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Food sightseeingFood sightseeing

Vihula ManorVihula Manor

Live music in TallinnLive music in Tallinn

ENGLISH EDITION/SEPTEMBER 2012

September eventsSeptember events

DESIGN DESIGN IN ESTONIAIN ESTONIA

Lennart Meri

Tallinn Airport

Tartu Airport

Flying is the fastest and most comfortable mode of travel. The airport is the best place to advertise.Promote your business with banners, back-lit windows, show-cases, posters, billboards, internet kiosks, car advertising and other personalised solutions, everywhere in the airport.

Queries: +372 605 8234

advertising@tll.aero

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ENGLISH EDITION/MAY 2012

Visit Estonia’s

Northeast Coast

Interview: Historian

Andres Toode

Tallinn’s TV Tower

Restaurant

Dining and Music

Pikk St. Shopping Guide

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Jazzkaar Festival

Visit Tartu

Interview: Louis Zezeran of Comedy Estonia

Shopping: Certified Estonian

ENGLISH EDITION/APRIL 2012

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RUSSIANRESTAURANTRUSSIAN

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Mon-Thu 12.00-22.00, Fri-Sat 12.00-24.00 +372 6 650 928

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Restaurant Le Chateau brings French cuisine to Tallinn!

Bring this ad with you and enjoy a

complimentary

GLASS OF LIQUEUR!

Enjoy Le Chateau's cozy and charming atmosphere while you taste the 17th Century-inspired French menu.Come experience the royal dining traditions of the Sun King Louis XIV!

restoran@chateau.ee www.chateau.ee

BEST VENUES IN TALLINN! WELCOME! FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 47

HEALTHYFRESHFAST

OPEN MON-THU 11-23, FRi-SUN 12-24

Foorum Center, Hobujaama 10, TallinnNear the harbour tfn. +372 6 829 010

Solaris Center, Estonia pst. 9, TallinnNear the National Opera Theatre tfn. +372 6 285 999

& PIZZA

from

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VISIT VAPIANO IN HELSINKI, MIKONKATU 15!

TALLINN HELSINKI STOCKHOLM LONDON WIEN AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG NEW YORK

25

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2 5editorial

S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2

Design lines

The summer

may be coo-

ling off but

autumn is in full swing with line up of great events.

This month The Baltic Guide has decided to focus

on Estonian design in honour of the upcoming

Design Night Festival. From September 20-23 both

Tallinn and Tartu will be celebrating Estonian design.

The theme of the 7th annual festival is improving

the living environment, in particular where design

has substantial results. Seminars, workshops, and

competitions are all part of the program to to pro-

mote discussions about design in the fashion and

furniture industry.

Oskar Metsavaht, Per Mollerup, Tapio Anttila,

Adam von Haffner, and Pekka Timmonen, along

with other famous designers from Denmark and

England will present. Learn about environmental

accessibility, contemporary Russian poster design,

and what’s new in the field of product design. The

Estonian Design Awards Gala will be held in the

newly renovated Seaplane Harbour. Festival centres

will be located in the Estonian Design House and

the Rotermann Quarter. And for the first time a festi-

val will take place in Tartu. The events will be held in

the Tartu Centre for Creative Industries.

It’s truly fantastic to see the spirit of Estonia

come alive in a great event such as this. Read more

about the programme at www.disainioo.ee. And in

this month’s issue familiarise yourself with design

in Estonia We tell you about the Design Museum

and Architecture Museum in Tallinn. We’ve got a

few hints for some of the best design shopping in

Tallinn; and as always a great listing of what’s going

on in Estonia.

Happy Travels!

Kristina Lupp

Editor-in-chief

5 editorial 6-7 TOP 5, sights 8 day tripping 10 events 11 Vihula Manor, Food Sightseeing 12 culture13 beauty 16 shopping 18 design 20 music 21 what's happening

person

restaurants14-15

Contact Information

Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn,

tel +372 611 77 60

e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee

Marketing Manager: Kirli Lembinen

tel +372 58 50 2472

The Baltic GuideManaging Director:

Jane Konga

Editor-in-Chief:

Kristina Lupp

kristina@balticguide.ee

Design: Kristi Möls

Photography:

Andrei Chertkov

Tiit LiivIndustrial designer at

Artec Industrial OÜ

19

This is a sentence echoing in the minds of many Estonian Air passengers. The airline positions itself as a transit carrier with Tallinn as its hub. Take a look at the map and you will find that Tal-linn is a point of connection for Scandinavia and Finland, Russia, Ukraine, Georgia and many other destinations in Western Europe.

The proof of this airline’s success as a transit carrier is in the passenger numbers. In the first half of 2011 transit passengers accounted for 2-3 % of total passenger numbers, now they make up 30-40% of total passenger volumes. Transit pas-sengers from Finland for example are flying with Estonian Air to destinations in Europe and Russia.

Transit traffic supports the development of the Estonian Air network from Tallinn, as the Estonian market is small and the number of air travellers needs to be increased. The airline’s aim is to reach economies of scale to allow for a sustainable profit.

The transit strategy has taken into account fac-tors like the smaller, yet state of the art Embraer and Canadair planes, more frequent flights to existing destinations, new destinations, convenient on-line booking and an excellent service level. If everything goes according to the plan, more Embraer planes will be added to the fleet in 2013-2014 and more possible destinations to follow.

Some facts:- Estonian Air was recently appointed the 5th Best North European airline by prestigious Skytrax.- Estonian Air has firm orders on 4 additional environmentally friendly Embraer aircraft; this means a standardization of the fleet with con siderable cost cuttings. All in all, the Estonian Air fleet will consist of 8 Embraer (E170, E175 E190) aircraft.- Economy class passengers can pre-order meals at a nominal cost. Business class passengers are offered complimentary meals prepared by the best chefs in Estonia.- Air France is the latest code-share partner with Estonian Air in addition to KLM, Brussels Airlines, SAS, Aerosvit, and Aeroflot. - In the first seven months of 2012 Estonian Air carried a total of 515,721 passengers. The total number of passengers on regular flights increased 52.5%, compared to the same period last year.- From August 2012, France-based cargo com pany Concorde Aviation will provide Estonian Air cargo services that will greatly improve the airlines’ potential for air freight.

Contents

Your Comments■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: balticguide@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel,

Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel,

Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel,

Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa

Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton

Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic

Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel,

Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson

Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park

Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos

Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni

Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel,

Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von

Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss

Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market,

Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information,

Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus

Lootsi keskus RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona,

Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O 'Malleys, Odessa

Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg

Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend

Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium

Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel,

Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas

Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City

Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club,

Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu

Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa

Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information,

Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa

Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information,

Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist

Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium,

Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN

EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air

Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm

Distribution Network

Emmanuel Wille : A top Belgian chef in Tallinn

Neikid: simple SpanishArtemis. Greek comfort

h d f S f

Will all transit passengers please proceed to gate…

Model: Grete Kõrsmaa (Beatrice

MASS MODELNET)

Photo: Andrei Chertkov

Make-up: Kristi Petolai

Style: Ženja Fokin

Clothes: Reserved, FANKADELIK

news6 T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2

01 When one hears the sound of guitars....The Viljandi Guitar Festival from September 20 - 22 brings musicians from all over the world to this small town.  The headliners are Teemu Viinikainen Trio from Finland, Rune Mandelid from Norway and Lupa Santiago from Brazil. Many Estonian gui-tarists will also be performing at the festival. 02 It all starts with the trials. Estonian Football Championship trial games begin in full swing on September 7th with the Estonia-Romania match at the A. Le Coq arena. On October 12, Estonia faces Hungary. Tickets can be purchased at Piletilevi kiosks.

OPEN EVERYDAY 12–24 // RAEKOJA PLATS 13, TALLINN // TEL. +372 6 444 367, +372 5 163 72333

www.maharaja.ee

BELLY DANCING Fri, Sat 20-21

September TOP 5

Master musicians

In September don’t miss an evening of songs with Raimond Valgre and Georg Ots.

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS CONCERT ORGANIZER

The songs of Georg Ots and Raimond

Valgre have certainly left their mark on the music world. Some of their most famous songs include Saaremaa valss (Saaremaa Waltz), Maailm samme täis (The World Full of Steps), Muinaslugu muusikas (A Little Story in the Music), and Sinilind (Bluebird).

 Their songs will be performed in a joint concert by three of today's well-known artists: Marko Matvere, Mart Sander and Jassi Zahharov. Anecdotes of the lives of Raimond Valgre and Georg Ots will be told between songs to make this a truly memorable evening.

 An ensemble conducted by Mart San-der will accompany the singers■

, Tallinn

-30%with this coupon!

Location

An Evening of the Songs of Georg Ots and Raymond Valgre September 18 - 19 in Tallinn - Vene Kultuurikeskus (Russian Cultural Centre)September 20 in Tartu - Vanemuise KontserdimajaSeptember 22 in Pärnu – Pärnu Kontserdimaja

This concert will be an evening to remember.

The Viljandi Guitar Festival brings international musicians together.

Get into Estonian football this fall.

03 Retro discoDance to the disco legends Bad Boys Blue on September 14th at Club Panoraam in Tallinn. Tickets can be purchased in advance from Piletilevi kiosks.  04 Galloping starsThe tenth annual International Horse Show will take place in Tallinn from October 5-7th at the Saku Arena. See some of Europe’s top riders and horses compete in an event that is fun for both children and adults.

 05 The Golden MaskThe Golden Mask theatre festival has become a Tallinn autumn tradition. From October 2-9th see well-known Russian theatre performances in Tallinn including Three Sisters by Anton Chekhov.

Photo: Lembit Peegel

Free shot of liqueur

when you order a schnitzel. New location:

Rüütli 28/30, Old Town

THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD

sights 7T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2

INDIAN RESTAURANT

Open Everyday 11-23Mündi 4 / Pikk 14 (Old Town)Irish coffee 4 Vodka 2€

Vana-Tallinn 2 Beer 2.50€

House Wine 2.90 Appetisers 2€

Grilled Salmon 9.90 Grilled Duck Fillet 11€

Pepper Steak 11 South Indian chicken curry 7€

Just 25 metres from Town Hall Square

Town Hall Square

Mündi

KingaVoorimehe

Dunkri

Kul

lass

epaRaekoja

Vanaturu

Pikk

kael Viru

Vene

Apteegi

Saiakang

Come and enjoy exotic Kerala, Thai and European dishes!

The restaurant's owner is from Kerala in Southern India.Excellent pricesThe many

architectural faces of Tallinn

City planning is a reflection of ideologies and rulers from various periods.

Welcome!

Open everyday 10-24, Raekoja plats 13,

Old Town, Tallinntel +372 644 1983

ESTONIAN CUISINE IN TALLINN'S OLD TOWN SQUARE

(At Liisu's)

Traditional Estonian food in a homey setting

..

Liisu Juures

News:Breakfast served 10–12 with free vodka shot

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ESTONIA

SOLARIS

TALLINNA REAALKOOL

Estonia pst

Tallinn's medieval Old Town is a sight to behold.

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Tallinn is primarily associated with the Hanseatic period, but look around and you will find an incredible mix of styles, some beautiful, some a little more eclectic. If you want a comprehensive and structured view, visit the Museum of Estonian Architecture. But better yet, take a walk or a bus to see the buildings up close.

■ The Old TownMany visitors only see the jewels of the Old Town that are dominated by medieval mas-ter pieces such as the City Hall, impressive churches, and the city wall with its towers. The most magnificent and symbolic buil-ding is the Toompea Castle and the Pikk Hermann tower. There are also many other interesting buildings such as the classic style parliament building at Toompea or the Art Nouveau Russian Embassy on Pikk Street. One might wonder why some areas in the Old town are empty; this is because Tallinn was heavily destroyed by Soviet air raids in 1944.

■ Central TallinnOutside of the old Town, the Tallinn central business district is dominated by Estonian functionalism from the 1930s – the golden age of Estonian architecture. Some good examples can be seen around the Free-dom Square/Vabaduse väljak and along Pärnu road. Slightly older are two impor-tant national symbols: the Estonia Opera Theatre and Concert Hall and the Art Nouveau style Drama Theatre. In central Tallinn there are numerous monumental buildings from the Stalinist era as well.

■ NõmmeNõmme gives a glimpse of the new and modern Estonia that emerged before WWII. It is an era full of optimism and modernism that is reflected in the strict functionalist villas surrounded by pine trees.

■ Kadriorg and KalamajaKadriorg is known for its splendid baroque castle built by Peter the Great for his wife Catherine. Take a look at the wonderful wooden apartment houses and villas in the surrounding streets. Most have been carefully renovated and painted in bright colours. Kalamaja is another gem, though poorer than Kadriorg, it is still pretty run down but the houses are slowly being reno-vated.

■ Mustamäe and LasnamäeMustamäe and Lasnamäe represent Soviet ideology – the step to communism where the family had been abolished and replaced by the collective, thus private kitchens were no longer needed. Con-temporary Western architects and city planning influenced Mustamäe, from the 1960s. Today buildings are being given a constant face-lift. Lasnamäe from the 1970s- and 80s seems to have been built just to house the tens of thousands of dwellers who were relocated or moved to Estonia from all parts of the then Soviet Union.

■ The Harbour AreaOne might wonder why there is hardly any waterfront in a seaside town like Tal-linn. The explanation is simple. In Soviet times citizens were not allowed to go to the sea. Today the waterfront is open and attractive for the city as well as real estate developers who have to agree on its future. ■

Kadriorg is beautiful any time of year.

THE ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM

ANNIVERSARY SEASON

76 historical buildings, farm animals, exhibitions, Estonian national food at the inn

Open daily 10-20. Buses: 21 and 21 B, leaving from the Balti train station. City Tour blue line leaving from Viru Square

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. Ph. +372 654 9100, www.evm.ee.

Estonian Bread Day and Autumn Fair September 16thOpen-air exhibit "Sayings about bread" in the museum farms

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 28 day tripping

Day 1 in TallinnTake a walk through Tallinn’s Old Town, and up the hill to Toompea. Toompea, located on the upper part of the Old Town has great views over the city and the Gulf of Finland. In the lower part of the centre, wander through narrow streets and get a true feeling for this medie-val northern town.

Shopping: For some unique souvenirs, visit Oma Asi (Saiakang 4, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H2). Here you’ll find distinctive handicrafts including knitwear and jewellery. Nu Nordik (Vabaduse väljak 8, Tallinn Old Town Map Code J1) has modern Estonian designs, including clothing, jewellery and home décor items. A. Galerii (Hobusepea 2, Tallinn Old Town Map Code G2) features mostly modern Estonian jewellery.

Church: Visit the Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral (Lossi plats, Tallinn Map Code B1). Built between 1894-1900, this Orthodox cathedral was part of the Russification of the Baltic provinces in the last quarter of the 19th century.

Lunch: Enjoy a quick medieval lunch at the Town Hall (Reakoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H1). Elk soup and traditional ale are served in earthenware bowls and cups. Stuffed pastries (pirukad) are baked throughout the day, and are worth the wait, should they run out. Too nice to sit inside? As the weather warms up, patios pop up all over the Town Hall Square, a great place to people-watch.

Museum: The Estonian History Museum in the Great Guild Hall (Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town Map Code G2) was recently renovated in 2011. This museum has wonderful exhibits to help you get acquainted with Estonia’s past. Free entry on the last Thursday of every month.

Dinner: Get a taste of the Russian side of Estonia with a meal at Troika (Raekoja plats 15, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H1). Try a selection of Russian dumplings (pelmeenid), roasted eel, or bear meat stew. Then wash it all down with a shot of vodka.

Day 2 in Tallinn:Take a walk, or rather hop on the City Tour bus to see greater Tallinn. Get off at Kadriorg Park (Tallinn Map Code A4), and enjoy a stroll through the gardens. Or stay on the bus and visit

the ruins of the Pirita Convent (Merivälja tee 18).

Museum: Visit the KUMU Art Museum (Weizenbergi 34 / Valge 1 Tallinn Map Code B4) in Kadriorg. Admire Estonian art from the begin-ning of the 18th century to present. The gallery also has a café with a nice view over the park.

Lunch: Get a taste for modern inspired Estonian and Russian food at Kohvik Moon (Võrgu 3, Tallinn Map Code A2). Try the Siberian dump-lings in mushroom stock, or the herring. Bookings recommended.

Church: Experience another great view over the city from the tower of the Oleviste Church (Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town Map Code F2). Once the tallest structure in Northern Europe, this church was dedicated to the 11th century Norwegian King Olaf II. During the Soviet period, it worked as a surveillance centre for the KGB.

Dinner: Restaurant Ö (Mere pst 6E, Tallinn Map Code B2) serves modern Estonian food, using fine local ingredients and experimenting with traditional flavours. Try the six-course degustation menu to get a taste of what modern Estonian cuisine is all about.

Evening Entertainment: Take in a performance at the Estonian National Opera and the Estonia Concert Hall (Estonia pst 4, Tallinn Map Code B2). Enjoy opera, ballet, or a concert in this theatre founded at the beginning of the 20th century. For tickets and information: www.opera.ee; www.concert.ee

Tartu

TALLINN

Day Trip from Tallinn:RAKVERE: is located close to Lahemaa National Park, a favourite place for hiking in the summer. About 100km east of Tallinn, Rakvere is the fifth largest city in Estonia.

Rakvere Castle Ruins: This is the city’s main attraction. Located on the hill just outside of the city centre, the ruins of this medieval castle will entertain both adults and children. There are informative displays on the castle’s history, as well as weapons history. Try your hand at shooting a bow and arrow, or take a tour of the torture chamber.

Town Hall Square: Built in 2004, this is probably Estonia’s most modern town hall square.

Lutheran Church of the Holy Trinity: (Pikk 19, Rakvere) A medieval church built in the 17th century with a strangely tall and slim spire.

Rakvere Town Citizen’s Home Museum: (Pikk 50) Get a feel for life in Estonia at the end of the 19th century. This museum showcases how people lived in Rakvere at the time.

Dining: Try the Art Café (Lai 13), for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. It has a cosy, yet modern interior. Taste their selection of savoury pancakes.

Not sure what to do while you’re in Estonia? Too much to see, too little time? The Baltic Guide is here to help. We’ve put together a few suggestions for you.

Estonia: Quick Trips

1 Day in Tartu:From Tallinn, about 180km southeast, is the university town of Tartu. Daily connections by train or bus from Tallinn are con-venient and inexpensive. (For more information, timetables and ticket prices visit: www.bussireisid.ee; www.edel.ee) Visitor information: www.visittartu.comSee page 20 for Tartu city map.

Take a walk through Tartu’s Old Town. Visit the Town Hall Square to see good examples of neoclassical and late-baro-que architecture. The fountain in the middle of the square in front of the Town Hall features a young couple kissing under an umbrella in the rain. About a block from the square is the main building for Tartu University (Ülikooli tnv 18, Tartu). A little further on are the Botanical Gardens (Lai 40, Tartu) that have an impressive collection of over 6500 plant species, many of which are housed in a giant greenhouse.

Museum: Visit the Estonian National Museum (Kuperjanovi 9, Tartu). This museum displays temporary and permanent exhibits about Estonian history and culture. It is a wonderful place to become acquainted with Estonian customs and life in Estonia. Or, for something a little different, visit the Toy Museum (Lutsu 8, Tartu). Fun for both children and adults, this museum showcases everything from traditional Finno-Ugric toys, to nostalgic toys from the Soviet era.

Lunch: Enjoy a quiet lunch at the Eduard Wilde Café (Vallikraavi 4, Tartu). This restaurant has a large patio open in the summertime. Their long menu has everything from curries to schnitzels, Caesar salad to crispy pork salad.

Church: Founded in 1330, the Jaani Church (Jaani 5, Tartu) has been rebuilt many times. Despite being ruined by Soviet bom-bing in 1944, its restoration reflects the original structure. Enjoy 15 minutes of music every Tuesday and Friday at 12.15pm.

Dinner: Built in a former gunpowder cellar, the Püssirohukelder (Lossi 28, Tartu) is a unique place to come for good hearty food. Popular among students, this pub often features live music.

Evening entertainment: Enjoy everything from ballet, opera, musicals, and children’s plays at the Tartu Vanemuine Theatre (Vanemuise 6, Tartu). For more information and tickets visit www.vanemuine.ee)

Tallinn

Rakvere

Tartu

The 'kissing fountain' is located in Tartu's Town Hall Square.

Photo: Toomas Tuul

Photo: Toomas Tuul

Photo: Andrei Chertkov

Unique handicrafts for sale. Traditional production mixed with modern style. True artists, natural textiles, wood, metal, and ceramics. Product sales and exhibitions in Handicraft Association of Estonia stores.

Stores:

www.folkart.ee

HANDICRAFT ASSOCIATION OF ESTONIA

Fairs in Tallinn:

Eesti Käsitöö Maja (Estonian Handicraft House), Pikk 22. Tel. +372 6 314 076Platsiveere Meistrid (Platsiveera Masters), Pikk 15. Tel. +372 6 313 393Viru Keskus (Viru Shopping Centre), Viru väljak 4/6. Tel. +372 6 101 332

St. Martin’s Fair - Mardilaat, Saku Suurhall 8–11 November

Bus hire with driver

Transfers

info@vilandert.ee

www.vilandert.ee

Tel: +372 513 98 45

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T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 210 events

to activa-d tangible nars and a renowned nian roots

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omote and adventure,

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A night at the opera

September is the beginning of a new season for concert halls and theatres.

The National Opera Estonia will present a rather traditional pro-gram in the upcoming season with popular pieces such as Car-men, Rosalinde, Csardasfürstin, Manon Lescaut, and Man of La Mancha. One of the highlights of this season will be the ballet “Modigliani – The Cursed Artist“ on September 16, choreographed by world famous Estonian dancer Toomas Edur and music by Tauno Aints. It is an exciting story about the stormy life of Amedeo Modi-

gliani (1884–1920), one of the most famous bohemian artists of the 20th century and deals with elements of love, alcohol, and drugs.

The Concert Hall at the Estonia Theatre will open its season with Stabat Mater by Antonin Dvorcak played by the Tartu Vanemuine Symphony Orchestra.

Estonia Theatre, Estonia pst, Tallinn. www.opera.ee,www.concert.ee ■

Photo: Harri Rospu

Estonian Theatre Festival

DRAAMA 2012 and the Baltic

Theatre Festival, September 3-9

This year’s Estonian Theatre Festival DRAAMA 2012 in Tartu revolves around the Actor: the Actor as a creator, a contributor and focal point of theatre. Eight plays representing different Esto-nian theatres can be enjoyed. The festival is organised in collabo-ration with the Baltic Theatre Festival.

Simultaneous translation into English will be available for the main plays.

www.draama.ee.

Tartu, the second largest city in Estonia is located 190 km south east of Tallinn and can be reached by air via Helsinki or Tallinn, as well as by bus or train. ■

Photo: Siim Vahur

The Soviet Sixties

The exhibition The Golden Six-ties at the Tallinn City Museum gives a glimpse of life in Soviet Estonia during a period referred to as the Khrushchev Thaw. The Stalinist terror was gone, living standards had improved, and western influences were remar-kable in the cultural sphere. It all came to an end with the Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia in 1968 and the Brezhnev era.

Tallinn City Museum/Tallin-na Linnamuuseum, Vene 17, Tal-linn. ■

Tallinn's Wooden Buildings,

Until September 15

Historical housing

Tallinn’s wooden architecture is unique and in constant chan-ge. Areas once considered as run down and slums are now highly valued living environments with architectural finesse. The exhi-bition covers Tallinn’s wooden architecture and offers a glimpse into the historic and contempora-ry wooden architecture of the city.

The Museum of Estonian Architecture, Ahtri 2, Tallinn

www.arhitektruurimuuseum.ee ■

Tartu Bicycle Marathon,

September 16

The Tartu bicycle marathon covers two distances, 40 or 89 kilometres. Since it is a fami-ly event, kids can also take part in races from 500 meters to 5.2 kilometres, all depending on their age. Children who participate will receive a medal and certificate!

Grown ups, either professio-nals or amateurs, start at the Teh-vandi Sports Stadium in Otepää and hopefully reach the end at the Tartu County Sports Centre in Elva.

The bicycle marathon is part of the SEB sponsored Tartu Marat-hon which includes cross country skiing as well as running. A 42 km running marathon will take place in Tartu on October 6.

www.tartumaraton.ee ■

Photo: Ardo Säks

Man Hunt Estonia 2012, September 16

Man Hunt Estonia will select the nicest athletic male models from Estonia for the Manhunt Inter-national 2012 World Festival in

Bangkok on November 10, 2012.In order to qualify, candidates

have to be 20-35 years of age, 180-190cm, and in good physical shape.

Nokia Concert Hall, www.nordicdreamboys.com ■

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2 11sightseeing

Peke Eloranta tells us about Luscher & Matiesen's fascinating history.

Culinary History

Learning about Tallinn’s history and enjoying a great meal is what Food

Sightseeing Estonia is all about.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS KRISTINA LUPP

If you are like many modern day globetrotters, the average tourist group tour is not your thing. You would much rather wan-der around a new place on your own, while secretly trying to hide your guide book so as not to be spotted as a non-local. Or better yet, you’d like to meet some locals who could tell you what the locals do, and better yet, where they go to eat.

This is what Food Sightseeing Estonia is all about. Visitors get to tour the city with a local guide and stop at a few restaurants and cafés along the way, all while learning about Tallinn’s cultural and culi-nary history. Paul Toots has been running the tours since March after learning about their popu-larity in the US. He decided to try

it for himself over here in Estonia. Having worked many years in the tourism industry, he assembled some of the best tour guides and sent them to Estonian culinary legend Dimitri Demjanov to learn about Estonian culinary history, and the current restaurant scene. Demjanov is one of the top chefs

in Estonia, and founder of the Culinary Institute of Estonia.

The Baltic Guide decided to try the Tallinn of the Locals Din-ner Tour. This tour starts at 17.00 and includes stops at four diffe-rent restaurants, as well as a plea-sant walk through the Old Town –mostly for digestion.

First on the list: Fish & Wine. Here we got a taste of traditional Estonia with a bowl of fish soup. Delicately cooked fish in a light broth with dill certainly whet the appetite. Next, we walked down towards the historic Viru Gates and stopped in at the Vertigo café

for a glass of sparkling cider and some local snacks. Vertigo café’s own preserves were served with traditional Estonian black bread that had been baked with nuts and dried fruit. After filling up it seemed impossible that we still had two more stops left in the tour. The next destination was on Toompea. This digestive walk came at just the right time in the tour. Luscher & Matiesen was the third stop. Here we listened to the tales of owner Peke Eloranta as he described the wines of this histo-rical Tallinn cellar. It was difficult to leave this picturesque patio that

Perfection at Vihula Manor Country

Club & SpaVihula Manor is an elegant and charming 16th century

estate amid lush parklands, set alongside a romantic river in the Lahemaa National Park.

TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTOS KRISTINA LUPP

Tallinn is an hour away; the romantic coast is only 4 kilomet-res away.

Vihula Manor Country Club & Spa is a full service manor resort catering to the needs of the most demanding guests under the management of German Micha-el Stenner and his well motivated, professional team.

Just to give you an examp-le of how efficiently things work around here: you have ordered a gala buffet for 100 people but – gosh – when the function begins

you realise that you forgot to order dessert! While the guests enjoy a delicious meal, chef Toomas Lääts prepares a wonderful fluffy cake that arrives just in time with no one the wiser!

Another example: all of a sud-den conference guests realise that their technical equipment does not work. Minutes later the problem has been resolved by the knowledgeable and helpful staff! As we know, details make up the whole picture or as the saying goes, you can only leave a first impression once!

Vihula, like all other manors

in Estonia has changed owner-ship over the centuries. The oldest traces of Vihula go back to 1501 when it was in the hands of Danish baron Hans von Lode. Until ten years ago Vihula was in a sad state. Now it is like a shining star, it has been fully renovated and looking better than ever.

The interior is a perfect blend of traditional and daring modern. There is a clear touch of contem-porary Scandinavian minimalism. It is an elegant and secluded esta-te, a perfect escape from the city and a supremely comfortable and luxurious place to stay. Whether

you are here on business, atten-ding a family celebration or rela-xing on holiday, Vihula takes care of your needs.

The conference facilities are excellent, weddings and family functions are popular. It is the per-fect place for romantic weekends. The restaurant offers gourmet dining. The spa is there for those who want to relax.

The beautiful Lahemaa Natio-nal Park is located beside Vihula, and offers many outdoor activi-ties. No doubt, you feel rich and full of energy when you leave thanks to the impeccable servi-ce in an immaculate atmosphere.

Vihula Manor Country Club & Spa is located approximately 100 kilometres east of Tallinn and

slightly north of the main road to Narva/St Petersburg. ■www.vihulamois.ee

In 1913, there were 1,245 manors in Estonia. These architectural pearls in the Estonian landscape have survived over time and carry the memory of the past. Most of the manor houses belonged to the Baltic-German nobility. During Soviet times they fell into decay. Today many have been carefully renovated and some are used as hotels and spas. The manors play a significant role in the Estonian cultural history and have influenced and shaped the Estonian society.

www.manor.ee

Estonian Manor Tourism

overlooked Tallinn’s Old Town, but dinner was calling. Final stop: Musi. This wine bar/restaurant was a lovely end to a great tour. We had a choice of fish or rabbit for our main course paired with a glass of wine.

The tour was professional, yet casual at the same time. Everyone in the group got along very well and the atmosphere was that of an evening out with friends. ■

Food Sightseeing Estoniawww.foodsightseeing.ee

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 212 culture

Architectural influence

The Museum of Estonian Architecture is not only interesting on the inside.

In search of the Estonian spy cameraThe small and intimate Photography Museum just behind the Tallinn City Hall is a pleasant oasis for contemplation.

Location

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum), Ahtri 2. TallinnOpen: W 12-18, Th 12-20, F-Su 11-18

TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERKOV

The museum building itself is an exhibit. Located in the historical shopping and industrial quarter Rotermann, this renovated buil-ding certainly suits the neigh-bourhood. The exhibit rooms are located over four floors. The permanent exhibit displays the evolution of Estonian architectu-re through the ages. Many small models and project descriptions are on display to help you fami-liarise yourself. The most inter-esting building projects are those that for some reason were never built. Many of the models on display were shown at architectu-ral competitions, and many even won, like the Estonian National

Museum in Tartu. Eliel Saarinen’s large Tallinn plan,in spite of his great vision never made it beyond its paper form that now sits on display in the museum.

The museum shows the many sides of Estonian architecture. It’s certainly evident that there were many open-minded and coura-geous builders in Estonia. But it’s just as well that some of the mini models were never built. They are just as interesting to look at in the museum. Still on display for the first part of September is the Tallinn wooden architecture exhibit, as well as the Estonian cinema exhibit in honour of the 100th anniversary of film in Esto-nia. The photos in the wooden architecture exhibit show the dis-

tinct difference between old and new buildings in the city.

The history of schoolhouse buildings is in itself very particu-lar. After the school reform many schools were built in small Estoni-an country communities. During this brief period (1920-40) 210 schools were built, of which 100 are still used today.

The cinema exhibit can be found in the basement. The buil-ding design of cinemas has chan-ged drastically over the years from small theatre houses to large cine-ma complexes. For example, one of the more interesting buildings is the Sõpruse cinema built in Stalinist style, as is the 700-seat Kosmos cinema built during the Soviet period. These cinemas have

stood the test of time and are still in relatively good condition today. For this reason, it is not only the 100th anniversary of film in Esto-nia that is worth celebrating. ■

The museum is located in an old salt storage building.

There are many architectural models on display.

TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

Once you step inside the medie-val building with its thick walls, small windows, and steep stairs you are far away from the street noise.

The museum gives an overview of Estonian photography from 1840 - 1940.

The oldest photos depict port-raits. I can imagine how long the whole procedure must have taken! People not only prepared themsel-ves mentally to go to the photo-grapher, they also dressed impec-

cably. The hair is set; the looks are solemn, more morose than joyful, as is the atmosphere. Everybody is dignified. These portrait pic-tures were given to loved ones. We have certainly seen examples of these kinds of photos at our grandmother’s house.

Once photography developed, background decorations were added, such as romantic landsca-pes. At one point, city portraits seem to have become popular background motifs.

No matter which pictures you focus on, they all bring the mind

Location

Raekoja tänav 4/6, Tallinn, behind the City HallTallinn Old Town Map Code H2

to a pleasant standstill and fill you with harmony.

The visitor also gets an idea of the development of cameras. Take a special look at the Minox camera, invented in Tallinn by the German-Latvian Walter Zapp in 1936. Pro-duction was started in 1938 in Riga because Zapp couldn’t find support in Tallinn. After WWII the Minox was produced in West Germany and was often referred to as the spy camera thanks to its small size.

The Photo Museum is a branch of the Tallinn City Museum and is located in the same building as

the former City Hall prison with a history dating back to the early 14th century. ■

Photography has certainly changed over the years.

■ SfäärSfäär’s shop is attached to

its restaurant, both located

in the same modern space.

The shop sells more clothing,

than objects, visitors can

browse through brand name

Scandinavian designer clothes

and shoes. The restaurant is

open both for lunch and dinner

and serves new Nordic cuisine.

Mere pst. 6E, Tallinn

www.sfaar.ee.

■ Estonian Design HouseThe Estonian Design House is located in a histo-

rical building in the even more historic district

of Kalamaja. This shop houses displays, promo-

tes and sells the works of Estonian artists and

designers including Monika Järg, Karin Kersa,

Stella Soomlais and more. Food and design

must go together because right next door is

Café Klaus, another modern restaurant/café

where you can enjoy good food, good music,

good design, and most importantly, free WiFi.

Kalasadama 8, Tallinn

www.estoniandesignhouse.ee

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2 13beauty■ Nu NordikThis quirky shop is located in the Freedom

Square. There is no way that you will miss it

because the front window display always has

something interesting and unique to look

at. Here you can pick up one of a kind gifts

and souvenirs, like a wall clock made out of a

vinyl record, or rubber boots painted with a

traditional Estonian handicraft pattern. And

the jewellery….here there are all kinds of great

pieces, some more traditional, and others a

little bit more funky.

Vabaduse Väljak 8

www.nunordik.ee

■ A-GaleriiThis jewellery gallery is the place to

come for a unique gift. The gallery is

situated in an old goldsmith’s house

and has a large safe that is opened for

new exhibits. The jewellery is designed

by Estonian designers or designers

who have learned their craft in Estonia.

The gallery features the work of close

to 70 artists and includes both modern

and traditional designs.

Hobusepea 2, Tallinn

www.agalerii.ee

The royal treatment

Thai massage is not your typical massage.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

No, no, not like that! Thai mas-sage involves stretching and deep massage. No oils are used, and the client wears comfortable, loose fitting clothing and the massage takes place on the floor. To put it simply, it’s like doing yoga, but someone else is moving your arms and legs for you.

While this may sound strange, it is a massage unlike any other. Walking into the studio on a drizz-ly Monday morning, I felt tired and the last thing I wanted was for someone to put me into all kinds of strange positions. The spa provided me with loose-fitting pants and a comfortable t-shirt. The massage took place in a small room with comfortable cushions and blankets laid out on the floor. I was asked to lie on my back and the therapist started with my feet and legs, gradually working her way up to my arms, neck, head, and finally stomach.

While some positions seemed easy, others were more difficult. Marika, my massage therapist said that Thai massage is diffe-rent for everyone. Some people are more flexible than others, and Thai massage is not suited to eve-ryone. This is why she asked me a few standard questions before starting. For example, Thai mas-sage can be beneficial for preg-nant women, but the technique is adapted.

The massage left me feeling relaxed, yet energised, almost like an hour of yoga. The Thai massage is available as a one-hour treatment (35) or as a 90-minute treatment (52). Royal Thai Mas-sage also offers different varieties of Thai massage, including an hour specifically targeting hands or feet, as well as other styles of massage. ■

Location

Raekoja tänav 4/6, Tallinn, behind the City Hall. Code: Tallinn Old Town, H2

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 214

Map Code A2.

restaurants■ The fishy caféBefore the cool autumn days

descend on Estonia, be sure to visit

the newly renovated Fish Market

in Tallinn’s port district. Between

10-16 on Saturdays enjoy a coffee

and a small snack by the water. The

market sells both fresh and smoked

fish. The café will remain open until

mid to late September, weather

dependant.

Kalasadam, Kalaranna 1, Tallinn

www.tallinnakalaturg.ee

■ El NiñoThis recently opened cocktail bar

is just one of the places to warm

up as the weather gets cooler.

With an excellent drink list, and

an even better tapas selection,

it’s a great place to meet up

with friends for an evening on

the town. Conveniently located

in the Old Town, it’s worth

checking out.

Vana-posti 8, Tallinn Old Town

www.elnino.ee

Born to cookEmmanuel Wille is the head chef in three different restaurants.

TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Belgian born Emmanuel Wille

is nicknamed Manu in Estonia. At the moment this professional chef runs the kitchens of Olde Hansa, Clazz, and Glad Estlander. Born in Brugge, Wille was alrea-dy interested in cooking from a young age. He said that by the age of six he was already baking and cooking.

“I started going to cooking school when I was 12, and at the same time I began working. In the beginning I worked without pay, and by the time I was 13 I went to work in a professional kitchen. I started as a dishwasher but paid attention to what the cooks were doing. Slowly I began with simp-le baking tasks, and after awhi-le I was given more complicated duties.”

Manu began earning a wage when he wanted to buy a motor-cycle. “I worked for free while I was going to school, but then I

wanted to buy a motorcycle and I got money from the restaurant owner. I finished my school exams with very good marks, and I was offered a full time job at the res-taurant for my good work.”

In his home country, Manu worked in many different restau-rants, including one with a Miche-lin star, where he learned the foundations of French cooking.

Manu first came to Estonia ten years ago. Since then, Estonia has kept him employed in some top restaurants. “I first started working at the Roosikrantsi res-taurant and I have also worked at Gloria and Charitali. I have learned something new at each one.”

The owner of Olde Hansa, Auri Hakomaa, drew Manu to his current position. “Auri called and offered me a job just at the right time. I was just about to start my own business when I thought that I could wait six months and work for Auri. It has been a few

years now and I must say that I am very satisfied with my job.”

Running three kitchens does not come without problems. “I am like a conductor and the back up person for the cooks. I guarantee the quality of the food portions and help the cooks if they have any problems. It’s important that the food arrives quickly to the cus-tomer without its quality being compromised.”

“At the same time it is also my job to come up with new ideas and listening to those of the owners. Olde Hansa is a medieval style res-taurant, and the menus have not changed that much over the years. At Clazz it is important that the food and music compliment one another, as well as the drinks. At Glad Estlander, the menu must showcase true Estonian flavours, because Estonian cuisine has been heavily influenced by its neigh-bours.”

In all three restaurants one of the most important tasks is the

procurement of ingredients. “We use as much local produce as pos-sible. About 80 of our ingredi-ents are from local producers, but for example it can be very hard to find good quality meat. In Clazz we use beef fillets that come from Australia, but the hamburger meat is from Livonia.”

Manu is often asked what his favourite food is: “My tastes chan-

Outside on the Clazz patio, Manu shows off his plates.

ge. In the summer I prefer light salads and fish. In the winter I like heavy soups, like the Estonian pea soup that is a great winter food. Slow cooking is my preferred met-hod of cooking. At Olde Hansa, many of the dishes are braised slowly and marinated for many days. In our other restaurants we prepare many of the sauces in the same way.” ■

Manu started to cook at the age of 12.

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2 15restaurants■ Till ja KummelIt won’t take long for this new Old

Town café to become popular.

The restaurant has a lovely

modern yet cosy interior, with a

secluded back courtyard patio.

The menu consists of some fresh

and light salads. The burger was

really truly good, as was the

duck. For dessert, try the rhubarb

cheesecake.

Nunne 7, Tallinn Old Town

www.till-kummel.ee

■ GastronomThis is the latest edition to the

Rotermanni Atrium that seems to

be slowly becoming the place for

gourmet food. Gastronom specialises

in Spanish charcuterie and cheese.

Be sure to try the cured horse meat.

They also have a great selection of

wines and sherries that they import

themselves.

Rotermanni 8, Tallinn

spanish

Simple, yet elegant Mediterranean flavours at Neikid

This restaurant just might be one of Tallinn’s best-kept secrets.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Good professional service, an experimental yet uncomplicated menu, and a lovely space all equal a successful restaurant.

I have always been weary of on-line booking, thinking that my email goes into sea of unread messages in an inbox somewhere. Within the hour my booking had been confirmed and I had a lovely meal awaiting me at Neikid.

You’ve probably never heard of Neikid because it’s tucked away on a small street behind Toompea, a route that you probably wouldn’t take to explore the Old Town. Open for lunch and dinner, it’s worth the detour.

The interior is very plain –light beige and white linens cover the chairs and tables, and orchids

decorate the windows. Imme-diately upon entering, the pro-fessional and friendly staff is there to greet you.

The menu is not very long, but it covers all the bases. It is mainly Spanish, but some other Mediter-ranean influences seep through. As an appetiser we tried the foie gras with Põltsamaa Kuldne jelly (10) and the low temperature roasted lamb (7). The pairing of the apple wine jelly and the foie gras worked well, and gave the dish that Estonian twist. The star however was the roasted lamb, in both presentation and taste. It came served in a glass jar and when the lid was opened smoke came out. The lamb was tender, and I only wish there had been more.

Paella can be a hit or miss. We decided to take a chance on the two-person serving (18), but to be honest I wish we had tried

Location

Neikid. Wismari 3 Tallinnwww.neikid.ee

something else. The rice was cooked al dente and came with a generous serving of shellfish, but it was simply too salty. The server was quick to fix this and offered us coffee. I would certainly go again and try something else.

Neikid also has a great wine list with a modest selection of Old World wines and many bottles under 30. Good food and great value for the money, I look for-ward to my next visit already. ■

Greek comfortTraditional Greek food in the heart of

Tallinn’s Old Town.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Artemis became a favourite of mine this summer, as I was in search for the best grilled meat in Tallinn. I think we might have a winner!

This Greek restaurant has all the staples: souvlaki, tzatziki, dolmadakia (grape leaves stuffed with rice), and kihi spanakotiro-pita (spinach and feta pie), as well as a small selection of Greek wine.

As an appetiser we tried the tzatziki (4) and melitzanosalata (3.50), an eggplant dip with gril-led pita(2). The pita was served warm and sprinkled with dried oregano and bit of olive oil. The dips, especially the tzatziki were portioned generously, leaving a little bit to accompany the sou-vlaki.

As a main course, the souv-laki special (15) is served with salad and grilled vegetables. A

side order of fries (2) is a good accompaniment. The mixed plat-ter for two (30) has a little bit of everything –sausage, chicken, pork, fries, and salad. It is also a very generous portion that could in fact be easily shared between three people.

While it is one of those pla-ces where they charge you extra for every addition and side dish, the portions are large. For two people, with two beers, appetiser and main course the total came to 40. ■

Location

Artemis. Pikk 35 Tallinn Old Town Map Code G2. www.artemis.ee

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 216 shopping

A small town with an important history

Location

Jagdhof, Ülemiste Shopping Centre, Suur- Sõjamäe 4. Tallinn.Eeden Goods and Leisure Centre (Eedeni kauba -ja vabaajakeskus), Kalda tee 1 c, Tartu

The hunter’s candy shop

Jagdhof sells everything to meet yourhunting and fishing needs.

TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERKOV

Located in the Ülemiste shop-ping centre near the airport, Jaghof sells quite a lot of different things. The storeowner’s interest in hunting is certainly visible from the many trophies decorating the walls and the large selection of hunting goods lining the shelves. The

Clothing and accessories are among the many things available at Jagdhof.

Ben's 100 has the highest concentration of DEET available in an insect repellant.

store’s priority is to bring the highest quality and the largest selection of goods to the consu-mer.

The list of brands that Jagdhof carries is long. For example, fis-hing equipment brands include Hardy, Swarovski riflescopes and binoculars, Mauser revolvers, and Chavalier hunting clothes and gear. You will also find Lehter-mann, Wenger, Zippo, and many more, a selection you won’t find everywhere.

Fishermen will find everything under one roof at Jagdhof, inclu-ding Estonian-made lures. For 8 euros you can get an Are brand lure, a bargain indeed.

For hunting enthusiasts there is a large and affordable selection

of rifles. For example, for less than two hundred euros you can buy a

Mauser pistol. Even high quality bullets are reasonably priced.

The store’s top seller has to be the well-known Ben’s 100 mosqui-to repellent. It has the highest con-centration of DEET available and is difficult to come by in the EU. Jagdhof imports this item priva-tely and sells it for 10 per bottle.

To meet the demands of more specialised customers, the store also sells genuine German-made swords. (Prices start at 199). ■

The history of glass production dates back 130 years in Järvakandi.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS KRISTINA LUPP

Järvakandi is a small town loca-ted between Tallinn and Pärnu. Its population is 1394. In fact, you’ve probably never heard of it, but there has always been a reason to visit this small town, and that is to learn about the history of glass production in Estonia.

The glass capital of Estonia does not get its name by accident. Glass has been made here for over 130 years! You can learn about all of this at the Glass Museum, loca-ted in the house of an old glass master, built in 1879. The perma-nent exhibit is divided into two parts, the history of glass making in Estonia and the history of Jär-vakandi. The exhibit begins by explaining the history of medie-val glass making and a manual glass boiling technique is used. It

Location

Järvakandi is located 78km from Tallinn. It is easily accessible by bus or car.

Järvakandi Glass Museum1. Mai tn 2A, Järvakandiwww.klaasimuuseum.ee

Järvakandi Glass Studio Workshops1. Mai tn 2A, Järvakandiwww.klaasipuhumine.ee

For information in English visit www.visitestonia.ee

then moves on to show mechani-cal glass production. There is also a worker’s room that is set up to look as it did in the 1920s.

What makes this destination even more interesting is that you

can try your hand at glass blowing. The glass objects are made from Estonian sand that is melted to over 1000C. As we walked into the studio, glass artist Eero Vaikre was finishing up a day’s work, put-

ting the final touches to a small figurine before it was to be put into the cooling oven. He first explained the basics to us, and some safe-ty precautions. I must admit that I was little nervous to try it myself. Coming out of the oven it looks like thick glo-wing yellow syrup, the last thing you want is for it to drip down from the thick hollow metal rod that is used to pull it from the oven. Eero explained the technique

Glass blowing is not as easy as it looks.

step by step and guided me as I blew into the hollow tube to form a large glass bubble at the end. Not so hard after all, but what is complicated is turning the rod at a continuous pace to keep the ball evenly round.

You can make an appointment to come by yourself, or with a group of up to 10 people. ■

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2 17

www.balticguide.ee

Read articles online at

Quality glasses at a reasonable priceSurgery can fix near and far sightedness,

but many people still wear glasses.

TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Reading glasses can be found in the pockets of most people 50 years and older. You can even buy glasses for as little as a couple of euros, but you can buy stylish glasses from the optical shop with better lenses. At the Silmajaam eyeglass store in Tallinn you can choose between many different frames for under 30 euro.

Progressive lenses are com-mon. These are lenses that you can use for reading as well as dis-tance. For these types of lenses you must visit the eye doctor to have a special prescription writ-ten for you. It is now common to have a complimentary eye exam in Tallinn eyeglass stores. Lenses are

always pre-ordered. If you are on vacation in Tallinn, have your new glasses sent to you in the post, that way you don’t have to come back to the store. Brand name frames and quality lens prices are compa-rable to international prices; the-refore it’s certainly worth a visit to an eyeglass store in Estonia.

You can also purchase glasses without lenses. In Estonia, there is a great selection of fashion brands and most stores have their own, less expensive brand name as well. ■

shopping

Location

Silmajaam, Vana-Viru 11 / Aia 5, Tallinn. Map Code Old Town H3

?

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 218 design

Norr 11 –the best of modern Scandinavian designTEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTO NORR11

Estonian soul and nature fit perfectly with the design of Norr11, a Danish-German furni-ture and home accessories chain that recently opened its show-room in Tallinn. It is conveniently located in the fascinating Roter-mann Quarter between the Tal-linn port and the Old Town. The shop is designed in a strict archaic way with generous and ambitio-us space that makes the collec-tions perfectly visible and that add to a functionalist Bauhaus atmosphere. “The aim has been to create a centre for functionalist

Nordic interior design in Tallinn, which so far was lacking“, says Mr Edvard Mihkelsaar, CEO of Norr11 Estonia.

All products are designed and developed in collaboration with young ambitious designers, who base their products on innovative Scandinavian design with the tra-ditional values of Asian furniture design. Each product is unique and speaks a clear, unambiguous language.

Understandably, travellers cannot carry home larger pieces of furniture, however the NORR11 showroom provides the opportu-nity to experience and test each

piece of furniture and accessories that can be ordered in Tallinn and then swiftly shipped to the custo-mer world-wide.

In addition to the showroom pieces, there is a wide range of additional items on-line so just ask the professional sales con-sultants for advice and they will assist you. ■

Location

Rotermanni 5/Roseni 10, Tallinn Map Code A2www.norr11.com Shop on-line.

Old meets newThe Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (ETDM) is

conveniently located in Tallinn’s Old Town.

TEXT TIMO HUTTUNEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The museum is situated in a 17th century baroque style house, worth a visit on its own. The buil-ding was restored in 1970. Muse-um exhibits can be found on the third floor. There is a nice view from the top floor into the courty-ard where the Linnateater builds its outdoor summer stage. In addition to the permanent exhi-bits, there are often temporary exhibits as well.

porcelain, glass, leather, jewellery, metal, and furniture.

There have been over one hun-dred applied art and design exhi-bits by Estonian artists showcased in the museum. ■

Location

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum), Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town Map Code G1.

The museum is open Wednesday to Sunday 11.00-18.00.

The permanent exhibit gives a good overview of Estonian design and applied art from the begin-ning of the last century to today. Soviet era pop design is particu-larly interesting as are the every-day objects created in Soviet fac-tories for the Soviet Union. There are also many objects from other periods. In many of the items it is possible to see just how big the designer’s imagination really was. But the best objects are those that have practical as well as aesthetic value. There are many examples

of this in the exhibit, for example the award-winning milk bag holder.

There are close to 15,000 objects in the museum. Comprised wit-hin the ETDM collecti-on are textiles, ceramics,

Until 23.9 MARGINALIA, Mini Books

Until 4.11 Modernization. Baltic art, architecture and design in the 1960s and 1970s

Upcoming autumn exhibits at the Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design:

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2 19

Look around and you will see that design is everywhere; in your clothes, your iPad and in the next car you pass.

Design is everywhere!

person

Elements of design are evident even in small and large medical objects.

TEXT: TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTOS: TIIT LIIV

Tiit Liiv (49) at Artec Indust-rial OÜ is a successful indust-rial designer who influences our surroundings and everyday life. Tiit is a graduate from ERKI/The Estonian Academy of Arts and has specialised in industrial design with an emphasis in elec-tronics and medical appliances.

In which design category would you place Estonia?Although we talk about design in very general terms I would bring up two fields where we are strong: so called unique design, such as furniture or exhibitions and industrial design in its clas-sical meaning.

Can you give some examples?You can find Estonian design in large and small industry such as sports clothing, textiles, and electronics. The more Estonian industry is exposed to internatio-nal competition, the more possi-bilities are given to our industrial designers. Where do the ideas and inspiration come from? The ideas and impulses are pri-marily derived from interesting and complex projects as well as from the ever-increasing techni-cal possibilities, not least of which are computer based.

What is the impact of a strong design country like neighbouring Finland?

MPs use social media too70 Estonian MPs now use Facebook, according to Eesti Päevaleht. This is a large jump from only 28 users in 2010. Liia Hänni, E-Governance Academy Program Director said she would like to see more use of social media app-lications. This would allow the public to post queries to politicians directly. A third of the Estonian population used Facebook last year, according to ETV.

Estonia to aid Georgian anti-cybercrime projectThe Estonian Police and Border Guard have been allocated 64,378€ by the Foreign Ministry to better Georgia’s capability in preventing and comba-ting cybercrime. Fighting cybercrime is a priority for Georgia and it wants to standardise its strategies and legislation to match those of the European Union. Georgia has also joined the Council of Europe’s Cybercrime Convention Committee.

Fuel prices riseFuel prices are still higher than in the same period last year, despite a decli-ning trend seen since April. Prices have increased by approximately one third. This means that driving 30km a day will cost 300€ more per year. Fuel prices are still lower in Estonia than the European average.

Electronic ticket systems installed on public transportIn August, the Tallinn Transport Department began installing electronic ticket validating systems in Tallinn’s public transport vehicles. Starting September 21, electronic cards will be available for purchase. This new system will cost 4.6 million euros. Paper tickets will still be accepted until the end of this year.

Historical register available on phonesA new mobile phone application now allows smartphone users to query the Heritage Board. Launched in August, users can access data about historical monuments under conservation inclu-ding name, number, type, address, histo-ry, description, and images. Monuments can be searched by name, number, and location, as well as by QR code scan.

SeptemberNews

I’m sure that Estonian design has been influenced by classical Fin-nish industrial design that is high-ly appreciated globally. It is fun-ctional and minimalist. Many of

our designers have been educa-ted in Finland or they have been working there. I was working with one of the leading design compa-nies in Finland for years. This was an important complement to my formal Estonia design education.

Helsinki has been named the World Design Capital in 2012. Does this have an impact on Estonia?No doubt it will influence us, not least of which because the year also enables Estonian designers to expose themselves through an Estonian design exhibition in Suvilahti in Helsinki. What is most important to you as an industrial designer?For me it is important to make use of available technologies and efficient cooperation with indust-rial partners especially from R&D departments. At the same time designers often approach things from an unexpected angle with regard to contemporary and novel technologies. How do you judge Estonian design education?Professional design education in Estonia goes back to the mid 1960s, which gives a strong foun-dation. In addition to this, coope-ration with universities within the product development sector is on the rise. Thus I’m optimistic. ■

Professional design

education

in Estonia goes

back to the mid

1960s.

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 220 entertainment

Tallinn’s nightlife will keep you dancing into the early morning hours.

Many restaurants in Tallinn are open late or even 24 hours. Enjoy a snack in the early morning hours after leaving the clubs. The Clazz kitchen stays open late but on weekends you might have to pay cover to get in. Taco Express in the Old Town is popular among the younger crowd, but expect crowds around 3-4am.

Hungry?

The groove queenTEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERKOV,

UNIVERSAL MUSIC

A recent high school gradua-

te, Liis Lemsalu can be proud to add herself to the list of Estoni-an Idol (Eesti otsib superstaari) winners. Growing up in Norway, she began her singing career at an early age in the Norwegian choir. Lemsalu’s first album was released last winter. The first single, Shining Star was played on the radio quite a bit. The song is pure R&B and has a very international sound. But this is no coincidence, the lyrics were written by Niara Scarlett and the music by Ellet T. and Kyösti Salo-korpi from Finland.

The second single, Wanna Get Down truly showcases her talent. Lemsalu sings this Stevie Wonder hit flawlessly and is perhaps the best song on the album. She rein-vents this retro classic with a bit of modern soul.

This past spring, Lemsalu took part in the Estonian Euro-vision song contest with her song, Made Up My Mind. The acid jazz feel of this song is reminiscent of early Jamiroquai. But it will have to remain a mystery as to how the song would have done in the Eurovision finals. Lemsalu has paired up with Rene Puura

and shows that the young singers’ talents are visible in duets as well as covers.

“Täitugu soovid” is one of the record’s two Estonian songs. Lemsalu’s sound resonates per-haps even stronger in Estonian.

Liis Lemsalu can be conside-red one of Estonia’s top live per-formers. She tours with her band that is known to sometimes break into jams on stage.

The Baltic Guide liked the album and we look forward to hearing much more from Ms. Lemsalu in the near future. ■

Who is Liis Lemsalu?■ Born in Pärnu and raised in Norway, Liis Lemsalu won the Estonian Idol competition this past autumn.

■ Lemsalu was named best female Estonian artist last year and this spring she was voted as most beautiful.

■ Liis Lemsalu’s debut album was released in November. The record has both songs in English and Estonian.

■ Lemsalu’s music is a little bit of R&B, soul, and acid jazz all in one.

Sossi klubi

Location

Chicago 1933, Aia 3. Map Code Vanalinn H3.Bastioni Aed, Viru 23. Map Code Vanalinn H3.Talukõrts, Viru 18. Old Town Map Code H3.Clazz, Vana turg 2. Old Town Map Code H2.Beerhouse, Dunkri. Old Town Map Code H1.Kochi Aidad Trahter, Lootsi 10. Map Code A3.Sossi-klubi, Tartu mnt 82. Map Code C4.Rock Cafe, Tartu mnt. 80 D. Map Code C4.Valuutabaar and Cafe Amigo, Viru väljak 4. Map Code B2.

Care to dance?

TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

In addition to the many dance clubs in town, there are seve-ral great venues suitable for an older generation. Whether you like jazz, rock, or waltz, there is something for everyone. Restau-rants with dance music usually open between 8 and 9pm and the party continues until 1am, and depending on the place possibly until five in the morning on wee-kends. Here at The Baltic Guide we decided to go see for ourselves to help you find the best dancing in town.

 Taking a walk along the main street of the Old Town Viru, you can hear music in the evenings from the restaurant and jazz club Chicago 1933. It is located just off the main street on Aia. Depen-ding on the evening, you can hear anything from rockabilly to jazz.

 One of the newest places in the city is the open air restau-rant Bastioni Aed with live music every night. The restaurant is located right at the beginning of Viru Street, opposite the flower stalls. Once a potato field, this enclosed patio is comfortable and classy.

  Talukõrts is a cosy tradi-tional Estonian tavern. It has live music on weekends and is located in the same building as the popular Finnish karaoke bar Lokaal.

 Enjoy a meal and a dance at the popular jazz venue Clazz. Both Estonian and foreign artists perform on this stage. Come early on weekends as it does fill up quickly.

 Estonia's first brewery-res-taurant Beerhouse is located near the town square. Hear live music from Thursday to Satur-day in a jovial pub atmosphere.

 The new brewery-restaurant

Kochi Aidad offers their own beer as well as free dance nights on weekends featuring Estonian dance bands such as Kukerpillid and Apelsiin. It is located close to the D-Terminal at the port of Tallinn.

  The Sossi Club is a popu-lar destination among Finnish tourists. On weekends enjoy two for one drinks between 8-9pm and ladies get in for half price. See live acts from Thursday to Saturday.

 The Rock Café is located in the same building as the Sossi

Club and is one of the biggest rock clubs in Tallinn. Concerts take place on several days throug-hout the week. See Soulfly and Fu Manchu in Spetember.

 The Valuutabaar in the Sokos Viru Hotel is another great place for dancing or karaoke. And if you still have energy, you can go downstairs to Cafe Amigo, which is open on weekends until five am. ■

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2 21this&that/diversewhat's happening

Estonian National Opera (Rahvusooper Estonia)Estonia pst 4, Tallinn, tel +372 683 12 14, www.opera.ee. Location: Old Town Map Code J3

Tallinn City Theatre(Tallinna Linnateater)Lai 21, Tallinn, tel +372 665 08 00, www.linnateater.ee. Location: Old Town Map Code G1

Estonian Drama Theatre(Eesti Draamateater)Pärnu mnt 5, Tallinn, tel +372 680 55 55, www.draamateater.ee. Location: Old Town Map Code I/J2

Russian Theatre(Vene teater)Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn, tel +372 611 49 62, www.veneteater.ee Location: Old Town Map Code J1

Estonian Doll and Youth Theatre (Eesti Nuku- ja Noorsooteater)Lai 1, Tallinn, tel +372 667 95 50, www.nukuteater.eeLocation: Old Town Map Code G1

Estonia Concert Hall (Estonia Kontserdisaal)Estonia pst 4, Tallinn, www.concert.eeLocation: Old Town Map Code I/J3

9.9 14 Mirror in Mirror, Paide Church15.9 19 Vanemuine Concert Hall Season Opening Concert 18.9 19 Con Brio 2010 Laureate Heili Rosin22.9 19 Eesti Kontsert Season Opening Concert. Music is the Voice of Love25.9 19 KontsertJazz. Benoit Delbecq Trio (France), Viljandi Culture Centre26.9 19 KontsertJazz. Benoit Delbecq Trio (France), Tallinn, Estonian National Opera Winter Garden27.9 19 Golden Classics. Estonian National Symphony Orchestra27.9 15 Estonian National Male Choir28.9 19 Mart Saar 13028.9 19 Estonian National Male Choir, Mustvee Culture Centre29.9 17 Music through Tears- Imre Klman 130, Riisipere Culture Centre29.9 19 Mart Saar 130, Tartu University Assembly Hall30.9 16 Wild Knight. Voldemar Kuslap 75, Rõuge Community Club30.9 15 Mart Saar 130, Suure- Jaani Gümnaasiumi saal1.10 13 Youth Day Lets Make Our Own Music1.10 15 Youth Day Lets Make Our Own Music1.10 11 Youth Day Lets Make Our Own Music

Swedish St Michael’s Church (Rootsi-Mihkli kogudus)Rüütli 9, Tallinn, www.stmikael.eeLocation: Old Town Map Code I1

126. 08. kl. 12.00 Gudstjänst/Swedish Service kl. 15.00 Gottesdienst/German Service30. 08 kl. 17.00 VIII Tallinn Chamber Music Festival Young Talents Concert Marike Kruup (violin), Marten Altrov (clarinet), Neeme Ots (trumpet), Age Juurikas (piano)31. 08 kl. 17.00 VIII Tallinn Chamber Music Festival Young Talents Concert Kadri Kipper (soprano), Aule Urb (mezzosoprano), Toomas Kolk (baritone), Pavlo Balakin (bass), Piia Paemurru (piano) 02. 09. kl. 12.00 Gudstjänst/Swedish Service09. 09. kl. 12.00 Gudstjänst/ Swedish Service kl. 15.00 Gottesdienst/German Service16. 09. kl. 12.00 Gudstjänst/ Swedish Service22. 09. kl. 14.00 Engineer’s Men’s Choir Concert23. 09. kl. 12.00 Gudstjänst/ Swedish Service kl. 15.00 Gottesdienst/German Service29. 09. kl. 18.00 Finnish Choir Concert30. 09. kl. 12.00 Gudstjänst/ Swedish Service

Kumu Art Museum(Kumu kunstimuuseum)Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 602 60 00. Location: Map Code B5 Opening Hours: October–April  Wed 11am–8pm, Thu–Sun 11am–6pm. May–September  Tue 11am–6pm, Wed 11am–8pm, Thu–Sun 11am–6pm

Tallinn Botanical Gardens (Tallinna Botaanikaaed)Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn, www.tba.ee, tel +372 606 26 66Opening Hours: 11 -16

Occupation Museum(Okupatsioonimuuseum)Toompea 8, Tallinn, www.okupatsioonid.ee, tel +372 668 02 50. Location B1Opening Hours: Tu-Su 11 - 18

Adamson-Erics Museum(Adamson Ericu muuseum)Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 644 58 38. Location: Old Town Map Code I1Opening Hours: We-Su 11–18 Ticket office closes 17.30

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum)Niguliste 3, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 631 43 30. Location: Old Town Map Code I1Opening hours: We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 606 64 00. Location: Map Code B4Opening Hours: January–June  Wed 10–20, Thu-Sun 10–17. July–December  Tue 10–17, Wed 10–10, Thu-Sun 10–17

Kadrioru Castle (Kadrioru loss)Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 606 64 00, Map Code/Kartkod A4Location: Map Code A4Opening Hours: January–April  Wed 10–20, Thu–Sun 10–17. May–June  Thu 10–17, Wed 10–20, Thu–Sun 10–17. July–December 2012  Closed

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum)

Lai 29a, Tallinn, www.loodusmuuseum.ee, tel +372 641 17 39Map Code Old Town/Kartkod gamla stan F2 Location: Old Town Map Code F2Opening Hours: We-Su 10–17

Estonian History Museum, Maarjamäe Castle(Eesti Ajaloomuuseum, Maarjamäe loss)Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, www.eam.ee, tel +372 622 86 00. Location: Map Code A5Opening Hours: We-Su 10–17

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)Vene 17, Tallinn, www.linnamuuseum.ee, tel +372 615 51 83Location: Old Town Map Code G3Opening Hours: We – Mo 10.30–18

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)Lai 17, Tallinn, www.edtm.ee, tel +372 627 46 00Location: Old Town Map Code 1GOpening Hours: We-Su 11 - 18

Estonian Maritime Museum, Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta)Pikk 70, Tallinn, www.meremuuseum.ee, tel +372 641 14 08. Location: Old Town Map Code D3Opening Hours: We-Su 10–18

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu)Ahtri 2, Tallinn, www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee, tel +372 625 70 00Location: Map Code A2Opening Hours: We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18

Permanent exhibitions: Greater-Tallinn, Art Nouveau, Wooden Architecture, Functionalism, Power and the Square, Contemporary Architecture.

Tartu Toy Museum(Tartu Mänguasjamuuseum)Lutsu 8, Tartu, www.mm.ee, tel +372 746 17 77Location: Tartu and southern Estonia Map Code B1Opening hours We – Su 11 – 18

Opera and Theatre:

Concerts: Exhibitions & Museums:

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2 21

Tallinn City Hall(Tallinna Raekoda)Raekoja plats, Tallinn, veeb.tallinn.ee/raekodaLocation: Old Town Map Code H1/2

6.10 16 Hortus Musicus and Etty Ben- Zaken (Israel)

St. John Church(Jaani kirik)Vabaduse väljak 1, Tallinn, www.tallinnajaani.eeLocation: Old Town Map Code J2

Pärnu Concert Hall(Pärnu Kontserdimaja)Aida 4, Pärnu, www.concert.eeLocation: Pärnu and Western Estonia Map Code A1

21.9 19 Eesti Kontsert Season Opening Concert. Music is the Voice of Love28.9 19 Golden Classics. Estonian National Symphony Orchestra2.10 19 Con Brio 2010 laureate Heili Rosin2.10 11 Youth Day Lets Make Our Own Music2.10 13 Youth Day Lets Make Our Own Music4.10 19 Carnival. Jaan Rääts 80

Niguliste Church(Niguliste kirik)Niguliste 3, www.ekm.ee/niguliste

VäravatornLühike Jalg 9, TallinnKarttakoodi I1

Nokia-konserttisali (Solarise Keskuses) Estonia pst. 9, Tallinna, www.tallinnconcerthall.com

8.9 15 XX sajandi muusikaeksam- vinüülist mp3ni (20th century musical history – from vinyl to mp3)8.9 19 XX sajandi muusikaeksam- vinüülist mp3ni (20th century musical history – from vinyl to mp3)16.9 19 Manhunt Estonia 2012 Finals Gala22.9 19 Dmitri Berlinsky and the Russian Chamber Philharmonic Orchestra Choir (St. Petersburg)23.9 19 Uljana Lopatkina "Grand Pavlova- Gala"25.9 19 Jesse Cook & Group "The Rumba Foundation" (Canada)28.9 19 "The Cavern Beatles" Concert2.10 19 Igor Butmani Jubilee Concert 5.10 19 Vesa-Matti Loiri 50 Jobilee Concert

Jõhvi Concert Hall (Jõhvi Kontserdimaja)

Pargi 40, Jõhvi, www.concert.ee

19.9 19 Eesti Kontsert Season Opening Concert. Music is the Voice of Love28.9 19 Henry Laks CD Release Party1.10 19 Price

Vanemuise Concert Hall(Vanemuise Kontserdimaja)Vanemuise 6, Tartu, www.concert.eeLocation: Tartu and southern Estonia Map Code B2

14.9 19 Vanemuine Concert Hall Season Opening Concert20.9 19 Eesti Kontsert Season Opening Concert. Music is the Voice of Love27.9 19 Eesti Kontsert Season Opening Concert. Music is the Voice of Love27.9 19 KontsertJazz. Benoit Delbecq Trio (France)29.9 19 Mart Saar 130, Tartu University Assembly Hall Tartu Jaani Church (Tartu Jaani kirik)Jaani 5, Tartu, www.jaanikirik.eeLocation: Tartu and southern Estonia Map Code B1

Opera Singer Pille Lill Charity Concerts(PLMF)www.plmf.ee:

5.9 17 "Hingemuusika", Sillamäe Music School25.9 19 "Meistrite Akadeemia", Tallinna Town Hall

Rock CafeTartu mnt. 80D, Tallinn, www.rockcafe.ee

7.9 21 Vennaskond/ Kurjam12.9 19 Soulfly (USA)/ Incite (USA)/ Lody Kong (USA)21.9 19 Shanon 5. Sünnipäev22.9 19 Sõpruse Puiestee27.9 19 R2 Live28.9 19 Kolumbus Kris30.9 19 Fu Manchu (USA)5.10 21 Terminaator 25th anniversary6.10 19 Singer Vinger/ Propeller9.10 19 Rival Sons (USA)

Guitar HuntPärnu mnt. 19, Tallinn, www.guitarhunt.ee

Every tuesday Salsa nightEvery wednesday Beerpong

Free Concerts: Restaurant C'est La Vie (Suur-Karja 5, Tallinn) Location: Old Town Map Code I2

Classical Wednesdays Café Wabadus (Vabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn) Location: Old Town Map Code J1

Festivals:(http://www.festivals.ee/?s=1)

1.- 15.9 Festival Plektrum, www.plektrumfestival.ee8.- 21.9 Maarjalaulude Festival, throughout Estonia18.- 22.9 Viljandi Guitar Festival, www.viljandiguitar.ee2.- 9.10 Golden Mask Festival, www.goldenmask.ee20.- 1.10 The 19th International Festival of Orthodox Sacred Music CREDO, www.festivalcredo.ee20.- 23.9 Design Night Festival, www.disainioo.ee27.- 30.9 Autumn Festival of the Estonian Academy of Music and Theatre, www.ema.edu.ee1.6- 15.9 Nargen Festival, www.nargenfestival.ee

Other Events: 9.10 SEB Tallinn Marathon14.9 21.3 Sean Pollock Concert, Lounge 24, Rävala pst 328.-29.9 Teadlaste Öö 2012, www.ahhaa.ee

INVITATION �is year's guest: an 110-year-old teddy bear!

at the Saku Suurhall.

PS!

Phone, E-mail

Only 2 days!

http://artplanet.eu

�e International Exhibition-Fair Art Teddy Planet!October 27-28, 2012

PS!

Teddy bear style is all around: art objects, dolls, handmade bears, handicrafts, and much more. Meet the best artists, craftsmen, and designers! Find unique gifts for you and your closest friends. Master classes! Fashion show and performances! All in teddy bear style! Come and join the party at this one of a kind event!

Save this flyer for your chance to win a hand made teddy bear in the lottery!

Hard rock fall 

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA

Heavy metal music invades

Tallinn this autumn.The Rock Cafe has become one of Tallinn's most popular live music venues. The autumn program has something for everyone, but if you like hard rock you will be particularly pleased. The autumn season opens on September 9th with performan-ces by Soulfly and Fu Manchu in September. The rock band Rival Sons will perform on October 9th, whose performance last fall was amazing.

 The Finnish band Rasmus will take to the stage at the Rock Cafe on October 17th after a long absence. Fans of W.A.S.P will certainly not want to miss the gig on October

16th. Guitar icon Steve Vai performs on stage October 25th and Swedish band Katatonia plays November 6th.

 Many Estonian bands including Metsatöll, Tanel Padar, Terminator, Singer Vinger, Ultima Thule and Kukerpille will also play this fall.

 Before Christmas, on December 11th at the Saku Arena, Muse, known for their great performances will take the stage. Tickets sell out quickly so be sure to get yours early.

 Tickets for these events can be purchased at Piletilevi and Ticketpro kiosks or online. 

Location

Rock Cafe, Tartu mnt. 80 D, Tallinn.Saku Hall, Paldiski mnt. 104B, Tallinn.

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 222 www traffic

■ Tallinn Taxis■ Day and evening (23.00–6.00) taxi fares can vary. Each taxi company has their own rates. Every taxi must display driver information and photo.

■ For example, a one-way ride starting at Viru Hotel and lasting approximately 1.5 km should cost about 6€. With traffic congestion, the amount may be higher.

■ It pays to be careful when choosing a taxi, because some companies have much higher rates than others. Taxi prices are displayed on the right rear window and on the vehicle’s dashboard. The minimum fee must be displayed on the price list, as well as the rate per kilometer and standing rate. The

cost of the trip is always the displayed taximeter rate, as an ‘agreed rate’ will not always be honoured.

Taxi drivers must print a receipt. If for some reason the taxi driver does not offer a

receipt then the passenger is not obliged to pay. If you feel that the

price was unreasonable then make note of the car registration number, date of journey and the name of the taxi company.

■ If you feel that you have been cheated, you may send complaints

to: tta@tallinnlv.ee and/or The Bal-tic Guide: editorial@balticguide.ee.

Or call the Tallinn Service Line 1345.

USEFUL VOCABULARY

The car has broken down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Auto läks katkiThe car has run out of petrol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bensiin sai otsa Here is an accident. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Siin on avarii

There is a block in the road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Teel on ummikWhere is the car repair?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Kus on autoremonditöökoda/kummiparandus?

P U H E L I N N U M E R O T : P O L I I S I 1 1 0 , P E L A S T U S TO I M I 1 1 2 , AU TO A B I 1 8 8 8 ( 2 4 H ) .

No international driver’s license required.

It is important for drivers to follow the

following regulations:

■ Blood alcohol level must be 0.

■ Estonia has no freeways. Please mind inter-

sections and cyclists.

■ The speed limit in towns is usually 50 km /

h, but can vary between 30- 70 km / h. Speeds

will be marked. Outside built-up areas the

speed limit is 90 km / h, in some sections 110

km / h, but only in summer.

■ All cars must carry a warning triangle,

wheel chocks, first-aid kit and fire extinguish-

er. Drivers must wear a fluorescent vest when

stopped at night.

■ In case of collision, and in the event of inju-

ry, it is advisable to call the police. Insurance

documents and driver information should

be exchanged.

■ Parking and speeding fines will still be

charged if visiting from overseas. Please pay

fines on time to avoid penalty.

Useful Information

Parking in Tallinn

Important Phone Numbers: POLICE 110, EMERGENCY 112, AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h)

Schedules are based on current information at the time of printing and The Baltic Guide is

not responsible for changes/errors. Please consult individual websites before booking.

Temptrans AS Ticket Counters Viru 6, Tallinn,

tel. +372 6 480 777, open M-F

10–18, lunch 13–13.30. Nurga

1, Maardu, tel. +372 6 006 133,

open M-F 8–19, lunch 13–14,

Su open 10–15 Bus Station,

Lastekodu 46, Tallinn, open M-Su

6.30–21 E-mail: temptrans@

temptrans.ee, www.temptrans.

ee. Buses to Russia, Ukraine, and

Belarus.

EcolinesOffice Tartu mnt 68, Tallinn, tel

+372 6 062 217, e-mail:

ecolines@ecolines.ee. Open M-F

9–18. Bus Station Lastekodu 46,

Tallinn, tel. +372 56 377 997,

e-mail: ecolines.kassa@ecolines.

ee. Open M-F 6.30–21. Buses to

Europe and Russia, as well as

many other destinations.

Copterlinewww.fast-class.com

Tel. +358 (0) 200 18181

Tallinn Bus StationLastekodu 46, 10144, Tallinn

Open M–Sa 6.30–21, Su 6.45–21

Tel. +372 12 550

(Schedules www.bussireisid.ee)

Tallinn Train StationToompuiestee 37, 10133, Tallinn

Tel. +372 1447 (Schedules

www.edel.ee/soiduplaanid/)

Eckerö LineBookings +358 6 000 4300

(1.64 €/received call+local call cost).

Tallinn Tel. +372 6 646 000

NordlandiaTallinn: Reisisadam A-terminal

Helsinki: Länsi Terminal

Linda LineBookings Tel. +358 60 0066 8970,

(1.64 €/received call+local call cost).

Tallinn Tel. +372 6 999 333.

www.lindaliini.ee

Merilin & KarolinTallinn: Linnahall Port

Helsinki: Makasiini Terminal

TallinkBookings everyday from 07–22,

Tel. +358 6 001 5700 (1.64 €/

received call+local call cost),

Tallinn info and bookings

Tel. +372 6 409 808. Tickets also

available in travel agencies.

Tallink Star, Baltic Princess, SuperstarTallinn: Reisisadam D-terminal

Helsinki: Länsi Terminal

Viking Line Helsinki Bookings Tel.

+358 6 004 1577 (1.64 €/

received call+local call cost),

Tallinn Tel. +372 6 663 966

Tallinn A-terminal, Helsinki

Katajanokka

Finnairwww.finnair.ee. Tallinn

+372 6 266 310, +372 6 266 309

Helsinki–Vantaa Airport

+358 600 140 140 (3.04 €/

received call+local call cost)

Helsinki–Tallinn07.30–09.30 Tallink Star/Superstar

08.00–09.30 Lindaline (M–Sa)

08.00–11.00 Nordlandia (M–F)

09.00–12.00 Nordlandia (Sa)

10.00–11.30 Lindaline

10.30–12.30 Tallink Star/Superstar

10.30–13.30 Nordlandia (Su)

11.30–14.00 Viking XPRS

12.00–13.30 Lindaline

13.30–15.30 Tallink Star/Superstar

(We–M)

14.00–15.30 Lindaline

16.30–18.30 Tallink Star/Superstar

17.00–18.30 Lindaline

18.30–22.00 Baltic Princess

19.00–20.30 Lindaline

19.30–21.30 Tallink Star/Superstar

20.00–22.30 Viking XPRS (Su)

20.15–23.30 Nordlandia (Su)

21.00–22.30 Lindaline (F–Su)

21.00–00.15 Nordlandia (M–F)

21.30–00.00 Viking XPRS (M–Sa)

22.30–00.30 Tallink Star/Superstar

Tallinn–StockholmTallink departs everyday at 18.00

Таllinn-Helsinki07.30–09.30 Tallink Star/Superstar

08.00–09.30 Lindaline (M–Sa)

08.00–10.30 Viking XPRS

10.00–11.30 Lindaline

10.30–12.30 Tallink Star/Superstar

12.00–13.30 Lindaline

13.00–16.30 Baltic Princess

13.30–15.30 Tallink Star/Superstar

(We–M)

15.00–16.30 Lindaline

16.00–19.15 Nordlandia (Su)

16.30–19.00 Viking XPRS (Su)

16.30–20.00 Nordlandia (M–F)

16.30–18.30 Tallink Star/Superstar

17.00–18.30 Lindaline

17.30–20.45 Nordlandia (Sa)

18.00–20.30 Viking XPRS (M–Sa)

19.00–20.30 Lindaline

19.30–21.30 Tallink Star/Superstar

21.00–22.30 Lindaline (F–Su)

22.30–00.30 Tallink Star/Superstar

00.30–06.40 Nordlandia (M)

01.00–06.40 Nordlandia (Tu–F)

01.00–07.00 Nordlandia (Sa)

Tallinn–St. PetersburgSt. Petersline “Princess Anastasia” Su 18.00

The first 15 minutes of parking are free when

using a parking clock.

The 15 minute free parking does not apply

in parking lots.

Parking tickets can be purchased from a

kiosk or in select stores. Parking tickets must

state the year, month, day, hour and minute

of purchase.

Shopping malls are equipped with an

automatic teller that accepts coins. In Tallinn,

most parking lots are paid.

Parking fines vary. Failure to pay for park-

ing may result in a fine of 20. If the parked

car is obstructing traffic, the fine will be 64

with the possibility of it being towed. In this

case, please contact the city police 14410.

Unpaid fines do not go away, even if you are

overseas. Unpaid fines may triple in value.

Parking Fees

■ Tallinn Parking 15 min / 0,26€

Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15.

Free on Sundays.

■ City Centre 15 min / 0,58€

Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15.

Free on Sundays.

■ Old Town 15 min / 1,15€

Payment required 24h, 7 days.

Ferry ScheduleFerry Schedule

■ Customs RegulationsVisitors from EU countries may

carry unlimited amounts of

tobacco products into Estonia.

ALL TOBACCO PRODUCTS MUST

DISPLAY HEALTH WARNINGS.

IN THEIR ABSENCE, THE FOLLOW-

ING RULES APPLIES:

200 CIGARETTES OR 200G

OF LOOSE TOBACCO

Cars or motorcycles enter-

ing Estonia may carry up to 10L of

petrol in regulation containers.

Drugs may not be brought

into Estonia without permission.

Live animals and plants as well

as rare animal and plant species

and so forth, also require special

permission. Firearms and other

weapons are prohibited.

Pirated materials are

prohibited.

See also http://www.emta.ee/index.php?id=1089Customs Information

Tel. +358 20 690 600

22Tartu

TALLINN

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 traffic in estonia22Tartu

TALLINN

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2

■ Airport and Port TransitGetting to the PortThe distance between the Viru

Centre and the port is about

1 km. Bus no. 2 goes to the port.

It passes by the airport. The

Mõigu Bus Line passes through

the port. For more information

and timetables http://soiduplaan.

tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ab. The Viru

Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa.

Tickets are available on the bus

for 1.60€ or from R-kiosks for 1€.

Free Bus from the PortThe Viking Line offers a free shut-

tle service to and from the city.

The bus stop is Mere puies tee,

opposite the Viru Centre. The bus

departs at 14.15, 14.30 and 14.45.

Rocca al Mare Prisma has a free

bus that passes through the port

terminals everyday between

10–17. Please consult the web-

site for departure times: www.

prismamarket.ee/prismabuss.

php?lang=fin

Getting to the AirportThe distance between the Viru

Centre and the airport is 4 km.

The no. 2 bus goes to the airport.

The exact schedule can be found

at http://soiduplaan.tallinn.

ee/#bus/2/ab. The Viru Centre bus

stop is A. Laikmaa and the airport

stop is Lennujaam. Tickets are

available on the bus for 1.60€ or

from R-kiosks for 1€.

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2 23

?T

V

■ Useful Phrases

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, 10119, TallinnTel. +372 644 2282

Mustamäe Medical CentreEhitajate tee 27, TallinnTel.+372 659 8318

Keskhaigla Medical CentreRavi 18, TallinnTel. 1900, +372 622 7070

■ Post OfficeTallinn Post OfficeNarva mnt 1, 10111, TallinnOpen M–F 8–20, Sa 9–17Tel. +372 617 7037

■ Tallinn Shopping Centres Hours of OperationRocca Al Mare Shopping CentreCentre Open 10–21Prisma Open 8–23

Kristiine Shopping CentreCentre Open 10–21Prisma Open 8–23

StockmannOpen M–Sa 9–20 (Groceries and Cosmetics 9–21), Su 10–20

Tallinna kaubamajaOpen everyday 9–21, Grocery store open 9–22

Viru Shopping CentreOpen everyday 9–21, Grocery store open 9–22

Mustika Shopping CentreOpen M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–18Prisma Open 8–23

Ülemiste Shopping CentreOpen 10–21, Grocery store open 9–22

Norde CentrumOpen 10–21, Grocery store open 8–22

SadaMarketOpen 8–19

Foorum Shopping CentreOpen M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–19

SolarisOpen 10–21, Grocery store open 9–23

■ Currency ExchangeBanks will exchange currency for a small commission.

TavidKristiine Shopping CentreEndla 45, Tallinn. M–Su 10–21

Järve SelverPärnu mnt. 238, TallinnM–Su 10–21

Rocca Al Mare Shopping CentrePaldiski mnt 102, TallinnM–Su 9–21

Sikupilli Prisma Tartu mnt 87, Tallinn

LõunakeskusRingtee 75, Tartu. M–Su 10–21

EurexViru KeskusViru väljak 4, Tallinn. M–Su 9–21

Mustakivi Shopping CenterMahtra 1, TallinnM–Sa 10–20, Su 10–18

KaubamajakasPapiniidu 8/10, Pärnu. M–Su 10–20

please ...........................................palunthank you ...................................aitäh, tänanexcuse me ..................................vabandagehello..............................................tere, tervistgood morning ..........................tere hommikustgood day.....................................tere päevastgood evening............................tere õhtustgood night .................................head öödgoodbye .....................................nägemist, head aegaall the best..................................kõike head, kõike paremathave a good trip .......................head reisibon appetite ............................. jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ............terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab?Do you have…? .................................. kas teil on? on teil?where is… ............................................ kus on…What is this?......................................... mis see on?What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab?How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate?How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb?not bad .................................................. pole viga!nice to see you/to meet you .......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtudait was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvudaWhat time is it? ................................... palju kell on?I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keeltDo you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt?/Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

1 January –New Year’s Day

24 February –Independence Day

Easter Good FridayEaster Monday;1 May – Spring Holiday;

Pentecost;

23 June – Victory Day;

24 June – Midsummer’s Day;

20 August – Re-independence Day;

24 December – Christmas Eve;

25 December – Christmas Day;

26 December –

Boxing Day

The work day preceding

New Year’s Day,

Independence Day, Victory

Day, and Christmas Day is

reduced by three hours.

School Breaks17–25.3. Spring Break

6.6.–31.8. Summer Break

22.–30.10. Autumn Break

23.12.–8.1. Winter Break

Holidays

How to make a phone call in Estonia, from Estonia, to Estonia

With a mobile phone from Estonia to outside the country:

+ (country code)(phone number)

When calling Estonia enter country code +372 then the

phone number. For example +372 6 666 666.

When calling within Estonia the country code may be

omitted. For example, 777 7777. Russia’s country code is +8,

Estonia +372.

WIFI Networks

When travelling in Estonian please consult www.wifi.ee for

wireless hotspots. At the end of September there were 1136

wireless networks listed.

In Tallinn, the city is divided into several sections. In the

city centre, 185 hotspots can be found, and most of them are

marked in green, meaning that they can be used free of charge.

The Viru Shopping Centre, as well as many hotels and bars

also offer free connections. In some places, a password may

be required to access the free network.

Many cities including Tallinn, offer their guests and resi-

dents free connections. These can be found on the website

listed above.

If you are in need of a constant internet connection, it is

advised to purchase a pre-paid plan from a mobile company.

Event Tickets

Tickets to Estonian events are sold at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm

and Ticketpro.

Piletilevi (www.piletilevi.ee) The site is in English, Esto-

nian, Russian and Finnish. Purchases require login. Sales

outlets can be found in shopping centres and Statoil stations.

Piletimaailm (www.piletimaailm.com) The website is in

Estonian only and sells theatre tickets. Sales outlets can be

found in theatres and supermarkets.

Ticketpro (www.ticketpro.ee) The website is in Estonian,

English and Russian. Sales outlets can be found in post offices

and at the Solaris Shopping Centre.

Tallinn Card is available at Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks,

Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from

A and D terminals at the Port of

Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn

hotels, www.tallinncard.ee.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullasepa 4,

Tallinn. Tel. +372 6 457 777

Pärnu: Uus 4, PärnuTel. +372 44 73 000

Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare, SaaremaaTel. +372 45 33 120

Hiiumaa: Hiiu tn 1, KärdlaTel. +372 46 22 232

Haapsalu: Posti 37, HaapsaluTel. +372 47 33 248

Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, JõhviTel. +372 337 05 68

Narva: Peetri plats 3, NarvaTel. +372 359 91 374

Otepää: Lipuväljak 13, OtepääTel. +372 766 12 00

Valga: Kesk 11, ValgaTel. +372 766 16 99

Viljandi: Vabaduse plats, ViljandiTel. +372 433 04 42

Võru: Tartu mnt. 31, VõruTel. +372 782 1881

Rakvere: Laada 14, RakvereTel. +372 324 27 34

Rapla: Viljandi mnt. 4, RaplaTel. +372 489 43 59

Tartu: Raekoda, TartuTel. +372 744 2111

Picture: Kaarel Mikkin

AUSTRIA

Vambola 6, 10114 Tallinn

+372 627 8740

BELGIUM

Rataskaevu 2-9, 10123

Tallinn, +372 627 4100

BULGARIA

A. Lauteri 5E, 10114 Tallinn

+372 648 0388

CANADA

Toom-Kooli 13, 10130

Tallinn, +372 627 3311

CZECH REPUBLIC

Lahe 4, 10150 Tallinn

+372 627 4400

DENMARK

Wismari 5, 10136 Tallinn

+372 630 6400

FINLAND

Kohtu 4, 10130

Tallinn, +372 610 3200

FRANCE

Toom-Kuninga 20, 10122

Tallinn, +372 616 1600

GEORGIA

Viru väljak 2, 10111 Tallinn

+372 698 8590

GERMANY

Toom-Kuninga 11, 15048

Tallinn, +372 627 5303

GREECE

Pärnu mnt 12, 10148

Tallinn, +372 640 3560

HUNGARY

Narva mnt 122, 13628

Tallinn, +372 605 1880

ICELAND

Tõnismägi 3A, 10119

Tallinn, +372 640 8711

IRELAND

Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn

+372 681 1888

ITALY

Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn

+372 627 6160

LATVIA

Tõnismägi 10, 10119

Tallinn, +372 627 7850

LITHUANIA

Uus 15, 10111 Tallinn

+372 631 4030

NETHERLAND

Rahukohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn

Tel. +372 680 5500

NORWAY

Harju 6, 10130 Tallinn

+372 627 1000

POLAND

Suur-Karja 1, 10146 Tallinn

+372 627 8206

PORTUGAL

Kohtu 10, 10130 Tallinn

+372 611 7468

RUSSIA

Pikk 19, 10123 Tallinn

+372 646 4175

SWEDEN

Pikk 28, 10133 Tallinn

+372 640 5600

TURKEY

Narva mnt. 30, 10152

Tallinn, +372 627 2880

UKRAINE

Lahe 6, 10150 Tallinn

+372 601 5815

UNITED KINGDOM

Wismari 6, 10136 Tallinn

+372 667 4700

UNITED STATES

OF AMERICA

Kentmanni 20, 10116 Tallinn

+372 668 8100

EMBASSIES

23T

Tartu

TALLINN

www.visitestonia.com

first aid…esmaabi

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 224

Tallinn Museums■ History MuseumsBastion Tunnels (Bastioni käigud). Kommandandi tee 2. Map Code Old Town J1. Underground tunnels beneath Tallinn’s Old Town.

Kiek in de Kök. Kommandandi tee 2. Map Code Old Town J1. Medieval watchtower.

Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum). Müürivahe 33. Map Code Old Town G3. A medieval monastery with monk’s rooms.

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum). Viru väljak 4. Map Code Tallinn B2. Soviet era hotel culture and KGB surveillance room.

Estonian History Museum – Maarja-mäe Castle (Eesti Ajaloo muuseum – Maarjamäe loss). Pirita tee 56.

Estonian History Museum – Suurkildi Building ( Eesti Ajaloomuuseum – Suurkildi hoone). Pikk 17. Map Code Tallinn G2. Both museums showcase

Estonia’s and the Estonian people’s history. The Suurkildi building was renovated in 2011.

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum). Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12. In the suburb of Rocca al Mare, the west end Tallinn museum with a model Estonian village.

■ Other MuseumsAHHAA Science Centre (AHHAA tead-uskeskus). Vabaduse plats, Kaarli pst 2B. Map Code Tartu Old Town J1. Fun for the whole family.

Children’s Museum (Lastemuusem). Kotzebue 16. Map Code Tartu A1. Children’s toys throughout the ages.

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda). L. Koidula 21C. Map Code Tallinn B4. An interactive children’s museum.

Puppet Museum (Nukumuuseum NUKU). Lai 1. Map Code Old Town G1. A museum about the world of pup-

pets at the Estonian Puppet Theatre in Tallinn.

Photo Museum in Tallinn’s old town prison (Raevangla fotomuuseum). Raekoja 4. Map Code Old Town H2. Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square, this museum showcases mod-ern photography exhibits.

Tallinn Science Centre (Tallinna teadus keskus). Põhja pst 29. Map Code Tallinn A2. The wonders of energy and physics.

Estonian Architecture Museum (Eesti arhitektuurimuuseum). Ahtri 2. Map Code Tallinn A2. Estonian architecture, past and present.

Estonian Nature Museum (Eesti Loodusmuuseum). Lai 29A. Map Code Tallinn F2. Estonian flora and fauna.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti meremuuseum). Pikk 70. Map Code Old Town E3. Located in the Paks Margareeta tower and the Seaplane Harbour in Tallinn.

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam). Küti 17. Located on the north shore,

this museum also has the icebreaker ‘Suur Töll’ on display.

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti-ja disainimuuseum). Lai 17. Map Code Old Town F2.

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum). Müürivahe 12. Map Code Old Town I2.

■ Art MuseumsKadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru plats – Kadrioru kunstimuuseum). A. Weizenbergi 37. Map Code B4. Located next to Mikkeli Museum, dis-playing foreign art.

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuse-um). Niguliste 3. Map Code Old Town I1. Located in an old church, this museum has many silver objects on display.

Kumu Art Museum (Kunstimuuseum Kumu). A. Weisenbergi 34/Valge 1. Map Code Tallinn B5. Estonian art museum, designed by architect Pekka Vapaavuori.

ABOUT ESTONIAArea: 45,227 km2.

Population: about 1,350,000.

Capital: Tallinn, population about 400,000.

Independence: 24 February, 1918, Re-independence: 20 August, 1991.

Weather: Average temperature July 16°C, February -9°C.

Time zone: GMT +2

Language: Official language Estonian. Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants.

Religion: Approximately 20 % of Estonians are non-religious, 30 % Lutheran, 28 % Orthodox and 3 % Catholic.

Currency: Euro. Visa, MasterCard, Eurocard, Diner’s Club and American Express are widely accepted.

Electricity: 220 V / 50 Hz, European (Type C) plug.

Cafe AmigoOpen: Thu–SuViru Väljak 4, Tallinn B2www.amigo.ee

Arena 3Open: Fri–Sat. Sadama 6, Tallinn B2www.arena3.ee

BonbonMere pst 6E, Tallinn B2www.bonbon.ee

Butterfly LoungeClosed SundaysVana-Viru 13/Aia 4, Tallinn H3www.kokteilibaar.ee

CathouseOpen: Wed–Su. Viru Väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2. www.cathouse.ee

CellarOpen: Thu–Sa. Laikmaa 5, Tallink Hotel B2. www.hotels.tallink.com

Club Von ÜberblingenOpen: Fri–Sa. Madara 22a, Tallinnwww.uberclub.ee

HollywoodClosed Sundays. Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn I2www.clubhollywood.ee

InfernoOpen: Wed–Su. Viru 24, Tallinn H3www.amneziaclub.ee

KorterRoseni 9, Tallinn A2. www.krtr.ee

PanoraamOpen: Fri–Sa. Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2www.clubpanoraam.ee

ParlamentOpen: Fri–Sa. Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2www.clubparlament.ee

ParteiOpen: Fri–Sa. Rävala *, Tallinnwww.parteiklubi.ee

PrivéOpen: Wed–Sa. Harju 6, Tallinn B2www.clubprive.ee

ProtestMere pst. 6a, Tallinn A2www.protest.ee

Rock CaféTartu mnt. 80D, Tallinn C4www.rockcafe.ee

Sossi KlubiOpen: Fri–Sa. Tartu mnt. 82, Tallinn C4www.sossi.ee

TeaterOpen: Fri–Sa. Vabaduse Väljak 5, Tallinn B2. www.klubiteater.ee

VabankOpen: Fri–Sa. Harju 13, Tallinn J1www.vabank.ee

VenusVana-Viru 14, Tallinn B2www.venusclub.ee

Von Krahl BaarRataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn H1www.vonkrahl.ee

Tallinn Sports Pubs and Restaurants

The following establishments show football as well as other sports.

Clayhills, Pikk 13.Hiiu Pub, Pärnu mnt 325.Mack Bar-B-Que, Tartu mnt 63.Mad Murphy's, Mündi 2.Nimeta Baar, Suur-Karja 4.The Lost Continent, Narva mnt 19.Winners Sports Lounge, Kloostri tee 6.

A Brief History of Estonia

10,000 BC The Ice Age ends and people arrive in the territory of Estonia.

11th Century The main source of subsistence is agriculture and the provincial government is formed.

1200s The Livonian Brotherhood of the Sword is formed in Southern Estonia and the Danish occupy Northern Estonia.

1343 St. George’s Night uprising. Estonian peasants rise up against the occupiers with modest success.

1346 Denmark sells land in Estonia to the Teutonic Order.

1558 Ivan the Terrible of Russia goes to war against Livonia, when Estonia comprised part of Latvia. The war began in 1553 and included Denmark, Sweden and Poland. Estonia and Latvia were divided among Poland (Latvia and Southern Estonia), Sweden (Northern Estonia), and Denmark (Saaremaa).

1600s Schools are set up and the University of Tartu (1632) is under Swedish rule.

1700–1710 The Great Northern War inflicts fruitless years of famine and plague. The population decreases from 350,000 to 100,000.

1710 Tallinn and Uusikaupunki belong to Russia after the Treaty of Nystad.

1800s The power of the Tsar dimin-ishes, serfdom is abolished and peasants are given the right to purchase land (1860). In 1914, half of the land belongs to the German nobil-ity. Political power remains in the hands of the nobility.

1917 With the fall of the Russian Empire, Estonia receives autonomy. Estonia organises elections and Konstantin Päts becomes head of govern-ment.

1918 Germany occupies Estonia. The Estonian Provincial Assembly declares Estonia’s independence on February 24. Estonian forces fight against German and Russian forces.

1919 Estonian War of Independence continues and ends on 02.02.1920 in Tartu.

1920 The first formal law of Independent Estonia is made to expand democracy. Many small political parties are formed.

1929–35 The economic and political crisis of 1929-35 results in a state of emergency and a dis-bandment of the parliament. Päts rules by decree.

1937 A new constitution is written, 1938 Päts becomes president, there is a return to constitu-tional governance, but full democracy is not reached prior to the Soviet occupation.

1939 The German-Soviet Non-Aggression Pact is signed. On September 28, Estonia is forced to allow the Soviet Army to set up military bases in Estonia.

1940 “Elections” are held, after which Estonia becomes a Soviet Republic (27.7.) and merges with the Soviet Union.

1940–41 The Germans occupy Estonia. Nearly 70 000 Estonians join the German army. In September 1944, the Red Army sweeps in on Estonia again.

1944–91 Estonia is Soviet Estonia. Near the end of 1944, a large part of the population flees abroad. About 10,000 men (The Forest Brothers) will con-tinue to fight.

1948–25,000 Estonians are deport-ed to camps in the east. In 1940 the Estonian population was estimated at 1.1 million, but by 1949 it had decreased to 850,000.

1955 Over 200,000 non-Estonians move to Estonia. In 1980, more than 60% of the population is Estonian.

1987 An attempt is made by Estonians to break from the Soviet Union. There are demonstrations, including the environmental campaign against opening large phos-phorus mines in Virumaa.

1988 The Singing Revolution, Estonia declares its sover-eignty on 16.11.1988.

1991 Estonia regains independence on August 20 after the failure of the coup d’état in Moscow.

2004 Estonia joins the European Union and NATO.

2011 The Euro replaces the Crown, used since 1992 as currency.

The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).

1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League.

1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided amongst princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town.

1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish.

1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn.

1918 Estonia declares independ-ence and Tallinn becomes its capital.

1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn.

1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics.

1991 Tallinn becomes the Estonian capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

Tartu

TALLINN

Tallinn Sightseeing

Tallinn TV Tower

Tallinn has a vibrant nightlife. The city has many kinds of clubs and pubs, fancy or casual. There is something for everyone. Be sure to check out individual club websites for upcoming gigs.

Tallinn Nightlife

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City of Tallinn

24Tartu

TALLINN

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 124Tartu

TALLINN

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 2 Tallinn and Estonia

IN THE OLD TOWN:

■ The watchtowers of Suur-Kloostri and Väike-Kloostri allow access to Nunna Tower and from there, access to Sauna Tower and Kuldjala Tower.

■ Town Hall Square (Raekoda). Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

■ Built in 1246, St. Catherine’s Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn.

■ Mustapeade House. Built in 1399 for the Brotherhood of Blackheads and is Tallinn’s only renaissance building.

■ The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe’s oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location in the Town Hall Square.

OUTSIDE OF THE OLD TOWN:

■ Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn)Kloostrimetsa tee 58 A, Tallinn, tel. +372 57 503 650 E-mail: info@teletorn.ee www.teletorn.ee Open everyday May - September 10–19, Open October - April W - M 10–18, Closed Tuesday. The restaurant is open everyday May - September 10–23, October - April 11–23.

■ Freedom Square (Vabaduse väljak). This square holds great symbolic importance and is located just south of the Old Town. The pillar located at the edge of the square, consists of a large pedestal with the Cross of Liberty (Vabadusrist) placed on top. This monument reads: “Estonian War of Independence 1918–1920”. On its other side in a the Freedom Bell (Vabaduse kell).

■ Kadriorg Park. This area houses the Presidential Palace and the palace of Peter the Great, where today the

KUMU Art Museum stands. There are plenty of other things to see as well, in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace head straight along the park trail to the Rusalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland.

■ The Tallinn Song Festival Grounds (Tallinna lauluväljak). Built in 1960, this amphitheatre can hold more than 30 000 singers. These grounds played an important part of the process that led to the restoration of Estonian independence, the initial phase in the Singing Revolution.

■ The Ruins of St. Bridget’s Convent (Pirita Klooster). Located near Pirita Beach, this monastery was built in 1407 during the Swedish occupation. The convent was destroyed by Ivan the Terrible’s troops in 1577.

■ The Tallinn Botanical Gardens. 4,500 varieties of plants and 123 hec-tares of greenhouses, and parks, the Botanical Gardens are an oasis in the summer and winter.

■ Tallinn Zoo. Approximately 90 hectares, this zoo houses many rare species as well as many large mam-mals, including elephants, polar bears, chimpanzees and rhinoceros. Located opposite the Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre.

Foto: Andrei Chertkov

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Tallinn city transportation tickets can be purchased in advance from kiosks or directly from the driver. One hour, three-day and five-day tickets are available. Tickets must be validated at the beginning of the journey. Persons travelling without a ticket are subject to a 40€ fine. Persons 65 years of age or older may ride for free.

Further information on routes and timetables:http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#plan/

TICKETS AND ROUTES

TALLINN CITY TOURTake a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages.Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

Red Line - City CentreGreen Line - PiritaBlue Line - Rocca al MareTour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets start at 13€.www.citytour.ee

AIRPORT - CITY CENTER BUS No. 90KThis is the best way to travel between the airport and the city centre. These blue buses are easily recognised with the airplane ticket image on the outside. There is space for luggage. The bus stops at various hotels, main attractions and the Tallinn port. Tickets 2€. www.hansabuss.ee, http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#bus

tram routes

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RAILWAYSTATION

Tallinn and Estonia

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Haldusjaotus on seisuga 01.04. 2007

KARKSI-NUIA

LIHULA

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©Regio 2008 KL-8-026

DISTANCESMajor Estonian Towns

HAAPSALU175 IKLA347 288 KOIDULA

84 148 335 KUIVASTU 158 221 408 73 KURESSAARE

56 228 403 121 106 KÄRDLA312 349 267 357 431 368 NARVA108 67 253 81 155 161 291 PÄRNU199 235 222 245 318 256 167 178 RAKVERE

9 180 356 90 163 47 321 114 208 ROHUKÜLA99 193 285 144 218 155 211 128 99 108 TALLINN

249 209 100 255 328 305 178 174 123 258 186 TARTU204 131 173 177 250 257 235 96 149 210 159 78 VILJANDI300 227 62 274 347 353 248 192 194 306 253 71 124 VÕRU

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90K

MAP OF ESTONIA

@

-10%

DISCOUNT

4,95 €

Every day 8:30-11:00