Types of Indian Fabric

Acetate A manufactured fiber formed by a compound of cellulose, refined from cotton linters and/or wood pulp, and acetic acid that has been extruded through a spinneret and then hardened.

Angora The hair of the Angora goat. Also known as Angora mohair. Angora may also apply to the fur of the Angora rabbit.

Appliqué A cutout decoration fastened to a larger piece of material.

Beaded This refers to any style of fabric that has beads embroidered into the design. Beading can be done at the time the lace is made or can be re-embroidered after the lace is made.

Bengaline A fabric with a crosswise rib made from textile fibers (as rayon, nylon, cotton, or wool) often in combination.

Boucle A knit or woven fabric made from a rough, curly, knotted boucle yarn. The fabric has a looped, knotted surface and is often used in sportswear and coats.

Brocade A heavy, exquisite, jacquard-type fabric with an all-over raised pattern or floral design.

Cambric A fine thin white linen fabric.

Canvas A strong, durable, closely woven cotton fabric.

Cashmere A luxury fiber obtained from the soft, fleecy undergrowth of the Kashmir goat of Tibet, Mongolia, China, Iran, Iraq, and India. Most commonly used in sweaters, shawls, suits, coats, and dresses.

Chambray A plain woven fabric that can be made from cotton, silk, or manufactured fibers, but is most commonly cotton. It incorporates a colored warp (often blue) and white filling yarns.

Chantilly lace This lace has a net background, and the pattern is created by embroidering with thread and ribbon to create floral designs. The pattern has areas of design that are very dense, and the pattern is often outlined with heavier cords or threads.

Charmeuse Trade name of silk and silk-like fabrics that are characterized by a shiny, soft, satin-like appearance

Chenille Soft, fuzzy yarns stand out around a velvety cord on this fabric, whose name comes from the French word for "caterpillar."

Chiffon A plain, woven, lightweight, extremely sheer, airy, and soft silk fabric, containing highly twisted filament yarns. The fabric, used mainly in evening dresses and scarves, can also be made from rayon and other manufactured fibers.

Chintz A usually glazed printed cotton fabric.

Cotton A unicellular, natural fiber that grows in the seed pod of the cotton plant. Fibers are typically 1/2 inch to 2 inches long. The longest staple fibers, longer than 1-1/2 inch, including the Pima and Egyptian varieties, produce the highest quality cotton fabrics.

Crepe Used to describe all kinds of fabrics--wool, cotton, silk, rayon, synthetics and blends-that have a crinkle, crimped or grained surface.

Crepe back satin A satin fabric in which highly-twisted yarns are used in the filling direction. The floating yarns are made with low twist and may be of either high or low luster. If the crepe effect is the right side of the fabric, the fabric is called satin-back crepe.

Crinkled Forming many short bends or ripples.

Crocheted Loose, open knit made by looping thread with a hooked needle. Used for light, summer sweaters.

Denim True denim is a twill-weave, cotton-like fabric made with different colored yarns in the warp and the weft. Due to the twill construction, one color predominates on the fabric surface.

Dupioni Similar to shantung, this textured fabric is recognized by irregular-sized, thick fibers woven into the base fabric. Fibers that create the texture, are thicker and heavier than those used in shantung.

Elastin A protein that is similar to collagen and is the chief constituent of elastic fibers.

Embroidered An embellishment of a fabric or garment in which colored threads are sewn into the fabric to create a design. Embroidery may be done either by hand or machine.

Fagoting an embroidery produced by pulling out horizontal threads from a fabric and tying the remaining cross threads into groups of an hourglass shape.

Faille A glossy, soft, finely-ribbed, silk-like woven fabric made from cotton, silk, or manufactured fibers.

Faux fur Artificial fur made from synthetic material.

Flannel A warm, soft fabric made in tightly woven twill or plain weave and finished with a light napping.

Fleece A soft, bulky, deep-piled knitted or woven fabric.

Foil A thin piece of material put under another material to add color or brilliance.

Gabardine A tightly woven, twilled, worsted fabric with a slight diagonal line on the right side. Wool gabardine is known as a year-round fabric for business suiting.

Gauze A thin, sheer plain-weave fabric made from cotton, wool, silk, rayon, or other manufactured fibers. End-uses include curtains, apparel, trimmings, and surgical dressings.

Georgette A sheer lightweight fabric, often made of silk or from such manufactured fibers as polyester, with a crepe surface. End-uses include dresses and blouses.

Gingham A medium-weight, plain-weave fabric with a plaid or check pattern.

Heather A yarn that is spun using pre-dyed fibers. These fibers are blended together to give a particular look. (For example, black and white may be blended together to create a gray heathered yarn.) The term, heather, may also be used to describe the fabric made from heathered yarns.

Intarsia A colored design knitted on both sides of a fabric.

Jacquard Woven fabrics manufactured by using the Jacquard attachment on the loom. This attachment provides versatility in designs and permits individual control of each of the warp yarns. Thus, fabrics of almost any type or complexity can be made. Brocade and damask are types of jacquard woven fabrics.

Jersey The consistent interlooping of yarns in the jersey stitch to produce a fabric with a smooth, flat face, and a more textured, but uniform back. Jersey fabrics may be produced on either circular or flat weft knitting machines.

Knit Fabrics made from only one set of yarns, all running in the same direction. Some knits have their yarns running along the length of the fabric, while others have their yarns running across the width of the fabric. Knit fabrics are held together by looping the yarns around each other. Knitting creates ridges in the resulting fabric. Wales are the ridges that run lengthwise in the fabric; courses run crosswise.

knitted Formed by interlacing yarn or thread in a series of connected loops with needles.

Lace An ornamental braid for trimming.

Lame like glotique A woven fabric using flat silver or gold metal threads to create either the design or the background in the fabric.

Lawn A light, fine cloth made using carded or combed, linen or cotton yarns. The fabric has a crease-resistant, crisp finish.

Leather Animal skin dressed for use in clothing.

Leatherette Simulated leather.

Linen A fabric made from linen fibers obtained from inside the woody stem of the flax plant. Linen fibers are much stronger and more lustrous than cotton. Linen fabrics are very cool and absorbent, but wrinkle very easily, unless blended with manufactured fibers.

Lycra A DuPont trademark for its spandex fiber. Any time you see this fiber listed on a label, expect comfort, movement, and shape retention that won't wash away.

Marabou A thrown silk usually dyed in the gum or a fabric made of this silk.

Matte Lacks luster or gloss and has a usually smooth even surface free from shine or highlights.

Mesh A type of fabric characterized by its net-like open appearance, and the spaces between the yarns. Mesh is available in a variety of constructions including wovens, knits, laces, or crocheted fabrics.

Micro fiber Generic term for any synthetic fiber finer than silk. Fabrics made with micro fibers are soft, lightweight, breathable and durable.

Net An open fabric, which is created by connecting the intersections in a woven, knitted, or crocheted construction to form a mesh-like appearance that won't ravel.

Nylon The first completely synthetic fiber developed. Known for its high strength and excellent resilience, nylon has superior abrasion resistance and high flexibility.

Organza A crisp, sheer, lightweight plain-weave fabric, with a medium to high yarn count, made of silk, rayon, nylon, or polyester. The fabric is used primarily in evening and wedding apparel for women.

Ottoman A tightly woven, plain-weave, ribbed fabric with a hard, slightly lustered surface. The ribbed effect is created by weaving a finer silk or manufactured warp yarn with a heavier filler yarn, usually made of cotton, wool, or waste yarn. In the construction, the heavier filler yarn is completely covered by the warp yarn, thus creating the ribbed effect.

Pearlized Given a pearlescent surface or finish.

Peau satin A heavy twill weave drapeable satin fabric, made of silk or a manufactured fiber, and used for bridal gowns and evening wear.

Picot A row of woven loops along the selvage of fabric or lace.

Pointelle Very feminine, delicate-looking, rib-knit fabric made with a pattern of openings.

Polyester A manufactured fiber which has high strength, excellent resiliency, and high abrasion resistance. Low absorbency allows the fiber to dry quickly.

Poplin A fabric made using a rib variation of the plain weave. The construction is characterized by having a slight ridge effect in one direction, usually the filling.

Ramie A bast fiber, similar to flax, taken from the stalk of a plant grown in China.

Rayon A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose, derived from wood pulp, cotton linters, or other vegetable matter.

Re-embroidered To outline a design (as on lace) with embroidery stitching.

Rhinestoned To attach a colorless imitation stone of high luster made of glass, paste, or gem quartz.

Ribbed To form vertical ridges in knitting.

Ribboned Ribbon lace is made by stitching ribbon onto mesh or net fabrics. The design is usually a random pattern rather than floral.

Rib knit A basic stitch used in weft knitting in which the knitting machines require two sets of needles operating at right angles to each other. Rib knits have a very high degree of elasticity in the crosswise direction. This knitted fabric is used for complete garments and for such specialized uses as sleeve bands, neck bands, sweater waistbands, and special types of trims for use with other knit or woven fabrics. Lightweight sweaters in rib knits provide a close, body-hugging fit.

Satin A traditional fabric utilizing a satin weave construction to achieve a lustrous fabric surface. Satin is a traditional fabric for evening and wedding garments. Typical examples of satin weave fabrics include: slipper satin, crepe-back satin, faille satin, bridal satin, moleskin, and royal satin.

Seersucker A woven fabric which incorporates modification of tension control. In the production of seersucker, some of the warp yarns are held under controlled tension at all times during the weaving, while other warp yarns are in a relaxed state and tend to pucker when the filling yarns are placed. The result produces a puckered stripe effect in the fabric.

Sequined Ornamented with a small plate of shining metal or plastic.

Shantung A medium-weight, plain-weave fabric, characterized by a ribbed effect, resulting from slubbed yarns used in the warp or filling direction. End-uses include dresses and suits.

Sheer Any very light-weight fabric (e.g., chiffon, georgette, voile, sheer crepe). Usually has an open weave. Sheers mostly feel cool.

Silk It is obtained from cocoons of certain species of caterpillars. It is soft and has a brilliant sheen. It is one of the finest textiles. It is also very strong and absorbent.

Spandex A manufactured elastomeric fiber that can be repeatedly stretched over 500% without breaking, and will still recover to its original length.

Suede Leather with a napped surface.

Taffeta A lustrous, medium-weight, plain-weave fabric with a slight ribbed appearance in the filling (crosswise) direction. For formal wear, taffeta is a favorite choice. It provides a crisp hand, with lots of body. Silk taffeta gives the ultimate rustle, but other fibers are also good choices.

Tencel A trademark of Courtaulds for a high performance fiber used to make soft, beautifully draping rayon fabrics. Tencel is made from wood pulp that is harvested from replenished tree farms. So it's environmentally sensitive and it's washable!

Terry A woven fabric, usually cotton, with loop pile on one or both sides.

Tri-acetate A manufactured fiber, which, like acetate, is made by modifying cellulose. Tri-acetate is less absorbent and less sensitive to high temperatures than acetate. It can be hand or machine washed and tumble dried, with relatively good wrinkle recovery.

Twill A fabric that shows a distinct diagonal wale on the face (e.g., denim, gabardine, tricotine).

Velour A medium-weight, closely-woven fabric with a thick pile. It can be made using either a plain weave or a satin weave construction. It resembles velvet, but has a lower cut pile.

Velvet A medium-weight, cut-pile constructed fabric in which the cut pile stands up very straight. It is woven using two sets of warp yarns; the extra set creates the pile. Velvet, a luxurious fabric, is commonly made with a filament fiber for high luster and smooth hand.

Venice lace This lace often has a high profile, and is made using a needlepoint technique rather than embroidery. A heavier weight lace, the patterns vary from geometric to floral. Each pattern is attached to the others by bars made of thread.

Viscose The most common type of rayon. It is produced in much greater quantity than cuprammonium rayon, the other commercial type.

Voile A crisp, lightweight, plain weave cotton-like fabric, made with high twist yarns in a high yarn count construction. Similar in appearance to organdy and organza.

Wool Usually associated with fiber or fabric made from the fleece of sheep or lambs. However, the term "wool" can also apply to all animal hair fibers, including the hair of the Cashmere or Angora goat or the specialty hair fibers of the camel, alpaca, llama, or vicuna.

Fabric used in Women Indian Wear India is the storehouse of textiles, starting from Indian silk fabric to Indian cotton. Fabric in India has a rich variety. Silk and cotton weaving predominate the weaving traditions in India.

The three main traditional dresses of Indian women are Saree, Salwar Kameez and Lehenga. Indian traditional dresses are generally made of fabrics like silk, cotton and all types of man-made fabrics which are available in range of colors, designs, thickness and styles.

The fabrics widely used in women Indian wear are as follows:

SilkSilk as a fabric is associated with wealth and success and has a reputation as a luxurious and sensuous fabric. Silk is one of the oldest textile fibers known to man. Indian silk sarees, salwar kameez, lehengas are the ideal wear for any marriage and formal occasions.

CottonCotton is a natural vegetable fiber of great economic importance as a raw material for cloth. It is used to make very fine and lightweight cotton saris and salwar kameezs and other dresses. There are various types of Cotton fabric such as Pure Cotton, Khadi Cotton, Mix Cotton, South Cotton, Ahmedabad Cotton, Crush Cotton, Rajasthani Cotton etc.

ChiffonChiffon is a light diaphanous fabric of silk, nylon, etc. Lightweight, sheer, transparent, made with very fine, tightly twisted yarns. The famous product of its fabric is chiffon sari. The tightly twisted yarns could be either in the filling or the warp or both. It is very strong, despite filmy look.

CrepeCrepe fabric is used in almost all garments like bridal lehengas, saris and salwar kameez. Crepe, a thin fabric of crinkled texture, woven originally in silk but now available in all major fibers.

GeorgetteGeorgette is a thin woven silk fabric often of crepe yarn and construction. It is a sheer silk or rayon crepe of dull texture. A sheer lightweight fabric, often made of silk or from such manufactured fibers as polyester, with a crepe surface. End-uses include sarees, lehengas, salwar kameezs.

BrocadeBrocade was originally an elegant, heavy silk fabric with a floral or figured pattern woven with gold or silver thread, produced in China and Japan. Brocades are typically ornate, jacquard-woven fabrics. The pattern is usually emphasized by contrasting surfaces and colors, and appears on the face of the fabric, which is distinguished easily from the back.

PolyesterA synthetic and man-made fiber. Some characteristics of polyester include: crease resistance, ability to dry quickly, shape retention in garments, high strength, abrasion resistance and minimum care requirements.

SatinA fabric made from yarns with low luster, such as cotton or other staple length fibers. The fabric has a soft, smooth hand and a gentle, subtle luster. Sateen fabrics are often used for making designer lehengas, salwar kameezs as well as for draperies and upholstery.

NetNet fabric is an open fabric, which is created by connecting the intersections in a woven, knitted or crocheted construction to form a mesh-like appearance that won't ravel.

OrganzaA crisp, sheer, lightweight plain weave fabric made of silk, rayon, nylon, or polyester. In silk, the stiffness comes from the natural gum that remains on the fibers after processing. In man-made fibers, the stiffness is engineered.

DenimDenim is more than a cotton fabric; the fabric is very strong and durable. Over the years, many different denim fabric treatments have been introduced. Today, it comes in a multitude of washes and finishes. Denim is most commonly associated with jeans. Besides jeans, young girls also prefer to wear denim skirts.

Fabrics of India

India has a rich, diverse and unique textile tradition. Weaving has been an extremely well developed craft form in India from as early as the Indus Valley civilization. India has had strong traditions in the making, dyeing, printing, and embroidering of cloth as is evident from historical records. The array of textiles varies from place to place by factors like geography, climate, local culture, social customs, availability of raw materials etc. The extraordinary range of Indian textiles reflect the cultural richness and adaptability of the country. 

A variety of raw materials like silk, cotton, wool, jute etc are used in India for creating fabrics. Though silk and cotton weaving predominates the Indian weaving tradition, wool is also used for weaving in many parts of the country especially in Himachal Pradesh, Kashmir and North Eastern States. 

Most textiles are produced by twisting fibers into yarns and then knitting or weaving them into fabrics. The craftsman does most of the work by hand, but today with modern machinery and textile mills, the process has become simpler and faster than before. Indian fabrics are unique for their excellent workmanship, colours and durability.  Interestingly nowhere else will anybody wear the range of colour combinations like the Indians do.

Fabrics in silk, cotton and wool are more in demand inside the country as well as abroad.  Every state in India is known for a particular textile, showcasing the lifestyle and culture of that place.

A textile is a flexible material consisting of a network of natural or artificial fibres often referred to as thread or yarn. Yarn is produced by spinning raw wool fibres, linen, cotton, or other material on a spinning wheel to produce long strands.[1] Textiles are formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, or pressing fibres together (felt).

The words fabric and cloth are used in textile assembly trades (such as tailoring and dressmaking) as synonyms for textile. However, there are subtle differences in these terms in specialized usage. Textile refers to any material made of interlacing fibres. Fabric refers to any material made through weaving, knitting, spreading, crocheting, or bonding. Cloth refers to a finished piece of fabric that can be used for a purpose such as covering a bed.

Sunday textile market on the sidewalks of Karachi, Pakistan

[edit] HistoryMain article: History of clothing and textiles

Late antique textile, Egyptian, now in the Dumbarton Oaks collection

"Mrs. Condé Nast wearing one of the famous Fortuny tea gowns. This one has no tunic but is finely pleated, in the Fortuny manner, and falls in long lines, closely following the figure, to the floor"

The discovery of dyed flax fibres in a cave in the Republic of Georgia dated to 34,000 BCE suggests textile-like materials were made even in prehistoric times.[2][3]

The production of textiles is a craft whose speed and scale of production has been altered almost beyond recognition by industrialization and the introduction of modern manufacturing techniques. However, for the main types of textiles, plain weave, twill or satin weave, there is little difference between the ancient and modern methods.

Incas have been crafting quipus (or khipus) made of fibres either from a protein, such as spun and plied thread like wool or hair from camelids such as alpacas, llamas and camels or from a cellulose like cotton for thousands of years. Khipus are a series of knots along pieces of string. They have been believed to only have acted as a form of accounting, although new evidence conducted by Harvard professor, Gary Urton, indicates there may be more to the khipu than just numbers. Preservation of khipus found in museum and archive collections follow general textile preservation principles and practice.

[edit] Uses

Textiles have an assortment of uses, the most common of which are for clothing and containers such as bags and baskets. In the household, they are used in carpeting, upholstered furnishings,

window shades, towels, covering for tables, beds, and other flat surfaces, and in art. In the workplace, they are used in industrial and scientific processes such as filtering. Miscellaneous uses include flags, backpacks, tents, nets, cleaning devices such as handkerchiefs and rags, transportation devices such as balloons, kites, sails, and parachutes, in addition to strengthening in composite materials such as fibreglass and industrial geotextiles. Children can learn using textiles to make collages, sew, quilt, and toys.

Textiles used for industrial purposes, and chosen for characteristics other than their appearance, are commonly referred to as technical textiles. Technical textiles include textile structures for automotive applications, medical textiles (e.g. implants), geotextiles (reinforcement of embankments), agrotextiles (textiles for crop protection), protective clothing (e.g. against heat and radiation for fire fighter clothing, against molten metals for welders, stab protection, and bullet proof vests). In all these applications stringent performance requirements must be met. Woven of threads coated with zinc oxide nanowires, laboratory fabric has been shown capable of "self-powering nanosystems" using vibrations created by everyday actions like wind or body movements.[4][5]

[edit] Fashion and textile designers

Fashion designers commonly rely on textile designs to set their fashion collections apart from others. Armani, Marisol Deluna, Nicole Miller, Lilly Pulitzer, the late Gianni Versace and Emilio Pucci can be easily recognized by their signature print driven designs.

[edit] Sources and types

Traditional Romanian table cloth, Maramureș

Textiles can be made from many materials. These materials come from four main sources: animal (wool, silk), plant (cotton, flax, jute), mineral (asbestos, glass fiber), and synthetic (nylon, polyester, acrylic). In the past, all textiles were made from natural fibres, including plant, animal, and mineral sources. In the 20th century, these were supplemented by artificial fibres made from petroleum.

Textiles are made in various strengths and degrees of durability, from the finest gossamer to the sturdiest canvas. The relative thickness of fibres in cloth is measured in deniers. Microfibre refers to fibres made of strands thinner than one denier.

[edit] Animal textiles

Animal textiles are commonly made from hair or fur.

Wool refers to the hair of the domestic goat or sheep, which is distinguished from other types of animal hair in that the individual strands are coated with scales and tightly crimped, and the wool as a whole is coated with a wax mixture known as lanolin (aka wool grease), which is waterproof and dirtproof[citation needed]. Woollen refers to a bulkier yarn produced from carded, non-parallel fibre, while worsted refers to a finer yarn which is spun from longer fibres which have been combed to be parallel. Wool is commonly used for warm clothing. Cashmere, the hair of the Indian cashmere goat, and mohair, the hair of the North African angora goat, are types of wool known for their softness.

Other animal textiles which are made from hair or fur are alpaca wool, vicuña wool, llama wool, and camel hair, generally used in the production of coats, jackets, ponchos, blankets, and other warm coverings. Angora refers to the long, thick, soft hair of the angora rabbit.

Wadmal is a coarse cloth made of wool, produced in Scandinavia, mostly 1000~1500CE.

Silk is an animal textile made from the fibres of the cocoon of the Chinese silkworm. This is spun into a smooth, shiny fabric prized for its sleek texture.

[edit] Plant textiles

Grass, rush, hemp, and sisal are all used in making rope. In the first two, the entire plant is used for this purpose, while in the last two, only fibres from the plant are utilized. Coir (coconut fibre) is used in making twine, and also in floormats, doormats, brushes, mattresses, floor tiles, and sacking.

Straw and bamboo are both used to make hats. Straw, a dried form of grass, is also used for stuffing, as is kapok.

Fibres from pulpwood trees, cotton, rice, hemp, and nettle are used in making paper.

Cotton, flax, jute, hemp, modal and even bamboo fibre are all used in clothing. Piña (pineapple fibre) and ramie are also fibres used in clothing, generally with a blend of other fibres such as cotton. Nettles have also been used to make a fibre and fabric very similar to hemp or flax. The use of milkweed stalk fibre has also been reported, but it tends to be somewhat weaker than other fibres like hemp or flax.

Acetate is used to increase the shininess of certain fabrics such as silks, velvets, and taffetas.

Seaweed is used in the production of textiles. A water-soluble fibre known as alginate is produced and is used as a holding fibre; when the cloth is finished, the alginate is dissolved, leaving an open area

Lyocell is a man-made fabric derived from wood pulp. It is often described as a man-made silk equivalent and is a tough fabric which is often blended with other fabrics - cotton for example.

Fibres from the stalks of plants, such as hemp, flax, and nettles, are also known as 'bast' fibres.

[edit] Mineral textiles

Asbestos and basalt fibre are used for vinyl tiles, sheeting, and adhesives, "transite" panels and siding, acoustical ceilings, stage curtains, and fire blankets.

Glass Fibre is used in the production of spacesuits, ironing board and mattress covers, ropes and cables, reinforcement fibre for composite materials, insect netting, flame-retardant and protective fabric, soundproof, fireproof, and insulating fibres.

Metal fibre, metal foil, and metal wire have a variety of uses, including the production of cloth-of-gold and jewelry. Hardware cloth is a coarse weave of steel wire, used in construction.

[edit] Synthetic textiles

A variety of contemporary fabrics. From the left: evenweave cotton, velvet, printed cotton, calico, felt, satin, silk, hessian, polycotton.

All synthetic textiles are used primarily in the production of clothing.

Polyester fibre is used in all types of clothing, either alone or blended with fibres such as cotton.

Aramid fibre (e.g. Twaron) is used for flame-retardant clothing, cut-protection, and armor.

Acrylic is a fibre used to imitate wools, including cashmere, and is often used in replacement of them.

Nylon is a fibre used to imitate silk; it is used in the production of pantyhose. Thicker nylon fibres are used in rope and outdoor clothing.

Spandex (trade name Lycra) is a polyurethane product that can be made tight-fitting without impeding movement. It is used to make activewear, bras, and swimsuits.

Olefin fibre is a fibre used in activewear, linings, and warm clothing. Olefins are hydrophobic, allowing them to dry quickly. A sintered felt of olefin fibres is sold under the trade name Tyvek.

Ingeo is a polylactide fibre blended with other fibres such as cotton and used in clothing. It is more hydrophilic than most other synthetics, allowing it to wick away perspiration.

Lurex is a metallic fibre used in clothing embellishment.

Milk proteins have also been used to create synthetic fabric. Milk or casein fibre cloth was developed during World War I in Germany, and further developed in Italy and America during the 1930s.[6] Milk fibre fabric is not very durable and wrinkles easily, but has a pH similar to human skin and possesses anti-bacterial properties. It is marketed as a biodegradable, renewable synthetic fibre.[7]

[edit] Production methodsMain article: textile manufacturing

Brilliantly dyed traditional woven textiles of Guatemala, and woman weaving on a backstrap loom.

Weaving is a textile production method which involves interlacing a set of longer threads (called the warp) with a set of crossing threads (called the weft). This is done on a frame or machine known as a loom, of which there are a number of types. Some weaving is still done by hand, but the vast majority is mechanised.

Knitting and crocheting involve interlacing loops of yarn, which are formed either on a knitting needle or on a crochet hook, together in a line. The two processes are different in that knitting has several active loops at one time, on the knitting needle waiting to interlock with another loop, while crocheting never has more than one active loop on the needle.

Spread Tow is a production method where the yarn are spread into thin tapes, and then the tapes are woven as warp and weft. This method is mostly used for composite materials, Spread Tow Fabrics can be made in carbon, aramide, etc.

Braiding or plaiting involves twisting threads together into cloth. Knotting involves tying threads together and is used in making macrame.

Lace is made by interlocking threads together independently, using a backing and any of the methods described above, to create a fine fabric with open holes in the work. Lace can be made by either hand or machine.

Carpets, rugs, velvet, velour, and velveteen, are made by interlacing a secondary yarn through woven cloth, creating a tufted layer known as a nap or pile.

Felting involves pressing a mat of fibres together, and working them together until they become tangled. A liquid, such as soapy water, is usually added to lubricate the fibres, and to open up the microscopic scales on strands of wool.

Nonwoven textiles are manufactured by the bonding of fibres to make fabric. Bonding may be thermal, mechnical or adhessives can be used.

[edit] Treatments

Woven tartan of Clan Campbell, Scotland.

Embroidered skirts by the Alfaro-Nùñez family of Cochas, Peru, using traditional Peruvian embroidery methods.[8]

Textiles are often dyed, with fabrics available in almost every colour. The dying process often requires several dozen gallons of water for each pound of clothing.[9] Coloured designs in textiles can be created by weaving together fibres of different colours (tartan or Uzbek Ikat), adding coloured stitches to finished fabric (embroidery), creating patterns by resist dyeing methods, tying off areas of cloth and dyeing the rest (tie-dyeing), or drawing wax designs on cloth and dyeing in between them (batik), or using various printing processes on finished fabric. Woodblock printing, still used in India and elsewhere today, is the oldest of these dating back to at least 220CE in China. Textiles are also sometimes bleached, making the textile pale or white.

Textiles are sometimes finished by chemical processes to change their characteristics. In the 19th century and early 20th century starching was commonly used to make clothing more resistant to stains and wrinkles. Since the 1990s, with advances in technologies such as permanent press process, finishing agents have been used to strengthen fabrics and make them wrinkle free.[1] More recently, nanomaterials research has led to additional advancements, with companies such as Nano-Tex and NanoHorizons developing permanent treatments based on metallic nanoparticles for making textiles more resistant to things such as water, stains, wrinkles, and pathogens such as bacteria and fungi.[10]

More so today than ever before, textiles receive a range of treatments before they reach the end-user. From formaldehyde finishes (to improve crease-resistance) to biocidic finishes and from flame retardants to dyeing of many types of fabric, the possibilities are almost endless. However, many of these finishes may also have detrimental effects on the end user. A number of disperse, acid and reactive dyes (for example) have been shown to be allergenic to sensitive individuals.[11]

Further to this, specific dyes within this group have also been shown to induce purpuric contact dermatitis.[12] Although formaldehyde levels in clothing are unlikely to be at levels high enough to cause an allergic reaction,[13] due to the presence of such a chemical, quality control and testing are of utmost importance. Flame retardants (mainly in the brominated form) are also of

concern where the environment, and their potential toxicity, are concerned.[14] Testing for these additives is possible at a number of commercial laboratories, it is also possible to have textiles tested for according to the Oeko-tex Certification Standard which contains limits levels for the use of certain chemicals in textiles products.

Fabrics and Material Used in Boys' Clothing: Raw Material

Materials are the raw material fibers used to make clothing. While there are numerous fabrics made from these materials, three are relatively few fibers from which cloth fabrics are made, including both natural and synthetic fibers. The most important raw materials used in the production of clothing, including boys' clothing, are cotton, flax, and wool. There are also several other materials that have been used. The use of these materials even as late as the Renaissance varied geographically. Today with moderninternational trade, there used is common around the world. In addition to plant and animal fibers in the years leading up to World War II, a number of synthetic fibers were developed and are today widely used--most commonly in blended materials.

Cotton

Cotton is the most widely used natural fiber in the manufacture of clothing. It has a number of qualities making it ideal for making

textiles and clothing. It is a natural vegetable fiber--the most important texttile raw material. As it is a plant it can be cultured in much larger quantity and at much less cost than producing animal fibers as in raising sheep for wool. The extensive use of cotton around the world as a textile fabric owes primarily to the fact that individual cotton fibers have a natural spiral twist, giving it a strength and reiliancy unmatched by other palnt fibers. This allows te spinning of extremely fine yarns. Cotton is a soft, white, downy substance consisting of hairs or fibers attached tonthe seeds of plants belonging to the genus Gossypium of the mallow family. Cotton is used in making fabrics, thread, wadding, etc. A large number of fabrics are made from wool, including corderoy, denim, drill, madras, searsucker, and many others. Cotton fabric has been used since ancient times and the development of cotton agriculture was an important step in the advance of civilization among ancient civilizations. Cotton also played a major role in the Industrial Revolution that has so changed modern life. American slavery was decling in importance. Many though that in the South it would eventually disappear as it was in the North. The Industrial Revolution, however, led to Ely Whitney's cotton gin. The resulting efficiences changed the economies of cotton cultivation. New plantations were founded on King Cotton as Southern planters moved west into Alabama and Mississpi and eventually Texas. The revitalization of the South's slave-based economy began a process that was to laed inexorably to

Figure 1.--This little American boy wears a fancy one-piece velvet suit with lace trim. These suits were particularly popular during Christmas season. True velvet was a silk fabric, but often made as a blended fabric with cotton.

Civil War. Cotton today continues to be the most important natural textile, still widely used in the production of clothing.

Fur

Fur since the stone age has been a valued material for clothing. In more recent time the search for furs has played an important role in the Russian expansion into Siberia and the European expansion in North America, especially Canada. Furs also played an informant role in the early American expansion into the West.

Flax (Linnen)

One of the earlist plants used in the manufacture of clothing is flax. The flax plant has very small leaves, blue flowers and stems about 0.5 meters tall. The flax plant was extensuvely used for the production of linen in aincient Greece and is still used today. The Egyptians pulled out of the ground, not cut. The backbreaking labor was done mostly by men. Half-ripe flax stems made the best thread. If the stems were too ripe, they were used for mats and rope. Flax stems were soaked for several days. The fibers were separated and then beaten until soft. The spinner would attach flax fibers to the spindle which would then twisted into strong thread. The actual weaving of linnen fabric was done on a loom. A loom is a frame made of two beams held by four pegs in the ground. White linen needed constant washing. It was washed in the river or canal, rinsed, then pounded on a stone, and, bleached in the sun.

Jute

Jute is a strong, coarse plant fiber. It is made from two East Indian plants of the linden family. It can be used for clothing, but is most associated with bags/sacks (burlap and gunny) and cordage. The word entered the English language in the 1740s suggesting that this is when the material reached England. The use of the plant was used muchg earlier in the East Indies. Jute has been called the 'Golden Fiber'. It is a versatile fiber that is also widely used in handicrafts. Next to cotton, jute is the cheapest and most important of all plant fibers used in the manufacture of textiles. Jute is the cheapest lignocellulosic, long vegetable bast fibre available in the world. Jute cultivation provides work for millions of farmers, landless laborers, industrial workers and provides jobs for many others, indirectly. It has been a fabric of minor importance in Europe and America in the manufacture of children's clothing. We do not yet have information on the extent to which jute was used for clothing in East Asia. In recent years, however, jute usage has been expanded to include an increasing variety od clothing. Spinning of high quality yarns and weaving of light-weight fine-textured fabrics of uniform structure in exotic colors and designs are made in both jute factories and hand loom sectors. With vastly improved bleaching, dyeing and finishing processes and by blending jute with other natural or synthetic fibers, the finished jute products now ensure feel, luster, abrasion resistance and aesthetic appeal.

Lether and Animal Skins

Paper

Cotton was the linch-pin in the 18th century industrial revolution. By the 20th century, the industrial society that cotton helped create was investigating the use of other raw materials to create fabric that canbe used in clothing, both natural materials and synthetic fibers. One interesting effort was the attempt by German to create paper cloth. The Royal Navy blockade cut German mills off from cotton which by 1916 had brought many mills to a sandstill. Scientists experimented with a wide range of natural materials and found that paper was one of the most promising. Mills actually begun commercial production of paper cloth (Papiergewebe). We do not know much about the actual qualities of this fabric, but have noted a range of products made with it. One example is a child's Leibchen. The cloth was not competitive with cotton and production was discontinued after the War.

Polyester Synthetic Fibers

Polyester is a polymer in which the monomer units are liked by the group COO. Polyesters are used in the manufacture of resins, plastics, and textile fabrics. Polyester fabrics appeared before World War II (1939-45), but were not produced in large quanities for civilian clothing until after the War. Many different fabrics appeared, including Nylon, Rayon, Terrelyn, and others. Each has its own characteristics, one of the most important being ease of care. Initially many garments were made in pure polyester fabrics. The garment industry has since developed polyester blends including cotton or wool to obtain the advantages of both natural fabrics and the new synthetic polyester fabrics. British boys are especially familiar with Terreyln worsted which largely replaced flannel short pants in the 1960s. The Terylene mix in the material used in the make-up in British made shorts pants is about 65 percent polyester/35 percent viscose mix, with only a very small variation on this. The heavier, warmer more expensive shorts are normally 55 percent polyester and /45 percet wool. The typical differing in trade and manufacturing names means that clothing produced in South Africa for retail in that country are labelled as Trevira and Viscose (in a 65/35 percent mix).

Rubber

Rubber is a highly elaticsubstance polymerized by the dryinging and coagulation of the milky juices or latex of various plants, especially the tropical rubber plant. Rubber is now thought of primatily in connecton with automobile tires. The first uses of rubber were in fact associated with the clothing industry. Rubber was known to native Americans in Central America and brought back to Europe in the 16th-17th centuries where its unique properties, especially its elaasticity were noted. It was not until the early-19th century, however, that practical uses were found for it, launing a financial bubble. The reaction of rubber to hot weather, however, made it difficult to use until Charles Goodyear invented the vulcanization process. Besides its uses in clothing, rubber became a major industrial product. Japanese seizure of Mayaysia and the East Indies during World War II closed major suppliers to the Allies leading to the development of stnthetic rubber in America.

Silk

Silk is the soft lustrous fiber obtained as a filament from the cocoon of the silk worm. Silk was first produced in China. As it is an expensive material, silk fabrics were only used in high quality garments for wealthy families. Silk was commonly used for accesories such as the bows for sailor and Fauntleroy suits or sashes. Sime boys summer suits, including sailor suits, were made from Shantung silk. This was a plain weave silk fabric made from less expensive yarns with irregular or uneven texture. Fabrics made of silk include satin and velvet.

Straw

Straw is dried grass. There are many different grasses with a wide range of characteristics. There are different uses for straw in the manufacture of clothing. The best known noder usage is in the making of hats. For HBC's study og\f boys' fashion, straw hats are especially important. Several boys' hats were made from straw, including the rounded crown hat, the sailor hat, and the boater. These are all 19th century styles, although the boater has survived into the 20th century to a limited degree. A substantial portion of the demand for straw hats was supplied from Eduador and incorrectly called Panama hats. The straw hat industry in Panama predated the Inca and Spanish bu milenia. Straw can also be used for insulation (stuffing) by low-income people as it has many disadvantages. Another usage dating from pre-history was in the manufacture of sandals. This also survived to the 19th century. The style of grass used depended on the use intended. Buntal is one of the best known grass used in the manufscture of straw hats. This is a different plant than the hemp used in the ropes and mats manufacturing process. Buntal is a high quality material with a natural golden color and durable for a grass. The grass used by Ecuadorian Indians is Carludovicia palamata.

Wool

Next to coton, sheep's wool is the most extensively used of all natural fibers. Wool is the fine, soft curly hair that forms the fleece of sheep and certain other sheep-like animals (alpacas, casmere goats, vicuñna, various goats, and others). Wool, like hair, is chiefly composed of keratin; the cuticle of the of the wool fiber or wool "staple" is covered with rough , scakly plates, and the shaft of the stple is somewhat twisted, causing the fibers to interlock during spinning and weaving, in part explaining its great value in clothing. Wool was especially appreciate in the manufacture of warm clothing in the days before central heating. Fashion and health experts promoted the use of wool in children's clothes. A vast number of fabrics are made from wool, including cassimire, cheviot, serge, flannel, and plaid, serge, tweed, velour, and many others.