EDITORIAL_71 AF.qxd 19/7/07 12:07 Página 1

EDIT

Editor-in-chiefCathy Boirac

Publication CoordinatorAlmudena Muyo

Intern JournalistsJorge Luis Bartolomé, David Cánovas Williamsand Celia Hernando

Editorial SecretaryAngela Castilla

Photographic ArchiveMabel Manso

Design and Art DirectionManuel Estrada, Diseño Gráfico

MapsJavier Belloso

Color SeparationsEspacio y Punto

Printed in SpainEgraf

AdvertisingCEDISATel: (34) 913 080 644Fax: (34) 913 105 141pcycsa@terra.es

D.L.: M.45.307-1990

ISSN: 0214-2937

NIPO: 705-06-030-X

PublisherICEXState Secretary for Tourism and CommercePº de la Castellana, 1428046 MadridTel: (34) 913 496 243Fax: (34) 914 358 876www.icex.es

CoverJavier Zabala

Information and Subscription:Spain Gourmetour is a publication of theSpanish Institute for Foreign Trade (ICEX) ofthe State Secretary for Tourism and Commerceto promote Spain’s food and wines, as well ascuisine and culture. The magazine is issuedthree times a year in English, French, Germanand Spanish and is only and exclusivelydistributed, free of charge, to tradeprofessionals, specialized journalists, chefs,cooking schools and other food and wineprofessionals. For more information, pleasecontact the Economic and Commercial Officesat the Embassies of Spain (see list on page116).The opinions expressed by the authors of thearticles are not necessarily shared by theSpanish Institute for Foreign Trade (ICEX),which cannot be held responsible for anyomissions or error in the text.

This issue is packed with history. We start off with a retrospective, retracing the

brilliant career Spanish wines have had over the past 25 years, how our maga-

zine has monitored it and how we sometimes even spotted trends before they

happened.

Vega Sicilia, one of the most evocative names in wine both in Spain and abroad,

has joined forces with another great name: Tokay. We bring you the latest on a

venture first launched 15 years ago.

The discovery of fire was unquestionably one of the biggest steps forward for

human civilization. In Spain, as in many other parts of the world, mastery of fire

finds expression in char-grilling–an art form whose boundaries are being stretched

by modern-day exponents. We introduce you to some of Prometheus’ followers,

with their new approach to fire and a repertoire that extends far beyond tradi-

tional sardines and steaks.

Apparently, the Sumerians had already discovered the deliciousness of truffles.

It’s good to know, then, that a scheme to cultivate truffles undertaken more than

three decades ago is bearing fruit! And did you know that Spain also breeds its

own sturgeon? Don’t believe it? The report on caviar from Granada is one for

you.

We close this issue with a visit to respected Hispanist Lord Thomas of Swyn-

nerton, otherwise known as Hugh Thomas, whose book on the Spanish Civil

War is an established classic. He shares his impressions of the making of mod-

ern Spain with us.

Cathy Boirac

Editor-in-Chief

00-MAQUETA EDITORIAL.qxd 19/7/07 14:12 Página 1 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

SUMARIO AF.qxd 11/7/07 23:40 Página 2

2 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 3

Editorial ...................................1

ColorsA Retrospective of Spanish Wine:1982–2007.Pressing On ............................16

WinesVega Sicilia. Spanish RootsAbroad.Hungarian Royalty ..................36

Around & AboutWine Tourism (II). The Pursuitof Wine ...................................42

Culinary FareNew Wave Grilling.Fanning the Coals ...................58

Food BasicsBlack Truffle.Earthy Aromas ........................72

RecipesPaco Roncero ..........................82Truffles....................................84

Business WatchOn the Move ...........................94Piscifactoría de Sierra Nevada.Caviar from Granada...............98

ColophonSpanish at Heart.Hugh Thomas, Historian.Spain’s Record-keeper ...........102

Regular FeaturesLasting Impressions...............107Exporters ..............................112Ad Index ...............................114Spain Overseas......................116Credits ..................................128

SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 No.71

CONT

ENTS

01-SUMARIO.qxd 14/7/07 14:13 Página 2 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

SUMARIO AF.qxd 11/7/07 23:40 Página 2

2 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 3

Editorial ...................................1

ColorsA Retrospective of Spanish Wine:1982–2007.Pressing On ............................16

WinesVega Sicilia. Spanish RootsAbroad.Hungarian Royalty ..................36

Around & AboutWine Tourism (II). The Pursuitof Wine ...................................42

Culinary FareNew Wave Grilling.Fanning the Coals ...................58

Food BasicsBlack Truffle.Earthy Aromas ........................72

RecipesPaco Roncero ..........................82Truffles....................................84

Business WatchOn the Move ...........................94Piscifactoría de Sierra Nevada.Caviar from Granada...............98

ColophonSpanish at Heart.Hugh Thomas, Historian.Spain’s Record-keeper ...........102

Regular FeaturesLasting Impressions...............107Exporters ..............................112Ad Index ...............................114Spain Overseas......................116Credits ..................................128

SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 No.71

CONT

ENTS

01-SUMARIO.qxd 14/7/07 14:13 Página 2 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

25años AF.qxd 12/7/07 08:40 Página 16

PRES

SING

ONA simple wander around Spain’s village and cities is enough to notice

that the country has undergone a dramatic change in the last 25 years.

Things are definitely no longer what they used to be. The same rings

true for the world of Spanish wine, which has transformed beyond

recognition, perhaps more so than many other aspects of Spanish life. A Retrospectiveof Spanish Wine:1982–2007

02-Vino de España IN.qxd 14/7/07 14:17 Página 16 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

25años AF.qxd 12/7/07 08:40 Página 16

PRES

SING

ON

A simple wander around Spain’s village and cities is enough to notice

that the country has undergone a dramatic change in the last 25 years.

Things are definitely no longer what they used to be. The same rings

true for the world of Spanish wine, which has transformed beyond

recognition, perhaps more so than many other aspects of Spanish life. A Retrospectiveof Spanish Wine:1982–2007

02-Vino de España IN.qxd 14/7/07 14:17 Página 16 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

25años AF.qxd 19/7/07 12:14 Página 18

18 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

Andalusia, conservation of oldvarieties in many areas), some not sogood (the on-going feeling of crisis,the unequal rate of modernization indifferent producing regions), butsome of the novelties are soimportant that the end result canonly be described as extremelypositive. Over these last two and ahalf decades, Spain has risen frombeing a non-entity on the worldwidequality wine scene to being one ofthe most promising wine-producingcountries in the world.In fact, Spain seems to be on the wayto becoming a global power in thefield of quality wine. Its competitiveedge is based on its prices whichcontinue to be very favorable, thepersonality achieved by the use ofnative varieties and diverse growingconditions, the high standard of itswineries and the increasing technicalknow-how of Spanish enologists.This new state of affairs has notcome to pass overnight, nor has ithappened by chance. It is the resultof a costly process, one thatcontinues today. There is still workto do, especially in the consolidation

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 19

25 YEARS

COLORS

In 1982, Spain had about 1.5 millionha (3.7 million acres) of vineyards.Irrigation was not allowed and 30 to34 million hl (793 and 800 billiongal) of wine were produced a year.There were 25 designations of originand little more than 10% of the wineproduced was exported, mostly inbulk. Twenty-five years ago, Spainheld little weight in the world ofquality wine, and its image was thatof a country producing oceans ofwhat the British call “plonk”, that is,cheap wine. Around that time, aBritish group with interests in Jerez,Harvey’s, sponsored a small wineguide that classified the whole ofcentral Spain as a producer ofanonymous bulk wines, disregardingthe DOs that were functioning onboth sides of the Castilian plain andomitting mythical brands such asVega Sicilia and newcomersincluding Protos and Pesquera.Today the vine-growing area issmaller, spanning just over 1 millionha (2.47 million acres), and thestunted, dry-farmed stocks havebeen transformed into modernplantations with the branchessupported on structures and wiresand often with drip irrigation. Morewine is being produced, about 40million hl (1 trillion gal). One thirdof the production is exported, mostly

in bottles, and there are now threetimes as many DOs. And perhapsmost importantly, there are nowmany more quality wines. Alongsidethe figures that have traditionallyhad a place on the internationalmarket–the famous Jerez clans, theTorres family or the very uniqueAlejandro Fernández–are someoutstanding creators of wine, such asÁlvaro Palacios, Marcos Eguren,Fernando Chivite, Javier Ausás andPeter Sysseck, among others.Together they are drawing acompletely new portrait of Spanishwine.Symptomatic of the change is theproliferation of specialistpublications. In 1986, when SpainGourmetour came out for the firsttime in English, wine informationwas limited to the veteran tradepublication La Semana Vitivinícola, aspecialist journal that was new atthat time, Bouquet, and articles in theonly gastronomic journal, Club deGourmets. At the end of that sameyear, the latter brought out the GuíaPráctica para Amantes y Profesionalesde los Vinos de España–thepredecessor of today’s Guía de VinosGourmet–a pioneer in its field andone of the few titles on the world ofwine that could be found inbookshops at the time. And to find

good wine to drink, you could tryone of the handful of specialist winestores or search for one of the fewrestaurants that had a sommelier.

Witnesses tochangeThe market now offers several winejournals such as Mi Vino, PlanetaVino,Vivir el Vino and Vinum, amongothers, there are many specialistwebsites and most gastronomicpublications pay special attention towine. Likewise, the general press hasregular wine sections and there areabout a dozen wine guides andyearbooks as well as countless textson different aspects of wine, fromproduction and conservation toserving and tasting. The interestincludes related activities, such as theincreasingly popular wine tourism.This fascination has also led to theopening of many specialist shops, thecreation of designated areas dedicatedto wine within stores and a greaterfocus on wine in restaurants wherethe sommelier is no longer a rarity.Over the last 25 years, thespecialized press has undergone aspectacular transformation withregards to Spanish wine. There arestill reminiscences of the past, somegood (the great old wines from

25 YEARS

COLORS

A summary always has a greaterimpact with regards to what it omitsthan for what it includes. This reviewaims to note the main milestones inthe history of Spanish wine asreflected in the pages of SpainGourmetour (SGT) (first published in1986 in English, followed in 1988 inFrench, in 1991 in German and in2003 in Spanish). With our reports onthe most significant designations oforigin and the great names in wine, wehave drawn up an outline which wetrust will serve to give readers areliable picture of a world that hasdeveloped at a vertiginous speed overthe last quarter of a century.

The Wines of Priorato: Past andPresentSpain Gourmetour No. 5, 4th quarter,1986Author: Víctor Rodríguez

One of the first wine-producing areasto be covered by SGT was Priorato.Based on the traditional Garnacha andCariñena grapes, wineries such asScala Dei would bring new life to thispart of Catalonia starting in the 1980s.The 100 points recently awarded toClos Mogador by Robert Parkerconfirm the good work done. AndrésProensa returned to Priorato in No. 55(2002) of SGT with his article “DOPriorato: Shades of Burgundy”, totestify to the rising popularity of thesestar wines.

S P A I N G O U R M E T O U R ,L O O K I N G B A C K W I T H A P E R S P E C T I V E

TEXTANDRÉS PROENSA

ILLUSTRATIONSJAVIER ZABALA

PHOTOSJUAN M. SANZ/ICEX

TRANSLATIONJENNY MCDONALD

02-Vino de España IN.qxd 16/7/07 13:39 Página 18 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

25años AF.qxd 19/7/07 12:14 Página 18

18 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

Andalusia, conservation of oldvarieties in many areas), some not sogood (the on-going feeling of crisis,the unequal rate of modernization indifferent producing regions), butsome of the novelties are soimportant that the end result canonly be described as extremelypositive. Over these last two and ahalf decades, Spain has risen frombeing a non-entity on the worldwidequality wine scene to being one ofthe most promising wine-producingcountries in the world.In fact, Spain seems to be on the wayto becoming a global power in thefield of quality wine. Its competitiveedge is based on its prices whichcontinue to be very favorable, thepersonality achieved by the use ofnative varieties and diverse growingconditions, the high standard of itswineries and the increasing technicalknow-how of Spanish enologists.This new state of affairs has notcome to pass overnight, nor has ithappened by chance. It is the resultof a costly process, one thatcontinues today. There is still workto do, especially in the consolidation

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 19

25 YEARS

COLORS

In 1982, Spain had about 1.5 millionha (3.7 million acres) of vineyards.Irrigation was not allowed and 30 to34 million hl (793 and 800 billiongal) of wine were produced a year.There were 25 designations of originand little more than 10% of the wineproduced was exported, mostly inbulk. Twenty-five years ago, Spainheld little weight in the world ofquality wine, and its image was thatof a country producing oceans ofwhat the British call “plonk”, that is,cheap wine. Around that time, aBritish group with interests in Jerez,Harvey’s, sponsored a small wineguide that classified the whole ofcentral Spain as a producer ofanonymous bulk wines, disregardingthe DOs that were functioning onboth sides of the Castilian plain andomitting mythical brands such asVega Sicilia and newcomersincluding Protos and Pesquera.Today the vine-growing area issmaller, spanning just over 1 millionha (2.47 million acres), and thestunted, dry-farmed stocks havebeen transformed into modernplantations with the branchessupported on structures and wiresand often with drip irrigation. Morewine is being produced, about 40million hl (1 trillion gal). One thirdof the production is exported, mostly

in bottles, and there are now threetimes as many DOs. And perhapsmost importantly, there are nowmany more quality wines. Alongsidethe figures that have traditionallyhad a place on the internationalmarket–the famous Jerez clans, theTorres family or the very uniqueAlejandro Fernández–are someoutstanding creators of wine, such asÁlvaro Palacios, Marcos Eguren,Fernando Chivite, Javier Ausás andPeter Sysseck, among others.Together they are drawing acompletely new portrait of Spanishwine.Symptomatic of the change is theproliferation of specialistpublications. In 1986, when SpainGourmetour came out for the firsttime in English, wine informationwas limited to the veteran tradepublication La Semana Vitivinícola, aspecialist journal that was new atthat time, Bouquet, and articles in theonly gastronomic journal, Club deGourmets. At the end of that sameyear, the latter brought out the GuíaPráctica para Amantes y Profesionalesde los Vinos de España–thepredecessor of today’s Guía de VinosGourmet–a pioneer in its field andone of the few titles on the world ofwine that could be found inbookshops at the time. And to find

good wine to drink, you could tryone of the handful of specialist winestores or search for one of the fewrestaurants that had a sommelier.

Witnesses tochangeThe market now offers several winejournals such as Mi Vino, PlanetaVino,Vivir el Vino and Vinum, amongothers, there are many specialistwebsites and most gastronomicpublications pay special attention towine. Likewise, the general press hasregular wine sections and there areabout a dozen wine guides andyearbooks as well as countless textson different aspects of wine, fromproduction and conservation toserving and tasting. The interestincludes related activities, such as theincreasingly popular wine tourism.This fascination has also led to theopening of many specialist shops, thecreation of designated areas dedicatedto wine within stores and a greaterfocus on wine in restaurants wherethe sommelier is no longer a rarity.Over the last 25 years, thespecialized press has undergone aspectacular transformation withregards to Spanish wine. There arestill reminiscences of the past, somegood (the great old wines from

25 YEARS

COLORS

A summary always has a greaterimpact with regards to what it omitsthan for what it includes. This reviewaims to note the main milestones inthe history of Spanish wine asreflected in the pages of SpainGourmetour (SGT) (first published in1986 in English, followed in 1988 inFrench, in 1991 in German and in2003 in Spanish). With our reports onthe most significant designations oforigin and the great names in wine, wehave drawn up an outline which wetrust will serve to give readers areliable picture of a world that hasdeveloped at a vertiginous speed overthe last quarter of a century.

The Wines of Priorato: Past andPresentSpain Gourmetour No. 5, 4th quarter,1986Author: Víctor Rodríguez

One of the first wine-producing areasto be covered by SGT was Priorato.Based on the traditional Garnacha andCariñena grapes, wineries such asScala Dei would bring new life to thispart of Catalonia starting in the 1980s.The 100 points recently awarded toClos Mogador by Robert Parkerconfirm the good work done. AndrésProensa returned to Priorato in No. 55(2002) of SGT with his article “DOPriorato: Shades of Burgundy”, totestify to the rising popularity of thesestar wines.

S P A I N G O U R M E T O U R ,L O O K I N G B A C K W I T H A P E R S P E C T I V E

TEXTANDRÉS PROENSA

ILLUSTRATIONSJAVIER ZABALA

PHOTOSJUAN M. SANZ/ICEX

TRANSLATIONJENNY MCDONALD

02-Vino de España IN.qxd 16/7/07 13:39 Página 18 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

25años AF.qxd 12/7/07 04:31 Página 20

20 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 21

25 YEARS

COLORS

Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,Merlot and Chardonnay.Following in the footsteps of thePenedès vineyards came Miguel A.Torres who, soon after completinghis studies, was to take charge of hisfamily’s winery and convert it into aspearhead for modern viticultureand a testing-ground for the latestgrowing, production and agingtechniques. He was to become one ofthe most emblematic members of thenew generation of winemakers,followed closely by Carlos Falcó,Marquis of Griñón, champion inadopting new varieties and creator ofthe world’s first Petit Verdot varietal,in addition to New World farmingtechniques.Soon after, in the early seventies,another young enologist appeared onthe scene in search of newalternatives. Francisco Hurtado deAmézaga, from the Rioja area, wasabout to give up his attempts toachieve great white wines in thehundred-year-old Marqués de Riscalwinery, when he discovered thepotential of the Verdejo grape, thewhite variety from Castile. Close by,in Navarre, where the introduction

of this newfound prestige, with thegreat image developed thus farturning over time into the legendaryreputation enjoyed by great globalbrands. But even the most skepticalof observers has to acknowledge thehuge amount of progress made.

The first stepsDuring the early eighties, theSpanish wine map hardly existed.The unsuccessful Wine Statute of1932 and the 1946 regulations ondesignations of origin were replacedin 1971 by the Statute onVineyards, Wine and Spirits, whichpositively resulted in the creation ofthe Spanish National Institute forDesignations of Origin (INDO).This body played a decisive role inthe path taken by Spanish winesduring the 1980s and early 1990suntil the re-structuring of theSpanish State led to the transfer ofits powers to the newly-establishedregional governments.The first task for the INDO was tore-organize the sector. In 1982, theregister of vineyards was completed,more or less accurately recording

the area under vine, vineyardlocations, cultivation conditions, thevarieties grown, the size of plots, theage of stocks and other information.Meanwhile, the designations oforigin were developing andinitiatives were being taken topromote wine quality and modernizethe whole sector, including sales anddistribution.Also in 1982 and in parallel with thisprocess, ICEX, the Spanish Institutefor Foreign Trade (Instituto Español deComercio Exterior) started to promotequality Spanish wine exports, andWines from Spain was created, nowcelebrating its 25th anniversary (seebox on page 34).Modernization was underway. Evenin the 1960s, when Spain was stillrecovering from the long post-warperiod, the first steps were alreadybeing taken. The leaders included theSpanish-born, US-national Jean León,who set up his winery in the Penedèsregion. He experimented with someof the world’s most outstandingvarieties that were already forgingahead in the incipient Californianwine empire. Several were rejected,and the final choice were with

Toro Wines: From Medieval toModern TimesSpain Gourmetour No. 10, 1st quarter1988Author: José Carlos Capel

The full-bodied wines from Toro,dating back to medieval times,underwent a thorough transformationfrom the mid-1980s onwards. In just adecade, they adapted to moderntastes to become lighter, morebalanced and elegant without losingany of their character. SGT returned tothis region in northwest Castile 12years later (SGT No. 51, 2000). Thetitle speaks for itself: “A New Star onthe Duero, DO Toro”. People such asManuel Fariña were active participantsin this revolution.

Wines of Navarre: Looking to theFutureSpain Gourmetour No. 9, 4th quarter1987Author: Tony Lord

In the 1980s, the DO Navarre beganimportant research work on new grapevarieties both from other parts ofSpain (Airén, Verdejo and Xarel·lo, etc.)and from other countries (CabernetSauvignon, Pinot Noir and Syrah, etc.).SGT returned in 1991 to see howthings were progressing with an articleon its new reds called “Red Wines ofNavarre, Moving On” in issue No. 23.The story came full circle in 1997 withthe article entitled “Spain’s California:Navarre Goes Native” (No. 47), whichexplained how the native grapes wereonce again coming into their own withnew production methods, withoutrenouncing the contribution made byforeign grapes.

Ribera del Duero: Another LittleGem?Spain Gourmetour No. 10, 1st quarter1988Author: María José Sevilla Taylor

The first SGT article to focus on Riberadel Duero described it as “highlypromising” and closed with a questionmark. Today, the question has beenanswered in full, as explained by JohnRadford in 1994 in his article “Riberadel Duero: Keeping the Promises”(No. 32, 1994). Vega Sicilia, Pesquera,Pérez Pascuas and Protos are justsome of the names of wineries that aremaking history in this region.

S G T 1 9 8 7

S G T 1 9 8 8

02-Vino de España IN.qxd 14/7/07 14:25 Página 20 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

25años AF.qxd 12/7/07 04:31 Página 20

20 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 21

25 YEARS

COLORS

Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,Merlot and Chardonnay.Following in the footsteps of thePenedès vineyards came Miguel A.Torres who, soon after completinghis studies, was to take charge of hisfamily’s winery and convert it into aspearhead for modern viticultureand a testing-ground for the latestgrowing, production and agingtechniques. He was to become one ofthe most emblematic members of thenew generation of winemakers,followed closely by Carlos Falcó,Marquis of Griñón, champion inadopting new varieties and creator ofthe world’s first Petit Verdot varietal,in addition to New World farmingtechniques.Soon after, in the early seventies,another young enologist appeared onthe scene in search of newalternatives. Francisco Hurtado deAmézaga, from the Rioja area, wasabout to give up his attempts toachieve great white wines in thehundred-year-old Marqués de Riscalwinery, when he discovered thepotential of the Verdejo grape, thewhite variety from Castile. Close by,in Navarre, where the introduction

of this newfound prestige, with thegreat image developed thus farturning over time into the legendaryreputation enjoyed by great globalbrands. But even the most skepticalof observers has to acknowledge thehuge amount of progress made.

The first stepsDuring the early eighties, theSpanish wine map hardly existed.The unsuccessful Wine Statute of1932 and the 1946 regulations ondesignations of origin were replacedin 1971 by the Statute onVineyards, Wine and Spirits, whichpositively resulted in the creation ofthe Spanish National Institute forDesignations of Origin (INDO).This body played a decisive role inthe path taken by Spanish winesduring the 1980s and early 1990suntil the re-structuring of theSpanish State led to the transfer ofits powers to the newly-establishedregional governments.The first task for the INDO was tore-organize the sector. In 1982, theregister of vineyards was completed,more or less accurately recording

the area under vine, vineyardlocations, cultivation conditions, thevarieties grown, the size of plots, theage of stocks and other information.Meanwhile, the designations oforigin were developing andinitiatives were being taken topromote wine quality and modernizethe whole sector, including sales anddistribution.Also in 1982 and in parallel with thisprocess, ICEX, the Spanish Institutefor Foreign Trade (Instituto Español deComercio Exterior) started to promotequality Spanish wine exports, andWines from Spain was created, nowcelebrating its 25th anniversary (seebox on page 34).Modernization was underway. Evenin the 1960s, when Spain was stillrecovering from the long post-warperiod, the first steps were alreadybeing taken. The leaders included theSpanish-born, US-national Jean León,who set up his winery in the Penedèsregion. He experimented with someof the world’s most outstandingvarieties that were already forgingahead in the incipient Californianwine empire. Several were rejected,and the final choice were with

Toro Wines: From Medieval toModern TimesSpain Gourmetour No. 10, 1st quarter1988Author: José Carlos Capel

The full-bodied wines from Toro,dating back to medieval times,underwent a thorough transformationfrom the mid-1980s onwards. In just adecade, they adapted to moderntastes to become lighter, morebalanced and elegant without losingany of their character. SGT returned tothis region in northwest Castile 12years later (SGT No. 51, 2000). Thetitle speaks for itself: “A New Star onthe Duero, DO Toro”. People such asManuel Fariña were active participantsin this revolution.

Wines of Navarre: Looking to theFutureSpain Gourmetour No. 9, 4th quarter1987Author: Tony Lord

In the 1980s, the DO Navarre beganimportant research work on new grapevarieties both from other parts ofSpain (Airén, Verdejo and Xarel·lo, etc.)and from other countries (CabernetSauvignon, Pinot Noir and Syrah, etc.).SGT returned in 1991 to see howthings were progressing with an articleon its new reds called “Red Wines ofNavarre, Moving On” in issue No. 23.The story came full circle in 1997 withthe article entitled “Spain’s California:Navarre Goes Native” (No. 47), whichexplained how the native grapes wereonce again coming into their own withnew production methods, withoutrenouncing the contribution made byforeign grapes.

Ribera del Duero: Another LittleGem?Spain Gourmetour No. 10, 1st quarter1988Author: María José Sevilla Taylor

The first SGT article to focus on Riberadel Duero described it as “highlypromising” and closed with a questionmark. Today, the question has beenanswered in full, as explained by JohnRadford in 1994 in his article “Riberadel Duero: Keeping the Promises”(No. 32, 1994). Vega Sicilia, Pesquera,Pérez Pascuas and Protos are justsome of the names of wineries that aremaking history in this region.

S G T 1 9 8 7

S G T 1 9 8 8

02-Vino de España IN.qxd 14/7/07 14:25 Página 20 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

25años AF.qxd 12/7/07 08:42 Página 22

22 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 23

of foreign stocks was prohibited, theMagaña brothers were smuggling insamples of French varieties whichthey started to propagate in theirfamily’s nursery.

New grape varietiesThis was the beginning of a dualprocess in the renovation of Spanishviticulture–the adoption, on the onehand, of the most prestigious of theinternational grape varieties andsupport for the traditional, nativevarieties on the other. The two pathsare still being followed withfashionable varieties such as Syrahand Petit Verdot alongside Graciano,Monastrell, Garnacha, Prieto Picudoand other traditional varieties, led byTempranillo, Spain’s mostemblematic grape. At the same time,the wineries were undergoing atechnical revolution that had a lot todo with future trends for wines.Symptoms of change were alreadybeing noted in the leading zones.Rioja had taken the commercial leadwith a whole group of new wineries,the so-called “seventies generation”,which were able to take advantage ofthe improved Spanish familyeconomy to open the door for theconsumption of quality wines. Theproducers of cava were followingsuit, searching for ways to improvetheir products and try to competewith champagne. The methodfollowed was to improve the basewines by adopting cutting-edgetechniques. This was the golden ageof stainless steel, of refrigerationsystems to control fermentingtemperatures and of anything thatwould help improve the young wine.One of the mistakes made was theproduction of technological wines,made from selected yeasts that

ironed out all varietal character. Theeighties were a transition period,marked by a whole series of young,fresh, fruity wines. These weresuitable for special processes, such ascava, in which the subsequentprocessing gave them character, orfor the liqueur wines fromAndalusia, which actually neededwines with little character, acting likea blank canvas on which the agingprocesses could paint all the color.The Jerez wineries were also quick toadopt stainless steel and otherfeatures of modern winemaking.Soon the most intuitive winemakersrealized that wines not only had tobe technologically sound but alsohad to have personality. They thenresorted to the international grapevarieties that came in almost like aninvasion, not with as devastating astyle as Attila, but more like Scipio,who came prepared to Romanize thelands he conquered.

The improvingvarietiesSeveral factors were behind theintroduction of foreign varieties: firstthere was the uniformity of thewines produced using the newtechnologies and, second, the lack ofconfidence in native varieties. Also,the new varieties offered the specialcommercial appeal of their foreign-sounding names and prestige. As forwhite grapes, they were traditionallyobtained by what could be calledindustrial farming whichconcentrated on productivity and

25 YEARS

COLORS

alcohol content above all else, andwhose final destination wasdistillation. The varieties grownoffered high yield but little characteror aroma. In the case of red grapes,Garnacha, Cariñena, Monastrell andmany others were not consideredsuitable for wines that were going tobe aged.In both cases time showed that thesewere mistakes. It wasn’t that thevarieties weren’t good but that theywere not being treated properly.While their qualities were beingdiscovered, the gate was opened forwhat were called upgrading varieties,grapes with well-known virtues that,in combination with local ones, wereable to enhance the resulting wines.This sparked the renovation of manyvineyards, sometimes with suchenthusiasm that the native varietieswere completely displaced. InMurchante (Navarre), BodegasPríncipe de Viana had to buyGarnacha from other towns becausethe cooperative was not producingenough for the winery’s rosés.The eighties was when Spain wasinvaded by Cabernet Sauvignon,Merlot and Chardonnay. But a smallpocket of resistance in Rioja stoodfast, like the unyielding village of thecomic characters Asterix and Obelix,and only very recently, in fact thisyear, has the door been opened toother grapes apart from thetraditional seven. Authorization hasnow been given for new whitevarieties including Chardonnay andSauvignon Blanc and also, quitesignificantly, Verdejo. The debate,

The Wines of Somontano: SmoothWines from Rough CountrySpain Gourmetour No. 12, 3rd quarter1988Author: Víctor Rodríguez

Somontano is another of the smallDOs that attracted the attention ofSGT in the late 1980s, the mainreason being the native variety used,Moristel. “Very promising” is the mostfrequently-used expression in articleson the new Spanish DOs. TheSomontano wines did not take long toestablish a name for themselves. Proofof this was the article published tenyears later (SGT No. 18, 1999),reporting on the progress made bythis DO.

Fino: The Sherry Spaniards DrinkSpain Gourmetour No. 15, 2nd quarter1989Author: John Reeder

SGT has always had a special place inits heart reserved forsherries–manzanilla (SGT No. 21,1990), fino (SGT No. 15, 1989; No.25, 1991), cream (No. 30, 1993) andvintage sherry (SGT No. 36, 1995).One of the latest SGT articles on theworld of sherry covered the new VOSand VORS appellations for sherriesthat undergo long aging processes(SGT No. 54, 2001). How to marrysherry has been one of the star topicsin SGT with articles such as “Sherryand Cheese from Spain: The PerfectMatch” (No. 39, 1996) and the recent“Sherry at your Table!” (SGT No. 69,2007).

The Penedès Wine Industry: TheOld and the NewSpain Gourmetour No. 16, 3rd quarter1989Author: Tony Lord

One of the first examples of atechnological revolution in the world ofSpanish wine was seen in thePenedès district. This is where cavaand white wines rule, with such well-known international names asFreixenet and Codorníu. Over the lasttwo decades, SGT has devoted manyarticles to both the DO Penedès andthe world of cava. From “TheIrresistible Rise of Cava” in 1986 (SGTNo. 4) to “Characterful Cavas” (SGTNo. 54) in 2001, the progress of theSpanish sparkling wines has beencarefully followed by SGT.

S G T 1 9 8 8 S G T 1 9 8 9

02-Vino de España IN.qxd 14/7/07 14:27 Página 22 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

25años AF.qxd 12/7/07 08:42 Página 22

22 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 23

of foreign stocks was prohibited, theMagaña brothers were smuggling insamples of French varieties whichthey started to propagate in theirfamily’s nursery.

New grape varietiesThis was the beginning of a dualprocess in the renovation of Spanishviticulture–the adoption, on the onehand, of the most prestigious of theinternational grape varieties andsupport for the traditional, nativevarieties on the other. The two pathsare still being followed withfashionable varieties such as Syrahand Petit Verdot alongside Graciano,Monastrell, Garnacha, Prieto Picudoand other traditional varieties, led byTempranillo, Spain’s mostemblematic grape. At the same time,the wineries were undergoing atechnical revolution that had a lot todo with future trends for wines.Symptoms of change were alreadybeing noted in the leading zones.Rioja had taken the commercial leadwith a whole group of new wineries,the so-called “seventies generation”,which were able to take advantage ofthe improved Spanish familyeconomy to open the door for theconsumption of quality wines. Theproducers of cava were followingsuit, searching for ways to improvetheir products and try to competewith champagne. The methodfollowed was to improve the basewines by adopting cutting-edgetechniques. This was the golden ageof stainless steel, of refrigerationsystems to control fermentingtemperatures and of anything thatwould help improve the young wine.One of the mistakes made was theproduction of technological wines,made from selected yeasts that

ironed out all varietal character. Theeighties were a transition period,marked by a whole series of young,fresh, fruity wines. These weresuitable for special processes, such ascava, in which the subsequentprocessing gave them character, orfor the liqueur wines fromAndalusia, which actually neededwines with little character, acting likea blank canvas on which the agingprocesses could paint all the color.The Jerez wineries were also quick toadopt stainless steel and otherfeatures of modern winemaking.Soon the most intuitive winemakersrealized that wines not only had tobe technologically sound but alsohad to have personality. They thenresorted to the international grapevarieties that came in almost like aninvasion, not with as devastating astyle as Attila, but more like Scipio,who came prepared to Romanize thelands he conquered.

The improvingvarietiesSeveral factors were behind theintroduction of foreign varieties: firstthere was the uniformity of thewines produced using the newtechnologies and, second, the lack ofconfidence in native varieties. Also,the new varieties offered the specialcommercial appeal of their foreign-sounding names and prestige. As forwhite grapes, they were traditionallyobtained by what could be calledindustrial farming whichconcentrated on productivity and

25 YEARS

COLORS

alcohol content above all else, andwhose final destination wasdistillation. The varieties grownoffered high yield but little characteror aroma. In the case of red grapes,Garnacha, Cariñena, Monastrell andmany others were not consideredsuitable for wines that were going tobe aged.In both cases time showed that thesewere mistakes. It wasn’t that thevarieties weren’t good but that theywere not being treated properly.While their qualities were beingdiscovered, the gate was opened forwhat were called upgrading varieties,grapes with well-known virtues that,in combination with local ones, wereable to enhance the resulting wines.This sparked the renovation of manyvineyards, sometimes with suchenthusiasm that the native varietieswere completely displaced. InMurchante (Navarre), BodegasPríncipe de Viana had to buyGarnacha from other towns becausethe cooperative was not producingenough for the winery’s rosés.The eighties was when Spain wasinvaded by Cabernet Sauvignon,Merlot and Chardonnay. But a smallpocket of resistance in Rioja stoodfast, like the unyielding village of thecomic characters Asterix and Obelix,and only very recently, in fact thisyear, has the door been opened toother grapes apart from thetraditional seven. Authorization hasnow been given for new whitevarieties including Chardonnay andSauvignon Blanc and also, quitesignificantly, Verdejo. The debate,

The Wines of Somontano: SmoothWines from Rough CountrySpain Gourmetour No. 12, 3rd quarter1988Author: Víctor Rodríguez

Somontano is another of the smallDOs that attracted the attention ofSGT in the late 1980s, the mainreason being the native variety used,Moristel. “Very promising” is the mostfrequently-used expression in articleson the new Spanish DOs. TheSomontano wines did not take long toestablish a name for themselves. Proofof this was the article published tenyears later (SGT No. 18, 1999),reporting on the progress made bythis DO.

Fino: The Sherry Spaniards DrinkSpain Gourmetour No. 15, 2nd quarter1989Author: John Reeder

SGT has always had a special place inits heart reserved forsherries–manzanilla (SGT No. 21,1990), fino (SGT No. 15, 1989; No.25, 1991), cream (No. 30, 1993) andvintage sherry (SGT No. 36, 1995).One of the latest SGT articles on theworld of sherry covered the new VOSand VORS appellations for sherriesthat undergo long aging processes(SGT No. 54, 2001). How to marrysherry has been one of the star topicsin SGT with articles such as “Sherryand Cheese from Spain: The PerfectMatch” (No. 39, 1996) and the recent“Sherry at your Table!” (SGT No. 69,2007).

The Penedès Wine Industry: TheOld and the NewSpain Gourmetour No. 16, 3rd quarter1989Author: Tony Lord

One of the first examples of atechnological revolution in the world ofSpanish wine was seen in thePenedès district. This is where cavaand white wines rule, with such well-known international names asFreixenet and Codorníu. Over the lasttwo decades, SGT has devoted manyarticles to both the DO Penedès andthe world of cava. From “TheIrresistible Rise of Cava” in 1986 (SGTNo. 4) to “Characterful Cavas” (SGTNo. 54) in 2001, the progress of theSpanish sparkling wines has beencarefully followed by SGT.

S G T 1 9 8 8 S G T 1 9 8 9

02-Vino de España IN.qxd 14/7/07 14:27 Página 22 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

25años AF.qxd 12/7/07 08:43 Página 24

24 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

Enologists started to take growingconditions into account. They knewthat wine quality was largelydetermined in the vineyard so theybegan to take action in the field inorder to shape the profile of the endproduct from the very start.

This is difficult to achieve in avineyard that is not one’s ownproperty, so wineries adopted a newpolicy of buying up acres undervine. While in the seventies they hadbeen selling off their vineyards andwaiting in the winery for farmers to

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 25

25 YEARS

COLORS

25 YEARS

COLORS

harshness of the pebbly wines andput an end to prejudice regardingalcohol content. Around 1989, agroup of pioneers led by RenéBarbier started to produce some newred wines in the DO Priorato, a wildarea in inland Catalonia that hadbeen described in the sixties by agroup of sixty experts from the FAO(Food and Agriculture Organization)as having everything needed toproduce the best wines in the world.Nobody had believed them until theearly nineties when the first Prioratowines came out.These new Prioratos–Finca Dofí,Mogador, L’Obac, Erasmus andMartinet–opened a new chapter inthe history of Spanish wines with awealth of new concepts. Theseincluded different growing practicesand a change to native varieties (themuch-criticized Garnacha andCariñena) all the while ensuring theywere safeguarded and backed byforeign ones, some outstandingproduction processes, newapproaches to matters such as bodyand alcohol content and, mostimportantly, prices that had not beenseen before for Spanish wines.Another important change but onethat did not have such immediateeffects was the focus on the terruño,that is, the soil and growingconditions.In the 1990s, especially in the latterhalf of the decade, there was afundamental change in the workingphilosophy of wineries affecting bothproduction structure and the actualprofile of the wines produced.

modern producers of Rioja,including the Marquis of Riscal, andhad been used ever since. Thesolution was rather a clumsy one:they could be used but not named,and the euphemism “other varieties”was adopted.This substitution method was notused in other areas. In manydesignations of origin theinternational model was followed,with foreign varieties being used toattract customers. From the eightiesto the nineties, it seemed thatuniformity was to prevail, even inwine. There were many varietalsmade from foreign grapes, to such anextent that the profiles of manyclassic wines were becoming blurred,but it was soon seen that this wasnot working either.In contrast to the brownish winesthat dominated the Spanishpanorama, the international fashionwas to focus on color above all otherconsiderations. Colors were to bebright and intense at the cost ofother characteristics. This was thetime of pebbly wines with a brightrobe, plenty of body and a backingof green tannins. There were many

wines with vegetal hints, oftenbecause of the incomplete ripeningof the grapes. Producers werecautious about alcohol content soharvesting took place too early,before phenolic maturity, a conceptthat had not yet been fully grasped.This desolate panorama, fortunately,was not predominant throughoutSpain. In the eighties and especiallythe nineties, a style of wine thatcame naturally in some areas wasmaking its presence felt. This wasRibera del Duero’s chance. It hadbeen classified as a designation oforigin in 1982 and was making hugestrides forward, firstly ininternational markets and then athome. It was so successful that itwoke up the Rioja giant, which hadbeen resting on the laurels of itslarge volumes.

And then camePrioratoReaction to the surfeit of pebblywines turned consumers towardsMediterranean wines, with theintroduction of concepts such asphenolic maturity to get over the

The New Wines of La ManchaSpain Gourmetour No. 17, 4th quarter1989Author: John Reeder

This SGT report documented thewaking up of wines in La Mancha, theworld’s largest producer region. Thethorough technical revamping thattook place there is another of the keysto the article. The path followedtowards achieving quality wines wasagain covered in 1996 with twoarticles, “La Mancha: The FutureBuilding on the Past”, and “Wines ofLa Mancha: Onward and Upward”(No. 39, 1996). In “The New Wines ofDon Quixote’s La Mancha” (No. 62,2004), SGT reports on the progressbeing made by estate wines in theregion.

Alejandro Fernández: Forging aDream on the Castile PlainsSpain Gourmetour No. 18, 1st quarter1990Author: Richard Lorant

In 1990, Alejandro Fernández was thefirst to be featured by the Best of theBunch series, which traced theprogress of the winemakers andenologists who were responsible forthe changing wine scene in Spain. Thename behind Pesquera–the redcompared by Robert Parker with aPetrus–was one of those responsiblefor restoring life to Ribera del Duero.A combination of the latesttechnology, quality and marketingwere the keys to Fernández’s success.Other figures included in the Best ofthe Bunch were Mauricio González,Enrique Forner and Jean León.

The Rueda RevolutionSpain Gourmetour No. 19, 2nd quarter1990Author: Richard Lorant

To talk about Rueda as a new DO istechnically correct because it acquiredthis status in 1980, but the fact is thatthis region of Castile has beenproducing wine for five centuries. Amore appropriate term would be“revolution”, one that has resulted insome of Spain’s most highly-valuedwhite wines. Verdejo and Viura aretraditional varieties that are still beingused, but methods applying coldfermentation are now bringing out alltheir hidden nuances. This unique andsurprising character was described in1996 in the article, “And Now forSomething Completely Different: TheWhite Wines of Rueda” (SGT No. 40).

S G T 1 9 8 9 S G T 1 9 8 9

however, has re-opened–or, rather, itnever closed, regarding reds. Fromoutside Spain, it must have seemed arather odd argument. Varieties suchas Cabernet Sauvignon had beengrown in Rioja since they werebrought in 150 years ago by the first

02-Vino de España IN.qxd 14/7/07 14:29 Página 24 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

25años AF.qxd 12/7/07 08:43 Página 24

24 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

Enologists started to take growingconditions into account. They knewthat wine quality was largelydetermined in the vineyard so theybegan to take action in the field inorder to shape the profile of the endproduct from the very start.

This is difficult to achieve in avineyard that is not one’s ownproperty, so wineries adopted a newpolicy of buying up acres undervine. While in the seventies they hadbeen selling off their vineyards andwaiting in the winery for farmers to

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 25

25 YEARS

COLORS

25 YEARS

COLORS

harshness of the pebbly wines andput an end to prejudice regardingalcohol content. Around 1989, agroup of pioneers led by RenéBarbier started to produce some newred wines in the DO Priorato, a wildarea in inland Catalonia that hadbeen described in the sixties by agroup of sixty experts from the FAO(Food and Agriculture Organization)as having everything needed toproduce the best wines in the world.Nobody had believed them until theearly nineties when the first Prioratowines came out.These new Prioratos–Finca Dofí,Mogador, L’Obac, Erasmus andMartinet–opened a new chapter inthe history of Spanish wines with awealth of new concepts. Theseincluded different growing practicesand a change to native varieties (themuch-criticized Garnacha andCariñena) all the while ensuring theywere safeguarded and backed byforeign ones, some outstandingproduction processes, newapproaches to matters such as bodyand alcohol content and, mostimportantly, prices that had not beenseen before for Spanish wines.Another important change but onethat did not have such immediateeffects was the focus on the terruño,that is, the soil and growingconditions.In the 1990s, especially in the latterhalf of the decade, there was afundamental change in the workingphilosophy of wineries affecting bothproduction structure and the actualprofile of the wines produced.

modern producers of Rioja,including the Marquis of Riscal, andhad been used ever since. Thesolution was rather a clumsy one:they could be used but not named,and the euphemism “other varieties”was adopted.This substitution method was notused in other areas. In manydesignations of origin theinternational model was followed,with foreign varieties being used toattract customers. From the eightiesto the nineties, it seemed thatuniformity was to prevail, even inwine. There were many varietalsmade from foreign grapes, to such anextent that the profiles of manyclassic wines were becoming blurred,but it was soon seen that this wasnot working either.In contrast to the brownish winesthat dominated the Spanishpanorama, the international fashionwas to focus on color above all otherconsiderations. Colors were to bebright and intense at the cost ofother characteristics. This was thetime of pebbly wines with a brightrobe, plenty of body and a backingof green tannins. There were many

wines with vegetal hints, oftenbecause of the incomplete ripeningof the grapes. Producers werecautious about alcohol content soharvesting took place too early,before phenolic maturity, a conceptthat had not yet been fully grasped.This desolate panorama, fortunately,was not predominant throughoutSpain. In the eighties and especiallythe nineties, a style of wine thatcame naturally in some areas wasmaking its presence felt. This wasRibera del Duero’s chance. It hadbeen classified as a designation oforigin in 1982 and was making hugestrides forward, firstly ininternational markets and then athome. It was so successful that itwoke up the Rioja giant, which hadbeen resting on the laurels of itslarge volumes.

And then camePrioratoReaction to the surfeit of pebblywines turned consumers towardsMediterranean wines, with theintroduction of concepts such asphenolic maturity to get over the

The New Wines of La ManchaSpain Gourmetour No. 17, 4th quarter1989Author: John Reeder

This SGT report documented thewaking up of wines in La Mancha, theworld’s largest producer region. Thethorough technical revamping thattook place there is another of the keysto the article. The path followedtowards achieving quality wines wasagain covered in 1996 with twoarticles, “La Mancha: The FutureBuilding on the Past”, and “Wines ofLa Mancha: Onward and Upward”(No. 39, 1996). In “The New Wines ofDon Quixote’s La Mancha” (No. 62,2004), SGT reports on the progressbeing made by estate wines in theregion.

Alejandro Fernández: Forging aDream on the Castile PlainsSpain Gourmetour No. 18, 1st quarter1990Author: Richard Lorant

In 1990, Alejandro Fernández was thefirst to be featured by the Best of theBunch series, which traced theprogress of the winemakers andenologists who were responsible forthe changing wine scene in Spain. Thename behind Pesquera–the redcompared by Robert Parker with aPetrus–was one of those responsiblefor restoring life to Ribera del Duero.A combination of the latesttechnology, quality and marketingwere the keys to Fernández’s success.Other figures included in the Best ofthe Bunch were Mauricio González,Enrique Forner and Jean León.

The Rueda RevolutionSpain Gourmetour No. 19, 2nd quarter1990Author: Richard Lorant

To talk about Rueda as a new DO istechnically correct because it acquiredthis status in 1980, but the fact is thatthis region of Castile has beenproducing wine for five centuries. Amore appropriate term would be“revolution”, one that has resulted insome of Spain’s most highly-valuedwhite wines. Verdejo and Viura aretraditional varieties that are still beingused, but methods applying coldfermentation are now bringing out alltheir hidden nuances. This unique andsurprising character was described in1996 in the article, “And Now forSomething Completely Different: TheWhite Wines of Rueda” (SGT No. 40).

S G T 1 9 8 9 S G T 1 9 8 9

however, has re-opened–or, rather, itnever closed, regarding reds. Fromoutside Spain, it must have seemed arather odd argument. Varieties suchas Cabernet Sauvignon had beengrown in Rioja since they werebrought in 150 years ago by the first

02-Vino de España IN.qxd 14/7/07 14:29 Página 24 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

25años AF.qxd 12/7/07 08:43 Página 26

26 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 27

25 YEARS

COLORS

25 YEARS

COLORS

high alcohol content was no longerconsidered important. The reactionagainst pebbly wines led to thejammy wines that came along at justthe right time in the late nineties.This was when studies wereappearing on the heart-healthyqualities of moderate consumptionof red wine (with its resveratrol, the

French paradox), spurring the sale ofbright red wines full of beneficialsubstances. The wineries sold all oftheir production and areas such asRibera del Duero, where prices werenot cheap, finished off practically allof their stocks.And new horizons were opening upwithin the Spanish market. Although

Monastrell, Bobal, Cariñena andother minority varieties started toblossom once again, even some thathad practically disappeared from themap. The pebbly wines made fromunripe grapes were overtaken byreds made from very ripe grapes,with daring production methods andlong periods of maceration toachieve a bright color.At the turn of the century, thepassion for bright colors persisted,but vegetal tannins were rejected.The key expressions came to bephenolic maturity andconcentration, and the consequent

bring in their grapes, in the ninetiesenologists came out and got mud ontheir boots. The young specialistscoming out of agricultural schoolstarted traveling to see what wasgoing on elsewhere, and then camehome to spend long hours in thevineyards, designing, pruning andmanaging crops. They were

searching for ripeness,concentration, personality and theexpression of the terruño.On these foundations, with the skillof their winemakers and spurred onby the prices being fetched by thePrioratos and the progress beingmade by the Riberas, from the firsthalf of the nineties onwards, newstyles started to appear for the Riojareds. These were based on fruit withcolor, body and verve, limited agingcharacteristics and a more modernstyle. They soon started to triumph inthe international markets whilerecovering positions at the top of thespecialized press rankings which hadbeen occupied by emerging areassuch as the stars from Priorato andRibera del Duero. The newSomontanos and other top-qualitywines were appearing from everydirection.

Grandfather’svineyardsAmong the producer districts thatprofited from this new style wereprecisely some of the traditionallyless lucky areas. These regions hadhad to fight against theirenvironments in an attempt tolighten wines that naturally tendedtowards what had become known asthe Mediterranean style. These wereareas with tough growing conditionson poor, rough soil in harshclimates, with particularly hotsummers, such as parts of Aragónalong the Ebro River (Cariñena andCampo de Borja), the southern

region of Navarre, a good part ofCatalonia (Montsant, south ofCosters del Segre, Empordá), all ofthe eastern coast down to the areaknown as the Altiplano with its fivedesignations of origin (Almansa,Alicante, Yecla, Jumilla and thesouthern part of Valencia) andbeyond. This also included Bullasand the emerging red wine areas inAndalusia (Sierras de Málaga, Sierrade Cádiz) and even some inlandareas such as the DO Toro and thegiant La Mancha area.Previously marginal areas, they werenow becoming modern andattractive. Young enologists took upthe challenge of producing vigorouswines with no psychological barriersregarding alcohol content, and theyfound a real treasure in the nativevarieties. They were working onvineyards that had been neglected aspeople fled country life for the cities.The ancestral vineyards had onlysurvived as a meager means ofsubsistence for the aging populationthat was left behind. These oldvineyards were now behind the re-vitalization of whole districts, withtheir quality raw materials and theenthusiasm of young winemakerswho were prepared to take fulladvantage of the opportunities theyfound there.This process, which had alreadytaken place in Ribera del Duero inthe eighties and was repeated in thenineties in Priorato and Rioja,gradually spread all over Spain.Facing the threat posed by Cabernetor Syrah, the old stocks of Garnacha,

Jean León: The Man behind theLabelSpain Gourmetour No. 21, 4th quarter1990Author: Hawys Pritchard

SGT devoted another of its featurearticles to Jean León, the champion offoreign varieties in Spain. Arriving herein the early 1960s, he pioneered thecultivation of Chardonnay and thenintroduced barrel fermentationtechniques. By 1981 his wines hadachieved such recognition that theywere included on the menu for theinaugural dinner for Ronald Reagan.Today, it would be impossible toimagine regions such as Penedèswithout Chardonnay grapes and theother innovations introduced by León.

Marqués de Griñón: Wines withPedigreeSpain Gourmetour No. 22, 1st quarter1991Author: Hawys Pritchard

Carlos Falcó, Marquis of Griñón isundoubtedly one of the mostenterprising figures in the Spanishworld of wine. In 1991, SGT focusedon his activities from the previousdecade. Falcó was a big supporter ofthe concept of estate wines in Spainand, from the start, worked with bothnative varieties such as Tempranillo andinternational ones such as CabernetSauvignon and Petit Verdot. Over theyears, the wines from his main winery,Dominio de Valdepusa, have secured awell-deserved place in the internationalmarket.

Rosés, Rosados: The Very Pink ofCourtesySpain Gourmetour No. 23, 2nd quarter1991Author: John Radford

Rosés, the “midway” wines that arerarely in the spotlight, have played avery important role among Spanishwines. In No. 23, SGT traveled roundthe different producer areas such asValencia, La Mancha, Catalonia,Castile-Leon, Aragón and, of course,Navarre, reviewing the different grapesused. Other SGT articles featuringrosés were “Pink Parade” (No. 47,1999) and “In the Pink: Rosès” (No.61, 2004). These indicated the largenumber and the diversity of rosé winesin Spain.

S G T 1 9 9 0 S G T 1 9 9 1

02-Vino de España IN.qxd 14/7/07 14:30 Página 26 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

25años AF.qxd 12/7/07 08:43 Página 26

26 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 27

25 YEARS

COLORS

25 YEARS

COLORS

high alcohol content was no longerconsidered important. The reactionagainst pebbly wines led to thejammy wines that came along at justthe right time in the late nineties.This was when studies wereappearing on the heart-healthyqualities of moderate consumptionof red wine (with its resveratrol, the

French paradox), spurring the sale ofbright red wines full of beneficialsubstances. The wineries sold all oftheir production and areas such asRibera del Duero, where prices werenot cheap, finished off practically allof their stocks.And new horizons were opening upwithin the Spanish market. Although

Monastrell, Bobal, Cariñena andother minority varieties started toblossom once again, even some thathad practically disappeared from themap. The pebbly wines made fromunripe grapes were overtaken byreds made from very ripe grapes,with daring production methods andlong periods of maceration toachieve a bright color.At the turn of the century, thepassion for bright colors persisted,but vegetal tannins were rejected.The key expressions came to bephenolic maturity andconcentration, and the consequent

bring in their grapes, in the ninetiesenologists came out and got mud ontheir boots. The young specialistscoming out of agricultural schoolstarted traveling to see what wasgoing on elsewhere, and then camehome to spend long hours in thevineyards, designing, pruning andmanaging crops. They were

searching for ripeness,concentration, personality and theexpression of the terruño.On these foundations, with the skillof their winemakers and spurred onby the prices being fetched by thePrioratos and the progress beingmade by the Riberas, from the firsthalf of the nineties onwards, newstyles started to appear for the Riojareds. These were based on fruit withcolor, body and verve, limited agingcharacteristics and a more modernstyle. They soon started to triumph inthe international markets whilerecovering positions at the top of thespecialized press rankings which hadbeen occupied by emerging areassuch as the stars from Priorato andRibera del Duero. The newSomontanos and other top-qualitywines were appearing from everydirection.

Grandfather’svineyardsAmong the producer districts thatprofited from this new style wereprecisely some of the traditionallyless lucky areas. These regions hadhad to fight against theirenvironments in an attempt tolighten wines that naturally tendedtowards what had become known asthe Mediterranean style. These wereareas with tough growing conditionson poor, rough soil in harshclimates, with particularly hotsummers, such as parts of Aragónalong the Ebro River (Cariñena andCampo de Borja), the southern

region of Navarre, a good part ofCatalonia (Montsant, south ofCosters del Segre, Empordá), all ofthe eastern coast down to the areaknown as the Altiplano with its fivedesignations of origin (Almansa,Alicante, Yecla, Jumilla and thesouthern part of Valencia) andbeyond. This also included Bullasand the emerging red wine areas inAndalusia (Sierras de Málaga, Sierrade Cádiz) and even some inlandareas such as the DO Toro and thegiant La Mancha area.Previously marginal areas, they werenow becoming modern andattractive. Young enologists took upthe challenge of producing vigorouswines with no psychological barriersregarding alcohol content, and theyfound a real treasure in the nativevarieties. They were working onvineyards that had been neglected aspeople fled country life for the cities.The ancestral vineyards had onlysurvived as a meager means ofsubsistence for the aging populationthat was left behind. These oldvineyards were now behind the re-vitalization of whole districts, withtheir quality raw materials and theenthusiasm of young winemakerswho were prepared to take fulladvantage of the opportunities theyfound there.This process, which had alreadytaken place in Ribera del Duero inthe eighties and was repeated in thenineties in Priorato and Rioja,gradually spread all over Spain.Facing the threat posed by Cabernetor Syrah, the old stocks of Garnacha,

Jean León: The Man behind theLabelSpain Gourmetour No. 21, 4th quarter1990Author: Hawys Pritchard

SGT devoted another of its featurearticles to Jean León, the champion offoreign varieties in Spain. Arriving herein the early 1960s, he pioneered thecultivation of Chardonnay and thenintroduced barrel fermentationtechniques. By 1981 his wines hadachieved such recognition that theywere included on the menu for theinaugural dinner for Ronald Reagan.Today, it would be impossible toimagine regions such as Penedèswithout Chardonnay grapes and theother innovations introduced by León.

Marqués de Griñón: Wines withPedigreeSpain Gourmetour No. 22, 1st quarter1991Author: Hawys Pritchard

Carlos Falcó, Marquis of Griñón isundoubtedly one of the mostenterprising figures in the Spanishworld of wine. In 1991, SGT focusedon his activities from the previousdecade. Falcó was a big supporter ofthe concept of estate wines in Spainand, from the start, worked with bothnative varieties such as Tempranillo andinternational ones such as CabernetSauvignon and Petit Verdot. Over theyears, the wines from his main winery,Dominio de Valdepusa, have secured awell-deserved place in the internationalmarket.

Rosés, Rosados: The Very Pink ofCourtesySpain Gourmetour No. 23, 2nd quarter1991Author: John Radford

Rosés, the “midway” wines that arerarely in the spotlight, have played avery important role among Spanishwines. In No. 23, SGT traveled roundthe different producer areas such asValencia, La Mancha, Catalonia,Castile-Leon, Aragón and, of course,Navarre, reviewing the different grapesused. Other SGT articles featuringrosés were “Pink Parade” (No. 47,1999) and “In the Pink: Rosès” (No.61, 2004). These indicated the largenumber and the diversity of rosé winesin Spain.

S G T 1 9 9 0 S G T 1 9 9 1

02-Vino de España IN.qxd 14/7/07 14:30 Página 26 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

25años AF.qxd 12/7/07 08:44 Página 28

28 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 29

25 YEARS

COLORS

Not just red winesLongevity is the key word for thenew challenge facing the majorSpanish wineries, that of whitewines. The process has been similarto that of the reds, but with thedifference that the virtues of certainnative varieties were discovered earlyon, but progress was only achievedvery recently.As with reds, the emphasis onforeign varieties left a small numberof magnificent, long-life whites, mostof them varietals (ChardonnayChivite Colección, Milmanda, Enate,Castillo de Monjardín, Jean León andothers), but also some blends(Clarión, by Bodegas Viñas del Vero).But the discovery of the localvarieties such as Albariño, Verdejo,Godello, Xarel·lo and others for along time went no further thansuccessful young wines. Clearexamples are the Castilian Verdejoand the Galician Albariño wines,which taught the Spaniards to spend1,000 pesetas (the equivalent of sixeuros) on a bottle of white when anaged Rioja red cost half the price.The fact is that the presence offoreign varieties is a longstandingtradition in Spain. They were said toexist in 19th-century Rioja, when theFrench merchants were travelingaround the main wine-producingregions in Spain. The Raventósfamily’s archives, the creators of cavawith their Codorníu, record theplanting of Chardonnay in the1920s, when the Great War haddevastated the area of Champagne

records, but there was room left forwines from other places and newstars appeared such as Montsant,Toro, Cigales, Jumilla, Campo deBorja and, more recently, Bierzo, aswell as a whole series of vinos de latierra, produced on the La Manchaplain.

New century,new styleThe 21st century came along with allthese new names, especially in theleading new area, Bierzo, whichgained impetus with the arrival ofÁlvaro Palacios, the creator of FincaDolí and L’Ermita. New life came tothe center of Spain (Méntrida, Vinosde Madrid, La Mancha, Manchuela,the new Ribera del Júcar and Uclésdesignations of origin and the firstestate DOs) with the consolidation ofthe districts along the easternMediterranean coast and in theBalearics, and the Andalusian redsmade their appearance.There was also another change ofstyle for the Spanish red wines. Thetannic harshness of the pebbly wineshad had their critics, but now thesame started to happen with thejammy wines that were accused,strange though it may seem, as beingwines for tasting rather than fordrinking, as if good wine could onlyappear either on the table or intasting sessions and not in both. Thefact is that the good wines with bodyand color had gone a little too far.The sins committed at the turn ofthe century, not to mention some

crazy pricing, were over-maturationand over-extraction. Things weretaken to extremes, resulting in pastywines and undesirable vegetaltannins.The answer came soon after withelegant wines, the current trend. Itwas not a question of going back tothe past but rather consolidating pastsuccesses and creating more fluid,more courageous wines. Today’s new,leading reds are the result of greaterknowledge of all the processesinvolved, from the terruño conceptstill valid today to the wood used foraging. After learning internationally,today’s Spanish enologists havecontinued progressing and now haveplenty to offer others. Increasingnumbers of specialists from aroundthe world now come to learn inleading Spanish wineries.The new reds have now lost theirobsession for intensity of color butcolors are still bright and the newtechniques are giving rise to morestable tones. Harvesting is beingbrought forward slightly to preventover-ripening and to limit alcoholcontent. Experiments with barrelwood have not always been 100%successful, but in general the aim isto conserve the character of thevariety of wine as well as its terruño.Maceration periods are no longerbeing prolonged, thus avoiding thevegetal touches caused by over-extraction and more fluid, morebalanced, elegant wines are beingobtained, wines that are excellent forimmediate drinking and improvewith time.

Galician Wine: The Great WhiteHopeSpain Gourmetour No. 26, 1st quarter1992Author: Víctor Rodríguez

If white wines could be said to have ahomeland, it would probably beGalicia. Monterrei, Valdeorras, Ribeiro,Ribera Sacra and Rías Baixas are theDOs that make up this enologicalmap. SGT reported on the transitionfrom bulk wines to the sale of bottledwines, on the basis of a wide range ofnative grapes, especially Albariño,Godello and Treixadura. The DOs werethe subject of “Which Way at theCrossroads? Rías Baixas” (SGT No.60, 2004), and the local varietiesfeatured in “Albariño Grapes: TheEssence of the Galician Rías Baixas”(SGT No. 12, 1988).

The Wines of El Bierzo: Brands forthe FutureSpain Gourmetour No. 28, 4th quarter1992Author: Víctor Rodríguez

In the early 1990s, SGT recounted thepromise of the El Bierzo wines. Withnative grapes such as Mencía, thisregion achieved DO status in 1989and has since become consolidatednot only as a top-ranking producerbut, more importantly, as one with itsown unique style. The increase in newDOs that were small in size but hadgreat personality was documented inSGT articles such as “Aragón Wines”(No. 19, 1990) and the series on the“Wine Rivers: Duero” (No. 38, 1996),“Ebro” (No. 39, 1996), “Miño and Sil”(No. 40, 1996).

Barrel Fermented White Wines:Wood WorksSpain Gourmetour No. 36, 2nd quarter1995Author: Andrés Proensa

A full account of the explosion ofbarrel-fermented white wines wasgiven in No. 36 of SGT. Although thistechnique had been present in Spainfor 20 years, it was only in the mid-1990s that it really blossomed. Theauthor of this article explored its use indifferent regions of Spain, from thepioneer, Penedès, to the Canaries,and including Rioja and Navarre.

S G T 1 9 9 2

S G T 1 9 9 2 / 1 9 9 5

there was a drop in wineconsumption, the new generations ofconsumers were happy to try newbrands, new wineries and newproduction areas. Rioja remained inthe lead and broke all of its sales

02-Vino de España IN.qxd 14/7/07 14:32 Página 28 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

25años AF.qxd 12/7/07 08:44 Página 28

28 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 29

25 YEARS

COLORS

Not just red winesLongevity is the key word for thenew challenge facing the majorSpanish wineries, that of whitewines. The process has been similarto that of the reds, but with thedifference that the virtues of certainnative varieties were discovered earlyon, but progress was only achievedvery recently.As with reds, the emphasis onforeign varieties left a small numberof magnificent, long-life whites, mostof them varietals (ChardonnayChivite Colección, Milmanda, Enate,Castillo de Monjardín, Jean León andothers), but also some blends(Clarión, by Bodegas Viñas del Vero).But the discovery of the localvarieties such as Albariño, Verdejo,Godello, Xarel·lo and others for along time went no further thansuccessful young wines. Clearexamples are the Castilian Verdejoand the Galician Albariño wines,which taught the Spaniards to spend1,000 pesetas (the equivalent of sixeuros) on a bottle of white when anaged Rioja red cost half the price.The fact is that the presence offoreign varieties is a longstandingtradition in Spain. They were said toexist in 19th-century Rioja, when theFrench merchants were travelingaround the main wine-producingregions in Spain. The Raventósfamily’s archives, the creators of cavawith their Codorníu, record theplanting of Chardonnay in the1920s, when the Great War haddevastated the area of Champagne

records, but there was room left forwines from other places and newstars appeared such as Montsant,Toro, Cigales, Jumilla, Campo deBorja and, more recently, Bierzo, aswell as a whole series of vinos de latierra, produced on the La Manchaplain.

New century,new styleThe 21st century came along with allthese new names, especially in theleading new area, Bierzo, whichgained impetus with the arrival ofÁlvaro Palacios, the creator of FincaDolí and L’Ermita. New life came tothe center of Spain (Méntrida, Vinosde Madrid, La Mancha, Manchuela,the new Ribera del Júcar and Uclésdesignations of origin and the firstestate DOs) with the consolidation ofthe districts along the easternMediterranean coast and in theBalearics, and the Andalusian redsmade their appearance.There was also another change ofstyle for the Spanish red wines. Thetannic harshness of the pebbly wineshad had their critics, but now thesame started to happen with thejammy wines that were accused,strange though it may seem, as beingwines for tasting rather than fordrinking, as if good wine could onlyappear either on the table or intasting sessions and not in both. Thefact is that the good wines with bodyand color had gone a little too far.The sins committed at the turn ofthe century, not to mention some

crazy pricing, were over-maturationand over-extraction. Things weretaken to extremes, resulting in pastywines and undesirable vegetaltannins.The answer came soon after withelegant wines, the current trend. Itwas not a question of going back tothe past but rather consolidating pastsuccesses and creating more fluid,more courageous wines. Today’s new,leading reds are the result of greaterknowledge of all the processesinvolved, from the terruño conceptstill valid today to the wood used foraging. After learning internationally,today’s Spanish enologists havecontinued progressing and now haveplenty to offer others. Increasingnumbers of specialists from aroundthe world now come to learn inleading Spanish wineries.The new reds have now lost theirobsession for intensity of color butcolors are still bright and the newtechniques are giving rise to morestable tones. Harvesting is beingbrought forward slightly to preventover-ripening and to limit alcoholcontent. Experiments with barrelwood have not always been 100%successful, but in general the aim isto conserve the character of thevariety of wine as well as its terruño.Maceration periods are no longerbeing prolonged, thus avoiding thevegetal touches caused by over-extraction and more fluid, morebalanced, elegant wines are beingobtained, wines that are excellent forimmediate drinking and improvewith time.

Galician Wine: The Great WhiteHopeSpain Gourmetour No. 26, 1st quarter1992Author: Víctor Rodríguez

If white wines could be said to have ahomeland, it would probably beGalicia. Monterrei, Valdeorras, Ribeiro,Ribera Sacra and Rías Baixas are theDOs that make up this enologicalmap. SGT reported on the transitionfrom bulk wines to the sale of bottledwines, on the basis of a wide range ofnative grapes, especially Albariño,Godello and Treixadura. The DOs werethe subject of “Which Way at theCrossroads? Rías Baixas” (SGT No.60, 2004), and the local varietiesfeatured in “Albariño Grapes: TheEssence of the Galician Rías Baixas”(SGT No. 12, 1988).

The Wines of El Bierzo: Brands forthe FutureSpain Gourmetour No. 28, 4th quarter1992Author: Víctor Rodríguez

In the early 1990s, SGT recounted thepromise of the El Bierzo wines. Withnative grapes such as Mencía, thisregion achieved DO status in 1989and has since become consolidatednot only as a top-ranking producerbut, more importantly, as one with itsown unique style. The increase in newDOs that were small in size but hadgreat personality was documented inSGT articles such as “Aragón Wines”(No. 19, 1990) and the series on the“Wine Rivers: Duero” (No. 38, 1996),“Ebro” (No. 39, 1996), “Miño and Sil”(No. 40, 1996).

Barrel Fermented White Wines:Wood WorksSpain Gourmetour No. 36, 2nd quarter1995Author: Andrés Proensa

A full account of the explosion ofbarrel-fermented white wines wasgiven in No. 36 of SGT. Although thistechnique had been present in Spainfor 20 years, it was only in the mid-1990s that it really blossomed. Theauthor of this article explored its use indifferent regions of Spain, from thepioneer, Penedès, to the Canaries,and including Rioja and Navarre.

S G T 1 9 9 2

S G T 1 9 9 2 / 1 9 9 5

there was a drop in wineconsumption, the new generations ofconsumers were happy to try newbrands, new wineries and newproduction areas. Rioja remained inthe lead and broke all of its sales

02-Vino de España IN.qxd 14/7/07 14:32 Página 28 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

25años AF.qxd 12/7/07 08:45 Página 30

30 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 31

25 YEARS

COLORS

25 YEARS

COLORS

that are renowned as being best todrink in the short term. Rosés havehad a fluctuating history over the last25 years. In the early 1980s, therewere areas that specialized in the

production of rosés, a type of winethat was directly associated with thename Navarre and the Garnachavariety. There were other areas, such

Rías Baixas, the homeland ofAlbariño, or for the traditionalGalician wine-producing area, DORibeiro. The champions are wines byGutián or the new, exceptional AsSortes, by Rafael Palacios.The battle of the whites eveninvolved the traditional varieties thatwere previously considered as beingof use only for distillation or aging inthe wood, such as the classic ViuraRioja whites. But the new techniquesare achieving unimaginable resultsfrom previously unexploited varietiessuch as Viura (in Rioja fermented inthe barrel) and even Airén, from LaMancha, with some surprising wines(Ercavio, Finca Antigua). And othersare being tried out: Garnacha Blancain parts of Catalonia (complementedwith classic stocks from the Rhônedistrict, especially Viognier),Xarel·lo, Catalonia’s emblematicwhite grape, Merseguera from theeast coast and the rare Picapoll frominland Catalonia.There is still a long way to go forwhites, but the ball is rolling. Thesame can be said for sparkling wines,with cava being the undisputedleader and still growing. As withwhites, work on cavas focuses ontwo aspects–first enhancing thepersonality of the product and thebrand, then obtaining cavas thatkeep well in the bottle.

The world’s bestrosésThis enthusiasm to produce wines tolast was even noted in rosés, wines

and emptied its cellars, leavingFrench sparkling wine to beproduced in Spanish wineries.Evidence documenting this hangsfrom the walls of Bodegas Bilbaínasin Haro (La Rioja).Thus, with Chardonnay or nativevarieties, separately or in blends, thetime came in recent years for therenovation of white wines. Generallyspeaking, those from foreignvarieties in the most significant areassuch as Somontano, Penedès orNavarre, now one of the Spanishenclaves for Chardonnay, maintain astyle similar to that of theircounterparts in the New World,although finer, more profound winesare being sought and achieved. Atthe same time new preparations arebeing explored for wines made fromthe most prestigious local grapes inorder to promote two or three-year-old wines to complement, or replace,the young, year-old wines.Barrel fermentation followed byaging on the lees is a 40-yeartradition in Spain, (this was thesystem used by Jean León for hiswhite Chardonnay), but othermethods that are less aggressive forwine are being tried out, such asproduction in large-capacity oak

cones, maturation in steel tanks withthe lees or the use of new woods(cherry, acacia–there is already awine aged in acacia, a GuiliánGodello varietal). There is a wholegeneration of great, new wines fromRías Baixas, with wood (Veigadaresand Gran Veigadares, Organistrum,Condes de Albarei, 1583 Albariño deFefiñanes, barrel-fermented Fillaboa)or aged in the tank (Pazo deSeñoráns. Albariño de Fefiñanes IIIAño, San Amaro, Fillaboa MonteAlto, Finca de Arantei).

The challenge oflongevityThe search is also on for wines thatwill last in the bottle, like someAlbariños and some of the newRibeiro wines, or the Godello wines,as they are the new stars on theGalician viticultural scene. This is avariety that was rescued in the 1970sfrom a few stocks growinghaphazardly around the DOValdeorras, in inland Galicia. It isone of the most promising districtsfor the production of whites inrecent years, to the extent that it nowrepresents serious competition for

Winemakers at Work: Interchangeof Technology in Spain and AbroadSpain Gourmetour No. 47, 1st quarter1999Author: Jeremy Watson

SGT gave an overview of the mostrelevant and innovative winemakers atthe time, both new arrivals such asPeter Sissek, Telmo Rodríguez andFernando Chivite and the widely-acclaimed Miguel Torres and CarlosFalcó. The article also focused on thephenomenon of the traveling winespecialists, led by the Australian NickButler, and the adoption of newtechnologies such as controlled-temperature fermentation.

Miguel Torres: Wine DiplomatSpain Gourmetour No. 49, 3rd quarter1999Author: Víctor Rodríguez

Miguel Torres figured in the third of theseries “A Lifetime Devoted to Wine”,which also portrayed other greatpersonalities from the wine world suchas Agustí Torelló Mata (SGT No. 48,1999). Under his guidance, thecentenarian Torres winery underwentthorough modernization, following inthe footsteps of other greatwinemakers such as Carlos Falcó.Being free of any particular enologicalbias, Miguel Torres was able tointroduce new varieties and vinificationtechniques. He was also one of thefirst of the Spanish winemakers toinvest abroad. As part of a new serieson the investments made by Spanishwine companies, issue No. 69 (2007)reported on his winery in Chile’sCentral Valley, run by Marimar Torres.

DOCa Rioja: From Classic toCutting EdgeSpain Gourmetour No. 53, 2nd quarter2001Author: Andrés Proensa

The series of articles published in SGTabout Rioja wines, one of Spain’sleading producer regions, closed withthis article published in No. 53. Itdescribed how the DO had developedover the last century and a half in threemain stages. First in the middle of the19th century, then with structuralrenovation in the 1970s and finally,with the “new Riojas” in the 1990s.The last 20 years have seen SGTarticles on the Alava Rioja wines (SGTNo. 7, 1987), the classic wines fromthe Upper Rioja (SGT No. 13, 1988)and the white barrel-fermented Riojas(SGT No. 27, 1992).

S G T 1 9 9 9

S G T 1 9 9 9 / 2 0 0 1

02-Vino de España IN.qxd 14/7/07 14:33 Página 30 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

25años AF.qxd 12/7/07 08:45 Página 30

30 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 31

25 YEARS

COLORS

25 YEARS

COLORS

that are renowned as being best todrink in the short term. Rosés havehad a fluctuating history over the last25 years. In the early 1980s, therewere areas that specialized in the

production of rosés, a type of winethat was directly associated with thename Navarre and the Garnachavariety. There were other areas, such

Rías Baixas, the homeland ofAlbariño, or for the traditionalGalician wine-producing area, DORibeiro. The champions are wines byGutián or the new, exceptional AsSortes, by Rafael Palacios.The battle of the whites eveninvolved the traditional varieties thatwere previously considered as beingof use only for distillation or aging inthe wood, such as the classic ViuraRioja whites. But the new techniquesare achieving unimaginable resultsfrom previously unexploited varietiessuch as Viura (in Rioja fermented inthe barrel) and even Airén, from LaMancha, with some surprising wines(Ercavio, Finca Antigua). And othersare being tried out: Garnacha Blancain parts of Catalonia (complementedwith classic stocks from the Rhônedistrict, especially Viognier),Xarel·lo, Catalonia’s emblematicwhite grape, Merseguera from theeast coast and the rare Picapoll frominland Catalonia.There is still a long way to go forwhites, but the ball is rolling. Thesame can be said for sparkling wines,with cava being the undisputedleader and still growing. As withwhites, work on cavas focuses ontwo aspects–first enhancing thepersonality of the product and thebrand, then obtaining cavas thatkeep well in the bottle.

The world’s bestrosésThis enthusiasm to produce wines tolast was even noted in rosés, wines

and emptied its cellars, leavingFrench sparkling wine to beproduced in Spanish wineries.Evidence documenting this hangsfrom the walls of Bodegas Bilbaínasin Haro (La Rioja).Thus, with Chardonnay or nativevarieties, separately or in blends, thetime came in recent years for therenovation of white wines. Generallyspeaking, those from foreignvarieties in the most significant areassuch as Somontano, Penedès orNavarre, now one of the Spanishenclaves for Chardonnay, maintain astyle similar to that of theircounterparts in the New World,although finer, more profound winesare being sought and achieved. Atthe same time new preparations arebeing explored for wines made fromthe most prestigious local grapes inorder to promote two or three-year-old wines to complement, or replace,the young, year-old wines.Barrel fermentation followed byaging on the lees is a 40-yeartradition in Spain, (this was thesystem used by Jean León for hiswhite Chardonnay), but othermethods that are less aggressive forwine are being tried out, such asproduction in large-capacity oak

cones, maturation in steel tanks withthe lees or the use of new woods(cherry, acacia–there is already awine aged in acacia, a GuiliánGodello varietal). There is a wholegeneration of great, new wines fromRías Baixas, with wood (Veigadaresand Gran Veigadares, Organistrum,Condes de Albarei, 1583 Albariño deFefiñanes, barrel-fermented Fillaboa)or aged in the tank (Pazo deSeñoráns. Albariño de Fefiñanes IIIAño, San Amaro, Fillaboa MonteAlto, Finca de Arantei).

The challenge oflongevityThe search is also on for wines thatwill last in the bottle, like someAlbariños and some of the newRibeiro wines, or the Godello wines,as they are the new stars on theGalician viticultural scene. This is avariety that was rescued in the 1970sfrom a few stocks growinghaphazardly around the DOValdeorras, in inland Galicia. It isone of the most promising districtsfor the production of whites inrecent years, to the extent that it nowrepresents serious competition for

Winemakers at Work: Interchangeof Technology in Spain and AbroadSpain Gourmetour No. 47, 1st quarter1999Author: Jeremy Watson

SGT gave an overview of the mostrelevant and innovative winemakers atthe time, both new arrivals such asPeter Sissek, Telmo Rodríguez andFernando Chivite and the widely-acclaimed Miguel Torres and CarlosFalcó. The article also focused on thephenomenon of the traveling winespecialists, led by the Australian NickButler, and the adoption of newtechnologies such as controlled-temperature fermentation.

Miguel Torres: Wine DiplomatSpain Gourmetour No. 49, 3rd quarter1999Author: Víctor Rodríguez

Miguel Torres figured in the third of theseries “A Lifetime Devoted to Wine”,which also portrayed other greatpersonalities from the wine world suchas Agustí Torelló Mata (SGT No. 48,1999). Under his guidance, thecentenarian Torres winery underwentthorough modernization, following inthe footsteps of other greatwinemakers such as Carlos Falcó.Being free of any particular enologicalbias, Miguel Torres was able tointroduce new varieties and vinificationtechniques. He was also one of thefirst of the Spanish winemakers toinvest abroad. As part of a new serieson the investments made by Spanishwine companies, issue No. 69 (2007)reported on his winery in Chile’sCentral Valley, run by Marimar Torres.

DOCa Rioja: From Classic toCutting EdgeSpain Gourmetour No. 53, 2nd quarter2001Author: Andrés Proensa

The series of articles published in SGTabout Rioja wines, one of Spain’sleading producer regions, closed withthis article published in No. 53. Itdescribed how the DO had developedover the last century and a half in threemain stages. First in the middle of the19th century, then with structuralrenovation in the 1970s and finally,with the “new Riojas” in the 1990s.The last 20 years have seen SGTarticles on the Alava Rioja wines (SGTNo. 7, 1987), the classic wines fromthe Upper Rioja (SGT No. 13, 1988)and the white barrel-fermented Riojas(SGT No. 27, 1992).

S G T 1 9 9 9

S G T 1 9 9 9 / 2 0 0 1

02-Vino de España IN.qxd 14/7/07 14:33 Página 30 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

25años AF.qxd 12/7/07 08:45 Página 32

32 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 33

25 YEARS

COLORS

25 YEARS

COLORS

Fortified winesThe positive vibes of modernity areeven reaching the most traditionalsegment: that of fortified aperitif anddessert wines. In the case of thelegendary wines from Jerez, Málagaand Montilla-Moriles, where littlecan be added to their greatness,special emphasis is placed on theessence that comes from the veryold, treasured wines in old casks.The creation in 2001 of the newcategories VOS and VORS, for wineswith an average age of 20 and 30years respectively, has revitalized adeclining sector and brought to lightsome real jewels. The finos andmanzanillas have been slightlylightened, placing them on par withwhite wines for serving at the table,so that they are no longer servedexclusively as aperitif wines andtheir position in internationalmarkets is ensured.A special mention should be made ofdessert wines, a sector that iscurrently increasingly in popularitythe world over and in which Spainhas some great wines to offer. Thelist begins with the dark wines, oldwines made from raisins, fromMuscatel and especially from PedroXiménez. These are classic, densewines that often feature on themenus of avant-garde restaurants. Atthe other extreme are the young,pale, fresh wines made fromMuscatel and other varieties using allthe techniques in vogue, from lateharvesting (which for many parts of

Spain means that the grapes are stillon the plant in September) to icewines and the recovery of old stylessuch as toasty wines from Ribeiro,traditionally made from grapes thathave been dried in the attics ofhomes. Today this process takesplace in the winery or in specially-built drying chambers.Throughout Spain, winemakers aretrying out new approaches, adoptingnew trends and building a futurethat fascinates with its constantevolution and enhancement. Butmost important of all is that oldcomplexes are fading fast. Today yourarely hear a Spanish enologist speakof emulating the Bordeaux,Borgogne, Rhône or Californianwines. Now they talk of the terruño,optimization of quality and bringingout the personality of each of theregions, districts and soils, as well asthe personal contribution made byeach producer. And this is thephilosophy behind a splendid futurefor Spanish wine.

Andrés Proensa is a wine writer,director of the magazine PlanetaVinoand author of the Guía Proensa.

specific batches of grapes (fromyoung vines, from plots in coolerareas, from high-yielding vines),their quality improves and this is thepractice followed today by producersof the best Spanish rosés. There isalso another quality rosé that ismade from the wine drained out ofred wine tanks in order to raise theproportion of skins to must andobtain more concentrated reds.Altogether, the end result is a veryattractive range of rosés, from theclassic, light salmon-colored onessuch as the Riojas from the “rosétriangle”–San Asensio, Cordovín andBadarán in the Ureña valley in theUpper Rioja–to the modern rosés invarious tones of strawberry. Thissegment is receiving a lot ofcommercial attention, especially inthe markets along the Spanish coastsand in countries such as GreatBritain and the United States.

and the catalogue of good rosésexpanded to include names such asPenedès, Utiel-Requena, Valencia,Jumilla and others, even Rioja. Manyof them used grapes from oldvineyards that later were fully takenup for the production of reds. Butthe grapes were good and the wineswere made carefully, sparking arevolution among rosés and givingrise to some of the world’s best.But their virtues of fruitiness,freshness and drinkability were lostafter about one year. So formulae tocounter this decline were sought,including barrel aging, although fora shorter time than for the classicRioja or Cigales rosés. The bestresults seem to be obtained bystaggering placement of the differentbatches on the market and keepingthe wine motionless until it is to bebottled for sale.Rosés were also affected by therenovation of vineyards and by theimpetus of the reds, but the resultwas not always positive. The grapesfor many of the new plantationswere used for rosé while waiting forthe plant to become sufficientlymature to be used for reds. This gaverise to fresh rosés and led to the useof new varieties resulting in luxuryproducts such as rosés from Merlot,Syrah and Petit Verdot. But thegrapes used were often consideredsecond best and, like elsewhere inthe world, good rosés tend to bescarce because the grapes are notgrown specifically for rosé wine.When rosé wines are made from

Álvaro Palacios: Back to the FutureSpain Gourmetour No. 62, 3rd quarter2004Author: Luis Cepeda

In 2004, for its series Big Names inWine, SGT interviewed AlvaroPalacios, one of the architects of thePriorato miracle and the man behindClos Dofí and Les Terrases. After hisexperience in Priorato, this youngenologist turned to El Bierzo and thisnew adventure led to the San Martín,Las Lamas, Moncerval and LaFaraona wines, mostly made fromnative varieties such as Garnacha,Mencía and Tempranillo.

Spain: A Garden of Grape VarietiesSpain Gourmetour No. 67, 2nd quarter2006Author: Andrés Proensa

SGT devoted its feature article to anambitious tour around the many nativeSpanish varieties: Cariñena, Mencía,Monastrell, Prieto Picudo, Tempranillo,Garnacha, Airén, Albariño, etc., a longlist of traditional varieties that havehelped give Spanish wines a markedpersonality and have adapted well tothe new processing techniques. Manyof these grapes had already featuredin monographic articles, such asGodello (SGT No. 41, 1997), Graciano(SGT No. 42, 1997), Viura/Macabeo(SGT No. 43, 1997) and Palomino Fino(SGT No. 35, 1995).

S G T 2 0 0 4 / 2 0 0 6

as Castile-Leon, where rosé receivedthe traditional name clarete, just likethose from Cigales from the easternpart of Ribera del Duero, in theprovinces of Burgos and Soria, andin other districts such as Páramo deLéón (today home to the DOs Valles

de Benavente and Tierra de León),and the current quality wine-producing area of Ribera del Arlanza.With the technologicalimprovements in wineries, rosésjoined the group of young wines thatwere pushing forward in the eighties,

02-Vino de España IN.qxd 14/7/07 14:34 Página 32 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

25años AF.qxd 12/7/07 08:45 Página 32

32 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 33

25 YEARS

COLORS

25 YEARS

COLORS

Fortified winesThe positive vibes of modernity areeven reaching the most traditionalsegment: that of fortified aperitif anddessert wines. In the case of thelegendary wines from Jerez, Málagaand Montilla-Moriles, where littlecan be added to their greatness,special emphasis is placed on theessence that comes from the veryold, treasured wines in old casks.The creation in 2001 of the newcategories VOS and VORS, for wineswith an average age of 20 and 30years respectively, has revitalized adeclining sector and brought to lightsome real jewels. The finos andmanzanillas have been slightlylightened, placing them on par withwhite wines for serving at the table,so that they are no longer servedexclusively as aperitif wines andtheir position in internationalmarkets is ensured.A special mention should be made ofdessert wines, a sector that iscurrently increasingly in popularitythe world over and in which Spainhas some great wines to offer. Thelist begins with the dark wines, oldwines made from raisins, fromMuscatel and especially from PedroXiménez. These are classic, densewines that often feature on themenus of avant-garde restaurants. Atthe other extreme are the young,pale, fresh wines made fromMuscatel and other varieties using allthe techniques in vogue, from lateharvesting (which for many parts of

Spain means that the grapes are stillon the plant in September) to icewines and the recovery of old stylessuch as toasty wines from Ribeiro,traditionally made from grapes thathave been dried in the attics ofhomes. Today this process takesplace in the winery or in specially-built drying chambers.Throughout Spain, winemakers aretrying out new approaches, adoptingnew trends and building a futurethat fascinates with its constantevolution and enhancement. Butmost important of all is that oldcomplexes are fading fast. Today yourarely hear a Spanish enologist speakof emulating the Bordeaux,Borgogne, Rhône or Californianwines. Now they talk of the terruño,optimization of quality and bringingout the personality of each of theregions, districts and soils, as well asthe personal contribution made byeach producer. And this is thephilosophy behind a splendid futurefor Spanish wine.

Andrés Proensa is a wine writer,director of the magazine PlanetaVinoand author of the Guía Proensa.

specific batches of grapes (fromyoung vines, from plots in coolerareas, from high-yielding vines),their quality improves and this is thepractice followed today by producersof the best Spanish rosés. There isalso another quality rosé that ismade from the wine drained out ofred wine tanks in order to raise theproportion of skins to must andobtain more concentrated reds.Altogether, the end result is a veryattractive range of rosés, from theclassic, light salmon-colored onessuch as the Riojas from the “rosétriangle”–San Asensio, Cordovín andBadarán in the Ureña valley in theUpper Rioja–to the modern rosés invarious tones of strawberry. Thissegment is receiving a lot ofcommercial attention, especially inthe markets along the Spanish coastsand in countries such as GreatBritain and the United States.

and the catalogue of good rosésexpanded to include names such asPenedès, Utiel-Requena, Valencia,Jumilla and others, even Rioja. Manyof them used grapes from oldvineyards that later were fully takenup for the production of reds. Butthe grapes were good and the wineswere made carefully, sparking arevolution among rosés and givingrise to some of the world’s best.But their virtues of fruitiness,freshness and drinkability were lostafter about one year. So formulae tocounter this decline were sought,including barrel aging, although fora shorter time than for the classicRioja or Cigales rosés. The bestresults seem to be obtained bystaggering placement of the differentbatches on the market and keepingthe wine motionless until it is to bebottled for sale.Rosés were also affected by therenovation of vineyards and by theimpetus of the reds, but the resultwas not always positive. The grapesfor many of the new plantationswere used for rosé while waiting forthe plant to become sufficientlymature to be used for reds. This gaverise to fresh rosés and led to the useof new varieties resulting in luxuryproducts such as rosés from Merlot,Syrah and Petit Verdot. But thegrapes used were often consideredsecond best and, like elsewhere inthe world, good rosés tend to bescarce because the grapes are notgrown specifically for rosé wine.When rosé wines are made from

Álvaro Palacios: Back to the FutureSpain Gourmetour No. 62, 3rd quarter2004Author: Luis Cepeda

In 2004, for its series Big Names inWine, SGT interviewed AlvaroPalacios, one of the architects of thePriorato miracle and the man behindClos Dofí and Les Terrases. After hisexperience in Priorato, this youngenologist turned to El Bierzo and thisnew adventure led to the San Martín,Las Lamas, Moncerval and LaFaraona wines, mostly made fromnative varieties such as Garnacha,Mencía and Tempranillo.

Spain: A Garden of Grape VarietiesSpain Gourmetour No. 67, 2nd quarter2006Author: Andrés Proensa

SGT devoted its feature article to anambitious tour around the many nativeSpanish varieties: Cariñena, Mencía,Monastrell, Prieto Picudo, Tempranillo,Garnacha, Airén, Albariño, etc., a longlist of traditional varieties that havehelped give Spanish wines a markedpersonality and have adapted well tothe new processing techniques. Manyof these grapes had already featuredin monographic articles, such asGodello (SGT No. 41, 1997), Graciano(SGT No. 42, 1997), Viura/Macabeo(SGT No. 43, 1997) and Palomino Fino(SGT No. 35, 1995).

S G T 2 0 0 4 / 2 0 0 6

as Castile-Leon, where rosé receivedthe traditional name clarete, just likethose from Cigales from the easternpart of Ribera del Duero, in theprovinces of Burgos and Soria, andin other districts such as Páramo deLéón (today home to the DOs Valles

de Benavente and Tierra de León),and the current quality wine-producing area of Ribera del Arlanza.With the technologicalimprovements in wineries, rosésjoined the group of young wines thatwere pushing forward in the eighties,

02-Vino de España IN.qxd 14/7/07 14:34 Página 32 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

34 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 35

25 YEARS

COLORS

Marquis of Griñón and Fernando Chiviteand the new stars on the Spanishviticultural scene–Álvaro Palacios, PeterSisseck, Sara Pérez and TelmoRodríguez–played an essential role inthis change of strategy and collaboratedat all times with Wines from Spain. Proofof this was “Spanish Superstars: TheNext Generation”, an event organizedrecently by WFS in New York whichRené Barbier, Jr., María José LópezHeredia, Rafael Palacios and EduardoGarcía attended. Putting a face to thewine has been one of the latestinnovations in the WFS approach.This conceptual change also made itsmark on WFS’s image. In the words ofAngulo, “We felt we should not justchange our message but also ourimage. Previously, our main concern wasthe distinguishing features of eachproducer region, but there was nothingto weave it all together, except for thelogo of the Spanish flag in the shape of abottle. So we signed on with an agencyto study our image in three of our topmarkets and to come up with proposals

for a unified concept. As a result, a newimage and logo were designed, and thechange affected our stands at tradefairs. The reception has been excellent.”Today WFS is concentrating on sixpriority markets: the US, Sweden,Switzerland, the UK, Germany and theNetherlands, as well as another 19,including Japan, Canada, Mexico,Russia and Ireland. This year one of themain actions has been to create acommittee to promote agri-food in theAsian market, with of all the regions ofSpain joining forces for the Year of Spainin China.Everything indicates that Spain will soonbe on the crest of the wave. The focuson international markets’ growingconditions and native varieties gives it ahead start. “Most Spanish wineries usenative varieties, an advantage that othercountries don’t have and one that isbeing promoted by ICEX. But we’re alsoup there, competing at the highest levelwith wines made from internationalvarieties, such as those from the NewWorld. That’s why this is a good time for

Spain,” says Angulo. She adds, “Bycelebrating the WFS’s birthday, we‘rerecognizing the efforts made by thewineries and the DO Regulating Councilsto reach today’s high quality levels.”After reviewing the past 25 years,Angulo looks into her crystal ball. “Thewineries have made, and are making,large investments in the future and arebecoming consolidated in the qualitysegments in the main consumermarkets. Their export departments areincreasingly staffed by young, well-trained people who are setting up newprojects or new businesses to sell qualitywines. We have great faith in our futurein the medium and long term and trustthat consumers in other countries willappreciate everything that Spanishwines have to offer.”

Wines from Spain (WFS) is celebratingits 25th anniversary. Set up in 1982 topromote Spanish wines abroad, its pathhas run in parallel with Spanish wines,often meeting up with them on the way.After its close contact with the sectorover the years–gauging its needs anddevising strategies to meet them–WFShas become a living chronicle of itsdevelopment. Throughout this period, ithas been the public face of the WinesDepartment of the Spanish Institute forForeign Trade (ICEX) and of Spain’sEconomic and Commercial Offices inother countries.There have been two main periods in thehistory of WFS. The initial efforts focusedon setting up promotion centers, startingout with the first branch of WFS in theUnited Kingdom. This was followed bythe US, Germany and the Netherlands.The strategy was to promote the imageof Spanish wines through the Spanishdesignations of origin. “Originally,” saysRosa Angulo, head of ICEX’s winedepartment, “the policy was to worksector by sector. We negotiated with the

regulating councils that were keen tointernationalize their businesses andhelped them draw up their marketingplans.” At the time, Europe saw the DOsfrom a geographical point of view, andthe giants in the New World had not yetraised their heads. This made it relativelyeasy to publicize the virtues of Navarreand Rioja wines and sherries. But, by2001, it was clear that a new approachwas needed. “The multiplication of DOsto the point when there was more than60 of them, of which about 17 werebeing promoted abroad by ICEX, andthe consequent overlapping ofmessages to consumers and, above all,the arrival on the market of the NewWorld wines with their simple butefficient marketing models meant wehad to change our way of thinking,” saysAngulo. “And the result was the newGeneral Plan for Wines from Spain.”So, from the promotion of specificdesignations of origin, the move wasmade towards the idea of Spanish winesas being synonymous with quality and

variety, whatever their place of origin.This general plan was applied initially inSweden, the UK and Japan, and soonproved to be effective. “Right from thestart, we felt we had to work hand inhand with the sector, so we set up theConsultancy Group for the Promotion ofWines from Spain. This has 15 or 16members representing the interests ofthe whole sector, from small wineriesand large groups to regulating councilsand cooperatives.” In addition to carefulselection of the participants, every effortwas made to design programs andactivities that would meet companies’needs, always with an emphasis ontraining. The exporters soon noted theadvantages of this strategy whichinvolved working with quality wineproducers to transmit the image ofSpain as a pioneering country in thewine market. “The better the image ofthe companies, the greater the pulleffect for the rest of the sector,” explainsAngulo. Both traditionalwinemakers–Mariano García, the

W I N E S F R O M S P A I N :G R A N R E S E R V A 8 2

02-Vino de España IN.qxd 19/7/07 14:00 Página 34

25años AF.qxd 12/7/07 08:46 Página 34

34 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 35

25 YEARS

COLORS

Marquis of Griñón and Fernando Chiviteand the new stars on the Spanishviticultural scene–Álvaro Palacios, PeterSisseck, Sara Pérez and TelmoRodríguez–played an essential role inthis change of strategy and collaboratedat all times with Wines from Spain. Proofof this was “Spanish Superstars: TheNext Generation”, an event organizedrecently by WFS in New York whichRené Barbier, Jr., María José LópezHeredia, Rafael Palacios and EduardoGarcía attended. Putting a face to thewine has been one of the latestinnovations in the WFS approach.This conceptual change also made itsmark on WFS’s image. In the words ofAngulo, “We felt we should not justchange our message but also ourimage. Previously, our main concern wasthe distinguishing features of eachproducer region, but there was nothingto weave it all together, except for thelogo of the Spanish flag in the shape of abottle. So we signed on with an agencyto study our image in three of our topmarkets and to come up with proposals

for a unified concept. As a result, a newimage and logo were designed, and thechange affected our stands at tradefairs. The reception has been excellent.”Today WFS is concentrating on sixpriority markets: the US, Sweden,Switzerland, the UK, Germany and theNetherlands, as well as another 19,including Japan, Canada, Mexico,Russia and Ireland. This year one of themain actions has been to create acommittee to promote agri-food in theAsian market, with of all the regions ofSpain joining forces for the Year of Spainin China.Everything indicates that Spain will soonbe on the crest of the wave. The focuson international markets’ growingconditions and native varieties gives it ahead start. “Most Spanish wineries usenative varieties, an advantage that othercountries don’t have and one that isbeing promoted by ICEX. But we’re alsoup there, competing at the highest levelwith wines made from internationalvarieties, such as those from the NewWorld. That’s why this is a good time for

Spain,” says Angulo. She adds, “Bycelebrating the WFS’s birthday, we‘rerecognizing the efforts made by thewineries and the DO Regulating Councilsto reach today’s high quality levels.”After reviewing the past 25 years,Angulo looks into her crystal ball. “Thewineries have made, and are making,large investments in the future and arebecoming consolidated in the qualitysegments in the main consumermarkets. Their export departments areincreasingly staffed by young, well-trained people who are setting up newprojects or new businesses to sell qualitywines. We have great faith in our futurein the medium and long term and trustthat consumers in other countries willappreciate everything that Spanishwines have to offer.”

Wines from Spain (WFS) is celebratingits 25th anniversary. Set up in 1982 topromote Spanish wines abroad, its pathhas run in parallel with Spanish wines,often meeting up with them on the way.After its close contact with the sectorover the years–gauging its needs anddevising strategies to meet them–WFShas become a living chronicle of itsdevelopment. Throughout this period, ithas been the public face of the WinesDepartment of the Spanish Institute forForeign Trade (ICEX) and of Spain’sEconomic and Commercial Offices inother countries.There have been two main periods in thehistory of WFS. The initial efforts focusedon setting up promotion centers, startingout with the first branch of WFS in theUnited Kingdom. This was followed bythe US, Germany and the Netherlands.The strategy was to promote the imageof Spanish wines through the Spanishdesignations of origin. “Originally,” saysRosa Angulo, head of ICEX’s winedepartment, “the policy was to worksector by sector. We negotiated with the

regulating councils that were keen tointernationalize their businesses andhelped them draw up their marketingplans.” At the time, Europe saw the DOsfrom a geographical point of view, andthe giants in the New World had not yetraised their heads. This made it relativelyeasy to publicize the virtues of Navarreand Rioja wines and sherries. But, by2001, it was clear that a new approachwas needed. “The multiplication of DOsto the point when there was more than60 of them, of which about 17 werebeing promoted abroad by ICEX, andthe consequent overlapping ofmessages to consumers and, above all,the arrival on the market of the NewWorld wines with their simple butefficient marketing models meant wehad to change our way of thinking,” saysAngulo. “And the result was the newGeneral Plan for Wines from Spain.”So, from the promotion of specificdesignations of origin, the move wasmade towards the idea of Spanish winesas being synonymous with quality and

variety, whatever their place of origin.This general plan was applied initially inSweden, the UK and Japan, and soonproved to be effective. “Right from thestart, we felt we had to work hand inhand with the sector, so we set up theConsultancy Group for the Promotion ofWines from Spain. This has 15 or 16members representing the interests ofthe whole sector, from small wineriesand large groups to regulating councilsand cooperatives.” In addition to carefulselection of the participants, every effortwas made to design programs andactivities that would meet companies’needs, always with an emphasis ontraining. The exporters soon noted theadvantages of this strategy whichinvolved working with quality wineproducers to transmit the image ofSpain as a pioneering country in thewine market. “The better the image ofthe companies, the greater the pulleffect for the rest of the sector,” explainsAngulo. Both traditionalwinemakers–Mariano García, the

W I N E S F R O M S P A I N :G R A N R E S E R V A 8 2

02-Vino de España IN.qxd 19/7/07 14:00 Página 34

vega sicilia AF.qxd 11/7/07 23:52 Página 36

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 37

Through a curtain of rain, we followa gravel path leading up to a stonebuilding and a sign in black andwhite with just two words: VegaSicilia. We are shown into a brick,barrel-vaulted hall that answers oneof our questions even before theinterview starts–austere luxury,perhaps a defining characteristic ofthis winery’s philosophy.Pablo Álvarez, the company’s CEO,makes a striking impression, like apowerful animal carefullycalculating its strength. He speakscalmly and his gestures arerestrained, as if bearing the weightof many years of tradition. TheÁlvarez family bought Vega Siciliain 1982 and, one decade later, tookover Oremus (Spain GourmetourNo. 40). The project was to moveoutside Spain, to get involved in theproduction of these legendarywines–a far cry from the classic,Castilian reds–and spark a technicalrevolution. A parallel could bedrawn between the twowineries–both had a history and aname and both were looking

towards the future. “But when weentered Oremus, we had experienceand we knew exactly what wewanted,” says Álvarez, or DonPablo, as he is known here.

In the heart ofTokayTokay, in the northeastern region ofHungary on the river Tisza and itstributary, the Bodrog, was the world’sfirst region to classify its vineyardsby the quality of their wines, 70years before Bordeaux. In fact, theOremus vineyards received thehighest rank, Premier Grand CruClassé. The Spanish winery startedout with 35 ha (86.5 acres) and,gradually overcoming the legalbarriers in terms of the purchase ofvineyards, eventually reached a totalof 120 ha (296.5 acres). “Our plansfor growth are complete, and ourpriority is now to fine-tune our wineproduction.” Things have by nomeans been easy. The company hashad to invest ten million euros, “the

largest investment in this area, Ibelieve,” says Álvarez, and carry outa transition from the outdatedCommunist model to that of amodern, cutting-edge enterprise.“From 1993 to 1996 we were buyingup land and setting up our projectand then, at the end of the decade,we launched a large-scalerenovation. But it’s been a slowprocess. The cellars alone span about4 km (2.5 mi).” It is in thisunderground network, 30 m(98.4 ft) deep in some parts, that theOremus wines age in their own goodtime, and considering thatexcavations started in the 12th

century, it’s no surprise that somechanges were needed. “Most of thework,” continues Álvarez, “has beencarried out since 1998, including theconstruction of the new winery,which opened in 2001.” Partlycarved out of the hillside, it is a 3-storey construction with a tripleselection belt–one strip for each typeof grape. There has been an intensivereplanting of vines in addition towork on improving drainage. But it

The wine-growing region of Tokay, Hungary, boasts world

heritage status, and part of it is, oddly enough, the heritage

of the Vega Sicilia wineries. We are referring to the

centuries-old Oremus vineyards, birthplace of the world’s

oldest and most famous wines–Tokay, a nectar born of the

so-called “noble rot”. Almost 15 years have passed since

the company’s first investment, so the time seems ripe for

a visit to the Vega Sicilia sanctuary on the Castilian Ribera

del Duero plain to take stock of the Álvarez family’s first

international venture.

HUNGARIANR O Y A L T Y

Vega Sicilia

TEXTDAVID CÁNOVAS WILLIAMS

PHOTOSVEGA SICILIA

TRANSLATIONJENNY MCDONALD

03-vega sicilia.qxd 14/7/07 19:51 Página 36 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

vega sicilia AF.qxd 11/7/07 23:52 Página 36

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 37

Through a curtain of rain, we followa gravel path leading up to a stonebuilding and a sign in black andwhite with just two words: VegaSicilia. We are shown into a brick,barrel-vaulted hall that answers oneof our questions even before theinterview starts–austere luxury,perhaps a defining characteristic ofthis winery’s philosophy.Pablo Álvarez, the company’s CEO,makes a striking impression, like apowerful animal carefullycalculating its strength. He speakscalmly and his gestures arerestrained, as if bearing the weightof many years of tradition. TheÁlvarez family bought Vega Siciliain 1982 and, one decade later, tookover Oremus (Spain GourmetourNo. 40). The project was to moveoutside Spain, to get involved in theproduction of these legendarywines–a far cry from the classic,Castilian reds–and spark a technicalrevolution. A parallel could bedrawn between the twowineries–both had a history and aname and both were looking

towards the future. “But when weentered Oremus, we had experienceand we knew exactly what wewanted,” says Álvarez, or DonPablo, as he is known here.

In the heart ofTokayTokay, in the northeastern region ofHungary on the river Tisza and itstributary, the Bodrog, was the world’sfirst region to classify its vineyardsby the quality of their wines, 70years before Bordeaux. In fact, theOremus vineyards received thehighest rank, Premier Grand CruClassé. The Spanish winery startedout with 35 ha (86.5 acres) and,gradually overcoming the legalbarriers in terms of the purchase ofvineyards, eventually reached a totalof 120 ha (296.5 acres). “Our plansfor growth are complete, and ourpriority is now to fine-tune our wineproduction.” Things have by nomeans been easy. The company hashad to invest ten million euros, “the

largest investment in this area, Ibelieve,” says Álvarez, and carry outa transition from the outdatedCommunist model to that of amodern, cutting-edge enterprise.“From 1993 to 1996 we were buyingup land and setting up our projectand then, at the end of the decade,we launched a large-scalerenovation. But it’s been a slowprocess. The cellars alone span about4 km (2.5 mi).” It is in thisunderground network, 30 m(98.4 ft) deep in some parts, that theOremus wines age in their own goodtime, and considering thatexcavations started in the 12th

century, it’s no surprise that somechanges were needed. “Most of thework,” continues Álvarez, “has beencarried out since 1998, including theconstruction of the new winery,which opened in 2001.” Partlycarved out of the hillside, it is a 3-storey construction with a tripleselection belt–one strip for each typeof grape. There has been an intensivereplanting of vines in addition towork on improving drainage. But it

The wine-growing region of Tokay, Hungary, boasts world

heritage status, and part of it is, oddly enough, the heritage

of the Vega Sicilia wineries. We are referring to the

centuries-old Oremus vineyards, birthplace of the world’s

oldest and most famous wines–Tokay, a nectar born of the

so-called “noble rot”. Almost 15 years have passed since

the company’s first investment, so the time seems ripe for

a visit to the Vega Sicilia sanctuary on the Castilian Ribera

del Duero plain to take stock of the Álvarez family’s first

international venture.

HUNGARIANR O Y A L T Y

Vega Sicilia

TEXTDAVID CÁNOVAS WILLIAMS

PHOTOSVEGA SICILIA

TRANSLATIONJENNY MCDONALD

03-vega sicilia.qxd 14/7/07 19:51 Página 36 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

vega sicilia AF.qxd 11/7/07 23:52 Página 38

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 39

is not the case for Sauternes.” Hegoes on to speak with pride of thebalance between sweetness andnatural acidity, and the seductivelightness of the Tokay wines.

Corrupt, rich andtriumphant perfumesAnd now for the secret behind thesefamous Hungarian wines. Thespecial combination of moistureand warmth in this part of Hungaryencourages the growth of Botrytiscinerea, otherwise known as “noblerot”. This mold, which isresponsible for such mythical winesas Château d’Yquem, dries up thegrape, increasing its glycerinecontent and giving rise to thecharacteristic creamy texture of theTokay wines. It also leads to acomplex range of aromas: apricot,quince, honey, tropical fruits, strawand tar, to name but a few. The

botyrized grapes, called aszú inHungarian (meaning withered), areadded to the base wine in varyingproportions, measured by the 20-l(5.3-gal) basket or puttonyos. Thenumber of puttonyos determinesthe type of Tokay wine, from themildest and driest to the top-of-the-pyramid Eszencia, made exclusivelyfrom aszú grapes. In this case, thesugar content is such that the yeastsmay need centuries–literally–tocarry out the necessaryfermentation. “I recently drank aTokay in London with one of ourimporters whose business datesback to the middle of the 17th

century. It was an Eszencia from1874, and it was still drinkable,”says the chairman of Vega Sicilia.Such wonders of nature can onlyhappen in the enigmatic world ofwine, where age and decay becometransformed into beauty andharmony.

Thinning the ranksOver the years, Vega Sicilia has beenworking on creating a distinctiverange of Oremus wines, and thephilosophy of this Valladolid wineryis clear. “The world of wine today ischanging so quickly that it’simpossible to keep up with all thenew products appearing on themarket. I believe in improving thewines that you already produce. Inthe case of Tokay, I think there weretoo many wines,” and he comparesthe process adopted with Oremuswith the policy of limiting theproduct range as followed in Spain.“When we made the decision toeliminate Valbuena 3º in 1987, itwas not because we were bringingout Alión–that’s a different wine, awine in its own right. It was becausewe wanted to focus on two wines,Único and Valbuena.” Today,Oremus comprises six wines. Thefirst is Mandolás, a dry white wine,

38 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

all crystallized in 2003, whenOremus received recognition aswinery of the year in Hungary, anaward granted annually by theHungarian Wine Academy and theFederation of Hungarian Grapes andWine Producers.But in addition to modernization,Vega Sicilia also had to wrestle withoblivion. “It may seem ironic, butwhat was the oldest wine in theworld, at least in terms of itsproduction method, had become agreat unknown. Simply put, duringthe Communist era, the Tokay wines

missed out on half a century, themost important years for wines inEurope. So the main challenge forVega Sicilia is to bring Tokay backonto the international scene.” VegaSicilia has never used the standardadvertising channels for its wines,preferring to be tasted on therecommendations of opinion leaders,with quality being its mostredeeming characteristic. This wasthe method used to sell Oremus, onethat is gradually obtaining thedesired results today. Oremus hasnow made Spain its third largest

market, after Hungary and the US,paving the way for other wineriesfrom the same area. It is also highlyappreciated in Scandinavia and theUnited Kingdom.Another challenge in selling Tokay isthat they are liqueur wines, mostlydrunk as a dessert wine or as anaperitif. Such wines are alwaysslower sellers. The inevitablecomparison is with the FrenchSauternes. “The Sauternes wines are200 years younger than the Tokay,”explains Álvarez, “and our grapes areharvested manually, one by one. This

SPANISH ROOTS ABROAD

WINES

03-vega sicilia.qxd 14/7/07 14:37 Página 38 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

vega sicilia AF.qxd 11/7/07 23:52 Página 38

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 39

is not the case for Sauternes.” Hegoes on to speak with pride of thebalance between sweetness andnatural acidity, and the seductivelightness of the Tokay wines.

Corrupt, rich andtriumphant perfumesAnd now for the secret behind thesefamous Hungarian wines. Thespecial combination of moistureand warmth in this part of Hungaryencourages the growth of Botrytiscinerea, otherwise known as “noblerot”. This mold, which isresponsible for such mythical winesas Château d’Yquem, dries up thegrape, increasing its glycerinecontent and giving rise to thecharacteristic creamy texture of theTokay wines. It also leads to acomplex range of aromas: apricot,quince, honey, tropical fruits, strawand tar, to name but a few. The

botyrized grapes, called aszú inHungarian (meaning withered), areadded to the base wine in varyingproportions, measured by the 20-l(5.3-gal) basket or puttonyos. Thenumber of puttonyos determinesthe type of Tokay wine, from themildest and driest to the top-of-the-pyramid Eszencia, made exclusivelyfrom aszú grapes. In this case, thesugar content is such that the yeastsmay need centuries–literally–tocarry out the necessaryfermentation. “I recently drank aTokay in London with one of ourimporters whose business datesback to the middle of the 17th

century. It was an Eszencia from1874, and it was still drinkable,”says the chairman of Vega Sicilia.Such wonders of nature can onlyhappen in the enigmatic world ofwine, where age and decay becometransformed into beauty andharmony.

Thinning the ranksOver the years, Vega Sicilia has beenworking on creating a distinctiverange of Oremus wines, and thephilosophy of this Valladolid wineryis clear. “The world of wine today ischanging so quickly that it’simpossible to keep up with all thenew products appearing on themarket. I believe in improving thewines that you already produce. Inthe case of Tokay, I think there weretoo many wines,” and he comparesthe process adopted with Oremuswith the policy of limiting theproduct range as followed in Spain.“When we made the decision toeliminate Valbuena 3º in 1987, itwas not because we were bringingout Alión–that’s a different wine, awine in its own right. It was becausewe wanted to focus on two wines,Único and Valbuena.” Today,Oremus comprises six wines. Thefirst is Mandolás, a dry white wine,

38 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

all crystallized in 2003, whenOremus received recognition aswinery of the year in Hungary, anaward granted annually by theHungarian Wine Academy and theFederation of Hungarian Grapes andWine Producers.But in addition to modernization,Vega Sicilia also had to wrestle withoblivion. “It may seem ironic, butwhat was the oldest wine in theworld, at least in terms of itsproduction method, had become agreat unknown. Simply put, duringthe Communist era, the Tokay wines

missed out on half a century, themost important years for wines inEurope. So the main challenge forVega Sicilia is to bring Tokay backonto the international scene.” VegaSicilia has never used the standardadvertising channels for its wines,preferring to be tasted on therecommendations of opinion leaders,with quality being its mostredeeming characteristic. This wasthe method used to sell Oremus, onethat is gradually obtaining thedesired results today. Oremus hasnow made Spain its third largest

market, after Hungary and the US,paving the way for other wineriesfrom the same area. It is also highlyappreciated in Scandinavia and theUnited Kingdom.Another challenge in selling Tokay isthat they are liqueur wines, mostlydrunk as a dessert wine or as anaperitif. Such wines are alwaysslower sellers. The inevitablecomparison is with the FrenchSauternes. “The Sauternes wines are200 years younger than the Tokay,”explains Álvarez, “and our grapes areharvested manually, one by one. This

SPANISH ROOTS ABROAD

WINES

03-vega sicilia.qxd 14/7/07 14:37 Página 38 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

VEGA SICILIA

ELVINO

vega sicilia AF.qxd 11/7/07 23:53 Página 40

40 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 41

the first of its kind from this region,made from Furmint grapes. Togetherwith Harslevelü and Muscat Lunel,these are the three main varietiesgrowing locally. “We believe in thiswine. I personally believe in it. Nowine like it had been produced inthis region before, and I consider itto be a magnificent wine sold at anexcellent price.” It’s followed by LateHarvest, a wine made from grapesthat are very ripe but not necessarilybotyrized yet. Next come the TokayAszú, made with three, five and sixputtonyos. “We’ve always believedthat the five puttonyo Tokay has thebest balance of them all,” claimsÁlvarez, leaning back in hisarmchair. Last but certainly not least

is the crown jewel, the mythicalEszencia, of which production isvery limited. “We are about to reachmaximum production. WithMandolás we make between 100,000and 150,000 bottles a year, and wewant to reach 200,000 in themedium term, in addition to 60,000to 100,000 of Tokay Aszú. The ideais to reach 300,000 bottles a year.”

The Vega SiciliaheritageThe new Vega Sicilia era in Hungaryhas already made its mark. “Since wearrived, the best vintages have been1999 and 2000. They wereprodigious, as were the 1996 and

2004 vintages.” But the Oremuscellars also house other gems. “Rightfrom the start we took on the formermanager of Bokombinat, the state-owned company that ran the Tokayvineyards. He knew what the bestvintages were and advised us topurchase a small stock to sell and tokeep. We have some excellent 1940sand 50s, and others that have beenbought at auctions.”I ask about the “Vega Sicilia touch”and he responds frankly. “We alwayssaid we were not going to teach theHungarians how to make Tokay,” hesays, showing his profound respectfor their age-old tradition. In fact,the Oremus vineyards are 400 yearsold and are said to be the place

SPANISH ROOTS ABROAD

WINES

they make.” His words arereminiscent of Johann SebastianBach, who said, “Anyone who worksas hard as I do will go just as far.”When questioned about futureacquisitions by the company, thechairman is not so forthcoming. Imention the rumors about a possiblepurchase in Bordeaux. His answer israther ambiguous: “We’d like tomake another investment outsideSpain, and it’s true that we’ve alwaysbeen very interested in France. Wehave nothing against the New World,but we believe our future is here, inthe Old World.” When I press fornames, he says, “Vega Sicilia isalways looking at new possibilities.”

where the botrytis mold was firstdiscovered. Tokay was the wine oftsars and monarchs, so its homelandcould be considered sacred ground.If Vega Sicilia has contributedsomething, apart from extensivetechnological modernization, it is itsspecial concept of balance and a firmcommitment to quality at any cost. “Ialways say that everything greatmust have balance. A great winemust be whole, with no singlepredominating element.” And if wewere to define the new Oremuswines, they could be said to besomewhat fresher and lighter thanthe Tokay wines that preceded them.Álvarez considers familiarizationwith the vine as a living being to beone of the keys to making wine. “Ittakes many years to understandvines. Winemakers talk all the timeabout vines but really we have noidea. I always joke and say thatwinemakers used to consider grapessomething of an unavoidablenecessity for making wine,suggesting that wine was really madein the winery. But the grape is thefoundation and accounts for thewine’s personality, or at least 50% ofit. You then have to consider themethodology, the care, the expertise,etc.” And he mentions their secretingredient. “There are people whoknow what they’re doing but, in theend, what really counts is the effort

For the time being, the only thingthat’s clear is Vega Sicilia’sinvolvement in Oremus. “There’s stillplenty to learn in Tokay. I don’t thinkyou can ever make the ultimatewine. You have to continue thelearning and investigation processes.We need 20 to 25 years to knowwhat we’re dealing with, and there’sgoing to be work left for thosefollowing in our footsteps,” he adds,with a smile.

David Cánovas Williams has workedas a journalist in digital media and as afreelance translator. He is currentlyworking as a journalist with SpainGourmetour.

www.tokajoremus.comA brief history of the Tokay wines and the Oremus range.

www.vegasicilia.comThe Vega Sicilia site.

W E B S I T E S

03-vega sicilia.qxd 14/7/07 14:39 Página 40 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

VEGA SICILIA

ELVINO

vega sicilia AF.qxd 11/7/07 23:53 Página 40

40 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 41

the first of its kind from this region,made from Furmint grapes. Togetherwith Harslevelü and Muscat Lunel,these are the three main varietiesgrowing locally. “We believe in thiswine. I personally believe in it. Nowine like it had been produced inthis region before, and I consider itto be a magnificent wine sold at anexcellent price.” It’s followed by LateHarvest, a wine made from grapesthat are very ripe but not necessarilybotyrized yet. Next come the TokayAszú, made with three, five and sixputtonyos. “We’ve always believedthat the five puttonyo Tokay has thebest balance of them all,” claimsÁlvarez, leaning back in hisarmchair. Last but certainly not least

is the crown jewel, the mythicalEszencia, of which production isvery limited. “We are about to reachmaximum production. WithMandolás we make between 100,000and 150,000 bottles a year, and wewant to reach 200,000 in themedium term, in addition to 60,000to 100,000 of Tokay Aszú. The ideais to reach 300,000 bottles a year.”

The Vega SiciliaheritageThe new Vega Sicilia era in Hungaryhas already made its mark. “Since wearrived, the best vintages have been1999 and 2000. They wereprodigious, as were the 1996 and

2004 vintages.” But the Oremuscellars also house other gems. “Rightfrom the start we took on the formermanager of Bokombinat, the state-owned company that ran the Tokayvineyards. He knew what the bestvintages were and advised us topurchase a small stock to sell and tokeep. We have some excellent 1940sand 50s, and others that have beenbought at auctions.”I ask about the “Vega Sicilia touch”and he responds frankly. “We alwayssaid we were not going to teach theHungarians how to make Tokay,” hesays, showing his profound respectfor their age-old tradition. In fact,the Oremus vineyards are 400 yearsold and are said to be the place

SPANISH ROOTS ABROAD

WINES

they make.” His words arereminiscent of Johann SebastianBach, who said, “Anyone who worksas hard as I do will go just as far.”When questioned about futureacquisitions by the company, thechairman is not so forthcoming. Imention the rumors about a possiblepurchase in Bordeaux. His answer israther ambiguous: “We’d like tomake another investment outsideSpain, and it’s true that we’ve alwaysbeen very interested in France. Wehave nothing against the New World,but we believe our future is here, inthe Old World.” When I press fornames, he says, “Vega Sicilia isalways looking at new possibilities.”

where the botrytis mold was firstdiscovered. Tokay was the wine oftsars and monarchs, so its homelandcould be considered sacred ground.If Vega Sicilia has contributedsomething, apart from extensivetechnological modernization, it is itsspecial concept of balance and a firmcommitment to quality at any cost. “Ialways say that everything greatmust have balance. A great winemust be whole, with no singlepredominating element.” And if wewere to define the new Oremuswines, they could be said to besomewhat fresher and lighter thanthe Tokay wines that preceded them.Álvarez considers familiarizationwith the vine as a living being to beone of the keys to making wine. “Ittakes many years to understandvines. Winemakers talk all the timeabout vines but really we have noidea. I always joke and say thatwinemakers used to consider grapessomething of an unavoidablenecessity for making wine,suggesting that wine was really madein the winery. But the grape is thefoundation and accounts for thewine’s personality, or at least 50% ofit. You then have to consider themethodology, the care, the expertise,etc.” And he mentions their secretingredient. “There are people whoknow what they’re doing but, in theend, what really counts is the effort

For the time being, the only thingthat’s clear is Vega Sicilia’sinvolvement in Oremus. “There’s stillplenty to learn in Tokay. I don’t thinkyou can ever make the ultimatewine. You have to continue thelearning and investigation processes.We need 20 to 25 years to knowwhat we’re dealing with, and there’sgoing to be work left for thosefollowing in our footsteps,” he adds,with a smile.

David Cánovas Williams has workedas a journalist in digital media and as afreelance translator. He is currentlyworking as a journalist with SpainGourmetour.

www.tokajoremus.comA brief history of the Tokay wines and the Oremus range.

www.vegasicilia.comThe Vega Sicilia site.

W E B S I T E S

03-vega sicilia.qxd 14/7/07 14:39 Página 40 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

SENDAS

enoturismo AF.qxd 12/7/07 01:18 Página 42

In Spain, the European country boasting the greatest

biodiversity, a 100-km (62-mi) drive can take you out

of one landscape and into another, radically different,

one. Between one side of a valley and the other, one

bank of a river and another and the upper and lower

slopes of a mountain, the climate can shift from

Mediterranean to Continental, through Atlantic, to

semi-desertic and even subtropical. This wealth of

contrasts accounts for one of the widest vinicultural

ranges in the world. Vines carpet sea-side terrain, steep-

sided gorges, river banks, vast inland plains and areas

with volcanic soil. In the second part of this series we

travel the Iberian Peninsula from north to south,

exploring regions famous for wine-making and the

culture that goes with it, and you know what? Our

luggage couldn’t be more oddly assorted.

Wine Tourism (II)WINE

The

ofPURSUIT

04-enoturismo.qxd 14/7/07 14:43 Página 42 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

SENDAS

enoturismo AF.qxd 12/7/07 01:18 Página 42

In Spain, the European country boasting the greatest

biodiversity, a 100-km (62-mi) drive can take you out

of one landscape and into another, radically different,

one. Between one side of a valley and the other, one

bank of a river and another and the upper and lower

slopes of a mountain, the climate can shift from

Mediterranean to Continental, through Atlantic, to

semi-desertic and even subtropical. This wealth of

contrasts accounts for one of the widest vinicultural

ranges in the world. Vines carpet sea-side terrain, steep-

sided gorges, river banks, vast inland plains and areas

with volcanic soil. In the second part of this series we

travel the Iberian Peninsula from north to south,

exploring regions famous for wine-making and the

culture that goes with it, and you know what? Our

luggage couldn’t be more oddly assorted.

Wine Tourism (II)WINE

The

ofPURSUIT

04-enoturismo.qxd 14/7/07 14:43 Página 42 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

enoturismo AF.qxd 19/7/07 12:31 Página 44

Right on the Atlantic coast, a stone’sthrow from quiet, white-sandbeaches, is one Galicia’s prime grape-growing areas. The DO Rías Baixaslies between the sea and the broadestuary of the Umia and Miño Riversin the Pontevedra province. Its cool,damp climate envelops us as we stepoff the plane, and it will be ourconstant companion throughout ourvisit here. As we soon learn, thesemeteorological conditions are idealfor growing Albariño, the variety thatreigns all but supreme in this area’svineyards. It is, however, a delicategrape that requires extra-carefulcultivation to reach the perfectdegree of ripeness. This explainswhy the vines are trained on tall,granite posts so that air can circulatearound the grape bunches andprevent them from rotting. Given theheight of the vines, which areharvested exclusively by hand, andthe small-holding pattern traditionalto the region’s agriculture, it comesas no surprise that most of the area’sbodegas are small-scale. The samereasons explain why the cooperativeis a preferred formula amongGalicia’s vine growers. If the figuresare anything to go by, it works wellfor them. The Condes de AlbareiCooperative’s production hasdoubled in the last four years and is

still increasing. Attaching ourselvesto a group of wine tourists beingshown around the co-op’s premises,we stop in front of one of the tanks.In a matter of seconds, theoenologist deftly extracts a sample ofAlbariño for each of us to taste, andalthough she warns us that the wineisn’t ready yet, we can alreadydiscern its characteristic features.Fresh, dry, fruity, intense aromas ofwhite flowers and apples, with just azing of acidity–these are the mostreiterated comments during thisimpromptu tasting.The corridors of the Martín Codaxwinery are also buzzing with activity.This is most productive cooperativein DO Rías Baixas, and its premisesare being expanded on to meetgrowing demand from the Americanmarket–now Albariño’s biggestconsumer outside Spain. The winery,which takes its name from a 13th-century Galician troubadour, has itsown obradoiro (Galician for “tastingworkshop”), where games are usedto train visitors’ senses of taste andsmell. Its most spectacular feature,however, is the view. From its hilltopsite one looks down over the valleybelow, where countless little plotsmake up a vast patchwork ofvineyards. On a clear day one cansee as far as the sea, punctuated by

the islands of O Grove, La Toja andArousa.“The tide’s out at the moment,” alocal tells us. “If you hurry, you’ll seethe marisqueras still working hardgathering shellfish.” We follow hisinstructions and head for the Port ofChazo on Arousa island, a tinynatural harbor, vivid withpicturesque vessels of all shapes andsizes. On the shore, a group ofwomen are churning up the sandwith rakes, chatting, joking andlaughing as they do their gruelingjob which involves bending over forhours on end. Their bucketsful ofclams and cockles will be auctionedoff just a few feet away at the localwholesale fish market, a place withso much atmosphere and interestingsights and sounds that even thosewho don’t go to buy anything find itfascinating.There are two main sources oflivelihood for the inhabitants ofthese coastal villages–wine andfish–and the harmony between themseems serendipitous. Albariño’sfinely balanced acidity makes it theperfect companion for seafood fromthe rías (Galicia’s fjord-like inlets).The area’s many family-runrestaurants serve unbeatable, simple,traditional food that uses seasonalproduce as its starting point. A good

44 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 45

Whereas our first itinerary stayedwithin the limits of northern Spain,this time we travel the length of lapiel de toro (the “bull’s hide”-shapedIberian Peninsula) from top tobottom. We’ve be visiting the whitesof Galicia at the top to the finos ofJerez at the bottom, with the winesof La Mancha (championed by DonQuixote), the powerful reds ofJumilla and Bullas (domain of theMonastrell grape) and sweet PXsfrom Montilla-Moriles in between.Our purpose is to take look at whatthe various regions have to offer byway of wine tourism: clearly, wine isthe denominator common to themall, and it is indeed the mainattraction. Yet each of them takes itsown different approach to winetourism: there are winery andvineyard visits, tastings, wine andfood matching, gastronomy… Notwo trips are the same as everywinery is unique, with its ownbackground story and above all itsown individual wines. What winetourism offers is a chance to discoverthe uniqueness of each territoryfirsthand, and to understand howthat shapes the personality of thewines it produces, guided by thepeople most closely involved:oenologists, proprietors and even thelocal inhabitants.

Although this kind of tourism is stillin its infancy in Spain, it isdeveloping rapidly. The growingnumber of destinations accredited byACEVIN, the Spanish Association ofWine Cities attests to this. ACEVINis the organization that, with thebacking of the Secretariat General forTourism, created the Wine Routes ofSpain brand in 2001. Winegrowingregions involved in the scheme arerequired to meet obligatoryminimum requirements in suchareas as management, signage,promotion and marketing, and as aresult the brand is already perceivedas a quality guarantee by thousandsof tourists.Having taken advantage of the winetourism opportunities offered by LaRioja, Ribera del Duero, Somontanoand Penedès, we now complete ourexploration of ACEVIN-certifiedwine routes. These include one forNavarre, an area traversed forcenturies by millions of pilgrims enroute to Santiago de Compostela andfamous for its rosé wines, andValencia’s Utiel-Requena, in thewest of the Autonomous Communityof Valencia, one of the last redoubtsof the red variety, Bobal.However, our trip represents just oneof many possible permutations. Youcan design your own, customized

route or stick to a tried and testedone (Finding your way, page 55 andWebsites, page 56). The number oftourist-orientated wine routes isgrowing by the minute. As we speak,several designations of origin are atthe point of joining the prestigiouscertified routes group.

Whites from greenSpainGalicia just doesn’t match thepicture–perfect postcard image thatso many millions of tourists see intheir mind’s eye when they think ofSpain. In fact, this region in thenorthwest of the peninsula is morereminiscent of the Englishcountryside except for the fact that,here, the landscape’s greenery ismade up not only of fields andwoods but also of countlessvineyards. These consist of tiny plotsthe size of small gardens, and theyare cultivated as such. All the careand effort that goes into them isreflected in wines whose qualityplaces them among the best whitesin Spain. And although theircommercial horizons are constantlyexpanding, they remain very muchrooted in the tradition from whichtheir character derives.

WINE TOURISM II

TextCeliaHernando

TranslationHawysPritchard

AROUND&ABOUT

WINE TOURISM II

AROUND&ABOUT

04-enoturismo.qxd 19/7/07 12:50 Página 44 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

enoturismo AF.qxd 19/7/07 12:31 Página 44

Right on the Atlantic coast, a stone’sthrow from quiet, white-sandbeaches, is one Galicia’s prime grape-growing areas. The DO Rías Baixaslies between the sea and the broadestuary of the Umia and Miño Riversin the Pontevedra province. Its cool,damp climate envelops us as we stepoff the plane, and it will be ourconstant companion throughout ourvisit here. As we soon learn, thesemeteorological conditions are idealfor growing Albariño, the variety thatreigns all but supreme in this area’svineyards. It is, however, a delicategrape that requires extra-carefulcultivation to reach the perfectdegree of ripeness. This explainswhy the vines are trained on tall,granite posts so that air can circulatearound the grape bunches andprevent them from rotting. Given theheight of the vines, which areharvested exclusively by hand, andthe small-holding pattern traditionalto the region’s agriculture, it comesas no surprise that most of the area’sbodegas are small-scale. The samereasons explain why the cooperativeis a preferred formula amongGalicia’s vine growers. If the figuresare anything to go by, it works wellfor them. The Condes de AlbareiCooperative’s production hasdoubled in the last four years and is

still increasing. Attaching ourselvesto a group of wine tourists beingshown around the co-op’s premises,we stop in front of one of the tanks.In a matter of seconds, theoenologist deftly extracts a sample ofAlbariño for each of us to taste, andalthough she warns us that the wineisn’t ready yet, we can alreadydiscern its characteristic features.Fresh, dry, fruity, intense aromas ofwhite flowers and apples, with just azing of acidity–these are the mostreiterated comments during thisimpromptu tasting.The corridors of the Martín Codaxwinery are also buzzing with activity.This is most productive cooperativein DO Rías Baixas, and its premisesare being expanded on to meetgrowing demand from the Americanmarket–now Albariño’s biggestconsumer outside Spain. The winery,which takes its name from a 13th-century Galician troubadour, has itsown obradoiro (Galician for “tastingworkshop”), where games are usedto train visitors’ senses of taste andsmell. Its most spectacular feature,however, is the view. From its hilltopsite one looks down over the valleybelow, where countless little plotsmake up a vast patchwork ofvineyards. On a clear day one cansee as far as the sea, punctuated by

the islands of O Grove, La Toja andArousa.“The tide’s out at the moment,” alocal tells us. “If you hurry, you’ll seethe marisqueras still working hardgathering shellfish.” We follow hisinstructions and head for the Port ofChazo on Arousa island, a tinynatural harbor, vivid withpicturesque vessels of all shapes andsizes. On the shore, a group ofwomen are churning up the sandwith rakes, chatting, joking andlaughing as they do their gruelingjob which involves bending over forhours on end. Their bucketsful ofclams and cockles will be auctionedoff just a few feet away at the localwholesale fish market, a place withso much atmosphere and interestingsights and sounds that even thosewho don’t go to buy anything find itfascinating.There are two main sources oflivelihood for the inhabitants ofthese coastal villages–wine andfish–and the harmony between themseems serendipitous. Albariño’sfinely balanced acidity makes it theperfect companion for seafood fromthe rías (Galicia’s fjord-like inlets).The area’s many family-runrestaurants serve unbeatable, simple,traditional food that uses seasonalproduce as its starting point. A good

44 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 45

Whereas our first itinerary stayedwithin the limits of northern Spain,this time we travel the length of lapiel de toro (the “bull’s hide”-shapedIberian Peninsula) from top tobottom. We’ve be visiting the whitesof Galicia at the top to the finos ofJerez at the bottom, with the winesof La Mancha (championed by DonQuixote), the powerful reds ofJumilla and Bullas (domain of theMonastrell grape) and sweet PXsfrom Montilla-Moriles in between.Our purpose is to take look at whatthe various regions have to offer byway of wine tourism: clearly, wine isthe denominator common to themall, and it is indeed the mainattraction. Yet each of them takes itsown different approach to winetourism: there are winery andvineyard visits, tastings, wine andfood matching, gastronomy… Notwo trips are the same as everywinery is unique, with its ownbackground story and above all itsown individual wines. What winetourism offers is a chance to discoverthe uniqueness of each territoryfirsthand, and to understand howthat shapes the personality of thewines it produces, guided by thepeople most closely involved:oenologists, proprietors and even thelocal inhabitants.

Although this kind of tourism is stillin its infancy in Spain, it isdeveloping rapidly. The growingnumber of destinations accredited byACEVIN, the Spanish Association ofWine Cities attests to this. ACEVINis the organization that, with thebacking of the Secretariat General forTourism, created the Wine Routes ofSpain brand in 2001. Winegrowingregions involved in the scheme arerequired to meet obligatoryminimum requirements in suchareas as management, signage,promotion and marketing, and as aresult the brand is already perceivedas a quality guarantee by thousandsof tourists.Having taken advantage of the winetourism opportunities offered by LaRioja, Ribera del Duero, Somontanoand Penedès, we now complete ourexploration of ACEVIN-certifiedwine routes. These include one forNavarre, an area traversed forcenturies by millions of pilgrims enroute to Santiago de Compostela andfamous for its rosé wines, andValencia’s Utiel-Requena, in thewest of the Autonomous Communityof Valencia, one of the last redoubtsof the red variety, Bobal.However, our trip represents just oneof many possible permutations. Youcan design your own, customized

route or stick to a tried and testedone (Finding your way, page 55 andWebsites, page 56). The number oftourist-orientated wine routes isgrowing by the minute. As we speak,several designations of origin are atthe point of joining the prestigiouscertified routes group.

Whites from greenSpainGalicia just doesn’t match thepicture–perfect postcard image thatso many millions of tourists see intheir mind’s eye when they think ofSpain. In fact, this region in thenorthwest of the peninsula is morereminiscent of the Englishcountryside except for the fact that,here, the landscape’s greenery ismade up not only of fields andwoods but also of countlessvineyards. These consist of tiny plotsthe size of small gardens, and theyare cultivated as such. All the careand effort that goes into them isreflected in wines whose qualityplaces them among the best whitesin Spain. And although theircommercial horizons are constantlyexpanding, they remain very muchrooted in the tradition from whichtheir character derives.

WINE TOURISM II

TextCeliaHernando

TranslationHawysPritchard

AROUND&ABOUT

WINE TOURISM II

AROUND&ABOUT

04-enoturismo.qxd 19/7/07 12:50 Página 44 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

enoturismo AF.qxd 12/7/07 01:06 Página 46

countless valleys, and we are aboutto discover the secret containedtherein (Spain Gourmetour No. 60).The ancient Romans recognized thatthe mild, sunny climate of thisinland region made it ideal for vinegrowing. They seem to have beenundaunted by geographicalobstacles, tackling the Herculeantask of digging out terraces from themountainsides to gain more landthan the natural landscape provided,and planting them with vines. Whatamounted to a colossal feat of civilengineering was continued andexpanded in the Middle Ages byvarious monastic orders, whichsucceeded in making Ribeiro winesomething of a favorite in Britain andFlanders. “Absolutely all the landyou see before you would have beencovered in vines centuries ago,”explains Xose Lois Sebio, Coto deGomariz’s oenologist, as he skillfullymaneuvers his 4x4 over the steeplysloping terrain around the winery.“The containing walls that patternthe hillsides–worn down but stillstanding the test of time–say it all.”Since the early 17th century, whenthat era of splendor was brought toan end by religious and politicalproblems (Galicia’s Catholic bishopsrefusing to engage in trade withProtestant lands), other vegetation

has progressively encroached on thevine plantations. Today, however,several winery-owners are setting outto redress the balance. Coto deGomáriz is among those building upthe terraces again and replantingthem with native grape varieties.A visit to Viña Costeira also beginswith a pleasant tour of itsvineyards–Treixadura, Godello,Sousón, Loureira–the range ofvarieties is impressive, and all ofthem are native. “It’s the equivalentof giving a painter a palette full ofcolors to work with,” beams ManuelCastro, oenologist of the region’sbiggest co-op. “That’s why a classicRiberio wine has always been ablend,” he explains. In the tastingroom, the sampling concludes withtwo sweet surprises. The first is alittle glass of Tostado, historically aGalician wine made with raisinedgrapes produced in tiny quantitiesthat never exceed 2,000 half-literbottles a year. The second is agorgeous licor de café (coffee liqueur)made with top-flight Jamaican BlueMountain coffee.We speculate about how it mightfare at the annual Licor de Caféfestival in Berán, during which thelocal bodegas throw open their doorsto tourists and the merely curious.The tradition of distilling pressed

grape skins and pips to makeaguardientes (marcs) is so deep-rooted among the people of Galiciathat many still produce their own,home-made versions for homeconsumption.The folk festival calendar is just asdensely packed here as it was in theRías Baixas area. Two stand out fromthe rest and both take place inRibadavia. The Vino de Ribeirofestival coincides with the first warmweather in spring, and the Fiesta dela Historia takes place in August, itshistorical theme turning this formercapital of Galicia (back in the 11th

century) into a medieval pageant.The locals dress up in periodcostume, buy and sell in maravedís(the currency at the time) and, inrecognition of this municipality’sJewish roots, they even celebrate aJewish wedding. The Jewishcommunity played a vital role in thewine trade during that era, and itsheritage lives on in the streets of thejudería, the Jewish quarter inRibadavia’s historic center. A littlebakery located there has beenproducing traditional Jewishsweetmeats on a daily basis for thelast 20 years. Herminia Rodríguezbakes her sweets and pastries fromrecipes so ancient, “that they’ve evenforgotten them in Israel,” she

46 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 47

sample meal might start off with aserving of pimientos de Padrón (tinygreen, and occasionally hot, friedpeppers seasoned with coarse seasalt), followed by navajas (razorclams), almejas (clams) or vieiras(scallops) and then–appetitepermitting–by a ría-caught fishcooked on the griddle, accompaniedby a well-chilled Albariño, theperfect foil for all those fresh seaflavors.The many popular festivals andromerías (rural pilgrimages) thatsaturate the Galician calendar duringthe summer months offer amarvelous opportunity for samplingthe local cuisine. They cater to alltastes. Bandeira, for example, holds aFiesta de la Empanada, dedicated towhat is Galicia’s answer to theCornish Pasty. Locals pridethemselves on making themaccording to the recipe usedcenturies ago by monks and inn-keepers catering to pilgrims on theirway to Santiago de Compostela. Thelist of festivals is endless, as are theproducts they celebrate: mussels,oysters, cocido gallego (the localversion of this national stew featuresvarious kinds of meat, chorizo,cabbage or turnip greens, etc.), andso on. Cambados holds a fairdedicated to Albariño. On the first

Sunday in August each year, thestreets of this little town are packedwith booths in which DO RíasBaixas’ wines demonstrate theirrange. For that one day, everythingrevolves around them. There aretastings, competitions and solemnswearing-in ceremonies of newknights of the Order of Albariñowho vow to “always to defend thiswine and consider it rightful ruler ofall the wines of the Christian world”.This coastal municipality, consideredthe Albariño capital, was the sourceof the DO’s first brand, Pazo deFefiñanes. The winery with the samename occupies the centuries-oldoutbuildings of a 16th-centuryfortified pazo (the Galician word forpalace, or mansion) once owned bythe former viscount of the region,who was proprietor and overlord ofmost of the surrounding land. Atharvest time, grapes being deliveredto the winery provide a fascinatingspectacle for people passing throughthe adjoining square, a huge, austerepromenade presided over by the fineRomanesque church of San Benito.Galicia’s pazos are spaciousmansions, occupied in earlier timesby powerful local figures. Closelyenmeshed with the rural world,many of them had their own smallbodegas for making wine to supply

family needs. Pazo A Capitana inCambados has retained four winepresses from its original winerywhich are now displayed asdecorative items in the modern one.The current owners have done upthe rooms of what was once thesummer mansion of a famous 15th-century captain, and turned it into aquiet country hotel. The majesticstone building is organized around aspacious courtyard from which thereis access to a well-tended vineyard,planted exclusively with Albariño.

Galicia with aMediterranean spiritLeaving the coast behind us, we nowset off to find out where and whenGalicia’s wine-producing story firstbegan. We have been driving for lessthan half an hour, but the landscapehas already changed significantly.Towns are becoming fewer andfewer, and the earlier scattering ofhouses now gives way to verdantwoodland of pine, oak, chestnutsand other species characteristic ofMediterranean climes. Thepermanent mist is no longer with us,and the sun starts to shine withsurprising force. We are heading forthe heart of Ribeiro, land of

WINE TOURISM II

AROUND&ABOUT

WINE TOURISM II

AROUND&ABOUT

04-enoturismo.qxd 19/7/07 12:55 Página 46 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

enoturismo AF.qxd 12/7/07 01:06 Página 46

countless valleys, and we are aboutto discover the secret containedtherein (Spain Gourmetour No. 60).The ancient Romans recognized thatthe mild, sunny climate of thisinland region made it ideal for vinegrowing. They seem to have beenundaunted by geographicalobstacles, tackling the Herculeantask of digging out terraces from themountainsides to gain more landthan the natural landscape provided,and planting them with vines. Whatamounted to a colossal feat of civilengineering was continued andexpanded in the Middle Ages byvarious monastic orders, whichsucceeded in making Ribeiro winesomething of a favorite in Britain andFlanders. “Absolutely all the landyou see before you would have beencovered in vines centuries ago,”explains Xose Lois Sebio, Coto deGomariz’s oenologist, as he skillfullymaneuvers his 4x4 over the steeplysloping terrain around the winery.“The containing walls that patternthe hillsides–worn down but stillstanding the test of time–say it all.”Since the early 17th century, whenthat era of splendor was brought toan end by religious and politicalproblems (Galicia’s Catholic bishopsrefusing to engage in trade withProtestant lands), other vegetation

has progressively encroached on thevine plantations. Today, however,several winery-owners are setting outto redress the balance. Coto deGomáriz is among those building upthe terraces again and replantingthem with native grape varieties.A visit to Viña Costeira also beginswith a pleasant tour of itsvineyards–Treixadura, Godello,Sousón, Loureira–the range ofvarieties is impressive, and all ofthem are native. “It’s the equivalentof giving a painter a palette full ofcolors to work with,” beams ManuelCastro, oenologist of the region’sbiggest co-op. “That’s why a classicRiberio wine has always been ablend,” he explains. In the tastingroom, the sampling concludes withtwo sweet surprises. The first is alittle glass of Tostado, historically aGalician wine made with raisinedgrapes produced in tiny quantitiesthat never exceed 2,000 half-literbottles a year. The second is agorgeous licor de café (coffee liqueur)made with top-flight Jamaican BlueMountain coffee.We speculate about how it mightfare at the annual Licor de Caféfestival in Berán, during which thelocal bodegas throw open their doorsto tourists and the merely curious.The tradition of distilling pressed

grape skins and pips to makeaguardientes (marcs) is so deep-rooted among the people of Galiciathat many still produce their own,home-made versions for homeconsumption.The folk festival calendar is just asdensely packed here as it was in theRías Baixas area. Two stand out fromthe rest and both take place inRibadavia. The Vino de Ribeirofestival coincides with the first warmweather in spring, and the Fiesta dela Historia takes place in August, itshistorical theme turning this formercapital of Galicia (back in the 11th

century) into a medieval pageant.The locals dress up in periodcostume, buy and sell in maravedís(the currency at the time) and, inrecognition of this municipality’sJewish roots, they even celebrate aJewish wedding. The Jewishcommunity played a vital role in thewine trade during that era, and itsheritage lives on in the streets of thejudería, the Jewish quarter inRibadavia’s historic center. A littlebakery located there has beenproducing traditional Jewishsweetmeats on a daily basis for thelast 20 years. Herminia Rodríguezbakes her sweets and pastries fromrecipes so ancient, “that they’ve evenforgotten them in Israel,” she

46 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 47

sample meal might start off with aserving of pimientos de Padrón (tinygreen, and occasionally hot, friedpeppers seasoned with coarse seasalt), followed by navajas (razorclams), almejas (clams) or vieiras(scallops) and then–appetitepermitting–by a ría-caught fishcooked on the griddle, accompaniedby a well-chilled Albariño, theperfect foil for all those fresh seaflavors.The many popular festivals andromerías (rural pilgrimages) thatsaturate the Galician calendar duringthe summer months offer amarvelous opportunity for samplingthe local cuisine. They cater to alltastes. Bandeira, for example, holds aFiesta de la Empanada, dedicated towhat is Galicia’s answer to theCornish Pasty. Locals pridethemselves on making themaccording to the recipe usedcenturies ago by monks and inn-keepers catering to pilgrims on theirway to Santiago de Compostela. Thelist of festivals is endless, as are theproducts they celebrate: mussels,oysters, cocido gallego (the localversion of this national stew featuresvarious kinds of meat, chorizo,cabbage or turnip greens, etc.), andso on. Cambados holds a fairdedicated to Albariño. On the first

Sunday in August each year, thestreets of this little town are packedwith booths in which DO RíasBaixas’ wines demonstrate theirrange. For that one day, everythingrevolves around them. There aretastings, competitions and solemnswearing-in ceremonies of newknights of the Order of Albariñowho vow to “always to defend thiswine and consider it rightful ruler ofall the wines of the Christian world”.This coastal municipality, consideredthe Albariño capital, was the sourceof the DO’s first brand, Pazo deFefiñanes. The winery with the samename occupies the centuries-oldoutbuildings of a 16th-centuryfortified pazo (the Galician word forpalace, or mansion) once owned bythe former viscount of the region,who was proprietor and overlord ofmost of the surrounding land. Atharvest time, grapes being deliveredto the winery provide a fascinatingspectacle for people passing throughthe adjoining square, a huge, austerepromenade presided over by the fineRomanesque church of San Benito.Galicia’s pazos are spaciousmansions, occupied in earlier timesby powerful local figures. Closelyenmeshed with the rural world,many of them had their own smallbodegas for making wine to supply

family needs. Pazo A Capitana inCambados has retained four winepresses from its original winerywhich are now displayed asdecorative items in the modern one.The current owners have done upthe rooms of what was once thesummer mansion of a famous 15th-century captain, and turned it into aquiet country hotel. The majesticstone building is organized around aspacious courtyard from which thereis access to a well-tended vineyard,planted exclusively with Albariño.

Galicia with aMediterranean spiritLeaving the coast behind us, we nowset off to find out where and whenGalicia’s wine-producing story firstbegan. We have been driving for lessthan half an hour, but the landscapehas already changed significantly.Towns are becoming fewer andfewer, and the earlier scattering ofhouses now gives way to verdantwoodland of pine, oak, chestnutsand other species characteristic ofMediterranean climes. Thepermanent mist is no longer with us,and the sun starts to shine withsurprising force. We are heading forthe heart of Ribeiro, land of

WINE TOURISM II

AROUND&ABOUT

WINE TOURISM II

AROUND&ABOUT

04-enoturismo.qxd 19/7/07 12:55 Página 46 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

enoturismo AF.qxd 12/7/07 01:07 Página 48

interconnected by a maze of steepstreets. Tucked in among thedwellings we find the Castilblanquewinery: “the most ‘villagey’ one, themost Manchegan of the lot,” MaríaJosé Campo claims proudly. She runsits wine tourism department, locatedin a 19th-century bodega, sensitivelyrestored to keep its original structureintact as much as possible. Itsvarious rooms are organized arounda traditional cobblestone courtyard,which on summer nights sometimesserves as a makeshift theater forclassical music concerts. Althoughmost La Mancha wines are made tobe drunk young, wood is starting toplay an increasingly important rolein the region’s bodegas. InCastilblanque’s cask room we tastedsix reds and, under the oenologist’sguidance, detected the qualitiesinstilled into them by differentwoods.The casks at Finca Los Nevadosoccupy a much bigger hall, with aroof supported by high, iron arches,but this comes later in the itinerary.Beforehand, we take a horse-drawncarriage tour around the winery’s200 ha (494 acres) of vineyard. Aswe go, the vineyard manager is keento stress the point that the down-market bulk-wine image attached toLa Mancha for so many years is still

impeding recognition of the region’strue situation today. “Of course, hugecooperatives shifting vast quantitiesstill exist,” he says, “but beside themare dozens of wine-growers,ourselves among them, who haveopted for quality wines and small-scale production.” Visitors get thechance to test the results of thisapproach in the bodega’s restaurant.The cuisine, a creative take on theManchegan tradition, isaccompanied by wines whose exactvineyard provenance is proudlyspecified.Pago del Vicario, in Ciudad Real, wasalso created along the lines of aFrench wine chateau. Its vineyardsextend around buildings designed toblend discreetly into theirsurroundings, and in addition to thewinery itself, these include a luxuryhotel and a restaurant. This waswhere we tasted Manchego cheese forthe first time on this trip, and it wasexcellent. Manchego cheese, which isprotected by a designation of origin,is made exclusively with milk fromsheep of the Manchega breed whichroam freely about this dry terrain,feeding on scrub, stubble and acorns.It is a fatty, slightly piquant, saltycheese, which is matched beautifullyby the fruitiness and herbaceousaromas of a young La Mancha red.

The family that owns Pago del Vicarioalso runs the little Villadiego cheesefactory where all the cheeses areartisan-made from raw milk obtainedfrom Manchega sheep.

SouthernLa ManchaIt’s a long way between one bodegaand another in the biggestwinegrowing area in the world, butthis at least gives one a chance to stopoff occasionally en route to combinethe main purpose of ourtrip–wine–with other interests such asart, nature, movies, etc. Part of PedroAlmodóvar’s film Volver was shot inAlmagro, in the heart of the Campode Calatrava. “I love the severity ofthese streets, the stones underfoot,the black iron windows unadornedby flower pots or any otherdecoration, the dark socles, the brightdaylight.” Such were the La Mancha-born filmmaker’s impressions of thetown during filming. But in additionto the quiet streets and noble houses,Almagro’s attractions also include the17th-century Corral de Comedias,Spain’s only surviving Golden Agetheater, which hosts the InternationalFestival of Classical Theater everysummer.

48 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 49

proudly declares. A huge collectionof photographs of celebrities,politicians and rabbis adorns thebakery’s dark walls. Unsurprisingly,La Tahona de Herminia is a regularport of call for the thousands ofpeople who travel Spain’s SephardicRoute each year.We have been nibbling as we go, andour appetites have been whetted forserious food. We decide to try a pre-matched food-and-wine meal: theCasal de Armán winery has afabulous restaurant where every dishis served with a Ribeiro wine whilethe bodega’s oenologistsimultaneously conducts a guidedtasting. And this is just the start of itswine tourism orientated repertoire:rural accommodation amid itsvineyards, an invitation to take partin the grape harvest and suggestedcycling routes for exploring themany medieval roads that crisscrossthe comarca are among the rest.Running the risk of getting lost, weshun main roads in favor of lesser,narrower ones that wind through thelandscape of fields of vines, lushwoods, babbling brooks and littlevillages where time has stood still.The cobblestone streets of Pazos deArenteiro, with their many statelyhouses, have been true witnesses tothis region’s glorious past. Many of

these rural mansions, all butabandoned today, were once home toknights of the Order of Malta,successors to other warrior monks,the Knights Templar. These houseswere built from the proceeds of thewine trade, and many of them stillhave cool, dark wine cellars beneaththem. The tombstones interspersedamong the paving stones inside thevillage’s Romanesque church are, bydefinition, those of eminent localfigures: only the well-off could haveafforded this honor, for which theywould have paid in kind, specificallywine.

The land of DonQuixoteWe exchange inland Galicia’s rollinggreen hills for La Mancha’s endlessplain. Though the summer heat hasnot yet yellowed the cereal fieldswhich alternate with vineyards,within a few weeks the vastlandscape flashing by the windowsof our train will look verydifferent–more austere andunwelcoming, suitable territory forthe more intrepid traveler. LaMancha is inconceivably huge–it isthe biggest winegrowing region inthe word–and the variety within it

and a wine culture stretching backinto the past give it a seductivequality.After gazing out for hours on end atvineyard after vineyard as far as theeye can see, our attention happilyfalls upon instantly recognizableshapes in the distance. “At this pointthey came in sight of 30 or 40windmills on that plain,” Miguel deCervantes wrote in the 17th century,describing this same scene. Wecount ten of the windmills that theKnight of the Woeful Countenancemistook for giants. Some areperfectly preserved, as they were stillin use until only 50 years ago andstill have their original mechanismswhich are put into action every nowand again “so that they don’t getrusty,” our guide explains. Othershave been converted into attractivelittle museums devoted to suchthemes as farming, poetry and, ofcourse, wine. Don Quixote’sweakness for wine earned tartcomments from his faithful squireSancho Panza, such as: “Hecommended the wine so highly thathe praised it to the skies, though hedid not risk leaving it there for longin case it turned into water.”Campo de Criptana’s famouswindmills crown a little town of lowhouses painted white and indigo and

WINE TOURISM II

AROUND&ABOUT

WINE TOURISM II

AROUND&ABOUT

04-enoturismo.qxd 19/7/07 12:57 Página 48 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

enoturismo AF.qxd 12/7/07 01:07 Página 48

interconnected by a maze of steepstreets. Tucked in among thedwellings we find the Castilblanquewinery: “the most ‘villagey’ one, themost Manchegan of the lot,” MaríaJosé Campo claims proudly. She runsits wine tourism department, locatedin a 19th-century bodega, sensitivelyrestored to keep its original structureintact as much as possible. Itsvarious rooms are organized arounda traditional cobblestone courtyard,which on summer nights sometimesserves as a makeshift theater forclassical music concerts. Althoughmost La Mancha wines are made tobe drunk young, wood is starting toplay an increasingly important rolein the region’s bodegas. InCastilblanque’s cask room we tastedsix reds and, under the oenologist’sguidance, detected the qualitiesinstilled into them by differentwoods.The casks at Finca Los Nevadosoccupy a much bigger hall, with aroof supported by high, iron arches,but this comes later in the itinerary.Beforehand, we take a horse-drawncarriage tour around the winery’s200 ha (494 acres) of vineyard. Aswe go, the vineyard manager is keento stress the point that the down-market bulk-wine image attached toLa Mancha for so many years is still

impeding recognition of the region’strue situation today. “Of course, hugecooperatives shifting vast quantitiesstill exist,” he says, “but beside themare dozens of wine-growers,ourselves among them, who haveopted for quality wines and small-scale production.” Visitors get thechance to test the results of thisapproach in the bodega’s restaurant.The cuisine, a creative take on theManchegan tradition, isaccompanied by wines whose exactvineyard provenance is proudlyspecified.Pago del Vicario, in Ciudad Real, wasalso created along the lines of aFrench wine chateau. Its vineyardsextend around buildings designed toblend discreetly into theirsurroundings, and in addition to thewinery itself, these include a luxuryhotel and a restaurant. This waswhere we tasted Manchego cheese forthe first time on this trip, and it wasexcellent. Manchego cheese, which isprotected by a designation of origin,is made exclusively with milk fromsheep of the Manchega breed whichroam freely about this dry terrain,feeding on scrub, stubble and acorns.It is a fatty, slightly piquant, saltycheese, which is matched beautifullyby the fruitiness and herbaceousaromas of a young La Mancha red.

The family that owns Pago del Vicarioalso runs the little Villadiego cheesefactory where all the cheeses areartisan-made from raw milk obtainedfrom Manchega sheep.

SouthernLa ManchaIt’s a long way between one bodegaand another in the biggestwinegrowing area in the world, butthis at least gives one a chance to stopoff occasionally en route to combinethe main purpose of ourtrip–wine–with other interests such asart, nature, movies, etc. Part of PedroAlmodóvar’s film Volver was shot inAlmagro, in the heart of the Campode Calatrava. “I love the severity ofthese streets, the stones underfoot,the black iron windows unadornedby flower pots or any otherdecoration, the dark socles, the brightdaylight.” Such were the La Mancha-born filmmaker’s impressions of thetown during filming. But in additionto the quiet streets and noble houses,Almagro’s attractions also include the17th-century Corral de Comedias,Spain’s only surviving Golden Agetheater, which hosts the InternationalFestival of Classical Theater everysummer.

48 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 49

proudly declares. A huge collectionof photographs of celebrities,politicians and rabbis adorns thebakery’s dark walls. Unsurprisingly,La Tahona de Herminia is a regularport of call for the thousands ofpeople who travel Spain’s SephardicRoute each year.We have been nibbling as we go, andour appetites have been whetted forserious food. We decide to try a pre-matched food-and-wine meal: theCasal de Armán winery has afabulous restaurant where every dishis served with a Ribeiro wine whilethe bodega’s oenologistsimultaneously conducts a guidedtasting. And this is just the start of itswine tourism orientated repertoire:rural accommodation amid itsvineyards, an invitation to take partin the grape harvest and suggestedcycling routes for exploring themany medieval roads that crisscrossthe comarca are among the rest.Running the risk of getting lost, weshun main roads in favor of lesser,narrower ones that wind through thelandscape of fields of vines, lushwoods, babbling brooks and littlevillages where time has stood still.The cobblestone streets of Pazos deArenteiro, with their many statelyhouses, have been true witnesses tothis region’s glorious past. Many of

these rural mansions, all butabandoned today, were once home toknights of the Order of Malta,successors to other warrior monks,the Knights Templar. These houseswere built from the proceeds of thewine trade, and many of them stillhave cool, dark wine cellars beneaththem. The tombstones interspersedamong the paving stones inside thevillage’s Romanesque church are, bydefinition, those of eminent localfigures: only the well-off could haveafforded this honor, for which theywould have paid in kind, specificallywine.

The land of DonQuixoteWe exchange inland Galicia’s rollinggreen hills for La Mancha’s endlessplain. Though the summer heat hasnot yet yellowed the cereal fieldswhich alternate with vineyards,within a few weeks the vastlandscape flashing by the windowsof our train will look verydifferent–more austere andunwelcoming, suitable territory forthe more intrepid traveler. LaMancha is inconceivably huge–it isthe biggest winegrowing region inthe word–and the variety within it

and a wine culture stretching backinto the past give it a seductivequality.After gazing out for hours on end atvineyard after vineyard as far as theeye can see, our attention happilyfalls upon instantly recognizableshapes in the distance. “At this pointthey came in sight of 30 or 40windmills on that plain,” Miguel deCervantes wrote in the 17th century,describing this same scene. Wecount ten of the windmills that theKnight of the Woeful Countenancemistook for giants. Some areperfectly preserved, as they were stillin use until only 50 years ago andstill have their original mechanismswhich are put into action every nowand again “so that they don’t getrusty,” our guide explains. Othershave been converted into attractivelittle museums devoted to suchthemes as farming, poetry and, ofcourse, wine. Don Quixote’sweakness for wine earned tartcomments from his faithful squireSancho Panza, such as: “Hecommended the wine so highly thathe praised it to the skies, though hedid not risk leaving it there for longin case it turned into water.”Campo de Criptana’s famouswindmills crown a little town of lowhouses painted white and indigo and

WINE TOURISM II

AROUND&ABOUT

WINE TOURISM II

AROUND&ABOUT

04-enoturismo.qxd 19/7/07 12:57 Página 48 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

enoturismo AF.qxd 12/7/07 01:08 Página 50

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 51

WINE TOURISM II

AROUND&ABOUT

50 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

WINE TOURISM II

AROUND&ABOUT

Nearby, heading southwards, lies theterritory covered by one of otheroldest designations of origin inSpain–Valdepeñas. In its capital, thetown of the same name, with itsurban wineries, bars and fiestas,wine and its culture are everywhere.The town is at its most quintessentialduring the first week of Septembereach year when it celebrates itsFiesta del Vino, a wine festival thatalso has religious, cultural andgastronomic facets. At other times ofthe year, a visit to the Museo delVino provides ready access toinformation about the region’svinicultural history. The museum ishoused in a traditional 19th-centurywinery where time seems to havestood still. Arranged around itscentral courtyard, under the cover ofits arcade, is a collection of oldvineyard tools and equipment. Butthe museum’s prize exhibit is animportant collection of photographsby the American photographer,Harry Gordon. Taken in the 1950s,the black-and-white photographs areof peasants harvesting grapes,transporting them to the bodega incarts, treading them, dancing andlaughing. Some feature huge,earthenware tinajas (jars) identical tothose in the cool, dark cellar beneath

our feet. In the past, tinajas weretraditionally used for storing wineuntil it was ready for sale, but theywere gradually usurped by casks andeventually relegated to the role ofdecorative objects, often seen in thestreets and parks. Even so, somewinery-owners still adhere to old-fashioned methods. Dionisio deNova is an “ecological” winemakerwho makes his biodynamic winesguided by astral positions andcosmic rhythms. Our little group’svisit to his family winery drew to aclose in a pleasant little room withan open fireplace. This turned out tobe the tasting room, and as we tastedwe were regaled with fascinatingtales involving mythology, the phasesof the moon and constellations inaddition to the more usualinformation regarding color, aromaand flavor.A network of transhumance roadsknown as Cañadas Realescrisscrosses the Iberian Peninsula.Several of them used to traverse theValdepeñas region, linking theMediterranean coast and southernSpain. Travelers through this part ofthe country in the 17th centurywould have stopped at theMarisánchez, a venta (roadside inn)that then stood on the site now

occupied by Bodegas Reales. “Likeall ventas in those days, it was agathering place for shepherds andmerchants and, as such, it was aplace for commercial and culturalexchange,” explains Julián Alcolea,Bodegas Real’s wine tourismmanager. When old buildings wererenovated, the living accommodationwas restored and other, modern,elements were added to the complex,though still maintaining the spirit ofa typical La Mancha venta. Therestaurant, located in former winerybuildings, serves a delicious arrozcon perdiz (rice with partridge).Partridge move around freely in theshooting reserve that surroundsBodegas Real, as do wood pigeon,hare and even the occasional wildboar.

Way down southBetween the plateau of La Manchaand the east coast stretch known asLevante lies the town of Jumilla.Historically a crossroads for severalcivilizations, it retains traces of all ofthem. From its majestic, originallymedieval castle, one looks out over arocky, stony…and vine-growinglandscape. The variety grown here isMonastrell, acclimatized to tough

Sherry is said to be unique, anoenological triumph on a par with otherlegendary wines such as Sauternes andPort. The fascination exerted by itscomplex ageing method–the result ofknow-how accumulated from variouscivilizations–is further enhanced by otherattractions that contribute to itsmystique: monumental winery buildings,the sherry-flamenco link, the maritimeconnection, etc. And whereas winetourism may be a new phenomenon inmost other wine-growing areas, Jerezand its region have been welcomingvisitors from all over the world for thebetter part of a century. It has a headstart compared to the rest andexperience is always an advantage. Thispart of southern Spain has capitalized onit cleverly, becoming an outstanding winedestination in the process. The local winery owners never tire oftelling the story of sherry and what aninternational wine it has always been. It’sa good story whoever tells it, but theOsborne winery in Puerto de Santa Maríaactually brings it to life. Dramatizedevents staged there reveal theinvolvement of the Phoenicians, Greeks,Arabs and even English pirates in thesherry story, and are a great attraction onsummer nights. “In the 16th century, SirFrancis Drake plundered various shipsand took the spoils–3,000 casks ofsherry wine, back to London with him,”whispers one of the interpreters from alittle improvised stage between two rowsof stacked casks. The plundered sherrywas well-received in England and

became fashionable in the court, we aretold, and as a result, Britain eventuallybecame the main customer for sherrywines. This fact was instrumental inshaping the sherry we know today: thelong sea voyages involved in trade withBritain made it necessary to fortify thewine with alcohol to prevent its turninginto vinegar in transit. Although moderntransport imposes far less wear and tear,this winemaking practice is still carriedout and is now a characteristic feature ofthe wines from the sherry region. Before conducting further on-the-spotresearch into the famous sherry-agingmethod, we decide to explore thevineyard landscape that stretchesbetween this DO’s constituentmunicipalities (DO Denominaciones deOrigen Jerez–Xérès–Sherry,Manzanilla–Sanlúcar de Barrameda andVinagre de Jerez) and the sea. From thevantage point of Domecq’s Castillo deMacharnudo, there is an unrivalledpanoramic view of gently undulatingwhite hills dotted with green vineplantations. “This white, chalky albarizasoil is ideal for grape growing,” explainsthe commercial department’s RocíoBenítez. “It not only retains the rainfall,which in this area tends to beconcentrated in the winter months, but italso reflects light which helps ripening.”Out in the vineyards we see bunches ofwhite Palomino grapes, the all-butabsolute protagonist of sherry wines.The Atlantic Ocean is a vivid blue strip inthe distance, and we’re aware of its seabreezes wafting around us. Today’s

westerly wind is cool and damp, thediametric opposite of the much warmer,drier, easterly wind which does the wine-aging process no favors. Equipped withexperience accumulated over manygenerations, the winemakers of thesherry region know how to capitalize onthe former and keep the latter at bay.Indeed, their wineries are designed tothis end, leaving nothing to chance. Theirorientation, always facing the sea, theirheight and the materials with which theyare built are all dictated by function.Impressed by their grandeur, the 19th-century British traveler Richard Forddubbed these bodegas “Cathedrals ofWine”, yet their vast proportions are aconsequence of functional, rather thanaesthetic, criteria. Having toured theCaballero Group’s Lustau winery, werealize that the ceilings are as high asthey are–up to 14 m (46 ft)–to moderatethe heat in summer. “Our forefathersrelied on their own know-how to keepthe temperature constant. If it worked forthem, why should we need airconditioning?” asks export directorFederico Sanchez with a smile. Thewindows, placed high up on the walls,are hung with esparto blinds which let inmoisture and keep out light. The floorsbeneath our feet are made ofcompressed albero, the type of sandused in bullrings, and are periodicallysprinkled with water to keep theatmosphere cool throughout the day.Meanwhile, walls up to 1 m (3.3 ft) thickkeep out much of the sun’s heat. Built onthe proceeds and for the benefit of wine,

J E R E Z : A W O R L D P I O N E E R

04-enoturismo.qxd 19/7/07 12:59 Página 50 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

enoturismo AF.qxd 12/7/07 01:08 Página 50

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 51

WINE TOURISM II

AROUND&ABOUT

50 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

WINE TOURISM II

AROUND&ABOUT

Nearby, heading southwards, lies theterritory covered by one of otheroldest designations of origin inSpain–Valdepeñas. In its capital, thetown of the same name, with itsurban wineries, bars and fiestas,wine and its culture are everywhere.The town is at its most quintessentialduring the first week of Septembereach year when it celebrates itsFiesta del Vino, a wine festival thatalso has religious, cultural andgastronomic facets. At other times ofthe year, a visit to the Museo delVino provides ready access toinformation about the region’svinicultural history. The museum ishoused in a traditional 19th-centurywinery where time seems to havestood still. Arranged around itscentral courtyard, under the cover ofits arcade, is a collection of oldvineyard tools and equipment. Butthe museum’s prize exhibit is animportant collection of photographsby the American photographer,Harry Gordon. Taken in the 1950s,the black-and-white photographs areof peasants harvesting grapes,transporting them to the bodega incarts, treading them, dancing andlaughing. Some feature huge,earthenware tinajas (jars) identical tothose in the cool, dark cellar beneath

our feet. In the past, tinajas weretraditionally used for storing wineuntil it was ready for sale, but theywere gradually usurped by casks andeventually relegated to the role ofdecorative objects, often seen in thestreets and parks. Even so, somewinery-owners still adhere to old-fashioned methods. Dionisio deNova is an “ecological” winemakerwho makes his biodynamic winesguided by astral positions andcosmic rhythms. Our little group’svisit to his family winery drew to aclose in a pleasant little room withan open fireplace. This turned out tobe the tasting room, and as we tastedwe were regaled with fascinatingtales involving mythology, the phasesof the moon and constellations inaddition to the more usualinformation regarding color, aromaand flavor.A network of transhumance roadsknown as Cañadas Realescrisscrosses the Iberian Peninsula.Several of them used to traverse theValdepeñas region, linking theMediterranean coast and southernSpain. Travelers through this part ofthe country in the 17th centurywould have stopped at theMarisánchez, a venta (roadside inn)that then stood on the site now

occupied by Bodegas Reales. “Likeall ventas in those days, it was agathering place for shepherds andmerchants and, as such, it was aplace for commercial and culturalexchange,” explains Julián Alcolea,Bodegas Real’s wine tourismmanager. When old buildings wererenovated, the living accommodationwas restored and other, modern,elements were added to the complex,though still maintaining the spirit ofa typical La Mancha venta. Therestaurant, located in former winerybuildings, serves a delicious arrozcon perdiz (rice with partridge).Partridge move around freely in theshooting reserve that surroundsBodegas Real, as do wood pigeon,hare and even the occasional wildboar.

Way down southBetween the plateau of La Manchaand the east coast stretch known asLevante lies the town of Jumilla.Historically a crossroads for severalcivilizations, it retains traces of all ofthem. From its majestic, originallymedieval castle, one looks out over arocky, stony…and vine-growinglandscape. The variety grown here isMonastrell, acclimatized to tough

Sherry is said to be unique, anoenological triumph on a par with otherlegendary wines such as Sauternes andPort. The fascination exerted by itscomplex ageing method–the result ofknow-how accumulated from variouscivilizations–is further enhanced by otherattractions that contribute to itsmystique: monumental winery buildings,the sherry-flamenco link, the maritimeconnection, etc. And whereas winetourism may be a new phenomenon inmost other wine-growing areas, Jerezand its region have been welcomingvisitors from all over the world for thebetter part of a century. It has a headstart compared to the rest andexperience is always an advantage. Thispart of southern Spain has capitalized onit cleverly, becoming an outstanding winedestination in the process. The local winery owners never tire oftelling the story of sherry and what aninternational wine it has always been. It’sa good story whoever tells it, but theOsborne winery in Puerto de Santa Maríaactually brings it to life. Dramatizedevents staged there reveal theinvolvement of the Phoenicians, Greeks,Arabs and even English pirates in thesherry story, and are a great attraction onsummer nights. “In the 16th century, SirFrancis Drake plundered various shipsand took the spoils–3,000 casks ofsherry wine, back to London with him,”whispers one of the interpreters from alittle improvised stage between two rowsof stacked casks. The plundered sherrywas well-received in England and

became fashionable in the court, we aretold, and as a result, Britain eventuallybecame the main customer for sherrywines. This fact was instrumental inshaping the sherry we know today: thelong sea voyages involved in trade withBritain made it necessary to fortify thewine with alcohol to prevent its turninginto vinegar in transit. Although moderntransport imposes far less wear and tear,this winemaking practice is still carriedout and is now a characteristic feature ofthe wines from the sherry region. Before conducting further on-the-spotresearch into the famous sherry-agingmethod, we decide to explore thevineyard landscape that stretchesbetween this DO’s constituentmunicipalities (DO Denominaciones deOrigen Jerez–Xérès–Sherry,Manzanilla–Sanlúcar de Barrameda andVinagre de Jerez) and the sea. From thevantage point of Domecq’s Castillo deMacharnudo, there is an unrivalledpanoramic view of gently undulatingwhite hills dotted with green vineplantations. “This white, chalky albarizasoil is ideal for grape growing,” explainsthe commercial department’s RocíoBenítez. “It not only retains the rainfall,which in this area tends to beconcentrated in the winter months, but italso reflects light which helps ripening.”Out in the vineyards we see bunches ofwhite Palomino grapes, the all-butabsolute protagonist of sherry wines.The Atlantic Ocean is a vivid blue strip inthe distance, and we’re aware of its seabreezes wafting around us. Today’s

westerly wind is cool and damp, thediametric opposite of the much warmer,drier, easterly wind which does the wine-aging process no favors. Equipped withexperience accumulated over manygenerations, the winemakers of thesherry region know how to capitalize onthe former and keep the latter at bay.Indeed, their wineries are designed tothis end, leaving nothing to chance. Theirorientation, always facing the sea, theirheight and the materials with which theyare built are all dictated by function.Impressed by their grandeur, the 19th-century British traveler Richard Forddubbed these bodegas “Cathedrals ofWine”, yet their vast proportions are aconsequence of functional, rather thanaesthetic, criteria. Having toured theCaballero Group’s Lustau winery, werealize that the ceilings are as high asthey are–up to 14 m (46 ft)–to moderatethe heat in summer. “Our forefathersrelied on their own know-how to keepthe temperature constant. If it worked forthem, why should we need airconditioning?” asks export directorFederico Sanchez with a smile. Thewindows, placed high up on the walls,are hung with esparto blinds which let inmoisture and keep out light. The floorsbeneath our feet are made ofcompressed albero, the type of sandused in bullrings, and are periodicallysprinkled with water to keep theatmosphere cool throughout the day.Meanwhile, walls up to 1 m (3.3 ft) thickkeep out much of the sun’s heat. Built onthe proceeds and for the benefit of wine,

J E R E Z : A W O R L D P I O N E E R

04-enoturismo.qxd 19/7/07 12:59 Página 50 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

enoturismo AF.qxd 12/7/07 01:08 Página 52

climatic conditions and able to thrivewith long periods of hot sun. Formany decades, robust Jumilla winewas sold in bulk as a reinforcer forother, feebler, European wines.However, all that changed in the1990s when several winery ownersresolved to prove that Monastrellcould yield quality wines that werepowerful, expressive, fruity and darkwith violet hues, their alcoholicstrength counterweighed bybalanced acidity. Agapito Rico wasone of the leading figures of thiswinemaking revolution. His winerymakes splendid wines under theCarchelo label for which he uses, inaddition to Monastrell, other foreignvarieties such as Merlot, Shiraz andCabernet Sauvignon. The Jumillaroute’s wine tourism attractionsinclude, in addition to its wineries,the informative Museo del Vino JuanCarcelén and picturesque localFiestas de la Vendimia at grapeharvest time.The domain of the Monastrell grapeextends southwards into Bullas, oneof Spain’s youngest DOs and yet, orperhaps therefore, one of the mostactive in the area of wine tourism.Bullas shares both climate andpredominant grape variety with itsnorthern neighbor in Murcia, yet

manages to produce wines that bearthe singular stamp of its precipitouslandscape, villages and people. Thisis an area that respects tradition. InCaravaca de la Cruz, for example,the local people celebrate athrillingly vivid fiesta known asCaballos del Vino (Wine Horses),which commemorates a legendaryepisode in the town’s history. Thelegend as related today tells ofCaravaca’s being besieged by theMuslim kingdom of Granada. Whenthe water supply showed signs ofrunning low, a group of TemplarKnights mounted on horsebackbroke their way through thesurrounding attackers, then gallopedback bearing big skins of wine tosatiate the thirst of the townspeople.Every May 2nd, for many centuries,horses have been ridden, at a gallop,up and down the steep hill to thecastle, cheered on by thousands ofpeople.The place to learn about Murcia’swinegrowing history is Bullas’ Museodel Vino, located within the walls ofa centuries-old winery which stillretains many of its old earthenwaretinajas. Another informative visit,this one more lively andparticipatory, takes place on the firstSunday of every month. Timed to

coincide with El Zacatín market,which sells regional, artisan-produced foodstuffs, the nearbywineries open their doors to thepublic–an excellent opportunity totaste their wines and understand justwhy they are creating such a stir onthe global wine scene.The white variety Pedro Ximénez(PX) is to Montilla-Moriles what thered Monastrell is to Bullas andJumilla. This variety with its thin,almost transparent, skin enjoys itsideal habitat in this little area ofAndalusia: not much moisture,plenty of hot weather, and around2,500 hours of sunshine a year.Although the PX grape dominatesthe varietal map, it shares adominance of the landscape withcereal and olive crops–the classicMediterranean trilogy. Consequently,this wine route can be supplementedby a visit to an oil mill or olivegrove.Montilla-Moriles’ wine types–finos,amontillados, olorosos–and its solerasystem and “nurseries” are similar tothose of Jerez, with the importantdifference being that in this region tothe south of Córdoba, the wines donot need to be fortified with winealcohol. Thanks to the naturalsweetness of the PX grape, wines

52 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 53

the sherry bodegas are both practicaland aesthetically pleasing. With minorvariations, the same 18th-centuryarchitectural model is replicated in mostwineries in the region and all harbor thesecret that makes sherry so inimitable.The singular crianza (aging) method usedfor sherry wines takes place in a systemof casks organized into rows three orfour high, containing wine of differentages. It is essentially a dynamic methodin which the youngest wines are mixedwith older ones so that they acquire theircharacteristics. References to specificsherry vintages are thereforemeaningless: the relevant time referenceis the average period spent in the crianzasystem, and this is never shorter thanthree years and can be as long as 30.“We are determined to tell the worldabout the hidden wonders of thesewines,” declares Eduardo Serrano,manager of Bodegas Valdivia. To thatend, they have ensured that a visit totheir premises is a real learningexperience. Right from the start we areplunged into the very epicenter of thesherry world with an engaging, audio-visual show. In the winery itself, wewatch as the cellar master wields hisvenencia (an instrument composed of acylindrical container attached to a long,flexible handle) to extract small quantitiesof wine from the casks, testing theircontents one by one before mixing them.“We aim to tap into sherry’s lively,entertaining, youthful facets,” stressesEduardo. “That’s why we’re promoting itas drink of choice at palos de flamenco

and potajes gitanos (flamenco events):sherry is interwoven with all aspects ofour culture.” And other cultures, too, weobserve upon discovering that they offertai-chi classes in the vineyards. Indeed,sherry lends itself to cultural fusion morethan most wines. Top chefs have beenknown to combine it with oriental disheslike sushi, sashimi and even Vietnamesespring rolls (Spain Gourmetour No. 13).La Villa del Duque, the quintessentiallyAndalusian-style guest house besidetheir winery, is the icing on the cake ofValdivia’s wine tourism attractions. Inaddition to the usual “per night”arrangement, it offers its comfortablerooms by the hour during the day so thatvisitors can enjoy the benefits of a classicSpanish siesta.Not far away is another venture whoseaim is to reveal the secrets of sherry. TheMisterio de Jerez museum occupies aformer winery building with its classic,porticoed Andalusian patio withwhite–washed walls, cobbled floor andwrought-iron wellhead still intact. Thewineries around here are like miniaturetowns with their paved streets, littlesquares and lovely gardens. At GonzálezByass, the most-visited winery complexin Europe, a little train carries the morethan 200,000 visitors that come hereevery year around the extensive site incomfort. It comprises six wineries, one ofthe most famous being La Concha,designed by architect Gustave Eiffel ofParisian tower fame. Arranged within thisshell-shaped, iron-framed building are115 casks decorated with as many

national flags–further proof of how widelysherry is exported.Drop into an Andalusian bar just beforelunchtime (never earlier than 2 pm in thispart of Spain) any day of the week andfind yourself a place at the counter. Youwill soon become aware that sherry isthe drink of choice, with a little dish ofolives, boiled crayfish or finely-slicedcured Ibérico ham on the side. But it ismore than an aperitif wine, it is versatileenough to take to the table. El GalloAzul, in Jerez’s old quarter, and El Faro,in Puerto de Santa María, offer a tastingmenu in which each dish is matched witha different type of sherry. Dry, light finoand manzanilla are served with tapasand seafood, the smoothness of anamontillado provides the perfect foil forwhite meats and cured cheeses, whileoloroso, with its penetrating, nuttyaromas, is an excellent match for stews,game and red meat. Should you be luckyenough to find an empty table at CasaBigote, an informal bar/restaurant inSanlúcar’s fishermen’s quarter, jump atthe chance to sample impeccably friedpescadito frito (assorted fish) and a glassof chilled sherry. Sublime simplicity.

04-enoturismo.qxd 19/7/07 13:01 Página 52 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

enoturismo AF.qxd 12/7/07 01:08 Página 52

climatic conditions and able to thrivewith long periods of hot sun. Formany decades, robust Jumilla winewas sold in bulk as a reinforcer forother, feebler, European wines.However, all that changed in the1990s when several winery ownersresolved to prove that Monastrellcould yield quality wines that werepowerful, expressive, fruity and darkwith violet hues, their alcoholicstrength counterweighed bybalanced acidity. Agapito Rico wasone of the leading figures of thiswinemaking revolution. His winerymakes splendid wines under theCarchelo label for which he uses, inaddition to Monastrell, other foreignvarieties such as Merlot, Shiraz andCabernet Sauvignon. The Jumillaroute’s wine tourism attractionsinclude, in addition to its wineries,the informative Museo del Vino JuanCarcelén and picturesque localFiestas de la Vendimia at grapeharvest time.The domain of the Monastrell grapeextends southwards into Bullas, oneof Spain’s youngest DOs and yet, orperhaps therefore, one of the mostactive in the area of wine tourism.Bullas shares both climate andpredominant grape variety with itsnorthern neighbor in Murcia, yet

manages to produce wines that bearthe singular stamp of its precipitouslandscape, villages and people. Thisis an area that respects tradition. InCaravaca de la Cruz, for example,the local people celebrate athrillingly vivid fiesta known asCaballos del Vino (Wine Horses),which commemorates a legendaryepisode in the town’s history. Thelegend as related today tells ofCaravaca’s being besieged by theMuslim kingdom of Granada. Whenthe water supply showed signs ofrunning low, a group of TemplarKnights mounted on horsebackbroke their way through thesurrounding attackers, then gallopedback bearing big skins of wine tosatiate the thirst of the townspeople.Every May 2nd, for many centuries,horses have been ridden, at a gallop,up and down the steep hill to thecastle, cheered on by thousands ofpeople.The place to learn about Murcia’swinegrowing history is Bullas’ Museodel Vino, located within the walls ofa centuries-old winery which stillretains many of its old earthenwaretinajas. Another informative visit,this one more lively andparticipatory, takes place on the firstSunday of every month. Timed to

coincide with El Zacatín market,which sells regional, artisan-produced foodstuffs, the nearbywineries open their doors to thepublic–an excellent opportunity totaste their wines and understand justwhy they are creating such a stir onthe global wine scene.The white variety Pedro Ximénez(PX) is to Montilla-Moriles what thered Monastrell is to Bullas andJumilla. This variety with its thin,almost transparent, skin enjoys itsideal habitat in this little area ofAndalusia: not much moisture,plenty of hot weather, and around2,500 hours of sunshine a year.Although the PX grape dominatesthe varietal map, it shares adominance of the landscape withcereal and olive crops–the classicMediterranean trilogy. Consequently,this wine route can be supplementedby a visit to an oil mill or olivegrove.Montilla-Moriles’ wine types–finos,amontillados, olorosos–and its solerasystem and “nurseries” are similar tothose of Jerez, with the importantdifference being that in this region tothe south of Córdoba, the wines donot need to be fortified with winealcohol. Thanks to the naturalsweetness of the PX grape, wines

52 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 53

the sherry bodegas are both practicaland aesthetically pleasing. With minorvariations, the same 18th-centuryarchitectural model is replicated in mostwineries in the region and all harbor thesecret that makes sherry so inimitable.The singular crianza (aging) method usedfor sherry wines takes place in a systemof casks organized into rows three orfour high, containing wine of differentages. It is essentially a dynamic methodin which the youngest wines are mixedwith older ones so that they acquire theircharacteristics. References to specificsherry vintages are thereforemeaningless: the relevant time referenceis the average period spent in the crianzasystem, and this is never shorter thanthree years and can be as long as 30.“We are determined to tell the worldabout the hidden wonders of thesewines,” declares Eduardo Serrano,manager of Bodegas Valdivia. To thatend, they have ensured that a visit totheir premises is a real learningexperience. Right from the start we areplunged into the very epicenter of thesherry world with an engaging, audio-visual show. In the winery itself, wewatch as the cellar master wields hisvenencia (an instrument composed of acylindrical container attached to a long,flexible handle) to extract small quantitiesof wine from the casks, testing theircontents one by one before mixing them.“We aim to tap into sherry’s lively,entertaining, youthful facets,” stressesEduardo. “That’s why we’re promoting itas drink of choice at palos de flamenco

and potajes gitanos (flamenco events):sherry is interwoven with all aspects ofour culture.” And other cultures, too, weobserve upon discovering that they offertai-chi classes in the vineyards. Indeed,sherry lends itself to cultural fusion morethan most wines. Top chefs have beenknown to combine it with oriental disheslike sushi, sashimi and even Vietnamesespring rolls (Spain Gourmetour No. 13).La Villa del Duque, the quintessentiallyAndalusian-style guest house besidetheir winery, is the icing on the cake ofValdivia’s wine tourism attractions. Inaddition to the usual “per night”arrangement, it offers its comfortablerooms by the hour during the day so thatvisitors can enjoy the benefits of a classicSpanish siesta.Not far away is another venture whoseaim is to reveal the secrets of sherry. TheMisterio de Jerez museum occupies aformer winery building with its classic,porticoed Andalusian patio withwhite–washed walls, cobbled floor andwrought-iron wellhead still intact. Thewineries around here are like miniaturetowns with their paved streets, littlesquares and lovely gardens. At GonzálezByass, the most-visited winery complexin Europe, a little train carries the morethan 200,000 visitors that come hereevery year around the extensive site incomfort. It comprises six wineries, one ofthe most famous being La Concha,designed by architect Gustave Eiffel ofParisian tower fame. Arranged within thisshell-shaped, iron-framed building are115 casks decorated with as many

national flags–further proof of how widelysherry is exported.Drop into an Andalusian bar just beforelunchtime (never earlier than 2 pm in thispart of Spain) any day of the week andfind yourself a place at the counter. Youwill soon become aware that sherry isthe drink of choice, with a little dish ofolives, boiled crayfish or finely-slicedcured Ibérico ham on the side. But it ismore than an aperitif wine, it is versatileenough to take to the table. El GalloAzul, in Jerez’s old quarter, and El Faro,in Puerto de Santa María, offer a tastingmenu in which each dish is matched witha different type of sherry. Dry, light finoand manzanilla are served with tapasand seafood, the smoothness of anamontillado provides the perfect foil forwhite meats and cured cheeses, whileoloroso, with its penetrating, nuttyaromas, is an excellent match for stews,game and red meat. Should you be luckyenough to find an empty table at CasaBigote, an informal bar/restaurant inSanlúcar’s fishermen’s quarter, jump atthe chance to sample impeccably friedpescadito frito (assorted fish) and a glassof chilled sherry. Sublime simplicity.

04-enoturismo.qxd 19/7/07 13:01 Página 52 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

enoturismo AF.qxd 16/7/07 22:15 Página 54

54 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 55

made here reach 15° of alcohol withrelative ease. For this DO’s sweeterwines–known by the varietal nameand famously eulogized RobertParker–first the grape’s water contentmust evaporate and then all theircomponents must becomeconcentrated (Spain Gourmetour No.59). Harvested bunches of PX grapesspread out on dozens of esparto matsto dry slowly in the sun are atimelessly picturesque sight. Wine tourists in this area will alsoenjoy the charming pueblos blancos(white villages) in Montilla andLucena, observing the artisan workthat still goes on in family wine-presses, many of which are locatedin the actual vineyards, and visitingthe Museo del Aceite (Olive OilMuseum) in nearby Cabra.Contrasting with Montilla-Moriles’luminous, white, chalky albariza soilare the dark, volcanic soils of theCanary Islands in the AtlanticOcean. The archipelago’s vineyardswere unaffected by phylloxera andconsequently still possess uniquegrape varieties. Some of these, grownat over 1,700 m (5,572 ft), boast theEuropean altitude record, whileothers grow at barely 100 m

(328 ft) above sea level.Despite their small size, the islandshave a surprising ten designations oforigin. DO Tacoronte-Acentejo, onthe northeastern edge of Tenerife, isoutstanding and offers world-classwine tourism. Making wine in thispart of Spain calls for engineeringand effort, as vines survive inaccidented terrain crossed by narrowvalleys and gorges, always close tothe coastline. Just as in Galicia, thevines occupy terraces carved out ofrock and grapes are alwayslaboriously harvested by hand. Avisit to this region must include thebeautiful, old town of San Cristóbalde La Laguna, declared a UNESCOWorld Heritage Site based on itsmore than 600 historic buildingsand the layout of its streets, stillintact since it was founded in the16th century. The Casa del Vino LaBaranda, in El Sauzal, is theCanaries’ wine promotion HQ: mostof the wines in question are youngreds made from the native varietiesListán Negro and Negramoll. A visithere plunges visitors into the islands’wine culture: a wine museum relatesits history while a tasting room,restaurant and wine bar/store

provide the chance to immediatelyexperience the product.The Canaries beautifully exemplifyhow much potential there is for winetourism in Spain, already one of theworld’s major tourist magnets andwine producers. Though these twoareas of expertise have been aware ofeach other for only a few years, thesynergy between them is starting toshow results. And there’s plentymore where that came from.

Celia Hernando is a journalist whosemedia experience includes working forCadena Ser and Punto Radio. She iscurrently part of the staff at SpainGourmetour.

What with compiling itineraries, lists of wineries, visiting hours, addresses of wine bars, restaurants and hotels and the like,organizing a wine tourism trip might at first seem dauntingly complicated. However, in addition to the usual tourist office leafletsand useful websites, there are several specialist guides to ensure that you get the best out of your route.

Rutas por los vinos de España (Routes among the vines in Spain), Francesc Ribes. Spanish. This guide is particularlysuitable for budding wine culture enthusiasts in that it includes basic information useful for interpreting a world that beginnerssometimes find baffling. It suggests 38 routes through different designations of origin chosen to represent the diversity ofSpanish wines. Although it focuses primarily on the best-known wineries of each region, it also covers other resources such asrestaurants, wine museums, accommodation, buildings of interest and the natural environment. (El País Aguilar; elpaisaguilar@santillana.es)

Guía del turismo del vino en España (Guide to wine tourism in Spain), Ignacio Medina. Spanish.This comprehensive guide to wine tourism in Spain covers all its designations of origin, organized by autonomous community.The first chapter covers essential information about viticulture, climate, soil types, winemaking methods and the grape varietiesmost frequently grown in Spain. Winery, restaurant and specialist wine shop details are supplemented by historical data relevantto each route and detailed road maps. (Anaya Touring–Grupo Anaya; anayatouring_internacional@anaya.es)

Hoteles con viñedo (Hotels with vineyards), Pedro Madera. Spanish.A rigorous selection of some of the best wine tourism hotels in Spain. Most are rural with privileged vineyard views, and somealso have their own wineries. There is a description of each hotel, followed by information about the surrounding area andexcursion suggestions, as well as information about the wine-growing area in which it is located.(El tercer nombre; info@eltercernombre.com)

F I N D I N G Y O U R W A Y

DO Rías Baixas

DO Ribeiro

DO Utiel-Requena

Cantabrian Sea

Mediterranean Sea

Atlantic Ocean

DO Navarra

DO La Mancha

DO Bullas

DO Jumilla

DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry and Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda

DO Montilla-Moriles

DO Tacoronte-Acentejo

FRANCEPamplona

OrensePontevedra

GAL I CIA

Madrid

Valencia

AUTONOMOUSCOMMUNITYOF VALENCIA

Toledo

Ciudad Real

Córdoba

Cádiz

Murcia

Santa Cruz de Tenerife

MURCIA

DO Valdepeñas

PORTUGAL

C A S T I L E L A M A N C H A

AN

DA L U C Í A

CA

N A R Y I S L A N D S

Campo de Criptana

Valdepeñas

Cambados

Jerez de la Frontera

N A V A R R

E

62 mi / 100 km

04-enoturismo.qxd 19/7/07 13:42 Página 54 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

enoturismo AF.qxd 16/7/07 22:15 Página 54

54 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 55

made here reach 15° of alcohol withrelative ease. For this DO’s sweeterwines–known by the varietal nameand famously eulogized RobertParker–first the grape’s water contentmust evaporate and then all theircomponents must becomeconcentrated (Spain Gourmetour No.59). Harvested bunches of PX grapesspread out on dozens of esparto matsto dry slowly in the sun are atimelessly picturesque sight. Wine tourists in this area will alsoenjoy the charming pueblos blancos(white villages) in Montilla andLucena, observing the artisan workthat still goes on in family wine-presses, many of which are locatedin the actual vineyards, and visitingthe Museo del Aceite (Olive OilMuseum) in nearby Cabra.Contrasting with Montilla-Moriles’luminous, white, chalky albariza soilare the dark, volcanic soils of theCanary Islands in the AtlanticOcean. The archipelago’s vineyardswere unaffected by phylloxera andconsequently still possess uniquegrape varieties. Some of these, grownat over 1,700 m (5,572 ft), boast theEuropean altitude record, whileothers grow at barely 100 m

(328 ft) above sea level.Despite their small size, the islandshave a surprising ten designations oforigin. DO Tacoronte-Acentejo, onthe northeastern edge of Tenerife, isoutstanding and offers world-classwine tourism. Making wine in thispart of Spain calls for engineeringand effort, as vines survive inaccidented terrain crossed by narrowvalleys and gorges, always close tothe coastline. Just as in Galicia, thevines occupy terraces carved out ofrock and grapes are alwayslaboriously harvested by hand. Avisit to this region must include thebeautiful, old town of San Cristóbalde La Laguna, declared a UNESCOWorld Heritage Site based on itsmore than 600 historic buildingsand the layout of its streets, stillintact since it was founded in the16th century. The Casa del Vino LaBaranda, in El Sauzal, is theCanaries’ wine promotion HQ: mostof the wines in question are youngreds made from the native varietiesListán Negro and Negramoll. A visithere plunges visitors into the islands’wine culture: a wine museum relatesits history while a tasting room,restaurant and wine bar/store

provide the chance to immediatelyexperience the product.The Canaries beautifully exemplifyhow much potential there is for winetourism in Spain, already one of theworld’s major tourist magnets andwine producers. Though these twoareas of expertise have been aware ofeach other for only a few years, thesynergy between them is starting toshow results. And there’s plentymore where that came from.

Celia Hernando is a journalist whosemedia experience includes working forCadena Ser and Punto Radio. She iscurrently part of the staff at SpainGourmetour.

What with compiling itineraries, lists of wineries, visiting hours, addresses of wine bars, restaurants and hotels and the like,organizing a wine tourism trip might at first seem dauntingly complicated. However, in addition to the usual tourist office leafletsand useful websites, there are several specialist guides to ensure that you get the best out of your route.

Rutas por los vinos de España (Routes among the vines in Spain), Francesc Ribes. Spanish. This guide is particularlysuitable for budding wine culture enthusiasts in that it includes basic information useful for interpreting a world that beginnerssometimes find baffling. It suggests 38 routes through different designations of origin chosen to represent the diversity ofSpanish wines. Although it focuses primarily on the best-known wineries of each region, it also covers other resources such asrestaurants, wine museums, accommodation, buildings of interest and the natural environment. (El País Aguilar; elpaisaguilar@santillana.es)

Guía del turismo del vino en España (Guide to wine tourism in Spain), Ignacio Medina. Spanish.This comprehensive guide to wine tourism in Spain covers all its designations of origin, organized by autonomous community.The first chapter covers essential information about viticulture, climate, soil types, winemaking methods and the grape varietiesmost frequently grown in Spain. Winery, restaurant and specialist wine shop details are supplemented by historical data relevantto each route and detailed road maps. (Anaya Touring–Grupo Anaya; anayatouring_internacional@anaya.es)

Hoteles con viñedo (Hotels with vineyards), Pedro Madera. Spanish.A rigorous selection of some of the best wine tourism hotels in Spain. Most are rural with privileged vineyard views, and somealso have their own wineries. There is a description of each hotel, followed by information about the surrounding area andexcursion suggestions, as well as information about the wine-growing area in which it is located.(El tercer nombre; info@eltercernombre.com)

F I N D I N G Y O U R W A Y

DO Rías Baixas

DO Ribeiro

DO Utiel-Requena

Cantabrian Sea

Mediterranean Sea

Atlantic Ocean

DO Navarra

DO La Mancha

DO Bullas

DO Jumilla

DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry and Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda

DO Montilla-Moriles

DO Tacoronte-Acentejo

FRANCEPamplona

OrensePontevedra

GAL I CIA

Madrid

Valencia

AUTONOMOUSCOMMUNITYOF VALENCIA

Toledo

Ciudad Real

Córdoba

Cádiz

Murcia

Santa Cruz de Tenerife

MURCIA

DO Valdepeñas

PORTUGAL

C A S T I L E L A M A N C H A

AN

DA L U C Í A

CA

N A R Y I S L A N D S

Campo de Criptana

Valdepeñas

Cambados

Jerez de la Frontera

N A V A R R

E

62 mi / 100 km

04-enoturismo.qxd 19/7/07 13:42 Página 54 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

enoturismo AF.qxd 12/7/07 01:10 Página 56

56 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 57

WINE TOURISM II

AROUND&ABOUT

W E B S I T E S

www.spain.info/tourspain/rutas+vinoTourespaña’s site includes a sectiondevoted entirely to Wine Routes. Itcovers eight wine-growingdestinations and provides useful infoabout related activities and services.(Chinese, English, French, German,Italian, Japanese, Spanish)

• Rías Baixas

www.rutadelvinoriasbaixas.comThe official Wine Route site. This region’swine tourism opportunities are organizedinto northern, southern, eastern andwestern itineraries. (English, Galician,Spanish)

www.doriasbaixas.comThe Regulatory Council of this DO’swebsite (English, Galician, Spanish)

Wineries:

Condes de Alberiwww.salnesur.es

Martin Codaxwww.martincodax.com

Palacio de Fefiñaneswww.fefinanes.com

• Ribeiro

www.ribeiro.esThe Regulatory Council of this DO’swebsite (Spanish)

Wineries:

Viña Costeirawww.vinoribeiro.com

Casal de Armánwww.casaldearman.net

• La Mancha

www.caminosdelvino.orgThe official Wine Route site (Spanish)

www.lamanchado.esThis DO’s website (English, Spanish)

Wineries:

Castiblanquewww.bodegascastiblanque.com

Finca Los Nevadoswww.fincalosnevados.es

Pago del Vicariowww.pagodelvicario.com

• Valdepeñas

www.dovaldepenas.esThe Regulatory Council of this DO’swebsite, including information about itsWine Route (English, Spanish)

Wineries:

Bodega Dionisoswww.labodegadelasestrellas.com

Bodegas Realwww.bodegas-real.com

• Jerez

www.rutadeljerezybrandy.esThis official Wine Route website covers allthe municipalities that make up the routeand gives details about their wineries,restaurants, hotels, opening times, anduseful addresses and telephone numbers.(English, Spanish)

www.sherry.orgThe Regulatory Council of this DO’swebsite (English, French, Spanish)

Wineries:

Grupo Osbornewww.osborne.es

Domecqwww.bodegasfundadorpedrodomecq.com

Emilio Lustauwww.lustau.es

Bodegas Valdiviawww.bodegasvaldivia.com

Bodegas González Byasswww.bodegastiopepe.com

• Jumilla

www.rutadelvinojumilla.comThe official Wine Route website. Itinerariesboth in town and in the surrounding areaare suggested. There is also acomprehensive calendar showing at whattimes of year specific vineyard tasks(harvest, pruning, grafting, etc.) are carriedout. (English, Spanish)

www.vinosdejumilla.orgThe Regulatory Council of this DO’swebsite (English, Spanish)

• Bullas

www.rutadelvino.bullas.esThe official Wine Route website. Differentlythemed routes are suggested, exploringBullas’ natural setting, the historic quartersof local towns and the area’s wineries.(Spanish)

www.bullas.esA joint website shared by the local authorityand the Regulatory Council of this DO(English, Spanish)

• Montilla-Moriles

www.rutadelvinomontillamoriles.comThe official Wine Route website. Threedifferent itineraries are designed to suitdifferent time frames. (English, French,German, Spanish)

www.montilla-moriles.org.The Regulatory Council of this DO’swebsite (Spanish)

• Tacoronte-Acentejo

www.rutasyvinos.comThe official Wine Route website. Sixdifferently themed itineraries aresuggested focusing on nature, culture,traditions, wineries and so on. (English,German, Spanish)

www.tacovin.comThe Regulatory Council of this DO’swebsite (Spanish)

• Navarre

www.rutadelvinodenavarra.comThe official Wine Route website(Spanish)

www.vinonavarra.comThe Regulatory Council of this DO’sofficial website (Spanish)

• Utiel-Requena

www.rutavino.comThe official Wine Route website. Adviceis offered for planning your trip anddifferent itinerary suggestions are gearedto the time available and visitors’specific interests. (English, Spanish)

www.utielrequena.orgThe Regulatory Council of this DO’sofficial website (English, Spanish)

04-enoturismo.qxd 14/7/07 16:09 Página 56 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

enoturismo AF.qxd 12/7/07 01:10 Página 56

56 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 57

WINE TOURISM II

AROUND&ABOUT

W E B S I T E S

www.spain.info/tourspain/rutas+vinoTourespaña’s site includes a sectiondevoted entirely to Wine Routes. Itcovers eight wine-growingdestinations and provides useful infoabout related activities and services.(Chinese, English, French, German,Italian, Japanese, Spanish)

• Rías Baixas

www.rutadelvinoriasbaixas.comThe official Wine Route site. This region’swine tourism opportunities are organizedinto northern, southern, eastern andwestern itineraries. (English, Galician,Spanish)

www.doriasbaixas.comThe Regulatory Council of this DO’swebsite (English, Galician, Spanish)

Wineries:

Condes de Alberiwww.salnesur.es

Martin Codaxwww.martincodax.com

Palacio de Fefiñaneswww.fefinanes.com

• Ribeiro

www.ribeiro.esThe Regulatory Council of this DO’swebsite (Spanish)

Wineries:

Viña Costeirawww.vinoribeiro.com

Casal de Armánwww.casaldearman.net

• La Mancha

www.caminosdelvino.orgThe official Wine Route site (Spanish)

www.lamanchado.esThis DO’s website (English, Spanish)

Wineries:

Castiblanquewww.bodegascastiblanque.com

Finca Los Nevadoswww.fincalosnevados.es

Pago del Vicariowww.pagodelvicario.com

• Valdepeñas

www.dovaldepenas.esThe Regulatory Council of this DO’swebsite, including information about itsWine Route (English, Spanish)

Wineries:

Bodega Dionisoswww.labodegadelasestrellas.com

Bodegas Realwww.bodegas-real.com

• Jerez

www.rutadeljerezybrandy.esThis official Wine Route website covers allthe municipalities that make up the routeand gives details about their wineries,restaurants, hotels, opening times, anduseful addresses and telephone numbers.(English, Spanish)

www.sherry.orgThe Regulatory Council of this DO’swebsite (English, French, Spanish)

Wineries:

Grupo Osbornewww.osborne.es

Domecqwww.bodegasfundadorpedrodomecq.com

Emilio Lustauwww.lustau.es

Bodegas Valdiviawww.bodegasvaldivia.com

Bodegas González Byasswww.bodegastiopepe.com

• Jumilla

www.rutadelvinojumilla.comThe official Wine Route website. Itinerariesboth in town and in the surrounding areaare suggested. There is also acomprehensive calendar showing at whattimes of year specific vineyard tasks(harvest, pruning, grafting, etc.) are carriedout. (English, Spanish)

www.vinosdejumilla.orgThe Regulatory Council of this DO’swebsite (English, Spanish)

• Bullas

www.rutadelvino.bullas.esThe official Wine Route website. Differentlythemed routes are suggested, exploringBullas’ natural setting, the historic quartersof local towns and the area’s wineries.(Spanish)

www.bullas.esA joint website shared by the local authorityand the Regulatory Council of this DO(English, Spanish)

• Montilla-Moriles

www.rutadelvinomontillamoriles.comThe official Wine Route website. Threedifferent itineraries are designed to suitdifferent time frames. (English, French,German, Spanish)

www.montilla-moriles.org.The Regulatory Council of this DO’swebsite (Spanish)

• Tacoronte-Acentejo

www.rutasyvinos.comThe official Wine Route website. Sixdifferently themed itineraries aresuggested focusing on nature, culture,traditions, wineries and so on. (English,German, Spanish)

www.tacovin.comThe Regulatory Council of this DO’swebsite (Spanish)

• Navarre

www.rutadelvinodenavarra.comThe official Wine Route website(Spanish)

www.vinonavarra.comThe Regulatory Council of this DO’sofficial website (Spanish)

• Utiel-Requena

www.rutavino.comThe official Wine Route website. Adviceis offered for planning your trip anddifferent itinerary suggestions are gearedto the time available and visitors’specific interests. (English, Spanish)

www.utielrequena.orgThe Regulatory Council of this DO’sofficial website (English, Spanish)

04-enoturismo.qxd 14/7/07 16:09 Página 56 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

asadores AF.qxd 9/7/07 12:57 Página 58

New Wave GrillingFire is what turned mere eating into gastronomy,

necessity into pleasure. Hot coals are, and were

apparently destined to be, the fount of flavor; they

are the greatest taste-enhancer, the most direct of

seasonings, aromatizing food as they cook it. Cooking

over an open fire–the most straightforward and

democratic method–is now experiencing a new wave.

Its centuries-long pedigree is still very much intact,

but it is now also embracing ingredients that have

never been near a grill before, and delivering delicious

results. Thanks to the most ancient cooking method

and the simplest equipment, we are rediscovering

what things really taste like.

COALSFanning the

05-asadores.qxd 14/7/07 16:25 Página 58 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

asadores AF.qxd 9/7/07 12:57 Página 58

New Wave GrillingFire is what turned mere eating into gastronomy,

necessity into pleasure. Hot coals are, and were

apparently destined to be, the fount of flavor; they

are the greatest taste-enhancer, the most direct of

seasonings, aromatizing food as they cook it. Cooking

over an open fire–the most straightforward and

democratic method–is now experiencing a new wave.

Its centuries-long pedigree is still very much intact,

but it is now also embracing ingredients that have

never been near a grill before, and delivering delicious

results. Thanks to the most ancient cooking method

and the simplest equipment, we are rediscovering

what things really taste like.

COALSFanning the

05-asadores.qxd 14/7/07 16:25 Página 58 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

asadores AF.qxd 12/7/07 01:47 Página 60

incandescent firewood beneath it or inits depths. This was a rival cookingmethod to boiling in water, thegastronomic antithesis of roasting. Toboil or to roast? –that is the question.The Golden Age brought with it newproducts in the form of the fruits ofconquest in the Far East and the NewWorld, which added distinction tosoups and stews, sautés, dressings, coldsoups and fried foods. With the Age ofEnlightenment and the innovativeapproach of Carême–the first culinarystructuralist–cooking over an open firecame to be associated with the ruralenvironment and was considered themost archaic method. After the FrenchRevolution, sophisticated, middle-class,urban restaurants came into being,many chefs having been left redundantby the abolition of the aristocracy.Cooking meat over glowing coalssurvived as a method, its boldsimplicity productive of food morebasic than elegant. It was consideredcrude, and the more refined restaurantsdisdained it. Cooking by gas, electrichotplates, pressure cookers and theemergent technology of the 20th centurywere to further delay a new wave ofchar-grill cookery until well into to lastcentury.

Ode to the oxA restaurant that specializes in roastingand grilling meat is known in Spain asan asador. The emergence of the asadoras a gastronomic phenomenon, and the

first phase of new wave asador cookery,dates back to the 1960s and can belargely attributed the Basque town ofTolosa, capital of the Guipúzcoaprovince, until the middle of the 19th

century. Julián Rivas, a native of Lodosa(Navarre), is something of a legendaryfigure in this regard, as it was he whoopened the first ox-beef asador in 1961in a former garage on Tolosa’s SantaClara Street. The ox (an adult castratedbull) is an emblematic animal in theBasque Country. Ousted by themechanization of agriculture, oxenbegan to be consigned to the abattoirfor meat. Public response was initiallywary. However, the combination ofmature loin muscle marbled with fat,slow ageing in the cold room andcooking on an artisan, holm oak,charcoal-burning grill with fire-proofvertical walls, roof and chimney so thatthe interior of the meat became hot,produced miraculous effects. No onehad ever tasted such flavor-packed meatbefore, and the retired work-oxtriumphed over heifer and calf toassume unexpected gastronomic status.Such was the demand for big, solid cutsof meat, simply seasoned with coarsesea salt to form a crust and keep in thejuices, oozing with natural flavor andwith the crunchy/silky textural contrastthat this cooking method produces, thatone of the most daringly simplerestaurant concepts in the world wascreated. The menu focused on just oneproduct–the one kg-or-over (2.2 lbs)beef chuletón (steak on the bone)

garnished with piquillo peppers (thoselittle triangular, slightly hot red ones)slowly roasted to the point ofdeliquescing, preceded by just the onefirst course: giant, white Lodosaasparagus spears, peeled by hand anddressed with a light vinaigrette.

The pride of theBasquesThe Basques are big meat eaters, andwell before the launch of the new wavethey had developed two idiosyncraticmethods of char-grilling steaks: in theBérriz style, which dates back to the1940s, and the in the considerablyolder Villagodio. The first of theseinvolved grilling a beef steak flanked bytwo others over a wood fire so that allthe juices flowed into the middle one.Only that one was eaten, the adjacentones being considered mere also-ransand thrown away–a shocking waste thatdevotees of the method still advocate,albeit rather shamefacedly as if owningup to a secret vice. A Villagodio was asteak big enough for sharing, from atwo to three year old calf, so called injibing reference to the tameness of theMarqués de Villagodio’s fighting bulls.The name was taken up by restaurantsto refer to any large cut of red meatcooked on the grill or griddle from1909 on (that was the year when thearistocratic stock-breeder’s bulls madetheir debut in the bullring he had builtin Bilbao’s Indauchu quarter, and when

60 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 61

“A cook may be taught, but a man whocan roast is born with the faculty”. Thisincontrovertible axiom was coined byBrillat Savarin in his Physiology of Taste.Some might argue with such acategorical and authoritative astatement, but it is a fact that thoseborn to roast leave the rest of usawestruck. Cooking is a learnable tradeand an admirable one, and it involvesspecific ways of doing things that aretaught, practiced and assimilated. Thecook’s job is a civilizing exercise inwhich physics, chemistry and aestheticsall come together. Its processes aremethodical and generally collective, andare aimed at achieving harmonic,satisfying flavors.Cooking food on a grill over an openfire, on the other hand, is an empirical,individual activity, not without itsmetaphysical aspect. It represents thefirst and most concise step ingastronomic evolution, and all itrequires is foodstuffs, fire and instinct.Its purpose is to make the most ofsimple raw materials and to do sowithout delay.One modern Spanish equivalent ofBrillat Savarin’s “man who can roast” isthe parrillero, or grill cook. A parrilleroempathizes with his product, almostphysically becoming part of it and tosome degree subjecting himself to thefire along with it. Heady with heat andheightened awareness, he knowsintuitively how the food he handleswill react to the flames andconsequently exactly how long to cook

it for optimal results.His knack of understanding the embersis more physical than mental. It is a giftthat parrilleros are born with. Theyknow that they have the gift, and oncethey discover their métier they rarelyreturn to conventional cuisine. This isbecause they discover that eachfoodstuff, however simple it mightseem, is a little world in itself that isnever the same twice, just as each firecalls for different handling. This sumsup the instrinsic diversity and thesolitary nature of skilled grilling. Chefsadhere to their precise recipes,reproducing their own perfected

versions of dishes, but nothing cookedover an open fire ever turns out thesame twice. For the parrillero, each cutof meat and each fire poses a differentchallenge that calls for a differentapproach.

Fire and its cultureNo one can really lay claim to havinginvented the grill. Mastery of fire–theenvy of the irrational world–marked thedawn of culture and with it came flavorand thus the pleasures of taste. Glowingcoals cauterize a slice of meat, keep inits juices, heat its interior, break downits fibers and impart their ownvegetable, smoky seasoning. Thousandsof years worth of satisfied taste budscan’t be wrong. For exponents of theworld’s oldest profession–hunting,actually, and not the one usuallycited–fire was both a reward and asource of pleasure, a foretaste of themore sedentary agricultural era tocome.Roasting was hugely popular inmedieval Europe, and whole carcassesof farmyard or game animals impaledon giant spits and rotating slowly over afire featured largely in the enjoyment,and the iconography, of an otherwisedark and beleaguered period. Under thecivilizing influence of the Renaissance,this kind of outdoor roasting becamemore refined and Spain saw theintroduction of the more discreetCastilian roasting oven, a niche built offireproof adobe and fuelled by

COOKING ON THE GRILL

CULINARYFARE

TEXTLUIS CEPEDA

PHOTOSTOMÁS ZARZA Y

TOYA LEGIDO/ICEX

TRANSLATIONHAWYS PRITCHARD

05-asadores.qxd 16/7/07 14:03 Página 60 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

asadores AF.qxd 12/7/07 01:47 Página 60

incandescent firewood beneath it or inits depths. This was a rival cookingmethod to boiling in water, thegastronomic antithesis of roasting. Toboil or to roast? –that is the question.The Golden Age brought with it newproducts in the form of the fruits ofconquest in the Far East and the NewWorld, which added distinction tosoups and stews, sautés, dressings, coldsoups and fried foods. With the Age ofEnlightenment and the innovativeapproach of Carême–the first culinarystructuralist–cooking over an open firecame to be associated with the ruralenvironment and was considered themost archaic method. After the FrenchRevolution, sophisticated, middle-class,urban restaurants came into being,many chefs having been left redundantby the abolition of the aristocracy.Cooking meat over glowing coalssurvived as a method, its boldsimplicity productive of food morebasic than elegant. It was consideredcrude, and the more refined restaurantsdisdained it. Cooking by gas, electrichotplates, pressure cookers and theemergent technology of the 20th centurywere to further delay a new wave ofchar-grill cookery until well into to lastcentury.

Ode to the oxA restaurant that specializes in roastingand grilling meat is known in Spain asan asador. The emergence of the asadoras a gastronomic phenomenon, and the

first phase of new wave asador cookery,dates back to the 1960s and can belargely attributed the Basque town ofTolosa, capital of the Guipúzcoaprovince, until the middle of the 19th

century. Julián Rivas, a native of Lodosa(Navarre), is something of a legendaryfigure in this regard, as it was he whoopened the first ox-beef asador in 1961in a former garage on Tolosa’s SantaClara Street. The ox (an adult castratedbull) is an emblematic animal in theBasque Country. Ousted by themechanization of agriculture, oxenbegan to be consigned to the abattoirfor meat. Public response was initiallywary. However, the combination ofmature loin muscle marbled with fat,slow ageing in the cold room andcooking on an artisan, holm oak,charcoal-burning grill with fire-proofvertical walls, roof and chimney so thatthe interior of the meat became hot,produced miraculous effects. No onehad ever tasted such flavor-packed meatbefore, and the retired work-oxtriumphed over heifer and calf toassume unexpected gastronomic status.Such was the demand for big, solid cutsof meat, simply seasoned with coarsesea salt to form a crust and keep in thejuices, oozing with natural flavor andwith the crunchy/silky textural contrastthat this cooking method produces, thatone of the most daringly simplerestaurant concepts in the world wascreated. The menu focused on just oneproduct–the one kg-or-over (2.2 lbs)beef chuletón (steak on the bone)

garnished with piquillo peppers (thoselittle triangular, slightly hot red ones)slowly roasted to the point ofdeliquescing, preceded by just the onefirst course: giant, white Lodosaasparagus spears, peeled by hand anddressed with a light vinaigrette.

The pride of theBasquesThe Basques are big meat eaters, andwell before the launch of the new wavethey had developed two idiosyncraticmethods of char-grilling steaks: in theBérriz style, which dates back to the1940s, and the in the considerablyolder Villagodio. The first of theseinvolved grilling a beef steak flanked bytwo others over a wood fire so that allthe juices flowed into the middle one.Only that one was eaten, the adjacentones being considered mere also-ransand thrown away–a shocking waste thatdevotees of the method still advocate,albeit rather shamefacedly as if owningup to a secret vice. A Villagodio was asteak big enough for sharing, from atwo to three year old calf, so called injibing reference to the tameness of theMarqués de Villagodio’s fighting bulls.The name was taken up by restaurantsto refer to any large cut of red meatcooked on the grill or griddle from1909 on (that was the year when thearistocratic stock-breeder’s bulls madetheir debut in the bullring he had builtin Bilbao’s Indauchu quarter, and when

60 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 61

“A cook may be taught, but a man whocan roast is born with the faculty”. Thisincontrovertible axiom was coined byBrillat Savarin in his Physiology of Taste.Some might argue with such acategorical and authoritative astatement, but it is a fact that thoseborn to roast leave the rest of usawestruck. Cooking is a learnable tradeand an admirable one, and it involvesspecific ways of doing things that aretaught, practiced and assimilated. Thecook’s job is a civilizing exercise inwhich physics, chemistry and aestheticsall come together. Its processes aremethodical and generally collective, andare aimed at achieving harmonic,satisfying flavors.Cooking food on a grill over an openfire, on the other hand, is an empirical,individual activity, not without itsmetaphysical aspect. It represents thefirst and most concise step ingastronomic evolution, and all itrequires is foodstuffs, fire and instinct.Its purpose is to make the most ofsimple raw materials and to do sowithout delay.One modern Spanish equivalent ofBrillat Savarin’s “man who can roast” isthe parrillero, or grill cook. A parrilleroempathizes with his product, almostphysically becoming part of it and tosome degree subjecting himself to thefire along with it. Heady with heat andheightened awareness, he knowsintuitively how the food he handleswill react to the flames andconsequently exactly how long to cook

it for optimal results.His knack of understanding the embersis more physical than mental. It is a giftthat parrilleros are born with. Theyknow that they have the gift, and oncethey discover their métier they rarelyreturn to conventional cuisine. This isbecause they discover that eachfoodstuff, however simple it mightseem, is a little world in itself that isnever the same twice, just as each firecalls for different handling. This sumsup the instrinsic diversity and thesolitary nature of skilled grilling. Chefsadhere to their precise recipes,reproducing their own perfected

versions of dishes, but nothing cookedover an open fire ever turns out thesame twice. For the parrillero, each cutof meat and each fire poses a differentchallenge that calls for a differentapproach.

Fire and its cultureNo one can really lay claim to havinginvented the grill. Mastery of fire–theenvy of the irrational world–marked thedawn of culture and with it came flavorand thus the pleasures of taste. Glowingcoals cauterize a slice of meat, keep inits juices, heat its interior, break downits fibers and impart their ownvegetable, smoky seasoning. Thousandsof years worth of satisfied taste budscan’t be wrong. For exponents of theworld’s oldest profession–hunting,actually, and not the one usuallycited–fire was both a reward and asource of pleasure, a foretaste of themore sedentary agricultural era tocome.Roasting was hugely popular inmedieval Europe, and whole carcassesof farmyard or game animals impaledon giant spits and rotating slowly over afire featured largely in the enjoyment,and the iconography, of an otherwisedark and beleaguered period. Under thecivilizing influence of the Renaissance,this kind of outdoor roasting becamemore refined and Spain saw theintroduction of the more discreetCastilian roasting oven, a niche built offireproof adobe and fuelled by

COOKING ON THE GRILL

CULINARYFARE

TEXTLUIS CEPEDA

PHOTOSTOMÁS ZARZA Y

TOYA LEGIDO/ICEX

TRANSLATIONHAWYS PRITCHARD

05-asadores.qxd 16/7/07 14:03 Página 60 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

asadores AF.qxd 9/7/07 12:58 Página 62

62 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

it became apparent that they were onlyfit for eating).Guipúzcoa’s discovery of the wondersof grilled ox-beef inspired José MaríaBusca-Isusi, one of the most prestigiousfood critics of the 1960s and founder ofthe Basque Gastronomic Fraternity, todeclare publicly that “the Basquesinvented the ox”–a statement thatsounds less far-fetched if one takes it tomean the ox’s role in gastronomy. Inmost famously carnivorous parts of theworld, such as Argentina, Texas,Australia and Japan, cattle-raising isconducted with the aim of producingmeat, and doing so quickly. Cattle is

rarely grazed for longer than threeyears. The high cost involved inraising an ox for 20 years, the age atwhich castrated working bulls areusually slaughtered, would make itunthinkable. However, the beefeaten in the Basque Country couldbe said to have paid for itself byworking on the farm, producingmilk in the case of cows and servingas draught animals in the case ofoxen. These latter used to die of oldage without giving their potential asa source of meat a second thought.The arrival at the abattoir of oxenliberated from the yoke by the

mechanization of farming led to thediscovery of an unexpectedly fine rawmaterial which, when char-grilled,launched a whole new wave for thismethod of cooking.

Master grillersPioneering grill-cook Julián Rivas wasanxious to leave his Julián de Tolosaasador in good hands that would carryon his epoch-making legacy. He tookthe initiative to arrange a meetingbetween one of his regular customers,Juan Villar, an endocrine specialist fromSan Sebastian, and young local chef,Matías Gorrotxategui, whose interest inand aptitude for char-grilling he hadspotted (Spain Gourmetour No. 67).Having encouraged them to form apartnership, he transferred the businessto them. Twenty-five years later, thereare two branches of the Julian de Tolosain Madrid: the Julián de Tolosa de laCava Baja, and Casa Matías near Plazade España. The Gorratxateguis are inthe process of forming a grillingdynasty: the father still cooks in Tolosa,at lunchtimes only, except for weekendswhen he also opens for dinner, whilehis two sons, Iñaki and Mikel, each runone of the Madrid branches.It is not widely known that Juan MariArzak, redoubtable champion of avant-garde cuisine in Spain for the last 40

years, also felt the attraction of grillcooking. In 1967, after graduating fromMadrid’s Escuela de Hostelería cateringcollege and returning to Spain aftertraining periods in various restaurantsaround Europe, he took over hisfamily’s restaurant. He installed a holmoak, charcoal-burning grill in a formerentranceway in full view of the diners.It is still in use today and comes into itsown against the cutting-edgetechnology of his present-day kitchenwhen all a prime raw material needs isjudicious charcoal grilling. This SanSebastian chef recognizes that grillcooking is an art, and played his part inits resurgence, serving up impressivered sea bream and meaty neck cuts ofhake, entrecote beef steaks and présalélamb chops all cooked over charcoal ata time when the demand for this sort offood seemed insatiable. Meanwhile, hewas conceptualizing and laying thefoundations of the New Basque Cuisine.Matías from Julián de Tolosa, along withhis neighbors and disciples (Pedro,from Casa Nicolás, Juanjo, from ElBurruntzi and Javier from the OrueErretegia), all part of the fons et origo ofthe Tolosa-style chuletón can probablybe held responsible for exhausting thesupply of ox-beef, which had to besourced from even farther afield:Asturias, Galicia and even as far away asPortugal. Meat described as ox-beef is

still served today, but is rarely morethan just mature beef. The enduringpopularity of the chuletón is largely dueto the selective purchasing policy ofspecialists such as Los Norteños. Theysource outstandingly good rib cuts fromall over Spain, operating as flavor-scoutsand reserving particular animals whoserearing and care are kept optimal by thedemand for top-quality meat.

Culinary championsThe burgeoning of asador restaurantsdid not depend entirely on meat,though chuletones were unrivalled asthe star product at San Sebastian’s mostprestigious, and still thriving, asador ElRekondo de Txomin “el Torero”, on theway up to Igueldo, and the famousAsador del Trapos, which appearedalmost secretly in a former clothingstore in the town’s historic quarter. Bothof these have gone down in history asseminal charcoal-grilling institutions.Oyaszun, an inland town in theGuipúzcoa province, became theyardstick for grilled sea bream andsteaks served in portions big enough toshare. Atamix is a restaurant with atree-shaded terrace, long communaltables and constantly burning holm oakfired grills positioned between the openair and the big, old house, and providesa good example of the fact that players

of pelota vasca (a Basque court gameplayed with a ball) are oftenoutstandingly good parrilleros. FormerSpanish pelotari champion (a personwho plays pelota vasca) Luciano Juaristi(“Atano X”) proves the point at Atamix.This was the most popular Basqueasador in the 1970s and it stillmaintains its fine reputation, located onthe highway at the junction with theroad to Astigarraga, home of Vasconianatural, or “hard” ciders. Zapiaínsidrerías (typical Basque cider bars andrestaurants) also date back to the sameperiod, and are still an integral part ofthe gastronomic scene, havinginstigated the concept of a very specific,traditional menu: tortilla de bacalao (saltcod Spanish omelet), char-grilled beefsteak weighing a kg (2.2 lbs) or more(intended for sharing, except in the caseof particularly hearty eaters) andIdazábal cheese served with walnutsand quince jelly. Diners eat at tablessurrounded by cider-storing kupelas(the Basque term for wooden casks).From his old family sidrería in theBasque Country, Miguel Zapiaín runs anational chain of asadores whose badgeof identity is their traditional sidreríamenu. El Zeraín, in Madrid’s Las Letrasquarter, and the three Imanol asadoresestablished by pelotari Miguel Ansorena(formerly the promoter of the reputableFrontón de Madrid group of asadores,

05-asadores.qxd 14/7/07 16:26 Página 62 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

asadores AF.qxd 9/7/07 12:58 Página 62

62 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

it became apparent that they were onlyfit for eating).Guipúzcoa’s discovery of the wondersof grilled ox-beef inspired José MaríaBusca-Isusi, one of the most prestigiousfood critics of the 1960s and founder ofthe Basque Gastronomic Fraternity, todeclare publicly that “the Basquesinvented the ox”–a statement thatsounds less far-fetched if one takes it tomean the ox’s role in gastronomy. Inmost famously carnivorous parts of theworld, such as Argentina, Texas,Australia and Japan, cattle-raising isconducted with the aim of producingmeat, and doing so quickly. Cattle is

rarely grazed for longer than threeyears. The high cost involved inraising an ox for 20 years, the age atwhich castrated working bulls areusually slaughtered, would make itunthinkable. However, the beefeaten in the Basque Country couldbe said to have paid for itself byworking on the farm, producingmilk in the case of cows and servingas draught animals in the case ofoxen. These latter used to die of oldage without giving their potential asa source of meat a second thought.The arrival at the abattoir of oxenliberated from the yoke by the

mechanization of farming led to thediscovery of an unexpectedly fine rawmaterial which, when char-grilled,launched a whole new wave for thismethod of cooking.

Master grillersPioneering grill-cook Julián Rivas wasanxious to leave his Julián de Tolosaasador in good hands that would carryon his epoch-making legacy. He tookthe initiative to arrange a meetingbetween one of his regular customers,Juan Villar, an endocrine specialist fromSan Sebastian, and young local chef,Matías Gorrotxategui, whose interest inand aptitude for char-grilling he hadspotted (Spain Gourmetour No. 67).Having encouraged them to form apartnership, he transferred the businessto them. Twenty-five years later, thereare two branches of the Julian de Tolosain Madrid: the Julián de Tolosa de laCava Baja, and Casa Matías near Plazade España. The Gorratxateguis are inthe process of forming a grillingdynasty: the father still cooks in Tolosa,at lunchtimes only, except for weekendswhen he also opens for dinner, whilehis two sons, Iñaki and Mikel, each runone of the Madrid branches.It is not widely known that Juan MariArzak, redoubtable champion of avant-garde cuisine in Spain for the last 40

years, also felt the attraction of grillcooking. In 1967, after graduating fromMadrid’s Escuela de Hostelería cateringcollege and returning to Spain aftertraining periods in various restaurantsaround Europe, he took over hisfamily’s restaurant. He installed a holmoak, charcoal-burning grill in a formerentranceway in full view of the diners.It is still in use today and comes into itsown against the cutting-edgetechnology of his present-day kitchenwhen all a prime raw material needs isjudicious charcoal grilling. This SanSebastian chef recognizes that grillcooking is an art, and played his part inits resurgence, serving up impressivered sea bream and meaty neck cuts ofhake, entrecote beef steaks and présalélamb chops all cooked over charcoal ata time when the demand for this sort offood seemed insatiable. Meanwhile, hewas conceptualizing and laying thefoundations of the New Basque Cuisine.Matías from Julián de Tolosa, along withhis neighbors and disciples (Pedro,from Casa Nicolás, Juanjo, from ElBurruntzi and Javier from the OrueErretegia), all part of the fons et origo ofthe Tolosa-style chuletón can probablybe held responsible for exhausting thesupply of ox-beef, which had to besourced from even farther afield:Asturias, Galicia and even as far away asPortugal. Meat described as ox-beef is

still served today, but is rarely morethan just mature beef. The enduringpopularity of the chuletón is largely dueto the selective purchasing policy ofspecialists such as Los Norteños. Theysource outstandingly good rib cuts fromall over Spain, operating as flavor-scoutsand reserving particular animals whoserearing and care are kept optimal by thedemand for top-quality meat.

Culinary championsThe burgeoning of asador restaurantsdid not depend entirely on meat,though chuletones were unrivalled asthe star product at San Sebastian’s mostprestigious, and still thriving, asador ElRekondo de Txomin “el Torero”, on theway up to Igueldo, and the famousAsador del Trapos, which appearedalmost secretly in a former clothingstore in the town’s historic quarter. Bothof these have gone down in history asseminal charcoal-grilling institutions.Oyaszun, an inland town in theGuipúzcoa province, became theyardstick for grilled sea bream andsteaks served in portions big enough toshare. Atamix is a restaurant with atree-shaded terrace, long communaltables and constantly burning holm oakfired grills positioned between the openair and the big, old house, and providesa good example of the fact that players

of pelota vasca (a Basque court gameplayed with a ball) are oftenoutstandingly good parrilleros. FormerSpanish pelotari champion (a personwho plays pelota vasca) Luciano Juaristi(“Atano X”) proves the point at Atamix.This was the most popular Basqueasador in the 1970s and it stillmaintains its fine reputation, located onthe highway at the junction with theroad to Astigarraga, home of Vasconianatural, or “hard” ciders. Zapiaínsidrerías (typical Basque cider bars andrestaurants) also date back to the sameperiod, and are still an integral part ofthe gastronomic scene, havinginstigated the concept of a very specific,traditional menu: tortilla de bacalao (saltcod Spanish omelet), char-grilled beefsteak weighing a kg (2.2 lbs) or more(intended for sharing, except in the caseof particularly hearty eaters) andIdazábal cheese served with walnutsand quince jelly. Diners eat at tablessurrounded by cider-storing kupelas(the Basque term for wooden casks).From his old family sidrería in theBasque Country, Miguel Zapiaín runs anational chain of asadores whose badgeof identity is their traditional sidreríamenu. El Zeraín, in Madrid’s Las Letrasquarter, and the three Imanol asadoresestablished by pelotari Miguel Ansorena(formerly the promoter of the reputableFrontón de Madrid group of asadores,

05-asadores.qxd 14/7/07 16:26 Página 62 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

asadores AF.qxd 12/7/07 02:23 Página 64

Elcano, the first man to sail round theworld, and the original source of theonly Basque wine, txakolí (chacolí).

Vegetables matterAs we have seen, the first new wave inchar-grill cooking began in Tolosa as aconsequence of oxen becomingredundant in agriculture. The laterwave has been far more eclectic,however, embracing products of allkinds and with enclaves where the skillis practiced distributed all over Spain,though the Basque Country is still thepace-setter. Roasting potatoes amongthe embers in the hearth at home is anancient practice; a more recent exampleof cooking vegetables over glowingcoals are calçots a la brasa (char-grilledlong-stemmed spring onions),traditional to the Valls area in the

Tarragona province (Spain GourmetourNo. 55). Calçots were discovered inValls in the late 19th century by asolitary farmer by the name of Xat deBenaiges, who seems to have discoveredthe culinary potential of new shootsproduced by a mature onion replantedespecially for this purpose. He alsodevised a suitable grill and theromescu-like dressing or sauce (madewith choricero pepper, roasted garlic,roasted tomatoes, almonds, hazelnuts,stale bread, oil and vinegar) generallyserved with calçots. The onion shootsare roasted over the flames until theirouter membrane burns, at which pointthe white, edible interior is extracted ina deft maneuver and dipped in thesauce. They have to be eaten with thehead tipped backwards, much like asword-swallower, and wearing a bib.There is ritual and significance involved

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 65

parsley. This classic version uses thesame method used for grilling dorada(gilthead bream) on the Mediterraneancoast. I have even had the gratifyingexperience of seeing the same method,described as a la vasca (Basque-style),applied to Gulf-caught red snapper inVeracruz, Mexico.

GuetariaGuetaria can be credited, in part, withhaving consolidated the art of cookingfish over charcoal and giving itcredibility. Talaipe, a restaurant situatedat the mouth of its medieval port, at thefoot of the hill known as Cerro delRatón, and with its own basement fish-pen reclaimed from the sea, can claimto have been the first restaurant to char-grill fish, crayfish and mixeras (lobster).It has been doing so for 50 years. Latercame Kaia and Kaipe, two restaurantswith panoramic views of the port andopen-air grills on which they cook top-notch turbot, red sea bream and sole.However, it was Pedro Arregui fromAsador Elkano, located outside the oldtown walls, who thought up thesignature Basque fish-grilling dish:cogote de merluza a la brasa (char-grilledhake neck). His co-opting of this cut offish (hitherto stewed with potatoes infishermens’ households) for newpurposes probably qualifies him as themost important traditional fishparrillero in history. He was also thefirst person to cook whole turbot overthe coals. Previously the custom hadbeen to cut turbot into wide slicesbefore grilling; Arregui’s method,however, retained the juices better.Spurred by success, he daringly sethimself up in Madrid in the 1970s butdid not meet with the response that hemerited. Soon after he returned hisbusiness to the fishing port of Guetaria,whose claims to fame include its beingthe birth place of Juan Sebastián

COOKING ON THE GRILL

CULINARYFARE

champions of the historic resurgence ofchar-grilling in the Spanish capital 27years ago), serve exemplary, typicalasador menus with cider on tap, andare located in premises whoseenormous gastronomic appeal isreflected in the fact that they are alwayscrowded.The Ansorena family’s trajectorydemonstrates both a calling and skill forBasque parrilla cooking. Rafael runs arestaurant under the family surname inMadrid. Paco Ansorena, anotherpelotari champion, set up the AsadorEpeleta at the end of his sporting career,first in Azpiroz and then in Lekumberri(Navarre), another temple for devoteesof this sort of food. Also noteworthy isthe longevity of Madrid’s Asador Txistuand Asador Donostiarra, which dateback to the 1970s. They are probablythe most popular meat asadores in thewhole of Spain, serving several hundredcustomers a day under the unflaggingsupervision of their founder PedroÁbrego. Now more than 80 years old,he is a legendary figure in the Spanishhospitality industry and recipient of aMedalla de Oro al Trabajo–the nation’stop award for a lifetime’s work.

Seafood on the grillAlthough char-grilling is a methodprimarily associated with meat,numerous fish asadores appeared incoastal areas where they still thrivetoday. Indeed, char-grilling fish was totrigger a second new wave. There hasalways been plenty of seafood in theBasque Country that was eminentlysuited for cooking over an open fire.Take sardines: their own fat melts overthe fire to create one of the most crowd-pleasing yet nuanced flavors in thewhole of fish cookery. Char-grilledsardines, simply seasoned with coarsesea salt and eaten with one’s fingers(holding the tail in your left hand andthe head in your right, you eat our wayalong “as if playing the harmonica”, asJulio Camba puts it), were an integralpart of the Vizcayan diet in spring andsummer, often cooked with just a pieceof tinfoil between them and the glowingcoals. In Santurce (Vizcaya), José MaríaGonzález Barea, a larger-than-lifecharacter better known as “Currito”,installed a grill specially designed forcooking sardines, placing them veryclose to the coals and slightly tilted so

that the fat could run off. Such was hissuccess–even in a fishing comarcawhere sardines are almost part of thefolk culture–that he headed for Madrid.The grill producing sardines, fish andbeef chuletones has been a feature ofthe tree-shaded terrace of Madrid’sCurrito in the Vizcayan Pavilion of thecity’s Casa de Campo park since 1975.Red sea bream is another fish longassociated with the charcoal grill. It is afavorite at the Oyarzun Atamix(mentioned previously), but most of allat the long, communal tables of AsadorJoxe Mari in the seaside town of Orio(Guipúzcoa), where it has become alocal specialty known as “besugooriotarra”. Fish weighing around 800 g(28 oz) are gutted and then cookedwhole over the coals, encased in a metalmesh utensil invented there(ergonomically designed so that it alsomakes it easy to turn the fish over onthe grill). After cooking each side forten minutes, the Orio-style sea bream isopened like a book, the backbone isremoved and the fish is then sprinkledwith salt, a few drops of vinegar anddressed with a hot fritura of olive oil,garlic slices, chili rings and chopped

05-asadores.qxd 14/7/07 16:27 Página 64 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

asadores AF.qxd 12/7/07 02:23 Página 64

Elcano, the first man to sail round theworld, and the original source of theonly Basque wine, txakolí (chacolí).

Vegetables matterAs we have seen, the first new wave inchar-grill cooking began in Tolosa as aconsequence of oxen becomingredundant in agriculture. The laterwave has been far more eclectic,however, embracing products of allkinds and with enclaves where the skillis practiced distributed all over Spain,though the Basque Country is still thepace-setter. Roasting potatoes amongthe embers in the hearth at home is anancient practice; a more recent exampleof cooking vegetables over glowingcoals are calçots a la brasa (char-grilledlong-stemmed spring onions),traditional to the Valls area in the

Tarragona province (Spain GourmetourNo. 55). Calçots were discovered inValls in the late 19th century by asolitary farmer by the name of Xat deBenaiges, who seems to have discoveredthe culinary potential of new shootsproduced by a mature onion replantedespecially for this purpose. He alsodevised a suitable grill and theromescu-like dressing or sauce (madewith choricero pepper, roasted garlic,roasted tomatoes, almonds, hazelnuts,stale bread, oil and vinegar) generallyserved with calçots. The onion shootsare roasted over the flames until theirouter membrane burns, at which pointthe white, edible interior is extracted ina deft maneuver and dipped in thesauce. They have to be eaten with thehead tipped backwards, much like asword-swallower, and wearing a bib.There is ritual and significance involved

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 65

parsley. This classic version uses thesame method used for grilling dorada(gilthead bream) on the Mediterraneancoast. I have even had the gratifyingexperience of seeing the same method,described as a la vasca (Basque-style),applied to Gulf-caught red snapper inVeracruz, Mexico.

GuetariaGuetaria can be credited, in part, withhaving consolidated the art of cookingfish over charcoal and giving itcredibility. Talaipe, a restaurant situatedat the mouth of its medieval port, at thefoot of the hill known as Cerro delRatón, and with its own basement fish-pen reclaimed from the sea, can claimto have been the first restaurant to char-grill fish, crayfish and mixeras (lobster).It has been doing so for 50 years. Latercame Kaia and Kaipe, two restaurantswith panoramic views of the port andopen-air grills on which they cook top-notch turbot, red sea bream and sole.However, it was Pedro Arregui fromAsador Elkano, located outside the oldtown walls, who thought up thesignature Basque fish-grilling dish:cogote de merluza a la brasa (char-grilledhake neck). His co-opting of this cut offish (hitherto stewed with potatoes infishermens’ households) for newpurposes probably qualifies him as themost important traditional fishparrillero in history. He was also thefirst person to cook whole turbot overthe coals. Previously the custom hadbeen to cut turbot into wide slicesbefore grilling; Arregui’s method,however, retained the juices better.Spurred by success, he daringly sethimself up in Madrid in the 1970s butdid not meet with the response that hemerited. Soon after he returned hisbusiness to the fishing port of Guetaria,whose claims to fame include its beingthe birth place of Juan Sebastián

COOKING ON THE GRILL

CULINARYFARE

champions of the historic resurgence ofchar-grilling in the Spanish capital 27years ago), serve exemplary, typicalasador menus with cider on tap, andare located in premises whoseenormous gastronomic appeal isreflected in the fact that they are alwayscrowded.The Ansorena family’s trajectorydemonstrates both a calling and skill forBasque parrilla cooking. Rafael runs arestaurant under the family surname inMadrid. Paco Ansorena, anotherpelotari champion, set up the AsadorEpeleta at the end of his sporting career,first in Azpiroz and then in Lekumberri(Navarre), another temple for devoteesof this sort of food. Also noteworthy isthe longevity of Madrid’s Asador Txistuand Asador Donostiarra, which dateback to the 1970s. They are probablythe most popular meat asadores in thewhole of Spain, serving several hundredcustomers a day under the unflaggingsupervision of their founder PedroÁbrego. Now more than 80 years old,he is a legendary figure in the Spanishhospitality industry and recipient of aMedalla de Oro al Trabajo–the nation’stop award for a lifetime’s work.

Seafood on the grillAlthough char-grilling is a methodprimarily associated with meat,numerous fish asadores appeared incoastal areas where they still thrivetoday. Indeed, char-grilling fish was totrigger a second new wave. There hasalways been plenty of seafood in theBasque Country that was eminentlysuited for cooking over an open fire.Take sardines: their own fat melts overthe fire to create one of the most crowd-pleasing yet nuanced flavors in thewhole of fish cookery. Char-grilledsardines, simply seasoned with coarsesea salt and eaten with one’s fingers(holding the tail in your left hand andthe head in your right, you eat our wayalong “as if playing the harmonica”, asJulio Camba puts it), were an integralpart of the Vizcayan diet in spring andsummer, often cooked with just a pieceof tinfoil between them and the glowingcoals. In Santurce (Vizcaya), José MaríaGonzález Barea, a larger-than-lifecharacter better known as “Currito”,installed a grill specially designed forcooking sardines, placing them veryclose to the coals and slightly tilted so

that the fat could run off. Such was hissuccess–even in a fishing comarcawhere sardines are almost part of thefolk culture–that he headed for Madrid.The grill producing sardines, fish andbeef chuletones has been a feature ofthe tree-shaded terrace of Madrid’sCurrito in the Vizcayan Pavilion of thecity’s Casa de Campo park since 1975.Red sea bream is another fish longassociated with the charcoal grill. It is afavorite at the Oyarzun Atamix(mentioned previously), but most of allat the long, communal tables of AsadorJoxe Mari in the seaside town of Orio(Guipúzcoa), where it has become alocal specialty known as “besugooriotarra”. Fish weighing around 800 g(28 oz) are gutted and then cookedwhole over the coals, encased in a metalmesh utensil invented there(ergonomically designed so that it alsomakes it easy to turn the fish over onthe grill). After cooking each side forten minutes, the Orio-style sea bream isopened like a book, the backbone isremoved and the fish is then sprinkledwith salt, a few drops of vinegar anddressed with a hot fritura of olive oil,garlic slices, chili rings and chopped

05-asadores.qxd 14/7/07 16:27 Página 64 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

asadores AF.qxd 12/7/07 01:45 Página 66

66 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 67

in eating calçots: in Valls they say thateating them is a way of giving thanks tothe earth for bestowing such gifts uponus. The celebration dedicated to calçotsis possibly Spain’s biggest gastronomicevent involving charcoal cooking. It isan authentic, rural festival incelebration of vegetables and fire, andtakes place on the last Sunday inJanuary in Valls and other nearby townsand villages which have manyrestaurants that specialize in calçots. AsCatalan cuisine has spread across thecountry it has taken this specialty withit, and certain char-grilling restaurants,such as La Huerta de Lleida in Madrid,serve them at harvest times, extendingthe repertoire to include other productssuch as artichokes, salt cod and snailscooked a la llauna (on a roasting tray).These are all prepared on a wood-burning grill under the guidance ofValentín Botarges, the experiencedparrillero formerly found presiding over

the grill at the famous vegetable marketin Lérida (Catalonia), and in Madrid forthe past seven years.

Tradition, enthusiasm,technologyAnother Catalonian specialist who hasintroduced surprising techniques intogrill cookery is Jordi Herrera, fromBarcelona’s Manairó restaurant. He is acook with a technical bent and plentyof imagination, creative without beingover-the-top, and he could be describedas a gastronomic blacksmith given thathe works with fire and iron, though theequipment he uses also suggests anenthusiasm for D.I.Y. homeimprovements. Using everything froman autogenous welding kit to an electricdrill and a blowtorch to inventions ofhis own such as the “fakir cook” (a bedof nails that irradiates heat from insideoutwards) as well as high-strength

spotlights, he has come up with newconcepts of cooking meat, fish andvegetables that achieve the fundamentalaim of grilling to perfection, howevereccentric the method. Steaks cooked onhot nails, meat glazed with a hot air gun(which melts the primary layer of fat,leaving behind a transparent glaze, orfilm), and pigeon rotated on an electricdrill may sound bizarre, yet they respectthe traditional essence of the dish whilemaking surprising changes to the rulesof harnessing fire and producingdelicious food.Any new wave grill restaurant itinerarymust also head to Valencia whereAsador Askua offers a new take on thelong-established venue, changing waysof doing things while still retaining itsfundamental qualities. Ricardo Gadea’srestaurant embraces contemporarydesign yet is convincingly traditional inthe way it handles big cuts of maturebeef, rounding out the menu with

carefully selected milk-fed veal and calfsweetbreads and delicious espardenyes(sea cucumbers), lightly char-grilled. LaVenta del Sotón, a restaurant in a big,old, typically Pyrenean house inEsqueda, 14 km (8.7 mi) from Huesca,uses an unusual method of cookingover a wood fire that combines traditionand originality. Cooking “a la teja” or “ala lata” involves placing the food ontiles or trays over glowing coals so thatjuices are retained. Another not-to-be-missed port of call for new wave grillingenthusiasts is the Asador Alameda inFuenmayor (La Rioja). Here TomásFernández cooks, over a holm oakcharcoal fire, meat from 10-year-old-and-over Rubia cows that has beenslowly macerated in the cold room:Alameda steaks have a reputation forbeing among the best in Spain.Meanwhile, in Castile, Guillermo fromEl Molinero in Traspinedo (Valladolid)grills skewers of marvelous milk-fedlamb over a vine-shoot fire, inMatapozuelos (also in Valladolid), char-grilled rabbit is the local specialty andat El Capricho in La Bañeza (Leon), thebeef steaks are guaranteed to come fromthe last working oxen in the Portuguesecountryside, so a visit there is anopportunity to sample a rare treat. ElLlar de la Campana, a restaurant inLlanera (Asturias), is another place ofpilgrimage for devotees of char-grilledmeat, fish and offal. Its proprietor, LolínBobes, considered to be one of the topfabada asturiana (Asturian bean stew)cooks, has bowed to the fact that hiscustomers love the food he produces onthe grill. In the last few years Madridhas also succumbed to new wave grillcookery. The recently opened Rubaiyatin the Chamartín district of town is agood example, consisting as it does of

two destinations. One is Baby Beef,which is dedicated to meat, as its namesuggests, and boasts four grills in fullview of the public and in constantaction cooking cuts of meat and offal ofEuropean and American provenance.The other is El Porto which is located inthe basement and specializes in char-grilling a selection of fish worthy of aGalician quayside, plenty of which iswild and is displayed alongside thegrills where the cooking is done foreveryone to see.

Quintessential flavorBut back in the Basque Country iswhere the constantly resurgent newwave parrilla cooking is most inevidence. In Vitoria, Senén González’srestaurant Sagartoki has two facets,both of which are excellent: it combinesone of the best pinchos (tapas) bars inSpain with an experimental asador-

sidrería. Simple char-grilling (the fish isparticularly good) and haute cuisineshare the menu. Incidentally, thisrestaurant’s steaks and Iberico secretopork (Spain Gourmetour No. 68) merit areview all to themselves. Anotherenduring yet progressive asador is ElZaldúa de Pedernales in Vizcaya, whereJuan Antonio Zaldúa serves outstandingquality char-grilled meat and fish. He isparticularly famous for his two-stagemethod of grilling steaks. First they arecovered in salt and placed ten cm (4 in)away from the coals until a crisp crustforms, and then they are placed 30 cm(12 in) away from the fire so that theheat reaches the interior withoutburning the meat or drying them out.Relative newcomer, Asador Ripa, onBilbao’s old Muelle de Ripa, is of asimilar standard. Housed in a centuries-old building, it is owned by theBustinza family, who also own theHorma Hondo asador. Asador Ripa

05-asadores.qxd 14/7/07 16:28 Página 66 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

asadores AF.qxd 12/7/07 01:45 Página 66

66 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 67

in eating calçots: in Valls they say thateating them is a way of giving thanks tothe earth for bestowing such gifts uponus. The celebration dedicated to calçotsis possibly Spain’s biggest gastronomicevent involving charcoal cooking. It isan authentic, rural festival incelebration of vegetables and fire, andtakes place on the last Sunday inJanuary in Valls and other nearby townsand villages which have manyrestaurants that specialize in calçots. AsCatalan cuisine has spread across thecountry it has taken this specialty withit, and certain char-grilling restaurants,such as La Huerta de Lleida in Madrid,serve them at harvest times, extendingthe repertoire to include other productssuch as artichokes, salt cod and snailscooked a la llauna (on a roasting tray).These are all prepared on a wood-burning grill under the guidance ofValentín Botarges, the experiencedparrillero formerly found presiding over

the grill at the famous vegetable marketin Lérida (Catalonia), and in Madrid forthe past seven years.

Tradition, enthusiasm,technologyAnother Catalonian specialist who hasintroduced surprising techniques intogrill cookery is Jordi Herrera, fromBarcelona’s Manairó restaurant. He is acook with a technical bent and plentyof imagination, creative without beingover-the-top, and he could be describedas a gastronomic blacksmith given thathe works with fire and iron, though theequipment he uses also suggests anenthusiasm for D.I.Y. homeimprovements. Using everything froman autogenous welding kit to an electricdrill and a blowtorch to inventions ofhis own such as the “fakir cook” (a bedof nails that irradiates heat from insideoutwards) as well as high-strength

spotlights, he has come up with newconcepts of cooking meat, fish andvegetables that achieve the fundamentalaim of grilling to perfection, howevereccentric the method. Steaks cooked onhot nails, meat glazed with a hot air gun(which melts the primary layer of fat,leaving behind a transparent glaze, orfilm), and pigeon rotated on an electricdrill may sound bizarre, yet they respectthe traditional essence of the dish whilemaking surprising changes to the rulesof harnessing fire and producingdelicious food.Any new wave grill restaurant itinerarymust also head to Valencia whereAsador Askua offers a new take on thelong-established venue, changing waysof doing things while still retaining itsfundamental qualities. Ricardo Gadea’srestaurant embraces contemporarydesign yet is convincingly traditional inthe way it handles big cuts of maturebeef, rounding out the menu with

carefully selected milk-fed veal and calfsweetbreads and delicious espardenyes(sea cucumbers), lightly char-grilled. LaVenta del Sotón, a restaurant in a big,old, typically Pyrenean house inEsqueda, 14 km (8.7 mi) from Huesca,uses an unusual method of cookingover a wood fire that combines traditionand originality. Cooking “a la teja” or “ala lata” involves placing the food ontiles or trays over glowing coals so thatjuices are retained. Another not-to-be-missed port of call for new wave grillingenthusiasts is the Asador Alameda inFuenmayor (La Rioja). Here TomásFernández cooks, over a holm oakcharcoal fire, meat from 10-year-old-and-over Rubia cows that has beenslowly macerated in the cold room:Alameda steaks have a reputation forbeing among the best in Spain.Meanwhile, in Castile, Guillermo fromEl Molinero in Traspinedo (Valladolid)grills skewers of marvelous milk-fedlamb over a vine-shoot fire, inMatapozuelos (also in Valladolid), char-grilled rabbit is the local specialty andat El Capricho in La Bañeza (Leon), thebeef steaks are guaranteed to come fromthe last working oxen in the Portuguesecountryside, so a visit there is anopportunity to sample a rare treat. ElLlar de la Campana, a restaurant inLlanera (Asturias), is another place ofpilgrimage for devotees of char-grilledmeat, fish and offal. Its proprietor, LolínBobes, considered to be one of the topfabada asturiana (Asturian bean stew)cooks, has bowed to the fact that hiscustomers love the food he produces onthe grill. In the last few years Madridhas also succumbed to new wave grillcookery. The recently opened Rubaiyatin the Chamartín district of town is agood example, consisting as it does of

two destinations. One is Baby Beef,which is dedicated to meat, as its namesuggests, and boasts four grills in fullview of the public and in constantaction cooking cuts of meat and offal ofEuropean and American provenance.The other is El Porto which is located inthe basement and specializes in char-grilling a selection of fish worthy of aGalician quayside, plenty of which iswild and is displayed alongside thegrills where the cooking is done foreveryone to see.

Quintessential flavorBut back in the Basque Country iswhere the constantly resurgent newwave parrilla cooking is most inevidence. In Vitoria, Senén González’srestaurant Sagartoki has two facets,both of which are excellent: it combinesone of the best pinchos (tapas) bars inSpain with an experimental asador-

sidrería. Simple char-grilling (the fish isparticularly good) and haute cuisineshare the menu. Incidentally, thisrestaurant’s steaks and Iberico secretopork (Spain Gourmetour No. 68) merit areview all to themselves. Anotherenduring yet progressive asador is ElZaldúa de Pedernales in Vizcaya, whereJuan Antonio Zaldúa serves outstandingquality char-grilled meat and fish. He isparticularly famous for his two-stagemethod of grilling steaks. First they arecovered in salt and placed ten cm (4 in)away from the coals until a crisp crustforms, and then they are placed 30 cm(12 in) away from the fire so that theheat reaches the interior withoutburning the meat or drying them out.Relative newcomer, Asador Ripa, onBilbao’s old Muelle de Ripa, is of asimilar standard. Housed in a centuries-old building, it is owned by theBustinza family, who also own theHorma Hondo asador. Asador Ripa

05-asadores.qxd 14/7/07 16:28 Página 66 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

asadores AF.qxd 9/7/07 12:59 Página 68

68 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

features seasonal produce and thegrilling skills of Miguel ÁngelHernando, whose innovative char-grilled duck-liver au naturel andkokotxas (the Basque word forcocochas–hake or cod cheeks) have hadfood critics tripping over theirsuperlatives, though his moretraditional grilled fish and meat areequally outstanding.We round off this tour at Etxebarri, theasador in Atxondno (Vizcaya) thatcurrently best represents therevolutionized methods, more daringapproach, subtle use of char-grillingand clever produce selection thatcharacterize the new wave. VíctorArguinzoniz effectively prepares hautecuisine on the grill and has becomefamous for it: he goes so far as toreplace the usual holm oak charcoalwith different aromatic woods chosento suit particular foodstuffs. The mildaromatizing smokiness produced byolive wood, vine shoots, branches ororange wood is imaginatively matchedwith the grilled products. Víctor’s workrepresents a milestone in this style ofcooking: foodies and chefs from allover the world regard him as a majoravant-garde cuisine figure and histaberna, in a big, old house, is a placeof pilgrimage for those in the know.His enthusiasm for letting the grillwork its magic on whatever producthas led to his designing various pans,grills and receptacles so that they dothe best possible job with ingredientsthat range from the usual red seabream and horse mackerel to the moreunlikely Iranian caviar and angulas(elvers), creating a method for thelatter two that unprecedentedlyobviates the need to double-cookthem. Not only are the products hecooks unexpected but his techniquesare also ingenious and rational–grills

that work from above and belowsimultaneously, for example. Pairs ofanchovies are cooked using meat-grilling methods while sea cucumberswith baby broad beans, oysters on abed of seaweed, zucchini flowers withherring, white and red shrimp,grouper, woodcock–a boundless rangeof raw materials–reveal their essentialdeliciousness in the laboratory ofcutting-edge grill cuisine that isEtxebarri.It’s hard to imagine another, moreradical new wave than the one goingon in grill cuisine today. It has neverbeen so sophisticated, so popular or sosybaritic. Who better to sum up thisquick survey of its historical andgeographical highlights than Spain’smost eminent gourmet, Julio Camba,who paradoxically declared that:“There is nothing so ancient yet somodern, so easy yet so difficult, so

simple yet so complicated, so familiaryet so exciting.”

Luis Cepeda is a journalist and theauthor of many books including Los 100platos universales de la cocina vasca(100 universal Basque dishes), Gusto dereyes (The tastes of kings and queens),Lhardy, La cocina de paradores (Paradorcuisine) and Maridaje de vinos y platos(Matching wine with food). He currentlycommentates on the food scene forOnMadrid, the leisure supplement of thedaily paper El País, and is technicaldirector of the Spanish Federation ofChefs (Federación de Cocineros deEspaña).

COOKING ON THE GRILL

CULINARYFARE

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 69

MADRID

Casa Julián de TolosaCava Baja, 1828005 MadridTel: (+34) 913 658 210www.casajuliandetolosa.comThis Madrid branch of the BasqueCountry’s pioneering ox-beef asador hasits own unbeatable method of grillingsteaks and peppers. With 20 successfulyears of behind it, this is a guaranteedchoice for eating out in the capital.

Asador ImanolGeneral Díaz Porlier, 9728006 MadridTel: (+34) 913 090 859www.asadorimanol.com Miguel Ansorena, a former pelotari andfounder of the legendary El Frontón,established Asador Imanol with theintention of building a chain (there are threebranches in Madrid) offering astraightforward formula of top-quality fishand meat cooked over charcoal.

El Álamo de Iñaki OngayCamino de Valladolid, 28-chalet28250 TorrelodonesMadridTel: (+34) 918 591 190The most tried and true asador inMadrid’s countryside. Excellent, maturebeef and quality fish skillfully char-grilledby top-flight parrillero Iñaki Ongay (trainedat Julián de Tolosa), with his owndistinctive touch.

Casa MatíasSan Leonardo, 1228015 MadridTel: (+34) 915 417 683www.casajuliandetolosa.comThis restaurant bears the guarantee of beingpart of the Julián de Tolosa group. Itspecializes in meats, salt cod and monkfish.Its dining room with cider on tap anddelicious, straightforward food provides aconvincing taste of the Basque Country. Theapple-hued dining areas are divided off andsound-proofed by huge barrels of cider.

CurritoPº de la Gastronomía(Pabellón de Vizcaya-Casa de Campo)28011 MadridTel: (+34) 914 645 704curritomadrid@telefonica.netJosé María Barea, aka "Currito", broughthis grilling skills from Santurce to Madridwhere he has established a fine reputationfor the best sardines and hearty ox-beefsteaks around. Located right in the heart ofMadrid’s Casa de Campo park, this is aclassic summer destination.

UrrechuBarlovento, s/nCentro Comercial Zoco de Pozuelo28223 Somosaguas(Pozuelo de Alarcón) MadridTel: (+34) 917 157 559www.urrechu.com / reservas@urrechu.comThis cider bar occupies the lower floor ofone of the best haute cuisine restaurants inthe northwestern outskirts of Madrid.Urrechu is known for good quality rawmaterials and a close relationship with itscustomers, who include executives fromthe nearby business parks for whom itseems to exert a magnetic pull.

La Huerta de LleidaCuesta de Santo Domingo, 1628013 MadridTel: (+34) 915 478 080www.lahuertadelleida.cominfo@lahuertadelleida.comFirst and foremost this is the place for char-grilled vegetables, whose top quality doesjustice to the fertile area from which it takesits name. Snails and cod cooked over thecoals are the other specialties that ValentínBotargues serves his clientele.

ZerainQuevedo, 3. 28014 MadridTel: (+34) 914 297 909One of the latest, big, traditional Basquenames to se up a business in the capital(almost a decade ago). Cider on tap, rusticstyle, char-grilled meat and fish sum up theexperience.

Baby Beef & Porto RubaiyatJuan Ramón Jiménez, 37Tel: (+34) 913 591 00028036 Madridwww.rubaiyat.esThese two restaurants occupy a buildingthat formerly housed the fish restaurantCabo Mayor. Spanish-born Brazilianentrepreneur Belarmino Fernándezsuccessfully combines the enduringmaritime concept with an international onehere with good grill cooking and top-qualityproducts.

BARCELONA

ManairóDiputació, 42408013 BarcelonaTel: (+34) 932 310 057www.manairo.cominfo@manairo.comGiven his relationship with iron and fire,Jordi Herrera could be described as agastronomic blacksmith. His eclecticcooking techniques involve soldering, anelectric drill and inventions of his own suchas the fakir cook. His innovative approachto dishes such as steaks cooked on hotnails, meat glazed with a hot air gun andcentrifuged pigeon.

ASTURIAS

El Llar de la CampanaCtra. AS-18, km 1133192 Pruvia Llanera(Asturias)Tel: (+34) 985 265 836www.restaurantelacampana.comThough chiefly known for large-scalecatering events such as weddings andbanquets, this restaurant’s culinarystandards are by no means compromised.Since its inception, the charcoal grillpresided over by a Basque parrillero hasoccupied pride of place, and boasts a finereputation for steaks.

A W O R L D O F A S A D O R S

05-asadores.qxd 14/7/07 16:30 Página 68 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

asadores AF.qxd 9/7/07 12:59 Página 68

68 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

features seasonal produce and thegrilling skills of Miguel ÁngelHernando, whose innovative char-grilled duck-liver au naturel andkokotxas (the Basque word forcocochas–hake or cod cheeks) have hadfood critics tripping over theirsuperlatives, though his moretraditional grilled fish and meat areequally outstanding.We round off this tour at Etxebarri, theasador in Atxondno (Vizcaya) thatcurrently best represents therevolutionized methods, more daringapproach, subtle use of char-grillingand clever produce selection thatcharacterize the new wave. VíctorArguinzoniz effectively prepares hautecuisine on the grill and has becomefamous for it: he goes so far as toreplace the usual holm oak charcoalwith different aromatic woods chosento suit particular foodstuffs. The mildaromatizing smokiness produced byolive wood, vine shoots, branches ororange wood is imaginatively matchedwith the grilled products. Víctor’s workrepresents a milestone in this style ofcooking: foodies and chefs from allover the world regard him as a majoravant-garde cuisine figure and histaberna, in a big, old house, is a placeof pilgrimage for those in the know.His enthusiasm for letting the grillwork its magic on whatever producthas led to his designing various pans,grills and receptacles so that they dothe best possible job with ingredientsthat range from the usual red seabream and horse mackerel to the moreunlikely Iranian caviar and angulas(elvers), creating a method for thelatter two that unprecedentedlyobviates the need to double-cookthem. Not only are the products hecooks unexpected but his techniquesare also ingenious and rational–grills

that work from above and belowsimultaneously, for example. Pairs ofanchovies are cooked using meat-grilling methods while sea cucumberswith baby broad beans, oysters on abed of seaweed, zucchini flowers withherring, white and red shrimp,grouper, woodcock–a boundless rangeof raw materials–reveal their essentialdeliciousness in the laboratory ofcutting-edge grill cuisine that isEtxebarri.It’s hard to imagine another, moreradical new wave than the one goingon in grill cuisine today. It has neverbeen so sophisticated, so popular or sosybaritic. Who better to sum up thisquick survey of its historical andgeographical highlights than Spain’smost eminent gourmet, Julio Camba,who paradoxically declared that:“There is nothing so ancient yet somodern, so easy yet so difficult, so

simple yet so complicated, so familiaryet so exciting.”

Luis Cepeda is a journalist and theauthor of many books including Los 100platos universales de la cocina vasca(100 universal Basque dishes), Gusto dereyes (The tastes of kings and queens),Lhardy, La cocina de paradores (Paradorcuisine) and Maridaje de vinos y platos(Matching wine with food). He currentlycommentates on the food scene forOnMadrid, the leisure supplement of thedaily paper El País, and is technicaldirector of the Spanish Federation ofChefs (Federación de Cocineros deEspaña).

COOKING ON THE GRILL

CULINARYFARE

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 69

MADRID

Casa Julián de TolosaCava Baja, 1828005 MadridTel: (+34) 913 658 210www.casajuliandetolosa.comThis Madrid branch of the BasqueCountry’s pioneering ox-beef asador hasits own unbeatable method of grillingsteaks and peppers. With 20 successfulyears of behind it, this is a guaranteedchoice for eating out in the capital.

Asador ImanolGeneral Díaz Porlier, 9728006 MadridTel: (+34) 913 090 859www.asadorimanol.com Miguel Ansorena, a former pelotari andfounder of the legendary El Frontón,established Asador Imanol with theintention of building a chain (there are threebranches in Madrid) offering astraightforward formula of top-quality fishand meat cooked over charcoal.

El Álamo de Iñaki OngayCamino de Valladolid, 28-chalet28250 TorrelodonesMadridTel: (+34) 918 591 190The most tried and true asador inMadrid’s countryside. Excellent, maturebeef and quality fish skillfully char-grilledby top-flight parrillero Iñaki Ongay (trainedat Julián de Tolosa), with his owndistinctive touch.

Casa MatíasSan Leonardo, 1228015 MadridTel: (+34) 915 417 683www.casajuliandetolosa.comThis restaurant bears the guarantee of beingpart of the Julián de Tolosa group. Itspecializes in meats, salt cod and monkfish.Its dining room with cider on tap anddelicious, straightforward food provides aconvincing taste of the Basque Country. Theapple-hued dining areas are divided off andsound-proofed by huge barrels of cider.

CurritoPº de la Gastronomía(Pabellón de Vizcaya-Casa de Campo)28011 MadridTel: (+34) 914 645 704curritomadrid@telefonica.netJosé María Barea, aka "Currito", broughthis grilling skills from Santurce to Madridwhere he has established a fine reputationfor the best sardines and hearty ox-beefsteaks around. Located right in the heart ofMadrid’s Casa de Campo park, this is aclassic summer destination.

UrrechuBarlovento, s/nCentro Comercial Zoco de Pozuelo28223 Somosaguas(Pozuelo de Alarcón) MadridTel: (+34) 917 157 559www.urrechu.com / reservas@urrechu.comThis cider bar occupies the lower floor ofone of the best haute cuisine restaurants inthe northwestern outskirts of Madrid.Urrechu is known for good quality rawmaterials and a close relationship with itscustomers, who include executives fromthe nearby business parks for whom itseems to exert a magnetic pull.

La Huerta de LleidaCuesta de Santo Domingo, 1628013 MadridTel: (+34) 915 478 080www.lahuertadelleida.cominfo@lahuertadelleida.comFirst and foremost this is the place for char-grilled vegetables, whose top quality doesjustice to the fertile area from which it takesits name. Snails and cod cooked over thecoals are the other specialties that ValentínBotargues serves his clientele.

ZerainQuevedo, 3. 28014 MadridTel: (+34) 914 297 909One of the latest, big, traditional Basquenames to se up a business in the capital(almost a decade ago). Cider on tap, rusticstyle, char-grilled meat and fish sum up theexperience.

Baby Beef & Porto RubaiyatJuan Ramón Jiménez, 37Tel: (+34) 913 591 00028036 Madridwww.rubaiyat.esThese two restaurants occupy a buildingthat formerly housed the fish restaurantCabo Mayor. Spanish-born Brazilianentrepreneur Belarmino Fernándezsuccessfully combines the enduringmaritime concept with an international onehere with good grill cooking and top-qualityproducts.

BARCELONA

ManairóDiputació, 42408013 BarcelonaTel: (+34) 932 310 057www.manairo.cominfo@manairo.comGiven his relationship with iron and fire,Jordi Herrera could be described as agastronomic blacksmith. His eclecticcooking techniques involve soldering, anelectric drill and inventions of his own suchas the fakir cook. His innovative approachto dishes such as steaks cooked on hotnails, meat glazed with a hot air gun andcentrifuged pigeon.

ASTURIAS

El Llar de la CampanaCtra. AS-18, km 1133192 Pruvia Llanera(Asturias)Tel: (+34) 985 265 836www.restaurantelacampana.comThough chiefly known for large-scalecatering events such as weddings andbanquets, this restaurant’s culinarystandards are by no means compromised.Since its inception, the charcoal grillpresided over by a Basque parrillero hasoccupied pride of place, and boasts a finereputation for steaks.

A W O R L D O F A S A D O R S

05-asadores.qxd 14/7/07 16:30 Página 68 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

asadores AF.qxd 12/7/07 06:28 Página 70

70 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 71

LA RIOJA

EgüesCampa, 326005 Logroño (La Rioja)Tel: (+34) 941 228 603www.mesonegues.commeson@mesonegues.comA charming rustic restaurant right in thecenter of Logroño where Fermín Lasa,another graduate of Julián de Tolosa, char-grills Cantabrian seafood, Galician beef andRiojan vegetables.

Asador AlamedaPza. Félix Azpilicueta, s/n26360 Fuenmayor(La Rioja)Tel: (+34) 941 450 044www.restaurantealameda.comThis is the restaurant that gave the Chuletadel Alameda–considered to be one of thebest on-the-bone steaks in the whole ofSpain–its name. It is a traditional asadorbuilt of stone and old brick. Esther Álvarezis in the kitchen and Tomás Fernández is atthe grill. Togther they exercise theirconsiderable skills with select primematerials. The grilled offal, meat and fishare particularly good.

VALENCIA

AskuaFelip María Garín, 446021 ValenciaTel: (+34) 963 375 536www.askuarestaurante.comRicardo Gadea’s restaurant has embracedcontemporary design but remains faithful tothe tradition of fine cuts of mature beef,delicious sea cucumbers and juicysweetbreads.

NAVARRE

ArotxaSanta Catalina, 3431792 Legasa (Navarra)Tel: (+34) 948 456 100www.arotxa.comJust a couple of miles away from theSeñorío de Bértiz, Navarre’s splendidnatural park, this unpretentious asadorserves good, simple food made fromexcellent raw materials.

GUIPÚZCOA

Restaurante ElkanoHerrerieta, 220808 Getaria (Guipúzcoa)Tel: (+34) 943 140 024www.restauranteelkano.cominfo@restauranteelkano.comThe proprietor and chef de cuisine of thisrestaurant is the veteran cook PedroArregui, who always maintains that its onlyrecipe is "tradition plus tradition".Unsurprisingly then, its cuisine is based onsuperb quality produce and its skilledhandling. He specializes in fish and was thefirst to char-grill large fish whole.

Casa JuliánSanta Clara, 620400 Tolosa (Guipúzcoa)Tel: (+34) 943 671 417www.casajuliandetolosa.comThe pioneer Julián Rivas founded thisrestaurant in the 1960s, and today it’sknown as "the cathedral of BasqueSteaks". Matías Gorrotxategui has sincetaken over, though the fundamentalelements remain the same: the unusualparrilla contained by fire-proof bricks withglowing holm oak charcoal and the grillquite close to the fire. Meat, pure andsimple.

Asador NicolásAvda. Zumalacárregi, 6 – bajo20400 Tolosa (Guipúzcoa)Tel: (+34) 943 654 759Disciples of the Julián de Tolosa style in thechuletón capital. Meat and fish are cookedhere skillfully and simply.

BurruntziSan Francisco, 320400 Tolosa (Guipúzcoa)Tel: (+34) 943 650 559Juanjo Pascual, another disciple of themost legendary of parrilleros, cooks large,delicious on-the-bone steaks for adiscerning clientele.

TalaipePortu Zaharra, s/n20808 Getaria (Guipúzcoa)Tel: (+34) 943 140 652www.talaipe.cominfo@talaipe.comSituated in Guetaria’s medieval quarter,close to the marina and fishing port at thefoot of Cerro del Ratón. Beautifully char-grilled, fine-quality fish with grilled lobster isa star dish.

Kaia y KaipeGeneral Arnao, 420808 Getaria(Guipúzcoa)Tel: (+34) 943 140 500www.kaia-kaipe.cominfo@kaia-kaipe.comSituated alongside Zarautz parish church,this restaurant was established by IgnacioLarrañaga almost half a century ago, theasador being added ten years later. Itspecializes in fish and seafood from its ownnurseries.

Asador BeduaCtra. Zumaia-Meagas. Barrio de Bedua20750 Zumaia(Guipúzcoa)Tel: (+34) 943 860 551www.bedua.esHoused in a medieval guildhall not far fromthe Urola estuary, this highly-regarded,rustic-looking Basque asador has amarvelous terrace overlooking the river. Inaddition to its char-grilled specialties,mainly fish, it has its own kitchen gardenfrom which customers can buy produce.

Joxe MariHerriko Enparantxa, s/n20810 Orio(Guipúzcoa)Tel: (+34) 943 830 032Orio’s finest asador has long, communaltables at which its classic signature dish,char-grilled red sea bream, is served.

RekondoPº de Igueldo, 5720008 Donostia-San Sebastián(Guipúzcoa)Tel: (+34) 943 212 907www.rekondo.comThis not-to-be-missed classic on theslopes of Monte Igueldo was opened byTxomin Rekondo en 1964 as the town’strail-blazing asador. One of the mostpopular restaurants in San Sebastian, itserves traditional Basque cuisine as well asdelicious char-grilled food.

ZapiainKale Nagusia, 96-Errekalde Etxea20115 Astigarrraga(Guipúzcoa)Tel: (+34) 943 33 00 33zapiainsat@terra.esThe Zapiain family invented the formula of

eating standing up around barrels of ciderthat became quite a favorite in northernSpain. Customers drink as much cider on-tap as they like while meat and fish arechar-grilled for them. Diners can even takein their own ingredients to be cooked there.Open from Monday to Friday, eveningsonly.

VIZCAYA

Asador ZaldúaSabino Arana, 1048395 Sukarrieta-Pedernales(Vizcaya)Tel: (+34) 946 870 871www.asadorzaldua.comJuan Antonio Zaldúa serves top-quality,char-grilled meat and fish. He is particularlywell-known for his two-stage method ofgrilling steaks: covered in salt and 10 cm(4 in) away from the coals until a crisp crustforms, then 30 cm (12 in) away so that theheat reaches the interior of the meatwithout it burning or drying out.

EtxebarriPlaza de San Juan, 148291 Axpe-Marzana - Atxondo (Vizcaya)Tel: (+34) 946 583 042Víctor Arguinzoniz’s work represents amilestone in this style of cooking: foodiesand chefs from all over the world regardhim as a major figure in avant-gardecuisine. His enthusiasm for letting the grillwork its magic on whatever product hasled to his designing various pans, grillesand receptacles so that he can includeingredients that range from the usual redsea bream to the more unlikely Iraniancaviar and angulas (elvers). Not only doeshe cook unexpected foods, but histechniques are also ingenious and rationallyapplied.

Asador RipaMuelle Ripa, s/n48001 Bilbao (Vizcaya)Tel: (+34) 944 249 295www.asadorripa.comasadorripa@asadorripa.comOwned by the Bustinza family, who arealso proprietors of the reputable HormaHondo asador, this restaurant focuses onseasonal produce and Miguel ÁngelHernando’s parrillero skills. His char-grilledduck liver au naturel and hake or codcheek are particularly good, though hissuperb fish and meat are by no meansoutdone.

ÁLAVA

SagartokiPrado, 1801005 Vitoria (Álava)Tel: (+34) 945 288 676www.sagartoki.esSenén González’s restaurant has twofacets: it has one of the best pinchos(tapas) bars in the whole of Spain and alsoincorporates an experimental asador-sidrería. It is particularly good for grilledfish, in particular unusual species, and thechar-grilled beef and Iberico secreto porkare also exceptionally good.

05-asadores.qxd 14/7/07 16:31 Página 70 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

asadores AF.qxd 12/7/07 06:28 Página 70

70 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 71

LA RIOJA

EgüesCampa, 326005 Logroño (La Rioja)Tel: (+34) 941 228 603www.mesonegues.commeson@mesonegues.comA charming rustic restaurant right in thecenter of Logroño where Fermín Lasa,another graduate of Julián de Tolosa, char-grills Cantabrian seafood, Galician beef andRiojan vegetables.

Asador AlamedaPza. Félix Azpilicueta, s/n26360 Fuenmayor(La Rioja)Tel: (+34) 941 450 044www.restaurantealameda.comThis is the restaurant that gave the Chuletadel Alameda–considered to be one of thebest on-the-bone steaks in the whole ofSpain–its name. It is a traditional asadorbuilt of stone and old brick. Esther Álvarezis in the kitchen and Tomás Fernández is atthe grill. Togther they exercise theirconsiderable skills with select primematerials. The grilled offal, meat and fishare particularly good.

VALENCIA

AskuaFelip María Garín, 446021 ValenciaTel: (+34) 963 375 536www.askuarestaurante.comRicardo Gadea’s restaurant has embracedcontemporary design but remains faithful tothe tradition of fine cuts of mature beef,delicious sea cucumbers and juicysweetbreads.

NAVARRE

ArotxaSanta Catalina, 3431792 Legasa (Navarra)Tel: (+34) 948 456 100www.arotxa.comJust a couple of miles away from theSeñorío de Bértiz, Navarre’s splendidnatural park, this unpretentious asadorserves good, simple food made fromexcellent raw materials.

GUIPÚZCOA

Restaurante ElkanoHerrerieta, 220808 Getaria (Guipúzcoa)Tel: (+34) 943 140 024www.restauranteelkano.cominfo@restauranteelkano.comThe proprietor and chef de cuisine of thisrestaurant is the veteran cook PedroArregui, who always maintains that its onlyrecipe is "tradition plus tradition".Unsurprisingly then, its cuisine is based onsuperb quality produce and its skilledhandling. He specializes in fish and was thefirst to char-grill large fish whole.

Casa JuliánSanta Clara, 620400 Tolosa (Guipúzcoa)Tel: (+34) 943 671 417www.casajuliandetolosa.comThe pioneer Julián Rivas founded thisrestaurant in the 1960s, and today it’sknown as "the cathedral of BasqueSteaks". Matías Gorrotxategui has sincetaken over, though the fundamentalelements remain the same: the unusualparrilla contained by fire-proof bricks withglowing holm oak charcoal and the grillquite close to the fire. Meat, pure andsimple.

Asador NicolásAvda. Zumalacárregi, 6 – bajo20400 Tolosa (Guipúzcoa)Tel: (+34) 943 654 759Disciples of the Julián de Tolosa style in thechuletón capital. Meat and fish are cookedhere skillfully and simply.

BurruntziSan Francisco, 320400 Tolosa (Guipúzcoa)Tel: (+34) 943 650 559Juanjo Pascual, another disciple of themost legendary of parrilleros, cooks large,delicious on-the-bone steaks for adiscerning clientele.

TalaipePortu Zaharra, s/n20808 Getaria (Guipúzcoa)Tel: (+34) 943 140 652www.talaipe.cominfo@talaipe.comSituated in Guetaria’s medieval quarter,close to the marina and fishing port at thefoot of Cerro del Ratón. Beautifully char-grilled, fine-quality fish with grilled lobster isa star dish.

Kaia y KaipeGeneral Arnao, 420808 Getaria(Guipúzcoa)Tel: (+34) 943 140 500www.kaia-kaipe.cominfo@kaia-kaipe.comSituated alongside Zarautz parish church,this restaurant was established by IgnacioLarrañaga almost half a century ago, theasador being added ten years later. Itspecializes in fish and seafood from its ownnurseries.

Asador BeduaCtra. Zumaia-Meagas. Barrio de Bedua20750 Zumaia(Guipúzcoa)Tel: (+34) 943 860 551www.bedua.esHoused in a medieval guildhall not far fromthe Urola estuary, this highly-regarded,rustic-looking Basque asador has amarvelous terrace overlooking the river. Inaddition to its char-grilled specialties,mainly fish, it has its own kitchen gardenfrom which customers can buy produce.

Joxe MariHerriko Enparantxa, s/n20810 Orio(Guipúzcoa)Tel: (+34) 943 830 032Orio’s finest asador has long, communaltables at which its classic signature dish,char-grilled red sea bream, is served.

RekondoPº de Igueldo, 5720008 Donostia-San Sebastián(Guipúzcoa)Tel: (+34) 943 212 907www.rekondo.comThis not-to-be-missed classic on theslopes of Monte Igueldo was opened byTxomin Rekondo en 1964 as the town’strail-blazing asador. One of the mostpopular restaurants in San Sebastian, itserves traditional Basque cuisine as well asdelicious char-grilled food.

ZapiainKale Nagusia, 96-Errekalde Etxea20115 Astigarrraga(Guipúzcoa)Tel: (+34) 943 33 00 33zapiainsat@terra.esThe Zapiain family invented the formula of

eating standing up around barrels of ciderthat became quite a favorite in northernSpain. Customers drink as much cider on-tap as they like while meat and fish arechar-grilled for them. Diners can even takein their own ingredients to be cooked there.Open from Monday to Friday, eveningsonly.

VIZCAYA

Asador ZaldúaSabino Arana, 1048395 Sukarrieta-Pedernales(Vizcaya)Tel: (+34) 946 870 871www.asadorzaldua.comJuan Antonio Zaldúa serves top-quality,char-grilled meat and fish. He is particularlywell-known for his two-stage method ofgrilling steaks: covered in salt and 10 cm(4 in) away from the coals until a crisp crustforms, then 30 cm (12 in) away so that theheat reaches the interior of the meatwithout it burning or drying out.

EtxebarriPlaza de San Juan, 148291 Axpe-Marzana - Atxondo (Vizcaya)Tel: (+34) 946 583 042Víctor Arguinzoniz’s work represents amilestone in this style of cooking: foodiesand chefs from all over the world regardhim as a major figure in avant-gardecuisine. His enthusiasm for letting the grillwork its magic on whatever product hasled to his designing various pans, grillesand receptacles so that he can includeingredients that range from the usual redsea bream to the more unlikely Iraniancaviar and angulas (elvers). Not only doeshe cook unexpected foods, but histechniques are also ingenious and rationallyapplied.

Asador RipaMuelle Ripa, s/n48001 Bilbao (Vizcaya)Tel: (+34) 944 249 295www.asadorripa.comasadorripa@asadorripa.comOwned by the Bustinza family, who arealso proprietors of the reputable HormaHondo asador, this restaurant focuses onseasonal produce and Miguel ÁngelHernando’s parrillero skills. His char-grilledduck liver au naturel and hake or codcheek are particularly good, though hissuperb fish and meat are by no meansoutdone.

ÁLAVA

SagartokiPrado, 1801005 Vitoria (Álava)Tel: (+34) 945 288 676www.sagartoki.esSenén González’s restaurant has twofacets: it has one of the best pinchos(tapas) bars in the whole of Spain and alsoincorporates an experimental asador-sidrería. It is particularly good for grilledfish, in particular unusual species, and thechar-grilled beef and Iberico secreto porkare also exceptionally good.

05-asadores.qxd 14/7/07 16:31 Página 70 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

TRUFAS AF.qxd 9/7/07 13:19 Página 72

“The black truffle is the soul of nature, its hidden essence.” This is a categorical

statement from Santi Santamaría, the Spanish chef with the most Michelin stars

for his three restaurants: Can Fabes, which has three, Santceloni, with two, and

Evo, with one. But before it reached the world’s top kitchens, this delicacy had

to travel through time and space, from the depths of the earth to the table, in

a mist of darkness and magic.

EARTHYAROMAS

06-TRUFAS.qxd 14/7/07 16:34 Página 72 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

TRUFAS AF.qxd 9/7/07 13:19 Página 72

“The black truffle is the soul of nature, its hidden essence.” This is a categorical

statement from Santi Santamaría, the Spanish chef with the most Michelin stars

for his three restaurants: Can Fabes, which has three, Santceloni, with two, and

Evo, with one. But before it reached the world’s top kitchens, this delicacy had

to travel through time and space, from the depths of the earth to the table, in

a mist of darkness and magic.

EARTHYAROMAS

06-TRUFAS.qxd 14/7/07 16:34 Página 72 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

TRUFAS AF.qxd 12/7/07 02:10 Página 74

with low temperatures in the winterand mild summers. When all thesefactors come together, the life storyof the truffle can begin. But it takes afull year of patient waiting.We start out in the depths of winterin a field of holm oaks. Snuggled upagainst the roots of a tree is a blacktruffle, one that must release itsspores and begin its reproduction.So nature performs another of itstricks. The dense, pungent, unique

aroma of the truffle attracts animalswith a well-developed sense of smell,such as wild boars, badgers, foxesand even insects that seek out thetruffle as food. They then propagatethe spores, helping them reach theroots of other trees that can cradlethe development of further truffles.Then comes spring. By this time thespore has found its place amongstthe roots of the new tree, formingthe mycorrhiza. During May and

June, the truffle starts to form butwill only do so if it receives plenty ofmoisture during the summer. This isone of the most delicate stages ofdevelopment. Without rain, thefungus will not grow and will remainhidden forever; however, with rain,in August and September it willswell and reach the last phase of itslife cycle.In autumn, development stops andmaturation starts, a process which

74 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 75

The oldest texts known to man werefound many centuries ago inMesopotamia, engraved on clay. TheSumerian society at that time knewof the fruit that grew undergroundwithout being sown and that wenton to become one of the favoritefoods of kings. It was a fungusbelonging to the tuberaceous species,genus Tuber, a truffle. We now know,centuries later, that the AncientEgyptians were very fond of truffles.Several chronicles report that thePharaoh Cheops liked to eat themcoated in goose fat and cooked enpapillote. The Jewish people alsorevered truffles. The story of theirdiscovery of manna, a gift from Godto his people, is described in thebook of Exodus and, according tosome interpretations, manna mighthave been a sort of truffle. And theGreeks and Romans, fromPythagoras to Pliny and Cicero, sangthe praises of this fungus thatfeatured on the tables of RomanEmperors and senators.However, with the arrival of the

Middle Ages, the truffle fell intoobscurity. Its mysterious origin–justappearing in woodlands, on barrenland, underground but apparentlywithout roots–led the church,followed by public opinion, toconsider it evil and associate it withthe devil.Fortunately, with the Renaissance,the truffle made a comeback as adelicacy and superstitions were leftbehind. It started to appear in theEuropean Courts, especially inFrance. The French gastronome andwriter Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarinpaid tribute to it in his Physiology ofTaste, with one of the most famoussentences with regards to the truffle,calling it “the black diamond ofgastronomy”. That was in 1825.Since then the truffle has neverceased to grow in popularity and itsqualities have been admired by alllovers of good food. Nobody todaymentions its evil associations but fewcan deny that as a temptation it ishard to resist.

Asleep amongthe rootsThe black truffle, or Tubermelanosporum, is an undergroundfungus with a similar origin to thatof the white Piamonte truffle (Tubermagnatum) and other truffles offeringless quality and aroma, such as Tuberbrumale and Tuber aestivum, thesummer truffle. The shape is more orless spherical, and the surface isrough, with small pyramid-likelumps. It needs such special growingconditions that it is only found inthe Mediterranean Basin countries.Spain, together with Italy andFrance, is one of the main producercountries.The black truffle can only develop insymbiosis with the roots of certainquercus trees, especially holm oaks,oaks and hazelnut. But it also needsthe right climate and a precisegeographical location. The tree itgrows with must have its roots inlimy soil, with a pH between 7 and8.5, and the climate must be cold,

BLACK TRUFFLE

FOODBASICS

BLACK TRUFFLE

FOODBASICS

TEXTJORGE LUIS BARTOLOMÉ

PHOTOSJUAN MANUEL SANZ/ICEX

TRANSLATIONJENNY MCDONALD

06-TRUFAS.qxd 16/7/07 14:08 Página 74 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

TRUFAS AF.qxd 12/7/07 02:10 Página 74

with low temperatures in the winterand mild summers. When all thesefactors come together, the life storyof the truffle can begin. But it takes afull year of patient waiting.We start out in the depths of winterin a field of holm oaks. Snuggled upagainst the roots of a tree is a blacktruffle, one that must release itsspores and begin its reproduction.So nature performs another of itstricks. The dense, pungent, unique

aroma of the truffle attracts animalswith a well-developed sense of smell,such as wild boars, badgers, foxesand even insects that seek out thetruffle as food. They then propagatethe spores, helping them reach theroots of other trees that can cradlethe development of further truffles.Then comes spring. By this time thespore has found its place amongstthe roots of the new tree, formingthe mycorrhiza. During May and

June, the truffle starts to form butwill only do so if it receives plenty ofmoisture during the summer. This isone of the most delicate stages ofdevelopment. Without rain, thefungus will not grow and will remainhidden forever; however, with rain,in August and September it willswell and reach the last phase of itslife cycle.In autumn, development stops andmaturation starts, a process which

74 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 75

The oldest texts known to man werefound many centuries ago inMesopotamia, engraved on clay. TheSumerian society at that time knewof the fruit that grew undergroundwithout being sown and that wenton to become one of the favoritefoods of kings. It was a fungusbelonging to the tuberaceous species,genus Tuber, a truffle. We now know,centuries later, that the AncientEgyptians were very fond of truffles.Several chronicles report that thePharaoh Cheops liked to eat themcoated in goose fat and cooked enpapillote. The Jewish people alsorevered truffles. The story of theirdiscovery of manna, a gift from Godto his people, is described in thebook of Exodus and, according tosome interpretations, manna mighthave been a sort of truffle. And theGreeks and Romans, fromPythagoras to Pliny and Cicero, sangthe praises of this fungus thatfeatured on the tables of RomanEmperors and senators.However, with the arrival of the

Middle Ages, the truffle fell intoobscurity. Its mysterious origin–justappearing in woodlands, on barrenland, underground but apparentlywithout roots–led the church,followed by public opinion, toconsider it evil and associate it withthe devil.Fortunately, with the Renaissance,the truffle made a comeback as adelicacy and superstitions were leftbehind. It started to appear in theEuropean Courts, especially inFrance. The French gastronome andwriter Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarinpaid tribute to it in his Physiology ofTaste, with one of the most famoussentences with regards to the truffle,calling it “the black diamond ofgastronomy”. That was in 1825.Since then the truffle has neverceased to grow in popularity and itsqualities have been admired by alllovers of good food. Nobody todaymentions its evil associations but fewcan deny that as a temptation it ishard to resist.

Asleep amongthe rootsThe black truffle, or Tubermelanosporum, is an undergroundfungus with a similar origin to thatof the white Piamonte truffle (Tubermagnatum) and other truffles offeringless quality and aroma, such as Tuberbrumale and Tuber aestivum, thesummer truffle. The shape is more orless spherical, and the surface isrough, with small pyramid-likelumps. It needs such special growingconditions that it is only found inthe Mediterranean Basin countries.Spain, together with Italy andFrance, is one of the main producercountries.The black truffle can only develop insymbiosis with the roots of certainquercus trees, especially holm oaks,oaks and hazelnut. But it also needsthe right climate and a precisegeographical location. The tree itgrows with must have its roots inlimy soil, with a pH between 7 and8.5, and the climate must be cold,

BLACK TRUFFLE

FOODBASICS

BLACK TRUFFLE

FOODBASICSTEXT

JORGE LUIS BARTOLOMÉ

PHOTOSJUAN MANUEL SANZ/ICEX

TRANSLATIONJENNY MCDONALD

06-TRUFAS.qxd 16/7/07 14:08 Página 74 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

TRUFAS AF.qxd 9/7/07 13:22 Página 76

economic driving forces for thisdistrict.Turning his gaze from Metauten’squiet silhouette, Serafín explains,“Truffle growing is a good option forthe people in the valley. We are nowproducing truffles on more than100 ha (247 acres) of land, notcounting the mountain, of course.We also have the museum. Thetruffle is helping the valleys copewith depopulation. I think this is thebeginning of something that’s goingto grow in the future.”

And so they growtreesAnother area where the truffle hashelped the local economy is in theprovince of Soria. In order to see oneof the companies that has taken fulladvantage of this gift from the land,we head to the small town ofNavaleno, in the northwest area ofthe Soria province, just 50 km(31 mi) from the capital.There are seven towns along the roadbetween the city of Soria and

Navaleno, and here things move at adifferent pace. The older inhabitantssit in front of the doors of theirhouses, slowly watching life goby–along with the occasionalvehicle. Alone with their thoughts,they watch the mountains and thetrees that have withstood many acold winter. One of those mountainsis home to the 600-ha (1,482-acre)plantation of mycorrhized holm oaksthat belong to the company Arotz.I am greeted on the Arotz premisesby José Ignacio Ruiz, who isresponsible for the firm’s exports.

His comments are in line withSerafín’s. “These plantations haveturned into one of the safest bets forthis area. You can control the yieldand guarantee annual production,depending much less on luck, onnature and on the lack of rainfall.”This plantation and the company goback to 1969, when a Navarrantrader named Salvador Arotz Arenahad the idea of creating an artificialholm oak wood to produce blacktruffles. The techniques of injectingthe trees with the truffle myceliumbefore planting had already been

76 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

comes to an end between Novemberand March, the harvesting season.This is when the truffle starts torelease its characteristic aroma toattract animals and the reproductionprocess starts all over again.And now comes man. With the helpof an animal, usually a specially-trained dog (although pigs or eventamed wild boars can be used, orcertain insects can be followed), theyhunt for this small black jewel, thisgastronomic gem.

Buried treasureBlack truffles have traditionally beenfound in wild areas. The oak woodsin many parts of Spain have alwaysbeen one of the preferred hunting-grounds for truffle collectors but,during the last few decades, wildtruffles have become scarce, so treespreviously mycorrhized with thetruffle mycelium are now beingplanted. Such plantations have beenset up in most of the historical truffleareas, especially in Soria and Teruel,in northeast Spain. The trees arecarefully tended and pruned and,

with time, begin to give the firstfruits. The locals wait patiently withthe typical calm demeanor that hascharacterized them generation aftergeneration.Looking into the eyes of one of thesemen, I get the impression that he hasbeen gazing for years over the jaggedhorizon of the valley, over the sharpsilhouettes of the mountains. Hisname is Sefarín Nieva. This is theMetauten valley, in the Navarredistrict of Urbasa Lóquiz Estella,opposite the town that gave it itsname. He is the president of theLóquiz Truffle Growers Associationthat operates in this area, close to thecity of Pamplona.He scans the valley, with its fivetowns, its vineyards, its cereal fieldsand the herbs that grow freely allaround. He reminds me of a sailor,always looking towards the skyline,watching out for changes in theweather. Behind us is the TruffleInterpretation Center in the town ofMetauten, Spain’s first trufflemuseum.Serafín is a lively conversationalist,

but a touch of nostalgia creeps in atthe end of every sentence. “A fewyears ago, all the land was cultivated.But there’s not much soil and whatremains is poor quality, so peoplehave been leaving for the citieswhere they can make a lot moremoney. But for a while now it seemsthat the land is, in fact, good fortruffles, at least good enough forsome people to be able to stay. That’svery important for us.”Serafín is the spokesperson for the300 inhabitants of this valley, and hiswords could apply to many ofSpain’s truffle-growing areas, most ofwhich are in under-populatedregions. If the conditions are rightfor truffles, they are not likely to bevery good for other types of crops.A car drives towards us and thedriver honks his horn to greetSerafín, and then continues uptowards the villages–Ollogoyen,Ganuza, Arteaga, Ollobarren–locatedat the foot of the Lóquiz mountains.On both sides of the road are smallplots planted with truffle trees. Thesesmall woods are becoming one of the

BLACK TRUFFLE

FOODBASICS

06-TRUFAS.qxd 14/7/07 17:49 Página 76 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

TRUFAS AF.qxd 9/7/07 13:22 Página 76

economic driving forces for thisdistrict.Turning his gaze from Metauten’squiet silhouette, Serafín explains,“Truffle growing is a good option forthe people in the valley. We are nowproducing truffles on more than100 ha (247 acres) of land, notcounting the mountain, of course.We also have the museum. Thetruffle is helping the valleys copewith depopulation. I think this is thebeginning of something that’s goingto grow in the future.”

And so they growtreesAnother area where the truffle hashelped the local economy is in theprovince of Soria. In order to see oneof the companies that has taken fulladvantage of this gift from the land,we head to the small town ofNavaleno, in the northwest area ofthe Soria province, just 50 km(31 mi) from the capital.There are seven towns along the roadbetween the city of Soria and

Navaleno, and here things move at adifferent pace. The older inhabitantssit in front of the doors of theirhouses, slowly watching life goby–along with the occasionalvehicle. Alone with their thoughts,they watch the mountains and thetrees that have withstood many acold winter. One of those mountainsis home to the 600-ha (1,482-acre)plantation of mycorrhized holm oaksthat belong to the company Arotz.I am greeted on the Arotz premisesby José Ignacio Ruiz, who isresponsible for the firm’s exports.

His comments are in line withSerafín’s. “These plantations haveturned into one of the safest bets forthis area. You can control the yieldand guarantee annual production,depending much less on luck, onnature and on the lack of rainfall.”This plantation and the company goback to 1969, when a Navarrantrader named Salvador Arotz Arenahad the idea of creating an artificialholm oak wood to produce blacktruffles. The techniques of injectingthe trees with the truffle myceliumbefore planting had already been

76 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

comes to an end between Novemberand March, the harvesting season.This is when the truffle starts torelease its characteristic aroma toattract animals and the reproductionprocess starts all over again.And now comes man. With the helpof an animal, usually a specially-trained dog (although pigs or eventamed wild boars can be used, orcertain insects can be followed), theyhunt for this small black jewel, thisgastronomic gem.

Buried treasureBlack truffles have traditionally beenfound in wild areas. The oak woodsin many parts of Spain have alwaysbeen one of the preferred hunting-grounds for truffle collectors but,during the last few decades, wildtruffles have become scarce, so treespreviously mycorrhized with thetruffle mycelium are now beingplanted. Such plantations have beenset up in most of the historical truffleareas, especially in Soria and Teruel,in northeast Spain. The trees arecarefully tended and pruned and,

with time, begin to give the firstfruits. The locals wait patiently withthe typical calm demeanor that hascharacterized them generation aftergeneration.Looking into the eyes of one of thesemen, I get the impression that he hasbeen gazing for years over the jaggedhorizon of the valley, over the sharpsilhouettes of the mountains. Hisname is Sefarín Nieva. This is theMetauten valley, in the Navarredistrict of Urbasa Lóquiz Estella,opposite the town that gave it itsname. He is the president of theLóquiz Truffle Growers Associationthat operates in this area, close to thecity of Pamplona.He scans the valley, with its fivetowns, its vineyards, its cereal fieldsand the herbs that grow freely allaround. He reminds me of a sailor,always looking towards the skyline,watching out for changes in theweather. Behind us is the TruffleInterpretation Center in the town ofMetauten, Spain’s first trufflemuseum.Serafín is a lively conversationalist,

but a touch of nostalgia creeps in atthe end of every sentence. “A fewyears ago, all the land was cultivated.But there’s not much soil and whatremains is poor quality, so peoplehave been leaving for the citieswhere they can make a lot moremoney. But for a while now it seemsthat the land is, in fact, good fortruffles, at least good enough forsome people to be able to stay. That’svery important for us.”Serafín is the spokesperson for the300 inhabitants of this valley, and hiswords could apply to many ofSpain’s truffle-growing areas, most ofwhich are in under-populatedregions. If the conditions are rightfor truffles, they are not likely to bevery good for other types of crops.A car drives towards us and thedriver honks his horn to greetSerafín, and then continues uptowards the villages–Ollogoyen,Ganuza, Arteaga, Ollobarren–locatedat the foot of the Lóquiz mountains.On both sides of the road are smallplots planted with truffle trees. Thesesmall woods are becoming one of the

BLACK TRUFFLE

FOODBASICS

06-TRUFAS.qxd 14/7/07 17:49 Página 76 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

TRUFAS AF.qxd 9/7/07 13:23 Página 78

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 79

price for the black truffle is set.Dealers and harvesters communicateby signs and monosyllables, closingdeals worth thousands of euros.Truffle markets have always takenplace in venues like this, surroundedby secrecy and darkness.But now there are associations oftruffle-growers who are determinedto develop the world of the truffle.They already exist in Catalonia andAragón, bringing together othersmall associations that have beencreated in the producing regions.And companies are beginning tofight to get into this competitiveworld of truffles and truffle by-

products. One of the best examples

is Manjares de la Tierra (Spain

Gourmetour No. 70), a company that

sells and processes black truffles,

located in Sarrión (Teruel). María

Jesús Agustín, one of its founders,

explains, “There have always been

Tuber melanosporum in the

mountains of Sarrión. The reason we

set up our company was to make

black truffles better known. They’re

one of nature’s most amazing foods

and we wanted to give them a name,

and a brand that consumers could

trust.”

Reaching newheightsFinally, we reach the kitchen, themoment for which everybody’s beenwaiting. In the winter, just hoursafter being dug out of the earth (ifleft for too long, the aroma fades),the black truffle enters the mostprestigious of restaurants throughthe back door. The whole kitchenfills with their unmistakable,sweetish, earthy smell. The time hascome for the chefs to use theirimagination, to create culinarymasterpieces full of subtleties anddetails.We ask a group of Spanish chefswhat dishes they would make withblack truffles. Most of them hesitatebefore answering, but then the ideasstart flowing. Santi Santamaríaconsiders one of the best possibledishes to be truffle baked in clay,although he also mentions wholetruffle in puff pastry or grated trufflein potato soup, in addition to trufflewith a little pork fat, wrapped inpaper and baked over hot coals.Mario Sandoval, from his restaurantCoque in Humanes in Madrid,maintains that one of his favorites isfried free-range egg with trufflegrated over the top. Manuel de laOsa, from his Las Rejas restaurant inthe town of Las Pedroñeras inCuenca, prefers wild radish wafersfilled with pieces of truffle in a greenpineapple stock. And Paco Roncero,from La Terraza del Casino deMadrid, suggests cardoons withchestnuts and truffle.But both chefs and experts agree onthe outstanding properties andversatility of the black truffle. As aningredient in sauces and stews, itgives off its full aroma. But,

BLACK TRUFFLE

FOODBASICS

78 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

developed, but nobody had appliedthem on such a large scale. Now,years later, Arotz is one of Spain’smost important truffle companiesand a European standout in itssector. “Obviously,” says José IgnacioRuiz, “customers like to know theirsupplier can provide them withtruffles every year, and we’ve beenable to build up that confidence.”But such certainty can only comewith hard work in the field, withpruning, light plowing andespecially irrigation in the summer.But truffles are not only being grownin Soria and Navarre. In some areas,truffles are harvested both in thewild and on cultivated plantations.Examples can be found in Teruel orGraus (in the foothills of thePyrenees, in Huesca, in northernSpain), where there are about1,000 ha (2,471 acres) growingmycorrhized trees.At the other end of the scale is thetown of Morella, in inland Castellónon the east coast, which hascontinued to harvest wild truffleswith almost no plantations.Guadalajara and Cuenca, in thecenter of Spain, are in the early daysof truffle cultivation.

Winter warmthIt’s midnight in the bar at the railwaystation. We are in the town of Morade Rubielos in Teruel, in northeastSpain, on a bitterly cold winternight. It’s truffle season and a groupof locals are drinking wine,whispering together. This is thelocation of one of Spain’s mostimportant truffle markets. Here andin other similar places, in the townsof Graus (Huesca), Vic (Barcelona),Morella (Castellón) and Molina deAragón (Guadalajara), the week’s

BLACK TRUFFLE

FOODBASICS

In the Metauten valley, with the Lóquiz Mountains in the background, a whitebuilding stands out: it’s the site of the recently-opened Truffle InterpretationCenter. Its displays show how the black truffle develops in symbiosis with theholm oak’s roots, an animated projection shows how the whole process worksand in the background are some of the tools used by truffle harvesters.This is the first truffle museum in Spain. María Martínez Etxeberría takes usaround the exhibits and photos, explaining the reasons for setting up this jewel ofa museum. "We want people to treat truffles as they deserve to be treated. Wewant them to know what truffles are, how they form, what they are made up ofand what properties they have," she says, with pride. "And this is just thebeginning. We hope by next year to be able to give visitors a demonstrationshowing how truffles are found." Just a few dozen feet from the museum, severalmycorrhized holm oaks await their maturity, when they will take on the role asinformants and teachers.But it is not only in Metauten that museums and interpretation centers are beingset up. In Graus, in the province of Huesca, plans are underway for a truffle-growing experimentation center to study different ways of improving the processof mycorrhizing plants with the truffle fungus. And in Navaleno there is a museumdedicated to the local fungi, among which the black truffle reigns supreme.

T R U F F L E S I N T H E S P O T L I G H T

06-TRUFAS.qxd 19/7/07 17:01 Página 78 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

TRUFAS AF.qxd 9/7/07 13:23 Página 78

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 79

price for the black truffle is set.Dealers and harvesters communicateby signs and monosyllables, closingdeals worth thousands of euros.Truffle markets have always takenplace in venues like this, surroundedby secrecy and darkness.But now there are associations oftruffle-growers who are determinedto develop the world of the truffle.They already exist in Catalonia andAragón, bringing together othersmall associations that have beencreated in the producing regions.And companies are beginning tofight to get into this competitiveworld of truffles and truffle by-

products. One of the best examples

is Manjares de la Tierra (Spain

Gourmetour No. 70), a company that

sells and processes black truffles,

located in Sarrión (Teruel). María

Jesús Agustín, one of its founders,

explains, “There have always been

Tuber melanosporum in the

mountains of Sarrión. The reason we

set up our company was to make

black truffles better known. They’re

one of nature’s most amazing foods

and we wanted to give them a name,

and a brand that consumers could

trust.”

Reaching newheightsFinally, we reach the kitchen, themoment for which everybody’s beenwaiting. In the winter, just hoursafter being dug out of the earth (ifleft for too long, the aroma fades),the black truffle enters the mostprestigious of restaurants throughthe back door. The whole kitchenfills with their unmistakable,sweetish, earthy smell. The time hascome for the chefs to use theirimagination, to create culinarymasterpieces full of subtleties anddetails.We ask a group of Spanish chefswhat dishes they would make withblack truffles. Most of them hesitatebefore answering, but then the ideasstart flowing. Santi Santamaríaconsiders one of the best possibledishes to be truffle baked in clay,although he also mentions wholetruffle in puff pastry or grated trufflein potato soup, in addition to trufflewith a little pork fat, wrapped inpaper and baked over hot coals.Mario Sandoval, from his restaurantCoque in Humanes in Madrid,maintains that one of his favorites isfried free-range egg with trufflegrated over the top. Manuel de laOsa, from his Las Rejas restaurant inthe town of Las Pedroñeras inCuenca, prefers wild radish wafersfilled with pieces of truffle in a greenpineapple stock. And Paco Roncero,from La Terraza del Casino deMadrid, suggests cardoons withchestnuts and truffle.But both chefs and experts agree onthe outstanding properties andversatility of the black truffle. As aningredient in sauces and stews, itgives off its full aroma. But,

BLACK TRUFFLE

FOODBASICS

78 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

developed, but nobody had appliedthem on such a large scale. Now,years later, Arotz is one of Spain’smost important truffle companiesand a European standout in itssector. “Obviously,” says José IgnacioRuiz, “customers like to know theirsupplier can provide them withtruffles every year, and we’ve beenable to build up that confidence.”But such certainty can only comewith hard work in the field, withpruning, light plowing andespecially irrigation in the summer.But truffles are not only being grownin Soria and Navarre. In some areas,truffles are harvested both in thewild and on cultivated plantations.Examples can be found in Teruel orGraus (in the foothills of thePyrenees, in Huesca, in northernSpain), where there are about1,000 ha (2,471 acres) growingmycorrhized trees.At the other end of the scale is thetown of Morella, in inland Castellónon the east coast, which hascontinued to harvest wild truffleswith almost no plantations.Guadalajara and Cuenca, in thecenter of Spain, are in the early daysof truffle cultivation.

Winter warmthIt’s midnight in the bar at the railwaystation. We are in the town of Morade Rubielos in Teruel, in northeastSpain, on a bitterly cold winternight. It’s truffle season and a groupof locals are drinking wine,whispering together. This is thelocation of one of Spain’s mostimportant truffle markets. Here andin other similar places, in the townsof Graus (Huesca), Vic (Barcelona),Morella (Castellón) and Molina deAragón (Guadalajara), the week’s

BLACK TRUFFLE

FOODBASICS

In the Metauten valley, with the Lóquiz Mountains in the background, a whitebuilding stands out: it’s the site of the recently-opened Truffle InterpretationCenter. Its displays show how the black truffle develops in symbiosis with theholm oak’s roots, an animated projection shows how the whole process worksand in the background are some of the tools used by truffle harvesters.This is the first truffle museum in Spain. María Martínez Etxeberría takes usaround the exhibits and photos, explaining the reasons for setting up this jewel ofa museum. "We want people to treat truffles as they deserve to be treated. Wewant them to know what truffles are, how they form, what they are made up ofand what properties they have," she says, with pride. "And this is just thebeginning. We hope by next year to be able to give visitors a demonstrationshowing how truffles are found." Just a few dozen feet from the museum, severalmycorrhized holm oaks await their maturity, when they will take on the role asinformants and teachers.But it is not only in Metauten that museums and interpretation centers are beingset up. In Graus, in the province of Huesca, plans are underway for a truffle-growing experimentation center to study different ways of improving the processof mycorrhizing plants with the truffle fungus. And in Navaleno there is a museumdedicated to the local fungi, among which the black truffle reigns supreme.

T R U F F L E S I N T H E S P O T L I G H T

06-TRUFAS.qxd 19/7/07 17:01 Página 78 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

TRUFAS AF.qxd 12/7/07 02:11 Página 80

80 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 81

according to Manuel de la Osa, theyshould not be cooked at atemperature greater than 70ºC(158ºF), or the truffle’s propertiesbegin to lessen.Another frequent way of usingtruffles is as the final garnish, gratingit or placing thin slices on the top ofthe dish, preferably at the table. Thisway the temperature of the cookeddish brings out the truffle aroma,achieving an instant, almost magicalresult.One of the most surprisingcomments comes from Juan PabloFelipe from the restaurant El Chaflánin Madrid. He believes the blacktruffle can even be used to givedifferent nuances to wine, andrecommends placing a few pieces ofTuber melanosporum in wine glassesto offer new sensations, a new wineexperience. “It’s only an experimentreally,” says the chef, “but it’s worthtrying.”

Jorge Luis Bartolomé hascollaborated with Canal Sur, OndaPunta TV and on the literary journalNvmenor. He is currently an internjournalist at Spain Gourmetour.

BLACK TRUFFLE

FOODBASICS

Normally, fresh black truffles can only be eaten when they are in season, fromNovember to March, but today a small processing and canning sector now allowsconsumption of truffle products all year round.Options for the summer months are truffles in their own juices or in brandy, or deep-frozen truffles. Several companies, such as Laumont and Arotz, have developed thistype of processed truffle.If the idea is to cook with truffles, one possibility is to use the cooking juices fromnatural truffles, which is sold, among other products, by Manjares de la Tierra. Or, ofcourse, extra virgin olive oils with truffle or vinegar with Tuber melanosporum aromaare available, ideal for all sorts of dressings.Another way of sampling black truffle is in foods with which it is made. Trysalchichón with truffle from a company called Riera Ordeix, in Vic (Barcelona), or henstuffed with truffles, sold by Melsa, a company in Graus (Huelva) that has beenperfecting this recipe for over a hundred years: hen stuffed with pork sirloin or curedham and marinated with black truffle and Armagnac.Another interesting option is eggs with truffle aroma, a simple but delicious idea.Eggs are left in contact with a fresh black truffle for a week so that the porous shellscan allow the unmistakable truffle flavor to penetrate the egg inside.Curiously enough, the British royal family is known to consume one of the mostexquisite truffle preparations on the market: goose liver with Spanish black truffle,also made by Melsa, in Graus. Clearly a food fit for royalty.

T R U F F L E S A N D S U M M E R ,A P O S S I B L E C O M B I N A T I O N

Po

rtug

al

France

Canary Islands

Mora de Rubielos (Teruel)

Graus (Huesca)

Morella (Castellón)

Vic (Barcelona)Principal truffleproducing zone

Key truffle markets

B a l e a r i cI s

l a

nd

s

Albacete

Cuenca

GuadalajaraTeruel

Castellón

ZaragozaSoria

Navarre

Huesca Lleida

Barcelona

Girona

www.turismonavarra.es/esp/organice-viaje/recurso.aspx?o=3980Website for the Navarre Government with information on the Metauten TruffleInterpretation Center. (Basque, English, French, German, Spanish)

www.museodelatrufa.es/The official museum website with information on opening hours and prices, as well asinstructions for organizing a visit to the center. (Spanish)

www.setasytrufas.comWebsite for the National Federation of Truffle and Mushroom Exporters, withinformation on its activities, statistics on the truffle market, links to official organizationsand contact details for all its members. (Spanish)

www.arotz.comThe Arotz website, with information about the company and links to videos showingthe its plantation and the black truffle producing process. Also offers a display of thecompany’s products. (English, French, Spanish)

www.manjaresdelatierra.comThe Manjares de la Tierra website, with texts about the black truffle and the company’sproduct range, from fresh truffle to truffle juice. (English, French, Spanish)

www.laumont.esThe Laumont website, with information on its premises, products and contact details ofretailers. (Catalan, English, Spanish)

W E B S I T E S

06-TRUFAS.qxd 14/7/07 18:01 Página 80 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

TRUFAS AF.qxd 12/7/07 02:11 Página 80

80 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 81

according to Manuel de la Osa, theyshould not be cooked at atemperature greater than 70ºC(158ºF), or the truffle’s propertiesbegin to lessen.Another frequent way of usingtruffles is as the final garnish, gratingit or placing thin slices on the top ofthe dish, preferably at the table. Thisway the temperature of the cookeddish brings out the truffle aroma,achieving an instant, almost magicalresult.One of the most surprisingcomments comes from Juan PabloFelipe from the restaurant El Chaflánin Madrid. He believes the blacktruffle can even be used to givedifferent nuances to wine, andrecommends placing a few pieces ofTuber melanosporum in wine glassesto offer new sensations, a new wineexperience. “It’s only an experimentreally,” says the chef, “but it’s worthtrying.”

Jorge Luis Bartolomé hascollaborated with Canal Sur, OndaPunta TV and on the literary journalNvmenor. He is currently an internjournalist at Spain Gourmetour.

BLACK TRUFFLE

FOODBASICS

Normally, fresh black truffles can only be eaten when they are in season, fromNovember to March, but today a small processing and canning sector now allowsconsumption of truffle products all year round.Options for the summer months are truffles in their own juices or in brandy, or deep-frozen truffles. Several companies, such as Laumont and Arotz, have developed thistype of processed truffle.If the idea is to cook with truffles, one possibility is to use the cooking juices fromnatural truffles, which is sold, among other products, by Manjares de la Tierra. Or, ofcourse, extra virgin olive oils with truffle or vinegar with Tuber melanosporum aromaare available, ideal for all sorts of dressings.Another way of sampling black truffle is in foods with which it is made. Trysalchichón with truffle from a company called Riera Ordeix, in Vic (Barcelona), or henstuffed with truffles, sold by Melsa, a company in Graus (Huelva) that has beenperfecting this recipe for over a hundred years: hen stuffed with pork sirloin or curedham and marinated with black truffle and Armagnac.Another interesting option is eggs with truffle aroma, a simple but delicious idea.Eggs are left in contact with a fresh black truffle for a week so that the porous shellscan allow the unmistakable truffle flavor to penetrate the egg inside.Curiously enough, the British royal family is known to consume one of the mostexquisite truffle preparations on the market: goose liver with Spanish black truffle,also made by Melsa, in Graus. Clearly a food fit for royalty.

T R U F F L E S A N D S U M M E R ,A P O S S I B L E C O M B I N A T I O N

Po

rtug

al

France

Canary Islands

Mora de Rubielos (Teruel)

Graus (Huesca)

Morella (Castellón)

Vic (Barcelona)Principal truffleproducing zone

Key truffle markets

B a l e a r i cI s

l a

nd

s

Albacete

Cuenca

GuadalajaraTeruel

Castellón

ZaragozaSoria

Navarre

Huesca Lleida

Barcelona

Girona

www.turismonavarra.es/esp/organice-viaje/recurso.aspx?o=3980Website for the Navarre Government with information on the Metauten TruffleInterpretation Center. (Basque, English, French, German, Spanish)

www.museodelatrufa.es/The official museum website with information on opening hours and prices, as well asinstructions for organizing a visit to the center. (Spanish)

www.setasytrufas.comWebsite for the National Federation of Truffle and Mushroom Exporters, withinformation on its activities, statistics on the truffle market, links to official organizationsand contact details for all its members. (Spanish)

www.arotz.comThe Arotz website, with information about the company and links to videos showingthe its plantation and the black truffle producing process. Also offers a display of thecompany’s products. (English, French, Spanish)

www.manjaresdelatierra.comThe Manjares de la Tierra website, with texts about the black truffle and the company’sproduct range, from fresh truffle to truffle juice. (English, French, Spanish)

www.laumont.esThe Laumont website, with information on its premises, products and contact details ofretailers. (Catalan, English, Spanish)

W E B S I T E S

06-TRUFAS.qxd 14/7/07 18:01 Página 80 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

recetas AF.qxd 5/7/07 16:01 Página 82

5RECIPES

Originality and creativity are the main virtues of Paco Roncero, the chef at La Terraza del Casino (one Michelinstar), who has received unanimous recognition of his work. The International Academy of Gastronomy namedhim Chef L’Avenir 2005, and he received the Spanish National Gastronomy Award for 2006. Considered tobe one of Ferran Adrià’s star pupils, he has remarkable skill at blending different textures and temperaturesso that they explode in the eater’s mouth. An ambassador for the latest Spanish cuisine, his inventiveness entailsfuturistic techniques, using different combinations of jelling agents, thickeners, emulsifiers and gases. LaTerraza del Casino prides itself on having not only Paco Roncero in the kitchen but also María José Huertasas sommelier. Named Sommelier L’Avenir 2005, she is behind the wines recommended here.

La Terraza del Casino

La Terraza del CasinoAlcalá, 1528014 MadridTel.: (+34) 915 321 275 - 915 218 700

www.casinodemadrid.es/sp/gastronomia/rest_terraza/index.htm

terraza.casino@nh-hotels.com

RecipesPaco Roncero

IntroductionAlmudena Muyo

TranslationJenny McDonald

Photos, recipesToya Legido/ICEX

Photos, introductionTomás Zarza/ICEX

07-recetas.qxd 14/7/07 18:04 Página 82 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

recetas AF.qxd 5/7/07 16:01 Página 82

5RECIPES

Originality and creativity are the main virtues of Paco Roncero, the chef at La Terraza del Casino (one Michelinstar), who has received unanimous recognition of his work. The International Academy of Gastronomy namedhim Chef L’Avenir 2005, and he received the Spanish National Gastronomy Award for 2006. Considered tobe one of Ferran Adrià’s star pupils, he has remarkable skill at blending different textures and temperaturesso that they explode in the eater’s mouth. An ambassador for the latest Spanish cuisine, his inventiveness entailsfuturistic techniques, using different combinations of jelling agents, thickeners, emulsifiers and gases. LaTerraza del Casino prides itself on having not only Paco Roncero in the kitchen but also María José Huertasas sommelier. Named Sommelier L’Avenir 2005, she is behind the wines recommended here.

La Terraza del Casino

La Terraza del CasinoAlcalá, 1528014 MadridTel.: (+34) 915 321 275 - 915 218 700

www.casinodemadrid.es/sp/gastronomia/rest_terraza/index.htm

terraza.casino@nh-hotels.com

RecipesPaco Roncero

IntroductionAlmudena Muyo

TranslationJenny McDonald

Photos, recipesToya Legido/ICEX

Photos, introductionTomás Zarza/ICEX

07-recetas.qxd 14/7/07 18:04 Página 82 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

recetas AF.qxd 12/7/07 02:31 Página 84

84 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

BLACK TRUFFLE

5RECIPES

This is a very technical dish combininga milk film, like a traditional Japaneseyuba, with a foam filling, liquidnitrogen, extra virgin olive oil, truffle,etc. The coming together of traditionand technique make this one of myfavorite dishes, so much so that I oftenrecommend it when customers ask formy advice.

SERVES 4For the milk film: 1 l / 4 1/4 cups full-cream

milk; 35 ml / 1 fl oz cream.

For the curd cheese foam: 20 ml / 1

heaping tbsp cream; 200 g / 3/4 cups curd

cheese; 2 dl / 3/4 cups whey; 1 cartridge N20

(nitrous oxide); 1 iSi siphon cartridge; 1 sheet

gelatin.

For the oil semolina: 1 cartridge N20; 200 ml

/ 3/4 cups extra virgin olive oil, DO Baena; 4 g

/ 1/6 oz table salt; 800 ml / 3 1/2 cups liquid

nitrogen.

For the black truffle oil: 10 g / 1/3 oz black

truffle; 30 ml / 2 heaping tbsp sunflower oil;

2 g / 1/9 oz table salt.

Others: 10 g / 1/3 oz Maldon salt; 50 g / 2 oz

black truffle; basil leaves.

For the milk filmPour the whole liter of milk into a pot32 cm / 13 in in diameter. Heat to70ºC / 158ºF and wait for 15 minutesuntil a skin forms over the top.Remove this skin with your fingers andfold in half to form a half-circle twolayers thick. Keep the milk at about70ºC / 158ºF and wait another 15minutes for another skin to form.Repeat the process until you have one

2-layer half-circle per person. Laycarefully on plastic film spread withcream and cut into rectangles 13 x 18cm (5 x 7 in). Brush with plenty ofcream, cover with another layer ofplastic film and chill.

For the curd cheese foamBlend the curd cheese with the wheyfrom inside the bags. Pour 225 g / 8 ozof the resulting cream through a clothfilter and the rest through a finestrainer. Combine the two resultingliquids. Heat one third of this anddissolve the well-drained gelatin in it.Add the rest of the liquid and mix wellwith the cream. Transfer to a siphonand load the gas cartridge. Refrigeratefor 3 hours.

For the oil semolinaPlace the extra virgin olive oil and saltin the siphon and attach the N20cartridges. Spray into the liquidnitrogen and leave to act forapproximately 1 minute. Strainthrough a wire chinois and place in thefreezer at -20ºC /-4ºF for 10 minutes.The semolina can then be refreshed inliquid nitrogen to obtain the righttexture.

For the black truffle oilBlend the black truffle with thesunflower oil. Season with salt andrefrigerate.

To finishLift the film off the top of the yubas.Apply the curd cheese foam to themiddle of the yuba, forming arectangle measuring 12 cm (5 in) and2 cm high (1 in). Wrap the foam with

the yuba, making an oval shape like anomelet and ensuring that all the foamis wrapped up.

To servePlace the omelet-shaped parcel on arectangular dish with the foldsdownwards. Along the top, place a lineof oil semolina and top this with a fewbasil leaves. Finish with a few freshly-sliced truffle wafers and dress withblack truffle oil.

Preparation time1 hour

Cooking time30 minutes

Recommended wineGramona Argent 2003, by BodegasGramona. This subtle, creamy cavamade from Chardonnay grapes haswell-integrated bubbles, giving just theright freshness to accompany this dish.

Milk-film omelet andtruffle-flavored oil semolina(Tortilla de piel de leche y sémolade aceite de trufa negra)

07-recetas.qxd 14/7/07 18:05 Página 84 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

recetas AF.qxd 12/7/07 02:31 Página 84

84 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

BLACK TRUFFLE

5RECIPES

This is a very technical dish combininga milk film, like a traditional Japaneseyuba, with a foam filling, liquidnitrogen, extra virgin olive oil, truffle,etc. The coming together of traditionand technique make this one of myfavorite dishes, so much so that I oftenrecommend it when customers ask formy advice.

SERVES 4For the milk film: 1 l / 4 1/4 cups full-cream

milk; 35 ml / 1 fl oz cream.

For the curd cheese foam: 20 ml / 1

heaping tbsp cream; 200 g / 3/4 cups curd

cheese; 2 dl / 3/4 cups whey; 1 cartridge N20

(nitrous oxide); 1 iSi siphon cartridge; 1 sheet

gelatin.

For the oil semolina: 1 cartridge N20; 200 ml

/ 3/4 cups extra virgin olive oil, DO Baena; 4 g

/ 1/6 oz table salt; 800 ml / 3 1/2 cups liquid

nitrogen.

For the black truffle oil: 10 g / 1/3 oz black

truffle; 30 ml / 2 heaping tbsp sunflower oil;

2 g / 1/9 oz table salt.

Others: 10 g / 1/3 oz Maldon salt; 50 g / 2 oz

black truffle; basil leaves.

For the milk filmPour the whole liter of milk into a pot32 cm / 13 in in diameter. Heat to70ºC / 158ºF and wait for 15 minutesuntil a skin forms over the top.Remove this skin with your fingers andfold in half to form a half-circle twolayers thick. Keep the milk at about70ºC / 158ºF and wait another 15minutes for another skin to form.Repeat the process until you have one

2-layer half-circle per person. Laycarefully on plastic film spread withcream and cut into rectangles 13 x 18cm (5 x 7 in). Brush with plenty ofcream, cover with another layer ofplastic film and chill.

For the curd cheese foamBlend the curd cheese with the wheyfrom inside the bags. Pour 225 g / 8 ozof the resulting cream through a clothfilter and the rest through a finestrainer. Combine the two resultingliquids. Heat one third of this anddissolve the well-drained gelatin in it.Add the rest of the liquid and mix wellwith the cream. Transfer to a siphonand load the gas cartridge. Refrigeratefor 3 hours.

For the oil semolinaPlace the extra virgin olive oil and saltin the siphon and attach the N20cartridges. Spray into the liquidnitrogen and leave to act forapproximately 1 minute. Strainthrough a wire chinois and place in thefreezer at -20ºC /-4ºF for 10 minutes.The semolina can then be refreshed inliquid nitrogen to obtain the righttexture.

For the black truffle oilBlend the black truffle with thesunflower oil. Season with salt andrefrigerate.

To finishLift the film off the top of the yubas.Apply the curd cheese foam to themiddle of the yuba, forming arectangle measuring 12 cm (5 in) and2 cm high (1 in). Wrap the foam with

the yuba, making an oval shape like anomelet and ensuring that all the foamis wrapped up.

To servePlace the omelet-shaped parcel on arectangular dish with the foldsdownwards. Along the top, place a lineof oil semolina and top this with a fewbasil leaves. Finish with a few freshly-sliced truffle wafers and dress withblack truffle oil.

Preparation time1 hour

Cooking time30 minutes

Recommended wineGramona Argent 2003, by BodegasGramona. This subtle, creamy cavamade from Chardonnay grapes haswell-integrated bubbles, giving just theright freshness to accompany this dish.

Milk-film omelet andtruffle-flavored oil semolina(Tortilla de piel de leche y sémolade aceite de trufa negra)

07-recetas.qxd 14/7/07 18:05 Página 84 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

recetas AF.qxd 12/7/07 02:33 Página 86

86 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

BLACK TRUFFLE

5RECIPES

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 87

This dish could be said to berepresentative of true Spanish cuisine,with the black truffle blendingperfectly with the brains. There is nosingle main ingredient; all of them areequally important.

SERVES 4For the rabbit’s brains: 6 rabbit’s brains.

For the black truffle cannelloni: 50 g / 2 oz

black truffle; 10 g / 1/3 oz butter.

For the bone marrow: 200 g / 7 oz veal bone

marrow.

For the bacon en confit: 80 g / 3 oz Iberico

pork belly; 150 ml / 2/3 cup extra virgin olive

oil (0.4º acidity).

For the consommé: 500 g / 1 lb chicken; 15 g

/ 1/2 oz carrots; 15 g / 1/2 oz onions, 15 g /

1/2 oz leek; 50 ml / 4 tbsp sunflower oil; 2.5 l /

10 1/2 cups water; 500 g / 1 lb 2 oz fresh veal

knee bones; 2 chicken carcasses; 500 g / 1 lb

2 oz veal knuckle.

For the consommé jelly: : 50 ml / 4 tbsp

clarified meat consommé; 2 g / 1/9 oz agar-

agar; sea salt.

For the meat stock: 150 g / 5 1/2 oz carrots;

350 g / 12 oz onions; 20 g 1 oz leek; 60 g / 2

oz red tomato; 60 ml / 1/4 cup extra virgin

olive oil (0.4º acidity); 40 g / 1 1/2 oz sugar; 1 l

/ 4 1/2 cup young red wine; 2.5 l / 10 1/2

cup water; 1 kg / 2 1/4 lb fresh veal knee

bones; breast of veal.

For the sauce: 100 ml / 1/2 cup meat stock;

10 g / 1/3 oz butter; 1 ml / 1/4 tbsp sherry

vinegar, 25-year-old Reserva; sea salt.

Others: 5 ml / 1 tsp black truffle oil; sea salt;

extra virgin olive oil (0.4º acidity).

the pork from the oil and refrigerate.Remove any gristle or rancid parts andcut into 0.5 cm (1/4 in) cubes.

For the consomméBrown the veal bones in the oven at180ºC / 356ºF. Trim any fat off thechicken carcasses. Cut the vealknuckle into pieces. Trim any fat offthe chicken and cut into pieces. Peelthe onions, cut into rings and brownin a skillet. Peel the carrots and trimthe leek. Place all the ingredients in apot and cover with water. Simmer for8 hours, then strain.

For the consommé jellySeason the consommé with salt. Mix inthe powdered agar-agar. Over mediumheat, bring to a boil, stirring the wholetime. Remove from the heat and skim.Pour into a flat dish and place in therefrigerator to set.

For the meat stockAdd the sugar to the wine and reduceto half. Keep for deglazing the vealwhich will be cooked in the skillet.Brown the veal bones in the oven at180ºC / 356ºF. Cut the breast of vealinto 10 x 1.5 cm (4 x 3/4 in) pieces.Seal in a skillet with a little oil over ahigh flame until brown but still rawinside. Deglaze with the wine. Cut thevegetables into small pieces. Brown inthe oven with a little oil at 150ºC /302ºF. Once they are beginning tobrown uniformly, add the tomato cutinto quarters. Continue to cook untilthe tomato juice has evaporated andthe vegetables are browned. Place allthe ingredients together in a pot.Cover with cold water and bring to aboil over medium heat. Then simmer

for 6 hours, skimming frequently.Strain and leave to cool so that the fatsolidifies. Remove the fat.

For the meat sauceReduce the meat juices to form a fairlythick, flavorsome sauce. Bind withcornstarch if necessary. Set aside.Brown the butter in a pan. Whenhazelnut color, deglaze with the sherryvinegar. Add the meat juices andseason with salt. Keep warm.

To serveSeparately, heat the cubes of marrowand pork belly en confit until they loseany surplus fat and are warm. Drainand mix. Heat the consommé jelly andadd to the marrow and pork cubes.Season with salt. Remove the waxpaper from the truffle cannelloni andspread 20 g / 1 oz of the marrow and

pork filling over the truffle rectangle.Roll up and place along the left side ofa long dish. Season the rabbit’s brainsand griddle until browned and lightly-cooked. Place 3 halves of brain to theright of the roll lengthwise, leaving 2cm (3/4 in) between each. Finish thedish with a strip of black truffle oilalong the top of the cannelloni andadd some of the meat sauce.

Preparation time45 minutes

Cooking time30 minutes

Recommended wineEl Regajal 2005 (DO Madrid). This is aflavorful, fruity, powerful wine that isfresh enough to blend perfectly withthis dish.

For the rabbit’s brainsCleave the rabbit’s heads verticallywith a clean blow. Using a round-tipped knife, remove the brain (now in2 halves), being careful not to break it.Chill the brains. Set aside 3 half brainsper person.

For the black truffle cannelloniPeel the black truffle and slice with anelectric slicer to a maximum thicknessof 0.05 cm (0.02 in). Arrange thewafer-thin slices on lightly-butteredwax paper, forming a rectanglemeasuring 6 x 12.2 cm (2 1/2 x 5 in).There must be no gaps and the wafersshould overlap slightly so that thecannelloni can be rolled up withoutfalling apart. Lightly brush the trufflewith butter and cover with plastic film.Trim the film, leaving 1 cm (0.4 in)extra all around to facilitate handling.Set aside.

For the marrowLeave the bones at room temperature forat least 4 hours. Cleave the bones, tryingnot to break the marrow and use around-tipped knife to extract it. Soak inwater to remove any blood andrefrigerate for at least 12 hours. Place in apot of water and blanch slowly just untilthe water begins to boil. Remove fromthe heat and leave to cool in the cookingwater. When cold, drain. Remove anygristle or bone and cut into 0.5 cm (1/4in) cubes. Set aside.

For the pork belly en confitSoak the pork belly in cold water toremove any salt. Drain and trim offany rind. Cover with extra virgin oliveoil and make a confit in the oven for 11/2 hours at 100ºC / 212ºF. Remove

Black truffle cannelloniwith bone marrow and rabbit’sbrains(Canelón de trufa negra contuétano y sesos de conejo)

07-recetas.qxd 14/7/07 18:06 Página 86 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

recetas AF.qxd 12/7/07 02:33 Página 86

86 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

BLACK TRUFFLE

5RECIPES

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 87

This dish could be said to berepresentative of true Spanish cuisine,with the black truffle blendingperfectly with the brains. There is nosingle main ingredient; all of them areequally important.

SERVES 4For the rabbit’s brains: 6 rabbit’s brains.

For the black truffle cannelloni: 50 g / 2 oz

black truffle; 10 g / 1/3 oz butter.

For the bone marrow: 200 g / 7 oz veal bone

marrow.

For the bacon en confit: 80 g / 3 oz Iberico

pork belly; 150 ml / 2/3 cup extra virgin olive

oil (0.4º acidity).

For the consommé: 500 g / 1 lb chicken; 15 g

/ 1/2 oz carrots; 15 g / 1/2 oz onions, 15 g /

1/2 oz leek; 50 ml / 4 tbsp sunflower oil; 2.5 l /

10 1/2 cups water; 500 g / 1 lb 2 oz fresh veal

knee bones; 2 chicken carcasses; 500 g / 1 lb

2 oz veal knuckle.

For the consommé jelly: : 50 ml / 4 tbsp

clarified meat consommé; 2 g / 1/9 oz agar-

agar; sea salt.

For the meat stock: 150 g / 5 1/2 oz carrots;

350 g / 12 oz onions; 20 g 1 oz leek; 60 g / 2

oz red tomato; 60 ml / 1/4 cup extra virgin

olive oil (0.4º acidity); 40 g / 1 1/2 oz sugar; 1 l

/ 4 1/2 cup young red wine; 2.5 l / 10 1/2

cup water; 1 kg / 2 1/4 lb fresh veal knee

bones; breast of veal.

For the sauce: 100 ml / 1/2 cup meat stock;

10 g / 1/3 oz butter; 1 ml / 1/4 tbsp sherry

vinegar, 25-year-old Reserva; sea salt.

Others: 5 ml / 1 tsp black truffle oil; sea salt;

extra virgin olive oil (0.4º acidity).

the pork from the oil and refrigerate.Remove any gristle or rancid parts andcut into 0.5 cm (1/4 in) cubes.

For the consomméBrown the veal bones in the oven at180ºC / 356ºF. Trim any fat off thechicken carcasses. Cut the vealknuckle into pieces. Trim any fat offthe chicken and cut into pieces. Peelthe onions, cut into rings and brownin a skillet. Peel the carrots and trimthe leek. Place all the ingredients in apot and cover with water. Simmer for8 hours, then strain.

For the consommé jellySeason the consommé with salt. Mix inthe powdered agar-agar. Over mediumheat, bring to a boil, stirring the wholetime. Remove from the heat and skim.Pour into a flat dish and place in therefrigerator to set.

For the meat stockAdd the sugar to the wine and reduceto half. Keep for deglazing the vealwhich will be cooked in the skillet.Brown the veal bones in the oven at180ºC / 356ºF. Cut the breast of vealinto 10 x 1.5 cm (4 x 3/4 in) pieces.Seal in a skillet with a little oil over ahigh flame until brown but still rawinside. Deglaze with the wine. Cut thevegetables into small pieces. Brown inthe oven with a little oil at 150ºC /302ºF. Once they are beginning tobrown uniformly, add the tomato cutinto quarters. Continue to cook untilthe tomato juice has evaporated andthe vegetables are browned. Place allthe ingredients together in a pot.Cover with cold water and bring to aboil over medium heat. Then simmer

for 6 hours, skimming frequently.Strain and leave to cool so that the fatsolidifies. Remove the fat.

For the meat sauceReduce the meat juices to form a fairlythick, flavorsome sauce. Bind withcornstarch if necessary. Set aside.Brown the butter in a pan. Whenhazelnut color, deglaze with the sherryvinegar. Add the meat juices andseason with salt. Keep warm.

To serveSeparately, heat the cubes of marrowand pork belly en confit until they loseany surplus fat and are warm. Drainand mix. Heat the consommé jelly andadd to the marrow and pork cubes.Season with salt. Remove the waxpaper from the truffle cannelloni andspread 20 g / 1 oz of the marrow and

pork filling over the truffle rectangle.Roll up and place along the left side ofa long dish. Season the rabbit’s brainsand griddle until browned and lightly-cooked. Place 3 halves of brain to theright of the roll lengthwise, leaving 2cm (3/4 in) between each. Finish thedish with a strip of black truffle oilalong the top of the cannelloni andadd some of the meat sauce.

Preparation time45 minutes

Cooking time30 minutes

Recommended wineEl Regajal 2005 (DO Madrid). This is aflavorful, fruity, powerful wine that isfresh enough to blend perfectly withthis dish.

For the rabbit’s brainsCleave the rabbit’s heads verticallywith a clean blow. Using a round-tipped knife, remove the brain (now in2 halves), being careful not to break it.Chill the brains. Set aside 3 half brainsper person.

For the black truffle cannelloniPeel the black truffle and slice with anelectric slicer to a maximum thicknessof 0.05 cm (0.02 in). Arrange thewafer-thin slices on lightly-butteredwax paper, forming a rectanglemeasuring 6 x 12.2 cm (2 1/2 x 5 in).There must be no gaps and the wafersshould overlap slightly so that thecannelloni can be rolled up withoutfalling apart. Lightly brush the trufflewith butter and cover with plastic film.Trim the film, leaving 1 cm (0.4 in)extra all around to facilitate handling.Set aside.

For the marrowLeave the bones at room temperature forat least 4 hours. Cleave the bones, tryingnot to break the marrow and use around-tipped knife to extract it. Soak inwater to remove any blood andrefrigerate for at least 12 hours. Place in apot of water and blanch slowly just untilthe water begins to boil. Remove fromthe heat and leave to cool in the cookingwater. When cold, drain. Remove anygristle or bone and cut into 0.5 cm (1/4in) cubes. Set aside.

For the pork belly en confitSoak the pork belly in cold water toremove any salt. Drain and trim offany rind. Cover with extra virgin oliveoil and make a confit in the oven for 11/2 hours at 100ºC / 212ºF. Remove

Black truffle cannelloniwith bone marrow and rabbit’sbrains(Canelón de trufa negra contuétano y sesos de conejo)

07-recetas.qxd 14/7/07 18:06 Página 86 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

recetas AF.qxd 12/7/07 02:34 Página 88

When I discovered filo dough, whichis similar to puff pastry, I wasreminded of a dish from days goneby–truffle en croûte. In my version, Iadd a touch of freshness with apple.This is a very light dish, one that weinclude in our tasting menu.

SERVES 4For the filo dough millefeuille: 2 sheets filo

dough, black truffle oil.

For the apple juice: 500 g / 1 lb 2 oz Granny

Smith apple.

For the apply jelly: 2 g / 1/9 oz agar-agar;

250 ml / 1 1/8 cup fresh apple juice.

For the apple cubes: 200 g / 7 oz Granny

Smith apple.

For the slices of black truffle: : 25 g / 1 oz

black truffle; 50 ml / 4 tbsp black truffle oil;

Maldon salt.

For the apple juicePrepare a pot of boiling water. Corethe apples and cut each into 8segments. Dip into boiling water for 5seconds, drain and refresh in icedwater. Liquidize the apple and placethe liquid in a tall, narrow container.Chill in the freezer until the solidshave risen. Remove with a slottedspoon. Pour the juice through a clothfilter.

For the apple jellyMix the apple juice and the agar-agar.Bring to a boil over a medium heat andskim. Leave to set in a flat dish 0.5 cm(1/4 in) deep for at least 3 hours. Cutinto 10 x 5 cm (4 x 2 in) rectangles.

For the filo dough millefeuilleBrush off any loose flour from the filodough sheets. Then brush one sheetwith black truffle oil and top withanother. Repeat with a third sheet. Cutinto 10 x 5 cm (4 x 2 in) rectanglesand arrange on two silpats. Placeanother silpat over the top to preventthe dough from rising. Bake at 210ºC /410ºF until golden (3 or 4 minutes).

For the apple cubesCut the peeled apple into 0.5 cm (0.2in) cubes. Place between sheets ofmoistened paper to prevent oxidation.

For the black truffle wafersWash the black truffles under a thinstream of water, scrubbing with abrush. Scrape with a sharp knife toremove the rough parts. Cut with amandolin into 0.1 cm (0.04 in) slices.Dress with the black truffle oil andseason with salt.

To servePlace the filo dough in the center of adish. Top with jelly cubes. Arrange 15

apple cubes on top of the jelly, in 3rows of 5 cubes. Place a truffle waferon top, covering the jelly and apple.Heat under a salamander for 6 or 7seconds to lightly cook the truffle.Finish by sprinkling the truffle with alittle Maldon salt and black truffle oil.

Preparation time20 minutes

Cooking time5 minutes

Recommended wineJosé Pariente 2006 (DO Rueda), fromDos Victorias. As aromatic as the dishand as fresh as the apple.

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 89

BLACK TRUFFLE

5RECIPES

BLACK TRUFFLE

5RECIPES

Black truffle and apple pie(Tarta de trufa nega y manzana)

07-recetas.qxd 14/7/07 18:07 Página 88 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

recetas AF.qxd 12/7/07 02:34 Página 88

When I discovered filo dough, whichis similar to puff pastry, I wasreminded of a dish from days goneby–truffle en croûte. In my version, Iadd a touch of freshness with apple.This is a very light dish, one that weinclude in our tasting menu.

SERVES 4For the filo dough millefeuille: 2 sheets filo

dough, black truffle oil.

For the apple juice: 500 g / 1 lb 2 oz Granny

Smith apple.

For the apply jelly: 2 g / 1/9 oz agar-agar;

250 ml / 1 1/8 cup fresh apple juice.

For the apple cubes: 200 g / 7 oz Granny

Smith apple.

For the slices of black truffle: : 25 g / 1 oz

black truffle; 50 ml / 4 tbsp black truffle oil;

Maldon salt.

For the apple juicePrepare a pot of boiling water. Corethe apples and cut each into 8segments. Dip into boiling water for 5seconds, drain and refresh in icedwater. Liquidize the apple and placethe liquid in a tall, narrow container.Chill in the freezer until the solidshave risen. Remove with a slottedspoon. Pour the juice through a clothfilter.

For the apple jellyMix the apple juice and the agar-agar.Bring to a boil over a medium heat andskim. Leave to set in a flat dish 0.5 cm(1/4 in) deep for at least 3 hours. Cutinto 10 x 5 cm (4 x 2 in) rectangles.

For the filo dough millefeuilleBrush off any loose flour from the filodough sheets. Then brush one sheetwith black truffle oil and top withanother. Repeat with a third sheet. Cutinto 10 x 5 cm (4 x 2 in) rectanglesand arrange on two silpats. Placeanother silpat over the top to preventthe dough from rising. Bake at 210ºC /410ºF until golden (3 or 4 minutes).

For the apple cubesCut the peeled apple into 0.5 cm (0.2in) cubes. Place between sheets ofmoistened paper to prevent oxidation.

For the black truffle wafersWash the black truffles under a thinstream of water, scrubbing with abrush. Scrape with a sharp knife toremove the rough parts. Cut with amandolin into 0.1 cm (0.04 in) slices.Dress with the black truffle oil andseason with salt.

To servePlace the filo dough in the center of adish. Top with jelly cubes. Arrange 15

apple cubes on top of the jelly, in 3rows of 5 cubes. Place a truffle waferon top, covering the jelly and apple.Heat under a salamander for 6 or 7seconds to lightly cook the truffle.Finish by sprinkling the truffle with alittle Maldon salt and black truffle oil.

Preparation time20 minutes

Cooking time5 minutes

Recommended wineJosé Pariente 2006 (DO Rueda), fromDos Victorias. As aromatic as the dishand as fresh as the apple.

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 89

BLACK TRUFFLE

5RECIPES

BLACK TRUFFLE

5RECIPES

Black truffle and apple pie(Tarta de trufa nega y manzana)

07-recetas.qxd 14/7/07 18:07 Página 88 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

recetas AF.qxd 12/7/07 02:34 Página 90

90 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

the vegetables in the order to becooked and deglaze with the wineand sherry brandy. Add to the pot.Cook the bones, vegetables and herbswith the sugar, wine and sherrybrandy. When reduced to half, addthe water and simmer for 12 hours toobtain 1 l / 4 1/4 cup of lamb stock.Transfer to plastic containers andrefrigerate. When a layer of fat hasformed on the top, remove. Reduceand bind with butter until the rightconsistency.

For the pork belly and blacktruffle ravioliPlace a piece of pork belly in thefreezer. Slice into thin wafers usingan electric slicer and spread over asheet of non-stick paper. Clean thetruffle and cut into 3 mm (0.12 in)slices. Place one slice of truffle ontop of each slice of pork andseason with a little salt. Fold eachslice of pork in half, formingperfect rectangles 5 x 4 cm (2 x 11/2 in).

For the baby onionsBlanch the onions and leave to cool.Peel and cut in half vertically. Use asharp, pointed knife to remove thecentral part, then separate the mostcomplete layers and set aside.

For the bread envelopesFreeze part of a loaf of bread 10 cm(4 in) long. Use the electric slicer tocut into thin wafers. Fold the slices intwo, without flattening, and bake inthe oven until just lightly browned.

To serveSear the lamb in a skillet withsunflower oil. Place three toasted breadchips separately and randomly on the

plate. Place one pork and black truffleravioli on each bread envelope. Searthe onion pieces on the griddle, emptyside down, then turn over, arrange onthe dish and fill with egg yolk. Add theglazed lamb and pour a little sauce ontop.

Preparation time14 hours for the lamb shoulder and 30minutes

Cooking time12 hours for the lamb

Recommended wineFinca Dofi 2003 (DO Priorato), byÁlvaro Palacios. This is a well-structured, fleshy wine that providesthe perfect partner for the lamb.

BLACK TRUFFLE

5RECIPES

And now for a real winner: lamb withcharcoal smoke flavored black truffle, amust for my winter cuisine repertoire.

SERVES 4For the lamb shoulder: 2 kg / 4 1/2 lbs sea

salt; 1 kg / 2 1/4 lbs sugar; 1,600 g / 3 lbs

11 oz lamb shoulder.

For the aromas: 5 g / 1/6 oz fresh garlic; 2 g

/ 1/9 oz fresh thyme; 2 g / 1/9 oz fresh

rosemary; 1 g / 1/9 oz bay leaves; 20 g / 1 oz

butter.

For the lamb stock: 1 g / 1/9 oz parsley; 32

g / 1 oz fresh garlic; 48 g / 2 oz onions,

peeled; 1 g / 1/9 oz black peppercorns; 1 g /

1/9 oz bay leaves; 20 g / 1 oz sugar; 2 l / 8

1/2 cups water; 40 ml / 3 tbsp sherry; 480 ml

/ 2 1/6 cups white wine; 40 ml / 3 tbsp sherry

brandy; 320 g / 10 1/2 oz lamb bones; 2 g /

1/9 oz fresh thyme; 2 g / 1/9 oz fresh

rosemary.

For the ravioli: 100 g / 3 1/2 oz Iberico pork

belly; 40 g / 1 1/2 oz black truffle; salt.

For the baby onions: 8 small French onions.

For the bread: 1 kg / 2 1/4 lb bread.

Others: 2 fresh chicken’s eggs; sunflower oil,

toasted bread chips.

For the lamb shoulderCover the lamb for 2 hours with themixture of salt and sugar. Remove andwash. Place in a 100% vacuum packwith a knob of butter and the herbs.Cook in the Roner at 70ºC / 158ºF for12 hours. Place in ice water to stop thecooking process. When cold,refrigerate.

For the lamb stockBrown the bones in the oven at180ºC / 356ºF. Deglaze with whitewine and place in a pot. Lightly fry

Lamb shoulder, with Iberico pork andblack truffle ravioli, bread and baby onions(Espaldita de cordero, con raviolis de ibérico ytrufa negra, pan y cebollitas)

07-recetas.qxd 14/7/07 18:09 Página 90 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

recetas AF.qxd 12/7/07 02:34 Página 90

90 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

the vegetables in the order to becooked and deglaze with the wineand sherry brandy. Add to the pot.Cook the bones, vegetables and herbswith the sugar, wine and sherrybrandy. When reduced to half, addthe water and simmer for 12 hours toobtain 1 l / 4 1/4 cup of lamb stock.Transfer to plastic containers andrefrigerate. When a layer of fat hasformed on the top, remove. Reduceand bind with butter until the rightconsistency.

For the pork belly and blacktruffle ravioliPlace a piece of pork belly in thefreezer. Slice into thin wafers usingan electric slicer and spread over asheet of non-stick paper. Clean thetruffle and cut into 3 mm (0.12 in)slices. Place one slice of truffle ontop of each slice of pork andseason with a little salt. Fold eachslice of pork in half, formingperfect rectangles 5 x 4 cm (2 x 11/2 in).

For the baby onionsBlanch the onions and leave to cool.Peel and cut in half vertically. Use asharp, pointed knife to remove thecentral part, then separate the mostcomplete layers and set aside.

For the bread envelopesFreeze part of a loaf of bread 10 cm(4 in) long. Use the electric slicer tocut into thin wafers. Fold the slices intwo, without flattening, and bake inthe oven until just lightly browned.

To serveSear the lamb in a skillet withsunflower oil. Place three toasted breadchips separately and randomly on the

plate. Place one pork and black truffleravioli on each bread envelope. Searthe onion pieces on the griddle, emptyside down, then turn over, arrange onthe dish and fill with egg yolk. Add theglazed lamb and pour a little sauce ontop.

Preparation time14 hours for the lamb shoulder and 30minutes

Cooking time12 hours for the lamb

Recommended wineFinca Dofi 2003 (DO Priorato), byÁlvaro Palacios. This is a well-structured, fleshy wine that providesthe perfect partner for the lamb.

BLACK TRUFFLE

5RECIPES

And now for a real winner: lamb withcharcoal smoke flavored black truffle, amust for my winter cuisine repertoire.

SERVES 4For the lamb shoulder: 2 kg / 4 1/2 lbs sea

salt; 1 kg / 2 1/4 lbs sugar; 1,600 g / 3 lbs

11 oz lamb shoulder.

For the aromas: 5 g / 1/6 oz fresh garlic; 2 g

/ 1/9 oz fresh thyme; 2 g / 1/9 oz fresh

rosemary; 1 g / 1/9 oz bay leaves; 20 g / 1 oz

butter.

For the lamb stock: 1 g / 1/9 oz parsley; 32

g / 1 oz fresh garlic; 48 g / 2 oz onions,

peeled; 1 g / 1/9 oz black peppercorns; 1 g /

1/9 oz bay leaves; 20 g / 1 oz sugar; 2 l / 8

1/2 cups water; 40 ml / 3 tbsp sherry; 480 ml

/ 2 1/6 cups white wine; 40 ml / 3 tbsp sherry

brandy; 320 g / 10 1/2 oz lamb bones; 2 g /

1/9 oz fresh thyme; 2 g / 1/9 oz fresh

rosemary.

For the ravioli: 100 g / 3 1/2 oz Iberico pork

belly; 40 g / 1 1/2 oz black truffle; salt.

For the baby onions: 8 small French onions.

For the bread: 1 kg / 2 1/4 lb bread.

Others: 2 fresh chicken’s eggs; sunflower oil,

toasted bread chips.

For the lamb shoulderCover the lamb for 2 hours with themixture of salt and sugar. Remove andwash. Place in a 100% vacuum packwith a knob of butter and the herbs.Cook in the Roner at 70ºC / 158ºF for12 hours. Place in ice water to stop thecooking process. When cold,refrigerate.

For the lamb stockBrown the bones in the oven at180ºC / 356ºF. Deglaze with whitewine and place in a pot. Lightly fry

Lamb shoulder, with Iberico pork andblack truffle ravioli, bread and baby onions(Espaldita de cordero, con raviolis de ibérico ytrufa negra, pan y cebollitas)

07-recetas.qxd 14/7/07 18:09 Página 90 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

recetas AF.qxd 12/7/07 02:35 Página 92

For the black truffleRemove any dirt from the truffle usinga brush and a little water. Dry wellwith paper towels and peel, removingany black parts. Using the electricslicer, slice the truffle into wafers 0.1cm (0.04 in) thick, preparing about 8wafers per person.

To serveSeason the truffle wafers with tablesalt. Lightly brush the top of theairbaguette with black truffle oil andpile the truffle wafers on top,

overlapping each other and creatingheight. Dress the truffle with a littleblack truffle oil and heat very lightlyunder the salamander. Serve on a rackwith sandwich paper.

Preparation time1 day for the dough to stand

Cooking timeFrom 5 to 10 minutes

Recommended wineGramona Celler Batlle 1997, byGramona, a cava that offers thestructure and complexity needed tocomplement the airbaguette.

BLACK TRUFFLE

5RECIPES

For the bread doughMix the yeast, milk, flour and salt.Knead mechanically for 5 minutes atmedium speed. Then knead by handfor 1 minute. Transfer to a bowl, coverwell and place in the refrigerator.Leave for 5 hours.

For the airbaguetteRoll out the dough using the roller toachieve maximum thickness. Coverwith a damp cloth and leave to standfor about 1 minute. Then roll out againto 0.5 cm (1/4 in) thickness. Repeat

the operation twice. Fold in half androll out again to a thickness of 0.5 cm(1/4 in). Repeat the procedure twice.Cut into 10 x 1 cm (4 x 0.4 in) ovalshapes. Place in a pasta roller and rollout to a thickness of 0.3 cm (1/8 in).Repeat the procedure twice. Bake inthe oven at 240ºC / 464ºF for 3minutes. Turn over and bake foranother 2 minutes until well-risen andbrown. Remove from the oven and,with a sharp, pointed knife, split inhalf, being careful not to break it. Setaside.

One of our amuse-bouche, topped

with truffle–a real treat! We enjoy

surprising our customers with recipes

like this.

SERVES 4100 g / 3 1/2 oz black truffle; 10 ml / 2 tbsp

black truffle oil; 10 g / 1/3 oz table salt.

For the bread dough: 10 g / 1/3 oz pressed

yeast; 190 ml / 3/4 cups whole milk; 320 g /

10 1/2 oz unprocessed wheat flour; 4 g / 1/6

oz table salt.

Black truffle airbaguette(Airbaguette de trufa negra)

07-recetas.qxd 14/7/07 18:12 Página 92 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

recetas AF.qxd 12/7/07 02:35 Página 92

For the black truffleRemove any dirt from the truffle usinga brush and a little water. Dry wellwith paper towels and peel, removingany black parts. Using the electricslicer, slice the truffle into wafers 0.1cm (0.04 in) thick, preparing about 8wafers per person.

To serveSeason the truffle wafers with tablesalt. Lightly brush the top of theairbaguette with black truffle oil andpile the truffle wafers on top,

overlapping each other and creatingheight. Dress the truffle with a littleblack truffle oil and heat very lightlyunder the salamander. Serve on a rackwith sandwich paper.

Preparation time1 day for the dough to stand

Cooking timeFrom 5 to 10 minutes

Recommended wineGramona Celler Batlle 1997, byGramona, a cava that offers thestructure and complexity needed tocomplement the airbaguette.

BLACK TRUFFLE

5RECIPES

For the bread doughMix the yeast, milk, flour and salt.Knead mechanically for 5 minutes atmedium speed. Then knead by handfor 1 minute. Transfer to a bowl, coverwell and place in the refrigerator.Leave for 5 hours.

For the airbaguetteRoll out the dough using the roller toachieve maximum thickness. Coverwith a damp cloth and leave to standfor about 1 minute. Then roll out againto 0.5 cm (1/4 in) thickness. Repeat

the operation twice. Fold in half androll out again to a thickness of 0.5 cm(1/4 in). Repeat the procedure twice.Cut into 10 x 1 cm (4 x 0.4 in) ovalshapes. Place in a pasta roller and rollout to a thickness of 0.3 cm (1/8 in).Repeat the procedure twice. Bake inthe oven at 240ºC / 464ºF for 3minutes. Turn over and bake foranother 2 minutes until well-risen andbrown. Remove from the oven and,with a sharp, pointed knife, split inhalf, being careful not to break it. Setaside.

One of our amuse-bouche, topped

with truffle–a real treat! We enjoy

surprising our customers with recipes

like this.

SERVES 4100 g / 3 1/2 oz black truffle; 10 ml / 2 tbsp

black truffle oil; 10 g / 1/3 oz table salt.

For the bread dough: 10 g / 1/3 oz pressed

yeast; 190 ml / 3/4 cups whole milk; 320 g /

10 1/2 oz unprocessed wheat flour; 4 g / 1/6

oz table salt.

Black truffle airbaguette(Airbaguette de trufa negra)

07-recetas.qxd 14/7/07 18:12 Página 92 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

de arenques salvajes delMar del Norte sometidaa una técnica pionera

Gulfood 2007 Dubai, la

con una clara vocaciónexportadora: queremos

finalizar 2007 con una

Arënkha, Anchoviar yLobsviar, elaborados con

arenque los dos primeros, y con

EnMarcha_SGT71 AF.qxd 5/7/07 17:19 Página 94

94 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 95

ON THE MOVE

BUSINESSWATCH

ON THE MOVE

BUSINESSWATCH

Pescaviar takes off in thePersian GulfBoosting the status of a product thatmight be taken, at first sight, for a merecaviar substitute up into the gourmetbracket is quite a coup, and Pescaviarhas done just that. In barely a decade,this company has progressed from beinga twinkle in the eye of its founder, LuisIrisarri, to a presence on the shelves ofHarrods’ Food Hall in London. Its mostrecent international operation involvesEmirates, the Gulf’s major airline, whosefirst and business class passengers willsoon be sampling its star product,Avruga. Avruga is made by processingthe flesh of wild North Seaherring using a state-of-the-artspherificationtechnique, resultingin a productPescaviar describesas “herring pearls”.The Emirates dealcame about as aresult of contactsmade at Gulfood 2007

Dubai, the Middle East’s premier foodfair. Given its earlier arrangement withJapan Airlines, which is also to serveAvruga on intercontinental flights,Pescaviar could be said to be reachingnew heights with this product.The company has achieved remarkableinternational expansion in recent years.By 2006, it had 16 customers in six newcountries, including Argentina, Chile,South Korea and Taiwan, and with theselatest additions its distribution networknow covers a total of over 30 countries.Export director Ana Irisarri is categoricalin her account of the company’sapproach: “Our company wasestablished with its sights set on

exporting. By the end of 2007we want exports to account

for 50% of our business.”Pescaviar’s range includesfour other products inaddition to Avruga:Moluga, Arënkha,Anchoviar and Lobsviar,the first two of which are

made from herring and theother two from anchovy and

lobster, respectively. They are

distributed primarily through gourmetimport channels. “The product itself canonly do so much. It won’t advancefurther unless importers provide a goodservice,” declares Irisarri.

Date of foundation: 1997Activity: Producing and sellingprocessed seafood productsWorkforce: 30 employeesTurnover for 2006: 3.5 million eurosExport quota: 40%www.pescaviar.com

Atlantica: from South Africato CanadaJosé González del Valle and JavierFernandez are the forces behind the agri-food product exporting consortiumAtlantica. Over the last few years, theseyoung entrepreneurs have achievedseveral commercial bull’s-eyes in placesas far-flung as Canada and South Africa,triggered by their participation indifferent food fairs.Late in 2006, Atlantica embarked on amini-tour around Quality Foodsestablishments in Oceanside and

On the Move

Vancouver Island (Canada) with a viewto promoting their artisancheeses–Manchego, goat’s cheese withwine, Mahón and La Peral–which theysell under the Piel de Toro label. Theirpresentations, which paved the way forexcellent sales, resulted from a meetingwith the sales directors at Tree of Life,Canada’s leading distributor of ecologicaland gourmet products, in June 2005.The cheeses will soon be complementedby refrigerated quince jelly which thecompany plans to introduce via thechilled foods channel.They succeeded in penetrating the SouthAfrican market in 2005 after establishingcontact with the importing companyRialto Foods at Barcelona’s Alimentaria in2004. Atlantica currently supplies theWoolworth’s chain with canned andbottled vegetables and various types ofcheese and chorizo, and is also becominginvolved in the restaurant supply field.Its plans for expansion includeintroducing new cheeses, “capitalizing onour excellent relationship with theimporter,” explains González.Atlantica is also involved with IbericaLondon (www.ibericalondon.co.uk),

whose premises are designedto combine the selling ofgastronomic products with arestaurant business and adash of Spanish culture. Sincelast summer, the Oviedo-based exporting consortiumhas been supplying this littleSpanish outpost in the UK.Atlantica distributes its rangeof products–primarilycheeses, charcuterie, pickleditems, canned and bottledvegetables and fish–under the Piel deToro, Cum Laude, Esperanza, Isabellaand Don Juan labels.

Date of foundation: 1998Activity: Exporting food productsWorkforce: 9 employeesTurnover for 2006: 4 million euroswww.atlantica-co.com

Guía Peñín: today the US,tomorrow the worldThe most international guide to Spanishwines is planning to spread even fartherafield. The English version of the 2007Guía Peñin was given a gala launch in

New York as part of an event entitled Losnuevos valores del vino español (Spanishwine’s new values). Organized by thePeñín Group, this provided anopportunity to present the latest winesboth from established bodegas and up-and-coming winegrowing areas. “Ourmain purpose was to spread the wordabout wines that came onto the marketbetween 2005 and 2006 about which theUS had not yet become aware,” explainsJosé Peñín. The event was held at theNew York Union Square Hotel and wasattended by 40 journalists and manysommeliers and importers. “The eventdefinitely made waves, and we are very

TEXTDAVID CÁNOVAS WILLIAMS

ILLUSTRATIONJAVIER VÁZQUEZ

TRANSLATIONHAWYS PRITCHARD

08-EnMarcha.qxd 14/7/07 20:01 Página 94 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

de arenques salvajes delMar del Norte sometidaa una técnica pionera

Gulfood 2007 Dubai, la

con una clara vocaciónexportadora: queremos

finalizar 2007 con una

Arënkha, Anchoviar yLobsviar, elaborados con

arenque los dos primeros, y con

EnMarcha_SGT71 AF.qxd 5/7/07 17:19 Página 94

94 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 95

ON THE MOVE

BUSINESSWATCH

ON THE MOVE

BUSINESSWATCH

Pescaviar takes off in thePersian GulfBoosting the status of a product thatmight be taken, at first sight, for a merecaviar substitute up into the gourmetbracket is quite a coup, and Pescaviarhas done just that. In barely a decade,this company has progressed from beinga twinkle in the eye of its founder, LuisIrisarri, to a presence on the shelves ofHarrods’ Food Hall in London. Its mostrecent international operation involvesEmirates, the Gulf’s major airline, whosefirst and business class passengers willsoon be sampling its star product,Avruga. Avruga is made by processingthe flesh of wild North Seaherring using a state-of-the-artspherificationtechnique, resultingin a productPescaviar describesas “herring pearls”.The Emirates dealcame about as aresult of contactsmade at Gulfood 2007

Dubai, the Middle East’s premier foodfair. Given its earlier arrangement withJapan Airlines, which is also to serveAvruga on intercontinental flights,Pescaviar could be said to be reachingnew heights with this product.The company has achieved remarkableinternational expansion in recent years.By 2006, it had 16 customers in six newcountries, including Argentina, Chile,South Korea and Taiwan, and with theselatest additions its distribution networknow covers a total of over 30 countries.Export director Ana Irisarri is categoricalin her account of the company’sapproach: “Our company wasestablished with its sights set on

exporting. By the end of 2007we want exports to account

for 50% of our business.”Pescaviar’s range includesfour other products inaddition to Avruga:Moluga, Arënkha,Anchoviar and Lobsviar,the first two of which are

made from herring and theother two from anchovy and

lobster, respectively. They are

distributed primarily through gourmetimport channels. “The product itself canonly do so much. It won’t advancefurther unless importers provide a goodservice,” declares Irisarri.

Date of foundation: 1997Activity: Producing and sellingprocessed seafood productsWorkforce: 30 employeesTurnover for 2006: 3.5 million eurosExport quota: 40%www.pescaviar.com

Atlantica: from South Africato CanadaJosé González del Valle and JavierFernandez are the forces behind the agri-food product exporting consortiumAtlantica. Over the last few years, theseyoung entrepreneurs have achievedseveral commercial bull’s-eyes in placesas far-flung as Canada and South Africa,triggered by their participation indifferent food fairs.Late in 2006, Atlantica embarked on amini-tour around Quality Foodsestablishments in Oceanside and

On the Move

Vancouver Island (Canada) with a viewto promoting their artisancheeses–Manchego, goat’s cheese withwine, Mahón and La Peral–which theysell under the Piel de Toro label. Theirpresentations, which paved the way forexcellent sales, resulted from a meetingwith the sales directors at Tree of Life,Canada’s leading distributor of ecologicaland gourmet products, in June 2005.The cheeses will soon be complementedby refrigerated quince jelly which thecompany plans to introduce via thechilled foods channel.They succeeded in penetrating the SouthAfrican market in 2005 after establishingcontact with the importing companyRialto Foods at Barcelona’s Alimentaria in2004. Atlantica currently supplies theWoolworth’s chain with canned andbottled vegetables and various types ofcheese and chorizo, and is also becominginvolved in the restaurant supply field.Its plans for expansion includeintroducing new cheeses, “capitalizing onour excellent relationship with theimporter,” explains González.Atlantica is also involved with IbericaLondon (www.ibericalondon.co.uk),

whose premises are designedto combine the selling ofgastronomic products with arestaurant business and adash of Spanish culture. Sincelast summer, the Oviedo-based exporting consortiumhas been supplying this littleSpanish outpost in the UK.Atlantica distributes its rangeof products–primarilycheeses, charcuterie, pickleditems, canned and bottledvegetables and fish–under the Piel deToro, Cum Laude, Esperanza, Isabellaand Don Juan labels.

Date of foundation: 1998Activity: Exporting food productsWorkforce: 9 employeesTurnover for 2006: 4 million euroswww.atlantica-co.com

Guía Peñín: today the US,tomorrow the worldThe most international guide to Spanishwines is planning to spread even fartherafield. The English version of the 2007Guía Peñin was given a gala launch in

New York as part of an event entitled Losnuevos valores del vino español (Spanishwine’s new values). Organized by thePeñín Group, this provided anopportunity to present the latest winesboth from established bodegas and up-and-coming winegrowing areas. “Ourmain purpose was to spread the wordabout wines that came onto the marketbetween 2005 and 2006 about which theUS had not yet become aware,” explainsJosé Peñín. The event was held at theNew York Union Square Hotel and wasattended by 40 journalists and manysommeliers and importers. “The eventdefinitely made waves, and we are very

TEXTDAVID CÁNOVAS WILLIAMS

ILLUSTRATIONJAVIER VÁZQUEZ

TRANSLATIONHAWYS PRITCHARD

08-EnMarcha.qxd 14/7/07 20:01 Página 94 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

oportunidad al resto”, concluye. En laactualidad, su línea de cavas comprende

EnMarcha_SGT71 AF.qxd 5/7/07 17:24 Página 96

96 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 97

company’s two big markets in theAmericas, and it has subsidiaries inBrazil, Chile, Morocco, Tunisia andAustralia. “Our latest plans are focusedon extending our presence in Asia,”explains Jordi Mateu, Agromillora’stechnical director. Projected turnoverfigures for 2007 are approximately 33million dollars.

Date of foundation: 1986Activity: Fruit and vegetable nurseryWorkforce: 500 employeesTurnover for 2006: 18.44 million eurosExport quota: 40%www.agromillora.com

El Xamfrà takes top-of-the-range vinegars internationalIn the last few years, El Xamfrà, a winerythat specializes in producing wines andliqueurs, has diversified its output with anew, and very well-received, range ofvarietal vinegars. This Catalan company,which is currently in the process ofexpanding internationally, has reachedagreements with importers in the UKand Germany for them to distribute itsMoscatel, Cabernet Sauvignon andChardonnay vinegars. “Moscatel vinegaris the most sought-after, perhaps becauseit is slightly sweet without being heavy,as balsamic vinegars tend to be. They areall made from quality wines,” explainsCristina Fernández, head of El Xamfrà’sexport and sales department. She goeson to say, “Orders from the UK arerepeated every three to four months, sowe can safely claim that our wines havestarted to settle into the marketplace.”

Meanwhile, the bodega has already set itssights on Japan and the US as overseasmarkets. “The European sector is alreadyvery saturated, so we’re scoping outother alternatives,” explains Fernández.“We’ve already made two trips to Japanand we have an on-site commercialagent. For this Christmas we’ll becomplementing requests for sampleboxes with a selection of cavas, and oneAmerican importer has already showninterest. We’re thinking of starting withFlorida and then working on the westcoast, though we intend to take it slowand consolidate what we have achievedalready.”El Xamfrà’s vinegars, which are mainlydistributed through gourmet channels,present a good commercial argument forintroducing the bodega’s wines. “Oncepeople have become acquainted with oneof our products, they tend to try theothers,” observes Fernández. Its current

range of cavas

includes a Reserva and a Gran Reserva,as well as the Reserva 2004, agedsomewhere between the previous two. ElXamfrà also makes varietal andmultivarietal wines.

Date of foundation: 1987Activity: Producing and selling winesand vinegarsWorkforce: 6 employeesTurnover for 2006: 200,000 eurosExport quota: 10%www.elxamfra.com

ON THE MOVE

BUSINESSWATCH

ON THE MOVE

BUSINESSWATCH

pleased with the way it went,” he adds.A similar event was held two years ago inthe UK, but today the Peñín Group isnow even more ambitious. “Given thesuccess of ‘The new values of Spanishwine’, we are planning an event calledthe ‘Salón Guía Peñín 90+ New York’,”the group’s founder informs us. Thismain attraction of this event, which is setto feature the guide’s most singularSpanish wines, will be “the guaranteethat its independent judgment representssomething consumers truly value.” Evenso, the US promises to be just the tip ofthe iceberg in terms of the Peñín Group’sexpansion plans. “We are alreadyengaged in negotiations to replicate thesame format in China and Japan,” hereveals. The Guía Peñín has been published forover 20 years, and there are Spanish,English and German editions, as well asa recently launched digital version. Inaddition to the guide, the Peñín Grouppublishes Sibaritas magazine devoted towines and liqueurs, and also managesSpain’s biggest winery and wine database.

Date of foundation: 1990Activity: Publishing andcommunications consultancyWorkforce: 26 employeesTurnover for 2006: 2.45 million eurosExport quota: 3%www.grupopenin.com

Agromillora shapesthe future of Chileanolive-growingWorth 40 million euros and extendingover 3,000 ha (7,400 acres), Olivos delSur is one of the biggest olive-growinginvestments in Chile. The project, whichis the brain-child of Chileanbusinessman Alfonso Swett, is beingfacilitated by Agromillora. Working fromits Spanish headquarters through itssubsidiary company in Chile,Agromillora has been responsible forsupplying the grafted olive stocks thatthe venture required. The involvement ofthe Catalan firm, which specializes infruit and vegetable plant nurseries, alsoextended its services to providing adviceon acquiring the necessary land, locatedin San José de Marchigüe (in the coastalprovince of Cardenal Caro) andtransferring the technology. In total therewill be six million olive trees, togetherwith the investment in productionpremises and a greenhouse with ahighly-controlled environment. Thecontract is worth three million euros.The Chilean state entity CORFO(Corporation for Fostering Production)has presented Agromillora at a series ofseminars aimed at introducing thecompany to producers in Chile.“With 20 million olive trees producedthis year, we can safely claim to be theworld’s leading nursery for this species,”declares Joan Torrent, sub-director of theCatalan company. However, Agromilloraalso specializes in producing vines andstone-fruit plants as well as in cross-breeding to improve varieties.Currently, Chile and the US are this

More newswww.spaingourmetour.com

08-EnMarcha.qxd 14/7/07 18:24 Página 96 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

oportunidad al resto”, concluye. En laactualidad, su línea de cavas comprende

EnMarcha_SGT71 AF.qxd 5/7/07 17:24 Página 96

96 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 97

company’s two big markets in theAmericas, and it has subsidiaries inBrazil, Chile, Morocco, Tunisia andAustralia. “Our latest plans are focusedon extending our presence in Asia,”explains Jordi Mateu, Agromillora’stechnical director. Projected turnoverfigures for 2007 are approximately 33million dollars.

Date of foundation: 1986Activity: Fruit and vegetable nurseryWorkforce: 500 employeesTurnover for 2006: 18.44 million eurosExport quota: 40%www.agromillora.com

El Xamfrà takes top-of-the-range vinegars internationalIn the last few years, El Xamfrà, a winerythat specializes in producing wines andliqueurs, has diversified its output with anew, and very well-received, range ofvarietal vinegars. This Catalan company,which is currently in the process ofexpanding internationally, has reachedagreements with importers in the UKand Germany for them to distribute itsMoscatel, Cabernet Sauvignon andChardonnay vinegars. “Moscatel vinegaris the most sought-after, perhaps becauseit is slightly sweet without being heavy,as balsamic vinegars tend to be. They areall made from quality wines,” explainsCristina Fernández, head of El Xamfrà’sexport and sales department. She goeson to say, “Orders from the UK arerepeated every three to four months, sowe can safely claim that our wines havestarted to settle into the marketplace.”

Meanwhile, the bodega has already set itssights on Japan and the US as overseasmarkets. “The European sector is alreadyvery saturated, so we’re scoping outother alternatives,” explains Fernández.“We’ve already made two trips to Japanand we have an on-site commercialagent. For this Christmas we’ll becomplementing requests for sampleboxes with a selection of cavas, and oneAmerican importer has already showninterest. We’re thinking of starting withFlorida and then working on the westcoast, though we intend to take it slowand consolidate what we have achievedalready.”El Xamfrà’s vinegars, which are mainlydistributed through gourmet channels,present a good commercial argument forintroducing the bodega’s wines. “Oncepeople have become acquainted with oneof our products, they tend to try theothers,” observes Fernández. Its current

range of cavas

includes a Reserva and a Gran Reserva,as well as the Reserva 2004, agedsomewhere between the previous two. ElXamfrà also makes varietal andmultivarietal wines.

Date of foundation: 1987Activity: Producing and selling winesand vinegarsWorkforce: 6 employeesTurnover for 2006: 200,000 eurosExport quota: 10%www.elxamfra.com

ON THE MOVE

BUSINESSWATCH

ON THE MOVE

BUSINESSWATCH

pleased with the way it went,” he adds.A similar event was held two years ago inthe UK, but today the Peñín Group isnow even more ambitious. “Given thesuccess of ‘The new values of Spanishwine’, we are planning an event calledthe ‘Salón Guía Peñín 90+ New York’,”the group’s founder informs us. Thismain attraction of this event, which is setto feature the guide’s most singularSpanish wines, will be “the guaranteethat its independent judgment representssomething consumers truly value.” Evenso, the US promises to be just the tip ofthe iceberg in terms of the Peñín Group’sexpansion plans. “We are alreadyengaged in negotiations to replicate thesame format in China and Japan,” hereveals. The Guía Peñín has been published forover 20 years, and there are Spanish,English and German editions, as well asa recently launched digital version. Inaddition to the guide, the Peñín Grouppublishes Sibaritas magazine devoted towines and liqueurs, and also managesSpain’s biggest winery and wine database.

Date of foundation: 1990Activity: Publishing andcommunications consultancyWorkforce: 26 employeesTurnover for 2006: 2.45 million eurosExport quota: 3%www.grupopenin.com

Agromillora shapesthe future of Chileanolive-growingWorth 40 million euros and extendingover 3,000 ha (7,400 acres), Olivos delSur is one of the biggest olive-growinginvestments in Chile. The project, whichis the brain-child of Chileanbusinessman Alfonso Swett, is beingfacilitated by Agromillora. Working fromits Spanish headquarters through itssubsidiary company in Chile,Agromillora has been responsible forsupplying the grafted olive stocks thatthe venture required. The involvement ofthe Catalan firm, which specializes infruit and vegetable plant nurseries, alsoextended its services to providing adviceon acquiring the necessary land, locatedin San José de Marchigüe (in the coastalprovince of Cardenal Caro) andtransferring the technology. In total therewill be six million olive trees, togetherwith the investment in productionpremises and a greenhouse with ahighly-controlled environment. Thecontract is worth three million euros.The Chilean state entity CORFO(Corporation for Fostering Production)has presented Agromillora at a series ofseminars aimed at introducing thecompany to producers in Chile.“With 20 million olive trees producedthis year, we can safely claim to be theworld’s leading nursery for this species,”declares Joan Torrent, sub-director of theCatalan company. However, Agromilloraalso specializes in producing vines andstone-fruit plants as well as in cross-breeding to improve varieties.Currently, Chile and the US are this

More newswww.spaingourmetour.com

08-EnMarcha.qxd 14/7/07 18:24 Página 96 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

piscifactoria de sierra nevada AF.qxd 5/7/07 17:13 Página 98

For more than 50 years, residents ofSpain’s Granada province haveknown where to go for the finestfresh trout. They have flocked torestaurants in Riofrío, a hamlet onthe main highway between Granadaand Málaga, to eat trout nurtured ona fish farm. Trade is still brisk, butunbeknownst to most visitors, lessthan a dozen feet away from thetrout tanks, a whole new industryhas been created. Withoutabandoning the trout, thePiscifactoría de Sierra Nevada hasinvested in a big way in producingtop-quality caviar under the brandname Caviar de Riofrío.It’s been a long process.It all began in 1983 and the firstcaviar (a mere 20 kg / 40 lbs) wasnot marketed until 2000. In 2007more than 2,000 kg (4,409 lbs) willbe sold, and next year who knows?Demand from home and abroad hasoutpaced supply, but among the400,000 sturgeon now in Riofrío’sfish tanks, thousands are nearing thetime when their eggs can beharvested.The Piscifactoría claims that it hasmore sturgeon than any other similarenterprise and that it is the onlynursery of its kind in the worldemploying a 100% certifiedecological process. At tastingsattended by international experts,Riofrío caviar has come out ahead ofbetter-known products from EasternEurope.Although caviar can be stored for upto six months in the correct

refrigerated conditions, it is at itsbest when consumed within sixdays, and the Sierra Nevadacompany prides itself on deliveringfresh caviar, and fast.“If we get an international ordertoday, the caviar can be on its waywithin hours to almost anydestination,” says José JavierRodríguez Núñez, the company’ssales manager. “It’s the only serviceof this type in the world.”He stresses: “Our process here istotally ecological from start to finishand we’re the only producers inEurope who can make this claim.Also the quality of the final product isguaranteed, unlike some otherproducts sold as caviar which arereally a mixture of different fish eggs.”Rodríguez travels the globe, fromShanghai to New York, expoundingthe merits of Riofrío caviar topossible buyers. About 20% ofproduction is exported, mostly todistributors, while the remainder issold in Spain, predominantly torestaurants and stores.

Exquisite product,exquisite historyThe Sierra Nevada fish farm datesback to 1956. It was founded by theDomezain family from Navarre andits initial aim was to produce trout tosupplement infants’ diets–thosewere, after all, Spain’s hungry years.Business really took off, sales soaredand restaurants in Riofrío flourished.In the early 1980s, however, trout

sales slumped, partly due to intensecompetition from other fish farms. Arethink was necessary and thedecision was made to try breedingsturgeon. It was a gamble that wouldrequire heavy investment and yearsof patient research.In 1983, a dozen sturgeon forbreeding were acquired from Italy.They were of the Accipenser naccariispecies, native to southern Europeand at one time extremely commonin the waters of the GuadalquivirRiver. Indeed, the sturgeon is said tohave inhabited this earth 250,000years ago along with the dinosaurs,and it was initially fished by thePhoenicians and Romans.For many years, a factory at Coriadel Río in the Seville area producedcaviar. But the establishment of damsand weirs blocked sturgeons’ routeupriver where they bred, waterpollution increased and in 1963 theCoria establishment closed. The lasttime a sturgeon is known to havebeen caught in the Guadalquivir wasin 1992.Meanwhile, poaching and pollutionhave reduced the famed sturgeon inthe Caspian Sea by 80% and stocksin Russia’s rivers are equallydepleted.Riofrío offered several importantadvantages for the establishment of asturgeon fishery. First, there was anabundant supply of fresh,unpolluted water from a snow-fedaquifer beneath the Sierra Nevadamountain range. Also, there thewater gushes from the rock at an

98 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 99

In a leafy valley west of Granada where crystalline water gushes from a mountain spring,

a daring business venture is truly taking off. Until recently, Spain’s native species of

sturgeon was in danger of extinction, but today some 400,000 are thriving in the pools

of Riofrío. Furthermore, gourmets around the world are enjoying the first fruits: caviar,

which is being produced in strictly ecological conditions and is winning accolades from

international experts.

CAVIARFROM GRANADA

Piscifactoría de Sierra Nevada

TextDavid BairdPhotosPiscifactoríade Sierra Nevada

09-piscifactoria.qxd 14/7/07 18:35 Página 98 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

piscifactoria de sierra nevada AF.qxd 5/7/07 17:13 Página 98

For more than 50 years, residents ofSpain’s Granada province haveknown where to go for the finestfresh trout. They have flocked torestaurants in Riofrío, a hamlet onthe main highway between Granadaand Málaga, to eat trout nurtured ona fish farm. Trade is still brisk, butunbeknownst to most visitors, lessthan a dozen feet away from thetrout tanks, a whole new industryhas been created. Withoutabandoning the trout, thePiscifactoría de Sierra Nevada hasinvested in a big way in producingtop-quality caviar under the brandname Caviar de Riofrío.It’s been a long process.It all began in 1983 and the firstcaviar (a mere 20 kg / 40 lbs) wasnot marketed until 2000. In 2007more than 2,000 kg (4,409 lbs) willbe sold, and next year who knows?Demand from home and abroad hasoutpaced supply, but among the400,000 sturgeon now in Riofrío’sfish tanks, thousands are nearing thetime when their eggs can beharvested.The Piscifactoría claims that it hasmore sturgeon than any other similarenterprise and that it is the onlynursery of its kind in the worldemploying a 100% certifiedecological process. At tastingsattended by international experts,Riofrío caviar has come out ahead ofbetter-known products from EasternEurope.Although caviar can be stored for upto six months in the correct

refrigerated conditions, it is at itsbest when consumed within sixdays, and the Sierra Nevadacompany prides itself on deliveringfresh caviar, and fast.“If we get an international ordertoday, the caviar can be on its waywithin hours to almost anydestination,” says José JavierRodríguez Núñez, the company’ssales manager. “It’s the only serviceof this type in the world.”He stresses: “Our process here istotally ecological from start to finishand we’re the only producers inEurope who can make this claim.Also the quality of the final product isguaranteed, unlike some otherproducts sold as caviar which arereally a mixture of different fish eggs.”Rodríguez travels the globe, fromShanghai to New York, expoundingthe merits of Riofrío caviar topossible buyers. About 20% ofproduction is exported, mostly todistributors, while the remainder issold in Spain, predominantly torestaurants and stores.

Exquisite product,exquisite historyThe Sierra Nevada fish farm datesback to 1956. It was founded by theDomezain family from Navarre andits initial aim was to produce trout tosupplement infants’ diets–thosewere, after all, Spain’s hungry years.Business really took off, sales soaredand restaurants in Riofrío flourished.In the early 1980s, however, trout

sales slumped, partly due to intensecompetition from other fish farms. Arethink was necessary and thedecision was made to try breedingsturgeon. It was a gamble that wouldrequire heavy investment and yearsof patient research.In 1983, a dozen sturgeon forbreeding were acquired from Italy.They were of the Accipenser naccariispecies, native to southern Europeand at one time extremely commonin the waters of the GuadalquivirRiver. Indeed, the sturgeon is said tohave inhabited this earth 250,000years ago along with the dinosaurs,and it was initially fished by thePhoenicians and Romans.For many years, a factory at Coriadel Río in the Seville area producedcaviar. But the establishment of damsand weirs blocked sturgeons’ routeupriver where they bred, waterpollution increased and in 1963 theCoria establishment closed. The lasttime a sturgeon is known to havebeen caught in the Guadalquivir wasin 1992.Meanwhile, poaching and pollutionhave reduced the famed sturgeon inthe Caspian Sea by 80% and stocksin Russia’s rivers are equallydepleted.Riofrío offered several importantadvantages for the establishment of asturgeon fishery. First, there was anabundant supply of fresh,unpolluted water from a snow-fedaquifer beneath the Sierra Nevadamountain range. Also, there thewater gushes from the rock at an

98 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 99

In a leafy valley west of Granada where crystalline water gushes from a mountain spring,

a daring business venture is truly taking off. Until recently, Spain’s native species of

sturgeon was in danger of extinction, but today some 400,000 are thriving in the pools

of Riofrío. Furthermore, gourmets around the world are enjoying the first fruits: caviar,

which is being produced in strictly ecological conditions and is winning accolades from

international experts.

CAVIARFROM GRANADA

Piscifactoría de Sierra Nevada

TextDavid BairdPhotosPiscifactoríade Sierra Nevada

09-piscifactoria.qxd 14/7/07 18:35 Página 98 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

piscifactoria de sierra nevada AF.qxd 12/7/07 02:40 Página 100

consists of eggs. These are removed,washed to get rid of the fat aroundthem and dried.Very little marine salt is added totaste (known as the malossol system),and the caviar is ready. It is a pearly-grey color and has a silky, tenderconsistency with a scent suggestingsea breezes. In their descriptions,connoisseurs wax lyrical, employingthe same sort of poetic language oftenused for wines.Riofrío markets its product in variouscategories and takes pains withquality control, as David Montalbán,assistant sales director, points out.“We want to ensure that our caviar isnot mixed with inferior varieties, sowe only sell it in our own clearlylabeled packages.”In most of the caviar produced by thecompany, no preservatives are used.They are best stored at between 1 and3ºC (33.8 and 37.4ºF) and must bekept refrigerated to avoiddeterioration. Fresh, recentlyextracted caviar, which should beconsumed within five days, is onlyavailable on special order and is soldin 200, 500 and 1,000-g sizes (7, 17and 35 oz).Other varieties include the Clásico,sold at 1,900 euros a kg (2.2 lbs),and the top brand, Excelsius TripleCero, 3,600 euros a kg (2.2 lbs). Tinsand glass jars are available for sale tothe public in smaller quantities. Forexample 60 g (2 oz) of Clásico is115 euros and 60 g (2 oz) ofExcelsius costs 220 euros.Also highly prized are Riofrío’ssturgeon fillets, as the flesh has thesame flavor as caviar. They aremarketed in smoked and marinatedforms, and fresh fillets are sold for 25euros a kg (2.2 lbs).

A flourishing familybusinessIn November 2005, the Riofríoproduct was put to a supreme test ata tasting in Granada attended byinternational experts. Competingwith some of the world’s mostprestigious caviars, including threebrands from Iran, this product fromthe Sierra Nevada fish farm tookhome the gold medal. In 2003,Spain’s Ministry of Agriculture, Foodand Fisheries named the Piscifactoríathe country’s best food business in itstechnology investment category.While the Piscifactoría de SierraNevada now employs 30 full-timeemployees, plus up to 25 temporaryworkers and visiting researchers, it isstill a family business. JulioDomezain is the manager and hisbrother Albert is in charge ofresearch and development. Researchis being carried out on the possibleuses of sturgeon for medicinalpurposes and the Spanish companyis involved in technology exchangesthrough its close internationalcontacts.

Under the auspices of CITES(Convention on International Tradein Endangered Species of WildFauna and Flora), it is collaboratingwith Iranians and Russians to helprebuild their sturgeon resources andintroduce the latest technology. It isalso working on projects withFrench and German caviarproducers.“Peak sales months are Novemberand December,” notes Montalbán.“Demand is growing all the time, butevery year we are able to increaseproduction as more sturgeon reachmaturity.”

David Baird originally hails fromGreat Britain but is a resident ofMálaga. As a journalist he has workedas a foreign correspondent all over theworld. His reports have been printed inmany publications, from the UK toHong Kong to California. His books onSpanish themes include Sunny SideUp–the 21st century hits a Spanishvillage and Back roads of southernSpain.

100 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 101

ideal temperature for trout andsturgeon, between 13 and 16ºC (55to 60ºF) all year around, and itemerges at a rate of between 2,000to 3,000 l a second (528 to 792 gal).Second, the physical installationsalready existed, as there were a seriesof large, concrete-walled tankspreviously used for trout. They arelocated in a narrow valley so that thewater cascades from one tank to thenext.

Financing a futureEven so, the estimated investment todate is 600,000 euros. Many years ofbreeding and research were neededbefore there was any return.Investigation into the characteristicsof the naccarii species involveduniversities in Cádiz and Granadaand Russian and Italian researchers.But indeed, research was done andthe fish farm set out to breed thisextremely unique fish.A toothless, shark-like creature withfour feelers on the underside of itslong snout, the sturgeon hatches

from its egg and grows to its fullymature state at the Sierra Nevada fishfarm.This species does not producecaviar until it is 16 to 18 years old,twice as long as the Caspian Sea’sbeluga sturgeon (Acipenser huso).Fourteen years passed before anysturgeon flesh, already very indemand, could be marketed and thefirst Riofrío caviar was harvestedjust in 2000.A vital aspect of the ecologicalprocess is diet. A special feedmixture, some 50,000 kg (110,250lbs) every month, is prepared atRiofrío. It consists of wheat flour,fish oil, fishmeal imported fromFrance, krill, algae and mollusks.Algae are collected from a marshyarea below the nurseries into whichthe water drains after passingthrough the fish tanks.Every two days the food is scatteredby hand over the tanks so that itsettles on the bottom where thesturgeon use their feelers to detect it.The thousands of fish are animpressive sight as they languidly

glide along, as many are well overone m long (3.3 ft). They can live 90years or more and reach an amazingsize. The beluga species in theCaspian and Black Seas, for example,reputedly lives up to 300 years andcan weigh more than 1,000 kg(2,205 lbs).

The finalpreparationsThe company points out that theslow, natural maturing of its fish isvital in producing a superior finalproduct; after all, it doesn’t take thesame time to make a good meal as toprepare a pre-cooked hamburger. Aprimary ecological product, itmaintains, will always be richer inshades of color and flavor and betastier and healthier than theequivalent product produced non-ecologically.When they are eight years old, thesturgeon are examined to determinewhich sex they are. Males are keptuntil they are 12, when they weigharound 15 kg (33 lbs), and thensold for their flesh. Females enjoymore privileged treatment. Eachone has a chip inserted with detailsof its age, diet and otherinformation. It is subsequentlyreturned to the water until it is atleast 16 years old when it’s taken tothe so-called quirófano (operatingroom), a laboratory where a scanand a biopsy are carried out todetermine if the optimum momentfor removing eggs has arrived.The fish, by this time weighingaround 40 or 50 kg (88 to 110 lbs),is massaged to induce sleepiness andthen dispatched with a single, sharpblow to the head. About 10% of afemale’s body weight normally

PISCIFACTORÍA DE SIERRA NEVADA

BUSINESSWATCH

PISCIFACTORÍA DE SIERRA NEVADA

BUSINESSWATCH

09-piscifactoria.qxd 14/7/07 18:35 Página 100 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

piscifactoria de sierra nevada AF.qxd 12/7/07 02:40 Página 100

consists of eggs. These are removed,washed to get rid of the fat aroundthem and dried.Very little marine salt is added totaste (known as the malossol system),and the caviar is ready. It is a pearly-grey color and has a silky, tenderconsistency with a scent suggestingsea breezes. In their descriptions,connoisseurs wax lyrical, employingthe same sort of poetic language oftenused for wines.Riofrío markets its product in variouscategories and takes pains withquality control, as David Montalbán,assistant sales director, points out.“We want to ensure that our caviar isnot mixed with inferior varieties, sowe only sell it in our own clearlylabeled packages.”In most of the caviar produced by thecompany, no preservatives are used.They are best stored at between 1 and3ºC (33.8 and 37.4ºF) and must bekept refrigerated to avoiddeterioration. Fresh, recentlyextracted caviar, which should beconsumed within five days, is onlyavailable on special order and is soldin 200, 500 and 1,000-g sizes (7, 17and 35 oz).Other varieties include the Clásico,sold at 1,900 euros a kg (2.2 lbs),and the top brand, Excelsius TripleCero, 3,600 euros a kg (2.2 lbs). Tinsand glass jars are available for sale tothe public in smaller quantities. Forexample 60 g (2 oz) of Clásico is115 euros and 60 g (2 oz) ofExcelsius costs 220 euros.Also highly prized are Riofrío’ssturgeon fillets, as the flesh has thesame flavor as caviar. They aremarketed in smoked and marinatedforms, and fresh fillets are sold for 25euros a kg (2.2 lbs).

A flourishing familybusinessIn November 2005, the Riofríoproduct was put to a supreme test ata tasting in Granada attended byinternational experts. Competingwith some of the world’s mostprestigious caviars, including threebrands from Iran, this product fromthe Sierra Nevada fish farm tookhome the gold medal. In 2003,Spain’s Ministry of Agriculture, Foodand Fisheries named the Piscifactoríathe country’s best food business in itstechnology investment category.While the Piscifactoría de SierraNevada now employs 30 full-timeemployees, plus up to 25 temporaryworkers and visiting researchers, it isstill a family business. JulioDomezain is the manager and hisbrother Albert is in charge ofresearch and development. Researchis being carried out on the possibleuses of sturgeon for medicinalpurposes and the Spanish companyis involved in technology exchangesthrough its close internationalcontacts.

Under the auspices of CITES(Convention on International Tradein Endangered Species of WildFauna and Flora), it is collaboratingwith Iranians and Russians to helprebuild their sturgeon resources andintroduce the latest technology. It isalso working on projects withFrench and German caviarproducers.“Peak sales months are Novemberand December,” notes Montalbán.“Demand is growing all the time, butevery year we are able to increaseproduction as more sturgeon reachmaturity.”

David Baird originally hails fromGreat Britain but is a resident ofMálaga. As a journalist he has workedas a foreign correspondent all over theworld. His reports have been printed inmany publications, from the UK toHong Kong to California. His books onSpanish themes include Sunny SideUp–the 21st century hits a Spanishvillage and Back roads of southernSpain.

100 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 101

ideal temperature for trout andsturgeon, between 13 and 16ºC (55to 60ºF) all year around, and itemerges at a rate of between 2,000to 3,000 l a second (528 to 792 gal).Second, the physical installationsalready existed, as there were a seriesof large, concrete-walled tankspreviously used for trout. They arelocated in a narrow valley so that thewater cascades from one tank to thenext.

Financing a futureEven so, the estimated investment todate is 600,000 euros. Many years ofbreeding and research were neededbefore there was any return.Investigation into the characteristicsof the naccarii species involveduniversities in Cádiz and Granadaand Russian and Italian researchers.But indeed, research was done andthe fish farm set out to breed thisextremely unique fish.A toothless, shark-like creature withfour feelers on the underside of itslong snout, the sturgeon hatches

from its egg and grows to its fullymature state at the Sierra Nevada fishfarm.This species does not producecaviar until it is 16 to 18 years old,twice as long as the Caspian Sea’sbeluga sturgeon (Acipenser huso).Fourteen years passed before anysturgeon flesh, already very indemand, could be marketed and thefirst Riofrío caviar was harvestedjust in 2000.A vital aspect of the ecologicalprocess is diet. A special feedmixture, some 50,000 kg (110,250lbs) every month, is prepared atRiofrío. It consists of wheat flour,fish oil, fishmeal imported fromFrance, krill, algae and mollusks.Algae are collected from a marshyarea below the nurseries into whichthe water drains after passingthrough the fish tanks.Every two days the food is scatteredby hand over the tanks so that itsettles on the bottom where thesturgeon use their feelers to detect it.The thousands of fish are animpressive sight as they languidly

glide along, as many are well overone m long (3.3 ft). They can live 90years or more and reach an amazingsize. The beluga species in theCaspian and Black Seas, for example,reputedly lives up to 300 years andcan weigh more than 1,000 kg(2,205 lbs).

The finalpreparationsThe company points out that theslow, natural maturing of its fish isvital in producing a superior finalproduct; after all, it doesn’t take thesame time to make a good meal as toprepare a pre-cooked hamburger. Aprimary ecological product, itmaintains, will always be richer inshades of color and flavor and betastier and healthier than theequivalent product produced non-ecologically.When they are eight years old, thesturgeon are examined to determinewhich sex they are. Males are keptuntil they are 12, when they weigharound 15 kg (33 lbs), and thensold for their flesh. Females enjoymore privileged treatment. Eachone has a chip inserted with detailsof its age, diet and otherinformation. It is subsequentlyreturned to the water until it is atleast 16 years old when it’s taken tothe so-called quirófano (operatingroom), a laboratory where a scanand a biopsy are carried out todetermine if the optimum momentfor removing eggs has arrived.The fish, by this time weighingaround 40 or 50 kg (88 to 110 lbs),is massaged to induce sleepiness andthen dispatched with a single, sharpblow to the head. About 10% of afemale’s body weight normally

PISCIFACTORÍA DE SIERRA NEVADA

BUSINESSWATCH

PISCIFACTORÍA DE SIERRA NEVADA

BUSINESSWATCH

09-piscifactoria.qxd 14/7/07 18:35 Página 100 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

HughThomas_SGT71 AF.qxd 5/7/07 16:34 Página 102

Lord Thomas of Swynnerton, aka Hugh Thomas,

is a Hispanist and a guru for other Hispanists.

His book The Spanish Civil War has been, and

continues to be, a major work of reference for

any student. He was born in Windsor in 1931.

After studying at Cambridge and the Sorbonne,

he joined the Foreign Office. He was a Labor

Party supporter until 1975 when he shifted

allegiance to the Conservative Party. Appointed

director of the Centre for Policy Studies in

London by Margaret Thatcher when she was

Prime Minister, he was granted a life peerage in

1981 and now sits as an independent in the

House of Lords. In 2001, he was awarded the

Grand Cross of the Order of Isabella the

Catholic, Spain’s top civil decoration.

Hugh Thomas,Historian

Spanish at Heart

Spain’s

RECO

RD-K

EEPE

R

10-HughThomas.qxd 14/7/07 18:39 Página 102 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

HughThomas_SGT71 AF.qxd 5/7/07 16:34 Página 102

Lord Thomas of Swynnerton, aka Hugh Thomas,

is a Hispanist and a guru for other Hispanists.

His book The Spanish Civil War has been, and

continues to be, a major work of reference for

any student. He was born in Windsor in 1931.

After studying at Cambridge and the Sorbonne,

he joined the Foreign Office. He was a Labor

Party supporter until 1975 when he shifted

allegiance to the Conservative Party. Appointed

director of the Centre for Policy Studies in

London by Margaret Thatcher when she was

Prime Minister, he was granted a life peerage in

1981 and now sits as an independent in the

House of Lords. In 2001, he was awarded the

Grand Cross of the Order of Isabella the

Catholic, Spain’s top civil decoration.

Hugh Thomas,Historian

Spanish at Heart

Spain’s

RECO

RD-K

EEPE

R10-HughThomas.qxd 14/7/07 18:39 Página 102 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

HughThomas_SGT71 AF.qxd 5/7/07 16:34 Página 104

well (“I’ve been to all Spain’sprovincial capitals”) and, apart fromits history and culture, “what I likemost is the food. I love fish,especially hook-caught hake. TheSpanish take fish cookery veryseriously.” The historian alsoenthuses about the classic Galicianoctopus dish pulpo a feira (preparedwith olive oil, salt and paprika),which he has eaten in Carballino, theOrense town famous throughoutSpain for its annual octopus-cookingfestival.As for the Spanish character, forThomas “it combines the ceremonialand the informal in a way that I findappealing, possibly because itdoesn’t occur in any other Europeancountry.” He continues jokingly: “Afriend of mine who had a Spanishbutler used to say that nothingworked properly in his house exceptin an emergency, when everythingwould go perfectly.” And what doesLord Thomas like least about Spainand the Spanish? He seems to castabout for an answer before finallydeclaring: “Perhaps their lack of self-confidence. They have to get rid of

that inferiority complex.”Although primarily a historian,Thomas has also written novels andtravel books. He wrote one of them,A Letter from Asturias, because, “Ihave friends in that part of thecountry and I’ve spent severalsummers there, between Muros deNalón and Llanes.” He is alsofascinated by the popular fiestas ofwhich there are so many in Spain,marking such diverse causes forcelebration. “I’ve been on the Rocíopilgrimage, taken part in Seville’sHoly Week, the San Fermín bull runin Pamplona, the Fallas bonfires inValencia… I’m impressed by theimmense participation, the passionand how closely engaged people arewith events of that sort.”Thomas does not subscribe to thetheory that Spain’s heterogeneousnature distinguishes it from otherEuropean countries. “It’s quite truethat there are differences between anAndalusian and a Catalan, but youalso find the same sort of differencesbetween regions in France, Germanyand Italy. By the way, I don’t knowwhat’s going to happen during

today’s election.” (Thomas isreferring to the regional electionstaking place in the UK on the day ofour interview. As it turns out, theScottish Nationalists did well,restoring the issue of Scottishindependence to prominence onBritain’s political agenda).

Favorite figuresAside from the Catholic Monarchs,Hernán Cortés, conquistador ofMexico, is a figure that Thomas findsespecially fascinating. “He was a verycultured man, and even his enemy,Bartolomé de las Casas, admits thathe spoke Latin very well.” Thatdegree of enlightenment was notcommon among conquistadors ofthe period. Cortés was also a greatwriter. “His letters to Charles V are atreasure, only surpassed, at that timeand from a literary point of view, byLa Celestina, attributed to Fernandode Rojas and considered to be theprecursor of the modern novel.”He is also interested in Franco. “Imay very well write something abouthim, though other writers, such as

104 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 105

Bobbies in helmets are a rare sight inLondon these days. And the Londonskyline is no longer what it used tobe, what with the giant wheel of theLondon Eye opposite the Houses ofParliament and Norman Foster’stower called the “gherkin”. Manypubs no longer close at 11 p.m., andthe second best cook in the world isa Brit. And with global warminggoing the way it is, the UK is likelyto be producing quality wines in thenot too distant future.Equally unexpectedly, the afternoonof May 4th is sunny and hot inLondon. People are sunningthemselves at tables in front of pubs. Hugh Thomas lives on a wide, quiet,tree-lined street in the Notting HillGate area, not far from PortobelloRoad’s famous market. His is atypical, semi-detached Londonhouse, with a little, wrought-irongate opening onto steps that lead upto a front door flanked by pillars.Lord Thomas greets us, dressed in anelegant, navy blue suit. The smalldrawing room has wall-to-walltraditional furniture, rugs andhangings (“My grandfather painted

the pictures when he was in India”).A baby grand piano (“My daughterplays it”) features prominently in themiddle of the room. Off the sittingroom is a light-filled conservatorythat leads out to the garden (“It’s toowild: the neighbors’ is much tidier”).“My first trip to Spain was in 1955.My father was posted in Africa andwe decided to meet up in Málaga.”Thomas took the TALGO (a Spanish-patented fast train) from Hendaye,traveling to Madrid at a thenamazing speed of 120 km (75 mi)per hour. From there he continuedhis journey south in third class. “Iremember that trip very clearly; itleft a strong impression on me,especially Antequera station on thatlovely, sunny winter’s day. It has aquality of light I associate withSpain.”At that time, the only foreignhistorian to have written about theSpanish Civil War was GeraldBrenan (The Spanish Labyrinth,Cambridge, 1943), who he later met.The war’s many facets wereguaranteed to fascinate any historian,as they did Thomas. However,

Brenan’s book had focused primarilyon the social and political build-upto the war. “A diplomat friend toldme that I should write a book thatcovered all aspects, and that waswhat got me started.”Thomas finished his book TheSpanish Civil War in 1961, andhappened upon a publishing housethat had been recently set up in Parisby Spanish exiles called El RuedoIbérico, which launched itspublishing career with his book (itsnext publication was Brenan’s).During its 20 years in the business,El Ruedo Ibérico published about150 books which were systematicallycensored by the Franco regime.Rather than being anti-Franco,Thomas’ book simply took anobjective approach. This was how itwas perceived by independenthistorians when it first appeared, andit went on to become a fundamentalwork of reference for anyone studyingthe war. “My book was banned inSpain, but I wasn’t. I was able tocontinue traveling there and movingabout. No one ever bothered me.”Hugh Thomas knows Spain very

SPANISH AT HEART

COLOPHON

TEXTCARLOS TEJERO

PHOTOSPABLO NEUSTADT/ICEX

TRANSLATIONHAWYS PRITCHARD

10-HughThomas.qxd 16/7/07 14:12 Página 104 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

HughThomas_SGT71 AF.qxd 5/7/07 16:34 Página 104

well (“I’ve been to all Spain’sprovincial capitals”) and, apart fromits history and culture, “what I likemost is the food. I love fish,especially hook-caught hake. TheSpanish take fish cookery veryseriously.” The historian alsoenthuses about the classic Galicianoctopus dish pulpo a feira (preparedwith olive oil, salt and paprika),which he has eaten in Carballino, theOrense town famous throughoutSpain for its annual octopus-cookingfestival.As for the Spanish character, forThomas “it combines the ceremonialand the informal in a way that I findappealing, possibly because itdoesn’t occur in any other Europeancountry.” He continues jokingly: “Afriend of mine who had a Spanishbutler used to say that nothingworked properly in his house exceptin an emergency, when everythingwould go perfectly.” And what doesLord Thomas like least about Spainand the Spanish? He seems to castabout for an answer before finallydeclaring: “Perhaps their lack of self-confidence. They have to get rid of

that inferiority complex.”Although primarily a historian,Thomas has also written novels andtravel books. He wrote one of them,A Letter from Asturias, because, “Ihave friends in that part of thecountry and I’ve spent severalsummers there, between Muros deNalón and Llanes.” He is alsofascinated by the popular fiestas ofwhich there are so many in Spain,marking such diverse causes forcelebration. “I’ve been on the Rocíopilgrimage, taken part in Seville’sHoly Week, the San Fermín bull runin Pamplona, the Fallas bonfires inValencia… I’m impressed by theimmense participation, the passionand how closely engaged people arewith events of that sort.”Thomas does not subscribe to thetheory that Spain’s heterogeneousnature distinguishes it from otherEuropean countries. “It’s quite truethat there are differences between anAndalusian and a Catalan, but youalso find the same sort of differencesbetween regions in France, Germanyand Italy. By the way, I don’t knowwhat’s going to happen during

today’s election.” (Thomas isreferring to the regional electionstaking place in the UK on the day ofour interview. As it turns out, theScottish Nationalists did well,restoring the issue of Scottishindependence to prominence onBritain’s political agenda).

Favorite figuresAside from the Catholic Monarchs,Hernán Cortés, conquistador ofMexico, is a figure that Thomas findsespecially fascinating. “He was a verycultured man, and even his enemy,Bartolomé de las Casas, admits thathe spoke Latin very well.” Thatdegree of enlightenment was notcommon among conquistadors ofthe period. Cortés was also a greatwriter. “His letters to Charles V are atreasure, only surpassed, at that timeand from a literary point of view, byLa Celestina, attributed to Fernandode Rojas and considered to be theprecursor of the modern novel.”He is also interested in Franco. “Imay very well write something abouthim, though other writers, such as

104 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 105

Bobbies in helmets are a rare sight inLondon these days. And the Londonskyline is no longer what it used tobe, what with the giant wheel of theLondon Eye opposite the Houses ofParliament and Norman Foster’stower called the “gherkin”. Manypubs no longer close at 11 p.m., andthe second best cook in the world isa Brit. And with global warminggoing the way it is, the UK is likelyto be producing quality wines in thenot too distant future.Equally unexpectedly, the afternoonof May 4th is sunny and hot inLondon. People are sunningthemselves at tables in front of pubs. Hugh Thomas lives on a wide, quiet,tree-lined street in the Notting HillGate area, not far from PortobelloRoad’s famous market. His is atypical, semi-detached Londonhouse, with a little, wrought-irongate opening onto steps that lead upto a front door flanked by pillars.Lord Thomas greets us, dressed in anelegant, navy blue suit. The smalldrawing room has wall-to-walltraditional furniture, rugs andhangings (“My grandfather painted

the pictures when he was in India”).A baby grand piano (“My daughterplays it”) features prominently in themiddle of the room. Off the sittingroom is a light-filled conservatorythat leads out to the garden (“It’s toowild: the neighbors’ is much tidier”).“My first trip to Spain was in 1955.My father was posted in Africa andwe decided to meet up in Málaga.”Thomas took the TALGO (a Spanish-patented fast train) from Hendaye,traveling to Madrid at a thenamazing speed of 120 km (75 mi)per hour. From there he continuedhis journey south in third class. “Iremember that trip very clearly; itleft a strong impression on me,especially Antequera station on thatlovely, sunny winter’s day. It has aquality of light I associate withSpain.”At that time, the only foreignhistorian to have written about theSpanish Civil War was GeraldBrenan (The Spanish Labyrinth,Cambridge, 1943), who he later met.The war’s many facets wereguaranteed to fascinate any historian,as they did Thomas. However,

Brenan’s book had focused primarilyon the social and political build-upto the war. “A diplomat friend toldme that I should write a book thatcovered all aspects, and that waswhat got me started.”Thomas finished his book TheSpanish Civil War in 1961, andhappened upon a publishing housethat had been recently set up in Parisby Spanish exiles called El RuedoIbérico, which launched itspublishing career with his book (itsnext publication was Brenan’s).During its 20 years in the business,El Ruedo Ibérico published about150 books which were systematicallycensored by the Franco regime.Rather than being anti-Franco,Thomas’ book simply took anobjective approach. This was how itwas perceived by independenthistorians when it first appeared, andit went on to become a fundamentalwork of reference for anyone studyingthe war. “My book was banned inSpain, but I wasn’t. I was able tocontinue traveling there and movingabout. No one ever bothered me.”Hugh Thomas knows Spain very

SPANISH AT HEART

COLOPHON

TEXTCARLOS TEJERO

PHOTOSPABLO NEUSTADT/ICEX

TRANSLATIONHAWYS PRITCHARD

10-HughThomas.qxd 16/7/07 14:12 Página 104 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

HughThomas_SGT71 AF.qxd 12/7/07 02:44 Página 106

106 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

my disciple and colleague PaulPreston, have already researched himthoroughly.”Thomas’ latest published work is nottypical of his style as an author, norof Spain’s publishing market, whichis not known for producingbiographical books aboutentrepreneurs. Barreiros, el motor deEspaña relates the intriguing story ofEduardo Barreiros, a self-made man,originally from Galicia, whosucceeded in creating an industrialempire in a country that wastechnologically backwards,politically controlled andeconomically self-sufficient at thetime.Barreiros set up a truck factory inVillaverde (now a district in Madrid),employing 1,500 workers. He laterformed a partnership with Chryslerand began manufacturing small carswhich were widely exported.However, Barreiros’ intuitive natureand informal style was out of kilterwith the Americans’ methodicalapproach, and he ended up selling

them his part of the company in1969.“He was a mechanical expert, knewall about engines and was a creativebusinessman, a visionary, wholooked after his workers. He knewnearly all of them personally, set up anursery, organized trainingcourses….” Thomas has interviewedBarreiros’ former collaborators andworkers, who “all remember himfondly.”Contrary to widespread belief,Barreiros did not do well because ofthe regime, as others did, but ratherdespite it. “Barreiros was anindependent entrepreneur, and thatsort of figure did not go down wellwith a government influenced by themilitary and which had to haveeverything under control.” In fact,despite being one of the mostimportant businessmen in thecountry, he never met Suances, theMinister of Industry. Suances was aphalangist who believed thatindustrial production should be inthe hands of the state, so it was years

before Barreiros was granted alicense to manufacture trucks. Healso wanted to make buses, but wasrefused permission to do so.The contract with Chryslerstipulated that Barreiros shouldrefrain from all activity within theautomobile sector for ten years.Consequently, in 1981 theentrepreneur reappeared in Cubawhere Fidel Castro’s government hadannounced a competition to set upan automobile industry for theisland. Barreiros’ scheme won, andhe ended his impressive businesscareer in Cuba, where he died in1992.Retirement is a word that doesn’tfigure into Thomas’ vocabulary. “I’mgoing to carry on writing because Ilearn so much in the process. Ibelieve that a person who writeslearns more than a person whoreads.” He’s working on a text aboutthe period 1524-1580: “a fascinatingera that saw the conquests of Peru,Yucatan and Colombia, among otherplaces.”We round off our all-too-briefconversation back in the drawingroom, where the photographer askshim to pose with his chin in hishand. “I knew you were going to askme to do that. Photographers lovethat pose, and I don’t know why.”Lord Thomas follows instructionsunselfconsciously, as he’s used tocameras, though he does makethings difficult for the photographerby chatting to me. “I was at theLondon Booksellers’ annual dinnerlast night, and the menu was madeup of Spanish dishes.” That’s odd, Icomment. “Not really. One of thethings that’s improved a lot aboutLondon is eating out.” Why is that?“Because there are so many Spanishcooks working in the hotels andrestaurants!”

Carlos Tejero is a journalist andeditorial coordinator ofwww.spaingourmetour.com.

10-HughThomas.qxd 14/7/07 18:42 Página 106

libros AF.qxd 12/7/07 04:40 Página 107

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 107

Comer y beber a mimanera (Eating anddrinking, my way) byManuel Vicent. Spanish.This book is Mr. Vicent’sgastronomic trip downmemory lane. Here hediscusses basic foods in alltheir glory, and ponderseverything from bread andsun-dried tomatoes tosoups and grilledvegetables, complementingevery section withentertaining personalanecdotes, interestingstories and historicalinformation, all from anindividual point of view.The last chapter isdedicated to his 11 mostfavorite recipes of all time,each influenced bysomeone he once knew.Definitely try theguacamole, chicken madras,lemon sorbet like PepitaJiménez used to make orthe white beans with chard,a dish he learned from Toñi,the woman who lookedafter his house.(Alfaguara,www.alfaguara.com,www.alfaguara.santillana.es)

33 Años en Zalacain,primer tres estrellas deEspaña (33 Years ofZalacain, the first three-starrestaurant in Spain) byBenjamín Urdiain andCustodio L. Zamarra.Spanish. The first restaurantin Spain to receive threeMichelin stars opened in1973, and since then hasbeen coming up with some ofthe most palatable recipes inthe world.This book is a compilation ofMr. Urdiain’s best dishes,accompanied by winesselected by Spain’s mostprestigious sommelier, Mr.Zamarra. The duo, which wasawarded the National Prizefor Gastronomy, suggeststruly exceptional pairings.Recommendations includeroast pheasant withmushrooms and pig’s feet inbrandy sauce cooked in aceramic casserole dish,superb with a glass of Pingus2001, and thyme cookieswith raspberry sauce, whichgo fantastically with avenerable PX 20 años.(Alianza Editorial, S.A.,www.alianzaeditorial.es)

Traditional SpanishCooking by Janet Mendel.English. Originallypublished in 1996 and nowavailable in paperback, Ms.Mendel’s book is a trulydelicious work of art,containing 270 recipes ofthe most time-honoredSpanish dishes. In additionto an extensive glossary ofterms and utensils, thebook recounts the evolutionof the Iberian Peninsula,demonstrating how thediverse inhabitants createda melting pot of cultures.This, of course, has givenrise to an absolutely stellarselection of scrumptiousand classic recipes thatcontinue to tell the story ofSpain. From gazpachocream (salmorejo cordobés)to roast suckling pig(cochinillo asado) to dustcakes (polvorones), hereyou can find the mostauthentic taste of thecountry’s age-oldspecialties.(Frances Lincoln LimitedPublishers, reception@frances-lincoln.com,www.franceslincoln.com)

LASTINGIMPRESSIONS

TextSamara Kamenecka

11-libros.qxd 14/7/07 18:50 Página 107 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

libros AF.qxd 12/7/07 04:12 Página 108

108 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 109

BOOKS

LASTINGIMPRESSIONS

prawn gelatin, saffronflowers and pistils.Additionally the bookcomes with a DVD, makingit possible to watch, step bystep, how these flavorfuldishes are made.While the text reads asseries of dictionaries, inessence it is a truly colorfulwealth of information withvibrant recipes, making fora very warm guidebook onthe ins and outs of theculinary side of botany.(Gourmandia,www.gourmandia.es,www.mugaritz.com,david@mugaritz.com)

Diccionario bótanico paracocineros (Botanicaldictionary for chefs) byAndoni Luis Aduriz andFrancois-Luc Gauthier.Spanish. A botanicalcompilation, a glossary, aguide for culinary use–thisbook is many things, butmost of all it’s the beginningof an adventure into thewonderful world of botany.After years of observation,collection and research ofall types of species of plantsand fruits, the result is thistext, a spectacular jointeffort by Mr. Aduriz, amastermind chef, and Mr.Gauthier, a leading botanist.An extensive, elementarybotanical glossary offers theA to Z on everything fromherbs, flowers and buds tostems, stalks and seeds, andentries contain short,simple definitions.There is also a culinary useguide for plants whichincludes scientific namesand in what types of dishesaround the world each isutilized. Another chapterclassifies herbs according tosmell.The recipes offered arequite impressive. Try thehorse mackerel in tanninceviche with toasted garlicand Allium flowers, freshsoy and rosemary cream orthe cold, nut soufflé andblack crab with frozen

Luces y sombras delreinado de Ferran Adrià(The light and dark sidesof Ferran Adrià´s reign)by Miguel Sen. Spanish.Personal opinion rings outloud and clear in this book,as Mr. Sen maintains thattoday’s culinary scenedoesn’t deserve all thepraise that it receives.Nowadays, Spain’s historyof traditional food is fastbecoming overshadowedand even replaced by new,innovative cooking.While chefs like Juan MariArzak and Pedro Subijanawere originally at theforefront of this“movement”, Ferran Adriàeventually took the reignsin 1992 and since then, heand his restaurant El Bullihave become truephenomenons.This book analyzes thecurrent gastronomicsituation which revolvesaround the success andmass media impact of Mr.Adrià, presenting him as abrilliant chef but also onewhose environment,influence and advances inthe field have hadcounterproductive effects.The author, who offersstrong arguments, claimsthat the sector is tooglorified and the legions ofadmirers have but one aim:to imitate the techniques

developed by Mr. Adrià andhis colleagues. This isdangerous, as so manyfollowers leads to manypoor imitators, “bound fordisaster and with noguarantees”. He goes on tocensure the “technologicalabuses” within the foodsector and the attitudes ofcertain chefs and theirthrongs of followers.The text also offersinteresting comparisonswith art, philosophy andanthropology while taking ahungry swipe at Mr. Adriàand the industry.(La Esfera de los Libros, S.L.,www.esferallibres.com)

Los aceites de oliva en lagastronomía del siglo XXI(Olive oils in 21st centurygastronomy) by variousauthors. Spanish.What do 308 millionolives, 360 thousand olivefarmers and 1,750 olivemills mean? It means youmust be Spain, the world’slargest producer andexporter of olive oil. Thesefacts, and others, can befound in what is surely themost comprehensive texton the subject today.Chapters cover the historyof oil, olive and oilvarieties, the packagingprocess, oil as a food and acondiment, advice forgetting the most out of youroil, a decalog on extravirgin olive oil, oil tasting,health benefits, the newoils, and if you can believeit, much more.But this book is, above all,about gastronomy, and itsobjective is to teach readershow to use olive oilcorrectly by offeringpractical and detailedinformation.It does so with a selectionof photographs and oliveoil based recipes from topSpanish chefs, coming from35 restaurants, many ofwhich have 2 or 3 Michelinstars or 3 Suns from theCampsa Guide. Oil cocktail0-60ºC, olive sponge cake

with oil marmalade servedwith bread ice cream andskewered owl served overcouscous with coffee andolive oil millefeuille are justa few suggestions offered byFerran Adrià, Juan MariArzak and MartínBerasategui, top chefs eagerto convert olive oil into oneof the great gastronomicalprotagonists of the 21st

century.(Editorial Everest,www.everest.es; EditorialEvergráficas, S.L.)

La cerveza y los tesorosgastronómicos españoles(Beer and other Spanishgastronomic treasures) byJosé Carlos Capel. English.From lagers to ales tostouts, this book payshomage to one of theworld’s most populardrinks, a beverage that is sodeeply-rooted in Spanishculture and withMediterranean originsdating back 3,000 years, it’simpossible to underestimateits star power.In addition to relating thestory of beer’s history, thisbook discusses the differenttypes and their topqualities, from vitamincontent to varied taste. Italso answers questions likewhere does the word beercome from? What exactly isstout? And how do thearomas of a dark beer differfrom those of a blonde one?There are also 19 recipesbased on specialties selectedfrom each of Spain’sautonomous communities,including informationabout the ingredients andwonderful photos. Eachentry, of course, contains adescription of the best beerto accompany each dishand an explanation of whyit creates a winningcombination of flavors.Raviolis stuffed withMallorcan spicy sausage and

pear served with Iberianham and citrus fruitconsummé goes best withsweet beers with a highfermentation, while musselsin mandarin brine withapple ice cream isdelectable with a lager thathas a low alcohol content ora golden blonde beer.In the land of deliciousnational cuisine and equallydelicious national brews, it’sno surprise that beer is fastbecoming a gastronomicreference.(Cerveceros de España,www.cerveceros.org;Ministerio de Agricultura,Pesca y Alimentación,www.mapa.es; Burson-Marsteller,www.bursonmarsteller.es,www.bm.com,info@bursonmarsteller.es)

11-libros.qxd 14/7/07 18:52 Página 108 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

libros AF.qxd 12/7/07 04:12 Página 108

108 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 109

BOOKS

LASTINGIMPRESSIONS

prawn gelatin, saffronflowers and pistils.Additionally the bookcomes with a DVD, makingit possible to watch, step bystep, how these flavorfuldishes are made.While the text reads asseries of dictionaries, inessence it is a truly colorfulwealth of information withvibrant recipes, making fora very warm guidebook onthe ins and outs of theculinary side of botany.(Gourmandia,www.gourmandia.es,www.mugaritz.com,david@mugaritz.com)

Diccionario bótanico paracocineros (Botanicaldictionary for chefs) byAndoni Luis Aduriz andFrancois-Luc Gauthier.Spanish. A botanicalcompilation, a glossary, aguide for culinary use–thisbook is many things, butmost of all it’s the beginningof an adventure into thewonderful world of botany.After years of observation,collection and research ofall types of species of plantsand fruits, the result is thistext, a spectacular jointeffort by Mr. Aduriz, amastermind chef, and Mr.Gauthier, a leading botanist.An extensive, elementarybotanical glossary offers theA to Z on everything fromherbs, flowers and buds tostems, stalks and seeds, andentries contain short,simple definitions.There is also a culinary useguide for plants whichincludes scientific namesand in what types of dishesaround the world each isutilized. Another chapterclassifies herbs according tosmell.The recipes offered arequite impressive. Try thehorse mackerel in tanninceviche with toasted garlicand Allium flowers, freshsoy and rosemary cream orthe cold, nut soufflé andblack crab with frozen

Luces y sombras delreinado de Ferran Adrià(The light and dark sidesof Ferran Adrià´s reign)by Miguel Sen. Spanish.Personal opinion rings outloud and clear in this book,as Mr. Sen maintains thattoday’s culinary scenedoesn’t deserve all thepraise that it receives.Nowadays, Spain’s historyof traditional food is fastbecoming overshadowedand even replaced by new,innovative cooking.While chefs like Juan MariArzak and Pedro Subijanawere originally at theforefront of this“movement”, Ferran Adriàeventually took the reignsin 1992 and since then, heand his restaurant El Bullihave become truephenomenons.This book analyzes thecurrent gastronomicsituation which revolvesaround the success andmass media impact of Mr.Adrià, presenting him as abrilliant chef but also onewhose environment,influence and advances inthe field have hadcounterproductive effects.The author, who offersstrong arguments, claimsthat the sector is tooglorified and the legions ofadmirers have but one aim:to imitate the techniques

developed by Mr. Adrià andhis colleagues. This isdangerous, as so manyfollowers leads to manypoor imitators, “bound fordisaster and with noguarantees”. He goes on tocensure the “technologicalabuses” within the foodsector and the attitudes ofcertain chefs and theirthrongs of followers.The text also offersinteresting comparisonswith art, philosophy andanthropology while taking ahungry swipe at Mr. Adriàand the industry.(La Esfera de los Libros, S.L.,www.esferallibres.com)

Los aceites de oliva en lagastronomía del siglo XXI(Olive oils in 21st centurygastronomy) by variousauthors. Spanish.What do 308 millionolives, 360 thousand olivefarmers and 1,750 olivemills mean? It means youmust be Spain, the world’slargest producer andexporter of olive oil. Thesefacts, and others, can befound in what is surely themost comprehensive texton the subject today.Chapters cover the historyof oil, olive and oilvarieties, the packagingprocess, oil as a food and acondiment, advice forgetting the most out of youroil, a decalog on extravirgin olive oil, oil tasting,health benefits, the newoils, and if you can believeit, much more.But this book is, above all,about gastronomy, and itsobjective is to teach readershow to use olive oilcorrectly by offeringpractical and detailedinformation.It does so with a selectionof photographs and oliveoil based recipes from topSpanish chefs, coming from35 restaurants, many ofwhich have 2 or 3 Michelinstars or 3 Suns from theCampsa Guide. Oil cocktail0-60ºC, olive sponge cake

with oil marmalade servedwith bread ice cream andskewered owl served overcouscous with coffee andolive oil millefeuille are justa few suggestions offered byFerran Adrià, Juan MariArzak and MartínBerasategui, top chefs eagerto convert olive oil into oneof the great gastronomicalprotagonists of the 21st

century.(Editorial Everest,www.everest.es; EditorialEvergráficas, S.L.)

La cerveza y los tesorosgastronómicos españoles(Beer and other Spanishgastronomic treasures) byJosé Carlos Capel. English.From lagers to ales tostouts, this book payshomage to one of theworld’s most populardrinks, a beverage that is sodeeply-rooted in Spanishculture and withMediterranean originsdating back 3,000 years, it’simpossible to underestimateits star power.In addition to relating thestory of beer’s history, thisbook discusses the differenttypes and their topqualities, from vitamincontent to varied taste. Italso answers questions likewhere does the word beercome from? What exactly isstout? And how do thearomas of a dark beer differfrom those of a blonde one?There are also 19 recipesbased on specialties selectedfrom each of Spain’sautonomous communities,including informationabout the ingredients andwonderful photos. Eachentry, of course, contains adescription of the best beerto accompany each dishand an explanation of whyit creates a winningcombination of flavors.Raviolis stuffed withMallorcan spicy sausage and

pear served with Iberianham and citrus fruitconsummé goes best withsweet beers with a highfermentation, while musselsin mandarin brine withapple ice cream isdelectable with a lager thathas a low alcohol content ora golden blonde beer.In the land of deliciousnational cuisine and equallydelicious national brews, it’sno surprise that beer is fastbecoming a gastronomicreference.(Cerveceros de España,www.cerveceros.org;Ministerio de Agricultura,Pesca y Alimentación,www.mapa.es; Burson-Marsteller,www.bursonmarsteller.es,www.bm.com,info@bursonmarsteller.es)

11-libros.qxd 14/7/07 18:52 Página 108 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 111110 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

Guía Peñín de los vinos deEspaña 2007 (Peñin Guideof wines in Spain 2007) byPierre ComunicaciónIntegral S.A. English,German, Spanish. Readers,meet the most extensivearchive there is on Spanishwines. With 2,540 wineries,10,190 brands reviewed and7,531 wines tasted on over1,200 pages, this is the bookon the sector in Spain mostwidely read throughout theworld.Offering up-to-dateinformation on DOs, Vinosde la Tierra and table winesaccompanied by theirbodegas and brands, inside isalso an extensive manual onwine tasting for neophytesand experts alike, revised andexpanded on every year.Having received theInternational Gourmet VoiceAward in 2005 for the BestWine Guide, if you’re lookingto drink in an extensive lookat the world of wine, checkout this truly globalreference.(Peñin Ediciones,www.grupopenin.com,comunicación@grupopenin.com)

Hoteles con encanto (Hotelswith charm) by FernandoGallardo. Spanish. AlastairSawday’s Spain: specialplaces to stay by AlastairSawday. English. Hoteles conEncanto has selected 174lodging options, from Asturiasto Zaragoza, because each hasa distinct style that makes itparticularly unique. They do,however, share top qualityfacilities and services. Ratedaccording to luxury andcomfort, each getaway has abrief description, a price list,contact information andphotos.Spain is likewise an excellentguidebook foraccommodation, highlightingeverything from boutiquehotels to country houses,valued for their character,style and warmth of welcome.From the grand and graciousto the small and intimate, thisbook highlights 90 places thatoffer extraordinary value formoney and an authenticexperience. After all, as theauthor says, “A night in aspecial place can be atransforming experience.”(Santillana EdicionesGenerales, S.L.,www.gruposantillana.com;El Pais Aguilar,www.elpaisaguilar.es; AlastairSawday Publishing Co. Ltd.,info@specialplacestostay.com,www.specialplacestostay.com)

Hoteles con viñedo 2006(Hotels with vineyards2006) by Pedro Madera.Spanish. The worlddedicated to the grape and itspeople, who live and breathwine, is its own unique wayof life. This book allowsreaders to discover that worldthrough wine tourism. Forthe traveler who enjoys adelicious glass andappreciates cultural heritageand architecture, this is yourbest guide.Excellent information,photos, prices and websitesspan 250 pages of places togo, organized by region, fromthe Hotel Golf Peralada-WineSpa in Girona to Torrent Falsin Mallorca.Watch the sunset the day ofthe harvest, enjoy a grape-based beauty treatment in thewine therapy spa, sip a newvintage over a romanticdinner or watch the sunriseduring pruning in thevineyard.(El Tercer Nombre, S.A.,Aporta Edición y Comunicación,S.L.)

Donde comer bien en lasIslas Canarias, la mejorselección de restaurantespara todos los bolsillos(Where to eat in the CanaryIslands, the best selectionof restaurants for all typesof budgets) by MarioHernández Bueno andAntonio Vacas Sentís.Spanish. This tourist guidetakes a look at more than 170restaurants throughout thearchipelago, from GranCanaria to Lanzarote, whichoffer everything fromspecialties native to theislands to exotic far easterndishes.Spots are classified accordingto the quality of food and theambiance and accompaniedby more than 300 photos.The book also boasts aglossary with food andgastronomic terms typical tothe islands as well as mapsand information on hotels,festivals, nightlife andshopping, making it a must-have for any globetrotter whois also a curious gastronome.(Editorial Everest, S.A,www.everest.es,comunicacion@everest.es;Editorial Evergráficas, S.L.)

PPROTOS indd 1 4/4/07 17:14:53

11-libros.qxd 19/7/07 17:23 Página 110

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 111110 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

Guía Peñín de los vinos deEspaña 2007 (Peñin Guideof wines in Spain 2007) byPierre ComunicaciónIntegral S.A. English,German, Spanish. Readers,meet the most extensivearchive there is on Spanishwines. With 2,540 wineries,10,190 brands reviewed and7,531 wines tasted on over1,200 pages, this is the bookon the sector in Spain mostwidely read throughout theworld.Offering up-to-dateinformation on DOs, Vinosde la Tierra and table winesaccompanied by theirbodegas and brands, inside isalso an extensive manual onwine tasting for neophytesand experts alike, revised andexpanded on every year.Having received theInternational Gourmet VoiceAward in 2005 for the BestWine Guide, if you’re lookingto drink in an extensive lookat the world of wine, checkout this truly globalreference.(Peñin Ediciones,www.grupopenin.com,comunicación@grupopenin.com)

Hoteles con encanto (Hotelswith charm) by FernandoGallardo. Spanish. AlastairSawday’s Spain: specialplaces to stay by AlastairSawday. English. Hoteles conEncanto has selected 174lodging options, from Asturiasto Zaragoza, because each hasa distinct style that makes itparticularly unique. They do,however, share top qualityfacilities and services. Ratedaccording to luxury andcomfort, each getaway has abrief description, a price list,contact information andphotos.Spain is likewise an excellentguidebook foraccommodation, highlightingeverything from boutiquehotels to country houses,valued for their character,style and warmth of welcome.From the grand and graciousto the small and intimate, thisbook highlights 90 places thatoffer extraordinary value formoney and an authenticexperience. After all, as theauthor says, “A night in aspecial place can be atransforming experience.”(Santillana EdicionesGenerales, S.L.,www.gruposantillana.com;El Pais Aguilar,www.elpaisaguilar.es; AlastairSawday Publishing Co. Ltd.,info@specialplacestostay.com,www.specialplacestostay.com)

Hoteles con viñedo 2006(Hotels with vineyards2006) by Pedro Madera.Spanish. The worlddedicated to the grape and itspeople, who live and breathwine, is its own unique wayof life. This book allowsreaders to discover that worldthrough wine tourism. Forthe traveler who enjoys adelicious glass andappreciates cultural heritageand architecture, this is yourbest guide.Excellent information,photos, prices and websitesspan 250 pages of places togo, organized by region, fromthe Hotel Golf Peralada-WineSpa in Girona to Torrent Falsin Mallorca.Watch the sunset the day ofthe harvest, enjoy a grape-based beauty treatment in thewine therapy spa, sip a newvintage over a romanticdinner or watch the sunriseduring pruning in thevineyard.(El Tercer Nombre, S.A.,Aporta Edición y Comunicación,S.L.)

Donde comer bien en lasIslas Canarias, la mejorselección de restaurantespara todos los bolsillos(Where to eat in the CanaryIslands, the best selectionof restaurants for all typesof budgets) by MarioHernández Bueno andAntonio Vacas Sentís.Spanish. This tourist guidetakes a look at more than 170restaurants throughout thearchipelago, from GranCanaria to Lanzarote, whichoffer everything fromspecialties native to theislands to exotic far easterndishes.Spots are classified accordingto the quality of food and theambiance and accompaniedby more than 300 photos.The book also boasts aglossary with food andgastronomic terms typical tothe islands as well as mapsand information on hotels,festivals, nightlife andshopping, making it a must-have for any globetrotter whois also a curious gastronome.(Editorial Everest, S.A,www.everest.es,comunicacion@everest.es;Editorial Evergráficas, S.L.)

PPROTOS indd 1 4/4/07 17:14:53

11-libros.qxd 19/7/07 17:23 Página 110

FoodProducts

Black TruffleBolets Petrás, S.C.P.Tel: (+34) 937 787 678Fax: (+34) 937 781 989info@boletspetras.comwww.boletspetras.com

Bolvent, S.L.Tel: (+34) 938 682 542Fax: (+34) 938 695 388bolvent@telefonica.net

CatesaTel: (+34) 975 374 100Fax: (+34) 975 374 215comercial@arotz.comwww.arotz.com

Conservas Carvi, S.L.Tel: (+34) 977 511 340Fax: (+34) 977 511 372elfos@elfos-fungi.comwww.conservascarvi.com

Conservas Coll, S.L.Tel: (+34) 938 668 228Fax: (+34) 938 666 125coll@rsicom.netwww.rsicom.net/coll

Laumont, S.L.Tel: (+34) 973 500 323Fax: (+34) 973 310 505laumont@laumont.netwww.laumont.es

Manjares de La Tierra, S.L.Tel/Fax: (+34) 978 780 036info@manjaresdelatierra.comwww.manjaresdelatierra.com

Prosilva, S.A.Tel: (+34) 962 660 822prosilva@telefonica.net

Trufas MaicasTel: (+34) 609 706 445Tel/Fax: (+34) 978 780 396trufasmaicas@terra.es

Truffes Garriga, S.L.Tel: (+34) 977 737 037Fax: (+34) 977 737 066consgarriga@terra.es

Urdet, S.A.Tel: (+34) 938 432 841Fax: (+34) 938 432 279

Source: Federación Nacionalde Exportadores de Trufas ySetas (Nacional Federation ofTruffle and MushroomExporters) (FENETSA)Tel: (+34) 932 093 478Fax: (+34) 932 020 740fetruse@gestionms.comwww.setasytrufas.com

The following list includes aselection of exporters. It isnot intended as acomprehensive guide and forreasons of space, we cannotlist all the companies devotedto export of the featuredproducts. The informationincluded is supplied by theindividual sources.

EXPORTERSThe Quality of

Tradition

For more than three thousandyears the olive tree has beengrown in Sierra Mágina,making olive oil an essentialproduct of the Spanish culture.Our family has been devoted tothe production of Extra VirginOlive Oil for several genera-tions, carrying all the tradition

of artisanal production fromfather to son.Our premium gourmet liquidgold is an essential ingredient inthe Mediterranean Diet wichprevents cardiovascular diseases.A natural pleasure that assuresyou a new healthy taste expe-rience.

COMOVA, S.A. Tel.: 34 91 535 12 32 Fax: 34 91 553 03 40www.comova.es E-mail: info@comova.es

114 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 115

ADINDEX

Aceites Borges Pont, S.A.Tel: (34) 973 501 212Fax: (34) 973 314 668abp.export@borges.eswww.borges.esPage: Back cover

Alimentaria ExhibitionsTel: (34) 934 521 801Fax: (34) 934 521 801info@alimentaria.comwww.alimentaria-bcn.comPage: 119

Ángel CamachoAlimentación, S.A. (Fragata)Tel: (34) 955 854 700Fax: (34) 955 850 145info@acamacho.comwww.acamacho.comPage: 9

Bodegas Chivite, S.A.Tel: (34) 948 811 000Fax: (34) 948 811 407bodegas@chivite.comwww.bodegaschivite.comPage: 115

Bodegas Franco EspañolasTel: (34) 941 251 300Fax: (34) 941 262 948francoespanolas@francoespanolas.comwww.francoespanolas.comPage: 4

Bodegas ProtosTel: (34) 983 878 011Fax: (34) 983 878 015www.bodegasprotos.comPage: 110

C.R.D.O. RuedaTel: (34) 983 868 248Fax:(34) 983 868 219comunicacion@dorueda.comwww.dorueda.comPage: Inside front cover

C.R.D.O. Vinos de MadridTel: (34) 915 348 511Fax: (34) 915 538 574aprovim@vinosdemadrid.eswww.vinosdemadrid.esPage: 101

Caja EspañaTel: (34) 987 292 694Fax: (34) 987 231 026cajaespanacomex@cajaespana.eswww.cajaespana.esPage: 12

Comova, S.L.Tel: (34) 915 351 232Fax: (34) 915 530 340info@comova.eswww.monva.esPage: 112

Conservas Artesanas Rosara,S.A.Tel: (34) 902 304 010Fax: (34) 948 690 301www.rosara.comPage: 122

D’Elitte Export Consortium,S.L.Tel: (34) 963 812 490Fax: (34) 963 812 491export@delittespain.comwww.delittespain.comPage: 5

Extenda-Agencia Andaluzade Promoción ExteriorTel: (34) 902 508 525Fax: (34) 902 508 535info@extenda.eswww.extenda.esPage: 123

F.J. Sánchez Sucesores, S.A.Tel: (34) 950 364 038Fax: (34) 950 364 422fjsanchezsa@larural.eswww.fjsanchez.comPage: Inside back cover

Federico Paternina, S.A.Tel: (34) 941 310 550Fax: (34) 941 312 778paternina@paternina.comwww.paternina.comPage: 7

Fundación del Jamón SerranoTel: (34) 915 547 045Fax: (34) 915 547 849info@fundacionserrano.orgwww.fundacionserrano.orgPage: 14

González Byass, S.A.(Tio Pepe)Tel: (34) 956 357 004Fax: (34) 956 357 044ilopez@gonzalezbyass.eswww.gonzalezbyass.esPage: 8

Grupo GourmetsTel: (34) 915 489 651Fax: (34) 915 487 133jram@gourmets.netwww.gourmets.netPage: 120

IAN – IndustriasAlimentarías de NavarraTel: (34) 948 843 365Fax: (34) 948 843 394maribel-arana@grupoian.comwww.grupoian.comPage: 114

Industrial QueseraCuquerellaTel: (34) 926 266 410Fax: (34) 926 266 413rocinante@manchanet.eswww.rocinante.esPage: 128

IPEX – Instituto dePromoción Exterior deCastilla La ManchaTel: (34) 925 286 650Fax: (34) 925 286 655consultasipex@jccm.eswww.ipex-jccm.esPage: 6

Junta de Comunidades deCastilla-La ManchaConsejería de AgriculturaTel: (34) 925 266 705Fax: (34) 925 266 756agriculturagabinete@jccm.eswww.jccm.esPage: 14

Junta de ExtremaduraConsejería de EconomíaIndustria y ComercioTel: (34) 924 010 859Fax: (34) 924 010 847www.juntaex.esPage: 125

Loreto Speciality Foods, S.L.Tel: (34) 954 113 825Fax: (34) 955 711 056info@cenlo.comwww.cenlo.comPage: 124

Oleícola Iberoliva, S.L.U.Tel: (34) 916 585 429Fax: (34) 916 508 013david@iberoliva.eswww.iberoliva.esPage: 111

Proaliment –Jesús Navarro, S.A.Tel: (34) 965 600 150Fax: (34) 965 603 012xavi@carmencita.comwww.proaliment.comPage: 13

Rafael Salgado, S.A.Tel: (34) 916 667 875Fax: (34) 916 666218export@rafaelsalgado.comwww.rafaelsalgado.comPage: 127

Salazones Serrano, S.L.Tel: (34) 965 390 849Fax: (34) 965 394 039export@salazonesserrano.comwww.salazonesserrano.comPage: 117

San MiguelTel: (34) 932 272 300Fax: (34) 932 272 398sbru@mahou-sanmiguel.comwww.sanmiguel.esPage: 113

Sánchez Romate Hnos., S.A.Tel: (34) 956 182 212Fax: (34) 956 185 276export@romate.comwww.romate.comPage: 15

Sánchez Romero CarvajalJabujo, S.A. ( 5 Jotas)Tel: (34) 917 283 880Fax: (34) 917 283 8935j@osborne.eswww.osborne.esPage: 118

Wines from Spainwww.winesfromspain.comPage: 126

13-anunciantes IN.qxd 19/7/07 13:45 Página 114 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

IAN_SG 13/7/07 16:27 P gina 1

PCHIVITE.indd 1 13/9/06 19:44:04

114 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 115

ADINDEX

Aceites Borges Pont, S.A.Tel: (34) 973 501 212Fax: (34) 973 314 668abp.export@borges.eswww.borges.esPage: Back cover

Alimentaria ExhibitionsTel: (34) 934 521 801Fax: (34) 934 521 801info@alimentaria.comwww.alimentaria-bcn.comPage: 119

Ángel CamachoAlimentación, S.A. (Fragata)Tel: (34) 955 854 700Fax: (34) 955 850 145info@acamacho.comwww.acamacho.comPage: 9

Bodegas Chivite, S.A.Tel: (34) 948 811 000Fax: (34) 948 811 407bodegas@chivite.comwww.bodegaschivite.comPage: 115

Bodegas Franco EspañolasTel: (34) 941 251 300Fax: (34) 941 262 948francoespanolas@francoespanolas.comwww.francoespanolas.comPage: 4

Bodegas ProtosTel: (34) 983 878 011Fax: (34) 983 878 015www.bodegasprotos.comPage: 110

C.R.D.O. RuedaTel: (34) 983 868 248Fax:(34) 983 868 219comunicacion@dorueda.comwww.dorueda.comPage: Inside front cover

C.R.D.O. Vinos de MadridTel: (34) 915 348 511Fax: (34) 915 538 574aprovim@vinosdemadrid.eswww.vinosdemadrid.esPage: 101

Caja EspañaTel: (34) 987 292 694Fax: (34) 987 231 026cajaespanacomex@cajaespana.eswww.cajaespana.esPage: 12

Comova, S.L.Tel: (34) 915 351 232Fax: (34) 915 530 340info@comova.eswww.monva.esPage: 112

Conservas Artesanas Rosara,S.A.Tel: (34) 902 304 010Fax: (34) 948 690 301www.rosara.comPage: 122

D’Elitte Export Consortium,S.L.Tel: (34) 963 812 490Fax: (34) 963 812 491export@delittespain.comwww.delittespain.comPage: 5

Extenda-Agencia Andaluzade Promoción ExteriorTel: (34) 902 508 525Fax: (34) 902 508 535info@extenda.eswww.extenda.esPage: 123

F.J. Sánchez Sucesores, S.A.Tel: (34) 950 364 038Fax: (34) 950 364 422fjsanchezsa@larural.eswww.fjsanchez.comPage: Inside back cover

Federico Paternina, S.A.Tel: (34) 941 310 550Fax: (34) 941 312 778paternina@paternina.comwww.paternina.comPage: 7

Fundación del Jamón SerranoTel: (34) 915 547 045Fax: (34) 915 547 849info@fundacionserrano.orgwww.fundacionserrano.orgPage: 14

González Byass, S.A.(Tio Pepe)Tel: (34) 956 357 004Fax: (34) 956 357 044ilopez@gonzalezbyass.eswww.gonzalezbyass.esPage: 8

Grupo GourmetsTel: (34) 915 489 651Fax: (34) 915 487 133jram@gourmets.netwww.gourmets.netPage: 120

IAN – IndustriasAlimentarías de NavarraTel: (34) 948 843 365Fax: (34) 948 843 394maribel-arana@grupoian.comwww.grupoian.comPage: 114

Industrial QueseraCuquerellaTel: (34) 926 266 410Fax: (34) 926 266 413rocinante@manchanet.eswww.rocinante.esPage: 128

IPEX – Instituto dePromoción Exterior deCastilla La ManchaTel: (34) 925 286 650Fax: (34) 925 286 655consultasipex@jccm.eswww.ipex-jccm.esPage: 6

Junta de Comunidades deCastilla-La ManchaConsejería de AgriculturaTel: (34) 925 266 705Fax: (34) 925 266 756agriculturagabinete@jccm.eswww.jccm.esPage: 14

Junta de ExtremaduraConsejería de EconomíaIndustria y ComercioTel: (34) 924 010 859Fax: (34) 924 010 847www.juntaex.esPage: 125

Loreto Speciality Foods, S.L.Tel: (34) 954 113 825Fax: (34) 955 711 056info@cenlo.comwww.cenlo.comPage: 124

Oleícola Iberoliva, S.L.U.Tel: (34) 916 585 429Fax: (34) 916 508 013david@iberoliva.eswww.iberoliva.esPage: 111

Proaliment –Jesús Navarro, S.A.Tel: (34) 965 600 150Fax: (34) 965 603 012xavi@carmencita.comwww.proaliment.comPage: 13

Rafael Salgado, S.A.Tel: (34) 916 667 875Fax: (34) 916 666218export@rafaelsalgado.comwww.rafaelsalgado.comPage: 127

Salazones Serrano, S.L.Tel: (34) 965 390 849Fax: (34) 965 394 039export@salazonesserrano.comwww.salazonesserrano.comPage: 117

San MiguelTel: (34) 932 272 300Fax: (34) 932 272 398sbru@mahou-sanmiguel.comwww.sanmiguel.esPage: 113

Sánchez Romate Hnos., S.A.Tel: (34) 956 182 212Fax: (34) 956 185 276export@romate.comwww.romate.comPage: 15

Sánchez Romero CarvajalJabujo, S.A. ( 5 Jotas)Tel: (34) 917 283 880Fax: (34) 917 283 8935j@osborne.eswww.osborne.esPage: 118

Wines from Spainwww.winesfromspain.comPage: 126

13-anunciantes IN.qxd 19/7/07 13:45 Página 114 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

IAN_SG 13/7/07 16:27 P gina 1

PCHIVITE.indd 1 13/9/06 19:44:04

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 117

Via del Mortaro, 19Interno 500187 RomeTel: (6) 678 29 76Fax: (6) 679 82 72roma@tourspain.eswww.turismospagnolo.it

JAPANDaini Toranomon Denki Bldg,6F-3-1-10 ToranomonMinato-Ku, Tokyo 105Tel: (3) 34 32 61 41/42Fax: (3) 34 32 61 44tokio@tourspain.eswww.spaintour.com

NETHERLANDSLaan van Meerdervoot, 8 A2517 The HagueTel: (70) 346 59 00Fax: (70) 364 98 59lahaya@tourspain.eswww.spaansverkeersbureau.nl

NORWAYKronprinsensgate, 30251 Oslo 2Tel: (47) 22 83 76 76Fax: (47) 22 83 76 71oslo@tourspain.eswww.tourspain-no.org

RUSSIATverskaya – 16/26º floor office A-601Moscow 125009Tel: (7495) 935 83 99Fax: (7495) 935 83 96moscu@tourspain.es

SINGAPORE541 Orchard Road # 09-04Liat Tower238881 SingaporeTel: (65) 67 37 30 08Fax: (65) 67 37 31 73singapore@tourspain.es

SWEDENStureplan, 6114 35 StockholmTel: (8) 611 19 92Fax: (8) 611 44 07estocolmo@tourspain.es

UNITED KINGDOM79 New Cavendish StreetLondon W1W 6XBTel: (20) 7317 20 00 Fax: (20) 7317 20 47londres@tourspain.eswww.tourspain.co.uk

UNITED STATESWater Tower PlaceSuite 915 East845 North Michigan AvenueChicago, IL 60611Tel: (312) 642 19 92Fax: (312) 642 98 17chicago@tourspain.es

8383 Wilshire Blvd. Suite 960Beverly Hills, CA 90211Tel: (323) 658 71 95Fax: (323) 658 10 61losangeles@tourspain.es

1395 Brickell AvenueSuite 1130Miami, FL 33131Tel: (305) 358 19 92Fax: (305) 358 82 23miami@tourspain.es

666 Fifth Avenue, 35th floorNew York, NY 10103Tel: (212) 265 88 22Fax: (212) 265 88 64nuevayork@tourspain.eswww.okspain.org

PARADORS CENTRALBOOKING OFFICERequena, 328013 MadridTel: (+34) 915 166 666Fax: (+34) 915 166 657/58www.parador.esreservas@parador.es

IRELAND35, Molesworth StreetDublin 2Tel: (1) 661 63 13Fax: (1) 661 01 11dublin@mcx.es

ITALYVia del Vecchio Politecnico,3-16º20121 MilanTel: (2) 78 14 00Fax: (2) 78 14 14milan@mcx.es

JAPAN3Fl, 1-3-29. RoppongiMinato-KuTokyo 106-0032Tel: (3) 55 75 04 31Fax: (3) 55 75 64 31tokio@mcx.es

MALAYSIA20th Floor. Menara Boustead69, Jalan Raja Chulan50200 Kuala LumpurP.O. Box 1185650760 Kuala LumpurTel: (3) 2148 73 00/05Fax: (3) 2141 50 06kualalumpur@mcx.es

NETHERLANDSBurg. Patijnlaan, 672585 The HagueTel: (70) 364 31 66/345 13 13Fax: (70) 360 82 74lahaya@mcx.es

NORWAYKarl Johansgate, 18 C0159 OsloTel: (23) 31 06 80Fax: (23) 31 06 86oslo@mcx.es

RUSSIAUl. Vozdvizhenka, 4/7(enter via Mokhovaya)125009 MoscowTel: (95) 783 92 81/82/83/84Fax: (95) 783 92 91moscu@mcx.es

SINGAPORE7 Temasek Boulevard# 19-03 Suntec Tower One038987 SingaporeTel: (65) 67 32 97 88Fax: (65) 67 32 97 80singapur@mcx.es

SWEDENSergels Torg, 12, 13 tr.SE-111-57 StockholmTel: (8) 24 66 10Fax: (8) 20 88 92estocolmo@mcx.es

UNITED KINGDOM66 Chiltern Street W1U 4LS LondonTel: (20) 7467 23 30Fax: (20) 7487 55 86/7224 64 09londres@mcx.es

UNITED STATES405 Lexington Av. Floor 4410174-0331 New York, NYTel: (212) 661 49 59/60Fax: (212) 972 24 94nuevayork@mcx.es

For tourist information, con-tact your nearest TOURISTOFFICE OF SPAIN

CANADA2 Bloor Street WestSuite 3402Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2Tel: (416) 961 31 31/40 79Fax: (416) 961 19 92toronto@tourspain.eswww.tourspain.toronto.on.ca

CHINATayuan Office Building 2-12-2Liangmahe Nanlu 14100600 BeijingTel: (10) 65 32 93 06/07Fax: (10) 65 32 93 05pekin@tourspain.es

DENMARKNY Ostergade 34,11101 Copenhagen KTel: (45) 33 18 66 30Fax: (45) 33 15 83 65copenhague@tourspain.eswww.spanien-turist.dk

ITALYVia Broletto, 3020121 MilanTel: (2) 72 00 46 17Fax: (2) 72 00 43 18milan@tourspain.eswww.turismospagnolo.it

116 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

If you would like to knowmore about any subject dealtwith in this magazine, exceptfor tourist information, pleasewrite to the ECONOMIC ANDCOMMERCIAL OFFICES ATTHE EMBASSIES OF SPAIN,marking the envelope REF:SPAIN GOURMETOUR.

AUSTRALIAEdgecliff Centre, Suite 408203 New South Head RoadEdgecliff NSW 2027 SydneyTel: (2) 93 62 42 12/3/4Fax: (2) 93 62 40 57sidney@mcx.es

CANADA2 Bloor St. East, Suite 1506Toronto-Ontario, M4W 1A8Tel: (416) 967 04 88Fax: (416) 968 95 47toronto@mcx.es

CHINASpain Bldg., 5th-6th FloorGongtinanlu A1-b, ChaoyangDistrict100020 BeijingTel: (10) 58 799 733Fax: (10) 58 799 734pekin@mcx.es

25th Floor, Westgate Mall1038 Nanjing Xi Road200041 ShanghaiTel: (21) 62 17 26 20Fax: (21) 62 67 77 50shanghai@mcx.es

DENMARKVesterbrogade 10, 3º1620 Copenhagen VTel: (33) 31 22 10Fax: (33) 21 33 90copenhague@mcx.es

HONG KONG2004 Tower One, Lippo Centre89 Queensway AdmiraltyHong KongTel: (852) 25 21 74 33Fax: (852) 28 45 34 48hongkong@mcx.es

SPAINOVERSEAS

14-SPAIN OVERSEAS.qxd 16/7/07 14:43 Página 116 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 117

Via del Mortaro, 19Interno 500187 RomeTel: (6) 678 29 76Fax: (6) 679 82 72roma@tourspain.eswww.turismospagnolo.it

JAPANDaini Toranomon Denki Bldg,6F-3-1-10 ToranomonMinato-Ku, Tokyo 105Tel: (3) 34 32 61 41/42Fax: (3) 34 32 61 44tokio@tourspain.eswww.spaintour.com

NETHERLANDSLaan van Meerdervoot, 8 A2517 The HagueTel: (70) 346 59 00Fax: (70) 364 98 59lahaya@tourspain.eswww.spaansverkeersbureau.nl

NORWAYKronprinsensgate, 30251 Oslo 2Tel: (47) 22 83 76 76Fax: (47) 22 83 76 71oslo@tourspain.eswww.tourspain-no.org

RUSSIATverskaya – 16/26º floor office A-601Moscow 125009Tel: (7495) 935 83 99Fax: (7495) 935 83 96moscu@tourspain.es

SINGAPORE541 Orchard Road # 09-04Liat Tower238881 SingaporeTel: (65) 67 37 30 08Fax: (65) 67 37 31 73singapore@tourspain.es

SWEDENStureplan, 6114 35 StockholmTel: (8) 611 19 92Fax: (8) 611 44 07estocolmo@tourspain.es

UNITED KINGDOM79 New Cavendish StreetLondon W1W 6XBTel: (20) 7317 20 00 Fax: (20) 7317 20 47londres@tourspain.eswww.tourspain.co.uk

UNITED STATESWater Tower PlaceSuite 915 East845 North Michigan AvenueChicago, IL 60611Tel: (312) 642 19 92Fax: (312) 642 98 17chicago@tourspain.es

8383 Wilshire Blvd. Suite 960Beverly Hills, CA 90211Tel: (323) 658 71 95Fax: (323) 658 10 61losangeles@tourspain.es

1395 Brickell AvenueSuite 1130Miami, FL 33131Tel: (305) 358 19 92Fax: (305) 358 82 23miami@tourspain.es

666 Fifth Avenue, 35th floorNew York, NY 10103Tel: (212) 265 88 22Fax: (212) 265 88 64nuevayork@tourspain.eswww.okspain.org

PARADORS CENTRALBOOKING OFFICERequena, 328013 MadridTel: (+34) 915 166 666Fax: (+34) 915 166 657/58www.parador.esreservas@parador.es

IRELAND35, Molesworth StreetDublin 2Tel: (1) 661 63 13Fax: (1) 661 01 11dublin@mcx.es

ITALYVia del Vecchio Politecnico,3-16º20121 MilanTel: (2) 78 14 00Fax: (2) 78 14 14milan@mcx.es

JAPAN3Fl, 1-3-29. RoppongiMinato-KuTokyo 106-0032Tel: (3) 55 75 04 31Fax: (3) 55 75 64 31tokio@mcx.es

MALAYSIA20th Floor. Menara Boustead69, Jalan Raja Chulan50200 Kuala LumpurP.O. Box 1185650760 Kuala LumpurTel: (3) 2148 73 00/05Fax: (3) 2141 50 06kualalumpur@mcx.es

NETHERLANDSBurg. Patijnlaan, 672585 The HagueTel: (70) 364 31 66/345 13 13Fax: (70) 360 82 74lahaya@mcx.es

NORWAYKarl Johansgate, 18 C0159 OsloTel: (23) 31 06 80Fax: (23) 31 06 86oslo@mcx.es

RUSSIAUl. Vozdvizhenka, 4/7(enter via Mokhovaya)125009 MoscowTel: (95) 783 92 81/82/83/84Fax: (95) 783 92 91moscu@mcx.es

SINGAPORE7 Temasek Boulevard# 19-03 Suntec Tower One038987 SingaporeTel: (65) 67 32 97 88Fax: (65) 67 32 97 80singapur@mcx.es

SWEDENSergels Torg, 12, 13 tr.SE-111-57 StockholmTel: (8) 24 66 10Fax: (8) 20 88 92estocolmo@mcx.es

UNITED KINGDOM66 Chiltern Street W1U 4LS LondonTel: (20) 7467 23 30Fax: (20) 7487 55 86/7224 64 09londres@mcx.es

UNITED STATES405 Lexington Av. Floor 4410174-0331 New York, NYTel: (212) 661 49 59/60Fax: (212) 972 24 94nuevayork@mcx.es

For tourist information, con-tact your nearest TOURISTOFFICE OF SPAIN

CANADA2 Bloor Street WestSuite 3402Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2Tel: (416) 961 31 31/40 79Fax: (416) 961 19 92toronto@tourspain.eswww.tourspain.toronto.on.ca

CHINATayuan Office Building 2-12-2Liangmahe Nanlu 14100600 BeijingTel: (10) 65 32 93 06/07Fax: (10) 65 32 93 05pekin@tourspain.es

DENMARKNY Ostergade 34,11101 Copenhagen KTel: (45) 33 18 66 30Fax: (45) 33 15 83 65copenhague@tourspain.eswww.spanien-turist.dk

ITALYVia Broletto, 3020121 MilanTel: (2) 72 00 46 17Fax: (2) 72 00 43 18milan@tourspain.eswww.turismospagnolo.it

116 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

If you would like to knowmore about any subject dealtwith in this magazine, exceptfor tourist information, pleasewrite to the ECONOMIC ANDCOMMERCIAL OFFICES ATTHE EMBASSIES OF SPAIN,marking the envelope REF:SPAIN GOURMETOUR.

AUSTRALIAEdgecliff Centre, Suite 408203 New South Head RoadEdgecliff NSW 2027 SydneyTel: (2) 93 62 42 12/3/4Fax: (2) 93 62 40 57sidney@mcx.es

CANADA2 Bloor St. East, Suite 1506Toronto-Ontario, M4W 1A8Tel: (416) 967 04 88Fax: (416) 968 95 47toronto@mcx.es

CHINASpain Bldg., 5th-6th FloorGongtinanlu A1-b, ChaoyangDistrict100020 BeijingTel: (10) 58 799 733Fax: (10) 58 799 734pekin@mcx.es

25th Floor, Westgate Mall1038 Nanjing Xi Road200041 ShanghaiTel: (21) 62 17 26 20Fax: (21) 62 67 77 50shanghai@mcx.es

DENMARKVesterbrogade 10, 3º1620 Copenhagen VTel: (33) 31 22 10Fax: (33) 21 33 90copenhague@mcx.es

HONG KONG2004 Tower One, Lippo Centre89 Queensway AdmiraltyHong KongTel: (852) 25 21 74 33Fax: (852) 28 45 34 48hongkong@mcx.es

SPAINOVERSEAS

14-SPAIN OVERSEAS.qxd 16/7/07 14:43 Página 116 (Negro/Process Black plancha)

128 SEPTIEMBRE-DICIEMBRE 2007 SPAIN GOURMETOUR

Celia Hernando/ICEX; Bottom:Juan M. Sanz/ICEX; JavierCampano/ICEXp. 44 From left to right: XurxoLobato/ICEX; XurxoLobato/ICEX; Juan M. Sanz/ICEXp. 45 From left to right: Juan M.Sanz/ICEX; Juan M. Sanz/ICEX;Celia Hernando/ICEXp. 46 From left to right: XurxoLobato/ICEX; Juan M.Sanz/ICEX; Blanca Berlín/ICEX;Celia Hernando/ICEXp. 47 Juan M. Sanz/ICEXp. 48 Javier Campano/ICEXp. 49 From left to right: BodegasReal; Javier Campano/ICEX; JuanM. Sanz/ICEX; Bodegas Realp. 50 From left to right: ICEX;Bodegas Real; CeliaHernando/ICEXp. 51 From left to right:Fernando Madariaga/ICEX;Carlos Tejero/ICEX; AnaEchegaray/ICEXp. 52 Carlos Navajas/ICEXp. 53 From left to right: CarlosNavajas/ICEX; Juan M.Sanz/ICEXp. 54 From left to right:Fernando Briones/ICEX; Juan M.Sanz/ICEXp. 55 Map: Javier Bellosop. 56 From left to right: BlancaBerlín/ICEX; Xurxo Lobato/ICEX;Antonio de Benito/ICEXp. 57 From left to right: CeliaHernando/ICEX; ICEX

New Wave Grillingp. 58-71 Tomás Zarza y ToyaLegido/ICEX

Black Trufflep. 72-74 Juan M. Sanz/ICEXp. 75 Miguel Ángel Pérez/ICEX;Juan M. Sanz/ICEXp. 76-77 Juan M. Sanz/ICEXp. 78 Museo de la Trufap. 79 Juan M. Sanz/ICEXp. 80 Map: Javier Bellosop. 81 Top: Juan M. Sanz/ICEX;Bottom: Arotz

Recipesp. 82-83 Tomás Zarza/ICEXp. 84-93 Toya Legido/ICEX

On the Movep. 94-97 Illustration: JavierVázquez

Piscifactoría de SierraNevadap. 98-101 Piscifactoría de SierraNevada

Spanish at Heartp. 102-106 Pablo Neustadt/ICEX

CoverJavier Zabala

Contentsp. 2 Juan M. Sanz/ICEXp. 3 From top to bottom.Illustration: Javier Zabala; JavierCampano/ICEX; ICEX; PabloNeustadt/ICEX; TomásZarza/ICEX

Colors:A Retrospective ofSpanish Wine:1982–2007p. 16-17 Illustration: JavierZabalap. 19-33 Illustrations: JavierZabala; Photos: Juan M.Sanz/ICEXp. 34 ICEXp. 35 Javier Zabala

Spanish Roots Abroadp. 36–41 Vega Sicilia

Wine Tourismp. 42 From left to right: Left:ICEX; First row: Juan M.Sanz/ICEX; Second row: CeliaHernando/ICEX; Bodegas Realp. 43 From left to right: Top:

Ctra. de Toledo, s/n

13420 Malagón (Ciudad Real) SPAIN

Tel.: +34 926 266 410 - Fax: +34 926 266 413

e-mail: rocinante@rocinante.es

www.rocinante.es

PREMIUM QUALITY SPANISH CHEESE

- THE NOBILITY OF SPAIN -

III GOURMETQUESOS CHAMPIONSHIPMADRID 2005 “AGED SHEEP’S MILK CHEESE“

FIRST PRIZE WINNER

Rocinante 2005 27/11/05 10:55 Página 1 CREDITS

15-imagenes.qxd 16/7/07 15:01 Página 128 (Negro/Process Black plancha)