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Builders Arms Hotel. Opposite (clockwise from top left): Smith Street; classic burgers at Huxtaburger; quirky

gifts from Third Drawer Down; Tim White from Books for Cooks; pizza from Ladro; Angelucci’s beautiful homewares;

Tomboy cafe’s industrial fit-out.

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Fitzroy

Fitzroy’s Gertrude and Smith streets are home to some of Melbourne’s best restaurants, bars and quirky design stores. Books for Cooks owner Tim White shares his neighbourhood favourites.

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regarded sources of cooking and food literature in the country, as well as watching a dining and eating culture grow around them. “We both love to cook and eat, and our every waking moment is directed by food, wine, cooking and books,” he says. With this experience and unique insight, Tim takes us through his favourite haunts in Fitzroy – naturally with a touch of Collingwood. In fact, Smith Street borders both suburbs with the odd numbers of Smith being in Fitzroy and the even officially in Collingwood, so when describing places to go in Fitzroy, often Collingwood will get a look in.

WHere to eatRenowned Melbourne chef Andrew McConnell’s skills as a chef and restaurateur are very much present on Gertrude Street. His slick upmarket restaurant Cutler & Co. (55-57 Gertrude St; (03) 9419 4888) is refined in the complexity of dishes and flavours on the menu. “We love the understated nature, the design, the lights. We’ve never had a bad meal and often a sublime one,” says Tim. Dishes such as woodgrilled Kurobuta pork rack and Alsatian choucroute garnie sit next to marron from Western Australia with cauliflower, shellfish vinaigrette and mace. It’s at the pricier end of what’s on offer on the street as Tim acknowledges, “Sadly we can’t afford to eat at Cutler every day, but now the Builders Arms has Andrew McConnell and Josh Murphy [ex Cumulus Inc.] at the helm it’s much easier to enjoy his food more often.” The duo

FFitzroy in Melbourne’s inner-north is one of the city’s oldest suburbs. It’s a wonderful mix of the creative, the bohemian, the hipster and the family unit, all cohabitating in a suburb rich in history. In the past, elements of Fitzroy have been considered dodgy, particularly along its border with Collingwood – long considered a dangerous suburb to visit – but now it’s becoming a burgeoning food and coffee hub. It’s this complex, idiosyncratic edge of Fitzroy and Collingwood that saw this month’s Locavore Tim White and his wife Amanda set up specialist book shop Books for Cooks (233 Gertrude St; (03) 8415 1415) in 2000. “As a community Fitzroy draws on many different groups,” says Tim. “It’s home to much of Melbourne’s Aboriginal community and services; there are many migrant communities who have lived in the flats and or locally. Gangster Squizzy Taylor committed most of his crimes within a kilometre of our shop back in the ’20s, and the local pubs on the corner of Gertrude Street and Brunswick Street were so rough that when we moved to Melbourne in the ’80s, we were told not to go there.” The couple have witnessed significant changes in the area, “When we opened Books for Cooks, South Fitzroy was a bit culturally desolate,” says Tim, but the pair have found themselves to be one of the most highly W

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1. Tomboy cafe. 2. French and Danish furniture at Angelucci 20th Century. 3. Fatto a Manno. 4. Builders Arms Hotel dining room, Moon Under Water.

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DeSign TrAiLAngelucci 20th Century (113 smith st; (03) 9415 8001) is a treasure trove of French and danish vintage and post-modern furniture, lighting and beautiful design.

penelope dunston’s Cottage industry (67 gertrude st; (03) 9419 2430) stocks handmade homewares and clothing made with recycled materials. or browse international designers, including yohji yamamoto, Comme des garcons and Issey Miyake, at fashion boutique Left (161 gertrude st; (03) 9419 9292).

Third Drawer Down (93 george st; (03) 9534 4088) is a storefront museum, design studio and retail space filled with quirky urban gifts and beautiful objects; while Tarlo and graham (202 gertrude st; (03) 9417 7773) carries a collection of antique taxidermy, scientific and medical artefacts and industrial works.

Lovers of Mexican folk art will love Amor y Locura (77 gertrude st; (03) 9486 0270), an antique dealer that specialises in lighting, furniture and curiosities from Central and south america. textile designer rae ganim’s ganim’s Store (61 Brunswick st; (03) 9416 1001) also pays homage to homewares and textiles from around the world.

gluten-free and vegan products. Tim says his family loves their pizzette foccacia and stocks up on their hot cross buns every Easter. “Amanda loves Sandra’s brazil nut and chocolate-chip cookies and we love chatting to them about new biscuit recipes and baking ideas. Fatto a Mano is our go-to spot for lunch, breads and gossip,” laughs Tim.

Wine pro James Broadway and chef Brigitte Hafner opened Gertrude Street Enoteca (229 Gertrude St; (03) 9415 8262), or ‘Enoteca’ as it’s affectionately known, just a few doors down from Books for Cooks, in 2004. “It was and still is a perfect match,” says Tim. “We share our customers as well as our passion for food and wine.” Tim tells of the many times customers sit down with a coffee or glass of wine at Enoteca to read a book they’ve just bought from his shop. “We both revel in the slow-food ideal and share a keen interest in artisan

food production, interesting wines and European food traditions.” The staff from Books get their daily coffee fix at Enoteca and Tim says they’re often tempted by a bottle of something that James has selected from his ‘wine library’. The wine selection is extraordinary, and Brigitte’s menu, while succinct, is built around local produce with a daily special.

took over the much-loved Builders Arms Hotel (211 Gertrude St; (03) 9417 7700) in April 2012. The bistro has approachable pub-style dishes, including fish pie, a daily changing roast (cooked on the rotisserie in the courtyard out the back) and a selection of grass-fed steaks. The pub’s elegant dining room, Moon Under Water, named after a piece written by author George Orwell about how he envisaged his ideal imaginary pub, serves a set menu only that changes every week. “It’s classic, thinking-man’s food and we love the understated nature of things here,” says Tim.

Fitzroy’s popular bakery Fatto a Mano (228 Gertrude St; (03) 9417 5998) was known as the Gertrude Street Organic Bakery when Tim and Amanda moved into Books for Cooks. Mario and Sandra Cucuzza bought the business six years ago, changed the name and “extended the range from a small selection of European sourdough breads to include focaccia, bomboloni, brutti ma buoni and lots of other southern Italian treats,” says Tim. They have queues outside the tiny red shop most lunchtimes, with customers waiting to grab pies, sausage rolls, pizza slices and sandwiches – they also specialise in

“We both love to cook and eat, and our every waking moment is directed by food, wine, cooking and books.”

1. Mexican artwork and religious icons at Amor y Locura. 2. Handmade clothing and pillows from Cottage Industry. 3. Colourful Dibbern Tableware from Ganim’s Store.

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Officially on the Collingwood side of Smith Street, Tim enjoys popping in to Josie Bones (98; (03) 9417 1878), a bar and eatery owned by Masterchef series one alumni Chris Badenoch and Julia Jenkins. This is a venue where you’ll find odd cuts of meat that you may not find readily in other venues; crumbed pig’s head, hanger steaks and kangaroo carpaccio with bone marrow croquettes have graced the menu. The design and fit-out are also part of the appeal – there’s a dramatic four-metre portrait of a rabbit above the bar and door handles moulded into the shape of pig’s trotters. “Chris and Julia truly love what they are doing and that keeps Amanda and me going back,” says Tim.

Another favourite with a strong following is Easy Tiger (229 Gertrude St; (03) 9415 8262). “This is some of the best South East Asian and Thai-inspired food we’ve had since Darley Street Thai with David Thompson over 20 years ago,” enthuses Tim. It’s a big statement but one that seems to echo with many customers’ opinions of this small buzzing Asian diner. With dishes such as coconut braised Sher wagyu beef shin with pickled cucumber, or nahm prik of Queensland spanner crab with fresh coconut and ginger, it’s easy to

understand why. Tim describes it as, “beautiful, light, interesting food that never misses,” and which he and Amanda always recommend to visitors.

Sean Kierce and Ingrid Langtry were one of the early movers of the new wave of businesses in Gertrude Street, opening Ladro (224; (03) 9415 7575) in 2003. Tim and Amanda love sitting in the back courtyard in summer with a Campari, while they wait for the ‘Badabing’ pizza, a favourite with its topping of provolone, fennel and chilli pork sausage, oregano and extra chilli. Tim observes that it was the interest in Ladro that marked the beginning of the current change for Gertrude Street, as people travelled from all over to try the pizzas and interest in the area started to increase.

Tim discovered Sonsa Foods (216-18 Smith St; (03) 9417 1706), a Turkish delicatessen and food store, at the same time he discovered UK/Israeli chef Yotam Ottolenghi’s first cookbook, and for a cookbook shop owner, it was a perfect synergy with the trend for Middle Eastern flavours on the rise in Australia. “We always buy yoghurt, nuts, Turkish bread and pomegranate molasses, in fact anything Middle Eastern from there,” says Tim. The shop is renowned for its haphazard shelving, but is very reasonably priced, the ingredients are always fresh and the range is astounding. “About half of the dishes we’ve cooked from Yotam’s books (and we’ve cooked a lot) have had something sourced from here.”

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BrunSWiCk STreeT tim suggests some places to try in Fitzroy’s other cafe and bar hub. marios Cafe (303 Brunswick st; (03) 9417 3343), has been open since 1986 and is an iconic Italian establishment with its classic dishes, all day breakfast and good coffee. While Babka (358 Brunswick st; (03) 9416 0091) still has queues on weekends for some of the best borscht and dumplings in town after 15 years in business.

stock up on provisions at The vegetable Connection (255 Brunswick st; (03) 9417 2788), which bursts with fresh fruit, vegetables, oils, spices, condiments, meats and charcuterie from local producers.

martha ray’s (85 Brunswick st) is a smart cafe renowned for good coffee and delicious sandwiches. try the soft boiled eggs with zucchini pickle. Slowpoke espresso (157 Brunswick st; (03) 9942 7813) is open daily for breakfast and lunch. the tiny kitchen pumps out simple but homey food, with a focus on organic and local produce.

grub Food van (87-89 Moor st; (03) 9419 8991) serves great seasonal food out of a classic american silver airstream van.

1. For a Thai fix head to Easy Tiger. 2. Julia Jenkins and Chris Badenoch, owners of nose-to-tail eatery Josie Bones. 3. Gertrude Street Enoteca’s vitello tonnato.

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Burger joint Huxtaburger (106 Smith St; (03) 9417 6328) is on the Collingwood side, while its older sibling, Huxtable restaurant (131 Smith St; (03) 9419 5101), is across the street in Fitzroy. The two couldn’t be more different, but have locked themselves into the cool, hipster culture of Melbourne’s inner-north. Huxtable has mostly share plates on its menu, such as jalapeno and cheddar croquettes, and Korean barbecue pork ribs with spicy slaw and chilli gherkin. Opposite at Huxtaburger, queues are often a permanent fixture, especially on weekends. “It’s a cult hipster hangout and we don’t have beards or fixies,” laughs Tim. “But this is the place for a slightly naughty burger.” The beef patties come from wagyu cattle raised on the land of beef farmer and winemaker, Neil Prentice in Moondarra, east of Melbourne, and the quality and consistency of the product clearly keep the crowds coming. Burgers are named after the Huxtable family from ’80s

television series The Cosby Show and Tim says that almost every chef who visits Melbourne eats here (and at Huxtable). “We love Huxtaburger because it does one thing and one thing only, and it does that well,” he says. “Why is it so good? Because it brings chef standards to a simple product.”

It’s further down Smith Street in Collingwood and just over the Johnson Street intersection but Tim says Tomboy

(356; (03) 9486 0162) is a great little cafe that sums up the area. “It’s quirky, with an interesting menu and great coffee.” From the duo behind wholesale baking company Box Brownies, the cafe features all the gluten-free treats from their range, plus a few more. Tim and Amanda like to treat themselves to weekend breakfasts before opening the shop and Tim says there are lots of gluten-free and vegetarian options, too. “Tomboy is local, sustainable, personal and the food is always yum!”

If you love chocolate and fancy sourcing your fix from Madagascar or Ecuador, visit Monsieur Truffe (90 Smith St; (03) 9416 3101), where the cacao bean is celebrated with the reverence of wine or coffee. Upon entering the shop, owner Thibault Fregoni will soon have you tucking into his quality single-origin bars or decadent hot chocolates.

“Tomboy is a great little cafe that sums up Smith Street. It’s local, sustainable, personal and the food is always yum!”

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1. & 2. Ladro’s pizza is legendary. 3. Settle in with a coffee or glass of wine at Gertrude Street Enoteca. 4. Fresh produce from The Vegetable Connection on Brunswick Street.

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WHere to DrINK Rooftop bar Naked in the Sky (285 Brunswick St; (03) 9416 2238) provides one of the best perspectives overlooking Fitzroy and beyond. Enter via downstairs pintxos bar Naked for Satan and take the lift to the rooftop. Small snacks and bigger meals feature on the menu at both bars – “It’s a dangerous place to have a drink because there are lots of great tapas-style snacks and time seems to disappear,” says Tim. “Naked has a Soho feel with its city skyline views.”

It’s a dark den of noise and fancy cocktail work at the Kodiak Club (272 Brunswick St; (03) 9417 3733). Be prepared to wait by the bar on busy nights, but it’s easy to get distracted watching the whiz of bartenders at work in Melbourne’s only bourbon bar, mixing, dicing, muddling and pouring.

Owned by the boys behind Huxtable and Huxtaburger, Bill’s Bar (104 Smith St; (03) 9417 6320) is perfect for a beer or two while you’re waiting for a burger, or just taking in everything that is Smith Street. Tim sums it up well, “Like Goldilocks says ‘it’s just right’ not too hot and not too cool,’” which pretty much relates to everything these boys do. It’s approachable and relevant with great beers and wines, plus some fancy cocktails, too.

Owner and chef Harry Lilai is in the kitchen at the Town Hall Hotel (166 Johnston St; (03) 9416 5055) serving great food in the dining room and the casual front bar, including delicious pasta dishes and slow-cooked beef ribs. Set right

in the heart of Fitzroy, the wine list, which includes a selection of half bottles, and drinks selection make it a perfect drop-in spot on your way to dinner, or just take a seat in the restaurant out the back and let Lilai feed you... you won’t regret it.

A favourite Fitzroy bar that regularly has live music in the small bar and on the roof is Labour in Vain (197A Brunswick St; (03) 9417 5955). It’s a rustic, wooden charmer, full of character and characters, and Tim says he likes to pop in for the odd beer. “It’s one of the classic Fitzroy pubs that, contrary to its name, does not labour in vain,” says Tim. “It’s a nod to old Fitzroy and the sort of pub you would feel at home in if you were having a drink with Jack Irish in a Peter Temple crime fiction novel.”

The Everleigh (1/150-156 Gertrude St; (03) 9416 2229) is an award-winning old-school dark and dusky bar, with lots of leather booths (there’s no standing room), table service and well-dressed staff, who are perfectly versed in finding the cocktail that will be just right for you. It’s an escape from everything at the Everleigh and Tim loves it. “They serve uber-classy cocktails with more than a nod to the heritage and tradition of the cocktail – one sip and you’re in Manhattan, Paris or London. I love the old and rare cocktail book library on the wall, too.” d.

1. Smith Street, Fitzroy. 2. Naked for Satan on Brunswick Street. 3. Gluten-free treats from Tomboy. 4. Huxtaburger has a cult following.

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