Baltic Guide 11/2013

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Your free guide to Estonia Your free guide to Estonia NOVEMBER 2013 what where when ENGLISH EDITION The best things to see and do in Estonia www.balticguide.ee Best Italian Restaurants PÖFF – Tallinn Black Nights Film Festival Getting in the holiday spirit Getting in the holiday spirit – Fairs and markets, – Fairs and markets, mulled wines, and other Estonian Christmas favourites! mulled wines, and other Estonian Christmas favourites! Nightlife in the Old Town

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Transcript of Baltic Guide 11/2013

Page 1: Baltic Guide 11/2013

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ENGLISH EDITION

The best things to see and

do in Estonia

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Best Italian Restaurants

PÖFF – Tallinn Black Nights Film Festival

Getting in the holiday spirit Getting in the holiday spirit – Fairs and markets, – Fairs and markets, mulled wines, and other Estonian Christmas favourites!mulled wines, and other Estonian Christmas favourites!

Nightlife in the Old Town

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T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 3editorial

Cosy sweaters and mulled wine

You can tell that the holidays are just around the

corner from the smell of mulled wine or glögg wafting through the streets of the Old Town. For those that have never tried this seasonal favourite, do not tread lightly. Glögg can be any combination of red wine or white wine mixed with dried fruit, nuts and spices (cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, cloves, orange peel), but the real kick comes from those mulled wines that have vodka, or brandy added.

Another familiar holiday smell is that of sauerkraut. Once the annual Christmas market opens in the Town Hall Square, large pans over open flames will be cooking up this traditional soured cab-bage, along with blood sausage and potatoes.

In this issue we’ve got everything you need to get your Christmas shopping done early and have a

little time to relax with a cup or two a mulled wine! There is no shortage of Christmas fairs both here and in the southern Estonian university town of Tartu! We’ve got some tips on where to try holiday foods in Tallinn, as well as which is the best glögg on the market. Tallinn nightlife heats up as the nights get colder – check out Maarja-Liisa’s guide to all the best pubs and clubs in Tallinn too.

Happy travels!

Kristina Lupp

Editor-in-chief

3 editorial 5-6 sightseeing

8-9 restaurants 16-17 Christmas food & drink

shopping

restaurants

Contents

Your Comments■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: [email protected]. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel,

Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel,

Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel,

Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa

Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton

Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic

Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel,

Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson

Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park

Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos

Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni

Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel,

Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von

Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss

Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market,

Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information,

Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus

Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita

Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O

Pick up your free copy at: 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika

Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand

Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking,

Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel,

London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu

Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel,

Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information,

Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare

Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel

Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva

Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff

Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa,

Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House

Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn,

Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers

Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue

Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel

Backpackers Hostel

Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen

Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp

[email protected]

Design: Evelin Linholm

Photography: Andrei Chertkov

Photo: Andrei Chertkov

Model: Marilin Kaareste

Makeup: Oriflame

Style: Ženja Fokin

Clothes: Gant, Liina Stein

Thank you to Schlössle Hotel

Contact Information

Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn,

tel +372 611 77 60

e-mail: [email protected]

Marketing Manager: Helen Kaur

tel +372 58 502 477

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November Highlights01 A PEEK AT THE TITANICThe fate of the world’s most famous ship gets a realistic portrayal at the Titanic exhibit, which will open 15 November at the Tallinn Seaplane Harbour. There are over 150 items at the show which were found four kilometers deep in the sea by the shipwreck. Visitors to the exhibit will also see a reconstruction of many of the ship's rooms.

02 SANTA AND HIS REINDEER AT THE CHRISTMAS MARKETThe legendary Christmas market of Old Town opens on 22 November. Different kinds of handicrafts from Santa’s toy bag are offered at the shops at the Town Square and next to the country’s most beautiful Christmas tree is Santa Claus himself with his reindeer.

03 FROM LIGHT TO NOVEMBER DARKNESSTallinn’s city center and Old Town will turn into a light installationfrom 24 November – 1 Dec ember. It is the first time in Tallinn that the event will be organised with Tallinn Light Biennale.

04 SCORPIONS SINGThe German band Scorpions will rock Tallinn at the Saku Suurhall 12 November. Their hits will raise the roof! Tickets can be bought from Piletilevi, starting from €29.

05 JAZZING INTO CHRISTMASThe main performer of the Christmas Jazz Festival, New York Voices, will perform on 3 December together with the Estonian Big Band at Nokia Concert House. Other main per-fomers include the singer Krystle Warren and pianist Shai Maestro. The Jukka Perkon band at Niguliste Church offers lighthearted entertainment on 4 December.

10-11 nightlife 12-13, 15 shopping

19 beauty 20 relaxation

21 museum22 tartu

23 november events25 museum

26 transport 27 around Estonia

28-30 maps and information@

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Photo: EAS

Photo: E.M. Concert Group

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Pork Schnitzels,Chicken Schnitzels…

Always up to 500g

All dishes prepared by our German chef.

Children’s Menu Available

New German Schnitzel Restaurant in Tallinn’s Old Town.

Free shot of liqueur

when you order a schnitzel.

New location:Rüütli 28/30, Old Town

THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD

RAEKOJA PLATS 15TEL. +372 627 6245MON–SUN 10–23

WWW.TROIKA.EE

Live music every night!FROM RUSSIA...WITH LOVE

UP TO THE SKYBRASSERIE & RESTAURANT TELETORN

WWW.TELETORN.EEWWW.FACEBOOK.COM/RESTORAN/TELETORNWWW.FACEB ETORNCEBOOK.COM/RESTORAN/TELETO

RESTAURANT WITH A VIEW

The TV Tower is located 10 min. from the city centre and 4 min. from the Pirita Marina. Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn

How to get here: You can take buses 34A, 38, and 49 (stop "Teletorn"), or the City Tour bus. Our premises are handicap accessible.

Parking: The TV Tower parking lot has 5 places for tourist buses and 60 places for cars.

Reservations: +372 58150020. E-mail: [email protected], www.teletorn.eeOpen daily 11-23.

BEST VENUES IN TALLINN! WELCOME! FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 47

HEALTHYFRESHDELICIOUS

OPEN SUN-THU 11-23, FRI-SAT 11-24

Foorum Center, Hobujaama 10, TallinnNear the harbour. Ph. +372 6 829 010

Solaris Center, Estonia pst. 9, TallinnNear the National Opera Theatre. Ph. +372 6 285 999

& PIZZAfrom

4,90 €

PASTA

VISIT VAPIANO IN HELSINKI, MIKONKATU 15!

TALLINN HELSINKI STOCKHOLM LONDON WIEN AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG NEW YORK

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T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 5sightseeing

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Viewing Platforms 

Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arms length. The red tiled roofs with white edges are cha-racteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn B1.

Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest buil-ding in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn B1.

Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and roman-

tic sunsets. Tallinn B1.

Raekoja plats

Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

Tallinn Old Town H 1-2.

Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest buil-ding in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants. Tallinn Old Town H 2-3.

The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original loca-tion, in the Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town H 1.

The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Rii-gikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn B1.

The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means, “look into the kitchen”

in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick.Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn B1.

Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabi-ted by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town E2.

A fascinating museum about Soviet his-tory in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with micropho-nes, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests.

The museum is only accessible by gui-ded tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours book up quickly so boo-kings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 6.5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea. Pikk 70,Tallinn A2.

Kiek in de kök

Town Hall Square

Photo: J. Nilson

Photo: T. Tuul

Must-see sights of the Old Town

Photo: Anneli Tandorf

Katariina käik

Raeapteek

Toompea Castle

Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels

Paks Margareeta

KGB Museum

St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik)

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T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 36 sightseeing

Outside of the Old Town

The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).

1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League.

1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town.

1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish.

1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn.

1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital.

1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn.

1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital

and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics.

1991 Tallinn becomes Estonia's capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its popula-tion is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

A quick history of the city of Tallinn

With the days getting shorter, and a little cooler, it’s safe to say you won’t be headed to the beach for sunbathing. If you’re look-ing for a bit of history and some beautiful natural scenery, then this is the day trip for you.

Prior to 1994, Paldiski was a Soviet military base and home to 16,000 military personnel. After 1994, and after the mil-itary base closed, the popula-tion reduced quickly to about 4,300, its population today. The town has been in a state of decay, but slowly seems to be turning around with new investments and development, in particular near the port.

Just outside of Paldiski is the Pakri peninsula. The peninsula itself is stunning, with tall lime-stone cliffs, and is home to the rare black guillemots, which look like small penguins. The Soviet ruins (abandoned bunkers and military debris) that are scattered along the peninsula are being torn down to clean up the area.

Other attractions include the red lighthouse, a tsarist era train station, and the Pakri wind farm. ■

Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. From the 14th cen-tury, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories opened. The colourful wooden hous-es you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the grow-ing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area con-tinues to grow .

Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow liv-ing and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian war of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI

by the Russian tsar. The construc-tion is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, TallinnBy tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city cen-tre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail.

Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

Kalaranna 2-2aBy tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city cen-tre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail, just before the Seaplane Harbour.

Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built by Peter the Great, who apparently helped in its building. As was cus-tomary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre and offers a variety of things to see and do. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. A stroll through the ruins and the surrounds, including the small cemetery, is a moving reminder of the past. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only pro-vides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. A starting point for information on these can be found at:

St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn

Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) - Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn

Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) - Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.

Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life from the past. The venue has a dis-tinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

Photo: Jaak Nilson

Location

Paldiski is located about 50km west of Tallinn. It’s easy to get there by bus or train. Trains leave from Balti jaam train station and take just over an hour to get there. For train timetables visit: www.edel.ee

Tallinn – Paldiski

Day TripTALLINN

Paldiski

KeilaSaue

Maardu

Kalamaja & Kopli

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam)

Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla)

Kadriorg

Pirita

Estonian Open Museum(Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Page 7: Baltic Guide 11/2013

Modern German restaurant

Baieri kelder was founded in 1997 in the city centre of Tallinn.We offer new tasty dishes made according to Modern German recipes.

Only at Baieri Kelder – Enjoy local Estonian beer and Paulaner unfi ltered beer from Munich in the bottle and on tap.

Our pork hocks are the most popular

in Estonia!

Open Mon-Sat 12.00-23.00; Su 14.00-23.00www.baierikelder.eeRoosikrantsi 2a, Tallinn • Phone +372 640 0040

INDIAN RESTAURANT

Open Everyday 11-23Mündi 4 / Pikk 14 (Old Town)

Irish coffee 4€ Vodka 2€

Vana-Tallinn 2.50€ Beer 2.50€

House Wine 2.90€ Appetisers 2€

Grilled Salmon 9.90€ Grilled Duck Fillet 12.90€

Pepper Steak 13.90€ South Indian chicken curry 8€

Just 25 metres from Town Hall Square

Town Hall Square

Mündi

KingaVoorimehe

Dunkri

Kul

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epaRaekoja

Vanaturu

Pikk

kael Viru

Vene

Apteegi

Saiakang

Come and enjoy exotic Kerala, Thai and European dishes!

The restaurant's owner is from Kerala in Southern India.Excellent prices

Suur

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Open everyday 11-23Väike-Karja 6, Old Town, Tallinn

Phone +372 641 871 8 +372 505 561 [email protected]

The city's best pizza!Small pizza 3.90

Large pizza 5.90

Family size pizza 11.90

Salad 3.50

Pasta 4.90

Coffee 1.20

Soft drinks 1.30

Beer 2.50

Restaurant/PubFörsta stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjövägen och sista när man beger sig till havs!

The first place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!

Massor av härliga smakupplevelser!

Taste one of our delicious dishes!Öppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19.

Köket öppet från kl/The kitchen open from 8.

Levande musik varje dag/Live music every day 12-15

Sadamarket Shopping Centrum1a vån/1st floor, 100m från A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals.

Sadama 8/Kai 5 (opposite the Sadamaturg), Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, [email protected], www.seitsemerd.ee

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8 restauTakeaway■ Pizzapoisid, Tondi 32 and Sõle 31.■ TACO Express, Suur-Karja 18.

Tallinn Old Town I2.■ Peetri Pizza, 15 locations in

Tallinn. Most central: Mere pst. 6, Liivalaia 17.

■ Pappa Pizza, Kadaka tee 56A, Punane 48, Pärnu mnt. 326.

■ New York Pizza, Tartu mnt. 73, Merivälja tee 3G and Mahtra 1.

■ Uno Pizza, Vesivärava 37 and Mustika Keskus, A.H. Tammsaare tee 116

■ Opera Pizza, Kotka 3B.■ Tiina Pizza, Liivalaia 27, Mustamäe tee 39.

Italian Restaurants■ Gelsomino, Lai 2. Tallinn Old Town H1-G1.■ Bocca, Olevimägi 9. Tallinn Old Town F3.■ Francesco Sibio, Estonia pst. 9. Tallinn B2.■ Pulcinella, Suur-Karja 2. Tallinn Old Town I2.■ Massimo, Maakri 25. Tallinn B3.■ Gianni, Jõe 4a. Tallinn A3.■ Gusto, Toompuiestee 8. Tallinn B1.■ Trattoria del Gallo Nero, Lai 32. Tallinn

Old Town G1.■ Il Gioco – Klaaspärlimäng, Pärnu mnt 32.

Tallinn B2. ■ Il Gioco – Kesklinna kohvik, Kullasseppa

4. Tallinn Old Town H1.■ La Bottega, Vene 4. Tallinn Old Town H2.

Wood Fire Ovens in Tallinn■ Attimo, Peterburi tee 49, Tallinn.■ Rucola Restoran & Pizzeria, Ehitajate tee 114a, Õismäe■ Controvento, Vene 12, Tallinn Old Town H3.■ Kärme Küülik, Estonia pst 5. Tallinn B2.

TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

A trattoria is the least formal type of Italian restaurant and La Bottega is just that –chequered tablecloths, linen napkins, and rustic cutlery. Tall wine racks line the walls in a plain glass case. The décor of the restaurant is somewhere between a local bis-tro and a three star Michelin res-taurant, a combination that is rarely seen.

The menu is traditional Ital-ian cuisine with a wide selec-tion of pastas, risottos, seafood, and meat dishes. The only thing missing is pizza. Italian wines from different regions, ranging in price from inexpensive table wines to top quality bottles, div-ide the wine list. The water is San Pellegrino, and of course you can finish your meal with some quality grappa too!

The value for money at La Bottega is great. The dishes are prepared from top quality raw ingredients, portions are large, and the flavours are just like in Italy. You certainly won’t get bored with this menu. On our

visit we decided to let the kitchen make suggestions. The antipasti platter came with Parma ham, salami, anchovies mixed with sundried tomatoes, bruschetta, aubergine, melon, and rocket, or

basically everything you might expect from a great antipasto platter. All the elements of this platter were of top quality, and while the portion was generous, it certainly whet the appetite for more.

The main course of seafood pasta was large, just like we had expected. The combina-tion of octopus and mussels added a pleasant flavour to the tomato-based dish. The left-over sauce was sopped up with some crusty bread. And with barely enough room for des-sert the tiramisu arrived at our table. The pallet was left with a pleasant reminder of the Medi-terranean. ■

A First Class TrattoriaYou can’t go wrong with Italian food.

Location

La Bottega, Vene 4. Tallinn Old Town H2.

The menu is traditional

Italian cuisine with a wide

selection of pastas, riso-

ttos, seafood, and meat

dishes.

Italian cuisine continues to grow

Italy on Ta

Other Pizzerias■ Vapiano, Foorum Keskus, narva

mnt 5 and Solaris Keskus, Estonia pst 9. Tallinn B2.

■ Rosso Tallinna, Tartu Mnt. 87. Tallinn C4.

■ Pizza Grande, Väike-Karja 6. Tallinn Old Town I2.

■ Basiliik, Hobujaama 5. Tallinn B2.■ Boheemi Pizza, Kopli 18. Tallinn A1.■ Old Style, Retke tee 1. ■ Pizza Americana, Müürivahe 2.

Tallinn Old Town J1.

A large portion of seafood pasta at La Bottega.

P izza and pasta come to mind when talking about traditio-nal Italian cuisine. They have come to be the most widely known foods, along with Parmesan cheese. Tallinn’s res-

taurant map is spotted with Italian restaurants. Here are a few of our favourites.

Buon appetito!

Buon appetito!

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T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 9urants

TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Tallinn has a few wood fired ovens. One of them is access-ible with trams 2 and 4, near the last stop. The alder wood that is used to heat the oven gives the pizzas their own unique flavour, which wafts into the surround-ing neighbourhood.

Capitano, the favourite pizza of Attimo’s clients, is topped with tomato sauce, cheese, ham, mush-rooms, aubergine, olives and gar-lic, for about 5,95. Other 30cm

pizzas start from 3,55, including the Margherita. At Attimo, top-pings are fitting and never exces-sive. The crust is crunchy and thin. You can also have wine or beer with your pizza.

At lunch, pizzas are 4,50 a piece, pasta 3,60, and other foods 4-4,50. It’s also possible to buy imported pastas, wines, olive oil and balsamic vinegar to take home. ■

TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Vapiano offers quality dishes using fresh ingredients at a great price and great speed. For the first time visitor, the card you are handed upon entering the restaurant may be a little sur-prising. The card is for your purchases while inside, and then the total is paid upon leaving.

Pizza, fresh pasta, and sal-ads make up most of Vapiano’s menu. You can watch your meal prepared right in front of you,

but for items like pizza you are given a buzzer that will sound when your pizza is ready.

The first floor of the Vapiano at the Solaris shopping centre has become a popular meeting place for many people. Vapiano’s second location is found at the Foorum Centre. ■

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Pizzapoisid is a small chain of takeaway pizza restaurants that have two locations in Tallinn and one in Tabasalu. The Baltic Guide went to taste pizzas at their Pärnu mnt location in Tondi, Tallinn.

It’s a fast food restaurant of sorts where clients take their pizza along with them, a trend that is becoming more and more popu-lar in Estonia. You can enjoy your pizza in the restaurant at a small table or weather permitting, on

the outside terrace as

well.

The pizzas on the menu come in three different sizes: 20, 28, and 40cm in diameter. They also offer a selection of calzones, pizza pockets, and pizza bikinis, a small stuffed baguette. The pockets and the bikinis are the restaurant’s own creation.

The prices of the pizzas are mid-range for Tallinn takeaway pizzas: a regular sized pizza costs between 5.50-6.90.

In August they started selling gluten-free pizzas as well. The base is made from rice flour. They told us that this is the only gluten-free pizza available in Estonia. Refer-red to as the tervisepizza or healt-hy pizza, the toppings are put on the base after it has been cooked, this way you don’t loose any of the vitamins in the cooking process.

All of the toppings are prepared fresh in house every morning. No pre-made, pre-cut items are used.

We decided to try two different pizzas instead of a traditional one: the vegetarian tervisepizza and the ham pizza pocket.

The vegetarian pizza truly deserved its title: raw red onion, zucchini and peppers gave the pizza freshness. The rice flour pizza base was crunchy.

The pizza pocket reminded us of a pizza kebab, because you ate it wrapped in paper. The pocket was stuffed with ham, cheese, salad, salted cucumbers, red onions, and a sauce. The portion was large and quite filling. The sauce added juiciness.

Pizzas can be ordered by phone or on the Internet. Take bus num-ber 23 or trams 3 or 4 to get to the Tondi location. ■

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

Located just outside of the Old Town walls in what is known as Hirvepark, Gusto restaurant sits in a beautifully restored house. In summer, diners can enjoy the beautiful green space outside, but now as the weather gets a little cooler, the light yet cosy interior with a warming wood stove will make you want to sett-le in with good food, good wine, and good company.

The menu at Gusto is inspi-red by the simplicity of quali-ty ingredients used in Italian cooking. Owner Anu Laan has spent some time in Italy. “I just

love the uncomplicatedness of Italian cooking,” she says remi-niscing about her time down south. The cotoletta alla Mila-nese, or the pork schnitzel was perfectly crunchy and served with a small salad. Unlike in Italian cuisine, main courses at Gusto come served with sides. They also serve an excellent selection of Italian cheeses that you can mix and match, and an antipasto platter for two for starters. Buon appetito! ■

Wood Fired Flavours

Vapiano – Take it easy!

Appetite for history

Location

Attimo, Peterburi tee 49, Tallinn.

Location

Vapiano, Foorum Keskus, Hobujaama 10. Tallinn B2.Vapiano, Solaris Keskus, Estonia pst. 9 Tallinn B2.

Location

Restoran Gusto, Toompuiestee 8, Tallinn B1.

Quality Takeaway Pizza New Italian creations at Pizzapoisid

Location

Pizzapoisid, Tondi 32, Tallinn.

w in popularity in Estonia’s capital.

llinn’s Map

Gusto has perhaps one of the most beautiful locations in Tallinn.

Page 10: Baltic Guide 11/2013

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 310 nightlife T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 310

When you've seen all the must-see sights, it's time to discover Tallinn's

colourful nightlife. Tallinn native Maarja-Liisa Mahla tells you about the

best gigs, pubs, clubs, and lounges in town!

Leave the cold weather blues at home; it’s time to party!

PÕHJA-TALLINNEstonian Music

Põhja-Tallinn has been in the Estonian music scene since 2007 when their first single “Probleem“ came out. Their song “Meil on aega veel“ got second place at the Estonian Song Contest in 2013. All their songs are in Estonian and their music falls somewhere between hip-hop and rock. Estonian rap sounds really interest-ing with a beautiful female vocalist Kerli Kivilaan too!

www.põhja-tallinn.ee

November is finally here with its cold autumn breeze and long dark nights. It’s the perfect time to discover Tallinn’s cosiest pubs and wildest clubs for an unforgettable night.

■ VABANKVabank is an exclusive nightclub located in a former bank house for people who love the glamoro-us lifestyle and high-class parties (pay attention to the dress code). There are many performers (air acrobats and dancers) you can’t keep your eyes off of and DJ’s who bring out your best dance moves. Vabank is a club for people who are looking for something a litt-le bit different, yet with a classy atmosphere.

Harju 13, Tallinn J1.

■ PROTESTProtest is another cosy bar in Tal-linn with the motto “live and let live“. It has a cool open-minded atmosphere with friendly and helpful staff. Protest is usual-ly packed with a younger crowd but that doesn’t mean you’re not welcome at any age. It’s a great bar to chill at before heading to town for clubbing or just relax with a refreshing drink and good company.

Mere puiestee 6a, Tallinn A2.

■ KOHTThis pub is definitely one of Tallinn’s hid-den nightlife treasu-res. It’s a really small and cozy place with a great beer selection. It might be a little bit hard to spot but look for the sign on the door: “Koht is open when Koht isn’t closed“. It even has a fireplace, often sur-rounded by talented musicians jamming. There’s no better place to be on a cold November night.

Lai 8, Tallinn G1.

■ HELL HUNTHell Hunt claims to be the first Estonian Pub. I don’t know if it’s true or not, but in one thing I’m sure of - it’s definitely a pub with a character.

Hell Hunt is really popu-lar among young locals, so you can expect it to be pretty crow-ded at weekends. It has a great selection of beer, including its own brews, cool interior and is one of the “must visit“ pubs in Tallinn.

Pikk 39, Tallinn G2. ■

Come to Vabank for glamorous parties.

Photo: Protest

KOHTis pub is definitely e of Tallinn’s hid-n nightlife treasu-. It’s a really small

d cozy place with a at beer selection.

might be a little bit d to spot but lookthe sign on the door: “Koht

open when Koht isn’t closed“.h fi l ft

■ HELL HHell Huntbe the firsPub. I donit’s true oin one thinof - it’s depub with a

Hell Hunt is relar among young locacan expect it to be pred d t k d It h

Hell Hunt has a great selection of local and international beers.

The motto at Protest is "live and let live".

Photo: Vabank

Photo: Hell Hunt

Page 11: Baltic Guide 11/2013

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 11

A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

SportsClayhillsPikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1.

Drink Baar Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Hell HuntPikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2.

Mad Murphy’sMündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Nimeta BaarSuur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Cigar LoungesChicago 1933Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.

La Casa del HabanoDunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town H1.

Sigari MajaRaekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Estonian Karja KelderVäike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Kochi Ait TavernLootsi 10, Tallinn A3.

Kolmas DraakonRaekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Valli BaarMüürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Live MusicCafé AmigoViru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Chicago 1933Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.

ClazzVana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.

NYC Piano BarVana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Rock CaféTartu mnt 80D, Tallinn.

Von KrahlRataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn Old Town H1.

GayClub 69Sakala 24, Tallinn B2.

G-punktPärnu mnt 23, Tallinn.

X-baarTatari 1, Tallinn.

KaraokeGelsomino KaraokeLai 2, Tallinn Old Town G1.

Koskenkorva Karaoke BarRoseni 13, Tallinn A2.

The Shamrock Pub Viru 24, Tallinn Old Town H3.

NightclubsArena 3Sadama 6, Tallinn A3.

The Bank Club 777Tartu mnt 17, Tallinn B3.

BibaboVabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn Old Town J1.

CatHouseViru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2.

Club HollywoodVana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Club MüntMürivahe 22, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Club PrivéHarju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1.

Club StudioSauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

PanoraamAhtri 10, Tallinn A2.

ParlamentAhtri 10, Tallinn A2.

TapperPärnu mnt 158G, Tallinn.

TeaterVabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1.

VabankHarju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1.

VenusVana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.

nightlife 11

Tallinn NightlifeTallinn Nightlife

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3

■ TAPPERIf you’re bored of mainstream club hits then Tapper is a great alterna-tive, specialising mostly in rock and metal music. The club can hold up to 600 people, it is a power-ful black-box type of venue and connects a cosy bar feeling with live music. It’s situated a little bit outside of the old town but true rock lovers and those looking for a different club experience won’t be disappointed.

Pärnu maantee 158, Tallinn.

■ AMIGOThere aren’t many nightclubs in Tallinn that aren’t open every day of the week and Amigo is certainly no exception. Amigo, as a name suggests, is a club where new pals will be treated like old friends. It’s more popu-lar among an older crowd and DJs will be playing the hottest hits from present and past. Great rock and blues bands also per-form from time to time, so forget your age and show them what you got!

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

■ WABADUSWabadus is a little bit of a fancier place located near to the best pubs and clubs in the old town. During the daytime it’s the perfect café for business lunches or just pas-sing the time. In the evening the whole atmosphere changes to a more relaxed one and DJs will be spinning to guarantee that you have a blast. It’s also known for its delicious meals.

Vabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn J1. ■

HOTTEST CLUBS IN TALLINN

Amigo is open every day of the week.

New pals will be treated like old friends at Amigo.

The atmosphere at Wabadus comes to life in the evenings.

Rock on at Tapper!

Photo: Amigo

Photo: Tapper

Photo: Amigo

Photo: Wabadus

Page 12: Baltic Guide 11/2013

12 shop

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

In this two level shopping centre you will find clothing, accessories, eyeglasses, children’s clothing and toys, and much more. There is no shortage of shoes either –find top name shops like Högl, Geox, Crocs, Ecco or browse through shops like ABC King for an even bigger selection of brand names.

In addition to the shoes, fashi-on, and accessories at Kristii-ne you will also find electronics stores, like the authorised Apple

reseller IM Arvutid, as well as the Apollo bookstore, which has a good selection of books in Esto-nian, Russian, and English. You won’t go hungry either with over a dozen restaurants, cafés, and snack bars to choose from. ■

Location

Kristiine Shopping Centre (Kristiine Keskus), Endla 45, Tallinn.A free bus runs (almost every half hour) between the A and D terminals at the port and Kristiine and Rocca al Mare Shopping Centres.

IM Arvutid is an authorised Apple reseller.

Kristiine has a great selection of home ware shops and cosmetics.

■ Kohvik Brezza A stylish sushi bar offering

Japanese delicacies!■ BabyBack Ribs & BBQ

Baby Back serves all your American favourites – ribs, burgers, and more!

■ Kristiine Bistro Serving breakfast as well as

salads, soups, main courses and mouthwatering desserts.

■ SushiRong

One of Estonia’s only sushi train restaurants.

■ DaVinci Pasta & Pizza An Italian family restaurant serving

pizza, pasta, and house made gelato.■ Chopsticks Asian dishes served fast and fresh for

dine-in or takeaway.■ Kohvik Gnomo

A bistro restaurant with a menu changing daily.

■ Prima Pizza & Pasta A casual Italian restaurant.

Restaurants:

Something for everyoneLocated just a quick bus ride from the city centre,

Kristiine is the one stop shop for families.

The colourful children's section at Apollo bookstore.

Kohvik Brezza

Page 13: Baltic Guide 11/2013

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 13pping

Shopping in Tallinn■ Department StoresStockmann, Liivalaia 53. B3.

The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store.

Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. B2.

This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

■ Central Shopping Centres

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2

Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a prome-nade of stylish boutiques.

Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2

The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M.

Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 5. A2

This modern shopping centre in the newly renovated Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.

Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2.

One of Tallinn’s newest shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket.

Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2

Twenty years ago the site of this shopping centre was nothing but a parking lot, right beside the Hotell Viru. In 2004, it turned into a modern shopping complex with over 100 stores.

■ A bit further outJärve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57.This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.

Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port.A modern mall just outside of the city centre.

Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3.A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port.This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall

in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world.

Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja).A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants.

Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65.Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn.

■ Near the port:Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. A3

This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoes can be found as well.

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. A3.

The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops.

Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. A3.

A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more.

SadaMarket, Kai 5. A2

This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

■ Food MarketsBaltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. A1.

Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. C3.

Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. A2.

Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a.

Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a.

Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. A2.

Sadama Turg – Sadama 25.

Books about Estonia make a great souvenir.

Shoes:

■ ABC King■ Bata■ Crocs■ Ecco■ Geox Clarks■ Salamander■ Högl■ Step Top■ Shu■ Walking ■ Rieker■ Chester

■ Sabo■ NS King■ TrendExpress■ Sketchers■ AvantiFor Children:

■ XS Mänguasjad■ Hello Kitty■ Mothercare■ Chicco■ Next■ Taibula■ Terranova

■ Mon Amie

■ 4Party

Women’s &

Men’s Fashion:

■ Naomi

■ Vero Moda

■ Marilyn

■ Etam

■ Seppälä

■ Mosaic

■ Marks & Spencer

■ Denim Dream

■ Orsay

■ Jack&Jones

■ New Yorker

■ Colin’s

■ DShop by Desigual

■ Gowri

■ Petroff■ Baltman

■ S’Nob

■ Mohito

■ Norrison■ Levi’s■ Tally Weijl■ Via Coocon■ Mötivi■ Gerry Weber■ Timberland■ Hansmark■ Ivo Nikkolo■ Monton■ Zara■ La Femme■ Vaide

■ Sangar

■ NJU: In Jeans

■ Cropptown

■ Mustang

■ Reserved

■ Next

■ Icon

■ Botega

■ Valerio Maestri

■ Camel Active

A glimpse at what’s inside:

With two floors of shops you will certainly find what you're looking for.

Page 14: Baltic Guide 11/2013

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Page 15: Baltic Guide 11/2013

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 15

This season lace and bead detailing are all the rage. Shops also offer metallic fabrics, which can be

paired with an array of the season's trends.

Men’s styles take a turn towards the classic, influenced mainly by 1950s fashion. Three-piece suits, ticket pock-ets and shoes are the beginning of this winter’s best.

We put together the best outfits from Tallinn shops. These dresses, suits, and accessories are guaranteed to make you shine this winter! ■

A stylish winter partyChristmas and New Year’s Eve parties are just around the corner and now

is the time to look for formal wear.

■ Grey suit – Mosaic, 129€ + 59,95€ ■ Shirt and tie – Mosaic, 25,95€ + 12,95€ ■ Watch with black strap ■ Black shoes – Marks and Spencer, 46,60€ This stylish grey winter suit is slightly shiny and sits well. You can play around with the colours of the shirt and tie, and don’t forget about the handkerchief! The watch with the leather strap is more traditional, as are the shoes.

■ Trousers and vest – Baltman, 89€ + 69€ ■ Shirt and tie – Baltman, 49,49€ ■ Brown shoes – Marks and Spencer, 69,90€ ■ Bowtie – Marks and Spencer, 5,90€ You don't have to wear a suit to be dressed formally ; you can replace the jacket with a vest. Try wearing a vest along with a bow tie.

Continental Moda imports mainly formal dresses and outfits from the US, from which you will definitely find one of a kind clothing for your Christmas parties. SaloCenter is better known

for its wedding clothes, but you can definitely find formal wear for men and women.SaloCenter, Narva mnt. 9 B3.Continental Moda, Tartu mnt 18 B3.

Unique party clothes

■ Red dress – Karen Miller, 185€ ■ Black shoes – Guess, 160€ ■ Gold bag – Karen Millen, 135€ ■ Earrings – Marks and Spencer, 18,95€ This feminine red dress follows the contours of the body. The patent leather shoes shine, if anyo-ne even notices them over the beautiful dress.

■ Black metallic dress – Karen Millen, 325€ ■ Black shoes – Karen Millen, 185€ ■ Bag – Marks and Spencer, 41,25€ ■ Bracelet – MosaicThe trendy metallic beads on the bottoms are the young party girl’s top pick. The embroidered handbag and high-heeled shoes are the crow-ning rock and roll style.

rs and vest – Baltman, 89€ + 69€

MEN

WOMEN

■ Grey suit – Mosaic, 129€ + 59,95€ ■ Shirt and tie – Mosaic, 25,95€ + 12,95€ ■ Watch with black strap ■ Black shoes – Marks and Spencer, 46,60€

■ Shirt an■ Brown ■ Bowtie

€ €

are dered ow- ■ Trouser

shopping

TEXT SUSANNE TUKIA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV, BALTIKA GROUP, KAREN

MILLEN, MARKS AND SPENCER

Page 16: Baltic Guide 11/2013

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 316

TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The menus are offered to a mini-mum of six people, but the restau-rant can hold up to 120-130 people. There are even smaller private rooms for a more intimate dinner. The three Christmas menus include appetisers, two-four main courses, dessert, coffee or tea, and water. The price per person is 30-39.

The food is served on platters, so every person can take as much or as little as they want.

The salted red salmon is the perfect colour for Christmas and is served with horseradish sauce. The Christmas ham is served with a spicy jam and the Waldorf salad comes with orange chick-en. Garlicky and honey marinated cucumbers can’t go without being mentioned either.

The selection of Christmas sausages are served with house made clove flavoured pumpkin salad and the salmon is stuffed with nuts and wrapped in puff pastry, served with a dill sauce. The smoky sauerkraut is an ori-ginal side dish.

The most expensive dinner includes two desserts, whereas

the others only included one. A spicy Christmas cake is served with a white chocolate sauce and the apple blueberry pudding is hidden under a lemon cloud.

The candle-lit cellar of Le Cha-teau brings warmth and comfort to those dark winter nights. Enjoy-ing a good meal with great com-pany will certainly make the long winter nights pass quickly. ■

The spirits of the Three Musketeers are alive in Le Chateau. Athos, Porthos, and

Aramis have had Christmas menus named after them.

A Christmas Party in Musketeer

Style

Location

Le Chateau, Lai 19, Tallinn Old Town F2.

Pork loin with lingonberries and cranberries Waldorf salad Smoked sauerkraut

Christmas sausages served with pumpkin salad Christmas cake Apple blueberry pudding

Paté with smoked cheese

restaurants

Page 17: Baltic Guide 11/2013

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 1720

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TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Last year The Baltic Guide tasted 13 mulled wines, of which five were Estonian products. This year we chose all six mulled wines or glögg from SuperAlko. We did not select any new brands. The more trad-itional glögg producers like Blossa and Lingel&Piispanen release a special edition mulled wine every year.

We bought three litre bottles, of which two were of 10 strength – Bocca Glögg (13.99) and Kar-dinal Hõõgvein (10.99).

Last year the most points and positive feedback went to Loimu 2012. Second place went to Blossa Original, which was this year’s top pick.

All of our tasters would buy all of the mulled wines we tast-ed, but the winner was definitely their first choice. Everyone liked it, but it was not the top pick for everyone.

Mulled wine is a great drink for winter. In Estonia, lemon peel is often added to the drink, and many stores sell the spice mix to make it yourself at home.

The winner, Blossa, was described as dark, with strong aromas of cloves, with a pleas-ing smell of spices. Blossa also produces a mulled wine with cognac, but this was too strong for our tasters, but the taste was still good. The blueberry-flavoured glögg was interesting and strong.

These two were the strong-est in alcohol content out of the mulled wines tasted. The blue-berry mulled wine was spicy. The Vana Tallinn mulled wine was strong in alcohol. ■

WINNERName & Volume Blossa Vinglögg Original,

0,75 lLoimu Glögg 2012

0,75 lBlossa Starkvinglögg with

Cognac, 0,50 lLumoava Blueberry Glögg

0,75 l Vana Tallinn Glögi

0,70 lBocca Glögg 0,50 l

Producer Altia Sweden Lignell&Piispanen Altia Sweden Lignell &Piispanen Liviko Drinks&Food Vertriebs, Saksa

Alc% 10 21 21 15 12 20

Price€ 5,75 9,99 6,80 7,50 3,99 5,60

Points 51 33 33 25 25 25

TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTO MIKKO VIRTA

Barbecue means long cooking time, with the infusion of grilled and smoky flavours to the meat. Slow cooking ensures juicy and soft meat. The taste is smoky and the addition of a little bar-becue sauce is a match made in heaven. At Talukõrts the barbe-cued pork is served with a side of grilled vegetables and a whis-

key sauce. And in the tradition of the restaurant, a free shot of vodka is served on the side. This large serving of pork (12) is the ideal meal for advent. It’s a lot of food but not too much and the restaurant is centrally located in the Old Town. ■

restaurants

Location

Talukõrts , Viru 18 , Tallinn Old Town H3 .

Located in the Old Town the Talukõrts tavern has added barbecued pork to the menu.

Juicy pork

with whiskey sauce

The favourites remain the same

Page 18: Baltic Guide 11/2013

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T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 19

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

Vana Viru Ilusalong in Tallinn’s Old Town is popular among locals and tourists alike. On any given day the cosy salon is bustling with ladies there for various beauty proced-ures. Clients are tended to immedi-ately by the chatty and friendly staff, and walk-ins are welcome.

Eve Mahlapuu, owner of Vana Viru Ilusalong has ten years experi-ence with applying permanent makeup. “It’s becoming more and more popular with both older and younger ladies,” she explains. For those that have never con-sidered permanent makeup, or don’t know what it is, here’s how it works. When you come in for an appointment, Eve will first talk to you about how the procedure will go. The area is then cleaned and a thin layer of anaesthetic cream is applied to help with the pain. The PMC permanent make up machine is like a tattoo gun, where a small needle injects colour into the skin. Permanent makeup does not go as far into the skin as a tattoo, but can still last from two to five years.

After the procedure a lymph fluid is applied to area along with the leftover colour. Don’t worry; you may bleed a little bit. This will eventually scab and heal natur-ally. You will have to use special creams for the aftercare as this will help keep the scab soft, the colour even, and infection away.

It’s important to let Eve know of any skin problems before the treatment. For example, if you

know that you have herpes then you must ask your doctor for medication like Zovirax and take it for a week beforehand. The application of permanent make-up on the lips could cause a flare up and take the colour away from the skin.

Permanent makeup can be applied to the eyebrows, eyes as permanent eyeliner, and to the contour of the lips. For older people with eyesight problems, permanent make up is ideal as you don’t need to fumble around trying to put eye and lip liner on. Permanent makeup on your eye-brows can help enhance light col-oured hair, or if your hair doesn’t grow back from over plucking, this procedure can help enhance what hair is there. It’s also great for people that wear contact lenses, or those that have allergies to eye makeup. It’s also great for those that are into sports, as it won’t wear off with sweat or run if it gets wet.

The cost of the procedure includes two visits. The first one for the first application, and the second is to make any corrections. The second visit, which usually happens about a month later, is highly recommended to ensure the colour stays put longer. With-out the correction, colour may start to fade after only one year. ■

Forever BEAUTIFUL

Permanent makeup for your eyes and lips at Vana Viru Ilusalong.

Permanent makeup does not go as far into the skin as a tattoo, but can still last from two to five years.

beauty

New Shopping Centre Opens in Tallinn The newly renovated post office building has now been turned into a shopping centre. The centre houses the supermarket Rimi, H&M, Rademar, NS King, New Yorker and more!

‘Free Range’ Nominated by Estonians for Best Foreign Language Film OscarEstonia has submitted Veiko Õunpuu’s “Free Range/Ballad on Approving of the World” as their submission for the 2014 Academy Awards in the category for Best Foreign Language Film. The film is about a young writer who is unsure of his role in society after being fired and finding out his girlfriend is pregnant. The 86th Academy Awards will take place on 2 March, 2014.

Popular Front Museum OpensA small museum for the Popular Front has been opened in Tallinn. The Popular Front had a role in the independence movement of the late 1980s. The exhibit can be found in the glass gallery under Freedom Square. On display are materials tied to the founding of the Popular Front and its activi-ties. The organisation closed in 1993 after having completed all of its objectives.

Georgian-Estonian Film ‘Tangerines’ in Cinemas nowThe film 'Tangerines' premiered in Tbilisi, Georgia back in October and hit cinemas in Estonia on October 31. The film tells the story of the Abkhazian war of 1992. Two wounded soldiers from opposing sides find refuge in an Estonian village in Abkhazia that has been abandoned except for two men who take care of the tangerine orchard.

In the news

Location

Vana Viru IlusalongVana-Viru 6, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Permanent makeup can be applied to the eyebrows, eyes as permanent eyeliner, and to the contour of the lips.

Eve has ten years experience with a applying permanent makeup.

Page 20: Baltic Guide 11/2013

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 320

TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS EESTI SPA LIIT

At the beginning of the 19th century spas opened in Pärnu, Haapsalu, Kuressaare, and Narva-Jõesuu as well. Today there are around 30 spas in Estonia, of which 19 are part of the Estonian Spa Association.

The word spa conveys many meanings these days, so it’s wise to familiarise yourself with what each one offers before planning your vacation. The Spa Associa-tion divides their members into three categories: 1) medical spas, 2) spa and wellness spas, and 3) medical and wellness spas togeth-er. Medical spas are licensed to provide outpatient medical care.

Travelling with your family? Many spas encourage you to bring your children. They often-have areas like playrooms or play-grounds and slides, and organise

activities for children. Some spas even have procedures and treat-ments especially for children.

There are sports and other active activities offered at all of the spas, and some offer even more. Be sure to look into this before you book. Depending on the clients, entertainment pro-grammes vary. Though if you are interested in an exercise only programme, then an even-ing exploring local pub culture is not recom mended. ■

■ Aqva Hotel & Spa, Parkali 4, Rakvere.

■ Arensburg Boutique Hotel & Spa, Lossi tn 15, Kuressaare.

■ Fra Mare Thalasso SPA, Ranna tee 2, Haapsalu.

■ Georg Ots SPA Hotel, Tori 2, Kuressaare.

■ Grand Rose Spa Hotel, Tallinna 15, Kuressaare.

■ Johan Spa Hotel, Kauba tn 13, Kuressaare.

■ Kalev Spa Hotel & Waterpark, Aia 18, Tallinn.

■ Kubija Hotel Nature Spa, Männiku 43a, Võru.

■ Health Centre & Hotel Wasa, Eha tn 2, Pärnu.

■ Estonia Rehabilitation Centre, A.H. Tammsaare pst. 4a, Pärnu.

■ Laine Spa Hotel, Sadama 9/11, Haapsalu.

■ Laulasmaa Spa, Puhkekodu tee 4, Laulasmaa, Harjumaa.

■ Meresuu Spa & Hotel, Aia 48 a, Narva-Jõesuu.

■ Meriton Conference & Spa Hotel, Paldiski maantee 4, Tallinn.

■ Peetrimõisa Villa Spa Hotel, Pirni tn 4, Viljandi.

■ Pirita TOP SPA Hotel, Regati puiestee 1, Tallinn.

■ Pühajärve Spa & Holiday Resort, Pühajärve.

■ Saka Cliff Hotel & SPA, Kohtla.■ SPA Hotel Meri, Pargi tn 16,

Kuressaar.■ SPA Hotel Rüütli, Pargi tn 12,

Kuressaar.■ SPA Hotel Saaremaa Valss,

Kastani tn 20, Kuressaare.■ Tallink Spa & Conference Hotel,

Sadama tn 11A, Tallinn.■ Tervise Medical Spa,

Seedri 6, Pärnu.■ Tervise Paradiis, Side 14, Pärnu.■ Toila Spa Hotel, Ranna 12, Toila.■ Vihula Manor Country Club &

Spa, Vihula.■ Viiking Spa Hotel,

Sadama 15, Pärnu.■ Viimsi SPA,

Randvere tee 11, Viimsi.■ Värska Spa Hotel, Väike-Rõsna

küla, Värska.

The right spa makes for the right holiday

Estonian spas have been around since Russian Tsarist time. In 1813 the Kadrioru Wittenhof summer manor house spa was opened in Tallinn.

Members of the Estonian Spa Association

Therapeutic mud has brought visitors to Estonia since the 1800s.Relax in the salt chamber. A doctor's consultation.

relaxation

Some useful wordstreatment hoolitsus

massage massaaž

heat therapy soojusravi

beauty services iluteenused

medical consultation

arsti vastuvõtt

tests uuringud

Page 21: Baltic Guide 11/2013

PEREOPTIKA Aia 2, Tallinn, WW Passaaz, tel +372 56820045

STOCKOPTIKA Tartu mnt 18, Tallinn (Opposite Stockmann) tel+372 56820044

+/-Optika Tartu mnt 11D, Tallinn (In the Sampo courtyard) tel+372 56820043

SEE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EXCELLENT AND ORDINARY LENSES.

DRESS CLOTHES FOR ALL AGES AND SIZES ACROSS FROM STOCKMANN IN TALLINN

-20% -50% -70%

WELCOME TO THE ESTONIAN OPEN

AIR MUSEUM!

An Estonian village in the capital of Estonia

Open daily at 10-17 Buses: 21 and 21B from the Balti jaam train station. City Tour Blue Line from Viru Square.Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn.Ph. +372 654 9100, www.evm.ee.

saleslady's weekend radio hours in Lau Village Shop

logging bee on Sepa farm every weekend

St. Catherine's Day on November 24

horse and carriage rides, a village shopfrom the 1930s, Estonian national food at the inn

www.madmurphys.ee

MAD MURPHY ’SOpened Monday-Th ursday 10:00 - 02:00, Friday -Saturday 10:00 - 04:00, Sunday 11:00- 02:00

irish pub & grill

Mündi 2, TallinnaPhone: +372 6 011 [email protected]

Largest whisky selection in Estonia

Live music & karaoke

Located in the old town, overlooking the Raekoja plats (Town Hall Square)

Page 22: Baltic Guide 11/2013

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 322

Winter fun in TartuWinter fun in TartuEnjoy shopping, live music, and plenty of other activities

indoors and out in this beautiful Estonian city.

■ LõunakeskusRingtee 75, Tartu.

This is southern Estonia’s largest shopping centre. Visitors can enjoy an indoor skat-ing rink open all year round, a children’s playroom, and the AHHAA 4D cinema. The 15-seater AHHAA 4D cinema brings modern special effects and 3D animation together. Seven different films will be shown, each one lasting about five min-utes. You must be at least 110cm tall.

A free bus takes you to Lõunakeskus from the city centre (Kaubamaja or the central bus station). The first bus leaves at 10.57 from the bus station and 11.00 from Kaubamaja.www.lounakeskus.com

■ Tasku KeskusTuru 2, Tartu.

Tasku Keskus is located in Tartu’s city centre. The shopping centre houses a modern cinema, and a viewing platform was opened this summer and will stay open in the winter as well.www.tasku.ee

■ Tartu KaubamajaRiia 1, Tartu

Also located in Tartu’s city centre, many of the shops in this shopping centre are part of the tax-free shopping scheme. Most large shopping centres will stay open on public holidays.www.tartukaubamaja.ee

For something a little different:In addition to the large shopping centres in Tartu, shoppers can find many cute handicraft shops.

■ Antoniuse CourtyardLutsu 5, Tartu

Antonius Courtyard is located in the heart of the Old Town, in St. John’s cul-tural quarter. Here visitors will find the works of handicraft masters, where old traditions meet new style.

■ Disainimaja (Design House)Kalevi 13, 15, 17, Tartu

Located within the Tartu Centre for Creative Industries, the Disainimaja sells locally designed accessories, jewellery, ceramics, home textiles, art, handicrafts and clothing. Visit the café next door, Kohvik Spargel, where the dining room houses temporary exhibits.www.lmk.ee

■ Live Music

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP

PHOTOS:TARTU COUNTY TOURISM FND PHOTO STOCK

Tartu’s history as a town dates back to the 13th century, but became known in 1632 with the establishment of the university. Since then, Tartu has become

a student’s city, where 20,000 of the 100,000 inhabitants are students. Some of Tartu’s most well known landmarks include the Emajõgi River that flows through the centre of town, Toome Hill, the university’s main building with its distin-

guished columns, and of cour-se the “kissing students” in the Town Hall Square fountain.

Plan your trip by contac-ting the Tartu Visitor Cent-re in the Town Hall ([email protected], +372 744 2111) www.visittartu.com

Book your spot at the Tartu Marathon early!

■ MuseumsNew this year at the University of Tartu History Museum is the treasury. It’s located on the third floor of the museum where many original artefacts are on display. For example visitors can famil-iarise themselves with Albrecht Durer’s incredible graphic works, Juri Lotman’s talisman or Aleksander Puskin’s death mask. Each artefact has its own story.

Visit one of Tartu’s museums, or all of them with the university museums joint ticket. This ticket allows entrance to the History Museum, Art Museum, Botanical Gardens, and the Tartu Observatory.www.ut.ee

■ A night at the theatreWith the dark, cold nights approach-ing, what better way to spend a chilly evening than in the warmth of the theatre. This November and December the Tartu Vanemuise Theatre has a great programme with everything from opera, concerts, com-edies, and children’s plays. For the full programme visit: www.vanemuine.ee

■ Tartu Adventure ParkIf you’re looking for something active to do with the whole family, then why not visit an adventure park? In addi-tion to the adventure park located in Otepää, Tartu’s adventure park is the newest and is located right in Tartu. Thrill seekers can take part in 50 dif-

ferent activities including a 300-metre zip line, at different heights and differ-ent degrees of difficulty. There is even a separate area for children with 15 different activities and two zip lines. During the winter months visitors can enjoy snow tubing, and hockey and ice skating rinks.Narva mnt 126B, Tartuwww.tartuseikluspark.ee

■ Aura Centre (Waterpark) What better way to spend a cold winter’s day than inside at the swim-ming pool! At the Aura Centre visitors can enjoy a swimming pool, water-park with waterslides and waterfalls, and a fitness centre. Aura Centre just added a health club that includes a sanarium, Jacuzzis, different saunas, as well as their first communal sauna. Children will be entertained as well; the sauna is well lit and plays music.

Special offer: Visit Aura Centre and AHHAA Science Centre on the same day and get 20% off on the second ticket. Discount is valid for all AHHAA tickets (except planetarium and group tickets) and Aura Centre tickets when presented on the day.www.aurakeskus.ee

yhird floor of ere manyare onple

-

e uri Lotman’s talisman

adDeicNw

Winter fun – indoors & out!

■ 2.12.2013–06.01.2014 Tartu

Christmas City, joululinn.tartu.ee 1.12 16.00 Lighting of the first

advent candle in Town Hall Square 14.12 11.00 Christmas Fair in the

city centre 14.12 13.00 5th Tartu Winter

Dance Party in Town Hall Square 21.12 19.00 Fire and light game

in Town Hall Square 24.12 12.00 Declaration of

Christmas peace in Town Hall Square■ 6.-7.12 Christmas Fair 2013,

www.tartunaitused.ee ■ 17.-24.12 Jõulumaa at Tartu

Kaubamaja: Christmas Fair, www.tartukaubamaja.ee

■ 21.12 18.00 Vanemuise

Symphony Orchestra Advent Concert (Tartu Jaani Church)

■ 23.12 19.00 Estonian National Male Choir “Light and Gold” (Tartu Jaani Church)

■ 26.12 19.00 Holiday Music: Eri Klas and Friends

■ 26.12 19.00 Händel’s ”Messiah”, Voces Musicales, Corelli Consort (Tartu Jaani Church)

■ 29.12 19.00 Swing`n`Joy Orchestra End of Year Concert

■ 30.12 19.00 VANEMUISE New Year’s Eve Ballwww.vanemuine.ee

■ 31.12 12.00 Eesti Kontsert and Hennessy New Year’s Eve Concert

Concerts: www.concerts.ee/tartu

(Tartu Cultural Calendar: kultuuriaken.tartu.ee )■ 16.02 43rd Tartu Marathon,

www.tartumaraton.ee ■ 24.-27.04 Nordic Student Choir

Festival, nsss2014.ut.ee

■ 28.04.-4.05 Tartu Spring Days, www.studentdays.ee  

■ 7.-10.05 Literature Festival “Prima Vista”, kirjandusfestival.tartu.ee

■ 11.05 SEB 32nd Tartu Running Marathon, www.tartumaraton.ee

■ 16.-18.05 Archaic Arts Festival “RegiÖÖ”, www.tartu.ee/regioo

■ 19.-24.05 Tartu Indiefest, www.indiefest.eu

■ 1.06 SEB 33rd Tartu Bicycle Rally, www.tartumaraton.ee

■ 4.-8.06 Wind Band Festival

“Mürtsub pill”, www.potartu.ee■ 7.06 Tartu Song Festival

■ 23.06 Victory Midsummer’s Eve

celebration, www.erm.ee ■ 29.06 Tartu City Day

■ 10.-15.07 Festival “Glas perlenspiel”,

www.erpmusic.com ■ 11.-13.07 Tartu Hanseatic Days,

www.hansapaevad.ee ■ 4.-10.08 Love Film Festival

tARTuFF, tartuff.ee ■ 15.-16.08 Emajõe Festival

■ 24.08 SEB 8th Tartu In-line

Skating Marathon, www.tartumaraton.ee

Christmas in Tartu 2013 2014 Events (January – August)

■ Shopping in Tartu

Rest your feet after a day of shopping at one of Tartu’s live music venues. In addition to the Tartu Jazz Club that

opened at the end of last year, visitors can now enjoy music at Volga7 and at the Feel Good Café.

Tartu

■ Where to shop

■ Tartu Jazz ClubÜlikooli 20, Tartuhttp://tartujazzclub.ee

■ Feel Good CaféRüütli 12, Tartuwww.feelgood.ee

■ Volga7Küütri 1, Tartuhttp://volga7.ee

price is valid until 13.12.2013.■ 2 nights in hotel Tartu or Dorpat ■ breakfasts in the hotel■ bus transfers to the marathon start and back

to Tartu■ registration fee including snacks and drinks

during the race■ your registration documents and badges will

be delivered to the hotel■ entrance to night club Atlanits (excl. Sunday)

Marathon package for individual participants 15.-17.02.2014 : long distance

Christmas time is a great time for shop-ping, not just for gifts and souvenirs, but for yourself too. The large shop-ping centres in Tartu like Lõunakeskus, Kaubamaja, and Tasku offer many holiday discounts and other sales dur-ing this time. And don’t worry about keeping the children entertained, at Lõunakeskus you will find an indoor skating rink, children’s playroom, and the Ahhaa 4-D cinema.

Tartu is also filled with many great handicraft shops, where you can buy gifts directly from their artists. If you are interested in local design, be sure to check out the Tartu Centre for Creative Industries Design House.

Estonian Design Days From 14-16 November the Tartu Kaubamaja will be organising the Estonian Design Days together with

the Tartu Disainimaja. Jewellery and other accessor-ies, along with fashion design, lighting, ceram-ics, and other pieces of art will be on sale. The market is open Thursday and Friday 11-19, and Saturday 11-17.www.tartu-kaubamaja.ee

126 EUR/person in dbl room156 EUR/person in single roomThe registration fee of the Marathon is not refundable. Extra night: twin: 67 EUR, sgl: 55 EUR

Ask for extra nights in Riga or TallinnBookings: [email protected]; www.e-turist.ee

Page 23: Baltic Guide 11/2013

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 23november events

See a different side of the Old Town with Tallinn Traveller Tours.

Tallinn by nightTEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

On a cold October night I met Heli (a guide with TTT) for the Tallinn Ghost Tour. If you’ve seen the major sights of the Old Town during the day, here is your chance to explore the narrow streets at night.

The Ghost Tour lasts one and a half to two hours (depending on the temperature outside). Your guide will tell you curious tales and legends about some of the houses and statues you might not notice on during the day. For example, do you know that Tallinn had its very own

mummy; or have you seen the statue peering from the roof of the Russian Embassy over Pikk Street?

Heli has been giving tours of Tallinn since 2009. The Ghost Tour is interesting because it gives a glimpse of places in the Old Town that you wouldn’t

normally look at. “I don’t like to list off too many dates. You won’t remember the dates, but you will remember interesting stories,” Heli told me while on our tour.

To book your tour with TTT visit: www.traveller.ee.Tallinn Traveller Tours also does day

trips outside of the city. If you have a bit of time to spare and have already seen the sights of Tallinn, why not take a day trip to picturesque Lahemaa National Park, or head to Paldiski to find Soviet relics and admire stunning coastal landscapes? You won’t be disappointed! ■

Photo: ????

St. Martin’s Day Fair (Mardilaat)7-10 NovemberSaku Suurhall, Tallinn

Get your Christmas shopping done early at the St. Martin’s Fair. Visitors can enjoy workshops, purchase handicrafts, indulge in traditional culinary delights, and listen to folk music.

Christmas Bazaar24 November, 11.00-16.00Radisson Blu Hotel, Rävala pst 3, TallinnFor the 8th year in a row, the International Women’s Club of Tallinn will organise the Christmas Bazaar. 26 Embassies will be tak-ing part this year, and the IWCT will be selling their own hand-made cards, handicrafts, and baked goods. The ever-popular Tombola (raffle) and the Silent Auction will both be taking place as well.

Town Hall Square Christmas Market22 November – 8 January

Get into the holiday spirit at the annual Christmas market. Browse the beautiful handicrafts and pot-tery of Estonian craftsmen and artists; enjoy traditional Estonian Christmas food, like blood saus-age and sauerkraut. Sip mulled wine and admire the enormous tree in the centre of the square. Children will get a chance to meet Father Christmas, and visit the animals at the small petting zoo.

■ Upcoming Christmas Markets

15 November – 1 DecemberTallinn, Various Locations

The Tallinn Black Nights Film Fes-tival returns for the 17th year in a row. It’s the biggest film festival in North Eastern Europe. The main programme features the Interna-tional competition programme EurAsia and Tridens Baltic feature film competition. Side program-

mes include fiction and documen-tary features from the previous two years, a retrospective of a filmma-ker, genre or studio, and focus on a specific country. The festival con-tinues to grow in popularity. Last year PÖFF attracted nearly 70,000 cinema visits and held over 700 screenings.Tickets available from Piletilevi. ■

PÖFF

José Cura14 November

Nokia Concert Hall, Tallinn

Not a fan of opera? Don’t worry. This unique musical event is a great opportunity to hear top performers sing “love messages” written by some of the greatest composers of all time. Listen to both classical and modern musi-cal styles while José Cura performs together with a magnificent young soprano, Anita Rachvelishvili. The opera show ”The Bell Canto Diamonds” Puccini –Beatles – Verdi- Mozart and Others ”Love Songs” will be accompanied by the Philharmonic Orchestra and con-ducted by Mario De RoseTickets start at 39 and are avai-lable from Piletilevi. ■

Heli, our guide. Explore Tallinn in a different light at night.

Photo: E.M. Concert Group

Photo: PÖFF

Photo: IWCT

Page 24: Baltic Guide 11/2013

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 324

Lennart MeriTallinn AirportTartu AirportFlying is the fastest and most comfortable mode of travel. The airport is the best place to advertise.Promote your business with banners, back-lit windows, show-cases, posters, billboards, internet kiosks, car advertising and other personalised solutions, everywhere in the airport.

Queries: +372 605 8234

[email protected]

Free Market Economy

1993–2013

years:two photos

T he history of cooperative sto-

res in Estonia dates back to

1902 when the first co-op

was established. During the Soviet

period they were referred to by their

abbreviation ETKVL. In 1991 they

were renamed the Estonian Central

Consumer Cooperative (Eesti Tar-

bijateühistute Keskühistus) or ETK

for short.

The ETKVL was a “state within a

state” and its headquarters were loca-

ted at Narva mnt 7. Today, the ETK

deals primarily with business outside of

Tallinn. Today the building has a glass

façade and three towers, and is now the

Triumph Plaza commercial and office

building. ■

TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS HUIK/FILMIARHIIV 1993

AND ANDREI CHERTKOV

historyIn the 1990s the building housed the Kultuur ja Elu newspaper and

restaurant. Today the Foorum Shopping Centre, opened in 2007,

occupies the space.

Page 25: Baltic Guide 11/2013

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 25

TALLINN

■ Museums

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G. www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe PalaceMaarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 10–17

Estonian Maritime Museum

(Eesti Meremuuseum) Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum)Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2www.tmm.ee. We-Sa 10-18

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion PassagesKomandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-181.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda)L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17 Winter by appointment only.

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum.

Rotermanni soolaladu)Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.eeWe 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU)Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum)Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuse-um)Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square)www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum)Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/basic-informati-on/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

■ Art Museums & Galleries

Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum)Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 11–18

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.eeJan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.eeJan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5www.kumu.eeOct–Apr:  We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum)Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30

TARTU

■ Museums

Estonian Literary Museum (Eesti Kirjandusmuuseum)Vanemuise 42, Tartuwww.kirmus.ee. Mo-Th 9 - 17, Fr 9 - 16.30

Estonian National Museum (Eesti Rahva Muuseum)Kuperjanovi 9, Tartu. www.erm.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Estonian Sports Museum (Eesti Spordimuuseum)Rüütli 15, Tartu. www.spordimuuseum.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

KGB Cells Museum (KGB Kongide Muuseum)Riia 15b, Tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. Tu-Sa 11- 16

Museum of the 19th Century Citizen of Tartu (19. Saj. Tartu Linnakodaniku Muuseum)Jaani 16, Tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. We-Su 10-15

Postal Museum (Postimuuseum)Rüütli 15, Tartuwww.erm.ee/en/visit/postal-museum. We-Su 11- 18

Tartu City Museum (Tartu Linnamuuseum)Narva 23, Tartu. Tu-Sa 11- 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Old Observatory (Tähetorn)Lossi 40, TartuTu-Su 10 - 18. http://www.ajaloomuuseum.ut.ee/tahetorn

Tartu Song Festival Museum (Tartu Laulupeomuuseum)Jaama 14, TartuTu-Sa 12 - 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu Mänguasjamuuseum)Lutsu 8, Tartu www.mm.ee. We – Su 11 – 18

City Hall Museum (Raemuuseum)Raekoda, Tartu (Town Hall Square)http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee/?m=415.09-14.05 Mo 9-18, Tu-Fr 9-17, Sa-Su 10-1415.05 -14-09 Mo-Fr 9-18, Sa-Su 10-17

■ Art Museums & Galleries

Tartu Art Museum (Tartu Kunstimuuseum)Raekoja plats 18, Tartu, http://www.tartmus.eeWe-Sa 12:00 - 18:00, Su 11:00 - 18:00

Tartu Art House (Tartu Kunstimaja)Vanemuise 26, Tartu, www.kunstimaja.eeWe-Mo 12-18

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

museum

TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN

PHOTOS MAIKEN STAAK, TANEL VEENRE, JANNE LUIGLA

The exhibition KAAMOS opened at the Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design on 28.09 and will be open until 24.11. As a whole, KAAMOS is a more extensive project, including a 232 page book on the current situation of Estonian fashion that will come out 1.10 (Eesti mood täna-Fashion Now: Estonia).

A list of described designers and business in the book can be found on the Internet at www.kaamos.ee. The Museum is open from Wednesday to Sunday, 11:00-18:00. ■

Location

KAAMOS, 28 9-24. 11. Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design, Lai 17, Tallinn. Old Town F1.

KAAMOS – Estonian fashion

Tallinn City Museumwww.linnamuuseum.eeincludes the following branch museums:

Remodelled MUSEUM KIEK IN DE KÖK and BASTION PASSAGES at 2, Komandandi RoadNew! THE MAIDEN TOWER MUSEUM-CAFÉ at Lühike jalg 9a

Exhibition open Mon-Sun 11.30-19.00Café open Mon-Sun 11.30-22.00PHOTO MUSEUM at 4/6 Raekoja Street,CHILDREN’S MUSEUM at 16, Kotzebue StreetHOUSE OF PETER I at 2, Mäekalda StreetMUSEUM MIIA-MILLA-MANDA at 21c, Koidula StreetColourful theme museum for childrenWriters’ museums with authentic interiors:A. H. TAMMSAARE MUSEUM at 12a, Koidula StreetE. VILDE MUSEUM at 3, Roheline Aas

CITY MUSEUM at 17, Vene StreetThe Tallinn City Museum is housed in a medieval merchant’s dwelling in the centre of the Old Town. It got the European Museum Forum’s nomination in 2003.The museum and its café are open: Wed-Mon 10.30 am-6 pm

1 6

2

3

4

5

7

8

9

1

6

2

3

4

7

89

5

MUSEUM OF OCCUPATIONS Toompea 8, 10142 Tallinn

[email protected]

Tel +372 66 80 250Open Tue-Sun 11.00 - 18.00

Insight into the life

in Estonia during

three occupations

(1940-1991)

Temporary exhibitions Boris Vildé and the French Resistance(Musée National d’Histoire Naturelle) Letters to Sala (the French Children of the Holocaust Foundation)

Triin Kärblane

Aldo JärvsooBritt Samoson

Almost all known Estonian clothing designers and companies are taking part in a great fashion project.

Page 26: Baltic Guide 11/2013

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 326 transport

P U H E L I N N U M E R O T : P O L I I S I 1 1 0 , P E L A S T U S TO I M I 1 1 2 , AU TO A B I 1 8 8 8 ( 2 4 H ) .

Parking

Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE 110, EMERGENCY 112, AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h)

Parking in Tallinn can be difficult, especially

during working hours. Public parking on city

streets will cost between 1.40-4.60 per hour,

depending on the area. Blue parking signs will

tell you the rate and the paid periods. Some

areas, including the Old Town require you

to be for parking at night. Parking passes

can by purchased from machines or kiosks.

Remember to leave your parking clock (or a

written note) indicating the time when you

first parked.

You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of

Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and

explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your

most convenient option is to use one of the many rental

companies at the Tallinn Airport:

Budget – www.budget.ee

Europcar – www.europcar.ee

Hertz – www.hertz.ee

National – www.europcar.ee

Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some

which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your

hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on

driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee.

1 3

2 4

43

1 2

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee

Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee

Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee

Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

Car Hire

■ Taxis

Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid

being ripped off remember to check the rates dis-

played on the window before getting in. For a full

listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee

The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the fol-

lowing taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso,

and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the

city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly

more in heavy traffic.

No international driver’s licence is required

to drive in Estonia, but the following rules

apply to all drivers:

■ Blood alcohol level must be zero.

■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please

mind intersections and cyclists.

■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in

towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h

depending on the area. Speed limits will be

posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed

limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual car-

riageways.

■ All cars must carry a warning triangle,

wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extin-

guisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests

when stopped at night.

■ In case of collision, please call the police.

Insurance documents and driver information

should be exchanged.

■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid

penalty.

Driving in Estonia

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

■ BY BUS:Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam)

Lastekodu 46, Tallinn

www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee

Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee

Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee

Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu

Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

From the bus station to the city: tram no. 2,

bus no. 17, no. 23

■ BY SEA:TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee

Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com

Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee

Linda Line Express - www.lindaline.ee

TO/FROM STOCKHOLMTallink - www.tallinksilja.com

TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURGSt. Peter Line - www.stpeterline.com

From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

■ BY TRAIN:Train Station (Baltijaam)

Toompuistee 37, Tallinn

www.edel.ee

www.gorail.ee

From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2,

or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

■ BY AIR:Lennart Meri Tallinn

Airport (Lennujaam)

Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn

www.tallinn-airport.

ee/eng

From the

airport to

the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K

FAST CLASS By Copterline – www.copterline.ee

Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki City Centres.

:eri Tallinn

nnujaam)

01, Tallinn

n-airport.

L. Koidula

J. Poska

Tallinna Ülikool

HobujaamaMere pst

LinnahallPõhja pst

Balti jaam

Telliskivi

Volta

Angerja

Sitsi

Maleva

Sirbi

Sepa

KOPLI

Viru

Vabaduse väljak

Kosmos

Vineeri

Paberi

Keskturg

Majaka

Sikupilli

Majaka põik Väike-

Paala

Pae

Autobussi-jaam

Estonia

Htl. Tallinn

A. Adam-soni

RistikuSõle

Lille

Ülase

MooniKoskla

Pirni

HumalaMustjõeLooga

Zoo

Haabersti

Sinilille

SinililleKarikakra

Nurmenuku

Kullerkupu

Koskla

Tihase

Tedre

Linnu tee

Siili

Lepistiku

VambolaLiivaku

Ehitajate tee

Mustamäe

Akadeemia tee

KajaSzolnok

A. H. Tammsaare tee

Sääse

Aiandi

Löwenruh

Marja

Välja

Koidu

Madala

Ehte

Lõime

Marati

Maleva

Nisu

Kolde puiestee

Ädala

Tõnis-mägi

Balti jaam

Htl. Tallinn

Männi

ÜLEMISTE

TONDI

MUSTAMÄEKESKUSE

KADRIORG

VEERENNI

OLD TOWN

UUS-MAAILM

KRISTIINE

MUSTAMÄE

HAABERSTI

Port

Bus Station

KALAMAJAPÕHJA-TALLINN

JÄRVE

Takso-park

KAUBA-MAJA

Kelmiküla

Lubja

Ülemiste

Kopli

Tondi

Tehnika

Takso-park

Tõnismägi

Koidu

KADRIORG

Keskuse

KeemiaRaja

Hipodroom

Hipo-droom

VÄIKE-ÕISMÄE

Mustamäe

Väike-Õismäe

67Väike-

Õismäe PR

1 3 5

9

745

9 4

Tallinn-Väike

13

6

2, 4

1, 3

1, 2

3, 4

KOPLI

PELGU-LINN

KALAMAJA

OLD TOWN

MERIMETSA

ROCCA AL MARE

VEERENNI

PORT

SIKUPILLI

LASNAMÄE

PIRITA

KADRIORG

TALLINN CITY TOUR

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus.

Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages.

Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h

on three different lines.

Red Line - City Centre

Green Line - Pirita

Blue Line - Rocca al Mare

Tour routes last approximately

one hour. All services begin at

Viru Square. Tickets start at 13€.

www.citytour.ee

Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three

use the same ticketing system. Tourists can purchase a ticket from the driver for

1.60€. Please have exact change ready. In 2013 a smartcard ticketing system was

introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is

your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and

are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free.

Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader.

Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of

time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Trolley-buses13

7

456

Kaubamaja – MustamäeKaubamaja – MustamäeBalti jaam – KeskuseBalti jaam – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Väike-ÕismäeBalti jaam – Väike- Õismäe

1234

Kadriorg – KopliÜlemiste– KopliKadriorg – TondiÜlemiste – Tondi

Trams

Airport

ÕISMÄE

Page 27: Baltic Guide 11/2013

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 27around Estonia

Take a look at some of the unique destinations outside of Estonia’s capital.

Don’t forget, there’s a lot to see outside of Tallinn too!

Traditional Seto folk costumes

Photo: Toomas Tuul

Visit the Old Believers' museum in Kolkja. Hermann Castle in NarvaKihnu Island

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV, EAS

CastlesThe main attraction of Saaremaa’s capital Kuressaare (218km South-west of Tallinn) is the Episcopal Castle. This medieval castle with a moat houses the stage of the sum-mer opera festival and many more events throughout the warmer months. The castle is in excellent condition, and the inside houses a museum that is well worth a visit. The city of Kuressaare celebrates its 450th anniversary this year.

Haapsalu (100km southwest of Tallinn) is like something straight out of a fairy-tale: old wooden houses built on narrow streets, overlooking a sparkling sea. Be sure to visit the majestic Haap-salu Episcopal Castle in the cen-tre of town. The White Lady Days are held in honour of Estonia’s most famous legend. Under the full moon in August in Haap-salu, through the window of the Episcopal Chapel the white lady makes her appearance. According to legend, the maiden appears to show the immortality of love.

Rakvere Castle is one of Rakvere’s (100km east of Tallinn) main attractions. Located on the hill just outside of the city centre,

the ruins of this medieval castle will entertain both adults and children. There are informative displays on the castle’s history, as well as an exhibit on the history of weapons. Try your hand at shoot-ing a bow and arrow, or take a tour of the torture chamber.

Narva (211km east of Tallinn) is the easternmost point of Estonia and EU. The Narva River divides Russia and Estonia, and from the Hermann Fortress you can look across the river to Russia and the castle on the other side. Narva was once the “Baroque Pearl of the Baltic Sea,” but during World War II, the city was almost com-pletely destroyed. Visit Narva for an interesting glimpse at Russian

Estonia, Soviet architecture, and one of the best preserved castles in Estonia.

Seto CultureSouth-eastern Estonia is home to the Seto people. Their land today is split between the borders of the neighbouring countries. The Seto people have an Orthodox Christian tradition. Their cus-toms and beliefs are different from the mainstream and one of their recognisable landmarks are the multiple small prayer houses or tsässonad.

Värska (270km southeast of Tallinn) is the centre of Seto cul-ture. Here you can find a museum and the Tsäimaja offering trad-

itional food. Seto Kingdom Day takes place on the first Saturday of August in Värska. On that day a king is chosen, as well as best musicians and best food and bev-erage purveyors.

Old Believers & Peipsi LakeIn the 17th century, the Old Believers came to Estonia to avoid Russian persecution. Their religion is an old form of Rus-sian Orthodoxy and today there about 15,000 Old Believers liv-ing in towns around Lake Peipsi. Visit the Old Believer’s museum in Kolkja Village (213km south-east of Tallinn) to learn more of their fascinating history and trad-itions, and be sure to have a meal at the fish and onion restaurant to have a taste of the onions that this area is known for.

IslandsThe fast-paced modern world has yet to reach the islands of Estonia. On the smaller islands, including Hiiumaa (155km west of Tallinn), there is the feeling of having gone back 100 years in time. Estonia’s

largest island, Saaremaa, is quiet and peaceful compared to Tallinn.

Unique nature and preserved folk culture is the specialty of the islands, but don’t worry, modern amenities can be found as well.

Kihnu Island’s culture is a UNESCO world heritage site. Elderly ladies driving motorcycles with sidecars, while wearing trad-itional folk clothing is a regular sight on Kihnu (180km southwest of Tallinn).

Hiiumaa’s main attraction is the Kõpu lighthouse, built at the beginning of the 16th century. This is one of the world’s oldest working lighthouses. Kihnu, as well as some of the other islands have lighthouses that can be vis-ited by tourists.

Koguva, on the island of Muhu is the best place to see these trad-itional farmhouses. This village has many thatched roof build-ings, including a museum. The many windmills in Angla village on Saaremaa, is the best place to see these traditional structures, as there are not many left in other places. ■

Lake Peipsi

HIIUMAA

SAAREMAA

Kärdla

Haapsalu

MUHU

Kuressaare

Pärnu Viljandi Tartu

RakvereNarva

Paide

Kolkja

VõruValga

Mustvee

KIHNU

Tallinn

Värska

Setomaa

Kõpu

Koguva

Angla

Photo: Graham MitchellPhoto: EAS

Page 28: Baltic Guide 11/2013

■ Useful Phrases

please ...........................................palunthank you ...................................aitäh, tänanexcuse me ..................................vabandagehello..............................................tere, tervistgood morning .......................... tere hommikustgood day.....................................tere päevastgood evening............................tere õhtustgood night .................................head öödgoodbye .....................................nägemist, head aegaall the best..................................kõike head, kõike paremathave a good trip .......................head reisibon appetite ............................. jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ............terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab?Do you have…? .................................. kas teil on? on teil?where is… ............................................ kus on…What is this?......................................... mis see on?What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab?How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate?How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb?not bad .................................................. pole viga!nice to see you/to meet you .......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtudait was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvudaWhat time is it? ................................... palju kell on?I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keeltDo you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt?/Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

1 January –New Year’s Day

24 February –Independence Day

Easter Good Friday1 May – Spring Holiday;

Pentecost;

23 June – Victory Day;

24 June – Midsummer’s Day;

20 August – Re-independence Day;

24 December – Christmas Eve;

25 December – Christmas Day;

26 December –

Boxing Day

The work day preceding

New Year’s Day,

Independence Day, Victory

Day, and Christmas Day is

reduced by three hours.

2013/2014 School HolidaysChristmas break 21 December, 2013 -

5 January, 2014

Spring break 15-23 March, 2014Summer break 6 June - 31 August, 2014

Holidays

Phone calls

■ There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made

simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers

start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the

country code, and then the phone number to make a call

overseas.

Free Wifi

■ Yes, that’s right, the rumours are true! Almost

everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free

WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for

the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www.

wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

Accepted in nearly 100

locations, the Tallinn Card gives

you free entrance and discounts.

Tallinn Card is available at: Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks,

Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from

A and D terminals at the Port of

Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn

hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.

AUSTRIA

Vambola 6, 10114 Tallinn

+372 627 8740

BELGIUM

Rataskaevu 2-9, 10123

Tallinn, +372 627 4100

BULGARIA

A. Lauteri 5E, 10114 Tallinn

+372 648 0388

CANADA

Toom-Kooli 13, 10130

Tallinn, +372 627 3311

CZECH REPUBLIC

Lahe 4, 10150 Tallinn

+372 627 4400

DENMARK

Wismari 5, 10136 Tallinn

+372 630 6400

FINLAND

Kohtu 4, 10130

Tallinn, +372 610 3200

FRANCE

Toom-Kuninga 20, 10122

Tallinn, +372 616 1600

GEORGIA

Viru väljak 2, 10111 Tallinn

+372 698 8590

GERMANY

Toom-Kuninga 11, 15048

Tallinn, +372 627 5303

GREECE

Pärnu mnt 12, 10148

Tallinn, +372 640 3560

HUNGARY

Narva mnt 122, 13628

Tallinn, +372 605 1880

ICELAND

Tõnismägi 3A, 10119

Tallinn, +372 640 8711

IRELAND

Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn

+372 681 1888

ITALY

Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn

+372 627 6160

LATVIA

Tõnismägi 10, 10119

Tallinn, +372 627 7850

LITHUANIA

Uus 15, 10111 Tallinn

+372 631 4030

NETHERLAND

Rahukohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn

Tel. +372 680 5500

NORWAY

Harju 6, 10130 Tallinn

+372 627 1000

POLAND

Suur-Karja 1, 10146 Tallinn

+372 627 8206

PORTUGAL

Kohtu 10, 10130 Tallinn

+372 611 7468

RUSSIA

Pikk 19, 10123 Tallinn

+372 646 4175

SWEDEN

Pikk 28, 10133 Tallinn

+372 640 5600

TURKEY

Narva mnt. 30, 10152

Tallinn, +372 627 2880

UKRAINE

Lahe 6, 10150 Tallinn

+372 601 5815

UNITED KINGDOM

Wismari 6, 10136 Tallinn

+372 667 4700

UNITED STATES

OF AMERICA

Kentmanni 20, 10116 Tallinn

+372 668 8100

EMBASSIES

28 useful information

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, TallinnTel. +372 644 2282

Mustamäe Medical CentreEhitajate tee 27, TallinnTel.+372 659 8318

Keskhaigla Medical CentreRavi 18, TallinnTel. 1900, +372 622 7070

■ Central Post OfficesKristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn

Airport Post OfficeTartu mnt 101, Tallinn

Toompea Post OfficeLossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town

Old Town Postal StoreViru 20, Tallinn Old Town

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3

Tartu

TALLINN

www.visitestonia.com

■ Currency ExchangeDebit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE

Area: 45,227 km2.

Population: approximately 1,350,000

Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000.

Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433

Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5%

Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country.

Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are non-religious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

Currency: Euro €

Independence: 24 February 1918

Re-independence: 20 August 1991

Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C

Time Zone: GMT +2

Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County.

Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu.

Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

TOURIST INFORMATION

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn

Tartu: Raekoda plats 1A, Tartu

Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu

Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva

Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere

Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide

Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina

Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva

Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare

Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla

Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu

Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi

Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää

Valga: Kesk 11, Valga

Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi

Võru: Jüri 12, Võru

Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

Event and Concert Tickets

■ Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be

purchased on-line at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro.

Or, visit their most central locations at:

Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2

Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2

Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2

Photo: Margus Johanson

Page 29: Baltic Guide 11/2013

-

Sadama

-

Map of Old Town

SEAPLANE HARBOUR

AIRPORT (2km)

KUMU

Tartu mnt

Bus Station

Linda Line terminal

Travel PortTerminal A, B, C

Train Station

Terminal D

Kadriorg park

Page 30: Baltic Guide 11/2013

22˚00'

58˚0

0' 58˚0

0'

57˚3

0'

27˚00'26˚00'25˚00'24˚00'

59˚0

0'58

˚30'

59˚3

0'59

˚00'

58˚3

0'

23˚00'22˚00'

22˚00'

59˚3

0'

22˚00'

59˚3

0'

RAPLAMAA JÄRVAMAA

PÄRNUMAASAAREMAA

HIIUMAA

VILJANDIMAA

JÕGEVAMAA

TARTUMAA

PÕLVAMAA

VÕRUMAA

VALGAMAA

LÄÄNE-VIRUMAA

IDA-VIRUMAA

HARJUMAA

LÄÄN

EMAA

MAAKONNAD

3020 50 km4010010

©REGIO 2008Riia 24, Tartu 51010tel +372 738 7300

©Regio 2008 KL-8-026

Riigipiir, kontrolljoon

Territoriaalmere piir

Tartu rahu piir

Maakonna piir Põhimaantee

Tugimaantee

Kõvakattega maantee

Kruuskattega maantee

Linn

Vallasisene linn

Alev

Alev-valdMaakonna keskusVILJANDI

PealinnTALLINN

Haldusjaotus on seisuga 01.04. 2007

KARKSI-NUIA

LIHULA

ABJA-PALUOJA

ANTSLA

PÜSSI

MUSTVEE

VÕHMA

SUURE-JAANI

MÕISAKÜLA

KALLASTE

Ust-Luga

OTEPÄÄ

KEILA

KIVIÕLI

TAPA

PÕLVA

PALDISKI

TÜRI JÕGEVA

ELVA

RAPLA

PÕLTSAMAA

SAUE

KUNDA

KÄRDLA

SINDI

NARVA-JÕESUU

LOKSA

KEHRA

TÕRVA

RÄPINA

KILINGI-NÕMME

TAMSALU

VILJANDI

SILLAMÄE

RAKVERE

VÕRU

MAARDU

KURESSAARE

VALGA

JÕHVI

HAAPSALU PAIDE

TARTU

NARVA

PÄRNU

KOHTLA-JÄRVETALLINN

Jüri

KuusaluHaljala

Kadrina

IisakuVäike-Maarja

Laiuse

Nõo

Võnnu

Värska

Misso

Tabivere

Lelle

Risti

Käina

OrissaareLeisi

Salme

AsteKärla

ParalepaTaebla

Palivere

Turba

Riisipere

Klooga

Keila-Joa

HarkuTabasalu

Saku

Kiisa

Kiili

LagediLoo

ViimsiHaabneeme

Kostivere

Raasiku

Aruküla

Prillimäe

Alu

Kuusiku

KeavaKehtna

Valtu

Käru

SärevereOisu

Väätsa

Juuru

Kaiu

Eidapere

Audru Sauga

Are

Paikuse

Võiste

Häädemeeste

TihemetsaHalliste

Õisu

KõpuRamsi

Viiratsi

Helme

Hummuli

TsirguliinaSõmerpalu

Õru Sangaste

Puka

Rannu

Rõngu

KurekülaTõravere

PuhjaUlila

Ilmatsalu

Tõrvandi

Kolga-JaaniOlustvere

Adavere

KamariPuurmani

Siimusti

Kuremaa

Aravete

KäraveteAmbla

Lehtse

Sääse

Kiltsi

Hulja

Lepna

Sõmeru

VinniPajusti

Roela

Laekvere

Tudu

Avinurme

Mäetaguse

Aseri

Sonda

ToilaVoka

Lohusuu

Torma

Sadala

AlatskiviKolkja

Varnja

Kõrveküla

Luunja

Roiu

AhjaVastse-Kuuste

Kambja

Mooste

Veriora

Kose

Varstu

Valjala

Virtsu

Hageri

Peetri

Võõpsu

Lähte

Palamuse

Kihelkonna

Vastseliina

Laura

Irboska

Seredka

Jamm

Spitsõno

Samolva

Pnevo

Pededze

Tori

Sinimäe

Assaku

Kose Ravila

Kose-Uuemõisa

Kanepi

Rakke

VäimelaParksepa

Tõstamaa

Kõrgessaare

Laagri

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Mehikoorma

Simuna

Viru-Jaagupi

Rõuge

Roosna-Alliku

Tudulinna

Vaida

Mustla

Võsu

Hagudi

Koeru

Vana-Antsla

KOHILA

JÄRVAKANDI

TOOTSI

LAVASSAARE

VÄNDRA

AEGVIIDU

PÄRNU-JAAGUPI

KOHTLA-NÕMME

MÄRJAMAA

JÄRVA-JAANI

Libatse

Koluvere

Linnamäe

Nõva Harju-Risti ÄäsmäeVasalemma

Valgu

Kiiu

Uhtna

Jäneda

Kuimetsa

KoigiVaimastvereTüri-Alliku

ImavereKabala

Vana-Võidu

Päri

Suislepa

Kaagjärve

Dikli

Matixi

Gaujena

Lasva

MammasteKrootuse

Melliste

Osula

Uulu

Vastemõisa

Sürgavere

Äksi Vara Koosa

Laeva

Tilsi

Himmaste

Kabli

Padise Alavere

Tsooru

Jõõpre

Selja

Haiba

Oru

Lehola

ValklaKolga

Tarbja

Papsaare

Linna

Esku

Võisiku

Põlgaste

Pisisaare

ArduVajangu

Vao

Lehtmetsa

Albu

PeriSihva

Saarde

Kolka

Orgita

Kudjape

Karksi

Keeni

Saverna

Lustivere

Vana-Vigala

Väike-Kamari

Kurkula ps

Vaindloo

Pärispea ps

Põõsaspea n

Kõpu ps

Kassari s

Tagamõisa ps

Nootamaa

Sõrv

e ps

Piirissaar

Käsmu psJuminda ps

Viimsi ps

Pakri ps

Hanko ps

Noarootsi ps

Tahkuna ps

Väike - Tütarsaar Suur - Tütarsaar

Prangli

NaissaarAegna

Pakri s-dOsmussaar

VORMSI

Abruka

M U H U

Manilaid

Kihnu

Ruhnu

Vilsandi

PETSERI

GDOV

SLANTSÕ

IVANGORODJAANILINN

AINA I

SALACGRÎVA

STAICELE

LIMBALEMSALU

VOLMARI

RUHJAVÄIKE-SALATSI

ALOJA

MAZSALACA

VALMIERA

SMILTENE

VALKA

APE

ALÛKSNE

HOPA

OUDOVA

RÛJIENA

STRENÈI

HEINASTE

SALATSI

HANKO

Hari kurk

Mardihansulaht

Voosi kurkSuur väi n

Väike väin

M a t s a l u l a h t

S o e l a v ä i n

P ä r n ul a h t

Kura kurk

L I I V I L A H T

S O O M E L A H T

Pe

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si

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DISTANCESMajor Estonian Towns

HAAPSALU175 IKLA347 288 KOIDULA

84 148 335 KUIVASTU 158 221 408 73 KURESSAARE

56 228 403 121 106 KÄRDLA312 349 267 357 431 368 NARVA108 67 253 81 155 161 291 PÄRNU199 235 222 245 318 256 167 178 RAKVERE

9 180 356 90 163 47 321 114 208 ROHUKÜLA99 193 285 144 218 155 211 128 99 108 TALLINN

249 209 100 255 328 305 178 174 123 258 186 TARTU204 131 173 177 250 257 235 96 149 210 159 78 VILJANDI300 227 62 274 347 353 248 192 194 306 253 71 124 VÕRU

EESTI HALDUSJAOTUS

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Page 31: Baltic Guide 11/2013
Page 32: Baltic Guide 11/2013