Milow live in Tallinn

Special summer travel guide

TOP 10 historical attractions

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Estonia's best spas, waterparks, and saunas

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ENGLISH EDITION

The best things to see and

do in Estonia

Health & Beauty

PEREOPTIKA Aia 2, Tallinn, WW Passaaz, tel +372 56820045

STOCKOPTIKA Tartu mnt 18, Tallinn (Opposite Stockmann) tel+372 56820044

+/-Optika Tartu mnt 11D, Tallinn (In the Sampo courtyard) tel+372 56820043

SEE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EXCELLENT AND ORDINARY LENSES.

TARTU MNT 18,TALLINN • www.contmoda.ee Tel. +372 6 620 232 • Open Mon-Fri 10-19, Sat 10-17

DRESS CLOTHES FOR ALL AGES AND SIZES ACROSS FROM STOCKMANN IN TALLINN

-20% -50% -70%

BRASSERIE & RESTAURANT TELETORNRESTAURANT WITH A VIEW

WWW.TELETORN.EEWWW.FACEBOOK.COM/RESTORAN/TELETORN

Reservations: +372 58150020E-mail: restoran@teletorn.ee, www.teletorn.ee

Open Wednesday-Monday 11-23, Tuesday 18-23

PARKING:The TV Tower

parking lot has 5 places for tourist

buses and 60 places for cars.

The TV Tower is located 10 min. from

the city centre and 4 min. from the Pirita

Marina.Kloostrimetsa tee

58A, Tallinn

HOW TO GET HERE:You can take buses

34A, 38, and 49 (stop "Teletorn"), or the City Tour bus. Our premises

are handicap accessible.

t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 3 3editorial

Summer is almost here!

The Estonian winter hiber-nation period

is officially over! Patios and terra-ces are opening

up again, hopeful warm weather lovers are sitting in warm coats on patios in the sun in the Town Hall Square, and seasonal sights are open for business once again.

This year, the lighthouse on the island of Kihnu opens its doors to visitors for the first time in 17 years. The lighthouse will be open in July and August for visitors who wish to admire the sun-set over the Baltic Sea. It is one of the four last remaining cast iron lighthouses that remain on Estonian beaches. Built in 1865, it stands 31 met-res above sea-level. Kihnu is the largest island in

the Gulf of Riga, and the seventh largest island in Estonia.

Plan your trip to Kihnu and other fascinating parts of Estonia with The Baltic Guide’s special summer issue. This year it comes in the form of a pull-out guide in the centrefold of this paper. The special summer travel issue gives an overview of different parts of Estonia and the islands. This is all you need to plan your Estonian vacation out-side of Tallinn! For those staying for a shorter time, the May issue of the Baltic Guide is packed with all the latest info about restaurants, shopping, museums, and more!

Happy travels!

Kristina LuppEditor-in chief

3 editorial 4-5 transport 6 may events 8 beauty 10-11 restaurants 13-21 special summer travel guide 22 museum 27-30 maps and information

night life

summertravel guide

13-21

Odd hugomilowmad murphy's

16-17

contents

Your Commentsn We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Western estonia & the islands

Northern estoniaSouthern estonia

tartu

aBOuT ESTONIaArea: 45,227 km².Population: about 1,350,000.Capital: Tallinn, population about 400,000.Independence: 24 February, 1918, Re-independence: 20 August, 1991. Weather: Average temperature July 16°C, February -9°C. Time zone: GMT +2 Language: Official language Estonian. Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants.Religion: Approximately 20 % of Estonians are non-religious, 30 % Lutheran, 28 % Orthodox and 3 % Catholic.Currency: Euro. Visa, MasterCard, Eurocard, Diner’s Club and American Express are widely accepted.Electricity: 220 V / 50 Hz, European (Type C) plug.

M A Y 2 0 1 3

PORTS b-terminal, d-terminal HOTELS barons hotel, bern hotel, braavo hotel, city Portus hotel, my city hotel, domina ilmarine hotel, ecoland hotel, economi hotel, euroopa hotel, go hotel Schnelli, imperial hotel, Kalev Spa hotel, Kreutzwald hotel tallinn, l'ermitage hotel, meriton grand conference & Spa hotel, metropol hotel, Nordic Forum hotel, Old house hostel, Old town maestro hotel, Oru hotel, Palace hotel, Park inn central tallinn, Radisson blu hotel tallinn, Radisson blu hotel Olümpia, Reval Park hotel tallinn, Savoy hotel, Scandic St. barbara hotel, Sokos hotel Viru, St. Olav hotel, Susi hotel, Swissotel, tähetorni hotel, tallink express hotel, tatari 53 hotel, telegraaf hotel, Ülemiste hotel, Vana Wiru hotel, Viimsi Spa hotel, Von Stackelberg hotel tallinn OTHER tV tower, hansabuss business line, Swedish embassy, Sadama market, Stockmann info, tallinn airport, tallinn tourist information, citytour buses, hansabuss airport, merekeskuslootsi keskus, Puumedi group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita yacht club, arizona, beerhouse, clazz, molly malones, O

Pick up your free copy at: 'malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, troika Restaurant, turg Restaurant, Waynes coffee PÄRNU astra hotel, legend hotel, Pärnu Visitor's centre, Strand hotel, Sanatorium tervis, tervise Paradiis, tRK Viiking, Koidulapark hotel, Pärnu airport TARTU dorpat hotel, london hotel, Pallas hotel, tartu Visitor's centre, tartu airport, turu linna city information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu yacht club, arensburg boutique hotel, Fra mare thalasso Spa, haapsalu tourist information, hiiumaa tourist information, Johan Spa hotel, Kuressaare airport, Kuressaare tourist information, Promenaadi hotel haapsalu, meri Spa hotel, Rüütli Spa hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi tourist information, meresuu Spa, Narva tourist information, Rakvere tourist information, Saka cliff hotel & Spa, toila Sanatorium, Vihula manor, Villa theresa, Sagadi manor SWEDEN eaS Stockholm, estonian house göteborg, estonian air Stockholm,tallink mariehamn, tallink Stockholm RIGA cinnamon Sally backpackers hostel, Friendly Fun Franks backpackers hostel, the blue cow backpackers hostel, the Naughty Squirrel backpackers hostel

Managing Director: Kirli lembinenEditor-in-Chief: Kristina lupp

kristina@balticguide.eeDesign: Kristi möls

Photography: andrei chertkov

Photo: andrei chertkovModel: inna Zuk

Stylist: Zenja FokinWe thank: tallink aqua Spa

contact informationPõhja pst 25, 10415 tallinn,

tel +372 611 77 60e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee

Marketing Manager: elisa Ritsingtel +372 58 50 2473

01 muSic ON eStONiaN ShOReSThe concert series Kaunid Konserdid Käsmus brings some of Estonia’s top musicians to the small town of Käsmu. The concert series takes place 2-13 June and will include Raimond Valgre’s 100th anniversary jubilee concert with Ivo Linna and Hanna-Liina Võsa, as well as Svjata Vatra.

02 ballet iN eaSteRN eStONiaThe hightlight of this year’s Jõhvi Ballet Festival (10-12 May) will be the Moscow Classical Ballet Theatre. Natalia Kastkinan and Vladimir Vassiljevi will perform the ballet “Creation of the World” on May 11. Top dancers from Estonian ballet schools will dance on May 12 for the Children’s Ballet Gala.

03 Night at the muSeumOn Museum Night, May 18 (Muuseumiöö), most of Estonia’s museums will be open from 18.00-23.00 and entrance to many museums will be free.

04 OPeN-aiR ciNemaThe roof-top cinema (Katusekino) atop Viru shopping Centre re-opens in May. Watch new and classic films, as well as documentaries under the open sky, and enjoy a beautiful view over Tallinn. Enjoy a warm snack from the café too!

05 diNgODingo will rock the nightclub Panoraam, May 18 in Tallinn. This legendary Finnish band is popular in Estonia too; so don’t be surprised if the audience sings along!

Follo

w u

s on

may TOP 5

KOPLI

PELGU-LINN

KALAMAJA

OLD TOWN

MERIMETSA

ROCCA AL MARE

VEERENNI

PORT

SIKUPILLI

LASNAMÄE

PIRITA

KADRIORG

OLD TOWN

PORTA, B terminals

D terminal

AIRPORT

VIRU

BUS STATION

PELGULINN

KOPLI

KADRIORG

PELGU-RANNA

MERIMETSA

VEERENNI

TONDI

ÜLEMISTE

KALAMAJA

SIKUPILLI

Non-residents and tourists can purchase a ticket for 1.60€ from the driver. Exact change is always appreciated. And don’t forget to validate your ticket. You can also purchase a smartcard. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-kiosks, and are transferable. Or, save yourself time and money by purchasing a Tallinn Card. The Tallinn Card allows you to use public transport for free, but remember to validate by touching your card to the orange reader.

Further information on routes and timetables:http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#plan/

TICKETS AND ROUTES

TALLINN CITY TOURTake a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 di�erent languages.Hop On Hop O� - bus tickets valid for 24h on three di�erent lines.

Red Line - City CentreGreen Line - PiritaBlue Line - Rocca al MareTour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets start at 13€.www.citytour.ee

tram routes

1

2

3 4

4

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RAILWAYSTATION

transport4 t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 3

n Customs RegulationsVisitors from eu countries may carry unlimited amounts of tobacco products into estonia.all tObaccO PROductS muSt diSPlay health WaRN-iNgS. iN theiR abSeNce, the FOllOWiNg RuleS aPPlieS:

200 cigaRetteS OR 200g OF lOOSe tObaccO

cars or motorcycles entering estonia may carry up to 10l of petrol in regulation containers.

drugs may not be brought into estonia without permission. live animals and plants, as well as rare ani-mal and plant species and also require special permis-sion. Firearms and other weapons are prohibited.

Pirated materials are prohibited.estonian tax and customs, information for the traveller: http://www.emta.ee/index.php?id=1089

n airport and Port Transfersgetting to the port:the distance between the Viru Shopping centre and the port is about 1 km. bus no. 2 will get you there, and pass by the airport as well. the mõigu bus line also passes through the port. For more information and timetables visit: http://soiduplaan. tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ab. the name of the Viru Shopping centre bus stop is a. laikmaa. tickets are available on the bus for 1.60€.

getting to the airportthe distance between the Viru Shopping centre and the tallinn airport is 4 km. the no. 2 bus goes to the airport and the schedule can be found at http://soidu-plaan.tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ab. the name of the Viru Shopping centre bus stop is a. laikmaa and the airport stop is called lennujaam. tickets are available on the bus for 1.60€

n BY BUS:Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam)lastekodu 46, tallinnwww.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.eeFrom the bus station to the city: tram no.2, bus no. 17, no. 23Ecolines – www.ecolines.eeHansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.eeLux Express – www.luxexpress.euTemptrans – www.temptrans.ee

n BY SEA:From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.eeTallink - www.tallinksilja.comViking Line - www.vikingline.eeLinda Line Express - www.lindaline.ee

TO/FROM STOCKHOLMTallink - www.tallinksilja.com

TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURGSt. Peter Line - www.stpeterline.com

n BY TRAIN:Train Station (Balti jaam)toompuistee 37, tallinnFrom the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minute walk to the Old Townwww.edel.eewww.gorail.ee

n BY AIR:Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) tartu mnt 101, tallinnFrom the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K. www.tallinn-airport.ee/engFAST CLASS By Copterline – www.copterline.ee Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki City Centres, from the Port.

n Transport

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Free Bus from the Portthe Viking line offers a free shuttle service to and from the city. the name of the bus stop is mere pui-estee, opposite the Viru Shopping centre. the bus departs at 14.15, 14.30 and 14.45.the Rocca al mare Prisma supermar-ket has a free bus that also passes through the port terminals everyday between 10–17. Please consult the website for departure times: www.prismamarket.ee/prismabuss.php?lang=fin

Restaurant/PubFörsta stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjövägen och sista när man beger sig till havs!

The first place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!

Massor av härliga smakupplevelser!

Taste one of our delicious dishes!Öppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19.

Köket öppet från kl/The kitchen open from 8.

Levande musik varje dag/Live music every day 12-15

Sadamarket Shopping Centrum1a vån/1st floor, 100m från A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals.

Sadama 6/8, Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee,www.seitsemerd.ee

BEST VENUES IN TALLINN! WELCOME! FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 47

HEALTHYFRESHFAST

OPEN SUN-THU 11-23, FRI-SAT 11-24

Foorum Center, Hobujaama 10, TallinnNear the harbour. Ph. +372 6 829 010

Solaris Center, Estonia pst. 9, TallinnNear the National Opera Theatre. Ph. +372 6 285 999

& PIZZAfrom

4,90 €

PASTA

VISIT VAPIANO IN HELSINKI, MIKONKATU 15!

TALLINN HELSINKI STOCKHOLM LONDON WIEN AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG NEW YORK

29

transport 5t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 3

n Tallinn Taxis

Sirbi

2 1

4 3

4 2

3 1

Sepa

Maleva

Angerja

Telliskivi

Põhja pst.

Linnahall

Mere pst.

F.R.Kreutzwaldi

Hobu- jaama

Viru Vabaduse

väljak “Kosmos”

Vineeri Tallinn-

Väike

“Kalev”

TONDI

KOPLI

Paberi

Keskturg

Lubja

Majaka

Sikupilli Pae

Väike Paala

ÜLEMISTE

Majaka põik Autobussijaam

L.Koidula

J.Poska

KADRIORG

Sitsi

“Volta”

Baltijaam VIRU

SQUAREOLDTOWN

PORT/HABOURTrain Station

RANNAMÄE TEE

AHTRI

ESTONIA PST.

PÄRNU MNT.

LIIVALAIA JUHKENTALI

TARTU MNT.

GONSIORI

NARVA MNT.

Viru hotellStockmann

(PÄRNU MNT.)

(NARVA MNT.)

(TARTU MNT.)

(KOPLI K.)

n Day and evening (23.00–6.00) taxi fares can vary. Each taxi company has their own rates. Every taxi must display driver infor-mation and photo.

n For example, a one-way ride starting at Viru Hotel and lasting approximately 1.5 km should cost about 6€. With traffic congestion, the amount may be higher. For a listing of taxi fares, please visit: www.taksod.net

n It pays to be careful when choos-ing a taxi, because some companies have much higher rates than others. Taxi prices are displayed on the right rear window and on the vehicle’s dashboard. The minimum fee must be displayed on the price list, as well as the rate per kilometer and standing rate. The cost of the trip is always the displayed taxi-meter rate, as an ‘agreed rate’ will not always be honoured.

Taxi drivers must print a receipt. If for some reason the taxi driver does not offer a receipt then the passenger is not obliged to pay. If

you feel that the price was unreasonable, then make note of the car registration number, date of

journey, and the name of the taxi company.

n If you feel that you have been cheated, you may send complaints to: tta@tallinnlv.ee and/or The Baltic Guide: editorial@balticguide.ee. Or call the Tallinn Service Line 1345.

n From the airport to the city cen-tre, a taxi will cost between 7-10€

with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink

Takso. These three taxi companies have a contract with the Tallinn Airport, and will be

waiting outside the main entrance in the taxi queue.

USEFUL VOCABULARYthe car has broken down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Auto läks katkithe car has run out of petrol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bensiin sai otsa here is an accident. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Siin on avarii there is a block in the road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Teel on ummikWhere is the car repair?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Kus on autoremonditöökoda/kummiparandus?

P U H E L I N N U M E R O T : P O L I I S I 1 1 0 , P E L A S T U S TO I M I 1 1 2 , AU TO A B I 1 8 8 8 ( 2 4 H ) .

No international driver’s license required.It is important for drivers to follow the

following regulations:n Blood alcohol level must be 0.n Estonia has no freeways. Please mind inter-sections and cyclists.n The speed limit in towns is usually 50 km / h, but can vary between 30- 70 km / h. Speeds will be marked. Outside built-up areas, the speed limit is 90 km / h, in some sections 110 km / h, but only in summer.

n All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, first-aid kit, and fire extin-guisher. Drivers must wear a fluorescent vest when stopped at night.n In case of collision, and in the event of inju-ry, it is advisable to call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged.n Parking and speeding fines will still be charged if visiting from overseas. Please pay fines on time to avoid penalty.

Useful Information

Parking in tallinn

Important Phone Numbers: POLICE 110, EMERGENCY 112, AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h)

The first 15 minutes of parking are free when using a parking clock. This does not apply in parking lots.

Parking tickets can be purchased from a kiosk or in select stores. Parking tickets must state the year, month, day, hour, and minute of purchase.

Shopping centres are equipped with an automatic teller that accepts coins. In Tallinn, most parking lots are paid.

Parking fines vary. Failure to pay for park-ing may result in a fine of 20€. If the parked car is obstructing traffic, the fine will be 64€, with

the possibility of it being towed. In this case, please contact the city police 14410. Unpaid fines do not go away, even if you are from overseas. Unpaid fines may triple in value.

Please read the signs carefully.

the first 15 minutes are free at:n Tallinn Parking 15 min / 0,26€

Payment required m–F 7–19, Sa 8–15. Free on Sundays.

n City Centre 15 min / 0,58€ Payment required m–F 7–19, Sa 8–15. Free on Sundays.

n Old Town 15 min / 1,15€ Payment required 24h, 7 days.

you don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of tal-linn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. if you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at the tallinn airport:

budget – www.budget.eeeuropcar – www.europcar.eehertz – www.hertz.eeNational – www.europcar.eeSixt Rent a car – www.sixt.com

there are many other companies to use in tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driv-ing in estonia, turn to page 6-7 in this guide or visit www.mnt.ee.

easy car Rent – www.easycarrent.eehansarent – www.hansarent.eeSir autorent – www.sirrent.eeyes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

hire a car

Pork Schnitzels,Chicken Schnitzels…

Always up to 500g

All dishes prepared by our German chef.

Children’s Menu Available

New German Schnitzel Restaurant in Tallinn’s Old Town.

Free shot of liqueur

when you order a schnitzel.

Schnitzel Haus • Open Sun-Thu 12-24, Fri-Sat 12-02Rüütli 28/30, Old Town • Tel +372 6 450 059 • www.schnitzelhaus.ee

New location:Rüütli 28/30, Old Town

THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD

INDIAN RESTAURANT

Open Everyday 11-23Mündi 4 / Pikk 14 (Old Town)

Irish coffee 4€ • Vodka 2€

Vana-Tallinn 2.50€ • Beer 2.50€

House Wine 2.90€ • Appetisers 2€

Grilled Salmon 9.90€ • Grilled Duck Fillet 12.90€

Pepper Steak 13.90€ • South Indian chicken curry 8€

Just 25 metres from Town Hall Square

Town Hall

Square

Mündi

KingaVoorimehe

Dunkri

Kul

lass

epaRaekoja

Vanaturu

Pikk

kael Viru

Vene

Apteegi

Saiakang

Come and enjoy exotic Kerala, Thai and European dishes!

The restaurant's owner is from Kerala in Southern India.Excellent prices

At Liisu’s

ESTONIAN CUISINE IN TALLINN'S OLD TOWN SQUARE

Restaurant Liisu JuuresOpen everyday 10-23,

Raekoja plats 13, Old Town, Tallinn

tel +372 6 441 983

Order 2 roasted meat dishes and ask 2 Irish co�ees

for free.(9.60€ value)

May O�er

Welcome!

t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 36 may eventsn XdreamThe Xdream adventure sports series comprises 4 events and involves a combination of cycling, canoeing, run-ning/trekking and navigation with other additional chal-lenges often added to this mix. The events take place in different parts of country, thus offering participants the chance to explore more of Estonia at the same time. The second event will take place in Iisaku in Eastern Estonia, the third (an overnight event) in and around Kärdla on the island of Hiiumaa.

Iisaku 9 June Kärdla 20/21 June www.xdream.ee/ace-xdream-uudised

n Tallinn Old Town DaysThe topic of this year’s festival is “Every tower has its story." This is a great opportunity for visitors to find out about the secrets of Tallinn's medieval towers and learn more about their history, archi-tecture, and interior.

1-8 June www.vanalinnapaevad.ee

Spring Fair Estonian Open Air Museum

Welcome in spring at the Spring Fair at the Estonian Open Air Museum! Browse traditional handicrafts , food and more at this annual spring event.

www.evm.ee

tartu Spring daysTartu, Various locations

Enjoy an interesting and thrilling cultural program, and entertainment, exciting for both students and visi-tors alike. This annual event brings together international and local students studying in Estonia.Tartu Spring Dayswww.studentdays.ee/en

11may

18may

1 may

29aPRil-5 may

Vintage tallinnFlower Pavillion / Pirita tee 26

This is the largest gathering of the best vintage businesses in Estonia. Browse clothes, shoes, furniture, records, and home wares. The fair will also feature a photo exhibition by Mats Õun and a cosy café.

www.vintagetallinn.ee

31st Seb tartu marathonOtepää

This marathon is one of the four events in the SEB Tartu series. The 23 km race is the most popular of its kind in Estonia. You can also run the 10 km course, or cover eit-her distance by Nordic walking. The 23 km race starts at Tehvandi Sports Centre in Otepää, and the 10 km event starts in Elva. The finish is at the Tartu County Sports Centre in Elva. Children's races will also be held.

www.tartumaraton.ee 12may

Seb maijooksTallinn Song Festival Grounds

A 7km run or walk for women only at the Song Festival Grounds in Tallinn.

www.jooks.ee

museum Night 2013Various locations

This annual event, held on a Saturday evening in May, marks the pan-European Museum Night. Museums and other institutions stay open later and offer free admission.

www.muuseum.ee/et/kuum/muuseumioo 18may

upcoming summer concertsRock Summer 2515 June - Song Festival GroundsGreen Day Jun 25 – Tallinn Song Festival GroundsElton John29 June - Tallinn Song Festival GroundsÕllesummer3-6 July- Tallinn Song Festival GroundsRobbie Williams20 August - Tallinn Song Festival Grounds

Tickets: www.piletilevi.ee

upcoming events Photo: Toomas Volmer

Photo: Erki-Heiki Meerits Photo: Ardo Säks

Photo: Riina Varol

RAEKOJA PLATS 15TEL. +372 627 6245MON–SUN 10–23

WWW.TROIKA.EE

Live music every night!FROM RUSSIA...WITH LOVE

WELCOME TO THE ESTONIAN OPEN

AIR MUSEUM!

An Estonian village in the capital of Estonia

Open daily at 10-20.Buses: 21 and 21B from the Baltijaam train station. City Tour Blue Line from Viru Square.Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn.Ph. +372 654 9100, www.evm.ee.

May 15-16 – Spring farm daysMay 18 – Night of MuseumsHorse and cart rides, farm work of the past and more.Village shop from the 1930s, traditional Estonian food at the inn

34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45

Rataskaevu 2, Tallinn Tel. +372 641 6440Sizes 34-45 www.vivianvau.ee Mon-Fri 11-19 Sat 12-16

www.balticguide.ee

t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 38

SPA CULTURE IN ESTONIATexT KrIsTIna lupp phoTos esTonIan spa assocIaTIon

Spas in Estonia are by no means a new phenomenon. The first spa dates back to 1824 in Kuresaare after curative sea mud was found. The popularity of spas continued to grow and other spas offering curative mud treatments were built in Haapsalu and Narva-Jõe-suu. Today there are hundreds of spas all over Estonia. Day spas are found in larger cities like Tallinn. Medical spas offer doctors con-sultations and wellness spas let you relax. There are even some spas that encourage you to bring your children along for the water-park and swimming pool, and offer procedures for children too. A spa holiday in Estonia is relaxing and fun for the whole family!

Did you know that tourists have been coming to visit Estonian spas for years, especially for the healing properties of the therapeutic mud? The popularity of Estonian spas continues to grow each year, espe-cially among visitors. In fact, about ¾ of spa guests in 2010 were foreigners.

In every Estonian spa hotel you

will most like-ly find saunas, swimming facilities, as well as a long list of spa treatments –basically everything you need for a relaxing getaway. Since 2008, a classification system for Estonian Medical Spas has been put in place to ensure standardised quality, and the type of hotel. For example some spa hotels offer only relaxa-

tion treatments, but some offer medical treatments as well. Medical spa treatment packages can include a doctor's consultation and therapeutic treatments.

The first mud treatment facili-ties were opened in the 1820s. Local resorts developed quickly, especi-ally Haapsalu and Narva-Jõesuu. “Estonia has always been known for its healing mud,” says Aire Toffer, manager at the Estonian Spa Association. “It is unique. The Russian Imperial family visited frequently during the 19th

Day SpasA day spa is a great place to go for a quick treatment or to spend a relaxing afternoon. In recent years Tallinn has seen a boom in day spas, and it seems that everywhe-re you look you see one. This is by no means a bad thing! A day spa is all about relaxation and wellness. Here you can come for things like chocolate body wraps, hot stone massage or just a simple traditio-nal massage. Most of the day spas in Tallinn offer facials, manicures and pedicures, as well as waxing. So why not try a body wrap follo-wed by a pedicure. Many of the hotels also have day spas within their complexes. Whether in a hotel or in the Old Town, bookings are always recommended.

Day Spas in Tallinnn Enjoy a wide array of spa treat-ments as well as different types of

saunas and pools, including an outdoor pool open all year.

Aqua Spa (Tallink Spa & Conference Hotel) Sadama 11a, Tallinn

n This spa is one of the best in the city. You are taken care of as soon as you walk in, given a robe and led to lounge chair to wait for your treatment. Enjoy a sauna or a dip in the jacuzzi too. It’s the perfect way to spend a relaxing afternoon with a few friends.

Babor Spa, Narva mnt 5, Tallinn

n City Spa is one of the largest spas in the city. There is a fitness club, pool, and childcare facility. Enjoy a wide variety of treatments to relax and unwind.

City Spa, Rävala pst 4, Tallinn

n Enjoy a massage, facial and much more at this Old Town day spa. It has a very cosy and comfor-ting atmosphere that is geared

towards individual treatments rat-her than groups.

Day Spa, Vana-Posti 4, Tallinn Old Town

n This spa is the first spa in Estonia to offer ichthyotherapy, or fish therapy. Dozens of tiny fish swim in a bath around you to remove dead skin cells. Afterwards you are left feeling relaxed and your skin is soft.

Aloe Spa, Rotermanni 5, Tallinn

n Enjoy a small pool, jacuzzi, steam bath, and sauna as well as a wide variety of massages at this luxury spa in Tallinn’s Old Town.

Elemis Spa, (Hotel Telegraaf), Vene 9, Tallinn Old Town

n This is another one of the larger spas in Tallinn. The complex has saunas, a salt chamber, pool, and solarium.

Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Paldiski mnt 4, Tallinn

n This unusual building was once a yachting centre, built for the 1980 Olympics. Today however, you can enjoy a wide variety of spa treat-ments, saunas, a small swimming pool and the beautiful surroun-dings of Pirita.

Pirita TOP Spa Hotel, Regati pst 1, Tallinn

spaSpas in Estonia

Toila Spa Hotel, Ranna 12, toilaMeresuu Spa & Hotel, aia 48 a, Narva-JõesuuAqva Hotel & Spa, Parkali 4, RakvereLaulasmaa Spa, Puhkekodu tee 4, laulasmaaGeorg Ots Spa,tori 2, KuressaareGrand Rose Spa Hoteltallinna 15, KuressaareEstonia Rehabilitation Centera.h. tammsaare pst. 4a, PärnuViiking Spa HotelSadama 15, PärnuPühajärve Spa & Holiday ResortPühajärve 67406, ValgamaaKubija Hotel männiku 43a, VõruViimi Spa Hotel Randvere tee 11, ViimsiKalev Spa & Water Parkaia 18, tallinn Old townPärnu Tervise ParadiisSide 14, Pärnu

mud treatments are available at the following spas in estonia:Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Ranna tee 2, haapsaluLaine Spa Hotel, Sadama 9/11, haapsaluTervis Medical Spa, Seedri 6, PärnuVärska Spa HotelVäike-Rõsna Village, Värska, Põlva

n Did you know?there are many medical spas all around estonia. these are spas that have recei-ved special licensing to provide outpa-tient care. this includes rehabilitation services like massage therapy and exer-cise therapy, as well as dietary consulta-tions. For a full listing of medical spas in estonia visit the estonian Spa associati-on website: www.estonianspas.eu

n Located in the heart of the Old Town, guests will be pampered combining time-honoured techni-ques and modern spa technology.

Reval Day Spa, Pikk 7, Tallinn Old Townn

Relax FOR a dayOr half a day. there is nothing wrong with skipping that walking tour for massage.

centur y, and tourists from

Finland came in the 1930s for the healing mud in Estonia.”

Estonian healing mud treats rheumatism, improves blood cir-culation, soothes sore muscles, but

most importantly, it is relaxing. Mud treatments were also popular during the Soviet period. In the 1980s, approximately 300,000 tourists visited the resort town of Pärnu, of which 25,000 visited spas.

So how does it work exactly? Freshwater therapeutic mud con-tains hydrogen sulphide, meaning that there is mild odour of rotten eggs. The treatment is performed usually as a wrap, where you lie down on a table on top of a blanket and are then covered in warm mud

(41-45 C) and wrapped up. While the mud does not feel

particularly hot at first, after a while you begin

to sweat. n

t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 3 9Other types of saunas:n Salt sauna: the salt sauna is visited after sitting in the steam or Finnish sauna. Natural sea salt is then massaged into the skin and kept on for about 5-10 minutes, after which it is rinsed off with water. in estonia, the salt sauna is heated to 70c. if you have any small cuts on your skin, this will sting.

n Steam Bath: also known as a turkish sauna, or hamam. this sauna is heated to lower a temperature of about 45c. the rooms are fitted with steam faucets that produce steam, which leave the room foggy, with high humidity levels.

n A few tipsGet naked. estonians rarely wear bathing suits in the sauna. many spas will have separated men’s and women’s saunas. in homes, men and women will often go together. if unsure, just ask to avoid embarrassment. bring a towel to sit on.

Heat rises. the top bench will be the hottest, the lower benches cooler. if it’s your first time, start on the bottom and work your way up.

a little water goes a long way. Scoop one or two ladle-fulls of water onto the rocks. the steam is produced instanta-neously.

Whips. the most common whip or "viht" is made from birch branches, though some estonians use oak, nett-les, or even juniper branches. Once you are sweaty, take the branches that have been soaking in water in the sauna, and then gently swat yourself with it. it’s said to increase your circulation.

The Estonian Sauna

the sauna is much more than a place to relax, it’s part of being estonian.

TexT KrIsTIna lupp phoTos andreI cherTKov

Saunas are an important part of Estonian culture. In fact, most Estonians have a sauna at their summer homes, or even in their apartments in the city. The sauna is a place to relax, boost your phy-sical and emotional well being, de-stress, and restore your energy. But most importantly, spend time with friends and family.

It’s hard to know exactly how far back sauna culture goes in Estonia. There is evidence that the some of the earliest saunas were pits dug into a slope on the ground. There was a fireplace where stones were heated to a high temperature. Water was then thrown on the sto-nes to produce heat.

In southern Estonia, smoke saunas are regaining popularity. Estonia is seeking UNESCO World Heritage Site status for this cultural ritual. A smoke sauna is found in the countryside and built into a slope. This small log cabin has a larger stove than the regular Finnish sauna and the benches are situated higher. The stove lets all

the smoke into the room, where meat and fish would be smoked. Afterwards, the smoke is exhau-sted through a small window and then Estonians will go inside and bathe. These saunas were mostly replaced in the last century with chimney saunas or Finnish saunas. A metal wood stove heated the basket of rocks and smoke was exhausted through a chimney.

Temperatures in the sauna are usually between 80-100C. Estonians will sit in the sauna (most always naked) and occasio-nally put water on the rocks to produce steam. In the summer, they will then jump into a lake or pond, which is usually located right outside the door and begin the process all over again. In win-ter, they roll around in the snow instead.n

Where to try it?most hotels in tallinn offer sauna, but here are some of the more interesting ones.CLUB 26 at the Radisosn blu hotel Olümpiathis sauna certainly has the best view. Sweat while enjoying a view of tallinn from the 26th floor.liivalaia 33, tallinn b3 www.club26.eeKalma Saunthis is tallinn’s oldest bathhouse. there are separate women and men’s saunas as well as a swimming pool. built in 1928, it doesn’t get much more historical than this.Vana-Kalamaja 9a, tallinn a1 www.kalmasaun.eeSaunamaaWant to try a traditional smoke sauna? Visit this sauna village in southern estonia. here you try different types of saunas, and deci-de for yourself, which is your favourite. Võrumaa, Rõuge vald, Nogo küla www.saunamaa.ee

beauty creams good enough to eatthe organic tomato facial treatment at Revali ilusalong uses all natural ingredients.

TexT KrIsTIna lupp phoTos andreI cherTKov

Revali Ilusalong has relocated to a quiet corner of Tallinn’s Old Town. The new location on Rüütli gives the salon a quiet and inti-mate atmosphere, as well as a beautiful view from the window. The salon offers everything from manicure and pedicure to hair sty-ling and massage.

The salon has just begun offe-ring the Ella Bachè organic toma-

to facial treatment. This treatment works to reduce signs of fatigue and stress on the face. It also helps with dryness and improves skin’s elasticity, softening wrinkles and brightening the complexion. What’s best about this treatment is that it is suitable for every age and every skin type in need of an energy and vitamin boost.

The French Ella Bachè line gua-rantees the products used for this facial treatment are 100% natural.

The creams contain organic toma-to, apricot blossom, orange, car-rot, blackberry, grape, lemongrass extract, seaweed, and rice flour, just to name a few.

The facial treatment begins with a light body massage, helping the client to release the stress of the day. Then the face is scrubbed with an almond exfoliating cream. The treatment ends with a rubber-like mask. After it has hardened, it is pulled off and skin imme-

diately feels lighter and refreshed. Your skin has a beautiful glow, looking vibrant and toned. The treatment lasts 60 minutes, and because of its natural ingredients you can enjoy it once a week for five weeks.n

locationRüütli 28/30, tallinnwww.revaliilusalong.ee

beauty

t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 310 restaurantsn Kohvik KohalikOpened at the end of last year, this café-restaurant is quickly gaining popularity among locals. They offer an à la carte menu, great tea and coffee to go along with their delicious cakes. Kohalik uses fresh local ingredients, and buy fresh fish daily from Pärnu’s fishermen.

Koidu 82, Tallinnwww.kohalik.ee

n Maru Now that the weather is getting war-mer, it’s time to start moving outside to find the best summer terraces. You need look no further than Maru. Maru is the restaurant located inside the Seaplane Harbour Museum that opened last year. The café-restaurant offers seasonal Nordic cuisine in a very unique setting overlooking the inside of the Seaplane Harbour Museum.

vesilennuki tänav 6, Tallinnwww.lennusadam.eu

talliNN'S lONgeSt RuNNiNg ReStauRaNtS

From French to medieval cuisine, these restaurants have the recipe for success.

GloriaOpened in 1937, this restaurant was once the grandest club in Tallinn. It has survived two occu-pations, and is still going strong under the management of chef Dimitri Demjanov. The elegant pre-war décor and impeccable service are reasons why Gloria is the restaurant of choice for visi-ting heads of state, and other important figures. The menu is a fine example of classic French cui-sine, with little hints of Estonian and Russian influence.

Müürivahe 2, Tallinn Old Town H3www.gloria.ee

Olde Hansa Tallinn’s medieval past keeps visi-tors coming year after year to learn about its history. Olde Hansa restaurant is situated in the site of the old central market. Get a taste for the city’s past, while dining in this truly unique restaurant. Under the same roof, is the medie-val shop Krambude, where you can buy medieval clothes and jewellery, along with dishes, spi-ces, and of course the famous sweet almonds, that can always be smelled roasting outside.

Vana Turg 1, Tallinn Old Town H2www.oldehansa.ee

TroikaThis long-running Russian res-taurant expanded last year with a new 40-seat banquet room to cater to the ever-growing demand for authentic Russian food, drink, and service. The walls and bright interior are luxurious, but in no way excessive. The authentic Rus-sian food is well known at Troika and the service is theatrical. Wai-ters pour vodka shots from high up. The atmosphere is perfect for celebrations and large groups.

Raekoja plats 15, Tallinn Old Town H2www.troika.ee

BonaparteBonaparte celebrates its 15-year anniversary this year with a new chef, Vitali Tihhonov. Tihhonov has worked in some of the world’s

top restaurants, including Noma. The menu is very well put together, and the tasting menu gives a good overview of the new dishes. Pre-sentation is very eloborate. Many of the dishes come bubbling with dry ice or decorated with pine

branches. The waiters are skilled in trying to balance these elabora-tely placed dishes. Nevertheless, the taste of the food was spot on, especially the cep and truffle con-sommé.

Pikk 45, Tallinn Old Town G2www.bonaparte.ee

Restoran Steakhouse LiiviRestoran Steakhouse Liivi celeb-rates its 18th anniversary this year. What keeps them in business year after year –excellent steak, with just about any sauce or topping you can imagine. Our favouri-tes are: the Onion Coat, which comes with a mountain of fried onions and bacon; and the Buffa-lo Steak, with green peppercorn

sauce. There are plenty of potato sides to choose from, but the garlic potatoes are be the best.

Viru Väljak 2, Tallinn B2www.steakhouse.ee

Restoran MaikrahvMaikrahv is another medieval the-med restaurant in Tallinn’s Old Town, but the menu is a little bit more contemporary. Enjoy fil-ling meals inspired by traditional Estonian cuisine and international dishes. The staff is dressed up in medieval clothing and the restau-rant is decorated lavishly. Large groups can enjoy banquet feasts fit for a king.

Raekoja plats 8, Tallinn Old Town H2www.maikrahv.ee

TexT KrIsTIna lupp phoTos andreI cherTKov, TroIKa

t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 3 11restaurantsn Book a TableSimilar to the OpenTable con-cept, Vabalaud offers users the possibility to book a table in a restaurant in Estonia from their website, and even take advanta-ge of offers and discounts. While the English language section of the website is still growing, there is enough information there to make it useable.

www.vabalaud.ee

n New restaurant locations One of the best pizza restaurants has moved! Kärme Küülik closed its doors in February to move to a new location in Tallinn. While we haven’t has a chance to eat at the new restaurant, if it’s anywhere as good as before, you won’t be disappointed. Taking over Kärme Küülik’s old location in the Old Town is the Greek restaurant Artemis. Enjoy grilled meats and fresh salads, and hopefully a large terrace in the summer.

Kärme Küülik, estonia pst 5, Tallinn, www.kyylik.eeArtemis Taverna, harju 7, Tallinn, www.artemis.ee

a gOOd dROPTexT KrIsTIna lupp phoTos andreI cherTKov

PokaalThe Kalamaja suburb of Tallinn is slowly filling up with some of the city’s trendiest restaurants and bars. The latest addition is Pokaal, a wine bar serving snacks and appetisers, and wine, of course! DJs can be heard spinning on the weekends. A great place to spend an evening!

Telliskivi 60a, Tallinnwww.facebook.com/PokaalVeinibaar

Paar VeiniLaid-back and cool, Paar Veini offers a pleasant change to the typi-cal wine bar. Here you find the youth of Tallinn, who create a cool and relaxed atmosphere: the antit-hesis to your typical yuppie wine bar. With affordable wines, it's no surprise that Paar Veini has become a hang out for locals and foreigners alike. Indeed, not only is it known for its wine, but also for the excel-lent yet inexpensive tapas dishes on the menu. As a result, the bar fills up quite quickly on a Friday or Saturday night so arrive early. However, with good wine, good food and some excellent company, there's no reason for not getting a table and settling down for a night in this highly pleasing bar.

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Townwww.paarveini.ee

Luscher & MatiesenThe Luscher & Matiesen terrace on Toompea is a lovely place to

spend a sunny afternoon or warm evening.

Believe it or not, Estonia had a wine culture during the first peri-od of independence. The story starts in 1910 when Swiss-born Arnold Lüscher and Estonian Paul Matiesen decided to open a vodka factory in Moscow. Due to the October Revolution, the pair was forced to leave. In 1921, they deci-ded to open a cellar in Matiesen’s hometown of Tallinn and began importing spirits into Estonia. They imported such products as Barton & Guestier wines, Gordon’s Gin, Johnnie Walker whisky, and Edmond Dupuy cog-nac. Their business flourished and by 1929 their Toompea cellars held over 200,000 litres of wine.

In summer they open a terrace almost overlooking Tallinn in the upper part of the Old Town on Toompea. They serve both a

French white and a Spanish Red under their label, as well as a small snack menu. Follow their updates on Facebook to find out about upco-ming live music events. Cash only.

Kohtu 12, Tallinn Map Code A2.www.matiesen.ee

Wine LibraryYou don’t get more central that this, the Wine Library is located right on the Town Hall Square. The wine list is of moderate length, covering both Old and New World wines. Hungry? They offer light meals and snacks. In the summer, the Wine Library opens a patio on the Town Hall Square.

Enjoy an lazy afternoon in one of the most beautiful locations in Tallinn, while sipping a glass of wine.Raekoja plats 8, Tallinn Old Townwww.winelibrary.ee

Gloria VeinikelderWith the upcoming summer sea-son, a dark basement may be the last place you want to spend your evening, but on the occasional chilly night, get a bottle of wine and cosy up by the fire. Gloria Veinikelder has hundreds of wines to choose from. Thank goodness the knowledgeable staff are there to help you choose the appropriate bottle for your meal or snack.

The Wine Cellar is a wonderful addition to the legendary Gloria restaurant above. The wine bar’s menu is short but striking. Meat, fish, chicken, salads, soups, and starters have only a few options each, but what’s available is excel-lent.

Müürivahe 2, Tallinn Old Town J2www.gloria.ee

KorkOwned and operated by the oldest wine-importer in Estonia, Rein Kasela, Kork Wine Bar and Store is the perfect addition to the Rotermanni Centre. It is located just across from Juustukuningad. The shop has a great selection of wines, ciders, and spirits. In the back of the store, facing the street is the wine bar. Here you can sit either inside or outside and sip on a glass of wine while enjoying a light snack. Their menu consists of bruschettas, salads, cheese, and meat platters ideal for sharing.

Live jazz bands play frequently. The music events are promoted on their Facebook page.

Rotermanni 5, Tallinn Map Code B2www.korkork.ee

VeinipööningBlink and you’ll miss it; in fact most people don’t even know it’s here. Located above a burlesque club on the main street of Tallinn’s Old Town is Veinipööning. Open since 1998, Veinipööning has an extensive wine list, with helpful sommeliers to guide you. They also offer wine courses and degus-tations put on by visiting wine makers. Enjoy this quiet and cosy wine bar and escape the hustle and bustle from below.

Viru 18, Tallinn Old Townwww.vinoteek.ee

Marco VinoThis tiny wine shop and bar is located on a quiet street of Tallinn’s Old Town. The wine bar offers a great selection of Italian wines at reasonable prices. The menu has both hot and cold appe-tisers, showcasing northern Italian culinary traditions. The owner, who is almost always in the shop, wants to chat and tell you about the wines. Stop in for a pre-dinner aperitivo or settle in for the night and enjoy a larger platter of Italian charcuterie and cheese.

Lai 26, Tallinn Old Townwww.marcovino.ee n

upscale

italian

a wine lover's guide to tallinn's wine bars.

t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 312 tOP 10

Estonia has seen many rulers throug-hout its history, including Denmark, Sweden, Germany, and Russia. Influence from these various ruling countries can be seen in architecture, the names of towns and villages, even in cuisine. We’ve compiled a list of the ten best attractions to give you an over-view of Estonia’s rich cultural history.

1 tallinn’s Old town

the estonian medieval era began in 1227. estonia was part of the territory of Old-livland, divided between the brothers of the Sword, two bishoprics, and the King of denmark. tallinn was part of the hanseatic league, and this is evident in the architecture of the uNeScO protected Old town. you will see old salt, tea, and flour warehouses that still have the attic doors with hooks outside, used to pull up goods. the Old town still has its original street system, and most of the houses built in the 14th and 15th centuries still have their original form.

2 Naorootsi

this beautiful coastal area in western estonia is soaked with Swedish and Soviet history. Naorootsi is the settle-ment area of the estonian Swedes who arrived in western estonia and the islands in the 13th century. Swedes inhabited this area until 1939 when it became a Soviet border zone. most of the Swedes left until the border zone disappeared at the end of the 1980s. Noarootsi is a great place for hiking, sailing, hunting, and bird watching.

3 Vormsi island

Once inhabited by the coastal Swedes, this island was closed off during the Soviet occupation. Vormsi is located bet-ween the island of hiiumaa and the wes-tern coast of estonia. it is the country’s fourth largest island. get a glimpse of the early history of the island at the 14th century church. Vormsi cemetery is the only place in estonia with celtic crosses from the 13th century. because of its size, Vormsi is best toured by bicycle or on foot. if you do come by car, come with a full tank, as there are no petrol stations on the island. take the ferry from Rohuküla port (108km from tallinn); the journey takes about 45 minutes.

4 tartu university

One of the most well-known figures from the Swedish period is King gustav ii adolf. he founded the university of tartu in 1632. tartu university is one of the oldest universities in Northern europe and has produced many distinguished scientists and scholars such as baltic german biologist Karl ernst von baer and Russian Juri lotman (semiotics and cul-ture). tartu is still a student town and the best time to visit is in spring during the Student Spring days (april 29 – may 5).

5 baltic german manor houses

the estonian landscape is spotted with old manor houses, once owned by mainly baltic german nobility. many of the manors that you can see today in estonia were built between 1760 and World War One, by baltic german nobi-lity. after estonian agrarian land reform, the manors were used for schools, or just simply left empty, and the surrounding land divided into small peasant holdings. during the Soviet period, the deteriorati-on of these buildings continued further, as they were only appreciated for their practical value. Visit www.mois.ee for a comprehensive listing of manor houses across estonia, including pictures and a short description.

6 toompea castle

this majestic castle in tallinn’s Old town is one of estonia’s oldest. it was built between the 13th-14th centuries, and has been conquered by estonia’s various rulers. historically, the area of toompea was separate from the rest of the Old town, inhabited by nobility and ruled by knights.

7 Nevsky cathedral

the Russian Orthodox church has deep roots in estonia. located in toompea, this Russian Orthodox church will be hard to miss. this beautiful church is easily accessible and is a fine example of Russian Orthodox architecture.

8 Kuremäe convent

located in eastern estonia, near Narva, Kuremäe convent is the only func-tioning Russian Orthodox nunnery in estonia. it was established in 1891 and the convent gates are open to visitors. in ancient times, this area was considered a sacred place with a sacrificial spring located at the foot of the hill. today the water is known for its healing powers.

9 the Old believers

in the 17th century, the Old believers came to estonia to avoid Russian persecution. their religion is an old form of Russian Orthodoxy and today there about 15,000 Old believers living in towns around lake Peipsi. Visit the Old believer’s museum in Kolkja Village to learn more of their fascinating history and traditions, and be sure to have a meal at the fish and onion restaurant.

1 Narva

Narva is the easternmost point of estonia and eu. the Narva river divides Russia and estonia, and from the hermann Fortress you can look across the river to Russia and the castle on the other side. Narva was once the “baroque Pearl of the baltic Sea,” but during World War ii, the city was almost completely destroyed. Visit Narva for an interesting glimpse at Russian estonia, Soviet architecture, one of the best preserved castles in estonia.

10

LEARN ABOUT ESTONIA'S HISTORY

Summer in EstoniaThe best travel tips and events for 2013

14-15 Western Estonia

17 The Islands

18 Northern Estonia

19 Southern Estonia

21 Tartu

14 Western estonia

TOP 5

01 PäRNu’S SaNdy beacheSEstonia’s most popular beach is filled with thousands of sunbathers on a hot day.

05 muSeumSWhen in Haapsalu be sure to visit the Estonian Swedish Museum and Railway Museum; and in Pärnu, wander through the History Museum and the Museum of New Art.

02 KihNu iSlaNdKihnu makes an excellent day trip from the mainland. Points of interest on the island include a lighthouse, museum, and the locals. Kihnu has its own dialect and culture and is a UNESCO world heritage site.

03 haaPSalu ePiScOPal caStle A majestic castle rises from the centre of this small town. On the night of the full moon in August, the ghost of the White Lady can be seen from the window Baptistry.

04 matSalu NatiONal PaRKOne of Estonia’s most beautiful protected national parks is worth a visit in summer. The wetlands are best visited with a canoe or boat.

t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 315

Western estonia’s spa townsPärnu and haapsalu connect old

spa traditions with the sea.

TexT and phoTos MIKKo vIrTa, JareK Jõepera, eas

It’s no coincidence that Pärnu has become Estonia’s favourite summer destination. Spas were already in operation in the town in the 17th century. There is a long sandy beach and the shallow waters make it an ideal swimming spot for children. The warm sea waters keep vacationers coming back year after year. Pärnu is also filled with tall shady trees, lush green parks, and elegant 1930s functionalist architecture.

Pärnu’s beaches are filled from morning to night on hot days, with thousands of people soaking up the sun’s rays. For those that prefer a quieter beach, Audru Valgerand or Häädemeeste Beach are good options.

Haapsalu is like something straight out of a fairy-tale: old wooden houses built on

how to get there:buses to Pärnu from tallinn depart almost hourly. to drive, takes about two hours. the train journey from tallinn to Pärnu takes about three hours. the car journey from tallinn to haapsalu takes under two hours. buses depart for haapsalu frequently.

narrow streets, overlooking a sparkling sea. Be sure to visit the majestic Episcopal Castle in the centre of town.

The beloved Ilon Wikland children’s book series illustrator, Astrid Lindgren lived in Haapsalu as a child, where she no doubt found inspiration for her work. Ilon’s Wonderland is found in an old green woo-den house where you can meet all the cha-racters and wander through the interactive exhibits.

Haapsalu is the ideal quiet family desti-nation with many playgrounds. n

Distances:n tallinn—Pärnu 135 kmn tallinn—haapsalu 100 km

Largest cities:n Pärnu: 43,000 inhabitantsn haapsalu: 11,000 inhabitantsn lihula: 2,500 inhabitants

TALLINN

HAAPSALU

KIHNU

LIHULA

PÄRNU

Konse Motel & Caravan Park

Suur-Jõe 44a, Pärnu. Tel +372 53 435 092, Fax +372 44 55 070, e-mail:info@konse.ee

www.konse.ee

Located in Pärnu's city centre, on the banks of the Pärnu River • Accommodation for 60 in two, three, or four person rooms

• Family rooms with kitchenette • Fenced parking lot • 65 caravan spaces with power supply (separate showers

and WC) • Sauna with fireplace • Bicycle rental

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The Museum of the Coastal SwedesSadama 31, Haapsalu

Open T-Sa 10-18www.aiboland.eeph. +372 47 37 165

Jazzkaar: top musicians in Tallinn

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t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 3 17Western estonia's islands

TOP 501 FOlK cultuReKihnu Island’s culture is a UNESCO world heri-tage site. Elderly ladies driving motorcycles with sidecars, while wearing traditional folk clothing is a regular sight on Kihnu.

05 KuReSSaaRe celebRateS 450 yeaRSThe main attraction of Saaremaa’s capital is the Episcopal Castle. This medieval castle with a moat houses the stage of the summer opera festival. The castle is in excellent condition, and the inside houses a museum that is well worth a visit. The city of Kuressaare celebrates its 450th anniversary this year.

02 NatuReEstonia’s islands are home to many interesting bird, plant, and animal species. You will find wild boar and deer, majestic eagles, and different types of orchids. Bird watching can be done on every island, all year round, but their migration period is the most spectacular.

03 lighthOuSeSHiiumaa’s main attraction is the Kõpu lighthouse, built at the beginning of the 16th century. This is one of the world’s oldest working lighthouses. Kihnu, as well as some of the other islands have lighthouses that can be visited by tourists.

04 thatched ROOFS aNd WiNdmillSThatched roof houses can be seen on Estonian islands. Koguva, on the island of Muhu is the best place to see these traditio-nal farmhouses. This village has many that-ched roof buildings, including a museum. The windmills in Angla village on Saaremaa, is the best place to see these traditional structures, as there are not many left in other places.

Tranquility, nature, and an old world atmosphere

estonia’s islands offer tourists everything they need for a relaxing break.

how to get there:n A ferry connects Saaremaa and Muhu (Virtsu Port) from Kuivastu. (approximate journey time 30 minutes). Muhu is connected to Saaremaa by a bridge. The distance between Kuivastu and Kuressaare is 75 km.n Ferries to Hiiumaa (heltermaa Port) leave from the Rohuküla Port. (approximate journey time 90 minutes).n A regular ferry runs between Hiiumaa and Saaremaa from the towns of Triigi and Sõru, res-pectively. (approximate journey time 75 minutes).n Ferry schedules, and ticket sales can be found at: www.tuulelaevad.ee.n Vormsi is accessible by a ferry that runs bet-ween the ports of Rohuküla and Sviby.n The ferry from Pärnu to Kihnu takes about 2.5 hours, where as the journey from Munalaiu to Kihnu is about an hour. n Ferries to Ruhnu leave from Munalaiu and Roomassaare port on Saaremaa.

Distances:n tallinn–Virtsu 135 kmn tallinn–Rohuküla 110 kmn tallinn–munalaiu 165 km

Western Estonia’s largest islands:n Saaremaa: approximate area 2 670 km², approximately 40,000 inhabitants.n Hiiumaa: approximate area 1 000 km², approximately 10,000 inhabitants.n Muhu: approximate area 200 km², under 2,000 inhabitants.n Vormsi: approximate area 93 km², 400 inhabitants.n Kihnu: approximate area 17 km², 500 inhabitants.n Ruhnu: approximate area 11 km², under 100 inhabitants.

TexT JuKKa arponen, phoTos JareK Jõepera, GrahaM MITchell,

TooMas Tuul, www.vIsITsaareMaa.ee

Anyone looking for a bustling city break should steer clear of Estonia’s islands. The fast-paced modern world has not reached the islands, yet. On the smaller islands, and Hiiumaa, there is a feeling of having gone back 100 years in time. And the lar-gest island, Saaremaa, is quiet and peaceful compared to Tallinn.

There is so much to see on Estonia’s islands, especially if you take a few extra days to see them all. Unique nature and pre-served folk culture is the specialty of the islands, but don’t worry, modern amenities can be found as well. n

Ruhnu

TALLINN

KÄRDLA

Kihnu

KURESSAARI

Saaremaa

Hiiumaa

Muhu

Vormsi

t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 318 Northern estonia

TOP 5

01 thRee bOdieS OF WateRNorth-eastern Estonia is bordered by three bodies of water: the country's largest lake, Peipsi Lake; Narva River, and the Gulf of Finland. The sands of the shores of Narva-Jõesuu and Peipsi Lake are the best in Estonia.

05 RaKVeReLääne-Virumaa’s most interesting cultural city has grown over the last few years to make it a truly fascinating tourist destination. A medie-val castle is among the noteworthy sites.

02 limeStONe baNKSLimestone banks or escarpments run along the northern coast of Estonia. The closest one to Tallinn is in Türisalu. The highest are in Ida-Virumaa in the area of Ontika.

03 lahemaa NatiONal PaRK aNd maNOR hOuSeS Since the Soviet period this national park has been a favourite destination for families. There are three manor house hotels nearby, Vihula Manor being the one that has grown in popularity over the last few years.

04 ViRu FOlK aNd KauNid KONtSeRdid Summer music festivals and concerts begin in the small town of Käsmu at the beginning of the summer, and end in August with the Viru Folk Festival.

Northern EstoniaRich in culture, natural beauty, and manor houses,

northern estonia offer visitors a little bit of everything.

TexT MIKKo savIKKo phoTos TooMas Tuul, JareK Jõepera, JaaK

nIlson, vIru folK, eas

North-eastern Estonia is mainly Russian speaking, and is where most of Estonia’s energy comes from.

Tourism has developed quickly over the last few years, and there is so much to see and do east of Tallinn, from the manor house hotel in Lahemaa to the summer des-tination town of Narva-Jõesuu.

Travelling through the north-eastern part of Estonia, it’s difficult not to notice the differences in culture, language, archi-tecture, and nature. The town of Sillamäe was closed during the Soviet period, but today it shows the visitor excellent examp-

how to get there:trains depart from tallinn to Rakvere, twice daily, and once daily to Jõhvi and Narva. travel time bet-ween tallinn and Narva is about three and a half hours. the train line splits in the town of tapa and heads towards tartu. heading west from tallinn, a train connects to Paldiski nine times daily. bus service is available to all destinations mentioned above.

les of Stalinist architecture. Nearby is Sinimäe, which has been fought over, over the years.

When driving east of Tallinn take the coastal road, which will offer beautiful views over the sea. n

TALLINN

RAKVERE

KOHTLA-JÄRVENARVA

JÕHVi

MUSTVEE

PALDISKI

Distances:n tallinn—Rakvere 99 kmn tallinn—Jõhvi 165 kmn tallinn—Narva 211 kmn tallinn—mustvee 173 kmn Narva—mustvee 119 kmn tallinn—Paldiski 49 km

Largest cities:n Narva: 65,500 inhabitantsn Kohtla-Järve: 37,200 inhabitantsn Sillamäe: 16,000 inhabitantsn Rakvere: 16,600 inhabitants

t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 3 t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 3 19Southern estonia

TOP 501 PÜha mÜRiStuS!Is the theme of this year’s Viljandi XXI Folk Festival (25-28 July), meaning “Holy com-motion” in English. It introduces different celebration traditions from Estonia, as well as elsewhere in the world. People of all ages will flock to towards Viljandi to enjoy the music and the festive spirit.

05 SaNd duNeSSand dunes are dug out from the Ahja River that runs through Taevaskoda near Põlva, but the Härma walls made by the Piusa River near Meremäe are even taller.

02 the SetO KiNgdOmOn the third day of August, you are invited to the XX Seto Kingdom in Luhamaa. During the day the best Seto craftsmen from different trades will be chosen and the next “sootska” or king will be chosen for the upcoming year.

03 PÜha V… Or the towns of southern Estonia. Valga’s neighbour is Valka in Latvia, residents of Võru speak their own language, and Viljandi’s history dates back to the 11th century. The centre of the Seto community can be found in Värska.

04 SOOmaaSoomaa National Park offers hikers and pad-dlers many challenging routes.Culture enthusiasts can head towards Hüpassaar for a sunrise concert on Midsummer’s Day.

Stunning Landscapesand ancient traditions make southern estonia truly unique

Distances:

TexT MIKKo savIKKo, phoTos TooMas Tuul, urMas volMer, eas

The area that now makes up Southern Estonia was once part of Latvia. The Rus-sian Petseri County, Võrumaa, and the Seto community in Põlvamaa, are also points of interest. A distinct dialect can be heard in Võrumaa. For example the word "keel," meaning language in Estonia, is pronoun-ced "kiil" in the Võru dialect. It is particu-larly noticeable in the written language.

The inhabitants of Mulgimaa, the area outside of Viljandi, are known as “Mulks.” The Estonian president, Toomas Hendrik

how to get there:take the train from tallinn to Valga, and then from there, to Viljandi. trains leave twice daily. a bus service to Viljandi runs almost hourly. buses leave for Võru and Valga seven times daily.

TALLINN

VILJANDI

VALGAVÕRU

PÕLVA

n tallinn – Viljandi 159 kmn tallinn – Võru 253 kmn tallinn – Valga 267 kmn Viljandi – Valga 88 kmn Viljandi – Võru 124 kmn tallinn – Põlva 231 kmn Võru – Põlva 25 km

Largest cities:n Viljandi 19,900 inhabitantsn Võru 14,300 inhabitantsn Valga 13,600 inhabitantsn Põlva 6,500 inhabitants

Ilves is from this area. This region has some of the best farmlands in the country.

It is worth becoming acquainted with southern Estonia’s history, and the surroun-ding landscapes are beautiful. Tall spruce trees, large oaks, deep lakes and rolling hills make up the landscape. During the summer be sure to visit one of the many festivals taking place in the area. n

Authentic Italian food prepared by our Italian chefs.

Restaurant and Pizzeria

Kompanii 10, Tartu Tel. +372 7407 545 www.ladolcevita.ee

Italian

Open M-Th 11.30-23.00 F,Sa11.30-24.00, Su 12.00-23.00

- Our pizzas are cooked in a wood fire oven.- Delicious pasta that melts in your mouth.- Located in the heart of Tartu.- A cosy summer terrace.- WiFi

As the weather warms up, di�erent events can be seen on the streets of Tartu. The programme o�ers something for everyone - for babies and the elderly, sports enthusiasts and artists.

MAY (May-September 2013)

Tower Music (Tornimuusika) Every Tuesday night this summer, listen to exclusive concerts (up to 50 listeners) in the tower of the Tartu Jaani Church. Folk, jazz, modern classical - each concert is di�erent. www.tornimuusika.ee

12.5.13 SEB 31st Tartu Marathon (Tartu Jooksumaraton)The 23 km race is the most popular of its kind in Estonia. You can also run the 10 km course, or cover either distance by Nordic walking. The 23 km race starts at Tehvandi Sports Centre in Otepää, and the 10 km starts in Elva. The �nish is at the Tartu County Sports Centre in Elva. Children's races will also be held. www.tartumaraton.ee

15.–19.5.13 Festival RegiÖÖ “RegiÖÖ“ is an international archaic arts festival. The festival involves songs and dances in which the audience joins in. Test your skills at the performing contest “Improvisation in Heritage Music.” www.tartu.ee/regioo

JUNE2.6. Tartu Cycling Rally (Tartu Rattaralli)The Tartu Cycling Rally is the most popular road cycling event in neighbouring countries. In addition to professional cyclists, the 135 km and 60 km distances attract thousands of amateur sportsmen. The race starts and ends in the Tartu city centre and mostly takes place on winding South Estonian roads. Shorter distances are available for youngsters and children. www.tartumaraton.ee

8.6. Blues Festival (Bluusifestival EMAJÕE BLUUS 2013)This festival is a collaboration between Tartu Blues Club and the Trehv Club. The main concerts of the festival will take place in the two rooms of the Trehv, Narva mnt 25a. The festival program has close to 20 concerts performed by Estonian and international artists. www.emajoebluus.com

6.–9.6. Estonian Composers Festival (Eesti Heliloojate Festival)The Estonian Composers Festival brings a �rst-rate programme of contemporary Estonian music to listeners, and includes the premieres of around a dozen new works by Estonia’s younger composers. In addition to orchestral concerts and master classes, there will also be interdisciplinary street and club programmes. The heart of the festival is Tartu’s most digni�ed concert site, St John’s Church. www.composer.ee

JULY19.7–21.7. Tartu Hanseatic Days (Lõhnavad Tartu Hansapäevad)Hanseatic Days revive the idea of Tartu as an ancient trading town on the border of East and West. The festival heart is the big handicraft and farm product market in the city centre squares and park areas. Old techniques and customs are introduced; concerts, dance parties and exhibitions take place. www.hansapaevad.ee

18.–23.7. Festival “Glasperlenspiel” 2013 (Festival Klaaspärlimäng 2013)The festival name has been inspired by the events of Hermann Hesse's novel of the same title. This hints that “Glasperlenspiel“ showcases musicians interpreting musical works from an unusual angle. The reputable festival focuses on original instruments, unusual collectives and connections with other arts and philosophy. www.klaasparlimang.com

AUGUST1.–4.8 9th Wind Band Festival(9. rahvusvaheline puhkpillifestival ”Mürtsub pill”)“Mürtsub pill“ is a cheerful international summer event �lling Tartu’s city centre with diverse wind music. At the largest orchestral music festival in Estonia one can listen to children’s orchestras, dance to big band music and enjoy a grandiose concert by joint orchestras. www.potartu.ee

5.–10.8 Love Film Festival (Armastus�lmide festival tARTuFF)For one week “tARTuFF“ will use cinematic language to speak about cultural tolerance and love in all of its forms. On tender August nights, this unique and popular open-air cinema will gather thousands of �lm fans in Town Hall Square. A colourful selection of art-house cinema, an insightful documentary programme with lectures, conversation tables and concerts – are free to everyone. www.tartu�.ee

25.8. 7th In-Line Skating Marathon (Tartu Rulluisumaraton)The SEB Tartu In-Line Skating Marathon is the largest in-Line skating event in Scandinavia

and the Baltics. The race starts in Jõgeva and �nishes in Tartu. Distances are 48 and 19 km, presenting good challenges for skaters of all abilities. www.tartumaraton.ee

Cultural SummerCultural Summer

t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 3 21tartumayNews

estonian air check-in chargeStarting in august, estonian air will begin charging passengers for using their check-in service booths. the airline is struggling financially and in the pro-cess of restructuring. estonian air will charge 10€ for check-in at the airport, but web, mobile, and self-service check-in will remain free of charge. it’s not all bad news, the airline will give a 25% discount of the basic passenger fare for children between the ages of 2-11.

estlink 2 Nears completionconstruction of estlink 2, the second underwater power cable to connect estonia and Finland, will be completed in august. testing will then begin in October,. the project began in February of 2012 and is set to be ready for use in 2014. this will triple the electrical supply between Nordic and baltic markets. the project cost 320 million euros, with 100 million euros in eu support. the remaining cost will be shared between estonian and Finnish taxpayers.

tax evaders bewareestonia’s tax and customs board con-firmed that they are using google map Street View to gather information on tax dodgers. the lithuanian tax board is also using information from the same source and has found 100 houses and 30 construction companies that they suspect of avoiding taxes. “google map Street View is an additional source of information that we may use before eva-luating locations with the aim of asses-sing real estate, for example, if a person has declared little or no income, but the house where that person lives has great value,” said tõnis Kuuse, the head of the intelligence department at the estonian tax and customs board.

Spotify Now available in estoniathe wait is over; Spotify, the online music streaming service, is now available in estonia, latvia, and lithuania. Since its initial launch in 2008, it has taken four and a half years for the service to come to estonia. the service was founded in Sweden and offers listeners over 20 mil-lion music tracks. Spotify is supported by visual and radio advertising. the service is now available in 28 countries. it has over 24 million active users.

Finns Spend Record amount in estoniaa recent survey from a Finnish mer-chants association found that over 80% of Finnish tourists bought alcohol and 58% purchased sweets while visiting estonia in 2012. Finnish visitors spent a total of 501 million euros. this figure was up 8% from 2011. around 20% of Finnish citizens visited estonia at least twice last year. low prices were the main factor for this rise. One quarter of the alcohol purchased in estonia was taken to Finland. the Finnish government has also implemented taxes on sweets and sugary beverages, making them much more affordable here in estonia.

Summer in tartu is packed full of cultural events, for children and adults alike.

TexT: KrIsTIna lupp, phoTos: JaaK nIlson

Tartu’s history dates back to the 13th century, but became known in 1632 with the establishment of the university. Since then, Tartu has become a student’s city, where 20,000 of the 100,000 inhabitants are students. Some of the Tartu’s most well known landmarks include the Emajõgi River that flows through the centre of town, Toome Hill, the university’s main building with its distinguished columns, and of course the “kis-

SightsTOP 1001 tOWN hall SquaRe (RaeKOJa PlatS)A well-known fountain, numerous restaurants and cafés create a vibrant centre in Tartu. Museums and small shops can also be found nearby.

 02 uNiVeRSity OF taRtu maiN buildiNg (taRtu ÜliKOOli PeamaJa)The university's main building is located right in the centre of the city. Visit the main hall, art museum, and the historical detention chamber, where mischievous students were once punished for bad behaviour. For a virtual tour of the university visit: http://www4.ut.ee/virtuaaltuur/

 03 tOOme hill (tOOmemägi)A towering ridge located in the centre of the city has a park area that is a favourite for jogging enthusiasts and dog walkers. Stop at the small café or kiss your sweetheart on Musimägi, where it is customary to bring a padlock to hang from the railing to express your love.

 04 SuPiliNN "Soup Town" can be found near the city centre and is made up of authentic wooden houses. The best way to get acquainted with the area is to attend the annual spring festival, but even a leisurely walk through the neighbourhood will give you a good picture.

 05 FeStiValS aNd cultuReTartuFF, PÖFF, and DRAAMA. The city organises many festivals and events throughout the year. Enjoy film festivals and theatre performances. During the spring and autumn, there are many student festivals as well.

06 taRtu muSeumSTartu has many wonderful museums. Be sure to visit the University of Tartu History Museum to become acquai-nted with the history of science and university education in Tartu from the 17th century to the present day. The

Old Observatory was once one of the most advanced astronomical research facilities in the world. Built in 1808-1810, the observatory was used until 1964 when researchers moved to the newly built observatory in Tõravere. A three-year renovation was completed in 2011, and the Old Observatory is open once again to visitors.

07 ahhaaThe Science Centre AHHAA in Tartu wants to bring science to everyone through interactive exhibits, fun for the whole family. There are three main rooms: the hall of technology, the hall of nature, and the hall of temporary exhibits. The temporary exhibits chan-ge about every six months. AHHAA also has a planetarium and flight simulator.

08 StudeNt daySTartu’s city centre is taken over by students who put on entertaining cul-tural and sporting events. One of the most significant and crazy events is the boat race, which takes place along the Emajõgi River that runs through town. The fun is in the eye-catching vessels, made out of anything that floats or doesn’t float. If you prefer to stay dry, warm, and on land, enjoy the student market, song festival or one of the pub rallies. The Student Days finish up with a huge party on the night of Walpurgis, which marks the definite arrival of spring! 29 April – 5 May, www.studentdays.ee

09 taRtu adVeNtuRe PaRKOpened last June, the Tartu Adventure Park is the latest in outdoor fun. Located in the Raadi district in an old gravel pit, there are 50 different challenges for you to conquer like climbing and zip lining.www.tartuseikluspark.ee

10 bOtaNical gaRdeNSSummer is the best time to visit Tartu’s Botanical Gardens. Take a tour of the large greenhouse, housing hundreds of foreign species, or enjoy the sunshi-ne in the outdoor garden.

TArTu –a city OF gOOd thOughtS

how to get there?n Air Flybe has six weekly connecting flights to and from helsinki. Flight time is 50 minutes. www.tartu-airport.ee, www.flybe.comn Bus an express bus runs between tartu and tallinn between 7.00-20.00 on the hour. estonian buses offer free WiFi, and pass through the tallinn airport.information and schedules for national bus lines can be found at: www.tpilet.eelux express busses run between Riga and St. Petersburg, stopping in tartu. these buses are comfortable and luxurious, with en route service of warm drinks and snacks. information and schedules for international bus lines can be found at: www.eurolines, www.ecolines.een Train morning and evening trains connect tallinn and tartu daily. the tartu-Valga line connects to the Riga line from Valga.For more information and schedules visit: www.edel.ee

For more information about tartu visit: www.visittartu.comtourist informationRaekoda, tartu. Summer opening hours (starting 15.05): mo-Fr 9-18; Sa, Su 10-17.

sing students” in the Town Hall Square fountain.

It is the cradle of the Estonian Song Festival, Estonian theatre and the Estonian state. It is often referred to as the city of good thoughts; and no doubt, new ideas are sprawling and bubbling in the auditoriums, laboratories, and in the minds of students. Because of its dynamic development and innovative atmosphere, Tartu University is attracting an ever growing number of foreign stu-dents and researchers. n

t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 322 museum

SummeR at the eStONiaN OPeN aiR muSeum the estonian Open air museum is a pleasant journey through estonian history, regions and traditions. Visitors can take part in many of the activities surrounded by lush greenery, meadows, forests, and the

sea. here is a look at some the exhibits on display this summer.

TexT and phoTo evM

n Sassi-Jaani FarmThe exhibitions and a display of items provide an overview of Estonian farm building, house-hold articles, crop farming, and animal husbandry over the course of history.

Dance performances of the Folklore Society Leigarid take place on Saturdays and Sundays from May 25 to September 1 at 11:00.

n Nuki FarmThe poor family earns its daily bread by handicraft. The house-wife crochets fine lace, does drawn thread work or any other work depending on what richer people order.

On Saturdays and Sundays (from May 5 to September 15) Kriuks King the shoemaker will be making footwear to order.

n Härjapea FarmThe housewives of this 1930s farm are experts at both handicraft and cooking delicious meals.

On Saturdays in June, July, and August they will be using items from the museum collection to introduce the making of various textiles, and on Sundays they will be boiling, stewing, roasting and baking fascinating dishes from recipes from cookery books of the 1920s and 1930s.

n Aarte Farm

Aarte farm residents make their living by coastal fishing. Baltic small herrings have been hung to dry under the eave. Apart from other chores, the housewife is making a patchwork quilt.

At weekends, the coffee bought from Finnish friends is roasted and ground.

n Jüri-Jaagu FarmJüri-Jaagu farm demonstrates the islanders’ love of bright colours and their bold use in textiles and buildings.

The housewife will help you devise your own family mark or paint a colourful Muhu door on a shingle.

Honeyed words of a farm lad who has come to see one of the daughters of the family at twilight can be overheard at the door of the storehouse.

n Kolga FarmWork and play go hand in hand on Hiiumaa.

The housewife has several chores to do. The stand has been set up for netting, and rainy days are perfect for weaving rugs on a loom.

Hiiumaa jokes can be heard in the kiln room, and someone from the mainland might need them to be repeated once or twice before they get them.

n Roosta FarmOn our oldest farm, children will be able to learn about old games: walking on stilts, the “blacksmith’s hammer” game, and stick tugging.

On June 6, July 4, August 1 and 29 (waning moon Thursdays), Lahemaa Health Academy will demonstrate the methods that were used in Estonian folk medicine: sauna, sauna therapy and water therapy; Old Estonian massage and force therapies; honey and bees in Estonian folk medicine; cupping, wet cupping and leeches in Estonian folk medicine; healing herbs.

In the prayer house of the Hernhut Brethern one can hear the brot-

herhood congregation’s prayers and imagine how they were said.

n Sepa FarmSheep husbandry is the main acti-vity on the Sepa farm. However, processing wool requires special skills. The housewife will show and explain the operations needed for warm socks to be made of wool.

On Saturdays and Sundays (from May 18 to September 15) blacksmith’s apprentices from Kopli Vocational School will be working in the smithy.n

Estonian Open air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinnwww.evm.ee

t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 3 23museum

TALLINN

n museums estonian museum of applied art and design (eesti tarbekunsti- ja disainimuuseum)lai 17, tallinn Old town, 1g. www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

estonian history museum great guild hall (eesti ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, tallinn Old town, g1www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 th-tu 10–18

estonian history museum maarjamäe Palace maarjamäe castle, Pirita tee 56, tallinn, a5www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 10–17

estonian maritime museum (eesti meremuuseum) Pikk 70, tallinn Old town, d3www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 tu-Su 10–18

estonian museum of Natural history (eesti loodusmuuseum)lai 29a, tallinn Old town, F2www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17

estonian Open air museum (eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, tallinn. www.evm.ee23.04-28.09 mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 mo-Su 10-17

estonian theatre and music museum (eesti teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) müürivahe 12, tallinn Old town, i2www.tmm.ee. We-Sa 10-18

Kiek in de Kök & bastion PassagesKommandandi tee 2, tallinn Old town, J1www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/1.03-31.10 tu-Su 10.30-181.11-29.02 tu-Su 10-17.30

miia-milla-manda museum (muuseum miia-milla-manda)l. Koidula 21c, tallinn b4www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. tu-Su 12-18

dominican monastery museum (dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum) Vene 16, tallinn Old town, g3www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 mon-Sun 11-17 Winter by appointment only.

museum of estonian architecture (eesti arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu)ahtri 2, tallinn, a2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.eeWe 12–18, th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18

museum of Puppet arts NuKu (Nukumuuseum NuKu)lai 1, tallinn Old town, g1. www.nuku.ee. tu-Su 10-19

Occupation museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum)toompea 8, tallinn Old town, b1www.okupatsioon.ee. tu-Su 11 - 18

Photo museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)Raekoja 4, tallinn Old town, h2. (located behind tallinn’s Old town Square)www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum1.03-31.10 th-tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 th-tu 10-17.30

tallinn city museum (tallinna linnamuuseum)Vene 17, tallinn Old town, g3www.linnamuuseum.ee We – mo 10.30–17.30

Viru hotel and Kgb museum (hotell Viru ja Kgb muuseum)Viru väljak 4, tallinn b2http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/N.b. 01.11.12-31.03.2012 closed on mondaysPlease contact the hotel to make a booking. tours available in english, Finnish, and Russian.

n art museums & galleriesadamson-eric museum (adamson-ericu muuseum)lühike jalg 3, tallinn Old town, i1www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 11–18

muSeumS & galleRieSKadrioru art museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)Weizenbergi 37, tallinn, a4. www.kadriorumuuseum.eeJan–apr: We 10–20, th–Su 10–17may–June : th 10–17, We 10–20, th–Su 10–17

mikkeli museum (mikkeli muuseum)Weizenbergi 28, tallinn, b4. www.mikkelimuuseum.eeJan–June: We 10–20, th-Su 10–17July–dec: tu, th-Su 10–17, We 10–20

Kumu art museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, tallinn, b5www.kumu.eeOct–apr:  We 11–20, th–Su 11–18may–Sept: tu 11–18, We 11–20, th–Su 11–18

Niguliste museum (Niguliste muuseum)Niguliste 3, tallinn Old town, i1www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17 ticket office closes 16.30

TARTU

n museumsestonian literary museum (eesti Kirjandusmuuseum)Vanemuise 42, tartuwww.kirmus.ee. mo-th 9 - 17, Fr 9 - 16.30

estonian National museum (eesti Rahva muuseum)Kuperjanovi 9, tartu. www.erm.ee. tu-Su 11 - 18

estonian Sports museum (eesti Spordimuuseum)Rüütli 15, tartu. www.spordimuuseum.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

Kgb cells museum (Kgb Kongide muuseum)Riia 15b, tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. tu-Sa 11- 16

museum of the 19th century citizen of tartu (19. Saj. tartu linnakodaniku muuseum)Jaani 16, tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. We-Su 10-15

Postal museum (Postimuuseum)Rüütli 15, tartuwww.erm.ee/en/visit/postal-museum. We-Su 11- 18

tartu city museum (tartu linnamuuseum)Narva 23, tartu. tu-Sa 11- 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Old Observatory (tähetorn)lossi 40, tartutu-Su 10 - 18. http://www.ajaloomuuseum.ut.ee/tahetorn

tartu Song Festival museum (tartu laulupeomuuseum)Jaama 14, tartutu-Sa 12 - 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

tartu toy museum (tartu mänguasjamuuseum)lutsu 8, tartu www.mm.ee. We – Su 11 – 18

city hall museum (Raemuuseum)Raekoda, tartu (town hall Square)http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee/?m=415.09-14.05 mo 9-18, tu-Fr 9-17, Sa-Su 10-1415.05 -14-09 mo-Fr 9-18, Sa-Su 10-17

TexT: TooMas KäbIn , phoTo: MuseuM of occupaTIons

The fighters were called The Forest Brot-hers. Follow the dramatic events at the Estonian Museum of Occupations. It gives an overview of armoured resistance in Esto-nia between 1944 and the early 1950s.

The focus of the exhibition is on the cau-ses, aspirations and outcome of the fighters through the prism of organised activities as well as real stories of the Forest Brothers. The guerrilla war started immediately after the resurrection of Soviet power in Estonia in September 1944. Members of the previo-us Estonian civil defence units, Estonian volunteers who had been fighting in Fin-land against the Soviet Union and those who had been conscripted into the German army took refuge in the forests. They were still hoping for an intervention by the allied forces from the West who would help re-establish independence lost in 1940. All in all, an estimated 16,000 persons made up the units of the Forest Brothers.

In order for visitors to understand the conditions in which the fighters lived, Mar-tin Andreller, curator at the museum has reconstructed a bunker. This is a copy of the Põrgupõhja (Bottom of Hell) bunker from southern Estonia. The bunkers were made out of trees and leaves, they were hidden, and they were extremely small and cold. Very often people believe that all bunkers were underground, however most were not. Underground bunkers were set up in more hilly areas, mainly in southern Estonia. The Põrgupõhja bunker was used as a command centre in order to coordinate activities.

Most of the items on display at the exhi-bition are publicly shown for the first time, one of these being an authentic oven.

Visitors to the museum can follow the everyday life of the fighters on film. Living in the forest meant an everyday fight for food, winter supplies, constant hiding from Soviet security units and worries about family members. All of these factors created harsh psychological conditions.

The Forest Brothers were crushed only in the 1950s but sporadic fights against Soviet security forces occurred later as well. Some of the items on display, full of bullet holes, give evidence of these fights! During the Soviet period the Forest Brothers were considered as bandits and murderers by the official propaganda. This can best be seen through insignia on some of the Russian semi-automatic TT-pistols talking about the fight against banditism. The backbone

of the Forest Brothers was broken with the forceful elimination of private farms and the destruction of the social structure in the countryside through collectivization; one result being the deportation of 20,000 persons to Siberia in 1949.

Approximately 2,000 Forest Brothers were killed; most were arrested and sen-tenced to prison camps for 10-25 years. Johannes Lillenurm is considered the last Forest Brother, he was found dead in an empty house in 1980 in Oru County in Western Estonia. Lillenurm had hidden from Soviet army conscription since 1941. The last Forest Brother to fall in combat was August Sabbe who was shot on Sep-tember 27, 1978.

Not only men fought as freedom figh-ters. Women, wives, mothers, and daugh-ters of the Forest Brothers risked their lives in providing the men with shelter, love, food and other supplies.

No help came from the West! Estoni-an independence was not restored until August 1991. Only then could the story about the Forest Brothers be told!

The exhibition “Metsavennad!” – The Forest Brothers is on display until the fall 2013. n

the museum of Occupations/ Okupatsioonide muuseumOpen daily except monday 10.00-18.00toompea 8, tallinn map code b1www.okupatsioon.ee

THE UNKNOWN WARWorld War ii ended in may 1945. in estonia,

active resistance against the Soviet occupation forces continued.

MuSEuM OF OCCuPATIONS Toompea 8, 10142 Tallinn

www.okupatsioon.eemuuseum@okupatsioon.ee

Tel +372 66 80 250Open Tue-Sun 10.00 - 18.00

Insight into the life in Estonia during three occupations (1940-1991)

Temporary exhibitions Forest Brothers

Olga Kistler-Ritso - the woman who founded the Museum

t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 324 nightlife t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 3

The Baltic Guide recommends:

24

locationmündi 2, tallinn Old town h2www.madmurphys.ee

every month, english ex-pat Mark Benn shares

his thoughts on where to spend your evening:

be it drinking, dancing, or going to a gig.

Go drinking at: Mad Murphy'sdespite its city centre location, mad

murphy's is a bar that still has enough charm for local and tourist alike.

When visiting a city, there is nothing nicer after a hard day of sightseeing than to sit back and enjoy a good beer. Sadly, most cities tend to put their worst possible pubs in full view of the tourist clientele, offering poor quality beers at exorbitant prices in uncomfortable surroundings.

Thankfully, Tallinn is dif-ferent. Situated just off Raeko-ja Plats (Town Hall Square) lies Mad Murphy's. Although this Irish pub's rather large size may suggest an impersonal experien-ce, visitors will certainly find a bar that meets their needs and more.

Any good Irish pub needs a decent drinks list and Mad Murphy's certainly has this.

Whether it be local lagers, foreign ales or the obligatory Guinness, you won't be disappointed. Also of note is the rather fine whisky selection that leaves no corner of the globe unturned in search of decent malt.

Besides the beer, Mad Murphy's has plenty to enjoy. Numerous large screen TV's show all the world's sports in one place, a dart board is there for those quieter moments and the weekends see a number of live acts performing traditional and not so traditional songs from the Emerald Isle. n

Tähelepanu! Tegemist on alkoholiga. Alkohol võib kahjustada teie tervist.

VANA TALLINN.EXCEPTIONAL.EXCEPTIONAL.EXCEPTIONAL.EXCEPTIONAL.EXCEPTIONAL.EXCEPTIONAL.EXCEPTIONAL.EXCEPTIONAL.EXCEPTIONAL.

Exquisite tastes start their journey from the most exotic places and fi nally arrive in Vana Tallinn.

www.vanatallinn.eu

t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 3 25

Tallinn has a vibrant nightlife. The city has many kinds of clubs and pubs, fancy or casual. There is something for everyone. Be sure to check out individual club websites for upcoming gigs.

Tallinn Nightlife

SportsClayhillsPikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1

Drink Baar Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2

Hell HuntPikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2

Mad Murphy’sMündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2

Nimeta BaarSuur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2

Live MusicCafé AmigoViru väljak 4, Tallinn B2

Chicago 1933Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3

ClazzVana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2

Guitar HuntPärnu mnt 19, Tallinn

Rock CaféTartu mnt 80D, Tallinn

Von KrahlTown H1

GayG-punktPärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

X-baarTatari 1, Tallinn

NightclubsArena 3Sadama 6, Tallinn A3

BonBonMere pst 6E, Tallinn A2

CatHouseViru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2

Club BailaSauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

Club HollywoodVana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2

Club MüntMürivahe 22, Tallinn Old Town I2

Club PrivéHarju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1

Club StudioSauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

PanoraamAhtri 10, Tallinn A2

ParlamentAhtri 10, Tallinn A2

ParteiRävala pst 8, Tallinn B2

PlubValli 1, Tallinn Old Town I3

TapperPärnu mnt 158G, Tallinn

TeaterVabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1

VabankHarju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1

VenusVana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3

t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 3

The Baltic Guide recommends:

nightlife

ODD HUGOafter a successful tallinn music Week, the folk rock sound of Odd

hugo is bringing the music industry boys to town.

25

Listen to:

One of the joys of Tallinn music week is the ability to either a) hear lots of stuff you haven't yet heard and b) to check out all of that stuff that people told you was good but you hadn't had the opportunity to hear for yourself. Odd Hugo cer-tainly fell into the later category and it was certainly pleasing to find that the hype wasn't mispla-ced.

Formed last year, the band have already gained a glowing repu-tation through a number of low key concerts and their excellent EP, These Grey Fields. Despite the bands brevity, they've alrea-dy started to gain attention from record company executives and journalists at home and abroad. And with a début album coming soon, they may well be on the verge of a breakthrough.

Delicate yet bold, the snappily dressed folk inspired five-piece manage to veer from mellow blue-seyness to energetic folk-pop in a second, their twin vocalists create a harmonious effect that's capti-

vating, and the combination of acoustic and brass instrumentati-on offers a sound that's uplifting, folksy and, at the same time, ear-nest and heart-breaking. If Tom Waites met up with Paul McCart-ney and decided to write a soundt-

rack for tragic French clowns on ukulele and trombone, it may well sound like this.

In other words, we await their début with anticipation. n

MilowThe Belgian music scene is a case of quality over quantity. Few bands have gained acclaim beyond its borders, but those that have, such as Deus, Soulwax and now Milow, tend to be excellent.

The DIY singer-songwriter arrived on the scene in 2006 with his début album “The Bigger Pic-ture.” Released on his own record label, the album went on to spend 110 weeks in the Belgian charts. Since then three more albums have been produced (all self-released) which have earmarked him as one of the brightest artists in Europe today.

However, Milow's big bre-akthrough came in 2009 with an acoustic cover version of 50 Cent's

Ayo Technology that gained air-time throughout Europe and top-ped the continents charts

Influenced by the likes of Ryan Adams and Bruce Springsteen, Milow's fine line in catchy and melodic acoustic pop has guaran-teed that live, he's an artist that’s assured to put joy in your heart and a smile on your face. It's no surprise that his reputation has started to grow in places as diverse as China and the States, and that he's gained a number of celebrity fans such as Jack Johnson, Kanye West and Perez Hilton.

Milow performs at Rock Café on 18th May. Tickets are €24 and can be purchased from Piletilevi. n

Lennart MeriTallinn AirportTartu AirportFlying is the fastest and most comfortable mode of travel. The airport is the best place to advertise.Promote your business with banners, back-lit windows, show-cases, posters, billboards, internet kiosks, car advertising and other personalised solutions, everywhere in the airport.

Queries: +372 605 8234

advertising@tll.aero

Meriton Grand Conference & Spa hotel - the newest conference and spa hotel in Tallinn.

Info and reservations: by phone

+ 372 66 77 111 or by email

reservations@meritonhotels.comwww.meritonhotels.com

Whether visiting for business or pleasure, you’ll be comfortable here at this Meriton hotel.

Pamper yourself in the Wellness Spa. Enjoy body treatments, massages, hair studio services.

An invigorating spa pool, a tranquil relaxation pool and saunas offer a truly unique experience.

Fitness center offers fully equipped gym, with a variety of group fitness classes.

Relax and enjoy delicious food in one of our many restaurants.

t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 3 27

must-see sights of Tallinn

IN THE OLD TOWN:n The watchtowers of Suur-Kloostri and Väike-Kloostri allow access to Nunna tower and from there, access to Sauna tower and Kuldjala tower.

n Town Hall Square (Raekoda). Northern europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

n built in 1246, St. Catherine’s Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in tallinn.

n Mustapeade House. built in 1399 for the brotherhood of blackheads and is tallinn’s only renaissance build-ing.

n The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of europe’s oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location in the town hall Square.

the name tallinn originates from the danish occupation (1219–).1285 tallinn joins the hanseatic league.1346 the danish sell tallinn to the german

Order. toompea was divided amongst princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town.

1561 tallinn goes to the Swedish.1721 the Russians conquer estonia and

tallinn.1918 estonia declares independence and

tallinn becomes its capital.1939–44 Russians and germans occupy

tallinn.1944 the Soviet army bombs tallinn in

march and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

1944–1991 tallinn becomes a Soviet capital

and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 moscow Olympics.

1991 tallinn becomes the estonian capital. in 1997, it is declared a uNeScO World heritage Site.

2011 tallinn is the european capital of culture along with turu. its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

a quick history of the city of Tallinn

sightseeing in tallinn

OUTSIDE OF THE OLD TOWN:

n Freedom Square (Vabaduse väl-jak). this square holds great symbolic importance and is located just south of the Old town. the pillar located at the edge of the square, consists of a large pedestal with the cross of liberty (Vabadusrist) placed on top. this monument reads: “estonian War of independence 1918–1920”. On its other side in a the Freedom bell (Vabaduse kell).

n Kadriorg Park. this area houses the Presidential Palace and the pal-ace of Peter the great, where today the Kumu art museum stands. there are plenty of other things to see as well, in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace head straight along the park trail to the Rusalka monument, located at the shore of the gulf of Finland.

n The Tallinn Song Festival Grounds (tallinna lauluväljak). built in 1960, this amphitheatre can hold more than 30 000 singers. these grounds played an important part of the process that led to the restoration of estonian independence, the initial phase in the Singing Revolution.

n The Ruins of St. Bridget’s Convent (Pirita Klooster). located near Pirita beach, this monastery was built in 1407 during the Swedish occupation. the convent was destroyed by ivan the terrible’s troops in 1577.

n The Tallinn Botanical Gardens. 4,500 varieties of plants and 123 hec-tares of greenhouses, and parks, the botanical gardens are an oasis in the summer and winter.

n Tallinn Zoo. approximately 90 hectares, this zoo houses many rare

species as well as many large mam-mals, including elephants, polar bears, chimpanzees and rhinoceros. located opposite the Rocca al mare Shopping centre.

n Kalamaja District (Fish house) is the area to visit if you want to get a taste for old tallinn. the wooden houses are typical of those built in the 1920s and 30s, during the first period of estonian independence. in recent years, this area has become

quite bohemian, with many artists, and young entrepreneurs taking up residence here.

n Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era pris-on life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

tallinn’s Old town was declared a uNeScO World heritage Site in 1997.

Town Hall Square

Town Hall Pharmacy

The Ruins of St. Bridget’s Convent

Toompea Castle

Patarei Prison

the old town of tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. the lower town was inhabited by hanse-atic traders and the upper town, or toompea was inhabited by nobility.the lower part of tallinn’s Old town can be seen from viewing plat-forms at toompea. the best view of toompea is from the tower of St. Olaf’s church.

n 1 Kohtu Platformthe Kohtu street platform offers the best view of the Old town and is a must-see. after a visit to the platform, the likelihood of getting lost in the labyrinth-like streets of the lower town is smaller. the impressive tower of the Niguliste church seems at arms length. the gracious spire of the medieval city hall has an Oriental touch and resembles that of the Pühavaimu church (church of holy Spirit). the red tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of tallinn. n 2 Patkul Platformthe Patkul platform shows both a view of St Olaf’s church, and part of the city wall. the church used to be even taller in medieval times and was actually the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angel. the harbour and the sea are lying just in front. the Patkul stairs take you more or less to the city cen-tre, and to the tallinn railway station. take a look to the left, and parallel with the platform you will see the pillars of Stenbock Palace, the seat of the estonian government. tallinn

tallinn with a viewn 3 Kiriku Platformthe platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. the area is more genuine, calm, and bohemian than around other plat-forms.

n 4 Best of both worldsclimb the stairs of the St Olaf church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of the toompea hill, and the upper town. n 5 Toompea Castle and Pikk Hermann Tower.the toompea tower (15th cen-tury) and the blue, black, and white estonian flag signify independence and freedom for estonians. the 46-meter tower is best seen if you walk downhill from lossi plats square along Falgi Street. Now, turn around, look up and the impressive wall of the medieval fortification with the Pikk hermann (tall hermann) will greet you!

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n useful Phrases

please ...........................................palunthank you ...................................aitäh, tänanexcuse me ..................................vabandagehello..............................................tere, tervistgood morning ..........................tere hommikustgood day.....................................tere päevastgood evening............................tere õhtustgood night .................................head öödgoodbye .....................................nägemist, head aegaall the best..................................kõike head, kõike paremathave a good trip .......................head reisibon appetite ............................. jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ............terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab?Do you have…? .................................. kas teil on? on teil?where is… ............................................ kus on…What is this?......................................... mis see on?What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab?How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate?How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb?not bad .................................................. pole viga!nice to see you/to meet you .......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtudait was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvudaWhat time is it? ................................... palju kell on?I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keeltDo you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt?/Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

1 January – New year’s day

24 February – independence day

Easter Good Friday1 May – Spring holiday;Pentecost;23 June – Victory day;24 June – midsummer’s day;20 August –

Re-independence day;24 December –

christmas eve;25 December –

christmas day;26 December –

boxing daythe work day preceding New year’s day, independence day, Victory day, and christmas day is reduced by three hours.

2012/2013 School HolidaysChristmas break 22 december, 2012 - 6 January, 2013Spring break 16-24 march, 2013Summer break 5 June - 31 august, 2013

Holidays

how to make a phone call in Estonia, from Estonia, to Estonia

n Using a mobile phone from Estonia to make a call to another country:

+ (country code)(phone number)

n When calling Estonia, enter country code +372, and then the phone number. For example +372 2 222 222.

n When calling from within Estonia, the country code may be omitted. For example, 777 7777.

WiFi NetworksThere are over 1000 wireless hotspots listed at www.wifi.ee. Estonia is known for its extensive network of free internet hotspots. For example, in Tallinn there are 185 and most of them are marked in green, meaning they can be used free of charge. The Viru Shopping Centre, as well as many hotels and bars also offer free connections. In some places, a password may be required to access the free network.

If you are in need of a constant internet connection, it may be best to purchase a pre-paid plan from a mobile ser-vice provider.

event ticketsTickets for events and concerts in Estonia are sold at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro.

Piletilevi (www.piletilevi.ee) On-line purchases require login. Sales outlets can be found

in shopping centres, and at Statoil petrol stations.Piletimaailm (www.piletimaailm.com) The website is avail-

able in Estonian only and sells theatre tickets. Sales outlets can be found in theatres and supermarkets.

Ticketpro (www.ticketpro.ee) Sales outlets can be found in post officesand at the Solaris Shopping Centre.

accepted in nearly 100 loca-tions, the tallinn card gives you free entrance and discounts.

Tallinn Card is available at: tallinn tourist information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from a and d terminals at the Port of tallinn, as well as in many tallinn hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.

TOuRIST INfORMaTION

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, tallinn

Tartu: Raekoda plats 1a, tartu

Pärnu: uus 4, Pärnu

Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva

Rakvere: laada 14, Rakvere

Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide

Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina

Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva

Saaremaa: tallinna 2, Kuressaare

Hiiumaa: hiiu 1, Kärdla

Haapsalu: Karja 15, haapsalu

Jõhvi: Rakvere 13a, Jõhvi

Otepää: tartu mnt 1, Otepää

Valga: Kesk 11, Valga

Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi

Võru: Jüri 12, Võru

Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

Picture: Kaarel Mikkin

AUSTRIA Vambola 6, 10114 tallinn+372 627 8740

BELGIUMRataskaevu 2-9, 10123 tallinn, +372 627 4100

BULGARIAa. lauteri 5e, 10114 tallinn+372 648 0388

CANADAtoom-Kooli 13, 10130 tallinn, +372 627 3311

CzECH REPUBLIClahe 4, 10150 tallinn+372 627 4400

DENMARKWismari 5, 10136 tallinn+372 630 6400

FINLANDKohtu 4, 10130 tallinn, +372 610 3200

FRANCEtoom-Kuninga 20, 10122 tallinn, +372 616 1600

GEORGIAViru väljak 2, 10111 tallinn+372 698 8590

GERMANYtoom-Kuninga 11, 15048 tallinn, +372 627 5303

GREECEPärnu mnt 12, 10148 tallinn, +372 640 3560

HUNGARYNarva mnt 122, 13628 tallinn, +372 605 1880

ICELANDtõnismägi 3a, 10119 tallinn, +372 640 8711

IRELANDVene 2/4, 10140 tallinn+372 681 1888

ITALYVene 2/4, 10140 tallinn+372 627 6160

LATVIAtõnismägi 10, 10119 tallinn, +372 627 7850

LITHUANIAuus 15, 10111 tallinn+372 631 4030

NETHERLANDRahukohtu 4, 10130 tallinntel. +372 680 5500

NORWAYharju 6, 10130 tallinn+372 627 1000

POLANDSuur-Karja 1, 10146 tallinn+372 627 8206

PORTUGALKohtu 10, 10130 tallinn +372 611 7468

RUSSIAPikk 19, 10123 tallinn+372 646 4175

SWEDENPikk 28, 10133 tallinn+372 640 5600

TURKEYNarva mnt. 30, 10152 tallinn, +372 627 2880

UKRAINElahe 6, 10150 tallinn+372 601 5815

UNITED KINGDOMWismari 6, 10136 tallinn+372 667 4700

UNITED STATES OF AMERICAKentmanni 20, 10116 tallinn+372 668 8100

EMBaSSIES

28

Tartu

TALLINN

www.visitestonia.com

useful information

n Medical Centres and Pharmacies24H Pharmacy tõnismägi 5, tallinntel. +372 644 2282

Mustamäe Medical Centreehitajate tee 27, tallinntel.+372 659 8318

Keskhaigla Medical CentreRavi 18, tallinntel. 1900, +372 622 7070

n Post OfficeTallinn Post OfficeNarva mnt 1, tallinnOpen m–F 8–20, Sa 9–17tel. +372 617 7037

n Tallinn Shopping Centres Hours of Operation

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102.Kristiine Keskus, endla 45.Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4.Sikupilli Keskus, tartu mnt 87.Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238.Mustikas keskus, a. h.tammsaare tee 116.Solaris, estonia pst 9.

Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4.Foorum, Narva mnt 5.Tallinna Kaubamaja, gonsiori 2.Stockmann, liivalaia 53.Lootsi Keskus, lootsi 8.Kochi Aidad, lootsi 10.

SadaMarket, Kai 5.Merekeskus, mere pst 10.Norde Centrum, lootsi 7.

n Currency Exchangedebit and credit cards are wide-ly accepted throughout estonia, especially ViSa and mastercard. american express is not as widely accepted.

currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. major estonian banks include: lhV, Swedbank, Seb, and Nordea. there is a wide network of atms in major cities and smaller towns. currency can also be exchanged at eurex, and tavid.

t h e b a l t i c g u i d e ™ m a y 2 0 1 3

-

Sadama

-

Map of Old Townis on the next page.

SEAPLANE HARBOUR

AIRPORT (2km)

KUMU

Tartu mnt

Bus Station

Linda Line terminal

Travel PortTerminal A, B, C

Train Station

Terminal D

Kadriorg park

22˚00'

58˚0

0' 58˚0

0'

57˚3

0'

28˚00'27˚00'26˚00'25˚00'24˚00'

27˚00'26˚00'25˚00'24˚00'

23˚00'

59˚0

0'58

˚30'

59˚3

0'59

˚00'

58˚3

0'

23˚00'22˚00'

22˚00'

59˚3

0'

RAPLAMAA JÄRVAMAA

PÄRNUMAASAAREMAA

HIIUMAA

VILJANDIMAA

JÕGEVAMAA

TARTUMAA

PÕLVAMAA

VÕRUMAA

VALGAMAA

LÄÄNE-VIRUMAA

IDA-VIRUMAA

HARJUMAA

LÄÄN

EMAA

MAAKONNAD

EESTI HALDUSJAOTUS

3020 50 km4010010

1:1 400 000

©REGIO 2008Riia 24, Tartu 51010tel +372 738 7300

©Regio 2008 KL-8-026

Riigipiir, kontrolljoon

Territoriaalmere piir

Tartu rahu piir

Maakonna piir Põhimaantee

Tugimaantee

Kõvakattega maantee

Kruuskattega maantee

Linn

Vallasisene linn

Alev

Alev-valdMaakonna keskusVILJANDI

PealinnTALLINN

Haldusjaotus on seisuga 01.04. 2007

KARKSI-NUIA

LIHULA

ABJA-PALUOJA

ANTSLA

PÜSSI

MUSTVEE

VÕHMA

SUURE-JAANI

MÕISAKÜLA

KALLASTE

Ust-Luga

OTEPÄÄ

KEILA

KIVIÕLI

TAPA

PÕLVA

PALDISKI

TÜRI JÕGEVA

ELVA

RAPLA

PÕLTSAMAA

SAUE

KUNDA

KÄRDLA

SINDI

NARVA-JÕESUU

LOKSA

KEHRA

TÕRVA

RÄPINA

KILINGI-NÕMME

TAMSALU

VILJANDI

SILLAMÄE

RAKVERE

VÕRU

MAARDU

KURESSAARE

VALGA

JÕHVI

HAAPSALU PAIDE

TARTU

NARVA

PÄRNU

KOHTLA-JÄRVETALLINN

Jüri

KuusaluHaljala

Kadrina

IisakuVäike-Maarja

Laiuse

Nõo

Võnnu

Värska

Misso

Tabivere

Lelle

Risti

Käina

OrissaareLeisi

Salme

AsteKärla

ParalepaTaebla

Palivere

Turba

Riisipere

Klooga

Keila-Joa

HarkuTabasalu

Saku

Kiisa

Kiili

LagediLoo

ViimsiHaabneeme

Kostivere

Raasiku

Aruküla

Prillimäe

Alu

Kuusiku

KeavaKehtna

Valtu

Käru

SärevereOisu

Väätsa

Juuru

Kaiu

Eidapere

Audru Sauga

Are

Paikuse

Võiste

Häädemeeste

TihemetsaHalliste

Õisu

KõpuRamsi

Viiratsi

Helme

Hummuli

TsirguliinaSõmerpalu

Õru Sangaste

Puka

Rannu

Rõngu

KurekülaTõravere

PuhjaUlila

Ilmatsalu

Tõrvandi

Kolga-JaaniOlustvere

Adavere

KamariPuurmani

Siimusti

Kuremaa

Aravete

KäraveteAmbla

Lehtse

Sääse

Kiltsi

Hulja

Lepna

Sõmeru

VinniPajusti

Roela

Laekvere

Tudu

Avinurme

Mäetaguse

Aseri

Sonda

ToilaVoka

Lohusuu

Torma

Sadala

AlatskiviKolkja

Varnja

Kõrveküla

Luunja

Roiu

AhjaVastse-Kuuste

Kambja

Mooste

Veriora

Kose

Varstu

Valjala

Virtsu

Hageri

Peetri

Võõpsu

Lähte

Palamuse

Kihelkonna

Vastseliina

Laura

Irboska

Seredka

Jamm

Spitsõno

Samolva

Pnevo

Pededze

Tori

Sinimäe

Assaku

Kose Ravila

Kose-Uuemõisa

Kanepi

Rakke

VäimelaParksepa

Tõstamaa

Kõrgessaare

Laagri

Ülenurme

Mehikoorma

Simuna

Viru-Jaagupi

Rõuge

Roosna-Alliku

Tudulinna

Vaida

Mustla

Võsu

Hagudi

Koeru

Vana-Antsla

KOHILA

JÄRVAKANDI

TOOTSI

LAVASSAARE

VÄNDRA

AEGVIIDU

PÄRNU-JAAGUPI

KOHTLA-NÕMME

MÄRJAMAA

JÄRVA-JAANI

Libatse

Koluvere

Linnamäe

Nõva Harju-Risti ÄäsmäeVasalemma

Valgu

Kiiu

Uhtna

Jäneda

Kuimetsa

KoigiVaimastvereTüri-Alliku

ImavereKabala

Vana-Võidu

Päri

Suislepa

Kaagjärve

Dikli

Matixi

Gaujena

Lasva

MammasteKrootuse

Melliste

Osula

Uulu

Vastemõisa

Sürgavere

Äksi Vara Koosa

Laeva

Tilsi

Himmaste

Kabli

Padise Alavere

Tsooru

Jõõpre

Selja

Haiba

Oru

Lehola

ValklaKolga

Tarbja

Papsaare

Linna

Esku

Võisiku

Põlgaste

Pisisaare

ArduVajangu

Vao

Lehtmetsa

Albu

PeriSihva

Saarde

Kolka

Orgita

Kudjape

Karksi

Keeni

Saverna

Lustivere

Vana-Vigala

Väike-Kamari

Kurkula ps

Vaindloo

Pärispea ps

Põõsaspea n

Kõpu ps

Kassari s

Tagamõisa ps

Nootamaa

Sõrv

e ps

Piirissaar

Käsmu psJuminda ps

Viimsi ps

Pakri ps

Hanko ps

Porkkala ps

Noarootsi ps

Tahkuna ps

Väike - Tütarsaar Suur - Tütarsaar

Prangli

NaissaarAegna

Pakri s-dOsmussaar

VORMSI

Abruka

M U H U

Manilaid

Kihnu

Ruhnu

Vilsandi

PETSERI

GDOV

SLANTSÕ

IVANGORODJAANILINN

AINAŽI

SALACGRÎVA

STAICELE

LIMBAŽILEMSALU

VOLMARI

RUHJAVÄIKE-SALATSI

ALOJA

MAZSALACA

VALMIERA

SMILTENE

VALKA

APE

ALÛKSNE

HOPA

OUDOVA

RÛJIENA

STRENÈI

HEINASTE

SALATSI

HANKO

EKENÄS

Hari kurk

Mardihansulaht

Voosi kurkSuur väi n

Väike väin

M a t s a l u l a h t

S o e l a v ä i n

P ä r n ul a h t

Kura kurk

L I I V I L A H T

S O O M E L A H T

Pe

ip

si

j

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v

N a r v a l a

ht

N a r v a l a

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Pi h

kv

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V Ä I N A ME

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Võrts järv

L Ä T I

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.

DISTANCESmajor estonian towns

HAAPSALU175 IKLA347 288 KOIDULA

84 148 335 KUIVASTU 158 221 408 73 KURESSAARE

56 228 403 121 106 KÄRDLA312 349 267 357 431 368 NARVA108 67 253 81 155 161 291 PÄRNU199 235 222 245 318 256 167 178 RAKVERE

9 180 356 90 163 47 321 114 208 ROHUKÜLA99 193 285 144 218 155 211 128 99 108 TALLINN

249 209 100 255 328 305 178 174 123 258 186 TARTU204 131 173 177 250 257 235 96 149 210 159 78 VILJANDI300 227 62 274 347 353 248 192 194 306 253 71 124 VÕRU

22˚00'

58˚0

0' 58˚0

0'

57˚3

0'

28˚00'27˚00'26˚00'25˚00'24˚00'

27˚00'26˚00'25˚00'24˚00'

23˚00'

59˚0

0'58

˚30'

59˚3

0'59

˚00'

58˚3

0'

23˚00'22˚00'

22˚00'

59˚3

0'

RAPLAMAA JÄRVAMAA

PÄRNUMAASAAREMAA

HIIUMAA

VILJANDIMAA

JÕGEVAMAA

TARTUMAA

PÕLVAMAA

VÕRUMAA

VALGAMAA

LÄÄNE-VIRUMAA

IDA-VIRUMAA

HARJUMAA

LÄÄN

EMAA

MAAKONNAD

EESTI HALDUSJAOTUS

3020 50 km4010010

1:1 400 000

©REGIO 2008Riia 24, Tartu 51010tel +372 738 7300

©Regio 2008 KL-8-026

Riigipiir, kontrolljoon

Territoriaalmere piir

Tartu rahu piir

Maakonna piir Põhimaantee

Tugimaantee

Kõvakattega maantee

Kruuskattega maantee

Linn

Vallasisene linn

Alev

Alev-valdMaakonna keskusVILJANDI

PealinnTALLINN

Haldusjaotus on seisuga 01.04. 2007

KARKSI-NUIA

LIHULA

ABJA-PALUOJA

ANTSLA

PÜSSI

MUSTVEE

VÕHMA

SUURE-JAANI

MÕISAKÜLA

KALLASTE

Ust-Luga

OTEPÄÄ

KEILA

KIVIÕLI

TAPA

PÕLVA

PALDISKI

TÜRI JÕGEVA

ELVA

RAPLA

PÕLTSAMAA

SAUE

KUNDA

KÄRDLA

SINDI

NARVA-JÕESUU

LOKSA

KEHRA

TÕRVA

RÄPINA

KILINGI-NÕMME

TAMSALU

VILJANDI

SILLAMÄE

RAKVERE

VÕRU

MAARDU

KURESSAARE

VALGA

JÕHVI

HAAPSALU PAIDE

TARTU

NARVA

PÄRNU

KOHTLA-JÄRVETALLINN

Jüri

KuusaluHaljala

Kadrina

IisakuVäike-Maarja

Laiuse

Nõo

Võnnu

Värska

Misso

Tabivere

Lelle

Risti

Käina

OrissaareLeisi

Salme

AsteKärla

ParalepaTaebla

Palivere

Turba

Riisipere

Klooga

Keila-Joa

HarkuTabasalu

Saku

Kiisa

Kiili

LagediLoo

ViimsiHaabneeme

Kostivere

Raasiku

Aruküla

Prillimäe

Alu

Kuusiku

KeavaKehtna

Valtu

Käru

SärevereOisu

Väätsa

Juuru

Kaiu

Eidapere

Audru Sauga

Are

Paikuse

Võiste

Häädemeeste

TihemetsaHalliste

Õisu

KõpuRamsi

Viiratsi

Helme

Hummuli

TsirguliinaSõmerpalu

Õru Sangaste

Puka

Rannu

Rõngu

KurekülaTõravere

PuhjaUlila

Ilmatsalu

Tõrvandi

Kolga-JaaniOlustvere

Adavere

KamariPuurmani

Siimusti

Kuremaa

Aravete

KäraveteAmbla

Lehtse

Sääse

Kiltsi

Hulja

Lepna

Sõmeru

VinniPajusti

Roela

Laekvere

Tudu

Avinurme

Mäetaguse

Aseri

Sonda

ToilaVoka

Lohusuu

Torma

Sadala

AlatskiviKolkja

Varnja

Kõrveküla

Luunja

Roiu

AhjaVastse-Kuuste

Kambja

Mooste

Veriora

Kose

Varstu

Valjala

Virtsu

Hageri

Peetri

Võõpsu

Lähte

Palamuse

Kihelkonna

Vastseliina

Laura

Irboska

Seredka

Jamm

Spitsõno

Samolva

Pnevo

Pededze

Tori

Sinimäe

Assaku

Kose Ravila

Kose-Uuemõisa

Kanepi

Rakke

VäimelaParksepa

Tõstamaa

Kõrgessaare

Laagri

Ülenurme

Mehikoorma

Simuna

Viru-Jaagupi

Rõuge

Roosna-Alliku

Tudulinna

Vaida

Mustla

Võsu

Hagudi

Koeru

Vana-Antsla

KOHILA

JÄRVAKANDI

TOOTSI

LAVASSAARE

VÄNDRA

AEGVIIDU

PÄRNU-JAAGUPI

KOHTLA-NÕMME

MÄRJAMAA

JÄRVA-JAANI

Libatse

Koluvere

Linnamäe

Nõva Harju-Risti ÄäsmäeVasalemma

Valgu

Kiiu

Uhtna

Jäneda

Kuimetsa

KoigiVaimastvereTüri-Alliku

ImavereKabala

Vana-Võidu

Päri

Suislepa

Kaagjärve

Dikli

Matixi

Gaujena

Lasva

MammasteKrootuse

Melliste

Osula

Uulu

Vastemõisa

Sürgavere

Äksi Vara Koosa

Laeva

Tilsi

Himmaste

Kabli

Padise Alavere

Tsooru

Jõõpre

Selja

Haiba

Oru

Lehola

ValklaKolga

Tarbja

Papsaare

Linna

Esku

Võisiku

Põlgaste

Pisisaare

ArduVajangu

Vao

Lehtmetsa

Albu

PeriSihva

Saarde

Kolka

Orgita

Kudjape

Karksi

Keeni

Saverna

Lustivere

Vana-Vigala

Väike-Kamari

Kurkula ps

Vaindloo

Pärispea ps

Põõsaspea n

Kõpu ps

Kassari s

Tagamõisa ps

Nootamaa

Sõrv

e ps

Piirissaar

Käsmu psJuminda ps

Viimsi ps

Pakri ps

Hanko ps

Porkkala ps

Noarootsi ps

Tahkuna ps

Väike - Tütarsaar Suur - Tütarsaar

Prangli

NaissaarAegna

Pakri s-dOsmussaar

VORMSI

Abruka

M U H U

Manilaid

Kihnu

Ruhnu

Vilsandi

PETSERI

GDOV

SLANTSÕ

IVANGORODJAANILINN

AINAŽI

SALACGRÎVA

STAICELE

LIMBAŽILEMSALU

VOLMARI

RUHJAVÄIKE-SALATSI

ALOJA

MAZSALACA

VALMIERA

SMILTENE

VALKA

APE

ALÛKSNE

HOPA

OUDOVA

RÛJIENA

STRENÈI

HEINASTE

SALATSI

HANKO

EKENÄS

Hari kurk

Mardihansulaht

Voosi kurkSuur väi n

Väike väin

M a t s a l u l a h t

S o e l a v ä i n

P ä r n ul a h t

Kura kurk

L I I V I L A H T

S O O M E L A H T

Pe

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Pi h

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MAP OF ESTONIA

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Papin

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