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GRAM Magazine Issue 63 // JULY 2016
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Transcript of GRAM Magazine Issue 63 // JULY 2016
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EATING OUT
EAST RESTAURANT AND BARGastrology
HELLENIC HOTELLisa Holmen
REGULARS
REGIONAL
16
18
CONTRIBUTORS
NEWLY OPENED
AROUND THE TRAPS
THINGS WE LOVE
REVIEWS
OUT AND ABOUT
THE DIARY
4
6
7
18
30
32
33
CONTENTS
WHY MELBOURNE LOVES
REGIONAL VICTORIAN PRODUCEMegan Osborne
RECIPES
Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.
ON THE COVER: GARLICAllium sativum, commonly known as garlic, is a species in the onion genus, Allium.
Its close relatives include the onion, shallot, leek, chive, and rakkyo. With a history of human use of over 7,000 years, garlic is native to central Asia, and has long been a staple in the Mediterranean region, as well as a frequent seasoning in Asia, Africa, and Europe. It was known to Ancient Egyptians, and has been used both for food flavoring and traditional medicine.(Source: Wikipedia)
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Jess Hourigan
DEPUTY EDITOR
Lauren Bruce
DEPUTY EDITOR
Megan Osborne
COVER DESIGN
ELEVATOR CREATIVE [email protected] www.elevatorcreative.com.au
ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES: [email protected]
EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: [email protected]
DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES: [email protected]
GENERAL ENQUIRIES: [email protected]
www.grammagazine.com.au | www.thegramstore.com.au
BU SIE ITIK: SLOW-BRAISED DUCK
CURRY WITH PANDAN, CINNAMON
AND COCONUT MILKHujan Locale
TANDOORI SQUID: STUFFED WITH
PANEER CHEESE AND CASHEW
NUT CAULIFLOWER
Sarong
22
FEATURE
TRUFFLES: FROM HUNT TO
PLATELauren Bruce and Pia Hambour 22
22
28
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CONTRIBUTORS
DEAN SCHMIDEG
A professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is best known as one of Melbourne’s foodies and coffee obsessed, as well as the co-founder of BAR/D UP, an online video directory of our city’s best bars. He shares the things he eats and drinks, plus his own creations across social media. Dean’s posts celebrate the produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together.
FACEBOOK: imagesds / bardupmelbINSTAGRAM: dsimages / bardupmelbTWITTER: imagesDS / bardupmelbE: [email protected]
LAUREN BRUCE
Lauren started her writing career as a communications adviser before she realised she couldn’t ignore her passion for food and the arts any longer. She gave up the world of state politics to concentrate on freelance writing and styling. She has since contributed to Spook, Paper Sea and Junkee and is a regular contributor to GRAM Magazine.
laurendarcybruce.wordpress.comINSTAGRAM: brucemoosemedia
ON THE BANDWAGON
Trev has earnt a reputation in the Australian
craft beer industry as a passionate advocate for
local breweries and educating the masses about
the beer they are drinking. He is the founder and
Chair of Bendigo Beer which runs many events
including the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The
Hop festival.
TWITTER: Onthe_bandwagon
INSTAGRAM: Onthe_bandwagon
MEGAN OSBORNE
Megan Osborne is a freelance writer, but more importantly, a foodie. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine—she’s not fussy.
meganosborne.com.auTWITTER: foodiewritings INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings
GASTROLOGY
Gastrology is a Melbourne-based blog about
food and other deliciously related things.
They travel around Melbourne and sometimes
beyond, enjoying food and wine along the way
and reporting back to their readers.
www.gastrology.co
INSTAGRAM: gastrology.co
TWITTER: gastrologyco
LA DONNA DEL VINO
La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this
Melbournian with a nose attuned to all things
vinous. A self-confessed Neb Head (someone
who really digs the Nebbiolo grape), she will
happily try anything once but has a penchant
for full-bodied whites, food-friendly reds and
a good digestive. In her spare time you’ll find
her gardening, cooking, dancing, drinking
good vino or working on her country property
with her husband Wootten.
ladonnadelvino.com
TWITTER: ladonnadelvino
FACEBOOK: la-donna-del-vino
LISA HOLMEN
After spending most of my early years in Adelaide, I moved to Melbourne in my early 20s and a few years later moved to the big smoke in London. I started my blog, lisaeatsworld.com, to share my two big passions in life – food and travel.My aim is to “eat the world” one inch at a time and explore as many different cuisines and cultures as possible. My current country count is 35 and hope to reach 50 by the end of 2015.
lisaeatsworld.com
TWITTER: lisa_eatsworldINSTAGRAM: lisaeatworldFACEBOOK: lisaeatstheworld
B E N D I G Oon the hop
20 AUGUST28 BREWERIES, 56 BEERS, NO WINE, NO CIDER
tickets on sale from 1 june
www.bendigobeer.com
Showcasing the best of Australia’s independent breweries
6
NOW OPEN
HIGHER GROUNDOPENED: July 4, 2016The team behind Melbourne favourite’s The Kettle Black and Top Paddock have opened the doors to their long awaited new project, Higher Ground. Despite a delayed start due to technical issues with equipment, the wait was well and truely worth it.
Located on the corner of Little Bourke and Spencer Street, Higher Ground has had Melbourne foodies champing at the bit for well over a year. The 160-seat venue has been reimaged by DesignOffice, and transformed from power station into a modern and truely remarkable space, featuring exposed brick, green marble and jaw dropping mezzanine level.
Open seven days a week, including three nights, the menu promises to be technically intricate. Daytime diners will enjoy cauliflower scramble with house-made flatbread; roasted mushrooms with polenta; or a wagyu short-rib roll with pickled daikon.
650 LITTLE BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNEhighergroundmelbourne.com.au
instagram.com/highergroundmelbourne
MASSIOPENED: April 27, 2016Head chef and owner, Joe Vargetto has recently opened his doors to his new Sicilian restaurant, Massi, in the heart of the thriving Melbourne CBD.
With wide success of Joe’s Kew establishment, Mister Bianco since 2011, it was a natural fit to further share his Sicilian cuisine and passion for quality Italian food with authentic flavours to local business, tourists, and CBD clientele.
Open for traditional Italian colazione (breakfast bites) lunch and dinner Monday to Friday, Massi is the perfect hotspot for busy corporates to find a rich coffee, power lunches and post-work aperitif and a more intimate dinner setting.
With a point of difference offering a licensed bottle shop, by passers can purchase wine from Massi’s extensive museum of selected wines or indulge by the bar and enjoy the city nightlife.
445 LITTLE COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNEmassi.com.au | facebook.com/massirestaurant
twitter.com/massirestaurant| instagram.com/massirestaurant
FREDDIE WIMPOLES
OPENED: May 2016The highly anticipated Freddie Wimpoles is now open for business. Following a takeover from the iconic George Hotel, the name has been changed in honour of the original owner, Frederick Wimpole. The St Kilda venue is set to become a craft-beer destination of choice on Melbourne’s south side with 13 rotating taps and a warm hunting-lodge meets neon-lightAmerican diner feel.
Coming from The Local Taphouse, Wayne Seberry has taken over the kitchen at Freddie Wimpoles. Seberry took a break as a chef after finishing at The Local Taphouse in January 2015 and has been at Woodfrog Bakery until now. As an avid craft beer lover, Sebbery jumped at the opportunity to join the team. His experience in craft beer pubs all over the world worked perfectly in creating the Freddie Wimpoles menu, which focuses on sub sandwiches, hot dogs and pickled snacks - faultless beer drinking food. All meats, stocks and sauces are made in-house and bread is delivered daily from Bakery Lievito.
125 FITZROY STREET, ST KILDAfreddiewimpoles.com| facebook.com/freddiewimpoles
instagram.com/freddie_wimpoles
FOURTH CHAPTEROPENED: June 10, 2016The fourth cafe for owner Sarah Jane Whifield, Fourth Chapter brings a light airyness to High Street, Prahran. Boasting a fresh and nourishing menu, Fourth Chapter is a welcome addition to Melbourne’s food landscape.
385 HIGH STREET, PRAHRANfourthchapter.com.au
instagram.com/fourth_chapter
facebook.com/fourthchaptercafe
THE ALPS WINE SHOP AND BAROPENED: May 20, 2016The third iteration of Lyndon Kubis’ highly successful neighbourhood haunts Milton Wine Shop and Toorak Celler has opened it’s doors in Prahran.
The Alps boasts a wine list with more than 400 titles, as well as beers both on tap and in cans, and a bar menu that is everything it should be in this sophistcated wine bar.
64 COMMERCIAL ROAD, PRAHRANthealpsprahran.com
FRESH HOOD MARKETOPENED: July 16, 2016Located in a former bingo and fresh food hall on the Preston Market site, the Fresh Hood Market project aims to raise the bar on the North Side with f&b offerings from ‘Henriettas Chicken Shop’ (Albert St Food and Wine), Filipino street food masters ‘Hoy Pinoy’ (Night Noodle Markets, Queen Vic), Melbourne’s original craft beer purveyors ‘3 Ravens Brewery’ and ‘Meet Patty’…a brand new burger venture from Chef Andy Gale (Duchess of Spotswood, St Ali).
22-26 CRAMER STREET, PRESTONprestonfreshhood.com | instagram.com/prestonfreshhood
AROUND THE TRAPS
OVER THE MOO EXPANDS FLAVOUR RANGESince launching in May 2015, Over the Moo has enjoyed fantastic success.
A Melbourne made coconut milk ice cream, Over the Moo was created
because their head honcho, Alex, was tired of the same old dairy free ice
cream options.
Distributed through Woolworths and IGA, Over the Moo have this week
launched two new flavours; I FELL FOR CARAMEL: Coconut caramel ice
cream oozing with ripples of salted caramel sauce and toffee balls, and
GINGER NINJA KARATE CHOC: Coconut chocolate ice cream rammed
with chunks of gingernut cookie.
Creator Alex Houseman says: “We’re pumped to be adding to our range
with flavours that are decadent, indulgent and packed with crunchy and
gooey inclusions. Over The Moo is pushing the envelope flavour-wise but
ensuring our products remain totally dairy free, gluten free and vegan.”
The new flavours are now available in 500mL tubs at selected IGA
supermarkets in NSW, VIC, ACT and QLD. They are expected to retail at
$10.50.
WWW.OVERTHEMOO.COM.AU
MELBOURNE CAFE TAKES TOP COFFEE HONOURSMelbourne cafe Patricia has taken out top spot
in Yelp’s annual Top Coffee Poll.
To determine Australia’s top 100 coffee spots
for 2016, the data science brainiacs at Yelp
analysed which coffee places were the most
popular and well reviewed. They compared
businesses from across the country using
a ranking that considered total ratings and
number of reviews, while also accounting for
quality, popularity, and statistical fluctuations.
t’s no surprise that Melbourne holds its
reputation as the Australian city with the
highest proportion of coffee snobs. Perennial
Melbourne laneway favourite Patricia takes the
top spot and 27 Victorian businesses made the
list overall (the best of any state). The other big
surprise is Western Australia, punching well
above its weight with 25 businesses featured
in the Top 100.
Yelp's Top 100 Coffees in Australia
1. Patricia, Melbourne, VIC2. E For Ethel, North Adelaide, SA3. Social Brew, Pyrmont, NSW4. Lowdown, Perth, WA5. Bunker, Milton, QLD6. The League of Honest Coffee, Melb, VIC7. Coffee Branch, Adelaide, SA8. Monk Bodhi Dharma, Balaclava, VIC9. The Pantry on Egmont, Hawthorn, SA10. Toastface Grillah, Perth, WA11. Mister Sunshine’s, Thebarton, SA12. Brother Baba Budan, Melbourne, VIC13. Dukes Coffee Roasters, Melbourne, VIC14. Single Origin Roasters, Surry Hills, NSW15. Exchange Specialty Coffee, Ade SA16. Room 10, Potts Point, NSW17. John Mills Himself, Brisbane, QLD18. Chu Bakery, Highgate, WA19. The Kettle Black, South Melbourne, VIC20. The Old Crow, Perth, WA
the truffleshuffle
During July, we’re making
it easy to create your own delicious
truffle dishes.Visit Georgie’s Harvest
to start your Shuffle.
Photo: Tony T Photo: Amy T Photo: Bob C
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9
10
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WORDS LAUREN BRUCE PHOTOGRAPHY PIA HAMBOUR AND LAUREN BRUCE
TRUFFLESFrom The Hunt To The Plate
It goes without saying that truffles are absolutely delicious. The richness
and the perfume of this superior ingredient is unique and mysterious –
but it can be intimidating for some.
Director of Truffle Melbourne, Nigel Wood’s raison d’etre is to make
the foodstuff more accessible to the general public. Despite the many
foodies that inhabit Victoria, there are few more passionate about
truffles than Wood; and when asked why he is so dedicated to them,
his answer is simple.
“They’re just so beguiling, really,” he says. “There’s just nothing like
them.”
Although truffle farming has an enduring history in other parts of the
world, particularly Europe, it’s a relatively young practice in Australia.
The process of truffle farming intrigued Wood from the beginning. After
growing up around the food industry in Australia and beyond, it wasn’t
long before Wood developed a keen interest in the truffle farming
process. “Around 20 years ago I invested in one of the first Australian
truffieres (truffle orchards), which was in Tasmania,” Wood says.
Wood eventually acquired his own truffle farm, Truffle Paddock, and
became Secretary of the Truffle Growers’ Association, a position he held
for a number of years. “I just got more and more involved, I guess,” he
says.
Wood is currently in Melbourne launching this year’s Truffle Melbourne.
The festival is based at Melbourne’s Prahran Market, and while it’s a
celebration of all things delicious, its main focus is to educate about
truffles; namely, how they’re grown, how easy it is to cook with them,
and most importantly, how to ensure you get your money’s worth.
“People are intimidated by the product and will often go, ‘oh, I don’t
want to muck [cooking with truffle] up, it’s so expensive…’ but you know,
it’s not that hard!” Wood says. “There are fantastic exotic dishes you can
make with it, but actually, simple is often best.”
Wood says that although truffle is an expensive ingredient, he has some
tips for making a little go a long way. “When you get your truffle home,
place it on some raw eggs or risotto rice in a container in the fridge’s
crisper drawer,” he says. “Without even cooking with it yet, the truffle’s
flavours are already infusing into your food. You’ve got truffle infused
scrambled eggs sitting in your fridge!”
12
Wood isn’t alone in his truffle revolution. One of
his most formidable Truffle Melbourne supporters
is chef Guy Grossi, who is passionate about
seasonal, sustainable produce; and in particular,
truffles. Grossi often uses the funghi in dishes at
his restaurants Grossi Florentino Grossi describes
his first experiences of truffle as “elated” – and
after he got a taste for the flavour of the product,
there was no going back. “I was in love at first
sight – or taste – with that really pungent flavour
they have; and they’re so versatile as well,” Grossi
says. “When it’s in season, I use it all the time.”
While Grossi’s restaurants are at the higher end
of Melbourne’s dining establishments, Grossi
concurs with Wood that when it comes to truffle,
using modest ingredients is often key to showing
the product in its best light.
“I think the simplest dishes are the best to show
off the truffle,” Grossi says. “[At my restaurants]
we use it on dishes like pasta, risotto… we might
do a nice white pizza with fontina and then add
shaved truffle on top.
“Another dish I really enjoy doing with truffle is
something I call the Prince and the Pauper, which
is just sautéed potato, a little bit of onion and
some butter. Add pasta, and allow it to emulsify
with a little bit of stock, and then the shaved
truffle just lifts it to another level.”
Grossi says that his first Australian truffle
experience was slightly disappointing, given
truffles weren’t being grown here (the imported
truffles he tasted had been sent to him by a friend
- in the post!). “By the time they got to me, they
were really in bad condition… but you could still
smell them and taste them and it was still a really
exciting experience,” He says. But despite this,
he was still blown away by his first taste of the
unique food.
“But now, we have our own truffles growing in
Australia, and the quality is exceptional. The
smell of a Victorian grown truffle is absolutely
amazing.”
Wood says the scent, as well as the appearance,
is important in spotting a good, ripe, fresh truffle.
“Have a sniff of a few of them, if you can,” Wood
says. “There is a bit of terroir in there, like wine. So
what you’re looking for is a really attractive nose,
a nice aroma, a strong black colour with white
marbling on the inside, and for the truffle to be
firm and dry.”
What you can discern from the truffle’s perfume
seems to be the most important thing about
harvesting a truffle, according to Red Hill Truffles
owner Jenny McAuley (McAuley also plays a large
part in the Truffle Melbourne Festival). “When
you’re smelling it, take your time,” she says. “You
might smell a bit of a seafood scent, or the truffle
might smell sweet – but anything you smell is
quite legitimate. We all smell things differently.”
The smell is just the tip of the iceberg when it
comes to growing truffles, as I discovered visiting
McAuley’s farm following the Truffle Melbourne
launch. The farm in Red Hill has been in her family
since 1886. Originally an apple farm, McAuley
began growing trees with a view to harvesting
truffles on the land in 2005. “Those first trees
aren’t yet eleven years old. But I can remember
the first truffles we harvested. We ate one, and we
gave one of them to the local winery’s restaurant,
Montalto, in Red Hill. We still have a copy of the
menu that utilised that truffle, printed and framed
on our wall.”
There’s no questioning why McAuley has so much
pride in her ability to produce and maintain a
prolific truffle farm. There is quite a science to
it, and a lot of variables and challenges, when
it comes to how the truffles are grown and
harvested.
As we carefully pick our way through rows of
trees on the truffiere, McAuley explains to the
group a little bit about how the magic happens.
“The majority of what I grow on the truffiere is
the Perigord, or the black truffle, which grows on
hazelnut and oak trees,” She says.
McAuley says oak and hazelnut trees are
used because they form the best symbiotic
relationship with the truffle. “The tree likes the
truffle,” she says. “It doesn’t actually care about
the truffle itself, but it likes the active fungus and
what it does to the soil, because it kills competing
weeds around the tree. And the fungus likes the
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tree, attaching itself to the roots to soak up the
nutrients and moisture.”
McAuley says a good indication that the symbiotic
relationship between the fungus and the tree is
developing is by the “burnt” appearance of the
ground surrounding the base, called the “brulee
effect”.
“You can see the fungus is active in the soil
because the grass is dead around the tree, and
that’s called brulee,” she says. “Like crème brulee,
it has a lovely burnt top – and that’s what tells me
this tree is producing truffle.”
Of course, McAuley can’t harvest these truffles
alone – she needs a little help from a gorgeous
furry springer spaniel named Thomas. “This is one
of the few agricultural industries that’s entirely
dependent on an animal to harvest for you; and
I’m entirely dependent on Thomas to find the
truffle,” she says.
McAuley says people can get snobby about dogs
and that lots of people favour certain animals; but
after an unsuccessful experience trying to train a
favoured breed, she found Thomas, a rescue dog
that had been trained by a former military dog
trainer.
“Thomas and I just bonded,” McAuley says. “He
owns me, not the other way around! But we work
really well together. So it’s a funny sort of business
I’ve found myself in where my partner is a dog,”
she laughs.
Dogs, of course, weren’t the first animal to be
used in harvesting truffle. For over 100 years in
Europe, pigs have been used to find the delicious
funghi – and are commonly known as the animal
traditionally used in truffle hunting. “You don’t
have to train them, because they smell the scent
of testosterone on the truffle, and it smells like
their mate, so they want to eat it,” McAuley says.
“The issue is, they eat the truffle, and I don’t fancy
putting my hand down a sow’s mouth to retrieve
it!”
Wood says the sow is still widely thought of as the
animal used in truffle hunting. “People often think
about pigs,” Wood says. “The trouble with pigs is,
the sow can be 200kg or more… and trying to get
in between a sow and a truffle is not going to be
good for anyone!
“There are old European paintings of some of
the early truffle hunters using pigs, and there are
noticeably missing fingers!”
But despite all the challenges associated
with growing truffle, there’s no disputing the
mysterious appeal of the fungus for both
producers and consumers alike.
McAuley says after moving from social work to
truffle farming, she wouldn’t have it any other
way; and that, despite the complexity of the
practice, prospective truffle growers shouldn’t be
deterred from owning a farm themselves.
“I love it. It’s wonderful. It’s absolutely wonderful,”
she says. “I’m not saying growing truffles is without
stress, but it’s lovely to be growing something like
this. It’s just a matter of research, experience and
getting a feel for what you’re doing.”
Truffles hold the same fascination and passion for
Wood, which is why he is determined to spread
the word that they can be enjoyed by anyone
who puts their mind to it.
“We don’t have a culinary history with local
truffles in Australia until recently, which is why,
with Truffle Melbourne, we want to showcase
local truffles, how easy they are to cook with, and
how a little goes a long way,” he says. “We want
to get people familiar with them.
“To me, they are a lens for other flavours; they’re
a magnifier of other complimentary ingredients.
And you know, I just love opening that fridge door
and having that perfume wafting out! That’s why
this is my favourite time of year.”
But don’t take our word for it; try a truffle recipe
for yourself! This is a lovely simple pasta dish
Guy Grossi cooked for us when we visited him at
Grossi Florentino. (see over page)
14
Guy Grossi’s Taglierini with Pine Mushroom
TIP: Don’t wash the mushrooms before you cook them. Use a fine-bristled
brush such as an egg wash brush to brush off any soil etc that might be on
them instead, because you don’t want to ruin their structure with water.
Serves 6
FOR THE PASTA
Ingredients:
28 egg yolks
500g. Pangkarra wholegrain durum flour from Clare Valley
Method:
1. Place all the ingredients into a mixing bowl with the dough hook
attachment and mix on slow speed until smooth dough has formed. Wrap
and refrigerate for two hours, allowing the dough to rest before using.
2. Cut the pasta dough in half and roll through the pasta roller on the widest
opening. Fold and roll through again and repeat this until the dough is silky
smooth in texture, then roll through the pasta roller through the settings
until 2mm in thickness. Cut the pasta sheet into 20cm pieces.
3. Roll through the taglierini cutter or if you haven’t got a cutter, flour the
sheets thoroughly and stack together, then cut with a sharp knife into 5mm
wide pasta strips.
4. Roll into 100g portions.
TO ASSEMBLE THE DISH
Ingredients:
150ml extra virgin olive oil
15g garlic, crushed
750g pine mushrooms, sliced
120g unsalted butter
30g flat leaf parsley, chopped
90g Reggiano Parmigiano, grated
Salt and cracked black pepper, to taste
30g Australian black truffle
Method:
1. Bring a pot of salted water to the boil.
2. Heat a pan on moderate heat with the olive oil and cook the garlic for a
few seconds to infuse the oil mix in the mushrooms, and mix continuously
for a minute. Add the butter and parsley season with salt and pepper.
3. Drop the pasta in the boiling water and mix gently to separate strands.
Cook al dente for two minutes; strain and add to pasta with the Parmesan
to the pan. Mix vigorously to emulsify, adding a little of the pasta water to
the pan, and plate.
4. Shave Australian truffle over the top and serve immediately.
How Good! On Friday August 5th participating cafes will be donating $1 from every coffee sold to support people who are homeless. All proceeds go to the great work done by StreetSmart!
Don’t forget to pop in to your nearest participating cafe on the 5th, buy yourself a coffee and leave a matching $1 donation.
See you then! :)
Find a participating cafe streetsmartaustralia.org
Like/Share/Follow @StreetSmartAust #CafeSmart
2016 Partners:
05 AUGUST 16
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Walking into the restaurant located at Sheraton Melbourne Hotel on Little
Collins Street guests are greeted with a calming Jade interior that creates
a sense of ease. Once seated and ready to peruse the menu the array of
dishes that are designed to share leaves you instantly picking favourites to
suggest to your dining companion.
The menu features a delicious array of options courtesy of recently
appointed head chef Gang Qian, known as Ben, who has previously worked
at the Radisson Blu Plaza Xingguo Hotel in Shanghai - a restaurant that
only serves two tables per day, in which usually sit presidents, government
officials, and royalty on various occasions.
We loved eating our way through the menu.
To start, a selection of signature HuTong group dim sums are a must-have.
While many Chinese restaurants serve dumplings, EAST’s variety are a cut
above. Their Xiao Long Bao in particular impressed. The allure of these
dumplings lie in their gracefully delicate pastry skin enveloping rich pork-
seasoned broth.
Usefully, EAST’s staff are on hand to provide instructions on the
recommended steps for consuming the Xiao Long Bao - steps which
involve piercing the pastry skin to suck out the broth within and then
subsequently flavouring the remaining pastry and minced pork dumpling
with black vinegar and shredded ginger. These soupy morsels may demand
more effort than your run-of-the-mill pork dumpling, but we assure you
will be rewarded.
An absolute show stopper was the premium steamed black truffle juicy
pork dumplings. The steamed pork dumplings were infused with shaved
truffle and truffle oil and tasted nothing short of amazing. It was a decadent
dumpling with fragrant aromas.
For mains the Slow Cooked Shanghainese Lamb with Sweet Soy Sauce
and Tea Smoked Duck were lovely.
The Shanghainese Lamb was beautifully tender and full of flavour while
the dish of Fragrant & Crispy Duck with Steamed Bun had us fighting for
the last morsel. The fluffy and moist buns were a lovely canvas for the
velvety duck flesh and its perfectly crisp skin.
For dessert, EAST’s take on the traditional fried ice cream was delicious.
The ice cream was coated in a crisp coconut and bread crumb coating that
was ethereally light. It was a pleasant end to our meal.
To match, the beverage menu at EAST is a well curated list. There is a
diverse selection of cocktails that are refreshingly inventive. Think the
Red Ginger made with white rum, lime juice, sugar syrup, fresh strawberry,
mint leaves that are pummeled together and topped with ginger ale or for
something creamier the Peanut Butter Mudslide made with vodka, baileys,
Kahlua and peanut butter that are shaken together and twirled with cream.
There are a number of beers on the menu, both Australian and imported,
and a diverse wine list.
If you are after something more traditional EAST also serve premium
Chinese tea with flavours including the delicate and slightly floral
Chrysanthemum tea, Tai Hu Green Bamboo tea which is perfect to assist in
energising you post meal, and the Rose Flower tea that is a great choice if
you are wanting to warn off the upcoming flu season as it assists in helping
the body fight colds.
Incredibly versatile and exceedingly delicious, EAST is perfect for a business
luncheon, after work Chinese tapas with work friends or a weekend dinner
with loved ones.
EAST BAR AND RESTAURANT
25 Little Collins Street, Melbourne
PH: (03) 9650 8838
eastrestaurant.com.au
FACEBOOK: eastbarandrestaurant
EAST BAR AND RESTAURANT
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY GASTROLOGY
18
Foodies have another reason to flock to the seaside suburb of Williamstown
with the much-anticipated opening of George Calombaris’ and Travis
McAuley’s Hellenic Hotel.
I was lucky enough to attend the soft launch earlier in the month to get a
sneak peek of the restaurant and, of course, sample the menu.
Converted from one of the west’s most iconic pub buildings, the Hobsons
Bay Hotel, the Hellenic Hotel opening has breathed new life into the
heritage building. The façade still remains largely the same, but venture
inside and you’ll be in for a treat.
It’s an incredibly handsome venue, with lofty ceilings and a distinct
nautical feel. It plays on a kaleidoscope of ocean blues and, like all of
Calombaris’ restaurants, pays homage to its Greek heritage by using the
Greek Matiasma “the evil eye” on its plates. There’s plenty of exposed brick
and piping which gives it a contemporary feel, warmed up by the use of
greenery throughout the venue. Patrons have the option of dining in the
buzzy tavern downstairs, or enjoying a cocktail and some pub fare in the
public bar upstairs. There’s also a spacious verandah with spectacular
views of the seaside and city skyline. Bring on summer in Williamstown!
Crafted by head chef Josh Pelham (ex Estelle), the menu showcases
modern Greek dining, which Calombaris likes to call “Gastro Greek” – a
Hellenic touch on great Ausssie pub food. Diners can expect to feast
on freshly shucked oysters, local seafood and all the Greek classics like
souvlakis, lamb and rotisserie chicken served piping hot from the open
kitchen. The drinks menu features a great range of local and Hellenic wines
and of course the traditional Greek aperitif- ouzo if you’re feeling game!
The feed me menu at $49 per person (seven courses), is a great option for
the indecisive and/or hungry! And at the end of a chilly Melbourne day, this
was the perfect option…
We started with a bowl of warm Mount Zero Olives marinated in garlic,
thyme and olive oil paired with freshly baked pita and taromosalata (white
HELLENIC HOTELWORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LISA HOLMEN
19
cod roe dip). This was so good we had to request more pita to mop up
every last bit.
This was followed by a sizzling plate of saganaki, finished with apple,
clove and black sesame which gave the dish a delicate spicy flavour and
a touch of sweetness. With a gorgeous golden gleam on top, the fried
cheese literally oozed from the middle upon cutting.
A comforting bowl of kritharaki was infused with squid ink to give it a
jet black colour and finished with a sprinkling of mussels and fennel. This
was definitely one of the highlights of the evening.
Straight from the rotisserie, the chicken was succulent and tender, with a
crispy golden skin. The side dishes included a heirloom carrot salad with
fenugreek and roasted almonds and my personal favourite – beetroot
paired with sumac and a dusting of pistachios.
We finished on a sweet note with a risagolo (a rice pudding of sorts)
topped with rhubarb and candied pistachios. Next time I have my sight
set on the pavlova which looked large enough to serve a small army, and
the passionfruit loukoumades. I’m getting hungry just thinking about it.
Hellenic Hotel makes a welcome addition to Williamstown and will no
doubt develop a loyal following from locals and tourists alike. It may be
two years overdue, but it was certainly worth the wait.
HELLENIC HOTEL WILLIAMSTOWN
A 28 Ferguson Street, Williamstown, Vic 3016
T (03) 9393 1000
hellenicrepublic.com.au
20
GRAM FEATURE
THINGS WE LOVE
The Neff Market Kitchen at the South Melbourne
Market hosts up-close and personal cooking
experiences with some of Melbourne’s favourite
chefs.
From their Visit India: Curries and Kebabs
Market2Table class with Hansika Menon on August 6,
to the Street Eats: The Perfect Burger Master Class
with Paul Tyas, head chef at The Grosvenor Hotel
on August 31, there will be a class to suit everyone’s
appetite.
With classes limited to 12 people, the Neff Market
Kitchen is an intimate venue where you not only
learn amazing culinary skills, you also get to enjoy
the delicious meals at the end over a glass of wine.
For more information about the Neff Market Kitchen
cooking classes visit SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.
COM.AU/COOKING-SCHOOL
FROM INDIAN CURRIES TO THE PERFECT BURGER
LITTLE BRIXTON SAUCES AND MARINADES
The Little Brixton story started in Jamaica, developed in England, and has finally
come to life in Australia.
Founded by Richard Johnson and his Aussie partner Sechelle, he was surrounded
by British culture, and raised in Brixton, in a Jamaican home that was bursting with
music, good food and generous hospitality.
With a traditional Jamaican jerk marinade as well as a couple of sauces – Rum and
BBQ Sauce and the award winning Jerk Mustard Sauce, Little Brixton brings a little
bit of Brixton to Melbourne with all natural quality ingredients, no shortcuts and
lots of love.
Order online at LITTLEBRIXTON.COM or check our stockists page on the website.
21
THINGS WE LOVE
FOUR PILLARS BLOODY SHIRAZ
Bloody Shiraz Gin is the latest release from the distillers at Four Pillars Gin in Healesville.
They’ve taken shiraz grapes, steeped the fruit in the gin for eight weeks, then squeezed the berries into
even more Rare Dry Gin to create Bloody Shiraz Gin. The spirit has a gorgeous purple colour which
turns bright pink when mixed, with hints of raspberry, juniper and spice.
Launched on World Gin Day on June 11, there is limited supply which is available on the website www.
fourpillarsgin.com.au or at the Four Pillars Distillery, 2A Lilydale Road, Healesville VIC 3777.
Enquiries - [email protected]
FOURPILLARSGIN.COM.AU
In2tea was born from a love of tea and adventure - while travelling overseas
Melbourne sisters Hannah and Kate discovered a tea extract that could
dissolve instantly into hot or cold water. Amazed by the delicious taste
and stunningly simple design, they were compelled to bring this unique
tea to Australia.
A few more adventures later In2tea was born - using only USDA certified
organic tea and 100% natural ingredients, In2tea’s tea extracts are created
using nano-extraction technology and a low-heat evaporation over 72
hours, resulting in naturally high antioxidant levels and a clean tea flavour.
The tea lasts up to 12 hours once dissolved and comes in convenient
individual sachets, making it perfect to add to your water bottle, take to
work or blend with your juices and smoothies.
Currently available online at WWW.IN2TEA.COM.AU with complimentary
shipping Australia wide.
INSTAGRAM.COM/IN2TEA_AUSTRALIA
IN2TEA
23
The terms ‘paddock to plate’ and ‘farm to table’ have surpassed being
trendy, to the point of being overused, but it says something about the
feeling in the market that adding those labels (authentic or not), purvey
value to a consumer.
The theory behind the words is basically one of; love local, and popularity
aside, it’s a valid stance to take. The benefits of choosing local produce are
many, from supporting your nearby, independent growers, to embracing
(and understanding) seasonal produce, to simply enjoying fresher—and
therefore tastier—food on your plate.
While it is such a drawcard, and a definite promo-worthy phrase, you’d
actually be hard pressed to not find regional Victorian produce amongst
some of Melbourne’s best restaurants and cafes. From edible flowers
and micro greens, to free-range livestock, to absolutely delicious dairy,
we looked into why Melbourne is lucky enough to have some of the best
produce around.
Susie Young and George Bobin are a father daughter team that run B&B
Basil, a micro green specialist based out of Bendigo. Starting out in 2000,
their hydroponically grown basil was a huge hit, leading them to expand
not only in size, but into the micro green market, too.
So what are micro greens? A lot of emphasis is put on the way a meal looks
now, especially in some of Melbourne’s most popular dining spots. While
this doesn’t always speak for the flavour of the dish, in regards to micro
greens, it sure does! If you get served up a plate of almost-too-pretty-to-
eat food, you may notice small leaves and perhaps edible flowers sitting on
top. The great thing about these little add-ons, Susie Young tells us, is that
they don’t lack in the flavour department. ‘I think that’s why micro greens
have gotten so popular and they’ve stayed popular,’ she says; ‘because
you’re not missing out on anything. They’ve even got all the same vitamins
and minerals of the larger plants.’ In fact, some of the herbs and greens in
their micro format actually provide a stronger flavour, Young tells us, such
as; ‘rocket and radishes, which can get a bit more peppery as they get
older.’
B&B Basil grow their plants in hydroponic sheds, which are undercover
and protected. This means no pests, and no spraying. ‘It’s a very controlled
environment’, Young tells us, from the water, to the temperature, to the
WHY MELBOURNE LOVES REGIONAL VICTORIAN
PRODUCEWORDS MEG OSBORNE
24
organic soil that’s placed in the pot. About 80% of the B&B Basil business
goes through distributors to eateries in Melbourne, with a production
quantity of around 30,000 units a week! The popularity of the micro green
market—and Melbourne restaurants’ desire to stay local—has enabled the
business to grow and expand over time, and also discover new ways to
innovate. ‘We’ll keep dabbling on growing things in the dark and looking
at different grow lights, as the innovation changes out in the market’ says
Young, as well as focussing on different sources of heating and solar options.
What B&B Basil offer will also be expanding, with the team looking into
a more mature leaf and devising specialty salad blends. Young tells us,
‘flowers are in such high demand, everybody is loving edible flowers at
the moment.’ But there are also a few very unique flavours that seem to
be increasing in popularity; lemon balm and red shiso. Part of what makes
the business so successful, is sussing out the movement in the market
according to Young, who’s next step is to; ‘Get out into the marketplace
and talk to more chefs, finding out what’s next, what could they possibly
want us to grow.’
In the case of B&B Basil, they’ve found an area in which they can develop
a superior product, and become experts in it. The success shows through
the massive reception Melbourne restaurants and cafes have shown the
micro green product, and it’s ongoing. A trend we’ve found consistent
amongst regional producers, is often they specialise, and their products
hold a unique point of difference that makes them so attractive to the city
dining destinations.
McIvor Farms in Tooborac, Victoria, are proud to farm old breed Berkshire
pigs, with a holistic farming outlook they tout as ‘beyond free-range’. The
system is devised around utilising the pigs’ natural behavioural tendencies
to roam dig, and disturb the soil, with the result being regenerating the
land. Husband and wife duo Jason and Belinda Hagan inherited the farm
from Jason’s family (three generations in Tooborac), along with a passion
for pigs and sustainable, environmentally friendly farming.
Belinda Hagan tells us that maintaining the beyond free-range philosophy;
‘can be a challenge when seasons are difficult’, but that the priority is around
farming the soil, and managing the animals as best they can. Essentially
the view is this; if the soil is respected through farming, Hagan tells us
‘it’s not about taking the most out of it. It’s actually putting back into it.’
This means that healthy plants will grow, followed by healthy animals, ergo
healthy food. The process of rejuvenating the soil is a slow and careful one
that they manage through the pigs’ natural behaviour. Hagan tells us that
on McIvor Farms, priorities have developed into bolder statements; ‘[What]
Began about the animals and giving them a better life, and having a system
that was very high in ethics and welfare, has become so much more than
that now.’ The Hagan’s biggest passion is bringing life back to the land and
building an ecosystem from the ground up—literally. ‘Both Jason and I are
fortunate to do what we love,’ Hagan tells us. ‘We are not saying it’s easy…
it’s actually bloody hard work! But McIvor Farm and us can only do what we
do with the support of customers.’
McIvor Farms are big believers in local produce on local plates, which is
why 100% of their perfect pork ends up in Victoria. It can be found across
PHOTO: AMANDA MALONE
25
Melbourne and the central Victoria region at markets, butchers, providores
and even restaurants, with the likes of Grossi Florentino and Ombra Salumi
Bar putting the paddock to plate statement into practice. Popular dishes
are pork belly, Belinda Hagan tells us, but they’re also seeing a rise in pork
cheek, advising us to check out Masons’ in Bendigo. ‘[They] do this amazing
‘crackle pin-wheel’’, she says, stating that she loves seeing the full circle,
resulting in ‘great produce, from great chefs’.
Great produce on Melbourne plates is becoming more accessible by the
minute, and Yarra Valley Dairy is a name you’re probably familiar with living
in Melbourne. Not only is it a well known brand and locally celebrated, but
it’s also an easy drive out of Melbourne into the Yarra Valley—a must stop
on your next winery trip! Yarra Valley Dairy uses fresh cow’s milk from
nearby dairy farms, and goat’s milk from Gippsland to create their artisan
cheeses. ‘Winemaking and cheesemaking have a real similarity, because
it’s about the terroir, about the land, about what the cows are eating and
how well they’re looked after,’ Yarra Valley Dairy Brand Manager Catherine
McCarthy tells us.
McCarthy informs us that the produce used to create the cheese is important,
but a lot of credit goes to the cheesemaker. ‘It’s one thing to make the
cheese, but it’s actually in what you do with it and how you treat it and how
you mature it that will really contribute to it’s flavour profile.’ She says. Head
Cheesemaker Jack Holman is a forager from way back, experimenting with
Australian ‘bush native’ flavours, such as eucalyptus and wattle during the
cheesemaking process, as well as collaborating with nearby Four Pillars
Distillery to create a botanical flavoured rind. Restaurants are innovating
in their own way, producing stunning savoury and sweet ice creams and
dessert with Yarra Valley Dairy curds.
If you take the short trip north of Melbourne, you’ll be met with an unassuming
tin shed, that modestly hides a stunning interior and breathtaking views.
Boasting a cellar door featuring twenty independent wine makers in the
area, it’s not all about the cheese at Yarra Valley Dairy (but it is, mostly
about the cheese, and we’re more than fine with that, too.)
Yarra Valley Dairy have become so popular in Melbourne, you can
purchase their craftfully creamy products at delis, grocers and even some
supermarkets around town. The brand is thriving, stocking internationally
in the United States, and makes a cheesy appearance on Emirates and
Qantas domestic and international flights. Although Melbourne and greater
Victoria still embrace it as one of their favourites, with some of Melbourne’s
best restaurants such as The Press Club approaching them to make some
unique cheesy delights. Again, the lure of local is well-loved in Melbourne.
‘The value of people eating locally is kind of a no brainer really,’ says
McCarthy, and we couldn’t agree more!
If this article has left you feeling hungry, you could always cook up a
decadent McIvor pork cheek, sprinkle some stunning B&B Basil micro
greens on top, and serve with a creamy Yarra Valley Dairy goat’s cheese
salad. Just a thought. #Paddocktoplate
26
INGREDIENTS
Serves 2
ITIK DUCK CURRY PASTE
4 shallots
12 cloves garlic
80 dried long red chillies
10 cinnamon sticks
10 knobs turmeric, peeled
50 candlenuts
2 teaspoons white pepper
2 teaspoons black pepper
Spice Mix
3 teaspoons cumin seeds
3 teaspoons coriander seeds
DUCK CURRY
1 braised duck
½ cup vegetable oil
3 salam leaves
1 stalk lemongrass, bruised
3 pieces white cardamom
1g curry leaves
1 pandan leaf, tied
2 cups sie itik curry paste
Salt, to taste
35g coconut milk
TO SERVE
Fried curry leaves
Fried red curly chillies
A sprig coriander leaves
BU SIE ITIKSlow-braised duck curry with pandan, cinnamon and coconut milk
RECIPE BY HUJAN LOCALE
METHOD
ITIK DUCK CURRY PASTE
Blend all ingredients into fine paste. Set aside.
SPICE MIX
Grind all ingredients into powder.
DUCK CURRY
Marinate the duck by rubbing the spice mix into
the meat. Leave for at least an hour.
Heat oil in a large pot. Add salam leaves, bruised
lemongrass, cardamom, curry leaves and pandan
leaves and cook until the spices are aromatic.
Add in the curry paste and cook until fragrant.
Add in the spiced duck, ensuring the paste is
covering the duck. Pour over the coconut milk
and bring to the boil.
Slowly simmer for 1.5 hours until duck is soft and
tender. Ensure the duck stays submerged in the
liquid at all times.
Once the duck is cooked, remove from the liquid
onto a resting rack.
Reduce the braising liquid until thick, like a
rendang. Adjust the sauce to your liking with
more of the spices, salt and pepper.
Once the sauce is ready, cut your duck into
smaller serving-size pieces. Add back into the
curry sauce and reheat.
TO SERVE
Garnish with fried curry leaves, fried curly chilli
and coriander.
RECIPES FROM FLAVOURS OF BALI
The latest publication from Melbourne based Smudge
Publishing in the award-winning Flavours Of series,
Flavours of Bali.
The beautifully presented book showcases the diverse
dining scene in Bali, from fine dining at remarkable
restaurants to sunset cocktails at beachside bars.
With stunning visuals, signature recipes and profiles
of the island’s top chefs, Flavours of Bali offers a
comprehensive guide to all the Bali dining scene has
to offer.
Flavours of Bali
$80 – Available at all good bookshops and online:
smudgeeats.com.au/product/flavours-of-bali/
27
28
29
INGREDIENTS
Serves 5
RAITA YOGHURT
2 tablespoons diced onion
2 tablespoons diced tomato
2 tablespoons diced cucumber
1 cup plain yoghurt
1 pinch salt
1 teaspoon garam masala
1 teaspoon chat masala
VEGETABLE FILLING
1 piece cauliflower, boiled
3 pieces medium potatoes, boiled and peeled
2 cups paneer – bought from your local Indian
supplier or use ricotta
Oil, to sauté
2 tablespoons ajwan seeds
4 tablespoons garlic, peeled and chopped
10 long green chillies, chopped
1 tablespoon chat masala
1 tablespoon chilli powder
1 tablespoon turmeric powder
1 cup cashew nut, chopped
1 handful coriander leaves, chopped
½ tablespoon salt
TANDOORI SQUID
2 pieces squids, cleaned and washed
2 tablespoons cheddar cheese
MINT CHUTNEY
5 green birds eye chillies
1 large bunch coriander, leaves only
1 large bunch mint, leaves only
30ml rice vinegar
2 cups plain yoghurt
2 tablespoons garam masala
2 tablespoons chat masala
GARNISH
2 pieces radicchio lettuce
2 pieces cucumber sticks
2 sprigs coriander leaves
3 slices red onion rings
2 lime cheeks
TANDOORI SQUID Stuffed with Paneer Cheese and Cashew Nut Cauliflower
RECIPE BY SARONG
METHOD
RAITA YOGHURT
Combine diced onion, tomato and cucumber with the
yoghurt. Season with the salt, garam masala and chat masala
to taste. Transfer to the fridge until ready to use.
VEGETABLE FILLING
Prepare your vegetable filling by grating boiled cauliflower
and potato. Crumble together, then mix together with paneer.
The mixture should still have texture.
Heat oil in a pan, sauté ajwan seed, garlic and green chillies.
Add the crumbled vegetable mix and the rest of the
ingredients. Check the seasoning.
TANDOORI SQUID
Fill ½ cup of vegetable mixture into each squid and add
2 tablespoons of cheddar cheese. Cook in the tandoori oven
for 7 minutes or bake in your oven for 30 minutes.
MINT CHUTNEY
Combine chillies, coriander and mint leaves and pulse in the
blender for a minute. Add in the rice vinegar and mix with the
yoghurt. Season with garam masala and chat masala. This is
best used immediately.
TO SERVE
Serve squid on a plate with raita yoghurt and mint chutney on
the side. Garnish with radicchio, cucumber sticks, coriander,
onion and lime.
30
When you put four mates together anything is bound
to happen, usually involving lots of alcohol and mass
destruction. However if they all join forces in the
name of good instead of evil and drink coffee instead,
imagine what amazing things can be created. This
is the story of Four Rascals, also known as Richard,
Goran, Simon and Mei. The little blurb on their website
says it so well that I had no other option but to
duplicate it word for word - “They figured they could
break the whole coffee roasting thing down to three
easy-to-follow steps: 1. Don’t blow up the roaster 2.
Don’t strangle each other 3. Make awesome coffee.”
And that’s exactly what they did.
The most popular of their blends is called Rapscallion,
a predominantly Arabica blend of seven origins
including India, Brazil, Guatemala, Nicaragua, Mexico,
Honduras and Ethiopia, producing a strong brew that’s
a little sweet, a little feisty, with loads of character, just
as a cheeky rascal should be. Easy to tune and working
really well with both black and milk based coffees
were the reasons Michael Pelosi decided to use it at
his new cafe The Faculty in Hawthorn. With a passion
for customer service and prior hospitality experience,
he has wanted to have his own cafe since the age of 16
with the aim of looking after patrons with quality food
and coffee. In a well established suburb and an area
dominated by private schools, when people move
here they usually stay and want to go somewhere they
are treated well and their faces are remembered. A bit
of a rogue himself, Michael’s choice of Four Rascals
was the perfect choice and the result is a consistent
brew that pleases the locals who keep coming back.
TO HAVE YOUR OWN CHEEKY RAPSCALLION
EXPERIENCE, HERE ARE FOUR RASCALLY CAFES
SERVING IT UP WITH A SMILE
The Faculty - 302 Barkers Rd, Hawthorn The Ambrosiary - 70 Portman St OakleighHappymaree - 229 Somerville Rd, YarravilleFugazza - 5 Equitable Pl, CBD
REVIEWS
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG
FOUR RASCALS COFFEE - RAPSCALLION BLEND
Ok, I think that’s about the worst pun yet. Never fear,
we’re only halfway through the year I’m sure I can
come up with worse.
Southern Bay Brewing, based in Moolap just outside
of Geelong is well known in the industry as a
dependable contract brewer. But while the gang have
contributed much to the craft beer scene by making
other people’s beers, in recent times the pendulum
has swung back to a more even keel.
In 2011, the brewery was a split of about 80% contract
and 20% their own range. Now however, it’s around
50-50 which has given Head Brewer Phil Rutjens and
his team much needed confidence to experiment and
show off their skills. Thanks to a 50 litre pilot system
they can try something outside the box while not
worrying about a huge bill if it’s not quite right. Which
brings me to the latest limited release, their 2016
version of the Vanilla Oatmeal Stout.
After widespread acclaim from beer drinkers in 2015,
there was no hesitation to bring it back. I asked
Southern Bay’s Sales Manager Paul Lucas if they were
brave enough to tinker with a winning recipe. “The
success we experienced with the Vanilla Oatmeal
Stout last year was amazing and it really put us in the
spotlight as a brewery in our own right. We just had to
do it again, but the only change is a slight adjustment
down to the amount of Vanilla to allow the other
characteristics to shine as well”.
While I enjoy a measured vanilla hit in a dark brew, I
believe the decision to temper it second time around
was a great move. Let’s face it, if you use 8 different
specialty malts to deliver what is a delightful smooth
experience of chocolate and coffee, it would be a
shame to overpower it. I loved this beer and highly
recommend you give it a try! You can get Southern
Bay Vanilla Oatmeal Stout at all most beer venues and
bottle shops around Victoria. Catch the Southern Bay
guys and 27 other breweries at Bendigo On The Hop
on Saturday 20 August which will be showcasing over
50 different beers in what should be a great day out!
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY TREV BIRKS - ON THE BANDWAGON
SOUTHERN BAY VANILLA OATMEAL STOUT - VANILLA NICE NICE BABY
ABV: 6.5%STYLE: Sweet StoutSERVING TEMP: 6-8 degreesFOOD PAIRING: Braised beef cheek or vanilla custard tartORIGIN: Geelong, VictoriaPRICE (RRP): $9-12 500ml bottleBUY IT HERE: www.southernbay.com.au
31
BAR/D UP Video FeaturePanama Dining Room & Bar // Fitzroy
Panama, a transcontinental country in Central
America, an international hub, a melting pot of
people and cultures from around the world. A
combination of Latin, American and European
influences, it’s modern yet still steeped in
history. Take these elements, put them into a
bar in Fitzroy, one of Melbourne’s more diverse
suburbs and you have The Panama Dining
Room.
High above Smith Street, overlooking the
treetops and the old buildings, this highly
regarded venue blends 70’s class with a touch
of grunge to give patrons a relaxed experience
without compromising on quality drinks and
food. It’s a restaurant, a bar, a place you can have
a game of pool and if you want you can even
have your wedding here. Specialising in single
vineyard wines, cocktails made with craft spirits
and great local and international brews, the
European inspired menu
also traverses countries
in a way that is uniquely
Australian. Don’t forget
the $1 oyster happy hour every night from 6pm
- 7pm, perfect with a glass of bubbles.
A loft conversion with exposed brick walls,
Panama like the country it’s named after
embraces the past but isn’t scared to be
innovative. It’s a fusion of all things good
without being pretentious in any way. It’s a multi
purpose space where you can start the night
in one area then move around and continue
to party without having to leave, especially on
Fridays and Saturdays from 10pm when the DJ
starts his first set. With friendly, knowledgeable
staff to look after you from beginning to end, a
trip to Panama is just what the doctor ordered.
Once upon a time I worked at the architecturally
brilliant Shadowfax Winery in Werribee South. It
was located three minutes from where I grew up
so was the ideal location to boost my knowledge
of viticulture and winemaking whilst studying both
subjects. The vineyard at the property hosted red
grape varieties like Shiraz with some Pinot Noir.
Truth be told, the Pinot often did not ripen so well so
was used in the rose’ blend. That all changed with a
bold decision by the winemaker, Matt Harrop, and his
team to pull out some of the underperforming vines
and plant something new. Their idea was to plant
varieties that should be more at home in the area.
The obscure eastern region of Savoie in France was
their inspiration with varieties like Grenache, Mataro,
Cinsault and Mondeuse. If people didn’t think Harrop
was crazy before, they sure did now. The wait was
then on to see how they would perform.
I think this may be the only 100% Mondeuse made
in Australia. I purchased it late last year and I’m not
sure why I resisted from opening it until now. From
what I have been told, it sold out from the winery in
48 hours to bars, restaurants and retailers and now
the wait is on for the new release.
Why such a buzz? It’s not just the label featuring
Biggie Smalls (The Notorious B.I.G) or that Mondeuse
is just something new for the Australian palate. This
is an excellent wine filled with plenty of character.
Not overloaded with sugar, think instead savoury
and spice and all things nice. As a more savoury-
driven style of red, Mondeuse ticks all the boxes with
earthy fruit (think wild berry fruits on a forest floor),
supple acidity, smoky nuances and a good amount
of tannin. It’s more medium-bodied than full, so
suited the veal scallopine alla Marsala dish that was
prepared wonderfully.
STOCKISTS: 2016 released in early Spring and be
quick, check out Blackhearts & Sparrows wine stores
at their various locations from September.
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LA DONNA DEL VINO
SHADOWFAX MONDEUSE 2015Werribee South, Victoria - RRP $28
PANAMA DINING ROOM & BAR
2/231 SMITH STREET, FITZROY 3065
9417 7663
thepanama.com.au
In collaboration with The Melbourne Gin Company
32
OUT AND ABOUT
WORLD GIN DAY Three years on and World Gin Day is still the highlight of the drinking calendar at Melbourne’s Gin Palace. This year there was a West Winds lunch hosted by Jason Chan, a Four Pillars high tea with Samuel Ng, not to mention cheeky martini massages with the Plymouth Gin team,
a bathtub full of Hendricks punch and 2 for 1 drinks all afternoon featuring these gins together with an awesome one from Rogue Society in New Zealand.PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG
33
THE DIARY
10 August, 2016P.J.O’BRIEN’S WINTER WHISKEY TASTINGHill Showgrounds, 180 Arthurs Seat Road, Red Hill South
On Wednesday August 10 PJ O’Brien’s will take whiskey lovers on a tour around the different regions of Scotland to explore the variety and distinction that each region has to offer on the whiskey front.
Complete with a matched three course dinner and hosted by an expert brand ambassador we will dive into some of the most renowned whiskeys such as Macallan, Highland Park, Bowmore, Auchentoshan, Ardmore and even venturing to the west coast of Ireland to see what Connemara has to offer.
Throughout the night we will explore every corner of Scotland from the Lowlandsand Islay, to the Highlands and Islands, and discover what makes each region unique.
Bookings essentail. Contact Cian O’Brien: 9686 5011 or email [email protected]
All through JulyTHE TRUFFLE SHUFFLESouth Melbourne Market
During July, we’re making it easy to create your own delicious truffle dinner party!
From Saturday 2 July you can:1. Visit Georgie’s Harvest on the Coventry Street side of the Market and let them know you’re there for the Truffle Shuffle
2. Choose the dishes you want to cook from our recipe cards – a full dinner party or just one truffle dish
3. Do the Truffle Shuffle through the Market to pick up all the ingredients – traders are listed on the recipe cards
4. Head home and follow the simple recipes
5. Enjoy a delicious truffle inspired dinner
Alternatively you can download South Melbourne Market’s delicious truffle recipes from southmelbournemarket.com.au
Georgie’s Havest source their Australian truffles from the following regions:Forrest Truffles – Otways, VictoriaTamar Valley Truffles – TasmaniaManjimup Western Australia
21 July 2016BOATROCKER BEER ACADEMY - CRAFT BEER DINNERAcademy Kitchen & Bar, 318 Bridge Road, Richmond
Boatrocker Brewery has teamed up with Academy Kitchen & Bar to bring you a relaxed and social craft beer evening and an opportunity to experience the ever-growing trend of pairing food with beer.
Adam Holliday of Boatrocker Brewing is co-hosting this exciting craft beer event with Academy head chef and owner, Will Manning.
Adam will present information throughout the evening on food and beer matching, as well as provide an insight into the much-loved local Boatrocker Brewery and the beer making process. Accomplished chef, Will Manning has designed a 4 course tasting menu showcasing Academy’s new winter menu. The dishes include hearty winter warmers, such as pork belly and beef cheek. As always, Academy delivers a perfectly balanced, upmarket home-cooking feel.
Bookings now open via [email protected] or 9427 8231.
Cost: $80 per person for four courses and matching beers
All through JulyWINTER GRAZECirca, The Prince
Every Sunday through winter, indulge in a winter-inspired luncheon from award winning Circa kitchen.
Using expertly sourced, seasonal produce, Circa Head Chef, Rhys Blackley has crafted a weekly menu to please any palate. Pair that with a perfectly matched glass of wine ... winter’s not looking so bad after all.
ON THE MENU
Sunday, 19th June
Entrees
Kinkawooka mussels w. guanciale + friggitelli peppersCobia sashimi w. ponzu + purple daikonSmoked quail w. butternut + spiced pepitasMains
Wood grilled Seven’s Creek wagyu Brisket served w.local wild mushrooms + organic Japanese spinachSunday, 26th June
Entrees
Victorian pigeon w. almonds + cured egg yolkBBQ king prawns w. fennel, pernod + orangenLocal wild mushrooms w. biodynamic farroMains
Slow roasted Flinder’s Island lamb shoulder served w. Jerusalem artichokes + wild nettle
What: Sunday Winter Graze$55 | 2 courses $65 | 3 courses When: Every Sunday through winterWhere: Circa, The PrinceWant: Call (03) 9562 1122 or email [email protected]
5 August, 2016BOOZY BOTANICALSJardin Tan, Melbourne Gardens, Birdwood Avenue
Commencing with tasting Maidenii’s cocktails at Jardin Tan, learn about the process of turning grains into alcohol and some history about vermouth! Then enjoy a walk and talk through the Gardens led by Tim Entwisle, botanical extraordinaire, and Shaun Byrne, self-professed bar-geek of Maidenii.
During the walk, you will get up close and personal to the plants and botanicals used in popular drinks. Your senses will be enlivened and you will learn more about the fascinating plants used in popular drinks. You may even learn a tip or two about growing these botanical ingredients at home!
Bookings required$45 per person$40.50 Friends’ members
T 03 9252 2429 for more information.
23 July, 2016BOOTS IN THE BARREL HALLHelen’s Hill Estate, 16 Ingram Road, Lilydale
Hled at Helen’s Hill Estate in Lilydale, Boots in the Barrel Hall is a Chardonnay Master Class which explores the winemakers grape and the many styles in which it is made. The event features Chardonnay from all around Australia and presented by the entertaining Allan Nalder, Owner of Helen’s Hill Estate.Bookings are essential. Please call Helen’s Hill Estate for for information.
WHAT IS GRAM MAGAZINE?An unashamedly easy read, GRAM has been designed to be uncluttered and
uncomplicated, with a clear and sole focus. Informative, beautiful, and solely
dedicated to the topic of food and drink.
GRAM magazine is a monthly compilation, offering a snapshot of articles,
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local sources.
WHY GRAM IS UNIQUE
We offer something different to our mainstream magazines and have
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• GRAM is the only monthly street press magazine dedicated to food
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GRAM MAGAZINEFREQUENCY MonthlyFORMAT 36 pages 270mm x 380 mmCOVER PRICE FreePRINT CIRCULATION 22,000DISTRIBUTION Over 1100 venuesDIGITAL READERS 9420 (average per edition)GRAM ONLINEWEB STATS* 1020 visits per day
30600 visits per monthGRAM SOCIALTWITTER Over 6,000 followersFACEBOOK Over 6,000 likesINSTAGRAM Over 15,000 followers
THE FACTS
CONTACT US TODAY: [email protected]
WHY ADVERTISE?
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