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PROJECT PLAN

Shade for your deckThis article originally appeared in The Family Handyman magazine.

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You don’t have to let the blazing sun ordrippy weather drive you indoors. Thissimple covered pergola will keep you com-

fortable long after your neighbors with unsheltereddecks have given up and gone inside.

We designed it for versatility and easy construc-tion. Its 10 x 10-ft. size is large enough to accom-modate a table and chairs but small and lightenough not to require extra footings or deck fram-ing. We recommend that your deck have at least2x8 joists to ensure adequate strength. In addition,we made posts and beams from 2-by lumberbecause it’s lighter than timbers and much easier tofasten together. You can expand the length andwidth about 25 percent without going to strongercomponents. We designed the fabric cover to beeasily removable during cold months.

More DECK SHELTER ää

by Carl Hines

for your Deck

A simple shelter for you and your deck—and your burgers!

One person can build and stain theentire structure in about six days.

Shade

44 MARCH 2003 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

THE FAMILY HANDYMAN MARCH 2003 45


deck shelter

Assemble a template to position the corners

Build a 10 x 10-ft. template out of1x4s to help position the cornerposts accurately (Photo 3). Screwthis frame together so you can dis-assemble it later, and use the 1x4s totemporarily brace the posts. Shiftthe template around on your deckto help visualize the best locationfor the pergola.

Removing deck boards at thecorner post positions can be diffi-cult if they’re nailed rather thanscrewed to the joists. If possible, getunderneath the deck and knock thedeck boards up with a heavy ham-mer. If you’re lucky, the boards willpull the nails up with them. Mostlikely, however, the nails will pullthrough or split the boards, so youmay have to replace several boards.


We built our pergola from stan-dard construction cedar becauseit’s weather resistant and acceptsstain well. Other rot-resistant woodwould work as well. The total cost,including the fabric, was $1,600.Allow about three weekends forcompletion, including staining.

A pergola like this looks best ona larger deck, one at least twice thesize of the pergola. If you havedoubts, mock up the corners withbraced 2x4s; stand back and imag-ine the rest. If necessary, alter theslope of the rafters to match yourhouse. (You’ll have to recalculatethe rafter angles and lengths.)

In this article, we’ll walk youthrough the construction details,especially how to make solid con-nections to your deck. This is a sur-prisingly easy project to build; itmostly involves cutting the piecesand assembling them with nails

and screws. You should have confi-dence handling a circular saw andlevel, as well as simple carpentryexperience. You can sew the fabricyourself or have an awning shop doit for you. Apply for a building per-mit; take a sketch of your existingdeck structure as well as this planfor approval by the inspector.

1CUT all the components to size (see Fig. A, p. 47,and the Cutting List, p. 48). Nail together the fourcorner posts (parts A1 and A2) with pairs of 3-in.

hot-dipped galvanized box nails spaced 2 ft. apart. Fastenthe ridge post (part G) with four nails to the cross beam2x6 (part D1). There are three of these assemblies. Besure the post is square to the cross beam.

2POSITION five 2x2 blocks (part B2) on the 2x8 postbeam member (for the layout, see Fig. A, PostBeam Detail). Fasten each block with a couple of

nails. Be sure the blocks are flush with the bottom of thebeam. Finally, stain all the parts and set them aside to dry.

RIDGE POST

2x6 CROSS BEAM

CENTER

CARPENTER’SSQUARE

EXTENDS 5" PASTBEAM TOP

FLUSH WITHBOTTOM

OF BEAMS

BEAM

To save time, stain thewood before assembly

First cut all the parts for the pergo-la, using the Cutting List on p. 48.Next nail together the four cornerposts with pairs of 3-in. galvanizednails. Nail the three ridge posts tothree 2x6 cross beam members(Photo 1). Then nail the 2x2 x 12-1/4 in. blocks to one side of two 2x8post beam members (Photo 2). It’smuch easier and faster to stain allthe parts before assembly. Let themcompletely dry before assembling.

CORNER POSTS

3-3/4"

3-3/4"TOP

3-3/4"

3

5-3/4"

5-3/4"

1-1/4"

1

33-3/4"3-1/4"

3-1/4"

5-1/4"

5

4"

4

8"

45 (TYP.)

4

CROSS BEAM ANGLE BRACE

F

3-3/4"

3-3/4"TOP

3-3/4"

3-3/4"

5-3/4"

5-3/4"

1-1/4"

1-3/4"

3-1/4"

3-1/4"

33-3/4"3-1/4"

3-1/4"

5-1/4"

5-1/4"

4"

4"3" 3-7/8"

32"

8"

45 (TYP.)

45 (TYP.)

POST BEAM ANGLE BRACE


F

E

Story Number—Story Name—Pergola (details)Issue—Editor—Carl HinesArt Director—Hope FayeTech Art Version—3F 12/02/02

THE FAMILY HANDYMAN MARCH 2003 47

3-3/4"

3-3/4" TOP

3-3/4"

3-3/4" 5-3/4"

5-3/4"

1-1/4"1-3/4"

3-1/4"

3-1/4"33-3/4"

3-1/4"

3-1/4"

5-1/4"

5-1/4" 4"4"3" 3-7/8"

32"

8"

5"

2"

1"

1-1/2"

12"

8' 0"

7-1/4"

5"

1-1/2"

10' 0" 10' 0"

23

8"

45 (TYP.)45 (TYP.)

5

127'0"

1-1/2"

18-1/8" 21-1/16"

5' 0"

18-1/16" RIDGE BEAM IDENTICAL

CL

JOIST HANGER

CORNER POST

2x8 BLOCKING

2x4 x 3-3/4" BLOCK

EXISTING JOISTS

CORNER POST

POST BEAM DETAIL

RIDGE POST DETAIL

VERSION 2F — 10/29/02

CORNER POST� DETAIL

POST POCKET� DETAIL

RAFTER DETAIL

POST BEAM ANGLE BRACE CROSS BEAM ANGLE BRACE

16" (TYP.)

D2

D2

D2

D1

D1

D1, D2

A2

A1

A1, A2

A1, A2

A1, A2

J

JCG

G

G

GB1, B2

F

F

F

F

E

E

E

E

B1

B1

B2

B2

B2

A2

H H

H

H

H

FIG. A SHADING STRUCTURE DETAILS(See p. 48 for dimensions)

Hardware1 lb. of 3" corrosion-resistant deck screws

2 lbs. of 3" (10d) galvanized box nails

Thirty-four 3/8 x 4" galvanized lag screws

Sixteen 3/8 x 5" galvanized lag screws

Fifty 3/8" galvanized flat washers


Build the pockets for the four cornerposts

Fasten blocking between the deckjoists to support each corner post.Use the template to accuratelylocate the edges of the corner posts(Fig. B, p. 50). Mark the position ofthe 2x4 center that extends downbetween the deck joists (Fig. B).Make sure the 2x4 doesn’t land ontop of a joist. The one we show sitsagainst the side of a joist.

Be sure to use joist hangers toensure the strength of the blocksyou’re adding (Photo 5). It can betricky finding room to swing ahammer to drive the hanger nails.In some situations, you may havebetter luck driving screws.Although the 2x4 center slides intothe pocket, the post’s 2x6 compo-nents sit on top of the joist blocks(Photo 6), which support theweight of the pergola.


deck shelter

3CUT two pieces of1x4, each 10 ft.long, and two

pieces 9 ft. 5 in. long.Butt the shorter piecesbetween the 10-footersand drive 1-1/4 in.screws through cornerblocks to connect thesides. Tack one side ofthe frame to the deckand then adjust theframe until the two diag-onals are the samelength. Fasten a 1x4angled brace to hold theframe rigid and square.

Cutting List

KEY QTY. SIZE & DESCRIPTIONA1 8 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 96" corner posts

A2 4 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 114-1/4" corner posts; cut to pattern(see Corner Post Detail)

B1 4 1-1/2" x 7-1/4" x 144" post beams; cut both ends to pattern(see Post Beam Detail)

B2 10 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 12-1/4" blocks; sandwich set of fivebetween 2x8 post beam members (see Post Beam Detailfor layout)

C 1 1-1/2" x 7-1/4" x 144" ridge beam; cut to same pattern aspost beam

D1 6 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 111" cross beams

D2 6 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" cross beam blocks; bolt to postbeam (see Post Beam Detail for layout)

E 4 1-1/2" x 7-1/4" x 36" post beam angle braces; cut to pattern(see Post Beam Angle Brace)

F 4 1-1/2" x 7-1/4" x 36" cross beam angle braces; cut to pattern(see Cross Beam Angle Brace)

G 3 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 35-1/2" ridge posts; cut notch at top (seeRidge Post Detail)

H 20 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 84" rafters; cut to pattern (see Rafter Detail)

J 10 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 142" purlins; cut 30-degree angle at bothends

Buyer’s GuideOur awning fabric is from Sunbrella (800-640-3539, www.outdoorfabrics.com). The company will send sample swatchesfor $1 each.The outdoor furniture shown is availablefrom Smith & Hawken (800-940-1170). The grill is available from Weber (800-446-1071).

10'

CORNERBLOCK

10'

ANGLE BRACE

DIAGONALS

PENCIL MARKS INDICATEEDGE OF TEMPLATE

Assemble the pergola

Drop the posts into the pockets anddrive four 3-in. nails to secure eachof them to the blocking (Photo 7).Don’t worry if they seem wobbly;the rest of the pergola structure willstiffen them. Finally, plumb eachpost in both directions and securewith two temporary braces. Use the1x4 salvaged from the template.Screw short pieces of 2x4 to thedeck to anchor the bottom of thebraces.

Next to go up are the two 2x8sthat make up each post beam(Photo 8). Screw a temporary hold-er to one of the posts if you do thisby yourself. A helper on a secondladder makes the job quicker.

Use galvanized lag screws withflat washers to fasten the crossbeam blocks to the side of thebeams (Photo 9). Strength is criti-cal here, so don’t use deck screws or nails.

4REMOVEenough deckboards to

access the joists atthe corners of thetemplate. Positionthe template exactlyand mark the out-side edge of the cor-ner on the deckboards and joists.Then mark the posi-tion of the 2x4 postcenter (see Fig. B).

Story Number—Story Name—Pergola (deck detail)Issue—Editor—Carl HinesArt Director—Hope FayeTech Art Version—1F 12/09/02

2x8 TREATED BLOCKING

EXISTING JOISTS

TEMPLATEPENCILLINE

TEMPLATEPENCIL LINE

TEMPLATE

TEMPLATE

CORNER POST

DECK BOARDS

2x4 CENTER

5LAY OUT the position of the center 2x4 and nail2x8 joist hangers on each side of it. Nail or screwthe 2x8 supports in place. 6CUT a 3-3/4 in. long treated 2x4 block and

screw it between the joist blocks to com-plete the support.

deck shelter



PENCIL MARK

PENCIL MARK (EDGE OF TEMPLATE)

PENCIL MARK

TEMPLATEPENCIL LINE

1"

3-3/4"

3-3/4" x 1-3/4" POCKET FOR

2x4 POSTCENTER

3" DECKSCREWS

PILOTHOLES

PENCIL MARKS INDICATEEDGE OF TEMPLATE

1-1/2"

FIG. BPOST SUPPORTDETAIL

SCREWS


Fasten the double 2x6 crossbeams (Photo 10) into both theblock and the beam (Photo 10

detail). Drill clearance holes toavoid splitting, and drive 3-in. deckscrews. Drive two 3/8 x 4-in. galva-nized lag screws through the outer2x6 and the ridge post into theinner 2x6. This securely pins theridge posts to both 2x6s.

The angle braces at each corner(Photo 11) slide between the twomembers that make up the beams.If the space is too tight for the braceto slide in, wedge open the space a bit. After the brace is in, removethe wedge. Make sure the bottomsof the two braces are even witheach other at each corner. Drillclearance and pilot holes, and drivelag screws to secure them (seePhoto 11 for sizes and location).Now you can remove the tempo-rary corner braces.

7DROP the four posts into thejoist pockets. Secure withfour nails or deck screws.

Plumb each post with a carpenter’slevel and brace in both directions.

8SET the 2x8 beam with the2x2 blocks onto the post’s2x6 shoulder and nail into

place with four 3-in. nails. Positionthe second 2x8 and nail it into theposts. Finally drive two nailsthrough the second 2x8 and intoeach 2x2 block.

deck shelter


1x4 BRACES

BLOCKSTEMPORARILY

SCREWED TO DECK

2x4 CENTER

3" NAILS

TEMPORARYHOLDER

SCREWS


Lay out the rafter positions onboth sides of the ridge beam beforesetting it in place. It’s a lot easier todo this while standing on theground than on a ladder. Now setthe ridge into the three ridge postslots (Photo 12).

Work from one end to the othersetting the rafters (Photo 13). Makesure that each rafter sits 1-1/2 in.below the top of the ridge beam.Fasten all the rafters to the ridgebeam first, then go back and fastenthem to the post beams.

Starting at the ridge, mark out 16-in. spacing for the purlins. Youdon’t need to mark out all therafters, just both end rafters and thecenter one. Position the 2x2s on thelayout marks and drive a single 3-in. galvanized nail through thepurlin into both the end rafters andthe center one (Photo 14). Nexthave a helper look down the lengthof the purlin from one end andsight it straight as you nail off thepurlin at the rest of the rafters.

Install the canvas cover

We used a fabric manufacturedspecifically for awnings (see

Buyer’s Guide, p. 48). It’s UV stableand rot-proof. Canvas is a lessexpensive choice, but it’s not as longlasting. You’ll have to sew four

10LIFT the 2x6 cross beam and ridge post into place and drivethree screws at each end (see detail). Set the second 2x6and fasten it at both ends. Predrill and drive two 3/8 x 4-in.

lag screws through the outer 2x6 into the ridge post.


deck shelter5-1/2"BLOCKS

4" LAGSCREWS

3/8" CLEARANCE HOLE

RIDGE POST

TEMPORARYSUPPORT

BLOCK

ANGLED SCREWS

2x2 BLOCK

9POSITION thethree 2x2 crossbeam blocks

(part D2) to theinside of the beam.See Fig. A, PostBeam Detail. Drill3/8-in. clearanceholes through the2x2s and 1/4-in. pilotholes into the beam;drive 3/8-in. by 4-in.galvanized lagscrews.

12SLIDE the ridge beam into the post notches and cen-ter it end to end. Drill clearance holes and drive three3-in. deck screws through each post into the beam.

strips together to get the 12-ft.width. The sewing takes someexperience and a heavy-dutysewing machine. If necessary, havea tent and awning company makethe cover for you.

The fabric cover is 144 in. wideby 174 in. long with pipe pocketssewn in at the two bottom edges(Fig. C, p. 58). Make and attachthree 1-in. wide by 10-in. long fab-ric straps on each side centered onthe double rafters. Sew on Velcrostrips to finish them.

Fabricate a 12-ft. length of 1/2-in.EMT conduit (metal electric con-duit). It comes in 10-ft. pieces, soyou’ll need to cut it (use a hacksaw)to add a 2-ft. piece. Connect thetwo sections with a 12-in. piece of5/8-in. diameter wood dowel. Applypolyurethane glue or constructionadhesive to each end of the dowel,then slide half of it into each pieceof pipe. Let the glue set overnight.

Now slide the pipes into the com-pleted awning cover. The pipesmake it easy to roll up the fabric.

13SET a rafteragainst the ridgebeam, holding it

1-1/2 in. below the top edge.Drive two deck screws to fastenit. Fasten the bottom end of therafter to the 2x2 block with twoscrews. Continue until all therafters are in place.


deck shelter

CLEARANCEHOLES

TEMPORARYBRACE

3/8" x 4" LAG SCREWS

CLEARANCEHOLES

3/8" x 5" LAG

SCREWS

DOUBLERAFTER

1-1/2”

11SLIDE the top end of theangle brace between thebeam’s two components.

Drill clearance and pilot holes anddrive lag screws to secure them.Remove the temporary braces.


SECTION VIEW ATFRONT RIGHT CORNER

1"10"

12'0"

14'6"

1/2" EMT PIPE

1/2" EMT PIPE

1/2" EMT PIPE

1" STRAPS CENTERED ON DOUBLE RAFTERS

DOUBLERAFTERS

DOUBLERAFTERS

RIDGE BEAM

PURLIN

PURLINS

STRAP

STRAPS

3-3/4"

3-3/4"TOP

3-3/4"

3-3/4"

5-3/4"

5-3/4"

1-1/4"

1-3/4"

3-1/4"

3-1/4"

33-3/4"3-1/4"

3-1/4"

5-1/4"

5-1/4"

4"

4"3" 3-7/8"

32"

8"

45 (TYP.)

45 (TYP.)

POST BEAM ANGLE BRACE


F

E

Story Number—Story Name—Pergola (details)Issue—Editor—Carl HinesArt Director—Hope FayeTech Art Version—3F 12/02/02

Start at one edge and roll it up with the finished side of the fabricshowing.

We used 3-1/2 in. galvanizednails for the strap anchors (Photo

15 detail). Drill a clearance holethrough one of the rafters; slide thenail through until its tip hits thesecond rafter. Then hammer it in.The Velcro strap wraps around thenail and sticks to itself.

Working from a stepladder, setthe rolled-up cover on top of therafters along one lower edge. Unrollit up the rafters to the top, thendown the other side (Photo 15).


15 UNROLL thecanvas over thetop of the

purlins. Wrap the strapsover the partially driven nailand fasten it back on itselfwith the Velcro.

deck shelter

Art Direction • HOPE FAYPhotography • BILL ZUEHLKETechnical Art • EUGENE THOMPSON

FIG. C CANVAS COVER

14 MAKE layout lines every 16 in. along thetop edge of the rafters, starting at theridge. Center the 2x2 purlins over the

rafters. Make sure they're on the layout lines anddrive a 3-in. galvanized nail through the purlin intoeach rafter.

3" NAIL

PURLIN

VELCROSTRAP

3-1/2"GALVANIZED.

NAIL

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