Two-level Craftsman storage shed - Reader's...

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PROJECT PLAN

Two-level Craftsmanstorage shed

This article originally appeared in The Family Handyman magazine. For subscription information, visit www.familyhandyman.com

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Engineered forsimplicity—do-it-yourselftrusses and completeframing plans.

Who says a yardshed can’t bebeautiful?This shed

would grace any yard because it’swell designed and built to last. Thefoundation is concrete, and the 2x4walls are skinned with 1/2-in. ply-wood followed by cedar siding. Andthe roof is factory-painted steelscrewed to heavy-duty trusses thatyou make yourself.

This solid shed has a 10 x 10-ft.lower storage area, and nearly 17 x 4ft. of storage in the attic. This long,narrow space above is great for stor-ing an extension ladder, planks, akayak, a canoe—or all the above!

I’m not gonna sugarcoat this andtell you it’ll only take a week tobuild. It’s obvious from the detailsthat this backyard project can takefour to five full weeks of work. But when you’re finished, you’llhave something to be proud of.

You can easily break the projectdown into manageable steps andpick up where you left off at a later

date. In fact, we’ve divided this arti-cle into two parts, with Part 2 com-ing in July/August.

This article (Part 1) covers settingthe forms, pouring the slab, andbuilding the basic wall and roofframing. These framing techniquesapply to any wood framing project,even a big project like building agarage or an addition. We’ll walkyou through the step-by-step fram-ing process, plus the drawings willgive you accurate measurements touse as a cutting guide.

If you’ve built a deck before, youcan tackle this job. Beyond basiccarpentry tools like a circular saw,level, tape measure, drill and screwgun, you’ll need some concrete fin-ishing tools and 8-ft. and 10-ft.stepladders. A pneumatic stapler isa great help but not essential.

A grand project like this is natu-rally going to cost more than a shedkit available at home centers. You’llspend about $460 for concrete andforms plus $3,500 for materials,including the metal roofing.

Two-level

by David Radtke

Craftsmanstorage shed

Foundation and framingPart 1

32 JUNE 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

n 10 x 10-ft. lower-level storage

n Spacious 4 x 17-ft. attic storage

n Wide double-door access

n Covered porch workspace

n Low-maintenance finish

n Bright interior

n Steel brackets for no-split fastening

What you get:

Huge attic storage

Look for Part 2 in the July/August issue

THE FAMILY HANDYMAN JUNE 2001 33


Our site sloped 5 in. fromfront to back. If yours slopes

more than that, you may need to dosome excavating and grading.

Remove the turf from the site(this is a must) plus at least 6 in.around the perimeter to allow forfastening the forms. Use 2x8 formsand screw them into 1x3 stakes thatyou can buy at a lumberyard.

Start by cutting the forms tolength, then set them along one sideand square the other sides to it.Drive a support stake 10 in. into theground about every 4 ft. and nearevery corner. Measure the diagonalsof the forms to check squarenessand use a 4-ft. level to ensure thatthe forms are perfectly level. Cut offall the stakes even with the tops ofthe forms. This fussing over main-taining square and level is impor-tant: If your foundation is off, you’llfight a host of problems all the way to the roof. See Fig. A for slab details.

Calculate the volume of concreteyou’ll need and order an extra 1/4cu. yd. for insurance. For our 10 x18-ft. slab, we ordered 3 cu. yds. ofconcrete two days ahead of time. Besure you’ve got at least two strongpeople to help when the concrete

2POUR the concrete andscreed it level with the forms.Be sure to have your anchor

bolts and post brackets ready to setinto the fresh concrete. Mark thelocations on your forms. After theanchor bolts and post bases arepositioned, finish the surface with asteel trowel. Cover the concretewith plastic for three days.

1REMOVE all vegetation within6 in. of the slab site. Roughlylevel the soil and dig the

perimeter to a 7-in. depth (Fig. A).Set the 2x8 forms straight, squareand level with 1x3 stakes. Coat theinside surface of the forms withvegetable oil so they’ll be easier toremove. Lay two levels of No. 4rebar around the perimeter (Fig. A).

1"

0"

48"

24"

72"

85-1

/2"

98-1

/2" 24-1/4"

43-3/4"

10'

2x6 STRUT

49"

22-1/2°

10'

2x6 CHORD

2x6 CHORD

2x4 RAFTER, 102-1/2" LONG


2x4 STRUT

GUSSET 4" x 8"

GUSSET 3-1/2" x 8"

GUSSET 3-1/2" x 8"

GUSSET 6" x 10"

GUSSET 3-1/2" x 6"

GUSSET 4" x 4-1/2"

GUSSET

1/2" PLYWOOD GUSSETS (INSIDE FACE ONLY OF GABLE TRUSSES)

1/2" PLYWOOD GUSSETS (BOTH SIDES OF COMMON TRUSSES)

GUSSET

10"

6"

2"

2x4 HEADER

2x4 QUEEN POST

1 x 3 PURLIN POSITION (TYPICAL)

7-3/4"

90°

45°

45° 1"

18'

10'

30"

6"

4x4 POST ANCHOR

19-1/4"

19-1/4"

ANCHOR BOLT, WASHER AND NUT

10' (SIDE WALL)

15"

15"

9' 5"

17"

6-1/2" TO 7"

12"

NO. 4 REBARS

17"

POURED CONCRETE SLAB

2x4 PLATES, FASTEN WITH 2-1/2" TAPCON SCREWS AND CONSTRUCTION ADHESIVE

2x4 SILL

SECTION AT EDGE

TRUSSES and SLAB — Version 4F 4/10/01

Pour your slab on a level sitearrives. If it looks like rain thatmorning, call and cancel the con-crete delivery, then reschedule.

If possible, pick a clear 75-degreeday to pour the concrete. The slabwill turn out better if it’s not toohot, and you won’t wear yourselfout from heat exposure. Wear eyeprotection, gloves and boots.Concrete can burn your skin withtoo much contact, so rinse yourskin with water immediately if itsplashes on you.

Before you pour, lay No. 4 rebar(Photo 1) around the perimeter ofthe slab to reinforce the edges. Liftthe rebar to center it in the slab. Setyour anchor bolts and the postanchors nearby so you won’t forgetto push them into the wet concrete.For more details on pouring andfinishing concrete, see “Building aConcrete Pad,” July/Aug. ’96, p. 80,or “Pour a Concrete Sidewalk,” May ’00, p. 96. (To order copies, see p. 108.) Note: If concrete work is not youridea of fun, you can have a pro dothe job for you, but expect to payabout $1,400. If you do it yourself,you’ll only have to pay about $375for the concrete plus $85 for rebar,anchor bolts and forms.

FIG. A SLAB LAYOUT

Craftsman Storage Shed

NO. 4 STEELREBAR

1x3STAKES

2x4SCREED


1/2" PLYWOOD FLOOR

1/2" PLYWOOD TRUSS FLOOR

STEEL ANCHOR

2x4 CLEAT

2x4 DIAGONAL BRACE

1x3 PURLINS

TRUSS CHORD

DOUBLE 2x6 BEAM

DOUBLE 2x6 BEAMS

DOUBLE 2x6 JOIST HANGER2x4 SUPPORTS

1/2" PLYWOOD SHEATHING

1/2" PLYWOOD SHEATHING EXTENDS OVER BEAM

1/2" PLYWOOD SHEATHING (TYPICAL)

1/2" PLYWOOD SHEATHING

2x4 FRAMING

83"

17" SQUARE

28" METAL POST BASE

CONCRETE SLAB; SEE FIG. A

TOP PLATE

TRUSS

2x6 BLOCKING; TRIM TOP AT 45 DEGREES

15" OVERHANG (SEE TEXT)

GABLE TRUSS; SEE FIG. D

GABLE TRUSS; SEE FIG. D

COMMON TRUSSES, 24" O.C.; SEE FIG. C

4x4 PRESSURE- TREATED POST

STAGGER BEAM ENDS

POST BRACKET

POST BRACKET (BEND FLANGE DOWN)

LINE UP OUTER CORNER OF POST AND BEAMS

SEE FIGS. E,F,G FOR WALL FRAMING

8-3/4"

CL

1

DETAIL 1DETAIL 2

DETAIL 3

3

2

Story Number— Story Name—Art/craft shed Issue— Editor—Dave Radtke Art Director—Bob Ungar Tech Art Version—3F4/9/01

Craftsman Storage ShedFIG. B FRAMING/SHEATHING


COMMON TRUSS

Once the slab has cured for acouple of days, you’ll be

champing at the bit to get the wallsbuilt. Resist the urge and build thetrusses first while you’ve got a clean,flat slab as a workspace. Study Figs.

C and D for the truss dimensionsand refer to the Materials List on p.37 for the materials you’ll need.Don’t build the trusses on a surfacethat isn’t flat; irregularities canthrow off the trusses just enough to cause headaches later. FollowPhotos 3 – 5 for instructions. Note: Rent a 1/2-in. crown pneu-matic stapler to fasten the gussets tothe trusses, and rent a 1/4-in. crownstapler to fasten the gable shingles.Use a minimum of six staples pergusset (and don’t forget the con-struction adhesive). The pneumaticstapler will really speed up theprocess. You’ll probably save a fewhours on this phase of the project. If you choose to hand-nail the gussets, use 6d common nails (eight nails per gusset).

Establish a front and back side for

1"

0"

48"

24"

72"

85-1

/2"

98-1

/2" 24-1/4"

43-3/4"

10'

2x6 STRUT

49"

22-1/2°

10'

2x6 CHORD

2x6 CHORD



2x4 STRUT

GUSSET 4" x 8"

GUSSET 3-1/2" x 8"

GUSSET 3-1/2" x 8"

GUSSET 6" x 10"

GUSSET 3-1/2" x 6"

GUSSET 4" x 4-1/2"

GUSSET



GUSSET

10"

6"

2"

2x4 HEADER

2x4 QUEEN POST


7-3/4"

90°

45°

45° 1"

18'

10'

30"

6"

4x4 POST ANCHOR

19-1/4"

19-1/4"


10' (SIDE WALL)

15"

15"

9' 5"

17"

6-1/2" TO 7"

12"

NO. 4 REBARS

17"



2x4 SILL

SECTION AT EDGE


3RIP strips from 1/2-in. CDXplywood to make the gussetsfor the trusses. Cut them into

the shapes shown in Figs. C and D.Also cut the members for the firstcommon truss.

4GLUE and staple the gussets to the common truss members usingconstruction adhesive and a pneumatic stapler loaded with 1-1/8 in.staples. Once you’ve finished stapling the gussets to one side, flip the

truss and attach the gussets to the other side. When this truss is completed,mark one side “front” and the other “back” to maintain consistency in thetrusses. Note: The two gable end trusses (Fig. D) have gussets on the innersides only. Measure the struts of this truss and cut the same length for theother trusses.

FIG. C

1/2" PLYWOODGUSSETS

TOP OFTRUSS

CONSTRUCTIONADHESIVE

2x6CHORD

Build strong roof trussesCraftsman Storage Shed


1"

0"

48"

24"

72"

85-1

/2"

98-1

/2" 24-1/4"

43-3/4"

10'

2x6 STRUT

49"

22-1/2°

10'

2x6 CHORD

2x6 CHORD



2x4 STRUT

GUSSET 4" x 8"

GUSSET 3-1/2" x 8"

GUSSET 3-1/2" x 8"

GUSSET 6" x 10"

GUSSET 3-1/2" x 6"

GUSSET 4" x 4-1/2"

GUSSET



GUSSET

10"

6"

2"

2x4 HEADER

2x4 QUEEN POST


7-3/4"

90°

45°

45° 1"

18'

10'

30"

6"

4x4 POST ANCHOR

19-1/4"

19-1/4"


10' (SIDE WALL)

15"

15"

9' 5"

17"

6-1/2" TO 7"

12"

NO. 4 REBARS

17"



2x4 SILL

SECTION AT EDGE


5USE your first truss as the “pattern truss” for the other common andgable end trusses. Screw 2x4 blocks to the pattern truss as shown,then lay each truss piece over the pattern truss to ensure they’re all a

uniform size and shape. Remember: Mark front and back sides for each trussto maintain consistency. Assemble all the trusses and stack them flat andaway from the slab.

Materials ListITEM QTY.Trusses:1/2-in. CDX plywood 1 sheet

2x4 x 10’ spf (spruce, pine or fir) 40

2x6 x 10’ spf 15Purlins:1x3 x 10’ spf 12

1x3 x 8’ spf 12Walls, beams, posts and plates:2x4 x 7’ spf 38

2x4 x 8’ spf 4

4x4 x 14’ spf 1

2x6 x 10’ spf 1

2x6 x 7’ spf 1

2x4 x 10’ treated 4

2x4 x 10’ spf 4Wall sheathing and loft floor:1/2-in. CDX plywood 15Brackets and fly rafters:4x4 x 10’ cedar 2

2x8 x 10’ cedar 4

1x2 x 10’ cedar 4Roofing:3-ft. wide x 102” steel roof panels 14

10-ft. 12/12 pitch steel roof caps 2

Roofing panels can be ordered at most home centers.Siding:No. 2 cedar shingles

for gable ends 4 bundles

1/2” x 5-1/2 “ cedar siding 800 ln. ft. (4-1/2” exposure)

15-lb. and 30-lb. roofing felt 1 roll of each Trim (corners, windows and doors, gables):2x6 x 10’ cedar 2

2x8 x 12’ cedar 2

1x4 x 10’ cedar 7

1x8 x 8’ (beam wraps and ceiling) 5

5/4 x 6 x 8’ cedar (ripped for door and window trim) 18

2x4 x 8’ cedar windowsill 1Windows:1x6 x 8’ cedar window jamb and stop 6

22” x 41-1/4” window barn sash 6Doors:36” solid-core birch exterior doors 2

22” x 29” window barn sash 2

1/2” x 5-1/2” x 8’ cedar door facing 2

1/2” x 5-1/2” x 7’ cedar door facing 6

1x6 x 7’ pine door jambs 3

Pine shims 4 pkgs.Front posts (except 4x4s):1x12 x 10’ cedar tapered post wrap 4

1x3 x 8’ cedar post trim 2

2x8 x10’ cedar base caps (miter to fit) 2

2x4 x 10’ cedar column capitals 1

2x4 x 10’ treated column base framing 1

2x4 x 7’ spf framing for column bases 5

1/2” exterior treated plywood 2

Wire stucco mesh 30 sq. ft.

Roofing felt (see siding)

Cultured stone column façade 30 sq. ft.

Dry mortar mix (60-lb. bag) 2

each truss when you use the patternmethod described in Photo 5. Thiswill ensure that your trusses are uni-form along the whole structure andthat your metal roof won’t kinkbecause of dips from one truss to

the next. After the trusses are built,find a spot away from the slab to setthem flat while you build the walls.


More CRAFTSMAN SHED ää

2x4 BLOCKS FOR POSITIONING

FINISHEDTRUSS ASPATTERN

Materials List continued on p. 50

FIG. D GABLE TRUSS


It’s best to snap lines on the slabthat correspond to the inside

edges of each wall, then cut yoursole (bottom) plate and your topplate from 10-ft. 2x4s. To use thechalk line, just measure in 3-1/2 in.from the edge of the slab near theend of each wall section, pull achalk line tight over your marksand snap it. You’ll appreciate thelines because they’ll help you accu-rately position the walls, even ifyou have a straight slab.

Follow the steps in Photos 6 and

7 for drilling holes in the sole platefor the anchor bolts. Sometimesyou’ll find that an anchor bolt fallsright under a stud location. If thishappens, you can move the studoff the layout as long as it doesn’taffect window or door placement.If it does, simply cut off the anchorbolt flush with the slab and install adrive-in-type concrete anchor afterthe wall is positioned.

Line up the top and bottom platesto mark your stud locations alongwith door and window header

6SNAP lines onto your slab 3-1/2 in. in from the edge ofthe slab to establish the lay-

out for the walls. Cut the pressure-treated sole plates for the 2x4 wallassemblies, then set them inside theline and measure the anchor boltdistance as shown.

7TRANSFER the measurementfor the bolt location onto thetopside of the sole plates.

Drill 1/2-in. diameter holes with aspade bit so the bolts will slidethrough easily after the wall is builtand positioned. Tip: Set a blockunder the plate to prevent your drillbit from hitting the slab as you penetrate the other side.

Frame the walls and tip them up

19-1/4"

10' (OVERALL)

74-1/2" WIDE x 82" HIGH

ROUGH OPENING

9' 5" (OVERALL)10' (OVERALL)

9' 5" (OVERALL)

88-1/2"

88-1/2"

DOUBLE 2x4 HEADER

16" (TYP.)

16"

16" SPACING (TYPICAL)

BACK

15-1/4"

35"

46-1/2"36-3/4"

36-3/4"

43-1/2"

C

11-3/4"

L

CLCL

CL

TIE PLATE

TIE PLATE

2x4s (TYP.)

2x4s (TYP.)

7' STUDS (TYP.)

7' STUDS (TYP.)

TIE PLATE

CUT OUT SILL AFTER INSTALLING WALLS

2x4s (TYP.)

DOUBLED 2x6 HEADER

2x4

3-1/2"

3-1/2"

3-1/2"

4-1/2"

8-3/4"

DOUBLE 2x6 JOIST HANGER

1/2" SHEATHING

10"

KING STUD

TRIMMER STUD

WALLS — Version 2F 410/01

19-1/4"

10' (OVERALL)

74-1/2" WIDE x 82" HIGH

ROUGH OPENING


9' 5" (OVERALL)

88-1/2"

88-1/2"

DOUBLE 2x4 HEADER

16" (TYP.)

16"


BACK

15-1/4"

35"

46-1/2"36-3/4"

36-3/4"

43-1/2"

C

11-3/4"

L

CLCL

CL

TIE PLATE

TIE PLATE

2x4s (TYP.)

2x4s (TYP.)

7' STUDS (TYP.)

7' STUDS (TYP.)

TIE PLATE


2x4s (TYP.)

DOUBLED 2x6 HEADER

2x4

3-1/2"

3-1/2"

3-1/2"

4-1/2"

8-3/4"


1/2" SHEATHING

10"

KING STUD

TRIMMER STUD


openings. Marking both plates at the same time will make layout mis-takes less likely. Follow the walldimensions in Figs. E, F and G. Buildthe back wall first and tip it up andbrace it while you frame the side

FIG. E SIDE WALL

FIG. F FRONT WALL

TRANSFERMEASUREMENT

FROM HERE

ANCHORBOLT

SNAPPEDLAYOUT

LINE

SOLEPLATE



8NAIL each 2x4 wall assembly together using two16d cement-coated nails at each connection. Nailthe studs to the sole plate and the top plate. Do not

nail the tie plates (2x4s above the top plate) to the topplates at this time. See Fig. E for window opening detailsto make your header and trimmers and cripple studs. Note that the side walls fit against the back wall.

Lay out and build each wall section

9TIP the walls up and drop them over the concrete anchors. Start with the back wallfirst. Temporarily brace the walls to keep

them from falling in the wind, and tack the cornerstogether with 16d nails. Don’t drive the nails homeuntil the plates are fastened and you’re sure the topplates line up. Hammer the top plate from above ifthe tops of the walls aren’t flush.

19-1/4"

10' (OVERALL)

74-1/2" WIDE x 82" HIGH

ROUGH OPENING


9' 5" (OVERALL)

88-1/2"

88-1/2"

DOUBLE 2x4 HEADER

16" (TYP.)

16"


BACK

15-1/4"

35"

46-1/2"36-3/4"

36-3/4"

43-1/2"

C

11-3/4"

L

CLCL

CL

TIE PLATE

TIE PLATE

2x4s (TYP.)

2x4s (TYP.)

7' STUDS (TYP.)

7' STUDS (TYP.)

TIE PLATE


2x4s (TYP.)

DOUBLED 2x6 HEADER

2x4

3-1/2"

3-1/2"

3-1/2"

4-1/2"

8-3/4"


1/2" SHEATHING

10"

KING STUD

TRIMMER STUD


10MAKE SUREthe walls line upwith the chalk

lines you snapped earlieron your slab. Tighten thenuts on the anchor bolts.Align the corners and nailthe wall sections togetherwith 16d nails.

walls. The stud spacing is measuredspecifically to accommodate 4- or 8-ft. wide sheathing plywood so theseams will always land on a stud.

Make the window headers fromtwo lengths of 2x6. Cut and nail(use 16d sinker nails) these piecestogether, then drop them betweenthe king studs. Nail them to the kingstuds and the top plate. Next nailthe trimmer stud to the king studand then install the sill and the crip-ple studs (Photo 8) below the sill.After you’ve framed the walls, tipthem up into position (Photo 9),brace them, then fasten the soleplates to the anchor bolts.

Before you nail the wall cornerstogether, climb up your stepladderand hammer along the top plateabove the stud locations. This isnecessary because the studs canwork loose a bit from moving thewalls and tipping them into posi-tion. Hammering down on the topplate will close any gaps so that thewalls end up all the same heightbefore you nail the corners together.

FIG. G BACK WALLMore CRAFTSMAN SHED ää

HEADER

TRIMMER

WINDOWROUGH

OPENING

TOPPLATE

7' STUDS

SIDE WALLCRIPPLESTUDS

SILL

SOLEPLATE

ANCHOR BOLT,WASHER AND NUT

BACK WALL

SIDEWALL


11NAIL the tie plates to thetop plates of each wallnear each stud location.

Drive two nails over each cornerto lock the walls together.

12CUT OUT the bottomplate (your toes willappreciate this) for

the doorway once the walls aresecured to the slab. Note theundercut on the sole plate madebefore the wall was nailed togeth-er. This cut saves on saw blades!

13NAIL diagonal bracesacross the wall onceyou’ve got each corner

perfectly plumb (a helper is amust). Nail the brace at the soleplate, top plate and near the center of the wall. Nail 1/2-in. plywood sheathing to the frontwalls with 8d nails to brace them.

14NAIL the double joisthangers to the frontwall on each side so the

top of the 2x6 beam will be flushwith the top of the tie plate (Fig.B). Add another stud to the back-side of the plywood if necessaryto catch the joist hanger nails.

Cut tie plates from 2x4s andnail them (with 16d sinkers)

to the top plate near the stud loca-tions. Don’t use tie plate materialshorter than 3 ft.

Add braces (Photo 13) to thewalls as you plumb the corners. Thebraces are necessary to keep thewalls straight and solid while youinstall the trusses and nail thesheathing to the studs. Nail thebraces from sole plate to top plateand into the studs. Then use a 4-ft.level to check the walls for plumb.Check both ends of a wall and split the difference to give the best

Tie the walls together, then plumb the corners

possible corners. It’s unlikely thatall wall corners will be perfect. Youmay have to compromise and geteach corner “nearly perfect.”


TIEPLATE

FRONTWALL

DIAGONALBRACE

4'LEVEL

1/2" PLYWOOD

SHEATHING

DOUBLE 2x6JOIST HANGER

8-3/4" TOCENTERFRONT

WALL

UNDERCUTMADE BEFORE

ASSEMBLYPLATE BELOW

DOOR OPENING



Once you’ve got the front wallsheathed with plywood

(Photo 13), measure from the out-side corner and then down from thetie plate on each side to mark theposition for the double joist hanger(Photo 14). These hangers will cradle the side beams and connectthem to the main structure. (Theside beams are structural.) Becausethe nailing pattern of joist hangersvaries by brand, you may need toadd another wall stud to be sureyour nails hit solid wood. Lay theextra stud flat behind the plywoodand nail it to the plates.

Next set the front posts into theanchors you installed when youpoured the slab. Use specialSimpson Strong-Drive steel fastenerscrews plus two 1/4 x 1-1/2 in. lagscrews per post. If your anchor isslightly off position, you can slidethe post forward or back to com-pensate. Just make sure the baseposition of each 4x4 post is exactlythe same distance from the frontwall. Note: Cut the top of the 4x4posts 5-1/2 in. shorter than the wall height.

Set the front posts and beams square to the main shed

15SCREW the 4x4 poststo the steel anchorsusing special screws

designed for steel connectors. Be sure the post is close to plumbas you drive the screws.

16NAIL together the 2x6s that make each beam. Use apair of 16d nails every 16 in. Set the two side beamsfirst, then tack them to the joist hangers. Fasten them

to the front posts. Notice how the beams interlock in the inset.Nail each end of the front beam into the side beams with three16d nails. Each steel anchor for the top post and beam must haveone side flange bent down to fasten under the beam.

17MARKthetruss

layout on the topplates, starting atthe back wall.Measure 16-in.centers. Tip upthe rear gable endtruss first, makingsure it’s centeredon the wall. Usetemporary bracesnailed to the wallframing to helpsupport the trussuntil the roofframing is com-pleted. Set thefront gable trussas well using tem-porary supports.

Nail the beams in place as shownin Photo 16. Screw the beam-to-post anchors on top of each 4x4.Bend down the arm of the anchor tosecure the beam to the post. The


beams should be flush with the out-side edges of the posts. Plumb theposts and add a brace (Photo 18).


4x4TREATED

POST

4x4 POSTANCHOR,

EMBEDDED IN CONCRETE

4'LEVEL

DOUBLE 2x6FRONT BEAM

83"

2x6 SIDEBEAM

BACKSIDEGABLE TRUSS

TEMPORARY2x4 BRACES

18SET each common truss after you’ve set the gable end trusses.Tie a string tightly between the gable trusses (about an inch ormore above them) as a centerline guide for setting the common

trusses. Check the overhang of each truss against the side wall as well, toensure consistency. Fasten the trusses to the top plates by using the steelbrackets shown in the inset. Be sure to align the truss chords on yourmarks on the top plates. The trusses are placed 16 in. on center, measuredfrom the far side of the back wall framing. Use a horizontal brace to fastenthe trusses and maintain spacing near the top.

19SLIDE two sheets of 1/2-in. plywood onto the 2x6 chords before

you set the trusses over the frontporch section of the shed (see Fig. Bfor details). Fasten them perma-nently with 8d nails to make thestorage floor once the trusses arepositioned. To complete the floor,you’ll need an additional partialsheet, which you can set in placelater. Nail the plywood loft floor tothe top of the chords with 8d com-mon nails (see Fig. B, Detail 1, forexact spacing near the gable endwindows).

Mark the locations for thetrusses onto each tie plate

and double side beam. Start at theback wall on each side wall; placethe first mark at 15-1/4 in. and therest every 16 in. all the way to thefront. Get help to lift the trussesonto the top plates. Start with thegable trusses. Make sure the gableend trusses are positioned so thegussets face the inside of the struc-ture. Nail temporary braces to theback wall and the front beams andposts to hold the gable end trussesin position as you fasten them to thetie plate. Use special steel anchors(Photo 18 inset) to connect thetrusses to the walls. Make sure the trusses are centered over theouter walls.

Once the gable end trusses are set,drive a 16d nail halfway into the topof each truss and tie a string tightlyfrom one end to the other (Photo

18). Center each truss under thestring and check the overhang dis-tance from the wall on each side.Screw each truss chord to the tieplate (Photo 18 inset). Use a 1x3board to support the trusses nearthe top and maintain the properspacing there as well (Photo 19).Position this support 24 in. downfrom the top so it can be used as apurlin to later support the metal

Set the trusses and anchor themCraftsman Storage Shed

COMMONTRUSSES

DIAGONALBRACE

LAYOUTMARK

TIEPLATE

STEEL ANCHOR

#A23 HORIZONTALBRACE

TRUSS

1/2" PLYWOODLOFT FLOOR


STRING LINE

1x3



Install the purlins and plywoodroofing. Before you set the last fourtrusses, lift two sheets of plywoodover the chords to use later for theflooring of the storage loft.

Nail a 4-ft. cleat to the chord ofeach gable truss (Fig. B, Detail 1) tosupport the plywood floor on eachend. The gable window frames willbutt into the floor later as they arenailed to the opening of each gabletruss (Fig. B). Nail the plywood tothe chords and then crosscut a par-tial piece of plywood to completethe floor. Note: Nail an 8-ft. diago-nal brace from each gable truss(Photo 20 and Fig. B) through thefloor of the loft and into a blockpositioned between the trusschords. These braces are necessaryto add rigidity to the roof.

Nail the rest of the purlins totrusses. The purlins that extend pastthe gables must overlap at least twotrusses because they, along with thebrackets you’ll install later in Part 2,help support the fly rafters. Don’ttrim the purlins to length yet. Leavethem long until you measure thesteel roofing panels and see howthey’ll lay out.

Nail the plywood sheathing to thewalls to give rigidity and strength tothe building. Nail 1/2-in. plywoodto the exterior of the gable trusses aswell. Once all the plywood is nailedoff, remove the 2x4 braces from theinside walls. Now the framing phaseis complete.

In our next issue, we’ll make window frames and doors and addtrim, siding, roofing and faux stonework to complete the project.

20NAIL the purlins to the tops of the trusses with 8d nails (seeFig. C for correct placement). The purlins will support the metalroof that gets screwed in place later. Let the purlins overhang

the gables by about 18 in. and trim them to exact length later.

21NAIL the 1/2-in. ply-wood sheathing to thewood framing with 8d

nails. Space the nails every 6 in.along the studs. Nail around thewindow opening and into the header as well.



1/2" PLYWOODLOFT FLOOR

1x3PURLINS

PURLINS

1/2" PLYWOODSHEATHING

DIAGONALBRACE

DIAGONALBRACE


FRONT WALL VERSION 2D 2/26/01

Story Number— Story Name—Arts & Craft Shed Issue— Editor—Dave Radtke Art Director—Bob Unger Tech Art Version—2F 4/10/01

Next issue: Roof andfinish details


Hardware:16d sinker nails 10 lbs.

8d sinker nails 10 lbs.

6d common nails 5 lbs.(if hand-nailing gussets)

10d galv. casing nails 5 lbs.

PB44 Simpson post brackets 2

A23 Simpson steel anchors 40

Simpson Strong-Drive screws 4 pkgs.

BC4 upper post-to-beam brackets 2

Double 2x6 joist hangers 2

No-mortise hinges for windows 8 pair

Lid supports (for upper windows) 2 pairNo. 4 rebar 72 ft.

Materials List continued from p. 37

Art Direction • BOB UNGARPhotography • BILL ZUEHLKEIllustrations • GENE THOMPSONProject Design • DAVID RADTKE

68 JULY /AUGUST 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN

Form and pour the slab

Build on the slab and stand up the walls

In Part 1, we showed you how to

PPaarrtt 11

Make and install the trusses

by David Radtke



www.familyhandyman.com

THE FAMILY HANDYMAN JULY /AUGUST 2001 69

Build and set the windows

Measure and nail the siding

Install steel roof panels

In we show you how to

PPaarrtt 22

p.70p.70

p.74p.74

p.80p.80

Do-it-yourself customdoor and window trimand more! Here’s howto make and install it.

Do-it-yourself customdoor and window trimand more! Here’s howto make and install it.



In this second installment, we’llguide you through the process of

transforming the plain framed boxinto a beautiful building that’ll bethe envy of the neighborhood. Thedetails are found in our clear, easy-to-follow photos and plan drawings.

The roof is composed of factory-finished durable steel panels thatwill go on in a fraction of the time ittakes to install ordinary shingles.You just screw the panels to the roof framework and you’re done.Order the length you need fromyour supplier (check with a homecenter to special-order it). If youbuy off-the-shelf steel panels, youcan cut them yourself with a metal-cutting blade in your circular saw.

The windows and doors we choselend an authentic charm, but youcould buy preassembled windowsand doors for a slightly different

look and shorten the labor time.Our quaint-looking windows are

ordinary barn sashes that youhinge in a simple-to-constructcedar frame. The doors are solid-core birch exterior flush doors (flat as a pancake) that you cut awindow opening into. Then youglue and nail cedar strips to theexterior for an authentic frame-and-panel look.

The exterior walls are adornedwith cedar lap siding below andcedar shingles on the gable. The trim boards for the corners,windows and doors, along with the porch detailing, are pieces youmake from ordinary construction-grade cedar. You make all the trimfrom 2x8s, 2x6s, 5/4 x 6 decking (1-in. thick cedar boards withrounded edges) and 1x12 and 1x4 cedar.

While we can’t show a photo forevery detail, we do illustrate all thebasic techniques you’ll need. Thetechnical drawings are completeand will help you analyze and follow each process.

Last issue we left off with nailingthe 1/2-in. plywood over the studsto complete the sheathing. Beforeyou install the trim, windows andsiding, staple 15-lb. felt paper overthe sheathing (use either a hand-squeeze type or a hammer tackerstapler). The felt acts as a moisturebarrier in case water gets behind thesiding. Start at the bottom and sta-ple it to the plywood every 12 in.,and overlap each course 1-1/2 in.

Picking up where we left offCraftsman Storage Shed

NOTE: OUR SPECIAL-ORDERSTEEL ROOF PANELS CAME LATE,SO WE FORGED AHEAD WITH THETRIM AND SIDING TO SAVE TIME.

1COVER the sheathing with 15-lb.building paper and fasten it with ahammer tacker before installing any

trim. Then cut the corner boards to thedimensions shown in Fig. K and nail themin place with 8d galvanized casing nails.

Make your own window framesand trimMaking windows like

these is simpler than itlooks. Study Figs. A and C for theconstruction details. Nail the corners of the jambs together with 6d casingnails. Screw the no-mortise hinges (see Buyer’sGuide, p. 86) tothe side jambs ofthe window frames(top jamb for thegable end win-dows). Then screwthe other flange ofthe hinge to the window sashes.

Rip some 3/4 x3/4-in. pieces from

wider boards to make the windowstop. Nail the stop from the insideof the window frame so it buttsagainst the windows when youclose them. You can buy sliding-

FIG. A GABLE WINDOW DETAIL

3-1/4" x 5/4 CORNERBOARD

2-1/4" x 5/4 CORNERBOARD

SPEEDSQUARE

15-LB. BUILDING

PAPER

WINDOWS, FLY RAFTER AND EAVE BRACKETS VERSION 3F —5/14/01

46"

43-1/4"

3/4" x 5" JAMBS

3/4" x 5" JAMB

1" x 4" TOP CASING

1" x 3-1/2" SIDE CASING

22" x 41-1/4" SASHES

NO-MORTISE HINGES

1-1/2" x 1-1/2" SILL

FIG. C SIDE WINDOW DETAIL

12

3/4" x 3/4" STOP (TYP.)

DETAIL A—GABLE WINDOW DETAIL

24"

2x6 FASCIA

43-1/4"

NO-MORTISE HINGES

22" x 41-1/4" SASH

1" x 4" CASING TRUSS HEADER

3/4" x 2" JAMBS

LID SUPPORT

3/4" x 1" STOP (TYP.)

17" (PURLIN OVERHANG + 2")

20"15"

1-3/4" x 1-3/4" NOTCHES

1-1/2" x 1-1/2" CHAMFER

CUT FROM 4x4s

1-3/4"

FIG. F EAVE BRACKET

CHAMFER45

FIG. D FLY RAFTER DETAIL

102"

112-1/2"

1-3/4" x 1-3/4" NOTCH

3-1/2" x 3-1/2" NOTCH

50-1/2"

1-1/2"

2-1/2" 3/4"

3/4"

1x2 CLEAT ON INSIDE

THE FAMILY HANDYMAN JULY /AUGUST 2001 71

CULTURED FIELDSTONE

REAR VIEW OF SHED

Fig. B — SHED ASSEMBLY

EXPANDED METAL LATH (STUCCO LATH)

1/2" THICK MORTAR BED

1/2" PRESSURE-TREATED PLYWOOD

30-LB. BUILDING PAPER

15-LB. BUILDING PAPER

1/4" PLYWOOD CEILING

NO. 2 CEDAR SHINGLES

NO. 2 CEDAR SHINGLES

1/2" x 5-1/2" CEDAR LAP SIDING (4-1/2" EXPOSURE)

CORNER BOARDS

1/2" x 5-1/2" CEDAR

LAP SIDING

ROOFING, 102" LENGTH; SCREW TO PURLINS

RIDGE

2x8 FLY RAFTER

1x4 BLOCKING ON GABLE RAFTERS BETWEEN PURLINS

1" x 4" GABLE TRIM

2x6 TRIM

FRONT BEAM; SEE FIG. G

SIDE BEAM; SEE FIG. E

OVERLAP LAST SECTION TO FIT

FLY RAFTERS; SEE FIG. D

GABLE WINDOW; SEE FIG. A

SIDE WINDOW; SEE FIG. C

EAVE BRACKET; SEE FIG. F

COLUMN; SEE FIG. H2

CAPITAL; SEE FIG. H1

BASE; SEE FIG. H3

DOOR / FRONT WALL; SEE FIG. K

2x6 TRIM

1x3 PURLIN; SCREW INTO PURLIN CLEAT

STEEL ROOF PANELSCREWS AND RUBBER WASHERS

FRONT WALL VERSION 2D 2/26/01

Story Number— Story Name—Arts & Craft Shed Issue—July/August 2001 Editor—Dave Radtke Art Director—Becky Pfluger Tech Art Version—5F 5/15/01


FIG. B FINISH DETAILS


Building codes in some areas require additional seismic and high-wind anchors. Ask your local building inspector about local requirements.

Oops! Last issue (Part I) the commontrusses were incorrectly labeled 24" O.C.The correct spacing is 16" O.C.


46"

43-1/4"

3/4" x 5" JAMBS

3/4" x 5" JAMB

1" x 4" TOP CASING


22" x 41-1/4" SASHES

NO-MORTISE HINGES

1-1/2" x 1-1/2" SILL


12

3/4" x 3/4" STOP (TYP.)


24"

2x6 FASCIA

43-1/4"

NO-MORTISE HINGES

22" x 41-1/4" SASH


3/4" x 2" JAMBS

LID SUPPORT

3/4" x 1" STOP (TYP.)


20"15"

1-3/4" x 1-3/4" NOTCHES

1-1/2" x 1-1/2" CHAMFER

CUT FROM 4x4s

1-3/4"

FIG. F EAVE BRACKET

CHAMFER45


102"

112-1/2"

1-3/4" x 1-3/4" NOTCH

3-1/2" x 3-1/2" NOTCH

50-1/2"

1-1/2"

2-1/2" 3/4"

3/4"

1x2 CLEAT ON INSIDE

bolt window latches and two pairs of locking arm lid supports to hold open the gable end windows.

Before you install the windows, rip the corner trim

boards from 5/4 x 6 cedar decking (1-in. thick by 5-1/2 in.wide boards) to the dimensions in Fig. K and Photo 1.Note that one corner edge is wider and overlaps the otherso the corner appears to be the same width from any angle.Nail the corner trim with 8d galvanized casing nails.

2NAIL temporary blocks on the outside corners asshown. Preassemble your window frames andsashes (Figs. A and C) and then slide the window

frame against the blocks from inside the shed. Shim allsides as necessary and nail the jambs to the framing with8d galvanized nails.


Window installation simplified



TEMPORARYBLOCKS

2' LEVEL

WINDOW FRAME;SEE FIG. C

A few specialty tools make the job go smoothlyAlong with the basic carpentry tools you used in Part 1, you’ll also need a portable table saw and power mitersaw for cutting trim pieces. When we trimmed the gables and installed the steel roof panels, we made do without two sections of scaffolding with wheels. We regretted it—they would have been worth the extra $55per week (our local rental cost for two 5-ft. sections with casters).

To make installing your window units easier, nailtemporary blocks to the rough framing as shown

in Photo 2. The blocks should be nailed across the corner so they trap the frame as you set it in place fromthe inside but still allow the window to open. Set theframe into the rough opening from the inside, push itagainst your blocks and check the sill for level. Shim asnecessary. When the sill is level, check each side jambof the frame for plumb (vertical). Shim and nail eachside with 8d galvanized casing nails, then remove thetemporary blocks. Cut the beveled sill piece as shownin Fig. C, and nail it to the frame and through thesheathing from the outside. Nail the side casings andthe upper casing to the frame and sheathing as well.Repeat the process for the upper gable windows.



The door frame is going to takemore abuse than the window

frames, so be sure to make it from3/4-in. No. 2 pine instead of cedar.Examine Fig. K for the door con-struction details and special terms.With your door frame pieces (headjamb and side jambs) laid out onthe floor, nail the side jambs to the

head jamb with 6d box nails. Tip theframe into the rough opening.

The next step is to check the headjamb for level with the side jambsresting on the slab. Have a friendhelp you with this. If the head jambisn’t level, you may have to trim thelength of one side jamb slightly tolevel it. Next, shim the side jambs as


Build the door frame before installing the siding

4CUT AND NAIL the 5/4 x 4-in. casing (rippedfrom cedar decking) to the jamb and the sheath-ing with 8d casing nails. The casing is set flush

with the jamb because the hinges are surface-mounted.


FLUSHCASING

TO JAMB

3/4" x 5"JAMB

5/4 x 4" CASING

3CUT and assemble the door frame (Fig. K), thentape a 4-ft. level to a straight 2x6 to straightenand plumb each side of the door frame. Shim as

necessary and use 10d galvanized casing nails to securethe jambs to the framing.

shown in Photo 3, making sure thejambs are flush with the exterior ply-wood. Shim and nail the sides andtop so they’re straight and solid.Drive a pair of nails every 2 ft. alongthe sides and top. Then nail the 5/4casing (cut from 5/4 x 6 decking,which is approximately 1 in. thick)flush to the jambs and the framing.

Siding tips

I’ve never met anyone who actu-ally enjoys putting on lap siding

(Photo 5), but I’ve met lots of peo-ple who love the job after it’s done.Here are a few tips to make the taska bit easier:

n Mark the level of each courseusing a story pole. A story pole isany long piece of wood that youpremark to show siding courseintervals. Set the story pole

they can split your siding whennailed within 3 in. of the end. Toavoid this, drill a pilot hole first.

n Never finish a side with a skinnywidth of siding. Besides beingfragile, narrow pieces tend to lookout of place. When you get within

Windows and doors commonly have a metal flashing called adrip cap above the top piece of trim, nailed to the sheathingand then covered by siding. You won’t need to flash theseareas on this shed because of the large overhangs.

Tip

SHIM TOSTRAIGHTEN

JAMB

SHIMS

HOMEMADESTRAIGHT-

EDGE

SHINS

even with the slab and transferthese marks onto the corner,window and door trim. Thismethod of marking off levels will save time and the hassle ofconstant measuring.

n Use only “splitless” siding nails.These special ribbed nails, avail-able at home centers and lumber-yards, minimize splitting. Even


the last several courses, measure and adjust the row spacingas needed to avoid this problem.

n Minimize butt joints by avoiding short lengths of siding.Plan the lengths or try to specify what you need when you buy it. Most siding is now sold in random lengths.Separate the bundle into long and short lengths and planahead to minimize waste. Use the short pieces along windows and doors.


The beauty of the porch is in the details

STORYPOLE

1/2" x 5-1/2"CEDAR LAP

SIDING


46"

43-1/4"

3/4" x 5" JAMBS

3/4" x 5" JAMB

1" x 4" TOP CASING


22" x 41-1/4" SASHES

NO-MORTISE HINGES

1-1/2" x 1-1/2" SILL


12

3/4" x 3/4" STOP (TYP.)


24"

2x6 FASCIA

43-1/4"

NO-MORTISE HINGES

22" x 41-1/4" SASH


3/4" x 2" JAMBS

LID SUPPORT

3/4" x 1" STOP (TYP.)


20"15"

1-3/4" x 1-3/4" NOTCHES

1-1/2" x 1-1/2" CHAMFER

CUT FROM 4x4s

1-3/4"

FIG. F EAVE BRACKET

CHAMFER45


102"

112-1/2"

1-3/4" x 1-3/4" NOTCH

3-1/2" x 3-1/2" NOTCH

50-1/2"

1-1/2"

2-1/2" 3/4"

3/4"

1x2 CLEAT ON INSIDE

WINDOW SASH 3/4" x 1" STOP

3/4" x 2" JAMB

3/4" x 1" TRIM 3/4" x 6" TRIM

1/2" SHEATHING

1/2" PLYWOOD FLOOR

2x4 CLEAT

3/4" x 3" CLEAT

1/4" PLYWOOD

1/4" PLYWOOD

2x6 TRIM

2x8 TRIM (RIP TO 6-1/2")

2x6 TRUSS CHORD

3/4"

DOUBLE 2x6 BEAM3/4" x 3/4" CLEAT

3/4" x 1" TRIM

3/4" x 6" TRIM

DOUBLE 2x6 BEAM

1/4" PLYWOOD

1/4" PLYWOOD1x8 TRIM (RIP TO 6-1/2")

TRUSS2x6 BLOCKING (TRIM TO FIT)

2x4 CLEAT

3/4"

4"

BEAM SECTIONS AND COLUMN DETAILS VERSION 3F — 5/14/01

6-1/2"BEAM

3-1/2" (NARROW BOARD) 5" (WIDE BOARD)

9-3/4" (NARROW BOARD) 11-1/4" ( WIDE BOARD)

52-1/2"

TAPERED

SIDE BOARDS

WIDE BOARD

WIDE BOARD

NARROW BOARD

NARROW BOARD

2x3 x 9" CLEAT

1/2" x 1/2" TRIM

3/4" x 2-1/8" TRIM

3/4" x 2-1/8" TRIM

25" SQUARE

12" SQUARE

2x8s MITERED

2x4s MITERED

1/2" x 1-1/2" CHAMFER

LC

FIG. E SIDE BEAM DETAILFIG. G FRONT BEAM DETAIL

FIG. H1 CAPITAL DETAIL FIG. H2 COLUMN DETAIL

FIG. H3 BASE DETAIL

SIDE BEAM DETAILFIG. E

FIG. DFLY RAFTER DETAIL

MARK the siding courseson the corner and windowtrim with a story pole (seep.74). Nail the siding through the

sheathing and into the studswith 8d siding nails after all the

door and window trim is inplace. Position each nail 3/4 in.

up from the bottom edge andleave a 4-1/2 in. exposure

on each course.

5Caulk all thejoints wherethe sidingmeets thetrim. Use a cedar-colored siliconizedacrylic caulk.

Tip

DOUBLE 2x6 SIDE BEAM

(COVER WITH 1x8)

CEDARPLYWOOD

CEILING

1/4"CEDAR

PLYWOOD

3/4" x 6-1/2"WITH

3/4" x 3/4"CLEAT

DOUBLE2x6

FRONTBEAM

EXTENDEDBEAM 6CUT 1/4-in.

cedar ply-wood to fit

the ceiling of thefront porch andalso to enclose thebeams on eachside. Note that the beams arewidened to keepthe extended raftertails consistentwith the sides ofthe shed (see Figs.E and G). Trim outthe joint betweenthe ceiling andbeams with 3/4 x1-in. cedar rippedfrom wider boards.

Nail the 1/4-in. cedar plywood to the truss chords to create a porch ceiling. Use 1-1/4 in. wood-toned panel nails for the best results. Next make the wood boxes

that attach to the outside of the double 2x6 beam (Fig. E). These boxes fillout the width of the beam (Photo 6) so the roof overhang is consistentwith the rear section of the shed. Nail a 2x4 cleat to the 2x6 blocking youinstalled earlier between the trusses. Then nail the 1x8 trim (with the 3/4 x

More SHED ää


Before installing our roof pan-els, we needed to build the

overhang. Cut the fly rafter (Figs. B

and D) to length and use a jigsaw tocut the notches and decorativeends. Also, glue and nail a cleat(Fig. D) 3/4 in. down from thetop on each inner side. Trim thepurlins to take the best advantageof the roofing panel widths (seep. 80). We trimmed ours at 15 in.from the gable sheathing. To pre-vent the purlins from splitting asyou screw them to the fly raftercleats (Photo 7), predrill pilotand countersink holes 3/8 in.from the end of each.

Make the front and rear gablebrackets (Fig. F) from clear cedar

4x4. Cut theangled pieces witha power miter sawor a handsaw.Connect the topand back pieces ofthe bracket with1/4 x 3-in. lagscrews. Use 8dgalvanized casingnails for eachdiagonal piece.Get a friend tohelp you installthe brackets(Photo 7).

To furthersecure the brack-ets, cut a 2x6 for


You’ll need help to set the brackets on the overhangs


46"

43-1/4"

3/4" x 5" JAMBS

3/4" x 5" JAMB

1" x 4" TOP CASING


22" x 41-1/4" SASHES

NO-MORTISE HINGES

1-1/2" x 1-1/2" SILL


12

3/4" x 3/4" STOP (TYP.)


24"

2x6 FASCIA

43-1/4"

NO-MORTISE HINGES

22" x 41-1/4" SASH


3/4" x 2" JAMBS

LID SUPPORT

3/4" x 1" STOP (TYP.)


20"15"

1-3/4" x 1-3/4" NOTCHES

1-1/2" x 1-1/2" CHAMFER

CUT FROM 4x4s

1-3/4"

FIG. F EAVE BRACKET

CHAMFER45


102"

112-1/2"

1-3/4" x 1-3/4" NOTCH

3-1/2" x 3-1/2" NOTCH

50-1/2"

1-1/2"

2-1/2" 3/4"

3/4"

1x2 CLEAT ON INSIDE

FIG. F EAVE BRACKET

7TRIM the purlins to length for an ideal roofing layout (see text)then build the brackets to the dimensions shown in Fig. F. Screwthe eave brackets to the gable sheathing with 3-in. screws from

the backside of the sheathing after you slip them into the precut notchesyou cut in the fly rafter. Screw the purlins to the 1x2 cleat on the backsideof the fly rafters before you install the brackets. The cleat is positioned 3/4 in. down from the top and follows the length of the fly rafter.

1x2 NAILED TOBACKSIDE OFFLY RAFTER

FLYRAFTER

3/4-in. cleat attached) to the 2x4cleat you just nailed to the blocking.Remember, you’re just wideningthe beam and putting 1/4-in. ply-wood under it as shown in Photo 6.

Next, trim the inside of the porchceiling where it intersects with the


8NAIL on the remaining trim andthen staple No. 2 cedar shingles tothe gable ends with a pneumatic

stapler. Start at the bottom with a doublelayer of shingles to accent the taper on thebottom against the horizontal trim board.Shoot at least two staples per shingle.

15-LB.BUILDING

PAPER

PURLINS

5/4 x 4"GABLETRIM

2x8 FLYRAFTER

NO. 2CEDAR

SHINGLES

each side and nail it to the trussesbehind the brackets. Drill 5/16-in.pilot holes and secure the bracketwith 3/8-in. x 4-1/2 in. lag screws.


3/4" x 2" JAMB

3/4" x 1" TRIM 3/4" x 6" TRIM

1/2" SHEATHING

1/2" PLYWOOD FLOOR

2x4 CLEAT

3/4" x 3" CLEAT

1/4" PLYWOOD

1/4" PLYWOOD

2x6 TRIM


2x6 TRUSS CHORD

3/4"


3/4" x 1" TRIM

3/4" x 6" TRIM

DOUBLE 2x6 BEAM

1/4" PLYWOOD



2x4 CLEAT

3/4"

4"


6-1/2"BEAM



52-1/2"

TAPERED

SIDE BOARDS

WIDE BOARD

WIDE BOARD

NARROW BOARD

NARROW BOARD

2x3 x 9" CLEAT

1/2" x 1/2" TRIM

3/4" x 2-1/8" TRIM

3/4" x 2-1/8" TRIM

25" SQUARE

12" SQUARE

2x8s MITERED

2x4s MITERED

1/2" x 1-1/2" CHAMFER

LC



FIG. H3 BASE DETAIL

FIG. G FRONT BEAM DETAIL

PURLINS

EAVEBRACKETS



Roofing goes fast with precut panels

9SCREW the steel roofing to the purlins (the hori-zontal wood strips) with special self-tapping screwswith built-in rubber washers (Fig. B). Each roof

panel is 102 in. long. Be sure to specify length when youorder or you’ll need to cut them. Wear leather gloves whenyou handle this stuff. The edges are sharp! Begin installingthe steel roof cap when you’re at the halfway point.

Fasten the gable shingles with an air-powered staplerHave one person up on the

ladder setting and staplingshingles and the other on theground cutting. Cut and tack 15-lb.felt over the plywood sheathing,then nail all the window and gabletrim in place as shown in Fig. B.

STEELROOFINGPANELS

10FRAME AND SHEATHE the column basesusing treated plates and plywood. Screw theplates into the slab with concrete screws.

Staple 30-lb. felt to the entire base. Lay expanded wiremesh over the felt and plywood. Nail the mesh every 6 in. with 1-1/4 in. roofing nails.

18" x 18" x 26"COLUMN BASE

30-LB. BUILDING

PAPER

1/2"TREATED,PLYWOOD

SHEATHING

To get all the shingles even acrossthe bottom of each course, cut a 6-in.length off a scrap shingle and mark it“gauge.” Use this to measure eachshingle exposure as you staple it inplace. Drive at least two 1-1/8 in. longstaples in each shingle so the next

course will hide your staples (Photo 8).Stagger the joints on each row of shingles to prevent leaks. The gable isa triangle; cut the angled pieces care-fully on your miter saw or table saw.


If you must cut this stuff, buy a Carborundum metal-cutting blade foryour circular saw. Wear a face shield andhearing protection. Be sure the panelsare well supported as you cut.

TipBefore you cut your purlins to length toinstall the fly rafters, just lay the roofingpanels out on your lawn and measurethe coverage.

Tip

The 3-ft. wide roof panels areavailable at most home cen-

ters. Some home centers stock twoor three basic colors. We chose aspecial-order green and alsoordered it to the 102-in. length weneeded to avoid having to cut it.

To get the panels to fit our shed

dimension from front to back, wehad to half-lap the last panel. Half ofthe last panel covers half of the pre-ceding panel. Also, to have a fin-ished end on the long panel edge,we flipped it end for end.

Have a screw gun ready to drivethe special rubber-washered fasten-

ers into the purlins. Don’t step onthe roof panels or you’ll put a nastycrease in them. As you go, screw thepanels off and install each 10-ft.long roof panel cap (Fig. B) to theroof panels. Set a ladder up on thegable side to reach, and get a screwin every 3 ft.


that looks like real stone; seePhoto 13). See p. 38 in this issuefor more information oninstalling cast stone.

Study Fig. H1 for constructiondetails for the upper columns andcapitals. Miter the 2x8 cap piecesand nail them to the top of theplywood base. Use 10d galva-nized nails. Next rip some 2x4s to 3 in., then crosscut them into 9-in. lengths and screw thembetween the 4x4 post and the 2x8 base cap. These cleats willprovide backing for the taperedcolumn boards.

Now taper the 1x12s to thedimensions in Fig. H2 with yourcircular saw. Note that the taperis the same on all the pieces, but one pair for each column is narrower by 1-1/2 in. Glue (useTitebond II) and nail three sidesof the tapered column togetherbefore you set it in place. Positionthe assembly around the 4x4 post(Photo 11) and then glue and nail


Tapered columns complement the Craftsman stylingFrame the column bases as

shown in Part 1 and nail1/2-in. treated plywood to thebase framing. Staple 30-lb. build-ing paper to the plywood base(use a squeeze-type or hammertacker with 1/4-in. staples). Next,nail the expanded metal lath(commonly referred to as stuccomesh) to the plywood. Metal lathis available at home centers and isa must for installing culturedstone (lightweight, cast concrete


3/4" x 2" JAMB

3/4" x 1" TRIM 3/4" x 6" TRIM

1/2" SHEATHING

1/2" PLYWOOD FLOOR

2x4 CLEAT

3/4" x 3" CLEAT

1/4" PLYWOOD

1/4" PLYWOOD

2x6 TRIM


2x6 TRUSS CHORD

3/4"


3/4" x 1" TRIM

3/4" x 6" TRIM

DOUBLE 2x6 BEAM

1/4" PLYWOOD



2x4 CLEAT

3/4"

4"


6-1/2"BEAM



52-1/2"

TAPERED

SIDE BOARDS

WIDE BOARD

WIDE BOARD

NARROW BOARD

NARROW BOARD

2x3 x 9" CLEAT

1/2" x 1/2" TRIM

3/4" x 2-1/8" TRIM

3/4" x 2-1/8" TRIM

25" SQUARE

12" SQUARE

2x8s MITERED

2x4s MITERED

1/2" x 1-1/2" CHAMFER

LC



FIG. H3 BASE DETAIL

FIG. H1

11ASSEMBLE the base and capitalsas shown in Figs. H1 – H3, then fiteach tapered section of the front

columns. Note that the front and backsideboards of the columns are wider becausethey overlap the side boards. Once the column pieces are nailed together, securethem to the mitered base and capital oneach side with 8d casing nails. Add thesmaller trim around the top and bottom of the tapered columns to hide any gaps.

the last tapered board in place. Center thetapered assembly to thebase and capital andnail it in place with 8dcasing nails.

Cut the small piecesof trim for the basearound the top and bottom of the taperedsections (Figs. H1 and

H3) and nail them inplace with No. 4 orsmaller finish nails.Caulk the joints aroundthe base to keep out rain.


3/4" x 2" JAMB

3/4" x 1" TRIM 3/4" x 6" TRIM

1/2" SHEATHING

1/2" PLYWOOD FLOOR

2x4 CLEAT

3/4" x 3" CLEAT

1/4" PLYWOOD

1/4" PLYWOOD

2x6 TRIM


2x6 TRUSS CHORD

3/4"


3/4" x 1" TRIM

3/4" x 6" TRIM

DOUBLE 2x6 BEAM

1/4" PLYWOOD



2x4 CLEAT

3/4"

4"


6-1/2"BEAM



52-1/2"

TAPERED

SIDE BOARDS

WIDE BOARD

WIDE BOARD

NARROW BOARD

NARROW BOARD

2x3 x 9" CLEAT

1/2" x 1/2" TRIM

3/4" x 2-1/8" TRIM

3/4" x 2-1/8" TRIM

25" SQUARE

12" SQUARE

2x8s MITERED

2x4s MITERED

1/2" x 1-1/2" CHAMFER

LC



FIG. H3 BASE DETAIL


3/4" x 2" JAMB

3/4" x 1" TRIM 3/4" x 6" TRIM

1/2" SHEATHING

1/2" PLYWOOD FLOOR

2x4 CLEAT

3/4" x 3" CLEAT

1/4" PLYWOOD

1/4" PLYWOOD

2x6 TRIM


2x6 TRUSS CHORD

3/4"


3/4" x 1" TRIM

3/4" x 6" TRIM

DOUBLE 2x6 BEAM

1/4" PLYWOOD



2x4 CLEAT

3/4"

4"


6-1/2"BEAM



52-1/2"

TAPERED

SIDE BOARDS

WIDE BOARD

WIDE BOARD

NARROW BOARD

NARROW BOARD

2x3 x 9" CLEAT

1/2" x 1/2" TRIM

3/4" x 2-1/8" TRIM

3/4" x 2-1/8" TRIM

25" SQUARE

12" SQUARE

2x8s MITERED

2x4s MITERED

1/2" x 1-1/2" CHAMFER

LC



FIG. H3 BASE DETAILFIG. H3 BASE DETAILFIG. H2 COLUMN DETAILMore CRAFTSMAN SHED ää

MITERED2x4 CAPITAL

PRENAILEDSIDES

MITERED2x8 BASE

WIDER,OVERLAPPING

TAPEREDBOARD NARROWER

TAPEREDBOARD

CAPITAL DETAIL

NOTBORED



Add cedar battens to doorfronts for a paneled look


46"

43-1/4"

3/4" x 5" JAMBS

3/4" x 5" JAMB

1" x 4" TOP CASING


22" x 41-1/4" SASHES

NO-MORTISE HINGES

1-1/2" x 1-1/2" SILL


12

3/4" x 3/4" STOP (TYP.)


24"

2x6 FASCIA

43-1/4"

NO-MORTISE HINGES

22" x 41-1/4" SASH


3/4" x 2" JAMBS

LID SUPPORT

3/4" x 1" STOP (TYP.)


20"15"

1-3/4" x 1-3/4" NOTCHES

1-1/2" x 1-1/2" CHAMFER

CUT FROM 4x4s

1-3/4"

FIG. F EAVE BRACKET

CHAMFER45


102"

112-1/2"

1-3/4" x 1-3/4" NOTCH

3-1/2" x 3-1/2" NOTCH

50-1/2"

1-1/2"

2-1/2" 3/4"

3/4"

1x2 CLEAT ON INSIDE


46"

43-1/4"

3/4" x 5" JAMBS

3/4" x 5" JAMB

1" x 4" TOP CASING


22" x 41-1/4" SASHES

NO-MORTISE HINGES

1-1/2" x 1-1/2" SILL


12

3/4" x 3/4" STOP (TYP.)


24"

2x6 FASCIA

43-1/4"

NO-MORTISE HINGES

22" x 41-1/4" SASH


3/4" x 2" JAMBS

LID SUPPORT

3/4" x 1" STOP (TYP.)


20"15"

1-3/4" x 1-3/4" NOTCHES

1-1/2" x 1-1/2" CHAMFER

CUT FROM 4x4s

1-3/4"

FIG. F EAVE BRACKET

CHAMFER45


102"

112-1/2"

1-3/4" x 1-3/4" NOTCH

3-1/2" x 3-1/2" NOTCH

50-1/2"

1-1/2"

2-1/2" 3/4"

3/4"

1x2 CLEAT ON INSIDE

FIG. K FRONT WALL/ DOOR DETAILS

Think of these double doors as panels that you need to hang sothe gaps are even around each door. If you’ve made your

opening square and straight, you’ll have an easier task ahead of you.Cut the opening in the door to match your window sash size, thenapply the wood strips to the front side of the door. Have a full-servicelumberyard plane some cedar boards to 1/2 in. thick (you may haveto pay a small fee). Rip them to width and cut them to length. Addingthe strips of wood over thedoors is as simple as cut-ting them to the right size(Fig. K), applying beads ofconstruction adhesive tothe back of each strip, andthen nailing each piece tothe front side of the door.The strips around the win-dow overlap the openingand act as stops for thefront side.

Once the glue dries, setthe window in from thebackside and nail somestop strips (Fig. J) to the

FIG. J HEAD JAMB

JULY /AUGUST 2001 85

sides of the window opening tohold the window in place.

Trim the doors as necessary tofit the opening. Allow about a1/8-in. gap on the sides and top,and a 1/4-in. total gap in the middle and bottom. Remember,the door fronts are flush with thedoor trim. Drive shims betweenthe slab and the bottom of thedoors to help you center them inthe opening. Drill the holes foryour hinges and prop the doorsin the opening. Drive lag screwsinto the hinges and door asshown and then add the latchhardware. We painted our hard-ware a deep tan color to make itblend better with the wood.

More SHED ää

12CUT the window open-ing in each door with acircular saw and finish

the corners with a jigsaw. Make theopening just large enough for thewindow. Glue 1/2-in. thick cedarboard to the front surface of a solid-core birch exterior door to create apanel effect for each door. Fit thedoors in the opening by shimmingthem temporarily. Position thehinges and drill pilot holes for the lag screws.

CEDAR BOARDSMILLED TO 1/2"

THICKNESS1-3/4" FLUSHSOLID-COREBIRCH DOOR


Art Direction • BECKY PFLUGER and BOB UNGARPhotography • BILL ZUEHLKEIllustrations • GENE THOMPSONProject Design • DAVID RADTKE

Buyer’s Guide n Barn sashes are available by mail-order if you can’t find them locally.

Call Lindsay Windows at (800) 967-2035 or (507) 625-4278. www.lindsaywindows.com

n The no-mortise hinges we used for our windows are part No. 28720 fromRockler Hardware (800-279-4441 or www.rockler.com).

For a copy of Part 1 of this article, see Reader Services, p. 116, or visit our Web site at www.familyhandyman.com. Part 1 has a materials list and step-by-step photos of the rough framing of the shed.

Installing cultured stone is like setting thick tileMix your mortar to the

consistency of mashedpotatoes—not the lumpy ones yourAunt Doris makes but your mother-in-law’s smoothest creation. Workon a shady day if you can. It seemslike every manufacturer has its ownhow-to recommendations, but theidea is to push mortar into thestucco mesh until it’s about 1/2 in.thick (read the instructions suppliedby the manufacturer). Work an areaseveral inches beyond each stoneyou choose to set. Have severalstones ready to select from. Keep abucket of water handy and dunk thestone before you apply mortar to it.Butter the back of a corner stonefirst (Photo 13) and push it into themortar. Then grab the next stoneand set it. Set all the lower cornerpieces and then find stones to fill inbetween. Work your way all aroundthe base about halfway up, thenstart on the next column and repeatthe process to give the lower stones

13PUSH a 1/2-in. thick mortar bed intothe wire mesh. Butter the back of thecultured fieldstone pieces as you fit

them to each column base. It’s best to start atthe bottom and do only the lower half, then goto the next column base. After the lower halfhas dried and set, you can continue to set thestones for each upper half. Grout according tothe manufacturer’s instructions.


Finishing detailsApply a deck sealer to the exterior of your shed or paintit if you like. We used an oil finish called Behr NWFWaterproofing Wood Sealer that did not have a filmresidue. You’ll need to apply it again in about two years.Natural graying will occur eventually with exposure tothe elements. You can always recapture the fresh-cutlook of cedar later with a deck-and-siding cleaner. Enjoy!

time to set and dry in place. If thestones start to fall away, you mayneed to prop them with sticks orslow down and wait for the mortarto firm up. Note: You may havesome gaps if you’re working withround stones. Use the smaller onesprovided to fill the gaps. We evenused a few real stones about 3 in. or so in diameter to help fill gaps.When you reach the top, you may have to do a littletrimming with a ham-mer and chisel to get thestones to fit. We hadgood luck and were ableto fit all but four.

After the stones are allset, you’ll need to addmortar between them.Get a grout bag fromyour stone supplier. Mix the mortar a bitthinner than before andscoop some into thebag. Squeeze the bag

and direct the mortar betweenstones. Once you’ve filled the gaps,go back and scrape away the excesswith a striking tool. A masonrybrush is handy to clean away excessmortar. Try not to get mortar everywhere. Be as neat as you canwith the mortar and avoid getting it on the face of the stones. Followthe manufacturer’s instructions.

TWO-PIECE TRIM ON

COLUMN BASE

CULTURED DO-IT-YOURSELFERCULTURED

FIELDSTONE

MORTARBED

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