato La Jamonería es un buen lugarpara apreciar las virtudes de losembutidos y quesos aragoneses, losadobos caseros, las papas arrugadascon mojo picón (plato típicamentecanario compuesto por patatashervidas sin pelar con mucha sal, alque se le añade una salsa a base de ajo,vinagre, cominos, pimentón, aceite deoliva virgen extra, pimienta piconaroja, agua y sal), la brandada debacalao, entre otros, así como deljamón de Teruel con Denominación deOrigen, auténtico estandarte de la casa,ya que es seleccionado personalmente,con una curación de treinta meses ycortado en el momento a cuchillodelante del cliente. Como interventorde todas estas especialidades seencuentra Félix Martínez, cortadorprofesional, cocinero y sumiller, queofrece un servicio más que atento.Por Torrero-La Paz los aficionados altapeo pueden perderse sin problemaspor la Bodega del Tío Jorge, unestablecimiento de los de toda la vida,donde a los lugareños se suma la genteque se desplaza ex profeso desde otrossectores de la ciudad para degustar tapascomo el pisto (fritada de hortalizas) conbonito y huevo de codorniz o el confitde pato con salsa de naranja, con la queganaron en el 2001 el primer premio enel concurso de tapas de Zaragoza. Enraciones trabajan muy bien los mariscos.Junto a este establecimiento, el otro granreferente es Gran Venecia, un localdonde podemos encontrar desdebuenos encurtidos, hasta mariscos, setasy tradicionales fritos, todo ello bienelaborado. Su gran especialidad son lastapas con anchoas y, entre ellas, laespecialidad es la nórdica

(salmuera cubierta de hielo picado,servida con limón).En Actur-La Jota-Jesús, una zona deexpansión geográfica de Zaragoza, estánsurgiendo locales con aire moderno queinvitan a seguir de cerca su evolución.Uno de los decanos de la zona esFausto, de sobra conocido por losvecinos, aunque cada vez son más losparroquianos que acuden procedentesde otros sectores de la ciudad. Losatractivos de este bar, que ocupa unaantigua bodega de venta de vinos conmás de setenta años, son su vermutcasero con sifón y las salmueras, quellegan directamente desde el Cantábrico,con bastante tiempo de curación y buencalibre, y que son cuidadosamentelimpiadas por Encarna, al frente de lacocina. Especialidades de la casa sontambién los calamares.Y en el bar Estrella de la Jota se puededegustar la tapa Fluvi. La mascota de la

Expo se ha apuntado al ritual de la tapay, en su vertiente gastronómica, ofreceun delicioso contraste entre dulce ysalado. La figura de Fluvi, queparticipará en el próximo concurso detapas de Zaragoza, se realiza en unmolde de masa de pizza, que seenriquece con bacón, morcilla, tomate,queso de cabra y una gelatina azul.

Juan Barbacil es periodista, gastrónomoy asesor gastronómico. Coordinador delPlan de Gastronomía del Gobierno deAragón y de la sección de Gastronomíadel Plan de Excelencia Turístico delAyuntamiento de Zaragoza, es tambiénresponsable de gastronomía del Grupo Zen Aragón (editor de El Periódico deAragón) y colabora habitualmente condiversos medios especializados y entidadesrelacionadas con la gastronomía.

referencia por excelencia es elacreditadísimo Hermanos Teresa,destacado por una alta cocina decreación, pero en miniatura. Entre laspropuestas más demandadas destacanlos clásicos, que nunca fallan en labarra: la empanadilla de morcilla dearroz con salsa de pacharán, la tortillaespañola sobre salsa de pimentón ycominos, la croqueta de borraja consabor ahumado, los solomillitosalmendrados con crema de Idiazábal(queso de ovejas Lachas yCarranzanas, que se elabora en el PaísVasco y en Navarra), la fritadaaragonesa (plato elaborado a partir decalabacín, patata, pimientos rojos,tomate, bonito en escabeche, huevo yaceite de oliva virgen extra) concaracoles, alioli gratinado, pimientodel piquillo relleno de gallina alchilindrón o el chipirón relleno consalsa de curry. No obstante, recientes

incorporaciones como el aperitivo deescabeche de sardina con espuma devermut blanco, el pulpo a la gallegasobre crema de patata o el chipirónnegro con sorbito de salmorejocordobés están haciendo furor. Estelocal es un abonado en el podio delconcurso de tapas.Dentro del área Almozara-Delicias elgran referente es Cervino, un popularestablecimiento que cuenta conmuchísimos parroquianos fieles,gracias a una oferta que tiene comoespolones de proa las tapas delonganiza gratinada, musaka griega,morica (empanada de berenjena concrema de morcilla) y los clásicos sesosrebozados.El entorno de la Universidad aloja unbuen número de establecimientos queexponen a diario en sus escaparates susmejores tapas y montaditos. Uno de losreferentes es El Peirón de la Manduca

gracias a pequeños placeres que secomen con cuchillo y tenedor y que sonpreparados al momento. Los clásicosson los peirones (solomillito ibérico condiferentes guarniciones) y el manduco(montadito de pan con jamón ycalabacín frito con brandada de bacalaoal pil-pil -jugos del bacalao y aceite deoliva virgen extra- montado y salsaamericana), premiado en el concurso detapas de la ciudad, que compartenmostrador con otras especialidadescomo las carrilleras con foie, manitascon morcillas, falso fardel de ternasco oel rabo de toro con piñones. En lamisma calle se ubica la Taberna delPescatero, con una oferta gastronómicaque tiene como denominador común elmar, liderada por las afamadas migas(guiso de pan) a la marinera concigalita, los callos de bacalao y lasraciones variadas de todo tipo demariscos: gambas, cigalitas, chipirón…

JoselitoPelar y limpiar totalmente una cigalaentera, quitándole la cabeza y laspatas, de manera que reservamossólo la colita limpia. Rebozar en unamezcla de huevo y corteza de trigomachacada y freír a 160 ºC / 320 ºFdurante unos 15 o 20 minutos. Sacary poner sobre un papel absorbentepara eliminar los restos de aceite.Preparar una salsa con mangomachacado –pasar por el chino– ymayonesa. Servir la colita de cigalacon la salsa al lado para que sea elcomensal el que moje la cigala en lasalsa.

Elaborado por: Pic-Nic

Ravioli de longanizade GrausCocer y enfriar láminas de pasta fresca. Asar en el horno longaniza fresca deGraus, con hierbas aromática, durante unos 15 o 20 minutos. Hacer una cremade patata con 1 kg / 2 1/4 lb de patatas, 1.500 ml / 6 1/2 cup de agua y 500 g /1 lb 2 oz de mantequilla. Mezclar esta crema con la longaniza asada en un robotde cocina a la velocidad justa para evitar que se desarme la longaniza. Una vezunificada, se rellena la pasta del ravioli con ella y se le da forma. Por último, sebaña el ravioli en aceite de albahaca.

Elaborado por: Alta Taberna Pedro Saputo

TAPAS ZARAGOZA_AF II.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 19:12 P gina 96

plenty of salt and served with asauce made of garlic, vinegar,cumin, pimentón, extra virgin oliveoil, hot red pepper, water and salt)and brandade of cod. But the bar isespecially proud of the ham theowner selects personally from theDO Jamón de Teruel, cured for 30months and sliced with skill in thepresence of the customer. At thehelm of the bar is Félix Martínez, aprofessional ham slicer, chef andsommelier, who offers exquisiteservice.In the area of Torrero-La Paz, tapaslovers are in their element at LaBodega del Tío Jorge, an old-styleestablishment where the locals mixwith visitors from other parts of thecity to try tapas such as pisto (avegetable stew) with albacore tunaand quail’s egg, or duck confit withorange sauce, with which they wonfirst prize in the 2001 tapas contestin Zaragoza. Other options areshellfish in individual portions.Close by is Gran Venecia, a baroffering a large selection of tapas,including pickles, shellfish,mushrooms and traditional friedproducts, all of which are carefullyprepared. The main specialty istapas with anchovies, especially thenórdica (an anchovy served withcrushed ice and lemon).Our next port of call is Actur-laJota-Jesús, on the outskirts ofZaragoza, where many modern-looking bars are springing up. Oneof the early arrivals is Fausto, which

is well-known amongst the localsbut is increasingly attracting visitorsfrom other parts. Located in the 70-year-old cellar of a former winewholesaler, the main request is forits homemade vermouth servedwith soda water and its salt fish,direct from the Cantabrian Sea.These are good-sized anchovies,properly cured and carefullycleaned by Encarna in the kitchen.This establishment also specializesin squid.And in the Estrella de la Jota baryou can try a Fluvi. The Expomascot has joined the tapasbandwagon and the result will beparticipating in the next tapascontest in Zaragoza. It is made frompizza dough and offers contrasting

sweet and savory flavors withbacon, morcilla, tomato, goats’cheese and a blue gelatin.

Juan Barbacil is a food writer,gastronome and gastronomic adviser.He coordinates the Aragóngovernment’s Gastronomy Plan andthe Gastronomy Section in the citycouncil’s Tourism Excellence Plan. Heis responsible for gastronomy for theGrupo Z in Aragón (publishers of ElPeriódico de Aragón), and writesregularly for a number of specialistjournals and publishing houses.

96 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 97

smoke-flavored borage croquette,sirloin morsels with almonds andcream of Idiazábal (a ewes’ milkcheese made in the Basque Countryand in Navarre), fritada aragonesa (adish made from zucchini, potato,red peppers, tomato, Albacore tunain pickle sauce, egg and extra virginolive oil) with snails, grilled alioli,piquillo pepper stuffed with hen ina pepper sauce and squid filled withcurry sauce. Some recent creationswhose fame is spreading likewildfire are sardine in a pickle saucewith white vermouth foam,Galician-style octopus on creamedpotato and black squid withCordoban salmorejo. This bar is aregular on the podium at tapascontests.

In the Almozara-Delicias district,the main destination is Cervino, apopular haunt with a regularclientele who come for its grilledlonganiza sausage, Greek moussaka,morica (an eggplant pie withmorcilla cream) and the classicbrains fried in batter.The University district is home to anumber of establishments thatdisplay their best tapas in thewindow. One example is El Peirónde la Manduca, which produces aconstant flow of small dishes to beeaten in the conventional mannerwith a knife and fork. Try theclassic peirones (Ibérico pork sirloinwith different garnishes) or manduco(bread with ham and fried zucchiniwith a brandade of cod in a pilpil

sauce and topped with Americansauce), a prize-winning tapa, or vealcheek with foie gras, trotters withmorcilla, parcel of spring lamb orox tail with pine nuts. Along thesame road is La Taberna delPescatero, which specializes inseafood. Try their sailor-style migas(croutons) with Dublin Bay prawn,salt cod tripe and a selection ofshellfish: shrimp, prawns, squid,etc.The next stop is a bar thatspecializes in small portions of porkproducts. La Jamonería is the idealspot to try out the Aragonesecharcuterie and cheeses, homemademarinades, papas arrugadas con mojopicón (a typical Canary dish madewith unpeeled potatoes cooked with

TASTING TAPAS IN ZARAGOZA

CULINARYFARE

TASTING TAPAS IN ZARAGOZA

CULINARYFARE

JoselitoPeel and clean a whole Dublin Bayprawn, removing the head and claws,so that you are left with only thetrimmed tail. Dip in a mixture of eggand bran and fry at 160ºC / 320ºF for15-20 minutes. Drain on absorbentpaper. Prepare a sauce with crushed,strained mango and mayonnaise.Serve the prawn tail with the sauce toone side for customers to use as a dip.

Prepared by: Pic-Nic

Graus sausage ravioli(Ravioli de longaniza de Graus)Cook sheets of fresh pasta, then leave to cool. Roast fresh Graus sausage withherbs in the oven for 15-20 minutes. Make a cream of potato with 1 kg / 2 1/4 lbpotatoes, 1 1/2 l / 6 1/2 cup water and 500 g / 1 lb 2 oz butter. Mix this creamwith the roast sausage in a Robot but without breaking up the sausage too finely.Place this mixture on the pasta sheets and fold over to form into ravioli. Finally,drizzle with basil oil.

Prepared by: Alta Taberna Pedro Saputo

07-TAPAS ZARAGOZA IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 16:09 P gina 96 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

Especialista en productos derivadosdel cerdo y otras raciones en pequeñoformato La Jamonería es un buen lugarpara apreciar las virtudes de losembutidos y quesos aragoneses, losadobos caseros, las papas arrugadascon mojo picón (plato típicamentecanario compuesto por patatashervidas sin pelar con mucha sal, alque se le añade una salsa a base de ajo,vinagre, cominos, pimentón, aceite deoliva virgen extra, pimienta piconaroja, agua y sal), la brandada debacalao, entre otros, así como deljamón de Teruel con Denominación deOrigen, auténtico estandarte de la casa,ya que es seleccionado personalmente,con una curación de treinta meses ycortado en el momento a cuchillodelante del cliente. Como interventorde todas estas especialidades seencuentra Félix Martínez, cortadorprofesional, cocinero y sumiller, queofrece un servicio más que atento.Por Torrero-La Paz los aficionados altapeo pueden perderse sin problemaspor la Bodega del Tío Jorge, unestablecimiento de los de toda la vida,donde a los lugareños se suma la genteque se desplaza ex profeso desde otrossectores de la ciudad para degustar tapascomo el pisto (fritada de hortalizas) conbonito y huevo de codorniz o el confitde pato con salsa de naranja, con la queganaron en el 2001 el primer premio enel concurso de tapas de Zaragoza. Enraciones trabajan muy bien los mariscos.Junto a este establecimiento, el otro granreferente es Gran Venecia, un localdonde podemos encontrar desdebuenos encurtidos, hasta mariscos, setasy tradicionales fritos, todo ello bienelaborado. Su gran especialidad son lastapas con anchoas y, entre ellas, laespecialidad es la nórdica

(salmuera cubierta de hielo picado,servida con limón).En Actur-La Jota-Jesús, una zona deexpansión geográfica de Zaragoza, estánsurgiendo locales con aire moderno queinvitan a seguir de cerca su evolución.Uno de los decanos de la zona esFausto, de sobra conocido por losvecinos, aunque cada vez son más losparroquianos que acuden procedentesde otros sectores de la ciudad. Losatractivos de este bar, que ocupa unaantigua bodega de venta de vinos conmás de setenta años, son su vermutcasero con sifón y las salmueras, quellegan directamente desde el Cantábrico,con bastante tiempo de curación y buencalibre, y que son cuidadosamentelimpiadas por Encarna, al frente de lacocina. Especialidades de la casa sontambién los calamares.Y en el bar Estrella de la Jota se puededegustar la tapa Fluvi. La mascota de la

Expo se ha apuntado al ritual de la tapay, en su vertiente gastronómica, ofreceun delicioso contraste entre dulce ysalado. La figura de Fluvi, queparticipará en el próximo concurso detapas de Zaragoza, se realiza en unmolde de masa de pizza, que seenriquece con bacón, morcilla, tomate,queso de cabra y una gelatina azul.

Juan Barbacil es periodista, gastrónomoy asesor gastronómico. Coordinador delPlan de Gastronomía del Gobierno deAragón y de la sección de Gastronomíadel Plan de Excelencia Turístico delAyuntamiento de Zaragoza, es tambiénresponsable de gastronomía del Grupo Zen Aragón (editor de El Periódico deAragón) y colabora habitualmente condiversos medios especializados y entidadesrelacionadas con la gastronomía.

referencia por excelencia es elacreditadísimo Hermanos Teresa,destacado por una alta cocina decreación, pero en miniatura. Entre laspropuestas más demandadas destacanlos clásicos, que nunca fallan en labarra: la empanadilla de morcilla dearroz con salsa de pacharán, la tortillaespañola sobre salsa de pimentón ycominos, la croqueta de borraja consabor ahumado, los solomillitosalmendrados con crema de Idiazábal(queso de ovejas Lachas yCarranzanas, que se elabora en el PaísVasco y en Navarra), la fritadaaragonesa (plato elaborado a partir decalabacín, patata, pimientos rojos,tomate, bonito en escabeche, huevo yaceite de oliva virgen extra) concaracoles, alioli gratinado, pimientodel piquillo relleno de gallina alchilindrón o el chipirón relleno consalsa de curry. No obstante, recientes

incorporaciones como el aperitivo deescabeche de sardina con espuma devermut blanco, el pulpo a la gallegasobre crema de patata o el chipirónnegro con sorbito de salmorejocordobés están haciendo furor. Estelocal es un abonado en el podio delconcurso de tapas.Dentro del área Almozara-Delicias elgran referente es Cervino, un popularestablecimiento que cuenta conmuchísimos parroquianos fieles,gracias a una oferta que tiene comoespolones de proa las tapas delonganiza gratinada, musaka griega,morica (empanada de berenjena concrema de morcilla) y los clásicos sesosrebozados.El entorno de la Universidad aloja unbuen número de establecimientos queexponen a diario en sus escaparates susmejores tapas y montaditos. Uno de losreferentes es El Peirón de la Manduca

gracias a pequeños placeres que secomen con cuchillo y tenedor y que sonpreparados al momento. Los clásicosson los peirones (solomillito ibérico condiferentes guarniciones) y el manduco(montadito de pan con jamón ycalabacín frito con brandada de bacalaoal pil-pil -jugos del bacalao y aceite deoliva virgen extra- montado y salsaamericana), premiado en el concurso detapas de la ciudad, que compartenmostrador con otras especialidadescomo las carrilleras con foie, manitascon morcillas, falso fardel de ternasco oel rabo de toro con piñones. En lamisma calle se ubica la Taberna delPescatero, con una oferta gastronómicaque tiene como denominador común elmar, liderada por las afamadas migas(guiso de pan) a la marinera concigalita, los callos de bacalao y lasraciones variadas de todo tipo demariscos: gambas, cigalitas, chipirón…

JoselitoPelar y limpiar totalmente una cigalaentera, quitándole la cabeza y laspatas, de manera que reservamossólo la colita limpia. Rebozar en unamezcla de huevo y corteza de trigomachacada y freír a 160 ºC / 320 ºFdurante unos 15 o 20 minutos. Sacary poner sobre un papel absorbentepara eliminar los restos de aceite.Preparar una salsa con mangomachacado –pasar por el chino– ymayonesa. Servir la colita de cigalacon la salsa al lado para que sea elcomensal el que moje la cigala en lasalsa.

Elaborado por: Pic-Nic

Ravioli de longanizade GrausCocer y enfriar láminas de pasta fresca. Asar en el horno longaniza fresca deGraus, con hierbas aromática, durante unos 15 o 20 minutos. Hacer una cremade patata con 1 kg / 2 1/4 lb de patatas, 1.500 ml / 6 1/2 cup de agua y 500 g /1 lb 2 oz de mantequilla. Mezclar esta crema con la longaniza asada en un robotde cocina a la velocidad justa para evitar que se desarme la longaniza. Una vezunificada, se rellena la pasta del ravioli con ella y se le da forma. Por último, sebaña el ravioli en aceite de albahaca.

Elaborado por: Alta Taberna Pedro Saputo

TAPAS ZARAGOZA_AF II.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 19:12 P gina 96

plenty of salt and served with asauce made of garlic, vinegar,cumin, pimentón, extra virgin oliveoil, hot red pepper, water and salt)and brandade of cod. But the bar isespecially proud of the ham theowner selects personally from theDO Jamón de Teruel, cured for 30months and sliced with skill in thepresence of the customer. At thehelm of the bar is Félix Martínez, aprofessional ham slicer, chef andsommelier, who offers exquisiteservice.In the area of Torrero-La Paz, tapaslovers are in their element at LaBodega del Tío Jorge, an old-styleestablishment where the locals mixwith visitors from other parts of thecity to try tapas such as pisto (avegetable stew) with albacore tunaand quail’s egg, or duck confit withorange sauce, with which they wonfirst prize in the 2001 tapas contestin Zaragoza. Other options areshellfish in individual portions.Close by is Gran Venecia, a baroffering a large selection of tapas,including pickles, shellfish,mushrooms and traditional friedproducts, all of which are carefullyprepared. The main specialty istapas with anchovies, especially thenórdica (an anchovy served withcrushed ice and lemon).Our next port of call is Actur-laJota-Jesús, on the outskirts ofZaragoza, where many modern-looking bars are springing up. Oneof the early arrivals is Fausto, which

is well-known amongst the localsbut is increasingly attracting visitorsfrom other parts. Located in the 70-year-old cellar of a former winewholesaler, the main request is forits homemade vermouth servedwith soda water and its salt fish,direct from the Cantabrian Sea.These are good-sized anchovies,properly cured and carefullycleaned by Encarna in the kitchen.This establishment also specializesin squid.And in the Estrella de la Jota baryou can try a Fluvi. The Expomascot has joined the tapasbandwagon and the result will beparticipating in the next tapascontest in Zaragoza. It is made frompizza dough and offers contrasting

sweet and savory flavors withbacon, morcilla, tomato, goats’cheese and a blue gelatin.

Juan Barbacil is a food writer,gastronome and gastronomic adviser.He coordinates the Aragóngovernment’s Gastronomy Plan andthe Gastronomy Section in the citycouncil’s Tourism Excellence Plan. Heis responsible for gastronomy for theGrupo Z in Aragón (publishers of ElPeriódico de Aragón), and writesregularly for a number of specialistjournals and publishing houses.

96 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 97

smoke-flavored borage croquette,sirloin morsels with almonds andcream of Idiazábal (a ewes’ milkcheese made in the Basque Countryand in Navarre), fritada aragonesa (adish made from zucchini, potato,red peppers, tomato, Albacore tunain pickle sauce, egg and extra virginolive oil) with snails, grilled alioli,piquillo pepper stuffed with hen ina pepper sauce and squid filled withcurry sauce. Some recent creationswhose fame is spreading likewildfire are sardine in a pickle saucewith white vermouth foam,Galician-style octopus on creamedpotato and black squid withCordoban salmorejo. This bar is aregular on the podium at tapascontests.

In the Almozara-Delicias district,the main destination is Cervino, apopular haunt with a regularclientele who come for its grilledlonganiza sausage, Greek moussaka,morica (an eggplant pie withmorcilla cream) and the classicbrains fried in batter.The University district is home to anumber of establishments thatdisplay their best tapas in thewindow. One example is El Peirónde la Manduca, which produces aconstant flow of small dishes to beeaten in the conventional mannerwith a knife and fork. Try theclassic peirones (Ibérico pork sirloinwith different garnishes) or manduco(bread with ham and fried zucchiniwith a brandade of cod in a pilpil

sauce and topped with Americansauce), a prize-winning tapa, or vealcheek with foie gras, trotters withmorcilla, parcel of spring lamb orox tail with pine nuts. Along thesame road is La Taberna delPescatero, which specializes inseafood. Try their sailor-style migas(croutons) with Dublin Bay prawn,salt cod tripe and a selection ofshellfish: shrimp, prawns, squid,etc.The next stop is a bar thatspecializes in small portions of porkproducts. La Jamonería is the idealspot to try out the Aragonesecharcuterie and cheeses, homemademarinades, papas arrugadas con mojopicón (a typical Canary dish madewith unpeeled potatoes cooked with

TASTING TAPAS IN ZARAGOZA

CULINARYFARE

TASTING TAPAS IN ZARAGOZA

CULINARYFARE

JoselitoPeel and clean a whole Dublin Bayprawn, removing the head and claws,so that you are left with only thetrimmed tail. Dip in a mixture of eggand bran and fry at 160ºC / 320ºF for15-20 minutes. Drain on absorbentpaper. Prepare a sauce with crushed,strained mango and mayonnaise.Serve the prawn tail with the sauce toone side for customers to use as a dip.

Prepared by: Pic-Nic

Graus sausage ravioli(Ravioli de longaniza de Graus)Cook sheets of fresh pasta, then leave to cool. Roast fresh Graus sausage withherbs in the oven for 15-20 minutes. Make a cream of potato with 1 kg / 2 1/4 lbpotatoes, 1 1/2 l / 6 1/2 cup water and 500 g / 1 lb 2 oz butter. Mix this creamwith the roast sausage in a Robot but without breaking up the sausage too finely.Place this mixture on the pasta sheets and fold over to form into ravioli. Finally,drizzle with basil oil.

Prepared by: Alta Taberna Pedro Saputo

07-TAPAS ZARAGOZA IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 16:09 P gina 96 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

www.gastronomia-aragonesa.comSitio web del Gobierno de Aragón dedicado a la gastronomía regional, con unamplio espacio dedicado a las tapas en las tres provincias aragonesas, conplanos de zonas y referencias a establecimientos, con direcciones, teléfonos,especialidades, días de cierre, etc. (Español)

www.redaragon.com/gastronomia/restaurantesPortal aragonés muy completo con información amplia sobre gastronomía,restaurantes, bares y rutas de tapas, en todas las localidades aragonesas.Recomienda periódicamente restaurantes y ofrece propuestas de rutas parasalir a tapear. (Español)

www.atapear.comWeb dedicada al mundo de las tapas, con información sobre la historia de latapa, una guía de más de 1.500 establecimientos en toda España, recetas yconsejos para los aficionados. (Español)

http://cmisapp.zaragoza.es/ciudad/turismo/Web oficial de Turismo del Ayuntamiento de Zaragoza, con informacióncompleta y actualizada sobre visitas turísticas, servicios, actividades y noticias.(Alemán, español, francés, inglés, italiano)

http://zaragozaturismo.dpz.es/Web del Patronato de Turismo de la Diputación Provincial de Zaragoza, contodo tipo de información sobre ocio, alojamientos, oficinas de turismo, museos,restaurantes, actividades culturales y noticias. (Español)

www.turismodearagon.comWeb oficial de Turismo del Gobierno de Aragón, con información detallada queabarca todos los aspectos imaginables de la comunidad. (Español, francés,inglés)

www.zaragoza-ciudad.com/turismo/index.htmSitio web con lugares de interés, comercio, servicios, bares, restaurantes, pubs,rutas de ocio y gastronomía e información sobre la Expo 2008. (Español)

Centro-CascoHistóricoCafé BabelZurita, 2150001 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 225 449

Vinos BoleFrancisco de Vitoria, 350008 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 223 016info@vinosbole.com

Condolías TascaZurita, 1750001 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 221 418

Condolías El TuboEstébanes, 950003 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 396 465

Los VitorinosJosé de la Hera, 650001 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 394 213

Alta Taberna PedroSaputoAntonio Agustín, 1950002 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 293 144

Casa LuisRomea, 850002 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 291 167

Casa PedroCadena, 650001 ZaragozaTel.:(+34) 976 291 168

Antigua Casa ParicioCoso, 18850002 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 293 341

Méli MéloMayor, 4550001 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 294 695

Las PalomasPlaza del Pilar, 1650003 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 392 366www.restaurantelaspalomas.com

Gran Vía-Sagasta

Antiguo ParaísoDato, 450005 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 221 107

MarlyGran Vía, 5050005 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 212 958

Pic-NicLaguna de Rins, 1050005 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 210 402

Café de LevanteAlmagro, 450004 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 223 676

TxocoDoctor Horno, 2650004 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 211 554

San José - LasFuentesHermanos TeresaGeneral Ricardos, 1150013 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 425 212

Torrero-La Paz

La Bodega del TíoJorgeMesones de Isuela, 5050007 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 275 107

Gran VeneciaAntonio Adrados, 2250007 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 377 951

Almoraza-DeliciasCervinoAinzón, 1850003 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 434 777

UniversidadEl Peirón de laManducaBruno Solano, 450006 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 557 255

La Taberna delPescateroBruno Solano, 650006 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 550 438

La JamoneríaBruno Solano, 1650006 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 566 268

Actur-La Jota-Jesús

FaustoJesús, 2650014 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 293 268

La EstrellaPascuala Perie, 250014 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 291 133

Rutas de tapas en Zaragoza

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98 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 99

www.gastronomia-aragonesa.comThe goverment of Aragón’s website dedicated to regional gastronomy, with anextensive section on tapas in the three provinces of Aragón and with streetmaps. The references to establishments include addresses, telephonenumbers, specialties, closing days, etc. (Spanish)

www.redaragon.com/gastronomia/restaurantesA very thorough portal on gastronomy, restaurants, bars and tapas routes in allparts of Aragón. Some recommended restaurants and suggested tapas routes.(Spanish)

www.atapear.comWebsite on the world of tapas, with information on the history of tapas, a guideto over 1,500 establishments all over Spain, recipes and advice for tapasaddicts. (Spanish)

http://cmisapp.zaragoza.es/ciudad/turismo/The city council of Zaragoza’s official website, with full, up-to-date informationon tourist routes, services, activities and news. (English, French, German,Italian, Spanish)

http://zaragozaturismo.dpz.es/Website for the Zaragoza provincial government tourism office, with all sorts ofinformation on leisure activities, accommodation, tourist offices, museums,restaurants, cultural activities and news. (Spanish)

www.turismodearagon.comOfficial website for the Aragón government tourism office, with detailedinformation on regional matters. (English, French, Spanish)

www.zaragoza-ciudad.com/turismo/index.htmWebsite on places of interest, shops, services, bars, restaurants, pubs, touristand gastronomic routes and information on Expo 2008. (Spanish)

W E B S I T E S

La Seo

Lonja

EbroRiver

SantiagoBridge Piedra

Bridge

PilarBridge

1 km / 0.62 mi

AragónSquare

BruilPark

PilarSquare

Bullring

PilarBasílica

City Hall

ProvincialMuseum

Regional Councilof Aragón

AljaferiaPalace

UniversityCampus

1- Center – Historic Quarter2- Gran Vía-Sagasta3- San José-Las Fuentes4- Almozara-Delicias5- University6- Torrero-La Paz7- Actur-La Jota-Jesús

Center-HistoricQuarterCafé BabelZurita, 2150001 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 225 449

Vinos BoleFrancisco de Vitoria, 350008 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 223 016info@vinosbole.com

Condolías TascaZurita, 1750001 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 221 418

Condolías El TuboEstébanes, 950003 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 396 465

Los VitorinosJosé de la Hera, 650001 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 394 213

Alta Taberna PedroSaputoAntonio Agustín, 1950002 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 293 144

Casa LuisRomea, 850002 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 291 167

Casa PedroCadena, 650001 ZaragozaTel:(+34) 976 291 168

Antigua Casa ParicioCoso, 18850002 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 293 341

Méli MéloMayor, 4550001 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 294 695

Las PalomasPlaza del Pilar, 1650003 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 392 366www.restaurante/laspalomas.com

Gran Vía-Sagasta

Antiguo ParaísoDato, 450005 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 221 107

MarlyGran Vía, 5050005 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 212 958

Pic-NicLaguna de Rins, 1050005 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 210 402

Café de LevanteAlmagro, 450004 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 223 676

TxocoDoctor Horno, 2650004 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 211 554

San José-LasFuentesHermanos TeresaGeneral Ricardos, 1150013 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 425 212

Torrero-La PazLa Bodega del TíoJorgeMesones de Isuela, 5050007 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 275 107

Gran VeneciaAntonio Adrados, 2250007 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 377 951

Almoraza-DeliciasCervinoAinzón, 1850003 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 434 777

UniversityEl Peirón de laManducaBruno Solano, 450006 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 557 255

La Taberna delPescateroBruno Solano, 650006 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 550 438

La JamoneríaBruno Solano, 1650006 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 566 268

Actur-La Jota-Jesús

FaustoJesús, 2650014 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 293 268

La EstrellaPascuala Perie, 250014 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 291 133

Tapas routes in Zaragoza

07-TAPAS ZARAGOZA IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 30/11/07 05:18 P gina 98 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

www.gastronomia-aragonesa.comSitio web del Gobierno de Aragón dedicado a la gastronomía regional, con unamplio espacio dedicado a las tapas en las tres provincias aragonesas, conplanos de zonas y referencias a establecimientos, con direcciones, teléfonos,especialidades, días de cierre, etc. (Español)

www.redaragon.com/gastronomia/restaurantesPortal aragonés muy completo con información amplia sobre gastronomía,restaurantes, bares y rutas de tapas, en todas las localidades aragonesas.Recomienda periódicamente restaurantes y ofrece propuestas de rutas parasalir a tapear. (Español)

www.atapear.comWeb dedicada al mundo de las tapas, con información sobre la historia de latapa, una guía de más de 1.500 establecimientos en toda España, recetas yconsejos para los aficionados. (Español)

http://cmisapp.zaragoza.es/ciudad/turismo/Web oficial de Turismo del Ayuntamiento de Zaragoza, con informacióncompleta y actualizada sobre visitas turísticas, servicios, actividades y noticias.(Alemán, español, francés, inglés, italiano)

http://zaragozaturismo.dpz.es/Web del Patronato de Turismo de la Diputación Provincial de Zaragoza, contodo tipo de información sobre ocio, alojamientos, oficinas de turismo, museos,restaurantes, actividades culturales y noticias. (Español)

www.turismodearagon.comWeb oficial de Turismo del Gobierno de Aragón, con información detallada queabarca todos los aspectos imaginables de la comunidad. (Español, francés,inglés)

www.zaragoza-ciudad.com/turismo/index.htmSitio web con lugares de interés, comercio, servicios, bares, restaurantes, pubs,rutas de ocio y gastronomía e información sobre la Expo 2008. (Español)

Centro-CascoHistóricoCafé BabelZurita, 2150001 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 225 449

Vinos BoleFrancisco de Vitoria, 350008 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 223 016info@vinosbole.com

Condolías TascaZurita, 1750001 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 221 418

Condolías El TuboEstébanes, 950003 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 396 465

Los VitorinosJosé de la Hera, 650001 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 394 213

Alta Taberna PedroSaputoAntonio Agustín, 1950002 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 293 144

Casa LuisRomea, 850002 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 291 167

Casa PedroCadena, 650001 ZaragozaTel.:(+34) 976 291 168

Antigua Casa ParicioCoso, 18850002 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 293 341

Méli MéloMayor, 4550001 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 294 695

Las PalomasPlaza del Pilar, 1650003 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 392 366www.restaurantelaspalomas.com

Gran Vía-Sagasta

Antiguo ParaísoDato, 450005 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 221 107

MarlyGran Vía, 5050005 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 212 958

Pic-NicLaguna de Rins, 1050005 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 210 402

Café de LevanteAlmagro, 450004 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 223 676

TxocoDoctor Horno, 2650004 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 211 554

San José - LasFuentesHermanos TeresaGeneral Ricardos, 1150013 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 425 212

Torrero-La Paz

La Bodega del TíoJorgeMesones de Isuela, 5050007 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 275 107

Gran VeneciaAntonio Adrados, 2250007 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 377 951

Almoraza-DeliciasCervinoAinzón, 1850003 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 434 777

UniversidadEl Peirón de laManducaBruno Solano, 450006 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 557 255

La Taberna delPescateroBruno Solano, 650006 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 550 438

La JamoneríaBruno Solano, 1650006 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 566 268

Actur-La Jota-Jesús

FaustoJesús, 2650014 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 293 268

La EstrellaPascuala Perie, 250014 ZaragozaTel.: (+34) 976 291 133

Rutas de tapas en Zaragoza

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98 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 99

www.gastronomia-aragonesa.comThe goverment of Aragón’s website dedicated to regional gastronomy, with anextensive section on tapas in the three provinces of Aragón and with streetmaps. The references to establishments include addresses, telephonenumbers, specialties, closing days, etc. (Spanish)

www.redaragon.com/gastronomia/restaurantesA very thorough portal on gastronomy, restaurants, bars and tapas routes in allparts of Aragón. Some recommended restaurants and suggested tapas routes.(Spanish)

www.atapear.comWebsite on the world of tapas, with information on the history of tapas, a guideto over 1,500 establishments all over Spain, recipes and advice for tapasaddicts. (Spanish)

http://cmisapp.zaragoza.es/ciudad/turismo/The city council of Zaragoza’s official website, with full, up-to-date informationon tourist routes, services, activities and news. (English, French, German,Italian, Spanish)

http://zaragozaturismo.dpz.es/Website for the Zaragoza provincial government tourism office, with all sorts ofinformation on leisure activities, accommodation, tourist offices, museums,restaurants, cultural activities and news. (Spanish)

www.turismodearagon.comOfficial website for the Aragón government tourism office, with detailedinformation on regional matters. (English, French, Spanish)

www.zaragoza-ciudad.com/turismo/index.htmWebsite on places of interest, shops, services, bars, restaurants, pubs, touristand gastronomic routes and information on Expo 2008. (Spanish)

W E B S I T E S

La Seo

Lonja

EbroRiver

SantiagoBridge Piedra

Bridge

PilarBridge

1 km / 0.62 mi

AragónSquare

BruilPark

PilarSquare

Bullring

PilarBasílica

City Hall

ProvincialMuseum

Regional Councilof Aragón

AljaferiaPalace

UniversityCampus

1- Center – Historic Quarter2- Gran Vía-Sagasta3- San José-Las Fuentes4- Almozara-Delicias5- University6- Torrero-La Paz7- Actur-La Jota-Jesús

Center-HistoricQuarterCafé BabelZurita, 2150001 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 225 449

Vinos BoleFrancisco de Vitoria, 350008 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 223 016info@vinosbole.com

Condolías TascaZurita, 1750001 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 221 418

Condolías El TuboEstébanes, 950003 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 396 465

Los VitorinosJosé de la Hera, 650001 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 394 213

Alta Taberna PedroSaputoAntonio Agustín, 1950002 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 293 144

Casa LuisRomea, 850002 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 291 167

Casa PedroCadena, 650001 ZaragozaTel:(+34) 976 291 168

Antigua Casa ParicioCoso, 18850002 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 293 341

Méli MéloMayor, 4550001 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 294 695

Las PalomasPlaza del Pilar, 1650003 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 392 366www.restaurante/laspalomas.com

Gran Vía-Sagasta

Antiguo ParaísoDato, 450005 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 221 107

MarlyGran Vía, 5050005 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 212 958

Pic-NicLaguna de Rins, 1050005 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 210 402

Café de LevanteAlmagro, 450004 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 223 676

TxocoDoctor Horno, 2650004 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 211 554

San José-LasFuentesHermanos TeresaGeneral Ricardos, 1150013 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 425 212

Torrero-La PazLa Bodega del TíoJorgeMesones de Isuela, 5050007 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 275 107

Gran VeneciaAntonio Adrados, 2250007 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 377 951

Almoraza-DeliciasCervinoAinzón, 1850003 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 434 777

UniversityEl Peirón de laManducaBruno Solano, 450006 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 557 255

La Taberna delPescateroBruno Solano, 650006 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 550 438

La JamoneríaBruno Solano, 1650006 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 566 268

Actur-La Jota-Jesús

FaustoJesús, 2650014 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 293 268

La EstrellaPascuala Perie, 250014 ZaragozaTel: (+34) 976 291 133

Tapas routes in Zaragoza

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GRANADAS_AF.qxd 15/11/07 22:32 Página 100

An increasingly common sight in our supermarkets,

the world’s total area given over to their cultivation

is growing exponentially year on year, as is the

number of Google entries and column inches

devoted to them in the press. Catapulted to stardom

thanks to their health-giving properties,

pomegranates are the 21st century’s latest must-have

product. Yet our love affair with the pomegranate

dates back a very long way indeed: some even

believe that this was the forbidden fruit

disobediently picked by Eve. We are off to the

Alicante coast, famous as a tourist magnet and now

also the epicenter of Europe’s pomegranate

production. Our mission is to look into the

credentials of the world’s sweetest pomegranate:

Mollar de Elche, which is grown exclusively in the

Spanish countryside.

other fruit

EDEN

’S

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GRANADAS_AF.qxd 15/11/07 22:32 Página 100

An increasingly common sight in our supermarkets,

the world’s total area given over to their cultivation

is growing exponentially year on year, as is the

number of Google entries and column inches

devoted to them in the press. Catapulted to stardom

thanks to their health-giving properties,

pomegranates are the 21st century’s latest must-have

product. Yet our love affair with the pomegranate

dates back a very long way indeed: some even

believe that this was the forbidden fruit

disobediently picked by Eve. We are off to the

Alicante coast, famous as a tourist magnet and now

also the epicenter of Europe’s pomegranate

production. Our mission is to look into the

credentials of the world’s sweetest pomegranate:

Mollar de Elche, which is grown exclusively in the

Spanish countryside.

other fruit

EDEN

’S08-GRANADAS IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 17:36 P gina 100 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

“Se adivina la ciudad de Elche a travésde las palmeras que cubren todo sutérmino. Uno se cree, por unmomento, trasladado a las llanuras deSiria o a las orillas del Delta”. Laspalabras del viajero francés Alexandrede Laborde nos sirven de guía inclusodos siglos después de ser escritas, yaunque hoy en día los edificiossalpican irremediablemente el paisaje,esta ciudad de la costa mediterránea–pequeño gigante de la producciónmundial de granada– sigue destilandoun marcado acento andalusí. Supalmeral, Patrimonio de la Humanidaddesde el año 2000, nos habla de lalucha del hombre contra loselementos, de su esfuerzo portransformar un entorno hostil y áridoen una tierra fértil. Los colonizadoresislámicos trajeron a la penínsulaIbérica sus conocimientos ancestralessobre el oasis, o lo que es lo mismo, unsistema sostenible y revolucionario deregadío orientado a la horticulturaintensiva. Y así, gracias al microclimabenigno propiciado por hileras depalmeras, pudieron cultivar árbolesfrutales y plantas desconocidas hasta lafecha en el mundo cristiano. Entretodas ellas, la granada se ganó, desdeel principio, el favor del sultán, o al

menos así lo relata Ibn Said, respetadocronista de la época: “Abd al Rahmán Iplantó semillas extrañas que le habíantraído sus embajadores en Siria, quedieron curiosos frutos. El monarcaquedó maravillado ante la hermosura ybelleza de la granada y la difundió portodos los confines de al-Andalus”.Este legado árabe encontró en la costalevantina su segundo hogar. Aquellosprimeros granados se adaptaron sinproblemas al clima cálido delmediterráneo, al suelo salino y a lasescasas precipitaciones de esta partedel globo. Y aunque con el transcurrirde los siglos nadie sabe con certezaqué transformaciones genéticaspropiciaron, lo cierto es que las dosvariedades actuales del campo español,la granada valenciana y la mollar deElche, solo viven aquí.Cultivada en nuestros días a lo largo yancho del mundo, la granada iniciabasu particular historia en Asiaoccidental varios milenios atrás. DesdeIrán hasta el norte de la India, elgranado fue sembrado por diversascivilizaciones, empezando por laegipcia –su fruto aparece representadoen la tumba del faraón Ramsés IV– yseguida por la fenicia. Tras hacersefuerte en la península Ibérica bajo

dominio musulmán, cruzó el charcohacia América en los barcos de losmisioneros españoles que ladifundieron junto a su fe, en el estadode California. No obstante, el últimocapítulo de esta pacífica conquista estáaún por escribir. El imperio de lagranada extiende cada día sus límitescon diferentes variedades en cadacontinente. Localizamos la más dulcede todas ellas en el Levante español.

Vergel milenario“Uf, estos árboles llevan aquí desdesiempre. Tiras una semilla al suelo y tecrece un granado”. Uno solo tiene quedarse una vuelta por el territorio quese extiende entre Elche y Albatera, enel sur de la provincia de Alicante, paracertificar esta máxima de la sabiduríapopular local. Los campos de granadosconviven con otros de naranjos en unhorizonte llano que posee, sinembargo –emulando la silueta deManhhatan–, un skyline de vértigo: elde las majestuosas palmerascentenarias que se intercalan entrecultivos. Estamos en el valle delVinalopó, una zona de vegas y huertasenmarcada por las tranquilas aguas delMediterráneo al este, y por las

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102 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

“The city of Elche can be recognizedthrough the date palms that cover itsentire district. (...) For a moment,one believes himself to betransported to the plains of Syria orto the shores of the Delta.” Thewords of the French travelerAlexandre de Laborde still applyeven 200 years later. Despite thebuildings that now inevitablypunctuate its present-day landscape,this Mediterranean coastal town–alittle powerhouse of worldpomegranate production–still has adistinct look of Al-Andalus about it.Its Palmeral was declared a WorldHeritage Site in 2000: this area offormally laid-out date palm groves isan eloquent example of man’s battleagainst the elements to transform ahostile, arid environment into fertileland. The Islamic colonizers of theIberian Peninsula brought with themtheir traditional mastery of the oasisprinciple: this amounted to asustainable, revolutionary irrigationsystem for carrying out intensivehorticulture. Rows of date palmshelped create a benign microclimate,making it possible to grow fruit treesand other plants previouslyunknown in the Christian world.Among these was the pomegranate,

which soon became the sultan’sfavorite. As Ibn Said, respectedchronicler of the period, records:“Abd al Rahman I planted strangeseeds brought to him from Syria byhis ambassadors, which bore curiousfruits. The monarch was delightedby the loveliness and beauty of thepomegranate and disseminated it thelength and breadth of al-Andalus.”This Arab legacy found a secondhome on Spain’s east coast. Thoseearly pomegranates adapted readilyto the hot Mediterranean climate,saline soil and scant rainfallcharacteristic of this part of theworld. While the genetic changesthey have undergone through thecenturies have not been preciselyidentified, the two varieties currentlygrown in the Spanish countryside,Valenciana and Mollar de Elche, areknown to be exclusive to this area.Though they are grown all over theworld nowadays, the history ofpomegranates stretches back severalmillennia to western Asia. From Iranto northern India, pomegranateswere cultivated by variouscivilizations, starting with theEgyptians–a picture of apomegranate adorns the tomb ofRameses IV–and subsequently the

Phoenicians. Having become firmlyestablished on the Iberian Peninsulaunder Arab domination, they crossedthe Atlantic to the Americas on theships of Spanish missionaries whodisseminated them, along with theirreligion, in the state of California. Itis a story of peaceful conquest whosefinal chapter has yet to be written.As we speak, different varieties ofpomegranate are extending theirdomain on every continent. Wetracked down the sweetest of the lotto the costal area of eastern Spainknown as El Levante.

Thousand-yearold orchards“These trees have been here forever!You have only to drop a seed on theground and a pomegranate treegrows.” A wander around the areathat lies between Elche and Albatera,in the south of the Alicante province,is enough to reveal the truth behindthis nugget of local folk wisdom.Fields of pomegranates and orangesstretch as far as the horizon in a flatexpanse nevertheless endowed witha spectacularly dizzying skylineworthy of Manhattan, with majestic,

POMEGRANATES

FOODBASICS

TEXTCELIA HERNANDO

TRANSLATIONHAWYS PRITCHARD

PHOTOSTOYA LEGIDO/ICEXTOMÁS ZARZA/ICEX

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“Se adivina la ciudad de Elche a travésde las palmeras que cubren todo sutérmino. Uno se cree, por unmomento, trasladado a las llanuras deSiria o a las orillas del Delta”. Laspalabras del viajero francés Alexandrede Laborde nos sirven de guía inclusodos siglos después de ser escritas, yaunque hoy en día los edificiossalpican irremediablemente el paisaje,esta ciudad de la costa mediterránea–pequeño gigante de la producciónmundial de granada– sigue destilandoun marcado acento andalusí. Supalmeral, Patrimonio de la Humanidaddesde el año 2000, nos habla de lalucha del hombre contra loselementos, de su esfuerzo portransformar un entorno hostil y áridoen una tierra fértil. Los colonizadoresislámicos trajeron a la penínsulaIbérica sus conocimientos ancestralessobre el oasis, o lo que es lo mismo, unsistema sostenible y revolucionario deregadío orientado a la horticulturaintensiva. Y así, gracias al microclimabenigno propiciado por hileras depalmeras, pudieron cultivar árbolesfrutales y plantas desconocidas hasta lafecha en el mundo cristiano. Entretodas ellas, la granada se ganó, desdeel principio, el favor del sultán, o al

menos así lo relata Ibn Said, respetadocronista de la época: “Abd al Rahmán Iplantó semillas extrañas que le habíantraído sus embajadores en Siria, quedieron curiosos frutos. El monarcaquedó maravillado ante la hermosura ybelleza de la granada y la difundió portodos los confines de al-Andalus”.Este legado árabe encontró en la costalevantina su segundo hogar. Aquellosprimeros granados se adaptaron sinproblemas al clima cálido delmediterráneo, al suelo salino y a lasescasas precipitaciones de esta partedel globo. Y aunque con el transcurrirde los siglos nadie sabe con certezaqué transformaciones genéticaspropiciaron, lo cierto es que las dosvariedades actuales del campo español,la granada valenciana y la mollar deElche, solo viven aquí.Cultivada en nuestros días a lo largo yancho del mundo, la granada iniciabasu particular historia en Asiaoccidental varios milenios atrás. DesdeIrán hasta el norte de la India, elgranado fue sembrado por diversascivilizaciones, empezando por laegipcia –su fruto aparece representadoen la tumba del faraón Ramsés IV– yseguida por la fenicia. Tras hacersefuerte en la península Ibérica bajo

dominio musulmán, cruzó el charcohacia América en los barcos de losmisioneros españoles que ladifundieron junto a su fe, en el estadode California. No obstante, el últimocapítulo de esta pacífica conquista estáaún por escribir. El imperio de lagranada extiende cada día sus límitescon diferentes variedades en cadacontinente. Localizamos la más dulcede todas ellas en el Levante español.

Vergel milenario“Uf, estos árboles llevan aquí desdesiempre. Tiras una semilla al suelo y tecrece un granado”. Uno solo tiene quedarse una vuelta por el territorio quese extiende entre Elche y Albatera, enel sur de la provincia de Alicante, paracertificar esta máxima de la sabiduríapopular local. Los campos de granadosconviven con otros de naranjos en unhorizonte llano que posee, sinembargo –emulando la silueta deManhhatan–, un skyline de vértigo: elde las majestuosas palmerascentenarias que se intercalan entrecultivos. Estamos en el valle delVinalopó, una zona de vegas y huertasenmarcada por las tranquilas aguas delMediterráneo al este, y por las

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“The city of Elche can be recognizedthrough the date palms that cover itsentire district. (...) For a moment,one believes himself to betransported to the plains of Syria orto the shores of the Delta.” Thewords of the French travelerAlexandre de Laborde still applyeven 200 years later. Despite thebuildings that now inevitablypunctuate its present-day landscape,this Mediterranean coastal town–alittle powerhouse of worldpomegranate production–still has adistinct look of Al-Andalus about it.Its Palmeral was declared a WorldHeritage Site in 2000: this area offormally laid-out date palm groves isan eloquent example of man’s battleagainst the elements to transform ahostile, arid environment into fertileland. The Islamic colonizers of theIberian Peninsula brought with themtheir traditional mastery of the oasisprinciple: this amounted to asustainable, revolutionary irrigationsystem for carrying out intensivehorticulture. Rows of date palmshelped create a benign microclimate,making it possible to grow fruit treesand other plants previouslyunknown in the Christian world.Among these was the pomegranate,

which soon became the sultan’sfavorite. As Ibn Said, respectedchronicler of the period, records:“Abd al Rahman I planted strangeseeds brought to him from Syria byhis ambassadors, which bore curiousfruits. The monarch was delightedby the loveliness and beauty of thepomegranate and disseminated it thelength and breadth of al-Andalus.”This Arab legacy found a secondhome on Spain’s east coast. Thoseearly pomegranates adapted readilyto the hot Mediterranean climate,saline soil and scant rainfallcharacteristic of this part of theworld. While the genetic changesthey have undergone through thecenturies have not been preciselyidentified, the two varieties currentlygrown in the Spanish countryside,Valenciana and Mollar de Elche, areknown to be exclusive to this area.Though they are grown all over theworld nowadays, the history ofpomegranates stretches back severalmillennia to western Asia. From Iranto northern India, pomegranateswere cultivated by variouscivilizations, starting with theEgyptians–a picture of apomegranate adorns the tomb ofRameses IV–and subsequently the

Phoenicians. Having become firmlyestablished on the Iberian Peninsulaunder Arab domination, they crossedthe Atlantic to the Americas on theships of Spanish missionaries whodisseminated them, along with theirreligion, in the state of California. Itis a story of peaceful conquest whosefinal chapter has yet to be written.As we speak, different varieties ofpomegranate are extending theirdomain on every continent. Wetracked down the sweetest of the lotto the costal area of eastern Spainknown as El Levante.

Thousand-yearold orchards“These trees have been here forever!You have only to drop a seed on theground and a pomegranate treegrows.” A wander around the areathat lies between Elche and Albatera,in the south of the Alicante province,is enough to reveal the truth behindthis nugget of local folk wisdom.Fields of pomegranates and orangesstretch as far as the horizon in a flatexpanse nevertheless endowed witha spectacularly dizzying skylineworthy of Manhattan, with majestic,

POMEGRANATES

FOODBASICS

TEXTCELIA HERNANDO

TRANSLATIONHAWYS PRITCHARD

PHOTOSTOYA LEGIDO/ICEXTOMÁS ZARZA/ICEX

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patrolling the plot. “He knows itlike the back of his hand.”Sounds of lively activity from anearby plot attract our attention. Agroup of day laborers has alreadystarted picking reddened Valencianavariety pomegranates. They tell methat of the two types grown in Spain,this is the first to ripen, flushing pink-to-red before the other. It is earlySeptember and the sun is still hot, butthe team of workers–parents,children, cousins, friends–are,without exception, wearing longsleeves. “Whether it’s pelting with rainor blazing hot, this outfit is essential,otherwise, by the end of the day yourarms are covered in scratches,”explains one of them, demonstratingthe reason why. The pomegranatetree, variously categorized as a smalltree or a tall shrub, conceals sharpthorns on the ends of its branches. Itsthorny nature and deep red flowers(known as jullanâr, and oftencelebrated by Arab and Persian poets)are characteristics that it shares withthe rose.The pomegranate blossom wasreplaced months ago by the fruitsthat now, in September, fill the

harvesters’ crates. This first pickingof Valenciana pomegranates serves asa warm-up for another, later andperhaps more eagerly awaitedharvest of the Mollar de Elchevariety, unchallenged monarch of theAlicante countryside.

DeceptiveappearancesAccustomed as he is to the flavor ofthe Mollar de Elche variety, DomingoArce, director of the AlbafruitsCooperative, the biggest in Albatera,can barely contain his mirth when herecalls his first taste of a foreignpomegranate. “I thought it was adifferent fruit altogether! It was assour as a lemon!” Comparisons maybe odious, but there is no denyingthat, for sweetness, thepomegranates grown hereaboutsstand out proudly from all the rest.Spanish-grown pomegranates have acharacteristic caramel flavor thatgives them a big advantage in anincreasingly competitive market. Butthe high concentration of sugars isnot Mollar de Elche’s only advantage:

it also has very small, soft, yieldingpips that are barely discernible in themouth so that this variety is veryeasy to eat.As in the wine world, variety is justone factor in the fruit’s overallcharacter. To borrow wineterminology, this part of Alicante isthe equivalent of a terroir that stampsits indelible imprint on the Mollar deElche pomegranate. Like vines,pomegranate trees survive inconditions that few other plants cantolerate. They cope well withdrought and thrive in poor soils, towhich they respond by sending outdeeper roots in search of nutrients.This explains why the pomegranatehas found an apparently idealhabitat in this area: completely flatterrain at sea level, and occasionallybelow, with just the right salinitylevels. The Mediterranean, only afew kilometers away from the fruitgroves, functions as a filter thattakes the edge off temperatures andstaves off the dreaded frosts that canruin entire harvests.People around here maintain that:“...pomegranates need moist sea air.They can’t survive without it,” and to

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centuries-old palm trees interposedamong the crops. We are in theVinalpó Valley, an area of fertile openground and orchards bounded bythe calm waters of the Mediterraneanto the east and the mountains of theBetic System to the north. Thiscomarca is the source of most of the25,000 tonnes (55 million lbs) ofpomegranates that constitute Spain’squalification as Europe’s only large-scale producer (it is beaten in theworld ranking only by Iran, Indiaand Pakistan). Furthermore, much ofits production is destined for theinternational market, making theregion a heavyweight exporter on aglobal scale. When the firsttruckloads of pomegranates toventure beyond local boundaries setoff almost a century ago, they wereheaded for Barcelona and Madrid.Other destinations in the UnitedKingdom, France, the Netherlands,Russia and Malaysia would soon beadded to the list, building up to acurrent export quota that accountsfor an impressive 80% of totalproduction.While other types of fruit would belucky to survive such long journeys,

pomegranates arrive at each of theirdestinations in perfect condition.“They were one of the favorite fruitsof nomadic people precisely becauseof their astonishing keepingcapacity,” we are informed by AndréIrles, director of the CambayasCooperative, one of the biggest inthe district. He also tells us that thesecret lies in picking them off thetree at just the right time: “Not tooearly because, once picked,pomegranates halt the ripeningprocess abruptly, and not too latebecause they are then at risk ofsplitting open.” In calendar terms,the “right time” occurs in September-October in this part of the world.That said, the harvest is not a one-offaffair. Pomegranate trees flowersequentially, creating the need forphased harvesting which is, bydefinition, manual and selective.Over a period of four weeks, thesame tree can be picked two, threeand even four times to ensure thateach pomegranate is harvested at itsoptimal stage of ripeness.“My father can judge by eye whento start the harvest,” smiles CeliaMas as we stroll about her little plot

of land on the outskirts of Elche.Her holding is typical of the localplantation pattern: the overall viewis made up of tiny plots–few over aha (2.5 acres)–that have beenhanded down from father to son forgenerations. Having sold theirproduce to big local traders fordecades, Celia decided to set up abusiness on her own account andtoday she sells her pomegranatesand their juice–100% natural, asshe is quick to point out–on theinternet. Her policy of favoringquality over quantity has producedresults: the products of her familyfirm, Campo de Elche, have beenhonorably mentioned by top chefsand are sold by some of the bestfruit shops in Madrid–FrutasVázquez, suppliers to the SpanishRoyal Household. Althoughpomegranate trees reach peakproductivity from their seventh yearon and, in theory, start to declineafter 40, her grove has trees that arecenturies old and perfectly healthy,“thanks to my father’s care andattention,” says Celia proudly.Despite being over 70 and retired,not a day goes by without his

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patrolling the plot. “He knows itlike the back of his hand.”Sounds of lively activity from anearby plot attract our attention. Agroup of day laborers has alreadystarted picking reddened Valencianavariety pomegranates. They tell methat of the two types grown in Spain,this is the first to ripen, flushing pink-to-red before the other. It is earlySeptember and the sun is still hot, butthe team of workers–parents,children, cousins, friends–are,without exception, wearing longsleeves. “Whether it’s pelting with rainor blazing hot, this outfit is essential,otherwise, by the end of the day yourarms are covered in scratches,”explains one of them, demonstratingthe reason why. The pomegranatetree, variously categorized as a smalltree or a tall shrub, conceals sharpthorns on the ends of its branches. Itsthorny nature and deep red flowers(known as jullanâr, and oftencelebrated by Arab and Persian poets)are characteristics that it shares withthe rose.The pomegranate blossom wasreplaced months ago by the fruitsthat now, in September, fill the

harvesters’ crates. This first pickingof Valenciana pomegranates serves asa warm-up for another, later andperhaps more eagerly awaitedharvest of the Mollar de Elchevariety, unchallenged monarch of theAlicante countryside.

DeceptiveappearancesAccustomed as he is to the flavor ofthe Mollar de Elche variety, DomingoArce, director of the AlbafruitsCooperative, the biggest in Albatera,can barely contain his mirth when herecalls his first taste of a foreignpomegranate. “I thought it was adifferent fruit altogether! It was assour as a lemon!” Comparisons maybe odious, but there is no denyingthat, for sweetness, thepomegranates grown hereaboutsstand out proudly from all the rest.Spanish-grown pomegranates have acharacteristic caramel flavor thatgives them a big advantage in anincreasingly competitive market. Butthe high concentration of sugars isnot Mollar de Elche’s only advantage:

it also has very small, soft, yieldingpips that are barely discernible in themouth so that this variety is veryeasy to eat.As in the wine world, variety is justone factor in the fruit’s overallcharacter. To borrow wineterminology, this part of Alicante isthe equivalent of a terroir that stampsits indelible imprint on the Mollar deElche pomegranate. Like vines,pomegranate trees survive inconditions that few other plants cantolerate. They cope well withdrought and thrive in poor soils, towhich they respond by sending outdeeper roots in search of nutrients.This explains why the pomegranatehas found an apparently idealhabitat in this area: completely flatterrain at sea level, and occasionallybelow, with just the right salinitylevels. The Mediterranean, only afew kilometers away from the fruitgroves, functions as a filter thattakes the edge off temperatures andstaves off the dreaded frosts that canruin entire harvests.People around here maintain that:“...pomegranates need moist sea air.They can’t survive without it,” and to

104 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 105

centuries-old palm trees interposedamong the crops. We are in theVinalpó Valley, an area of fertile openground and orchards bounded bythe calm waters of the Mediterraneanto the east and the mountains of theBetic System to the north. Thiscomarca is the source of most of the25,000 tonnes (55 million lbs) ofpomegranates that constitute Spain’squalification as Europe’s only large-scale producer (it is beaten in theworld ranking only by Iran, Indiaand Pakistan). Furthermore, much ofits production is destined for theinternational market, making theregion a heavyweight exporter on aglobal scale. When the firsttruckloads of pomegranates toventure beyond local boundaries setoff almost a century ago, they wereheaded for Barcelona and Madrid.Other destinations in the UnitedKingdom, France, the Netherlands,Russia and Malaysia would soon beadded to the list, building up to acurrent export quota that accountsfor an impressive 80% of totalproduction.While other types of fruit would belucky to survive such long journeys,

pomegranates arrive at each of theirdestinations in perfect condition.“They were one of the favorite fruitsof nomadic people precisely becauseof their astonishing keepingcapacity,” we are informed by AndréIrles, director of the CambayasCooperative, one of the biggest inthe district. He also tells us that thesecret lies in picking them off thetree at just the right time: “Not tooearly because, once picked,pomegranates halt the ripeningprocess abruptly, and not too latebecause they are then at risk ofsplitting open.” In calendar terms,the “right time” occurs in September-October in this part of the world.That said, the harvest is not a one-offaffair. Pomegranate trees flowersequentially, creating the need forphased harvesting which is, bydefinition, manual and selective.Over a period of four weeks, thesame tree can be picked two, threeand even four times to ensure thateach pomegranate is harvested at itsoptimal stage of ripeness.“My father can judge by eye whento start the harvest,” smiles CeliaMas as we stroll about her little plot

of land on the outskirts of Elche.Her holding is typical of the localplantation pattern: the overall viewis made up of tiny plots–few over aha (2.5 acres)–that have beenhanded down from father to son forgenerations. Having sold theirproduce to big local traders fordecades, Celia decided to set up abusiness on her own account andtoday she sells her pomegranatesand their juice–100% natural, asshe is quick to point out–on theinternet. Her policy of favoringquality over quantity has producedresults: the products of her familyfirm, Campo de Elche, have beenhonorably mentioned by top chefsand are sold by some of the bestfruit shops in Madrid–FrutasVázquez, suppliers to the SpanishRoyal Household. Althoughpomegranate trees reach peakproductivity from their seventh yearon and, in theory, start to declineafter 40, her grove has trees that arecenturies old and perfectly healthy,“thanks to my father’s care andattention,” says Celia proudly.Despite being over 70 and retired,not a day goes by without his

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judge by the size and weight of thespecimens before us, there’s a lot inwhat they say. Having said that, theouter look and color of apomegranate should not be taken asan indicator of quality. Strangelyenough, even the ripestpomegranates in the Mollar de Elchefamily never go bright red. Theirnatural color range lies betweentones of orange and deep pink. Thatbeing the case, how does one knowwhen the fruit is at its peak? PepeBotella, director of Elche’s CopelcheCooperative, reveals two basicyardsticks: perfectly rounded shapeand a good weight to size ratio(irrefutable evidence that thepomegranate in question is full ofjuice). “Today’s consumers arelearning how to select them in thesupermarket,” he comments. “Afteryears of buying tomatoes that lookperfect but lack flavor, we know thatappearances can be deceptive whenchoosing fruit.” Mollar de Elchepomegranates may be unlikely towin first prize in a beauty contest asthey have a less pronounced outercolor than other varieties, but theyare packed with a secret treasure inthe form of delicious, sweet, redpulp-encased seeds known as arils.

Natural spheresThese days, the notion of seasonalfruits is something of an illusion.Increasingly, many crops are grownin both hemispheres and maintain apresence on our supermarket shelvesthroughout the year. Tomatoes inwinter, oranges in summer... thanksto globalization, they find their way

POMEGRANATES

FOODBASICS

Babylonian soldiers used to chew pomegranate grains before goinginto battle, convinced that the fruit’s characteristic resilience wouldmake them invincible. Hippocrates, who in classical Antiquitylaunched the famous “let food be your medicine” principle, used torecommend that his patients drink pomegranate juice to bring down afever, while Discorides, surgeon to the Roman army, considered it thebest remedy for flatulence. Throughout the centuries, healers fromvarious cultures have prescribed pomegranates for ailments rangingfrom conjunctivitis to hemorrhoids, with pharyngitis and laryngitis inbetween. What in olden times was intuited empirically has now beenvalidated by scientific testing. Modern medicine has shown that farfrom being an old wives’ tale, this fruit does indeed possess health-giving properties that qualify it as a super-food. (This term, referring tofoodstuffs that prevent the progressive deterioration responsible forcommon pains and diseases, was popularized in 2004 in theblockbuster book by Canadian nutritionist Steven Pratt).Pomegranates now rank alongside berries and green tea in thepantheon of foods with outstanding nutritional and anti-oxidantproperties. Instrumental in their ascent have been scientists such asDr. Michael Aviram, also an exponent of the benefits of wine-derivedtannins. His research at the University of Haifa, Israel, has recentlyshown that pomegranate polyphenols lower cholesterol levels in theblood, thereby reducing the risk of a heart attack. Research by Dr.David Holtzman, Head of Neurology at the University of WashingtonSchool of Medicine, has found that these polyphenols also appear tohave neuroprotective properties. Still in the US, in 2005 the Universityof Madison published the results of several studies affirming thatregular consumption of pomegranate juice inhibits the growth andprogress of prostate cancer, a claim seconded by Dr. Alan Pantuck,urologist at the University of California’s Jonsson ComprehensiveCancer Center. Many more beneficial effects are attributed topomegranates, including that they are estrogenic, anti-inflammatory,antiseptic and aid digestion. And all the indicators show that the list isfar from complete just yet.

N A T U R A L M E D I C I N E

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judge by the size and weight of thespecimens before us, there’s a lot inwhat they say. Having said that, theouter look and color of apomegranate should not be taken asan indicator of quality. Strangelyenough, even the ripestpomegranates in the Mollar de Elchefamily never go bright red. Theirnatural color range lies betweentones of orange and deep pink. Thatbeing the case, how does one knowwhen the fruit is at its peak? PepeBotella, director of Elche’s CopelcheCooperative, reveals two basicyardsticks: perfectly rounded shapeand a good weight to size ratio(irrefutable evidence that thepomegranate in question is full ofjuice). “Today’s consumers arelearning how to select them in thesupermarket,” he comments. “Afteryears of buying tomatoes that lookperfect but lack flavor, we know thatappearances can be deceptive whenchoosing fruit.” Mollar de Elchepomegranates may be unlikely towin first prize in a beauty contest asthey have a less pronounced outercolor than other varieties, but theyare packed with a secret treasure inthe form of delicious, sweet, redpulp-encased seeds known as arils.

Natural spheresThese days, the notion of seasonalfruits is something of an illusion.Increasingly, many crops are grownin both hemispheres and maintain apresence on our supermarket shelvesthroughout the year. Tomatoes inwinter, oranges in summer... thanksto globalization, they find their way

POMEGRANATES

FOODBASICS

Babylonian soldiers used to chew pomegranate grains before goinginto battle, convinced that the fruit’s characteristic resilience wouldmake them invincible. Hippocrates, who in classical Antiquitylaunched the famous “let food be your medicine” principle, used torecommend that his patients drink pomegranate juice to bring down afever, while Discorides, surgeon to the Roman army, considered it thebest remedy for flatulence. Throughout the centuries, healers fromvarious cultures have prescribed pomegranates for ailments rangingfrom conjunctivitis to hemorrhoids, with pharyngitis and laryngitis inbetween. What in olden times was intuited empirically has now beenvalidated by scientific testing. Modern medicine has shown that farfrom being an old wives’ tale, this fruit does indeed possess health-giving properties that qualify it as a super-food. (This term, referring tofoodstuffs that prevent the progressive deterioration responsible forcommon pains and diseases, was popularized in 2004 in theblockbuster book by Canadian nutritionist Steven Pratt).Pomegranates now rank alongside berries and green tea in thepantheon of foods with outstanding nutritional and anti-oxidantproperties. Instrumental in their ascent have been scientists such asDr. Michael Aviram, also an exponent of the benefits of wine-derivedtannins. His research at the University of Haifa, Israel, has recentlyshown that pomegranate polyphenols lower cholesterol levels in theblood, thereby reducing the risk of a heart attack. Research by Dr.David Holtzman, Head of Neurology at the University of WashingtonSchool of Medicine, has found that these polyphenols also appear tohave neuroprotective properties. Still in the US, in 2005 the Universityof Madison published the results of several studies affirming thatregular consumption of pomegranate juice inhibits the growth andprogress of prostate cancer, a claim seconded by Dr. Alan Pantuck,urologist at the University of California’s Jonsson ComprehensiveCancer Center. Many more beneficial effects are attributed topomegranates, including that they are estrogenic, anti-inflammatory,antiseptic and aid digestion. And all the indicators show that the list isfar from complete just yet.

N A T U R A L M E D I C I N E

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to our tables from all corners of theplanet. There are still someromantics around who refuse toyield to this kind ofinternationalization and prefer towait patiently for the fruits in theirown territory to ripen. Among thoseat the forefront of this school ofthought are chefs, who are perfectlywilling to scour the world for newflavors, yet stout defenders ofproducts from their home patch.In the Alicante province, many ofthem have been hanging on for thebetter part of a year: pomegranatesare a winter fruit in this part of theworld, making an appearance inSeptember or October andremaining available until January orFebruary. During that period, theyfeature on the menus of many localrestaurants, such as two-Michelin-star-holder El Poblet in Denia, anengaging town on the Alicante coast.Head chef Quique Dacosta isshowcasing Spanish pomegranateson his menu again this year. “I thinkI’ve been using them since I startedhere,” he beams, “and I’ve alwaystried to capitalize on their texture,which is crunchy and sweet andjuicy at the same time, with acidic,bitter overtones.” Among the dishescoming out of his kitchen today areeye-catching crystallized apple bow-shaped puff pastries with aloe, sweetleaf tea and pomegranate. He is alsointo exploring textural interplay atthe moment–“very simple, but theresults are magic.” Here’s just oneexample: freshly made creamymandarin sorbet to whichunadorned fresh pomegranate arilsare added just as it goes into thesorbetière.Leaving the sea behind us, we nowhead for inland Alicante. Kiko

While some enjoy the ritual of cutting a pomegranate in half and carefully extractingits tiny grains, or arils, others can’t be bothered. Aware of the fact thatpomegranates can be perceived as “hard to eat”, several European producers havebeen casting about over the last few years for new, more user-friendly presentations.More specifically, companies from Spain, France, Israel and Greece joined forces in2000, under the EU’s financial umbrella to develop technology capable of peelingpomegranates, separating their arils by color and packing them in convenientcontainers.

Spain’s representative in the project was Altabix, whose premises we are visitingtoday. Santiago Mira, founder over 50 years ago of a company that is now one ofthe biggest agricultural enterprises in Elche, hands me a gown and advises me toput it on before entering the next room. The department where the arils are removedand packed is something of a separate entity with respect to the premises as awhole: “It’s our operating room, our cutting-edge technology laboratory.” In an icycold and practically sterile environment where the air is renewed every minute,several workers are keeping an eye on the mechanical aril extraction machine.Surprisingly, it seems to be quite straightforward: compressed water and air areused to gently deseed the whole pomegranates. The gleaming, ruby red arils arethen transferred to another piece of equipment which uses artificial vision to groupthem by different shades of color. This is the first machine of its kind in the world andwas developed in conjunction with the Valencian Institute for Agrarian Research(IVIA). “There were already machines on the market capable of separating manyfruits by color, but pomegranates posed an extra problem because their arils are sotiny and tend to stick together because of their high concentration of sugars,”explains José Blasco, head of the artificial vision laboratory at IVIA’s agriculturalengineering center. It took them four years to put the final touches on a machinethat, today, can process between three and six tonnes (13,227 lbs) of arils per week.Packed in trays, and without the aid of coloring or preservatives, they leave the Elcheplant bound for the food halls of Marks & Spencer in the UK and many otherdestinations all over Europe.

Applying the ready-to-eat approach to one of the oldest fruits in the world has beena great success, and pomegranates needed a radical makeover to bring them up-to-date. Nonetheless, the more nostalgic among us will be relieved to know that wecan still buy our pomegranates whole and set about eating them in the traditionalway.

R E A D Y - T O - E A T

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to our tables from all corners of theplanet. There are still someromantics around who refuse toyield to this kind ofinternationalization and prefer towait patiently for the fruits in theirown territory to ripen. Among thoseat the forefront of this school ofthought are chefs, who are perfectlywilling to scour the world for newflavors, yet stout defenders ofproducts from their home patch.In the Alicante province, many ofthem have been hanging on for thebetter part of a year: pomegranatesare a winter fruit in this part of theworld, making an appearance inSeptember or October andremaining available until January orFebruary. During that period, theyfeature on the menus of many localrestaurants, such as two-Michelin-star-holder El Poblet in Denia, anengaging town on the Alicante coast.Head chef Quique Dacosta isshowcasing Spanish pomegranateson his menu again this year. “I thinkI’ve been using them since I startedhere,” he beams, “and I’ve alwaystried to capitalize on their texture,which is crunchy and sweet andjuicy at the same time, with acidic,bitter overtones.” Among the dishescoming out of his kitchen today areeye-catching crystallized apple bow-shaped puff pastries with aloe, sweetleaf tea and pomegranate. He is alsointo exploring textural interplay atthe moment–“very simple, but theresults are magic.” Here’s just oneexample: freshly made creamymandarin sorbet to whichunadorned fresh pomegranate arilsare added just as it goes into thesorbetière.Leaving the sea behind us, we nowhead for inland Alicante. Kiko

While some enjoy the ritual of cutting a pomegranate in half and carefully extractingits tiny grains, or arils, others can’t be bothered. Aware of the fact thatpomegranates can be perceived as “hard to eat”, several European producers havebeen casting about over the last few years for new, more user-friendly presentations.More specifically, companies from Spain, France, Israel and Greece joined forces in2000, under the EU’s financial umbrella to develop technology capable of peelingpomegranates, separating their arils by color and packing them in convenientcontainers.

Spain’s representative in the project was Altabix, whose premises we are visitingtoday. Santiago Mira, founder over 50 years ago of a company that is now one ofthe biggest agricultural enterprises in Elche, hands me a gown and advises me toput it on before entering the next room. The department where the arils are removedand packed is something of a separate entity with respect to the premises as awhole: “It’s our operating room, our cutting-edge technology laboratory.” In an icycold and practically sterile environment where the air is renewed every minute,several workers are keeping an eye on the mechanical aril extraction machine.Surprisingly, it seems to be quite straightforward: compressed water and air areused to gently deseed the whole pomegranates. The gleaming, ruby red arils arethen transferred to another piece of equipment which uses artificial vision to groupthem by different shades of color. This is the first machine of its kind in the world andwas developed in conjunction with the Valencian Institute for Agrarian Research(IVIA). “There were already machines on the market capable of separating manyfruits by color, but pomegranates posed an extra problem because their arils are sotiny and tend to stick together because of their high concentration of sugars,”explains José Blasco, head of the artificial vision laboratory at IVIA’s agriculturalengineering center. It took them four years to put the final touches on a machinethat, today, can process between three and six tonnes (13,227 lbs) of arils per week.Packed in trays, and without the aid of coloring or preservatives, they leave the Elcheplant bound for the food halls of Marks & Spencer in the UK and many otherdestinations all over Europe.

Applying the ready-to-eat approach to one of the oldest fruits in the world has beena great success, and pomegranates needed a radical makeover to bring them up-to-date. Nonetheless, the more nostalgic among us will be relieved to know that wecan still buy our pomegranates whole and set about eating them in the traditionalway.

R E A D Y - T O - E A T

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Moya, who runs the one-Michelin-star restaurant L’Escaleta inCocentaina, loves pomegranates.“Those trees have been there all mylife. They were the backdrop to mychildhood,” he recalls. “In the localrepertoire they are categorized inthe dessert department, butpomegranates are such a versatilefruit that they can be usedthroughout the menu.” LikeQuique, Kiko emphasizes theimportance of their exceptionaltexture. “Visually, the red grainshave the same jewel-like look as

fish roe. Those little natural spheresburst in your mouth, leaving asensation of freshness, sweetness,acidity and bitterness all at the sametime. It’s quite an explosion offlavors.” As our conversation drawsto a close, he tells me about hislatest experiments with unusualcombinations of ingredients: “Iassociate pomegranates with Arabculture. That in turn suggests rosewater, ginger, cinnamon, dates,saffron...” he explains. “I’m onlytrying out tentative combinations sofar, but I know for certain that

something good will develop!”As it happens, doing unconventionalthings with saffron was what earnedMaria José Román a place in the foodand wine pages of The New YorkTimes. This enquiring, self-taughtchef experiments with new productsin her restaurant, Monastrell, on adaily basis. Her saffron period wouldseem to have been succeeded by aMollar de Elche pomegranate one or,more specifically, its concentratedjuice reduced down into a paste:“...like our traditional Spanisharropes and melazas (grape and

110 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 111

POMEGRANATES

FOODBASICS

POMEGRANATES

FOODBASICS

the supermarket, I observe certainguidelines. I buy just the onepomegranate, for eating that same day;it must weigh between 200 and 300 g(7 and 10 1/2 oz) and be perfectlyshaped; it must be yellow-to-red incolor; the skin must not be too smooth;it must be firm but not too hard to thetouch and, like a melon, its weightshould be proportional to its size. If allthese requirements are met, there isevery chance of finding fruity perfectionwhen I cut it open.

I rarely get excited about food, andwhen I do it is probably aboutsomething rather basic. Enjoyment,now, is quite another matter. I alwaysenjoy eating, but getting a thrill out offood, a real thrill, is not something Iexperience often. One of the few thingsthat does the trick is sitting down to anenormous, round, ripe pomegranate. Igo off on my own, ignore alldistractions, and with an almost ecstaticabsorption, launch into the ritual.

I place the pomegranate on a plate.Using a very sharp knife, I cut discsabout 6 cm (2.4 in) in diameter from thecrown and base. I then score four radialcuts whose purpose is to help dividethe fruit into four portions. The cutsneed to be quite shallow, just deepenough to go through the leathery skin

without damaging the arils within. That’sthe preparatory stage. Next, I grasp thefruit in both hands over the plate andfirmly but gently prise the sectionsapart, relishing the crunch between myfingers as the first jewels fall. I thenproceed to separate the arils from thepericarp and the various cuticles thatdivide up the fruit’s interior. Withpatience worthy of a Franciscan, Igradually build up a heap of polyhedricarils, looking like little juicy buildingblocks irregularly hewn by MotherNature.

Prompted by my salivary glands, at lastI dig in pleasurably with my spoon. Yes,a good old-fashioned spoon is myutensil of choice for scooping up theprepared pomegranate grains. Fewpleasures can compare with that firstspoonful of ruby morsels that explode inmy mouth as I chew, releasing theirfresh sweetness. It’s the taste of mychildhood.

Journalist and pomegranate-loverCarlos Tejero is editorial co-coordinator of spaingourmetour.com.

Certain products make their mark onSpain Gourmetour’s editorial team.Pomegranates are a case in point: forour colleague Carlos Tejero, they triggervivid childhood memories. He sharesthem with us here.

As well as being an inexhaustible fountof popular sayings, my grandfather wasa convinced herbalist. He maintainedthat pomegranate root was good forgetting rid of tapeworms (a parasitefrom which, I’m pleased to report, no-one in my family had ever suffered).Nevertheless, worrier that he was, hedecided to plant a pomegranate tree inhis orchard so as to have an effectivevermifuge on hand just in case.

As time went by and the plant grew, Iwas never aware of any root removaltaking place, which was, I suppose, agood sign. What I do remember is thataround May or June, the tree wouldcome into bloom. It did so timidly,over several weeks, unlike the almondtrees which bloom almost overnight.The flowers, large, bell shaped andbright orangey red, would appeargradually. Later, the fruit would appearin the calyx, a green berry that grewinto a spherical shape over thefollowing weeks.

By October, the fruit would be almostcompletely grown, its skin a glossy

S W E E T M E M O R I E S

yellow or red, depending on how muchit had been exposed to the sun(surprisingly, the most intensely coloredarils in a pomegranate occur in that partof the fruit that has had the leastamount of sun). By chance, thispomegranate tree had been plantedbetween a loquat and a willow, tallerand leafier than itself, so that the sun’srays had little effect on it.

My grandfather did not look after thepomegranate tree much. I was to learnlater that because it was watered onlyerratically while it was growing, the fruitcracked open when ripe, revealing theirinner treasure. That was the point atwhich I would pick and eat them, so mybrain associates maximum sweetnesswith a pomegranate that has split openof its own accord. But that’s not howyou find them in the shops. For obviouscommercial reasons, the fruit on offer iswhole, with smooth, satiny skin. No-onewill buy a split pomegranate.

The orchard where the pomegranatetree once stood no longer exists, so if Ineed pomegranates I have to shop forthem these days, and that’s not assimple as it sounds. As far as I’mconcerned, eating a pomegranate is aritual that starts with selecting the fruit.If I know and trust the fruit seller, I takehis advice. If not, or if I’m shopping at

08-GRANADAS IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 17:37 P gina 110 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

GRANADAS_AF.qxd 24/11/07 06:04 Página 110

Moya, who runs the one-Michelin-star restaurant L’Escaleta inCocentaina, loves pomegranates.“Those trees have been there all mylife. They were the backdrop to mychildhood,” he recalls. “In the localrepertoire they are categorized inthe dessert department, butpomegranates are such a versatilefruit that they can be usedthroughout the menu.” LikeQuique, Kiko emphasizes theimportance of their exceptionaltexture. “Visually, the red grainshave the same jewel-like look as

fish roe. Those little natural spheresburst in your mouth, leaving asensation of freshness, sweetness,acidity and bitterness all at the sametime. It’s quite an explosion offlavors.” As our conversation drawsto a close, he tells me about hislatest experiments with unusualcombinations of ingredients: “Iassociate pomegranates with Arabculture. That in turn suggests rosewater, ginger, cinnamon, dates,saffron...” he explains. “I’m onlytrying out tentative combinations sofar, but I know for certain that

something good will develop!”As it happens, doing unconventionalthings with saffron was what earnedMaria José Román a place in the foodand wine pages of The New YorkTimes. This enquiring, self-taughtchef experiments with new productsin her restaurant, Monastrell, on adaily basis. Her saffron period wouldseem to have been succeeded by aMollar de Elche pomegranate one or,more specifically, its concentratedjuice reduced down into a paste:“...like our traditional Spanisharropes and melazas (grape and

110 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 111

POMEGRANATES

FOODBASICS

POMEGRANATES

FOODBASICS

the supermarket, I observe certainguidelines. I buy just the onepomegranate, for eating that same day;it must weigh between 200 and 300 g(7 and 10 1/2 oz) and be perfectlyshaped; it must be yellow-to-red incolor; the skin must not be too smooth;it must be firm but not too hard to thetouch and, like a melon, its weightshould be proportional to its size. If allthese requirements are met, there isevery chance of finding fruity perfectionwhen I cut it open.

I rarely get excited about food, andwhen I do it is probably aboutsomething rather basic. Enjoyment,now, is quite another matter. I alwaysenjoy eating, but getting a thrill out offood, a real thrill, is not something Iexperience often. One of the few thingsthat does the trick is sitting down to anenormous, round, ripe pomegranate. Igo off on my own, ignore alldistractions, and with an almost ecstaticabsorption, launch into the ritual.

I place the pomegranate on a plate.Using a very sharp knife, I cut discsabout 6 cm (2.4 in) in diameter from thecrown and base. I then score four radialcuts whose purpose is to help dividethe fruit into four portions. The cutsneed to be quite shallow, just deepenough to go through the leathery skin

without damaging the arils within. That’sthe preparatory stage. Next, I grasp thefruit in both hands over the plate andfirmly but gently prise the sectionsapart, relishing the crunch between myfingers as the first jewels fall. I thenproceed to separate the arils from thepericarp and the various cuticles thatdivide up the fruit’s interior. Withpatience worthy of a Franciscan, Igradually build up a heap of polyhedricarils, looking like little juicy buildingblocks irregularly hewn by MotherNature.

Prompted by my salivary glands, at lastI dig in pleasurably with my spoon. Yes,a good old-fashioned spoon is myutensil of choice for scooping up theprepared pomegranate grains. Fewpleasures can compare with that firstspoonful of ruby morsels that explode inmy mouth as I chew, releasing theirfresh sweetness. It’s the taste of mychildhood.

Journalist and pomegranate-loverCarlos Tejero is editorial co-coordinator of spaingourmetour.com.

Certain products make their mark onSpain Gourmetour’s editorial team.Pomegranates are a case in point: forour colleague Carlos Tejero, they triggervivid childhood memories. He sharesthem with us here.

As well as being an inexhaustible fountof popular sayings, my grandfather wasa convinced herbalist. He maintainedthat pomegranate root was good forgetting rid of tapeworms (a parasitefrom which, I’m pleased to report, no-one in my family had ever suffered).Nevertheless, worrier that he was, hedecided to plant a pomegranate tree inhis orchard so as to have an effectivevermifuge on hand just in case.

As time went by and the plant grew, Iwas never aware of any root removaltaking place, which was, I suppose, agood sign. What I do remember is thataround May or June, the tree wouldcome into bloom. It did so timidly,over several weeks, unlike the almondtrees which bloom almost overnight.The flowers, large, bell shaped andbright orangey red, would appeargradually. Later, the fruit would appearin the calyx, a green berry that grewinto a spherical shape over thefollowing weeks.

By October, the fruit would be almostcompletely grown, its skin a glossy

S W E E T M E M O R I E S

yellow or red, depending on how muchit had been exposed to the sun(surprisingly, the most intensely coloredarils in a pomegranate occur in that partof the fruit that has had the leastamount of sun). By chance, thispomegranate tree had been plantedbetween a loquat and a willow, tallerand leafier than itself, so that the sun’srays had little effect on it.

My grandfather did not look after thepomegranate tree much. I was to learnlater that because it was watered onlyerratically while it was growing, the fruitcracked open when ripe, revealing theirinner treasure. That was the point atwhich I would pick and eat them, so mybrain associates maximum sweetnesswith a pomegranate that has split openof its own accord. But that’s not howyou find them in the shops. For obviouscommercial reasons, the fruit on offer iswhole, with smooth, satiny skin. No-onewill buy a split pomegranate.

The orchard where the pomegranatetree once stood no longer exists, so if Ineed pomegranates I have to shop forthem these days, and that’s not assimple as it sounds. As far as I’mconcerned, eating a pomegranate is aritual that starts with selecting the fruit.If I know and trust the fruit seller, I takehis advice. If not, or if I’m shopping at

08-GRANADAS IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 17:37 P gina 110 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

en la fruta de los sustantivos que sepueden adjetivar. Según la mitologíagriega el primer granado fue plantadopor Afrodita, la diosa del amor y labelleza. Sin embargo, otra historia relatacómo Perséfone, hija de Zeus, fueseducida por los granos de esta fruta, enesta ocasión símbolo de los dulzoresmaléficos. Imagen de posteridadnumerosa, en Roma el tocado de lasnovias se hacía de ramas de granado, ypara San Juan de la Cruz, abanderadode la mística cristiana, la granada esejemplo de las perfecciones divinasincontables, de la eternidad y del gozodel alma.Desde la Torá al Corán, pasando por loscuentos de Las mil y una noches, lagranada ha dejado su impronta enleyendas, relatos y poemas. El premioNobel de Literatura, André Gide,describía su fascinante arquitecturacomo “tesoro guardado, encañonado detul”, y según Ferdousí, reverenciadopoeta persa, “sólo las mejillasencendidas de la bien amada se lepueden comparar”.Federico García Lorca se rindió a subelleza y le dedicó un extenso poemadel que reproducimos un extracto: “Escolmena diminuta / con panalensangrentado, / pues con bocas demujeres / sus abejas la formaron /. Poreso al estallar, ríe / con púrpuras de millabios…”. ¿Puede existir una campañapublicitaria mejor?

Celia Hernando es periodista y hacolaborado en medios de comunicacióncomo la Cadena Ser o Punto Radio.Actualmente es periodista en prácticas enSpain Gourmetour.

Recetas, página 116Exportadores, página 144 y 145Créditos de fotos, página 148

día, en su restaurante Monastrell, connuevos productos y parece quedespués del capítulo con el azafránahora le ha llegado el turno a lagranada mollar de Elche, más enconcreto a su jugo concentrado. Setrata de una pasta, de una reducción“parecida a nuestros arropes o melazasde vino, aunque en esta ocasión, envez del mosto de la uva, lo quecocemos lentamente es la granada”,explica. Con el sirope resultante, MariaJosé acompaña infinidad de platos.“Sus propiedades son similares oincluso superiores a las de un acetobalsámico –subraya–. Su embriagadoraroma ensalza el sabor de las nueces ylos frutos secos en general, afila elgusto de las aves de corral y de lacarne de cerdo, otorga un pertinente

punto de acidez al pescado, y un filoastringente a las ensaladas”. Confiesaque para buscar la inspiración harecurrido a la gastronomía tradicionalde países como Irán o India, donde lagranada es un ingrediente habitual delrecetario popular. “Cuando llega latemporada, el zumo de granada es unode los más solicitados en los puestoscallejeros –me explica–. Y en Turquíasu jugo se utiliza a modo de vinagrepara aliñar las ensaladas”.

Una fruta, milleyendasClaudia Roden, reconocida especialistade la historia de la alimentación en elmarco mediterráneo –quien acuña la

frase “la cocina de una país refleja suhistoria”–, ha estudiado la tradiciónculinaria judía y sus conexiones con laespañola, a la que define como unaacertada fusión “de la gastronomíasefardí y la musulmana”. En su obra Ellibro de la cocina judía nos desvela elsignificado simbólico de la granada. “ElAntiguo Testamento la cita en multitudde ocasiones. De hecho, esta frutaparticipa en la celebración del AñoNuevo judío, una fiesta dramática ysolemne –apunta–. Se cree que tiene613 semillas, tantas comomandamientos, y se come convocandoun año fecundo repleto debendiciones”.Fertilidad, abundancia, perfección,deseo carnal, esperanza... La naturalezaexótica de la granada la ha convertido

www.campodeelche.comPágina web de la empresa Campo de Elche, que ofrece unacompleta información sobre la granada mollar de Elche: origen,propiedades nutritivas, artículos relacionados, etc. Desde la propiapágina se pueden realizar pedidos de esta variedad y de su zumo.(Español)

www.altabix.comWeb de la empresa Altabix en al que, además de informaciónsobre la compañía, comercializa sus productos a través de lapropia web. (Español)

www.cambayas.comPágina web de la Cooperativa Cambadas en Elche. Además degranada, esta empresa comercializa higos, naranjas y hortalizas.(Inglés, español)

S I T I O S W E B

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Aphrodite, goddess of love andbeauty; however, in the story ofPersephone, daughter of Zeus, whowas led astray by grains ofpomegranate, the fruit symbolizesevil sweetness. When Roman brideswore a headdress made ofpomegranate branches, itrepresented a future blessed withmany children, while for St. Johnof the Cross, figurehead ofChristian mysticism, thepomegranate exemplified theinnumerable divine perfections,eternity and spiritual joy.Mentioned in the Torah, the Koranand the tales of The thousand and onenights, the pomegranate has left itsmark on legends, stories and poems.André Gide, Nobel Prize Winner forLiterature, described thepomegranate’s fascinating structureas “hidden treasure, wrapped up intulle”, while the revered Persian poetFerdowsî declared that “only theblushing cheeks of the beloved cancompare with it”.Federico García Lorca devoted a longpoem to the pomegranate, praisingits beauty along these lines: “It is atiny beehive/with a bloodstainedhoneycomb/for it was shaped by itsbees/from womens’ mouths./That iswhy it bursts open laughing/with thered of a thousand lips...” Who needsan advertising campaign?

Celia Hernando is a journalist thathas worker with the radio stationsCadena Ser and Punto Radio and isa trainee journalist at SpainGourmetour.

112 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 113

honey syrups) except that in thiscase pomegranate rather than grapemust is cooked down slowly,” sheexplains. María José uses theresulting syrup as an accompanimentto countless dishes. “Its propertiesare similar to, or even better than,those of balsamic vinegar,” sheexplains. “Its heady aroma enhancesthe flavor of walnuts and indeednuts in general, sharpens the flavorof poultry and pork, gives a littleacidic zing to fish and a touch ofastringency to salads.” She admits tohaving looked to the traditionalcooking of such countries as Iranand India for her inspiration, wherepomegranates are a commoningredient in everyday cooking.“When the season starts,

pomegranate juice is one of the mostpopular choices at street stalls,” sheexplains, “and in Turkey,pomegranate juice is used likevinegar for dressing salads.”

The stuff of legendCairo-born food writer ClaudiaRoden, acclaimed expert in thehistory of Mediterranean food,coined the adage “a country’s foodreflects its history”. She has studiedJewish culinary tradition and its linkswith that of Spain, which she definesas a happy fusion of Sephardic andMuslim food. In her Book of JewishFood, she mentions the symbolicsignificance of pomegranates,particularly during the solemn yet

festive Jewish New Year celebrations,when they symbolize “fecundity andrenewal… Oriental New Year mealsend with fresh dates, figs and aboveall pomegranates–all of which arementioned in the Bible–as the newfruits of the season. In Egypt, wethought pomegranates wouldcause our family to bear manychildren”. Pomegranates are alsopopularly believed to contain 613seeds, the same number as there arecommandments mentioned inthe Torah.Fertility, abundance, perfection,carnal desire, hope... Thepomegranate’s exotic nature evokesassociations with abstract nouns.According to Greek mythology, thefirst pomegranate was planted by

POMEGRANATES

FOODBASICS

POMEGRANATES

FOODBASICS

www.campodeelche.comCampo de Elche’s company website tells you everything you needto know about Mollar de Elche pomegranates: their provenance,nutritional properties, related articles and so on. Orders for fruit andjuice of this variety can be placed via this site.(Spanish)

www.altabix.comAltabix’s website provides information about the company and sellsits products on the internet.(Spanish)

www.cambayas.comCambadas Cooperative of Elche’s website. This company sells figs,oranges and vegetables as well as pomegranates.(English, Spanish)

W E B S I T E S

Mediterranean Sea

Valencia

Alicante

Castellónde la Plana

Murcia

Játiva

Elche

50 km / 31 mi

(Mollar de Játiva or Valencia)

(Mollar de Elche)

08-GRANADAS IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 30/11/07 05:42 P gina 112 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

en la fruta de los sustantivos que sepueden adjetivar. Según la mitologíagriega el primer granado fue plantadopor Afrodita, la diosa del amor y labelleza. Sin embargo, otra historia relatacómo Perséfone, hija de Zeus, fueseducida por los granos de esta fruta, enesta ocasión símbolo de los dulzoresmaléficos. Imagen de posteridadnumerosa, en Roma el tocado de lasnovias se hacía de ramas de granado, ypara San Juan de la Cruz, abanderadode la mística cristiana, la granada esejemplo de las perfecciones divinasincontables, de la eternidad y del gozodel alma.Desde la Torá al Corán, pasando por loscuentos de Las mil y una noches, lagranada ha dejado su impronta enleyendas, relatos y poemas. El premioNobel de Literatura, André Gide,describía su fascinante arquitecturacomo “tesoro guardado, encañonado detul”, y según Ferdousí, reverenciadopoeta persa, “sólo las mejillasencendidas de la bien amada se lepueden comparar”.Federico García Lorca se rindió a subelleza y le dedicó un extenso poemadel que reproducimos un extracto: “Escolmena diminuta / con panalensangrentado, / pues con bocas demujeres / sus abejas la formaron /. Poreso al estallar, ríe / con púrpuras de millabios…”. ¿Puede existir una campañapublicitaria mejor?

Celia Hernando es periodista y hacolaborado en medios de comunicacióncomo la Cadena Ser o Punto Radio.Actualmente es periodista en prácticas enSpain Gourmetour.

Recetas, página 116Exportadores, página 144 y 145Créditos de fotos, página 148

día, en su restaurante Monastrell, connuevos productos y parece quedespués del capítulo con el azafránahora le ha llegado el turno a lagranada mollar de Elche, más enconcreto a su jugo concentrado. Setrata de una pasta, de una reducción“parecida a nuestros arropes o melazasde vino, aunque en esta ocasión, envez del mosto de la uva, lo quecocemos lentamente es la granada”,explica. Con el sirope resultante, MariaJosé acompaña infinidad de platos.“Sus propiedades son similares oincluso superiores a las de un acetobalsámico –subraya–. Su embriagadoraroma ensalza el sabor de las nueces ylos frutos secos en general, afila elgusto de las aves de corral y de lacarne de cerdo, otorga un pertinente

punto de acidez al pescado, y un filoastringente a las ensaladas”. Confiesaque para buscar la inspiración harecurrido a la gastronomía tradicionalde países como Irán o India, donde lagranada es un ingrediente habitual delrecetario popular. “Cuando llega latemporada, el zumo de granada es unode los más solicitados en los puestoscallejeros –me explica–. Y en Turquíasu jugo se utiliza a modo de vinagrepara aliñar las ensaladas”.

Una fruta, milleyendasClaudia Roden, reconocida especialistade la historia de la alimentación en elmarco mediterráneo –quien acuña la

frase “la cocina de una país refleja suhistoria”–, ha estudiado la tradiciónculinaria judía y sus conexiones con laespañola, a la que define como unaacertada fusión “de la gastronomíasefardí y la musulmana”. En su obra Ellibro de la cocina judía nos desvela elsignificado simbólico de la granada. “ElAntiguo Testamento la cita en multitudde ocasiones. De hecho, esta frutaparticipa en la celebración del AñoNuevo judío, una fiesta dramática ysolemne –apunta–. Se cree que tiene613 semillas, tantas comomandamientos, y se come convocandoun año fecundo repleto debendiciones”.Fertilidad, abundancia, perfección,deseo carnal, esperanza... La naturalezaexótica de la granada la ha convertido

www.campodeelche.comPágina web de la empresa Campo de Elche, que ofrece unacompleta información sobre la granada mollar de Elche: origen,propiedades nutritivas, artículos relacionados, etc. Desde la propiapágina se pueden realizar pedidos de esta variedad y de su zumo.(Español)

www.altabix.comWeb de la empresa Altabix en al que, además de informaciónsobre la compañía, comercializa sus productos a través de lapropia web. (Español)

www.cambayas.comPágina web de la Cooperativa Cambadas en Elche. Además degranada, esta empresa comercializa higos, naranjas y hortalizas.(Inglés, español)

S I T I O S W E B

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Aphrodite, goddess of love andbeauty; however, in the story ofPersephone, daughter of Zeus, whowas led astray by grains ofpomegranate, the fruit symbolizesevil sweetness. When Roman brideswore a headdress made ofpomegranate branches, itrepresented a future blessed withmany children, while for St. Johnof the Cross, figurehead ofChristian mysticism, thepomegranate exemplified theinnumerable divine perfections,eternity and spiritual joy.Mentioned in the Torah, the Koranand the tales of The thousand and onenights, the pomegranate has left itsmark on legends, stories and poems.André Gide, Nobel Prize Winner forLiterature, described thepomegranate’s fascinating structureas “hidden treasure, wrapped up intulle”, while the revered Persian poetFerdowsî declared that “only theblushing cheeks of the beloved cancompare with it”.Federico García Lorca devoted a longpoem to the pomegranate, praisingits beauty along these lines: “It is atiny beehive/with a bloodstainedhoneycomb/for it was shaped by itsbees/from womens’ mouths./That iswhy it bursts open laughing/with thered of a thousand lips...” Who needsan advertising campaign?

Celia Hernando is a journalist thathas worker with the radio stationsCadena Ser and Punto Radio and isa trainee journalist at SpainGourmetour.

112 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 113

honey syrups) except that in thiscase pomegranate rather than grapemust is cooked down slowly,” sheexplains. María José uses theresulting syrup as an accompanimentto countless dishes. “Its propertiesare similar to, or even better than,those of balsamic vinegar,” sheexplains. “Its heady aroma enhancesthe flavor of walnuts and indeednuts in general, sharpens the flavorof poultry and pork, gives a littleacidic zing to fish and a touch ofastringency to salads.” She admits tohaving looked to the traditionalcooking of such countries as Iranand India for her inspiration, wherepomegranates are a commoningredient in everyday cooking.“When the season starts,

pomegranate juice is one of the mostpopular choices at street stalls,” sheexplains, “and in Turkey,pomegranate juice is used likevinegar for dressing salads.”

The stuff of legendCairo-born food writer ClaudiaRoden, acclaimed expert in thehistory of Mediterranean food,coined the adage “a country’s foodreflects its history”. She has studiedJewish culinary tradition and its linkswith that of Spain, which she definesas a happy fusion of Sephardic andMuslim food. In her Book of JewishFood, she mentions the symbolicsignificance of pomegranates,particularly during the solemn yet

festive Jewish New Year celebrations,when they symbolize “fecundity andrenewal… Oriental New Year mealsend with fresh dates, figs and aboveall pomegranates–all of which arementioned in the Bible–as the newfruits of the season. In Egypt, wethought pomegranates wouldcause our family to bear manychildren”. Pomegranates are alsopopularly believed to contain 613seeds, the same number as there arecommandments mentioned inthe Torah.Fertility, abundance, perfection,carnal desire, hope... Thepomegranate’s exotic nature evokesassociations with abstract nouns.According to Greek mythology, thefirst pomegranate was planted by

POMEGRANATES

FOODBASICS

POMEGRANATES

FOODBASICS

www.campodeelche.comCampo de Elche’s company website tells you everything you needto know about Mollar de Elche pomegranates: their provenance,nutritional properties, related articles and so on. Orders for fruit andjuice of this variety can be placed via this site.(Spanish)

www.altabix.comAltabix’s website provides information about the company and sellsits products on the internet.(Spanish)

www.cambayas.comCambadas Cooperative of Elche’s website. This company sells figs,oranges and vegetables as well as pomegranates.(English, Spanish)

W E B S I T E S

Mediterranean Sea

Valencia

Alicante

Castellónde la Plana

Murcia

Játiva

Elche

50 km / 31 mi

(Mollar de Játiva or Valencia)

(Mollar de Elche)

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They say you can know a person by what he does. If this is true,Kiko Moya is a devoted, careful and knowledgeable chef. He andhis cousin, Alberto Redrado Calavia, took over a family-ownedrestaurant and, following in the footsteps of their parents, brought

Restaurante L’Escaleta

Restaurante L’Escaleta.Subida Estación Norte, 20503820 Cocentaina, AlicanteTel: (+34) 965 592 100.www.lescaleta.com

5REC

IPES

RecipesKiko Moya

IntroductionAlmudena Muyo

TranslationJenny McDonald

Photos, introductionTomás Zarza/ICEX

Photos, foodToya Legido/ICEX

L’Escaleta up to Michelin-star standard. The chef and sommelier,respectively–the latter chose the wines for our recipes–are staunchadvocates of culinary coherence: everything used in a dish must bethere for a reason. Their creations are based on excellentproducts–cooked impeccably and decorated with style–and on thepreservation and renovation of legendary flavors. The results are thusoriginal, and often surprising, yet not outlandish.

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They say you can know a person by what he does. If this is true,Kiko Moya is a devoted, careful and knowledgeable chef. He andhis cousin, Alberto Redrado Calavia, took over a family-ownedrestaurant and, following in the footsteps of their parents, brought

Restaurante L’Escaleta

Restaurante L’Escaleta.Subida Estación Norte, 20503820 Cocentaina, AlicanteTel: (+34) 965 592 100.www.lescaleta.com

5REC

IPES

RecipesKiko Moya

IntroductionAlmudena Muyo

TranslationJenny McDonald

Photos, introductionTomás Zarza/ICEX

Photos, foodToya Legido/ICEX

L’Escaleta up to Michelin-star standard. The chef and sommelier,respectively–the latter chose the wines for our recipes–are staunchadvocates of culinary coherence: everything used in a dish must bethere for a reason. Their creations are based on excellentproducts–cooked impeccably and decorated with style–and on thepreservation and renovation of legendary flavors. The results are thusoriginal, and often surprising, yet not outlandish.

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116 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

POMEGRANATE

5RECIPES

The legends relating pomegranateseeds with paradise were the startingpoint for this salad. It is simplicityitself: all we do is dress the seeds withextra virgin olive oil and accompanythem with ginger ice cream.

SERVES 41 pomegranate; 1 tomato; 1 passion fruit;

5 g / 1/6 oz dried basil seeds; 15 g / 1/2 oz

trout roe; extra virgin olive oil; fresh basil

shoots; chervil; Maldon salt.

For the ginger ice cream: 1 l / 4 1/4 cup

whole milk; 250 g / 9 oz sugar; 90 g / 3 1/4

oz powdered skim milk; 60 g / 2 oz atomized

glucose; 40 g / 1 1/2 oz inverted sugar;

10 g / 1/3 oz neutral stabilizer; 200 g / 7 oz

fresh ginger; 340 g / 12 oz cream (35% fat);

120 g / 4 1/4 oz egg yolk.

Seed the pomegranate, tomato andpassion fruit. Retain just 2 passionfruit seeds per person and set aside.Place the basil seeds in water and leaveto soak.

For the ginger ice creamMix the solid ingredients (sugar,powdered milk, glucose and neutralstabilizer) and then mix the liquids(whole milk, inverted sugar, cream andegg yolk). Combine the two mixturesand bring to a temperature of 85ºC /185ºF. Remove from the heat and addthe ginger cut into pieces. Leave toinfuse for at least 8 hours. Strain, thentransfer to the ice cream maker.

To servePlace the seeds together with the troutroe, basil shoots and chervil. Dresswith extra virgin olive oil and top withginger ice cream.

Preparation time20 minutes

Cooking time8 hours for the ginger ice cream

Recommended winePedrouzos 2005 (DO Valdeorras) byBodegas Valdesil. Pedrouzos is theoldest Godelló vineyard in Galicia. Itsextremely slaty soil brings out themost jovial side of the Godelló variety.The notes of white flower (aniseed),pitted fruit and minerals (especiallysilex) marry perfectly with thebalsamic and salty flavors in the salad(provided by the basil and the roe),with the citric taste of the ginger andthe sweetness of the pomegranate andtomato. The wine’s firm palate andmarked density, with slight touches ofvegetable and bitterness, lengthen itseffect in the mouth, bringing to mindmemories of salads made from earlyspring produce.

Pomegranate seed salad and roewith ginger ice cream(Ensalada de semillas de granada y huevascon crema helada de jengibre)

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116 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

POMEGRANATE

5RECIPES

The legends relating pomegranateseeds with paradise were the startingpoint for this salad. It is simplicityitself: all we do is dress the seeds withextra virgin olive oil and accompanythem with ginger ice cream.

SERVES 41 pomegranate; 1 tomato; 1 passion fruit;

5 g / 1/6 oz dried basil seeds; 15 g / 1/2 oz

trout roe; extra virgin olive oil; fresh basil

shoots; chervil; Maldon salt.

For the ginger ice cream: 1 l / 4 1/4 cup

whole milk; 250 g / 9 oz sugar; 90 g / 3 1/4

oz powdered skim milk; 60 g / 2 oz atomized

glucose; 40 g / 1 1/2 oz inverted sugar;

10 g / 1/3 oz neutral stabilizer; 200 g / 7 oz

fresh ginger; 340 g / 12 oz cream (35% fat);

120 g / 4 1/4 oz egg yolk.

Seed the pomegranate, tomato andpassion fruit. Retain just 2 passionfruit seeds per person and set aside.Place the basil seeds in water and leaveto soak.

For the ginger ice creamMix the solid ingredients (sugar,powdered milk, glucose and neutralstabilizer) and then mix the liquids(whole milk, inverted sugar, cream andegg yolk). Combine the two mixturesand bring to a temperature of 85ºC /185ºF. Remove from the heat and addthe ginger cut into pieces. Leave toinfuse for at least 8 hours. Strain, thentransfer to the ice cream maker.

To servePlace the seeds together with the troutroe, basil shoots and chervil. Dresswith extra virgin olive oil and top withginger ice cream.

Preparation time20 minutes

Cooking time8 hours for the ginger ice cream

Recommended winePedrouzos 2005 (DO Valdeorras) byBodegas Valdesil. Pedrouzos is theoldest Godelló vineyard in Galicia. Itsextremely slaty soil brings out themost jovial side of the Godelló variety.The notes of white flower (aniseed),pitted fruit and minerals (especiallysilex) marry perfectly with thebalsamic and salty flavors in the salad(provided by the basil and the roe),with the citric taste of the ginger andthe sweetness of the pomegranate andtomato. The wine’s firm palate andmarked density, with slight touches ofvegetable and bitterness, lengthen itseffect in the mouth, bringing to mindmemories of salads made from earlyspring produce.

Pomegranate seed salad and roewith ginger ice cream(Ensalada de semillas de granada y huevascon crema helada de jengibre)

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118 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 119

SERVES 4250 g / 9 oz red tuna belly; rock salt; fresh

ginger; 4 Marcida olives; salad shoots (rocket,

beetroot and dandelion); 1 pomegranate;

capers.

For the beetroot vinaigrette: 400 g / 14 oz

beetroot (200 ml / 3/4 cups beetroot juice);

40 ml / 3 tbsp soy sauce; 2 g / 1/9 oz xanthan

gum; 50 ml / 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil.

For the salt-cured tuna bellyWithout trimming the tuna, cover it inrock salt, chill and leave to cure. The

time it takes will depend on the size ofthe piece. A piece measuring 6 x 6 x20 cm (2 x 2 x 8 in) should take about24 hours, but it is best to test it beforeremoving the salt. When fully cured,wash and remove the skin and anyflesh that has been in direct contactwith the salt. Wrap in film and chill.

For the beetroot vinaigretteWash the beetroot and liquidize. Take200 ml / 3/4 cups of the resulting juiceand mix in the soy sauce and xanthangum, being careful not to make any

lumps. Add the oil but do not beat.Cut the tuna into very thin slices (3-4mm / 0.12-0.16 in), lay out on a dishand brush with the beetroot vinaigrette.Grate a little ginger over the top.Remove the seeds from thepomegranate and chop the olives.

To serveFirst arrange the tuna slices (3-4 perperson), then top with the salad shootsand pomegranate seeds. Dress with thebeetroot vinaigrette and garnish witholives and capers.

Preparation time25 minutes

Cooking time24 hours to cure the tuna

Recommended wineManzanilla Pasada Pastrana (DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry, Manzanilla-Sanlúcar deBarrameda) by Bodegas Hidalgo-LaGitana. After aging under a veil ofyeasts, this Manzanilla is left for up to12 more years for what could be calleda process of semi-oxidation. The resultis greater complexity and an evennuttier aroma, while maintaining thefreshness and salinity that are featuresof Manzanilla sherries. This powerfulyet delicate character is needed toaccompany a salad in which thedominant flavors are salty tuna andearthy beetroot, alongside sweetpomegranate, sharp vinaigrette andbitter salad leaves.

The attractiveness and incomparable texture–both crisp and sweet–of a salad

containing pomegranate make the jewel-like seeds a frequent ingredient in

traditional salads. Here they serve as a foil to salty and mineral flavors.

Red tuna belly withbeetroot and pomegranate(Ventresca de atún rojode remolacha y granadas)

POMEGRANATE

5RECIPES

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118 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 119

SERVES 4250 g / 9 oz red tuna belly; rock salt; fresh

ginger; 4 Marcida olives; salad shoots (rocket,

beetroot and dandelion); 1 pomegranate;

capers.

For the beetroot vinaigrette: 400 g / 14 oz

beetroot (200 ml / 3/4 cups beetroot juice);

40 ml / 3 tbsp soy sauce; 2 g / 1/9 oz xanthan

gum; 50 ml / 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil.

For the salt-cured tuna bellyWithout trimming the tuna, cover it inrock salt, chill and leave to cure. The

time it takes will depend on the size ofthe piece. A piece measuring 6 x 6 x20 cm (2 x 2 x 8 in) should take about24 hours, but it is best to test it beforeremoving the salt. When fully cured,wash and remove the skin and anyflesh that has been in direct contactwith the salt. Wrap in film and chill.

For the beetroot vinaigretteWash the beetroot and liquidize. Take200 ml / 3/4 cups of the resulting juiceand mix in the soy sauce and xanthangum, being careful not to make any

lumps. Add the oil but do not beat.Cut the tuna into very thin slices (3-4mm / 0.12-0.16 in), lay out on a dishand brush with the beetroot vinaigrette.Grate a little ginger over the top.Remove the seeds from thepomegranate and chop the olives.

To serveFirst arrange the tuna slices (3-4 perperson), then top with the salad shootsand pomegranate seeds. Dress with thebeetroot vinaigrette and garnish witholives and capers.

Preparation time25 minutes

Cooking time24 hours to cure the tuna

Recommended wineManzanilla Pasada Pastrana (DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry, Manzanilla-Sanlúcar deBarrameda) by Bodegas Hidalgo-LaGitana. After aging under a veil ofyeasts, this Manzanilla is left for up to12 more years for what could be calleda process of semi-oxidation. The resultis greater complexity and an evennuttier aroma, while maintaining thefreshness and salinity that are featuresof Manzanilla sherries. This powerfulyet delicate character is needed toaccompany a salad in which thedominant flavors are salty tuna andearthy beetroot, alongside sweetpomegranate, sharp vinaigrette andbitter salad leaves.

The attractiveness and incomparable texture–both crisp and sweet–of a salad

containing pomegranate make the jewel-like seeds a frequent ingredient in

traditional salads. Here they serve as a foil to salty and mineral flavors.

Red tuna belly withbeetroot and pomegranate(Ventresca de atún rojode remolacha y granadas)

POMEGRANATE

5RECIPES

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5RECIPES

Wood pigeon marinatedin pomegranate juice, andsaffron gold(Paloma marinada en jugo degranadas, y oro de azafrán)

Our aim with this dish was to reflectthe Arab origins of the pomegranate onthe Iberian Peninsula. The aromas arereminiscent of a period when thepomegranate was venerated not onlyfor its beauty but also for its medicinalproperties. The rich juice is enhancedby spices such as cinnamon,cardamom, jasmine and rose water.Saffron, one of Spain’s gastronomictreasures, shines from the dish like ajewel, reminding us of the luxury andostentation of those golden times.

SERVES 42 whole wood pigeons; 4 slices bread; 200 g

/ 7 oz butter; 100 ml / 1/2 cup extra virgin

olive oil; Maldon salt; anise flowers; chives.

For the marinade: 5 pomegranates (1 l / 4

1/4 cup pomegranate juice); 1 l / 4 1/4 cup

red wine; 1 cinnamon stick; 5 green

cardamom seeds; 5 juniper seeds; 1 star

anise; 6 green aniseeds; 200 ml / 3/4 cups

rose water; 12 jasmine flowers; 5 Jamaica

peppercorns.

For the dark pigeon stock: bones of 2

wood pigeons; 1 carrot; 1 turnip; 5 shallots;

half a leek; 1 1/2 l / 6 1/2 cup water; extra

virgin olive oil.

For the saffron gold: 200 ml / 3/4 cups

clarified dark stock; 1/2 g / 0.02 oz saffron;

2 g / 1/9 oz xanthan gum; 3 g / 0.10 oz

powdered edible gold.

For the marinated wood pigeonFirst make the pomegranate juice byremoving the seeds and liquidizing

them. This should result in 1 l / 4 1/4cup of juice into which the othermarinade ingredients should beplaced.Remove the breasts from the twopigeons but do not bone. Use the restof the birds for the dark stock. Placethe breasts in the marinade and leavefor about 8 hours. Remove and keepthe skins. Dice the flesh into 5 mm /0.20 in cubes.

For the dark pigeon stockBrown the pigeon bones together withthe thighs. Add the diced vegetablesand bake until caramelized. Pour overthe water and simmer for 4 hours,without reducing too much. Strain andclarify with a vegetable brunoise and abeaten egg white. Strain again.

For the saffron goldRoast and crush the saffron and add tothe clarified stock. Reduce to 200 ml /3/4 cups, thicken with xanthan gum,check the salt and try to avoid lumps.Finally, add the powdered gold. Softenthe butter, then beat in a Robot untilfluffy. Turn into a mold and, when set,cut into cubes. Trim the slices of breadto 5 x 10 x 0.5 cm (2 x 4 x 0.20 in),sprinkle with extra virgin olive oil andtoast. Strain the marinade and reduceto form a thick syrup (2 l / 8 1/2 cup).Brown the pigeon skins in a non-stickskillet and cut into julienne strips.

To serveArrange the breast of pigeon on thetoast and drizzle with extra virgin olive

oil. Sprinkle with Maldon salt andpour over some of the reducedmarinade. Decorate with the juliennestrips of skin and chopped chives.Dress the dish with the saffron goldand add the butter cubes.

Preparation time35 minutes

Cooking time8 hours for the marinade

Recommended wineLustau Almacenista Oloroso Pata deGallina 1/38, by Bodegas EmilioLustau (DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry,Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda).Here we need a well-rounded wine tobring together the different textures,one that has character and strength tostand up to the marinade as well assufficient acidity to partner the poultry.Juan García-Jarana sells small amountsfrom his 38 barrels of this wonderfulOloroso to the Emilio Lustau winery,which distributes it as part of theAlmacenista range. Pata de Gallina hasa powerful, concentrated aroma withtraces of fruit, chocolate, coffee andwood, and an exquisite, intense flavor.The sweetness of its alcohol contentgives way to a slightly acidic finish,making it the perfect partner for thisdish. It allows us to enjoy the meatwhile leaving us a wonderful aftertasteof toast and sweet spice with each sip.

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120 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

POMEGRANATE

5RECIPES

Wood pigeon marinatedin pomegranate juice, andsaffron gold(Paloma marinada en jugo degranadas, y oro de azafrán)

Our aim with this dish was to reflectthe Arab origins of the pomegranate onthe Iberian Peninsula. The aromas arereminiscent of a period when thepomegranate was venerated not onlyfor its beauty but also for its medicinalproperties. The rich juice is enhancedby spices such as cinnamon,cardamom, jasmine and rose water.Saffron, one of Spain’s gastronomictreasures, shines from the dish like ajewel, reminding us of the luxury andostentation of those golden times.

SERVES 42 whole wood pigeons; 4 slices bread; 200 g

/ 7 oz butter; 100 ml / 1/2 cup extra virgin

olive oil; Maldon salt; anise flowers; chives.

For the marinade: 5 pomegranates (1 l / 4

1/4 cup pomegranate juice); 1 l / 4 1/4 cup

red wine; 1 cinnamon stick; 5 green

cardamom seeds; 5 juniper seeds; 1 star

anise; 6 green aniseeds; 200 ml / 3/4 cups

rose water; 12 jasmine flowers; 5 Jamaica

peppercorns.

For the dark pigeon stock: bones of 2

wood pigeons; 1 carrot; 1 turnip; 5 shallots;

half a leek; 1 1/2 l / 6 1/2 cup water; extra

virgin olive oil.

For the saffron gold: 200 ml / 3/4 cups

clarified dark stock; 1/2 g / 0.02 oz saffron;

2 g / 1/9 oz xanthan gum; 3 g / 0.10 oz

powdered edible gold.

For the marinated wood pigeonFirst make the pomegranate juice byremoving the seeds and liquidizing

them. This should result in 1 l / 4 1/4cup of juice into which the othermarinade ingredients should beplaced.Remove the breasts from the twopigeons but do not bone. Use the restof the birds for the dark stock. Placethe breasts in the marinade and leavefor about 8 hours. Remove and keepthe skins. Dice the flesh into 5 mm /0.20 in cubes.

For the dark pigeon stockBrown the pigeon bones together withthe thighs. Add the diced vegetablesand bake until caramelized. Pour overthe water and simmer for 4 hours,without reducing too much. Strain andclarify with a vegetable brunoise and abeaten egg white. Strain again.

For the saffron goldRoast and crush the saffron and add tothe clarified stock. Reduce to 200 ml /3/4 cups, thicken with xanthan gum,check the salt and try to avoid lumps.Finally, add the powdered gold. Softenthe butter, then beat in a Robot untilfluffy. Turn into a mold and, when set,cut into cubes. Trim the slices of breadto 5 x 10 x 0.5 cm (2 x 4 x 0.20 in),sprinkle with extra virgin olive oil andtoast. Strain the marinade and reduceto form a thick syrup (2 l / 8 1/2 cup).Brown the pigeon skins in a non-stickskillet and cut into julienne strips.

To serveArrange the breast of pigeon on thetoast and drizzle with extra virgin olive

oil. Sprinkle with Maldon salt andpour over some of the reducedmarinade. Decorate with the juliennestrips of skin and chopped chives.Dress the dish with the saffron goldand add the butter cubes.

Preparation time35 minutes

Cooking time8 hours for the marinade

Recommended wineLustau Almacenista Oloroso Pata deGallina 1/38, by Bodegas EmilioLustau (DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry,Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda).Here we need a well-rounded wine tobring together the different textures,one that has character and strength tostand up to the marinade as well assufficient acidity to partner the poultry.Juan García-Jarana sells small amountsfrom his 38 barrels of this wonderfulOloroso to the Emilio Lustau winery,which distributes it as part of theAlmacenista range. Pata de Gallina hasa powerful, concentrated aroma withtraces of fruit, chocolate, coffee andwood, and an exquisite, intense flavor.The sweetness of its alcohol contentgives way to a slightly acidic finish,making it the perfect partner for thisdish. It allows us to enjoy the meatwhile leaving us a wonderful aftertasteof toast and sweet spice with each sip.

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JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 123

The keys to this dish are thepomegranate texture and the way ittastes. The flowery combinationformed by the honey, almond and roseis enhanced by the small bursts offlavor that come when you bite intothe sweet and sour pomegranate seeds.

SERVES 41 pomegranate

For the almond milk: 500 ml / 2 1/6 cups

water; 600 g / 1 lb 5 oz Marcona almonds;

100 g / 3 1/2 oz honey; 25 g / 1 oz sugar.

For the rose jelly: 1 whole rose; 100 g / 3

1/2 oz rose water; 100 g / 3 1/2 oz water; 20

g / 1 oz sugar; 2 g / 1/9 oz xanthan gum.

For the rose-flavored spun sugar: 100 g / 3

1/2 oz sugar; 8 dried rose petals.

Remove the seeds from thepomegranate and set aside.

For the almond milkCrush the almonds with the water andleave to stand for 12 hours. Liquidizethe mixture, blending it three timesuntil a dry paste forms. Take about200 g / 7 oz and make into icedpowder using a Pacojet. Mix the honey

and sugar into the rest of the almondmilk (1 l / 4 1/4 cup).

For the rose jellyMix the water and rose water, add thexanthan gum and sugar. Use ablender to avoid the formation oflumps. It is then necessary to removeany air by placing it in a vacuumpack. Brunoise the rose petals andadd to the jellied liquid.

For the rose-flavored spunsugarPlace the sugar in a candy spinnerand spin, then add the crushed,dried rose petals.

To servePlace the pomegranate seeds on aplate with the rose jelly and the icedpowder. Top with the spun sugar.Finally, drizzle the almond milkwhich will immediately melt thespun sugar and the iced powder.

Preparation time25 minutes

Cooking time24 hours for the almond milk

Recommended wineFor a dessert in which the flower andred fruit flavors dominate and inwhich the main element is almondmilk, we have chosen a Nadal 1510late harvest (2000) (DO Penedès) byNadal Cava. It is a sweet white madefrom Macabeo grapes harvested underthe effect of “noble rot” (Botrytiscinerea) and aged carefully in oak. Thelow level of acidity, a sugar contentslightly higher than that of the dessert,clear floral notes, slight touches ofhoney, lychee and balsamic touchesfrom the botrytis make it a good matchfor the almond milk. Then comes afinish of orange blossom and citrusfruits, reminiscent of Alicante-styleturrón.

POMEGRANATE

5RECIPES

Almond milk, rose-flavoredspun sugar and pomegranate(Leche de almendras, algodónde rosas y granadas)

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The keys to this dish are thepomegranate texture and the way ittastes. The flowery combinationformed by the honey, almond and roseis enhanced by the small bursts offlavor that come when you bite intothe sweet and sour pomegranate seeds.

SERVES 41 pomegranate

For the almond milk: 500 ml / 2 1/6 cups

water; 600 g / 1 lb 5 oz Marcona almonds;

100 g / 3 1/2 oz honey; 25 g / 1 oz sugar.

For the rose jelly: 1 whole rose; 100 g / 3

1/2 oz rose water; 100 g / 3 1/2 oz water; 20

g / 1 oz sugar; 2 g / 1/9 oz xanthan gum.

For the rose-flavored spun sugar: 100 g / 3

1/2 oz sugar; 8 dried rose petals.

Remove the seeds from thepomegranate and set aside.

For the almond milkCrush the almonds with the water andleave to stand for 12 hours. Liquidizethe mixture, blending it three timesuntil a dry paste forms. Take about200 g / 7 oz and make into icedpowder using a Pacojet. Mix the honey

and sugar into the rest of the almondmilk (1 l / 4 1/4 cup).

For the rose jellyMix the water and rose water, add thexanthan gum and sugar. Use ablender to avoid the formation oflumps. It is then necessary to removeany air by placing it in a vacuumpack. Brunoise the rose petals andadd to the jellied liquid.

For the rose-flavored spunsugarPlace the sugar in a candy spinnerand spin, then add the crushed,dried rose petals.

To servePlace the pomegranate seeds on aplate with the rose jelly and the icedpowder. Top with the spun sugar.Finally, drizzle the almond milkwhich will immediately melt thespun sugar and the iced powder.

Preparation time25 minutes

Cooking time24 hours for the almond milk

Recommended wineFor a dessert in which the flower andred fruit flavors dominate and inwhich the main element is almondmilk, we have chosen a Nadal 1510late harvest (2000) (DO Penedès) byNadal Cava. It is a sweet white madefrom Macabeo grapes harvested underthe effect of “noble rot” (Botrytiscinerea) and aged carefully in oak. Thelow level of acidity, a sugar contentslightly higher than that of the dessert,clear floral notes, slight touches ofhoney, lychee and balsamic touchesfrom the botrytis make it a good matchfor the almond milk. Then comes afinish of orange blossom and citrusfruits, reminiscent of Alicante-styleturrón.

POMEGRANATE

5RECIPES

Almond milk, rose-flavoredspun sugar and pomegranate(Leche de almendras, algodónde rosas y granadas)

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124 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

For the citrus confitBlanch the citrus fruits in threechanges of water. Make a syrup withthe sugar and water and pour over.Confit for at least 24 hours. Drain andcut into cubes.

For the eucalyptus ice creamMix the solids (powdered milk, sugar,atomized glucose and stabilizer) andthen the liquids (whole milk, invertedsugar, cream and egg yolk). Combinethe two mixtures and raise to atemperature of 85ºC / 185ºF. Removefrom the heat and add the eucalyptus

leaves. Leave to infuse for about 12hours. Strain and make into ice cream.

To serveAdd the pomegranate seeds to theMuscatel jelly. Gradually add theflowers (possible autumn flowersmight be jasmine, rosemary andnasturtium) and the citrus confit. Cutthe mint leaves into julienne strips andadd. Finally, top with a quenelle ofeucalyptus ice cream.

Preparation time25 minutes

Cooking time24 hours for the citrus confit

Recommended wineCasta Diva Cosecha Miel 2005 (DOAlicante) by Bodegas Gutiérrez de laVega. By choosing the same wine that isincluded in the ingredients, the aromasand flavors are appreciated twice over,from the spoon and from the glass.

SERVES 41 pomegranate; 2 mint leaves; seasonal

flowers; 2 cubes (5 x 5 x 5 mm /

0.20 x 0.20 x 0.20 in) arrop i tallaetes

(pumpkin in fig syrup).

For the muscatel jelly: 500 ml / 2 1/6 cups

Casta Diva Cosecha Miel (Bodegas Gutiérrez

de la Vega); 5 g / 1/6 oz xanthan gum.

For the citrus confit: 1 orange; 1 lemon;

1 l / 4 1/4 cup water; 1 kg / 2 1/4 lb sugar.

For the eucalyptus ice cream: 1 l / 4

1/4 cup whole milk; 250 g / 9 oz sugar;

90 g / 3 oz powdered skim milk; 60 g /

2 oz atomized glucose; 40 g / 1 1/2 oz

inverted sugar; 10 g / 1/3 oz neutral stabilizer;

80 g / 3 oz eucalyptus leaves; 340 g / 12 oz

cream (35% fat); 120 g / 4 1/2 oz egg yolk.

Seed the pomegranate and cut the“arrop i tallaetes” into cubes.

For the muscatel jellyAdd the xanthan gum to the Muscateland mix until smooth, with no lumps.Some bubbles will appear becauseone of the qualities of this gellingagent is that it retains air, which canbe removed by transferring themixture to a bowl and placing it in avacuum pack. This process is bestcarried out 12 hours in advance sothat the xantham gum gels.

Pomegranate with Muscatel,citrus confit and eucalyptus ice cream(Granadas con moscatel, cítricos confitadosy helado de eucalipto)An excellent Muscatel brings out the best from this classic dish.

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For the citrus confitBlanch the citrus fruits in threechanges of water. Make a syrup withthe sugar and water and pour over.Confit for at least 24 hours. Drain andcut into cubes.

For the eucalyptus ice creamMix the solids (powdered milk, sugar,atomized glucose and stabilizer) andthen the liquids (whole milk, invertedsugar, cream and egg yolk). Combinethe two mixtures and raise to atemperature of 85ºC / 185ºF. Removefrom the heat and add the eucalyptus

leaves. Leave to infuse for about 12hours. Strain and make into ice cream.

To serveAdd the pomegranate seeds to theMuscatel jelly. Gradually add theflowers (possible autumn flowersmight be jasmine, rosemary andnasturtium) and the citrus confit. Cutthe mint leaves into julienne strips andadd. Finally, top with a quenelle ofeucalyptus ice cream.

Preparation time25 minutes

Cooking time24 hours for the citrus confit

Recommended wineCasta Diva Cosecha Miel 2005 (DOAlicante) by Bodegas Gutiérrez de laVega. By choosing the same wine that isincluded in the ingredients, the aromasand flavors are appreciated twice over,from the spoon and from the glass.

SERVES 41 pomegranate; 2 mint leaves; seasonal

flowers; 2 cubes (5 x 5 x 5 mm /

0.20 x 0.20 x 0.20 in) arrop i tallaetes

(pumpkin in fig syrup).

For the muscatel jelly: 500 ml / 2 1/6 cups

Casta Diva Cosecha Miel (Bodegas Gutiérrez

de la Vega); 5 g / 1/6 oz xanthan gum.

For the citrus confit: 1 orange; 1 lemon;

1 l / 4 1/4 cup water; 1 kg / 2 1/4 lb sugar.

For the eucalyptus ice cream: 1 l / 4

1/4 cup whole milk; 250 g / 9 oz sugar;

90 g / 3 oz powdered skim milk; 60 g /

2 oz atomized glucose; 40 g / 1 1/2 oz

inverted sugar; 10 g / 1/3 oz neutral stabilizer;

80 g / 3 oz eucalyptus leaves; 340 g / 12 oz

cream (35% fat); 120 g / 4 1/2 oz egg yolk.

Seed the pomegranate and cut the“arrop i tallaetes” into cubes.

For the muscatel jellyAdd the xanthan gum to the Muscateland mix until smooth, with no lumps.Some bubbles will appear becauseone of the qualities of this gellingagent is that it retains air, which canbe removed by transferring themixture to a bowl and placing it in avacuum pack. This process is bestcarried out 12 hours in advance sothat the xantham gum gels.

Pomegranate with Muscatel,citrus confit and eucalyptus ice cream(Granadas con moscatel, cítricos confitadosy helado de eucalipto)An excellent Muscatel brings out the best from this classic dish.

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Sea vegetables. That’s what AntonioMuiños likes to call seaweed. We arein a remote part of Spain’snorthwestern edge, near Cambre (LaCoruña) on the Atlantic coast, andAntonio is doing me the honor ofshowing me his personal “marketgarden” from which he collects aproportion of the 110 tonnes(242,508 lbs) of seaweed that hiscompany, Porto-Muiños, processeseach year. “I don’t bring manypeople here,” he admits, concernedthat increasing demand andunscrupulous harvesting mightexhaust supply. I feel privileged, notonly because he clearly thinks I’m

trustworthy, but also because I havebeen lucky enough to come here ona day when the Atlantic is in abenevolent mood and well-behaved.The sea is particularly calm, itswaters luminous and they are anintense blue that, but for the cliffs, isreminiscent of another, gentler, sea.Furthermore, the tide is convenientlyout. This means that Antonio is ableshow me, alongside the goosebarnacles and mussels attached tohabitually wave-battered rocks,seaweeds such as sea lettuce (Ulvarigida), “which is harvested byselecting the healthiest, cleanest,most vigorous examples, still

attached to the rocks and free ofresidual sand”; nori (Porphyrapurpurea), “which awakens fromdormancy in spring and thendevelops spectacularly, later losingits color and dying from too muchsunshine and extreme temperatures”,and sea spaghetti (Himantaliaelongata) which “as if by magic,appears in the depths of winter everyyear and grows at an amazing rate sothat by the middle of spring its longribbons become flavorful, tender andnutritious,” and a selection of othervarieties still being studied for theircommercial potential. He gives mesome to try and, indeed, the taste is

126 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

TextAlmudena Muyo

TranslationHawys Pritchard

PhotosPorto-Muiños

Not so long ago, edible seaweeds were something we associated almost exclusively with

oriental cuisine. Now they have started appearing in top-flight European restaurants.

More than 600 varieties of algae grow on the Galician coastline in the northwest of the

Iberian Peninsula, just under 20 of which are sold by Antonio Muiños and Rosa Mirás

through their company, Porto-Muiños. They have cleverly launched a major informative

campaign to educate potential consumers about how to eat them and what their

nutritional attributes are.

Porto-Muiños

A TASTE OF THE SEA

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Sea vegetables. That’s what AntonioMuiños likes to call seaweed. We arein a remote part of Spain’snorthwestern edge, near Cambre (LaCoruña) on the Atlantic coast, andAntonio is doing me the honor ofshowing me his personal “marketgarden” from which he collects aproportion of the 110 tonnes(242,508 lbs) of seaweed that hiscompany, Porto-Muiños, processeseach year. “I don’t bring manypeople here,” he admits, concernedthat increasing demand andunscrupulous harvesting mightexhaust supply. I feel privileged, notonly because he clearly thinks I’m

trustworthy, but also because I havebeen lucky enough to come here ona day when the Atlantic is in abenevolent mood and well-behaved.The sea is particularly calm, itswaters luminous and they are anintense blue that, but for the cliffs, isreminiscent of another, gentler, sea.Furthermore, the tide is convenientlyout. This means that Antonio is ableshow me, alongside the goosebarnacles and mussels attached tohabitually wave-battered rocks,seaweeds such as sea lettuce (Ulvarigida), “which is harvested byselecting the healthiest, cleanest,most vigorous examples, still

attached to the rocks and free ofresidual sand”; nori (Porphyrapurpurea), “which awakens fromdormancy in spring and thendevelops spectacularly, later losingits color and dying from too muchsunshine and extreme temperatures”,and sea spaghetti (Himantaliaelongata) which “as if by magic,appears in the depths of winter everyyear and grows at an amazing rate sothat by the middle of spring its longribbons become flavorful, tender andnutritious,” and a selection of othervarieties still being studied for theircommercial potential. He gives mesome to try and, indeed, the taste is

126 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

TextAlmudena Muyo

TranslationHawys Pritchard

PhotosPorto-Muiños

Not so long ago, edible seaweeds were something we associated almost exclusively with

oriental cuisine. Now they have started appearing in top-flight European restaurants.

More than 600 varieties of algae grow on the Galician coastline in the northwest of the

Iberian Peninsula, just under 20 of which are sold by Antonio Muiños and Rosa Mirás

through their company, Porto-Muiños. They have cleverly launched a major informative

campaign to educate potential consumers about how to eat them and what their

nutritional attributes are.

Porto-Muiños

A TASTE OF THE SEA

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GastronomicbackingPorto-Muiños’ career path has alwaysbeen envisaged with the long-term inmind, and it certainly shows noreluctance in forging ahead. This islargely due to Antonio Muiños’clarity of vision: he recognized fromthe start that integrating edibleseaweeds into the food culture of thewestern world was something inwhich top chefs would have to beinstrumental. “I sent them allsamples of different algae so thatthey could experiment with themand create dishes that would openup new horizons in terms of tasteand texture,” explains Antonio, whohas rejoined us now after dealing

with some matter that required hisattention in the canning hall. Hisstrategy succeeded in engaging theattention of none other than FerránAdrià, who went so far as to declare,at the 5th Madrid FusionInternational GastronomyConference held in mid-January lastyear: “Muiños has shown me awonderful world. Gastronomicallyspeaking, the sea is interesting notonly for the diversity of its animalspecies, but also for the wealth of itsvegetable ones.” This was not anempty assertion. He demonstrateshis point with a sea vegetable dishentitled ‘The Sea’, available at hisfamous restaurant, elBulli (3Michelin stars).Other Spanish chefs also found thealgae inspiring. At his La Broche

restaurant (2 Michelin stars), SergiAriola serves a crujiente de algas(seaweed crisp) and a romescu dealgas (seaweed romesco sauce), andAndoni Luis Aduriz from Mugaritz(2 Michelin stars) uses themprimarily as aromats, though theyalso occupy center stage in certaindishes such as foie gras de lechuga demar (sea lettuce foie gras). AndrésMadrigal from the restaurantAlboroque opts for powderedseaweed as a flour substitute,especially in desserts, while ÁngelLeón from El Tambuche uses themin tempura. All of theaforementioned, along with CarmenRuscalleda from Sant Pau (3Michelin stars), Quique Dacostafrom El Poblet (2 Michelin stars) andJoaquín Felipe from Europa Decó

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very evocative of the sea and thetextures, whether cartilaginous,fleshy or crunchy, are pleasant andexcitingly unfamiliar in my mouth.As we jump from rock to rock, Ilearn that up to 618 species havebeen recorded on the Galician coast,of which nearly 100 are macroalgae,which is to say that they possesscharacteristics that make them idealto be used in cooking. Porto-Muiñoscurrently markets seven varieties ofseaweed in fresh, salted anddehydrated forms, and has justextended its catalogue with eightadditional species (see box on page130) as a result of the R&D projectin which it is involved with theUniversity of La Coruña. “In Galicia,we have a wide diversity of speciesand one of the biggest and bestbanks,” Manuela Buján, thecompany’s biologist, explains laterback at the plant.To get back to companyheadquarters, we have to negotiate awinding, unsignposted track thateventually meets up with the localmain road. It all helps to preservethe site’s secrecy. “Algae are directdescendents from some of the oldestlife forms on the planet. Theymanufacture most of the oxygen webreathe. They need only water andlight to live and, in return, theyprovide us with more minerals andoligoelements than any other livingbeing. I just can’t understand whywe have taken so little notice ofthem here in the West, especially incoastal areas,” muses Antonio as hedrives, apparently on automaticpilot. In 1998, with the aim ofredressing this lack of business

interest, Antonio and his life andbusiness partner, Rosa Mirás,decided to launch their own ventureinto Galician waters–little exploredyet known to be full of riches. Theiroverriding objective was to achieve ahigher profile for edible seaweeds inwestern gastronomy.

Research-basedThey founded their enterprise onresearch, establishing what has turnedout to be a fruitful and enduringrelationship with biologist Dr. JavierCremades of La Coruña University.Their first research project, in whichthe Santander Oceanographic Centerwas also involved, focused oncultivating algae as a foodstuff.“Basically, what it entailed wasstudying the species best suited forcultivation, establishing their lifecycles so as to identify precisely theright time for sowing, the mostappropriate method and depth, whatmaterials to use for the park and itslocation. The result was a “farm”,similar to a mussel bed, growingwakame (Undaria pinnatifida) andsugar kombu (Laminaria saccharina)in the Sada estuary in northwesternGalicia,” Manuela explains.Consequently, around 20% of theseaweeds they sell are farmed and theremaining 80% are simply gatheredfrom the sea. “We’re just planningahead as regards both the companyand the environment. We could havea bad year when there’s a shortage ofsome species, perhaps because seaconditions make it impossible to pickthem or because they have beendamaged or torn from the substratum

by storms, and it’s vital to keepuncertainty to a minimum for ourcustomers. Furthermore it providesan alternative for those species whosereproduction in the naturalenvironment fluctuates a lot,” addsAntonio, before handing me over toManuela and Rosa for a visit to thesea urchin canning and bottling line.Among the products processed atPorto-Muiños are sea urchin, cannedand/or bottled monkfish liver andmonkfish liver with sea urchin caviar,of which almost the entire productionis exported to Japan. “The Japanesesee them as a delicacy–they just can’tget enough,” declares Jorge M. Krey,the company’s export director, whohas just joined us.While they try to put the finishingtouches on the complicatedequipment needed to startcultivating other species–“whichcould be sea lettuce and some otherfloating variety,” reveals Manuelarather reluctantly–they are alsoheavily involved in bringing out acomplete range of processedproducts in which seaweed is theprincipal ingredient. This is a petproject of Rosa’s. So far, canned seaurchin caviar with seaweed, musselswith seaweed in white marinade andtea with seaweed have alreadyreached the shops. Next up to belaunched are seaweed pasta andbiscuits and seaweed scented extravirgin olive oil and vinegar. Jorgetells me that they are even in touchwith a Belgian chocolatemanufacturer about incorporatingseaweed into his products.

PORTO-MUIÑOS

BUSINESSWATCH

PORTO-MUIÑOS

BUSINESSWATCH

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GastronomicbackingPorto-Muiños’ career path has alwaysbeen envisaged with the long-term inmind, and it certainly shows noreluctance in forging ahead. This islargely due to Antonio Muiños’clarity of vision: he recognized fromthe start that integrating edibleseaweeds into the food culture of thewestern world was something inwhich top chefs would have to beinstrumental. “I sent them allsamples of different algae so thatthey could experiment with themand create dishes that would openup new horizons in terms of tasteand texture,” explains Antonio, whohas rejoined us now after dealing

with some matter that required hisattention in the canning hall. Hisstrategy succeeded in engaging theattention of none other than FerránAdrià, who went so far as to declare,at the 5th Madrid FusionInternational GastronomyConference held in mid-January lastyear: “Muiños has shown me awonderful world. Gastronomicallyspeaking, the sea is interesting notonly for the diversity of its animalspecies, but also for the wealth of itsvegetable ones.” This was not anempty assertion. He demonstrateshis point with a sea vegetable dishentitled ‘The Sea’, available at hisfamous restaurant, elBulli (3Michelin stars).Other Spanish chefs also found thealgae inspiring. At his La Broche

restaurant (2 Michelin stars), SergiAriola serves a crujiente de algas(seaweed crisp) and a romescu dealgas (seaweed romesco sauce), andAndoni Luis Aduriz from Mugaritz(2 Michelin stars) uses themprimarily as aromats, though theyalso occupy center stage in certaindishes such as foie gras de lechuga demar (sea lettuce foie gras). AndrésMadrigal from the restaurantAlboroque opts for powderedseaweed as a flour substitute,especially in desserts, while ÁngelLeón from El Tambuche uses themin tempura. All of theaforementioned, along with CarmenRuscalleda from Sant Pau (3Michelin stars), Quique Dacostafrom El Poblet (2 Michelin stars) andJoaquín Felipe from Europa Decó

128 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 129

very evocative of the sea and thetextures, whether cartilaginous,fleshy or crunchy, are pleasant andexcitingly unfamiliar in my mouth.As we jump from rock to rock, Ilearn that up to 618 species havebeen recorded on the Galician coast,of which nearly 100 are macroalgae,which is to say that they possesscharacteristics that make them idealto be used in cooking. Porto-Muiñoscurrently markets seven varieties ofseaweed in fresh, salted anddehydrated forms, and has justextended its catalogue with eightadditional species (see box on page130) as a result of the R&D projectin which it is involved with theUniversity of La Coruña. “In Galicia,we have a wide diversity of speciesand one of the biggest and bestbanks,” Manuela Buján, thecompany’s biologist, explains laterback at the plant.To get back to companyheadquarters, we have to negotiate awinding, unsignposted track thateventually meets up with the localmain road. It all helps to preservethe site’s secrecy. “Algae are directdescendents from some of the oldestlife forms on the planet. Theymanufacture most of the oxygen webreathe. They need only water andlight to live and, in return, theyprovide us with more minerals andoligoelements than any other livingbeing. I just can’t understand whywe have taken so little notice ofthem here in the West, especially incoastal areas,” muses Antonio as hedrives, apparently on automaticpilot. In 1998, with the aim ofredressing this lack of business

interest, Antonio and his life andbusiness partner, Rosa Mirás,decided to launch their own ventureinto Galician waters–little exploredyet known to be full of riches. Theiroverriding objective was to achieve ahigher profile for edible seaweeds inwestern gastronomy.

Research-basedThey founded their enterprise onresearch, establishing what has turnedout to be a fruitful and enduringrelationship with biologist Dr. JavierCremades of La Coruña University.Their first research project, in whichthe Santander Oceanographic Centerwas also involved, focused oncultivating algae as a foodstuff.“Basically, what it entailed wasstudying the species best suited forcultivation, establishing their lifecycles so as to identify precisely theright time for sowing, the mostappropriate method and depth, whatmaterials to use for the park and itslocation. The result was a “farm”,similar to a mussel bed, growingwakame (Undaria pinnatifida) andsugar kombu (Laminaria saccharina)in the Sada estuary in northwesternGalicia,” Manuela explains.Consequently, around 20% of theseaweeds they sell are farmed and theremaining 80% are simply gatheredfrom the sea. “We’re just planningahead as regards both the companyand the environment. We could havea bad year when there’s a shortage ofsome species, perhaps because seaconditions make it impossible to pickthem or because they have beendamaged or torn from the substratum

by storms, and it’s vital to keepuncertainty to a minimum for ourcustomers. Furthermore it providesan alternative for those species whosereproduction in the naturalenvironment fluctuates a lot,” addsAntonio, before handing me over toManuela and Rosa for a visit to thesea urchin canning and bottling line.Among the products processed atPorto-Muiños are sea urchin, cannedand/or bottled monkfish liver andmonkfish liver with sea urchin caviar,of which almost the entire productionis exported to Japan. “The Japanesesee them as a delicacy–they just can’tget enough,” declares Jorge M. Krey,the company’s export director, whohas just joined us.While they try to put the finishingtouches on the complicatedequipment needed to startcultivating other species–“whichcould be sea lettuce and some otherfloating variety,” reveals Manuelarather reluctantly–they are alsoheavily involved in bringing out acomplete range of processedproducts in which seaweed is theprincipal ingredient. This is a petproject of Rosa’s. So far, canned seaurchin caviar with seaweed, musselswith seaweed in white marinade andtea with seaweed have alreadyreached the shops. Next up to belaunched are seaweed pasta andbiscuits and seaweed scented extravirgin olive oil and vinegar. Jorgetells me that they are even in touchwith a Belgian chocolatemanufacturer about incorporatingseaweed into his products.

PORTO-MUIÑOS

BUSINESSWATCH

PORTO-MUIÑOS

BUSINESSWATCH

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One recent result of theresearch project in whichPorto-Muiños is currentlyengaged in conjunction withthe University of La Coruña isthat eight new species havebeen made available to hautecuisine. Meanwhile, researchcontinues regarding theirproperties and combinationsto be applied in homecooking. The new specieswill join the ranks of theseven already available in theshops, whose organolepticproperties and nutritional andgastronomic attributes are nolonger a mystery.

Sea spaghetti(Himanthalia elongata)

A beautiful and distinctiveAtlantic seaweed with strap-like fronds that growsabundantly on tide-washedrocks along clean, wave-battered coasts.• Properties: Its fleshy frondshave a delicate sea flavor, verysimilar to clams and cockles. Itis particularly notable for itshigh content of vitamin C andassimilable iron.• In cooking: As it comes ordressed with young garlic. Itcombines very well with ricedishes, pasta and legumes,and is also useful as a garnishfor fish and for making soups,fritters, scrambled egg dishes,croquettes, pies, canapés, etc.

Kombu(Laminaria ochroleuca)

A brown seaweed that growson clean coasts battered bythe Atlantic, where it formsunderwater forests. Its palmateblade, divided into severalribbons, grows from a long,thick stem firmlyattached to the rocks.• Properties: Its ribbons havea strongly iodized, slightlysmoky sea flavor. It isexceptionally abundant incalcium, magnesium,potassium, phosphorus, iodineand vitamins B and C.• In cooking: Because of itsglutamic acid content, itenhances the flavors of thefoods with which it is cooked,and is also a very effectivethickener because it contains agreat deal of soluble fiber,which is particularly useful formaking sauces. It can also beused as a garnish or a layer inmeat and fish dishes, forwrapping rice, fish and meat,and it can be incorporated intostews, soups, rice dishes,croquettes and hamburgers.When lightly baked and groundup, it makes a marvelousseasoning.

Sea lettuce(Ulva rigida)

This blade seaweed adheres tothe rocks by means of a littledisk, and grows in well-lit,nutrient-rich waters. It is smalland bright green in color.• Properties: Thin andcartilaginous, it has a delicatetexture when fresh and a flavorsuggestive of crustaceanseafood. It is very high inprotein and also rich incalcium, magnesium,potassium, vitamin C andniacin.• In cooking: It can bedressed in a salad, baked orfried, and makes a goodingredient for sauces, soups,savory purées, legume dishes,croquettes and pies. Toenhance its flavor, it can belightly baked in the oven andthen used to wrap up rice withraw or marinated fish.

Sugar kombu(Laminaria saccharina)

A cold-water species thatforms lovely underwatermeadows on sandy coastswhere the waters are cleanand currents are strong.• Properties: Fleshy andslightly crunchy, this is verypleasant to chew and has acharacteristic sweetish, mild,marine flavor. It is rich incalcium, magnesium,potassium, phosphorus, iodineand vitamins B and C.• In cooking: Au naturel, cutinto thin strips, this can serveas a good base for a salad.When added to legume-basedstews, it enhances flavors andreduces cooking times.Because of its thickeningcapacity, it also improvestexture, a property that makesit very useful in creatingsauces.

Irish moss(Chondrus crispus)

A small, red seaweed, alsoknown as carrageen, thatforms extensive, densecolonies on rocks in the lowtide zone and the first fewmeters of the infralittoral zonein areas of the Atlanticexposed to wave activity.• Properties: With itspronounced crustacean flavor,this species is one of thosewhich has a long-knownhistory as a foodstuff forhumans. Thick andcartilaginous, it is a source ofsubstances used by the foodindustry for making thickenersand gelling agents. It is high inproteins, calcium, magnesium,sterols, vitamin A andantibacterial substances.• In cooking: It is used mostlyin desserts as a thickener andstabilizer, though once boiled itcan also be used to preparedelicious soups, vegetablepurées, stews and legumedishes.

Nori(Porphyra purpurea)

This blade seaweed is verydelicate in texture and red orviolet in color with a brightmetallic sheen. It can be foundon the first coastal rocksadjacent to the extensive,clean beaches on the openAtlantic, where the waters arecold, nutrient-rich andturbulent.• Properties: Thin andcartilaginous with a strongmarine flavor, this seaweed isnotable for its high proteincontent which can sometimesbe 40%. It is also rich inphosphorus, iron, vitamins A, Band C and niacin.• In cooking: Although theblade is very thin it is also quitetough, so it needs to be boiled,baked or fried. Whenblanched, it makes a visuallyattractive, flavorful andnutritious addition to fish andseafood soups and a goodingredient for rice, pasta andau gratin dishes, omelettes,vegetable purées, croquettes,pies and jams. If boiled it isfrequently used for wrappingrice with raw or marinated fish.Baked or dried and thenflaked, it makes a good apéritif,and when ground up, it’s aseasoning.

Wakame(Undaria pinnatifida)

This originally Asian brownseaweed has becomenaturalized in the waters ofGalicia where it grows onshallow rocks battered bywaves. This is one of thespecies most widely used forfood.• Properties: With its oyster-like flavor and delicate, slightlycrunchy texture, this seaweedis very pleasant to eat.Because of its high glutamicacid content, it works as apowerful flavor enhancer onthe foods with which it iscombined. It is also rich inproteins, calcium, magnesium,potassium, phosphorus, iron,vitamin B and niacin.• In cooking: This is excellenteaten raw and, with dressing,is delicious in a salad. Whenboiled or sautéed it becomessmooth-textured and turns alovely dark green color,suggestive of spinach, forwhich it can serve as asubstitute in many recipes. Itcan also be used as a garnishor layer for seafood, fish andmeat dishes, or it can beadded to cooking water. It isalso a useful ingredient insoups, rice dishes, legume-based stews, pizzas, lasagna,cannelloni, croquettes, piesand bread. Its own flavor isaccentuated by baking, afterwhich it makes a deliciousapéritif or, ground up, it’s acondiment.

A G R O W I N G G A S T R O N O M I C R E S O U R C E

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One recent result of theresearch project in whichPorto-Muiños is currentlyengaged in conjunction withthe University of La Coruña isthat eight new species havebeen made available to hautecuisine. Meanwhile, researchcontinues regarding theirproperties and combinationsto be applied in homecooking. The new specieswill join the ranks of theseven already available in theshops, whose organolepticproperties and nutritional andgastronomic attributes are nolonger a mystery.

Sea spaghetti(Himanthalia elongata)

A beautiful and distinctiveAtlantic seaweed with strap-like fronds that growsabundantly on tide-washedrocks along clean, wave-battered coasts.• Properties: Its fleshy frondshave a delicate sea flavor, verysimilar to clams and cockles. Itis particularly notable for itshigh content of vitamin C andassimilable iron.• In cooking: As it comes ordressed with young garlic. Itcombines very well with ricedishes, pasta and legumes,and is also useful as a garnishfor fish and for making soups,fritters, scrambled egg dishes,croquettes, pies, canapés, etc.

Kombu(Laminaria ochroleuca)

A brown seaweed that growson clean coasts battered bythe Atlantic, where it formsunderwater forests. Its palmateblade, divided into severalribbons, grows from a long,thick stem firmlyattached to the rocks.• Properties: Its ribbons havea strongly iodized, slightlysmoky sea flavor. It isexceptionally abundant incalcium, magnesium,potassium, phosphorus, iodineand vitamins B and C.• In cooking: Because of itsglutamic acid content, itenhances the flavors of thefoods with which it is cooked,and is also a very effectivethickener because it contains agreat deal of soluble fiber,which is particularly useful formaking sauces. It can also beused as a garnish or a layer inmeat and fish dishes, forwrapping rice, fish and meat,and it can be incorporated intostews, soups, rice dishes,croquettes and hamburgers.When lightly baked and groundup, it makes a marvelousseasoning.

Sea lettuce(Ulva rigida)

This blade seaweed adheres tothe rocks by means of a littledisk, and grows in well-lit,nutrient-rich waters. It is smalland bright green in color.• Properties: Thin andcartilaginous, it has a delicatetexture when fresh and a flavorsuggestive of crustaceanseafood. It is very high inprotein and also rich incalcium, magnesium,potassium, vitamin C andniacin.• In cooking: It can bedressed in a salad, baked orfried, and makes a goodingredient for sauces, soups,savory purées, legume dishes,croquettes and pies. Toenhance its flavor, it can belightly baked in the oven andthen used to wrap up rice withraw or marinated fish.

Sugar kombu(Laminaria saccharina)

A cold-water species thatforms lovely underwatermeadows on sandy coastswhere the waters are cleanand currents are strong.• Properties: Fleshy andslightly crunchy, this is verypleasant to chew and has acharacteristic sweetish, mild,marine flavor. It is rich incalcium, magnesium,potassium, phosphorus, iodineand vitamins B and C.• In cooking: Au naturel, cutinto thin strips, this can serveas a good base for a salad.When added to legume-basedstews, it enhances flavors andreduces cooking times.Because of its thickeningcapacity, it also improvestexture, a property that makesit very useful in creatingsauces.

Irish moss(Chondrus crispus)

A small, red seaweed, alsoknown as carrageen, thatforms extensive, densecolonies on rocks in the lowtide zone and the first fewmeters of the infralittoral zonein areas of the Atlanticexposed to wave activity.• Properties: With itspronounced crustacean flavor,this species is one of thosewhich has a long-knownhistory as a foodstuff forhumans. Thick andcartilaginous, it is a source ofsubstances used by the foodindustry for making thickenersand gelling agents. It is high inproteins, calcium, magnesium,sterols, vitamin A andantibacterial substances.• In cooking: It is used mostlyin desserts as a thickener andstabilizer, though once boiled itcan also be used to preparedelicious soups, vegetablepurées, stews and legumedishes.

Nori(Porphyra purpurea)

This blade seaweed is verydelicate in texture and red orviolet in color with a brightmetallic sheen. It can be foundon the first coastal rocksadjacent to the extensive,clean beaches on the openAtlantic, where the waters arecold, nutrient-rich andturbulent.• Properties: Thin andcartilaginous with a strongmarine flavor, this seaweed isnotable for its high proteincontent which can sometimesbe 40%. It is also rich inphosphorus, iron, vitamins A, Band C and niacin.• In cooking: Although theblade is very thin it is also quitetough, so it needs to be boiled,baked or fried. Whenblanched, it makes a visuallyattractive, flavorful andnutritious addition to fish andseafood soups and a goodingredient for rice, pasta andau gratin dishes, omelettes,vegetable purées, croquettes,pies and jams. If boiled it isfrequently used for wrappingrice with raw or marinated fish.Baked or dried and thenflaked, it makes a good apéritif,and when ground up, it’s aseasoning.

Wakame(Undaria pinnatifida)

This originally Asian brownseaweed has becomenaturalized in the waters ofGalicia where it grows onshallow rocks battered bywaves. This is one of thespecies most widely used forfood.• Properties: With its oyster-like flavor and delicate, slightlycrunchy texture, this seaweedis very pleasant to eat.Because of its high glutamicacid content, it works as apowerful flavor enhancer onthe foods with which it iscombined. It is also rich inproteins, calcium, magnesium,potassium, phosphorus, iron,vitamin B and niacin.• In cooking: This is excellenteaten raw and, with dressing,is delicious in a salad. Whenboiled or sautéed it becomessmooth-textured and turns alovely dark green color,suggestive of spinach, forwhich it can serve as asubstitute in many recipes. Itcan also be used as a garnishor layer for seafood, fish andmeat dishes, or it can beadded to cooking water. It isalso a useful ingredient insoups, rice dishes, legume-based stews, pizzas, lasagna,cannelloni, croquettes, piesand bread. Its own flavor isaccentuated by baking, afterwhich it makes a deliciousapéritif or, ground up, it’s acondiment.

A G R O W I N G G A S T R O N O M I C R E S O U R C E

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make a show of dishes cooked withPorto-Muiños seaweeds on theirmenus.In Spain and beyond, Antonio canboast (though he doesn’t) that hisseaweeds are eaten at the restaurantLa Pergola (3 Michelin stars), at theCavalieri Hilton in Rome and theCracco Peck (2 Michelin stars) inMilan, thanks to the culinaryinventiveness of Heinz Beck andCarlo Cracco. “Heston Blumenthal ofthe Fat Duck in Bray, Berkshire, insoutheast England (3 Michelin stars)has shown a particular interest inseaweed flours for their potential innewly invented dishes,” says Rosa.This vote of confidence from theculinary fraternity, combined withplacement in leading specialistchains in Italy, France, Greece,Germany and the UK, is reflected inan export quota of 15%. “Lookingahead, the US is our next challenge.We hope to place seaweeds ingourmet shops and to liberate themfrom the limitations imposed by thehealth food store niche,” she declaresin a determined tone.Night has fallen, so we get into thecar and head for Santiago deCompostela, where a concreteexpression of this action-packed dayawaits us. Marcelo Tejedor is themaster of ceremonies: he has put hisrestaurant, Casa Marcelo (1 Michelinstar and situated barely 100 m (328ft) away from the picturesque Plazadel Obradoiro), at our disposal. Wesuccumb to the delightful dishes heprepared, some of themexperimental and “made withseaweeds we brought him this very

morning,” explains Antonio, andothers more familiar, though all ofthem are amazing. He talks usthrough each dish and watches forour reactions, “… EspeciallyAntonio’s, as he considers him to bean expert and sets great store by hisopinion,” Rosa explains for mybenefit. This comes as no surprise, asMarcelo describes Antonio as“Galicia’s seaweed guru”. Afterdinner he joins us at our table andwe exchange impressions. By the endof the evening, I find myself coming

to the same conclusion that I haveheard expressed several times in thecourse of the day: “Seaweeds have avery distinct personality and youhave to learn how to eat them; theycontribute new flavors that have tobe introduced into dishes with asubtle hand.”

Almudena Muyo, who has over 12years of journalistic experience coveringinternational trade, is currentlyeditorial co-coordinator of SpainGourmetour.

PORTO-MUIÑOS

BUSINESSWATCH

Date of foundation: 1998

Activity: Harvesting and selling seaweed on the Galician coast in thenorthwest of the Iberian Peninsula, and other products of the sea such asmonkfish liver and sea urchin caviar.

Workforce: 6 employees

Turnover for 2006: 806,000 euros

Export quota: 15%

Headquarters: Santa María de Vigo15659 Cambre – A CoruñaSpain

Tel: (+34) 981 671 224

Fax: (+34) 981 671 547

www.portomuinos.com

muinos@telefonica.net

P O R T O – M U I Ñ O S

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Kit Cream debutaen EuropaHace poco más de un año, EstebanBartolomé y Francisco García, sociosfundadores de Kit Cream, ultimaban sulista definitiva de proveedores dematerias primas ecológicas. Hoy sushelados orgánicos, pioneros en España,se encuentran ya en la cadena desupermercados franceses de productosbiológicos y ecológicos Les NouveauxRobinson y, en breve, también estarándisponibles en tiendas especializadas dePortugal y Alemania.“Aunque comenzamos como unaempresa de helados artesanos, siemprequisimos entrar en el mercadoecológico”. Así, superadas las trabasiniciales para conseguir una carteranutrida de proveedores españoles deeste género –“trabajar en la red deagricultura ecológica es siempre máscomplicado porque tratas con empresasdiminutas”–, se pusieron manos a laobra para confeccionar un inéditocatálogo de sabores. Aceite de olivaPedro Ximénez o turrón de Jijona sonel botón de muestra de un listado quesupera las cuarenta entradas. Encualquier caso, si el cliente noencuentra lo que busca, “nosotros nosadaptamos a sus preferencias” –asegurasatisfecho Esteban Bartolomé–. Como si

de un traje a medida se tratara, KitCream ha diseñado helados exclusivosmano a mano con varios restaurantes yhasta con cinco almazaras españolas.Respaldados por la norma europea2092/91 que regula la fabricación ycomercialización de estos productos, loshelados ecológicos, que se comercializanbajo la marca Bio Cream, presumen desu exquisito y continuo control detrazabilidad. “Nuestro estricto sistemavigila todo el proceso para garantizar unalimento libre de transgénicos,pesticidas, herbicidas y otros elementosquímicos”, subraya Bartolomé. Pero elmayor orgullo de esta empresa novelreside en el sabor de sus helados. “Si envez de añadir aromatizantes y colorantesde fresa, utilizas únicamente fresas…¡imagínate el resultado final!”.Además de su filosofía ecológica –que seextenderá próximamente a helados paraveganos y celíacos–, Kit Cream practicalos enunciados esenciales de laResponsabilidad Social de la Empresa, ycolabora con varias ONG locales. Dehecho, parte de su personal proviene dePlataforma sin Barreras, una asociaciónpara la integración de personasdiscapacitadas. “Si una empresa no esconsciente del papel que juega en lasociedad, de nada sirve fabricar el mejorhelado del mundo”, concluye.

Año de fundación: 2004Actividad: Producción ycomercialización de heladosPlantilla: 9 empleadosFacturación 2006: 900.000 euroswww.biocream.es

Monva se cuelaen BrasilCuando en ladécada de losochenta FranciscoJosé Montabes ampliócon 50.000 olivos su finca enSierra Mágina, pocosapostaban por su negocio. Noobstante, la historia acabó pordar la razón a este visionario delcampo andaluz, y hoy laprovincia de Jaén presume deser el epicentro de laproducción mundial de aceitede oliva. Con un balanceque roza los800.000 litros alaño, Monva siguesiendo una empresafamiliar. “Nuestradimensión, sinembargo, nunca fueobstáculo para vender en otros países–apunta Luis Montabes, hijo delfundador y director de exportación–. Através de Comova, nuestra sociedad de

En marchaCELIA HERNANDO

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European launchfor KitCreamA little more than a year ago, EstebanBartolomé and Francisco García,founding partners of KitCream, werefinalizing their definitive list ofsuppliers of organic basic ingredients.Now their organic ice creams–trailblazers in Spain–are already on salein France’s Les Nouveaux Robinson“green” supermarket chain and willsoon be available in specialist shops inPortugal and Germany.“Although we started off as an artisanice cream company, we always had oursights set on the organic market.”Having surmounted the initialdifficulties entailed in assembling abroad portfolio of suitably greenSpanish suppliers–“working within theecological farming network is alwaysmore complicated because you aredealing with tiny companies”–they setabout creating a repertoire ofunconventional flavors. Olive oil, PedroXiménez and Jijona-style turrón are asmall selection from a list of over 40.Even so, if a client doesn’t find what he’safter, “we adapt to specialrequirements,” declares Bartoloméhappily. Indeed, KitCream has designedexclusive “made-to-measure” ice creamsworking together with various

restaurants and even five Spanish oliveoil mills.Production and sales of organic foodstuffsmust comply with EC Council Regulation2092/91, and the makers of these organicice creams (sold under the Biocreambrand) are proud of their sophisticated,continuous system of traceabilitymonitoring. “Our rigorous system watchesover the whole process so we canguarantee that our product is free fromtransgenics, pesticides, herbicides andother chemical elements,” declaresBartolomé. But what this young companyis most proud of is the flavor of its icecreams. “If you simply use strawberriesinstead of adding strawberry flavoringagents and colorants, the end resultspeaks for itself!”In addition to its green principles,which are soon to be extended toproducing ice creams for vegans andceliac sufferers, KitCream observes theessential tenets of Corporate SocialResponsibility and works inconjunction with several local NGOs.Some of its staff come from Plataformasin barreras (Platform without barriers),a scheme for integrating disabled peopleinto the workplace. “Making the best icecream in the world is all very well andgood, but what’s the point unless yourcompany is social responsible?” heconcludes.

Date of foundation: 2004Activity: Ice cream production and salesWorkforce: 9 employeesTurnover for 2006: 900,000 euroswww.biocream.es

Monva opens shopin BrazilWhen Francisco José Montabes added50,000 olive trees tohis Sierra Máginaestate in the 1980s,few were convincedthat it was a viable businessventure. Yet events haveproved this visionary of ruralAndalusia right, and today theJaén province can justifiablyclaim to be the epicenter ofworld olive oil production.Even producing around800,000 l (211,337 gal) ayear, Monva is still a family-run company.“Despite that, oursize has never beenan obstacle to sellingabroad,” declares thefounder’s son andexport director Luis.“Working through our distributioncompany, Comova, we started in Japanand now have a presence in Korea, theUS, Canada, Mexico, Switzerland, China

On the MoveTEXT

CELIA HERNANDO

TRANSLATIONHAWYS PRITCHARD

ILLUSTRATIONJAVIER VÁZQUEZ

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ambos se hubiese gestado en el campo dela publicidad. “Tomamos unos cuantoscursos y en enero de 2006 inauguramosnuestra factoría de chocolate en Madrid”.Dos años después, los originales diseñosde estos nuevos maestros chocolateros sehan hecho un lugar en los estantes de lacadena alemana Metro, y en losprestigiosos almacenes Fortnum &Manson británicos. Asimismo, acabande cerrar un acuerdo de distribuciónen Portugal con Porto Palacio HotelCongress and Spa, del grupo empresarialSolinca, y con el Spa Well Domus(ambos en Oporto).El secreto del éxito, reconocen, “es unamezcla de producto de calidad y envaseimpactante”. De hecho, sus chocolates ybombones se elaboran en su totalidadcon materias primas ecológicas. “Desdeel cacao, a la miel, pasando por el romeroo la canela de nuestras trufas, todo es100% ecológico”, enfatizan. En cualquiercaso, el diseño de los estuches nodesmerece el contenido. Presentan susláminas de chocolate envueltas en papelescon dibujos cuidados y coloridos, y sustrufas especiadas en cilíndricas latas demetal. Cada una de estas creaciones esmarca de la casa y gracias a ellas ya hanconseguido traerse a España variospremios internacionales. “Recibimos elpremio Great Taste Awards en la últimaedición de la feria Speciality Foods deLondres y nuestro chocolate de trufa deromero ha sido premiado en la feriaalemana Anuga”. Los primeros pasos deuna expansión internacional que no hahecho másque empezar.

Año de fundación: 2006Actividad: Productores de chocolateecológicoPlantilla: 4 empleadosCuota de exportación: 55%Facturación 2006: 45.000 euroswww.chocolateorganiko.es

Soria Natural se implantaen MarruecosEl paraje impoluto que rodea la localidadde Soria, ubicada en el centro-norte de lapenínsula Ibérica, inspiró la gestación deSoria Natural, una empresa dedicada a laproducción y comercialización dealimentos ecológicos y de medicinanatural. Después de veinticinco años, estacompañía continúa fiel a su filosofía inicialmientras suma a su cartera un nuevomercado: Marruecos, donde han firmadoun contrato de distribución en exclusiva,en el que se contempla el desarrollo de sufranquicia Soria Natural Golden Class enCasablanca, Rabat y Marrakech, en unaprimera fase. En estos establecimientos nosólo se venderán sus propios productos,sino que también se ofrecerán tratamientosavanzados de estética y belleza.“Marruecos dispone de buena estabilidadmacroeconómica, y las inversiones eninfraestructuras permiten ahora una buenadistribución logística de nuestrosproductos –señala Tito Hermasanz,director de exportación– Además,mediante este acuerdo podremos colocaren el mercado marroquí la mayoría denuestros artículos”. De hecho, SoriaNatural agrupa bajo el mismo nombrevarias divisiones: Soria Natural (hierbasmedicinales), Homeosor (medicamentos) yAecosor (alimentos ecológicos).Las más de 180 hectáreas / 444,6 acres decultivo ecológico de Soria Natural sesitúan a 1.200 metros / 3.600 ft sobre elnivel del mar, en una de las regiones másrurales de España, y por ello más limpias.“El clima continental riguroso de esta zonafuerza en los vegetales ciclos muy cortos,lo que favorece la concentración deprincipios activos de las plantas”, explica.Un laboratorio de I+D contiguo a lasexplotaciones elabora los variadosproductos que hoy exportan a herbolarios,farmacias y establecimientos ecológicos demás de veinte países. México, Bélgica,

Alemania, Portugal y EE UU son susprincipales mercados.

Año de fundación: 1982Actividad: Cultivo, producción ycomercialización de productos demedicina natural y ecológicosPlantilla: 350 empleadosCuota de exportación: 15%Facturación 2006: 35 millones de euroswww.sorianatural.es

Aecovi-Jerezinternacionaliza su arropePocos productos pueden presumir de unahistoria tan dilatada como el arrope. Dehecho, ya en la Roma Clásica eracostumbre cocinar durante días –conpaciencia y a fuego lento– el zumo de lauva, obteniendo así un poderoso ynatural conservante para las frutas.Aunque esta reducción de mostosobrevivió a lo largo de los siglos endiversas culturas mediterráneas, su rastrose debilita según nos acercamos a lostiempos modernos. Tras varios años deinvestigación, la cooperativa andaluzaAecovi-Jerez lo ha rescatado del baúl delos recuerdos, y ahora quiere que elmundo entero conozca sus deliciosaspropiedades. “Se trata de un productoextraño y exótico en muchos países, peroesto se traduce en una ventajacompetitiva ya que ahora se valora loautóctono, lo local”, asegura JuanGonzález, director de ventas. Diferentesrecetarios acompañarán a estas atractivasbotellas de un cuarto de litro parademostrar al consumidor internacional laenorme versatilidad del arrope, una salsaeminentemente dulce con notas amargasy ácidas. “Para su elaboración utilizamoslas variedades tradicionales del Marco deJerez: Palomino, Moscatel y PedroXiménez, todas ellas uvas concertificación de Producción Integrada

–destaca la enóloga Dolores Palencia–. Loproducimos a una escala que nos permitecalificarlo como artesanal”, añade.Por el momento, el arrope de Aecovi-Jerez, comercializado bajo la marcaFerianes, ya se puede degustar en Bélgica:“Lo estamos comercializando por el canalHoreca y en tiendas gourmet. Nosdirigimos a un cliente sofisticado, culto,con un nivel de renta alto, y deseoso deexperimentar en su cocina con nuevosingredientes”. Además, también lo hapromocionado en EE UU, en la feriaSpanish Wine Cellar & Pastry 2007 ypróximamente lo hará en la Fancy FoodShow de Nueva York.Junto con el arrope Ferianes, lacooperativa Aecovi-Jerez –que agrupaa más de 1.000 pequeños viticultoresy suma el 20% de la superficie total deviñedo de la provincia de Cádiz–comercializa los distintos tipos de vinosde la DO de Jerez (Fino, Amontillado,Oloroso, Cream, Moscatel y PedroXiménez), Manzanilla de la DO Sanlúcarde Barrameda y vinagre de Jerez.

Año de fundación: 1989Actividad: Proyectos I+D, apoyo técnicoal viticultor y comercializaciónPlantilla: 11 empleadosFacturación 2006: 3 millones de euroswww.aecovi-jerez.com

Chocolate Orgániko enedición de lujo“Un chocolate ecológico y chic”. CarlosOrtiz y Eugenia Pozo, socios fundadoresde Chocolate Orgániko, rastrearon loslineales de numerosos establecimientosbuscando el producto que casase con estadefinición. Pero no lo encontraron. “Seabrió entonces ante nuestros ojos unaoportunidad de negocio inmejorable queno quisimos desaprovechar”, comentaCarlos. Poco importó que la carrera de

Más noticiaswww.spaingourmetour.com

distribución, empezamos en Japón y yaestamos presentes en Corea, EE UU,Canadá, México, Suiza, China y, másrecientemente, en Brasil donde suposicionamiento en tiendasespecializadas esperamos quele abra las puertas a otras víasde comercialización”.Fieles a su filosofía originaria, Monvase codea con los mayores productoresmundiales de aceite de oliva virgen extrade cosecha propia. “Somos lo opuestoa lo que mi padre llamaba traficantesde aceites, o lo que es lo mismo,las grandes comercializadoras quecompran aceituna fuera”, enfatiza LuisMontabes. Así, toda la producciónprocede obligatoriamente de su fincaen el cortijo Virgen de los Milagros,enclavada en el Parque Natural de SierraMágina, del que la denominación deorigen toma el nombre. “Se trata de unentorno privilegiado que concede a lavariedad de aceituna picual, granprotagonista de la DO, las condicionesde altura óptimas”.Su aceite de oliva, 100% virgen extra,se encuentra en el mercado bajo tresmarcas diferentes: Montabes,Vallemágina y Dóminus –este último esun producto para gourmets convencidos,ya que con esta etiqueta solo envasan elaceite que gana el concurso Alcuza, elmás prestigioso de la DO Sierra Mágina–.“Conseguimosel primer premio en la última edición,pero también en 2000 y 2006 –subraya–.Teniendo en cuenta el nivel de lacompetencia, sobran las palabras”.

Año de fundación: 1972Actividad: Elaboración de aceite de olivavirgen extra variedad picual con DOSierra MáginaPlantilla: 35 empleadosCuota de exportación: 50%Facturación 2006: 3.500.000 euroswww.monva.es / www.comova.es

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ON THE MOVE

BUSINESSWATCH

gap in the market and just had to fill it,”explains Carlos. The fact that theirprofessional experience had hitherto beenin the advertising world did not stand intheir way. “We took a few courses andthen opened our chocolate factory inMadrid in January 2006.” Two years later,these new master chocolatiers'unconventional designs are on sale atMetro shops in Germany and London’sprestigious Fortnum and Mason.Meanwhile, they have just sealed adistribution deal in Portugal with theSolinca Group’s Porto Palace HotelCongress and Spa, and with the Spa WellDomus (both in Porto).They believe that the secret of theirsuccess is “the combination of a qualityproduct and eye-catching packaging.”Their chocolates and sweets are madeentirely of organic raw materials. “Thecacao, honey, even the rosemary andcinnamon we use in our truffles–they’reall organic,” they insist. And thepackaging design is up to standard withthe contents: chocolate “laminae” arepacked in vivid, slickly-designedwrappers, while their spiced truffles arepresented in cylindrical tins. Each ofthese own-label creations has won variousinternational awards for Spain. “We wonthe Great Taste Awards prize at the mostrecent edition of Specialty Foods Fair inLondon and our rosemary chocolatetruffle won an award at the German fairAnuga.” Their international career looksvery promising indeed.

Date of foundation: 2006Activity: Organic chocolate productionWorkforce: 4 employeesTurnover for 2006: 45,000 eurosExport quota: 55%www.chocolateorganiko.es

Morocco welcomesSoria NaturalThe pristine environment surrounding thetown of Soria, located in the centralnorthern part of the Iberian Peninsula,provided the inspiration for setting upSoria Natural, a company devoted toproducing and selling organic foodstuffsand natural medicines. Twenty-five yearson, the company, which still upholds itsoriginal principles, has added a newmarket to its portfolio: Morocco. It hassigned an exclusive distribution contractto establish its Soria Natural Golden Classfranchise scheme there, starting withCasablanca, Rabat and Marrakech. As wellas selling Soria Natural products, theestablishments involved will also offersophisticated beauty treatments.“Morocco has a stable macroeconomy andhas invested in its infrastructures, so thatthe logistics of distributing our productsthere are now perfectly feasible,” explainsthe export director Tito Hermasanz.“What’s more, the terms of this agreementenable us to place the majority of ourproducts in the Moroccan market.” Thename Soria Natural encompasses differentdivisions: Soria Natural (medicinal herbs),Homeosor (medicines) and Aecosor(organic foodstuffs).Soria Natural owns over 180 ha (444.8acres) of organic crop growing landsituated 1,200 m (3,936 ft) above sealevel, in one of the most rural, andtherefore cleanest, regions of Spain. “Thisarea’s extreme continental climate imposesa very short cycle on vegetable crops,” heexplains, “and this enhances concentrationof the plants’ active ingredients.” An R&Dlaboratory adjacent to the growing areaprocesses the varied range of products thatare currently exported to herbalists,pharmacies and organic establishments inover 20 countries. Mexico, Belgium,

Germany, Portugal and the US are SoriaNatural’s principal markets.

Date of foundation: 1982Activity: Growing, producing and sellingorganic and natural medicinal productsWorkforce: 350 employeesTurnover for 2006: 35 million eurosExport quota: 15%www.sorianatural.es

ON THE MOVE

BUSINESSWATCH

We know that in Ancient Rome it wascustomary for grape juice to be subjectedto a long, slow cooking process lasting fordays to obtain a syrup that served as apowerful natural preservative for fruit.Although this type of reduced must syrupsurvived down the centuries in variousMediterranean cultures, its presenceseems to have become more tenuous withthe approach of modern times. Afterseveral years of research, the Andalusiancooperative Aecovi-Jerez has now rescuedit from oblivion and wants the wholeworld to know how delicious it is. “It’sperceived as a strange, exotic product inmany countries, but that translates into acompetitive advantage these days whensuch value is attached to authenticity andspecific provenance,” explains the salesdirector, Juan González. Attractivequarter liter bottles (0.07 gal) are to beaccompanied by a range of recipe booksto show international consumers theenormous versatility of arrope, anessentially sweet sauce with a zing ofbitterness and acidity. “We make it fromthe grape varieties traditional to thesherry region: Palomino, Muscatel and

Pedro Ximénez, all with IntegratedProduction certification,” stressesoenologist Dolores Palencia, going on toadd: “And the scale on which we produceit allows us to categorize it as artisan.”Aecovi-Jerez arrope, which is sold underthe Ferianes label, can currently besampled in Belgium. “We’re selling itthrough the hospitality trade channel andin delicatessens. Our target customer issophisticated, cultured, has a highdisposable income and enjoysexperimenting with new ingredientswhen cooking.” Aecovi-Jerez capitalizedon the Spanish Wine Cellar & Pastry2007 Fair to promote it in the US andwill soon be doing so again at the NewYork Fancy Food Show.Along with Ferianes arrope, the Aecovi-Jerez cooperative–to which over 1,000small grape-growers belong, accountingfor 20% of the total area under vine inthe Cádiz province–also sells the variouswine types covered by DO Jerez (fino,amontillado, oloroso, cream muscatel andPedro Ximénez), DO Sanlúcar deBarrameda manzanilla and sherryvinegar.

Date of foundation: 1989Activity: R&D projects, technicalsupport for growers, salesWorkforce: 11 employeesTurnover for 2006: 3 million euroswww.aecovi-jerez.com

De luxe Orgánikochocolate“Chic organic chocolate.” Carlos Ortizand Eugenia Pozo, founding partners ofChocolate Orgániko, scanned the shelvesof many shops for a product matchingthis description, without success. “Werealized that we’d spotted a very attractive

More newswww.spaingourmetour.com

and, more recently, Brazil, where wehope our oil’s market position inspecialist shops will open othercommercial doors for us.”Monva, which still upholds its foundingprinciples, is ranked alongside theworld’s top producers of estate-producedextra virgin olive oil. “We’re the oppositeof what my father used to call ‘oiltraffickers’, meaning those big dealerswho buy their olives elsewhere,” statesLuis. The company’s entire productionoriginates exclusively from its groves onthe Virgen de los Milagros estate, deep inthe Sierra Mágina Natural Park fromwhich the designation of origin takes itsname. “It’s a privileged environment thatprovides the perfect altitude conditionsfor growing Picual olives, the DO’spredominant variety.”This company’s olive oil, which is 100%extra virgin, is sold under three differentbrand names: Montabes, Vallemáginaand Dóminus. Dóminus is an oil forcommitted gourmets: the label is usedonly for oil that wins DO Sierra Mágina’smost prestigious award, the Alcuza Prize.“We came in first in the last competition,but we’ve also won it before in 2000 and2006,” Luis informs us proudly. “Giventhe standard of competition, need I saymore?”

Date of foundation: 1972Activity: Processing DO Sierra Máginaextra virgin olive oil of the Picual varietyWorkforce: 35 employeesTurnover for 2006: 3.5 million eurosExport quota: 50%www.monva.es / www.comova.es

Aecovi-Jerez grape syrupgoes internationalThere can be few products with such along history as arrope (grape must syrup).

11-EN MARCHA IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 21:03 P gina 134 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

ambos se hubiese gestado en el campo dela publicidad. “Tomamos unos cuantoscursos y en enero de 2006 inauguramosnuestra factoría de chocolate en Madrid”.Dos años después, los originales diseñosde estos nuevos maestros chocolateros sehan hecho un lugar en los estantes de lacadena alemana Metro, y en losprestigiosos almacenes Fortnum &Manson británicos. Asimismo, acabande cerrar un acuerdo de distribuciónen Portugal con Porto Palacio HotelCongress and Spa, del grupo empresarialSolinca, y con el Spa Well Domus(ambos en Oporto).El secreto del éxito, reconocen, “es unamezcla de producto de calidad y envaseimpactante”. De hecho, sus chocolates ybombones se elaboran en su totalidadcon materias primas ecológicas. “Desdeel cacao, a la miel, pasando por el romeroo la canela de nuestras trufas, todo es100% ecológico”, enfatizan. En cualquiercaso, el diseño de los estuches nodesmerece el contenido. Presentan susláminas de chocolate envueltas en papelescon dibujos cuidados y coloridos, y sustrufas especiadas en cilíndricas latas demetal. Cada una de estas creaciones esmarca de la casa y gracias a ellas ya hanconseguido traerse a España variospremios internacionales. “Recibimos elpremio Great Taste Awards en la últimaedición de la feria Speciality Foods deLondres y nuestro chocolate de trufa deromero ha sido premiado en la feriaalemana Anuga”. Los primeros pasos deuna expansión internacional que no hahecho másque empezar.

Año de fundación: 2006Actividad: Productores de chocolateecológicoPlantilla: 4 empleadosCuota de exportación: 55%Facturación 2006: 45.000 euroswww.chocolateorganiko.es

Soria Natural se implantaen MarruecosEl paraje impoluto que rodea la localidadde Soria, ubicada en el centro-norte de lapenínsula Ibérica, inspiró la gestación deSoria Natural, una empresa dedicada a laproducción y comercialización dealimentos ecológicos y de medicinanatural. Después de veinticinco años, estacompañía continúa fiel a su filosofía inicialmientras suma a su cartera un nuevomercado: Marruecos, donde han firmadoun contrato de distribución en exclusiva,en el que se contempla el desarrollo de sufranquicia Soria Natural Golden Class enCasablanca, Rabat y Marrakech, en unaprimera fase. En estos establecimientos nosólo se venderán sus propios productos,sino que también se ofrecerán tratamientosavanzados de estética y belleza.“Marruecos dispone de buena estabilidadmacroeconómica, y las inversiones eninfraestructuras permiten ahora una buenadistribución logística de nuestrosproductos –señala Tito Hermasanz,director de exportación– Además,mediante este acuerdo podremos colocaren el mercado marroquí la mayoría denuestros artículos”. De hecho, SoriaNatural agrupa bajo el mismo nombrevarias divisiones: Soria Natural (hierbasmedicinales), Homeosor (medicamentos) yAecosor (alimentos ecológicos).Las más de 180 hectáreas / 444,6 acres decultivo ecológico de Soria Natural sesitúan a 1.200 metros / 3.600 ft sobre elnivel del mar, en una de las regiones másrurales de España, y por ello más limpias.“El clima continental riguroso de esta zonafuerza en los vegetales ciclos muy cortos,lo que favorece la concentración deprincipios activos de las plantas”, explica.Un laboratorio de I+D contiguo a lasexplotaciones elabora los variadosproductos que hoy exportan a herbolarios,farmacias y establecimientos ecológicos demás de veinte países. México, Bélgica,

Alemania, Portugal y EE UU son susprincipales mercados.

Año de fundación: 1982Actividad: Cultivo, producción ycomercialización de productos demedicina natural y ecológicosPlantilla: 350 empleadosCuota de exportación: 15%Facturación 2006: 35 millones de euroswww.sorianatural.es

Aecovi-Jerezinternacionaliza su arropePocos productos pueden presumir de unahistoria tan dilatada como el arrope. Dehecho, ya en la Roma Clásica eracostumbre cocinar durante días –conpaciencia y a fuego lento– el zumo de lauva, obteniendo así un poderoso ynatural conservante para las frutas.Aunque esta reducción de mostosobrevivió a lo largo de los siglos endiversas culturas mediterráneas, su rastrose debilita según nos acercamos a lostiempos modernos. Tras varios años deinvestigación, la cooperativa andaluzaAecovi-Jerez lo ha rescatado del baúl delos recuerdos, y ahora quiere que elmundo entero conozca sus deliciosaspropiedades. “Se trata de un productoextraño y exótico en muchos países, peroesto se traduce en una ventajacompetitiva ya que ahora se valora loautóctono, lo local”, asegura JuanGonzález, director de ventas. Diferentesrecetarios acompañarán a estas atractivasbotellas de un cuarto de litro parademostrar al consumidor internacional laenorme versatilidad del arrope, una salsaeminentemente dulce con notas amargasy ácidas. “Para su elaboración utilizamoslas variedades tradicionales del Marco deJerez: Palomino, Moscatel y PedroXiménez, todas ellas uvas concertificación de Producción Integrada

–destaca la enóloga Dolores Palencia–. Loproducimos a una escala que nos permitecalificarlo como artesanal”, añade.Por el momento, el arrope de Aecovi-Jerez, comercializado bajo la marcaFerianes, ya se puede degustar en Bélgica:“Lo estamos comercializando por el canalHoreca y en tiendas gourmet. Nosdirigimos a un cliente sofisticado, culto,con un nivel de renta alto, y deseoso deexperimentar en su cocina con nuevosingredientes”. Además, también lo hapromocionado en EE UU, en la feriaSpanish Wine Cellar & Pastry 2007 ypróximamente lo hará en la Fancy FoodShow de Nueva York.Junto con el arrope Ferianes, lacooperativa Aecovi-Jerez –que agrupaa más de 1.000 pequeños viticultoresy suma el 20% de la superficie total deviñedo de la provincia de Cádiz–comercializa los distintos tipos de vinosde la DO de Jerez (Fino, Amontillado,Oloroso, Cream, Moscatel y PedroXiménez), Manzanilla de la DO Sanlúcarde Barrameda y vinagre de Jerez.

Año de fundación: 1989Actividad: Proyectos I+D, apoyo técnicoal viticultor y comercializaciónPlantilla: 11 empleadosFacturación 2006: 3 millones de euroswww.aecovi-jerez.com

Chocolate Orgániko enedición de lujo“Un chocolate ecológico y chic”. CarlosOrtiz y Eugenia Pozo, socios fundadoresde Chocolate Orgániko, rastrearon loslineales de numerosos establecimientosbuscando el producto que casase con estadefinición. Pero no lo encontraron. “Seabrió entonces ante nuestros ojos unaoportunidad de negocio inmejorable queno quisimos desaprovechar”, comentaCarlos. Poco importó que la carrera de

Más noticiaswww.spaingourmetour.com

distribución, empezamos en Japón y yaestamos presentes en Corea, EE UU,Canadá, México, Suiza, China y, másrecientemente, en Brasil donde suposicionamiento en tiendasespecializadas esperamos quele abra las puertas a otras víasde comercialización”.Fieles a su filosofía originaria, Monvase codea con los mayores productoresmundiales de aceite de oliva virgen extrade cosecha propia. “Somos lo opuestoa lo que mi padre llamaba traficantesde aceites, o lo que es lo mismo,las grandes comercializadoras quecompran aceituna fuera”, enfatiza LuisMontabes. Así, toda la producciónprocede obligatoriamente de su fincaen el cortijo Virgen de los Milagros,enclavada en el Parque Natural de SierraMágina, del que la denominación deorigen toma el nombre. “Se trata de unentorno privilegiado que concede a lavariedad de aceituna picual, granprotagonista de la DO, las condicionesde altura óptimas”.Su aceite de oliva, 100% virgen extra,se encuentra en el mercado bajo tresmarcas diferentes: Montabes,Vallemágina y Dóminus –este último esun producto para gourmets convencidos,ya que con esta etiqueta solo envasan elaceite que gana el concurso Alcuza, elmás prestigioso de la DO Sierra Mágina–.“Conseguimosel primer premio en la última edición,pero también en 2000 y 2006 –subraya–.Teniendo en cuenta el nivel de lacompetencia, sobran las palabras”.

Año de fundación: 1972Actividad: Elaboración de aceite de olivavirgen extra variedad picual con DOSierra MáginaPlantilla: 35 empleadosCuota de exportación: 50%Facturación 2006: 3.500.000 euroswww.monva.es / www.comova.es

EN MARCHA_AF.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 11:12 P gina 134

134 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 135

ON THE MOVE

BUSINESSWATCH

gap in the market and just had to fill it,”explains Carlos. The fact that theirprofessional experience had hitherto beenin the advertising world did not stand intheir way. “We took a few courses andthen opened our chocolate factory inMadrid in January 2006.” Two years later,these new master chocolatiers'unconventional designs are on sale atMetro shops in Germany and London’sprestigious Fortnum and Mason.Meanwhile, they have just sealed adistribution deal in Portugal with theSolinca Group’s Porto Palace HotelCongress and Spa, and with the Spa WellDomus (both in Porto).They believe that the secret of theirsuccess is “the combination of a qualityproduct and eye-catching packaging.”Their chocolates and sweets are madeentirely of organic raw materials. “Thecacao, honey, even the rosemary andcinnamon we use in our truffles–they’reall organic,” they insist. And thepackaging design is up to standard withthe contents: chocolate “laminae” arepacked in vivid, slickly-designedwrappers, while their spiced truffles arepresented in cylindrical tins. Each ofthese own-label creations has won variousinternational awards for Spain. “We wonthe Great Taste Awards prize at the mostrecent edition of Specialty Foods Fair inLondon and our rosemary chocolatetruffle won an award at the German fairAnuga.” Their international career looksvery promising indeed.

Date of foundation: 2006Activity: Organic chocolate productionWorkforce: 4 employeesTurnover for 2006: 45,000 eurosExport quota: 55%www.chocolateorganiko.es

Morocco welcomesSoria NaturalThe pristine environment surrounding thetown of Soria, located in the centralnorthern part of the Iberian Peninsula,provided the inspiration for setting upSoria Natural, a company devoted toproducing and selling organic foodstuffsand natural medicines. Twenty-five yearson, the company, which still upholds itsoriginal principles, has added a newmarket to its portfolio: Morocco. It hassigned an exclusive distribution contractto establish its Soria Natural Golden Classfranchise scheme there, starting withCasablanca, Rabat and Marrakech. As wellas selling Soria Natural products, theestablishments involved will also offersophisticated beauty treatments.“Morocco has a stable macroeconomy andhas invested in its infrastructures, so thatthe logistics of distributing our productsthere are now perfectly feasible,” explainsthe export director Tito Hermasanz.“What’s more, the terms of this agreementenable us to place the majority of ourproducts in the Moroccan market.” Thename Soria Natural encompasses differentdivisions: Soria Natural (medicinal herbs),Homeosor (medicines) and Aecosor(organic foodstuffs).Soria Natural owns over 180 ha (444.8acres) of organic crop growing landsituated 1,200 m (3,936 ft) above sealevel, in one of the most rural, andtherefore cleanest, regions of Spain. “Thisarea’s extreme continental climate imposesa very short cycle on vegetable crops,” heexplains, “and this enhances concentrationof the plants’ active ingredients.” An R&Dlaboratory adjacent to the growing areaprocesses the varied range of products thatare currently exported to herbalists,pharmacies and organic establishments inover 20 countries. Mexico, Belgium,

Germany, Portugal and the US are SoriaNatural’s principal markets.

Date of foundation: 1982Activity: Growing, producing and sellingorganic and natural medicinal productsWorkforce: 350 employeesTurnover for 2006: 35 million eurosExport quota: 15%www.sorianatural.es

ON THE MOVE

BUSINESSWATCH

We know that in Ancient Rome it wascustomary for grape juice to be subjectedto a long, slow cooking process lasting fordays to obtain a syrup that served as apowerful natural preservative for fruit.Although this type of reduced must syrupsurvived down the centuries in variousMediterranean cultures, its presenceseems to have become more tenuous withthe approach of modern times. Afterseveral years of research, the Andalusiancooperative Aecovi-Jerez has now rescuedit from oblivion and wants the wholeworld to know how delicious it is. “It’sperceived as a strange, exotic product inmany countries, but that translates into acompetitive advantage these days whensuch value is attached to authenticity andspecific provenance,” explains the salesdirector, Juan González. Attractivequarter liter bottles (0.07 gal) are to beaccompanied by a range of recipe booksto show international consumers theenormous versatility of arrope, anessentially sweet sauce with a zing ofbitterness and acidity. “We make it fromthe grape varieties traditional to thesherry region: Palomino, Muscatel and

Pedro Ximénez, all with IntegratedProduction certification,” stressesoenologist Dolores Palencia, going on toadd: “And the scale on which we produceit allows us to categorize it as artisan.”Aecovi-Jerez arrope, which is sold underthe Ferianes label, can currently besampled in Belgium. “We’re selling itthrough the hospitality trade channel andin delicatessens. Our target customer issophisticated, cultured, has a highdisposable income and enjoysexperimenting with new ingredientswhen cooking.” Aecovi-Jerez capitalizedon the Spanish Wine Cellar & Pastry2007 Fair to promote it in the US andwill soon be doing so again at the NewYork Fancy Food Show.Along with Ferianes arrope, the Aecovi-Jerez cooperative–to which over 1,000small grape-growers belong, accountingfor 20% of the total area under vine inthe Cádiz province–also sells the variouswine types covered by DO Jerez (fino,amontillado, oloroso, cream muscatel andPedro Ximénez), DO Sanlúcar deBarrameda manzanilla and sherryvinegar.

Date of foundation: 1989Activity: R&D projects, technicalsupport for growers, salesWorkforce: 11 employeesTurnover for 2006: 3 million euroswww.aecovi-jerez.com

De luxe Orgánikochocolate“Chic organic chocolate.” Carlos Ortizand Eugenia Pozo, founding partners ofChocolate Orgániko, scanned the shelvesof many shops for a product matchingthis description, without success. “Werealized that we’d spotted a very attractive

More newswww.spaingourmetour.com

and, more recently, Brazil, where wehope our oil’s market position inspecialist shops will open othercommercial doors for us.”Monva, which still upholds its foundingprinciples, is ranked alongside theworld’s top producers of estate-producedextra virgin olive oil. “We’re the oppositeof what my father used to call ‘oiltraffickers’, meaning those big dealerswho buy their olives elsewhere,” statesLuis. The company’s entire productionoriginates exclusively from its groves onthe Virgen de los Milagros estate, deep inthe Sierra Mágina Natural Park fromwhich the designation of origin takes itsname. “It’s a privileged environment thatprovides the perfect altitude conditionsfor growing Picual olives, the DO’spredominant variety.”This company’s olive oil, which is 100%extra virgin, is sold under three differentbrand names: Montabes, Vallemáginaand Dóminus. Dóminus is an oil forcommitted gourmets: the label is usedonly for oil that wins DO Sierra Mágina’smost prestigious award, the Alcuza Prize.“We came in first in the last competition,but we’ve also won it before in 2000 and2006,” Luis informs us proudly. “Giventhe standard of competition, need I saymore?”

Date of foundation: 1972Activity: Processing DO Sierra Máginaextra virgin olive oil of the Picual varietyWorkforce: 35 employeesTurnover for 2006: 3.5 million eurosExport quota: 50%www.monva.es / www.comova.es

Aecovi-Jerez grape syrupgoes internationalThere can be few products with such along history as arrope (grape must syrup).

11-EN MARCHA IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 21:03 P gina 134 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

ALMA ESPAÑOLA.qxd 15/11/07 11:56 Página 136

Calabria-born Sergio Volturo has lived in Spain since

1995. An expert in design, though not a designer, he

describes himself as a cultural advisor. After studying

philosophy in Milan, he worked in the marketing and

communications field for big Italian companies such

as ENI and Italcementi. He was then appointed director

of the Madrid branch of the Istituto Europeo di Design

(a private design school founded in Italy in 1966), a

job at which he remained for ten years. Later, he

opened La Casa Prestada, a restaurant, cultural hub

and bar all in one. He is currently head of Madrid’s

Matadero Design Center, a multidisciplinary space

devoted to art sponsored by the city council in

conjunction with other public and private bodies. In

parallel, Sergio also works for Orphanage Africa, an

NGO of which he is president of the Spanish delegation.

Sergio Volturo,Cultural Advisor

COM

MIT

TED

EpicureSpanish at Heart

12-ALMA ESPAN?OLA IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 14:51 P gina 136 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

ALMA ESPAÑOLA.qxd 15/11/07 11:56 Página 136

Calabria-born Sergio Volturo has lived in Spain since

1995. An expert in design, though not a designer, he

describes himself as a cultural advisor. After studying

philosophy in Milan, he worked in the marketing and

communications field for big Italian companies such

as ENI and Italcementi. He was then appointed director

of the Madrid branch of the Istituto Europeo di Design

(a private design school founded in Italy in 1966), a

job at which he remained for ten years. Later, he

opened La Casa Prestada, a restaurant, cultural hub

and bar all in one. He is currently head of Madrid’s

Matadero Design Center, a multidisciplinary space

devoted to art sponsored by the city council in

conjunction with other public and private bodies. In

parallel, Sergio also works for Orphanage Africa, an

NGO of which he is president of the Spanish delegation.

Sergio Volturo,Cultural Advisor

COM

MIT

TED

EpicureSpanish at Heart

12-ALMA ESPAN?OLA IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 14:51 P gina 136 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

El proceso creativo es el mismo:conocer los ingredientes (o materiales),saber armonizarlos y presentarlos deforma estéticamente atractiva, perosiempre teniendo en cuenta que, tantoel diseño como la cocina, tienen comoobjetivo cumplir una función. Elartista puede permitirse el lujo deprovocar, el diseñador o el cocinerono. Ciertamente, hay ejemplos dediseñadores convertidos en artistas yde artistas metidos ocasionalmente adiseñadores, pero hay una diferenciafundamental: el arte no tiene límite,por tanto no tiene por qué tener unfin; sin embargo, el diseño tiene quefuncionar, ha de ser útil. Un logotipotiene que contribuir a difundir unamarca, una mesa tiene que tener unosatributos de belleza pero también deutilidad, porque al final es unproducto que ha de venderse. Eldiseño tiene límites que no son sóloestéticos o culturales, sino tambiénfuncionales y esos límites los marca elmercado. Así que la pregunta “¿megusta o no me gusta?” en diseño notiene importancia, la pregunta es“¿funciona o no funciona?”.Ante una máquina-herramienta pocaspersonas son capaces de expresar algosobre su diseño pero, ante un dibujo ouna ilustración todo el mundo opina,¿el diseño gráfico es la cenicienta deldiseño? “En cierto modo sí, porque lagente no está informada y cree que eldiseño gráfico consiste solamente enhacer un dibujo, por ejemplo, un logo,sobre el que todo el mundo seconsidera capacitado para opinar enfunción de su particular criterioestético, pero el diseño gráfico no essólo eso. Como dice Manuel Estrada(director de arte de SpainGourmentour), el diseño no es la

guinda, detrás de un logo hay todo unconcepto de comunicación sobre elque se sustenta la identidadcorporativa de una empresa, que esuna cosa muy seria”.

Energía positivaA Sergio le seduce la fuerza y lapujanza de España, donde elcrecimiento económico se proyecta enfacetas creativas diversas como eldiseño gráfico, la gastronomía o laarquitectura, gracias a la audacia tantode empresas privadas como deorganismos públicos, que tienencapacidad para arriesgarse comoclientes. Ejemplos: la torre Agbar enBarcelona o el Museo Guggenheim deBilbao. Esta energía contrasta con elanquilosamiento que afecta a otrospaíses europeos, donde “se ha perdidoel coraje para emprender proyectosimpactantes. En Italia no se toca nadaporque se argumenta que todo eshistórico y monumental, pero laconsecuencia es que no se innova. Enlos últimos veinte años el únicoedificio interesante que se haconstruido es la Feria de Milán”.“Vosotros (españoles) quizá no soisconscientes de ello, pero en el mundo seempieza a hablar de un ‘modeloespañol’. Hay fuerza, hay energía socialy el crecimiento económico se sabecombinar con la calidad de vida, algoque no ocurre en la mayoría de lospaíses ricos. Por ejemplo, Andalucía estáestadísticamente entre las regiones máspobres de Europa Occidental pero, vasallí, y encuentras buenos restaurantes,buenos servicios e infraestructuras,alegría de vivir… A mí me encanta ir unfin de semana a Trujillo, Segovia oCuenca y ver que la gente trasnocha

hasta las siete de la mañana. Esto noocurre en ningún otro sitio”.Este dinamismo también se refleja enel diseño, aunque todavía en camposcomo el diseño industrial o el demoda, Italia va por delante. “Italia es elpaís del diseño porque ha sidohistóricamente ‘contaminado’ pormultitud de culturas; está repleto dearte y por tanto hay un gusto estéticoincrustado en la sociedad. Pero,además de esto, la empresa italiana,tras la Segunda Guerra Mundial,entendió que el diseño no era algomeramente decorativo. En Italia eldiseño fue impulsado por la empresa yno al revés, porque el empresarioentendió que era un elemento clave demarketing e imagen”.El marketing, la eterna asignaturapendiente de las empresas españolas.“España tiene muy buenos productospero no sabe comunicarlo”. Sergiorecalca lo que es fácilmentecomprobable cuando uno se da unavuelta por las tiendas gourmet deLondres, París o Nueva York. “EnItalia, la industria alimentaria hacemuchos años que concede unaimportancia crucial al packaging. Vasallí y encuentras cien botellas de aceitecon un diseño espectacular, aceite que,por cierto, muchas veces viene deEspaña. Los quesos españoles notienen packaging prácticamente. Pero,no obstante, se ha avanzado mucho enestos últimos años, especialmente en elsector del vino, con magníficasetiquetas, gracias a diseñadoresgráficos como Alberto Corazón, OscarMariné, Isidro Ferrer…”.A Sergio le encanta Madrid. “Ahoramismo una de las ciudades mástolerantes del mundo. Aquí entra unadrag queen de dos metros y medio en

Nuestra conversación se desarrolla enel antiguo matadero, un conjuntoarquitectónico que se reparte endiversos edificios ocupando unasuperficie de 150 mil metroscuadrados (187.500 yardascuadradas), junto al río Manzanares,en lo que, en 1925, fecha de suconstrucción, eran las afueras de laciudad. El edificio se está restaurandocon acierto. Las vigas y paredes sehan dejado crudas, mostrando elhierro o el ladrillo originales. “Se hanañadido elementos nuevos que nomodifican la identidad del edificio.Un exceso de modernidad a vecesarruina los espacios. El problema escuando los nuevos materialesdominan tanto que quitan el alma allugar. Pueden ser sitios estéticamentebellos pero fríos, con mucho vidrio,mucho metal, mucho design. Eldiseño ha de contribuir a dar alma alas cosas, no a quitársela”.El Matadero se convertirá en unrecinto dedicado a fomentar lacreación en materias como laarquitectura, las artes escénicas, lasartes visuales, la música, la literaturay el diseño. Respecto a este último,habrá un amplio espacio reservadopara exposiciones y también para laformación que, en un principio,comenzará con el diseño gráfico ydespués se extenderá al diseñoindustrial y la imagen corporativa,con la idea de, en el futuro, ofrecerestos servicios a las empresas. LaAsociación de Diseñadores de Madrid(DIMAD) está jugando un papel muyactivo en el desarrollo de esteproyecto y, de hecho, fue la quepropuso el nombramiento de unexperto como Sergio Volturo paradirigirlo.

“Hay otra faceta del diseño que tambiénme gustaría iniciar aquí: el Food Design,algo que está muy extendido en Italiapero que en España apenas se conoce y,por tanto, hay un mercado enorme”. ElFood Design abarca un campo muyamplio: desde la forma del alimento ydel envase que lo contiene hasta el lugardonde se consume (tiendas,restaurantes…) pasando por todos loselementos relacionados: etiquetas,cartas, cubiertos, vajillas, muebles,equipos de cocina, vestimenta delpersonal… “Hoy en día, no se comesólo con el paladar, se come con el resto

de los sentidos” apostilla Sergio, lo quetrae a colación a Ferran Adrià, el primercocinero español que habló del acto decomer como una experiencia sensorial(ver Spain Gourmetour, n.º 10) y que hasido protagonista este año de unadiscusión sobre si su cocina es arte o no(a raíz de su participación en laDocumenta de Kassel).“La polémica de Adrià en Kassel es muyespañola. En otros países no sedogmatiza tanto sobre lo que es arteo no. Yo, en este sentido, soy muyabierto, pero para mí la alta cocina separece más al diseño que al arte.

ALMA ESPAN?OLA.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 18:52 P gina 138

than art. It involves the same creativeprocess: knowing your ingredients(or materials), knowing how toharmonize them and present them inan aesthetically pleasing way, butnever losing sight of the fact that, indesign, as in cooking, the wholepoint is to fulfill a function. Artistscan afford the luxury of beingprovocative, while designers andcooks cannot. Of course one canthink of examples of designers whohave become artists and occasionallyof artists becoming designers, butthere is a fundamental difference: artis unfettered, and as such it does notneed an objective; design, on theother hand, has to be functional, ithas to be useful. A logo has to do itsbit to make a product known, a tablehas to have the attributes of bothbeauty and utility because, when all’ssaid and done, it’s a product that hasto hold its own in the marketplace.Design has limits–aesthetic andcultural, but functional ones too–andthese are imposed by the market. Indesign, the question: “Do I like it ornot?” is unimportant; the relevantquestion is: “Does it work or not?”Confronted with a machine or tool,few of us will have much to sayabout its design, but show us adrawing or illustration and we allhave an opinion. Is graphic designthe Cinderella of the design world,perhaps? “It is in a way, becausepeople don’t know enough about it.They think that graphic designconsists of merely drawingsomething, a logo for example, aboutwhich they all feel qualified to givean opinion according to their ownaesthetic standards. But there’s moreto graphic design than that. AsManuel Estrada puts it, design isn’t

just the icing on the cake. Behindevery logo there’s a wholecommunication concept upon whicha company’s corporate identitydepends… now that’s important!”

Positive energySergio finds Spain’s energy and drivevery attractive: the nation’s economicgrowth is reflected in various aspectsof creativity, among them graphicdesign, food and architecture. This isthanks largely to a can-do attitudeon behalf of both private enterpriseand public bodies, who are preparedto take risks as clients. The AgbarTower in Barcelona and theGuggenheim Museum in Bilbao aregood examples of this. This kind ofenergy contrasts with the stagnationaffecting other European countrieswhere “…they’ve lost the nerve toundertake spectacular projects. InItaly, the policy is to leave things asthey are on the grounds thateverything is historical andmonumental, but as a result there’sno innovation. The only interestingbuilding to have gone up in the last20 years is the Fiera MilanoCongress Center.”“You (the Spanish) may not be awareof it, but the world is starting to talkabout a ‘Spanish model’. What this isreferring to is clout, social energyand economic growth being cleverlycombined with a good quality oflife–this doesn’t happen in mostwell-off countries. Let me give youan example: statistically, Andalusia isone of the poorest regions inWestern Europe, but when you gothere you find good restaurants,good services and infrastructure, joiede vivre… I love going to Trujillo or

Segovia or Cuenca on the weekendand seeing how people stay up allnight enjoying themselves untilseven in the morning! You don’t findthat anywhere else.”This same dynamism is also reflectedin design, though so far Italy stillleads the way in such areas asindustrial and fashion design. “Italyis the country of design because ithas been historically ‘infected’ by somany cultures; it is crammed withart and as a result, aesthetic taste isembedded in its society. But anadditional factor is that, after WorldWar II, Italian business realized thatthere was more to design than themerely decorative. In Italy, designwas business-driven rather than theother way around becausebusinessmen understood what a vitalelement it was in marketing andimage.”Marketing–the exam that Spanishcompanies never quite manage topass! “Spain has very good productsbut it doesn’t know how to get themessage across.” Sergio has put hisfinger on something that is easy tospot when shopping in the smartfood shops of London, Paris andNew York. “In Italy, the foodindustry realized many years ago thecrucial importance of packaging. Ifyou go there you’ll find a hundredstunningly designed bottles of oliveoil–which, by the way, are often fromSpain. Spanish cheeses havepractically no packaging. But havingsaid all that, there has been someprogress in these last few years,especially in the wine sector forwhich marvelous labels have beencreated by graphic designers such asAlberto Corazón, Oscar Mariné andIsidro Ferrer, among others.”

138 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 139

SPANISH AT HEART

COLOPHON

SPANISH AT HEART

COLOPHON

Our conversation takes place in aformer matadero (abattoir), acomplex of several buildingsoccupying a 187,500 square yard(156, 773 m2) site beside theManzanares River that would havebeen on the outskirts of Madridwhen it was built in 1925. Now it isin the process of being cleverlyrestored: beams and walls have beenleft stripped, exposing the originaliron and brick. “New elements havebeen added without altering theidentity of the buildings. Spaces cansometimes be ruined by too muchmodernity. This happens when newmaterials are allowed to take over tosuch an extent that they destroy thespirit of the place. The results maybe aesthetically beautiful, but they’recold–lots of glass, lots of metal, lotsof Design with a capital D. Designshould contribute soul to thingsrather than taking it away.” The abattoir is being turned into acomplex whose purpose is to fostercreativity in such areas asarchitecture, theater, visual arts,music, literature and design. As fordesign, a generous space is to beallocated for exhibitions and fortraining, initially in graphic designand then extending to industrialdesign and corporate identity, theidea being to make these servicesavailable to companies in the future.The Madrid Association of Designers(DIMAD) is very actively involved inthe project and was, in fact,responsible for proposing theappointment of an expert such asSergio Volturo to run it.“There’s another facet of design thatI’d like to initiate here, too: ”fooddesign”, a concept that’s verywidespread in Italy but of which

there’s very little awareness in Spain,so there’s an enormous potentialmarket for it.” Food design is anumbrella term that covers a verywide field, ranging from the look offood and the containers in which itcomes to the places where it is eaten(shops, restaurants…) and all therelated elements in between: labels,menus, cutlery, crockery, furniture,kitchen equipment, staff clothing,etc. “Nowadays, we don’t just eatwith our palates, we eat with all theother senses too,” declares Sergio.This inevitably brings up the name

Ferrán Adrià, the first Spanish chefto describe the act of eating as asensory experience (SpainGourmetour No. 10) and who thisyear took part in Documenta Kassel(the international contemporary artshow), triggering a debate aboutwhether his cooking qualifies as artor not.“The Adrià-Kassel controversy is allvery Spanish. Other countries aren’tso dogmatic about what is art andwhat isn’t. I have an open mindabout it, though I would say thathaute cuisine is more like design

TEXTCARLOS TEJERO

TRANSLATIONHAWYS PRITCHARD

PHOTOSPABLO NEUSTADT/ICEX

12-ALMA ESPAN?OLA IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 14:51 P gina 138 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

El proceso creativo es el mismo:conocer los ingredientes (o materiales),saber armonizarlos y presentarlos deforma estéticamente atractiva, perosiempre teniendo en cuenta que, tantoel diseño como la cocina, tienen comoobjetivo cumplir una función. Elartista puede permitirse el lujo deprovocar, el diseñador o el cocinerono. Ciertamente, hay ejemplos dediseñadores convertidos en artistas yde artistas metidos ocasionalmente adiseñadores, pero hay una diferenciafundamental: el arte no tiene límite,por tanto no tiene por qué tener unfin; sin embargo, el diseño tiene quefuncionar, ha de ser útil. Un logotipotiene que contribuir a difundir unamarca, una mesa tiene que tener unosatributos de belleza pero también deutilidad, porque al final es unproducto que ha de venderse. Eldiseño tiene límites que no son sóloestéticos o culturales, sino tambiénfuncionales y esos límites los marca elmercado. Así que la pregunta “¿megusta o no me gusta?” en diseño notiene importancia, la pregunta es“¿funciona o no funciona?”.Ante una máquina-herramienta pocaspersonas son capaces de expresar algosobre su diseño pero, ante un dibujo ouna ilustración todo el mundo opina,¿el diseño gráfico es la cenicienta deldiseño? “En cierto modo sí, porque lagente no está informada y cree que eldiseño gráfico consiste solamente enhacer un dibujo, por ejemplo, un logo,sobre el que todo el mundo seconsidera capacitado para opinar enfunción de su particular criterioestético, pero el diseño gráfico no essólo eso. Como dice Manuel Estrada(director de arte de SpainGourmentour), el diseño no es la

guinda, detrás de un logo hay todo unconcepto de comunicación sobre elque se sustenta la identidadcorporativa de una empresa, que esuna cosa muy seria”.

Energía positivaA Sergio le seduce la fuerza y lapujanza de España, donde elcrecimiento económico se proyecta enfacetas creativas diversas como eldiseño gráfico, la gastronomía o laarquitectura, gracias a la audacia tantode empresas privadas como deorganismos públicos, que tienencapacidad para arriesgarse comoclientes. Ejemplos: la torre Agbar enBarcelona o el Museo Guggenheim deBilbao. Esta energía contrasta con elanquilosamiento que afecta a otrospaíses europeos, donde “se ha perdidoel coraje para emprender proyectosimpactantes. En Italia no se toca nadaporque se argumenta que todo eshistórico y monumental, pero laconsecuencia es que no se innova. Enlos últimos veinte años el únicoedificio interesante que se haconstruido es la Feria de Milán”.“Vosotros (españoles) quizá no soisconscientes de ello, pero en el mundo seempieza a hablar de un ‘modeloespañol’. Hay fuerza, hay energía socialy el crecimiento económico se sabecombinar con la calidad de vida, algoque no ocurre en la mayoría de lospaíses ricos. Por ejemplo, Andalucía estáestadísticamente entre las regiones máspobres de Europa Occidental pero, vasallí, y encuentras buenos restaurantes,buenos servicios e infraestructuras,alegría de vivir… A mí me encanta ir unfin de semana a Trujillo, Segovia oCuenca y ver que la gente trasnocha

hasta las siete de la mañana. Esto noocurre en ningún otro sitio”.Este dinamismo también se refleja enel diseño, aunque todavía en camposcomo el diseño industrial o el demoda, Italia va por delante. “Italia es elpaís del diseño porque ha sidohistóricamente ‘contaminado’ pormultitud de culturas; está repleto dearte y por tanto hay un gusto estéticoincrustado en la sociedad. Pero,además de esto, la empresa italiana,tras la Segunda Guerra Mundial,entendió que el diseño no era algomeramente decorativo. En Italia eldiseño fue impulsado por la empresa yno al revés, porque el empresarioentendió que era un elemento clave demarketing e imagen”.El marketing, la eterna asignaturapendiente de las empresas españolas.“España tiene muy buenos productospero no sabe comunicarlo”. Sergiorecalca lo que es fácilmentecomprobable cuando uno se da unavuelta por las tiendas gourmet deLondres, París o Nueva York. “EnItalia, la industria alimentaria hacemuchos años que concede unaimportancia crucial al packaging. Vasallí y encuentras cien botellas de aceitecon un diseño espectacular, aceite que,por cierto, muchas veces viene deEspaña. Los quesos españoles notienen packaging prácticamente. Pero,no obstante, se ha avanzado mucho enestos últimos años, especialmente en elsector del vino, con magníficasetiquetas, gracias a diseñadoresgráficos como Alberto Corazón, OscarMariné, Isidro Ferrer…”.A Sergio le encanta Madrid. “Ahoramismo una de las ciudades mástolerantes del mundo. Aquí entra unadrag queen de dos metros y medio en

Nuestra conversación se desarrolla enel antiguo matadero, un conjuntoarquitectónico que se reparte endiversos edificios ocupando unasuperficie de 150 mil metroscuadrados (187.500 yardascuadradas), junto al río Manzanares,en lo que, en 1925, fecha de suconstrucción, eran las afueras de laciudad. El edificio se está restaurandocon acierto. Las vigas y paredes sehan dejado crudas, mostrando elhierro o el ladrillo originales. “Se hanañadido elementos nuevos que nomodifican la identidad del edificio.Un exceso de modernidad a vecesarruina los espacios. El problema escuando los nuevos materialesdominan tanto que quitan el alma allugar. Pueden ser sitios estéticamentebellos pero fríos, con mucho vidrio,mucho metal, mucho design. Eldiseño ha de contribuir a dar alma alas cosas, no a quitársela”.El Matadero se convertirá en unrecinto dedicado a fomentar lacreación en materias como laarquitectura, las artes escénicas, lasartes visuales, la música, la literaturay el diseño. Respecto a este último,habrá un amplio espacio reservadopara exposiciones y también para laformación que, en un principio,comenzará con el diseño gráfico ydespués se extenderá al diseñoindustrial y la imagen corporativa,con la idea de, en el futuro, ofrecerestos servicios a las empresas. LaAsociación de Diseñadores de Madrid(DIMAD) está jugando un papel muyactivo en el desarrollo de esteproyecto y, de hecho, fue la quepropuso el nombramiento de unexperto como Sergio Volturo paradirigirlo.

“Hay otra faceta del diseño que tambiénme gustaría iniciar aquí: el Food Design,algo que está muy extendido en Italiapero que en España apenas se conoce y,por tanto, hay un mercado enorme”. ElFood Design abarca un campo muyamplio: desde la forma del alimento ydel envase que lo contiene hasta el lugardonde se consume (tiendas,restaurantes…) pasando por todos loselementos relacionados: etiquetas,cartas, cubiertos, vajillas, muebles,equipos de cocina, vestimenta delpersonal… “Hoy en día, no se comesólo con el paladar, se come con el resto

de los sentidos” apostilla Sergio, lo quetrae a colación a Ferran Adrià, el primercocinero español que habló del acto decomer como una experiencia sensorial(ver Spain Gourmetour, n.º 10) y que hasido protagonista este año de unadiscusión sobre si su cocina es arte o no(a raíz de su participación en laDocumenta de Kassel).“La polémica de Adrià en Kassel es muyespañola. En otros países no sedogmatiza tanto sobre lo que es arteo no. Yo, en este sentido, soy muyabierto, pero para mí la alta cocina separece más al diseño que al arte.

ALMA ESPAN?OLA.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 18:52 P gina 138

than art. It involves the same creativeprocess: knowing your ingredients(or materials), knowing how toharmonize them and present them inan aesthetically pleasing way, butnever losing sight of the fact that, indesign, as in cooking, the wholepoint is to fulfill a function. Artistscan afford the luxury of beingprovocative, while designers andcooks cannot. Of course one canthink of examples of designers whohave become artists and occasionallyof artists becoming designers, butthere is a fundamental difference: artis unfettered, and as such it does notneed an objective; design, on theother hand, has to be functional, ithas to be useful. A logo has to do itsbit to make a product known, a tablehas to have the attributes of bothbeauty and utility because, when all’ssaid and done, it’s a product that hasto hold its own in the marketplace.Design has limits–aesthetic andcultural, but functional ones too–andthese are imposed by the market. Indesign, the question: “Do I like it ornot?” is unimportant; the relevantquestion is: “Does it work or not?”Confronted with a machine or tool,few of us will have much to sayabout its design, but show us adrawing or illustration and we allhave an opinion. Is graphic designthe Cinderella of the design world,perhaps? “It is in a way, becausepeople don’t know enough about it.They think that graphic designconsists of merely drawingsomething, a logo for example, aboutwhich they all feel qualified to givean opinion according to their ownaesthetic standards. But there’s moreto graphic design than that. AsManuel Estrada puts it, design isn’t

just the icing on the cake. Behindevery logo there’s a wholecommunication concept upon whicha company’s corporate identitydepends… now that’s important!”

Positive energySergio finds Spain’s energy and drivevery attractive: the nation’s economicgrowth is reflected in various aspectsof creativity, among them graphicdesign, food and architecture. This isthanks largely to a can-do attitudeon behalf of both private enterpriseand public bodies, who are preparedto take risks as clients. The AgbarTower in Barcelona and theGuggenheim Museum in Bilbao aregood examples of this. This kind ofenergy contrasts with the stagnationaffecting other European countrieswhere “…they’ve lost the nerve toundertake spectacular projects. InItaly, the policy is to leave things asthey are on the grounds thateverything is historical andmonumental, but as a result there’sno innovation. The only interestingbuilding to have gone up in the last20 years is the Fiera MilanoCongress Center.”“You (the Spanish) may not be awareof it, but the world is starting to talkabout a ‘Spanish model’. What this isreferring to is clout, social energyand economic growth being cleverlycombined with a good quality oflife–this doesn’t happen in mostwell-off countries. Let me give youan example: statistically, Andalusia isone of the poorest regions inWestern Europe, but when you gothere you find good restaurants,good services and infrastructure, joiede vivre… I love going to Trujillo or

Segovia or Cuenca on the weekendand seeing how people stay up allnight enjoying themselves untilseven in the morning! You don’t findthat anywhere else.”This same dynamism is also reflectedin design, though so far Italy stillleads the way in such areas asindustrial and fashion design. “Italyis the country of design because ithas been historically ‘infected’ by somany cultures; it is crammed withart and as a result, aesthetic taste isembedded in its society. But anadditional factor is that, after WorldWar II, Italian business realized thatthere was more to design than themerely decorative. In Italy, designwas business-driven rather than theother way around becausebusinessmen understood what a vitalelement it was in marketing andimage.”Marketing–the exam that Spanishcompanies never quite manage topass! “Spain has very good productsbut it doesn’t know how to get themessage across.” Sergio has put hisfinger on something that is easy tospot when shopping in the smartfood shops of London, Paris andNew York. “In Italy, the foodindustry realized many years ago thecrucial importance of packaging. Ifyou go there you’ll find a hundredstunningly designed bottles of oliveoil–which, by the way, are often fromSpain. Spanish cheeses havepractically no packaging. But havingsaid all that, there has been someprogress in these last few years,especially in the wine sector forwhich marvelous labels have beencreated by graphic designers such asAlberto Corazón, Oscar Mariné andIsidro Ferrer, among others.”

138 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 139

SPANISH AT HEART

COLOPHON

SPANISH AT HEART

COLOPHON

Our conversation takes place in aformer matadero (abattoir), acomplex of several buildingsoccupying a 187,500 square yard(156, 773 m2) site beside theManzanares River that would havebeen on the outskirts of Madridwhen it was built in 1925. Now it isin the process of being cleverlyrestored: beams and walls have beenleft stripped, exposing the originaliron and brick. “New elements havebeen added without altering theidentity of the buildings. Spaces cansometimes be ruined by too muchmodernity. This happens when newmaterials are allowed to take over tosuch an extent that they destroy thespirit of the place. The results maybe aesthetically beautiful, but they’recold–lots of glass, lots of metal, lotsof Design with a capital D. Designshould contribute soul to thingsrather than taking it away.” The abattoir is being turned into acomplex whose purpose is to fostercreativity in such areas asarchitecture, theater, visual arts,music, literature and design. As fordesign, a generous space is to beallocated for exhibitions and fortraining, initially in graphic designand then extending to industrialdesign and corporate identity, theidea being to make these servicesavailable to companies in the future.The Madrid Association of Designers(DIMAD) is very actively involved inthe project and was, in fact,responsible for proposing theappointment of an expert such asSergio Volturo to run it.“There’s another facet of design thatI’d like to initiate here, too: ”fooddesign”, a concept that’s verywidespread in Italy but of which

there’s very little awareness in Spain,so there’s an enormous potentialmarket for it.” Food design is anumbrella term that covers a verywide field, ranging from the look offood and the containers in which itcomes to the places where it is eaten(shops, restaurants…) and all therelated elements in between: labels,menus, cutlery, crockery, furniture,kitchen equipment, staff clothing,etc. “Nowadays, we don’t just eatwith our palates, we eat with all theother senses too,” declares Sergio.This inevitably brings up the name

Ferrán Adrià, the first Spanish chefto describe the act of eating as asensory experience (SpainGourmetour No. 10) and who thisyear took part in Documenta Kassel(the international contemporary artshow), triggering a debate aboutwhether his cooking qualifies as artor not.“The Adrià-Kassel controversy is allvery Spanish. Other countries aren’tso dogmatic about what is art andwhat isn’t. I have an open mindabout it, though I would say thathaute cuisine is more like design

TEXTCARLOS TEJERO

TRANSLATIONHAWYS PRITCHARD

PHOTOSPABLO NEUSTADT/ICEX

12-ALMA ESPAN?OLA IN.qxd:MAQUETA FRUTOS MAPA.qxd 29/11/07 14:51 P gina 138 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

ALMA ESPAÑOLA.qxd 24/11/07 01:11 Página 140

140 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

Sergio loves Madrid. “At this point intime, it’s one of the most tolerantcities in the world. A six-foot-fourdrag queen can go into a café andthe waiter will serve him withoutbatting an eyelid, just like any othercustomer. In Milan, they’d call thecarabinieri! I lived there for 30 yearsand yet I consider myself moreMadrileño than Milanese. I feel morecomfortable here. Other foreignersthat I know say the same. The clichéthat Madrid is quick to integrate allsorts of people really is true.“And then, of course, the food is sogood, though that’s true of thecountry as a whole.” Sergio issomething of a hedonist andappreciates life’s pleasures. Goodfood and wine are an essentialelement in his approach to life. “Ilove cocido madrileño (Madrid’sanswer to pot au feu, eaten assequential courses) and the wholeritual that goes with it, and alsogame, which we’ve lost in Italybecause everything has become sourbanized. Galicia’s fish and seafoodare spectacular. They treat fish verysimply in Galician cooking, whichis similar to the Italian way, so I likeit. The average quality and freshnessof products in Spain is very goodwherever you go. The same is trueof house wine in restaurants. And asfor prices: you can get a goodlunch-of-the-day for 15 euros here.You wouldn’t find that anywhereelse in Europe.“One thing you haven’t got in Spain,though, is decent boiled ham.” Thisleads the conversation intocontroversial territory. “As for curedham, I prefer Parma to Serrano,though I must admit that acorn-fedIbérico is unbeatable. Don’t exportit!” he warns ironically. “Once theChinese find out about it there’ll benone left for the rest of us!“What do I like least about Spain?An expression that you never hear in

Italy: ‘It can’t be done’. The spirit ofenterprise is still veryunderdeveloped in Spain. An Italiancompany is making a fortune out ofselling nails in China, simply byflavoring the nailheads with lemon,strawberry and so on (it is commonpractice for workers to hold nails intheir mouths as they work). This sortof bright idea, with the readiness totake the risks that it implies, isencountered more frequently in Italythan in Spain. Perhaps it’s a questionof character: Spaniards are tooserious and the Italians are morelaid-back. We live in a fast-moving

world and there just isn’t time tothink about things too much. That’swhy the Spanish miss opportunities:they don’t commit to a businessventure until they’ve dotted all the i’sand crossed all the t’s. That’s not theItalian way. Of course, manybusinessmen do go broke, but thenget back on their feet again and startanother business. If a businessmanfails in Spain, he probably won’t tryagain.”

Journalist Carlos Tejero is editorialcoordinator ofwww.spaingourmetour.com.

SPANISH AT HEART

COLOPHON

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Flores: aromas nuevos en tucocina (Flowers: newaromas in your kitchen) byCarlos D. Cidón. Spanish.Recently-cut rose petals,magnolias, jasmine, violets,dandelions–these are just afew of the ingredients thatshould be on hand in yourkitchen, according torenowned chef, Carlos Cidón(1 Michelin star). Add anexotic and surprising touchto many dishes, wines andliqueurs with edible flowers.In addition to their unusualaromas and flavors, they alsoprovide an attractive visualquality to our food. Fromfresh asparagus with lavendermayonnaise to chocolatesponge cake with rhubarb,tomato sauce and daisy icecream, it’s clear that if youadd a little flower power toyour cooking, there’s notelling what novel anddelicious dish you may make.(Editorial Everest, S.A.www.everest.es,info@everest.es)

Gastronomía saludable(Healthy gastronomy) byRafael Ansón and GregorioVarela. Spanish. In this booktwo very important conceptscome together: dietetics andgastronomy. With anextensive overview of theworld of food, chaptersinclude a wealth ofinformation on everythingfrom dieting, energy andnutrition and food groups toobesity, nutritional contentlabels, special diets for peoplewith health problems andmuch more. Enjoy the 60low-calorie, high-qualityrecipes from Juan MariArzak, Martín Berasateguiand Santi Santamaría andsavor the grilled monkfishwith clams or the partridgestew, not to mention thehealthy spins on traditionalfavorites like Asturian fabadaand cocido from Madrid.There’s no better book whichhelps readers understand theimportance of a healthy andbalanced diet that’s alsonutritional and tasty.(Editorial Everest, S.A.,www.everest.es,info@everest.es)

Combina tu cocina(Combine your cooking) byAsier Abal, RubénTrincado, Juan Pablo Bassiand Edorta Lamo. Spanish.Four chefs prove to be betterthan one in this collaborative,instructive and clevercookbook which bringstogether the Basque Country’sfinest. Each chef selects oneingredient and offers a seriesof four recipes with varyinglevels of difficulty. Then onecreation from each chef’sselection of four is chosenand combined into a finalrecipe, one of which is grilledscallops with paprika bread,sautéed wild asparagus andcauliflower soup. In additionto the wonderfulphotographs, the final recipepages also include an “OtherPossibilities” section withalternative combinations andingredients. Combat day-to-day monotony in yourkitchen and getexperimenting with these320 recipes where theoperative word is “combine”.(Ediciones Ttarttalo S.L.,ttarttalo@ttarttalo.com,oihana@ttarttalo.com)

LASTINGIMPRESSIONS

TextSamara Kamenecka

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and anchovies or tuna. Ortake a walk on the wild sidewith his more unusual disheswhich feature everythingfrom flowers to edible gold totruffles, not to mentiontoppings like garlic and leek,kiwi and bananas orchocolate pizza and pizzafondue.From insiders tips for makingdifferent types of bases, tocalzones, sauces and a shortselection of additionalrecipes, Martín shows thatthe possibilities are endless ifyou have some flour, waterand an open mind. (EditorialPlaneta, S.A.,www.editorial.planeta.es,www.planeta.es)

eggplant to the foie andstrawberry millefeuille orgoats’ cheese with nuts andquince jelly to the sea urchin,each dish is a gem of high-quality gastronomic design.Aloña is a true trendsetter forthis type of cuisine,reinventing it on a day-to-daybasis and doing nothing lessthan setting the benchmarkin the sector. With a wineand coffee list, elaborationand presentation instructions,special hints and arecommended wine for eachrecipe, Jose Ramón Elizondoand Kontxi Bereciartúa, themasterminds behind Aloña,show that good things reallydo come in small packages.(Cre & Com S.L.,gastromapa@euskalnet.net)

La Rioja, paisajesgastronómicos (La Rioja,gastronomic landscapes).Spanish. La Rioja’sgastronomy has been afundamental element inforging its unique characterand identity. Its gastronomyis tied to the land from whichit comes, changing like theseasons as time goes by andwise from inheriting culinarytraditions over the years.Here, 13 young andinfluential Riojan chefs regaleus with their recipes, likeFernando Andrés and his seabass stuffed with large redprawns, pumpkin cream andsaffron, and Pedro Masip andhis venison with apples. Withrecipes, photos andinformation on La Rioja, thisbook proves that the region ismuch more than winecountry–it has an exceptionalvariety and quality of food.(Gobierno de La Rioja,Consejería de Agricultura yDesarrollo Económico,publicaciones@larioja.org,www.larioja.org/publicaciones).

Las mejores pizzas delmundo (The best pizzas inthe world) by FabiánMartín. Spanish. You’veeaten them a million times,but you’ve never eaten onequite like this. Meet FabiánMartín, the man who isrevolutionizing the world ofpizzas. Officially consideredto be the best pizza-maker onthe planet, he’s the winner ofthe World’s Greatest GourmetPizza Award in New York, notto mention the Internationalpizza dough acrobaticschampion in 2006.With his book you too can bepart of the fun. Martín hascome up with a universalrecipe, a paradigm forgastronomic simplicity for adish which has reached newheights in terms of qualityculinary innovation. It’swhere non-conformity andcreativity come together in anew concept in pizza.They say you can’t reinventthe wheel, but he sure hascome a long way from tomatosauce and cheese. Try any ofhis “traditional” recipes forinstant success in thekitchen: Ibérico ham, hamand cheese, spinach, capers

elBulli desde dentro,biografía de un restaurante(elBulli from the inside,biography of a restaurant)by Xavier Moret. Spanish.elBulli, sacred temple onCala Montjoi in Girona,home to the most famous,influential and admired chefin all the world: FerránAdrià. Pick up this book andfind out about the manbehind the apron, whypeople wait years for areservation and how whatappears to be just anotherrestaurant on the beach hasbecome a cutting-edgeinstitution in globalgastronomic research.Embark on thischronological andsentimental journey aboutthe restaurant and all of itschefs, past and present, filledwith anecdotes and storieswhich make up the locale’shistory, and get a taste of thenew culinary language fromthe genius who wrote it.(RBA Libros, S.A., rba-libros@rba.es,www.rbalibros.com).

Un paseo gastronómico porEspaña (A culinary tripthrough Spain). Danish,Dutch, English, Finnish,French, German, Italian,Norwegian, Portuguese,Spanish, Swedish. Clearly acountry comprised of diverseregions such as Andalusia,Aragón, the Canary Islandsand the Basque Country hasdeveloped a complexculinary art. Diverse climacticconditions and the differentneeds of different areas overtime have given rise todifferent culinary customs.This book provides anextremely thorough look atall of the regions and whatsets them apart throughrecipes, photos and verydetailed information. Fromthe tapas culture, migas,ajoarriero and hunting in thePyrenees in Aragón toGalicia’s orujo, albariño,empanadas, oysters andoctopus, this book offers aluscious look at Spain and itsculinary wonders. (TandemVerlag GmbH, www.tandem-verlag.de; CulinariaKönemann)

Arquitectura y cultura delvino II, bodegas de CastillaLa Mancha (Thearchitecture and culture ofwine II, wineries in Castile-La Mancha) by Diego PerisSánchez. Spanish. Thevineyard is the immortal soulof Castile-La Mancha. Its600,000 hectares (1,482,632acres) not only comprise theregion’s landscape, but play avital role in the area’s historyand culture. Today the sectorin Castile-La Mancha is moredynamic, modern andprestigious than ever, andthis book offers an overviewof wine and its culture, goingbeyond the physical walls ofthe bodegas to look at how ithas shaped a socialmovement, a distinctbusiness culture and thedevelopment of the area.Organized by designation oforigin and by winery, learnabout the evolution of thesector, from technology tomarketing and from Almansato Valdepeñas. (EditorialMunilla-Léria,munillaleria@jazzfree.com)

Aloña [solo pintxos] (Aloña[just pintxos]) by JavierUrroz. Spanish. Pintxos,with “tx”, are more than justa snack to tide you over untilthe next meal; on thecontrary, they are extremelyexclusive form ofgastronomic expression andnobody does it better thanAloña Berri de Gos, Spain’sbest pintxos bar according tothe Gourmetour Guide 2006and winner of countlessawards in local and nationalcompetitions.The story behind the bar’s 20years in existence is toldthrough its most well-knownpintxos, 80 recipes whichshed light on this legendaryMecca in San Sebastian andits unique “haute barcuisine”.The book is divided into 3sections: Zarra (Classic), Berri(Modern) and Sormen(Cutting-edge), and thecreations pay homage totraditional Basque cuisine,but at the same time areprepared with just the righttouch of modernity, creatinga symphony of balancedflavors. From the cream ofpeas with yogurt flan and

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and anchovies or tuna. Ortake a walk on the wild sidewith his more unusual disheswhich feature everythingfrom flowers to edible gold totruffles, not to mentiontoppings like garlic and leek,kiwi and bananas orchocolate pizza and pizzafondue.From insiders tips for makingdifferent types of bases, tocalzones, sauces and a shortselection of additionalrecipes, Martín shows thatthe possibilities are endless ifyou have some flour, waterand an open mind. (EditorialPlaneta, S.A.,www.editorial.planeta.es,www.planeta.es)

eggplant to the foie andstrawberry millefeuille orgoats’ cheese with nuts andquince jelly to the sea urchin,each dish is a gem of high-quality gastronomic design.Aloña is a true trendsetter forthis type of cuisine,reinventing it on a day-to-daybasis and doing nothing lessthan setting the benchmarkin the sector. With a wineand coffee list, elaborationand presentation instructions,special hints and arecommended wine for eachrecipe, Jose Ramón Elizondoand Kontxi Bereciartúa, themasterminds behind Aloña,show that good things reallydo come in small packages.(Cre & Com S.L.,gastromapa@euskalnet.net)

La Rioja, paisajesgastronómicos (La Rioja,gastronomic landscapes).Spanish. La Rioja’sgastronomy has been afundamental element inforging its unique characterand identity. Its gastronomyis tied to the land from whichit comes, changing like theseasons as time goes by andwise from inheriting culinarytraditions over the years.Here, 13 young andinfluential Riojan chefs regaleus with their recipes, likeFernando Andrés and his seabass stuffed with large redprawns, pumpkin cream andsaffron, and Pedro Masip andhis venison with apples. Withrecipes, photos andinformation on La Rioja, thisbook proves that the region ismuch more than winecountry–it has an exceptionalvariety and quality of food.(Gobierno de La Rioja,Consejería de Agricultura yDesarrollo Económico,publicaciones@larioja.org,www.larioja.org/publicaciones).

Las mejores pizzas delmundo (The best pizzas inthe world) by FabiánMartín. Spanish. You’veeaten them a million times,but you’ve never eaten onequite like this. Meet FabiánMartín, the man who isrevolutionizing the world ofpizzas. Officially consideredto be the best pizza-maker onthe planet, he’s the winner ofthe World’s Greatest GourmetPizza Award in New York, notto mention the Internationalpizza dough acrobaticschampion in 2006.With his book you too can bepart of the fun. Martín hascome up with a universalrecipe, a paradigm forgastronomic simplicity for adish which has reached newheights in terms of qualityculinary innovation. It’swhere non-conformity andcreativity come together in anew concept in pizza.They say you can’t reinventthe wheel, but he sure hascome a long way from tomatosauce and cheese. Try any ofhis “traditional” recipes forinstant success in thekitchen: Ibérico ham, hamand cheese, spinach, capers

elBulli desde dentro,biografía de un restaurante(elBulli from the inside,biography of a restaurant)by Xavier Moret. Spanish.elBulli, sacred temple onCala Montjoi in Girona,home to the most famous,influential and admired chefin all the world: FerránAdrià. Pick up this book andfind out about the manbehind the apron, whypeople wait years for areservation and how whatappears to be just anotherrestaurant on the beach hasbecome a cutting-edgeinstitution in globalgastronomic research.Embark on thischronological andsentimental journey aboutthe restaurant and all of itschefs, past and present, filledwith anecdotes and storieswhich make up the locale’shistory, and get a taste of thenew culinary language fromthe genius who wrote it.(RBA Libros, S.A., rba-libros@rba.es,www.rbalibros.com).

Un paseo gastronómico porEspaña (A culinary tripthrough Spain). Danish,Dutch, English, Finnish,French, German, Italian,Norwegian, Portuguese,Spanish, Swedish. Clearly acountry comprised of diverseregions such as Andalusia,Aragón, the Canary Islandsand the Basque Country hasdeveloped a complexculinary art. Diverse climacticconditions and the differentneeds of different areas overtime have given rise todifferent culinary customs.This book provides anextremely thorough look atall of the regions and whatsets them apart throughrecipes, photos and verydetailed information. Fromthe tapas culture, migas,ajoarriero and hunting in thePyrenees in Aragón toGalicia’s orujo, albariño,empanadas, oysters andoctopus, this book offers aluscious look at Spain and itsculinary wonders. (TandemVerlag GmbH, www.tandem-verlag.de; CulinariaKönemann)

Arquitectura y cultura delvino II, bodegas de CastillaLa Mancha (Thearchitecture and culture ofwine II, wineries in Castile-La Mancha) by Diego PerisSánchez. Spanish. Thevineyard is the immortal soulof Castile-La Mancha. Its600,000 hectares (1,482,632acres) not only comprise theregion’s landscape, but play avital role in the area’s historyand culture. Today the sectorin Castile-La Mancha is moredynamic, modern andprestigious than ever, andthis book offers an overviewof wine and its culture, goingbeyond the physical walls ofthe bodegas to look at how ithas shaped a socialmovement, a distinctbusiness culture and thedevelopment of the area.Organized by designation oforigin and by winery, learnabout the evolution of thesector, from technology tomarketing and from Almansato Valdepeñas. (EditorialMunilla-Léria,munillaleria@jazzfree.com)

Aloña [solo pintxos] (Aloña[just pintxos]) by JavierUrroz. Spanish. Pintxos,with “tx”, are more than justa snack to tide you over untilthe next meal; on thecontrary, they are extremelyexclusive form ofgastronomic expression andnobody does it better thanAloña Berri de Gos, Spain’sbest pintxos bar according tothe Gourmetour Guide 2006and winner of countlessawards in local and nationalcompetitions.The story behind the bar’s 20years in existence is toldthrough its most well-knownpintxos, 80 recipes whichshed light on this legendaryMecca in San Sebastian andits unique “haute barcuisine”.The book is divided into 3sections: Zarra (Classic), Berri(Modern) and Sormen(Cutting-edge), and thecreations pay homage totraditional Basque cuisine,but at the same time areprepared with just the righttouch of modernity, creatinga symphony of balancedflavors. From the cream ofpeas with yogurt flan and

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A late dinner, discoveringthe food of Spain by PaulRichardson. English. Like somany people before him,Paul Richardson initially leftthe UK and came to Spain fora visit, until he ended upmoving there. He was sotaken by the culinary culturethat today, an acclaimed foodand travel writer, he haswritten a book about hisexperiences on the peninsula.At the heart of his love affairwith Spain is Spanish food,and understandably so. Spainoffers a rich mix ofgastronomic traditions allover the country, many ofwhich he documents here.He discusses the dramaticchanges that have taken placein the nation during the last25 years, reveals thefascinating fusion of old andnew within Spain’s culinaryworld, ponders how it hasshaped a truly diverse cultureand contemplates how it hastransformed Spain with time.Almost like picking upsomeone’s diary, this book,complete with a glossary,offers a journey around thecountry, an in-depth andwell-informed firsthand

account of one of Spain’smany unique characteristics,a story which he tells throughpersonal and personableanecdotes and adventures ina truly hilarious andfantastically observant styleall his own.From the traditional to themost avant-garde, from thepig slaughter to the fishauction, from Cádiz toBarcelona and from typicalSpanish coastal cuisine toshepard’s cooking in themountains, Richardson’sbook goes beyond “paella,oranges and gazpacho” togive the true low down onSpanish cuisine.(Bloomsbury Publishing,www.bloomsbury.com/paulrichardson)

1080 recipes, by Simoneand Inés Ortega. English,Spanish. Into every kitchenthere must come a bookwhich changes the way foodis cooked, which transformsthe way meals are made. Thisis that book. Simply put,1080 recipes is nothing shortof the authentic Spanishcooking bible. While thepopularity of Spanish foodhas gone through the roofand all the world raves aboutSpanish cuisine, andrightfully so, those cutting-edge and innovative recipesare all based on traditionalones–that’s right–good,wholesome, simple,straightforward, healthy,classic recipes.This masterpiece is the workof a legend in the sector,Simone Ortega who, with fivedecades of experience underher belt, is considered to bethe foremost authority ontraditional Spanish cooking.The book, originallypublished more than 30 yearsago as a collection of herhomemade creations, today isSpain’s best-selling cookbook,and has been for the lastthree decades with roughly

millions of copies sold,making it something of astaple in more than a fewhouseholds.With recipes from everySpanish region and chaptersincluding appetizers, sauces,stews and soups, legumes,vegetable and mushroomdishes, eggs, flan andsoufflés, shellfish, meat,poultry, game, fish anddesserts, as well as aselection of recipes ofSpanish or Spanish-inspireddishes from internationalchefs, insider’s cooking tips,a list of places to buy high-quality Spanish productsaround the world and arecipe index, it’s impossibleto ask for anything more in acookbook. 1080recipes,1080 satisfiedstomachs. (Phaidon Press,www.phaidon.com, )

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145

The following list includes aselection of exporters. It isnot intended as acomprehensive guide and forreasons of space, we cannotlist all the companies devotedto export of the featuredproducts. The informationincluded is supplied by theindividual sources.

EXPORTERS

FoodProducts

Pomegranate

Agrudeco, S.A.Tel: (+34) 965 451 461Fax: (+34) 965 422 458

Andrés Antón Esclapez,S.L.Tel: (+34) 965 454 674Fax: (+34) 965 458 050andres.anton@terra.es

Anecoop, S.C.Tel: (+34) 963 938 500Fax: (+34) 963 938 538info@anecoop.comwww.anecoop.com

Callosa d’en Sarriá, Coop.Agrícola, S.C.V.Tel: (+34) 965 880 100Fax: (+34) 965 881 853info@rucheytio.comwww.nispero.com

Cambayas, CooperativaValencianaTel: (+34) 966 637 488Fax: (+34) 966 637 292director@cambayas.comwww.cambayas.com

Cooperativa AlbafruitsTel: (+34) 965 485 246Fax: (+34) 965 487 192albafruits@albafruits.es

Francisco OlivaTel: (+34) 965 453 276/614 199Fax: (+34) 965 456 959foliva@servicam.com

Frugarva, S.A.Tel: (+34) 968 879 016Fax: (+34) 968 821 086frugarva@frugarva.comwww.frugarva.com

Frutas Mira Hermanos, S.L.Tel: (+34) 965 453 507Fax: (+34) 965 458 649comercial@altabix.eswww.altabix.es

Frutas y Hortalizas MásSerrano, S.L.Tel: (+34) 965 457 063Fax: (+34) 965 423 252hmassl@eresmas.com

Fuentes Mateo, S.L.Tel: (+34) 966 754 897Fax: (+34) 96 754 896

Grupo HortofrutícolaPaloma, S.A.Tel: (+34) 968 590 001Fax: (+34) 968 590 769info@gpaloma.comwww.gpaloma.com

Jaime Agullo, S.L.Tel: (+34) 965 458 656Fax: (+34) 965 421 656exp-damadeelche@wanadoo.es

Joanru, S.L.Tel: (+34) 966 754 030Fax: (+34) 966 754 420joanru@infonegocio.com

Los Chiguitos, S.L.Tel: (+34) 965 489 005Fax: (+34) 965 487 252loschiguitos@loschiguitos.es

Provincial Trade Office ofAlicanteTel: (+34) 965 985 213Fax: (+34) 965 125 452alicante.dp@mcx.es

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Conservas Artesanas Rosara,S.A.Tel: (+34) 902 304 010Fax: (+34) 948 690 301www.rosara.comPage: 4

Extenda-Agencia Andaluzade Promoción ExteriorTel: (+34) 902 508 525Fax: (+34) 902 508 535info@extenda.eswww.extenda.esPage: 10

F.J. Sánchez Sucesores, S.A.Tel: (+34) 950 364 038Fax: (+34) 950 364 422fjsanchezsa@larural.eswww.fjsanchez.comPage: Inside back cover

Federico Paternina, S.A.Tel: (+34) 941 310 550Fax: (+34) 941 312 778paternina@paternina.comwww.paternina.comPage: 7

González Byass, S.A.(Tio Pepe)Tel: (+34) 956 357 004Fax: (+34) 956 357 044ilopez@gonzalezbyass.eswww.gonzalezbyass.esPage: 11

Grupo GourmetsTel: (+34) 915 489 651Fax: (+34) 915 487 133jram@gourmets.netwww.gourmets.netPage: 154

Industrial Quesera CuquerellaTel: (+34) 926 266 410Fax: (+34) 926 266 413rocinante@manchanet.eswww.rocinante.esPage: 147

Loreto Speciality Foods, S.L.Tel: (+34) 954 113 825Fax: (+34) 955 711 056info@cenlo.comwww.cenlo.comPage: 8

Proaliment – Jesús Navarro,S.A.Tel: (+34) 965 600 150Fax: (+34) 965 603 012xavi@carmencita.comwww.proaliment.comPage: 9

Rafael Salgado, S.A.Tel: (+34) 916 667 875Fax: (+34) 916 666218export@rafaelsalgado.comwww.rafaelsalgado.comPage: 14

San MiguelTel: (+34) 932 272 300Fax: (+34) 932 272 398sbru@mahou-sanmiguel.comwww.sanmiguel.esPage: 15

Sánchez Romate Hnos., S.A.Tel: (+34) 956 182 212Fax: (+34) 956 185 276export@romate.comwww.romate.comPage: 155

Sánchez Romero CarvajalJabugo, S.A. ( 5 Jotas)Tel: (+34) 917 283 880Fax: (+34) 917 283 8935j@osborne.eswww.osborne.esPage: 12

Spanish Commercial OfficeTel: (212) 661 49 59Fax: (212) 972 24 94buzon.oficial@nuevayork.ofcomes.mcx.esPage:6

Unión Vitivinícola, S.A. –Marqués de CáceresTel: (+34) 941 455 094Fax: (+34) 941 454 400marquesdecaceres@fer.eswww.marquesdecaceres.comPage: 13

Viñedos y Crianzas del AltoAragón (ENATE)Tel: (+34) 974 302 580Fax: (+34) 974 300 046bodega@enate.esPage: 15

Aceites Borges Pont, S.A.Tel: (+34) 973 501 212Fax: (+34) 973 314 668abp.export@borges.eswww.borges.esPage: Inside front cover

Ángel Camacho Ali-mentación, S.A. (Fragata)Tel: (+34) 955 854 700Fax: (+34) 955 850 145info@acamacho.comwww.acamacho.comPage: 150

Beam Global España, S.A.(Harveys Bristol Cream)Tel: (+34) 956 151 500Fax: (+34) 956 342 601jerez@domecq.eswww.domecq.esPage: 152

Bodegas Chivite, S.A.Tel: (+34) 948 811 000Fax: (+34) 948 811 407bodegas@chivite.comwww.bodegaschivite.comPage: 146

Bodegas Franco EspañolasTel: (+34) 941 251 300Fax: (+34) 941 262 948francoespanolas@francoespanolas.comwww.francoespanolas.comPage: 151

Bodegas ProtosTel: (+34) 983 878 011Fax: (+34) 983 878 015www.bodegasprotos.comPage: 149

C.R.D.O. RuedaTel: (+34) 983 868 248Fax: (+34) 983 868 219comunicación@dorueda.comwww.dorueda.comPage: Back cover

Caja EspañaTel: (+34) 987 292 694Fax: (+34) 987 231 026cajaespanacomex@cajaespana.eswww.cajaespana.esPage: 153

ADINDEX

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PCHIVITE.indd 1 13/9/06 19:44:04

Ctra. de Toledo, s/n13420 Malagón (Ciudad Real) SPAIN

Tel.: +34 926 266 410 - Fax: +34 926 266 413e-mail: rocinante@rocinante.es

www.rocinante.es

PREMIUM QUALITY SPANISH CHEESE

- THE NOBILITY OF SPAIN -

III GOURMETQUESOS CHAMPIONSHIPMADRID 2005 “AGED SHEEP’S MILK CHEESE“

FIRST PRIZE WINNER

Rocinante 2005 27/11/05 10:55 Página 1

Conservas Artesanas Rosara,S.A.Tel: (+34) 902 304 010Fax: (+34) 948 690 301www.rosara.comPage: 4

Extenda-Agencia Andaluzade Promoción ExteriorTel: (+34) 902 508 525Fax: (+34) 902 508 535info@extenda.eswww.extenda.esPage: 10

F.J. Sánchez Sucesores, S.A.Tel: (+34) 950 364 038Fax: (+34) 950 364 422fjsanchezsa@larural.eswww.fjsanchez.comPage: Inside back cover

Federico Paternina, S.A.Tel: (+34) 941 310 550Fax: (+34) 941 312 778paternina@paternina.comwww.paternina.comPage: 7

González Byass, S.A.(Tio Pepe)Tel: (+34) 956 357 004Fax: (+34) 956 357 044ilopez@gonzalezbyass.eswww.gonzalezbyass.esPage: 11

Grupo GourmetsTel: (+34) 915 489 651Fax: (+34) 915 487 133jram@gourmets.netwww.gourmets.netPage: 154

Industrial Quesera CuquerellaTel: (+34) 926 266 410Fax: (+34) 926 266 413rocinante@manchanet.eswww.rocinante.esPage: 147

Loreto Speciality Foods, S.L.Tel: (+34) 954 113 825Fax: (+34) 955 711 056info@cenlo.comwww.cenlo.comPage: 8

Proaliment – Jesús Navarro,S.A.Tel: (+34) 965 600 150Fax: (+34) 965 603 012xavi@carmencita.comwww.proaliment.comPage: 9

Rafael Salgado, S.A.Tel: (+34) 916 667 875Fax: (+34) 916 666218export@rafaelsalgado.comwww.rafaelsalgado.comPage: 14

San MiguelTel: (+34) 932 272 300Fax: (+34) 932 272 398sbru@mahou-sanmiguel.comwww.sanmiguel.esPage: 15

Sánchez Romate Hnos., S.A.Tel: (+34) 956 182 212Fax: (+34) 956 185 276export@romate.comwww.romate.comPage: 155

Sánchez Romero CarvajalJabugo, S.A. ( 5 Jotas)Tel: (+34) 917 283 880Fax: (+34) 917 283 8935j@osborne.eswww.osborne.esPage: 12

Spanish Commercial OfficeTel: (212) 661 49 59Fax: (212) 972 24 94buzon.oficial@nuevayork.ofcomes.mcx.esPage:6

Unión Vitivinícola, S.A. –Marqués de CáceresTel: (+34) 941 455 094Fax: (+34) 941 454 400marquesdecaceres@fer.eswww.marquesdecaceres.comPage: 13

Viñedos y Crianzas del AltoAragón (ENATE)Tel: (+34) 974 302 580Fax: (+34) 974 300 046bodega@enate.esPage: 15

Aceites Borges Pont, S.A.Tel: (+34) 973 501 212Fax: (+34) 973 314 668abp.export@borges.eswww.borges.esPage: Inside front cover

Ángel Camacho Ali-mentación, S.A. (Fragata)Tel: (+34) 955 854 700Fax: (+34) 955 850 145info@acamacho.comwww.acamacho.comPage: 150

Beam Global España, S.A.(Harveys Bristol Cream)Tel: (+34) 956 151 500Fax: (+34) 956 342 601jerez@domecq.eswww.domecq.esPage: 152

Bodegas Chivite, S.A.Tel: (+34) 948 811 000Fax: (+34) 948 811 407bodegas@chivite.comwww.bodegaschivite.comPage: 146

Bodegas Franco EspañolasTel: (+34) 941 251 300Fax: (+34) 941 262 948francoespanolas@francoespanolas.comwww.francoespanolas.comPage: 151

Bodegas ProtosTel: (+34) 983 878 011Fax: (+34) 983 878 015www.bodegasprotos.comPage: 149

C.R.D.O. RuedaTel: (+34) 983 868 248Fax: (+34) 983 868 219comunicación@dorueda.comwww.dorueda.comPage: Back cover

Caja EspañaTel: (+34) 987 292 694Fax: (+34) 987 231 026cajaespanacomex@cajaespana.eswww.cajaespana.esPage: 153

ADINDEX

15-ANUNCIANTES IN.qxd:MAQUETA SPAIN OVERSEAS.qxd 30/11/07 06:53 P gina 146 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

PCHIVITE.indd 1 13/9/06 19:44:04

Ctra. de Toledo, s/n13420 Malagón (Ciudad Real) SPAIN

Tel.: +34 926 266 410 - Fax: +34 926 266 413e-mail: rocinante@rocinante.es

www.rocinante.es

PREMIUM QUALITY SPANISH CHEESE

- THE NOBILITY OF SPAIN -

III GOURMETQUESOS CHAMPIONSHIPMADRID 2005 “AGED SHEEP’S MILK CHEESE“

FIRST PRIZE WINNER

Rocinante 2005 27/11/05 10:55 Página 1

148 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

ITALYVia Broletto, 3020121 MilanTel: (2) 72 00 46 17Fax: (2) 72 00 43 18milan@tourspain.eswww.turismospagnolo.it

Via del Mortaro, 19Interno 500187 RomeTel: (6) 678 29 76Fax: (6) 679 82 72roma@tourspain.eswww.turismospagnolo.it

JAPANDaini Toranomon Denki Bldg6F-3-1-10 ToranomonMinato Ku, Tokyo 105-0001Tel: (3) 34 32 61 41/42Fax: (3) 34 32 61 44tokio@tourspain.eswww.spaintour.com

NETHERLANDSLaan van Meerdervoot, 8 A2517 The HagueTel: (70) 346 59 00Fax: (70) 364 98 59lahaya@tourspain.eswww.spaansverkeersbureau.nl

NORWAYKronprinsensgate, 30251 OsloTel: (47) 22 83 76 76Fax: (47) 22 83 76 71oslo@tourspain.eswww.tourspain-no.org

RUSSIATverskaya – 16/26º floor office A-601Moscow 125009Tel: (7495) 935 83 99Fax: (7495) 935 83 96moscu@tourspain.es

SINGAPORE541 Orchard Road # 09-04Liat Tower238881 SingaporeTel: (65) 67 37 30 08Fax: (65) 67 37 31 73singapore@tourspain.es

SWEDENStureplan, 6114 35 StockholmTel: (8) 611 19 92Fax: (8) 611 44 07estocolmo@tourspain.es

UNITED KINGDOM79 New Cavendish StreetLondon W1W 6XBTel: (20) 7317 20 00 Fax: (20) 7317 20 48londres@tourspain.eswww.tourspain.co.uk

UNITED STATESWater Tower PlaceSuite 915 East845 North Michigan AvenueChicago, IL 60611Tel: (312) 642 19 92Fax: (312) 642 98 17chicago@tourspain.es

8383 Wilshire Blvd. Suite 960Beverly Hills, CA 90211Tel: (323) 658 71 95Fax: (323) 658 10 61losangeles@tourspain.es

1395 Brickell AvenueSuite 1130Miami, FL 33131Tel: (305) 358 19 92Fax: (305) 358 82 23miami@tourspain.es

666 Fifth Avenue, 35th floorNew York, NY 10103Tel: (212) 265 88 22Fax: (212) 265 88 64nuevayork@tourspain.eswww.okspain.org

PARADORS CENTRALBOOKING OFFICERequena, 328013 MADRIDTel: (+34) 915 166 666Fax: (+34) 915 166 657/58www.parador.esreservas@parador.es

IRELAND35, Molesworth StreetDublin 2Tel: (1) 661 63 13Fax: (1) 661 01 11dublin@mcx.es

ITALYVia del Vecchio Politecnico, 316º20121 MilanTel: (2) 78 14 00Fax: (2) 78 14 14milan@mcx.es

JAPAN3Fl, 1-3-29. RoppongiMinato-KuTokyo 106-0032Tel: (3) 55 75 04 31Fax: (3) 55 75 64 31tokio@mcx.es

MALAYSIA20th Floor. Menara Boustead69, Jalan Raja Chulan50200 Kuala LumpurP.O. Box 1185650760 Kuala LumpurTel: (3) 2148 73 00/05Fax: (3) 2141 50 06kualalumpur@mcx.es

NETHERLANDSBurg. Patijnlaan, 672585 The HagueTel: (70) 364 31 66 / 345 13 13Fax: (70) 360 82 74lahaya@mcx.es

NORWAYKarl Johansgate, 18 C0159 OsloTel: (23) 31 06 80Fax: (23) 31 06 86oslo@mcx.es

RUSSIAUl. Vozdvizhenka, 4/7(enter via Mokhovaya)125009 MoscouTels: (95) 783 92 81/82/83/84/85Fax: (95) 783 92 91moscu@mcx.es

SINGAPORE7 Temasek Boulevard#19-03 Suntec Tower One038987 SingaporeTel: (65) 67 32 97 88Fax: (65) 67 32 97 80singapur@mcx.es

SWEDENSergels Torg, 12, 13 tr.SE-111-57 StockholmTel: (8) 24 66 10Fax: (8) 20 88 92estocolmo@mcx.es

UNITED KINGDOM66 Chiltern Street W1U 4LS LondonTel: (20) 7467 23 30Fax: (20) 7487 55 86 / 722464 09londres@mcx.es

UNITED STATES405 Lexington Av. Floor 4410174 4497 New York, NYTel: (212) 661 49 59/60Fax: (212) 972 24 94nuevayork@mcx.es

For tourist information, con-tact your nearest TOURISTOFFICE OF SPAIN

CANADA2 Bloor Street WestSuite 3402Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2Tel: (416) 961 31 31/40 79Fax: (416) 961 19 92toronto@tourspain.eswww.tourspain.toronto.on.ca

CHINATayuan Office Building 2-12-2Liangmahe Nanlu 14100600 BeijingTel: (10) 65 32 93 06/07Fax: (10) 65 32 93 05pekin@tourspain.es

DENMARKNY Ostergade 34,11101 Copenhagen KTel: (45) 33 18 66 30Fax: (45) 33 15 83 65copenhague@tourspain.eswww.spanien-turist.dk

If you would like to knowmore about any subject dealtwith in this magazine, exceptfor tourist information, pleasewrite to the ECONOMIC ANDCOMMERCIAL OFFICES ATTHE EMBASSIES OF SPAIN,marking the envelope REF:SPAIN GOURMETOUR.

AUSTRALIAEdgecliff Centre, Suite 408203 New South Head RoadEdgecliff NSW 2027 SydneyTel: (2) 93 62 42 12/3/4Fax: (2) 93 62 40 57sidney@mcx.es

CANADA2 Bloor St. East, Suite 1506Toronto Ontario, M4W 1A8Tel: (416) 967 04 88Fax: (416) 968 95 47toronto@mcx.es

CHINASpain Bldg., 5th-6th FloorGongtinanlu A1-b, ChaoyangDistrict100020 BeijingTel: (10) 58 799 733Fax: (10) 58 799 734pekin@mcx.es

25th Floor, Westgate Mall1038 Nanjing Xi Road200041 ShanghaiTel: (21) 62 17 26 20Fax: (21) 62 67 77 50shanghai@mcx.es

DENMARKVesterbrogade 10, 3º1620 Copenhagen VTel: (33) 31 22 10Fax: (33) 21 33 90copenhague@mcx.es

HONG KONG2004 Tower One, Lippo Centre89 Queensway AdmiraltyHong KongTel: (852) 25 21 74 33Fax: (852) 28 45 34 48hongkong@mcx.es

SPAINOVERSEAS

16-ESPAN?A EN EL MUNDO IN.qxd:MAQUETA SPAIN OVERSEAS.qxd 29/11/07 14:16 P gina 148 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

PPROTOS indd 1 4/4/07 17:14:53

148 JANUARY-APRIL 2008 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

ITALYVia Broletto, 3020121 MilanTel: (2) 72 00 46 17Fax: (2) 72 00 43 18milan@tourspain.eswww.turismospagnolo.it

Via del Mortaro, 19Interno 500187 RomeTel: (6) 678 29 76Fax: (6) 679 82 72roma@tourspain.eswww.turismospagnolo.it

JAPANDaini Toranomon Denki Bldg6F-3-1-10 ToranomonMinato Ku, Tokyo 105-0001Tel: (3) 34 32 61 41/42Fax: (3) 34 32 61 44tokio@tourspain.eswww.spaintour.com

NETHERLANDSLaan van Meerdervoot, 8 A2517 The HagueTel: (70) 346 59 00Fax: (70) 364 98 59lahaya@tourspain.eswww.spaansverkeersbureau.nl

NORWAYKronprinsensgate, 30251 OsloTel: (47) 22 83 76 76Fax: (47) 22 83 76 71oslo@tourspain.eswww.tourspain-no.org

RUSSIATverskaya – 16/26º floor office A-601Moscow 125009Tel: (7495) 935 83 99Fax: (7495) 935 83 96moscu@tourspain.es

SINGAPORE541 Orchard Road # 09-04Liat Tower238881 SingaporeTel: (65) 67 37 30 08Fax: (65) 67 37 31 73singapore@tourspain.es

SWEDENStureplan, 6114 35 StockholmTel: (8) 611 19 92Fax: (8) 611 44 07estocolmo@tourspain.es

UNITED KINGDOM79 New Cavendish StreetLondon W1W 6XBTel: (20) 7317 20 00 Fax: (20) 7317 20 48londres@tourspain.eswww.tourspain.co.uk

UNITED STATESWater Tower PlaceSuite 915 East845 North Michigan AvenueChicago, IL 60611Tel: (312) 642 19 92Fax: (312) 642 98 17chicago@tourspain.es

8383 Wilshire Blvd. Suite 960Beverly Hills, CA 90211Tel: (323) 658 71 95Fax: (323) 658 10 61losangeles@tourspain.es

1395 Brickell AvenueSuite 1130Miami, FL 33131Tel: (305) 358 19 92Fax: (305) 358 82 23miami@tourspain.es

666 Fifth Avenue, 35th floorNew York, NY 10103Tel: (212) 265 88 22Fax: (212) 265 88 64nuevayork@tourspain.eswww.okspain.org

PARADORS CENTRALBOOKING OFFICERequena, 328013 MADRIDTel: (+34) 915 166 666Fax: (+34) 915 166 657/58www.parador.esreservas@parador.es

IRELAND35, Molesworth StreetDublin 2Tel: (1) 661 63 13Fax: (1) 661 01 11dublin@mcx.es

ITALYVia del Vecchio Politecnico, 316º20121 MilanTel: (2) 78 14 00Fax: (2) 78 14 14milan@mcx.es

JAPAN3Fl, 1-3-29. RoppongiMinato-KuTokyo 106-0032Tel: (3) 55 75 04 31Fax: (3) 55 75 64 31tokio@mcx.es

MALAYSIA20th Floor. Menara Boustead69, Jalan Raja Chulan50200 Kuala LumpurP.O. Box 1185650760 Kuala LumpurTel: (3) 2148 73 00/05Fax: (3) 2141 50 06kualalumpur@mcx.es

NETHERLANDSBurg. Patijnlaan, 672585 The HagueTel: (70) 364 31 66 / 345 13 13Fax: (70) 360 82 74lahaya@mcx.es

NORWAYKarl Johansgate, 18 C0159 OsloTel: (23) 31 06 80Fax: (23) 31 06 86oslo@mcx.es

RUSSIAUl. Vozdvizhenka, 4/7(enter via Mokhovaya)125009 MoscouTels: (95) 783 92 81/82/83/84/85Fax: (95) 783 92 91moscu@mcx.es

SINGAPORE7 Temasek Boulevard#19-03 Suntec Tower One038987 SingaporeTel: (65) 67 32 97 88Fax: (65) 67 32 97 80singapur@mcx.es

SWEDENSergels Torg, 12, 13 tr.SE-111-57 StockholmTel: (8) 24 66 10Fax: (8) 20 88 92estocolmo@mcx.es

UNITED KINGDOM66 Chiltern Street W1U 4LS LondonTel: (20) 7467 23 30Fax: (20) 7487 55 86 / 722464 09londres@mcx.es

UNITED STATES405 Lexington Av. Floor 4410174 4497 New York, NYTel: (212) 661 49 59/60Fax: (212) 972 24 94nuevayork@mcx.es

For tourist information, con-tact your nearest TOURISTOFFICE OF SPAIN

CANADA2 Bloor Street WestSuite 3402Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2Tel: (416) 961 31 31/40 79Fax: (416) 961 19 92toronto@tourspain.eswww.tourspain.toronto.on.ca

CHINATayuan Office Building 2-12-2Liangmahe Nanlu 14100600 BeijingTel: (10) 65 32 93 06/07Fax: (10) 65 32 93 05pekin@tourspain.es

DENMARKNY Ostergade 34,11101 Copenhagen KTel: (45) 33 18 66 30Fax: (45) 33 15 83 65copenhague@tourspain.eswww.spanien-turist.dk

If you would like to knowmore about any subject dealtwith in this magazine, exceptfor tourist information, pleasewrite to the ECONOMIC ANDCOMMERCIAL OFFICES ATTHE EMBASSIES OF SPAIN,marking the envelope REF:SPAIN GOURMETOUR.

AUSTRALIAEdgecliff Centre, Suite 408203 New South Head RoadEdgecliff NSW 2027 SydneyTel: (2) 93 62 42 12/3/4Fax: (2) 93 62 40 57sidney@mcx.es

CANADA2 Bloor St. East, Suite 1506Toronto Ontario, M4W 1A8Tel: (416) 967 04 88Fax: (416) 968 95 47toronto@mcx.es

CHINASpain Bldg., 5th-6th FloorGongtinanlu A1-b, ChaoyangDistrict100020 BeijingTel: (10) 58 799 733Fax: (10) 58 799 734pekin@mcx.es

25th Floor, Westgate Mall1038 Nanjing Xi Road200041 ShanghaiTel: (21) 62 17 26 20Fax: (21) 62 67 77 50shanghai@mcx.es

DENMARKVesterbrogade 10, 3º1620 Copenhagen VTel: (33) 31 22 10Fax: (33) 21 33 90copenhague@mcx.es

HONG KONG2004 Tower One, Lippo Centre89 Queensway AdmiraltyHong KongTel: (852) 25 21 74 33Fax: (852) 28 45 34 48hongkong@mcx.es

SPAINOVERSEAS

16-ESPAN?A EN EL MUNDO IN.qxd:MAQUETA SPAIN OVERSEAS.qxd 29/11/07 14:16 P gina 148 (NEGRO INGLES plancha)

PPROTOS indd 1 4/4/07 17:14:53