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Clare Valley. Opposite (clockwise from top left): Highland cattle at Mitchell Wines; Main North Road

in Auburn; Pikes wines vineyard; Locavore Kerri Thompson from Wines by KT; The Rising Sun Hotel;

Sevenhill Cellars winery; condiments at Wild Saffron.

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Clare Valley

South Australia’s spiritual home of riesling, Clare Valley, is a hidden gem among undulating rows of grapevines and plush pastures. Winemaker Kerri Thompson guides us through the region’s highlights.

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she says. “It’s quite a unique grape-growing area because it’s so far north, but elevated. With rolling hills and different aspects, there are so many interesting areas to be growing grapes. The rocks, the dirt and the lie of the landscape are why I feel so inspired to make wine here.” But it’s not the only attraction. Kerri and her partner, wine writer Tim White, live in a cottage in the tiny settlement of Watervale and, whether it’s shopping at the weekend markets, sitting in her favourite eateries or the regular “bread and red” catch-ups with friends, she loves the Clare lifestyle. “What’s wonderful is that I certainly feel well loved in this community,” she says. “There are such great people here. It’s very social.” Not that she would describe herself as a local just yet.“I don’t know if you’ll ever be a local in Clare unless you were born here,” Kerri laughs. “I remember seeing an obituary that read: ‘although not a local, she lived in the community for 80 years’.”

WHERE TO EATClare finally seems to have the restaurant to give it the long-overdue regional dining cred it deserves. Young chef Dan Moss recently returned from working in Europe and Canada to open Terroir (Main North Rd, Auburn; (08) 8849 2509), a small restaurant with a short, constantly changing menu and a mantra of using produce from within a 100km radius. “I love the fact that Dan is young, enthusiastic and has

CClare Valley might not have the celebrity status of that other, more illustrious, valley down the road, but while the Barossa boasts the well-known wine brands, Clare has some qualities its larger rival can’t match. For a start, it feels like a proper valley as, starting out from Auburn, you drive through a string of little towns leading to Clare itself, a bank of rolling hills on either side of the road a constant presence along the way. Depending on the season, you might pass bronzed vineyards glowing in the autumn sun, a field of golden canola, lush paddocks dotted with grazing sheep, or old stone cottages with plumes of wood smoke rising into the clear twilight. This is still a land of farmers with a strong sense of community at every turn. The region is also the spiritual home of riesling, with names such as Grosset and Paulett the standard-bearers for a wine that can transform with age from lip-smacking lemons and limes to a magical golden elixir.

It was a chance to work with this wine variety that brought this month’s Locavore Kerri Thompson to the district 15 years ago, and she has lived here ever since. Over that time, first at Leasingham Wines, and then with her own brand Wines by KT (winesbykt.com), she has developed a following for her single- vineyard winemaking style. “Clare is a real little oasis,”

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1. Chef Dan Moss with brother and business partner Rohan Moss. 2. Terroir dining room. 3. Terroir’s roast pork cutlet with grilled pork belly, golden beetroot, lemon butter and fresh horseradish. 4. The fertile landscape of the Clare Valley.

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winemaker Tim Adams, it combines a cellar door with a restaurant custom-built for an afternoon of relaxed grazing. “There are lots of different things to choose from the tapas-style menu,” says Kerri. “The soft shell crab with star anise and orange glaze is great.” Spanish staples

– think chorizo and chickpeas – are listed alongside mini duck burgers and spring rolls, in a menu with a broad global span.

Another relative newcomer to Clare is The Little Red Grape (148 Main North Rd, Clare; (08) 8843 4088). “It’s a one-stop shop with something for everyone,” says Kerri. At one end is a large bakery with pies, pasties, wicked bee sting cakes (sweet buns filled with custard) and sourdough loaves. Beside it is a cellar door shared by a mix of boutique labels

without their own facilities and, at the far end, a homewares shop has a good range of well-curated products.

The Rising Sun Hotel (19 Main North Rd, Auburn; (08) 8849 2015) has been looking after travellers for more than 100 years. “If I’m heading out to the pub, this is where I go,” says Kerri.

such a great philosophy,” says Kerri. “He’s trying to stick with as much local produce as possible. The presentation of his food is beautiful and the desserts, such as the churros and doughnuts, are awesome.” Expect fish, such as leatherjacket or garfish sourced fresh from Port Pirie with a sublime fennel cream, and locally farmed beef and lamb prepared by Dan’s butcher brother Rohan, who works in the kitchen and has recently come on board as a business partner.

For lunch, it’s hard to top a perch on the verandah at Skillogalee (Trevarrick Rd, Spring Gully; (08) 8843 4311). Unless you manage to nab the table under the olive tree, of course. Head chef Nicola Palmer (daughter of owners Diana and Dave) grew up in the kitchen here and has a feel for the relaxed style of fare that suits this setting. “It’s a beautiful cellar door and a wonderful restaurant with rustic, regional fare,” says Kerri. Choose from substantial mains such as a kangaroo and mushroom pie, or graze on the vine-pruners lunch while you sample Skilly wines. Alternatively, head to the tasting bench before your meal.

Mr Mick (7 Dominic St, Clare; (08) 8842 2555) has brought new life to the historic Leasingham winery, where Kerri’s Clare adventure began all those years ago. Now owned by

“Clare is a real little oasis, with rolling hills and interesting areas to grow grapes.”

1. Lunch is served on the verandah at Skillogalee 2. Mr Mick has a tapas-style menu. 3. & 4. The Little Red Grape has a large bakery, boutique cellar door and homewares shop.

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“The Rising Sun burger is great, and look out for the fish pie if it’s on.” Choose from the saloon bar, where the steak sandwich is made with local Wirreanda beef, or cosy in for dinner in the Stables Restaurant. There’s a range of rooms available, as well, so you can settle in for the night.

A 30-minute drive from Clare is The Black Sheep (3 Upper Thames St, Burra; (08) 8892 2886) – an experience not to be missed. Italian Paolo Vitozzi and his Australian wife, Clare, have created the kind of pizzeria/osteria you’d expect to find only in a little Tuscan village, which is precisely where the couple lived before coming to this historic mining town. “These guys are fabulous,” says Kerri. “The place is so generous and welcoming.” Clare keeps service humming, playing her favourite blues tunes on an old turntable, while the woodfired oven at the heart of the dining room supplies a constant flow of puffy-crusted pizzas, as well as roasted lamb or pork. Locals and tourists sit shoulder-to-shoulder and everyone helps themselves from the old beer fridge.

While you’re in town, it’s also worth trying White Cedars Cafe (24 Commercial St, Burra; (08) 8892 2867), which serves authentic Indonesian cuisine all-day.

WHERE TO DRINKClare Valley has more than 30 cellar doors, many of them hidden up little laneways in the hills, which branch off either side of the main road “It’s a lovely area for a meandering drive,” says Kerri. “You can get a little lost around the back roads – but that’s not a bad thing.”

Knappstein, (2 Pioneer Ave, Clare; (08) 8841 2100) “is a good place to start, with something for drinkers of all persuasions,” says Kerri. As well as a highly regarded selection of wines made from locally sourced fruit, the company also operates a micro-brewery at the historic site, where beer has been made since the late 1800s.

To get a true sense of the landscape, the cellar door at Paulett (Sevenhill-Mintaro Rd; (08) 8843 4328) looks over the vineyards, paddocks and majestic gumtrees. “I always send people there,” says Kerri. “It has killer views and they make some of the best riesling in the district.” This is the perfect place to compare a fresh riesling, with its zippy, citrus characteristics, alongside one that is older, golden and toasty.

In the same vicinity, Pikes (Polish Hill River Rd, Clare; (08) 8843 4370) has recently expanded its production to include less familiar Italian varieties such as fiano and an excellent reserve sangiovese. Just up the road is The Wilson Vineyard (open weekends only; (08) 8843 4310), where the artwork labels and ageing potential of its riesling have given it a cult following.

For a true sense of the history of the region, a visit to Sevenhill Cellars (College Rd, Sevenhill; (08) 8843 4222) is essential. This is where the Jesuits started making sacramental wine back in 1851 – the first produced in the area. They’re still making it today, along with the excellent table wines that are

1. & 2. Clare and Paolo Vitozzi serve woodfired pizza at The Black Sheep. 3. Paulett winery .4. The Rising Sun Hotel.

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available for tasting. The grounds are magnificent, including the St Aloysius’ Church, and the gardens are perfect for a picnic.

Over on the western side of the main road, take the winding route through the Skilly Hills above Penwortham to a cluster of wineries where you could easily spend a full day. Kilikanoon (Penna Lane, Penwortham; (08) 8843 4206) was named winery of the year by James Halliday in his 2013 Wine Companion, quite an achievement for a modest business that only started operations in 1997. Its tasting room is charming and intimate – if you’re lucky you might even have it to yourself.

The silver labels of Mitchell Wines (Hughes Park Rd, Sevenhill; (08) 8843 4258) are one of Clare’s best known brands and its cellar door, in an old sandstone apple shed, is full of character. If you’re there close to lunchtime, head to Skillogalee (see Where to eat), which is just up the road.

The homey cellar door of Crabtree Wines (1 North Terrace, Watervale, (08) 8843 0069) is based in a homestead built circa 1849. Take in the stunning view across the valley with a cool, crisp glass of riesling or, during the winter months, pull up a chair in front of the fire and enjoy a glass of muscat.

Kerri also recommends calling in at O’Leary Walker (Main North Rd, Leasingham; (08) 8843 0022). “The view is spectacular and they have a great crew of people,” she says.

RIESLING TRAILFor even the mildly energetic, cycling along the valley’s Riesling Trail is a brilliant alternative to the more conventional cellar door tours. The 35km route runs from Auburn to Clare along a disused railway and its mild gradients and smooth surface make it easy to keep the pedals turning. Kerri’s tip is to hire a bike from Cogwebs (Main North Rd, Auburn; 0400 290 687), where you can also buy housemade sausage rolls and other goodies. “For people on a bike all day, you can throw a few things in a backpack and head off,” she says.

WHERE TO SHOPA market is held every weekend at different venues in the region but Kerri’s favourite is the Sevenhill Producers’ Market held on the last Saturday of the month. Here, you will find many local food heroes, including London Hill artisan breads and produce, Denham Farm beef and Bryksy’s Honey.

If you’re after supplies at other times, Kerri recommends the Becker’s IGA supermarket (Main North Rd, Auburn; (08) 8849 2111) in Auburn. “It would have to be one of the best stocked small community supermarkets. You can put together a seriously good antipasto or cheese selection.”

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1. Kilikanoon winery – named winery of the year in James Halliday’s 2013 Wine Companion. 2. The magnificent grounds and gardens of Sevenhill Cellars are the ideal spot for a picnic lunch. 3. Nick Walker and David O’Leary from O’Leary Walker wines.

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The two best butchers are across the road from each other in Clare. Mathie’s Meat Shoppe (275 Main North Rd, Clare; (08) 8842 2818) has won state and national sausage-making titles and also supplies Wirreanda beef that is farmed just west of the valley. Days Quality Meats (292 Main North Rd, Clare; (08) 8842 2805) is the only place in the Clare Valley that sells award-winning Savannah Lamb. “You can ring them beforehand and order what you want,” says Kerri. And good-quality fruit and vegies are available next door at BJ’s Fruit Barrow (290 Main North Rd, Clare; (08) 8842 2486).

Also in this shopping strip, Wild Saffron (288 Main North Rd, Clare; (08) 8842 4255) stocks everything you’ll need for a picnic-to-go, as well as good coffee, condiments and regional favourites such as Pangkarra Pasta. They also serve breakfast (using local Mathie’s bacon and Rohdes eggs) and lunch.

WHERE TO STAyDavid Hay and Michael Speers have a long tradition of running Clare’s most desirable accommodation and this continues with their new purpose-built property, Thorn Park by the Vines (Quarry Rd, Clare; (08) 8843 4304).

From exquisite furnishings to views over bush and vineyards, this is regional luxury at its best. David is also an excellent cook and dining in is recommended.

Among the bed-and-breakfast options, Kerri recommends Dennis Cottage (Commercial Rd, Watervale, Auburn, (08) 8843 0048) and the three other homes run by the same operator. Skillogalee (see Where to eat) also has accommodation of various sizes close to its cellar door.

The amenities might be basic, but Paxton Square Cottages (Kingston St, Burra, (08) 8892 2622) are comfortable and affordable, as well as giving an insight into how the area’s copper miners lived – the cottages were built for miners more than 150 years ago by the SA mining association. d.

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“With exquisite furnishings and views, Thorn Park by the Vines is regional luxury at its best.”

1. & 4. Thorn Park by the Vines. 2. Stock up on goods at Wild Saffron. 3. Find local produce at the Sevenhill Producers’ Market. 5. Clare Valley’s famed vineyards.

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