11Olive Magazine - October 2014

From Edinburgh to Cornwall THE BEST SUNDAY LUNCHES IN THE UK

• FRENCH ONION TART• RUM BABA

LEARN TO MAKE

Easy sharing menu for 4MODERN VEGETARIAN

BOLOGNA’S weekend hotspots

}

OCTO

BER

2014

SHAKER LEMON PIE | SWEDISH BUNS | STICKY TOFFEE GINGER LOAF CHOCOLATE & CARAMEL PEANUT SLICE | SLOE GIN LAYER CAKE

HOT BAKING TRENDS!

HEALTHY UP YOUR FAVOURITES

89NEW SEASON

RECIPES

Skinny lamb stew, mushroom masala tomato & fish tagine, Malay grilled chicken, plus more delicious 5:2 recipes

RICH AUTUMN FLAVOURS* FRAGRANT CURRIES* ITALIAN SAUSAGE & FENNEL LASAGNE* COMFORTING PIES

Try our fall-apart pork vindaloo

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The O test kitchen is a sociable

place. On most days, you’ll find

the team around the tasting table

debating whether there’s enough

chilli in this or too much sugar

in that. It’s somewhere we can

eat lunch together, but first and

foremost a professional working

kitchen with multiple ovens, four fridges,two freezers,

a walk-in larder and four workstations. Even so, it

never seems like there’s tons of space – but wow, does

cookery writer Anna knock up some amazing dishes

here. The same can be said of the home kitchens

we profile this month. Find out how five food pros

make the most of the smallest spaces on page 27.

My own kitchen is tiny, not helped by always

having a well-stocked wine rack – topped up this

month with reds from the new O wine club.

Join now and see in the autumn with a glass

or two of primitivo – see page 75 for details.

Christine Hayes, Editor

This month we’re fuelled by meat, heat and drinking gin neat…

Welcome

GET IN [email protected] @Omagazine

O magazine Omagazine pinterest.com/Omag

All harissas are not made equalThis month, cookery writer Anna has been using extra-fiery Le Phare du Cap Bon

in chermoula tomato and fish tagine (page 58) and roasted merquez on page

101. £1.20 from souschef.co.uk

The woodland botanicalsin new Burleigh‘s Gin, including silver birch, dandelion, burdock, elderberry and iris, are best appreciated in a dry martini. £32.50 from burleighsgin.com

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7 O JULY 2014

THE EDIT

14 TRENDS & RECIPES Chiltern Firehouse’s

sensational crab donuts, what to do with

fermented veg and cooking with black rice

18 PEOPLE & PLACES The street food

takeover, where to eat in Bristol

and the lowdown on Greek cheese

22 SHOPPING Fantastic food-buys from Aldeburgh’s Snape Maltings, elegant salt and pepper grinders

24 DRINKS How to choose a vodka

to suit your palate and the UK’s

best hardshake bars MAKE OUR

COVER RECIPE

OCTOBER 2014 O 7

NEED TO KNOW

11 RECIPE INDEX

27 SIZE MATTERS

Home kitchens where food pros cook

and work

53 SUBSCRIBE TO O Save 25%

69 NEW READER OFFER Introducing the

O Wine Club with a great deal on

food-friendly reds

89 NEXT MONTH’S O

118 READER OFFERS

124 SMALL PRINT

OCTOBER 2014

Contents

COOK weekend36 WHAT’S IN SEASON Pumpkin pie, wild

mushrooms, pheasant, partridge and sloes

44 HOT CAKES Sticky toffee ginger loaf,

spiced pear cake, and chocolate and

salted caramel peanut slice

55 SPICE WORLD Turn up the heat with

these six recipes including chermoula

tomato and fish tagine, Malay grilled

chicken and fall-apart vindaloo

65 MENU OF THE MONTH A relaxed

vegetarian sharing menu from Rawduck

70 LABOUR OF LOVE: RUM BABA

Lulu tests Richard Bertinet’s recipe for her

favourite dessert

72 COOK LIKE A LOCAL: CHENGDU

Szechuan recipes including pork with chilli

sauce and dry-fried prawns

77 BIBO’S TAGLIARINI NERO Make

this spicy pasta dish for friends

78 FRENCH ONION TART Follow our

foolproof step-by-step recipe

41 38 85

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COOK everyday82 JANINE’S CHEAP EATS Italian sausage

and fennel lasagne, and chicken puff pie

91 QUICK FIXES Five fast, after-work ideas

95 SLIMMER DINNERS Skinny lamb stew

and more 5:2 recipes

97 POTATO AND CAULIFLOWER CURRY

Victoria’s wine match

99 3 WAYS WITH SAUSAGES

page 60

FIND

EVERY

RECIPE

YOU NEED! Recipe index

page 11

8 O OCTOBER 2014

Eat EXPLORE enjoy104 PRO VS PUNTER Rebecca Seal and

Tim Alexander review Pavilion

106 SUNDAY SERVICE 10 of the UK’s

best places to enjoy a Sunday roast,

plus recipes to try at home

112 BITESIZE BREAKS Boozy trips to Puglia,

Shropshire, Languedoc and Reykjavic

115 WEEKENDER: BOLOGNA There’s

more to this food-loving city than pasta

116 ON A SHOESTRING: THESSALONIKI

Greece’s gastronomic hot spot on a budget

If you have an iPhone or iPad, you’ll

love our new interactive app with

extra recipes, videos and photo

galleries, plus shopping lists and

bookmarks. Turn to p123 to find out

more and download at the Apple

App Store now for just £2.99.

Lulu’s notes120 Which natural yoghurt should you buy

and what’s in muhammara?

121 Meat-free entertaining and three tips

for making the best Thai green curry

122 Why you need a knife sharpener

and how to season cast-iron pans

125 LEFTOVERS Imaginative ways

to use up ingredients from this

month’s recipes

130 CARDAMOM AND RASPBERRY

SWEDISH BUNS Find the recipe for

our bake of the month on page 122

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EDITORIALEDITOR Christine Hayes DEPUTY EDITOR Lulu Grimes FOOD EDITOR Janine Ratcliffe COOKERY WRITER Anna Glover ART DIRECTOR Gillian McNeill DESIGNER Mike Cutting PICTURE EDITOR Gabby Harrington TRAVEL EDITOR Rhiannon BattenCHIEF SUB/PRODUCTION EDITOR Gregor ShepherdSUB EDITOR Sarah Kingsbury EDITORIAL INTERN Lucy RoxburghWINE RECOMMENDATIONS Christine AustinCOMMISSIONING EDITOR Sophie DeningTo email us, please use [email protected]

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Get our new interactive app

Contents

115122

OCTOBER 2014

O 95

cook everyday

Low-calorie, low-fat and 5:2-diet-friendly mealsRecipes ANNA GLOVER

Photographs ADRIAN LAWRENCE

Coconut chickpea curry

Thai smoked trout salad

Skinny lamb stew

Broccoli, chilli and lemon wholewheat pasta

SlimmerDINNERS

HOT CAKES!London’s Lantana café is famous for its quirky, modern baking – why not cook one of these great-looking cakes this weekend?

Recipes SHELAGH RYAN Photographs KATE WHITAKER

44 O OCTOBER 2014

Sticky toffee ginger loafpage 46

£2.99JUST

FOR MORE RECIPESlulusnotes

.com

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Can it really be worth

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Beverly Wright from Bristol believes her Le Creuset cast iron

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www.lecreuset.co.uk

See what other people are saying about their Le Creuset

and tell us about yours facebook.com/lecreusetUK

For exclusive recipes, baking tips and fantastic competitions visit

www.pyrexuk.com/nationalbakingweek

Pyrex is a trademark of Corning Inc, used by permission

There’s no better time than Pyrex National Baking Weekto set yourself a baking challenge and spend some quality time

with friends and family. 13 - 19 October is the week to whip out your mixing spoons and f re up your oven with Pyrex.

Proudlysupporting

OCTOBER 2014 O 11

Starters, sandwiches, snacks and soups125 Cannellini bean dip

121 Carrot & cumin soup with coriander

14 Crab doughnuts

83 Fiery chickpea & harissa soup

62 Fried aubergine sticks with sumac

& honey

125 Spelt & courgette soup

125 Sumac yoghurt

125 Za’atar houmous with roasted red pepper

Drinks23 Celery & wasabi Bellini

109 Bloody Mary

42 Sloe gin

125 Star anise chai tea

Sides & sauces107 Apple sauce with cider

110 Butter stuffing for a game roast

107 Cauliflower cheese

43 Chicory gratin

108 Crunchy roasties with rapeseed oil

125 Dried porcini mushroom & garlic salt rub

73 French beans

109 Gravy

125 Harissa & cumin seed-roasted carrots

108 Mum’s mint relish

42 Roast pumpkin wedges

74 Sichuan chilli sauce

110 Sticky toffee sauce

16 Black rice with kale and chilli

110 Yorkshire puddings

Breakfast, baking & puddings122 Cardamom & raspberry Swedish buns

51 Chocolate & salted caramel peanut slice

52 Crack cakes

46 Lemon polenta cake

49 Orange & honey cake

38 Pumpkin pie with maple cream

70 Rum baba

VEGETARIAN FREEZABLE

SPICE WORLD 55 HEALTHY IDEAS 95 HOT CAKES 44 CHEAP EATS 82 WHAT'S IN SEASON 36 COVER RECIPE

92 Chicken laksa

60 Malay sambal oelek chicken with hot,

sweet dipping sauce

42 Partridge breast with polenta

42 Partridge salad

40 Pheasant ragu for pasta

42 Pheasant with wine & baby onions

38 Pot-roast partridge with herbed spelt

125 Sticky chicken with star anise & ketjap

manis glaze

Vegetables

125 Black bean chopped salad

66 Blistered tomatoes with borlotti beans,

fennel tops and parmesan

96 Broccoli, chilli and lemon

wholewheat pasta

66 Cauliflower, mint, labneh & pomegranate

42 Chicory with walnuts & gorgonzola

96 Coconut chickpea curry

78 French onion tart

84 Jamaican sweet potato stew

125 Mozzarella, beetroot & preserved

lemon salad

92 Mushroom masala with coriander rice

93 Potato & carrot rösti

97 Potato & cauliflower curry

42 Pumpkin & sage pasta

66 Roasted carrots, goat’s milk yoghurt

& za’atar

66 Turmeric-spiced chickpeas with kale,

garlic yoghurt & burnt lemon

83 Warm roast veg, lentil and barley salad

42 Wild mushroom & chard risotto

39 Wild mushroom koulibiacs

42 Wild mushroom savoury pancakes

85 Yaki udon noodles

68 Shaker lemon pie

42 Sloe gin affogato

41 Sloe gin layer cake

49 Spiced pear cake

125 Stem ginger, rum & raisin ice cream

46 Sticky toffee ginger loaf

MainsMeat

93 Beef & red pepper stir-fry

60 Fall-apart vindaloo with red onion

mint chutney

108 Perfect pork crackling

74 Pork with chilli sauce

101 Roasted merguez sausages, peppers

and tomatoes with pitta & yoghurt

86 Sausage and fennel lasagne

100 Sausage röstis with caramelised

onion gravy

96 Skinny lamb stew

58 Szechuan spice-crusted lamb

skewers with carrot salad

99 White pizza with sausage, broccoli

& fennel

Fish & seafood

77 Bibo’s tagliarini nero with squid, chilli,

tomato & garlic

58 Chermoula tomato & fish tagine

42 Chicory & mackerel salad

92 Chipotle Alaskan salmon salad

14 Crunchy haddock wraps & Mexican slaw

74 Dry-fried prawns

125 Fish in coconut milk with kaffir lime leaves

84 Salmon with sweet mustard glaze

96 Thai smoked trout salad

Birds

58 Chettinad chicken

88 Chicken & leek puff pie

FOR INTERACTIVE RECIPE CARDS GET THE APP page 123

Recipe view Shopping listBookmark

60

SEASONAL RECIPES89QUICK SUPPERS ¥ HEALTHY RECIPES ¥ EASY ENTERTAINING ¥ NEW BAKING

FRAGRANT CURRIES, EASY VEGETARIAN SHARING MENU FOR 4, NEW BAKING TRENDS,

SUNDAY LUNCH HOT SPOTS & BOOZY WEEKEND BREAKS

RICH AUTUMN FLAVOURS

OCTOBERSubscribers’ exclusive cover

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LOVER

the editThis month: Korean bar snacks,

sourdough chocolate and Greek cheeseCompiled by SOPHIE DENING

Photographs ANT DUNCAN

Star recipeCrab donuts

If you only try out one recipe this month, make it these sensational crab donuts from chef Nuno Mendes at

Chiltern Firehouse. London’s hottest spot is now open for breakfast and lunch (when it’s easier to score a table).

chilternfirehouse.com

OCTOBER 2014 O 13

Recipe page 14

Chiltern Firehouse’s crab donuts1 HOUR + PROVING AND STRAINING | MAKES 20

A LITTLE EFFORT

This recipe will give you more dough than you

need for the quantity of crab, but it is essential

to make the dough in a slightly larger quantity

in order for it to be just right. (The leftover

dough can be cut into 5-6cm circles, deep-fried

until golden brown, then coated in sugar for

a sweet treat.)

strong white flour 540g

golden caster sugar 70g

sea salt 2 tsp

instant yeast 1 tsp

eggs 4

lemons 3, zested

butter 130g, thinly sliced

oil for frying

TOMATO BASE

tomatoes 4

garlic 1 clove, chopped

shallot 1, chopped

red chilli ¼, seeded and chopped

sherry vinegar 2 tsp

fish sauce 2 tsp

CRAB MIX

white crab meat 200g

tomato base 40ml (see left)

crème fraîche 30g

basil a small handful, finely shredded

lemon 1, juiced

• Using an electric mixer fitted with the hook

attachment, mix the flour, sugar, salt and yeast

on a slow speed. In a separate bowl, mix

140ml water, the eggs and lemon zest.

• Slowly add the liquids to the flour mix, still

mixing on a slow speed, until a dough forms.

Increase the speed and knead for 10-12

minutes, or until the dough detaches from the

sides of the bowl and looks smooth and elastic.

• Reduce the speed to slow and add the

butter, a slice at a time. Once all the butter

has been incorporated, increase the speed

and knead for a further 5-6 minutes until the

dough looks smooth. Cover the bowl with

clingfilm and put in the fridge for at least

6 hours or overnight.

• For the tomato base, cut the tomatoes

in half and squeeze out the seeds. Grate

the flesh of the tomatoes on a box grater,

discarding the skins.

• Put the grated tomato flesh in a food

processor with the garlic, shallot, chilli, vinegar

and fish sauce. Blend until smooth, season with

salt, then transfer the mix to a muslin cloth and

leave to hang over a bowl for 2 hours.

• Roll out the doughnut dough on a lightly

floured surface until 2cm thick and cut out

5cm circles. Roll each into a ball and put on

a well-oiled baking sheet.

• Fill a deep saucepan halfway with oil and,

over a medium heat, bring the oil to 175C.

Deep-fry the doughnuts, 4 at a time, basting

them constantly with the oil until golden brown

(around 4-5 minutes). Drain on a plate lined

with kitchen paper.

• Combine all the ingredients for the crab,

mix well and season. Make a slice in the

doughnuts, not going all the way through, and

fill with the crab mixture. Sprinkle with a few

sea salt flakes to serve.

PER SERVING 183 KCALS | PROTEIN 6G | CARBS 19G | FAT 9.2G

SAT FAT 3.9G | FIBRE 0.6G | SALT 0.7G

the edittrends & recipes

14 O OCTOBER 2014

SUPERMARKET SWEEP Put together these crunchy haddock wraps with Mexican slaw from Waitrose

Crunchy haddock wraps with Mexican slaw20 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY

Cook a pack of haddock fillets in a mixed seed crumb (£3/260g)

following pack instructions. Slice into strips and pile into some toasted

tortilla wraps (£1.20/8) with a few round lettuce leaves (60p/1).

Toss a tub of Mexican slaw (£1.99/160g) with the chipotle dressing

and divide between the wraps. Add a dollop of soured cream

(62p/170ml) and wrap up to serve.

+£3.71PER PERSON+

+

=

Not all lamb iscreated equal

Campaign fi nanced with aid from the European Union and Hybu Cig Cymru– Meat Promotion Wales (HCC)

My great, great, great, great, great grandfather taught me that the only way you can create beautiful Welsh Lamb is to use the best of everything. The fi nest grass, sharpest sheep dogs and best kept husbandry secrets. No wonder it’s been awarded PGI status, the highly sought-after marque which guarantees that you are buying a premium quality product.

Discover the difference for yourself, try some juicy Welsh Lamb chops, tender meatballs or a sizzling stir-fry – all ready in under 20 minutes.

To fi nd out more about PGI, or for recipes and information, visit eatPGIwelshlamb.com

Food editor’s shortcutJanine Ratcliffe’s favourite buys

Gallo Expresso Venere black riceBeautiful wholegrain rice, naturally black, with a nutty, sweet flavour. This express pack just needs heating through in a pan or microwave, so makes a quick supper. Cook some shredded, blanched kale in a pan with a crushed clove of garlic and a chopped chilli. Stir through the rice until heated, then serve topped with a fried or poached egg. (£1.99/Tesco)

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16 O OCTOBER 2014


Noting the rising popularity of sour-spicy

Korean staple kimchi, British chefs and

restaurateurs are doing their own thing with

fermented vegetables. At Rawduck (see our

brilliant veggie sharing menu from them on

page 65), Clare Lattin and her team suggest

one of their house ferments to start an evening

meal, such as miso carrots and nori, and white

cabbage and caraway – keeping healthy

eating, as well as interesting flavours, in mind.

Lee Westcott, head chef at Typing Room, uses

fermented endive in a dish with baby monkish,

broccoli, curry and orange. He says, ‘This is

a good way of enhancing the flavour of

vegetables, adding extra tanginess, and

citrus flavour.’

Quick bitesAs tried in the O test kitchen

Ingenious for road trips and festivals, Lizi’s Granola On the

Go range offers little pouches of cereal and lactose powder

to which you just add water. Spoon included – very space age.

We like the treacle and pecan flavour (£1.29, waitrose.com)

Premium tortilla chip brand

Manomasa has introduced three new

flavours and shapes: green lemon and

pink peppercorn, manchego and green

olive, and tomatillo salsa. All are

gluten-free, using quinoa and masa

flours. (£1.99/160g,

wholefoodsmarket.com)

We’re impressed by the regional flavours of Filippo

Berio Gran Cru, a super-premium line of virgin olive oils

from the well-known producer. Try delicate, fruity Toscano,

the more intense Sicilian Monti Iblei for salads and fish,

or tangy Dauno, from Puglia, for vegetable soups.

(£10/500ml, filippoberio.co.uk/shop)

The handmade sourdough and

sea salt chocolate bar from

Pump Street Bakery blends

ground breadcrumbs from the

Suffolk bakery with single-origin

Venezuelan cocoa to dazzling effect.

(£5.80, pumpstreetbakery.com)

Fermented vegetablesINGREDIENT WATCH

Trend-spotting: Street feast

He calls himself an

‘ad hoc addict’, and

is the brains behind

pop-ups such as Rock

Lobsta and Disco Bistro.

Each month, chef and

DJ Carl Clarke scours

the food world to bring

you the best new trends.

The street food scene in London is

a movement whereby thousands

of people come together in venues,

including a disused goods yard in

Dalston and an old 1980s market in Lewisham.

The atmosphere at these gatherings is reminiscent

of a festival, with great food, drink and DJs.

Some have called them ‘food raves.’

Street Feast was set up in May 2012 by

Dominic Cools-Lartigue in a tiny car park just

off Brick Lane with a handful of traders. A few

years later, he joined forces with restaurateur

Jonathan Downey, and their baby has now

grown phenomenally.

Downey says, ‘People love eating outside when

the weather’s good. Go on any given day and

you’ll be among a wide demographic; most of

the crowd is under 30, but a few nans are seen

munching on a yum bun from time to time.’

Obviously, the food and drink is important,

but so is the vibe. When you put great food,

drink and music in one space,

you are on your way to creating

a brilliant night.

It’s not just Street Feast drawing

in the crowds, the

movement’s

spreading with

street-food markets

in Leeds,

Manchester,

Liverpool and

Birmingham, and

then there’s Kerb

street food, too.

Have a look around

your city – if there’s

nothing happening

yet, there will be!

@ccDISCOBISTRO

@StreetFeastLDN @Kerb_

FOR MORE FROM CARL

lulusnotes .com

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18 O OCTOBER 2014

the editpeople & places

STRAND DINING ROOMS This recently-opened British all-dayer has views

out to Nelson’s Column from the dining room

at the front, and a gentlemen’s club-atmosphere

in the rear. Daily specials focus on traditional

British dishes, such as Welsh rarebit, £8.50, for

starters; homemade sausages with mash, bacon

and onion gravy, £14, for mains; and rhubarb

egg custard with shortbread for pudding, £6. It’s

good for afternoon tea, from £21, or cocktails

too, such as Fübarb Fizz (fennel-infused Harris

gin, Kümmel Wolfschmidt liqueur, rhubarb

syrup, rhubarb bitters and club soda, £9.

MUST ORDER Dorset crab salad with house

mayonnaise and citrus radish salad, £14.50;

line-caught cod with chive mash, poached

eggs and Innis & Gunn ale sauce, £16.

thestranddiningrooms.com

Follow Omagazine on Instagram for more

of the latest restaurant dishes, as well as test

kitchen and shoot snapshots.

FORGE On Cornhill, opposite the Bank of England,

is Forge, a cocktail bar, music venue and

barbecue restaurant. With stripped-back

industrial décor, affordable cocktails and bar

snacks such as horseradish onion bhaji, £3.50,

it’s not the usual City scene. Sit back and watch

the chefs barbecue in the open kitchen as you

order starters such as pig and fig terrine, £5.50,

or duck egg and chive mayonnaise, £6.50;

and mains such as cider belly pork, £13,

or half a spiced, spit-roast chicken, £11.50,

from ‘the pit’ or ‘the spit’ sections of the menu.

MUST ORDER Jacob’s ladder: beef short ribs

served with mustard mayonnaise, £6; 20oz

tomahawk steak for two, £50.

forgedinlondon.com

STEPHEN ST KITCHENThis airy modern brasserie stretches over the

ground floor of the BFI offices in Fitzrovia. Head

chef Mark Block was previously at Grain Store,

and it shows in the imaginative menu. Try the

wood-fired oven specials, such as the slow-

cooked pork belly, £15.50. Cocktails include

the White Terroir (St George Terroir gin,

Mandarine Napoleon, dry vermouth), £8.50.

MUST ORDER Free-range chicken, romesco

sauce, wood-roasted leeks, £16.50; sea trout

Vietnamese salad, Asian dressing, £15.50.

benugo.com/restaurants/stephen-st-kitchen

TABLE HOPPING

TO SEE A VIDEO OF

STREET FEAST. GET THE APP!

See page

123

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20 O OCTOBER 2014

the edit

people & places

BIRCH, BRISTOL‘Birch is pretty much my perfect place to eat.

It is owned and run by Sam Leach and Beccy

Massey: Sam cooks; Beccy runs front of house.

The interior is bright and basic, and the service

is friendly, relaxed and incredibly efficient.

Sam’s menu is short, simple and seasonal. This

summer, they served delicious asparagus with

cider butter and hazelnuts. They make their own

butter and sourdough bread, and grow lots on

the menu in their allotment. Average spend

without wine is £50.’

(birchbristol.co)

Anywhere but LondonTOP TABLES OUTSIDE THE CAPITAL

Elly Curshen is the owner of Pear Café in Bristol.

On her day off, she heads to Birch

Opso is a Greek-

inspired, all-day dining

restaurant in

Marylebone, London.

The menu features small

plates for sharing,

including modern interpretations of classics such

as taramas cream with olive crackers; fish

burgers in squid-ink buns, and loukoumades

– thyme honey-infused doughnuts with shaved

walnut and kaimaki (super-stretchy, extra-

creamy) ice cream. Owner Andreas Labridis

guides us through one of the restaurant’s key

ingredients – cheese. opso.co.uk

• We Greeks love cheese – we have the

highest consumption of cheese per capita

in the world, at around 22 kilos per person

annually. In fact, Greek mythology credited

the god Aristaeus with the discovery of cheese.

• Feta is the best known, and has Protected

Designation of Origin. It is produced in a

traditional way in parts of mainland Greece, as

well as some of the islands. Feta is made from

sheep’s milk or from a mixture of sheep’s and

goat’s milk. Although it is savoury and salty, it

works really well with sweet jams, chutneys

and fruit. Watermelon and feta salad sprinkled

with Greek basil is delicious. At Opso, our feta

is barrel-matured and served with sourdough.

• There are at least 60 other kinds of cheese

made in Greece, ranging from soft and mild

to hard yellow and naturally fermented. On

our cheeseboard, we feature cow’s milk cheese

such as manouri, produced in central Greece,

and graviera, from the island of Naxos. We

add a sour cherry spoon-sweet, which is a

traditional fruit preserve, served on a spoon,

to add sweetness and texture to the cheese.

• We are most proud of our fried metsovone,

a smoked cheese made from cow’s (or cows

and goat’s) milk.We deep-fry it and serve it

with rhubarb jam.

The ingredients I can’t

live without are spices,

especially za’atar, as well

as tahini, garlic, olive oil,

lemon and salt.

My most used cookbooks

are everything by Greg

and Lucy Malouf.

I love eating out at 40

Maltby Street for its simple,

produce-led menu; The

Clove Club for buttermilk

chicken with pine salt at

the bar; Royal China for

yum cha on Sundays; Koya

for udon and small plates;

The Delaunay for old-school

dining; and Bocca di Lupo

for Italian small plates,

followed by ice cream over

the road at Gelupo.

I’m most inspired by Mexico

just now. I travelled around

the country for three weeks

last year and became

obsessed with ceviche,

mescal, chilli, chocolate

and moles – hence the

Arabica chocolate pot

with Anatolian clementine,

olive oil and urfa chilli salt.

I know it’s wrong, but

I love scampi fries with

a pint of ale at a

traditional country pub.

One of the easiest things

to make at home is baked

potatoes. I score potatoes

with a knife, bake in a

medium oven until starting

to soften, then rub the skin

with olive oil, salt and black

pepper. When the skins

are crisp, I cut them open,

drizzle with olive oil, add

thick yoghurt, chopped

spring onions, green chilli,

parsley and a sprinkle

of Arabica dukka.

This month we talk to James, founder and chef of Arabica

Bar & Kitchen in Borough Market, which specialises in

Levantine-inspired meze and cocktails, and the driving force

behind Arabica Food & Spice Company, in Borough Market,

Real Food Market, and Broadway Market. arabicabar

andkitchen.com; arabicafoodandspice.com

PEOPLE WE LIKE

James Walters

Cheat sheetGreek cheese

to the customer

This 50p coupon may be used as part payment towards your next purchase of any Mission Deli Wrap pack product. One coupon per person. Coupon must be presented at time of purchase , can only be used once and must be surrendered upon use. Not to be used in conjunction with any other of er, promotion, discount or other coupon. Only original and undamaged coupons accepted. Void if reproduced, altered or tampered with. Not for sale or auction. Not available online. valid until: 01/11/14

to the retaiLER

Mission Deli will redeem this coupon at the value of 50p provided it has been taken as part payment towards any Mission Deli Wrap pack product in accordance with the Customer terms. Mission Deli reserves the right to request proof of purchase or to refuse redemption of defaced or damaged coupons or those that have not been correctly redeemed as per instructions. Send coupons to Valassis, PO Box 6199,

Nuneaton CV11 9HQ. within 3 months of the Customer validity date.

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50P OFF

9 913811 480507

Made with olives picked, rather than

shaken off the tree, Racalia cold-pressed

olive oil smells of freshly mown grass, and

has a peppery finish. It is delicious on spelt

bread from Pump Street Bakery, or used

to liven up a radicchio and fennel salad.

(£6.40/250ml)

On a cold evening,

cook chilli con carne,

and add Capsicana

habanero chilli

powder, with its

earthy aroma and

tones of cacao.

Heaven in a bowl.

(£2.25/8g)

Snape leaf tea

makes a lovely

rich cuppa. We’ve

been supplied by

the same estate in

Kenya for 30 years.

(£2.25/125g)

Handmade and

delicious, Lauden

chocolates are

individually

wrapped and

decorated with

beautiful

illustrations. My

favourite flavour

is the passion fruit.

(£9.95 for 12)

There are lots of

brittles out there,

many of them rather

hard (and dentist-

worthy), but this

pecan nut brittle is

light and a joy. Give

as a present, or enjoy

with an espresso.

(£2.95/100g)

Friends, Food, FamilyIN OUR GOOD BOOKS

Super-blogger Sasha Wilkins,

of libertylondongirl.com

fame, has great taste, real

character, and is reassuringly

authoritative when it comes to

shopping and cooking. Her

first book Friends, Food,

Family is a collection of

recipes for kitchen suppers,

weekend entertaining, parties,

picnics – and lots of cake.

(£18.99, Quadrille)

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Object of desire Lydia Gathorne-Hardy is food buyer

for Snape Maltings, a collection of shops,

cafés and markets in a converted malt house

near Aldeburgh in Suffolk. Here are some of

her favourite products. snapemaltings.co.uk

Tall, elegant, and tactile, these salt and pepper grinders in sustainable black walnut from T&G Woodware

come with a lifetime guarantee. (About £37 each, johnlewis.com)

BUYER’S GUIDE

This cucumber relish

is tangy, crunchy and

so good you will be

eating it out of the

pot. I love Peter’s

Pickles with cold

meats, or on top of

cheese on toast after

a windy walk on the

coast. (£4.99/300g)

This is a gift that

really does keep on

giving: the Grow

your own shiitake

mushrooms kit. See

the spores grow

overnight, and

harvest them to make

a special risotto.

(From £10)

Toffee apple jam, with

a little cinnamon, is

perfect with rich rice

pudding and a salted

caramel sauce.

(£4.25/200g)

Salt and pepper mills

OCTOBER 2014 O 23


the editdrinks

BOOZE BUY LONDON COCKTAIL WEEK WRISTBAND

From 6-12 October, London Cocktail Week is back. With 200

bars taking part, including O favourites Blind Pig and

Satan’s Whiskers, expect tastings, pop-ups and tours. Buy

a wristband, collect it from the Ketel One Hub (in Seven Dials),

and get involved. £10, londoncocktailweek.com

On the 40th floor of London’s Heron Tower, Duck &

Waffle’s imaginative cocktails, such as Yuzu Martinez

(Bombay Sapphire, vermouths, acid bitters, Yuzu

liqueur) and Snapper (infused Bombay Sapphire,

tomato consommé) are created by Richard Wood.

Here is his twist on a Bellini to make at home.

duckandwaffle.com

Celery and wasabi Bellini10 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY

celery mix 50ml

prosecco 75ml

CELERY MIX (makes enough for 5)

celery juice 140ml

cucumber juice 15ml

cloudy apple juice 75ml

sugar syrup 20ml

wasabi paste 5-10g

To make the celery mix, juice washed celery until you

have the correct volume, then peel half a cucumber

and do the same. In a jug, mix the vegetable and

apple juices with the sugar syrup and wasabi, adding

more if desired. Strain the mix through a sieve. Put

the celery mix in a champagne flute, top up with

prosecco and gently stir to combine.

Cocktail of the month

BAR HOPPING

If you love the hardshake trend, here’s where you can find more new inspiration

THE HAWKSMOOR, LONDONCashing in on our

sickly love of milky

cornflake leftovers,

The Hawksmoor’s

cornflake milkshake

is served soft or

hard. Hit the new

Knightsbridge outpost

and squeeze one in

after a chateaubriand.

It’s no easy feat,

but that’s not to say

you shouldn’t accept

the challenge.

(thehawksmoor.com)

SANTA CHUPITOS, LIVERPOOLSweet, sticky and sort

of goofy, if you’re not

opposed to a gimmick

or two, you’ll love it

here. We’re talking

squirty cream, milk

bottles and colourful

concoctions. Best of

the milky treats is the

5 dollar shake with

vodka, Chambord,

blueberries and

ice cream.

(santachupitos.com)

THE LANES, BRISTOLThis swish bowling

alley boasts

everything from Ray’s

Pizza and live bands

to DJs. Hard shakes

here are infamous –

try the Kentucky

nut with bourbon.

(thelanesbristol.co.uk)

BARGAIN BOTTLEExquisite Collection

Albariño 2013, Rías

Baixas, Spain,

12.5% (£5.99, Aldi)

Rías Baixas in

Galicia is where the

local albariño grape

produces its most

aromatic wines. This

bottle is terrific

value. Great as an

aperitif, or with

grilled fish.

ALBARIÑOOur wine expert Christine Austin chooses wines to suit your budget

WORTH THE EXTRAMarqués de

Cáceras Deusa

Nai Albariño

2013, Rías

Baixas, Spain, 12%

(£13.49, Majestic)

This wine is intense

and vibrant. It teams

well with scallops,

lobster and prawns,

especially if there’s

garlic butter or chilli.

TWO PRICES

One wine

FOR MORE BAR TIPS,

GET THE APP!See page

123

WILL THE VODKA I USE MAKE A BIG DIFFERENCE TO MY DRINK? While most vodkas carry a generalised

flavour profile, it’s important to choose one

that suits your tastes. Compared to a martini,

in some drinks it matters less which vodka

you use: the stronger the mixers, the less

you’ll taste it. The water source and what

it is produced from are also

key. You’d expect a potato

vodka to have a creamy

mouth-feel, while rye is

usually sharper and dryer.

Reyka uses wheat, for

a creamy vodka with

light spiciness.

Joe Petch is Reyka’s

brand ambassador

reyka.com

Ask the bartender

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OCTOBER 2014 O 27

Size mattersYou don’t need a state-of-the-art kitchen to turn out great food. Here are five (hardly huge) kitchens, where food pros cook and work

Rosie Birkett Food journalist

‘I live in a rented flat, so this kitchen isn’t mine. I’m very happy that it has

a gas hob, but it is very small, so there isn’t enough surface space, and

my extractor doesn’t work, which is a nuisance. But everything in it is

mine, and my favourite appliance is my Cuisinart mini chopper: I really

don’t know what I’d do without it. I also love my pistachio-coloured

KitchenAid. Because of the lack of workspace, I bought a fold-up

Formica table at a market in Kent, which cost £25; I’ve seen similar

selling in London for over £100. My food processor (also Cuisinart)

is amazing, but it’s an absolute beast – too big for a worksurface – so

it sits on top of the fridge. This kitchen worked hard over summer during

my cookbook shoot. It was during the height of a stifling heatwave and

I worked 14-hour days in here, starved of natural light, to get all the

food prepped and some cooked ahead for the shoot. I have even more

respect for professional chefs now.’ (alotonherplate.com)

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28 O OCTOBER 2014

Alastair Hendy Food photographer, writer and shop owner

‘My partner John and I bought this shell space in Shoreditch in 1996

and converted it into a spacious two-level flat. My kitchen functions

brilliantly, it’s a place made to cook in, and I love the free-form nature

of it. There are no fitted cupboards or fitted anything, and my cooker

is brutally industrial. The central work table was salvaged from a school,

stripped, painted in eggshell off-white, and had new handles and a

brushed-steel top added. Make do and mend and you’ll always have

something truly unique and yours. I use a second-hand set of tall office

filing drawers to house utensils, props (for photo shoots) and cutlery,

and there’s a below-stairs walk-in pantry. The vast steamer that sits on

one side of the cooker was custom-made in Singapore (I brought it home

on the plane); it’s not often used, but is handy for a big party. As well

as being my working kitchen for nearly two decades of food shoots

(often featured in O), I’ve cooked in it for parties for more than 100,

for milestone birthdays and made wedding food for friends.’

(homestore-hastings.co.uk)

Uyen Luu Supper club host, food stylist and teacher

‘I feed about 60 people a week at my supper

clubs, and I also use my kitchen as a

cookery school to teach Vietnamese cuisine

and as a photographic studio for food

shoots. I even grow herbs and fruits in pots

here. I love that my kitchen is my desk, my

living room and my dining space. It’s where

I do all my work and where I serve my

food. I love all my appliances, including

my KitchenAid, but I couldn’t live without my

Cuisinart temperature-control kettle for

making noodles, and my Beko American

fridge/freezer is like another room in itself.

I love my worktop, but I wish there was

enough space for an island and more

storage. Pull-out drawers mean I can find

ingredients easily without digging all the

way to the back of the cupboard, but my

massive stock pot doesn’t fit anywhere,

so I have to put it on top of the stove,

or sometimes in another room altogether.’

(uyenluu.com)

OCTOBER 2014 O 29

need to know my kitchen

OCTOBER 2014 O 31


Todd Schiller Research and development chef at Whole Foods Market

‘We own a beautiful 18th-century farmhouse back in the States,

but we’ve rented a flat here in London. The best feature of this

kitchen is that it opens up to the garden, which is great for

entertaining. I use the oven and a roasting pan all the time. I like

the ease of roasting: living in the city takes its toll, so easy meals

are a must for a working chef’s sanity. I love the white porcelain

farmhouse sink: it’s nostalgic, looks great with the wooden

countertops, and is deep enough to hide dirty dishes while

cooking. I’ve turned the Ikea storage in the office off the kitchen

into a pantry: food storage takes precedence over living space

– we have the same set-up in the States. My smoker is pretty

awesome; it lives out in the garden in all weathers. Whenever

I put a big chunk of meat in it for smoking, I feel instantly more

manly. The only thing more macho would be if I killed the meat

myself, then wrapped it in bacon! We celebrate Thanksgiving

in this kitchen, cooking a classic, vast American turkey feast with

all the trimmings for friends.’ (wholefoodsmarket.com)

OCTOBER 2014 O 33


Lulu Grimes O’s deputy editor

‘We knocked down a small old kitchen and smaller dining room to

make this one space, which left no money to buy the new fittings. The

units and gas hob are from Ikea, and the builders made the concrete

top for me very cheaply on site. It shows every stain – a bit like a

garage floor – but that’s what I like about it. My favourite piece of kit

is the De Dietrich pop-up extractor that sits behind the hob and

remains hidden until I need it. My Kenwood stays out as I use it often;

everything else is piled into drawers (kitchen drawers are so much

better than cupboards), and I own far too much bakeware, which

is crammed in above the ovens. My paella pan won’t fit anywhere,

though, so it lives on the back wall of our tiny outdoor space. I use

this kitchen every day, we live in it as a family, I test my recipes here,

do the odd food shoot and throw parties. It looks much cleaner

in this picture than it normally does…’ (lulusnotes.com)

FOR MORE

KITCHEN

PHOTOS GET

THE APP!

See page

123

•

PROTECTED

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Malay sambal oelek chicken with hot,

sweet dipping sauce

page 60

OCTOBER 2014 O 35

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Melting onion,

pine nut and

curd cheese tart

page 51

Relaxed recipes to make when you have a spare afternoon to spend in the kitchen, or for friends

weekendCOOK

CHERMOULA FISH TAGINE | SHAKER LEMON PIE | PHEASANT RAGU SZECHUAN SPICE-CRUSTED LAMB | RUM BABA | FRENCH ONION TART

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cook weekend

seasonal

Pot-roast partridge

page 38

Make the most of pumpkin, pheasant, chicory, partridge, and wild mushrooms while you can, and make

a new batch of sloe gin Recipes LULU GRIMES Photographs PHILIP WEBB

In season

36 O OCTOBER 2014

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Pumpkin

pie with

maple cream

page 38

OCTOBER 2014 O 37

cook weekend

Wine match Match these robust flavours with the dark plums and truffle notes in Araldica

Barbera d’Asti Superiore 2011, Piedmont, Italy, 14% (£8.99, Waitrose).

Wine match Head for the sun-dried apricot and quince flavours of Vistamar Late Harvest

Moscatel 2013, Limarí Valley, Chile, 12% (£6.49/37.5cl, Majestic Wine).

Pumpkin pie with maple cream1½ HOURS | SERVES 8 | EASY

Choose firmer fleshed, sweet pumpkin such as butternut

squash, acorn or kabocha. The latter is the least sweet.

shortcrust pastry 500g

cinnamon a large pinch

pumpkin 800g, peeled and chopped

single cream 150ml

light muscovado sugar 150g

nutmeg ¼, grated

ground ginger a pinch

eggs 3

butter 30g, melted

double cream 150ml

maple syrup 3 tbsp

• Roll out the pastry and line a 20cm round tart tin, trimming the

edges (keep the excess pastry for decoration). Sprinkle the cinnamon

onto the pastry. Chill for 30 minutes.

• Meanwhile, put the pumpkin, single cream, sugar, nutmeg and ginger

in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Cook gently with the lid half on

for about 20 minutes, or until the pumpkin is tender, then purée the lot

and cool the mixture until warm.

• Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Line the tart case with

baking paper or foil and fill with baking beans, then bake the pastry

blind for 15 minutes. Remove the paper and beans and bake for

a further 5 minutes or until the base is dry and cooked. Turn the

oven down to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4.

• Beat the eggs and butter into the purée and pour it into the case (you

might have a bit of mix left over depending on the depth of your case).

Cut pastry shapes out of the extra pastry, if you like and use them to

decorate the edges of the tart, don’t put them in the centre or they will

sink. Bake for 30 minutes and then check the tart, it should have a slight

wobble in the centre, cook for another 10 minutes if it's too runny.

• Beat the double cream until thick and then beat in the maple syrup.

Serve with the pie.

PER SERVING 585 KCALS | PROTEIN 7.9G | CARBS 54.4G | FAT 36.6G | SAT FAT 16.7G | FIBRE 2.9G

SALT 0.8G

Pot-roast partridge with herbed spelt2 HOURS | SERVES 2 | EASY

partridges 2

olive oil

onion 1 small, finely diced

garlic 1 clove, crushed

celery 1 stick, finely sliced

bacon 2 rashers, finely sliced

thyme 1 sprig

sage 3 leaves

dry cider 100ml

chicken stock 200ml

spelt 100g

apple 1

parsley a handful, finely chopped

chives chopped to make 2 tbsp

mint a handful, finely chopped

• Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Brown the

partridge in a little oil in a small casserole, then add the onion,

garlic, celery and bacon. Stir and fry everything for a couple

of minutes and season well. Add the thyme, sage, cider and

chicken stock and bring the whole lot to a simmer. Put the lid

on and cook for 1½ hours, or until the meat is very tender.

• Meanwhile, cook the spelt in boiling water with a good

pinch of salt, it should take about 20 minutes to cook so that

it's tender but still nutty. Drain and tip into a dish. Peel and

grate the apple and add this to the spelt with the herbs.

Season well and serve with the partridge.

PER SERVING 606 KCALS | PROTEIN 62.3G | CARBS 39.7G | FAT 18.7G

SAT FAT 4.7G | FIBRE 8.2G | SALT 1.4G

38 O OCTOBER 2014

Want more great wine suggestions to match with our

recipes? Join the NEW O wine club on page 69

and get a case of twelve food-friendly reds for just

£71.48, plus free delivery.

Wine match

Pale in colour, with leafy, juicy, cherry fruit Primarius Pinot Noir 2011, Oregon,

USA, 12% (£8.99, Tesco) goes well with these parcels.

Wild mushroom koulibiacs

1 HOUR + COOLING | SERVES 4 | EASY | VEGETARIAN

puff pastry 500g block

butter

leeks 2, finely sliced

cooked basmati rice 1 x 250g pouch

wild mushrooms 300g, roughly chopped


egg 1, beaten

single cream 4 tbsp

Dijon mustard 1 tsp

• Cut the pastry block in half and roll one half out into a neat rectangle.

Cut it into 4 smaller rectangles and lay them on a buttered baking sheet.

• Heat a good knob of butter in a frying pan and fry the leek gently until

it's tender without letting it brown. Season well and tip into a bowl with

the rice. Heat another knob of butter and fry the mushrooms with the

garlic until they are tender and beginning to brown. If lots of water has

come out of the mushrooms then turn up the heat and bubble it off.

Season well, tip into the rice and fold everything together.

• Divide the rice between the pieces of pastry. Roll out the remaining piece

of pastry and cut it into 4 rectangles just bigger than the bases.

Lay a lid on each pastry base and seal the edges. Cut a steam

hole in the lid of each and brush the top with the egg. Chill for

30 minutes, or until 40 minutes before you want to serve them.

• Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Bake the

koulibiacs for 30-40 minutes or until the pastry is browned,

puffed and cooked through.

• Mix the mustard into the cream and spoon a little

carefully into each steam hole and serve the rest on the side.

PER SERVING 690 KCALS | PROTEIN 16.6G | CARBS 65.5G | FAT 39.3G | SAT FAT 18.8G

FIBRE 4.1G | SALT 1.4G

OCTOBER 2014 O 39

cook weekend in season

Wine match Dark cherry fruit and mushroom tones in Caruso e Minini Perricone

2012, Sicily Italy, 14% (£7.99, M&S) partner this autumn dish.

Pheasant ragu for pasta1½ HOURS | SERVES 4 | EASY

chicken stock 250ml

dried porcini mushrooms a handful

pheasant 1

olive oil

pancetta cubes 1 x 80g pack

shallots 2, sliced

garlic 2 cloves, crushed

bay leaf

white wine 125ml

parsley chopped to make 2 tbsp

lemon ½

tagliatelle 400g, cooked to serve

parmesan to serve

• Bring the stock to a simmer, add the mushrooms and leave them to

soak and swell up. Cook the pheasant in some olive oil in a casserole

until it is browned all over, then add the pancetta and brown, stirring

all the time. Add the shallots and garlic and stir for a minute, then add

the bay leaf. Pour in the white wine and bubble for a minute. Add the

stock and mushrooms, season well and bring to a simmer. Put the lid

on the pan, making sure it fits tightly, and cook gently for 1 hour until

the meat starts to fall off the bones.

• Lift the pheasant out (and fish out the bay leaf), cool a little and then

strip the meat off the bones and tear it into pieces. Simmer the stock

until it thickens a little and then add back the pheasant, parsley and

a squeeze of lemon. Toss the tagliatelle with the pheasant ragu

and scatter with parmesan to serve.

PER SERVING 381 KCALS | PROTEIN 37.1G | CARBS 6G | FAT 20.9G | SAT FAT 6.9G | FIBRE 0.7G

SALT 0.9G

40 O OCTOBER 2014

Wine match A few sips of sloe gin go well with this cake. Make your own or buy a bottle of Sloemotion

Sloe Gin, 26% (£17.50/35cl). Check sloemotion.com for the list of 300 UK stockists.

Sloe gin layer cake1 HOUR + COOLING | SERVES 12 | EASY

This is sloe season, so use last year’s sloe gin for this and buy or forage

sloes to make some more for later (see the recipe on 36). Plums are

available later and later as the years go by – use what you can find.

Stick them in the middle of the cake with the butter cream if you prefer.

butter 200g, at room temperature


eggs 4

plain flour 175g

baking powder 1 tsp

ground almonds 90g

buttermilk 100ml

flaked almonds 4 tbsp

FILLING

butter 100g, softened

icing sugar 140g, plus more for dusting

dark purple plums 3-4

sloe gin 150ml


• Heat the oven to 170C/fan 150C/gas 3½. Cream the butter and

sugar until they are light and fluffy, then beat in the eggs one by one,

adding a tablespoon of flour after the first egg. Fold in the flour, baking

powder and ground almonds followed by the buttermilk. Spoon the

mixture into two buttered and lined 18 cm loose-based sponge tins and

sprinkle the almonds over the surface of each tin. Bake for 30-35 minutes,

or until the cakes are risen and golden, then cool on wire racks.

• Meanwhile, beat the butter for the filling until it's light and creamy

and beat in the icing sugar to make a butter cream. Tip the plums into

a pan with the sloe gin and sugar and cook them together until the

plums just soften but hold their shape. Scoop out and cool the plums.

Reduce the liquid to a syrup.

• Sandwich the cakes together with some of the syrup and the butter

cream. Decorate with the plums, a few more almonds and a drizzle

of the syrup.


SALT 0.6G

OCTOBER 2014 O 41

cook weekend

in season

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42 O OCTOBER 2014

Want more ideas?

Also in seasonJERUSALEM ARTICHOKE, FIGS,

ELDERBERRIES, SWEDE

Wild mushrooms Wild mushroom savoury pancakesSERVES 1

Fry 50g chopped wild mushrooms in a

knob of butter with 1 crushed garlic clove

and a thyme sprig for 10 minutes, then add

3 tbsp double cream, a splash of white

wine and season well. Simmer for 5 minutes.

Divide the mushrooms between 2 warmed

crêpes, fold up and top with a little more sauce.

Wild mushroom and chard risotoSERVES 2

Heat 1 tbsp oil with a knob of butter and fry

200g wild mushrooms with the chopped

stems of 150g chard (saving the greens for

later) for a few minutes until golden. Tip into

a bowl. Fry 1 diced onion for a few minutes

then add 200g risotto rice and stir through

so the grains are coated. Add up to 800ml hot

chicken stock in ladle by ladle and simmer

for 15 minutes until the rice is cooked. Blanch

the chopped swiss chard leaves and drain

well. Stir in the mushrooms, the chard and

4 tbsp grated parmesan to serve.

Chicory Chicory with walnuts and gorgonzolaSERVES 4 AS A STARTER

Whisk 2 tbsp oil, 1 tbsp sherry vinegar,

1 tbsp honey and season. Divide 3 heads of

chicory between 4 plates. Scatter with 4 tbsp

toasted and roughly chopped walnuts, 50g

gorgonzola broken into pieces, and a few

chopped chives. Drizzle over the dressing.

Chicory and mackerel salad SERVES 2

Toss together 100g flaked smoked mackerel,

1 shredded chicory head, a handful of

watercress and a few diced and cooked

beetroot. Whisk 1 tbsp groundnut oil,

1 tsp Dijon mustard, 1 tsp red wine

vinegar, juice of 1 orange, 1 finely

chopped shallot and season. Dress and

serve on toasted ciabatta.

Pumpkin Pumpkin and sage pastaSERVES 2

Fry 1 diced onion in 1 tbsp

oil until softened. Add 1

crushed garlic clove, 200g

diced and peeled pumpkin

and fry for 5 minutes. Add

a splash of white wine and

simmer for 10 minutes, then

add 100ml single cream and

simmer for another 10 minutes

until the pumpkin is cooked.

Season well, add a few sage

leaves, and toss through 150g

cooked penne.

Roast pumpkin wedges SERVES 4 AS A SIDE

Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas

6. Cut 6-8 wedges from a small pumpkin

approx 3cm thick and remove the seeds but

keep the peel on. Toss the wedges in 2 tbsp

oil, 1 tsp cumin seeds, 1 tbsp maple

syrup and 1 finely diced chilli. Season, put

on a baking tray and roast for 25-30 minutes.

PheasantPheasant with wine and baby onionsSERVES 4

Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a casserole dish,

brown 1 pheasant and lift out. Fry 8 baby

onions, 2 diced carrots and 1 celery stick

in a little oil until softened. Stir in 1 tbsp flour,

then add 1 bay leaf, ½ bottle red wine,

the pheasant and season. Simmer for an hour

until the pheasant is tender and the sauce has

thickened. Scatter with chopped parsley to serve.

Sloes Sloe Gin MAKES 1 LITRE

Put 500g sloes in a freezer bag and freeze

overnight. Put them in a large jar. Add 1 bottle

of gin (about 1 litre), put the lid on and swirl

it. After a week, add 200g sugar and shake

well. Put the jar somewhere dark but swirl the

contents every day or so until the sugar

dissolves. Leave for 3 months and then strain

the gin into a bottle.

Sloe gin affogato SERVES 2

Pile scoops of vanilla ice cream into bowls,

top with a shot of espresso and ½ measure

of sloe gin. Top with a few flaked almonds

and serve immediately.

PartridgePartridge saladSERVES 2

Rub 2 partridges with olive oil and season

all over. Roast for 20 minutes in a 220C/fan

200C/gas 7 oven until cooked through. Allow

to rest before carving. Whisk 1 tbsp walnut

oil and 2 tsp sherry vinegar with a squeeze

of lemon and season. Toss a few handfuls of

watercress, rocket and spinach with the

dressing and divide between plates. Top with

1 finely sliced pear and the partridge meat.

Top with any carving juices and scatter with

some crumbled stilton.

Partridge breast with polentaSERVES 4

Heat 1 tbsp oil and a knob of butter in pan.

Fry 8 partridge breast fillets skin-side down

for 5 minutes until crisp, then turn and fry for

another 5 minutes until cooked through. Allow

to rest. Fry a pack of pancetta in the same

pan until crisp, then add a few roughly

chopped rosemary sprigs, and scoop out.

Make 250g instant polenta following pack

instructions and divide between 4 plates. Top

with the partridge, and scatter over a few

crispy pancetta cubes and rosemary needles.

Wine match The delicate apple and herb notes in El Cometa del Sur Blanco 2013, Terra Alta,

Spain, 13.5% (£8.99 or £6.74 each when you buy 2 until 27 Oct, Majestic Wine) work

well with this gratin.

Chicory gratin 30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 AS A SIDE | EASY

chicory 4 heads, halved

butter

golden caster sugar 1 tsp

cider vinegar 1 tbsp

double cream 150ml

breadcrumbs 4 tbsp

parmesan cheese grated to make 2 tbsp

• Fry the chicory cut-side down in a large pan with a little

butter until they start to brown. Sprinkle in the sugar, shake

the pan and keep cooking as the sugar and butter start to caramelize

the chicory. Add the cider vinegar and turn the chicory over. Cook for

3 or 4 minutes then add a splash of water, put a lid on and cook gently

for 10 minutes, or until the chicory is tender. Spoon into a gratin dish

or leave in the pan. Drizzle over the cream, sprinkle with crumbs and

parmesan and brown under a hot grill until the top is bubbling and

golden. Rest for 5 minutes


SALT 0.3G

cook weekend

in season

OCTOBER 2014 O 43

Crab claw gumbo with

fiery pepper rouille

page 48

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44 O OCTOBER 2014

cook weekend

baking

HOT CAKES!London’s Lantana café is famous for its quirky, modern baking – why not cook one of these great-looking cakes this weekend?

Recipes SHELAGH RYAN Photographs KATE WHITAKER

44 O OCTOBER 2014

Sticky toffee ginger loafpage 46

OCTOBER 2014 O 45

cook weekend

Lemon polenta cake

page 46

46 O OCTOBER 2014

Sticky toffee ginger loaf2 HOURS | SERVES 8 | A LITTLE EFFORTSometimes you can have your cake and pudding too. This recipe

combines two delicious desserts – sticky toffee pudding and ginger

cake – into one decadent pudding.

pitted dates 200g, halved

bicarbonate of soda 1 tsp

unsalted butter 75g, softened

soft brown sugar 115g

ground ginger 2 tsp

eggs 3

stem ginger 80g (about 4 balls), finely chopped

self-raising flour 225g, sifted

CARAMEL GLAZE

caster sugar 110g

butter 40g

single cream 150ml

• Butter a 900g loaf tin and line the base and ends with a strip of

baking parchment. Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4.

• Put the dates and bicarbonate of soda in a large mixing bowl. Cover

with 330ml of boiling water. Stir and leave for at least 20 minutes.

• In a separate bowl, beat the butter and sugar together until thick and

pale in colour. Add the ground ginger, then the eggs, one at a time,

beating well after each addition.

• Stir in the soaked date mixture (including the water), stem ginger and

flour, and mix until well combined – the mixture should be quite loose.

• Pour the batter into the prepared tin and bake in the oven for

50-60 minutes, until a skewer comes out clean.

• Remove from the oven and let the cake cool in the tin for

10 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack to cool completely.

• To make the caramel glaze, choose a saucepan or pot large enough

to ensure that the sugar is no more than 2mm thick over the base,

otherwise the heat will not distribute evenly through the sugar. Put the

pan over a gentle heat and add the sugar and 1 tsp of water. Heat until

the sugar dissolves into a clear liquid then boil until you have a deep,

golden caramel, Shake the pan rather than stir it with a spoon to avoid

the sugar hardening before it liquefies. Remove from the heat and whisk

in the butter until it has all melted and is well combined.

• Heat the cream in a separate saucepan or a pot set over a gentle

heat, then whisk it into the caramel until smooth and glossy. Put in the

fridge to cool and firm up so that it has a good spreading consistency.

Spread the glaze over the top of the cooled cake and serve in slices.

Lemon polenta cake1 HOUR + COOLING | MAKES 6 | EASYThere is always at least one gluten-free cake on the counter at the café

and this is one of my favourites. I don’t think the fact that it’s flourless

has anything to do with its popularity – it’s just a delicious, lemony treat.

butter 200g, plus extra for moulds


eggs 3

ground almonds 200g

polenta 100g

baking powder 1 tsp

lemons 3, grated and zested

LEMON ICING

lemon 1, juiced

icing sugar 250g

• Butter 6 x 170ml pudding moulds and line the base of each with

a small circle of baking parchment. Heat the oven to 170C/fan 150C/

gas 3½.

• Beat the butter and 200g of the sugar together in a large mixing

bowl, until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well

after each addition. Add small amounts of ground almonds if the mixture

begins to curdle. Add in the remaining ground almonds and beat well.

• Stir in the polenta and baking powder. Add the grated zest and

freshly squeezed juice of ½ a lemon and stir again.

• Divide the batter evenly between the prepared pudding moulds and

put them on a baking sheet. Bake for 20-30 minutes or until a skewer

inserted into a cake comes out clean. Cover with foil for the last 10

minutes if the cakes are getting too brown on top.

• Meanwhile, make a lemon syrup. Put the zest and juice of the

remaining lemons in a saucepan with the remaining sugar over a gentle

heat. Stir to combine and heat until the sugar has dissolved completely.

• Remove the cakes from the oven and prick all over with a skewer.

Pour the lemon syrup over each cake and let it soak through – about

1 tbsp per cake. Let cool in the pudding basins for 15 minutes before

turning the cakes out to cool completely.

• To make the lemon icing, add just enough lemon juice to the icing

sugar to make a spoonable icing. When ready to serve, spoon the

lemon icing on top of cakes and let it drip down their sides.

Recipes adapted from Café Kitchen

by Shelagh Ryan, published by

Ryland, Peters and Small, £16.99

(O readers can buy Café

Kitchen for the special price

of £11.99, including p&p by

telephoning Macmillan Direct

on 01256 302 699 and quoting

the reference GLR K3K).

OCTOBER 2014 O 47

cook weekend baking

Spiced pear cake

page 49

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OCTOBER 2014 O 49

cook weekend

baking

Orange and honey cake1½ HOURS + COOLING | SERVES 8 | EASY

The honey-orange syrup on this cake helps to keep it lovely and moist,

but it is still best eaten the day it is made.

unsalted butter 170g

caster sugar 340g

eggs 3

grated orange zest 2 tsp, plus extra to decorate

vanilla extract ½ tsp

soured cream 300ml

plain flour 375g

baking powder 2 tsp

bicarbonate of soda ½ tsp

SYRUP

clear honey 100g

orange juice 100ml

orange blossom water 1-2 tbsp

TOPPING

butter 85g, softened

icing sugar 250g

vanilla extract 1 tsp

clear honey 1 tbsp

• Butter a 23cm round cake tin and line with baking parchment. Heat

the oven to 170C/fan 150C/gas 3½.

• Cream the butter and caster sugar together in a large mixing bowl,

until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, then add the orange

zest, vanilla and soured cream.

• In a separate bowl, sift the flour, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda

and a pinch of salt. Fold into the butter mixture until just combined.

• Spoon the batter into the prepared cake tin and bake in the oven for

50-60 minutes, or until the cake is springy to the touch and a skewer

inserted into the middle comes out clean.

• Meanwhile, make the orange syrup. Put the honey and orange juice

in a saucepan or pot set over a gentle heat. Simmer for 5 minutes to

reduce the syrup. Stir in the orange blossom water and remove from

the heat.

• Remove the cake from the oven and prick all over with a skewer. Pour

over the orange syrup and let it soak through. Put on a wire rack to cool

completely whilst still in the tin.

• To make the topping, put the butter and icing sugar in a bowl and

beat with electric beaters until combined. Increase the speed and beat

for 3 minutes. Add the vanilla and honey and continue to beat for a

further 1 minute, until smooth.

• When the cake is completely cool, spread the topping over the

surface and decorate with a little extra orange zest.

Spiced pear cake1½ HOURS | SERVES 8 | EASY

You could serve this cake warm as an after-dinner dessert or cold

with a cup of tea or coffee. Try substituting the pears for plums or

rhubarb when in season.

plain flour 250g

baking powder 1½ tsp

bicarbonate of soda 1tsp

ground cinnamon 1½ tsp

ground ginger 1½ tsp

eggs 2

milk 240ml

golden syrup 200ml

clear honey 35g

butter 125g

light muscovado sugar 125g

pears 400g (about 2 large), peeled, cored and sliced

fruit preserve (apricot, apple or plum) 5 tbsp

flaked almonds 3 tbsp, toasted

• Butter a 23cm round or 25cm square cake tin and line with baking

parchment. Heat the oven to 170C/fan 150C/gas 3½.

• Sift the flour, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda, cinnamon and

ginger into a large mixing bowl. In a separate bowl, lightly whisk the

eggs and milk together.

• Warm the syrup, honey and butter very gently in a saucepan over

a low heat. Stir in the sugar and keep on the heat until the butter and

sugar melt together. Remove the pan from the heat and cool slightly.

• Pour the warm syrup mixture into the bowl with the flour mix in and

stir gently using a large, metal spoon. Add the whisked egg mixture and

stir to combine.

• Pour the mixture into the prepared cake tin and drop the pear slices

evenly over the surface – they should sink into the batter.

• Bake in the oven for 45-60 minutes, until a skewer inserted into the

middle comes out clean, checking regularly after 40 minutes. If it looks

as though the cake is getting too brown on top, cover with foil to stop

it burning and return to the oven.

• Meanwhile, melt the preserve in a saucepan set over a medium heat.

Remove the cake from the oven and liberally brush with the preserve

while it is still warm. Sprinkle with flaked almonds and serve.

cook weekend

baking

A weekend to savourJersey bursts with places to enjoy a superb meal or a perfect pint. Michelin-starred places,

where the oysters are so fresh, you can still taste the sea. Coastal places, where gastropubs

and trendy cafés serve crab sandwiches so full, you’ll need the miles of breathtaking beaches

to walk them of ! Country places deep in the island’s lush interior, where cosy inns serving

fresh-from-the-fi eld produce are tucked away. And stylish places where, af er a day

exploring, you can simply relax and enjoy a soothing spa treatment. Add a mild climate,

easy travel by air or sea from the UK and great-value of ers, and you’ve discovered Jersey.

jersey.com

*Return price per person, including taxes, with easyJet from Gatwick. Price correct at time of print.

Flights

£from

51rtn*

Chocolate and salted caramel peanut slice1 HOUR + COOLING + CHILLING | MAKES 24 SQUARES

A LITTLE EFFORT

self-raising flour 180g

shredded or dessicated

coconut 105g

caster sugar 110g

unsalted butter

165g, melted

CARAMEL


soft light brown

sugar 120g

Nestlé caramel

1 x 397g tin

roasted salted peanuts 100g,

roughly chopped

TOPPING

dark chocolate 150g, chopped

double cream 100ml

coarse sea salt to decorate (optional)

• Butter a 20 x 30 cm baking tin and line with

baking parchment. Heat the oven to 180C/fan

160C/gas 4.

• Put the flour, coconut and caster sugar in

a large mixing bowl. Pour the melted butter

over the dry ingredients, mix together and

press firmly into the base of the prepared

baking tin.

• Bake in the oven for about 15

minutes, or until light golden in colour.

Remove from the oven and cool.

• In a separate saucepan or pot

set over a medium heat, melt

the butter with the light brown

sugar, until the sugar has

completely dissolved.

Add the tin of caramel,

reduce the heat and

simmer for 10 minutes until

the mixture has thickened slightly.

• Pour the hot caramel mixture over

the baked base and sprinkle the salted

peanuts evenly across the top.

• To make the topping, melt the chocolate and

cream together in a heatproof bowl set over

a pan of simmering water, making sure the base

of the bowl doesn’t touch the water below. Pour

evenly over the caramel layer and chill in the

fridge for a couple of hours.

• Once set, remove from the fridge and sprinkle

with coarse sea salt if you like. Cut into even

square slices.

cook weekend baking

OCTOBER 2014 O 51

52 O OCTOBER 2014

cook weekend baking

Crack cakes

1 HOUR | MAKES 12 | EASY

While these cakes may look sweet and innocent, they are the most

lusted after and fought over item on the cake counter at Lantana. Lusted

after, because you know that the quantity of frosting cannot be good

for you, so you deny yourself the indulgence of eating one every day.

Fought over, because our chefs can’t bake and ice them as fast as we

can sell them.

plain flour 150g


bicarbonate of soda ½ tsp

baking powder ½ tsp

ground cinnamon ½ tsp

ground coriander ½ tsp

light soft brown sugar 220g

shredded or dessicated coconut 50g

pecans 50g, chopped

sunflower oil 180ml

eggs 2, lightly beaten

tinned pineapple 300g, drained

ripe bananas 2, mashed

pecans or shredded coconut, to garnish (optional)

FROSTING

full fat soft cheese 175g

unsalted butter 120g, softened

icing sugar 440g

vanilla extract a few drops

• Line a 12-hole muffin tin with paper cases. Heat the oven to 170C/

fan 150C/gas 3½.

• Sift the flours, bicarbonate of soda, baking powder and spices into

a large mixing bowl.

• Add the sugar, coconut and pecans, and stir to combine.

• In a separate bowl, mix the oil and whisked eggs together.

• Put the drained pineapple in a food processor and pulse to

fine pieces. Put the fruit in a fine mesh sieve and press out any

excess moisture.

• Add the drained pineapple to the oil mixture with the mashed

banana, then pour into the dry ingredients. Stir gently to combine but

do not beat the mixture.

• Divide the mixture evenly between the paper cases. Bake in the oven

for 25-30 minutes, until a skewer inserted into a cake comes out clean.

Remove the pan from the oven and set the cakes on a wire rack to cool.

• To make the frosting, put the soft cheese, butter, icing sugar and

vanilla in a bowl and beat until smooth with electric beaters.

Spread the frosting on top of the cooled cakes and garnish with

pecans or coconut.

OCTOBER 2014 O 53

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Spice world

Turn up the heat with these fragrant, heady-flavoured recipes from India, the Middle East and Asia

Recipes JENNIFER JOYCE Photographs SAM STOWELL

cook weekend

OCTOBER 2014 O 55

Szechuan spice-crusted lamb skewers with carrot salad

page 58

56 O OCTOBER 2014

Chermoula tomato and fish tagine page 58

OCTOBER 2014 O 57

cook weekend spices

58 O OCTOBER 2014

• Blitz 3 tbsp of oil with all of the chermoula ingredients and a good

pinch of salt in a food processor. Pour half of it over the fish and let it

marinate for 30 minutes to 1 hour. In a large pan, heat 1 tbsp of oil with

the onions and ginger. Season and fry for 10 minutes until soft. Add the

saffron and fry for another minute, then add the remaining marinade,

chopped preserved lemon, tomato purée and stock. Bring to a boil and

then turn down the heat to a simmer for 10 minutes.

• Add the fish to the tagine, along with the new potatoes and tomatoes.

Cook for 5 minutes or until the fish is cooked through. Taste and season

with extra lemon and salt. Sprinkle with extra coriander, and serve with

giant couscous and harissa on the side.

PER SERVING 240 KCALS | PROTEIN 23.2G | CARBS 13.5G | FAT 9.9G | SAT FAT 1.5G | FIBRE 2.7G | SALT 0.4G

Chetinad chicken30 MINUTES + MARINATING | SERVES 6 | EASYA southern Indian curry, fragrant with cinnamon and star anise.

garlic 3 cloves, peeled

ginger 4cm piece, peeled

boneless, skinless chicken thighs 750g, quartered

turmeric 1 tsp

vegetable oil

onions 2, sliced

red chillies 2 thumb-sized, seeded and sliced

tomato purée 1 tbsp

desiccated coconut 3 tbsp, toasted

cinnamon sticks 2

vegetable stock 350ml

SPICE MIX

fennel seeds, cumin seeds, coriander seeds 1½ tsp of each

dried long red chilli 1

star anise 1

• Toast the spice mix in a small frying pan then grind. Purée the garlic

and ginger in a blender with a bit of water. Put the chicken in a bowl

with the turmeric and garlic/ginger paste, and grind black pepper over.

Leave to marinate for 30 minutes or overnight refrigerated.

• Heat 3 tbsp oil, and add the onion and red chilli. Season with salt,

and fry for 10 minutes until soft. Add the chicken, spices, tomato purée,

toasted coconut and cinnamon stick, and fry for 5 minutes. Pour in the

stock and simmer for 30 minutes. Serve with rice or naan.



Szechuan spice-crusted lamb skewers with carrot salad30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY

lamb leg steaks 500g, trimmed and cut into small cubes

sesame oil

soy sauce

Szechuan peppercorns 2 tsp

cumin seeds 2 tsp

chilli flakes 2 tsp

soft brown sugar 3 tbsp

lemon 1, juiced

black or red wine vinegar 1 tbsp

SALAD

carrots 3 large, peeled and julienned

spring onions 3, julienned

coriander a bunch, chopped

red chilli 1, seeded and julienned

• Thread the lamb onto metal or wooden skewers soaked in water. Rub 2

tsp sesame oil and 1 tbsp of soy into the flesh. Put the peppercorns and cumin

seeds in a mortar and pestle, and grind roughly. Add the chilli flakes and

some sea salt, and sprinkle on the lamb. Leave until you’re ready to grill.

• Mix the salad ingredients. In a smaller bowl, mix together 1 tsp

sesame oil, the brown sugar, 3 tbsp soy, lemon juice and vinegar. Mix

well, save a third to use as a dipping sauce for the lamb, and pour the

rest over the salad and toss together.

• Heat a BBQ, oven grill or chargrill to hot. Grill the skewers for 2-3

minutes on each side, and serve with the extra dressing and salad.


FIBRE 4.3G | SALT 3G

Chermoula tomato and fish tagine25 MINUTES + MARINATING | SERVES 6 | EASYChermoula is a punchy Middle Eastern marinade most often used

to flavour fish and seafood dishes.

olive oil

firm white fish fillets such as tilapia or halibut 700g

onions 2, thinly sliced

ginger 3cm piece, finely chopped

saffron a pinch

preserved lemon ½ skin only, rinsed and chopped



small new potatoes 250g, cooked

cherry tomatoes 10

giant couscous and harissa to serve

CHERMOULA MARINADE

coriander 1 large bunch, plus a few leaves to serve

hot smoked paprika 2 tsp

ground cumin 1 tsp

ground coriander 1 tsp

lemons 2, juiced

garlic 2 cloves

Wine match The soft, juicy, red berry fruits of Paul Mas Merlot 2013, Pays d’Oc, France, 13.5%

(£8.99, Majestic Wine) balance the heat of the lamb skewers perfectly.

Pop the cork on a bottle of Winemakers’ Selection Prosecco, Italy, 11%,

(£7, Sainsbury’s), and enjoy the floral notes and hints of citrus with the fish tagine.

Team the fragrant chettinad chicken with the fresh red fruits and peachy notes in Jewel of Nasik Zinfandel Rosé 2013, India, 11% (£6.99, M&S).

Chetinad

chicken

page 58

OCTOBER 2014 O 59

cook weekend spices

60 O OCTOBER 2014

Malay sambal oelek chicken with hot, sweet dipping sauce30 MINUTES + MARINATING | SERVES 4 | EASYSambal oelek is a fiery Asian chilli paste – buy it in specialist grocers

or online from theasiancookshop.co.uk

boneless, skinless chicken thighs 8

oil

cooked green beans to serve

steamed basmati rice to serve

MARINADE

sambal oelek or sriracha chilli sauce 2 tbsp

sweet soy sauce (ketjap manis) 2 tbsp

ginger 3 cm piece, grated

soft brown sugar 3 tbsp

rice wine vinegar 3 tbsp

lime 1, juiced


turmeric 1 tsp

garlic 1 clove, finely chopped

• Mix together the marinade (without the garlic), and set half aside for

a dipping sauce. Toss the chicken with the remaining marinade and the

garlic, leave for 1 hour, or covered overnight, in the fridge.

• Heat a BBQ or chargrill pan. Drizzle the chicken with a little oil to

grill, and season with salt and pepper. Grill until marks appear on each

side, about 3-4 minutes each.

• Serve with green beans, rice, and the sweet and hot dipping sauce.



Fall-apart vindaloo with red onion mint chutney3 HOURS + MARINATING | SERVES 4-6 | EASY

pork shoulder or neck 1kg, trimmed of excess fat

vegetable oil

onions 2 large, thinly sliced

garlic 2 cloves, chopped


malt or red wine vinegar 3 tbsp

mild or medium chilli powder 1 tsp

ground turmeric 1½ tsp

cinnamon sticks 2 long

basmati rice steamed to serve

red onion 1 small, sliced, mixed with 1 bunch fresh mint leaves

or coriander to serve

MARINADE

cardamom pods 6 (seeds only)

black peppercorns 6

whole cloves 6

Kashmiri or other long skinny dried red chillies 5, seeded

cumin seeds 2½ tsp

coriander seeds 2½ tsp

ginger 5cm piece, peeled

garlic 4 cloves, peeled

malt or red wine vinegar 3 tbsp

sugar 1 tsp

• Cut the pork into large pieces and put them in a bowl. For the

marinade, use a small frying pan to toast the cardamom, peppercorns,

cloves, chillies, cumin and coriander. When fragrant, after 30 seconds,

remove and put in a spice grinder. Grind finely, and put in food

processor with the ginger, garlic, vinegar, a good tsp of salt and the

sugar. Blend well and pour into the bowl with the pork. Toss well and

chill for two hours or overnight for best flavour.

• Heat a large frying pan with 1 tbsp oil. Drain the meat, saving the

marinade. Season well then sear, about 2 minutes on each side, until

browned. Remove from the pan and add 2 tbsp oil, the onion and

garlic. Cook until soft, about 10 minutes, on a medium-low heat. Add

the meat with the reserved marinade, tomato purée, vinegar, chilli

powder, turmeric and cinnamon sticks. Add 400ml water and stir.

Cover with a lid and cook on a very low heat for 1½-2 hours. The meat

should be falling-apart tender. Taste for additional vinegar, salt or

sugar. Serve with steamed basmati rice, and some chopped red onion

with mint or coriander.

PER SERVING 348 KCALS | PROTEIN 30.3G | CARBS 10.1G | FAT 20.1G | SAT FAT 6G


Wine matchThe light melon fruit and creamy finish of the Mâcon Blanc Villages 2013,

Burgundy, France, 12.5% (£6.49, Tesco) is a great match for the Malay sambal oelek chicken.

With simple plummy fruit and a touch of peppery spice, Extra Special Côtes du Rhône

Villages 2012, France, 13.5% (£6.75, Asda) goes well with this pork vindaloo.

Fall-apart vindaloo with red onion mint chutney page 60

OCTOBER 2014 O 61

cook weekend spices

62 O OCTOBER 2014

cook weekend spices

Fried aubergine sticks with sumac and honey20 MINUTES + SOAKING | SERVES 4 | EASY | VEGETARIAN

Soaking the aubergine in water first helps keep them crisp when frying.

aubergines 400g about 2 medium

plain flour 8 tbsp

sumac 4 tbsp

za’atar 4 tbsp

garlic salt 2 tbsp

oil 1 litre for frying

honey 2 tbsp

POMEGRANATE AND MINT YOGHURT

Greek yoghurt 200ml

green chilli ½, seeded

coriander a bunch

mint a bunch

pomegranate seeds

3 tbsp

• To make the yoghurt, whizz together the yoghurt, chilli, coriander,

mint and 2 tbsp water in a food processor. Pour into a bowl and add the

pomegranate seeds. Set aside for serving.

• Cut the tops off of the aubergines and cut into thick slices lengthways

(about 2cm), then cut into batons. Put in a large bowl of cold water and

soak for 1 hour. In a shallow bowl or dish, mix together the flour, sumac,

za’atar and garlic salt.

• Heat the oil in a wok or heavy pan no more than 1/3 full. The oil will

be hot enough if a small piece of aubergine sizzles immediately when

dropped in. Take the pieces directly from the water and dust in the flour

mixture, coating well and shaking off the excess. Fry 4-6 pieces at a time

until golden brown. Drain on kitchen paper and continue until all of the

pieces are fried. Arrange on a platter, drizzle with honey and serve with

a bowl of the sauce for dipping.

PER SERVING 11.5 KCALS | PROTEIN 0.2G | CARBS 1G | FAT 0.7G | SAT FAT 0.2G | FIBRE 0.1G | SALT 0.2G

OCTOBER 2014 O 65

Upgrade the veggies to a starring role with this relaxed vegetarian

sharing menu from RawduckRecipes TOM HILL Photographs MING TANG-EVANS

Roasted carrots, goat’s milk yoghurt

& za’atar•

Cauliflower, mint, labneh & pomegranate

•Turmeric spiced chickpeas, kale, garlic yoghurt &

burnt lemon•

Blistered tomatoes, borloti beans, fennel

tops & parmesan•

Shaker lemon pie

MENU

MENUof the month

Owner

Clare Latin

and chef

Tom Hill

66 O OCTOBER 2014

Roasted carrots, goat’s milk yoghurt and za’atar20 MINUTES | SERVES 4 AS SHARING | EASY | VEGETARIAN

olive oil

finger or baby carrots 1kg, trimmed and

scrubbed clean

sumac 1 tbsp

dried wild oregano 1 tbsp

toasted sesame seeds 1 tbsp

goat’s milk yoghurt 250ml

• Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6.

Put a solid roasting tray directly over the hob

and, when it starts to smoke, add a splash of

olive oil and toss in the carrots. Season with

salt and allow them to blister before roasting

them in the oven for a further 10 minutes, so

they are still a little crunchy.

• To make the za’atar, mix the sumac, oregano

and sesame seeds together with a pinch of salt.

• Tip the carrots onto the serving platter with

the roasting oil, pour over the yoghurt, making

sure you leave some of the carrots exposed,

then sprinkle over the za’atar. Pour over a little

more olive oil and serve.

PER SERVING 179 KCALS | PROTEIN 4.4G | CARBS 21.9G

FAT 6.1G | SAT FAT 2.3G | FIBRE 9.3G | SALT 0.2G

FOR A VIDEO RECIPE OF

RAWDUCK'S NEGRONI GET

THE APP Page 123

Rawduck is an all-day dining

restaurant in Hackney from the

people behind Ducksoup in

Soho, Clare Latin and Rory

McCoy. Head chef and co-owner Tom Hill

serves sharing plates with Mediterranean,

Middle Eastern and Asian influences,

including coco beans, pickled girolles, lemon

and tarragon; and salt cod and pea friters

with curry leaves and sumac. The wines are

biodynamic and from small producers. Try

our selection of dishes from the innovative

menu to create a vegetarian meal for four.

rawduckhackney.co.uk

Cauliflower, mint, labneh and pomegranate20 MINUTES + OVERNIGHT STRAINING | SERVES 4

AS SHARING | EASY | VEGETARIAN

Greek yoghurt 250g

large cauliflower 1, broken into florets

olive oil

pomegranate 2 large

red onion 1, thinly sliced into rounds

mint 1 bunch, leaves picked

parsley 1 bunch, leaves picked

lemon 1, juiced

sumac a pinch

• Whisk the yoghurt with ½ tsp of salt, then tip

it into a cheesecloth, muslin or a sieve lined with

a clean J-cloth. Sit over a large bowl and leave

overnight somewhere cool. This will draw out the

liquid and firm up the yoghurt to become labneh.

• Season the cauliflower and fry in olive oil

until golden brown but still with some crunch.

• To seed the pomegranates, cut it in half and

hit the back with a wooden spoon – do this

over a bowl so that you collect any juice. Pick

out any pith that may have fallen in.

• Toss the cauliflower with the onion, herbs,

lemon juice and a glug of olive oil. Turn this

gently out onto a serving plate and scatter with

pomegranate seeds. Spoon the labneh onto

the dish and sprinkle with sumac.



Turmeric spiced chickpeas, kale, garlic yoghurt and burnt lemon 30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 AS SHARING | EASY | VEGETARIAN

Buy smoky isot or urfa chilli flakes from

Turkish grocers or online from

melburyandappleton.co.uk.

olive oil

cumin seeds ½ tbsp

black onion seeds ½ tbsp

isot or urfa chilli flakes ½ tbsp (or use 1/4 tsp regular chilli flakes)

onion 1 large, diced

turmeric 2 tsp

garlic 3 cloves

chickpeas 400g tin, rinsed and drained

Greek yoghurt 250g

lemons 3

kale 500g, stems trimmed and chopped

• Warm 50ml olive oil in a large pan and

cook the cumin seeds, black onion seeds and

chilli flakes for 5 minutes. Add the onion and

cook until soft. Add the turmeric and 2 crushed

garlic cloves, and cook for a few more

minutes. Add the chickpeas and cook for

5 minutes to warm through.

• Meanwhile, mix the yoghurt with the juice of

1 lemon, 1 crushed clove of garlic, a drizzle

of olive oil and a pinch of salt.

• Cut the remaining 2 lemons in half on an

angle and burn the cut sides on a chargrill

or hot frying pan.

• Blanch the kale in boiling salted water for

2 minutes and refresh in iced water. Squeeze

out any water from the kale and arrange

loosely on a large plate. Spoon over the

chickpeas and then the garlic yoghurt.

Arrange the burnt lemons on the side.



Blistered tomatoes, borloti beans, fennel tops and parmesan20 MINUTES | SERVES 4 AS SHARING | EASY | VEGETARIAN

olive oil

bull’s heart or plum tomatoes 1kg,

quartered

borlotti beans 400g tin, rinsed and drained

vegetable stock 200ml, hot

fennel tops or tarragon a bunch

parmesan (or vegetarian alternative)

50g, grated

• Warm a frying pan over a medium heat and

add a little olive oil. Add the tomatoes, cut side

down, so they blister and caramelise, then

remove from the pan and set side.

• In the same pan, add the borlotti beans and

stock to deglaze the pan. Add 100ml olive oil

and simmer until most of the stock has evaporated.

Add half the fennel tops or tarragon to soften,

and season with salt and pepper.

• Arrange the tomatoes on the plate and

spoon over the beans. Top with more fennel

fronds or tarragon and grated cheese.



OCTOBER 2014 O 67

cook weekend sharing plates

cook weekend food for friends

68 O OCTOBER 2014

Wine matchesRawduck suggests serving Coyade Domaine Vinci,

Estagel, Roussillon and Les Copines Aussi Domain

des Sablonettes, 2013, Rablay sur Loire, Loire Valley

with the menu and Dona del Sol Muscat de Rivesaltes

Domain des Desmoiselles, 2010, Tressere, Roussillon

with the shaker lemon pie.

Shaker lemon pie1 HOUR + OVERNIGHT MACERATING AND CHILLING

SERVES 8 | A LITTLE EFFORT

This pie is an old Midwest US recipe made

popular by the shaker community. When this

pie is cut, the filling floods out, so cut it on

a dish with a lip to contain the filling.

unwaxed lemons 1½, thinly sliced

in rounds


butter 40g

eggs 3 plus 1 white, beaten to glaze

plain flour 50g

PASTRY

butter 220g, chilled and diced

plain flour 450g

golden caster sugar 50g plus extra

for sprinkling

eggs 2

milk to bind

• The night before, mix the lemons with the

sugar, making sure they are fully coated. Cover

and leave to macerate overnight in the fridge.

• To make the pastry, rub together the butter,

flour, sugar and a pinch of salt in a large

bowl, using your fingertips, until you have

breadcrumbs. Mix in the eggs and enough

milk to just bind and form a dough. Try not to

overwork the pastry. Cover in clingfilm and

chill for an hour before using.

• Pick out any pips that have floated to the top

of the lemon mix, melt the butter in a pan and

whisk into the lemon mixture with the eggs,

flour and a pinch of salt.

• Brush the inside of a 22cm tart or pie tin with

butter and dust with flour to stop the pastry

sticking. Roll out two-thirds of the pastry until

½ cm thick to cover the bottom and sides of

the tin, making sure it overlaps the sides. Pour

in the lemon mix, then roll the remaining third

of pastry to the same thickness and cover the

top. Cut around the edge of the tin, then crimp

the edges to seal. Cut a cross in the middle to

release the steam, glaze the top with beaten

egg white and sprinkle with a little more sugar.

• Put the pie onto a baking tray to catch any

leaks, and bake at 210C/fan 190C/gas 6½

for 10 minutes, then turn down to 160C/fan

140C/gas 3 and bake for another 35 minutes

until crisp and golden on top.



cook weekend sharing plates

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OCTOBER 2014 O 69

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70 O OCTOBER 2014

any fresh on the day

I tested it.

You could use

this recipe to make

chocolate buns, too.

I split a couple of

still-warm babas

and stuffed a

square of chocolate

into each for tea.

Every month O scours new cookery books for exciting recipes to make when there’s plenty of time to shop and cook.

Are you feeling adventurous?Recipe RICHARD BERTINET Photograph JEAN CAZALS

Labour of love

Rum baba

1 HOUR + 5 HOURS RISING, PROVING AND SOAKINGMAKES 18 | A LITTLE EFFORTAuthor Richard Bertinet says: Babas are a

classic Sunday lunch dessert in France. They

are often made in ring moulds, but in the

bakery where I served my apprenticeship we

used to bake them in dariole moulds, and this

is the way I have continued to do them, as

I like the shape. This recipe makes quite a lot

of babas – around 18 – as it is easier to make

the batter using a food mixer than by hand,

but you need a certain volume to work with.

You can freeze baked babas and keep the

syrup in a plastic container in the fridge for

up to three months.

FERMENT

strong bread flour 150g

fresh yeast 15g or dried yeast 7g

warm milk 150ml

BATTER

eggs 4 medium

butter 150g at room temperature, plus a little

extra for the moulds

caster sugar 50g

salt ½ tsp

warm milk 125ml


orange 1, zested

My default pudding is a

rum baba – if it’s on the

menu I can’t look at

anything else. However,

I’ve never made a successful batch at

home. I think Richard Bertinet is the

god of baking, so when I spoted a recipe

in his new book Patisserie Maison, I was

Recipe adapted from Patisserie

Maison by Richard Bertinet

(£20, Ebury Press)

Other recipes to try

• Chocolate liegeois

• Billionaire biscuits

• Blackcurrant mousse

SYRUP

orange 1

lemon 1

sugar 800g

rum 200ml

• To make the ferment, put the flour in a bowl

and crumble the yeast into it by rubbing it

between your fingertips. Whisk in the milk until

the ferment is thick. Leave for at least 2 hours

at room temperature and out of any draughts,

by which time it will have become bubbly.

• Using a mixer with a dough hook, beat

the ferment with all the batter ingredients until

the mixture is strong, elastic and stretchy.

• Grease the moulds heavily with butter. I find it

easiest to pipe the mixture into the moulds, but if

you don’t want to do this, moisten your hands with

water then scoop out small pieces of the batter

with your fingers and drop them into the moulds.

Either way, fill the moulds two-thirds full. Leave in

a warm place for 40-50 minutes until the mixture

has risen about 1cm above the rims of the moulds.

• Heat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5. For

the syrup, take off the orange and lemon peel

in long, thin strips (use a julienne or vegetable

peeler, then cut the strips into thinner lengths) and

put into a pan. Squeeze the juice from the fruit,

and add to the pan along with the sugar and

500ml water. Bring to the boil, then turn down the

TESTED BY

Lulu Grimes

heat and simmer for 5-10 minutes until it thickens

slightly into a syrup. Take off the heat, add the

rum and allow to cool until just warm, then pour

into a dish wide enough to hold the babas.

• Meanwhile, bake the babas in the oven for

15-20 minutes until they are golden and have

risen like champagne corks. Carefully turn each

one out of its mould and cool on a wire rack.

At this point you can freeze any that you don’t

want to use immediately.

• Put the babas into the syrup, turning them

to coat really well, and leave for 2-3 hours at

room temperature so that they soak up as much

syrup as possible. Gently prod them every so

often and, when they feel soft, they are ready.

• Put each baba into a glass bowl or small dish.

Scoop out some of the strips of peel from the

syrup – a pair of kitchen tweezers is ideal for

this – and curl them on top of each baba. Spoon

a little of the syrup around them and serve.

prety sure he wouldn’t let me down; he

didn’t. This recipe is simple to make and

the babas turn out a treat – they were

lighter and airier than any other recipe

I’ve tried and, once soaked in the rum

syrup, they are heaven.

The recipe makes 18, so I used a deep,

narrow muffin tin (Drömmar, from IKEA,

£5) that holds 12, plus six dariole moulds.

Also, I used dried yeast as I couldn’t get

Rum baba

LULU'S VERSION

cook weekend

OCTOBER 2014 O 71

72 O OCTOBER 2014

CHENGDUCook like a local

The Szechuan capital produces memorable food from tongue-numbing stir-fried pork in chilli sauce to spicy kung pao chicken with peanuts

Words and recipes QIN XIE & MR PENG Photographs PAUL WINCH-FURNESS

C hengdu is like the base of a wok. Surrounded by the mountains of Szechuan

province, the city rests at the botom of a basin where, during the height of

summer, temperatures soar. Food in Chengdu promises a different sort of

heat, a spicy, tongue-numbing experience that’s known the world over.

Szechuan cuisine is one of the principal influences of chef Yong Shuang Peng’s cooking,

whose recipes are featured here and taken from the book Hunan: A Lifetime of Secrets

from Mr Peng’s Chinese Kitchen. (Although his London restaurant is called Hunan as a

tribute to the master who taught him to cook, it serves Szechuan, not Hunanese food.)

Street food in Chengdu is ever-changing. The first city in Asia to have its food culture

recognised by UNESCO, Chengdu was named an official City of Gastronomy in 2011.

While familiar dishes such as hotpot, gong bao ji ding (kung pao chicken) and hui guo

rou (twice cooked pork) are always on the menu, food trends come and go in a mater of

weeks here, as the Chengduers satisfy their next craving. Expect exciting, seasonal and

usually, though not always, spicy flavours.

Reflecting the piquancy of their food, Chengduers are passionate people. Here, noise

is not only the preserve of cheap street food joints, but also the drumbeat of fine dining

restaurants: everywhere you go in Chengdu, food is a joy and, for the Chinese, joy is

something to shout about.

PHO

TOG

RAPH

S:

SEA

N P

AVO

NE/

ALA

MY,

QU

AN

DE L

IAN

G,

LATI

TUD

E S

TOC

K/

CA

PTU

RE LTD

/SU

PERS

TOC

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GO

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LIN

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73 O JULY 2014OCTOBER 2014 O 73

cook weekend

MENU

DECODER

What to order whether you’re

in Chester or Chengdu

YeÕerba Pork and preserved mustard greens make

a meaty filling for this sticky rice snack

(pictured above). It’s cooked in banana or

bamboo leaves for a distinctive flavour.

You cha A peasant dish of coarse-ground cornflour

porridge, topped with toasted soya beans,

peanuts, preserved vegetables, spring

onion, chilli oil and broken mahua (a kind

of fried dough).

Fei chang fen Hot and sour is a classic combination in

Chengdu and nothing delivers it better than

Fei chang fen – pigs’ intestines and potato

starch noodles in a hot and sour broth.

Han shao bai Pronounced xian shao bai in standard

Chinese but han shao bai in the Szechuan

dialect, this is a hearty dish of belly pork

and preserved mustard greens steamed

in a bowl of glutinous rice.

Guo ba rou pian A restaurant showpiece, where a bowl

of crispy rice crackers is brought to the

table and a pot of stir-fried pork is poured

over the top, making it sizzle.

San da pao A rare sweet dish of glutinous rice balls,

covered in soya flour and doused in

a dark sugar syrup.

French chips30 MINUTES + RESTING | SERVES 6 AS A SIDE | EASY

This dish (pictured right) is a classic at Hunan.

It’s called French chips because it’s made with

French beans, but everyone thinks it tastes like

chips. Our secret? We use self-raising flour to

make the batter.

oil for frying

french beans 100g, trimmed

red chilli 1, finely sliced

spring onion ½, finely sliced


Szechuan peppercorns a pinch, crushed

BATTER


white wine vinegar 2 tsp

• Make the batter first by mixing the flour with

100ml water, the vinegar and a small pinch

of salt in a bowl. You need a quite thick and

gloopy batter that will generously coat the

french beans. Adjust the amount of water if

necessary. Before using, let the batter rest until

it begins to bubble – this should take around

20 minutes.

• Heat a good glug of oil in a wok until it’s

almost smoking. Coat the french beans with the

batter, letting any excess run off, and carefully

put them, one by one, into the hot oil, making

sure that they don’t touch each other.

• Deep-fry the french beans until they start to

turn golden. This will take about 1 minute.

Carefully remove from the oil using a slotted

spoon and drain on kitchen paper.

• In a dry wok, stir-fry the chilli with the spring

onion and garlic on a medium heat until it

becomes aromatic. Add the french beans and

stir through the Szechuan pepper and a little

salt before serving.

TRUST O

London-based journalist

Qin Xie writes about food,

wine and travel around

the world and was born

and brought up in

Chengdu. She is co-author

of Hunan: A Lifetime of Secrets from Mr

Peng’s Chinese Kitchen (Preface, £25).

74 O OCTOBER 2014

Dry-fried prawns20 MINUTES | SERVES 4 AS A STARTER | EASY

Prawn shells contain lots of flavour and add

crunch, so eat the prawns with the shells on.

raw unpeeled prawns 8 large

cornflour to coat

oiI for frying

Szechuan peppercorns 1 tsp

garlic 2 cloves, thinly sliced

dried red chillies 5

spring onions 2, sliced

• De-vein the prawns and remove their heads

and tails but keep the shells on. Dust the

prawns in the cornflour. Dab the shells first with

water to help the cornflour stick if necessary.

• Add a good glug of oil to a wok and heat

until nearly smoking. Deep-fry the prawns on

a medium-high heat until they’re golden.

• Meanwhile, heat the peppercorns, garlic

and chillies in a separate pan with 1 tbsp oil

and stir-fry for 1 minute until fragrant.

• Add the prawns and spring onions to the

wok. Add salt to taste and serve.

Szechuan chilli sauce20 MINUTES | MAKES 300ML | EASY

This punchy sauce is essential to Mr Peng‘s

cooking, and the Szechuan peppercorns lend

their characteristic numbing spice to many of

our dishes. You need a lot of oil to make this

sauce as it captures the flavour of the chilli and

helps preserve it. When the sauce settles, you

should have a layer of oil on top. If you add

too much, you can use the excess as chilli oil.

This sauce is much spicier than red chilli sauce.

chilli flakes 4 tbsp

oil 200mI

Szechuan peppercorns 2 tbsp, crushed

chicken stock 6 tbsp plus more if necessary

tian mian jiang (sweet bean sauce) 2 tsp

(or use hoisin sauce)

tomato purée 2 tsp

sugar a pinch


• Add the chilli flakes to a hot wok with about

1 tbsp oil. Heat the chilli flakes until the pan

begins to smoke, stirring constantly to avoid

burning. Be careful as it will spit a little and

there will be a lot of smoke.

• As the chilli flakes absorb the oil, add more

oil, 1 tbsp at a time, until you have a paste. It

should take about 5 minutes.

• When the chilli flakes begin to darken, add

the Szechuan peppercorns off the heat with

3 tbsp stock. Stir through and return to the hob

on a medium heat. Add the tian mian jiang,

tomato purée and the remaining stock with

a pinch of salt and sugar.

• Stir through all the ingredients, adding more

stock and oil if necessary. You need a thick but

runny sauce. Finally, add the wine vinegar and

stir through just before taking it off the heat.

Pork with chilli sauce30 MINUTES + MARINATING | SERVES 4 | EASY

To make the garlic juice in this recipe, simply

soak 4 minced garlic cloves in 200ml water

for 20 minutes then strain before using. The

concentrated allium notes of the juice often

work better than garlic cloves in marinades.

pork chops 2 large or 4 small

garlic juice 200ml

Shaoxing wine 4 tsp


Chinese five-spice 2 tsp

cornflour 4 tbsp to coat

oil for frying

red chillies 4, finely sliced


spring onions 4, chopped

Szechuan peppercorns a pinch, crushed

Szechuan chilli sauce 2 tbsp to serve

(see recipe left)

• Cut the pork into strips and put in a bowl.

Pour the garlic juice, Shaoxing wine, wine

vinegar and Chinese five-spice over the pork

and leave to marinate for about 10 minutes.

Remove the pork pieces from the marinade

and coat them with the cornflour.

• Heat a generous amount of oil in a wok and

deep-fry the pork until it’s golden. When the

pork is cooked, remove it from the wok and

discard most of the oil. Stir-fry the chilli, garlic

and spring onion for a minute or so, then add

the pork to the wok and season with salt and

Szechuan peppercorns.

• Stir-fry for a further minute before removing

from the heat. Transfer the pork to serving

plates and serve with a drizzle of Szechuan

chilli sauce.

cook weekend chengdu

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123

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Bibo

cook weekend

W ith ex-Theo Randall chef

Chris Beverley at the

stoves, Bibo makes a fine

new addition to Putney,

south-west London. Its 40-seater bar is informal

and convivial, with a strikingly colourful tiled

floor and rustic chandeliers; here, you can drink

Punt e Mes (vermouth, £4.50), enjoy a refreshing

sgroppino (prosecco, lemon sorbet, £7), or dip

into the thrilling wine list, which is strong on

lambrusco, as well as wines from Friuli and

Piedmont. Bar snacks range from marinated

taggiasche olives (£3.50)

to crostini with ricota,

broad beans, zucchini

and pecorino (£3.50).

à la carte specialities

might include starters

such as octopus carpaccio

with potato, celery and

olives (£7), and this fresh

tagliarini nero with squid

and chilli (£9/£14).

biborestaurant.com

Squid ink adds salty depth to this colourful pasta dish

Words SOPHIE DENING Photographs DAVID COTSWORTH

DO TRY THIS AT HOME

Bibo’s tagliarini nero with squid, chilli, tomato and garlic1 HOUR 30 MINUTES + CHILLING | SERVES 6

A LITTLE EFFORT

olive oil

flat-leaf parsley a small bunch

chillies 4, 1 whole, and 3 seeded and diced

garlic 6 cloves, 4 whole and 2 crushed

fresh or frozen prepared squid 1kg

(if frozen, defrost overnight in the fridge)

chopped tomatoes 400g tin

basil a small bunch

PASTA

00 flour 250g

squid ink 30g

semolina 125g

• Make the pasta by pulsing the 00 flour,

squid ink, semolina and 200ml water in a food

processor until they start to come together as

a dough. Turn out onto a surface and knead

by hand until the dough becomes smooth and

elastic. Wrap in clingfilm and leave in the

fridge. (Alternatively, buy some squid ink pasta

from a good delicatessen – we like

melburyandappleton.co.uk.)

• For the sauce, heat the oven to 130C/

fan 110C/gas ¾. Warm 50ml olive oil in

a flameproof casserole dish on a low heat

with some parsley stalks, the whole chilli and

the 2 whole cloves of garlic. Add the squid,

season lightly and bring to a simmer. Cover

with a lid and cook in the oven for 1 hour,

or until the squid is tender. When cooked,

remove the squid with a slotted spoon and

chill, keeping the cooking liquor.

• Make a simple tomato sauce by cooking

the 2 cloves of crushed garlic in a little olive

oil, adding the tin of tomatoes, seasoning

and simmering for about 20 minutes until the

tomatoes have broken down and the sauce

has thickened. Blitz the sauce with a stick

blender, then blitz the basil leaves into some

olive oil, and add this to the sauce. (This

prevents the basil from discolouring).

• When the squid is cold, remove from the

fridge and cut into thin slices.

• Remove the pasta dough from the fridge and

divide into 4 pieces, then pass each through

a pasta roller at number 2 setting until thin,

before putting them through a tagliarini or

tagliatelle attachment with a dusting of flour.

• Finely chop the remaining garlic and fry

with the chilli in a little olive oil for 2 minutes.

Add 3 tbsp of the retained squid cooking

liquor and the tomato sauce. Simmer for 5-10

minutes until slightly thickened. Cook the

tagliarini briefly, for 1-2 minutes, in plenty of

salted water (fresh, thin pasta needs very little

cooking, and will continue to cook in the

sauce). Drain the pasta, add to the pan with

the sauce, and add the chopped squid. Scatter

over some chopped parsley, check the seasoning

and toss, keeping the pan over the heat until

the sauce is reduced and sticks to the pasta.

PER SERVING 456 KCALS | PROTEIN 30.7G

CARBS 49.3G | FAT 14.3G | SAT FAT 2.1G


FOR A VIDEO RECIPE OF BIBO'S

SGROPPINO, GET THE APP See page

123

OCTOBER 2014 O 77

78 O OCTOBER 2014

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French onion tart

1 HOUR + CHILLING | SERVES 8 | EASY

butter 50g

onions 2-3 large (about 600g), sliced

double cream 150ml pot

eggs 3

gruyère 100g, grated

THYME PASTRY

plain flour 200g


thyme 2 tsp of leaves

1 To make the pastry, pulse the flour, butter,

thyme and ½ tsp salt in a food processor

until the mixture looks like breadcrumbs.

2 Tip into a bowl then gradually add iced

water, stirring with a knife, until it comes

together. Wrap in clingfilm and chill for

30 minutes. Heat the oven to 190C/fan

170C/gas 5.

3 Roll out the pastry to the thickness of

a 20p piece on a lightly floured surface.

4, 5 Carefully use it to line a shallow 23cm

tart tin. Leave the excess pastry overhanging.

6 Sit the tart tin on a baking sheet. Line the

pastry with baking paper and fill with baking

beans. Bake for 15 minutes, then remove the

beans and paper, and cook for another 5-10

minutes until there are no raw patches. Leave

to cool for five minutes.

7 Trim off the excess pastry while it is still

warm with a small serrated knife.

8 Melt the butter in a large pan. Add the

onions and cook over a low heat, stirring

occasionally, until they’re golden and meltingly

soft (this will take about 20-30 minutes, so

be patient).

9 Whisk the cream, eggs and cheese, and

season well. Arrange the onions in the pastry

case then pour over the egg mix. Slide the

case back in the oven for 15-20 minutes

or until the filling is just set. Serve warm.

PER SERVING 430 KCAL | PROTEIN 9.6G | CARBS 24.5G


French onion tartMake your own

Make this bistro classic with step-by-step help from ORecipe JANINE RATCLIFFE Photographs ADRIAN LAWRENCE

OCTOBER 2014 O 79

cook weekend

How did you get on? Share your photo on twitter, instagram or our

facebook page #Ochallenge – we’d love to see your results

@Omagazine O magazine Omagazine

‘The success of this tart depends on geting the

onions really caramelised – so be patient’

12 3

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Segreti di famiglia

advertisement feature

Perfect pizzaFor an authentic Italian hallmark on your pizza, Galbani has the time-tested seal of approval

Galbani Mozzarella and pepperoni picante pizza 25 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY

peppers 2, 1 red and 1 yellow

spicy Italian salami 100g

Galbani Maxi Mozzarella 250g, torn

chopped tomatoes ½ x 400g tin

pizza bases 2 large (made up from a packet

dough or bought ready-made)

basil leaves a handful (optional)

• Heat oven to 240C/fan 220C/gas 9. Put

the peppers into a shallow roasting tin and roast

for 15-20 mins, turning until the skins char. Put

in a bowl, cover with cling film and leave to

cool. Peel off the skins and pull out and discard

any membrane and seeds. Tear peppers into

smaller chunks.

• Season the chopped tomatoes with salt and

pepper. Lay pizza bases on baking sheets and

spread over some of the tomatoes. Scatter over

the peppers, salami, mozzarella and basil leaves.

• Bake the pizzas according to your pizza base

instructions, until the bases are cooked and the

cheese is bubbling.

Now a national favourite, the

humble pizza was created in 19th

century Naples. One rumour

claims that in 1889, a local pizza

maker created a pie especially for Queen

Margherita, who requested a dish in the

colours of the Italian flag: red tomato, green

basil and white mozzarella.

When you make your next pizza,

crown it with a traditional Galbani

mozzarella. Number one in Italy,

Galbani has perfected delicious

and versatile cheese over the

last 130 years. Try its creamy

flavour in this recipe:

For more everyday recipes and Italian inspiration, visit galbani.co.uk

Galbani ambassador Joe and his

family boast an authentic Italian

heritage and haven’t lost sight

of their native traditions –

especially where cooking is

involved. They always use Galbani

cheese in their family recipes

due to its superior quality.

Joe says: “The spicy salami and sweet red peppers complement the fresh mozzarella.”

Ga

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Salmon with sweet mustard glaze

page 84

OCTOBER 2014 O 81

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Even when you’re short of time, it’s possible to eat something fresh and imaginative midweek.

Try one of our quick and easy suppers

everydayCOOK

CREAMY CHICKEN PUFF PIE | MUSHROOM MASALA | BEEF AND PEPPER STIR-FRY SAUSAGE AND FENNEL LASAGNE | SKINNY LAMB STEW | THAI SMOKED TROUT

Fiery chickpea and harissa soup page 83

82 O OCTOBER 2014

Cook seven satisfying meals for less than £35Recipes JANINE RATCLIFFE Photographs SAM STOWELL

Janine’s cheap eats

OCTOBER 2014 O 83

pearl barley 100g

Puy lentils 100g

butternut squash 400g, peeled

and cut into bite-sized pieces

red onion 1, cut into thin wedges

garlic 2 cloves with skin on, bruised

olive oil

courgettes 2, cut into chunks

cherry tomatoes 200g

sherry vinegar 3 tbsp

parsley ½ a small bunch, leaves picked

feta 200g block, crumbled

• Cook the barley and lentils in separate

pans until tender. They’ll both take about

20 minutes. Drain really well.

TUESDAYWarm roast veg, lentil and barley salad45 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | VEGETARIAN

Even if there’s just two of you it’s easier to make a big batch

of this and it keeps really well in the fridge.

cook everyday

ood quality pork sausages

make a great base for a rich

Italian sausage ragu. It’s

something I make a lot and

I usually just toss it with some pasta, but this

month, I’ve turned it into a hearty lasagne.

It’s bit quicker than regular lasagne as there’s

no white sauce to make so it makes a great

speedy weekend lunch for friends.

G

MONDAYFiery chickpea and harissa soup30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | VEGETARIAN

onion 1, chopped

olive oil

carrots 2, diced

celery 2 stalks, diced

ground cumin ½ tsp

harissa 2 tbsp

chickpeas 400g tin, drained



parsley a handful of leaves, chopped

• Cook the onion in 1 tbsp of olive oil until

softened. Add the carrot and celery and cook for

5 minutes. Stir in the cumin and harissa and cook

for a minute. Add the rest of the ingredients,

season and bring to a simmer. Cook for 15

minutes then stir in the parsley before serving.


FAT 5.7G | SAT FAT 0.7G | FIBRE 8.6G | SALT 1G

• Meanwhile heat the oven to 220C/fan

200C/gas 7. Put the squash and onion in

a baking dish. Add the garlic, 3 tbsp olive oil

and season well then turn everything around

in the oil. Bake for 10 minutes then add the

courgette, stir and bake for another 10

minutes. Add the tomatoes and keep cooking

for another 5 minutes or until they start to burst.

• Take the baking dish out of the oven and fish

out the garlic. Add 3 tbsp sherry vinegar and

the drained lentils and barley. Stir everything

together then pile onto plates and top with

the parsley and feta.



£1.65SERVES 4 FOR

£3.36SERVES 4 FOR

STYLIN

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.

Fancy a glass with dinner? Join the NEW O

wine club and get a case of twelve food-friendly reds

for just £71.48, plus free delivery (see page 69).

skinless salmon fillets 2

Dijon mustard 2 tsp

brown sugar 1 tsp

butter

shallot 1, finely chopped

greens 200g, shredded and blanched

cannellini beans 200g, rinsed and

drained (if you have a 400g tin see leftovers

on page 125 for how to use the rest)

lemon ½, zested and juiced

• Put the salmon in a grill-proof dish. Mix the

mustard and sugar with a splash of water and

season. Brush all over the salmon. Grill for

5 minutes until the glaze is golden and the

salmon is just cooked through.

• Heat a pan and add a knob of butter. Cook

the shallot until softened then add the greens

and beans and heat. Add the lemon juice and

the zest and season. Serve with the salmon.



WEDNESDAYSalmon with sweet mustard glaze20 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY

spring onions 4, chopped,

including green bits


oil

scotch bonnet chilli ¼ - ½, seeded and

finely chopped

ground allspice ½ tsp

dried thyme ½ tsp

coconut milk 200ml (see leftovers, page 116)

sweet potato 1 large, peeled and chunked

spinach 100g, chopped

cooked rice to serve

• Cook ¾ of the spring onion and the garlic in

a little oil until softened. Add the chilli, spice,

herb and coconut milk. Simmer for 10 minutes.

Add the sweet potato and cook for 8-10 minutes,

or until tender. Stir in the spinach and cook for

a few more minutes. Season then serve with rice

scattered with the rest of the spring onions.



THURSDAYJamaican sweet potato stew40 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | VEGETARIAN

£3.00SERVES 2 FOR

£6.10SERVES 2 FOR

84 O OCTOBER 2014

SATURDAYItalian sausage and fennel lasagne1 HOUR 10 MINUTES | SERVES 6 | EASY

fresh lasagne about 12 sheets

mozzarella 250g pack (Galbani

do a good one)

grana padano 50g, grated

SAUCE

olive oil

Italian pork sausages 8 (look

for ones with extra herbs, wine and

garlic), skins removed

garlic 2 cloves, sliced

fennel seeds 1 tsp

chilli flakes a pinch (optional)

chopped tomatoes 2 x 400g tin

red wine a splash (optional)

basil ½ a small bunch

£9.11SERVES 6 FOR • Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a non-stick pan.

Pinch small nuggets of sausage into the pan

then cook until browned. Add the garlic and

cook for a minute then add the fennel and

chilli flakes and cook for another minute.

Add the tomatoes and wine then simmer

for 20 minutes. Stir in the basil.


To assemble the lasagne, put a thin layer of

sauce on the bottom of a large rectangular

baking dish.

• Add a layer of lasagne, 1/3 of the sausage

sauce and ¼ mozzarella in that order.

Repeat twice then finish with a layer of

lasagne. Spoon over the last bit of tomato

sauce to cover then add the last layer of

mozzarella and a handful of parmesan.

Bake for 40 minutes until bubbling and

golden (cover loosely with a sheet of foil

if it starts to brown too much).

PER SERVING 505 KCALS | PROTEIN 25G | CARBS 27.7G


cook everyday cheap eats

OCTOBER 2014 O 85

oil

spring onions 4, shredded

red pepper 1, cut into strips

broccoli 200g, cut into very small florets

and blanched

ginger ½ tbsp of grated


udon noodles 1 pack, rinsed

to separate

SAUCE

soy sauce 2 tbsp

mirin 2 tbsp

Worcestershire sauce 1 tbsp

tomato ketchup 1 tsp

caster sugar ½ tsp

• Heat 1 tbsp oil on a pan or wok. Add the

onion and pepper and stir-fry for a couple

of minutes. Add the broccoli, ginger and garlic

and cook for another minute. Mix the sauce

ingredients and add to the pan with the noodles.

Toss everything together until heated through.


FAT 9.2G | SAT FAT 1G | FIBRE 8.8G | SALT 3.5G

FRIDAYYaki udon noodles20 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY £2.94

SERVES 2 FOR

86 O OCTOBER 2014

cook everyday cheap eats

SUNDAYChicken and leek puff pie1 HOUR 10 MINUTES | SERVES 4-6 | EASY

skinless boneless chicken thigh fillets

400g

leeks 2 small, washed and sliced into

small chunks

milk 300ml

butter 50g

plain flour 2 tbsp

Dijon mustard 1 tsp

single cream 150ml

tarragon a small bunch, chopped

puff pastry 350g

egg 1, beaten

• Put the chicken and leeks in a pan, pour over

the milk and season well. Bring to a simmer,

cover and simmer for 15 minutes. Cool then

lemon ½ onion 1 red onion 1 shallot 1 courgettes 2 spring onions 8 leeks 2 small carrots 2 celery 2 spinach 100g broccoli 200g greens 200g sweet potato 1 large butternut squash 400g cherry tomatoes 200g red pepper 1 ginger ½ tbsp of grated parsley 1 small bunch basil ½ a small bunch tarragon a small bunch scotch bonnet chilli ¼ - ½ pork sausages 8 skinless boneless chickenthigh fillets 400g

salmon fillets 2 skinless chopped tomatoes 2 x 400g tin chickpeas 400g tin cannellini beans 200g Puy lentils 100g pearl barley 100g udon noodles 1 pack fresh lasagne about 12 sheets puff pastry 350g milk 300ml single cream 150ml egg 1 mozzarella 250g pack grana padano 50g feta 200g block coconut milk 200ml red wine

Ingredients you’ll need

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olive oil ground cumin harissa ground allspice dried thyme fennel seeds chilli flakes Dijon mustard vegetable stock tomato purée garlic

sherry vinegar brown sugar butter soy sauce mirin Worcestershire sauce tomato ketchup caster sugar plain flour rice

strain off the milk and keep in a jug. Tip the

chicken and leeks into a bowl and tear all the

meat into rough chunks.

• Melt the butter in a pan. Sprinkle over the flour

and cook, stirring for a few minutes. Gradually

add the strained milk, stirring until you have a

sauce. Add the mustard and cream and stir. Add

the chicken, leeks and tarragon, then mix well.

Leave to cool a little.

• Tip into a dish then roll out the pastry to cover

the top. Glaze with the egg and make a vent in

the middle of the pastry. Bake at 190C/fan

170C/gas 5 for 25-30 minutes until golden.



£34.31*7 MEALS FOR

£8.15SERVES 6 FOR

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“

“

New kid on the Blok

Lamb’s Navy Rum may have been around

since the mid-19th century but, like knife

maker Ben Edmonds – a man who’s

making a name for himself with fledgling

business Blok Knives – its creator Alfred Lamb was

also known as a young entrepreneur. The wine and

spirits specialist first developed his superior blended

rum in 1849, aged just 22, and it’s still loved today.

A blend of 18 different rums sourced from

Barbados, Trinidad, Jamaica and Guyana; the

philosophy of Lamb’s Navy Rum is to take the very

best and make it beter. Unique and original, its

history and its no-nonsense character embodies

the essence of Britishness.

Lamb’s Navy Rum celebrates True British

Character, and that’s why it’s heroing Ben

Edmonds. Read Ben’s story on the right.

An entrepreneurial spirit and predilection for quality are two elements that exemplify what it is to be British. Join Lamb’s Navy Rum in championing True British Character and the people who epitomise it

Visit lambsnavyrum.com to find out more #TrueBritishCharacter

‘Blok started by chance. I was working

as a graphic designer, but in my spare

time I’d play around with cars and

make furniture, and so on.

‘One day, watching videos online,

I came across a guy making a knife

and I thought, “I could do that”. So I

bought some materials and tools and

got busy making my own! I kept

honing my designs and skills and

soon I had a whole set.

‘After selling one to someone in my

local pub who had heard about me,

I built a website, created my branding,

and Blok Knives was born.’

That was three years ago. Now,

there’s a seven-month waiting list.

‘As the business grew, I

invested in equipment to

refine production methods

but I still work on my own,

making all the knives myself.’

Ben now sells his knives to people all

over the world, fulfilling commissions from

foodies and professional chefs. ‘I’ve just

finished forty steak knives for 2 Michelin-

starred restaurant Sat Bains in

Nottingham,’ says Ben, proudly.

Since 1849, Lamb’s Navy Rum has

been perfecting the art of making

rum. Its fine blend of 18 superior

rums gives it a warm balance

of spice flavours and a deep

mahogany allure.

Ben Edmonds’ story:


PHO

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89 O JULY 2014

NEXT ISSUE

ON SALE 10 October

DON’T MISS! Download our new

fully interactive app

for iPhone/iPad for

extra recipes, videos,

galleries and more

– see page 123

80SEASONAL RECIPES

EXPLORE

Autumn city breaks:• Amsterdam • Budapest • Gothenburg• Dublin

OCTOBER 2014 O 89

MMM... COMFORT FOOD

• Braised short ribs with turnips

• Mini beef wellingtons

• Pear & chocolate pudding

PLUS! Smoked haddock scotch eggs | Double mushroom burger | Baked cod with clams Apple and star anise cake | Roasted veg enchiladas | Chicken dhansak

Perfectly balancedcrackers ✔ Low in fat, less than 2%

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Visit www.rakusens.co.uk for stockists

Calories Fat

Sugars

Salt

Sat Fat

91 O JULY 2014

Chicken laksapage 92

OCTOBER 2014 O 91

Let O rescue you from your recipe rut with five new midweek favouritesRecipes LULU GRIMES Photographs ADRIAN LAWRENCEFIXES

QuickSTY

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cook everyday

92 O OCTOBER 2014

Chicken laksa30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY

chicken thigh fillets 4, cut into cubes

laksa paste 2-3 tbsp

chicken stock 400ml

coconut milk 400ml

kaffir lime leaves 2, finely shredded

beansprouts 200g

rice or egg noodles 200g cooked

red chilli 1, finely sliced

fish sauce to season

• Put the chicken and paste in a pan and heat

them gently, turning the chicken in the paste.

Stir in the chicken stock and bring everything

to a simmer. Add the coconut milk and lime

leaves and simmer for 5 minutes, then add the

beansprouts for 1 minute more. Divide the

noodles between 4 bowls and divide the laksa

between them. Sprinkle with chilli to serve

and season with fish sauce.

PER SERVING 527 KCALS | PROTEIN 30.2G | CARBS 40G


Chipotle Alaskan salmon salad 20 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY

Alaskan salmon fillet 2 pieces

chipotle paste about 2 tsp

oil

black beans 4 tbsp, cooked

and rinsed

limes 2, 1 zested and juiced, 1 halved

red pepper 1, seeded and cut

into strips

avocado 1, diced

coriander a bunch

• Brush the salmon with a thin layer of

chipotle paste followed by a thin layer of oil.

Grill for 7-8 minutes, or until cooked through.

Put the black beans in a bowl and add the

lime juice and zest. Add the pepper slices,

avocado, some oil and seasoning. Gently fold

together and sprinkle with coriander. Break up

the salmon over the salad (discarding any skin)

and serve with extra lime to squeeze over.



FOR MORE QUICK RECIPES

lulusnotes .com

Mushroom masala with coriander rice30 MINUTES | SERVES 3 | EASY | VEGETARIAN

onion 1, chopped


oil

cashew nuts a handful

desiccated coconut 2 tbsp

curry paste 1-2 tbsp

mushrooms 350g, halved

or quartered

peas 100g

spinach 100g

lemon 1, zested and juiced

coriander a handful, chopped

basmati rice steamed to serve

• Fry the onion and garlic gently in

a little oil while you whizz the cashews,

coconut and curry paste together in a blender.

Add this to the onion and fry for a minute. Add

the mushrooms and a splash of water and

cover the pan for 5 minutes, stirring once or

twice. Once they are almost cooked, add the

peas and cook for 1 minute, then add the

spinach and stir. Add the lemon zest and juice,

season and add a splash of water if you need

to. Stir the coriander through the rice to serve.



OCTOBER 2014 O 93

Potato and carrot rosti 30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | VEGETARIAN

potato 1 large or 2 medium

(waxy not baking) skin left on

carrots 2, peeled

flour 2 tbsp

spring onions 2, finely chopped

butter

eggs 2

green salad to serve

• Parboil the potato and carrots

for 5 minutes, then drain and cool

a little. Peel the potato. Grate the

potato and carrot into a sieve.

Sprinkle the flour and lots of

seasoning on top and shake the sieve

so it coats all the veg. Add the spring

onion and shape into two discs. Heat

some butter in a frying pan. Add the rostis

one at a time and fry gently until the bases

brown. Flip to cook the other side, adding

more butter if you need to. Slide onto 2 plates

and fry 2 eggs in the pan, adding one to each

plate. Serve with green salad.



Beef and red pepper stir-fry20 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY

Szechuan pepper or red chilli flakes

1 tsp, ground with a mortar and pestle

cornflour 1 tbsp

steak or minute steaks 2, sliced into strips

oil

ginger 2 cm piece, grated

garlic 1 clove, grated

red pepper 1, seeded and cut into strips

spring onions 1 bunch, sliced

soy sauce 2 tbsp

beef stock 2 tbsp

noodles or rice to serve

• Mix the Szechuan pepper with the cornflour

and toss it with the steak strips. Heat a little oil

in a wok, add the ginger and garlic, fry for

a few seconds and then add the steak and stir

for a minute. Add the pepper and spring onion

and fry everything together until the pepper

softens, then add the soy sauce and stock

and toss. Serve over noodles or rice.



cook everydayquick fixes


The high nutritional value of

Alaska salmon along with a

lean, fi rm texture and superior

fl avour makes it a healthy meal choice.

Alaska salmon comes from the wild,

pristine waters off the coast of Alaska

and is prized for its rich colour, distinctive

fl avour and range of textures. Alaska

seafood is naturally high in many

essential vitamins, including vitamins E,

C, D and A. The quality of Alaska salmon

is also determined by what it doesn’t

contain. Alaska’s marine habitats are

nearly pollution-free compared to the rest

of the world. Feeding on organic marine

organisms, Alaska salmon is additive-free

and provides healthful, natural vitamins,

minerals, nutrients and heart-healthy

polyunsaturated fats.

What’s more, all wild Alaska salmon is

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OCTOBER 2014 O 95

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Low-calorie, low-fat and 5:2-diet-

friendly mealsRecipes ANNA GLOVER

Photographs ADRIAN LAWRENCE

Coconut chickpea curry Thai smoked trout salad

Skinny lamb stewBroccoli, chilli and lemon

wholewheat pasta

Slimmer

DINNERS

cook everyday slimmer dinners

96 O OCTOBER 2014

Coconut chickpea curry 30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | VEGETARIAN

onion 1, diced

garlic 1 clove

ginger thumb-sized piece, peeled

red chilli 1, sliced

oil

turmeric ½ tsp

garam masala 1 tsp

ground cumin 1 tsp


butternut squash 400g, peeled and cut into 1cm cubes

chickpeas 400g tin, rinsed and drained

half-fat coconut milk 160ml

mangetout 50g

spinach 100g

lime 1, cut into wedges

steamed rice to serve

• Pulse the onion, garlic, ginger and chilli in a blender. Fry in 1 tsp oil

for 2 minutes, add the spices, toast for 1 minute, stir in the squash, fry for

5 minutes, add the chickpeas, coconut milk, 250ml water, simmer for 20

minutes, lid on, until the squash softens. Add the mangetout and spinach,

stir for 2 minutes till the spinach wilts. Serve with lime wedges and rice.


FIBRE 8G | SALT 0.5G

FOR MORE HEALTHY RECIPES

lulusnotes .com

Thai smoked trout salad15 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY

red chilli 1, seeded and diced

shallot 1, sliced

lime 1, juiced

fish sauce 2 tsp

beansprouts 50g, blanched

cucumber ¼, sliced

coriander a handful of leaves

mint a handful of leaves

Thai basil a handful of leaves

rice noodles 30g, soaked in boiling water for 5 minutes

and drained

hot smoked trout fillet 50g, flaked

• Whisk the chilli, shallot, lime juice and fish sauce together.

Add the beansprouts, cucumber, herbs, rice noodles and smoked

trout, and toss with the dressing. Scatter with a few more herbs to

serve, if you like.

PER SERVING 215 KCALS | PROTEIN 16G | CARBS 30.3G | FAT 3.3G | SAT FAT 0.8G

FIBRE 2.2G | SALT 3G

Skinny lamb stew1 HOUR 15 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY

olive oil

lean lamb leg 400g, trimmed of fat and cut into chunks

onions 2, diced

celery 2 sticks, diced

carrots 200g, diced

potatoes 350g, peeled and cut into cubes

bay leaf 1

pearled barley 3 tbsp

lamb stock 1 litre

parsley a small bunch, chopped

chives ½ a bunch, chopped

mint a few leaves, chopped

• Heat 1 tsp oil in a large casserole dish and fry the lamb in

batches until browned. Remove with a slotted spoon, then add the

onion, celery, and carrot to the dish. Fry for 5 minutes until softened,

then add the browned lamb, potatoes, bay leaf, barley and lamb

stock to the dish, and season. Put the lid on the pan and simmer for

1 hour until the lamb is tender. Stir in the herbs to serve.



Broccoli, chilli and lemon wholewheat pasta20 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | VEGETARIAN

wholewheat spaghetti 150g

long stem broccoli 300g, roughly chopped

oil

shallot 1, sliced

chilli flakes a large pinch plus more to serve


lemon 1, zested and juiced

• Cook the spaghetti, adding the broccoli to the pan for the last

3 minutes, then drain. Meanwhile, heat 1 tsp oil in a large frying

pan, and fry the shallot, chilli flakes and garlic gently. Add the

drained pasta and broccoli to the pan, and mix in the lemon zest,

½ the juice and season well. Divide between pasta bowls and serve.



2014OCTOBER 2014 O 97

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cook everyday

Buxton sparkling

mineral water

(89p/1.5l,

widely available)

The bubbles here are

large and energetic,

which is why I’ve

chosen it over a more

salty sparkling water

such as Badoit.

Sipsmith London

Dry Gin, 41.6%

(around £28/70cl,

widely available)

A gin with beautiful

clarity, at its best with

Fever-Tree tonic water

and a slice of lemon.

Tesco Revisionist

Wheat Beer, 4.8%

(£1.79/500ml, Tesco)

Made by Marston’s

and bottled for Tesco,

the Revisionist series

is a big company

response to craft beer.

This smells of banana,

cloves and citrus.

Philippe Michel

Cremant du Jura

2011 France, 12%

(£7.29/75cl, Aldi)

A fizzy chardonnay

from the Jura. Its

savoury flavours work

well with the spices

and the bubbles are

good with the chilli.

FOUR TO TRY WITH

VEGGIE CURRY

Potato and cauliflower curry40 MINUTES | SERVES 2-3 | EASY | VEGETARIAN

potatoes 450g, peeled and chopped into

2cm cubes

onion ½, peeled and chopped

garlic 3 cloves, peeled and roughly chopped

ginger 4cm piece, peeled and chopped

groundnut oil

cauliflower 1, broken into small florets

cumin seeds 1 tsp

ground coriander 1 generous tsp

ground cumin ½ tsp

turmeric 1 tsp

cayenne pepper ¾ tsp

green chillies 3, split, seeded and quartered

tomatoes 3 large, chopped

TO SERVE

coriander ½ small bunch, chopped

natural yoghurt

white basmati rice and/or naan bread

• Heat a pan of boiling water and cook the

potato until almost tender, about 5 minutes, then

Our expert pairs a veggie curry with a choice of different bubblesWords and recipe VICTORIA MOORE

Spiced food is notoriously tricky

to match with wine. Red, in

particular, can be tough with chilli

as the tannins in the wine front up

to the heat like a bull pawing the ground at the

sight of the matador’s cape. That’s why I advise

avoiding red wine when chillies are involved,

though some people go for that aggression.

One thing I like with spice is bubbles – and

I don’t mind what in: water, gin and tonic,

beer or wine. I presumed this was because

the fizz was refreshing. In fact, the science

is that the carbon dioxide activates the same

nociceptors – nerve cell endings – that are

triggered when you eat wasabi or mustard;

in other words, fizz burns in the same way as

some spices. No wonder it seems to fit right in.

This curry is awesome with a gin and tonic

made using Sacred Cardamom Gin, 43.8%

(£33.85, sacredspiritscompany.com); it is also

good with wheat beer and some sparkling

wines. Of course, you don’t need to drink

booze – fizzy water goes well with this curry

and it’s healthy. Win-win.

Victoria Moore

writes for The

Telegraph and is

the author of

How to Drink

(£12.99, Granta)

drain well. While it’s cooking, put the onion,

garlic and ginger in a narrow container

with 2cm of water and use a stick blender to

blitz until smooth (or whizz in a small food

processor). Put 6 tbsp oil in a heavy pan, heat,

add the potatoes and fry until golden. Remove

and set aside. Fry the cauliflower until golden.

Remove and set aside. Put the cumin in the pan,

cook for 30 seconds, add the onion mix and

cook for 4-5 minutes. Add the remaining spices,

chillies and tomatoes, cook for 2 minutes, then

add the potato and cauliflower with 500ml

water. Cook for 4 minutes. Scatter with coriander

and serve with yoghurt and rice or naans.


FAT 25.1G | SAT FAT 5G | FIBRE 10.6G | SALT 0.1G

NEXT MONTH

ON SALE 10 OCT

Kale and bean soup

Victoria’s

Pita-a-pocket or two with Greek chicken55 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY

chicken breast fillets 4Gold from Flora cucumber ½, dicedcherry tomatoes 150g, halvedmint or flat leaf parsley a small bunch,roughly choppedfeta 200g, crumbled into piecespitted kalamata olives 2 handfulsfrozen peas 100g, defrostedlemon juice 3 tbspextra virgin olive oil

PITTA BREADGold from Flora 50ggarlic 1 clove, peeled and crushedcurly parsley 1 tbsp, choppedwholemeal or white pitta breads 4

• Heat a griddle pan to medium. Brush the chicken with Gold from Flora and grill for 10-12 minutes on each side, or until golden. Once cooked, sit on a plate, cover loosely with foil and leave to rest. Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6.

• Mix together the Gold from Flora, garlic and parsley. Using a knife, split open the pittas and spread the mixture inside each. Next, take 2 pieces of foil and wrap 2 pittas together in each. Bake for 10 minutes.

• For the salad, toss together the cucumber, tomatoes, mint or parsley, feta, olives, peas, lemon juice and 3 tbsp olive oil, then season.

• Slice the chicken then spoon into the pitta along with the salad. Serve any remaining salad on the side.For nutritional information, visit goldfromflora.com


Gold standardLet TV chef and author Jo Pratt inspire your meals with help from new Gold from Flora

Inspiring mid-week meals can be

a challenge for even the most

enthusiastic home cooks. As a

mum and author of four recipe

books, Jo Pratt is well-used to being

imaginative when it comes to family

dinners, which is why she has created

a selection of easy and delicious recipes.

Her tempting ideas – including

mouthwatering Greek chicken pittas

(see right) – are sure to win everyone

over, thanks to the new rich and creamy

Gold from Flora.

‘You can spice things up with this

Mediterranean favourite,’ Jo says. ‘It’s

the perfect dish to get everyone round

the table, and it’s one of those reliable

recipes that every family should enjoy.

Quick and easy, delicious and cheap – it

performs on every level. It’s especially

ideal for when you don’t want to eat

anything too heavy.’

Gold from Flora is a versatile ingredient

that can enhance a wide range of

homemade meals, such as these Greek

chicken pittas, and much more. An

irresistible blend of butter and Flora,

it’s made for people who love food but

also want to lead a balanced lifestyle,

as it contains 40% less saturated fat

than butter.

That means you can enjoy the taste

and quality of Gold from Flora with less

guilt. So spread it onto your toast at

breakfast, use it to make sandwiches

even better for lunch, add it to vegetables,

and definitely make sure you try it in Jo’s

fantastic Greek chicken pittas.

To watch Jo Prat’s how-to videos and for more recipe ideas, visit goldfromflora.com

Discover Gold from Flora Gold from Flora helps create delicious everyday food that’s simple to prepare. Versatile and ready to use straight from the fridge, it’s suitable for all meal occasions, from breakfast to dinner, to add a creamy flavour to delicious, lovingly prepared dishes. It is available in 400g (RRP £2.49) and 225g (RRP £1.49) from all leading supermarkets and independent retailers.

Follow us @Flora #discovergold

1

cook everyday

OCTOBER 2014 O 99

White pizza with sausage, broccoli and fennel40 MINUTES + PROVING | SERVES 4 | EASY

pork sausages 3, skinned (use Italian

or well-flavoured ones such as cumberland)

olive oil


chilli flakes ¼ tsp, plus a pinch

fennel seeds ¼ tsp, plus a pinch

ricotta 125g

long stem broccoli 5-6 stalks, cut into

pieces and blanched

mozzarella ½ x 125g ball, sliced

parmesan 25g, grated

DOUGH

strong white bread flour 300g

dried yeast 1 tsp

sugar 1 tsp

salt large pinch

• Mix the dough ingredients together with

150-200ml warm water and the salt until you

have a soft dough. Knead briefly, then leave

for 1 hour or until doubled in size.

• Roll the sausagemeat into small balls. Heat

1 tbsp oil in a non-stick frying pan and cook

the sausagemeat balls in batches until lightly

golden. Transfer to a plate and add the garlic,

Chefs are great at making everyday ingredients special and have inspired us to create these easy, imaginative dishesRecipes & words SARAH COOK Photographs ANT DUNCAN

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Inspired by

PIZZA PILGRIMS James and Thom Elliot’s popular street food stand has graduated to a permanent residence in Soho’s Berwick Street. The

two brothers, who travelled round Italy in search of perfect pizza recipes, serve up a mouthwatering menu, which features a particularly delicious salsiccia e friarielli pizza with chunks of classic Italian fennel-flavoured sausage, wild broccoli and fior di latte (cow’s milk mozzarella). pizzapilgrims.co.uk

sausages3ways with

chilli and fennel seeds to the pan and cook for

1 minute. Tip the garlic, chilli and fennel seeds

into a bowl along with the ricotta and stir

together with a little seasoning.


Dust a surface with a little flour and thinly roll

out the dough to make 2 pizzas, then transfer

to baking trays or pizza stones. Spread the

bases with the ricotta mixture, then scatter over

the broccoli and meatballs, followed by the

mozzarella and parmesan. Scatter with a

pinch more chilli flakes and fennel seeds, plus

some extra seasoning, then drizzle with a little

more olive oil. Bake the pizzas for about 15

minutes until the base is crisp and golden and

the topping is bubbling.

PER SERVING 558 KCALS | PROTEIN 22.4 | CARBS 62.1G


Sausage röstis with caramelised onion gravy1 HOUR | SERVES 4 | EASY

100 O OCTOBER 2014

sunflower oil

sausages 8 (apple, leek, sage and mustard

flavours all work well)

King Edward potatoes 4 large

thyme 3 sprigs, leaves stripped

grainy mustard 2 tbsp

English mustard powder 2 tsp

egg 1, beaten

GRAVY

onions 2, thinly sliced

butter 25g

brown sugar 1 tbsp, any kind

plain flour 2 tbsp

chicken or vegetable stock 500ml

Worcestershire sauce 1 tbsp


Brush 1 tbsp oil over a shallow roasting tin,

about A4-sized, or a round ovenproof pan,

about 20-22cm across.

• Brown the sausages in 1 tsp oil for 5 minutes

or until golden. Grate the potatoes (no need

to peel them), put into a clean tea towel and

squeeze out as much water as you can. Tip

into a bowl and mix in the thyme, half the

grainy mustard, all the mustard powder, the

egg and ½ tsp salt plus some black pepper.

Tip into the roasting tin and add the sausages.

Brush a little oil over the potato and bake for

45-50 minutes until the sausages and potato

are crisp, golden and cooked through.

• While the sausage röstis are baking, make

the gravy. Put the onions and butter in a frying

pan and cook gently until really soft and

starting to caramelise – about 20-30 minutes.

Stir in the sugar, and brown over a higher heat

for a couple of minutes, then stir in the flour,

mixing until it has blended in. Gradually stir

in the stock, followed by the remaining 1 tbsp

grainy mustard and Worcestershire sauce.

Bring to a simmer and bubble, then reduce

until it has a good consistency. Season to taste.

Scoop the sausage röstis straight from the tin

and serve with green veg and plenty of gravy.


FAT 40.2G | SAT FAT 14.3G | FIBRE 7G | SALT 4.6G

2Inspired by

THE GOLDEN LION This award-winning pub in South Wales gets its Monmouthshire-bred pork sausages from a local butcher.

Although sausage and mash is the classic pairing, here you’ll get them on top of a potato rösti served with caramelised onion gravy. thegoldenlionmagor.co.uk

OCTOBER 2014 O 101

cook everyday 3 ways

3Inspired by

AZOU LONDON This north African restaurant’s homemade merguez is a spicy lamb sausage scented with harissa, sweet paprika and fennel.

Try it here with chakchouka – a warm salad of grilled peppers, tomatoes, onions and herbs, with plenty of pitta for mopping up the juices. azou.co.uk

Roasted merguez sausages, peppers and tomatoes with pita and herbed yoghurt45 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY

harissa paste 2 tbsp

red wine vinegar

merguez lamb sausages 250g

red onion 1 small, cut into chunky wedges

large plum tomatoes 4, cut into

chunky wedges

roasted peppers from a jar 2 whole,

cut into chunky pieces

toasted flaked almonds 1 tbsp

mint, coriander and flat-leaf parsley

small handful of each, all but a few whole

leaves, finely chopped

Greek yoghurt 150g

sugar large pinch

brown or white pitta to serve, warmed

or toasted

• Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. In

a large bowl, mix the harissa paste and 1 tbsp

red wine vinegar with some seasoning, then

add the sausages and onion and toss to coat.

Spread into a large roasting tin and roast in

the oven for 20 minutes. Add the tomatoes

and mix well, then return the pan to the oven

for 10 minutes.

• If the sausages and onion look almost ready,

scatter over the roasted peppers and almonds

and cook for 5-10 minutes until everything is

browned and juicy.

• Mix the chopped herbs into the yoghurt

with some seasoning, another tsp red wine

vinegar and the sugar.

• To serve, scatter the reserved whole herbs

over the sausages, toss together and serve

with the herbed yoghurt and pitta.




A feast

Whether it’s the legendary

wines of Barossa or

the buzzing bar and

restaurant scene in

Adelaide, the succulent seafood fished from

the Eyre Peninsula’s coast or the foraged

foods of Kangaroo Island, the gastronome

will find an abundance of new flavours on a

luxury tour of South Australia with Exsus.

The unchartered gourmet delights of this

corner of the globe blend local produce with

award-winning wines, making a journey to

this culinary oasis a discovery in taste.

Wash down the regional fare with a glass

of smooth Barossa Shiraz or a tangy Clare

With fine wines, quality seafood and artisanal produce, South Australia is both an adventurer’s dream and a food lover’s delight

Dining down underTry a 12-night luxury fly-drive holiday

through South Australia. Starting in

Adelaide, you can visit the National Wine

Centre or take a tram to the seaside

suburb of Glenelg, followed by a dip in

the ocean. In the Barossa, discover

wildlife, cooking and countless vineyards.

Traverse the Flinders Ranges and Clare

Valley – each with its own unique

landmarks – before heading back

to Adelaide for a luxury

stopover. From £2,310

per person including

flights. Visit

exsus.com

for more

details.

Get inspired and visit exsus.com or call 020 7337 9000 to book your South Australian adventure today

Book now and receive a free case of wine!Exsus is offering a mixed case of 12 bottles

of South Australian wine with a foodie

holiday booked to South Australia before

31 October. Quote ‘olive’ upon booking.

Call 020 7337 9000, or visit exsus.com.

Valley Riesling – South Australia’s selection

of vintages will please even the most

discerning connoisseur.

Experience the pleasure of eating freshly

caught shrimp, oysters, cray�sh and tuna

along the coast, and artisan cheeses, hand-

fed Angus beef and tangy citrus fruits as the

foods of choice in the Adelaide Hills.

South Australia’s natural beauty

complements these experiences; from

the weather-beaten formations of the

Remarkable Rocks on Kangaroo Island to

the fossil-laden peaks of the Flinders Ranges.

Together with Fleurieu’s beaches, there is so

much to encounter in this foodie’s paradise.

for the eyes

PRO VS PUNTER AT LONDON'S PAVILION | WINES STRAIGHT FROM THE CELLAR IN PUGLIAALES IN SHROPSHIRE | COCKTAILS IN REYKJAVIK | PICPOUL IN LANGUEDOC

OCTOBER 2014 O 103

Experience gastronomic heaven in Bologna and graze on cinnamon-dusted pastries in Thessaloniki. Plus, we've tracked down Britain’s 10 best Sunday lunches

ENJOY

exploreEAT

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Does an average diner reach the same

conclusions about restaurants as a food

pro, who may get special treatment if recognised?*

Rebecca Seal and O reader Tim

Alexander compare notes on Pavilion

The placePavilion is a restaurant, open to the public,

within a private member’s club. It’s a showcase

for Adam Simmonds, who has won Michelin

stars for Ynyshir Hall and Danesfield House.

On the ground floor is Pavilion’s grand

champagne bar and 60-seater restaurant, with

counters overlooking the open kitchen. Breakfast,

brunch and bar food are served, as well as an

à la carte menu of refined, modern British dishes

and top-drawer steaks. 96 Kensington High

Street, London W8, kensingtonpavilion.com

PRO

PUNTER

versus

SRA RATING 6/10 thesra.orgThe Pavilion’s sourcing is generally

sustainable. The pork and beef are

free-range British meat, the mackerel

sustainably sourced and the gravadlax cured

locally. The chocolate trio uses Fairtrade, and the

peaches are organic. However, Pavilion is not

separating or recycling food waste, nor taking

steps to reduce energy and water use, and is yet

to implement plans to support the local community.

The punterTim Alexander, a dispute

resolution manager from

South Woodford, eats out

once or twice a week.

His best recent dining

experience was at

Harvey Nichols’

Restaurant in

Knightsbridge.

104 O OCTOBER 2014

The proRebecca Seal is a journalist,

editor, TV presenter, author and

the resident drinks expert on

Channel 4’s Sunday

Brunch. Her book,

The Islands of Greece

(£25, Hardie Grant

Books) is out now.

FOOD 9/10ATMOSPHERE 6/10

SERVICE 6/10 TIM’S TOTAL: 21/30

WANT TO REVIEW A RESTAURANT?

For a chance to be O’s next punter, join our reader panel at immediateinsiders.com

Total score

41/60

FOR MORE

PHOTOS

GET THE APP!

See page

123

FOOD 6/10ATMOSPHERE 7/10SERVICE 7/10REBECCA’S TOTAL: 20/30

The punter says...

We were immediately seated at a pleasant table

at the front of the restaurant. I asked for tap

water, which was served from a carafe with

plenty of ice. It was an early Monday evening

and the restaurant was very quiet; however,

we felt rushed at times by a rather impersonal

waiter. We found the service abrupt overall,

though dessert was served by a friendly

waitress who showed genuine interest in what

we had ordered.

I started with wonderful pork belly, served

with the best black pudding I’ve ever tasted,

langoustines and, oddly, pieces of smoked

pineapple. It was beautifully presented but

very small, and expensive at £13.50. My

partner had mackerel with oyster mayonnaise

and horseradish (£7.50). Again, this was

small, but delicious and reasonably priced.

We both had bream (£16.50) for our main

courses. The fish was satisfyingly meaty,

and was paired with confit red pepper, cocoa

beans, a very small slice of Iberico ham and

three small rings of squid, which melted in

the mouth. But an additional £4.95 for just

a few new potatoes was excessive.

Dessert was stunning: I had peach melba

(£7.50), which was simple but gorgeous; my

partner had a lovely chocolate trio of biter

marquise, mint-aerated chocolate and

refreshing mint ice cream (£8.95).

The restaurant is very modern, but lacks

atmosphere and feels a litle clinical. An open

kitchen means you can watch the chefs at

work, and entering the restaurant is like

going into a florist – there is an abundance

of flower arrangements and plants. The food

is marvellous, but the restaurant is let down

by indifferent service.

Bill was £111.62 for two, including service

The pro says...

Service was friendly and fast, despite our

waiter being a barman drafed in to help at the

last minute. There was no problem ordering

tap water, and drinks arrived swifly, although

£7.50 seemed steep for a booze-free cranberry

mojito. *No one recognised me.

Chef Adam Simmonds has cooked at

Michelin-starred restaurants and appears on

Great British Menu, so I had high hopes for

some exciting food. Gravadlax with crab,

pomelo and avocado (£9.95) was simple, tasted

great and was pretily presented, but a rabbit

terrine (£9.50) was underpowered and

garnished with unforkably tiny pieces of

pickled carrot and raw green beans. For

vegetarians, there is only one starter, a rather

boring-sounding tomato consommé, and one

main, a predictable buternut squash risoto.

We asked for a medium-rare sirloin steak

(£24.50), which we got, but with barely any

caramelisation on the surface of the meat it

lacked flavour. The steaks come with

overwhelmingly strong, beer-pickled onions

– whipped bone marrow sauce was a far beter

idea. Lamb with goat’s curd, salsa verde and

aubergine purée (£19.50) was delicious; the

lamb was perfectly pink all the way through

but, like its accompaniments, was sof and felt

like nursery food. Strawberry parfait and pea

sorbet (£7.95) was what I had expected from

the rest of this meal – inventive, clever and fun.

Pavilion has the potential to be an excellent

restaurant, but there were too many odd notes,

like the caterpillar-nibbled pot plant on our

table. Restaurant designers seem to love open

kitchens, but this one sits fully in the dining

room, with a huge bank of extractors that hum

away beneath the background music. It’s big,

busy and buzzing, and although I won’t be

rushing back, it’s sure to do well in Kensington.

Bill was £133.65 for two, including service

THE SERVICE THE SERVICE

THE FOOD

THE FOOD

THE BOTTOM LINETHE BOTTOM LINE

OCTOBER 2014 O 105

explorerestaurant review

106 O OCTOBER 2014106 O OCTOBER 2014

Sunday serviceA good roast is hard to beat. We’ve tracked down 10 of the best places to enjoy this very British tradition and asked each one for

a Sunday best recipe to try at home Words ADAM COGHLAN

Roast pork at

The Chaser Inn, Kent

OCTOBER 2014 O 107

explore

TOP QUALITY AT GREAT PRICES Adjacent to a village church in rural Kent,

The Chaser Inn in Shipbourne is every

bit the definitive English country pub.

General manager Craig White atributes

the 500 diners he welcomes every week

to the Sunday roast menu, which has

remained unchanged in 11 years, and

includes all the classics. He and his team

pride themselves on having won a significant

number of awards endorsing this claim.

‘People know what to expect when they

book, and they know standards remain

high,’ he says confidently.

A consistent menu means everything can

be perfected: head chef Dan Curtis’ key to

winning roast potatoes, for example, is

cooking them in duck fat with chopped

garlic and rosemary, while his thick gravy

is made using veal stock – which is cooked

earlier in the week – combined with all the

roasting pan juices, which he adds fresh

on each day of service.

The Chaser is the focal point of the village:

its various spaces, including the Church

Room, with its high vaulted wooden ceiling,

play host to festive celebrations, as well as

the family Sunday lunch.

Roasts, £12.95–£14.95; 12 noon–9pm.

thechaser.co.uk

SUNDAY BEST Apple sauce with ciderPeel and core 4 Bramley apples. Put a large

knob butter in a pan, add the apples and cook

gently on a low heat. Add 100g of soft dark

brown sugar and stir until dissolved before

adding 100ml good-quality cider. Cook until

the apples start to break down – this should

take about 10 minutes – then stir gently,

leaving a few chunks of apple for texture.

1The Chaser

Inn, Kent

EAT BY THE FIREThe St Kew Inn in Bodmin was built in the

15th century to house workers who were

constructing the church next door. You can

still see many original features, including

rustic stone walls, low wooden beams and

the spikes in the ceiling that were once used

to hang meat when the inn doubled up as

a smokehouse. There’s also an inglenook

fireplace, where logs burn fragrantly in

the winter months, filling the air with

a quintessentially British glow.

Chef Martin Perkins offers a menu that

reflects his taste for excellent quality

produce, and a modern Sunday lunch menu

with a choice of four starters, four mains

and four desserts. ‘I keep the menu short,

so we can concentrate on making what we

do the best,’ he says. Typically, he’ll serve

either pork, lamb or chicken alongside an

omnipresent topside of beef. Each meat

comes with a different gravy, which he starts

2 St Kew Inn,

Cornwall

cooking midweek. Everything is gluten-free

– even the cauliflower cheese, which is made

with a flourless faux béchamel. It’s one of

eight different sides that come with Sunday

lunch, in addition to roast potatoes and

Yorkshire pudding. The inn is dog-friendly,

and there’s a popular beer garden, too.

Roast, £10.50; two courses, £15; three

courses, £19.50; 12 noon-2pm.

stkewinn.co.uk

SUNDAY BEST Cauliflower cheeseBreak the florets from a cauliflower, then roughly

chop the stem and inner leaves. Slowly cook the

stem and leaves in 1 tbsp butter and 50ml water

until soft, then add 2 tbsp of double cream and

boil for 2 minutes. Blend this mixture, season and

mix in 100g Davidstow cheddar to make the

‘béchamel’. Blanch the cauliflower florets in

salted water for 2 minutes, then drain, cover in

sauce and top with more grated cheese. Bake at

180C/fan 160C/gas 4 until golden brown.

108 O OCTOBER 2014

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5The Cornwall Project at the Adam & Eve,

London E9PROVENANCE MATTERSMat Chatfield is well regarded among

London’s top chefs as the man who supplies

them with some of the UK’s best meat and

veg, all from small producers in Cornwall.

Now Mat has taken the helm at the Adam

& Eve in Hackney, having teamed up with

young chef Michael Harrison to ‘produce

the best Sunday roast possible’.

Almost everything comes from the Royal

Duchy – including native-bred beef from

Philip Warren butchers in Launceston. Even

the eggs for the Yorkshire pudding have been

carefully sourced from the same farmer who

supplies the muton, and the menu is

governed strictly by seasonality.

Alongside shoulder and belly of pork, fillet

and topside of beef, and breasts of bone-in

chicken, it is the muton that has become

Adam & Eve’s signature roast. Slow-roasting

whole shoulders and legs means the meat is

never tough and, as the sheep are fatened on

lush Cornish grass, yielding an external layer

of fat, it crisps up into a kind of crackling that

Mat describes as ‘out of this world’. Mat and

Michael also offer a weekly vegan roast with

vegan gravy.

Roast, £14.95, 12 noon-6pm.

@adamandevee9

SUNDAY BEST Crunchy rapeseed oil roastiesExtra-virgin rapeseed oil is thick and deep

yellow, with a high smoking point, which means

you can take the surface temperature of the

potatoes up higher than you can with dripping

or olive oil to produce a deeper, crisper crust.

Peel 1.2kg King Edward potatoes, cut into

chunks, and parboil for 8 minutes in salted

water, then drain. Spoon 3 tbsp extra-virgin

rapeseed oil into a roasting tray and heat in

a 200C/fan 180C/gas 6 oven for 10

minutes. Add the potatoes, turning them to coat

thoroughly in the oil. Roast for 40 minutes,

turning occasionally, until golden and crunchy.

3Roast, Borough Market

GUARANTEED TO IMPRESSRoast’s head chef Marcus Verberne sources his

bread and cheese from Borough Market, where

the restaurant is situated, and his meats from

suppliers around the UK: Galloway beef from

Thirsk in Yorkshire for the Rolls-Royce of

roasting joints, the fore-rib; chicken from

Goosnargh in Lancashire; and pork belly

from Wicks Manor in Essex.

Roasts here are proffered to share. The

menu might include a leg of lamb with ‘Mum’s

mint relish’, with roast potatoes, to which olive

oil, garlic cloves, rosemary and lemon wedges

are added 10 minutes before the end of

cooking. Desserts include butermilk pudding

with spiced Kentish cherries, and sticky date

pudding with toffee sauce and Neal’s Yard

crème fraîche.

Three courses, £35, or £38 with beef;

11.30am–6.30pm.

roast-restaurant.com

SUNDAY BEST Mum’s mint relishMix a handful chopped mint, 1/2 grated apple,

1 tbsp raisins, 1 chopped tomato and 1 finely

diced shallot with a dollop of grain mustard.

Add a splash of cider vinegar, a pinch of salt

and a spoonful of honey and leave for 1 hour.

‘I don’t want to reinvent the wheel, but I do want to bring back all those

great family memories of lazy Sunday lunches,’ says head chef Craig

McKend. At the Cumberland – a classic Victorian bar in the New

Town – you can expect newspapers, real ales and a laid-back

atmosphere. In winter, there’s a roaring open fire, while in summer

there’s a dog-friendly beer garden.

There’s only one roast on the Sunday menu, which changes weekly.

As well as working with a local forager and having ‘an awesome

neighbour who lets us atack her allotment’, Craig says the rotating

menu allows him to reflect the seasons. Carroll’s Heritage Potatoes

supply ‘the best spud for the job all-year round’ and, when the dark

months hit, ‘it’s time to get out those pickles and preserves from the

summer glut’.

Roast, £11.95; two courses, £14.95; three courses,

£16.95; 1pm-6pm. cumberlandbar.co.uk

SUNDAY BEST Perfect pork crackling The day before, score the skin with a sharp knife and put the joint

in a roasting tin. Scald the skin with boiling water. When it’s cool,

pat dry with kitchen paper and put the meat on a tray in the fridge,

uncovered, overnight. The following day, massage in sea salt and a few

thyme leaves. Roast on top of some root veg at 220C/fan 200C/gas 7

for 15-20 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 180C/fan 160C/

gas 4 and roast for 20 minutes per 450g meat.

4The Cumberland Bar, EdinburghA RELAXED LUNCH WITH THE NEWSPAPERS

AN INNOVATIVE APPROACHBret Suton is both a traditionalist and an

innovator when it comes to Sunday lunch.

He uses beef dripping for his roast potatoes,

but for his shoulder of lamb, he uses a modern

technique: the sous vide, where meat is

vacuum-packed and cooked slowly in a water

bath. On Saturday mornings, the joints go in

for 24 hours at 55C, then, on Sundays, they’re

sealed in a hot pan before service. Suton isn’t

coy about what brings Sunday lunch together:

‘We make a bloody good gravy,’ he says.

The White Post is in Rimpton on the Dorset/

Somerset border, and used to boast a bar in

each county. Suton says, ‘At one time, last

orders were half an hour earlier in Somerset,

so everyone would move into the Dorset bar!’

Two courses, £19; three courses,

£25; 12 noon-2pm. thewhitepost.com

SUNDAY BEST GravyToss diced carrots, celery and onions with olive

oil and roast for 20 minutes at 200C/fan

180C/gas 6. Add these to a pan with some

beef or chicken bones, top up with water and

simmer for 2 hours. Strain and reduce with a

glass of red wine or beer for another hour.

Finally, season and add the meat cooking juices.

7Almeida Restaurant, London N1

A FAMILY FEASTBeing just off the beaten track of Islington’s

Upper Street and its innumerable restaurants

lends a certain charm to the Almeida. The

combination of sleek minimalism and

Georgian architecture in the adjoining

theatre are typical of this pocket of London.

The menu draws on excellent meats from

around the UK: roasted loin of English pork,

rib of Scotish beef or leg of Welsh lamb,

placed in the middle of the large tables for

family gatherings in the dining room.

Chef Tommy Boland’s sirloin of Angus

beef, served with traditional sides, comes

from Surrey, and the supplier is regularly

tasked to visit seven or eight farms around

the area to select ‘the best of the best’.

Seasonal vegetables, including baby turnips

and haricot beans, are brought to the table

and served family-style, fostering one of the

great themes of the Sunday lunch: sharing.

Sharpen up with an aperitif on the outdoor

terrace – preferably the punchy Bloody Mary.

Two courses, £20; three courses, £25;

Sunday feast, £33.50; 12 noon–3pm.

almeida-restaurant.co.uk

SUNDAY BEST Bloody MaryFor the mary mix: muddle a 2cm piece cucumber

then mix in 3 dashes Worcestershire sauce, 3

dashes Tabasco, 2 tsp lemon juice, pinch of salt

and pepper, 2 tsp port, 2 tsp dry sherry, 1 tsp

horseradish cream and 1 tsp olive brine. Leave

for 24 hours, then strain. Mix 50ml vodka, 20ml

mary mix*, 100ml fresh tomato juice, and

garnish with sliced cucumbers and lemon.

6White Post, Dorset/Somerset border

exploresunday roast

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OCTOBER 2014 O 109

8Bunch of Grapes, Pontypridd

HOME-GROWN INGREDIENTS AND ALES‘The Bunch’, as it is popularly known, has

been central to the once-industrial community

of Pontypridd for more than 160 years.

This is an inn that prides itself on excellent

ales (many of which come from its own

microbrewery, the Otley Brewing Co), ciders,

and food that makes the most of seasonal

produce from the local area. Two cuts of beef

– silverside (well-done only) and rump

(medium-rare) – come from Breconshire, as

do the loin of pork and shoulder of lamb, and

the chicken is from Newtown in Powys.

Carrots, swede mash, kale and roast

parsnips are served with roasted and boiled

potatoes, evoking a feeling of traditionality.

Many of the herbs and vegetables are grown in

the pub’s garden, and each roast comes with

traditional gravy or head chef Sebastien

Vanoni’s bespoke jus. Desserts range from the

traditional sticky toffee to the more unusual

caramelised pear and green tea cheesecake.

One course, £9.50; two courses,

£12.90; three courses, £15.90; 12

noon-3.30pm. bunchofgrapes.org.uk

SUNDAY BEST Sticky toffee sauceBring 300ml double cream, 250g butter and

250g light brown sugar to a boil, then simmer

until the sugar has dissolved and the sauce

has thickened and darkened to a toffee colour.

At the Parkers Arms in Newton-in-

Bowland, chef and owner Stosie Madi

describes her French mother’s

‘unforgetable’ pot-roast chicken with new

season garlic as the best roast she has ever

had. She always allows the season and what

is plentiful locally to influence what she puts

on the menu. Hogget is served in spring,

lamb in summer and game in autumn, with

traditional pork and beef served throughout

the year. She says it is important that her

busiest weekly service should uphold her

moto of showcasing ‘bounty from the

county’, including Hesketh Bank cavolo nero

and hispi cabbage, estate-shot venison,

rabbit and roe deer, and horseradish from

neighbour, Mrs Farrand.

The pub presides over a quiet, prety

village in the Trough of Bowland. Its four

en-suite rooms enjoy views of the Ribble

Valley and the fells that roll into this Area of

Outstanding Natural Beauty, which provides

plenty of scope for cycling, walking, fishing

and grouse shooting. Provenance maters to

Madi, as does detail, right down to utilising

the abundant wild moorland heather, which

frequently finds its way into buters and

stuffings for local game birds.

Three courses, £28; 12 noon-6.30pm.

parkersarms.co.uk

SUNDAY BEST Butter stuffing for a game roastPut 250g butter, 250g finely chopped dry-cured

smoked bacon, 150g fresh moorland heather

and 100g thyme into a food processor and blitz

together. Season with black pepper, then roll the

mixture into sausage shapes and chill for at least

an hour. This mixture is delicious rubbed over hot

venison joints as they come out of the oven, or

stuffed into smaller game birds before cooking.

Crosthwaite in the Lyth Valley is the bucolic

Cumbrian seting for the much-praised

Punch Bowl. This 300-year-old pub sits beside

quaint St Mary’s Church, not far from Lake

Windermere. The scene is picture-postcard

charming, and the valley seting a draw for

trippers venturing in search of a Sunday roast.

In the kitchen, provenance is king, with

head chef Scot Fairweather sourcing most

of his meat from farms within 20-30 miles.

The topside of beef comes with cauliflower

cheese, carrots braised in orange and

cardamom, butered courgetes, roasties

cooked in dripping, and Fairweather’s

signature Yorkshire puds.

An abundance of seasonal fruit is always

in evidence, including Lyth Valley damsons,

used in the posset with lemon jelly and pink

peppercorn meringue. Book in for

a weekend treat – there are nine boutique

rooms, each with a freestanding bath.

Roast £14.95; 12 noon-4pm.

the-punchbowl.co.uk

SUNDAY BEST Yorkshire puddings Heat the oven to 220C/fan 200C/gas 7 and

put a 12-hole muffin tin in to heat with some oil.

Crack 1 egg per person into a measuring jug

and take note of the volume. Measure out the

same amount of milk and plain flour, then whisk

with some seasoning. Pour the batter into the tin

and cook for 15-20 minute, or until risen.

110 O OCTOBER 2014

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9 Parkers Arms, Lancashire

LOCAL FOOD AND GREAT WALKING

10The Punch Bowl, Cumbria

WORTH A WEEKEND STAY

W I L K I N & S O N S L I M I T E D T I P T R E E C O L C H E S T E R E S S E X C O 5 0 R F W W W. T I P T R E E . C O M

We grow al l the mulber r ies we can

but there’s just never enough

T h e p r e s e r v e o f g o o d t a s t e

M u l b e r r y t r e e s a r e r a r e b e c a u s e t h e y t a ke

a r o u n d 2 5 y e a r s t o b e a r f r u i t a n d we o n l y

h ave t we l ve h e r e a t T i p t r e e , s o m e o f w h i ch

a r e ove r 1 2 0 y e a r s o l d . We d o n’ t k n ow h ow

mu ch i t a c t u a l l y c o s t s t o m a ke a s i n g l e j a r o f

o u r M u l b e r r y C o n s e r ve , o r i f we e ve n m a ke a

p r o f i t o n i t , b u t w h a t we d o k n ow i s t h a t we

l ove i t p a s s i o n a t e l y, a n d s o d o o u r c u s t o m e r s.

W h e n yo u f i n d s o m e , t r y i t a n d yo u ’ l l d i s c ove r

w hy t h e r e ’s n e ve r e n o u g h t o g o r o u n d .

RAISE A GLASSEnjoy a pint, a bottle or a shot of whatever

the locals are having with these four boozy trips

Bitesize breaks

PUGLIAWhen you roll up to a ‘cantine’ in Puglia for some cellar sampling, it’s

highly likely you’ll park next to a beaten-up flatbed truck: your fellow

buyers will be the grape growers.

Near Brindisi, around the 16th-century city of Mesagne in the

Terra dei Messapi, the production of wine is a co-operative business.

Here, away from the main tourist trail, enthusiasm and interest may

get you out the back to taste new, raw wine from tanks in the floor. In

the cool cellars, away from the belting sun, locals will scrutinise your

‘tasting face’ while filling plastic containers from the barrel, the

meter ticking up the sale like a petrol pump.

At Cantine Due Palme (cantineduepalme.it), a co-operative with

1,000 members and an eye-popping red boardroom to house them

all, try jammy, red berry DOP Selvarossa Salice Reserve (negromaro

and malvasia nera) and mineral and floral Anthea (falanghina).

Shop at Cantine Sanpancrazio (cantinasanpancrazio.it) for spicy

Campio Appio Negromaro (€5.70) or rich, dry Primitivo (€4.70).

At Cantina San Donaci (cantinasandonaci.eu, pictured botom

centre and right), don’t leave without award-winning Contrada del

Falco, a plummy blend of negromaro, primitivo and malvasia nero

aged in the barrel. Ask to see the old wine tank downstairs; the

walls have been washed dark purple over time and the bright new

American oak barrels glow against them.

Stay at high-end Tenuta Moreno (pictured botom lef) and, afer

all that tasting, you can relax in its beautiful grounds, cool off in the

pool or even take a masterclass in Puglian cookery.

Double rooms at Tenuta Moreno cost from €69 (tenutamoreno.it). Return

flights from Stansted to Brindisi start from £63 (ryanair.com). More info:

viaggiareinpuglia.it. Buy the wines to try at home from pugliashoponline.comW

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‘As stunning as the Lake District, just without the Lakes.’ That’s

how one local sums up the Shropshire Hills for us, and he should

know. When we pick him up, hitchhiking along a road outside the

pint-sized town of Bishops Castle, he’s literally fallen from the sky,

having just finished sightseeing the county from his paraglider.

Dropping him off close to the town’s Three Tuns Brewery

(threetunsbrewery.co.uk), we continue through arches of beech

trees and towering, over-ripe hedgerows until we reach our home

for the weekend, Litle Cwm Colebatch. One of the remote but

refined properties offered by holiday cotage company Sheepskinlife,

it serves up the perfect mix of chocolate box pretiness (roses around

the door, Aga warming the kitchen) and contemporary style

(butermilk paintwork, deluxe matresses and walk-in rainshowers);

not to mention killer views over a magical garden to fields and woods.

We’re not here to gaze, though, but to drink. This particular

pocket of south Shropshire is home to more than its fair share

of small, independent breweries and, on a tip-off, we head for lunch

at The Bridges (thebridgespub.co.uk) in Ratlinghope, the Three

Tuns’ bucolic country tap house. Set by a brook at the foot of the

sweeping Long Mynd mountain, inside it’s cosy with cushion-

scatered wooden pews and a log burner. Five seasonal beers are

on tap, including Clerics Cure IPA, which also features in the

pub’s beer-batered fish and chips.

The next morning, we stop off at Bishops Castle Farmers’ Market

to buy local Neuadd Fach pork sausages and generously spiced Welsh

cakes, warmed on a litle portable griddle (£1 for 3, caryscakes.com),

before making our way to Ludlow for a pint of toffee-ish Ludlow Best

at the Ludlow Brewing Co. bar (theludlowbrewingcompany.co.uk).

Just out of town is the Ludlow Food Centre (ludlowfoodcentre.co.

uk), an earnest if slightly sterile showcase for the county’s produce.

We’ve had enough booze cruising, we decide. Instead we stock up

here on everything we need to make slow-baked sausages in the Aga

(including a botle of Postman’s Knock rich ruby porter from another

local brewery, Hobsons) and head back to our country idyll.

Litle Cwm Colebatch

sleeps 6; rental costs

from £785 for 3 nights

(sheepskinlife.com).

O offer: Book 4

nights and receive

10% off a stay at any

Sheepskin property.

Standard T&Cs

apply. Book by

31 October, valid

until 31 January

2015. Please quote

O magazine

when booking

SHROPSHIRE HILLS

The Bridges pub

Lunch in the pub’s bucolic seting

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Château Les Carrasses

114 O OCTOBER 2014

explore raise a glass

Huge bearded men knocking back vodka shots for breakfast might

be what you imagine as part of life among the vast lava fields and

mountains of Iceland’s capital but, in reality, things are considerably

more refined. Reykjavik’s picturesque centre, with its Lego-like stack

of colourfully roofed buildings, combines striking modern

architecture with historic museums and galleries. Today you

wouldn’t guess that the country was under varying degrees of

prohibition until 1989: Reykjavik is home to some great bars, but

these days its drinkers are looking for quality rather than quantity.

In the pared-back surroundings of MicroBar (facebook.com/

MicroBarIceland), owned by local microbrewery Gaedingur, aquavit

is eschewed in favour of a range of local and international craf beers;

try a glass of their toasty Stout (£5.65).

For an authentic Icelandic cocktail, head to Slippbarinn

(slippbarinn.is/en) in the foyer of the Marina Hotel. Try a

Perfection (pictured), with vodka, dried cherries, liquorice

syrup, lemon and black raspberry liqueur (£11), or an R&B,

made with rye whiskey, biters and birch sap (£12.50).

Lofid (lofidbar.is/en) is another trendy cocktail hotspot

where you can also sample the local Reyka vodka (£6).

Filtered through lava rock, the result is an incredibly pure

yet creamy spirit with notes of vanilla and aniseed.

Double rooms at the hip Kex Hotel cost from £64 (kexhostel.is).

Return flights from Gatwick to Rejkjavik cost from £80

(wowair.co.uk). More info: visiticeland.com

REYKJAVIK

LANGUEDOCWith ancient Cathar castles, the lofy Pyrenees and a coastline strung

with fishing villages turned gastro hotspots, the Languedoc’s revitalised

wine industry is the icing on the regional cake. We’re staying at the

stylish Château Les Carrasses, a 19th-century castle turned wine resort

where a collection of chic apartments and villas are surrounded by acres

of carefully tended vines. At the chateau’s brasserie we try the Château’s

own wines, including a fresh but rich chardonnay with hints of

pineapple and citrus.

A tour of another winery, Château Capitoul (chateau-capitoul.com) with

specialist local operator Vin en Vacances (vinenvacances.com) includes

a guided tasting on a balcony overlooking the beautiful La Clape, a terroir

so unique it has its own sub-appellation. The Rocaille (€11 per botle)

is an outstanding, full-bodied red with notes of pepper and strawberry.

All Les Carasses’ suites come with kitchens so it's well worth exploring

the local markets. Narbonne’s Les Halles is a must-visit: pick up some fat

lucques olives at Le Royaume de l’Olive and a botle of the region’s zesty,

bone-dry picpoul. When you’re shopped out, order a bavete steak (fresh

from the neighbouring butchers) with chips and salad (€12) at the

market’s character-full in-house restaurant Chez Bebelle (chez-bebelle.fr).

Suites at Chateau Les Carrasses start from €125 per night (lescarrasses.com).

Flights from Luton or Gatwick to Montpellier from £85 return (easyJet.com),

and from Bournemouth, East Midlands, Prestwick, Liverpool or Stansted

to Carcassonne from £53 return (Ryanair.com). More info: sunfrance.com

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1Best for local atmosphere Market

stallholders have gathered to drink

and put the world to rights at Osteria

del Sole (osteriadelsole.it) since 1465;

nowadays they’re joined by students, tourists

and professionals drawn to its old-time vibe

and good wine (from €2 a glass).

2 Best for pizza A beautifully converted

market pavilion is home to Mercato

di Mezzo (Via Francesco Rizzoli 9), the

new hot spot at the heart of Bologna’s historic

open-air food market. Here there are a dozen

stalls serving local snacks. Head upstairs for

the main event, a ricota and mortadella pizza

(€10.50).

3 The cook school TV chef Alessandra

Spisni, who picked up her traditional

style of Bolognese cooking from her

grandmother, is partly responsible for the

recent surge in popularity of handmade

pasta. Afer a half-day course with lunch

(€94.50) at her Vecchia Scuola Bolognese

(lavecchiascuola.com) you’ll come away with

some much-sharpened pasta skills.

4The food tour Book a mortadella tour

with Davide Simoni of the Salumeria

Simoni deli (salumeriasimoni.it) and

you’ll be rewarded with an hour of culture

and history focussed on Bologna’s famous

sausage. Alternatively, buy a few slices

(€1.50) from the deli to make your own

panino filling.

5Best for aurthentic cuisine Tiny

Tratoria Serghei (Via Piella 12,

00 39 51 233 533), one of the city’s

Weekender

BOLOGNAPasta is ever-present in this food-loving city, but make sure you leave space for

chocolate and crescentine

8 Best for chocolate Italy’s

first solid chocolate, the crinkly Scorza

(€5.10/100g), which translates as ‘tree

bark’, was made in 1832 by Bologna-based

Majani (majani.it). Another long-standing

favourite worth stocking up on is the Fiat

(€43/kilo) – a smooth and tender nuty

flavoured chocolate commissioned in 1911

to mark the launch of the Fiat Tipo 4.

TRUST O Food and travel

journalist Sarah Lane has lived in

Bologna for over 20 years.

HOW TO DO ITFlights from Gatwick to Bologna start from

around €60 return (easyjet.com). Double

rooms at the characterful Hotel Porta San

Mamolo (hotel-portasanmamolo.it) cost from

€119. For more information see

bolognawelcome.com

FOR A FOOD MAP OF BOLOGNA AND MORE

TRAVEL TIPS, GET THE APP!

See page 123

Fiat chocolate

at Majani

Salumeria

Simoni

Mercato

di Mezzo

Basilica di

San Petronio

temples of authentic Bolognese cuisine, hides

behind an unassuming exterior. Inside the

cosy wood-panelled interior, choose from

specialities like tagliatelle al ragù (€10),

stuffed courgetes with meatballs (€13)

and sautéed chicory (€5).

6 Venture further A favourite treat for

the locals is a trip into the hills for

fragrant crescentine (fried dough puffs)

and tigelle (baked bread discs) served with

cold meats and cheeses (€14 per person). Find

them at the farmyard tables of Osteria Dal

Nonno (osteriadalnonno.bologna.it).

7Sicilian influence Mediterranean-style

Da Maro (tratoriamaro.it) offers a

lighter alternative to Bologna’s meat-

heavy menus. Sicilian chef Cristian Salas

creates dishes inspired by his native island.

Try the spagheti with mussels, clams, frigitelli

peppers and tomato confit (€12).

Words SARAH LANE

STYLIN

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Words AUDREY GILLAN

ThessalonikiON A SHOESTRING

There’s chargrilled mastelo goats’ cheese

from the Chios mountains served with

sweet fig jelly; a salad of beetroot, almonds

and apaki (smoked pork from Crete);

sfakiani pie, made from chiffony filo pastry stuffed with

cheese; and seared octopus piled on tzatziki, all of it

accompanied by chewy homemade bread.

Here in Sebriko (2 Frangon St; 00 30 2310 557513),

a funky litle restaurant in an unfashionable part of

Thessaloniki, the food is just so good. We are finding it

hard to fathom that before 2012 none of the 12 partners

– ‘sebriko’ means co-operative – bustling around us had

ever worked in a restaurant. But the economic crisis that

paralysed Greece prompted Sebriko’s owners to look for

a different way to make a living, and their unjaded

approach has given birth to a beautiful space kited out

like an old-fashioned grocer’s. Many of the ingredients

that grace your plate are for sale from the shelves and

fridges lining the walls.

Vicky Giannakoulia tells me none of the 12 friends

behind the restaurant had any idea what they were

leting themselves in for. ‘We try to have very low prices

but with the best ingredients from all over Greece,’ she

says. ‘A dinner here for two costs between €20 and €25.’

Sebriko sits just by the western Byzantine walls that

mark the ancient perimeter of Thessaloniki, Greece’s

second-largest city and the one with the most diverse

gastronomic influences.

We see and hear those influences before us in the

Modiano and Kapani markets – living microcosms of the

cultures and peoples that have fed this city. Vendors cry

‘ela, ela, ela’ (‘come on’) or simply bellow the name of

their wares ‘calamari’, ‘prawns’, ‘live snails’, the effect

being a cacophony that competes with the bouzouki

music pouring from tinny speakers and the thwack of

meat cleavers as they hit wooden butchers’ blocks. We

weave our way from stall to stall, the smell of fish fading

into the acerbic tang of olives and feta cheese, through

the woody smell of nuts, to pungent sesame, wafing

over from piles of halva. We scoop up fat almonds,

unforgetable cheeses and jars of thyme-scented honey.

Next we seek out bougatsa, a famous pastry unique to

116 O OCTOBER 2014

A new wave of chefs is putting Greece’s second city – and its seafood, sausages and pastries – on the map

OCTOBER 2014 O 117

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Clockwise from top lef:

the city’s Djinghirli tower;

halloumi with wild fig

jelly from Estrella; a city

centre view; langoustines

at Tasos Sea taverna;

koulouri; the waterfront;

Kapani food market;

bougatsa; a fisherman

at work; hazelnuts

Thessaloniki that is spun through the air by hand until

it is almost translucent. Local girl Dimitra Voziki guides

me to Serraiko (35 Vasileos Irakliou Str; 00 30 23430

43575). I favour the feta cheese version but Dimitra

began eating the sweet cream variety (dusted with

cinnamon and icing sugar) when she was a child and

is lost in Proustian reverie as we come across it here

again (both €1.70).

Thessaloniki just loves pastry. We visit Trigona

Elenides (elenidis.gr) where the filo is folded into cones,

filled with crème pâtissière and glazed with honey,

from €1.30. But my favourite is to be found at groovy

Estrella (48 Pavlov Mela St, 00 30 2310 272045),

which also opened in the wake of the crisis in a site just

opposite Aghia Sophia, one of the oldest churches in the

city. Here, they’ve taken a croissant and filled it with an

orange-scented, almost custardy, cream, €4, and called

it bougatsan. Owner Ioaniss Kapetanakis tells me he is

trying to ‘mix tradition with a new way’.

Further up the hill from Estrella, in a hard-to-find

side street, is Nea Folia (4 Aristomenous St; 00 30 2310

960383), an old-school taverna now run by more young

guns where the average meal is just €17. There’s a

long-since-working jukebox, and siting at the tables

we recognise waiters from some of the places we have

eaten in. Almost everyone we spoke to recommended

the steak here, but we visit during Lent when beef is

not on the menu, so we have fat pork ribs marinated in

petimizei (sweet grape juice) then smoked, as well as

dolmadakia (rice-stuffed cabbage leaves), and my

now-favourite mastelo cheese. Stamnangathi, the wild

greens beloved of locals and served with tiny olives, are

just a litle too stewed for my taste.

Thessaloniki is a university city, home to 120,000

students, so it’s no surprise that it has a reputation for

good, cheap street food. Koulouri, sesame-covered

bread rings, are sold on the street from small carts for

50 cents and there are gyros and souvlaki offered at

almost every corner. But the things to queue up for are

the ‘litle bombs’ at Vomvidia (Vasileos Irakliou 35;

00 30 2310 281939). I arrive before the lunchtime rush

and delight in my four juicy kebab-like sausages and

their accompanying chunks of tomato, onion, pickled

pepper and bread, €5.

The coastal seting means the Thessalonians eat a lot

of seafood (it is the only area in Greece where oysters

are produced). We seek it out in the seaside suburbs at

Tasos Sea taverna (3 Faethonos Street, Nea Krini;

00 30 2310 430523), beneath walls lined with photos

of movie names – Ken Loach, Harvey Keitel, Melina

Mercouri – all of whom have visited the restaurant

during the Thessaloniki film festival.

Topsis Anastasios, the gregarious owner, serves

what his wife Koula cooks in a tiny kitchen over

barbecue coals. There’s a smoky aubergine dip, a

plate of cauliflower, broccoli and cabbage all beautifully

al dente, lemon and olive oil dressed fat langoustines

dipped in flour and salt and fried. And then the fish,

sinagrida (sea bream); like everything else it tastes

fabulously clean and clear.

‘I will do anything it takes to get the best quality

ingredients,’ explains Topsis. The clean, clear taste of

the food at Tasos is testament to this. It’s the best dinner

I’ve eaten not just in Thessaloniki but in Greece. And

brilliant value; €40 for a very big fish and all that comes

with it, €20 without the fish.

HOW TO

GET THERE

Audrey Gillan stayed

at the City Hotel

(cityhotel.gr) where

double rooms cost

from €70. Return

flights from Gatwick

to Thessaloniki cost

from £117 (ba.com).

For more info, see

visitgreece.gr

FOR A LAMB

KLEFTIKO

RECIPE

GET THE APP!

See page

123

118 O OCTOBER 2014

PRICE MATTRESS TOPPERS

These Kensington 200-thread-count coton pillow cases,

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Great deals for O readers on luxurious mattress toppers and bed linen

TERMS AND CONDITIONS Free delivery within 28 days to UK Mainland only, some exclusions may apply. Please call for a postage quote for other areas. Offer ends 31 December 2014. If you are not completely satisfied with your product, please call our customer services on 01483 204455 and we will advise you of the best way to return the goods. Orders returned within 14 days in perfect condition will receive a no-quibble, money-back guarantee (less p&p). **Calls cost 10p per minute from a BT landline plus network charges; cost from other networks may vary.DATA PROTECTION Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of O) would love to keep you informed by post or telephone of its special offers and promotions. Please state at time of ordering if you do not wish to receive these.

How to order: CALL 01483 204455** quoting OLI/0019. POST Please send a cheque payable to JEM Marketing, with OLI/0019 written on the back, stating item(s) and sizes required, to: O Reader offer, JEM House, Littlemead, Cranleigh, Surrey GU6 8ND

These affordable, American-style coton matress toppers are

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READER OFFERS

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OCTOBER 2014 O 119

THE TRADITIONAL PACK IS JUST £62.94 (WAS £69.94 )

PLUS £4.99 DELIVERY* AND INCLUDES:

1 x Campbells Gold Scotch beef topside roasting joint 4 x Campbells Gold Scotch beef rib-eye steaks 4 x Scotch lamb chops4 x Scotch pork loin steaks 1 x 8-pack pork and herb sausages 1 x whole French corn-fed chicken1 x hand-diced Scotch beef stewing steak

• Offer prices above include the 10% discount.

Quality meat for all occasions

TERMS AND CONDITIONS We guarantee that if you have ever tasted better or are not 100% satisfied with your order we will gladly give you a full refund or a replacement for your price. Phone lines open Monday – Friday 8am – 4:30pm, Saturday 8am – 11am. Offer code is strictly limited to one per household and may only be used once. Free standard delivery is available for UK mainland only and is subject to a minimum order value of £50. Additional surcharges may apply. Excludes all other promotions. Offer expires 31 October 2014. Campbells Prime Meat Ltd, The Heatherfield, Lathallan, By Linlithgow, Scotland, EH49 6LQ. DATA PROTECTION Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of O) would love to keep you informed of its special offers and promotions. Please state at time of booking/enquiring if you do not wish to receive these.

How to order: CALL 0844 573 8456 quoting OLIVECPM10 or ONLINE at campbellsmeat.com and enter OLIVECPM10 at the checkout

Save 10% plus receive two FREE Porterhouse steaks when you spend over £30

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'Excellent quality, delicious taste, superb consistency

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• Offer prices above include the 10% discount.

Modern menu decoder

Muhammara or muhummara. A paste of roasted red peppers, nuts, breadcrumbs with garlic

and lemon or pomegranate molasses (recipes vary). You’ll find it on Middle Eastern menus like

the one at Arabica, arabicabarandkitchen.com

120 O OCTOBER 2014

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O’s deputy editor shares essential kitchen skills, how to make top Thai green curry and why it pays to season your cast-iron pans

Which natural yoghurt is best?

Lulu’s notes

lulusnotes.com @lulugrimes

log on tolulusnotes.com

If you haven’t visited O’s blog, lulusnotes.com, please do. It’s where we put news about ingredients and products that have missed our print deadlines, cocktails we think are worth drinking, snippets of info we’ve picked up about emerging trends and,

most importantly, some of our best-ever recipes like chorizo toad in the hole and cinnamon doughnuts.

Please email [email protected] if you have any recipe requests.

THE COLLECTIVE STRAIGHT UP

Describes itself as

‘old school’, but it’s

creamier than any

yoghurt I remember,

and with a

sharper edge.

Great on muesli

and with curries.

(£2.39/500g,

widely available)

ST HELEN’S FARM GOAT’S MILK

Filtered goat’s milk is

used to make this

yoghurt, giving it

a silky texture and

mild flavour. Use it for

dressings, spoon it

over salads and serve

it with dessert.

(£2.29/500g,

waitrose.com)

TOTAL GREEKThick and creamy, it

won’t often split when

cooked. I use it for

everything. Drain

in a muslin-lined sieve

to leave it thick

enough to roll

into labneh (Greek

soft cheese).

(£1.39/200g,

widely available)

LAVERSTOKE PARK ORGANIC BUFFALO

Creamy and

smooth, this buffalo

milk yoghurt has

a light flavour. Use

it with your

breakfast or

spooned onto

a dish of dahl.

(£1.75/450ml,

ocado.com)

Not all natural yoghurts taste the same – some are creamy, others lighter. O has picked four brands to suit every dish, both sweet and savoury

We all know about the ‘protected designation

of origin’ (PDO) for champagne and

parmesan, but ‘protected geographical

indication’ (PGI) covers produce in the UK

too. Welsh lamb was awarded PGI in 2003,

making it one of the longest-standing UK

products to hold the status.

Currently, 40 products in the UK hold the

stamp, which protects them from imitation

by inferior products. It’s awarded to named

regional foods that have an area-specific

quality or character. Go to lulusnotes.com

for recipes

using lovely

Welsh

lamb and

experience

its superior

taste over

cheaper

products.

WHY EAT WELSH LAMB

lulu’s notes

OCTOBER 2014 O 121

Chef Jude Sangsida at Busaba Eathai

(busaba.com) – a chain of modern Thai

restaurants with a simple but authentic

and fresh menu – also runs a hands-on

masterclass; these tips should help you turn

out the best green curry you can.

1. Buy authentic ingredients.

Real Thai shrimp paste often has more

flavour, and certainly more aroma, than

some brands made in the UK. If you can

find pea aubergines, these are tiny

with a bitter edge, and nothing like the

purple ones we’re used to. You can buy

them from thai-food-online.co.uk.

2. Add your paste ingredients one at

a time. An authentic curry paste is never

blended, it’s bashed to a pulp using

a large pestle and mortar. If your pestle and

mortar aren’t large enough, try grinding your

ingredients separately, then mixing them

together. It’s time-consuming but worth it.

3. If your curry never turns out as green

as you’d like, try pounding a few sliced

spinach leaves into your paste.

Courses cost £45pp,

maximum 8 per class, email

[email protected] for details

ESSENTIAL TIPS FOR MAKING THAI GREEN CURRY

MEAT-FREE MONDAY

onion 1, chopped

olive oil

cumin seeds 1 tsp, toasted

chilli flakes or powder a small pinch

carrots 6 medium, peeled and chopped

soft brown sugar 2 tsp


coriander 1 bunch, chopped

low-fat crème fraîche (optional)

• Fry the onion in a little oil until it softens.

Add the cumin and chilli and cook for

a minute, then add the carrots, sugar and

stock and bring to a simmer. Cook for 10

minutes or until the carrots are very soft, then

whizz in a blender. Add some more stock

or water if the soup is too thick and reheat

if you need to. Stir through the coriander,

season well. Add a spoonful of crème

fraîche to each bowl to serve, if you like.

PER SERVING 208 KCALS | PROTEIN 4G | CARBS 34.6G


Carrot and cumin soup with fresh coriander 30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY

Wine list starIsole e Olena Chianti Classico 2011, Tuscany, Italy, 13.5%

The name of this wine comes from two neighbouring Tuscan estates, Isole and

Olena, which were brought together in the 1960s by the de Marchi family. Their

attention to detail in the vineyards and winery have brought about a dramatic

improvement in the wines. This chianti captures the pure, bitter cherry fruit

of the sangiovese grape with additional notes of brambles, herbs, cinnamon

and cloves. Medium bodied, this is a wine to enjoy with rosemary-studded

lamb, tomato-based pasta dishes and roast pheasant.

Find Isole e Olena Chianti Classico on the wine list at The Delaunay restaurant

in London, or buy it to drink at home from Valvona & Crolla in Edinburgh or from

The Wine Society (thewinesociety.com) from £17.50. Christine Austin

Smart cooks... keep cast-iron pans

seasoned. Coat the inside of a clean, ovenproof pan with a thin film of

vegetable oil, then place upside-down in a 180C/fan 160C/gas 4 oven with a baking sheet

underneath for 1 hour. Cool before use. Repeat the process when food starts sticking. Wash

with a soft sponge and no soap between uses.

122 O OCTOBER 2014

LAST BITE

GADGET GURUKNIFE SHARPENER

Sharpening your knives every time you use

them is vital for keeping them super-efficient

long term. This Rota sharpener from Joseph

Joseph is a handy, compact size for fitting

in your kitchen drawer because the handle

folds away. It has two ceramic sharpening

wheels – one to sharpen and one to refine.

Use it each time you use your knives

and they could last forever. (£20,

josephjoseph.com)

in a stand mixer or large bowl and stir the

liquid mixture in, then add the butter and

sugar. Knead with a dough hook or by hand

until the dough is soft and springy and a finger

indent will pop out easily. Cover and leave

until doubled in size.

• Roll and press the dough out on a floured

surface to about 1cm thick. To make the filling,

mix 75g butter and the cardamom seeds with

the sugar and spread it over the dough.

Sprinkle on the raspberries, squishing them

into smaller pieces as you do so. Roll the

dough up along the long side, pinching the

seam together. Slice into 16 pieces. Put the

pieces into paper bun or muffin cases or

arrange on a baking sheet lined with baking

parchment, spacing them apart. Cover with

plastic wrap and leave for 30 minutes.


Brush the buns with egg and sprinkle on some

sugar. Bake for 10 minutes or until the buns

are browned and golden. Brush over the

remaining butter and sprinkle on more sugar.

PER SERVING 308 KCAL | PROTEIN 7.4G | CARBS 43.2G


3½ HOURS | MAKES 16 | EASY

These are not doughy like Chelsea buns – the

dough cooks to a firmer crust when baked in

individual cases. IKEA sells Swedish bun cases

or you can squash down muffin cases.

milk 250ml

yeast 2 x 7g sachets

cardamom 1 tsp of ground seeds (use

ready-ground or break open the pods and

crush the seeds)

eggs 2


butter 75g softened


FILLING

butter 100g softened

cardamom 1 tsp of ground seeds


frozen raspberries 150g (leave

them frozen)

egg 1 beaten

pearled or demerara sugar for sprinkling

• Bring the milk to just shy of the boil and

cool it to warm, then stir in the yeast, the

cardamom seeds and the eggs. Put the flour

Cardamom and raspberry Swedish buns

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stumbled upon the places we feature on

a weekend away, been invited there by an

enthusiastic chef or investigated it afer a tip-

off from a reader. We love hearing your views

and our pro vs punter feature invites you to

become a restaurant critic for O.

Local knowledge Rhiannon ensures the

eat away section arms you with insider info

and recipes from exciting food destinations,

writen by food journalists.

We hope you enjoy O’s recipes, restaurant reviews and travel features all the more because they're served up with a sense of humour.

But we are as serious about eating well and with a conscience as you are. Here’s what the team promises you can expect in every issue:

Gabby Harrington

Picture editor

Lulu Grimes Deputy editor

Duck in red Thai sauce with coconut, peppers, tomatoes and chillies

Gillian McNeill Art director

Gregor Shepherd Chief sub/

production editor

Sarah Kingsbury Sub editor

Anna Glover Cookery writer

Mike Cutting Designer

Christine Hayes Editor

Janine Ratcliffe Food editor

Lamb or paneer and tons of ginger, garlic

and chillies

Braised pork cheek with soured mango from Paul Merrett's book Spice Odyssey

Prawns and lots of veggies

Rhiannon Batten Travel editor

Mango and coconut milk

Lucy Roxburgh Editorial intern

OCTOBER 2014 O 125

lulu’s notes

tips & techniquesREC

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USE IT UPBrilliant ideas for ingredients

left over from this month’s recipes

AFTERNOON TEA TREATStar anise chai teaSERVES 2

In a spice grinder, whizz 2 star anise, seeds

of 2 cardamon pods, ½ cinnamon stick,

5 cloves and 5 black peppercorns until

very fine. Add 1 tsp ground ginger, and

bring to the boil with 200ml whole milk,

100ml water and 2 tsp black loose-leaf

tea. Simmer for 5 minutes or until it’s steeped

as much as you like. Strain using muslin

or a very fine sieve before serving.

HEALTHY LUNCH Zaa’tar houmous with roasted red pepper SERVES 1

Grill 1 halved and seeded red pepper for

15 minutes, or until blistered and starting to

collapse. Mix 2 tbsp houmous with 1 tsp

zaa’tar and a drizzle of olive oil. Add

dollops of the houmous into the peppers and

grate over a little parmesan to serve.

NEW WAY WITH CHICKEN THIGHS Sticky chicken with star aniseand ketjap manis glazeSERVES 2

Whisk 1 tsp honey, 1 tbsp ketjap manis,

1 tbsp mirin and 2 star anise. Pour over

4 chicken thighs and bake at 180C/fan

160C/gas 4 for 30-35 minutes, or until

cooked through. Scatter with red chilli

and spring onion slices to serve.

SOFA SNACK Cannellini bean dipSERVES 4

In a small food processor, whizz 200g

drained and rinsed cannellini beans,

1 crushed garlic clove, 2 tbsp chopped

parsley, 3 tbsp olive oil and lots of

seasoning. Pulse for a few seconds until you

get a smooth dip. Drizzle with a little more oil

and a pinch cayenne pepper. Serve with

rosemary pitta crisps.

SIMPLE SUPPERSpelt and courgete soup SERVES 2

Fry 1 diced onion, 1 diced celery stick and

3 diced courgettes in 1 tbsp olive oil until

softened. Add 3 diced tomatoes and 1 litre

vegetable stock. Bring to a simmer and

season. Add 100g cooked spelt to warm

through, and stir in some chopped parsley,

mint and basil to serve.

GREAT WITH A ROAST Harissa and cumin seed-roasted carrots SERVES 4 AS A SIDE

Toss 200g scrubbed and trimmed baby

carrots with 3 tbsp oil, 2 tbsp harissa

paste and 1 tsp cumin seeds. Season

and tip onto a baking tray. Roast at 200C/

fan 180C/gas 6 for 20-25 minutes, or until

cooked through.

GROWN-UP DESSERTStem ginger rum and raisin ice creamSERVES 1

Pour 2 tbsp dark rum over 1 tbsp

raisins and 1 sliced stem ginger ball

(leave for an hour for the raisins to swell

if you can). Put 2 scoops of good-quality

vanilla ice cream into a bowl and top

with the rum mixture.

STEAKS WITH A TWIST Dried porcini mushroom and garlic salt rub SERVES 2

Whizz a handful of dried porcini

mushrooms in a small blender until fine.

Mix with 1 tsp garlic salt and some black

pepper, and rub over 2 sirloin or rump

steaks. Rub with a little oil and chargrill for

3 minutes on each side or longer, if you like.

Leave to rest and serve with a knob of butter

mixed with chopped parsley.

15-MINUTE SUPPERFish poached in coconut milkwith kaffir lime leaves SERVES 2

Fry 2 tbsp green Thai curry paste and

2 finely sliced kaffir lime leaves in

a little oil until fragrant. Add 200ml coconut

milk and 1 tbsp fish sauce, and simmer.

Put 2 x 100g firm white fish fillets into

the broth and top up with hot chicken

stock or water to cover the fillets completely.

Simmer for 3 minutes, or until cooked

through. Scatter with some slices of chilli

and a few coriander leaves, and serve

with noodles or rice.

NEW LUNCHBOX IDEA Black bean chopped salad SERVES 1

Mix 30g rinsed and drained black

beans with 30g cooked sweetcorn

kernels, 1 diced red pepper, ½ diced

red onion and ¼ diced cucumber.

Squeeze over the juice of 1 lime and

a handful of chopped coriander.

SIMPLE STARTER Mozzarella, beetroot and preserved lemon saladSERVES 4

Tear 2 balls of mozzarella into bite-sized

chunks and divide between 4 plates. Scatter

with 2 cooked and diced beetroot, and

a few basil leaves. Finely dice the skin

of 1 small preserved lemon and whisk

with 4 tbsp olive oil. Season and drizzle

over the mozzarella.

NIBBLE FOR DRINKSSumac yoghurt SERVES 4

Stir together 200g Greek yoghurt,

a handful chopped mint, 1 crushed garlic

clove, 1 tsp sumac and some seasoning.

Sprinkle with a little more sumac, and serve

with crudités and crisps.

Next issue on sale 10 October Get cosy! Comfort food special… Cod & clam chowder Toffee apple brioche & buter pudding | Beef Wellingtons | The new restaurant wine rules

10 quick autumn breaks | Never miss an issue: subscribe now! Call 0844 848 9747 (quote OLP1014)

A sweet and spicy

treat for elevenses

Recipe on page 122

Cardamom

Swedish buns

and raspberry

130 O OCTOBER 2014

last bite

REC

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STYLIN

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STYLIN

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RRIS

Cast aluminium

for excellent

heat conduction,

with stainless

steel handles

Conventionally

shaped inside and

non-stick coated

for easy clean-up

Food cooks faster

without burning

or scorching

Fins ‘lock’ the

fame onto the

pan and drive

heat up the sides

*Flare pans are specifcally designed to be extremely effcient on gas hobs. When used on electric, ceramic and halogen

hobs, the pans won’t heat faster but will still heat incredibly evenly for better cooking results. ‘30% faster’ fgure based

on tests performed by Oxford University on a gas hob compared with an equivalent pan without the special fn design.

To see these revolutionary pans in action, visit fare.co.uk

Flare pans are available exclusively from Lakeland.

Visit lakeland.co.uk, call 015394 88100 or pop into one

of Lakeland’s 68 stores nationwide.

Inspired by the science behind jet engines, Flare pans cook around

30% faster* than conventional pans, saving time and energy.

A world frst, they have been developed using breakthrough

FIN-X technology in conjunction with Oxford University.

Exceptionally effective on a gas hob*, the uniquely designed,

high-performance fns channel heat from the fame across

the bottom and up the sides of the pan, resulting in super

effcient, incredibly even heat distribution.

11Olive Magazine - October 2014

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Transcript of 11Olive Magazine - October 2014