NYC 3 Perfect Days

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h e m i s p h e r e s m a g a z i n e . c o m

By Ros Lvy Brnbum / Photogrphy by Joshu Pul / New Y ork is a beacon

for the sophisticated traveler and a symbol of the U.S. “melting pot” heritage that has

made the city such a cultural mélange. In fact, many New Yorkers think that term was

invented just for them. Wasn’t it? ¶ For this reason, I haven’t always been excited

about being identified as a native, and I’ve tried to keep it a secret most of the time—especially when I wasn’t ready to deal with “You don’t sound like a New Yorker!”

But after more than a half-century of semidenial, I’m finally ready for full

★ New York City

December ’07

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ThreePerfectDays

New York



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N York NY

During construction, the Chrysler Building’s height was keptsecret until its crown was hoisted into place. It was the world’s

tallest building until the Empire State Building surpassed it.

(previous page) Radio City Music

Hall; (this page, top) the Chrysler

Building; (above) room service at

the Four Seasons Hotel; (right) the

lobby of the Four Seasons Hotel

disclosure: I’m a fourth-generation New Yorker. My grandmother told me that when she was a teenagergrowing up in New York, there were mainly fields andwoods above 14th Street. The city still has woods togrow up in, and so much more. Imagine hanging outon Sundays at the Metropolitan Museum of Art orthe Museum of Natural History, getting to know theanimals at the Central Park Zoo on a first-name basis,and exploring the many natural wonders of the park itself, home to every tree indigenous to this climate.

Being a grownup in New York is the most rewarding experience of all, and you’re invited. In the three days to

follow, you’ll savor the ever-growing and eclectic foodscene—arguably the most diverse in the world. Thesubway system is excellent, but I recommend walking New York’s neighborhoods. Sample their diversity, andyou’ll see why this city holds a spot in residents’ andvisitors’ hearts as the place of infinite possibilities.

DaY ONe / Wake up at the➊ Four Ssons Hotl onEast 57th Street, showcasing a contemporary I.M. Peidesign with all the luxuries of a grand hotel, including an ideal Midtown location. Walk or taxi the few long blocks crosstown to breakfast at ➋ Bouchon Bkry inthe Time Warner building. Fortify yourself with someof the best pastries in the city before taxiing to the 42ndStreet West Side Pier for a three-hour ➌ Circl Lin boatride around Manhattan. Yes, Manhattan is an island—something New Yorkers tend to lose sight of unless

required to cross the water to surrounding boroughs orNew Jersey. Natives delight in this excuse to show off the city to visitors, as the boat ride offers the ideal way to take in the sheer breadth and grandeur of New York.Enjoy the spectacular vistas of the New Jersey Palisades,the best views of the Statue of Liberty, the sand-castlelikeskyscrapers of Wall Street, the underpinnings of themajestic Brooklyn Bridge, and the ever-changing beauty of the skyline.



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Blue Ribbon Bakery is one of

many savory stops during three

delicious days in New York

(left); Picholine and BLT Steak

are two more (above).

Hungry for lunch? You’ll be glad that it’s only a crosstown bus or cab ride away at ➍ L’Impro, a secluded, romantic, southern Italian gem in Tudor City,with a lovely little park across the way. Re-energize withthe deeply flavorful cuisine of famed chef Michael

White. Order the oxtail ravioli, the crispy pork-belly appetizer, the braised Vermont goat, or the ragu of porkshoulder with a fabulous creamy emulsion of caccio-cavalo, a cow’s milk cheese from Campania. Indulgein a glass or two of 2001 Calabria Rosso IGT CeraudoPetraro, Val di Neto, a felicitous blending of Gaglioppoand Cabernet grapes. After lunch, take in dramatic view

of the UN on the way to the nearby, graceful ➎ ChryslBuilding, the favorite building of most New Yorkers.Make a quick stop in the lobby to admire the exquisiteart deco décor. It’s only a short walk over to your nextstop, the symbol of New York, the ➏ empir Stt

Building. Take in the fantastic view from the top whereyou can survey the many intriguing places you’ll visitduring your next two days in the city.

Back at the hotel, change for the evening’s entertain-ment, which begins with dinner at ➐ Picholin. In thisfast-paced city, Picholine provides a welcome oasis of calm elegance. Chef/owner Terrance Brenan and chef dcuisine Craig Hopson are true culinary artists. Gamebirds and truffles will be on the menu this time of year,and be sure to order the most ethereal gnocchi this sideof heaven. The wine list is breathtakingly extensive, withexcellent selections by the glass. Brenan is known for

having introduced the great cheese course to New York dining, but come back for it after the upcoming perfor-mance or you risk falling asleep during. Now rush acros

the street to ➑ Lincoln Cntr so youdon’t miss curtain call at the opera,ballet, or Philharmonic.

DaY TwO / Wake up early and headto the many charms of downtownNew York in those walking shoesyou brought. A subway ride downto Spring Street is the fastest way to get to breakfast at ➊ Blthzr,in the heart of SoHo. You can drink

excellent café au lait or even cappuccino out of a bowlthe way the French do, enjoy fine fresh-baked croissantsor quiche, and pretend you’re in Paris—but only until

you walk through SoHo to see the 50 famous cast-iron buildings dating from 1869 to 1895. GreeneStreet is the heart of this district, and building Nos. 8through 34 make up the longest row of cast-ironbuildings in the world. Don’t forget to look down—the streets are the original cobblestone. Of greathistorical interest is the Haughwout Building, at 488to 492 Broadway. It boasts the first Otis elevator (whichmade skyscrapers possible).



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3PD New YORK / DaY ONe / ➊ Four Ssons Hotl 57 East 57th Street; Tel: 212-893-6811 ➋ Bouchon Bkry Time Warner building; 10 Columbus Circle; Tel: 212-832-9366

➌ Circl Lin 42nd Street West Side Pier ➍ L’Impro 45 Tudor City Place; Tel: 212-599-5045 ➎ Chryslr Building 405 Lexington Avenue ➏ empir Stt Building 350 Fifth Avenue

➐ Picholin 36 West 64th Street; Tel: 212-724-8585 ➑ Lincoln Cntr 132 West 65th Street DaY TwO / ➊ Blthzr 80 Spring Street; Tel: 212-965-1785 ➋ Blu Ribbon Bkry 33 Bedford Street; Tel: 212-431-6061 ➌ Torrs Chocolt 350 Hudson Street; Tel: 212-414-2462

➍ Th Four Ssons Rsturnt 99 East 52nd Street; Tel: 212-754-9494 ➎ BLT Stk 106 East 57th Street; Tel: 212-752-7470

DaY THRee / ➊ Pyrd 1032 Lexington Avenue; Tel: 212-717-5252 ➋ Mtropolitn Musum of art 1000 Fifth Avenue; Tel: 212-535-7710

➌ Cntrl Prk Bothous East 72nd Street in Central Park; Tel: 212-517-2233 ➍ Th Plz Hotl 768 Fifth Avenue ➎ Sks Fifth avnu 611 Fifth Avenue (eighth floor); Tel: 877-551-9400

➏ Th Musum of Modrn art 11 West 53rd Street; Tel: 212-708-9400 ➐ Rinbo Room 30 Rockefeller Plaza; Tel: 212-632-5100

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A December spree to the Big Apple may not be as bitter asyou imagine. Highs top out in

the 40s. Morning lows settleinto the upper 20s or 30s.The urban heat island keepsthe city 5 to 10 degreeswarmer than outlying areason colder nights. The bulk ofthe city’s snow typically waitsfor the new year and leavesby late March or early April.May, September, and Octoberare pleasant. Summerfeatures spells of oppressiveheat relieved by Canadiancold fronts.

Th wthr Chnnl

Weather informationis provided by TheWeather Channel.

For more New Yorkclimatological details, visitweather.com.

Gtting around

Walking is the ideal way toexperience the city, but thesubway and bus systems andtaxis are excellent options,except during rush hour. Forlong travels nothing beats thespeed of the subway. TheMetro pass can be used forboth the subway and the bus.Pick up a “one day fun pass”for $7 at a store or buy singlerides for $2 at the station. It’sbest to allow, on average, 40minutes to and from airportsas traffic is as unpredictableas the weather.

N York for Kids

A Hayden Planetarium (haydenplanetarium.org)Laser light shows

B American Museum ofNatural History (amnh.org/ museum) Vast collections offlora and fauna C The Children’s Museum (cmom.org) High-tech, hands-on equipment D Wollman Memorial Rink (wollmanskatingrink.com)Located in Central Park E FAO Schwarz (fao.com)The ultimate toy store

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(below) MarieBelle elevates the

enjoyment of chocolate to a

culinary and visual art form;

(bottom) Visit internationally

known Moss gallery in SoHo.

N York NY

SoHo’s Moss gallery offers one of the world’s most sophisticated

selections of porcelain tableware, crystal, and cutlery, with

furniture from some of the 20th century’s greatest designers.

*** BOARDING PASS / Big Service to the Big Apple / Feeling inspired to begin your own three perfect days in one of the world’s mos

vibrant cities? United can get you there in a New York minute. United and United Express arrive in New York City 70 times per day thr

four airports—John F. Kennedy International (JFK), LaGuardia (LGA), Newark (EWR), and White Plains (HPN).

SoHo is also home to myriads of trendy food,clothing, and design boutiques, most of which open by 10 a.m. or 11 a.m. Be sure to explore the flagship Dean& DeLucca, at Prince and West Broadway; the exquisitelittle boutique Kee’s Chocolates, at 80 Thompson, forsensational chocolate truffles; and the charming tea room MarieBelle, at 484 Broome Street, to enjoy a bittersweet demitasse cup of hot chocolate, rich withColombian single-vintage chocolate. Complete yourvisit to SoHo by checking out the trendiest designs at

Armani Casa, at 97 Green Street, and Moss gallery, at146 Greene Street, just off Houston.

If you haven’t sampled too much chocolate, you’llbe ready for lunch at the ➋ Blu Ribbon Bkry , in the West Village. Ask to see the ancient wood-burning breadoven they excavated and reconditioned, and you’ll have a clue why they produce some of the best bread anywhere.The menu is French-inspired, with escargot, Frenchonion soup, and charcuterie that rival any in France,but the spot also has the crispest, juiciest Southern friedchicken. Save some appetite for ➌ Torrs Chocolt, justa short walk into the West Village. Master chocolatier

Jacques Torres’ confections will rejuvenate your appetite.Nibble on a dark-chocolate mudslide cookie, with a deliciously gooey center, or a creamy, tangy-with-lime,wee, white, love-bug truffle.

Now that you’re comfortably sated, you’ll really appreciate the walk through the West Village pastcharming buildings where the Dutch first settled. The

Isaacs-Hendricks House at 77 Bedford Street is theoldest home in the Village, and 75½ Bedford Streetis the narrowest. Be sure to walk by Twin Peaks at102 Bedford Street, The Cherry Lane Theatre at 38Commerce, and the 15 row houses built in the 1850sat St. Luke’s Place. Don’t miss the most extraordinary little house of all, mostly hidden behind a high, walled-in garden and leaning up against a taller building onthe corner of Charles Street and Greenwich.

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Slow down with drinks at the

exquisite Four Seasons Restaurant

(left); colorful buttons allow

admission to the Metropolitan

Museum of Art (above).

You are now about to leave one New York world foranother, and the transition will be best accomplished bytaxi. Time for cosmopolitans at the most beautiful bar iNew York:➍ Th Four Ssons Rsturnt at 99 East52nd Street. The Grill Room opposite the bar is the “inplace for power-publishing lunches, but I’ve had my betimes at the bar chatting with the perennially fascinatincoowner and host Alex von Bidder. Gazing up at thefamous Richard Lippold sculpture of long, metallicraindrops above the bar will transport you to a beatificstate of mind. And if you catch it right, the setting sunwill be captured in the seductively swaying bronze-chai

curtains, casting golden, roseate hues.Drink in the calm; then you’re off to a hot spot forthe full New York steak experience: dinner at ➎ BLT

Stk . Sail past the lively bar scene into the slightly lessnoisy main dining room for culinary adventure. LaurenTourondel started out as an inspired seafood chef, solobster and three main selections of fish are alwaysavailable. Be sure to try the tuna tartar appetizer, a cylinder of little jewellike cubes of the finest sushi-gradetuna atop pale-green cubes of perfectly ripe avocado,surrounded by a synergistic soy vinaigrette. For the mealover, there is a great New York strip, the prized centereye of the rib roast from Wagyu beef. There are also veachops, and excellent rib lamb chops cleverly encrustedwith pesto. As soon as you order, gigantic, 5-inch-tallGruyère popovers arrive along with a tasty charcuteriesampling including velvety and delicate duck liver pâté

topped with port wine gelée . For dessert, don’t miss thelight and luscious crêpe soufflé with passion fruit sauce.

Ask the sommelier’s advice; the soufflé deserveto be paired with his best dessert wine of thevening. Don’t deprive yourself—you’re

only a block from bed.

DaY THRee / After last nightindulgences, you’ll surely welcome the mile walk to

breakfast at ➊ Pyrd forexcellent coffee and pastries. If you get

there early enough, the very popular almond croissantsmay still be available. The spectacular Belle Époquearchitecture and décor is the perfect prelude for yourvisit to the ➋ Mtropolitn Musum of art, whichincludes more than 2 million works of art from all over

the world, ancient through modern times. On depar-ture, the windows of the haute couture boutiques of Madison Avenue provide a delightful diversion foryour walk down to lunch at the ➌ Cntrl Prk

Bothous. This little-known wonder offers one of the loveliest settings in New York any time of year,and the food’s good, too.

The famed shops of Fifth Avenue begin just wherethe park ends. Make quick stops at ➍ Th Plz Hotl




D A Y 3

(top) the Museum of Modern Art

Design Store; (above) Saks Fifth

Avenue spruces up for the

holidays; (right) Bundle up and

join the skaters in Central Park.

N York NY

The Museum of Modern Art’s collection has grown from aninitial gift of eight prints and one drawing to include thousands

of paintings, sculptures, drawings, prints, photos, and films.

(its ballroom just reopened after restoration), Tiffany,and St. Patrick’s Cathedral. Along the way, revel in thespectacular holiday windows that bring so many peopleto New York after Thanksgiving. Then warm yourself with a bittersweet but mellow cup of hot chocolate atCharbonnel et Walker Café on the eighth floor of ➎ Sks Fifth avnu, while gazing at the hypnotically flowing chocolate fountain and conveyer belt of desserts.

Enjoy the smell of roasting chestnuts as you walk pastthe street vendors to ➏ Th Musum of Modrn art,which has just completed the largest building project inits history, nearly doubling the space for exhibitions and

programs. Be sure to visit the museum shop for a fineselection of tasteful gifts.

On your way to the➐ Rinbo Room, walk throughRockefeller Center to see the skaters whirling by thesplendid golden statue of Prometheus descending withthe flame of fire for mankind, beneath the towering trimmed Christmas tree. Take the elevator up to theRainbow Room, sip its famous Bellinis, and enjoy thebest view of the Chrysler Building from the observationbar. For the most spectacular panorama go up to thenewly opened observation deck on the 70th floor—theTop of the Rock.

It’s only a short walk back to your hotel, which is alsohome to Atelier de Robuchon, deservedly one of only two Michelin three-star restaurants in New York, andyour grand-finale dinner. Sit at the counter to enjoy theplating of each exquisite dish as you savor the vibrant

flavors and sip wine from the first-class wine list. Enjoy a glorious tasting menu of many little plates tailored toyour taste, culminating with memorable desserts createdto order by pastry chef A.J. Bella Rosa—a perfect ending to a perfect dinner and three perfect days in New York.u Ros Lvy Brnbum is the author of many classic cookbooks, including The Cake Bible, The Bread Bible, Rose’s Celebrations, The Pie and Pastry Bible, and Rose’sChristmas Cookies.

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NYC 3 Perfect Days

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