Sparkling gift ideas, brilliant jewellery & festive collections

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Holiday Glam

Nicole Kidman and her jewels

Suzanne Belperron Lydia Courteille

Frank Gehry Pesavento

PLUS: Exclusives from the Biennale des Antiquaires

December 2012 February 2013

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design icons

style diva

Reine de Naples Collectionin every woman is a queen

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SIGN IN

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SomethingSomething

BoldNew

If there ever was a case for life moving in circles, it must be the very magazine you are now holding in your hands. When we launched Solitaire in 2002, we did so with the conviction that Asias jewellery industry not only had come of age, but that it needed a

strong voice on the international stage. With the enthusiastic support of readers and advertisers alike, the title and its licensed edition in Indonesia grew exponentially and became a total success.

So much so that eventually we realised that the finite resources we as independent publishers had at our disposal were insufficient to grow the title much further. Our conclusion at the time was to sell it to a first-class international publisher, which could bring the brand to promising markets in other parts of the world. We found just such a media house in Edipresse, the owners of the iconic Tatler magazines, and they took on Solitaire from July 2008 onwards.

Yet, as the saying goes: Life is what happens while you are making other plans. So when Lehman Brothers went bankrupt just one month after the handover of Solitaire, all good intentions and business plans were voided by events unfolding on the international financial stage. The jewellery industry along with all other facets of the luxury business went through a brutal contraction, and business for jewellery magazines evaporated almost overnight. A significant number of them folded, especially in the US and Europe, and only due to the determination and tireless efforts of Edipresse Solitaire was able to survive.

In the end though, everyone with an interest and financial or emotional stake in this magazine realised that jewellery being such a very specific and unique industry, it would be better for the magazine if it were to return to its founders. And with this first redesigned issue you are reading now, it has done so. Our regular readers will notice our new masthead logo, a new cover feel, different and more elegant paper, and a fresher, tighter look on its editorial pages. Overall though, the tried and tested formula of celebrating humanitys second oldest profession remains at the centre of all our efforts.

All of us at Solitaire and its sister publications Jetgala and Palace thank you for your interest and goodwill. We are very grateful. Rainer Sigel Publisher

OUR REGULAR READERS WILL

NOTICE OUR NEW MASTHEAD LOGO, A

NEW COVER FEEL, DIFFERENT AND MORE ELEGANT

PAPER, AND A FRESHER, TIGHTER

LOOK ON ITS EDITORIAL PAGES.

11-326 Solitaire_Dec Jan Feb 2012_67651OR.indd 1 11/22/12 12:40 PM

CONTENT

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8 SIGN IN Something Bold, Something New14 TEAM16 BOUTIQUE New & Exclusive

FACETS34 RED CARPET TRENDS Hot rocks, cool parties38 TEMPTING TRANSFORMERS Jewels with the power of metamorphosis 44 OF STYLE AND SKILL Mother-of-pearl makes complications easy on the eye48 CROWNING GLORY Hair jewellery gets top billing54 DIAL DELIGHT Finding art in the face of time60 THE NATURE OF TIME Jewelled watches inspired by flora and fauna62 WISHING WELL The perfect gifts for every lady in your life64 WHITE KNIGHTS Snowy dials to match that wintry feeling72 CROWNING METAL Silvers style renaissance74 SET ON TIME Celebrating 200 years of the first wristwatch

ontents

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FRANCK MULLER BOUTIQUEFRANCK MULLER BOUTIQUE SINGAPORESINGAPORE 01-07 ION ORCHARD (65) 6509 3380 B1-19 THE SHOPPES AT MARINA BAY SANDS (65) 6634 8825 01-07 ION ORCHARD (65) 6509 3380 B1-19 THE SHOPPES AT MARINA BAY SANDS (65) 6634 8825 MELBOURNEMELBOURNE 119 COLLINS STREET (613) 9650 0288 119 COLLINS STREET (613) 9650 0288 JAKARTAJAKARTA PLAZA PLAZA INDONESIA (6221) 310 7608 INDONESIA (6221) 310 7608 BANGKOKBANGKOK SIAM PARAGON (662) 610 9423 SIAM PARAGON (662) 610 9423 AUTHORISED RETAILERSAUTHORISED RETAILERS SINGAPORESINGAPORE SINCERE FINE WATCHESSINCERE FINE WATCHES TAKASHIMAYA S.C. (65) 6733 0618 SCOTTS SQUARE (65) 6636 0600 TAKASHIMAYA S.C. (65) 6733 0618 SCOTTS SQUARE (65) 6636 0600 THE SHOPPES AT MARINA BAY SANDS (65) 6634 9782 SUNTEC CITY (65) 6337 5150 VIVOCITY (65) 6278 1698 THE SHOPPES AT MARINA BAY SANDS (65) 6634 9782 SUNTEC CITY (65) 6337 5150 VIVOCITY (65) 6278 1698 SINCERE HAUTE HORLOGERIESINCERE HAUTE HORLOGERIE HILTON SINGAPORE (65) 6738 9971 HILTON SINGAPORE (65) 6738 9971 WATCHES OF SWITZERLANDWATCHES OF SWITZERLANDPARAGON (65) 6732 9793 PARAGON (65) 6732 9793 KUALA LUMPURKUALA LUMPUR SINCERE FINE WATCHESSINCERE FINE WATCHES STARHILL (603) 2141 8848 SURIA KLCC (603) 2166 2181 PAVILION KL (603) 2141 8418 THE GARDENS MALL (603) 2287 1133 STARHILL (603) 2141 8848 SURIA KLCC (603) 2166 2181 PAVILION KL (603) 2141 8418 THE GARDENS MALL (603) 2287 1133

12_0797 Sincere Franck Muller Solitaire Infinity Spore Dec_Jan_Feb 2012_2013 FPFC_v1.indd 1 11/22/12 2:29 PM

CONTENT

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ontentsINTERVIEW30 A GOOD LIFE Nicole Kidman56 CABINET OF CURIOSITIES Lydia Courteille76 THE RULE BREAKER Delfina Delettrez

DESIGN40 TECHNO CRAFT Powerful Pesavento 50 LIQUID ARCHITECTURE Frank Gehrys jewelled creations66 PRECIOUS PORTRAITS Jewellery that tells a story with porcelain68 LADY MYSTERY The life and works of Suzanne Belperron100 BESPOKE TREASURES Exploring Jakartas jewellery scene

REVIEW80 PALACE OF DREAMS From the Biennale des Antiquaires86 GRAND GEOMETRY Bulgaris Biennale debut

KNOWLEDGE88 COLOURED DIAMONDS Rock solid assets92 CONCH PEARLS Precious imposter

STYLE94 FESTIVE FINERY Jewelled inspirations for the holidays 106 CHARMED PERFECTION Bold jewels and timepiece essentials

117 ATELIER120 GALAS Sparkling Soires 130 STAR GEMS A Quarterly Forecast132 RING GUIDE134 JEWELLERY SHOW DIARY136 JEWEL BOX Dress to Impress

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LALIQUE BOUTIQUE @ ORCHARD MANDARIN GALLERYMandarin Galleryt4ingaporet5t&crystal@lalique.com.sg

COLLECTION LIBELLULE

TEAM

Passion for jewellery runs in Aniko Navais family. Her grandmother had a collection of European Art Deco diamonds, and her mother accessorised her haute couture Dior gowns with custom-made pieces by Cartier. Throw in her Hollywood connections, and youve got the perfect jewellery correspondent to the stars. In this issue, she shares a recent interview with superstar Nicole Kidman.

In this issue, Sydney-based writer Melissa Pearce talks to Frank Gehry. Aside from covering the movers and shakers of the industry, Melissa equally enjoys profiling emerging design talent and iconic brands. She also writes travel and lifestyle features beyond the jewellery box. Melissa is restless by nature and will journey far for a good meal.

In this issue, Lisa-Ann Lee traces the story and unforgettable designs of Suzanne Belperron. Apart from exploring trends in the jewellery industry, she also writes about interior design, the arts and luxury. Her work has appeared in business and lifestyle publications in Asia.

A freelance journalist and editorial consultant who has lived on three different continents, Y-Jean Mun-Del Salle is no stranger to change. A peripatetic lifestyle such as hers allows her to move easily among cultures and come face-to-face with inspirational individuals in pursuit of excellence. She finds joy and solace in writing and contributes regularly to regional and international titles, shining a spotlight in particular on art, architecture, design, horology and jewellery.

CONTENTEDITOR Emilie Yabut-Razon

MASTHEAD & TEMPLATES Sylvia Weimer / Spacelabdesign SydneyBUSINESS EDITOR Rainer Sigel

EDITOR Katrina BalmacedaASSISTANT EDITOR Sandy Tan

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Charmaine Tai

CONTRIBUTORS Aniko Navai, Charlene Co, Lisa-Ann Lee, Melissa Pearce, Olive Cuenca,

Y-Jean Mun-Del Salle

COMPANYPUBLISHER Rainer Sigel

MANAGING DIRECTOR Michelle Tay SENIOR MANAGER, BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Jaime Lim

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT EXECUTIVES Shirleen Low, Kelly LiCIRCULATION & PRODUCTION MANAGER Caroline Rayney

OFFICE MANAGER Winnie LimMARKETING ASSISTANT Anne Goh

CONTACT 120 Lower Delta Road #13-11

Cendex Centre, Singapore 169208 T: +65 6273 0620F: +65 6273 0632

EMAILSADVERTISING business@oriental-publishing.com

EDITORIAL solitaire@oriental-publishing.comEVENTS events@oriental-publishing.com

CIRCULATION circulation@oriental-publishing.com ADMINISTRATION office@oriental-publishing.com

WEBSITESMAGAZINES www.solitairemagazine.com | www.jetgala.com

www.palacemagazine.asia GROUP www.orientalmediagroup.com

SINGAPORE www.oriental-publishing.com VIETNAM www.oriental-ltd.com

DIGITAL EDITIONS & DOWNLOADS www.digital.solitaire.comFACEBOOK www.facebook.solitaire.com

SOLITAIRE is published quarterly and circulated throughout the Asia-Pacific. Opinions expressed are those of the contributors and not

necessarily endorsed by the Publisher.

COPYRIGHT NOTICEAll rights, including copyright, in the content of this publication are owned or controlled by Oriental Publishing Pte Ltd, Singapore. You are not permitted to copy, broadcast, download, store in any medium,

transmit, show or play in public, adapt or change in any way the content of this publication for any other purpose whatsoever without the prior

written permission of Oriental Publishing Pte Ltd, Singapore.

TRADEMARK NOTICE The masthead logo SOLITAIRE is a Registered Trademark of Oriental

Publishing Pte Ltd, Singapore. All rights are cumulatively reserved by Oriental Publishing Pte Ltd, Singapore. Their protection will be

pursued to the full extent of the law.

Printed by KHL Printing Co, SingaporeMICA(P)144/09/2012

PHOTO CREDITSCOVER Photography: Brendan Zhang

Stylist: Furqan SainiHair & Makeup: Andrea Claire

Jewellery: Petite Fleur watch and earrings in white gold with diamonds, Breguet

ATELIER OPENER Image courtesy of Piaget

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www.orientalmediagroup.com

by appointment only: Tel: +852 2191 9282 info@scarselli-asia.com

Hong Kong Shanghai New York

www.scarselli-asia.com

BOUTIQUE

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Full Circle

Sea of

lion in the snow

When the late Nicolas G. Hayek bought the 1794 Breguet No. 5 pocket watch a few years ago, he set his watchmakers to the task of reproducing the timepiece using the techniques of older days. Breguet accomplished this by taking apart the original movement down to the tiniest screw and photographing the parts. The succesful replica is now on sale and on tour around selected Asian cities.. www.breguet.com

SnakeTo celebrate the coming Chinese New Year, Roberto Coin has designed a unique piece using the cobra, a symbol of sacredness and wisdom. The bangle coils round the arm. Blue sapphires, colourless and black diamonds form the skin of the snake, while rubies make up the eyes. www.en.robertocoin.com

Degem introduces toi et moi, a collection of coloured gemstone rings that come in pairs, designed so that both rings can be worn at the same time or separately, as a sign of friendship or family ties. The rings come in white, rose and yellow gold, and a variety of gems, including rubies, diamonds, beryl and aquamarine. www.degemdiamond.com.sg

GOLDAustralian jeweller Linneys presents its latest collection, created from South Sea pearls, burnished gold and diamonds. The South Sea gold pearl earrings feature a pair of cultured pearls and a mix of diamonds in a flower design, while the Diamond Cuff is studded with 74 round brilliant-cut diamonds set along a polished concave of textured cross sections. www.linneys.com.au

Chanels new jewellery watch collection, Mademoiselle Priv, opens the door to the intimate world of Gabrielle Chanel, showcasing cherished symbols she loved to have around her. In the Montre Constellation Du Lion watch, stars and a majestic lion are ablaze in a blue translucent enamel dial, with grain- and invisible-set diamonds. The white-gold case also features snow-set diamonds. www.chanel.com

Bites

Jewelmer Tropics Collection

BOUTIQUE

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Night Pride

Cartier introduces its line-up of evening bags for the party season. Available in satin, goatskin, red lacquer, python skin or crocodile skin, these exclusive clutches have clasps encrusted with diamonds and cabochons of cornelian, onyx and chrysoprase. The purses are hand-woven using silver thread and silk to create a glistening spider web effect, or dyed in silver or gold hues. www.cartier.com

Los Angeles-based jeweller Azature has created the worlds most expensive nail polish, the Azature Black Diamond, containing 267 carats of black diamonds. Black, in traditional Chinese culture, is colour reserved for royalty. Only one bottle of this luxurious lacquer has been produced and is going for USD250,000. The fancy shade will also be available in more wallet-friendly versions, with just one black diamond per bottle. www.azature.com

LUXE & lacquer

David Moatisi of Botswana recently designed the award-winning Zebra Neckpiece. His work, based on the theme of emotional bonds between two people, was presented at the Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair in September. The masterpiece features 2,848 black and white diamonds totalling 73.17 carats set in 18k white gold.

Light

CABLE ZSAR

David Yurmans son and now creative hand at the jewellery house, Evan Yurman has released the brands first high jewellery collection, which features one-of-a-kind pieces with tourmalines, black opal, rubellites, and pav diamonds. Both the Emerald and Diamond Earrings and Rubellite and Colour Change Garnet Pave Mosaic Cuffs are one-off pieces with the brands signature cable pattern base. The earrings are an unusual set with a platinum inlay and mother-of-pearl backing, while the cuff uses 17 uniquely shaped Madagascar rubellites. www.davidyurman.com

Safari

BOUTIQUE

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Our 175th anniversary is the perfect occasion to showcase these one-of-a-kind jewels, which reflect Tiffanys legacy, says Jon King, executive vice president of Tiffany & Co., about its latest collection that features many of the rare gemstones first introduced by Charles Lewis Tiffany himself. Among the pieces presented are the Tiffany Anniversary Tanzanite Necklace, which has a 175ct tanzanite complemented by a cascade of round diamonds, and the Tiffany Anniversary Ring, which features a vivid greenish-blue diamond of 2.51 carats, bordered by white diamonds. www.tiffany.com

Legacy Counts

Hot Deco

De Grisogono is set to shine with its latest collection, Tondo by Night. Just 45 minutes of exposure to light natural or otherwise is needed to get the watch sparkling. The case and the buckle are made from a composite called Pearly Photo-luminescent Fibreglass, which creates the light effect. Available in six bold colours, the watch is set with precious stones on the bezel, as well as the rotor thats visible on the dial. www.degrisogono.com

MINUTE SPARKLES

CeramicEtienne Perret specialises in colour-enhanced diamond jewellery, turning eco-friendly materials into wearable pieces that are perfect for both sexes. His collection, Ceramique, is fully customisable. Customers have a say in every step of the process, choosing the colour of the ring, and the colour and number of diamonds. Rings are available in widths from 2 to 20mm, and can come in polished, silk or matte finishes. http://ceramicjewelry.com

Spectrum

Designed by Camille Miceli, the Dior Grand Bal golden tattoos are intended to look like gold jewellery that can be pasted on whenever you want. These temporary tattoos are made using 24k gold leafing. Each limited edition set includes cuffs, chain bracelets, charms and rings. www.dior.com

Glitz & GlamRecently presented at the Kensington Palace in October, Hartmanns Pink Diamond Cocktail Ring stood out with its simple yet elegant design. The ring is set in white gold, with a cushion-cut Fancy Intense Purplish Pink/S2I2 2011 Argyle Pink Tender stone. Framing it are six cushion-cut diamonds and two pear-shaped white diamonds, completed with 106 small white diamonds bringing the jewellery to 2.42 carats. www.argylepinkcollection.com

Enfocus Software - Customer Support

BOUTIQUE

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Frdrique Constant has released a new table clock that incorporates a modern yet timeless look. The lid is cleverly designed to double up as a watch stand. The finely brushed and polished 94mm stainless steel case and crown encase a white dial with deep black oxidised hands and hour markers. Two quartz movements allow a second time zone at 6 oclock. www.frederique-constant.com

TimeTable

on the go

Paying tribute to the Oriental Ball held in Paris in 1969, Van Cleef & Arpels has created the Izmir set as part of their Bals de Lgende collection, comprising a set of matching earrings and necklace. While the earrings are studded with pink and purple spinels and rubellites, the necklace features an intricate set of jewels including opal beads, topaz, and a 50.79ct yellow sapphire. www.vancleefarpels.com

Arabian Legends

Like most women, I have a lifelong love of shoes, says Sarah Hutchings of Orsini Fine Jewellery. Teaming up with fellow New Zealander, footwear designer Kathryn Wilson, they recently created what is thought to be the most expensive pair of shoes to date. Using a special adhesive, Hutchings gave Wilsons classic court-heeled shoes a makeover by placing more than half a million dollars worth of white diamonds on them.

Sberbank in Kazakhstan is distributing one hundred Visa Infinite credit cards to its wealthiest clients. The USD100,000 card is made of gold and embedded with 26 diamonds and mother-of-pearl. Approximately USD65,000 goes into minting the card, while USD35,000 remains in the bankers account. Owners also receive lounge access at airports, discounts at hotels and restaurants, and life and health insurance. www.sberbank.kz

With the central body made out of jade, the dragon pendant by Zannetti features a 800 silver cap displaying a rhodium finish. The lower part of the pendulum displays a body made of white gold, which holds the Swiss quartz movement sporting a dial made of fire opal. The entire pendant is embellished by round brilliant-cut diamonds, rubies, emeralds, blue and yellow sapphires. www.zannetti.it

DANCE OF THE DRAGON

Cinderellas New Slippers

GOLD

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INTERVIEW

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lifeOver the course of her career, Kidman has immersed herself in both blockbuster and indie characters, many of whom have taught and inspired her. Her latest project is a biopic on the late Princess of Monaco and legendary actress, Grace Kelly.

It was the day after the Emmy Awards when Kidman and I sat to chat about her life, and from her gorgeous Antonio Berardi dress and dangling Fred Leighton diamond earrings, she was back to city chic, wearing a thin sweater and matching pencil skirt by LWren Scott in mustard, a colour that seemed to match her bright outlook on life.

Nicole Kidman has done countless interviews over the years, yet she still appears reserved and even a little shy, especially when it comes to her private life. Its been an amazing journey for the iconic actress, who at 45 is enjoying a loving marriage with country singer Keith Urban, and their two young daughters, four-year-old Sunday Rose and two-year-old Faith.

by Aniko Navai

NICOLE KIDMAN

OPPOSITENicole Kidman wears vintage jewellery from Cartier to The Paperboy premiere at the 65th annual Cannes Film Festival

THIS PAGEBracelet with step, modied, baguette and bullet-shaped diamonds in platinum, Cartier New York, 1929; bracelet with baguette, French, round old- and single-cut diamonds and step-cut emeralds in platinum, Cartier Paris, 1926

DO YOU FEEL AS COMFORTABLE AS YOU LOOK ON THE RED CARPET?I know the head of the Cannes film festival very well because Ive been there so many times now that it sort of feels like coming home. So yes, Im probably more at ease with being on the red carpet, but then theres an enormous amount of energy coming at you. When I step away from it and Im back in my real life, theres a dreamlike quality to it. Its made better when you have a partner, when you have somebody who loves you and whom you love, who balances it all.

AND YOUR HUSBAND, KEITH, PROVIDES THAT?The balance of my life particularly is what I

a good

INTERVIEW

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I love clothes at the moment because Ive been doing XXMRKW[MXL(MSVERH'LERIPERH-Q[IEVMRK'EVXMIVNI[IPWERHMXWYRFIPMIZEFPI

OPPOSITE PAGE Nicole Kidman wears a studded Versace gown and Fred Leighton jewels to the 2012 Golden Globes

RIGHTNicole wearing earrings in platinum with round old-cut diamonds, by Cartier Paris from 1923

need, and [the time] when I didnt have that was when it was far more frightening for me. Im really just one of those people that does very well with my mate, my partner, my lover.

FOR AN ACTRESS SO ACCOMPLISHED, WHAT HAS THE JOURNEY BEEN LIKE FOR YOU?At 45, Im still completely fascinated with the human journey and the journey were on as a collective, trying to understand what makes us all tick.

LOOKING AT YOU ITS HARD TO BELIEVE YOURE 45.I feel a bit more tired and I ache a little more sometimes, and I have two young children, which is spectacular. I mean, to be raising these little girls at this age is such a great gift but at the same time I dont have the stamina that I had in my 20s.

IS THERE ANYTHING IN PARTICULAR YOU WOULD STILL LIKE TO ACHIEVE?Intellectually and emotionally my desire as a human being is to live a well-examined life. Its to have more compassion, more kindness, more understanding and hopefully do things in this world that are relevant. At this age, I think my understanding of who

I am and what I want to do is so much greater than when I was a teenager, and I cant wait to see what its like in my 50s.

YOUVE BEEN MARRIED SIX YEARS NOW...Has it been that long? Well, Keith is just a very genuine person. Hes very thoughtful. Im his biggest fan and Im very lucky to have him. And its great to live in Nashville because movies are kind of non-

existent there. Its the centre of country music and so Im kind of on the periphery there, a really nice place for me to be.

YOU AMAZED US WITH YOUR TALENT AS A SINGER IN BOTH MOULIN ROUGE AND NINE. DO YOU HAVE PLANS TO PERFORM WITH YOUR HUSBAND? Weve shared the stage for charity me singing back-ups, but anything professionally no. Every now and then we get asked to do stuff together and the only way wed do it is if its a one-off thing to raise money for something. Im too shy and hes too good. He doesnt need me pulling him down.

AS WE GET MORE MATURE, OUR STYLE AND OUR SENSE OF FASHION CHANGES. CAN YOU DESCRIBE HOW NICOLE KIDMANS STYLE HAS EVOLVED, ESPECIALLY NOW THAT YOURE PLAYING GRACE KELLY IN A BIO-PICTURE?Yeah, that plays a huge part. I went through my jeans and T-shirt stage and now that Im playing Grace Im like okay, I love clothes at the moment because Ive been doing fittings with Dior and Chanel and Im wearing Cartier jewels and its unbelievable. Its beautiful. She was just magnificent in her

33

style and her taste. And theres the man who does the hats and hes the son of the milliner that did Graces hats so its kind of almost rejuvenated my love of fashion, and I see it as an art form again. In my 20s I just loved the European and avant-garde, and then I went through a down-to-earth stage where I didnt have the time to dress up, and now Im sort of back in love with it again. Ive run the gamut in my relationship with fashion and style.

SO IF WE CATCH YOU ON AN AVERAGE DAY WHAT WOULD YOU BE WEARING?Now at the moment playing Grace, I would hope that you see Im dressed.... I mean, my husbands like Wow, youre dressing differently and Im like Um hum. Im wearing skirts. Im putting on heels and Im sure thats because of the film. Its rubbed off on me.

WHAT DOES LUXURY MEAN TO YOU NOW? DO YOU APPRECIATE IT MORE, OR LESS THAN BEFORE?Probably less. I mean Im still appreciative but the simplest things in the world now are the most important to me. And I think when I was starting out I was far more starry-eyed about the materialistic side of things. Then you go okay, I know whats important and whats valuable in my life. But when Im playing a character like Grace Kelly, all of that has to rise to the surface again. I suppose because Im so absorbed in her right now Im kind of seeing the world through her eyes.

WOULD YOU EVER CARE TO WRITE YOUR LIFE STORY?Im the kind of person that has had an enormous amount of experiences. Things have gone on in my life but Im very private. Im never going to write a book and I probably would never make a film about any part of my life. Its just who I am. Its a bit how I was raised and at the same time its out of respect for people.

YOUVE BEEN REPRESENTING OMEGA. CAN YOU TALK ABOUT YOUR AFFILIATION WITH THEM?My dad always had gorgeous watches and

so when Omega first came to me, which was years ago, and asked me to work with them, it was like the perfect fit in a way. They have exquisite craftsmanship, and theyre just a great company to work for, very philanthropic which is something that is important to me. Omega contributes in a big way to the UNs womens issues.

SPEAKING OF WATCHES, WHAT DOES TIME MEAN TO YOU?Right now that links to the question of being 45. Time is so precious and I think it becomes apparent, as you get older. There are so many things you can buy, but you cannot buy time. And thats why we always try keeping our family together, because you cant get time back.

FACETS

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As temperatures fall and the sun-drenched days of summer begin to cool, celebrities on the worlds red carpets are taking fashion cues from the changing landscape. Gone are the neon hues of summer. Autumn and winter colours are making their appearance in jewellery as the stars accessorise with burnished reds, browns, emerald greens, and gold, with a smattering of fancy coloured and brilliant diamonds. The sumptuous, rich hues of the season are a fail-safe way to add a touch of glamour to any outfit, as can be seen on leading ladies like Naomi Watts, Sofia Vergara and Angelababy. These shades work equally well with complementary tones or as an accent piece. Watts, who will portray the late Princess Diana in her upcoming movie, Diana, goes for brown and cognac diamond earrings and a nude gown, while Prometheus star Noomi Rapace pairs a raspberry ring with a contrasting hunter green frock.

Inspirations taken from winters majestic palette

by Fiona Low

RED CARPET TRENDS

Hong Kongs Angelababy at the 2012 Venice Film Festival wearing 16ct fancy yellow pear diamond earrings and a high jewellery Serpenti watch from Bulgari

Soa Vergara atthe Emmys wearing45ct pear-shapeddiamond earrings, a 20ct divine diamond ring, and multiple diamond with emerald bracelets from Neil Lane; 4ct diamondring from Hearts On Fire

drenched days of summer orlds red carpets are

nging landscape. Gone tumn and winter colours wellery as the stars browns, emerald greens, cy coloured and brilliant ues of the season are amour to any outfit,ke Naomi Watts, ese shades work tones or as an

ray the latemovie, Diana, ond earrings us star sing with a

p

Noomi Rapace at the 2012 Venice Film Festival wearing the Bulgari Heritage ring

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Fope_Solitarie_220x300.indd 1 22/10/12 12.38

FACETS

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1. Striking winter tones like Jamie Lynn Siglers raspberry rhodolite bracelet and earrings in rose gold will jazz up monochromatic ensembles

2. Stick to varying shades of the same colour for a polished getup. Violante Placido looks resplendent in a scarlet dress with matching jewels, clutch and lippy

3. Icy diamonds work better in large ornate pieces rather than dainty accessories. Take a cue from Soa Vergaras show-stopping combina-tion of bracelets and earrings at the Emmys

Style Tips

Jamie Lynn Sigler at the Emmys with raspberry rhodolite earrings and bracelet with brilliant and chocolate diamonds in 18k strawberry gold. All from Le Vian

Violante Placido wears ruby and diamond jewellery from Bulgari at the 2012 Venice Film Festival; Serpenti cuff in white gold with rubies and diamonds

1. StrikingLynn Siglbracelet awill jazz uensemble

2. Stick tosame coloViolante in a scarlejewels, clu

3. Icy diaornate piaccessoriVergaras tion of brat the Em

Naomi Watts at the 69th Venice Film Festival wearing a pair of rose-gold earings set with brown and cognac diamonds from Chopard

FACETS

D i a m o n d s

FACETS

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Convertible long necklaces, moveable motifs and playful pieces fitted with ingenious mechanisms are all the rage this season. These secret pieces may undergo sudden

transformations, so that a bracelet becomes a brooch or a necklace turns into a bracelet. This reflects jewellers current obsession with the concept of dual function, a sense of mystery and

concealment, and an ingenious and imaginative approach to ornamentation.

Jewels that display the magic of metamorphosis

temptingtransformers

Van Cleef & Arpels glorious Mysterious Phoenix necklace showcasing a 14.36-carat pear-cut diamond and rubies mounted in the houses famous Mystery Setting, a technique it patented in 1922, features a phoenix motif that may be detached and worn as a clip.

by Y-Jean Mun-Delsalle

TRANSFORMER JEWELS

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A platinum necklace from Cartiers Luxuriant Landscape high-jewellery collection, featuring a 91.34-carat emerald drop from Colombia, a pear-shaped diamond, and brilliants, transforms into a nature-inspired brooch.

WWhether its in the lines, volumes or gems, the variations on the same theme stars and comets, symbols that coloured Gabrielle Chanels imagination are those sof a virtuoso. The multiple ways of wwearing the claspless toile Filante

p yp

renew the codes of the necklace.Of rigid construction, yet with afluid feel, it drapes the chest witha constellation of diamonds andends with a stunning five-pointedstar embellished with an opulent 8.8-carat round-cut diamond,wwhich may be unfastened and usedas a brooch.

Boucherons mysterious Perle au Trsor treasure chest in diamonds, pearls, opals and mother of pearl is a great technical innovation, turning a precious object into multiple pieces of jewellery. Requiring more than 3,000 hours of work, this perfect sphere paying tribute to the art of marquetry conceals a world of wonders. It opens and unveils a necklace, two brooches and a bracelet like a secret jewellery box.

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Craftt e h n oPowerful designs of creativity and skill

by Olive Cuenca

PESAVENTO

DESIGN

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DESIGN

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Channelling art into jewellery design can be hit or miss, but its a challenge the creative duo of Marino Pesavento and Chiara Carli of Italian brand Pesavento Srl has mastered in the last two decades. The couples skillful creations, rendered in gold or silver, have garnered numerous accolades for their unique combination of technological savvy and Italian craftsmanship. Pieces that resemble miniature sculptures have piqued the interest of fashion houses and international celebrities because of their unusual textures, element of whimsy and play of light and colour.

Creating jewellery requires a total immersion in the world of beauty, art and harmony, say designers Marino and Chiara, who founded Pesavento in 1992, adding that the process is poetry in the essence of form, and a journey to new horizons where design enhances desire.

Fuelled by a strong creative vision that continually seeks to innovate through technology, Pesaventos founders believe that crafting a masterpiece begins with a clear

concept and must be backed by top-quality materials, technique and superb Italian workmanship. As with art, a graceful balance of skill and harmony is required of each piece. Chiara adds: We knew exactly what we wanted a silver and gold jewellery company projected towards the future; and innovation based on creativity, aesthetics, culture, skill in material transformation and know-how that distinguishes real Made in Italy production.

Among the inventive duos very first creations was the Incontri collection, featuring necklaces, rings and bracelets in gold, with a minimalist yet bold style. Drawing on the richness of the metal, the designers created smooth, highly polished coil-like loops held together by spring clasps they created especially for the line.

In 1994, Pesavento launched three new collections Oceania, Gallattica and Saetta. Two years later, the company followed through with the Arena collection, which features intertwining chains of yellow and white gold. All their pieces showed a gorgeous fusion of materials and modern design, cementing the brands unique design style.

In the same year, the brand released the yellow- and chocolate-gold Safary necklace with a tusk-shaped pendant embellished with black spinel. The use of black spinel proved to be a hit, paving the way for the brand to create more gem-studded pieces, including the Bowl rings series, which featured row upon row of

OPPOSITE PAGEPixel rings in silver and rhodium, pink gold and ruthenium plating, from the Vento925 collection

ABOVEElastic silver mesh chains, earrings and cuff from the DNA collection, in tones of pink and grey

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As with art, a graceful balance of skill and harmony is required

of each creation

ABOVEPolvere di Sogni silver rings and bracelets in shades of rhodium, pink gold and ruthenium, coated with glitter-ing powder in various colours

BELOW, FROM LEFTBowl rings in gold with pav diamonds; Burlesque, a limited edi-tion collection made in pink gold studded with diamonds

pav diamonds as the focal point. Part of the companys Vento 925

Collection, which celebrates the beauty of silver, the Pixel range was greeted with much enthusiasm, showcasing a multitude of spheres in rhodium, pink gold and ruthenium plating.

In 2010, Pesavento introduced a remarkable innovation when it released its Sigili rings range. Each piece is rendered in PVD and features large central stones. PVD is a new technological process that permits atoms of precious metal to be deposited through evaporation onto the surfaces of precious metals to form an extraordinarily tenacious structure, Marino explains.

This success was followed by another cutting edge design: the Polvere diSogni or Stardust collection, a range which Marino and Chiara call designer jewellery that looks to the future. Using a newly developed technology that uses powder from crushed precious metals and gems to bond with silver, they have created pieces with unique sandy or rock-like textures, never before seen in jewellery.

Their latest masterpiece, the DNA, is

even more unorthodox. Helical elastic mesh in coloured silver form chandelier earrings, tiered necklaces and cuff bracelets that are supple and lithe with a strong core so as to be completely flexible, allowing wearers to tighten, twist, wrap and move them around exactly as they wish.

Celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, Pesavento is presenting Burlesque, a limited edition collection of 99 pieces featuring jewellery in rose gold studded with diamonds that are packaged in natural python-skin cases made for the occasion. Burlesque captivates and speaks well of the brands incredible journey and strong fascination for jewellery making.

As the founding designers look back at their two-decade-long creative journey, Marino and Chiara exhibit the same enthusiasm as the very first day they started the business. Their creative flame has never dimmed, and they continue to surprise with

sculptural, sensual works of art.

DESIGN

I t a ly Cus tom made des ign ava i lab le upon reques t

Exclusive Dealer for Malaysia: Poh Kong Jewellery, Kuala Lumpur

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90 Anniversaryth

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CartierThe maison uses Tahitian mother of peaarl for the dial of its Tempees MModernes de Cartier wwatch. The timepiece cleverly references the Charlie Chaplin film Modern Times by decorating the dial witth diamond-encrusted gears. Rotating thebezel makes the gears turn along with themain hour and minutee subdial.

Dior The fashion house heightens the technical appeal of the VIII Grand Bal Plume 38mm automatic. Based on the Dior Invers calibre, it displays the oscillating weight on the dial side instead of the back, using white gold adorned with feathers and diamonds, set against a dial of black Vietnamese mother of pearl.

Style Skill

by Katrina Balmaceda

MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIALS

Mother of pearl makes complications easy on the eye and elegant on the wrist

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Van Cleef &ArpelsVan CleefVan CleefThis years

ppPoetic Wish

pp ladies

wwatch portrays a Parisian scene wwith engraveed gold, enamel and sculpted motther of pearl. In tune with thee entire collection, it tells a story off yearning lovers. A five-minute reepeater activates tthe figures andd uses either a man oor awoman to tell tthe hour, while a kiite tells the minutees. IIts charming and, as they say,its complicated.

BreguetThe Reine de Naples reference 8908 with a flexible gold chain strap references the original watch made by Abraham-Louis Breguet for the Queen of Naples 200 years ago, which supposedly came with a strap of braided hair and gold thread. The egg-shaped dial is made of black Tahitian mother-of-pearl a first for a Breguet watch with a moon-phase indicator, power-reserve indicator, central hours and minutes subdial, and small seconds subdial.

BulgariThe 2012 Bulgari Diagono

Chronographe for ladies comes in either a steel-and-ceramic or

rose-gold-and-ceramic case with the brands logo, with a diamond-

studded, mother-of-pearl dial. A rubber strap adheres to the

collections sporty style, along with a chronograph function with separate hours, minutes and hands subdials

and a date-display window.

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Go Ahead ring and hairpiece with emerald-cut tourmaline, diamonds and white jade in 18k brushed gold

Showing off jewellery takes a creative turn as necklaces, brooches and rings find their way to elegant up-dos. Pearls, jade, diamonds and coloured gems have been spotted on celebrity tresses at recent red carpet events. At the Met Ball for instance, stars like Naomi Campbell, Kate Hudson and Jessica Alba all donned hair jewels demi-style, pinned back on sides or headband-style.

Giving your coiffure a little art and sparkle is something Chinese jewellery Su Jie Feng knows well. He founded SocoSo, a design studio that aims to bring Chinese traditional art to modern times through jewellery.

In ancient China, women used hair ornaments to denote social rank, as love tokens, and to signify that the young woman had reached marriageable age. These were fashioned from jade, gold, silver, ivory, bronze and carved wood, depicting auspicious symbols from flora and fauna. This tradition inspired Su Jie Fengs Go Ahead collection, which presents ornate jewels that can be used as hairpieces, featuring white jade, diamonds and tourmalines set in 18k gold.

Hair jewellery gets top billing

Crowning

Gloryby Emilie Yabut-Razon

HAIR JEWELS

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DESIGN

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OPPOSITE PAGEFrank Gehry designed a brooch for Tiffany & Co. based on his Guggenheim Musuem Bilbao. The brooch features 692 baguette-cut and 14 square-cut diamonds set in platinum;Torque concrete bangle and ring by Gehry for Tiffany & Co.

LiquidArchitecture

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A burning fascination for the craft, driven by small-scale works of art

by Melissa Pearce

FRANK GEHRY

He calls architecture frozen music and his lyrical lines are infused with bold expression. The indefatigable Frank Gehry threw another curve ball into his unrelenting and overachieving schedule when, at the age of 76, he began working with Tiffany & Co. to create jewellery. Six years and eight collections later, the worlds most famous living architect is still enjoying learning new skills: marvelling at the way pendants leave an imprint on the dcolletage, and getting excited by sterling silver mesh that folds like fabric. Trading grand scale for small scale in one elegant sweep.

Known for his gleaming spaceship-like structures that seem to be from a distant and hyper-intuitive galaxy, Gehry is the idealised and idolised global brand ambassador for all manner of innovating endeavours. The Walt Disney Concert Hall is sometimes referred to as one of his baubles, but the so-called jewel in his crown and the most notably

bedazzling for jewellery enthusiasts

is his Guggenheim Museum Bilbao. In a Vanity Fair survey of the greatest work of architecture since 1980, more than half of the 52 esteemed architects and critics who chimed in lauded it as the landslide winner. The titanium-clad building has brought his peers to tears and was deemed by New York Times architecture critic Herbert Muschamp as the reincarnation of Marilyn Monroe.

Gehry acknowledges that his works are an ingenious pairing of visionary eyes and expert hands. He might be one of the centurys boldest thinkers but he gets a kick out of collaboration and his grand results are born from an energetic dialogue between players. He has compared the architectural process to jazzs improvisation and he seeks it out continually. His first collection for Tiffany & Co. in 2006 was the result of a three-year project where he, along with the

DESIGN

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Gehry is the idealised and idolised global brand ambassador for all manner of innovating endeavours

DESIGN

brands senior vice president in charge of merchandising and the designers, met at six-week intervals, sometimes on the West Coast and some times on the East.

As the first new collaborator Tiffany & Co. had courted in 25 years (Paloma Picasso was the last in 1980), Gehry joins a handful of illustrious designers that the jeweller has hired since its inception: Elsa Peretti, in 1974, and the late Jean Schlumberger, in 1956. During the launch of his collection, he told the Los Angeles Times of his side-project imperative: I am always looking for things to do that give me instant gratification because buildings take so long. With architectural projects often averaging five- to seven-year partnerships, he is pleased with the speed at which jewellery can be completed, and no doubt, its lack of officious building codes.

Gehry is not the first architect to explore jewellery, but the sensuality of his oeuvre has translated so arrestingly well to the craft. Gehrys work often reflects twisting bodies or biotecture clad in a skin of shimmering and undulating metal, like his 76-storey residential building, 8 Spruce Street in New York, or

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FROM LEFT 7-Fish necklace in sterling silver, onyx, nephrite green jade, acacia wood and pernambuco wood; Hearts necklace in sterling silver with curved and reective surface, inspired by billowing sails; Necklace in white gold mesh, Keshi pearls and diamonds; Hand-painted bangles in bone china; Frank Gehry launched his rst jewelry collection in 2006 ; Fish drop earrings with diamonds in 18k white gold

FROM LEFT7 Fish necklace in

Pragues Dancing House. Its revealing, too, that he has said on several occasions that he enjoys looking at women and how they use jewellery as a fashion statement.

Materials are another linking point between his day job and his Tiffany & Co. releases. Gehry has always celebrated the pedestrian in materials, albeit in very uncommon imaginings. He is fond of concrete and first trumped chain-link and plywood before the titanium swathes of recent decades. Jewellery, less precariously poised on the structural security of materials, has allowed him to experiment even more.

His first collection used black gold, cocholong stone, pernambuco wood and raw-cut diamonds. Last year, his Torque line was made from white bone china and watercolour bangles, hand-painted by Gehry

himself in red, green, blue and grey. In July, the brand released the Modern Concrete Torque, his signature design infused with an edgy monochrome twist, with sterling silver ridged like the bars that reinforce poured concrete or asphalt structures in the construction world. His Paper collection a few years ago featured earrings, brooches and bracelets in 18k yellow gold made to look like crinkly paper. He has also explored agate, rhodonite, jade and palma nera wood.

Adulation does not sit well with Gehry. He is much more comfortable being what he calls Joe Schlepper. Yet he is a living and breathing trademark that can reinvigorate a whole city with a masterstroke, but with a refreshing modesty and accessibility that is almost unbelievable if it werent so genuine.

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Finding art in the face of time

ialDelight

by Emilie Yabut-Razon

DIAL ART

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Beyond the often hidden inner life of a watch, a true masterpiece reveals itself at first glance in the layers of mother-of-pearl, enamelling, guilloch and precious gems that make up an elegant wristwatchs dial. In those very few centimetres of precious metal,

watchmakers tell their spellbinding tales.Cartiers Santos Dumont XL Horse Motif was

created using more than 400 pieces of tesserae, cut in different sizes and shapes, including Kalahari jasper and pink opal. Two mosaic techniques were used to create an image of a horse, hand-engraved in gold and edged in metal piping. The manual-winding watch comes in a limited edition of 50 pieces, 10 of which have baguette-cut diamonds.

Inspired by its famous scarves, Herms presents the Cape Cod Coup de Fouet timepieces featuring dials created through grand feu (high-

Each design carries a different shade brown,

chamois, dark blue and light blue

temperature) enamelling. Each design carries a different shade brown, chamois, dark blue and light blue. The watches are self-winding with a power reserve of 55 hours.

Jaeger-LeCoultre has launched its romantic Rendez-Vous collection with the Wild Rose and

Tourbillon Enamel watches. Both feature a rose motif: the Wild Rose plays on a pastel palette in mother-of-pearl, with diamonds on the bezel, lugs and dial; the Tourbillon Enamel comes in more fiery tones, using enamelling in opaque and translucent shades accented by diamonds.

From Vacheron Constantins Mtiers dArt series come The Year of the Snake models from the Legend of the Chinese Zodiac collection. The dials come in 18k gold, with a hand-engraved platinum or 18k gold snake, and grand feu enamelling. The watches are fitted with the automatic calibre 2460 with hour, minute, day and date indications.

OPPOSITE PAGEJaeger-LeCoultres Rendez-Vous Tourbillon Enamel watch

THIS PAGE, CLOCK-WISE FROM LEFTCartiers Santos Dumont XL Horse Motif in 18k white gold; Cape Cod Coup de Fouet timepiece by Herms with self-winding move-ment H1928; Vacheron Constantins Year of the Snake timepiece features four windows, indicating minute, date, day and hour

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by Y-Jean Mun-Delsalle

LYDIA COURTEILLE

Cabinetof Curiosities

The Gardens of Xochimilco collection, illustrated by Natalie Shau for Lydia Courteille

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Discovering Lydia Courteilles jewellery is like stepping into a curious, fantastical world filled with powerful, thought-provoking themesIt was an exceptionally beautiful, vibrant-green turquoise recently discovered in Turkmenistan that got Lydia Courteille to dream up a unique jewellery collection of one-off pieces named Amazonia, which reinterpreted the flora and fauna of the Amazonian rainforests. Frogs, snakes, creepers and butterflies were transformed into rings, brooches, earrings, bracelets and necklaces, mixing green garnets, emeralds and diamonds. This latest collection straight from the French jewellery designers vivid imagination is perfectly in line with the Baroque spirit and duality of her jewels that are both unsettling and reassuring, as the wearer steps into an unknown, surreal universe inspired by nature and history.

After visiting an antique jeweller in the hope of repairing an old wristwatch, Courteille discovered a passion for jewellery which led her to become an expert gemologist and start collecting 18th-century jewels. She started designing 30 years ago in Paris, which led to her creating custom pieces for her regular clients in 1989. In 2008, she gained international exposure when her creations

appeared on the catwalk with

Alexis Mabilles

haute couture collection and during the Prada boutique presentation. Today, her one-of-a-kind creations are sold worldwide.

An expert in jewellery history, her collections often incorporate vintage jewels, such as cameos set in Baroque-styled rings, adorned with precious stones and unusual materials like hair of Venus rock crystals and laguna blue opals from Peru. Solitaire sits down with Courteille as she shares her journey.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR CHILDHOOD AND HOW YOU KNEW YOU WANTED TO BE A JEWELLERY DESIGNER.I was born in Paris in a family that was never related to jewellery. My father was an electrician and my mother a housewife. It was a classic, strict Catholic family and the only escape for me from a quite boring and monotonous reality was dreaming and fantasising.

As a little girl, I was extremely curious about science and fashion a double personality which probably led me to what I am doing now. I was at once interested in stones, minerals and archaeology, using every opportunity to go to the museum and learn more about it and, at the same time, I spent hours sketching imaginary fashion collections. It was pure destiny that led me to jewellery creation. I once stepped into a jewellery shop and have never actually been able to leave it. I then started collecting and selling antique jewellery, got my gemologist diploma and, some time later, created my own pieces.

TELL ME ABOUT YOUR COLLECTION OF ANTIQUE JEWELLERY AND HOW YOU

INCORPORATE VINTAGE PIECES INTO YOUR OWN JEWELLERY DESIGNS.I started my collection with some very small pieces. It has grown with time as my knowledge and experience have increased.I became an antiquities expert. Antique dealers have always tried to perfect the pieces they

INTERVIEW

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CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFTMonkey bangle in 18k black rhodium gold, pink coral ower centrepiece with diamonds, tasvorites and rubies; Crocodile ring in 18k black rhodium gold with 80ct Paraiba centre stone, brown diamonds and tsavorites; Coiling snake hoop earrings in 18k gold, tsavorites and rubies; Mexican ora- and fauna-inspired brooch in 18k black rhodium gold, re opals, sapphires, garnets and diamonds

SE FROM

have in their possession by adding extra diamonds, changing the setting, etc. My idea was to give new life to pieces that had been done very nicely but set very poorly. Take antique cameos, for example: nobody was wearing them anymore, but when I set them in amazing rings, they became beautiful and bold statement pieces. I also quite often use antique gemstones, for they have a quality that is very different from what we have nowadays on the market. Back then, precious stones were hardly modified with any chemicals, hardly ever heated. So even though they are not as shiny or clear, their colour is simply extraordinary.

DESCRIBE YOUR DESIGN STYLE AND APPROACH. When I start creating, what really counts for me is the pleasure of assembling precious stones, ideas, symbols. It takes time to create a relation between a stone and an idea.

As I love working with colour, I usually start by collecting a particular gemstone. I then put it aside for a while; when the right time comes, I just take them all out and start creating a brand-new collection. I never force myself toI just wait for the right time to come.

TELL ME ABOUT YOUR SOURCES OF INSPIRATION. My inspiration process is long and quite complex because it requires being extremely attentive not only to what happens around me, but also to what happens inside of me. I collect ideas, phrases, memories. It could start with a little drawing I made on a piece of paper or a painting I saw at the Louvre; different images and ideas that I experience crystallise and become something new. There are so many things that inspire me: French poetry (To Cassandra collection), Masson crosses (Esotericism collection), nature (My Secret Garden collection), and travelling (Amazonia and Xochimilco Garden collections).

DESCRIBE YOUR LATEST COLLECTION, AMAZONIA, AS

WELL AS SOME OF THE MOST SPECTACULAR PIECES OF JEWELLERY YOU SELL.When I started the Amazonia collection, what counted for me the most was the very bright, vivid-green turquoise colour. I felt that this green gave me a source of fresh air, allowing me to breathe.

For me, it was a beautiful way to resist the polluted urban life to dream about tropical forests, plants and animals and feel the freshness of pure oxygen. The most spectacular pieces I make, such as cuffs, necklaces and rings, are more than just jewellery to me they are my objects, my mini works of art, things to look at and play with.

HOW MANY PIECES OF JEWELLERY DO YOU MAKE ANNUALLY?I create all throughout the year and have almost no vacation. Creation is such a natural process for me, a natural state of mind. As I create in a very spontaneous way, there is no strict number of pieces I make per year. I would say between 200 and 300 pieces. Most of them are one-of-a-kind creations.

WHAT KIND OF WOMEN DO YOU CREATE JEWELLERY FOR?The woman who wears Lydia Courteille is full of courage; she is cultivated and looking for emotion and creativity. These women are maybe a little bit shy, so they try to transmit their inner personality through the jewellery that they wear. Wearing my creations is like sending out a code. The woman who wears Lydia Courteille jewellery is not showing off her money she is showing off her taste. She is a free and sensual woman.

Lynks Fine Jewellery Boutique15 Le Loi, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist 1, HCMC, VietnamTel: (+84 8) 3827 2211 - (+84) 989 158 751Email: thanhhoang@lynk.vn - Website: www.lynk.vn

Lynks World High-end Fashion and Skincare30 Dong Khoi, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist 1, HCMC, VietnamTel: (+84 8) 3826 8268 - (+84) 908 210 582Email: dat.vo@lynk.vn - Website: www.lynk.vn

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1 Chanels Montre Pluie de Cristal comes in 18k white gold, rock crystal and diamonds; 2.Vacheron Constantins Kalla Haute Couture Pampilles is the newest offering in the watch manufacturers much-acclaimed Kalla collec-tion 3.Damianis Mimosa collection depicts the delicate ower using rubies and sapphires in shades of red and pink; 4. Piagets Limelight Garden Party Ref. G0A37185 watch comes with 1,023 brilliant-cut diamonds on the dial and a bracelet made of 130 white Akoya pearls; 5. Chopards handwound LHeure du Diamant watch is made in 18k white gold and fully set with navette-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds (model image courtesy of Dior)

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make a merry statement this season with flora- and fauna-inspired jewelled watches. White diamonds, cool sapphires and fiery rubies transform timepieces into dazzling displays of nature on ones wrist.

With all fully jewelled watches, subtlety is not the name of the game. All are meant to surprise and delight. Some designs lean towards refinement, while others are suitably bold. For instance, a closer look at Chopards LHeure du Diamant reveals a pattern of leaves formed by the diamonds on the strap. What looks like a broken geometric pattern on the dial of Chanels Montre Pluie de Cristal turns out to be a diamond flower surrounded by undefined shapes like a flower that has fallen from its tree coming to rest on the ground amid scattered twigs and leaves. Jewels are perfect for secret watches: diamond leaves cover the dials of Piagets Limelight Garden Party Ref. G0A37185 and Vacheron Constantins Kalla Haute Couture Pampilles. Damiani pays an ode to nature with its Mimosa watch bracelet, which uses varying shades of rubies and sapphires to resemble a generous sprig of red and pink mimosas twined around your wrist.

of

the

by Katrina Balmaceda

JEWELLED WATCHES

Radiant flora-and fauna-inspired watches light up this seasons lookbook

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Find the perfect gift for every woman in your life

Shes a powerhouse in the boardroom and the mere sound of her approaching Louboutins sends fear into many a heart. Butter up the bigwig with this pav diamond Philip Stein Prestige watch in rose gold, Coil on the Rocks rings from Garavelli, or Chanels Perle de Rosee bracelet, that all say classy with a touch of fierce.

Boss

by Fiona Low

GIFT SUGGESTIONS

Shopping for a woman can be one of the hardest things in life, more so when you have to battle the holiday throngs to hunt for the perfect present. This festive season, let Solitaire help take the stress out of your

shopping. Whether its a boss youve been trying to impress, or the little sister you dote on, weve put together a selection of gifts theyre

sure to cherish.

the bigwig with this pav diamond Philip Stein Prestige watch in rose egold, Coil on the Rocks rings from sGaravelli, or Chanels Perle de Roseebracelet, that all say classy with a touch of fierce.

Wishing ell^

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Little Sister

Mother -in-lawScore some brownie points with an elegant accessory for the mother-in-law, whos hosting this years holiday cocktails. Think refined, subtle pieces in muted tones like this pair of Stefan Hafner pearl earrings with pear-shaped diamonds from the Venus collection, and the Eden bracelet watch by Damiani.

Shes a laugh to be around and the life of every party. Go crazy with bright colours and a quirky design for the confidante who is cool enough to pull it off. Let her know shes unique with Harry Winstons Premier Feathers Lady Amherst watch, a deep pink tourmaline and sapphire ring from Hemmerle, and Tiffany & Co.s Bird on a Rock brooch with diamonds and green tourmaline set in 18k gold and platinum.

She still believes in fairy tales and has been waiting for her Prince Charming since she was nine, but you adore her just the same. Dote on little sis with a saccharine sweet pink opal Chaumet ring. Studded with purple sapphires, diamonds and red spinel, itll appeal to the princess in her. Add a coral watch bangle from the Frey Willies Magic Sphinx collection to match.

Best friend

know she s unique with Harry Winston s Premier Feathers Lady Amherst watch, a deep tpink tourmaline and sapphire ring from Hemmerle, and Tiffany & Co.s Bird on a Rock brooch with diamonds and green tourmaline set in 18k gold and platinum.

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FROM TOP TO BOTTOMPatek Philippes Nautilus Ref. 5726/1A-010, Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-011 and Nauti-lus Ref.5980/1A-019

White

Snowy dials to match that wintry feeling

by Emilie Yabut-Razon

PATEK PHILIPPE

There was the rose-gold year, an all-black year and a techno-look year for watches. This time around, the trend charts point towards white. Very few manufactures can deliver white dials that impress, and Patek Philippe aims to do just that with its Nautilus. Launched in 1976, the iconic watch with its black-blue dial and horizontally embossed pattern now comes in white, and the collection counts three new additions:

The Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-011 comes in steel, with a silvery-white dial in a 40mm contoured case, equipped with the automatic calibre 324S C, with a date in an aperture and a central-sweep seconds hand. The Nautilus Ref. 5726/1A-010 features an annual calendar movement with the day of the week, the month, moon phases and a 24-hour indicator on the dial. The 40.5mm watch comes in stainless steel. The Nautilus Ref. 5980/1A-019 is a chronograph with a tone-on-tone monocounter at 6 oclock. Fitted with the calibre CH 28-520 C, the watch is the sportiest of all three new models. Gold hands and applied hour markers on all the watches are blackened for increased readability on the silvery-white dials during daytime, and are adorned with white luminescent coating for night reading.

Knights

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reciousportraitsJewellery that tells a story with painted porcelain

Fine jewellery is not the first thing that comes to mind when one thinks of Saxony, Germany, the land of cakes, clocks and watches. But Meissen, which has produced porcelain works of art in the region for 300 years, is confident of carving a bejewelled reputation for the region.

Although Meissen has created accessories for decades, it only recently took a determined step towards developing its jewellery collection, having opened its first Meissen Joaillerie mono-brand boutique last April. A few of its pieces, such as the Love Letters rings and some items in the 1722 Swords collection, are made solely of precious metals and stones. Its Royal Blossom rings are adorned with

diamond-studded golden flowers.Most of the pieces, however, show off the

companys expertise in miniature-painted porcelain. Dragons, Arabian nights and forget-me-nots are depicted in the Mystery collection. Varying in colour theme from amethyst to black and white, the porcelain paintings are surrounded by white or champagne-coloured diamonds and framed by white gold or rose gold, and are either mounted on a ring or hung as a pendant on a chain. Similarly, each Meissen timepiece comes with a porcelain dial either hand painted or plain in a diamond-studded golden case and a lizard-leather strap. More intricate creations are found in the 1SRXKSPrVIrange, in which each

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by Katrina Balmaceda

MEISSEN JEWELLERY

THIS PAGE FROM LEFTPug pendant in hand-painted porcelain in 18k rose gold and one white diamond; Follia chain in 18k white gold with white diamonds and handpainted porce-lain; Forget-me-not amethyst Mystery ring in 18k rose gold with 60 champagne-coloured diamonds and hand-painted porcelain

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necklace features a round porcelain ball or, in some pieces, a freshwater pearl painted with a scene, such as houses along the Venetian Grand Canal or the Lutheran church in Dresden, the capital city of Saxony.

Birdhouse pendants that combine the use of gold, diamonds and porcelain count among Meissens objets dart. But perhaps most memorable is Le Club du Mops. Although it is based on a design by Meissen created in 1740, its renaissance has received a warm welcome and Le Club du Mops remains one of the companys most endearing collections, beloved by some famous style icons. It presents only one design: a pug pendant formed in porcelain, of course that comes in black or white, with a leather necklace to match.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Blossoms Mystery ring with white porcelain, rock crystal, 18k rose gold and 420 white diamonds; Bird House in 18k rose gold, 18k white gold and 433 white diamonds, with birds handpainted on porcelain; Meissen Joaillerie Timepieces with diamond-studded 18k rose gold case, handpainted porcelain dial and lizard leather wristband

DESIGN

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DESIGN

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Famously reclusive, the late Suzanne Belperron was one of the most important jewellery designers of the 20th century. But who was she?

by Lisa-Ann Lee

SUZANNE BELPERRON

Belperron, like her fabled creations, was a study in contradictions. Intensely private, she never gave interviews and insisted on receiving her clients, accepted only through referrals, at her apartment in Paris (although it is said that she made an exception for the French novelist Colette). With a clientle that read like a Rolodex of societys finest her patrons included the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Diana Vreeland, Elsa Schiaparelli and Gary Cooper she was content to remain in the shadows where the public was concerned. As the late Manhattan jewellery expert Barry Weber once noted: Although she is very famous in our industry, she is not a household name, such as Cartier or many of the other famous French designers... [and her work is] so rare that we seldom see it and it hardly ever comes available on the market. Belperron never sought fame or fortune; even though jewellery houses such as Tiffany & Co. expressed interest in collaborating with her, she turned them all down, preferring to remain in France working out of her apartment.

It takes a measure of confidence for an artist to leave their work unsigned, and the late French jewellery designer, Suzanne Belperron, certainly had no lack of it. When asked why she refused to leave her mark on her creations, she famously replied that her style was her signature.

Whether she had any inkling that her jewels would be so coveted after her death is anybodys guess, but the decades following her passing in 1983 have shown that the cult reputation they enjoyed among royalty and society mavens has not diminished. If anything, time has only heightened their allure. In November 2011, a Belperron bracelet featuring tourmalines, peridots, beryls and coloured sapphires fetched a record price of USD350,000, more than double its pre-sale estimate. Six months later in Geneva, Sothebys conducted a white glove auction of 60 jewels from her personal collection that fetched triple its pre-sale estimation, a total of USD3.5 million.

FROM LEFTTwo scroll pins described as brilliantly clamped colossal clips of crystal and diamonds, photo-graphed by Horst P Horst for Vogues October issue, 1935 (image courtesy of Siegelson) Gold and diamond ring, Yin et Yang, circa 1923. Suzanne Belperrons engage-ment ring, set with an old-mine diamond of-fered for the occasion by her future husband, Jean Belperron

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Her curvilinear pieces hinted at the rebellious spirit behind her elegant, reserved countenance

0

Despite her reclusive personality, Belperron was far from timid. She grew up during the suffragette era with the belief that women were capable of doing anything to which they put their minds, and during the Second World War she insisted on remaining in Paris despite receiving no shortage of offers to help her escape. Indeed, she was granted the rank of the Knight of the Legion of Honour in 1963 in recognition of her efforts in the Resistance.

Despite not being born into the jewellery trade, Belperron showed an aptitude for design early on and was encouraged by her mother to study art at the cole des Beaux-Arts in Besanon. After graduating, she moved to Paris where, after a brief stint working at

Cartier, she joined the house of Boivin in 1921. It was here, at the height of the Art Deco movement, that one started getting glimpses of her inimitable personal style. In contrast to the angular, geometric designs that were all the rage at the time, her curvilinear pieces hinted at the rebellious spirit behind her elegant, reserved countenance.

Her style was finally allowed to flourish when she left Boivin in 1933 to partner with Bernard Herz, a dealer in precious stones who gave her carte blanche with her designs. The years that followed saw Belperron breaking many of the established rules that governed the industry. An avid traveller, she incorporated various techniques and stones she had picked up during her sojourns

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Her clientele read like a Rolodex of WSGMIX]WRIWXERHMRGPYHIHXLI(YOIERH(YGLIWWSJ;MRHWSV(MERE:VIIPERHElsa Schiaparelli and Gary Cooper

OPPOSITE PAGE, Suzanne Belperrons idiosyncratic designs have set the prece-dence for many high jewellery collections that we see today (Image courtesy of Sothebys) (inset) Pineapple-shaped citrine earrings, with gold leaves and yellow-gold mount; rock crystal and diamond brooch in descending scroll design

THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFTNatural pearl and diamond brooch, cir-ca1935; Fleur sapphire and diamond brooch, circa 1945; Sapphire and diamond ring, circa 1945; Diamond bangle in white gold; Cuff in yellow gold with tourmaline, em-erald, beryls, peridot and sapphires. It holds the record for most expensive Suzanne Belperron bracelet sold at auction

abroad, never allowing herself to be awed by the material value of the stones she worked with. Indeed, as illustrated by the sapphire, diamond of Windsor, she was fond of mixing and matching precious stones with semi-precious materials such as rock crystal, smoky quartz, chalcedony and agate.

Belperron was fascinated by fluidity and movement, as well as the way the stones reflected light. As a result, her rings were often sculptural in design and her creations were marked by voluptuous curves and swirls, employing unique settings not found in any other jewellery house. Some of her favourite motifs were those found in nature grapes, flowers, leaves, birds and butterflies and her gold jewellery often bore a distinctive textured finish. Describing the hallmarks that set her apart from her contemporaries, the journalist Ccile Sandoz wrote in a 1961 edition of the San Francisco Sunday Chronicle that her jewels possessed an abstract fluidity

of form, a Pharaonic or Aztec sheen that gives a centuries-old patina and a highly personal technique of setting precious gems in larger semi-precious stones.

Belperron continued working through the war. Unable to save her business partner from being taken away by the Nazis, she did the next best thing and registered the business that they shared under her name so that the Gestapo would spare it. Herz died in a concentration camp but his son, who was taken as a prisoner of war, survived and she renamed the company Herz-Suzanne Belperron when he returned in 1945.

After she passed away at the age of 82, it seemed for a while as though her name was destined to fade into obscurity. However, the 1987 Sothebys auction of the Duchess of Windsors jewellery collection ensured that her name would continue to be remembered; this resurgence of interest reached new heights in 2007 when her complete personal archives, which she was rumoured to have destroyed, were discovered in a small, nondescript apartment in Paris.

Today, her jewels are being reissued by New York jeweller Verdura, which bought 22 jewels from the May 2012 Sothebys auction. Just as they were the talk of society when Belperron was still alive, so are they now as a new generation acquaints itself with her work and legendary style.

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Indeed, all that glitters doesnt always have to be gold. Silver mostly seen as a mere setting option, rather than the star of the piece, is coming into vogue. In ancient times,

silver was mined to create ornaments and jewellery as status symbols and tokens of wealth. We are now witnessing a renewed desire for this precious metal, for its lustre,

understated, sculptural quality and better affordability. Several high jewellery brands have started offering fine silver collections for the very first time:

some with minimalist appeal, others with avant-garde aesthetics, but all complemented by precious gemstones.

A style renaissance in the makingetal

Crowning

David Yurman David Yurman has recently launched a new jewellery collection, Labyrinth, highlighting a combination of

diamonds, coloured gemstones and silver. Bangles and a pendant necklace from the collection echo David Yurmans

signature cable design featuring a curved, twisted helix in sterling silver laced with 18k yellow gold.

Hemmerle Hemmerles skillful juxtaposition of materials is evident in this pair of earrings, featuring silver and iron set against white gold and old-cut diamonds. The Munich-based jeweller began creating avant-garde pieces in 1995. A client, who preferred less fanciful and Berlin iron jewellery, had inspired Hemmerle to explore different types of metals in its designs.

Vahan JewelryNew York-based Vahan Jewellerys moir-beaded sterling silver and gold bracelets, first introduced in the 1990s, are cemented as timeless classics. Its latest designs feature sterling silver and 18k yellow gold, studded with diamonds. Vahans bracelets are a modern interpretation of the jewellers whimsical Neptune Bracelet, created in 1969 for Bergdorf Goodman.

by Sandy Tan

SILVER JEWELLERY

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Ferragamo JewelsSalvatore Ferragamo debuted its jewellery

collections this year, presenting the Scarpina, Intreccio, Futurista, Vara and

Gancino lines. Designs such as the Vara silver cuff and Scarpina gold and silver

pendants were inspired by materials used in Salvatore Ferragamos fashion

collections, such as the buckles that embellish its bespoke shoes.

Tiffany & Co. Style is to be simple, Elsa Peretti, known for her asymmetric, organic jewellery and nature-inspired designs, once said. She has designed a selection of sterling silver jewellery for Tiffany & Co. The Bone Cuff sits well on the wrist while the Feather Cuff sports more fluid lines with an infinity shape in sterling silver and black jade.

Damiani Italian jeweller Damiani has launched its

first silver and diamond jewellery collection, Damianissima.925. The collection includes silver rings and pendants which feature a diamond-set structure in the shape of the letter D, interpreted

from Damianis logo. Mother of pearl is used in softer, more delicate designs while darker tones

are created with onyx.

We are now witnessing a renewed desire for silver

coveted for its lustre, sculptural quality and better affordability

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Two centuries ago, Abraham-Louis Breguet designed the first known wristwatch for Caroline Murat, the Queen of Naples. It was ahead of its time: an ultra-thin minute repeater with an oblong case, equipped with a thermometer and mounted on exceptionally fine wristlets of hair entwined with gold thread. To celebrate this milestone, Breguet recently unveiled a limited edition timepiece, the Reine de Naples anniversary special, together with its high jewellery collection.

The watch is the latest in the line of Breguets Grande Complications. Like Caroline Murats watch, the timepiece has a striking mechanism, marking every hour with two chimes repeated thrice. The striking hammers are shown on the dial, at 1 and 11 oclock, and between them is a diamond heart of a rose engraved in gold. A hand-engraved oscillating weight in18k gold and decoration seen through the sapphire crystal caseback form an image of a Mediterranean-style garden pavilion identical to the residences of Caroline Murat. The case is an ovoid shape in 18k white gold featuring a finely fluted caseband. The bezel and caseband are set with 28 brilliant-cut diamonds and 27 blue sapphires, while the crown features a large briolette-cut diamond. The silvered gold dial and its flange are paved with 233 diamonds and 303 blue sapphires with different nuances, presenting a subtle colour gradient. And as a final touch, the watch is mounted on an alligator strap with a folding clasp set with 26 diamonds.

The Reine de Naples jewellery set comprises a ring, pair of earrings, necklace and tiara, all in platinum. The central motif of the jewels in the set is an oval-cut blue sapphire, surrounded by two ovoid rings paved with baguette-cut diamonds in an echo of the case of the first wristwatch.

Celebrating 200 years of the first wristwatch

Set onby Charmaine Tai

BREGUET

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of Curiosities76

the rule

reakerby Melissa Pearce

DELFINA DELETTREZ

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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

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OPPOSITE PAGESpiders web cuff

THIS PAGE, CLOCK-WISE FROM LEFTMetalphysic cuff in gold with white marble, cats eye, turquoise and onyx; Metalphysic necklace in gold with pearls; Elizabeth Lipssingle earring in gold with ruby

he may not take herself too seriously, but Delfina Delettrez has a deep regard for artisans. She is daughter to

Fendis head of accessories, Silvia Venturini Fendi, and she is also part-French, her father being jewellery designer Bernard Delletrez. Its no surprise therefore that her works show an obsession to detail, being so obviously wired into the familial DNA.

Her childhood was spent in Rome, Rio de Janeiro and a village in the south of France. She now does shows in Paris, but Rome is where she has based her workshop. Alongside the best in the profession, Delettrez brings her tongue-in-cheek creations to life.

Delfina Delettrez treads a playful line between the gothic and the ironic that can make even spiders look cheerful

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE PIECES OF JEWELLERY TO WORK ON?I love to design necklaces. You can play more with enamels and the most unusual and fragile materials. I like chokers very much because of their rigidity and the fact that they are attached to the neck in a way that gives an immediate regality to your allure.

IS THERE A NECKLACE YOU ARE PARTICULARLY PLEASED WITH MORE THAN OTHERS AND WHY?

The resin heart chokers from my collection Love is in the Hair, which are leather chokers to which you can attach resin hearts that you can personalise, putting souvenirs inside for example hair. Through those, I can carry a little part of the people I love with me its a different way to have them close to me even when its not possible. The two hearts I am extremely bound to are one containing my daughters first curl of hair (The First Cut) and one holding one of my closest friends hair (The Friendship).

WHAT INSPIRED THIS PARTICULAR DESIGN?These necklaces combine two particular inspirations: one of my favourite artists Frida Kahlo, specifically her Self-Portrait with Cropped Hair (1940), and a modern reinterpretation of

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFTMarchesa Luisa Casati is one of Delettrezs icons; Metalphysic necklace in gold with pearls; First Cut resin choker from the Love is in the Hair collection

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I like chokers very much because they are attached to the neck in a way that gives an immediate regality to your allure

the concept of Victorian jewels and the periods use of mourning jewellery.

IS THERE SOMETHING ONE NEEDS TO KEEP IN MIND WHEN DESIGNING NECKLACES?I try not to exaggerate the weight of the jewels.

WHAT IS INSPIRING YOUR WORK AT THE MOMENT?There might be a recurring inspiration or something very specific to now but nature is my greatest source of inspiration. Its a constant evolution and a constant discovery.

WHAT WAS THE FIRST PIECE OF JEWELLERY YOU EVER MADE?My first creation was a necklace with skulls. I got the inspiration during a trip to Cuba where I found some coloured Santera (a religion in which African Yoruba deities are identified with Roman Catholic saints) necklaces made of seeds at a market. I fell in love with their colours and their lightness. With my first necklace I wanted to recreate that effect by putting together a lot of small handmade skulls in bone, silver, golden silver and onyx, one after the other, in order to make the alternation of the colours stand out from a certain distance. I find input for my jewels all around me, sometimes in the simplest things and in cultural traditions different from mine.

WHEN DID YOU REALISE YOUR INTEREST IN MAKING JEWELLERY?When I felt the need to make jewellery for myself.

WHAT KIND OF WOMEN WEAR YOUR JEWELLERY?Women with strong personalities, a great sense of irony and a greater sense of humour. Women who give importance to the accessory and dont fear being unconventional, who are not afraid to be noticed.

YOUVE MENTIONED THAT FASHION ICON MARCHESA LUISA CASATI IS SOMEONE YOU ADMIRE.Very much. Her strong character showed in her personal style: she was so eclectic, so different. She explained herself best with her most famous quote, I want to be a living work of art.

ARE THERE ANY JEWELLERY DESIGNERS YOU ADMIRE?I admire everything that is innovative. I like smart jewels. I look up to people who dedicate time and research to their creations. For example, people who forge an association between classic jewellery and new materials and technologies.

WHAT IS THE MOST ENJOYABLE ASPECT OF YOUR JOB? ANY FAVOURITE MATERIALS?The length of time it takes to create a piece the jewellerys journey from the idea to the finishing and the result is long and cannot be made shorter. In a world where everything is so hectic,its a big exercise in keeping calm. This long period of time allows you the freedom to make some changes during the finishing process: its a continuous metamorphosis. At the moment my favourite material is marble. Its cold, rigid and very pure; I like the white one from Carrara (in Tuscany, Italy) that Ive used in my latest collection Metalphysic, because it gives a sense of lightness.

DO YOU COLLECT ANYTHING? I collect a lot of things skulls, insects, vinyl records, old anatomy books, dresses from Roman haute couture, antique miniature mirrors. Im fascinated by the way insects move; they seem like little robots. Looking at their mechanical movements mesmerises me; I can spend a lot of time watching them. I collect spiders, butterflies, beetles and all the strange things that I find in taxidermist shops or in markets around the world. I display them in my office, boutique and home. I love them!

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The Biennale des Antiquaires proved to be the perfect staging ground for fabulous haute joaillerie

by Y-Jean Mun Del Salle

BIENNALE DES ANTIQUAIRES

ofPalace

DreamsThe year is 1956. In Paris, Pierre Vandermeersch, President of the National Union of Antiques Dealers, together with several young traders, had come to the conclusion that casual visits to antiques shops dispersed throughout the city no longer enticed collectors and connoisseurs, and that what was needed was an infusion of extravagance and glamour through a single grand event in the form of the Antiques Fair of France, which would assemble a diverse group of antiquarians in a majestic display of strength and unity.

Initially based at the Palais des Expositions and placed together with household appliances, the fair was soon searching for a more prestigious venue worthy of the objects on show. Subsequently, in 1962, Andr Malraux, the then French minister of culture, offered the Grand Palais originally built for the Universal Exhibition (world fair) of 1900 to the antiquarians and decorators to showcase their wares, which proved to be a magical gateway to freedom and fantasy. Amid the pavilions, gardens, flower shows and opulent objects of ancient art, the beau monde socialised at debutante balls and gala evenings. Vandermeersch described their goal in the preface of the shows catalogue: An international exhibition where the

French could prove their worth, invite their neighbours, and lend an additional jewel to the prestige of Paris.

In 1964, an elite group of French fine jewellers were invited to inject sparkle to the event. Having already turned Paris into a jewellery hub, they were recognised for sharing the same ideals as their antiquarian counterparts through their relentless pursuit of perfection in creativity and craftsmanship, although engaged in different spheres of activity. Demands placed by their clients were just as challenging, for both artists and artisans must imbue their creations with soul

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOPBouquet dAiles brooch set with emeralds, colored sapphires, ne stones and diamonds, BOUCHERON; Guipure Framboise Rebrode earrings in 18k ping gold with pink tourmalines, re opals, amethysts and purple spinels, DIOR; Dear Dior Dentelle Tourmaline Rebrode ring in yel-low gold, diamonds, fancy yellow dia-monds, chrysoberyls, emeralds, demantoid garnets, haynes, re opals, peridots and Paraba tourmalines; the Grand Palais in Paris was originally built as an exhibition space and museum in 1897; Comet Toi Moi ring with pink and blue diamonds, CHANEL; Cancer clip with pearl, diamonds and onyx, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

and pay trib