WWDWhat A RideNo trend was more rocker chic for fall than a new take on the motorcycle jacket. Deconstructing the classic, designers sent out varying shapes, fabrics and colors, including this number from Givenchy layered over a romantic gypsy-inspired dress. For more, see pages 4 to 5.

MONDAY, MARCH 11, 2013 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00

PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIONNANI

EUROPEAN UNIONS

Department StoresCatch M&A Fever

RENT THE RUNWAY’S JENNIFER HYMAN

AND JENNIFER FLEISS RAISE ANOTHER

$24.4 MILLION. PAGE 2

FUND RAISERS

PARIS FASHION WEEK OFFERED A SLEW OF ACCESSORY PRESENTATIONS. PAGE 6

FALL 2013TRENDSCOLLECTIONS

Luxury Feels Yen’s Pinch

SEE PAGE 9

By AMANDA KAISER and KELLY WETHERILLE

TOKYO — Harry Winston and Tiffany & Co. confi rmed Wednesday that they are raising prices in Japan this spring to offset a weakening yen.

That news comes just a few weeks after Louis Vuitton said it was hiking up its retail prices in Japan by an average of 12 percent to compensate for ex-change rates. In January, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton chairman and chief executive offi cer Bernard Arnault warned that currency fl uctuations would force the company to lift its prices in Japan.

Harry Winston Japan will raise prices on jew-elry but not watches as of March 22, according to a spokeswoman. Tiffany is planning to raise the prices of some merchandise as of April 10, a spokeswoman said. Neither spokeswoman quantifi ed the size of the price increases.

It is still not clear how many other luxury brands will jump on the currency issue.

Coach, Giorgio Armani and Chanel have no imme-diate plans to adjust their pricing in Japan, according to spokeswomen for the brands. Gucci and Prada de-clined to comment on their Japanese pricing strategy. Dior did not respond to requests for comment.

Last month, Jean-Marc Duplaix, chief fi nancial of-fi cer of PPR, said that the group may raise prices in the future. “There will be opportunities to increase prices on a case-by-case basis, and according to prod-uct category, if the impact of currency fl uctuations is as detrimental as the latest trends currently suggest,” he said as the company released 2012 results.

The yen has depreciated considerably in recent

By LUISA ZARGANI and SAMANTHA CONTI

MILAN — Europe’s economy may be ho-hum, but its retail scene is brimming with activity.

On the heels of bids and counterbids launched to secure Printemps, Italy’s La Rinascente said Friday it was expanding beyond the country’s borders for the fi rst time in 150 years through the acquisition of Copenhagen-based department store Illum. “We are expanding our format, not our brand,” said La Rinascente chief executive offi cer Alberto Baldan. “We will export our know-how to enhance the histori-cal Illum brand. Our plan is to create a collection of luxury stores, not a chain.”

Baldan did not disclose fi nancial details of the transaction, but La Rinascente will invest 50 million euros, or $65.5 million at current exchange, over the next fi ve years to restructure the store, founded in 1891. Illum, which will maintain its name, is located in the most exclusive shopping area in the heart of Copenhagen, attracting 6.5 million visitors a year, said Baldan, pointing to the latter as one of the rea-sons behind La Rinascente’s choice of that store. The executive said there are plans for additional such ventures in the near future in other major capitals, but “each store must express the best and its distinc-tive character in its own context. La Rinascente will be a guarantee for quality and service.”

“This is a winning strategy. The department store format remains successful wherever there are man-agers capable of innovating and evolving it,” said Armando Branchini, deputy chairman of Milan-based InterCorporate consultancy. “It’s a great op-portunity in Europe, which is a magnet for tourists, attracted by the beauty of the region’s countries and their upscale products.”

Retail analysts said La Rinascente’s move made sense on a variety of levels. “The department store format looks stronger now than it has for the past 20 years. It’s alive and well in a world where retail is

SEE PAGE 8

OFF THE RUNWAYS:

WWD.COM2 WWD monday, march 11, 2013

To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is firsTname_lasTname@fairchildfashion.com, using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.VOLUME 205, NO. 50. MONDAY, MARCH 11, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at condenast@theygsgroup.com, or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

on WWD.CoM

the Briefing Boxin Today’s WWd

Italy’s La Rinascente said Friday it was expanding beyond the country’s borders for the first time in 150 years through the acquisition of Copenhagen-based department store Illum. PAGE 1 Harry Winston and Tiffany & Co. confirmed that they are raising prices in Japan this spring to offset a weakening yen. PAGE 1 Rent the Runway closed on its third round of financing, which was led by Advance Publications Inc., parent company of Condé Nast and Fairchild Fashion Media, raising $24.4 million. PAGE 2 Tandy Brands Accessories Inc. has hired Deloitte Financial Advisory Services LLP as it seeks a way out of a financing bind that has sent its stock on a sharp decline. PAGE 2 Proenza Schouler is putting the focus on e-commerce, and the company will launch a revamped Web site today. PAGE 7 Ann Inc., after reporting net income rose 18.5 percent for 2012, said it expects 2013 to be another strong year. PAGE 7 Christy Turlington Burns, Susan Sarandon and Alexandra Richards were among the 200-plus women joining in the first “March on March 8.” PAGE 7 The owner of Manhattan’s Herald Center is planning to renovate and is looking for a fashion tenant to fill the primary space. PAGE 7 As Time Inc. prepares for its spin-off later this year, executives are moving toward clarifying the leadership structure at the magazine level. PAGE 9 Lillian Cahn, who founded the Coach Leatherware Co. with her husband, Miles, and whose handbags went on to become staples in working women’s wardrobes, died March 4. PAGE 9 John Varvatos and Billy Reid are making the pilgrimage to Austin for this week’s SXSW festival as panelists for the Neighborhood at 2nd Street District, formerly SXSW’s fashion arm Style X. PAGE 11 Pronovias owner and president Alberto Palatchi unveiled the formation of a new design team made up of roughly 60 professionals to be called Atelier Pronovias. PAGE 11

A look from Odylyne’s Los Angeles Fashion Week show. For more, see WWD.com.

FASHION: For coverage of the latest collections from Los Angeles Fashion Week, see WWD.com.

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By Vicki M. Young

Rent the RunwaY closed on its third round of financing, rais-ing $24.4 million.

the round was led by advance Publications inc., the parent company of condé nast and Fairchild Fashion Media, par-ent of wwD, and includes american express and novel tMt Ventures. Previous inves-tors — Bain capital Ventures, highland capital Partners and kleiner

Perkins caufield & Byers — also par-ticipated in the lat-est round. Following the closing of the lat-est round, Rent the Runway thus far has raised an aggregate of $55.4 million.

a c c o r d i n g t o Jennifer hyman, co-founder and chief ex-ecutive officer, “the business is continuing to expand very quick-ly. we are investing in people, marketing and scaling our operation to make sure we are delivering incredible customer experiences. over the next year, we have plans to expand our showrooms.”

the showrooms are physical retail spaces where customers can try on dresses and ac-cessories as well as book appointments with Rent the Runway’s stylists to discuss fit and style needs. it has one so far, at its new York city headquar-ters in the west Village.

hyman said at some point the company will need to decide whether to move out of its new Jersey warehouse and build a larger facility or have multiple distribution centers. a top prior-ity is hiring engineers to improve operations and logistics.

it was a company engineer who had the idea for the firm’s so-cial shopping platform launched in october that enables renters to see outfits on other women with similar height and weight mea-surements, hyman said.

as for investments in logistics and technology, Scott Friend, managing director at Bain capital, said the company has needed continued investment to grow because it is “more expen-sive than other start-ups. Really

good systems and processes help to make the [business operations] less expensive. Rent the Runway builds its core operating systems in-house” rather than buying software off the shelf. Friend ex-plained that expense is required because of the need to tailor the programs to the complexities of the business.

“in [this] business, 100 per-cent of what we send out comes back four days later on purpose.

we have to make it look brand new all over again so we can ship it out again on thursday, know-ing it comes back on Monday. that involves seamstresses and dry cleaning….we’ve learned that certain materials wear and tear better than others. certain lengths of dresses wear and tear better, helping the inventory last longer….this management team hired a guy who ran a dry clean-ing chain to run their warehouse facility. he implemented process-

es and systems. all this takes a lot of capital to build the business the right way [in order to] scale the business,” Friend said.

hyman said at some point an initial public offering is likely, but there’s still more to do to build the brand and platform so it con-tinues to be a “huge marketing engine” for designer brands and retailers.

a c c o r d i n g t o hyman, the firm is re-ally an “experiential marketing engine” for brand vendors and retailers because it allows consumers to learn about designers they’ve never heard about before.

although customers have asked about buy-ing the dresses they rent, so far there are no plans to allow that, requiring them instead to reach out directly to the brand or a retailer for that purchase.

the company plans to expand to new categories this year, al-though she declined to provide details. the firm currently rents designer dresses, jewelry and handbags.

hyman is betting on feed-back from condé nast, american express and novel tMt — each with its own expertise in three different industries — to help her firm improve on its business model and grow the operation.

Tandy Brands Seeks Capital, Appoints Restructuring ChiefBy aRnoLD J. kaRR

tanDY BRanDS accessories inc. has hired Deloitte Financial advisory Services LLP as it seeks a way out of a financing bind that has seen its stock shed about two-thirds of its value in less than a month.

John Little, a Dallas-based principal of Deloitte’s corporate restructuring group, has been brought in as chief restructuring officer as the firm seeks “outside capital…in the near term to so-lidify our balance sheet,” ac-cording to Rod Mcgeachy, presi-dent and chief executive officer of the men’s accessories and gifts marketer.

Dallas-based tandy, which has yet to file its financial results for the second quarter ended Dec. 31, fell out of compliance with the fixed-charge coverage covenant of its credit agreement with its senior lender, wells Fargo, due to a weak perfor-mance in its gifts segment dur-ing the holiday season. Fixed-charge coverage is essentially

the ratio of earnings before inter-est and taxes to interest expense.

“although total gross sales targets were met,” Mcgeachy said, “the profit miss was driven by a highly promotional retail environment, which drove high-er-than-expected sales allow-ances and higher returns of un-sold inventories, both of which reduced our gift net sales in the [second] quarter.”

tandy, which recorded a net loss of $1.3 million on sales of $25.9 million in the first quar-ter, alerted the Securities and exchange commission on Feb. 14 that it was in negotiations with wells Fargo to address the violation but could provide no assurance these negotiations would be successful, making the company vulnerable to the pos-sibility that its “business and fi-nancial position could be mate-rially adversely affected.”

that news sent its stock down 31.1 percent, to $1.04 from $1.51. Shares have since dropped by more than half, hitting a 52-week low of 43 cents on March 6. on Friday they added 3 cents, or

6.5 percent, to close at 49 cents. Market capitalization is currently $3.5 million.

tandy’s $35 million credit facility with wells Fargo was initiated in august 2011 and has been amended five times since. it is secured by “substantially all of our assets and those of our subsidiaries,” according to the company’s annual report filed in September 2012.

among Little’s responsibili-ties as chief restructuring of-ficer will be “evaluating the company’s capital structure al-ternatives and identifying addi-tional sources of financing” and working to improve liquidity and profitability.

the company said Friday that it would file financial results for the second quarter “on or before april 22.” tandy was warned on Feb. 22 that it was at risk of los-ing the listing on the nasdaq global Market because the firm had failed to file quarterly re-sults in a timely manner and, in accordance with nasdaq’s usual practice, given 60 days to submit a plan to regain compliance.

Rent the Runway founders Jennifer Hyman and Jennifer Fleiss.

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exclusive

Rent the Runway Gets $24.4M in Funding

w11a002a.indd 2 3/10/13 2:44 PM03102013144459

Valentino Emanuel Ungaro Louis Vuitton

EliE SaabElie Saab is consistent, and that’s a beautiful thing.

Season after season, he delivers sharp, tailored daytime looks with plenty of red carpet drama for evening. A true master of his craft, his couture skills and sensibili-ties are reflected in this fall 2013 collection. This year, he favored navy and black for daytime with attention-grabbing shapes and cuts. His eveningwear, introducing rich colors and sheer panels along with his trademark beading and embroidered lace, is sure to continue his reign as the go-to designer for Awards season, keeping his name on “best-dressed” lists around the world. Dyed-to-match mink in modern silhouettes provided the perfect luxe toppers to complete his elegant story.

EmanuEl ungaroEmanuel Ungaro’s fall 2013 collection came

courtesy of Fausto Puglisi, who described his first collection for the label as “not romantic…more graphic.” The line-up introduced animal prints and polka dots, asymmetric cuts and visual dualities via linear silhou-ettes with shorter hemlines reminiscent of the late ’80s/early ’90s. Displaying a penchant for theatricality, his monumental fur collars were statement pieces. A demure collarless coat in broadtail and fox worn over a Glen plaid mini-dress will impress even the most sophisticated fashion follower. Mr. Puglisi veered a bit from the traditional Ungaro aesthetic, but to good efect. For a label that has seen a lot of change in the last decade, this may be a great new beginning.

HErmèSBourgeois chic is good. When done by Hermès, it

raises the bar and adds a few surprises. This collection proved Christophe Lemaire’s remarkable capabilities, and lived up to the brand’s hype. It was as discretely elegant as it was luxurious. Mr. Lemaire understands how to work with his assets—some of the industry’s best materials including leathers, exotic skins and furs—applying sharp cuts and precise tailoring to beautiful efect. Hermès is a classic icon; its designs are developed to last the test of time. From double-breasted cashmere pea coats to flight jackets in ostrich to relaxed lamb coats bridging conventional usage, the collection elevated the concept of chic and discrete.

louiS Vuitton Welcome to Hôtel Louis Vuitton! This season’s

runway presentation was as charming as it was impos-ing in its selection. Marc Jacobs and his team are in great form and this collection is sure to generate a big buzz. His new handbags are innovative and exciting, really expanding on the label’s repertoire. Then there are his furs, classic, chic and understated looks with a relaxed, easy elegance. The mood was “Butterfield 8”, yet the medley actually created a fully original vocabu-lary. From two-tone broadtail, fur lined coats, marbleized intarsia mink, exotic skins, and fur combos, this collection had it all. Luxe for luxe-sake is the ticket at Hôtel Louis Vuitton!

miu miu Miu Miu delivered a fun ride with a collection that

was colorful and witty, but also historically driven. Combining Belle Epoque and late ’40s references Miuccia Prada created a line-up of beautifully tailored, romantic looks that were full of optimism. Statement coats and great separates might simply reenergize the concept of Steampunk so popular in the ’80s. The few menswear notes were mainly allocated to the outerwear, where bold broadtail collars adorned coats with an ofcer’s aplomb. Broadtail presented in a deep blue jacket and a rich pink coat proved that pretty and elegant could also be unpredictably modern. This is a collection for the times—one that works on every level.

ValEntino Valentino looked to the Netherlands this season for

its rich portraiture. The Dutch influence guided an austere and serene collection that revisited some of the label’s past creations. The astute choice of lines, materi-als and treatments made for a parade of show-stopping looks that were clean, striking and chic. Pier Paolo Piccioli’s and Maria Grazia Chiuri’s aesthetic may be complicated, even daunting at times, so when an idea works and the execution is delivered as intended, it is a privilege to behold. Black and white mink in an ermine pattern was striking, and when used as a collar on a burgundy mink coat, it had a royal efect. Their white mink embroidery demonstrated their creativity and innovation.

ADVERTISEMENT

What a week it was! Paris delivered an exceptional parade of directional fur designs this season. From marbleized or logo intarsia in mink to shocking candy-colored broadtail, the City of Lights shined beyond expectations. Shearling seemed to be everywhere, giving it the status of go-to fur choice this season, thanks in part to its versatility and creative flexibility. Sleek broadtail and rich mink were adapted beautifully to dresses, skirts, and suits, as well as outerwear. High-tech treatments and manufacturing innovations applied to fox, beaver, Asiatic raccoon, and mink turned them into intricate design allies. Experimentation and modernity were the recurring themes this past week, whether in garment applications or conceptual appropriations, and the result was an exciting and inspirational week for fashion lovers.

The

Runway RepoRT

Miu Miu

Paris // March 11, 2013

LUXUrY rEiMaGiNEDFur Information Council of America 8424 A Santa Monica Blvd., Suite 860

West Hollywood, California 90069 323.782.1700 www.furinsider.com

Elie Saab Hermès

Chanel’s mink head caps had the perfect ’20s vibe. Tiered fox and an Asiatic raccoon collar on a pufer jacket by Sacai defied conventions. The relaxed, sexy attitude of Paul & Joe was perfectly executed in their patchwork fox coat. Diagonal patterns of leather and dyed fox gave a Lie Sang Bong’s coat a positively poncho efect. Pedro Lourenco’s two-tone red mink jacket defined simple, modern elegance.

nEwS & notES

4 WWD MONDAY, MARCH 11, 2013

Proenza Schouler Altuzarra

THE CLASSIC BIKER JACKET IS A STAPLE IN EVERY COOL GIRL’S CLOSET, AND FOR FALL, DESIGNERS UPDATED THE The Motorcycle FALL COLLECTIONS 2013

Rodarte

FOR MORE ON THE TREND, SEE

WWD.com/fashion-news.

WWD.COM5WWD MONDAY, MARCH 11, 2013

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LOOK THROUGH DECONSTRUCTION, FABRICS AND PRINTS. Diaries

Jean Paul Gaultier Viktor & Rolf

Etro

Christopher Kane

Sacai

Fall 2013PARIS COLLECTIONS

6 WWD MONDAY, MARCH 11, 2013

accessories

ACCESSORY DESIGNERS WERE INSPIRED BY EVERYTHING FROM FAIRY TALES TO THE QUEEN OF THE NILE, SENDING OUT SHOES,

BAGS AND JEWELRY SURE TO SPICE UP ANY WARDROBE.

▼ Swarovski creative director Nathalie Colin’s bejeweled pieces were inspired by a journey along the Silk Road from China to Siberia,

India and Venice. The brand also showed pieces from a first-time collaboration with

Shourouk Rhaiem of Shourouk.

▲ Enthralled by Stacey Schiff ’s book “Cleopatra: A Life,” Eddie Borgo celebrated all things Egyptian, including a black onyx scarab motif and jade and onyx pieces reminiscent of the ancient queen’s elaborate headpieces.

▼

Christian Louboutin expanded on the popular Pigalle 120 pump by raising

the vamp and slenderizing and lifting the heel for

a more secure fit.

▲ Creative director Christina Zeller of Delvaux expanded the Brillant family of bags to include clutch and double-strap versions along with one made from white astrakhan.

▲ Longchamp’s creative director Sophie Delafontaine was inspired by interior designers like David Hicks for this graphic poppy print.

▲ Pierre Hardy’s signature squares were still in force, but the designer also explored the use of a “curvy silhouette that was still graphic” as shown in these pink suede peep-toe pumps.

▼ Cesare Paciotti designer Marco Calcinaro’s lineup of sexy shoes packed a sophisticated punch as seen in this suede pump with sword hardware detail.

▲ Iridescent leather and feminine embroidery worked well together in these open bootie sandals from Sophia Webster.

Bigger is better for Tom Binns, who had royalty on his mind with this collection

of oversize gems.

▲ Known for collections full of whimsy, Charlotte Olympia explored the world of fairy tales depicting book spines on shoes and Rapunzel on a sandal.

▲ Chanel hat designer Laetitia Crahay of Maison Michel perfected the female fedora with a wider brim and white paint-splattered feathers.

▼ Nicholas

Kirkwood used a handmade leather rose to accent a group of patent leather and suede booties with a mod feel.

Inspired by the glamorous poolside culture of the Thirties and Forties,

Aurélie Bidermann re-created ivory using traditional Bakelite techniques for pieces such as this tusk necklace.

▼

The graffitied walls of New York subways in the Eighties were the jumping-off point for Brit shoemaker Rupert Sanderson’s funky booties.

▼

Alessandra Lanvin of Aperlai used a bone motif for graphic and colorful shoes.

FOR MORE, SEE

WWD.com/accessories-news.

▲ Whether bought singularly or as a group, Marie-Hélène de Taillac’s rings in favorites like pink tourmaline, paraiba tourmaline and blue sapphire came with a special box to hold her creations.

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WWD.COM7WWD monday, march 11, 2013

By DaviD Moin

ann inc., after reporting net income rose 18.5 percent for 2012, said it expects 2013 to be another strong year.

Greater investments in its e-commerce business, international shipping and mo-mentum with ongoing ann Taylor remod-els to a smaller, more productive format are seen fueling gains in 2013.

The company also plans to focus on “tar-geted” promotions while staging fewer store-wide ones, and expand opening price points at ann Taylor. For spring, Loft’s assortments have been reset with more neutrals and blacks after customers voted thumbs down on the colorful holiday assortment.

For the year ended Feb. 2, ann earned $102.6 million compared with $86.6 million in 2011, and shares on a diluted basis rose to $2.10 from $1.64. The company had $167 million in cash at the end of the year and no debt. Sales were $2.4 billion, compared with $2.2 billion, while comparable-store sales rose 3.3 percent. The ann Taylor di-vision totaled $945.2 million in sales ver-sus $907.9 million in fiscal 2011. The Loft division reached $1.43 billion in sales last year, compared with $1.3 billion in 2011.

Fourth-quarter profits rose to $2.37 mil-lion, or 5 cents a diluted share, from $2.18 million, or 4 cents. Total sales were $607.7 million, compared with $566.7 million in the 2011 quarter. ann Taylor totaled $255 million in sales last quarter compared with $237.4 million in the year-ago quar-ter. Loft’s sales came to $352.7 million in the fourth quarter of 2012, compared with $329.3 million in the year-ago quarter. Total company comps decreased 0.7 per-cent last quarter.

Despite concerns about payroll tax increases impacting consumer spend-ing, officials remained bullish. “We have absolutely been noticing she has less dis-posable income. However, we are expect-ing positive comps in every quarter of the year,” Kay Krill, president and chief exec-utive officer, said during Friday’s confer-

ence call on the results. For the first quarter of fiscal year 2013,

the company projects sales of $600 million, with comparable-store sales up in the low single digits. For the full year, the company projects sales of $2.57 billion, with comps in the mid-single digits.

Krill said 2012 marked the third consec-utive year of positive comp sales and the fourth consecutive year of operating profit expansion, but the year wasn’t perfect due to Hurricane Sandy and overinvestments in color, leading to steep clearances in the fourth quarter. “importantly, we’ve entered the spring season with clean, fresh inven-tories for both brands,” Krill said.

Last quarter, ann Taylor comparable-store sales rose 1.4 percent, which in-cludes a 5 percent rise at ann Taylor and a 6.8 percent decline at the ann Taylor Factory channel. at Loft, comps fell 2.1 percent, reflecting a decline of 1.2 percent at Loft and a decrease of 7.1 percent at Loft outlets.

Last year’s traffic at ann Taylor and Loft outlets was “choppy” and the com-pany did pull back on some inventory but will put more units and costs into the out-lets this year to drive incremental growth. “We expect that channel to be a significant profit driver for 2013 and beyond.”

on Friday the company unveiled inter-national shipping for anntaylor.com and loft.com. “We are pleased that we can now begin to meet the previously underserved demand for our brands from internation-al visitors to our e-commerce Web sites,” Krill said. “Selling internationally through e-commerce will provide us with further insights to gauge future growth opportuni-ties outside of the U.S.”

ann is shipping to canada, australia, the U.K., Mexico, Japan and other coun-tries in South america, Europe, the Middle East and asia. ann Taylor and Loft are offering free shipping on international orders over $100 until March 17. in canada the first three stores opened in Toronto last fall, and additional stores in the mar-ket are being sought.

By RacHEL STRUGaTz

nEW YoRK — Proenza Schouler is putting the focus on e-commerce, and the company will launch a revamped Web site today.

already the brand’s top door in terms of volume, according to cofound-ers and designers Jack Mccollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the two are priming the new site to serve as a digi-tal global flagship for the company.

overall, e-commerce represents 15 percent of the business, and sales on Proenza Schouler’s digital flag-ship doubled from 2011 to 2012. The designers declined to reveal overall sales volume.

The site saw more than one mil-lion visits last year — a 38 percent in-crease from 2011 — and although 38 percent of the traffic is from the U.S., the majority is from other countries, including canada, the U.K., France, italy, Germany, Taiwan, Singapore, Thailand, china, Hong Kong and South Korea. in addition to shipping worldwide, the site is compatible

across desktop and mobile devices — a response to a 500 percent increase in mobile usage in 2012 alone.

a collaborative effort between Wednesday agency and art direc-tor Peter Miles and built by acadaca new York, the new site will sell ac-cessories (more than 300 products) and select runway pieces from the fall collection. Ready-to-wear will roll out later this year, according to Mccollough and Hernandez.

“We have aggressive targets. We’re hoping to double [online business again] in 2013 and that the new Web site will help us get to that goal,” Mccollough said.

Hernandez added: “[now] that we have actual stores, we have mer-chandise. Before we didn’t own our own stock, but because we’re expand-ing our retail presence, we can filter stock through e-commerce.”

The brand has also invested in digital advertising for the first time, including display campaigns that will hit Style.com, nymag.com and nytimes.com March 18, and search and affiliate marketing programs.

Proenza Schouler Revamps Site

U.N. March Draws Over 200

Ann Bullish on Year Ahead

A rendering of Proenza Schouler’s new site.

By RoSEMaRY FEiTELBERG

nEW YoRK — Undeterred by Friday’s snowstorm, christy Turlington Burns, Susan Sarandon and alexandra Richards were among the 200-plus women who joined U.n. Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon’s wife, Ban Soon-taek, in the first “March on March 8.”

after the half-mile walk from the United nations to Dag Hammarskjöld Plaza, support-ers huddled under umbrellas as they listened to speakers. Even the Secretary-General made a surprise appearance on stage. The crowd also cheered when Sarandon read a transcript of a video message from Malala Yousafzai, the Pakistani school-girl activist who nearly died after being shot by the Taliban for her belief that girls deserve the right to an education.

Standing beside a color por-trait of Yousafzai, Sarandon read, “We all need to fight for our own rights, not only girls’ but also boys’. They are work-ing day and night. They don’t go to school. So if you don’t fight for our rights, we won’t get our rights. We won’t see the day where we all go to school.”

Held on international Women’s Day and hosted by

U.n. Women for Peace, several speakers mentioned such stark statistics as the fact that be-tween 100 million and 140 mil-lion women suffer from genital mutilation.

Soon-taek told the march-ers, “You are making history. Every woman and girl has the right to live free from violence and threats. it may seem impos-sible to end all attacks on women and girls, but when i look at you i know it is possible. This is a movement whose time has come.”

Before the march, Burns said of iWD, “This is one of the rare events where the whole world comes together. We’re one of the rare countries that doesn’t do more of a celebra-tion. i wish more people would be part of this [march], but hopefully they will.”

During her remarks, “Gossip Girl” actress Kelly Rutherford cried openly. in a Fire + ice fur-trimmed jacket, Richards was jittery before her speech. “i swim with sharks. i do cliff-jumping and every-thing, but this is more nerve-wracking. it’s an important cause, so i can’t mess this up,” she said.

“High School Musical” actress-

turned-U.n. Youth champion Monique coleman described how a six-month tour of 24 countries, which included a stay at Kenya’s Kakuma refu-gee camp, changed her views. “after doing all that travel, there was no way i could go back to L.a. i still have the cute shoes, but that’s about it. My soul couldn’t go back to a place where it all comes down to so-what-are-you-working-on. There are other things that are important,” she said.

af terward, the U.n. Secretary-General told WWD that he was “truly impressed and encouraged by such a huge level of support” among the fe-male leaders, but he also high-lighted the need to reach more male leaders to curb violence against women. “The U.n. is very committed to ending vio-lence against women,” he said.

By SHaRon EDELSon

nEW YoRK — a bright-er day may be dawning for Herald center, the 10-story, 250,000-square-foot retail and office property located at the southwest corner of 34th Street and Broadway. JEMB Real Estate, which owns Herald center, is planning to renovate the building and is looking for a fashion tenant to fill the pri-mary space.

The real estate firm, which acquired Herald center from Philippine president Ferdinand Marcos and his wife, imelda, in 1989, recon-ceived the property as a big-box vertical mall populated by tenants such as Toys ‘R’ Us, Daffy’s and Payless Shoes. The new York State Department of Motor vehicles also has offices in the building.

JEMB plans to reclad the building’s exterior to create a brighter property. The real estate firm recently signed a lease with a college for 100,000 square feet of space that will allow it to reconfigure tenan-cies to make three floors of con-tiguous retail space available, real estate sources said.

“JEMB is looking for a fash-ion retailer, not nordstrom Rack or Loehmann’s,” said one source. “They’re looking

for a full-priced retailer. They would try to make a play for Topshop.”

Herald center has a long retail history, not all of it stellar. The property in the early Eighties was financed by the Marcoses, built on the site of what once was Saks Fifth avenue and later E. J. Korvette. The Marcoses had luxury in mind for Herald center with early tenants such as charles Jourdan, ann Taylor, alfred Dunhill and Brookstone. But they didn’t last in the location.

Daff y ’s operated a 97,000-square-foot unit at Herald Square. When the off-price retailer filed for bank-ruptcy protection last year, JEMB entered into an agree-ment to acquire Daffy’s lease-hold interests, some real estate and some intellectual property. JEMB agreed to buy out Daffy’s from its location in its Herald center property for $10 million and hired cBRE Group to mar-ket the space.

Herald center is located on one of the most heav-ily trafficked retail corners in Manhattan. Macy’s Herald Square is directly opposite Herald center, and Manhattan Mall is one block to the south, with tenants such as J.c. Penney, Express, victoria’s Secret and Sunglass Hut.

Makeover for Herald Center

Over 200 women joined the first “March on March 8.”

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still struggling,” said George Wallace, chief executive of MHE, the European retail consultancy. “Since the crash, the department store format has held up a lot better than other retail, where the bankruptcies have been with chains or specialty stores. The department store format as a ‘house of brands’ — with or without [private label] brands — has proven resilient.”

Wallace added that department store chains also tend to be in bigger towns and metropolitan centers, which are gen-erally doing better than the provinces in terms of sales and footfall.

He described Illum as “the Harrods of Copenhagen,” located in “a beauti-ful building with two atria. It’s a love-ly building in need of strategic mer-chandising. That a company like La Rinascente would buy it makes sense to me. Plus, Copenhagen gets a lot of international visitors.”

He added that going forward, any prestigious department store that has one-off features would be attractive, and named Vroom & Dreesmann in the Netherlands as a possible candidate. On the flip side, he said the smaller stores have everything to gain from having re-tail-focused owners. “The economics of a one-off store that does not have a million square feet of selling space like Harrods can be difficult because you need buyers for each department. If you are smallish, it’s hard to make money from that sort of formula,” said Wallace.

Nick Hood, head of external affairs at Company Watch, the London-based firm that analyzes the financial health of busi-nesses, said there are a variety of factors

at play with regard to retail acquisi-tions right now. “Struggling sectors attract canny bidders. And the per-ception right now is that there are opportunities out there and deals to be done because ‘you won’t see pric-es like this again.’ It’s the old Warren Buffett strategy.”

At the same time, he said, depart-ment stores are attractive prospects. “The U.K. department stores had a great Christmas. They are the shop-ping malls of town centers, and many of them use their space in an innova-tive way,” he said.

To wit, earlier this week the John Lewis Partnership, which owns the Waitrose, John Lewis and Peter Jones chains, handed each member of its full-time staff a record-breaking bonus of nine weeks’ pay, or an aver-age of 4,000 pounds, or $6,000, a per-son. The store’s profits rose 16 percent in the 2012-13 fiscal year on the back of strong sales at all of the stores.

Hood said that department store management is as much a property play as a retail one. “The better your concessions do, the better you do. The rental base is turnover linked. And the market perception is that if you can run one department store well, you can run all of them well.” Of the stores that could make good candidates for a sale, he named the publicly quoted British chain Debenhams, which is carry-ing a high debt load and has more than 100 stores in the U.K. and abroad.

Also currently up for grabs is a 70 per-cent stake in French department store Printemps. Its owner, Deutsche Bank’s real estate asset management division,

RREEF, which had planned to sell its stake by 2014 at the latest, has entered into exclusive negotiations with uniden-tified Qatari investors and the Borletti Group, run by former La Rinascente chairman Maurizio Borletti, which owns the other 30 percent and has a priority

claim to the stake.The battle heated up and spurred

fierce reactions in the French media when Galeries Lafayette ceo Philippe Houzé said last month that he would “not throw in the towel.” Houzé’s pre-vious offer to acquire RREEF’s stake for 1.8 billion euros, or $ 2.38 billion at current exchange, was rejected late last year.

In his latest counterbid, Houzé pro-posed to the Qataris “to join forces” in an attempt “to combine Qatar’s profes-sionalism in real estate with our know-how of managing large stores,” as he declared.

Houzé is said to be thinking big. On his mind is a project that would turn the Boulevard Haussmann, home to both Printemps and Galeries Lafayette, into a “tourist zone,” allowing shops to stay open on Sundays.

But since the two depart-ment store chains — if com-bined —would create a re-tail powerhouse with annual sales of 6.5 billion euros, or $8.61 billion, it is unlikely that France’s competition au-thorities would accept such a monopoly position.

Printemps belonged previ-ously to French conglomerate PPR, which sold the chain to RREEF and Borletti Group for $1.33 billion in 2006.

Covering more than 226,800 square feet, Illum targets the medium/high-end market and sells a selection of merchan-dise running from fashion and beauty to home and design by around 120 Scandinavian and international brands. “We share a similar story, this is a histori-cal store in a superb location, and we will integrate the brand mix,” said Baldan, underscoring the significant growth potential. At the end of the restructuring, 400 jobs will be created, he said. La Rinascente closed 2012 with sales of 462 million euros, or

$591.3 million at average exchange, up 6 percent compared with 2011. Illum has sales volumes of around 93 million euros, or $119 million.

La Rinascente’s goal is to capi-talize on the value of the historic store by repositioning the brand through an upscale restructur-ing and restyling and upgrading the goods carried, similar to what the Italian store has been doing over the past few years. Chairman Sudhitham Chirathivat said that like La Rinascente, Illum “is anoth-er store with a strong tradition and excellent potential for growth.” The goal is to invest in Illum’s “infra-structure and in people to provide best products and services,” mak-ing it “the most prestigious depart-ment store” in Copenhagen.

The acquisition is in line with strategies mapped out by La Rinascente’s new owner, Thailand-based Central Retail Corp., which took control of the Italian depart-ment store chain in May 2011 with plans to expand globally. Established in 1947, CRC is a sub-sidiary of the Central Group of Companies, one of Thailand’s largest conglomerates with op-erations in restaurants, hospital-ity, real estate and retail. With sales of more than $4.5 billion,

CRC’s main retail formats include de-partment stores, supermarkets and specialty stores under the Central, Robinson, ZEN, La Rinascente, Food Hall, Tops, FamilyMart, Power Buy, B2S, Supersports, HomeWorks, OfficeMate and Thai Watsadu store brands. At the end of December last year, CRC operated a total of 1,404 stores worldwide.

La Rinascente is also investing 200 million euros, or $260.5 million at cur-rent exchange, in the restructuring of its unit in a building directly owned in Rome’s Via del Tritone and expect-ed to open in the spring or summer of 2015. This year the Milan unit in Piazza Duomo, the chain’s jewel in the crown, will complete its renovation plan initi-ated in 2006.

� —�with�contributions�from�Paulina�szmydke,�Paris

8 WWD monday, march 11, 2013

2.5x7 (left)

La Rinascente to Acquire Illum Department Stores{Continued from page one}

The Illum store in Copenhagen.

La Rinascente is expanding its borders.

w11a008a;6.indd 8 3/8/13 6:38 PM03082013183912

The Ultimate Resource from the Industry’s Source

ISSUE DATE: APRIL 15 CLOSING: MARCH 25For more information on advertising, contact Pamela Firestone atpamela_fi restone@fairchildfashion.com // 212.630.3935

NEXT ISSUE

APRIL 2013

WWD.COM

By LISA LOCKWOOD

LILLIAN CAHN, who founded the Coach Leatherware Co. with her husband, Miles, and whose handbags went on to become staples in working women’s wardrobes, died March 4 in Manhattan. She was 89.

Cahn was born in the town of Sátoraljaújhely, in present day Hungary. Her father emigrated to the U.S. in 1928 and settled in Wilkes-Barre, Pa., where she grew up. She later moved to Manhattan to study acting, where she met her husband.

Coach began as a family-run workshop in a Manhattan loft in 1941. The company started with six leatherworkers who made men’s leather goods. Five years later, the Cahns joined the contractor, then known as Gail Leather Products. The Cahns were owners of a leather handbag manufactur-ing business and were knowledgeable about the leather business. In 1961, the Cahns bought out the factory’s owners in a leveraged buyout.

At Lillian’s suggestion, the Cahns start-

ed making women’s handbags, with leath-er used to make baseball gloves. Through excessive wear and abrasion, the leather in the glove became soft and supple. Under the brand name Coach, the sturdy cowhide bags were an immediate hit and earned a reputation for lasting forever. In 1961, the Cahns hired sportswear pioneer Bonnie Cashin to design Coach handbags. She revolutionized the product’s design, making handbags with side pockets, coin purses and brighter colors.

Lillian Cahn, sounding like any fash-ion maven lusting after a must-have item, confessed to WWD in 2000 that she had an ulterior motive for hiring Cashin. “I was always dreaming after Bonnie’s clothes in the Town & Country shop at Lord & Taylor,” she said. “I couldn’t af-ford them, but I loved them. When we de-cided we were going to launch a women’s collection, I called her right away!”

Part of Cahn’s role at Coach was to develop relationships with the media and high-profile women, who frequently wore the handbags, as well as offer the female point of view when it came to de-sign. She also raised Coach’s profile by

aligning the company with philanthropic projects such as the New York Public Library and the Food Bank for New York City. In July 1985, the Cahns struck a deal to sell Coach Leatherware to Sara Lee Corp. for a reported $30 million. The brand became part of Sara Lee’s Hanes Group. Lew Frankfort, current chairman and chief executive officer of Coach Inc., couldn’t be reached for comment Sunday.

In an interview with WWD in 1985, Miles Cahn said he and his wife decided to sell the business to devote more time to their growing goat farm and cheese production business called Coach Farm in Gallatinville, N.Y., which they began in 1983. According to the Coach Farm Web site, the farm supplies the restau-rants of Mario Batali (who is married to the Cahns’ daughter, Susan), Daniel Boulud, Peter X. Kelly and Jean-Georges Vongerichten, among others. The Cahns sold the farm five years ago.

Besides her husband and daugh-ter, Susan, Cahn is survived by another daughter, Julie; a son, David; a sister, Judy Miller; a brother, Lou Lenart, and five grandchildren.

months as Shinzo Abe, the newly elected Japanese prime minister, has vowed to attack the country’s long-term deflation trend. The cur-rency has shed more than 12 percent of its value against the dollar and the euro since early December.

Still, Hiroshi Onishi, president and chief executive officer of Isetan Mitsukoshi Holdings Ltd., down-played the immediate impact of cur-rency on luxury pricing in Japan.

“Even when the yen was stronger, not all of the prices were [lowered]. I think luxury brands set their prices based on the cost of [materials], so we still haven’t seen any effect of ris-ing prices,” Onishi said. “But there is a possibility that we may see that hap-pening from this autumn.”

Regardless of potential price in-creases, Japan remains an intensely competitive retail market. Case in point: Isetan’s flagship in Shinjuku unveiled Wednesday, the last of its ongoing renovations in a bid to reach new customers.

More than just a redesign, the Isetan renovation project completely changed the layout of the store, orga-nizing each department by a particu-lar type of customer, rather than by the type of product on offer. Isetan has been refurbishing and expand-ing different areas of the store for several months now. One of these

new areas on the second floor, which aims to attract women in their late teens to mid-30s, includes a large section designed for the “urban mother” and her various lifestyle needs. There is also a small gift sec-tion and florist.

Also on the second floor is a new department called Re-Style Tokyo, which includes offerings by many Tokyo-based brands, such as Limi Feu, Mint Designs, Theatre Products, Tsumori Chisato and Tricot Comme des Garçons. International brands with a similar customer base, includ-ing Vanessa Bruno, Paul & Joe, A.P.C. and Vivienne Westwood Red Label, round out the selection.

“We have had an edited section called Re-Style [for some time now], where we introduce new designers, both Japanese and international. This time, we made a section for Japanese designers on the second floor, so some of the designers that used to be on the fourth floor were moved down to the second floor, and we also increased the number [of Japanese designers],” said Onishi.

On yet another side of Isetan Shinjuku’s second floor is an area dedicated to edgier fashion brands from both Japan and abroad. These include Hysteric Glamour, G.V.G.V., Rag & Bone and Isabel Marant. The section includes the women’s denim bar, with jeans from a wide variety of labels. The center of the floor around the escalator wells includes several spaces for promotions or short-term shops-in-shop. Currently on offer in one of these spaces is the latest collection by local brand Jenny Fax, which shows during Tokyo Fashion Week and takes in-spiration from anime and manga.

9WWD MONDAY, MARCH 11, 2013

Brands Raise Japan Prices

{Continued from page one}

By ARNOLD J. KARR

BIG RETAILERS ARE planning big strides in sustainability.

That’s the conclusion of the 2013 Retail Sustainability Report released Thursday by the Retail Industry Leaders Association and cosponsored by the sus-tainability practice of Ernst & Young.

“All of the trends are upward,” noted Adam Siegel, RILA’s vice president of sustainability and retail operations. “Everyone is projecting that they’re going to be working on far more in the next few years than they are today. They’re already heavily involved in man-agement of waste and recycling and en-ergy usage.”

Among the sustainability executives surveyed, 97 percent are already working on waste and recycling in their facilities, meaning stores, headquarters and distri-bution centers, and that number is ex-pected to remain at that level two years from now. Similarly, 94 percent are act-ing on energy usage, a number expected to inch up to 97 percent.

However, greenhouse gas emissions

and water usage are currently under the microscope at 68 and 55 percent, respec-tively, figures expected to rise to 87 per-cent and 84 percent by 2015.

Siegel noted that an issue barely on the radar of most sustainability officials — end-of-life disposal of products — is creeping into view. Less than half of the respondents — 48 percent — are address-ing it now, but more than four in five — 81 percent — expect to be looking into it two years from now.

“I’ve already begun to see the cusp of that trend,” Siegel told WWD. “Some stores are taking back products, making arrangements for customers to give or even sell products back after the prod-uct’s life is over or helping small com-panies develop businesses in this area.”

The survey revealed relatively low levels of involvement in some of the implications of stores utilizing global supply chains, with signs of growing awareness in light of tragedies like the Tazreen fire that killed 111 workers in Bangladesh on Nov. 24.

The “manufacturing impacts” of their products were already being addressed by 52 percent of retail officials included

in the survey, a number seen growing to 68 percent in the next two years. Factory labor conditions are on the agenda of 48 percent of officials, but 65 percent ex-pect to act on them by 2015, and sourc-ing locations, also addressed by 48 per-cent now, will grow to 77 percent in that time frame.

“Sustainability is a business im-perative,” said Craig Coulter of Ernst & Young’s sustainability practice. “This report demonstrates that companies are developing the operational strategies and the systems and infrastructures — personnel, metrics, goals, tracking sys-tems, reporting, etc. — to effectively man-age and implement sustainability.”

It also demonstrates a determination to “do well by doing good.” Although they acknowledge the importance of goodwill in their efforts to adapt more sustainable practices in their facilities and their products, about a quarter ex-pect financial payback on sustainability initiatives in two to three years, versus about 22 percent who expect it in be-tween one and two years and about 15 percent who put the return horizon at three to five years.

RILA, whose members include many of the largest U.S.-based mass merchants, issued a white paper on transportation sustainability in January.

RILA Tracks Sustainability Strides

JOINING TIME: A successor for departing chief executive Laura Lang is months away, but as Time Inc. prepares for its spin-off later this year, executives are moving toward clarifying the leadership structure at the magazine level.

On Friday, Time magazine finally got its own vice president, sales, Moritz Loew, a former Huffington Post ad sales chief.

Last October, long before the dance with Meredith Corp. and the idea of a spin-off was given serious consideration, Time Inc. was in flux, with a high-profile departure and declines in advertising.

The worldwide publisher of Time magazine and, before that, the publisher of the Sports Illustrated group, Kim Kelleher, a rock star at the company, had eloped to run a blog network, Say Media.

So, Time Inc. shuffled around publishers among titles and restructured its sales force.

Instead of a dedicated brand publisher, it appointed a group publisher in charge of several brands — ad sales and marketing at the news and business titles, for instance, are now led by Jed Hartman — and each individual

title got its own vice president, sales. Brendan Ripp, the then-publisher of

Money and a former publisher of Time, was seen as a natural Kelleher successor. But instead he was handed the reins of Fortune, where he’s now experimenting with a new advertising program that has Fortune editorial staff create original content for advertisers. In November, Tony Haskel, an executive sales director at Fortune, got Ripp’s old job at Money.

But though Hartman had been selling Time as group publisher, the flagship title floundered on the traditional advertising front without its own dedicated salesman — vice president in Time-speak — for eight months.

Reflecting industry-wide trends, the weekly finished 2012 down double digits, 12.27 percent to 1,202 ad pages, from 1,370 last year. Money, a monthly, and Fortune, a biweekly, saw smaller declines, 6.4 and 5.3 percent, respectively. Despite sometimes eye-catching covers, newsstand at the newsweekly plummeted 23 percent, while overall circulation dipped 0.5 percent. Lang’s lone legacy may be putting Time Inc. on Apple’s newsstand, but that didn’t happen until last June, too late to help Time’s circulation numbers.

To turn the weekly around, Hartman has hired Loew, a veteran of the tech

world, a move that underscores the pressure on Time Inc. to beef up digital sales as print advertising and circulation continues to dip and the company gets ready to be spun off into a publicly traded entity that’ll be under regular scrutiny from Wall Street. It’s Loew’s digital experience that Hartman highlighted in his message to staff.

“Time continues to aggressively expand its digital chops, and it was very important to find someone with an exceptional digital IQ,” Hartman wrote. “[Loew] is a true digital native.”

Loew is best known for his short tenure at the Huffington Post, where he was let go for not disclosing a DWI charge from 2003 that resulted in an outstanding arrest warrant in his name for not appearing in court. At the time, Loew said the charge had been resolved but admitted he should have been up front about his past. AOL said in statements his hiring did not meet the company’s standards.

Loew started his career at Microsoft and later worked in digital sales at NBC and MSNBC.

With Loew’s appointment, only the ceo seat remains up for grabs as Time Inc. heads toward to its spin-off.

Lang, Time Inc. said, will stay on in her post until a successor is found. — ERIK MAZA

MEMO PAD

12%YEN’S LOSS OF VALUE

VERSUS DOLLAR AND EURO SINCE DECEMBER.

OBITUARY

Lillian Cahn, Cofounder of Coach, Dies at 89

“The Impossible Collection of Jewelry: The 100 Most Important Jewels of the Twentieth Century” by Vivienne Becker (Assouline). From the iconic enamel and colored stone Maltese cross cuffs that Fulco di Verdura designed for Coco Chanel in the Thirties to Barbara Hutton’s 1947 platinum, diamond and emerald necklace/tiara from Cartier to Jean Schlumberger’s gold, yellow beryl, amethyst and ruby unicorn for Tiffany & Co. in the Fifties and a 1975 Cartier pavé emerald, yellow diamond and gold crocodile necklace that belonged to Mexican film star Maria Félix, expert Vivienne Becker assembles an idiosyncratic yet authoritative fantasy group of fine jewelry pieces.

“World Tour: Vintage Hotel Labels From the Collection of Gaston-Louis Vuitton” by Francisca Mattéoli (Abrams). Gaston-Louis was the grandson of Louis Vuitton, the founder of the house of Vuitton, and the son of Georges — who created the Vuitton monogram. Gaston-Louis went to work for the family firm at 14, and this group of labels was just one of his collections. “What do we find on old luggage?” he asked in 1920. “We find traces of the means of transport used,

the journeys undertaken, the places visited, all of this marked on old papers and hotel labels. We will follow these, and with them, we will tour the world, not in 80 days like Phileas Fogg, but much faster still.” Reproductions of other pieces of vintage travel ephemera — postcards — are inserted into the book.

“William Klein: ABC” by William Klein with an essay by David Campany (Abrams). At 84, William Klein, who, for the most part, has been based in Paris since 1947, is arguably both the world’s greatest living photojournalist and its greatest living

fashion photographer. His credits as a satiric filmmaker aren’t too shabby, either — including, as they do, “Qui êtes-vous, Polly Maggoo?”

(1967) and “Mr. Freedom” (1968). Klein will be appearing in Manhattan at the Howard Greenberg Gallery on March 14th and 16th. His “Paintings, Etc.” show will be running at the gallery through April 27. Campany writes of the photographer’s work: “He won his first camera in a poker game. Every image since has been a little pokerish: street-wise, bluffing, anticipating, intuitive and spontaneous, too: The last thing you want in poker or art is formula.”

“Designing in Ivory and White: Gowns From the Inside Out” by Suzanne Perron with photographs by Jason Cohen and Brian Baiamonte (Louisiana State University Press). Perron, a New Orleans-based designer for weddings and Mardi Gras royalty, formerly worked at Vera Wang in New York, and now designs for traditional brides and krewes in her hometown, among the latter the Olympians, the Achaeans and the storied Rex. In addition to writing about the frocks of 15 of her clients, in the Wang tradition, Perron created her own wedding dress and describes it in the book.

“Indigo: The Color That Changed the World” by Catherine Legrand (Thames & Hudson). Legrand, who owns an ethnic clothing boutique in the Marais district of Paris, writes with enthusiasm about the history of this shade and its evolution from woad to universal dye for workers’ garments — in the American West, of

course, denim. The organic material indigo was first brought back by Marco Polo, who discovered the trade routes to the Far East. Legrand visited the indigo dyers of Yunnan, Guangxi, Hunan and Guizhou in China and gives definitions for the symbols on Chinese textiles, among other arcana related to the color, which also has a rich history among ethnic minorities in India, Vietnam and Laos.

“The Polaroid Book: Selections From the Polaroid Collections of Photography” edited by Steve Crist with an essay by Barbara Hitchcock, 45th anniversary edition (Taschen). Andy Warhol, Deborah Turbeville, William Wegman, Robert Mapplethorpe, Sarah Moon and Mary Ellen Mark are among the photographers whose work is represented here. Hitchcock describes the protean Edwin Land, the inventor of the Polaroid camera, and his early collaboration with the great landscape photographer Ansel Adams to form a basis for the collections.

10 WWD monday, march 11, 2013

TAILORED CLOTHING can transform a man: Just ask Garrett Hedlund, who donned a custom-made suit to front Yves Saint Laurent’s La Nuit de L’Homme fragrance.

“It’s like a whole other role, something I haven’t explored [before]. I don’t even think I wore a suit in any film I’ve done before,” the “Troy” and “Tron: Legacy” actor says. “From the moment I put it on, I was just like: Here is the beginning of something wonderful and new.”

Yves Saint Laurent Beauté, which is part of L’Oréal, approached him last fall about the project.

“What I think intrigued me was when they said the concept of the story,” explains the 29-year-old, sitting in a spacious suite at the hotel Le Meurice in Paris during fashion week. “It seemed much more like a role than standing there in a suit. With the ad, in terms of how they wanted to present it, was to be very kind of ‘Eyes Wide Shut.’ This sort of dark, mysterious man arrives at this event and it’s very ambiguous; you don’t know what his intentions are. And I thought it was very interesting.”

Hedlund, who attended the Saint Laurent fashion show with Kirsten Dunst at his side earlier this week, admitted he’s “not the biggest fashionista,” describing himself as “more a jeans and T-shirt kind of guy. [But] I just knew that anytime I’d mention YSL

to anybody — especially females — they consider it the most respected, the most iconic brand — almost to a royal extent,” he said.

The actor is intrigued by fragrance’s ability to evoke memories. Among his were his father and grandfather wearing Old Spice.

Hedlund shot the YSL campaign in Paris last December — with Paul Gore for the video and Tom Munro for the print ad — and it was his first time in the French capital.

“It was great. We shot on the inside and also on the rooftop of the Natural History Museum,” he recalls. “If you were to experience Paris for the first time, I think I really lucked out.”

Hedlund walked around the city some and went to the Eiffel Tower, which he got to show his father through Skype. But mostly the time was spent on location.

“It was quick, and we shot at night — we were shooting from 8 p.m. to like 8 in the morning, so it wasn’t easy really to see so much,” he says.

The Hedlund ad for the scent, which first hit the market in early 2009 and was fronted by actor Vincent Cassel, will come out in Spain, Italy and Germany in March; France and the U.K. in May; the U.S. in June, and

elsewhere in Europe in the second half of this year.

Hedlund has several films in the can, including the Coen brothers’ “Inside Llewyn Davis,” which will be released this year. “I’m very proud of that,” says Hedlund.

He also finished “Lullaby” with Amy Adams, Terrence Howard and Jessica Brown Findlay. He plays a son who returns home to find his father would be taken off of life support the next day. “It was a wonderful cast, a wonderful story, a wonderful experience,” says Hedlund.

A third “Tron” film is also a possibility.

Hedlund says there are plenty of types of roles he’d like to try.

“My dad always wants me to be in a western, so he can be involved,” he says. “There are so many. If you think of the

genres — you know, when a western comes out, four other westerns come out. A war film comes out, and four other war films come out. You know, I haven’t been involved in any of those.

“There is plenty I would love to do — so we’ll see. I’m young, though,” adds Hedlund. — Jennifer Weil

Book Smart

Heading Homme

March’s photo and fashion books cover a range of themes, including the color indigo, luggage labels and the greatest fine jewelry of the past century. — Lorna Koski

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TEXAS BOUND: Like all diehard music fans, John Varvatos and Billy Reid are making the pilgrimage to Austin for this week’s SXSW festival. The designers are among fashion and media panelists for the Neighborhood at 2nd Street District, formerly SXSW’s fashion arm Style X. Newly independent from the main festival, the four-day fashion event also presents emerging and sustainable clothing and accessory brands at pop-up shops.

Neighborhood cofounder Joah Spearman attributed breaking away from SXSW to the need for a more stylish venue than the convention center, where it was previously held, and for expanding from two to four days since interactive and editorial attendees depart before the weekend. This year’s dates fall on Monday through Thursday to capture online and social media outlets as well, including panelists from Refinery 29 and StyleCaster.

“We’re going for industry but being democratic, too, by making it complimentary to everyone,” said Spearman, who also secured executives from Michael Kors Holdings Ltd. and Cole Haan.

Feeling the same sense of change, Varvatos reports fashion tends to be too exclusive in general.

“The Neighborhood’s platform allows consumers to get closer to designers, editors and entrepreneurs, and shows the industry is beginning to adapt,” said Varvatos, who will cohost and select the music lineup for the Heartbreaker Banquet at Willie Nelson’s creative hub Luck, Texas, later in the week.

Reid, who opened a boutique on Sixth Street in late August, and collaborates with bands like Mumford & Sons, should be equally in deep.

— REBECCA KLEINMAN

NEW TEAM: Speaking for the first time since the death of resident designer Manuel Mota, Pronovias owner and president Alberto Palatchi unveiled at a Barcelona press conference last week the formation of a new design team made up of roughly 60 professionals to be called Atelier Pronovias. The group will act as the bridal company’s “collective creative director to strengthen, innovate and diversify the brand for brides on five continents,” he said.

Mota, who committed suicide on Jan. 8, had a history of depression, according to local sources. In a note left to his family, he cited business pressures and specifically requested that nobody from Pronovias attend the funeral. The media here blamed Palatchi, who said, “My relationship with Manuel was exemplary for 23 years; anything else is slander and a lie.” — BARBARA BARKER

HAUTE PERFORMANCE: Riccardo Tisci has become a go-to guy for haute stage costumes. Rihanna kicked off her

Diamonds World Tour Friday night in Buffalo in a custom Givenchy couture. A floor-sweeping ruffled silk crepe cape in black with a embroidered collar and a pair of black-and-white leather thigh-high boots with lacing details was the first thing the singer’s fans saw when she walked on stage.

The dark, yet romantic mood underlying Rihanna’s music and Tisci’s fashions continued throughout the lower layers of the singer’s costume. Taking cues from his fall men’s collection, Tisci designed a printed parka featuring gold bullet motifs, embroidery and Swarovski Elements. Underneath was a black-and-white leather bra with golden buckles and starry embroideries, juxtaposing a pair of black silk and satin mini shorts. Accenting the ensemble was a pair of couture goggles featuring gold hardware, a gold metal shark tooth necklace reading “RIRI” in the back, and white crystal stud earrings.

According to Givenchy, the costume is a symbol of “female empowerment and urban haute couture elegance.” “Rihanna represents what young and amazing means today,” explained Tisci. “She is punk and talented. She offers intelligence, energy and pure beauty. She is the face of her generation.”

Following her sold-out performance in Buffalo, Rihanna had to cancel Sunday night’s concert in Boston due to laryngitis. — PAULINA SZMYDKE

MEETING THE REPELLER: A long, thick queue of excited young fans and wannabe bloggers — some with their mothers — waited patiently to meet Leandra Medine on Wednesday evening at Neiman Marcus NorthPark Center as the Man Repeller blogger promoted her spring sportswear collaboration with P.J.K. designer Chelsey Santry. Some of the groupies bore gifts: a taco, a pair of google eyes, even an essay collection entitled “Thirteen Thoughts on Life.”

Medine, who was shepherded by her CAA agent as she autographed iPhone covers and T-shirts, said her appearances lately have been similarly frenetic. “It’s phenomenal and humbling and awesome,” Medine said. “It has to do with the social following of a blogger. When you have 280,000 Instagram followers and you say, ‘Hey, come see me in Dallas,’ you get a reaction.”

Observing quietly from offside, Santry said the collection was doing well, especially the floral pants, gold brocade skirt and stretch twill and leather moto jacket. “Our vibes are very different but we like the same things, we just put them together differently,” Santry said. “We made it Man Repeller-wearable-ish.”

It was the duo’s first PA, with others to follow at Nordstrom in Chicago, Neiman’s in Austin plus Saks Fifth Avenue in Beverly Hills.

— HOLLY HABER

BIRTHDAY GIFT: Shoescribe.com,Yoox Group’s footwear e-store, is marking its first anniversary by launching an exclusive shoe designed by Jerome C. Rousseau.

Taking inspiration from Disney’s 3-D movie “Oz the Great and Powerful,” the Canadian designer realized a silver glittering open-toe

pump embellished with a gold leather spiral, which is available for purchase as an exclusive at Shoescribe.com at 478 euros, or $621 at current exchange.

“I was inspired by the flamboyant and whimsical nature of Oz but particularly its landscapes and costumes. This inspiration translated into a fierce shimmery glitter pump finished with an unexpected spiral that truly captures the essence of the film,” said Rousseau.

— ALESSANDRA TURRA

REGGAE LEGEND LIVES ON: Hope Road Merchandising LLC, which owns the worldwide

property rights for Bob Marley, has struck two new deals. Bravado, a music merchandising company, has acquired the worldwide apparel rights for Bob Marley through a strategic investment in the Marley family’s apparel and accessories company, Zion Rootswear. In addition, Hope Road Merchandising has retained Creative Artists Agency for exclusive representation of the Marley brand.

“We continue to be inspired by my father’s growing legacy and are excited to embark on

new opportunities that will further his global influence and spread his message to an even

broader audience,” said Cedella Marley, president of Hope Road Merchandising.

Bravado is expected to work closely with the Marley family to expand the global reach of Zion Rootswear, which will include launching Marley-inspired apparel collections and merchandise at retail, as well as developing brands across a broad spectrum of apparel categories. Terms of the transaction weren’t disclosed.

Tom Bennett, chief executive officer of Bravado, said, “This is one of the largest investments that Bravado has ever made and Bob Marley is an iconic artist

who has an extraordinary potential for growth in this area.”

CAA will assume management of the existing brand portfolio of Marley licensees, while creating new global opportunities in the areas of motion pictures, TV, commercial endorsements, consumer licensing, digital media and

games. CAA will also serve as a consultant to 1Love.org, the Marley Family foundation, on its philanthropic endeavors.

Marley, who died in 1981, has the second-highest social media following of any posthumous celebrity, with the

official Bob Marley Facebook page having over 42 million fans, ranking it among the Top 25 of all Facebook pages and Top 10 among celebrity pages. — LISA LOCKWOOD

WOOLLY MINDED: The dust has only just settled on Australian sheep properties since the Campaign for Wool patron Prince Charles touched down in November as part of the Diamond Jubilee tour. Now wool growers are bracing for an influx of 200 international media representatives, who are due to fly in for the 2013 Ermenegildo Zegna Wool Awards. One of the biggest buyers of Australian superfine merino wool (18.5 microns and finer) since the Twenties, Zegna is celebrating the 50th edition of its annual Wool Trophy for the year’s best fleece, first presented in Tasmania in 1963 — with a second trophy, the Vellus Aureum (“Golden Fleece”) launched in 2002 to recognize fleeces of 13.9 microns and under.

To commemorate the milestone, Zegna is preparing for three days of festivities from April 21 to 23, which will include farm visits, a press dinner, press conference and, on April 23, a multimedia exhibition and party at the Royal Hall of Industries at Sydney’s Fox Studios. There, a runway show will feature the Ermenegildo Zegna fall collection, in addition to a special Australian Celebration Collection that will be sold globally. In Australia and New Zealand, the latter will be available immediately following the show through Zegna’s flagships in Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and Auckland, as well as concessions within the David Jones department stores. — PATTY HUNTINGTON

11WWD MONDAY, MARCH 11, 2013

FASHION SCOOPS

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A sketch of an onstage costume for Rihanna by Riccardo Tisci.

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