GRAM Magazine: June 2012 // Edition 17

MELBOURNE ISSUE 17 FREE

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blogging community.

This monthNot only are pomegranates sweet and tasty, they are also packed

with vitamins and antioxidants – and are now in season. This month

check out reviews of Hawk & Hunter, Bomb Café, Lux Foundry,

Temple Brewery, Mr Mason, Souper Burger and more. Danielle Gullaci, Editor

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SCAN TAG FOR MORE INFO ON

hAwk & huNTER(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

5

SCAN TAG TO COMMENT ON THIS ARTICLE(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

Opening hours

Monday to Sunday: 6.30am – 8pm

Coffee: Red Star Coffee

Mr LB: “Ripponlea is a tiny suburb within the Port Phillip area that is

usually passed through when going from point A to point B. With a tiny

population of approximately 2000 people, you would think that this little

suburb has nothing to offer other than gorgeous housing estates and

majestic autumn leaves. However, you would be quite mistaken. Not only

is there the impressive Ripponlea Estate, but it is also home to one of the

world’s best restaurants, Attica. The only thing missing is a fabulous café

and the boys that brought you The Little Ox have crossed the Nepean

Highway to bring you Hawk & Hunter.

Upon first glance of the Hawk & Hunter space, it immediately resonated

something special. There is no resemblance to The Little Ox here, with an

impressively independent look of reinforced iron-made shelves that hang

from the roof and plenty of table space for groups, singles and couples.

There is a quirky side to the décor with various flower combinations

and impressive wall art of old newspaper clippings and a large cut up

tree. It’s a café space that’s attractive, alluring and with an ambiance that

makes you want to hang around and take it all in.

It was coffee time and I had to order my long black [$3.50] from Red Star

Coffee. It was a good, smooth coffee with plenty of fruity flavours. With a

crisp taste it brought a unique coffee that all brunch goers would love. My

only criticism was that there was a little too much water for my liking and

in turn the flavours had been slightly diluted.

Having been situated at the end of the communal table and fascinated as

to how the kitchen operated, it became quickly apparent that I was not

only hungry but excited. The staff were nice enough to tell us that food had

a wait of 20 minutes, but being its first weekend it was understandable.

The menu itself was impressive with an extensive selection of brunch

options with some individuality. I ended up going for the Mexican Spiced

Tomato and Corn – salsa, hard tacos, avocado, coriander and scrambled

eggs + chorizo [$15 + $4.5].

Our meals took a little while and this may be attributed to the small

size of the kitchen in comparison to the sheer size of the café, however

this shouldn’t be discounted. The presentation of my meal was good and

still inviting enough to take a little piece of the salsa as I waited for Miss

SL’s camera. I was given soft tacos instead of hard, which I think was

better anyway. All the ingredients were well-balanced with a definite

Mexican taste. The scrambled eggs were moist and went perfectly with

the smokey chorizo. In fact, it was possibly the best chorizo I have tasted

and it was definitely worth the extra $4.50. The only real fault would have

been the lack of spices from the salsa. As with any good salsa there was a

fantastic fresh taste but the tomato didn’t have that kick. Overall, it was a

simple tasting meal that satisfied my Mexican brunch craving.

Hawk & Hunter has done Ripponlea well. It has successfully delivered a

unique and tasty brunch spot that is worth stopping in for. Being its first

weekend in operation and hosting to a packed house, it seems that they

can only improve from here on in. I’m already looking forward to my next

visit and I think you will not be disappointed.”

Miss SL: “It seems like it was the weekend of The Little Ox. On Saturday

we’d ducked into their fine establishment for a cheeky coffee, running into

a colleague from work who was battling the chilly temperatures outside

while enjoying her coffee. On the Sunday, we’d organised brunch with

Toy and her partner at the newly opened Hawk & Hunter – the sister café

brought to us by the owners of The Little Ox.

Hawk & HunterGlen Eira Avenue, Ripponlea. Ph: 9523 0798

ABOUT MR LB ANd MISS SL

Two people in Melbourne who love food set about a journey to find the

best brunch in town. Scouting out new brunch places weekly for you to

try is our quest. Don’t worry – coffee quality is just as important to us as

the food.

WWW.BRUNCHAddICT.COM

Words and photos by Brunch Addict

Having been situated at tHe end of tHe communal table and fascinated as to How tHe kitcHen operated, it became quickly apparent tHat i was not only Hungry but excited...tHe menu itself was impressive witH an extensive selection of bruncH options witH some individuality.

7

In the quiet, unassuming streets of Ripponlea, you could barely tell that

there was a hot new café that had just opened up. The electric environment

was immediate as soon as we stepped inside. Mr LB and I were surprised

at how many people knew this place had opened. The crowd seemed like

a mix of food lovers and locals that were patiently waiting to be seated

on one of the two large communal tables or more intimate tables for two.

The interior was beautiful – a combination of wood, steel and quirky pops

of neon mesh-sculptures created an interesting yet casual environment.

Within 20 minutes we were seated and ordered our coffees. I opted for a

short black [$3] in my attempts to remain healthy and to steer away from

lattes. It was beautifully made and had a crisp taste that was sharp enough

without being overbearing. I just loved their bold colour combinations of

the cups and saucers – too cute!

The menu admittedly caught me off guard – it was Mexican themed.

Apart from the classics, breakfast consisted of eggs with beans and/or

chilli. I guess these guys are hopping on the Mexican bandwagon, but I

have to say I quite liked it. It was unconventional and steered away from

the standard options. For my main, I went for the Honey French toast,

caramelised bananas, passionfruit and toasted coconut [$14.50] and

ordered an additional caramel milkshake [$6] to go with the meal.

The food took an extraordinary amount of time to come out (more than

40 minutes!), but given that they’ve just opened up and were still working

out the kinks, they could be forgiven. The portioning of my French toast

was generous – while the breadsticks were small, they were filling. It was

incredibly sweet, which I must admit was a little hard to handle at first.

As the meal went on, I came to appreciate the harmonic balance of the

honey and caramel, blended together to make a thick sauce atop the

banana and bread.

The toast itself wasn’t soaked through all the way, but this was okay as the

dish was bursting with flavour. The passionfruit was tasty, adding a great

crunchy texture to the dish. The toasted coconut was a nice addition, but

quickly got lost amongst the strong flavours of the other elements.

Toy had ordered my second preference – Big Ed’s scrambled eggs, bacon,

chilli and basil, garlic toast and salsa verde [$17.50]. It looked gorgeous

when it came out and her garlic toast looked well-made. She commented

that the garlic was quite overpowering but overall enjoyed her meal.

Her partner had gone for more of an unch (the lunch side of brunch)

option, opting for “The San Swirl – MO” Argentinian steak sandwich

with garlic aioli [$19]. The multigrain bread he ordered looked so soft

and fluffy.

Overall I enjoyed Hawk & Hunter. There needs to be some obvious

ironing out around service, but the food delivered was pretty good and

the coffee was excellent. I’d be interested to come back later in the year

and try some of their other dishes, including their smokey baked bean,

roasted capsicums, spinach and warm Turkish toast [$15] + egg [$18]

or their Hawk & Hunter spiced porridge, poached seasonal fruit and

yoghurt [$9.50]. De-lish!”

Final thought: “An unconventional menu and much-needed brunch spot

for Ripponlea.”

The menu admiTTedly caughT me off guard – iT was mexican Themed. aparT from The classics, breakfasT consisTed of eggs wiTh beans and/or chilli. i guess These guys are hopping on The mexican bandwagon, buT i have To say i quiTe liked iT. iT was unconvenTional and sTeered away from The sTandard opTions.


BOMB CAFÉ(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

9


I’m utterly torn. You see, I’ve found this endearing café and I don’t

particularly want to share it with you. I want it to remain under the radar,

to forever be a place where I can go to escape hipster staff so high on

double espressos – no sugar – that they seem to forget you exist. On the

other hand, it’s so charming that the owners deserve to be flooded with

business and quite possibly a hug or two. All right, you’ve convinced me:

it’s called Bomb Café… but don’t go telling everyone.

You’ll find the inconspicuous painted red front door wedged into the grungy

Johnston Street strip in Abbostford – you know, that section of dusty

shops that verges on creepy, just before you hit Hoddle Street. It’s easy

to miss, so keep an eye out for the pixelated logo on the window. Locals

will tell you with pride that it’s nothing less than an oasis.

Upon first glance the space is miniscule: a few wooden tables, some

bench seating in the front window, a coffee machine, a small display

cabinet featuring baguettes and sweets (think homemade gingerbread

men, hummingbird cupcakes, brownies and pastries), and a kitchen the

size of my palm jammed in the corner. Not even the mirror on the wall

gives an illusion of space.

“There’s a garden out the back,” the waitress smiles knowingly. We make

our way down the corridor, feeling like intruders in a private home. On the

way through we pass a square room with an unused fireplace, framed by

block seats with dark purple cushions. A child’s bike is propped up next to

the pine wood cubes that pose as a table in the centre of the arrangement.

They’re decorated with pink flowers from out the back. A window filters

natural light, which competes with the warm glow from a cylindrical lamp

in the corner.

The polished concrete floor leads us past a young girl washing dishes, the

door through to the toilet and finally, to the back door. To call the outdoor

area a ‘courtyard’ is insufficient. Like the waitress said, it’s a garden.

Overflowing with ferns, flowers, trees, wooden Thai sculptures and even two

fat gold fish in a ceramic water feature, it made me want to play ‘fairies’ all

over again.

Seating is limited: there’s a picnic bench, some plastic green stools for

the kiddies, a rickety wooden table for two or a sturdier outdoor set for

larger groups. It’s sheltered and shady, with shards of light piercing through

the trees. A woman was cutting blooms and brushes to display in a vase

BomB Café229 Johnston Street, Abbotsford. Ph: 9486 0699

ABOUT POPPET’S WINdOW

I am a freelance journalist and blogger who has been published over a range of mediums. I am a

woman of words and refuse to enter stores that misplace an apostrophe. By combining my passion

for prose, my fascination with food and my fervor for photography, I hope to leave an impression

on more than just your taste buds.

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Words and photos by Poppet’s Window

Trading hours 5.30am - 4pm Mon- Fri505 Church St Richmond | ph: 9429 8505

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10

inside. Another bike with training wheels leaned against the bench. Children

tottered around in bare feet, gurgling absurdly cute conversations through

two-toothed smiles. You won’t find a lovelier spot to sip coffee al fresco in

Melbourne.

And what coffee! Everyone who eats at Bomb Café is informed there are

two varieties: Genovese’s rich Italian beans, recommended for black coffee,

or fair trade Gravity organic coffee. We sampled the latter, a bright, creamy

blend with a hint of brown sugar and a lingering, fruity aftertaste. Not quite

as fruity as the small OJ though (large also available), freshly squeezed and

refreshing. Try the blood orange juice when it’s seasonal. Bomb also offers

LSD. But before you get excited about a magical trip in the garden, it stands

for ‘Latte Soy Dandelion’, an earthy coffee alternative made with soy milk and

complete with a bunch of cleansing health benefits. I’d recommend trying

it, although it’s an acquired taste. Alternatively, go for an iced chocolate or

coffee, a frappé or a thickshake.’

The breakfast menu is equal parts affordable and delicious. While health

nuts will be tempted by the pear and cranberry toasted muesli with fruit and

yoghurt, those on their day off are likely to order the ricotta pancakes with

double cream and citrus coulis or homemade strawberry jam (the latter of

which you can purchase by the jar). Then there are thick slices of fruit toast,

banana bread and five breakfast baguettes. But if you really want a taste

explosion, order the eggs.

It was difficult to fault the Eggs Benedict, and the same can most probably

be said about the Florentine alternative. Two slices of perfectly cooked,

buttered sourdough exhibited an external crunch and soft middle. Large

slices of lean, grilled ham blanketed the toast and made a mockery out

of ever ordering bacon. The yolks of the poached eggs gushed out when

pierced with the knife and the whites were cooked through. The light and

zesty homemade hollandaise sauce was creamy without being overly rich.

Yet despite praise for the Eggs Benedict, it paled in comparison to my open

omelette. Again, it came served on two slices of toast – not that you could

see them beneath the mammoth covering. More accurately described as a

delectable slab, it was flavoured with cheese and a small handful of parsley.

Heaving with chunks of flavoursome chorizo, wedges of fresh tomato,

spinach, mild red onion and baby chat potatoes, those with a hangover

should form a cult and worship this dish. There is also a vegetarian option

available, with tomato, spinach, red onion, garlic, basil, pesto and mayo.

Don’t do eggs? Bomb café is vegan friendly, although seriously people, you

don’t know what you’re missing. There’s scrambled tofu or the vegan fry up,

a mixed bag of tomato, spinach, red onion, mushroom and avocado on toast.

When we stumbled across the Bomb, herbed mushrooms and Meredith

goat’s cheese on toast was the daily special. For lunch, there are plenty of

baguettes and bruschetta options, as well as rumours of ravishing risottos.

So there you have it, my new favourite café. It may not boast industrial-chic

décor or staff uniforms of buttoned-to-the-top shirts and statement specs,

but it’s nostalgic, full of character and pours a mean bean. When you top it

all off with hearty eggs, fresh produce and a secret garden, it’s fair to say

that Bomb Café is, well, a blast! But let’s keep it quiet, okay?

Open daily, 7am until 3.30pm

RESTAURANT

12


lux FOuNdRy(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

13


Lux Foundry is one of the friendliest establishments I’ve been to recently

and I can’t rave about it enough.

The café is housed in a heritage listed building, an old stove foundry, and the

décor has retained some of the rugged industrial elements while updating

the look with enamel pendant lamps and classic Thonet chairs. Inside the

building, gasp-inducing cathedral ceilings give lots of light to the brushed

concrete and exposed brick factory floor while the huge outdoor area in

front means no fighting for seats and lots of space for kids to roam when

the weather is warm.

Besides the usual hip café crowd you’d expect in Brunswick, it draws cyclists,

pram-pushing parents and dog owners all in need of a drink and some food.

I found the staff to be welcoming and accommodating for all – the kind of

place where you feel like they’d know your name if you were a regular.

A and I converged into the café with kids and bikes in tow on a weekday

lunch hour. After a bit of faffing by us and patience from the waitress we

finally ordered lunch – an Asian shredded chicken salad, cabbage, snow

peas, peanuts with chilli, lime and sesame oil dressing ($16.50) and an egg

and bacon La Madre panini with tomato relish ($10.50). My salad was a

fresh and crunchy affair, full of exuberant health with a kick of chilli to liven

things up. A’s breakfast panini was fairly stock standard though good quality

ingredients equals a sandwich that’s better than average.

For dessert I trawled the glass cake cabinet indecisively before one of the

staff came to help me. His advice was to go for the berry coconut slice

($4) – and my advice is to do the same! Indulge in layers of sugar with

a Genovese coffee ($3.50) or the creamy and fragrant Lux Chai Latte ($3.70).

The folks at Lux Foundry are so nice that they even let another business

take up shop in their courtyard on Fridays. The Gumbo Kitchen food truck

parks there every Friday night, serving gumbo, po’ boys and other Louisiana

inspired food. Yet another reason to visit.

Opening hours

Monday to Friday: 7.30am – 4.00pm

Saturday and Sunday: 8.00am – 5.00pm

LUX FOUNDRY21 Hope Street, Brunswick. Ph: 9387 8075

ABOUT JETSETTING JOYCEJetsetting Joyce started blogging at Mel: Hot or Not in 2009. It contains honest and informative reviews about everything Melbourne – restaurants, bars, theatre, festivals, events, shops and businesses – all written with one decisive criteria in mind - is it Hot or Not?

WWW.MELHOTORNOT.COM

Words and photos by Jetsetting Joyce

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14


SpOONFul(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

15


There is obviously some kind of ‘spoonful of sugar making the medicine go

down’ reference going begging here, but this really is the sweetest place in all

of Prahran. I wanted to build a nest inside it and hide out from the rest of the

world for as long as possible. It’s a wonderful, comfortable, delicious nook.

Spoonful is a dear place, frequented by the mummy crowd but also the

hip brown trouser wearing crowd. It’s borderline Armadale, away from the

hustle and bustle and significant irritation of Chapel Street, but it has the

charm of Brunswick or Middle Park. From the outside it looks smaller than

it is, and inside it is like being in your favourite old aunt’s kitchen. Things are

mismatched and quirky, but comfortable and warm. The whole place smells

like baking bread and oranges and smiling.

I went with my favourite breakfast companion, Sandi, because she is

remarkable. And so it came to be that I found myself in Prahran’s most

relaxing, beautiful café with intelligent, interesting conversation. What a treat!

Following will just be a series of gushing noises and “It was so lovely!”

because that is the best and perhaps only way to describe Spoonful. To my

delight, the breakfast special was a combination of all of my favourite things

(of course, because being at Spoonful is the same as reading The Magic

Faraway Tree): poached eggs, avocado, spinach and dukkah. Yes please!

Sandi chose the breakfast “salad”, which is a kind of breakfastified Caesar

salad: leaves, baked cherry tomatoes, bacon, long boats of crunchy bread,

mountains of parmesan and a poached egg on top. If that doesn’t sound like

the second best thing to have for breakfast, I don’t know what does.

Our waiter was charismatic but not offensive, which is exactly what I had

expected he would be like. He congratulated us on our fine choice of breakfast

dishes, which is exactly what I had expected he would do. And he danced them

across to our table and did not merely place them on the table but tossed

them with exactly the kind of flourish I expected he would.

The food was magic, with just the right balance of flavours and a completely

excellent bread that was crunchy and chewy in the appropriate amounts. My

poached eggs were very slightly overdone, but do you think it mattered? Sir,

it did not!

Conversation flows better at Spoonful. It is accented by a screen door that creaks

when people open it, as if you’re actually sitting on a wide verandah with wicker

chairs and all your friends. That is the type of place this is. Like a lounge room in

your own house, but with less mess to pick up and fewer stains on things.

SPOONFUL 543 High Street, Prahran. Ph: 9521 5212

ABOUT JUDGING YOUR BREAKFASTJudging Your Breakfast team Anna Spargo-Ryan and Robyn Box put themselves and their tastebuds on the line every week to judge Melbourne’s best and worst breakfasts. They draw on their love of food and writing to leave no breakfast stone unturned in this great city of ours.

WWW.JUDGINGYOURBREAKFAST.COM

Words and photos by Judging Your Breakfast


TEMplE bREwERy(DETAILS ON PG. 3)


Temple Brewery

122 Weston Street, Brunswick East. Ph: 9380 8999

AbOuT TIppLES

Tipples tells the stories of author Leon

Sammartino’s beer soaked adventures

in Melbourne’s craft beer scene. He

can be found propping up the bar at

any number of inner city pubs.

www.TIppLES.wORdpRESS.COM

Words and photos by Tipples

when Temple opened its doors just before Christmas, it seemed that

every beer wanker in Melbourne had some sort of collective epiphany,

all of a sudden every person with an untappd login and a Twitter feed

was raving about the new Temple to beer in the inner north. because

I don’t like crowds and I’m a little bit lazy, it took me a couple of

months before I got around to making the big trip up Lygon Street to

brunswick and I have to say I’m glad I did.

Temple is a slick operation. In fact I haven’t seen a schmicker (any

chance that’s a word?) looking brewhouse and bar since I tripped

down to True South last year.

The bar is all concrete, the tables dark wood with stainless seats, behind

the glass a brand new shiny brewhouse looking all technological, and

interestingly, ready for expansion if all things go well.

You can view the brewhouse from downstairs or head upstairs to

a second ultra modern room with more glass and a balcony which

overlooks the brewery.

I should mention here that if you have never been to a brewery that

‘viewing a brewhouse’ generally speaking is not that interesting. It’s

not like going to sugar shak or willy wonka’s, there is a distinct lack of

action and orange dwarfs and the magic happens within big stainless

steel tanks away from prying eyes.

You will get to see a brewer cleaning stuff though and maybe if you

are really lucky a fermenting brew causing some bubbles in a bucket

of water. but it’s still worth going to Temple for two reasons 1. the food,

and 2. the beer.

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18

I’m going to start with the food. Quite simply it was amazing, even if you

are just drinking and not looking for much you have to get the caramel/

chilli popcorn, it will change your life and ruin all other forms of popcorn

for you. If you are looking for something more substantial I can tell you

the potatoes were fantastic and the Brunswick Rarebit was gooey and

rich and very nice.

And all the food goes nicely with beer. Now there were six beers on

offer the afternoon I was there, I’m not going to tell you about all of

them because, well I didn’t take particularly good notes and hell you

should go along and find out for yourself.

The highlights for me included the Soba Ale, which is an unusual beer. It

is completely sessionable, easy to drink and refreshing, yet complex and

just a little left of centre all at the same time. It is slightly sweeter than I

was expecting and had honey overtones. A nice little beer – Schooner.

Saison seems to be the style du jour, everyone has one and everyone

is raving about them. In fact between Temple and Atticus Finch we

had three different Saisons that afternoon and I have to say I think the

Temple Saison was the pick of them. It was a very good example of the

style (as I understand it) – a gentle sipper, super refreshing and light,

lively and perfectly suited to a sunny Sunday afternoon, or working on

a French farm – Pint.

The third beer is another one that everyone is raving about, a black

IPA called Midnight IPA. The way I see it IPAs seem to go one of two

ways, either the New Zealand/Australian big fruity hops direction,

which means although they are bitter and hoppy they are still quite

approachable. The second direction, and the way I think the Midnight

goes is the American direction, big bitter, oily, resinous hops.

I tend to prefer the first approach. I find it often takes me a little longer

to get used to the American approach and it would be fair to say it was

like that with this beer.

I thought the first pot I had was okay, but nothing spectacular, but by

the time I was finishing my second pot I started to declare “This is a

very good beer.” It was still very bitter, but the body was starting to

come through, not roasted nuttiness that you get with many black IPAs

but rather a smooth, velvety almost oily mouthfeel. A challenging, but

ultimately very pleasant brew – Pint.

So in summary, get out to Temple. With their range of beers there is

something for everyone (the Bicycle beer is a weird little salty tart beer

that’s worth a try and the Brunswick draught is a good quality simple

beer that won’t scare your not beery friends) and even if you don’t like

beer (although then why are you reading this blog?) the food is just

outstanding.

the highlights for me included the soba ale, which is an unusual beer. it is completely sessionable, easy to drink and refreshing, yet complex and just a little left of centre all at the same time. it is slightly sweeter than i was expecting and had honey overtones. a nice little beer – schooner.

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MR MASON(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

21


Not too long ago, in November (last year), a newcomer by the name of Mr

Mason arrived around the Collins Street law precinct.

Situated within the mocha coloured walls of 530 Collins Street, Mr Mason is a

welcome addition to this lonely end of town.

Serving up French inspired cuisine, I was a bit surprised it wasn’t

named Monsieur Mason instead.

I was lucky enough to be invited to try out their lovely dinner menu (which

changes weekly depending on the fresh produce sourced).

As we arrived, I couldn’t help but excitedly run around the place taking in the

sights and sounds of the restaurant and bar area.

One of my favourite decorations in Mr Mason was the feature ceiling with its

multitude of brass shaded lights. The restaurant also features a lounge area

and an outdoor terrace.

I was a bit surprised of how quiet it was for a Saturday night in Melbourne

city and silently hoped that we would not be the only diners there that night.

Luckily as the night progressed, more patrons turned up.

To start us off for the night, the Boy and I were offered a delicious Rustic

Terrine of Confit Duck, Veal & Pistachio, Red Onion Relish, Cornishons with

Housemade Bread ($18.00).

Now as you all know, I don’t eat beef at all, and finding out that the terrine

had a bit of veal in it made me slightly uncomfortable, but I soldiered on and

tried some to ascertain the quality of the terrine.

I did quite enjoy the taste of the terrine (it was more duck than veal), but I left

the Boy to finish the board entirely on his own.

To go with the terrine, we were advised that the matched wines usually paired

with this would be a red, but as we weren’t big fans of red we were provided

with a glass of Domaine Joseph Cattin Pinot Blanc 2009 from France and a

Margaret River Vasse Felix Chardonnay 2010. I must say that I really enjoyed

the Pinot Blanc as it had a rounded sweet finish.

Mr Mason

ABOuT MS I-HuA

A HR professional who enjoys living in Melbourne and spends a lot of her time trying not to

let life get the better of her. This blog is mostly about food…with a bit of travelling, concerts,

books, movies and occasional writing thrown in.

www.MSIHuA.COM

Shop 10, 530 Collins Street, Melbourne. Ph: 9614 4500

Words and photos by I-Hua Lim

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22

To start us off with our mains, our waiter strongly advised us to pair them

with reds, to which we reluctantly agreed, but I learnt to appreciate and enjoy

as the meal progressed.

We were each given a glass of Louis Jadot Beaujolais Gamay 2009 from

France which is a blend of the pinot noir grape with a white variety grape.

As such, it was a lot easier for me to drink.

My main was definitely the winning dish of the night.

Roasted Lamb Rump, Bacon Lardons, Braised Lettuce, Broad Beans, Potato

Dumplings ($32.00). The lamb was cooked to perfection (i.e. nicely medium

rare and not too pink), the jus that accompanied it was rich and hearty. It was

so good that the Boy couldn’t resist stealing some of my lamb.

The Boy on the other hand had the Slow Cooked Rabbit, Baby Summer

Vegetables, Thyme and Creamy Mash ($30.00) which I felt was a little

too gamey and strong for me, and I didn’t quite enjoy it as much as the lamb.

I don’t usually mind rabbit, but I found this dish to be very heady and heavy.

On the upper hand, the sweetness of the baby vegetables made perfect

accompaniments to the dish and really brought it up.

The red too made a good pairing with both hearty dishes.

As our mains were cleared away, our wonderful waiter decided we needed

another glass of wine to keep us entertained and returned with a glass of

Rutherglen Muscat for each of us.

I think it was a reward for trusting him with the recommended red wine from

earlier (something he said he normally would not have paired with red meats,

but given we were not fans of red, he came up with that choice). And bravo

to him for that.

As we shared the amazingly rich Chocolate Soufflé with Vanilla Bean Ice-

Cream ($14.00), I couldn’t help but feel that this was a dessert to die for.

I’d almost given up hope of ever finding good chocolate soufflés in Melbourne

that are rich and not overpoweringly sweet.

Mr Mason’s version was utterly delectable and I have to remind myself to

return for it soon!

I have to say, the staff were delightful, friendly, courteous and knowledgeable.

Despite this being a courtesy meal, I would most definitely return for their

express lunch specials (which are an amazing steal for $15 or $20 [with wine],

an absolute bargain at this end of town).

There were some hits such as the lamb and chocolate soufflé, both of which

are my weaknesses that will keep me coming back for more.

(Ms I-Hua dined as a guest of Mr Mason and The Publican Group Australia)

Food/Cuisine: French

Dining Style: Restaurant

Opening Hours:

Monday to Friday: Breakfast, lunch and dinner

Saturday and Sunday: Available for private events

*Disclaimer: All food ratings and review are purely based on my own experiences

and how I feel about the service, food and quality at the time of visit.


SOupER buRGER(DETAILS ON PG. 3)

25


summary

If you’ve never seen it before you’d be forgiven. When it’s not being hidden

by the buses that stop right out the front, you might not think much of it

if you walked past. From both the exterior and interior it looks as if it has

been part of the scenery for yonks. Truth be told, they’ve only been open

for around five months and their game, as the name suggests, is soup and

burgers. Some years ago, owner and chef Scott had a ripper of a soup recipe

going. Thinking, “why the hell not share it with the world”, he decided to

open his first establishment. But, Melbourne being Melbourne, where your

day can turn from Merino wool to Budgy Smugglers, he knew a soup kitchen

alone wasn’t going to be enough. Harking back to his childhood from a

family vacation to Queensland, Scott told us all about one particular burger

experience that left him gobsmacked and in love. This passion for burgers

sees him at Prahran Market every morning scouting for the freshest, juiciest

produce. After many trials it was Gary’s Quality Meats that made the cut.

With a bunch of different burgers on the menu (all named after people that

helped Scott get Souper Burger up and running) he also offers up a selection

of winter warming soups and chilli dogs. Using a mix of Chuck, Short Rib

and Brisket, some simple seasoning and a homemade burger press, Scott

dished us out the Perry (named after the welder that put the joint together).

Along with the beef pattie the burger comes on a toasted buttered bun, with

lettuce, caramelised onion, tomato, free range bacon, egg, cheddar cheese

plus a choice of sauce (we opted for ketchup and mayo).

COmmENTs

B – “As the time passed and we waited for our meals, I had a feeling this

one man show would produce the goods and it’d be worth the wait. With

the looks of a good old fish ‘n’ chip shop burger, the beef pattie was subtly

seasoned and had been cooked nicely. The combo of the egg and the

creamy cheese makes for a burger that was really one of the creamiest I can

remember having. The caramelised onions were also perfectly cooked and

added a nice sweetness. I really have to say this place is going to give a few

other joints of similar style a run for their money.”

D – “Seeing as it was a slow Monday night with only two other people in

the shop who bought soup, I was wondering why it was taking so long.

However, then I took my first bite and understood the time and care this

guy puts into making his burgers. The beef was slightly thicker than your

average fish ‘n’ chip shop pattie, but it was the extras that really stole the

show. The creamy melted cheese, the yolky egg, caramelised onions and a

bun soaked in butter is what, for me, set this burger above other similar take

away burgers. I have a lot of respect for one man shows who are passionate

about their food, I just feel sorry for him when he gets busy.”

G – “For a place that’s only five months old, this place looks like it has

always been part of the neighbourhood. With a St Kilda like casualness

to it and friendly hospitality, this place impressed the hell out of me. The

nicely seasoned beef pattie was cooked perfectly. The cheddar cheese slice

combined with the mayo made each bite a delight. What topped it for me

was the caramelised onion – just oozing with sweetness taking the burger

up a level. The bun was nicely toasted with no surprises there. The lettuce

and tomato were there and did their job, not taking over the burger. Sorry

folks, no chips here, but you don’t really need any. If you feel like you need a

side, I recommend the Chilli Dog for $5.”

Z – “I walked into this not expecting a whole lot. The concept of soup and

burgers together took me to a weird place. But once I bit into the burger,

that weird place turned into paradise. It was so creamy! A whole bunch

of sweetness oozed from the caramelised onions, the bacon was delicious,

the cheese and egg fantastic, and the small amount of lettuce and tomato

stepped back but did their job. Being lightly seasoned, the meat really

didn’t have to stand out a whole lot in regards to creating any overpowering

flavours. Instead it worked in harmony with its other counterparts to make

me smile with every bite. Being one of the most well-balanced and enjoyable

adventures I’ve had in a while, it really shows that the most important

ingredient in a burger is love. *Wipes tear*”

burger review:souper burger

ABOUT THE BURGER ADVENTURE

The Burger Adventure is a blog that reviews the best burgers from Australia

and around the world. Created by four guys with a passion for beef, buns,

cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, egg, bacon and sauce.

Authors: Brendan Kennedy, David Silcock, George Vafeas and Zenon Predecki.

WWW.THE BURGERADVENTURE.COM

198 Barkly Street, St Kilda. Ph: 0415 470 164

Words and photos by The Burger Adventure

BURGER: SERVIETTES: DRESS CODE: SLEEPINESS: WOULD WE RECOMMEND: PRICE:

Perry 3 Casual 10 minutes Definitely $9.50

27


So Hairy says to me he wants meat pies for lunch. Once upon a time I

would have cussed and moaned that it takes way too long. But now I own a

pressure cooker.

It is still a scary experience (why does it have to sound so evil – spitting and

hissing at me like there’s a filthy big dragon in there) and I still haven’t fully

worked it out, but my oh my, how good are these.

I’m not bothering with homemade pastry, I’m saving that for my retirement

years, but this device could be the answer to all of my impatient cooking

foibles. It took about 75 minutes from start to finish including preparation

– previously it would have taken hours in the oven to get the meat just nice

and tender.

I looked and looked for a recipe online but in the end I threw caution to the

wind and threw bits of this and pieces of that into the cooker and hit the dial.

Hairy had two, I had one (he is having the rest for breakfast today – he’s not

a Weetbix kid). I can’t wait to make ‘party’ sized versions of these. I could

freeze them, right?

So here is my pressure cooker ‘Steak and Mushroom’ pie. I will add the regular

method at the end too.

INGREDIENTS:

1kg trimmed chuck steak

500g mushrooms, sliced

3 carrots, diced

1 onion, chunkily diced

1 heaped tbsp tomato paste

400ml beef stock

1 tsp thyme

1 tsp oregano

1 tbsp cornflour (made into a runny paste with about 1.5 tablespoons of

water)

Puff pastry

1 egg, whisked

Salt and pepper

Pressure cooker method

Turn your cooker to the ‘saute’ function and brown onions, carrot and steak

until browned, for about 6 minutes. Pour in your stock and tomato paste,

add herbs and season well, then seal the pressure cooker (which always feels

‘space shuttle-y’ to me). Turn the pressure dial to high and set the timer for

30 minutes. Vacuum your living room whilst you wait.

Preheat your oven to 200°C and about 15 minutes before the cooker ends,

heat a frying pan with a dash of butter, a drop of oil and/or nothing at all if

you are one of the Teflon cookware brigade (we are of the stainless steel

brigade which makes omelettes a bloody nightmare!), anyway, I digress…

Throw your mushrooms into the frying pan and cook until browned and all

water has been removed (because mushrooms are full of water, you know).

This should take about 10 minutes to get them truly browned and maybe

even a little bit crispy. The smell is unreal.

Release the steam from the pressure cooker according to your manual (this

is the BEST bit – so noisy, so steamy) and then remove your lid and stir the

mushrooms in. You could put the mushrooms in at the beginning, but then

they will just be a bit slimy – eeww – so cook them separately and stir them

in at the end.

The beef mixture will be a bit watery but an amazing colour. Stir in your corn

flour paste and if necessary turn the pressure to ‘saute’ mode again. This will

just give it some heat whilst the corn flour is thickening the gravy.

Line your greased pie dish with pastry, spoon in the meat mixture so it is

just making a mound (does that make sense?), and top with pastry. Seal the

edges (I do mine with a fork) and brush the top with beaten egg. Bake for 20

minutes. Purists may blind bake their pastry first. I’m not a purist, I’m a hurry-

up-and-feed-me-ist so I didn’t think it is necessary, but feel free to do so.

Tomato sauce. Chips. Good to go.

OVEN METHOD:

In addition to the ingredients above, you will need ½ cup of plain flour.

Sauté your onions and carrots in a heavy casserole dish with a slug of oil.

Throw your beef into a plastic bag with about half a cup of flour and salt and

pepper to taste. Shake around until all the beef is covered. I usually then tip

it into a colander to remove the excess flour.

Brown your beef in batches, scraping the bottom of the dish, add herbs,

stock and tomato paste. With your oven set at about 150°C, cook your beef

for about 4 hours, longer if you can but keep checking. The plain flour should

have thickened up the gravy, but if not, use the corn flour method above.

Follow on from the pastry section.

Tomato sauce. Chips. Good to go.

RECIPE: STEAK AND MUSHROOM PIE

ABOUT THE PINK LEOPARDThe Pink Leopard is an heroic, moral cat with pink fur and the manners of an English aristocrat. She only becomes flustered or angry at obtuse or offensive humans who try to disrupt her existence, or at troublesome gadgets, rodents or insects. In

most of her life, she stumbles into a difficult situation and stoically endeavours to make the best of it. All the while cooking.

WWW.THEPINKLEOPARD.NET

Recipe and photos by The Pink Leopard

29


TEN MINUTES BY TRACTOR McCutcheon Pinot Noir 2010

Mornington Peninsula, Victoria. RRP: $77.00

Some people may recoil in horror when they discover that this little lady

knows how to operate a tractor. It was part of an invaluable traineeship when

I worked for a year in a vineyard. I like the name behind the winery ‘Ten

Minutes By Tractor’, although the notion of it taking ten minutes by tractor

between vineyards is a questionable one. I say this because it would depend

on whether you are cruising at the leisurely speed of an old lady or, if instead,

you’re ‘fanging it’ illegally down the desolate back roads like someone (ahem)

may have done in the past… perhaps for legalities sake, I’ll roll with the former.

Ten Minutes By Tractor has been producing top quality Mornington Peninsula

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for just over a decade. Their three vineyards

named Judd, Wallis and McCutcheon are only a short distance from one

another yet display wonderfully different features. The Judd Pinot Noir runs a

thick, savoury path with lots of earthy aromas, while the Wallis leans towards

the spicier spectrum with a more mineral and crisp finish. In the end I found

the wine produced from the McCutcheon vineyard to be the most ethereal

and complete. It captured me with its dusty pink hue and Burgundy-esque

tones, the dark and earthy spices interwoven with wild berries, topped with a

crisp and refined grip on the finish. The McCutcheon Pinot Noir will continue

to seduce over a couple of hours, so pour it into a big Burgundy glass and

serve it alongside suckling pig, mustard and truffle jus, roasted vegetables

and crackling. Well, that is what they did at the winery’s restaurant and boy

oh boy it worked a charm. Available through independent wine retailers.

JAMSHEED WINES La Syrah 2011

70% Yarra Valley & 30% Pyrenees, Victoria. RRP $21.00

The Jamsheed name was derived from an endearing tale drawn from ancient

writings of a Persian king. King Jamsheed was fond of fresh grapes and

would store them in jars over the winter where they would spontaneously

ferment. He set these jars aside and labeled them ‘poison’. One of the women

from the King’s harem, despairing of frequent migraines, chose to commit

suicide and drank from one of the poisoned jars. Awakening the next day,

she found herself miraculously cured of her migraines and informed the

king of the natural powers within his jars. The King was so pleased that

he set about making many jars of ‘poison’. This is just one story of how wine

was discovered.

Winemaker Gary Mills has adhered to the ‘natural powers’ worshipped by

King Jamsheed with the La Syrah 2011 forming part of Jamsheed’s Harem

Series. This unfined and unfiltered wine is a multi-regional blend from two

cool-climate Victorian regions – the Yarra Valley and the Pyrenees. There are

not a lot of wines under $25 that beg for a decent decant prior to drinking

but this is one of those rare occasions when the wine will benefit from a good

slosh of air. After a little air, interesting tart pink grapefruit notes become

discernible followed by plump purple fruits. These flavours are accentuated

by the fact that this has had 80 per cent whole bunches of grapes in the

ferment. It’s spicy and sappy, fresh and raw, and if the tale runs true, La Syrah

could be the breakthrough cure that migraine sufferers have been looking

for. Available at Randall’s Wine Merchant and Wine House.

FRANK CAMORRA Tempranillo 2010

Margaret River, Western Australia. RRP $40.50

Just when you thought celebrity chefs have enough restaurants, cookbooks,

television appearances and supermarket promotions under their belt, you

are proven wrong. This time, they’re taking over the winery! Okay, that’s an

exaggeration, but they have been approached by the Wine Selectors Group

to put their names to a collection of wines made around Australia that will

pair nicely alongside their style of food. It’s a nice idea to encourage the

concept of food and wine matching to a wider audience.

Take Mr Frank Camorra and his robust Spanish menu of MoVida fame.

Tempranillo is unarguably a natural partner for his elegant yet bold Spanish

cuisine. This native Spanish grape is popularly grown in a number of regions

in Australia. In this particular case, we are looking at Margaret River. This

wine possesses that tarry, gravelly tannic grip you like to see in a Tempranillo

complemented by earthy, plum flavours and a bright, balanced acidity. The

mid-length finish falls a little short of making this a big blockbuster style,

but that also means it sits comfortably with a wide range of dishes that

you will discover during a visit to MoVida. This wine is served in the MoVida

restaurants or is available through Wine Selectors.

WINE REVIEWS

ABOUT KRYSTINA MENEGAZZOLa Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this young lady from Melbourne who completed her winemaking degree whilst being a gypsy working in vintages throughout Australia and Italy. Finally she decided to return home and sell wine instead. In her spare time she cooks, eats, drinks buon vino and is a self-confessed Neb Head (someone really into Nebbiolo).

WWW.LADONNADELVINO.COM

Words and photos by Krystina Menegazzo

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Shop 515 Prahran Market 163 Commercial Road, South Yarra | Ph 03 9826 0815

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Enter off Jimmy Watson Lane (cnr Lygon & Elgin) Carlton 3053 | Tel: 03 9348 0385 | Open Wed to Sat 5pm till late, Sun 12pm till late

Gram is available at 1000 venues around

melbourne

bloCK PlaCeBrown Sugar CaféCafé E BiscottiCafé NegritaCafé Segovia

bourKe streetAljisen RamenBottega RestaurantButchers GrillCa De VinCafé EuroCafé On BourkeCafé TonoCafenaticsCarlton ClubDeganiDonatos CaféEarl CanteenElephant and WheelbarrowFlorentino BarGloria JeansGPO Café Imperial HotelIto Noodle CaféIzakaya HachibehKorovaLanes Edge BarLangleys CaféMovida TerrazzaNando'sNudel BarPellegrinis Red ViolinRomano'sRoyal Melbourne HotelSalidaShuji SushiSociety RestaurantSpaghetti TreeSpleen BarSquires Loft SteakhouseStreet CaféThe BundThe Mess HallTuscan Bar GrillTwenty Seconds CaféThe Harbour Kitchen

Collins streetAlfreds Place CaféBistrot D'OrsayBlue BagBox on CollinsCafé EscCharles Dickens TavernCollins QuarterDegani Egons Café Bakery

Feeling FruityGadjoGloria JeansIn A RushKoko BlackLindt Café Macchiato Sushi BarMorganNegroni Bar and GrillParis End CaféPlane Tree CaféRoozerveltsSheni's CurriesSilk roadStrozziSummit Café and BarSwitchboard CaféThe Brazilian BeanThe Kitchen CatThe Sherlock HolmesThe TrustTreasury Restaurant and BarTutti In PiazzaZuffaZuroona Café

deGraves streetBarber on DegravesCafé AndiamoDegraves EspressoGrill’dIssuLittle CupcakesSea SaltThe QuarterTOFWD Deli

doCKlandsBanc CaféCoffee GaugeLa TazzinaLamore DocklandsNixon HotelSquires Loft SteakhouseWatermark

eliZabetH streetCafé ScallettiCafé VictoriaCiti Noodle CaféCoffeaEdelweiss CaféFood IncJasper KitchenLord of the FriesPiazza VittoriaSpigaThe Garden CaféTropicana

eXHibition street180665 Degrees CaféCafé MultitudeCoopers InnDecoy CaféEleven 37Es-X CaféEuropean Bier CaféLocandaSchnitzSushi BurgerThe Maj Café (Her Majesty's Theatre)Toby's EstateTrunk Bar and Café Urban Deli

eXPloration laneLeague of Honest Coffee

Flinders lane101 Café barAdelphiBluestone BreadwellBrunetti (City Square)Bull and Bear TavernBull RunCafé 53Café RemaCafenaticsCecconisChin ChinCity Library CaféCoda Bar RestaurantCoffee EclipseCrema Espresso BarCumulusFriends CaféFull Plate CaféGlicksIl Cubico CaféKCLLustre LoungeNighcat BarOverdraft CaféPapa GooseRoasted Coffee BarRosatiSuperfinoSwiss Club VictoriaTazio Birraria PizzeriaTerra RossaThe TrustVergeYak Bar

Flinders streetBertha BrownDesi DhabaKikoo SushiKitayaLa StazioneNandosPress ClubThe ForumTower SushiTransport Public BarWaterside Hotel Young and Jacksons Pub

Federation sQuareBeer DeluxeCafé ChinottoTime Out CaféTransport/Transit

FranKlin streetMiss Libertine

HardWare laneAffogatoAloi NaBasic BitesCampari HouseCharlie’s BarCreperie Le TriskelKhokolat BarLa La LandMax Café BarPOP Restaurant and BarSettebelloTastebuds of MelbourneThe MillVialetto Restaurant

Hosier laneMistyMovida

la trobe streetBasement @ 350 LatrobeBlaq Café BarCafé NostimoCafenatics on LatrobeClub ChefCoffee AcademyDuke of Kent HotelFrescatis Fine FoodsInternet CaféKanda Sushi Noodle BarKlik food and DrinkLatrobe CaféMr Tulk (State Library North)Oriental SpoonSpicy Noodle CaféWilliam Angliss Bistro

Cbd distributor list

35

LITTLE BOURKE STREETBar HumbugBrother Baba BudanCafé 600 (Hotel Ibis)Ishiya Stonegrill DiningKorean BBQ BuffetKri KriLa Di DaLittle BLongrainMezzo Bar and GrillMrs ParmasPlus 39 PizzaPunch LaneScugnizzoSection 8 (Chinatown)Shuji sushiSMXL CaféSoftbelly BarSorry GrandmaSushi & Bon ApetitThe ApartmentVine Café Bar

LITTLE COLLINS STREETBar LourinhaBasso Bridie O Reilly'sBrisqCacao Fine ChocolatesCafé De TuscanyCaffe e TortoChampagne LoungeChestnut Exchange CaféCouncil House 2ElevensesExchange CoffeeFamish'dFiddler PubGills DinerGordon's Café & BarGuava BeanHairy CanaryHenry and the FoxHudson's CoffeeIrish Times PubKartelKitten clubMenzies TavernOriental Tea HouseOrtigia PizzeriaPonyQuists CoffeeRare SteakhouseSaki Sushi BarStellini BarTengo SushiTerrace DeliUn Caffe Bar

LITTLE LONSDALE STREET1000 Pound Bend166 Espresso BarAngliss RestaurantCafé 111Café 18Don TooEquinoxGianni LuncheonGiraffe CaféHorse BazaarIl VicolettoKoukos CaféMatchModo Mio CaféOddfellows HotelRue BebelonsSeamstressShop 7 EspressoStrikeThe Little Café on Healeys LaneTroika BarYork Café

LONSDALE STREETAspro BleBabboBaguette ClubBarakiClub RetroColonial HotelDeganiDemi TasseEmerald PeacockEncore Café BarGolden MonkeyHikari SushiJ Walk CaféJapanese Pub ShogunKenny's BakeryLatteLove CaféLe TraiteurLegals Café BarMadame Kay'sUrban DeliWheat Restaurant Bar

MEYERS PLACELily BlacksLoopWaiters Restaurant

NEWQUAY PROMENADECafé MediciFish BarLiquid Bar CaféLive BaitMecca BarVic Harbour KitchenWaterside Oriental Bistro

RANKINS LANEManchester Press

RUSSELL STREETA1 Café RestaurantBean RoomBlu Point CaféCafé 294 Chilli CaféChina BarHawkers CaféIan Potter CentreInfinity Café BarIshikai Japanese caféIzakaya Den (Basement)James Squire BrewhouseKing of KingsPostal HallRed HummingbirdSeoul HouseSyn BarTeppansanThe Portland HotelTwo FingersWon Ton HouseZmeg's Café

SPENCER STREETCarron TavernPensione Hotel

SPRING STREETAppitizer KubklamCafé 201City Wine ShopElms Family HotelFederici CaféHudson's CoffeeLime Café BarThe European

SWANSTON STREET3 BelowBeer DeluxeCafé L'IncontroCafé MimoCiti EspressoClaypot KingCrown Café BakeryDruids Café BarEasy Way TeaGiGi Sushi BarGogo SushiHi Fi Bar and BallroomMelbourne Town HallNando'sNelayan IndonesianOld Town

Oxford ScholarSoul CaféStarbucksSushi SushiThe LoungeThe OrderThe Wine BarThree BelowTime Out CaféTransport/TransitYour Thai Rice NoodleYoyogi

ThE CAUSEWAYGrasshopper’s Feast

WILLIAM STREETIllia Café and BarLa Stradda CaféSlateThe Mint

QUEEN STREETBellini (ANZ Building)Chaise LoungeDeganiMercat Cross HotelMichaelangeloMuleta'sNashi NourishRomano'sSegafredoSparrow’s NestSpeck

There are an additional 780 distributors around Melbourne. For the full list, visit our website at www.gram.net.au.

MELBOURNE ISSUE 17 FREE

GRAM Magazine: June 2012 // Edition 17

Documents

Transcript of GRAM Magazine: June 2012 // Edition 17