Vol. XLIX No. 1 January 2017 oop - Society of Cosmetic ... · personal care ingredients, many...

LOCAL SCC EVENTS

2017 MWSCC Dinner and Education Meeting

January 10th

February 14th

March 14th

April 11th

September 12th

November 14th

2017 MWSCC Board Meeting

June TBDJuly TBDDecember TBD

S C C o o pVol. XLIX No. 1

January 2017

Save the Date: Educational Dinner Meeting

February 14th, 2017$35 for Members, $45 for Non-Members,

$20 for Emeritus and Students

ContentsHere’s the SCCoop ......... 2

Chapter News ................. 3 – 6

In Memoriam................... 7

Scholarships ................... 8

Feature Article................. 9 & 10

IFSCC photos .................. 11

SCCoop is published 8 times per year for members of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Midwest Chapter, Inc.

Newsletter editor: [email protected]

Advertising: $500 annually for each 2 X 2 space$850 annually for each 2 X 4 spaceAd runs Feb 2017 thru Jan 2018Contact for ad placement and/or waiting list information: [email protected]

MWSCC Chapter Educational Dinner MeetingJanuary 10, 2017

Health and Safety Challenges in Personal Care Products

Each day, global impact seems to make the world smaller and smaller. Personal Care companies wanting to grow frequently look to expand into new markets. In order to do so, companies need to be compliant across a vast array of laws and restrictions. While the European Union often leads the way in terms of regulations and policies regarding personal care ingredients, many emerging nations are adding their own variations. ANGUS will be presenting a regulatory overview of amino alcohol chemistries that can keep formulators ‘above-the-curve; on these evolving health and safety standards. Raising the bar on non-irritating, hypoallergenic, and non-carcinogenic properties is demanded by consumers, therefore pushing formulators to re-optimize all performance parameters throughout the lifecycle of a product. In additional to global compliancy, ANGUS chemistries offer molecular engineering to improve performance through multi-functional properties to make your best formulation perform even better.

Speaker:

Mary Redmond is a Senior Applications Specialist with ANGUS Chemical Company. A chemistry and biology background allows for a dual role in the two industries with the most stringent awareness of environmental and health activism: the Personal Care industry and the Paint and Coatings industry. With six regional laboratories keeping a watchful eye and communicating INTEL on formulating, guidelines, regulations, raw materials, and trends across the globe, Mary and ANGUS are able to link innovation and responsiveness for more life-friendly and earth-compatible ingredient solutions so formulators and consumers can depend on personal health and wellness in their favorite consumer products.

Continued on page 4

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SCCoop January 2017 • Vol XLIX • No. 12

Happy New Year to all the members of our wonderful Midwest Chapter!Hopefully everyone enjoyed the holidays surrounded by family, friends and loved ones. With the New Year here, it is always a great time to reflect on all of the great accomplishments of 2016 as well as look ahead to another prosperous year at our Midwest Chapter. I would like to express my most sincere gratitude to Melissa Tolla, our 2016 Board Members and all of our gracious volunteers throughout the years. It is with all the love and support by our members and volunteers that make our chapter thrive and progress forward.

As a recap, our November educational dinner meeting was filled with excitement as members reunite, reflect, and exchange ideas and thoughts. Our evening started with an on-trend insight into effect pigments by Jeanmarie Cakouros (BASF), followed by a technical presentation by Betty Aucar (BASF). Keeping with tradition, our Area II Director Bart Maxon installed our 2017 Board and thanked the 2016 Board for all their hard work and dedication to the society. I’m excited to announce the following officers of our 2017 executive board: Cindy Yu (Chair), Debbie Zartler (Chair-Elect), Peggy Bennett (Secretary), Christine Daraska (Treasurer), and Frank Wagner (Treasure-Elect).

Next, Dr. Gene Frank presented a new talented group of students with our annual graduate and undergraduate Midwest SCC scholarship awards. Michelle Shalaby, Andrea Diugan, Munazza Hakim, and Paige DeGarmo were awarded the 2016 Barbara J. Morley Undergraduate Scholarships. Rebecca Thompson and Anna Shishina were recipients of the 2016 Midwest SCC Graduate Research Scholarships. On behalf of the Midwest society, congratulations to all of our award winners and best wishes on their future endeavors! We hope to see many of them back at our meetings!

There was also a warm moment of remembrance dedicated to one of our very own members, Jennifer Seper that passed away recently. Elvia Isguerra of Bria Research Labs stood before the chapter to deliver a heartfelt message about the positive impact that Jennifer had on not only her but everyone around her. With November being so close to the holiday season, I would like to thank everyone for donating toys to our seventh annual Toys for Tots drive. We were joined by our special guest Marines and will continue on with this charitable tradition. I’m sure all of these gifts will bring delightful joy to those children in need. I’m looking forward to getting to know every member of our Midwest Chapter at our next Educational Dinner meeting on Tuesday, January 10, 2017. For those that are interested in getting more involved with the Midwest SCC, please let us know as we are always looking for volunteers to participate in our various committees.

Thank you,

Cindy

MWSCC

Here’s the SCCoop…

S C CMidwest Chapter2017 Board MembersChairpersonCindy [email protected]

Chair - ElectDebbie [email protected]

SecretaryPeggy [email protected]

TreasurerChris Daraska [email protected]

Treasurer - ElectFrank [email protected]

Area II DirectorsChris Heisig [email protected]

Yulia [email protected]

House ChairLisa [email protected]

Program ChairCrystal [email protected]

Newsletter EditorMelissa [email protected]

Advertising ManagerAshraf [email protected] SCC OfficesFor member address changes:www.scconline.org (212) 668-1500


SCCoop January 2017 • Vol XLIX • No. 1 3

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Left to Right: Peggy Bennett (Secretary); Christine Daraska (Treasurer); Debbie Zartler (Chair-elect); and Cindy Yu (2017 Chair). Not pictured: Frank Wagner (Treasurer-elect)

Chapter News



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Cost:$35 for members$45 for non-members$20 for Emeritus$20 for Students

Schedule: 5:00 pm Board Meeting5:30 pm Social Hour6:15 pm Speaker Presentation7:00 pm Dinner

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Chapter News

2017 SCC DuesRenewal Process

Dues for 2017 needed to be paid to National SCC by Dec 31, 2016. There is a $25 late charge for dues paid after Jan 1, 2017.

If you are unemployed, you may qualify for a dues waiver for 2017. Please contact National SCC so that they may advise you. A dues waiver allows one to attend certain SCC events without paying registration fees so that one may find employment rapidly.

To pay your dues please go to www.scconline.org and click on the member portal on the upper right hand side of the screen.

Your login is your email that the SCC has on file.

Your password is your initials (first letter of your first and last name) in caps followed by your member number.

For questions please contact:

Colleen DaddinoMembership CoordinatorSociety of Cosmetic Chemists

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In Memory of Jennifer M. Seper It is with deep sadness that I announce the passing of fellow MWSCC Member Jennifer M. Seper who died October 2016 in Orland Park, Illinois.

“The untimely passing of Jennifer Seper leaves our Midwest SCC family with a heavy heart. Jennifer was part of the Personal Care industry for more than 25 years and a long-time member of the SCC. She received her MS in Chemistry from U of I in Chicago and had many roles at Helene Curtis and Unilever, from the Analytical team to Product Development. At her time at Bria, she enjoyed the variety of customers, projects and roles she undertook. She was always conscientious, collaborative and professional and demanded only the best of herself. I was always pleased when she was part of my project teams, because I knew that I could depend on her to meet timelines and deliver quality data. She worked so hard and was so pulled together that I never wanted to disappoint her in turn. She was never afraid to speak up and made important contributions to my personal success. She was a good friend, and will be sorely missed. Eternal be her memory.”

- Marcie Papadakis

What can I say about such a unique and special person? Jennifer Seper was not only a great person to work with, but loved what she did and was such a brilliant mind. I had the pleasure of working with her for over 6 years but have known her for over 11 years. I remember when she met me she said I was the most responsible young lady she had ever met. She went beyond just being my coworker; she was my mentor and taught me a lot of what I know today. She helped me learn everything I needed to know to do my job more efficiently. She was very stern and detail oriented in her work, but did an exceptional job. She never gave up on me and always gave me advice to continue my education. She was so caring with me that she offered all her help to tutor me in anything I needed. I honestly believe every person touches us in some type of way, and she touched my life in a special way and she will always be in my heart and I will always remember all her good wishes and advice she would give me for a better future.

- Elvia Isguerra

MWSCC

In Memoriam



MWSCC

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MWSCC

Feature Article

Wild and Wacky Hair Colors by Rebecca Wietting

I don’t know about you, but the new trend I’m seeing everywhere with people sporting wild and wacky hair colors has amazed me. At first I thought it was going to be only the more daring individuals with pink, green, purple, or blue hair who wanted to imitate Katy Perry and other celebrities. Now, it is becoming quite main-stream and to my surprise parents are paying a lot for their teens to have all sorts of hair colors. One of the local public high schools where I live even changed their policies to allow the new hair colors because of pres-sure from the parents. I guess some parents feel this is not a big deal if a kid wants to have a funky hair color. Apparently, neither do a lot of employers since I am also seeing people working in all sorts of retail and service jobs with everything from tattoos and piercings to wild hair colors.

Hair colorists are benefiting from the fact that these new hair colors require more frequent maintenance than traditional colors. The new colors of pink, green, blue and purple tend to fade very quickly. They are also a challenge from the beginning for people with dark hair. The dark hair has to first be bleached and then dyed with the wild color. Some recommend a deep conditioning step between the bleaching and dyeing steps but others warn against this as the dye won’t soak in as well. Parents have been warned to be prepared to fork over their pocketbooks on a regular basis. These colors need maintenance in 4 weeks or less! Regular colors last 6 to 7 weeks by comparison.

The recommendation is to use deeper colors for dark hair and use the pastel colors for lighter hair. That would reduce some steps in the process because otherwise, the dark hair has to be bleached first in order to get a pastel color to show up. It seems to also be a problem even with light blonde hair to take up the correct color as I have witnessed some blonde hair that has faded to a grayish color that wasn’t the initial intention.

Another trend is to have one portion of the hair dark and another portion of the hair much lighter called om-bre ends. For this the hair colorist must only treat a portion of the hair. A more hidden look is called a peek-a-boo where the hair underneath is colored so that it only really shows up when the hair is styled into an updo. This might be the best option for people in more traditional jobs.

Hydration is very important as always for any chemically treated hair whether it’s been bleached or dyed. The more frequent chemical treatments with the wilder colors is more damaging to hair. Therefore, intense condi-tioning will be highly recommended to repair the damage.

A new trend is called the SunBun which was created by a colorist in London named Harriet Muldoon. For this one, the hair is pre-lightened unless it is already blonde. Next, it is divided up into several small buns all over the head, and each bun is colored in as many colors as you want. This is a good technique for people who want wildly multi-colored, rainbow hair inspired by the days when we tie-dyed our T-shirts.

Panel hair coloring is a technique that can give a waterfall effect by providing contrast. Dark hair must be pre-lightened. Sections or panels of hair are separated to be colored with alternating colors or shades. Colors are chosen depending upon whether a dramatic, crazy effect is desired or a more subtle one. Interestingly enough, plastic wrap similar to saran wrap is being used to hold color onto sections of hair now as a new tool option compared to the aluminum foils that have been used for years. It is tricky when washing out the colors at the sink to make certain that the light shades don’t get darker hair color on them. The foils or plastic wrap needs to be removed from the darkest colors first and rinsed out prior to the light, porous hair. The point of panel hair coloring is to keep alternating hair sections with different colors so you don’t want that effect to be lost when rinsing out the product.



MWSCC

Feature Article

Wild and Wacky Hair ColorsThere are questions regarding how young is too young to color a child’s hair. Children’s hair and skin is much more sensitive than adults. Their hair is more fine and fragile and susceptible to damage from chemical treatments. Pre-pubescent hair is not recommended for being dyed. Hormones play a big part as a child’s hair can go through many phases and changes going from curly to straight or from thin to thicker. It can change colors naturally as many blonde children become teen brunettes for example. Bleaching and dyeing uses harsh chemicals such as ammonia and hydrogen peroxide, and it must also be considered how to protect children from having bad allergic skin reactions as their scalp is very susceptible. It is recommended to discuss the issue with your pediatrician before doing any permanent chemical treatments on a child. It is much preferred to use temporary methods such as colored chalk or clip-on colored strands. However, to my amazement, I am seeing more and more young children with colored hair that is the permanent version.

It might also be appropriate to ask how old is too old for these wild hair colors? The other day at the grocery store, I saw a lady with bright purple streaks in her gray hair that matched her purple sweater, and it really made me wonder. It must be a new version of the old poem “when I am an old woman, I shall wear purple with a red hat which doesn’t go and doesn’t suit me…” Now, it can be taken to a new extreme of really dark purple hair, and I find myself trying not to stare at people with these strange colors of pink, green, blue and purple. I just can’t get used to it yet. The wild colors can give a new meaning to the term “blue hairs”. On a more serious note, older people have higher skin sensitivity to consider. Frequent hair dye exposure could be an issue as the skin tends to become much thinner as we age.

The semi-permanent wild hair colors need the same after care as regular colors. It is important to use color-safe shampoos and conditioners to keep the color vibrant for as long as possible. Products containing UVA and UVB filters can help protect hair from fading. It’s also recommended not to wash hair on a daily basis to minimize the wash-out of color and allow naturally occurring oils to protect the hair and color. Another option could be the dry shampoo products to avoid washing hair on a daily basis so that the colors remain vibrant longer.

The choice of shampoo is an important consideration. Traditional, harsher surfactants may strip hair color faster than more gentle sulfate-free versions especially the shampoos specifically designed for color-treated hair. Surfactants can be compared for their level of harshness using a HET-CAM analysis. This demonstrates the harshness to the eyes by treatment of a fertilized egg and how much redness is caused. SLES and SLS score as much harsher than CAPB and APG’s for example. Therefore, shampoos that add mild surfactants will be less harsh to the eyes and the hair. A new product on the market is a cleansing conditioner which has a very mild shampooing effect. The one I tried has very little foaming so I feel it is a good option when the hair isn’t really dirty due to a daily washing routine. The cleansing conditioner gently cleans the hair and then it is optional whether you also need a heavier conditioner to follow this step. I personally use both to make sure my hair is detangled.

At the end of the 4 weeks, there will be another trip to the salon and then a new decision has to be made. If the previous wild color choices are not to be repeated, then a whole new challenge may arise at the next salon appointment. Trying to create a new different color on top of another one can result in strange tinges of color. It could be tricky to keep hair looking nice with all these chemical treatments. What do you do next if you chose the SunBun rainbow colors the last time? It would be practically impossible to repeat the hair colors in the same pattern. So, perhaps the person has to choose a dark color for a while and then start the process all over. For now, the fad is continuing with men and women of all ages. It is a time for the consumer goods companies to enjoy manufacturing and selling lots of new hair color products. It’s presented some new challenges for the chemists and hairstylists!



MWSCC

IFSCC photos

29th IFSCC Congress


S C C o o pMelissa Tolla, Newsletter EditorMidwest SCC Chapter4740 N. Cumberland Ave. #364Chicago, IL 60656

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Vol. XLIX No. 1 January 2017 oop - Society of Cosmetic ... · personal care ingredients, many...

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