Three perfect days: Lima

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88 MAY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

91DAY ONE

Painted chickens at Dédalo, “fi sherman’s ham” at Sonia,

Museo Larco’s saucy ceramics

92DAY TWO

A perfect ham sandwich at Bar Cordano, a creepy ruin run,

potent cocktails at Ayahuasca

95DAY THREE

Lurking at El Parque del Amor, the philosophy of ceviche, scruff -

rock at El Sargento Pimienta

BY CHRIS WILSON • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JESSICA SAMPLE

THREE PERFECT DAYS: LIMA Spurred in part by its world-class restaurant scene, the Peruvian capital has

undergone a transformation from stopover to tourism hotspot

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • MAY 2014 89

HOT TO TROT Casa Hacienda

Los Ficus, a ranch renowned for its

“dancing” horses

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LIMA || THREE PERFECT DAYS

ONCE A MERE STOPOVER on the way to the majestic Incan ruins of Machu Picchu, Lima has established itself as a fascinating destination in its own right. In part, the revival of this chaotic city of 8.6 million people can be summed up in a single word: food. The Peruvian capital is fast becoming the culinary crown jewel of South America, with world-class restaurants now as commonplace as shops selling alpaca scarves.

Peru’s rich biodiversity and plentiful supply of fi sh, fruits, vegetables and herbs—plus a deep talent pool of local chefs—have made Lima’s ascension to the top of the foodie chain inevitable, and have helped spark a signifi cant surge in tourism. Whether it’s the trendy bars of Mirafl ores, the chic galleries and shops of Barranco or the thrum of San Isidro’s fi nancial district, Lima has never been livelier.

It wasn’t always this way. Peru’s Shining Path guerrilla movement in the 1980s and ’90s earned Lima an unsavory reputation. But, more recently, the city has been rebranded as a peaceful, accommodating modern metropolis on the rise—deservedly so. Besides its outstanding eats, Lima boasts astounding archaeological sites, top-notch cultural institutions and a vibrant nightlife scene.

That said, it’s still just a short plane ride from here to Cuzco, the mountainous region that’s home to Machu Picchu—perhaps the most stunning place on Earth and, as such, a required visit if you’re nearby.

PERFORMANCE, ARTA street act works the crowd in Plaza

Mayor; right: Victor Delfín puts the fi nishing touches on a canvas in his

studio at Second Home

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POPULATION OF METROPOLITAN LIMA, THE SIXTH-BIGGEST CITY IN

SOUTH AMERICA

8.6 MILLIONTONS OF ASPARAGUS SHIPPED OUT OF PERU IN 2012, MAKING IT THE WORLD’S

LARGEST EXPORTER OF THE CROP

129,000VARIETIES OF POTATO GROWN IN

PERU, MORE THAN ANYWHERE ELSE ON THE PLANET

2,800YEAR MORRIS’ BAR, WHERE CALIFORNIA-BORN OWNER VICTOR MORRIS INVENTED

THE PISCO SOUR, OPENED IN LIMA

1916HEIGHT, IN FEET, OF THE TALLEST HOTEL IN

PERU, THE WESTIN IN SAN ISIDRO

389NUMBER OF GOVERNMENT DISTRICTS IN

LIMA, EACH OF WHICH HAS ITS OWN MAYOR

43

LIMA BY THE NUMBERS

DAY ONE | You check in early at Hotel B, a restored 1914 mansion that opened last year in the boho-chic Barranco district. You’re handed an oversize iron key and head upstairs to your funky suite, which happens to have a sculpture of an electric chair outside the door. You stow your bags and have an invigorating sweat in the pri-vate steam room, a� er which you’re ready to face the day.

Having deposited your doorstop/key at the desk, you cross the street to Dédalo, a cra� shop stocked with painted wooden chickens, stone pigs and cartoon-colorful Andean textiles. You have a quick browse and head toward the beaches along Barran-co’s Pacifi c coast, where wetsuited surfers paddle out to catch long, steady waves while paragliders dri� below pillowy clouds.

A stroll along the waterfront brings you to Second Home, local artist Victor Delfí n’s workplace and gallery. For 20 sol, or about $7, you’re buzzed into a sculpture garden overrun by metal horses, lions and con-dors. African orange tulips li� er the grass like defl ated party balloons. A huge stone puma head spews water into a pool. Delfí n murmurs hello as he touches up a canvas in a studio overlooking the ocean.

You continue your dreamy march across the Bridge of Sighs—a wooden walkway where, legend has it, you’re supposed to hold your breath and make a wish before crossing—and stop by Mate, a museum owned by famed Peruvian fashion photog-rapher Mario Testino. A gallery assistant hands you an iPod that guides you through a riotous Pop-Art retrospective featuring Keith Haring, Julian Schnabel, Richard Prince and Nate Lowman. Sipping espresso in the museum cafe’s tranquil sliver of a courtyard, you mull your fi rst important decision of the day: where to eat lunch?

You go with Sonia, a destination for rustic seafood in the nearby suburb of Chorril-los. Sitting under a bamboo canopy, you order wooden spoons heaped with mind-blowingly fresh ceviche, hunks of cured tuna known as “fi sherman’s ham,” fat red crab claws crusted with Parmesan, phe-nomenal fl ounder in yellow chili sauce, and a dish of salted corn, all washed down with icy Pilsen Callao. As “My Way” plays so� ly in Spanish, owner Fredy Guardia sews a fi sh-ing net at a table under one of his many poems , which adorn the walls.

A� er this near-perfect meal, you drive to Pueblo Libre to visit Museo Larco, Lima’s

most intriguing and important museum. You walk up a path bursting with bougain-villea in red, lavender, orange, yellow and pale blue, while green parrots squawk from the trees and a friendly cat negotiates your ankles. The walkway leads to a sprawling succession of spaces containing 45,000 pieces of pre-Columbian art. It’s one of only a few museums in the world with storage areas that are open to the public.

Among the artifacts on display here are ceremonial blood bowls and cracked human skulls from Incan trephination operations. If that seems a bit macabre, there is ample comic relief in the popular erotic po� ery room. Here you fi nd ancient Peruvian burial pots celebrating the art of contortionism. Many pots like these were destroyed by mortified conquistadors, which makes the exhibit as essential as it is entertaining. A� er a trip back to Hotel B to freshen up—and perhaps cleanse your psyche—it’s time for dinner.

Tonight you’re eating at Maido, Chef Mitsuharu Tsumura’s temple of Nikkei cuisine, in Mirafl ores. The dishes come in waves: a classic usuzukuri with rock fi sh, ponzu, crispy garlic and tomatoes; a ceviche of mackerel, scallops, clams, smoked yellow

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pepper “tiger’s milk” and avocado; foie gras “sushi” in eel sauce; breaded shrimp, avocado, cream cheese and chimichurri, fi nished tableside with a blowtorch; fried pejesapo sliders with tartar sauce on steamed buns; black cod marinated in miso and aji panca chili; and an impossibly ten-der Nitsuke braised short rib with fried rice. It’s high-end Peruvian-Japanese comfort food at its fi nest, downed with plenty of sake and Sapporo beer and fi nished with an intense trio of chocolates.

You work off a small fraction of the calo-ries consumed during a 10-minute waddle to La Emolienteria, a lively pisco bar in Mira-fl ores. A DJ spins electronic dance music as youngsters nod rhythmically from Day-Glo stools fashioned from wheelbarrows. A� er a few puckeringly good Pisco Sours made with Pisco Portón, you cab it back to the hotel. A copy of Theodore Roethke’s poem “The Waking” has been laid on your pillow: “I wake to sleep, and take my waking slow.” You take that as a cue to knock off .

DAY TWO | You wake up feeling a little delicate, your condition accentuated by the knowledge that you’re about to drive downtown. Navigating Peru’s congested capital is a blend of white-knuckle drama and stop-start purgatory. A� er an event-ful hour or so zipping through a snarl of cars, mopeds, taxis and buses, you arrive at Plaza Mayor, where breakfast awaits at the wonderfully old-timey Bar Cordano, right across the street from the heavily guarded Presidential Palace.

Inside the bar, a counterman makes exquisite butifarra sandwiches, slicing cold ham prepared two ways—glazed with sugary syrup or sprinkled with extra salt—then piled on a roll under salsa criolla (onions and lemon juice). It’s as good a ham sandwich as you’re likely to have, in Lima or anywhere else. You chase it with a strong coff ee from the rickety Gaggia machine and then sample one of Bar Cordano’s beauti-ful causas, classic Peruvian potato dishes displayed under glass like prize tarts in a Parisian bakery.

Revived, you wade through the crowds to tour the Church of San Francisco, a Span-ish Baroque complex built in the mid-1500s, fl a� ened by an earthquake a century later and reconsecrated in 1673. Inside, gazing upon Marcos Zapata’s “Last Supper”—in which Jesus and his disciples dine on cuy, or roasted guinea pig—you are struck by the sobering thought that 75,000 bodies

If you have an extra day or two to spend in Peru, hop an 80-minute fl ight to Cuzco, the massive and mountainous region that contains the Incan ruins of Machu Picchu. Check into the Palacio del Inka, a storied luxury hotel with a bar that features an original Incan wall and Spanish Colonial–style suites with terraces overlooking the narrow cobblestone streets of downtown Cuzco.

It’s a fi ve-minute walk to Plaza de Armas, where you can watch women in traditional Andean garb bottle-feeding adorable baby llamas (they expect a few sol coins if you snap a picture). Drink coca-leaf tea and eat at Limo, one of the best restaurants at the Plaza. If you’re feeling fragile due to the dizzying altitude change, skip heavy fare like guinea pig confi t and alpaca steak in favor of fresh sushi rolls and a green salad. Spend the rest of the day gaping at the gold- and-mirror-gilded Cuzco Cathedral and the Temple of Qorikancha’s stone ruins.

The next morning, take a PeruRail train to Machu Picchu. It’s about a four-hour trip, but the slow-moving, glass-topped cars are a great way to view the stunning mountains, rivers and cliff s rolling past. Then it’s a short bus ride to the jaw-dropping ruins, worth seeing even when clogged with tourists (though some say the only way to experience Machu Picchu is to go the night before and climb to the site just after dawn, when it’s virtually empty).

Now it’s time to tend to your stomach. If you can’t wait to venture into the nearby town of Aguas Calientes, the Belmond Sanctuary Lodge at the foot of the ruins off ers a very good spread of roast pork, steak, grouper and accompaniments. After a leisurely train ride back, during which PeruRail attendants will try mightily to sell you alpaca scarves and sweaters, luxuriate at the Palacio del Inka Spa before dinner.

A more refi ned version of the roasted guinea pig served by many humble Cuzco stalls can be found at Map Café, a cozy glass cube inside the courtyard of the Museo de Arte Precolombino, which also off ers elegant updates of Peruvian staples like corvina and pork adobo. Afterward, catch a fl ight back to Lima to transfer to the next leg of your trip, or better yet, stay another night in Cuzco.

MACHU, MANNo visit to Peru is complete without a trip to its most glorious ruins

NOT TO BE MIST It’s not exactly required that visitors see Machu Picchu, but it’s strongly recommended


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THREE PERFECT DAYS || LIMA

SWEET AND SOURClockwise from top left: Peru's national drink, the Pisco Sour, made with Pisco Portón; three caballeros at Casa Hacienda Los Ficus; a fruit stand at Mercado Surquillo No. 1; a Victor Delfín statue at El Parque del Amor



LIMA || THREE PERFECT DAYSLIMA TIME

Clockwise from top left: The freshest

fi sh and crab stew at Sonia; a bellhop

at the Country Club Lima Hotel; the

Pachacamac ruins

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THREE PERFECT DAYS || LIMA

are interred in the church’s cavernous stone catacombs. You hear a clicking noise, which could be someone taking pictures or a skeleton shi� ing in one of the crypts.

Next, you roll down the Old Pan-American Highway, past dusty roadside chicharrón stalls and flower shops in the Lurín Valley. Your destination is Casa Hacienda Los Ficus, a ranch owned by Fer-nando and Elsa Puga, who breed Peruvian Pasos—the “dancing” horses renowned for their ability to trot sideways. Luckily, you’re in time for a show, which culminates in a steed prancing alongside a woman in traditional garb to the strains of piped-in marinera music. Later, you lounge on the hacienda’s vast lawn, Pisco Sour in hand, and tuck into a rustic lunch of mashed white beans, potatoes and roast chicken.

On the way back to Lima, you stop at the Pachacamac Ruins, about half an hour south of the city. You spend an unse� ling hour looping around 18 pre-Incan pyramids that sit on a patch of earth so parched and unfor-giving it could be on another planet. As if the landscape weren’t forbidding enough, you learn that archaeologists recently uncovered a massive pre-Incan tomb here, which included 70 skeletons wearing false wooden heads, along with evidence of ritual human sacrifi ce. You snap a few pictures and beat a shuddering retreat.

After washing away the residue of sand and dread back at the hotel (and,

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE THE INSIDE SCOOP FROM THOSE IN THE KNOW ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER JAMES FIELD

Virgilio Martínez, CHEF AT CENTRAL RESTAURANTE

“If you like coff ee, you have to try Bisetti in Barranco, which has fresh, single-origin coff ee from all over the Peruvian Amazon. Amazing. Malecón de los Suspiros is good for traditional desserts like picarones and

suspiro a la limeña.”

Diana Bauer, GM OF BE PERU BOUTIQUE TOUR OPERATOR

“I recommend the Parque de la Reserva, an amazing place where you can spend a

couple of hours at night delighting in the colorful magic water show. The way the water waves with the melody of the

music is so beautiful.”

Mitsuharu Tsumura, CHEF AT MAIDO

“Go for a walk in El Malecón de Mirafl ores, with the sea and beautiful

landscape. Look for the paragliding area and go fl ying over the city. Then have a

nice creole breakfast at Tanta, El Chinito, La Lucha or El Farolito.”

unexpectedly, passing chimp expert Jane Goodall in the lobby), you head out for dinner: a nine-course extravaganza at Central Restaurante, a short drive away in Miraflores. You pull up to an unmarked cedar door flanked by two men in dark suits. You’re ushered into the sleek, 80-seat restaurant and seated near the windowed kitchen run by revered chef Virgilio Mar-tínez. The conceit behind the high-concept menu is a culinary voyage across four Peru-vian terrains: sea, coast, Andes and Amazon.

The dishes appear rapidly, baffling in their complexity. Highlights include a sub-lime octopus, purple corn, olive and limón chili plate; a frozen potato puree dotted with cushuro, a fi sh roe–like bacteria from the Andes; raw river shrimp with Amazo-nian sacha inchi seeds; arapaima fi sh with hearts of palm; an 18-hour stewed lamb; and frozen huampo wood extract with Amazonian bahuaja nuts and a shot of maca tree sap. Each course is paired with a well-curated wine. What a trip.

It’s late, but you decide to keep the party going with elixirs of questionable provenance at Ayahuasca in Barranco, a rambling, psychedelic-themed villa that is named a� er a powerful Amazonian hallu-cinogenic. You have one of their deceptively punchy fruit-infused pisco specials, then another, then maybe one more, then call it a night before those crazy wooden-headed skeletons start dancing again, man.

DAY THREE | You have another long day of eating and imbibing ahead, so you refrain from overindulging in the butifar-ras, empanadas, pies, éclairs and tarts at La Espiga de Oro bakery down the block from Hotel B. Feeling unusually healthful, you swing by Las Delicias, a gem of a juice bar in Mirafl ores, and sample a fresh-squeezed guanábana and lucúma combo, one of doz-ens of fruity mixtures available.

Bursting with vigor (and, yes, empa-nadas) you visit the oceanside El Parque del Amor, where couples come to sit on cuddle-friendly benches and take in the view. Lacking a co-canoodler of your own, you read the whimsical love poems displayed beside the seats with furious concentration before focusing intently on a large sculpture of a smooching couple made by Victor Delfín (he whose garden you previously enjoyed).

Having lingered in the Park of Love for as long as is reasonable, you drive to Mercado Surquillo No. 1, a traditional Peruvian market clu� ered with swinging sides of beef, whole pigs, exotic fruits and teetering plastic bags fi lled with coca leaves and dried hot pep-pers. As you zigzag among the stalls, your appetite starts to assert itself again.

Fi� ingly, your next stop is Chez Wong, a local institution set in the home of Chinese-Peruvian chef Javier Wong. Pulling up to the reservation-only, eight-table eatery tucked away in gri� y La Victoria, you buzz



BOARDING PASS Whether you’re looking for archaeological wonders or all the modern marvels of a resurgent city, Lima off ers something for everyone. United can take you there with nonstop service from its U.S. hubs at Houston and New York/Newark. Before your trip, reduce the

climate-change footprint of your travel using United’s carbon off sets program, which supports Conservation International’s forest protection eff orts in Peru and benefi ts local communities in the country’s Alto Mayo region. Learn more at united.com/off sets.

an unmarked door and are led inside. There is no menu. Wong, in trademark flat cap and shades, serves everyone the same two-course meal: a Pacifi c fl ounder and octopus ceviche and a fi sh saltado, or stir-fry.

“Ceviche is the perfection of something simple,” Wong says. You consider this bit of wisdom while inhaling a mound of his fresh and flavorful signature dish. The stir-fry consists of more flounder thrown into a sizzling wok with red bell pepper, bok choy and mushrooms in a pisco-spiked brown sauce. The dish may look like gloppy Chinese takeout, but it’s astoundingly good. Wong, meanwhile, puff s a cigare� e in his tiny kitchen as fl ames shoot from the pan, but no one seems to mind. It is, a� er all, his house.

Next, head to Bar Inglés, at the grand Country Club Hotel in San Isidro, where bartender Roberto Meléndez is renowned for mixing outrageously good Pisco Sours—he has been serving Peru’s beloved national cocktail here since 1998. A frothy blend of pisco, lime juice, simple syrup and egg whites, the recipe for theMeléndez version was passed down to him by his bartender father, who served it to John Wayne at Lima’s fabled Hotel Maury in

the 1950s. “It’s my responsibility,” Meléndez says, “to maintain the drink’s reputation.”

A Pisco Sour or three later (who’s count-ing?), you clear your head at Parque El Olívarin San Isidro, a rambling grove of more than 1,500 gnarled olive trees, many of which are over a century old. It’s a calm, enchanting spot, and you spend a happy hour wan-dering around enjoying the sensation of having not a single thought in your head.

From here, you prepare to indulge in one of Lima’s more decadent dining experiences: the 24-course tasting din-ner at Astrid & Gastón, in Mirafl ores. This

four-hour feast is the keynote experience at Michelin-starred chef Gastón Acurio’s

fl agship restaurant. The crystal chandeliers and moleskin-bound menu/historical nar-rative quickly set the tone. You’re even given a CD of schmaltzy music that you can play later to evoke memories of your meal.

Moments a� er you are seated, a minia-ture steamer trunk is opened before you, revealing an array of edible morsels that include salted fi sh with mascarpone and a ham-and-fruit puff . Next comes alpaca tortellini, a guinea pig terrine, scallops in coral broth and Parmesan, yellow potato gnocchi, quail with corn … it goes on like

this, over and over, each dish paired with a very good wine, making for one of the more pleasurable evenings you’ve spent.

Despite the risk of descending into a food-induced coma, you pluck up the energy for a final stop at El Sargento Pimienta, a barnlike club in Barranco where you can catch live shows by scruff y rock bands and jostle with mobs of Cusqueña-beer-swilling Limeños. The guys onstage, you are told, are a local outfi t named Libido. They are loud.

Later, at the hotel, you fi nd that an art-show party next door has spilled into the bar. Oh, go on, you think, why not? The bar-tender pours you a house special, a bracing G&T served in a small fi shbowl, as a Spanish version of Nancy Sinatra’s “Bang Bang” lulls you into a pleasing stupor.

That was fun, but you’re happy to be up in your room, burying your head in a fat pillow. You think of Morrissey, the alt-pop idol who came to Lima last year and, in typical style, described the city as “my heart’s lighthouse.” Hmm, you think, and then you are gone.

Writer CHRIS WILSON hasn’t had a Pisco Sour since he left Peru, but he’s still seeing those dancing wooden-headed skeletons.

LIKE THREE PERFECT DAYS? Get them on the go, with our free Three Perfect Days iPhone app

COT AND A HOT From left: Hotel B; Chez Wong chef Javier Wong


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DAY ONEDAY TWODAY THREE

1 Mile0

Plaza MayorBar Cordano

Church of San FranciscoPresidential Palace

Ayahuasca Restobar

Lurín Valley, Casa Hacienda Los FicusPachacamac Ruins

Central Restaurante

La Espiga de Oro Bakery

Las Delicias

El Parque del Amor Chez Wong

Parque El Olívar

Bar Inglés

Astrid & Gastón

El Sargento Pimienta

Mercado Surquillo No. 1

Hotel BDédalo

Second Home

Mate Museo Mario Testino

Museo Larco

Bridge of Sighs

Maido

Sonia

La Emolienteria

P a c i fi c O c e a n

Avenida Paseo de la República

Avenida Petit Thouars Avenida Javier Prado Este

Avenida Primavera

Lima

P E R U

Avenida Tomas M

arsano

Avenida Alfredo Benavides

Avenida Circunvalación

Panamericana Sur

Ave

nida

Pas

eo d

e la

Rep

úblic

a Avenida Paseo de la República

Avenida Oscar R. Benavides

Avenida Venezuela

Mariano Cornejo

Avenida Arica

Avenid

a Bra

sil

Aven

ida

Ant

inio

Suc

re

Avenida Grau

Avenida 28 de Julio

Panamericana Norte

Aven

ida

Uni

vers

itaria

Aven

ida

Sal

averry

Avenid

a Sa

nta C

ruz

Avenida Perez Aranibar

Escuela Militar

Circ

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play

as


DAY ONEHotel B 301 Avenida San Martín, Saenz Peña, Barranco;Tel. 011-51-206-0800Dédalo295 Paseo Sáenz Peña, Barranco;Tel. 011-51-652-5400 Second Home366 Domeyer, Barranco; Tel. 011-51-247-5522Bridge of SighsBarrancoMate Museo Mario Testino409 Avenida Pedro de Osma, Barranco;Tel. 011-51-251-7755Sonia 173 Jirón Agustín Lozano Santa Rosa, Chorrillos;Tel. 011-51-249-6850

Museo Larco 1515 Avenida Bolivar, Pueblo Libre;Tel. 011-51-461-1312Maido 399 Calle San Martín, Mirafl ores;Tel. 011-51-446-2512La Emolienteria598 Avenida Diagonal, Bajada Balta 018, Mirafl ores;Tel. 011-51-446-3431

DAY TWOPlaza MayorJirón HuallagaBar Cordano 202 Jirón Ancash;Tel. 011-51-427-0181Presidential PalacePlaza MayorChurch of San Francisco471 Jirón Lampa y Ancash; Tel. 011-51-426-7377

Casa Hacienda Los FicusLurín Valley, 15 minutes south of Lima; Tel. 011-51-444-4022Pachacamac RuinsKm 31 Old Pan-American Hwy., half an hour south of Lima; Tel. 011-51-430-0168Central Restaurante376 Calle Santa Isabel, Mirafl ores; Tel. 011-51-242-8515Ayahuasca Restobar130 Avenida Prolongación San Martin, Barranco;Tel. 011-51-981-044-745

DAY THREELa Espiga de Oro Bakery901 Avenida Almirante Miguel Grau, Barranco; Tel. 011-51-247-4919Las DeliciasCalle Ignacio Merino 505,

Mirafl ores;Tel. 011-51-222-0104El Parque del AmorEl Malecón, Mirafl oresMercado Surquillo No. 1Paseo de la República, block 53Chez Wong 114 Calle Enrique León García; Tel. 011-51-470-6217Bar Inglés590 Los Eucaliptos, San Isidro; Tel. 011-51-611-9000Parque El OlívarAvenida Los Incas, between Choquehuanca and ArceAstrid & Gastón 175 Calle Cantuarias, Mirafl ores; Tel. 011-51-242-5387 El Sargento Pimienta757 Avenida Bolognesi, Barranco;Tel. 011-51-247-9096

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Three perfect days: Lima

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