PRESS KIT

1986-2011

25years

SummaryTWENTY FIVE YEARS UNDER SCRUTINY...

Fronsac: a Notion of History... Page 5

Glorious Times of Château Fontenil... Page 9Acquisition, presentation of the property, chronology and salient facts

Portrait of Dany & Michel Rolland : P 15

«Le Défi de Fontenil» :True Trench Warfare!...P 19

Twenty Five Years of a Specific PersonalPhilosophy... Page 23

Technical Sheet : P 27Terroir, vineyards, marketing, personalities of our team.

Twenty Five Vintages under a Microscope : P 31Climatology, vintages, characteristics of wines of their times

Our Vertical Tasting of :

24 Vintages of Château Fontenil : P 39from 1986 to 2010

7 vintages of le Défi de Fontenil... : P 43from 2000 to 2010

ChâteauFontenilSince 1986, Dany and Michel Rolland achieved to make Fonte-nil a real reference in terms of "cru". It's during 25 years, and it's for them the opportunity to bend over these 25 vintages which follow each other but not necessarily alike. A real radioscopy of a quarter of century of Life...

- 3 -

Fronsaca notion of History...

ALREADY, AT THE TIME OF THE ROMANS …Before the conquest of Gaul, the vine only constituted a comple-mentary culture. It is only because of the effects of the Gallo-Ro-man civilisation that it became both a social and a cultural neces-sity. Of all the potentially viticultural soils and lands offered by the conquered Aquitaine, it is very possible that it was the region of Fronsac, with its rocky slopes and fine exposition to the elements, as well as its proximity to navigable waterways, that seduced the agronomists and agriculturists of that distant era. Studying the writings of Columella, Palladius, Pliny or Virgil, certain zones were mentioned as ideally suited to viticulture and furthermore, these learned philosophers and practitioners provided concrete advice as to how to select the ultimate vineyard sites: knolls (“Tertres”), rocky slopes forming part of the relief and offering sunny exposi-tions, favourable climatic conditions, regular hydrographical water flow and presence as well as accessible harbours. They even went as far as stating that clay soil, conducive to the modelling and fabrication of jars and amphorae, was perfect. All these recommen-dations were discernable as being directly inspired by the condi-tions surrounding Fronsac! It is not an exaggeration to believe that Roman knowledge and experience would be irresistibly drawn to benefit from the natural endowment their experts proclaimed as indispensible and, therefore, it is only natural that the Roman agriculturists and viticulturists should be seduced by this region! Numerous vestiges of this period, which have been discovered so far, bear witness to their presence and their viticultural heritage.

According to the opinion of Bernard Ginestet, the author of a book on the wines from Fronsac*: “...in my opinion, Fronsac was the first historical vineyard area in the Bordeaux region. This proposition is by no means a provocation. I would even dare to consider that it is the result of an erudite intuition, which has become a firm conviction.” Also remember that after the Romans, Charlemagne (Charles 1), crowned emperor in the year 800 AD., “paid particular attention to wine from specific growths”. He built a powerful fortress on top of the Tertre de Fronsac (the highest knoll in Fronsac). “Fronciacus” is spelled out in full letters by Eginhard, the chronicler of the Emperor with the curly beard.

Fronsac

- 5 -

A CITADEL AT FRONSAC...Later, the citadel of Fronsac would be the focal point of the Dukes of Gascony and of Aquitaine who succeeded one another – until the first marriage of Aliénor of Aquitaine with Louis VII, King of France. She took tremendous care to main-tain and preserve her Duchy outside the statutes and legal grip of the kingdom. Her alliance with the Plantagenets (at the time of her second marriage to William, King of England) was quite beneficial to Fronsac, which, like Aquitaine, fell into step with the English. Viticulturists and merchants knew a resounding success. The creation of the harbour of Libourne, in 1269, opened wide the route of the wines of the region to distant destinations. The port of Fronsac added to this growing traffic.After the Battle of Castillon, in 1453, which marked the conclu-sion of the Hundred Year War, the Leopard of Guyenne made room for the Fleur de Lys (Lily Flower, the standard of France) on the pennant that flew over the Fronsac fortress. Later, Louis XIII was to judge this fortress as a menace to peace in the region, even though his father, Henri IV, had granted Fronsac the status of Marquisate. He therefore ordered its destruc-tion. However, after its reconfi-guration, the Richelieu family bought the Seigneury because of its position and the strategic possibilities of the Knoll of Fronsac. In 1634, the Cardinal, the first Duke of Richelieu, conferred upon it one of the most prestigious titles in the kingdom, that of life Duchy and Peerage.

FROM THE XVIII CEN-TURY TO TODAYOver the span of various successions and heritages, the title of Third Duke of Richelieu and Second Duke of Fronsac was bestowed by right upon a grandnephew of the Cardinal, Louis-François, who remains in the annals of history under the title of “the libertine marshal”. In fact, from as early as his adolescence, he cultivated the art of pleasing the ladies, particularly those ardent and beautiful creatures found at the Court of Louis XVI. Fronsac, as he was called, in spite of his numerous noble titles, was an avid and unbridled consumer of what they offered!

Nevertheless, the gallant festivities and fine suppers did not divert this epicurean’s attention away from his duties as a soldier. His bravery and valour earned him several honorary positions, for example, that of Ambassador in Vienna, Governor of Guyenne and Gascony.

It is during this period, as Governor, that he undertook major structural developments and projects in Bordeaux, in particular the construc-tion of the Grand Théâtre, which was inaugurated in 1780. Fronsac was passionate about wine and food pairing and he insisted on personally selecting the ones served to match each menu, moreover the details of the wines also figured on the written menus of his dinners. He had a tremendous appreciation for fine Burgundies (the famous “Richelieu’ Infusions”) and became an amateur and a connoisseur of great, aged Bordeaux. Undoubtedly, he was responsible for introducing these Bordeaux wines to the Court. He died at the ripe old age of 92, in 1788, having left a significantly mark upon his era and his region.In consequence, during the 18th Century, the wines of Fronsac

benefited from the finest reputation amongst the wines of Libourne (Saint Emilion, Pomerol, etc.) and furthermore, were privileged to fetch the highest prices. In 1750, as a result of this tremendous success, three well considered notables from Fronsac, Messrs. Lafon, Boyer and Mathieu were the first to initiate a viticultural revolution, transforming the vineyards, which until then had consisted of “métairies” – “small land holdings” into “crus” – estates, smaller in size and the ancestors of the concept of “châteaux” and “domaines” as we know them today.

At the end of the XIX Century, faced with the disaster of Phylloxera, an illness that touched the entire French winelands, Fronsac entered a profound crisis from which it would recover with great difficulty, having lost part of the fame that it had acquired over the previous centuries.The more recent history of Fronsac is marked by the

it’s desire and willingness to have the exceptional character of its terroir and the remarkable countryside and sites of the region recognised and to revive once more, the prestigious past history of its wines.

“Man is not entirely guilty: he did not initiate history; nor completely innocent since he continued it” - «L’homme n’est pas entièrement coupable : il n’a pas commencé l’histoire ; ni tout à fait innocent, puisqu’il la continue» (Albert Camus – The Summer [L’Eté])

SOME FIGURES: Fronsac: 71 producers covering 840 hectaresCanon Fronsac: 33 producers covering 280 hectares

• Le Grand Bernard des Vins de FranceWritten by Bernard Ginestet, Published by Editions Jacques Legrand (1994)

R

- 7 -- 6 -

ACQUISITION : In 1986, Dany and Michel Rolland, young oenologists at the dawn of their forties’, yearned to put some distance between them and the noisy, bustling centre of Libourne, not only to find a home, but also to move their laboratory. They started hunting for a country home. Their attention was drawn to a dwelling on the high slopes of Saillans.

The house was in a derelict state; everything had to be replaced, but the view over the valley was superb and… seven hectares of vines were also for sale – historically attached to Château Le Faure Haut-Normand.

Nevertheless, they left feeling rather inclined to refuse, but after a few days of reflection they decided to reconsider. They wondered about a different possibility: why not a private viticultural property?At the time of their first visit, they had felt duty bound, and driven by inborn politeness, to scrutinize and examine the vineyard and therefore knew that it was healthy, with strapping and courageous old vines.And the soil and the terroir? This is where the history of Fronsac comes into play once again. When, in 1973, they bought the laboratory from Mr. and Mrs. Chevrier, the latter had just taken over the clientele of Mr. Cany,

OF CHÂTEAU FONTENIL

Glorious TimesThe Glorious Times

- 9 -- 8 -

pharmacist at Lugon (unfortunately, space does not allow the luxury of a full explana-tion, but in those days country chemists in the vineyard regions also performed oenological chemistry in their dispensaries).It was the young oenologist Michel, already active, spirited and enthusiastic, who took over this part of the newly acquired laboratory’s activities. He visited properties in Fronsac, Lugon, Saillans, Villegouge and Saint-Michel…; travelling backwards and forwards through the vines on the winding roads of the “Côtes” (hillside slopes) and the “Canon” (rounded mound). He was very often obliged to wear his boots while driving along in his old Citroën Méhari, which was no longer waterproof!

Michel Rolland was born amongst the rolling vineyards of Pomerol, where he lived with his parents and grandparents, all winegrowers, and thanks to this proximity to the land and the terroir, both Michel and Dany learnt to love this natural environment. The region of Fronsac with its landscapes, its soils, its rolling hills and valleys, provoked a veritable “coup de coeur”.However, let us return to the approach to the acquisition of the 7 hectares with a residence. It certainly was not the vineyard that was going to frighten them away – on the contrary!Thus, they accepted the proposition. It has to be emphasized, for the sake of an anecdote, that a few days before the signature in front of the notary (the solicitor), the proprietor (Mrs. Godrie) stated that she no longer wished to sell the house (which she inherited from her mother). Needless to say, the Rolland couple was totally taken aback, but agreed never-theless to buy only the vineyard. Nonetheless, they obtained an oral promise, from the owner, to sell later to them, that which they had been looking for in the first place, that is to say a country haven with a roof – which only became a “château” in 1990.

In the meantime, a name had to be found for this ... Château! They decide on “FONTE-NIL”, the cadastral name of a plot, which became "Fonteuil" due to an administrative and clerical error (actually, it seems that the

« Time is invention or it is nothing at all »

name meant small fountain!).

“Château Fontenil” was born with the 1986 vintage! In reality, with no château, no installations and no equipment! A new challenge to overcome, an out-and-out construction site to launch!

A QUARTER OF A CENTURY – FOR BETTER AND FOR WORSE!

“Time is invention or it is nothing at all”- « Le temps est invention, ou il n’est rien du tout » (H. Bergson - The Creative Evolution [L’évolution créatrice])

- Inventory: The cellars, with walls built of beautiful, local, rough stone, but terribly grimy, housed dilapidated old wooden and concrete vats. No dimly lit corner for storing barrels, but a stable and termites everywhere. However, the overall picture, together with the well, resembled the quaint corner of a little village.This place had a soul, but needed a body to accompany the soul. That would be the veritable challenge and the work of many years’ labour as well as immense effort and at times sacrifices.

- From 1986 to 2010, a generation of surprising vintages, difficult or generous, gruelling or emotional, set the rhythm of the oenologist couple’s life and careers. The increasing curiosity of Dany and Michel was continuously awakened, and their sensibilities were frequently stimulated, without ever becoming boring to them or blunting their enthusiasm. They recount: 1986: First, and only, year of vinification in the old wooden vats – nobody slept peacefully… and some nights nobody slept at all!

1987: Smaller fibre glass vats of 70 and 90 hectolitres were found and were installed under the old awning – it is infinitely better to vinify in the open air than to do so in insalubrious containers! Do it yourself was the order of the day, with an old makeshift refrigerator together with an old cooling unit and mobile cooling apparati.

1990: -Transformation of the ancient vinification cellar and barrel cellar – stone cleaning, repairing of the roof; an attractive roof support structure was put in place, floor surfacing, etc.-The oak staves of the antique vats served as material for making all the windows, doors and door frames, in short, all the wood work of the technical vinification buildings. It was not

rare to see tears of tannin seep out of this noble, recuperated oak, which thus stained it with indelible marks of the life cycle of the wine.-Acquisition of the house – finally - but in a totally inhabitable state.-In the vineyards: after the first deleafing, the first, if very tentative green harvest.

1991: The year of the frost, 21st April to be precise. No selection possible; ironically, no wine either! No Château Fontenil this vintage. An appalling and crushing financial blow to all the ongoing projects. As a result, the transformation work was stopped in its tracks as well as the first ideas concerning the planning and conversion of the house.

1993/1994: Reconstruction of the tallest building destined for the vinifica-

tion vats. The old, traditional, rough stone was scored, cleaned and treated with whitewash, the roof repaired, the exterior walls cleaned and renovated. Gently, proceeding one step at a time, one stage after the other.

1995: One night, the roof of an adjoining outbuilding, next to the fermenta-tion cellar, caved in, completely devoured by termites. We were obliged to reconstruct this area and it was only later converted into a tasting room and rooms for our guests. However, there were other projects to realize with greatest urgency.

1997: -After construction and renovation work over a three year period, we finally moved into the house for Michel’s 50th Birthday (December 1997).

- 11 -- 10 -

-We bought a neighbouring parcel of land, measuring 0.99 hectares, which gave Fontenil its dimensions of today - 9.4 hectares. Moreover, we procured a tenant agreement with the previous proprietor for the farming of another 2.2 hectares.

1999/2000 - The real technological evolution: -Construction of a new barrel cellar, which also contained 3 oak vats of 60 hectolitres -a folly for the appellation - but Fontenil was worth it fully!-Installations in the vinification cellar: stainless steel vats of 57 and 80 hectolitres in capacity, all equipped with reversible thermo-regulation.-Using adapted crates (baskets) for grapes - double sorting tables, before and after destemming.-Modernising and decorating of a tasting room and guest rooms for our clients and journalists.-In 1999, equipping 1.6 hectares of vines with plastic sheets on the ground between the rows, in order to reduce the effects of rain at the end of the colour changing in the grapes, and to permit waiting for a good degree of maturity, particularly in these later ripening terroirs - an experiment that was not very well received! A veritable Defi (challenge) in all the senses of the word (See page 19)

From 1999 to 2010, practically only good vintages, a quality revolution!In each one of the parcels the selections are carried out with more and more precision. Each batch of grapes – hand picked into small crates at optimum ripeness – is sorted before and after destemming, and then vinified separately (as whole berries or crushed or even whole bunches) in the wooden vats, with manual punching down, or in the stainless steel vats, with the most gentle possible pumping over. After 6 to 8 days of cold stabilisation, follows a

period of long maceration (up to 40 days), which resembles an infusion more than an excessive extraction. All fermentation takes place with indige-nous yeasts and without any additives; BIO without shouting about it from the roof tops.Here, material has to be mastered; the tastings and the analytical controls are both numerous and continuous. Half the new wine is run off into new oak barrels, while the must is still warm, which allows the malolactic fermenta-tion to get under way smoothly.In the traditional way, without neglec-ting the advantages of high technology equipment, a delicate pressing is realized. This is perfected thanks to a JLB vertical press, which ennobles and enhances the marc juice, only too often excluded from the blend.None of this diminishes the perpetual desire to better understand the grapes from each parcel in order to pick them in an “à la carte” fashion, so to speak, weather conditions permitting of course. Therefore, in 2008, the decision is taken to vinify exclusively in new oak barrels for the “Défi” and part of “Fontenil”.

This artisanal technique, but with few restraints, consists, after the manual sorting of the berries, in filling the barrels with approximately 250 Kg of grapes (instead of several tonnes in a vat), which increases the possibility of zone differentia-tion within the same parcel. A further advantage being the possibility to only pick what is perfectly ripe each day. Thus

fermentation with whole berries takes place, and depending on the vintage, a certain percentage of whole bunches (with the proviso that the stalks are well “aoûtées” (ripened, in other words, entirely red). During fermentation a light manual punching down also ensues. Afterwards follows a delicate extraction, which is brought about entirely by the rotation movement of the barrels on their own axis. A group of energetic intern trainees proceeds to turn the barrels every three hours on their "Oxo" supports: tailor made winemaking indeed!The advantage: a more precise vinification, which respects the fruit and the textured matter upon which there is no any mechanical constraint. The inconvenience: at the end of the process, a multitude of small lots, but that then becomes the problem of the one who is to perform the act of blending… with a total respect for drastic parcellar selection.

This concern in preserving, until the final blending, the specificities of each lot are then also pursued during the phase of maturing the wine: 15 – 18 months in barrel of which 50 – 60% are new (renewed every year) and 40% barrels of one year’s wine.It is the diversity of the soil and the variety of the parcellar expositions that bring about the complexity

and the originality of the “Cru”, vinified with the most careful respect for the vineyards, which are worked with totally traditional viticultural practices (ploughing the soil or grassing, environmentally responsible, minimum intervention and ecologically sustainable treatments, no weeding, etc.), until the wine is bottled without any fining.

A second wine, more straightforward and accessible when still young, is called “Filet Rouge”. It is matured in vat in order to preserve more freshness and minerality. This wine is produced in years with

more generous volume crops.“A work sees the light of day in its time and of its time, but it becomes a work of art by that which escapes it.” - « L’œuvre surgit dans son temps et de son temps, mais elle devient œuvre d’art par ce qui lui échappe. » (André Malraux - The Metamorphosis of the Gods [La metamor-phose des Dieux])

This is the reason why wine, in its golden years, remains a mystery, guards its secrets and leaves us as thrilled as we are admirative and curious.

«A work sees the light of day in its time and of its time, but it becomes a work of art by that which es-capes it.»

- 13 -- 12 -

PortraitMichel Rolland was born, in 1947, at the edge of the appella-tions of Pomerol and Saint Emilion, into a family of viticultu-rists over many generations. His whole childhood and adolescence was spent on the family property, Le Bon Pasteur at Pomerol, bathed in nature and tradition. This may be the explanation for his love of the land in general and the vine in particular. This combined with a certain curiosity and a real temperament!After his technical studies at Agricultural College and then Viticultural School, he entered the Oenology Faculty of Bordeaux University.

Dany is originally from the Dordogne and from a milieu not involved in viticulture. After her secondary education in Périgueux, she enrolled in the Medical Faculty of the Univer-sity of Bordeaux, in June 1967. The events of May 1968 led to some disturbances during the examinations, and having met Michel and other pharmacist friends also studying Oenology,

she decided to follow the same path… while waiting.

Was it falling in love, head over heels, with the man or with the science of wine? Both! They were married in 1970, just after achieving their degrees, and started their professional lives together.

In 1973, the couple joined forces with the proprietors of an analysis laboratory in Libourne and this was the starting point of their life involvement with oenology and the vine.In those days, oenologists were more analysts and chemists than active on the field. Modern oenology was in its infancy. Michel started to travel the length and breadth of the region visiting the different properties. Dany, remained at home, managing the laboratory and holding the fort.It was also in November 1973 that Stéphanie was born, in

Portrait and

- 15 -

the midst of the transactions and excitement of acquiring the labora-tory, and after a very difficult vintage. Perhaps this is why she never followed in her parents footsteps in oenology, even though she is a scientist at heart...Marie was a born during May 1978: the tenth anniversary of the national tumult and agitation, which is perhaps responsible for her non conformist side and her artistic soul. “Whatever the case, we succeeded in instilling the love of wine in them from a tender age as well as a profound respect for our work and a deep love for our properties”.The two girls grew up at the Cours

des Girondins in Libourne, over the premises of the laboratory. A small place where everything was always simple and where everybody was familiar with everybody else. The clients, the laboratory technicians, the secretaries, and the dog – all and every one crossed each other in the corridors ... One big family!

At the death of Serge Rolland, in 1979, the couple took over, together with Michel’s Mother, the management of the family property, Le Bon Pasteur, and ran it alongside the laboratory.

En 1985, destiny knocked on the door: Michel was requested, by the manager of a winery in California, to go and study the means of optimising the potential of the wines of the region. His natural curiosity and his desire to enlarge his already conside-rable knowledge, decided the future.This was the beginning of his life as a consultant, which would lead him to the four continents, covering more than a hundred and fifty properties and more than a dozen countries. A journey interspersed with extraordinary encounters, amongst widely diverse cultures, in different latitudes and climates.A professional adventure and an exceptional experience in human relationships!

Of course, Dany was always there at home to ensure the management of the laboratory, the properties and the growing number of future projects, etc.In 1986, in search of a haven of peace and seduced by the slopes and hills of Fronsac, they bought 7 hectares of a lovely vineyard, where the Merlot rejoiced in the Molasses of the same name. But it was decidedly not a cure of “Farniente” at Fontenil in Fronsac!!! (See the chapter “The Glorious Times”)In 1992, they leased by farming contract a property in Lussac: Château La Grande Clotte where they made the first white wine in their portfolio, the first white Bordeaux made on the soil of Saint-Emilion.

Subsequently, Michel and Dany were to have real emotional attachments in more distant lands, some of which were exhilara-ting “coup de coeur”: in South Africa (Bonne Nouvelle in 2002), or earlier on in Argentina (first steps from 1988), where they invested their curiosity, energy and enthusiasm to create the concept of Clos de los Siete, in Mendoza (1999), and to construct their own bodega to vinify Mariflor and Val de Flores. At the same time, they pursued the adventure of Yacochuya to the north, a blend of tradition and exoticism at an altitude of 6.500 feet. Not neglecting Campo Eliseo, in Toro, Spain, with François Lurton from 2001.

In the meantime, in 1997, the laboratory became larger and more important and the establishment moved from the Cours des Girondins in Libourne to Catusseau in Pomerol – in a way, returning to its roots!As far as the family was concerned, together with the two daughters, they moved to Saillans, and settled on the Fontenil property.

Over the years, Michel’s time and work schedule became even

heavier and his occupations more and more time consuming, with thousands of tastings and analyses. Nevertheless, his native land, and in particular his region of birth, were never overlooked. He practised his trade on both banks of the river - in the Libourne vineyards as well as in the Médoc and the Graves, together with several properties in the south of France. By now, the laboratory and the consul-tancy employed and fully occupied ten oenologists.

“I had to learn to speak English and Spanish”, confirms Michel, “my schedule became rather complicated, but it still remained entirely in the service of wine – my passion – to a point that I could never have imagined”.

Therefore, with all the family talents and achievement, scientific education, inquisi-tiveness and intuition, Michel and Dany had to understand, or try to understand, all the influences and factors involved in working with the land and with man in all their diversity and in all the far flung corners of the earth. A task highly complex yet hugely appealing, which gives rise to emotions, exaltation and a desire to share these feelings and experiences in company, with a glass of wine, for the sheer Pleasure of it.

Two lives dedicated to challenges, to renewed questioning, but also of wonder and awe, enlightened by deep seated enthusiasm!

“Life may be regarded as an art” (H. H. Ellis - The Dance of Life)

Anecdote: in 2011, for the vintage in the Bordeaux region and those of his other concerns in the northern hemisphere, Michel was still a mere 63 years old, yet he celebrated his 63rd vintage as an oenologist.In 2012, for his first vinification in the Southern Hemisphere he will be 64 years old and this will be his 64th vintage.Subsequently, the “flying winemaker” will have more vintages (“millésimes” or “cosechas”) to his credit than years of age on this earth, but equally a staggering number of flying hours!!!

- 17 -- 16 -

- 19 -

DéfiAT THE BEGINNING,AN EXPERIMENT...The predominance of heavy and fresh soils (calcareous clay or Fronsac Molasses), combined with the fickleness of the meteorological conditions, both demand a certain knowledge and experience, as well as a daily dose of pragmatism, to temper the grape so that it can express the very best of itself.

In 1999, therefore, a certain initiative seemed to us to be judicious. The laying of plastic sheets on the ground between rows, in order to avoid the penetration of water, detrimental at the end of the “veraison” (changing of the colour of the grapes), to give the grapes the opportunity to mature more fully and harmoniously, particularly on the late ripening soils of Fronsac.The experiment was planned to stretch over three years, covering a surface of approximately 1.6 hectares of Merlot on two steep parcels. This in order to be able to reuse the same tarpaulins cut to size to fit the length of the rows. This experiment represented a certain investment.Thus, in 1999, the results proved extremely convincing. The tarpaulins had been put in place on 8th August and until 25th September – harvest time. Around 120 mm of rain had fallen. The grapes were in perfect sanitary condition and considerably sweeter with a

better extractability of the anthocyanins and furthermore a more advanced maturity of the pips. The results were impressive and were confirmed by the quality of the wines produced from the protected vines.Nobody, in a position of authority, took the trouble to come and taste the wine and the produce of this experiment, was directly incorporated into the wine of Fontenil.

A SPANNER IN THE WORKS...In 2000, the experiment was repeated. The tarpau-lins were installed slightly later, on 23rd August, because after the rain in July the soil needed the time to dry out.Two days later, a letter was received from the INAO (Institut National des Appellations d’Origines) – The National Institute of Controlled Appellations – ordering us to remove the tarpaulins immediately, under the threat that the wine from the concerned parcels would be declassified as “table wine”. No official explanation, but for the technical commission this procedure could susceptibly alter the terroir and furthermore, was unaesthetic. No study had been undertaken by their own services... and certainly no consultation or discussion before this arbitrary decision.

True Trench War...Le Défi de Fontenil

Fas

hion

Col

lect

ion

- V

inex

po 2

009

- A

rt D

irec

tor

: Mar

ie R

olla

nd /

Pho

to :

Lili

Ren

ée

As we have always thought that it is better to carry out an experiment to its conclusion in order for it to be techni-cally exploitable (on the principle of scientific methodo-logy and correlation), we kept the tarpaulins in place. As a result, in 2000, we produced 8,000 bottles of table wine; in fact a very particular kind of special cuvee. The Fontenil Challenge was born, called “Le Défi de Fontenil”. Thus, in 2001, after an interview with the President of the INAO at the time, René Renou, by the very realistic and impartial Périco Légasse (what a joke !!??) of the Marianne (a French weekly magazine), the following was published: “Good wine is made by the vine, not by the label on the bottle, nor by displacing or reconstructing a terroir ... The art of make up or retouching, whether it calls upon new oak or upon techniques with barbaric names, is a veritable calamity. The fashion of industrial wine, “manufactured” for competitions, denies all principles of the AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) - Controlled Designation of Origin - ... I have asked our technical commission to define a rule that would limit the trivialisation and banalisation of wine ... For example, plastic mulching of the soil is a genuine disgrace ... certain growers trample underfoot the specificity of the terroir. The typicity must take precedence over the quality, because it is from the terroir that the authenticity of the appellation springs ... Terroir is the symbolic national patrimony of our exceptional culture. The Republic cannot allow the French flag to float over treacherous wines”.

A REMAKE OF THE LIONAND THE GNAT... as in the fable of Jean De La Fontaine!

Obviously, this “polemic” journalist (since that time, we know that he is equally a mediocre winemaker ...), virtually gargled with these words that René Renou was to regret later on, once he tasted the wines in question and understood the reasons behind the actions; he was an intelligent man who recognised when he had allowed himself to be carried away.

In guise of a response to these principles, we prefer the much more appropriate phrases of Michel Bettane that everybody recognised as being more pertinent to the matter.

“Everywhere one can read that an end should be put to the unintelligent fashion by which the wines of Bordeaux would eventually be transformed from paragons of civilisation into apocalyptic and destructive monsters. Any and every argument is good enough: from the eternal primacy of divine law of classified terroirs, to the accusa-tions of trickery and proffered dishonesty towards the

newer, well mediatised stars. This remake of “The Lion and the Fly” has proven to be too ridiculous and merits a reply. Firstly, let us remind the public, and the historical growths, that the terroirs of Bordeaux have never been classified as have those of Burgundy and Alsace ... but by commercial trademarks according to sales prices registered by the wine trade over a long period of time. Certainly, these prices reflected quality, the concur-rence of well advised management and of terroirs of immense value. However the soil of the Gironde is such that important growths, and ones of quite different renown, share soils of comparable quality. This has allowed, from time to time – and up to now, nobody has regretted it – enlightened and experienced viticulturists to re-evaluate a lesser known terroir and thus, over a period of time, to obtain well merited recognition of their wine... A few wines, made by artists of wine making, on terroirs of quality, have ascended in the hierarchy and will remind us all of the vitality of the

Bordeaux vineyard region. As far as the spirit of perfectionism of the “Garagistes” is concerned, it pricked the conscience, served as a wakeup call from lethargy and routine and thus allowed progress for all. This was not negligible at all, in fact quite a feat.” (“La peur du loup garage” as published in the Revue de Vins de France of April 2001), [literally the fear of the garage wolf, a play of words on a “loup garou”, a French mythical human changing into a wolf like creature].

And, in Fronsac, to prove that one has to go against historic prejudices installed by the local wine merchants, and the swamp like attitude of certain proprietors (of good wines, simply honest and easily marketable ... yes, but above all – cheap!). That being said, we continued and renewed the experiment with the tarpaulins in 2001 (90 mm of rain in September/October), then again in 2004, for the last time, with the arrival of magnificent late seasons, Indian summers if you wish, and a certain warming of the climate plus

the hydric deficiency which we have known over recent vintages.Today, the “Défi de Fontenil” remains the “cuvee de tête” (the special cuvee of Fontenil) – without tarpaulins, and therefore, without any ... artifice!), still a “table wine”, or since 2009, a “Vin de France”, in order to justify its name: a true “challenge”! No vintage mentioned – merely a batch number for each one.

Since 2008, the vinification of the grapes has been done entirely in new barrels, where the wine remains for 18 – 24 months, before being bottled without fining or filtration.

Meticulous care and attention to the soil and the wine, and state of the art winemaking and maturing in order to sublimate the terroir of the 3 parcels selected for their exposition and for the age of the Merlot rootstock (over 60 years), and exalt both the personality and the synergy of the wines that they produce.

«...As far as the spirit of perfec-

tionism of the “Garagistes” is

concerned, it pricked the conscience, served as a

wakeup call from lethargy

and routine and thus allowed progress for

all...»

- 21 -- 20 -

Philosphy“There is no art in the world that requires as deep a philosophy as that of agriculture.” - «Il n’est nul art au monde auquel soit requis une plus grande philosophie qu’à l’agriculture.» (Bernard Palissy)

“Philosphy is none other than the effort of the mind to comprehend that which is evident.” - «La philosophie n’est autre chose que l’effort de l’esprit pour se rendre compte de l’évidence.» (Jules Lagneau)

How insolent, and even vain thus to be outspoken about the Défi de Fontenil project and about the very substance of our conceptions, principles and practices!

MODIFYING THE TERROIR: What about the drainage and the profiling of the soil (useful though!!) What about maltreating and abuse of the soil (compaction by the passage of tractors, use of fertilisers and chemical treatments, poisoning theearth ...)?

FABRICATED WINE, TECHNOLOGICAL WINE AS OPPOSED TO WINE OF THE TERROIR?The roots and the vine’s rootstocks have not moved

from one place to another; nor has neither the sun nor the moon.The methods of cultivations, of picking and of making wine are indeed very traditional, whilst at the same time respectful of the environment: no chemical fertilisers, no herbicides, only minimum intervention (environmentally friendly and sustainable treatments) are used; ploughing, “tirage de cavaillons” (flattening back the soil in order to use a blade plough superficially under the vines); deleafings when and if necessary and manual aeration of the grapes; picking into small crates or special baskets, manual selection either of the bunch or manual sorting of the berries; no chemical products or additives during vinification or maturing of the wine - except small doses of SO2 - and fermentations with indigenous yeasts...

By definition, technology is “the putting in place of a coherent body of knowledge and practices founded on scientific principles with means, material, equipment and structural organisation applying these scientific applications”.

Obviously, and fortunately,

of a specific philosophy...25 years

- 23 -

there is certain amount of technology even in our artisanal work and craftsmanship. One can no more overlook the discoveries which bring about understan-ding of the functioning and the disfunctioning of fermentations, than one can ignore those which have facilitated the adaption of better material, equipment and instruments to work in the vines as well as in the cellars (ploughs, destemmers, crushers, sorting facilities for manual selection, pumps, vats, barrels, etc.) in order to make the best wine from the best grapes. As young oenologists, we were familiar with acetic and sour wines, with wines suffering from “tourne” (degradation of tartaric acid by a deviation in the metabolism of lactic bacteria), or to wines with “maladie de la graisse” (the appearance of an oily like substance in the wine by lactic bacteria before fermentation), to every possible yeast and bacterial deviation in some, to spoilage of wine due to dirty or unhygienic containers and to old containers coated in tartrates, to “casse oxydasique” (extreme oxidation of wine due to spoilage by enzymes of the phenolic components), to wines with residual sugars, to “piqûre lactique” (degradation of sugars by lactic bacteria), to acid wines and to “tord-boyaux” (literally, gut rot wine), to flabby ones and to diluted wines without any trace of charm... We “survived” all the bad technolo-gies and horror treatments of the Seventies and Eighties:

machine harvested grapes, excessive manipulations, aggressive physical and chemical treatments, outra-geous degrees of fining, filtration that left the wine completely stripped, equipment and products which showed no respect either to the soil, or to the vine or to the wine.We have always tried to analyse and tried to unders-tand the reason behind things. And particularly, we have always worked differently. Is it not the most natural of actions to guide and grow the vine correctly, to respect it, to pamper the grapes and to take infinite precautions with the wine, whilst taking every preven-tative measure necessary to avoid any kind of accident.

Knowing full well that the only natural product made from the vine is called vinegar!!!

WHERE IS THE STANDARDISATION? AND THE STEREOTYPE? Or even the wrongdoings of the principle of precaution, which is applied in numerous estates, by people more concerned by their peace of mind that by the product itself?

IT IS EXACTLY THE CONTRARY: work of great finesse, painstakingly detailed, observation, patience, adaptation to the soil, to the slopes ...; then perpetual self-questioning for each vintage, in our thoughts, achievements and fundaments of a certain tradition, because we are custodians of earth and nature. At the same time finding tailor made solutions and methods of

work, which often even involves hand crafting.This is the very principle of integral vinification in barrels that allows the interpretation of the nuances of the terroir and the grape variety, and the practice of the very finest selection: does this concept frighten people?

Therefore, let us cease to oppose “oenologist” and “vigneron” (winegrower), “technician” and “artisan”! Let us cease to look for pretexts for the non respect of the terroir and for the homogenisation of taste – these are the inconsistencies and ineptitudes of the uninitiated or the lowest form of jealousy!Obviously, due to determination, to great efforts and improved knowledge, all wines have improved with the help and assistance of Mother Nature; it is an evolution towards quality and personality, not towards a dictatorship of taste.Earth entombs us, heaven is all powerful, and we remain mere apprentices all our lives, in search of supreme pleasure, yet so attached to our roots and our culture in their differences, but not with indifference!

The tasting of the 25 vintages of Fontenil clearly demonstrates that evolution evolved in the right direction, but not without reflection, sacrifices and adaptions to optimise that which the terroir offers us. It always has the last word.

The geographer, J. R. Pitte, once said, “In a glass of wine there is

a third of geography and geology and two thirds of history”. There is also the perspiration of the winegrower ... to produce well, to sell well, to respect and preserve his or her living heritage and to be proud of his or her wine. Here is savoir-faire, transmission, education and the sharing of emotion.

This has been our direction over our 40 years of producing wine and of our oenological activity. It is the opposite of what has often been said or written, sometimes with agressivity and sometimes in ignorance, at other times with the “political incor-rectness” of not being willing to see or to taste, with preconceived ideas, which simply cover sheets of paper and generate the anticipated polemic.

It is also an offense to all those artisans, our collaborators: cellar masters, winegrowers, willing helpers, all of whom invest their time and energy and their souls in order to rise to the challenge of making the best possible wines on their lands: “The apt wine, the wine which bears upon it the stamp of its birthplace and the moment of its birth allied to the sweat and courage of its creator” - « Le vin juste, celui qui a la gueule de l’endroit et du moment où il est né, et les tripes du bonhomme qui l’a fait »(Jacques Puisais)

- 25 -- 24 -

SheetOF CHÂTEAU FONTENILTechnical Sheet

THE TERROIR“Or speake to the earth, and it shall teach thee” Job 12: 8(8 – 4th Century B.C.) - King James Version (1611)

We have already mentioned the historically recognised quality of the landscapes and soils of these hills, valleys and slopes of Fronsac; “Tertres” (knolls) and “Côtes” (hillsides) with some of the most advantageous and ideal expositions, exposures and flow of air.Fronsac, like Saint Emilion, is a country in the geographical sense of the word, but inside this unitary whole: hypsometry, scale, hydrography and geography, reveal a multitude of micro-local particularities.

The vineyards of Fontenil, covering a surface area of 9.4 hectares, are composed of four sites in the commune of Saillans.The geological spread presents:

- plateaux: the calcareous (limestone) table of Stampian (Limestone with Astéries [remains of marine fossil origin]) covered by red clay and siliceous silty loam.- ledges and long slopes with plinths of soft rock – clayey sand masses or marl: the famous Molasses of Fronsac and Clays of Castillon.- at the foot of the hills there are fluvial formations: feldspathic sands, gravel and green to ochre clays, connected, to the north of Saillans, to the Périgord Sands (material created by the spread of “transportation soil” originating in the Massif Central mountain range in central France).

To these different families of terroirs has to be added:- Differentiations due to the thickness of the covering of the surface,- Variations in orientation and in inclination,

- 27 -- 26 -

- The nature and the degree of slope of the determinating sub layers for the natural drainage of the terrain.

In this way, each parcel of Fontenil benefits from this kind of stratification from top to bottom with different altitudes and expositions from: “Filet Rouge", which is south facing, looking towards the Isle and Libourne, to “Carles”, “Le Faure”, “Le Basque” and “Fonteuil” facing more towards the north north east.The subdivision into smaller sub parcels, one could say: into top, middle, low, along the cardinal points, by age of vines, etc. allow the planifica-tion and spacing out of the vintage (hence the interest of vinifying in barrels), placing emphasis on the diversity and the complementarity of the various soils responsible for a certain uniqueness of the “cru”.

AGE OF THE VINES Overall, they are on average older than 40 years, with an average plantation density of 6,000 vines per hectare (1.1 m by 1.5 m).Some of them do not have a precise date noted on the grape variety declaration: they were planted prior to the 1950’s, at a time when common sense and “home grafting” took pride of place over the administrative necessities.

In this way, the old vines of “Filet Rouge” and “Côte Fonteuil” were already “beyond known age” in 1986, at the time of the inventory that took place upon the acquisition of the property.Other vines were planted just after the dramatic frosts of 1956.Some parcels were replanted during the Seventies and the Eighties, and we ourselves regularly restructure small surface areas of the vineyard with, in addition, the thoroughness of today’s pedological knowledge.

“It may still be passable to build: but to plant at this age !!!”«Passe encore de bâtir : mais planter à cet âge !!!» (Jean de La Fontaine – Fable : Le Vieillard et les Trois Jeunes Hommes) – The Old Man and the Three Youngsters

GRAPE VARIETIESThe vineyards are constituted as follows:- 90 % Merlot,- 10 % Cabernet Sauvignon, amongst which are to be found a few rootstocks of Cabernet Franc.

CLIMATEThis could lead to quite a discussion! Bordeaux vineyards profit from a temperate, oceanic climate with Mediterranean nuances. Effectively, it is climate that is the veritable biological father of each vintage, so to speak. Man being only the spiritual father who rears it.

It is the climate that makes winegrowers shudder and tremble in their boots from Christmas until harvest time. Winter frosts, spring frosts, storms, violent tempests, hail, variations in temperature – these decide the dates and the vagaries of weather which affect flowering and fruit set, and thus the quality and the state of health of the foliage and the grapes, not forgetting the correct

degree of ripeness.

It is also the climate that determines the broad lines and characteristics of the wines, and in 25 years, we can confirm that it has created an amazing palette and an astonishing diversity!

It has to be added that in the hillsides of Fronsac (les Côtes), just as in Saint Emilion, the relief of the terrain accentuates the Mediterranean tonality of the different manifes-tations of weather: heat, drought, ventilation. Our vines are content in cold and wet years, but also in dry years, due to the influence of the freshness of the sub soils.

VINIFICATION (Generously mentioned in “The Glorious Hours of Fontenil”).

PRODUCTIONOn average 40,000 bottles of Château Fontenil per year.From 0 to 8,000 bottles of Défi de Fontenil, depending upon the vintage.From 0 to 12,000 bottles of Filet Rouge, depending upon the yield and the selection required for the first two. MARKETINGUntil the 2004 vintage, and for nearly 20 years, Fontenil has been marketed “en primeur” by the Bordeaux wine merchants (“negociants”).In 2007, “Rolland Collection” was created to ensure the sale of wines from all the properties. Château Fontenil was removed from the “Place de Bordeaux” as of the 2005 vintage. It was put back again in 2009.The idea was to find the best

distributors for each country or state, to reduce the distribution circuits, to master our communication and to get to know the consumers better by offering a range of wines from different horizons: Bordeaux certainly, but also our best loved and most appreciated products from foreign lands.Fontenil therefore, is today proposed “en primeur” or as ready to deliver bottles, both on the export and the home, French market: to restaurants, wine shops and to private customers, via Rolland Collection and a dozen or so Bordeaux wine merchants. Today, it is distributed in over 25 countries amongst which figure Germany, the Principality of Andorra, Argentina, Belgium, Brazil, Canada, China, Cyprus, South Korea, Croatia, Denmark, the United Arab Emirates, Spain, France, Great Britain, Hong Kong, Italy, Japan, Malaysia, the Nether-lands, Romania, Russia, Singapore, Switzerland, Sweden and the United States of America. It is David Lesage, assisted by Stéphanie, our daughter and his wife, who manages the young company of Rolland Collec-tion, of which we are, together with all the wines that it proposes, the best supporters and ambassadors across the globe.

THE MEN AND WOMENA true family venture! - Michel and Dany Rolland: technical expertise and management.- Stéphanie Rolland-Lesage: accountancy and fiscality.- Marie Rolland: graphic design and communication.- Xavier Rolland: cellar work.- Virginie Rolland: sales and relationships with the Café Hotel and Restaurant networks (Hospitality Trade).And Corinne Bost-Herbert: administration.A huge thank you to Benoit Prévot, Bernard Leyney, Eric Soulas and the team in the vineyards, as well as Thierry Haberer, the latest to join us.Oenologists, technicians or winegrowers, all are artisans and creative craftsmen...Let us finish by adding that all the work in the vineyards and the cellar, as well as for harvest, is executed manually thanks to the faithfulness, competence and dedication of the men and the women, all from the country area.

(We wish to pay homage to Professor

Henri Enjalbert for his research and to

Bernard Ginestet for the quality of his

quill!)

“Or speaketo the earth, and it shall teach thee”

« Gerbaude » Harvest Party 2011

- 29 -- 28 -

UNDER A MICROSCOPE25 vintagesClimatology, vintages, characteristics of wines of their times

1986Fine year, but what a plenitude of grapes! The stress of begin-ners!(467 hl [hectolitres] – 67.4 hl/ha [hectolitres per hectares])After a relatively fresh spring, but generous set, the flowering took place under favourable conditions. July – August normal, a long slow changing of colour... September just as one could have wished for : warm and dry. A vintage of large volume, therefore slow to ripen!Fortunately, thanks to the effects of an Indian summer, the Merlots and Cabernets reached exceptional ripeness over the first days of Octo-ber and harvest started during the following 10 days under the influence of the nervousness accompanying a first vinification.Due to a generous application of the technique of “saignée”, the wines were well coloured, dense and presented a fine structure and fabric with ripe and velvety tannins. The wines were destined to be wines for maturing over a long period of time doted with an excellent balance. A huge produc-tion. A real challenge with the old

wooden vats and very limited material and equipment of any quality!

1987Not easy at all! (421 hl – 66.5 hl/ha)A snowy winter eternalised and spring was definitely timid.Moderate flowering conditions... Summer was slightly less hot and more humid than could be wished for, but September came along with wonderfully dry and warm weather – until the arrival (around 15th) of persistent rain.The early ripening Merlots did not suffer too much and were picked under good conditions during the first days of October, but the later ripening ones, as well as the Caber-nets, suffered some disturbance to their process of maturity. Difficult year. Wines with average colour and fruit. We did not yet dispose of the technical equipment and means to proceed with a drastic selection process.On the palate the wines were frien-dly and agreeable but with weak acidity and good tannic support. A rather technical vintage... for wine

procuring simple pleasure.

1988What a pleasure to be a “vigne-ron” – winegrower in this splen-did year! (355 hl – 56 hl/ha)A vintage with no problems and what is more, throughout the entire period and all its stages! Well installed and settled fine weather which was the prelude to a drought that lasted for 3 long years...The date for the onset of harvest grapes was delayed as far as possible, until 4th October, and it occurred blessed by continuous sunshine. Resulting in well colou-red, powerful, concentrated and balanced wines with lovely tannins and a certain firmness... All this assured a fine future. A beautiful, classic vintage.

1989Great vintage. Precocious. Generous production.(454 hl – 65 hl/ha)Several meteorological records were beaten. One could already have picked some Merlot parcels during the month of August. This

- 31 -

had not been experienced since 1893! Everything happened under ideal conditions: fine spring (in spite of a rainy April) and a flowe-ring at the end of May (phenomenon quite rare), all conditions were perfect for an early ripening.Difficult to assess the date of harvest. In fact, it stretched from 12th September until mid-October and it was conducted on a “tailor made” basis, in other words parcel by parcel.The degree of alcohol in the wine was high (13% by volume) with low acidities (which gave an impression of sucrosity). The wines were well coloured and deeply fruited, concentrated and full bodied with amplitude and depth and ripe tannins.

1990Very fine, dry year. (426 hl – 68 hl/ha)An exceptional vintage. The third of a trilogy, which is very rare in the historic records! It was also the first year of a true green harvesting, because in July, the crop seemed very abundant. But the thinning out was still too timid... looking back at the yield!In spite of the persistent drought, the vineyards remained in a perfect state of health and the grapes were magnificent. Hydric stress caused a slight slowdown in the changing of colour, but without prejudice to the ripening of the Merlots, which reached maturity around 12th September. The sugar levels were high, the quality of the tannins exceptional. This was truly gran-diose wine, dense, very intense and bestowed with profoundly deep colours, ripe fruit aromas, fulso-meness and amplitude, beautifully silky tannins and lovely length. Wines of great staying power. An outstanding success for Fronsac, in spite of the generous yield (rare!).

1991Year of misery! Sadness,

distress...During the night of 21st April a dreadful frost descended upon the vineyards... We were totally powerless faced with the vagaries of nature: as a result only 114 hl = 16 hl/ha! No Château Fontenil at all.

1992Delicate year, too much rain, too much dilution! (350 hl – 49 hl/ha)Humid summer, large yield, pressure from diseases... The vintage took place between 5th – 11th October. The technical knowhow combined with “savoir-faire” allowed good wines to be made, nevertheless simple ones in a difficult year.Average colour, quite full bodied and endowed with good quality tannic structure and fabric. They had all the attributes necessary to be agreeable wine, to be consumed in 3 – 8 years.

1993“July and August created the must”! (395 hl – 55.6 hl/ha)It was a year in which the quest for quality and technicity were crucial. During the month of August an extraordinary drought helped the grapes come to grips with the problems of copious rain in September. The different work techniques in the vineyards (pruning, thinning and deleafing) did the rest. The vintage took place from 27th September to 5th October. The harvested grapes were in perfectly healthy condition and showed good sugar concentra-tion.The wines were brilliantly ruby with ripe, red fruit aromas. The tannins pronounced their presence without agressivity; the structure was elegant and harmoniously balanced.Wonderful perspectives for the fulfilment and pleasure that this vintage would procure!

1994A good vintage due to great care and attention.(397 hl – 46.4 hl/ha)Once the risk of spring frosts had past, we were subjected to the stress of the flowering, then the changing of colour and finally, after a period of three months during which we slowly permitted ourselves the luxury of dreaming, September smashed any hopes that we were caressing of reproducing a 1982 or a 1990. September was subjected to very inclement weather which made us forget all else. Harvest time was rapid – 20th – 26th September – and thanks to sophisticated work on the grapes, the formidable potential amassed during the summer was able to be retained.The Merlot was slightly in advance of average and practically at its maximum potential with lovely, ripe tannic structure; the Cabernet, which could have profited from a touch more sunshine, demonstra-ted concentration and a slightly more than usual austerity on the finish, but in line with the rigour of the wines of the Bordeaux region. Good ageing potential?

1995Great vintage of charm, preco-cious and promising.(503 hl – 63 hl/ha)A mild winter and a lovely month of April, with no frost, brought about an early and rapid budding. The flowering was closely grouped and homogenous with mid flowe-ring around the end of May. Summer was hot and dry from mid June up to the beginning of September. But the rainfalls which occurred on 8th and then 14th and 19th September put paid to any prospects of an exceptional vintage. Maturity was not far off and the rain did not spoil the potential of the grapes, due to the meticulous work in the vineyards. The sugar/acidity balance and the phenolic maturity were the best

since 1990.As the previous year, harvest was early and rapid, again 20th – 26th September. The Merlots were excellent, and ensured a vintage characterised by finesse and pleasure; whereas the Cabernet, very close to optimum maturity, was responsible for making consis-tent and full bodied wines. The whole being aromatic, rich and fulsome, endowed with harmo-nious tannins. It was a fine vintage with great elegance, wines made to last, but yet becoming accessible rapidly. A success for Fontenil, in spite of a large yield.

1996Beautiful vintage, an expression of rigour!(509 hl – 60 hl/ha)Mild winter, fresh spring... An exceptional phenomenon and an historic one too – in this vintage the flowering took place in hot weather and happened rapidly: from the first days of June. One has to go back in history to 1986 and 1950 to find comparable conditions.Subsequently, for 1996, to the expression “August creates the must”, we could add, “September nourishes it!” After the storms at the end of August, a superb anticy-clone moved in during three weeks, which brought about a very fine changing of colour with remar-kable photosynthesis.The vintage started on 29th September. The Merlots registered lovely concentration and fine fruit expression, the Cabernet had achieved exceptional ripeness.The wines showed superb colour, lovely fabric and texture with structure. They had powerful tannins; were aromatic and well balanced and also had gorgeous personality. The vintage presented all the criteria of a great Bordeaux vintage, promising to mature over many years to come.

1997Literally and figuratively, a

delicate vintage!(435 hl – 50.8 hl/ha)Spectacular start with fanfares resounding: budding took place during the first days of March... Never, in living memory of the “vigneron” winegrower, had it occurred this early. The time until the risk of spring frosts was past dragged by very slowly indeed! Then it was the drought that settled in. The first flowering appeared around the very begin-ning of May, also never seen or heard of before. Unfortunately, a cool and rainy period started on 8th May, the flowering became stationary and began to trail behind, “coulure” (shatter) and “millerandage” (shot berries) resulted. Nevertheless, it finished during the first days of June, but with huge heterogeneous patches. Over the next two months rain and sun alternated until the arrival, at the beginning of September, of an anticyclone which stayed put until around 10th October.Good ripeness, fine sanitary state in spite of the dilution that occur-red often during the summer due to the very humid conditions. The vintage took place between 18th September and 6th October, “tailor made” and in the heat.The resulting wine was satisfac-tory, wines of lovely colour with concentration and silky tannins. As in all delicate, difficult years, it is a vintage of the “vigneron”, that is to say the winegrower who took parti-cular care and paid meticulous attention to detail throughout the difficult stages of the year... and the result was a pleasurable, heart warming glass of wine.

1998Exceptional year on the Right Bank!(514 hl – 54 hl/ha)Late budding; an April which beat all the records for rainfall, this vintage was not announced under the most auspicious conditions. However, during the first week of

June, the flowering proceeded without any problems. Nothing to report. End of June, beginning of July, the temperatures were low for the time of year and the sun was just not present! Then followed a very hot month of August with four consecutive days of tremendous sunshine and temperatures higher than 36.5°C, which entailed a very rapid deve-lopment of the richness of the aromatic and phenolic compo-nents. Things started to fall into place... The grapes were excellent, healthy and progressed rapidly. We picked them between 1st – 5th October.The results were impressive; deep and black colours, the texture rich and silky, as one finds in the great vintages. The quality level of the Merlots was surprising.The wines were profoundly purple with rich and complex aromas of black fruit (blackberry, cherry and blackcurrant) mocha and caramel. They were powerful and full bodied on the palate, the finish was opulent with lovely, round persis-tence, and the whole was both rich and elegant.

1999Year of technicity, but lovely result thank to hard work and tenacity! (495 hl – 46 hl/ha)No spring frost, but the tempera-ture remained obstinately low and the rain – deficient in the month of March, was superior to the average in April, May and June – which caused the pressure of disease to be very high. Summer was rather disappointing with abnormally high precipitation. In spite of this, July, August and September (which beat the all time absolute record for rainfall!) brought higher than average seasonal temperatures with continued instable weather, but fortunately no hail as in Saint Emilion. The vintage took place from 23rd September – 5th Octo-ber. First experimentation with

- 33 -- 32 -

plastic sheets and a well equipped new cellar. Fortunately, because it was a very technical year, one of those when all facets have to be mastered. The result was satisfac-tory in spite of serious heteroge-neity all around.The wines were well coloured and structured with firmness. The maturation brought charm and balance to the young tannins. A new generation of wines...

2000A large step, yet not that easily achieved!(430 hl – 39.7 hl/ha)The month of April was warm and particularly humid. May and June was very hot and moderately rainy with two weeks of cooler and more humid conditions. August and beginning September were very hot and dry. Conditions were ideally suited for precocious deve-lopment: the flowering and the changing of colour were relatively rapid and homogeneous. Overall, the hot and dry conditions of August allowed excellent ripening, except for vines planted on sandy soils, which suffered from impor-tant hydric stress. The vintage took place from 25th September to 6th October. The grapes showed parti-cularly fine quality, the skins were thick and rich in phenolic compo-nents and the sugar content was high.The wines, very dark, were rich and consistent. Unctuous and suave on the palate with plenty of fruit and meaty flesh. A very great vintage for this end of the century and a great figure to sustain it! There was to be 8,000 bottles of Le Défi de Fontenil.

2001Not a very favourable year... but an astonishing vintage! (352 hl – 33.8 hl/ha)The level of rainfall was superior to the thirty year average, a jagged distribution of temperatures in a saw tooth schema, alternating

periods of cold and moments of extreme heat... Here too, it was necessary to get the better of it!Debudding, deleafing and other thinnings permitted the obtention of good quality grapes picked from 6th – 17th October, and in conse-quence, of great wines... with small yields. This vintage was not homo-geneous like its predecessor, but the work and care in the vines produced excellent wine with fine quality tannic structures, good balance and lovely maturity of fruit. It would be a competitor of consequence and charm behind 2000, and we are particularly proud of Fontenil and Le Défi de Fontenil (7,200 bottles).

2002It could have been 1963, or ’65 or ’68! However, it will simply be pleasure! (374 hl – 35.6 hl/ha)A vintage of a cold year, one of those in which previous work done in the vineyards would prove preponderant for the quality...Normal budding, flowering at a reasonable date, followed by three days of abnormal cold for the season – during the nights of 6th, 7th and 11th June the temperature vacillated between 7° - 10°C – and then, on 14th June, shot up to 35°C! This eventually was discon-certing.Result: shatter and shot berries caused first green natural harvest and lowered the forecast of the yield. June was very dry, July and August fresh. The pressure of Botrytis demanded perpetual surveillance and stress was a permanent companion. Harvest occurred over the period 7th – 14th October – with an exceptional Indian summer.The wines were quite expressive with lovely ripe tannins, and the acidity at a good level, and had beautiful suppleness. Charm and a certain finesse were the major characteristics of this wine. A vintage of pleasure for the one

enjoying a glass of 2002 Fontenil, and of transition...

2003The vintage of the heat wave! (312 hl – 30.4 hl/ha)A summer like this had not been experienced for a very long time with numerous days of incredibly hot weather... The sun was never an enemy of the vine but... with this kind of intensity it did provoke stress in the vine, which led to defoliation, to blocked maturity, to grilled and even to raisined grapes and to keeping the acidities at a very low level... But the vines of Fontenil resisted well, the calca-reous clay soils are fresh. And once the wine was in the vats, the acidi-ties rose again, the anthocyanins were present... We could allow ourselves some optimism; we knew that the wines would turn out to be superb. harvest was precocious, obviously, from 17th – 26th September. And, as we expected, the crop was rather small.The wines had fantastic colour, the fruit and the structures were super-bly round and meaty, fleshed with amplitude yet without being heavy.Once again a small yield, but the potential was there!

2004The vintage of fear! The reward was the result!(574 hl – 57 hl/ha)Late but correct spring, a flowering without problems and the generous vines promised us an avalanche of grapes. The yield promised to be abundant. The “cleaners” started their activity as of July to balance nature’s generosity; at the end of the month the lack of rain became evident, everything was dry! We asked ourselves whether we were about to relive the summer of 2003? We started to regret the green harvesting, particularly after 3 years of meagre yields... At the beginning of August the pressure started to mount as did the stress in the vineyards; it even went as far as

delaying the changing of colour. But on 10th August the rain arrived, and only stopped at the end of the month. The fear of over-production raised its ugly head again, but worse, the fear of Botry-tis also arose. However, from the onset of September to mid October the weather was splendid and the vintage started 4th October.It was a classic year, the wines were doted with good colour, the acidity was excellent and the stunning tannins were velvety. The wines were straight down the line and structured with very fine fruit quality.

2005An excellent vintage. The power of generous Mother Nature!(388 hl – 38 hl/ha)The vegetative cycle of the year occurred under almost perfect conditions. The budding was only slightly late, but a lovely spring, accompanied by low rainfall and ideal temperatures, helped to rapidly catch up on the delay. The flowering took place at the normal time, beginning June, and was both homogenous and short, over approximately one week. The month of June was hot and sunny. The onset of July also heralded the arrival of a few storms, but they served perfectly to alleviate a minor drought situation. The vines grew under the best possible conditions. At the end of August, once again some rain brought the necessary humidity and moisture. Harvest proceeded from 26th September to 10th October.Thanks to expert management of the yield, the grapes were picked under excellent conditions – they were gorged with sugar and fruit, the skins were thick and well char-ged with anthocyanins and tannins and acidities were at very good levels, whilst the sanitary state of the grapes was perfect. 2005 will always be remembered and will be mentioned in the history of Fonte-nil, like 1990, but with, in addition,

refinement brought about by deeper knowledge and experience of the property as well as by savoir-faire, by selection and by tremendous respect for the grape, which we did not have 15 years before.Moreover, 9,600 bottles of Défi de Fontenil were produced as well.

2006A good vintage; difficult to follow in the footsteps of the magnificent 2005!(416 hl – 38 hl/ha)A long and rigorous winter and a late budding were followed by a relatively wet spring... We would have thought that the flowering would also occur with a delay. However, the weather adjusted itself miraculously and little by little; the vegetation reached its normal speed and rhythm of growth. The changing of colour was quite uniform and homoge-nous and at the end of August, conditions seemed exceptional enough to envisage another great vintage. However, the rain of September somewhat perturbed the end of the ripening process. We started to predict a late harvest, but the climate proved us wrong and we were obliged to advance the date to 25th September.Due to the impressive potential acquired during the month of August, the wines were quite well coloured with sound structures, yet the tannins were somewhat firm and tight and announced a wine fit for long ageing. Overall, the wines were bold with huge body frames and powerful, muscular fabric.

2007A vintage “saved” by the labour of man in the vineyard, but equally in the cellar!(518 hl – of which 83 hl as Rosé – 47.7 hl/ha)A warm April encouraged the budding of the vine. It came about early and one could already think about a fine vintage. The flowering

took place in May, two weeks before the normal date and was disturbed by rain and low tempera-tures. June was twice as wet as in 2006 and in 2005, mildew made its appearance and several deleafings were deigned necessary. Summer was contrasted: July and August remained fresh and humid; the changing of colour occurred in a heterogeneous fashion, green harvesting was obligatory. Insuffi-cient heat and deficient sunshine turned a year supposed to be early into a late vintage, with the delay between mid changing of colour and ripening which could reach as much as 60 days. Practically unheard of in Bordeaux! Summer finally arrived – in September with exceptionally magnificent days until the end of October. The vintage took place between 5th and 15th October in sunshine with selective pickings, sorting and reverse osmosis in the cellar to “pamper” the structure of the wine – somewhat diluted by all that had occurred.The wines were well coloured, presented silky tannins with the elegance and finesse of very fine vintages. The wine was not power-ful, but possessed friendliness and balance.

2008A late harvest – classic, complex and “haute couture”!(295 hl – 27 hl/ha)One has to go back in time to 1988 to find similarities in the climatic conditions. April was very cold (7th there was frost damage in the vines), May was disagreeable, cold and rainy. In the beginning of June, the flowering did not proceed under the best auspices: it was too cold and the rain was very abun-dant for the season. The result: shatter and shot berries announcing a small yield... July the weather improved and was better than in 2007, but August did not behave properly and was cloudy; miserable weather with regular

- 35 -- 34 -

short, soft bouts of rain, which caused constant humidity, and temperatures below the seasonal norm. The changing of colour was behind hand, then started slowly and did not finish until the second half of August. In consequence, the vintage was late – 13th – 23rd October – and of necessity was very selective. Vinification almost entirely in new barrels: for the first time!The wines were structured and dense, and reflected viticulture respectful of the fruit and fabric and which seemed to have all the elements required for a surprising vintage! But one of the smallest harvests in history – there were only 1,200 bottles of Défi deFontenil.

2009Once again a late harvest which was not planned, but a gran-diose vintage with power and harmony!(406 hl – 39.5 hl/ha)The early season was somewhat difficult: the temperatures were average for the season, the rainfall way superior to the norm. Flowe-ring occurred under less than ideal conditions and with quite high pressure from mildew. We did not go as far as saying that “our morale was at half mast and our hearts in our socks”, but in the same state as the current economic climate – not exactly euphoric!At the time of Vinexpo, the weather changed. A period of sunshine, luminosity, and heat arrived. Nothing excessive, but exactly what the vine loves above all.Setting went smoothly, everything

happened rapidly and the changing of colour – during the last week in July – announced a precocious year – a very good thing. August, which “creates the must”, was summery and the analytical results at the beginning of September were excellent: sugar content was already high, but what was of parti-cular interest, was the quantity of anthocyanins and the very low level of malic acid.Then, in mid September – stress in the cottage hearth: 50 mm of rain fell in one bout, which did not allow the water to penetrate the soil, but at least provided a dyna-mic impetus to achieve maturity. The late season, a true Indian summer, gave the opportunity for a “tailor made” vintage from 6th – 15th October. What a joy, no pressure! The same with regard to the macerations – and of the running off into barrel: 4th December – another historic first! The wines showed excellent fruit, a dense mid palate, silky tannins and an exuberant finish. The archety-pal example of a great wine, which would be able to travel through many an age unhindered!And 4.200 bottles of Défi de Fontenil to boot!

201025th Vintage of Fontenil, the smallest yield. Grandiose and minute!(252 hl – 24.5 hl/ha)The only anxiety of this vintage was during the flowering when the weather was not very appropriate at all. The old vines had some difficulty and encountered problems of shatter and shot berries, naturally reducing the

harvest – therefore not much green harvesting. Summer was not very characteristic of Bordeaux with its oceanic influence: plenty of sun and light, no rain and not ever very high maximum temperatures, low minima and fresh, cool nights with rainfall much lower than normal. 2010 was a dry year.All ingredients and conditions were united to lead to a vintage of great quality. Harvest took place from 9th – 15th October in sunshine and in good humour. The only shadow in the pretty picture: historically, the smallest vintage at Fontenil (few bunches and very tiny berries).Thanks to the lovely late season and Indian summer, the Merlot and the Cabernet grapes had a quality of taste rarely equalled: the skins were thick and rich, the juice harmoniously aromatic and savoury.The best parcels were vinified in barrel, either with whole grapes or only slightly crushed, and even whole bunches in some cases. The musts were rich in sugar with excellent quality aromatics, supported by very good pH’s which re-enforced the fresh character. A record amount of anthocyanins and after long skin contact tender and silky tannins, just as we love them best.A perfect young sibling for 2009, seductive and promising, a rare wine indeed.

(The volumes and yields indicated represent the Crop Declaration of the vintage and not the production in bottles of Fontenil after selection: Rosé de Saignée, Second Wine...)

- 37 -

- 39 -

from 1986 to 2010 (July 1st 2011)

OurtastingVertical tasting of 24 vintages of Château Fontenil

…“Only treating wine as an alcoholic beverage, is totally negating history and making a ‘statistical soup’ with our culture. It is the same as reducing Monet to the sum of kilos of paint and Ravel to the sum of decibels. Wine invites us all to the exercise of our sensorial faculties. To discover wine in all its diversity, to know how to taste it, how to appreciate it, how to relish it, both with our mind and our senses – this is both to be learned and shared. ...(Manifest – “Vin et Santé” – Wine and Health)

1986Brick hues, developed nose, notes of tobacco and dry leaves, charming, but fitting for its age ... Straightforward on the palate, quite harmo-nious, attractive yet uncom-plicated body, supple and mellowed tannins, light structure and finish, but without dryness (which could be expected at this age), fresh and balanced. Alive!* *

1987Amber coloured, notes of turpentine, before evolving into a certain minerality underlined by smoky tones. On the palate, still slight freshness, very light and diluted, some notes of coffee on the finish. It is short, but with some persistent tannins without asperity, without any hint of roughness. It shows its age and its vintage!(*)

1988Lovely amber tone, quite discreet nose, almost retiring, then red fruit with venison and tobacco notes. Quite reserved palate. The body has a tight fabric on a fine grain and quite a full and persistent finish. An elegant austerity!* * *

1989Sustained colour with amber reflections, nose with hints of game, tobacco, dry flowers and forest floor (moss and mushroom), very “natural”. Round on the palate, lovely ripe fruit with tannins which still make themselves felt without agressivity. Light dryness on finish, but an astonishing palette of lingering aromatic expression...* * (*)

1990Profound colour with amber reflections, attractive nose of intense red and black fruit, toasted and liquorice aromas. Plenty of sucrosity on the attack, round and full bodied, lovely tannic fabric which leads to an attractive length. Powerful and complex – a wonderful Fronsac balance – with a touch of ruggedness on the finish.* * * (*)

1992Quite developed brick colour. Relatively severe nose with notes of intense gaminess dominating the black fruit which confirms itself upon aeration.Round and light on the palate with freshness in the middle, but lacking some body. Its linear character and its present discretion remind one of the vagaries of the weather suffered at the time but, during its youth, it was truly a wine of pleasure.* (*)

1993Garnet colour with brick reflec-

tions. Nose of torrefaction, cacao beans and dried flowers. Round and dense palate, very pleasant tannic fabric. Voluptuous and well structured. Quite surprising charm!* * *

1994Intense colour with brick reflec-tions, black cherry nose, Kirsch and smoky notes, but no great intensity. Slightly linear in spite of a certain combination of fruit and freshness, but some rustic tannins, a tight framework and a drying finish. Less well developed than the previous wine, although it was more harmonious in its youth. Disappointing!* (*)

1995 Lovely colour of profound amber. Nose of game, forest floor, tobacco, a vision of the hunt ... Rich structure and a velvety texture on the palate, solid but without heaviness, closed tannins but harmonious texture. The aromatic persistence which accompanies the finish has something magic about it...* * * (*)

1996 Garnet colour with brick reflec-tions, subtle and complex nose with attractive ripe, red fruit and notes of peppery florality. Mellowed palate, aromatic, round and full bodied with silky tannins on a fine, harmonious fabric. Spicy, long and fresh finish. A vintage of maddening seduction. Still lingering and showing its charms... * * * (*)

1997Lovely carmine colour. On the nose gamey notes vie for a place beside the ripe fruit. Result: at present the two elements are head to head! Elegant and suave palate unfolding on a wonderfully

aromatic expression and balanced finish with still present tannins, but without agressivity in their persistence. Here too, a happy surprise...* * (*)

1998The “amber” hues are left behind to make place for ruby. Nose of florality, spice, liquo-rice, complex and quite exhila-rating. Lovely attack and fine complexity on the palate, polished tannins, but very persistent with a dense and suave finish.Elegance personified...* * * * (*)

1999Gorgeous and luminous carmine colour. Intense and agreeable nose: small red fruit with notes of leather and forest floor, quite virile. Solid palate, but not heavy, with liquorice notes. Firmer and more solid tannins than in the previous wine. Plenty of freshness on the finish. Quite a seductive athlete!* * * *

2000Very beautiful and profound ruby colour. Expressive and intense nose: red and black fruit, a touch of Kirsch, notes of forest floor and a hint of liquo-rice. Very good attack on the palate, slightly severe, but softens onto ripe and dense tannins, which melt in the mouth and finish with a lovely, long persistence. Complexity and balance: quite good class, fine style!* * * * *

2001Magnificent black ruby. Com-plex nose of very ripe black fruit, already quite gamey with notes of cacao, spice and a touch of kernel. Round and

fruity palate, very aromatic with tobacco and cashew nut on finish. Gentleness and volup-tuousness characterise this athlete, who is nevertheless very powerful, constructed around tannins of fine quality. Very harmonious. A success about which we have always been convinced!* * * * (*)

2002Lovely, profound red colour, already showing amber outlines. Fruited nose with balsamic notes, macerated cherry, humid earth. Attractive fabric with good supple and succulent tannins showing firmness on the finish. It is doted with fresh persistence. Harmo-nious for the vintage.* * *

2003Beautiful, brilliant garnet, bitter almond nose with macerated cherry kernel at the onset, it evolves towards ripe fruit and plum notes upon aeration. Attack on the palate with invading tannins, but a solid and generous structure, complexity and good persistence on the finish. It is going through a closed period. One should absolutely not hurry this vintage of sunshine.* * * *

2004Attractive luminous ruby colour. Acidulated, fruited nose with liquorice notes, truffle and a delicate touch of wood. Quite tight on the palate on a solid fabric, but finely designed. The structure is dense, tannins are slightly encroa-ching and need to soften. The whole is tasty but slightly austere at this moment. Quite sturdy and attractive, but with a certain inflexibility!* * * (*)

2005Brilliant profound red colour.

Intense ripe fruit nose with peppery florality, spice and liquorice aromas with exotic wood notes. Very striking attack and concentrated palate; pulpous juiciness, full bodied meatiness with powerful and harmonious tannins. A beauti-ful palette of aromatic nuances, which evolves towards an astonishing balance and freshness in its strength. At the moment still unyielding and vowed to the future, an “Ode to Camille”.A most beautiful wine.* * * * * 2006Gorgeous presentation of robe and of bouquet: profound, fresh aromas of black fruit, kernel and liquorice. The oak is still present on the palate, but the tannins are ripe even if they remain somewhat encroaching towards the finish. The whole is well balanced with freshness and a certain restraint. One expected charm, but instead one is surprised by the potential to last for some time to come!* * * (*)

2007Very pretty vivid and brilliant colour. Fruit and freshness on the nose with some spicy and liquorice notes. The bouquet is ripe, subtle and elegant. Round and fulsome on the palate, full bodied with fruit, aromatic with lovely freshness and balance as well as polished tannins. Finish is slightly linear, lacking a spark of vivacity but, at the moment, is a fine success and surprise in a contras-ted vintage... * * * (*)

2008Vivacious ruby colour, finely oaked nose, delicate and elegant bouquet expressing fresh, ripe fruit and sweet liquorice. A discrete attack followed by a very skilfully

articulated palate, balanced and harmonious, very aromatic with intense liquorice and almost preserved, candied fruit, lovely velvety tannins and a long and persistent finish. A touch closed, yet huge freshness. A delicious and consistent indulgence, from beginning to end...* * * * (*)

2009 Magnificent and luminous garnet ruby colour. The nose develops upon aeration with significant aromas of beauti-fully mature grapes: liqueur of blackcurrant with brioche notes. Powerful, rich and dense on the palate: the wine is fulsome, juicy and inviting with attractive ripe fruit, racy tannins, spiced and velvety, notes of tobacco and dried fig. Lovely finish, long and aroma-tic. Elegant and persistent with excellent potential to mature with time! A grandiose wine – proud to be THE vintage of Arthur and Théo, the twins.* * * * *

2010 (in barrels) Profound garnet robe. Nose with hints of exotic oak like a handsome and retiring chap with warmth that is completely meridional, yet it retains its Bordeaux accent ... Plenty of sucrosity on the attack with powerful and superb tannins and ample and generous fruit on the palate, lovely vivacity on the finish, which is still slightly held in check, but when the time comes and the horses are allowed free rein, this carriage will go a long way...* * * * (*)

- 41 -- 40 -

2000Very beautiful deep garnet colour. Ripe nose filled with sunshine nuances and menthol notes, red fruit and a touch of smokiness and tobacco. Good, spicy attack followed by intense palate, very dense, unctuous and aromatic with an attractive fabric allied to a texture of velvety tannins, polished but full bodied and meaty, wonderfully fulfilling finish. Expressive and seducing whole splendidly enhanced by harmony and complexity!* * * * * *

2001Superb carmine colour – vigorous and character-ful nose! Spicy and opening on savoury black fruit. One is far removed from the general image of a classical vintage... On the palate the attack has more sucrosity than the previous wine. It is roun-der, well fleshed with a suave, very lovely silky fabric and the texture of tannins, which show themselves in a finish of aromatic and spiced persistence. Impressive wine!* * * * * *

2004Lovely ruby colour – nose of red fruit nuanced by the aromatic expression of mocha. Plenty of freshness on the palate, a tight tannic structure and fabric, deeper than that of Fontenil, but the vintage effect cannot be domi-nated...* * * *

2005Very deeply profound ruby colour – nose of finely expressed oak tones, dense with a backbone of preserved, candied black fruit and liquorice. Very

tasty attack on the palate, almost perfect balance which reveals a sumptuous and complex wine with superbly silky and asto-nishingly fresh tannins – and a long, liquo-rice finish, spicy and peppery in its persis-tence. Power and harmony which will ensure tremendous longevity. * * * * * *

2008Superb, brilliant ruby colour – nose: spicy, tobacco, liquorice, jammy black fruit, smoky and brioche notes upon aeration, a magnificent complexity. On the palate the body is dense with fine fabric, unctuous texture with ripe and spiced tannins. The finish is at present still slightly austere, but infinite and needs time to unfold.* * * * *

2009Magnificent purple colour, on the nose notes of exotic oak, menthol and ripe black fruit with tobacco and spice ... at the same time complex and subtle. The palate echoes the aromas of the bouquet over velvety tannins; the finish is long with underlined persistence thanks to the expression of freshness with a hint of liquo-rice. An almost oriental wine, but what elegance!* * * * * (*)

2010 (in barrels)Superb dense garnet colour – exuberant nose with aromas of cacao beans, vanilla and a peppery florality. Rich and profoun-dly deep. Palate: harmonious and elegant with loads of freshness. It develops the aromas found on the bouquet and persists with liquorice and very ripe fruit notes with a well constructed tannic fabric and struc-ture. Oh what balance ... proclaiming a wonderful perspective in the future!* * * * * (*)

from 2000 to 2010 (July 1st 2011)

OurtastingVertical tasting of 7 vintages of Défi de Fontenil

- 43 -

OFFICE

CHÂTEAU FONTENIL

33141 SAILLANS

FRANCE

TEL: +33 (0)5 57 51 23 05

FAX: +33 (0)5 57 51 66 08

rolland.vignobles@wanadoo.fr

MARKETING

SARL ROLLAND COLLECTION

10 CHEMIN DE MAILLET

33500 POMEROL FRANCE

TEL: +33 5 57 51 52 43

FAX: +33 5 57 51 52 93

contact@rollandcollection.com

COMMUNICATION

MARIE ROLLAND

MOB: +33 (0)6 76 86 00 17

marie.rolland@rollandcollection.com www.rollandcollection.com

CREATION : MARIE ROLLAND / PHOTO CREDITs : MARIE ROLLAND, PHILIPPE ROY, BENOIT LAFOSSE, DEEPIX