Oahu Inside Out July-August 2016

T H E R E S O U R C E G U I D E T O O U R I S L A N D

InsideOuInsideOuO A H U

T H E R E S O U R C E G U I D E T O O U R I S L A N D

InsideOuInsideOuInsideOuInsideOuInsideOuInsideOuInsideOuInsideOuInsideOuInsideOuInsideOuInsideOuInsideOuInsideOuInsideOuInsideOuInsideOuInsideOuInsideOuInsideOuInsideOuO A H UInsideOuInsideOuInsideOuMango MadnessAttendees reap the rewardsat Mangoes at the Moana TRUCKING

ALONGFood trucks fi nd

permanent parking spot in Ala Moana

RAVISHING RESERVE

Island residents can now get a

taste of local beef

AMERICANDREAM

L&L Drive Inn celebrates its

40th year

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Contents

ISLAND LIFE8 walkaboutA walking architectural tour of Honolulu through the eyes of Frank Haines.

MorSELS10 american dreamL & L Drive Inn is a story of success and perseverance for the past 39 years.

14 sweet sangriaA refreshing summer quencher that’s best prepared ahead of time.

MUSINGS18 Body & mindThe Prince Lot Hula festival combines traditional and contemporary dances.

oUT AND ABoUT22 events and celebrationsMark your calendars for the Joy of Sake and the Made in Hawai‘i Festival.

MAUKA To MAKAI36 strumming alongThe 46th Annual ‘Ukulele Festival Hawai‘i features a stellar lineup of local and visiting musicians.

INS AND oUTS40 not to missFrom a GLAM fashion show to a Kailua parade, it’s all about festivities during July and August.

24 mango madnessFor the eighth consecutive year, the Moana Surfrider, A Westin Resort & Spa will put the spotlight on one of island residents’ favorite tropical fruits. by Simplicio Paragas

28 trucking alongVarious food trucks have found a permanent parking spot at Makers & Tasters, a parking lot that’s located next to the former Fisherman’s Wharf. by Mari Taketa

32 where’s the Beef?O‘ahu residents and visitors alike can now get a taste of pasture-raised beef — from New York striploins to rib eyes — at Kualoa Private Nature Reserve. by Lauren Hanley

D e part m e n ts

F e at u r e s

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Food Spotting

✽editor’s letter

And duing the next couple of months, we should reap an abundance of mangoes, which will be the tropical fruit du jour duirng the eighth annual “Mangoes at the Moana.” The event has grown since its inception and the caliber of chefs continues to get stronger.

Speaking of strength and longevity, retired architect Frank Haines is a living legend. At 95 years old, the candid tour guide leads groups to some of Honolulu’s famous landmarks. Along the way, he provides little nuggets of trivia that will surprise attendees.

Not surprising is the success that Eddie Flores and Johnson Kam have experienced with L & L Drive Inn for the past 39 years. And if the four decades are prescient of the future, new L & L locations will continue to open nationally and globally.

Drawing its own international attention is the 46th Annul ‘Ukulele Festival Hawai‘i, which will feature artists from Australia, Japan and Korea. Founded by Roy Sakuma — another living treasure — the one-day gathering at Kapiolani Park attracts legions of strummers who have taken the tiny instrument to a new level.

Dancers during the Prince Lot Hula Festival have also raised the bar, performing both hula kāhiko (ancient) hula and chant, and ‘auana (modern) hula. The festival reflects Moanalua Garden Foundation’s commitment throughout the years to perpetuate the traditional oli (chants) and hula of Kamananui (Moanalua).

Food trucks can

now be seen parked

next to the old

Fisherman’s Wharf

on Ala Moana Blvd.

Makers & Tasters is

what founders call a

“food truck park.”

Simplicio Paragassenior ediTor

The local food scene continues to evolve. We now have food truck “parks” and pasture-raised stock.

on the coverMoana surfrider chefs david Lukela and nanako Perez-nava will partici-pate in “Mangoes at the Moana” on July 16. ©steve Czerniak


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✽ island life

Just call him grandpa. And be prepared to keep up with the spry 95-year-old retired architect. For more than 20 years, Frank Haines has been leading groups to some of Hono-

lulu’s famous landmarks. Colorful and engaging, Haines’ two-and-half-hour, 23-stop walking tour features a bit of trivia, some humor and a lot of historical information.

“I’m enough of a ham to keep enjoying these tours,” chuckles Haines, the former president and chairman of Architects Hawai‘i and the principal

architect for many promi-nent architectural projects, including the Prince Kuhio Federal Building, Kaiser Moanalua Hospital, Kaiser’s Honolulu Clinic, Bishop Square and the restoration of the Ali‘iolani Hale. “I started these tours because I was surprised to find that so many of my friends didn’t know about the history of some of these great buildings.”

Meeting at 9 on a Sat-urday morning at the office of the American Institute of Architects Honolulu, our group of 10 received instructions on what to expect: Haines would lead and would only start his narration once everyone was gathered around him. Our first point of interest was the Stangenwald Building on Merchant Street. Haines points out that it was the tallest building in down-town Honolulu when it was built in 1901. The Italian-inspired six-story office was also one of the first to have an electric elevator and the first to be “fireproof.”

“It still has the original chandelier,” says Haines, pointing to the light fixture. “It’s also on the list of the State Register of Historic Places.”

Also appearing on the same list is the Alexander & Baldwin Building, which extends an entire

A tour of downtown Honolulu through the eyes of an architect. by Gina Bailey

Walkabout

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aia honolulu architectural walking tourHeld on pre-

reserved Saturday

mornings from

9-11. Cost is $15

per person. Visit

aiahonolulu.org or

call 628-7245.

city block on Bishop Street. Built at a cost of $1.2 million, the steel-and-concrete structure stands out as one of the masterworks of archi-tecture from the 1920s and 1930s in Honolulu. Some of the more notable architectural aspects in-clude the extended upper floor balcony that imparts a residential look, the columned recessed entry with mosaic murals and the terra cotta-clad façade.

A collaboration be-tween C.W. Dickey (who was Samuel Alexander’s grandson) and Hart Wood, the building’s in-terior and exterior feature countless Chinese details — including heads of water buffalo that jut out — to honor the contribu-tions of Chinese labor to A&B’s success.

Haines notes that many of the buildings once had brick fronts, which have since been plastered to give a more “contemporary” appear-ance. Much of the area is now part of a preserva-tion district, and while interiors can be changed, Haines asserts that exteriors must be kept to historical specifications.

One of Haines’ favorite buildings is the Ali‘iolani Hale, which he was proud-ly responsible for restoring

in 1975. While conducting research for the project, Haines says his team found a copy of a letter that King Kamehameha IV wrote to the Hawaiian consul in Sydney, Australia.

“In it, the king stated that he wanted to build a new palace, but since there was ‘no qualified architect in Hawai‘i,’ he requested proposals from Australian architects,” Haines recalls. “But King Kamehameha IV died long before construction ever began.”

Translating to “house of the heavenly chiefs,” Ali‘iolani is on the na-tional and state registers of historic places, and

now houses the Hawai‘i State Supreme Court, the justices’ offices, a law library and the Judiciary History Center.

As we continued the tour and learned more about Spanish Colonial, Italian Renaissance, Romanesque and Neoclas-sical architecture styles, Haines’ steady pace never slowed and his narration never lagged.

Nearing the end of our tour as we stood at the corner of Merchant and Bethel streets, a woman in her car spontanteously yelled out, “You’ve got the best tour guide on the island.”

She was right.✽


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✽ MORSELS

JET SETTERFrom Hawai‘i to

Las Vegas, pictured

above, to New York,

L&L has attracted

customers with its

hearty meals.

From a modest dairy busi-ness along Liliha Street to a growing international restaurant franchise, L&L Drive-Inn (aka L&L Ha-waiian BBQ) has become a leading example of a mom-and-pop shop that’s evolved into a major corporation. Formerly named L&L Dairy — after the father- and-son business team of Robert Lee and Robert

Lee Jr. — L&L’s name and signature hearty meals have become as popular world-wide as they have been locally for decades among island residents. � is year marks 40 years since founders Eddie Flores and Johnson Kam � rst opened L&L Drive Inn’s doors to customers, providing the popular local staple of a plate lunch.

Originally from Hong Kong, the Flores family came to Hawai‘i with hopes of providing greater oppor-tunities for themselves and their children. L&L’s vice president and chief operat-ing o� cer Bryan P. Andaya says Flores’ experience as an immigrant in the workforce helped pave his work ethic and set precedence for his

L&L Drive-Inn celebrates 40 years of hard work and satis� ed bellies.by Kristen Nemoto

American Dream

Continued on page 12

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adult career as a real estate agent specializing in buying and selling restaurants.

“What’s really inspiring about our franchises is that they have become a vehicle for the American dream,” says Andaya. “� ese franchise systems give our employees the opportunity to buy and enter the busi-ness world, and become owners relatively easy.”

where they are today,” he adds. “It’s really an Ameri-can dream.”

Andaya can relate to L&L’s success through his own beginnings in Hilo. His parents were immigrants from the Philippines — his mother picked macada-mia nuts; his father was a sugar-cane farmer. Although Andaya moved to the mainland to study law in Oregon and Chicago — and eventually moved back home to become a success-ful attorney on O‘ahu — he felt a calling to L&L after he met Flores as a client in 2000. After creating a relationship through several years of handling some of Flores’ cases and discuss-ing the overall business of the L&L franchise, Flores o� ered Andaya the job as L&L’s COO in 2008.

With nearly 200 restaurants worldwide, it’s not a surprise that L&L owners and workers may be on the same track to success as Andaya and Flores. Andaya hopes to see more restaurant openings and wants to create more opportunities for aspiring business owners.

“I think I have the best job in the world,” he says. “� ere’s still a lot more opportunity for growth. � e sky’s the limit … We’re making dreams come true and spreading the aloha.” ✽

✽ MORSELS

But don’t take Andaya’s words of “relatively easy” lightly, he says. � e process to become an L&L business owner is “easy” in compari-son to starting a completely new business plan from scratch, but success is only achieved with labor inten-sive hard work and laser sharp determination.

“You know all of us work hard at our jobs but this is something di� erent,” Andaya asserts. “We’re talking seven days a week. Holidays. Weekends. Day and night, 365 days a year. It becomes your life. But you can be anybody by working hard, believing and becoming a leader.

“I’ve seen so many come in and start o� and see where they were and

Continued from page 10

(Clockwise from top

right) L&L Hawaiian

BBQ’s Plano, Texas

location; L&L found-

ers Eddie Flores,

left, and Johnson

Kam; seafood mix

plate with pork

chop; L&L’s � rst

location on Liliha

Street; Indonesia

location.

25% KAMA‘AINA DISCOUNT

LOCATED AT SHERATON WAIKIKI

COMPLIMENTARY SELF-PARKING

KAIMARKET.COM | 808-921-4600

Experience Hawai‘i’s farm-fresh fl avors


14 InsIdeOutHawaII.cOm | JULy+AUGUST 2016

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✽ liquid assets

Fun Fact: Sangria was a popular libation served at swanky parties and stylish soirees during the 19th century, yet didn’t catch on in North America until it was first introduced in the Spanish Pavilion at the 1964 World Fair in New York. Since then, its indisputable popularity has continued to develop and grow, especially during summer.

In its simplest form, sangria is a spiked punch from Spain typically made with red wine, fruits and other add-ins, yet there are more opinions as to the correct way to make it than you can shake a stick at. Even so, the consensus is that a sangria is only as great as the quality of its ingredients, and since sangria is all about being simple, approachable and refreshing — not to mention modestly priced — for the most authentic flavor, choose a favorite yet inexpensive Spanish red, such as Garnacha, Carinena, Tempranillo or a blend of these (or other) grapes. Many reds from Portugal, Argentina or Chile will also work well.

Variations on sangria can include replacing red wine with white wine or Cava (sparkling wine from Spain), while for a different yet tasty take in this ever-popular sipper an array of other ingredients can also be swapped in. Consider adding different fruits (think apples, kiwi, blueberries or melon), adding a splash of fresh-squeezed fruit juice like lime or even mango, or replacing the brandy with apricot brandy or lychee liqueur.

Whichever sangria you stir up, your guests of honor are bound to be pleased as punch. A tu salud!

Citrus Berry Sangria Makes: 4 to 6 servingsQuench your thirst with this classic-style sangria.

1 each lemon, lime and small orange, thinly sliced into rounds

A twosome of refreshing sangria options By alison Kent

Double the Sangria

1 cup pitted cherries or halved strawberries¼ cup sugarPinch of sea salt2 oz brandy1 well-chilled bottle spanish-style red wine

in a pitcher, stir together

lemon, lime, orange and cherries with sugar and salt; let stand for between one and two hours.

Add brandy; slightly mashing or mudding fruit with large wooden spoon. Stir in wine; cover and refrig-erate for 30 minutes. Just before serving, stir in plenty of ice cubes.

Beer Sangria Makes: 4 to 6 servings

While admittedly more akin to perhaps a shandy than traditional sangria, nevertheless, this beer-based sangria is ideal for dads (moms, too) served on the patio or at backyard barbecues. if desired, wheat beer can be replaced with your favorite lager.

6 oz orange liqueur like cointreau or triple sec¾ cup peach nectar¾ cup pineapple juice¾ cup lemonade1 ½ cups red seedless grapes, stems removed1 peach, thinly sliced1 small orange, thinly sliced into rounds3 well-chilled bottles (12-ounce each) wheat beer

in a pitcher, stir together orange liqueur, peach nectar, pineapple juice and lemonade. Stir in grapes, peaches and oranges; cover and refriger-ate for between two and six hours.

When ready to serve, stir in beer and pour into ice cube-filled glasses.

9

Open daily from 5:00 to 10:00pm.


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When the Prince Lot Hula Festival was estab-lished in 1978, kumu hula Vicky Holt Takamine’s hālau, Kumu Pua Ali‘i ‘Ilima (Royal ‘Ilima Blossom), was the first to be invited. They’ve been coming ever since.

“The Prince Lot festival embodies hula,” says Takamine, who started her hālau in 1977. “All the elements of hula are rep-resented in this beautiful setting: the sun, the breeze, the vegetation, the trees — these are the inspiration for hula.”

A cultural treasure that was once forbidden in the ahupua‘a (district) of

Prince lot hula festivalNamed in mem-

ory of Prince Lot

Kapuāiwa, who later

reigned as King

Kamehameha V, the

festival was founded

in 1978.

oli (chants) and hula of Kamananui (Moanalua).

For Takamine, hula is not merely a dance; it’s her life. And the Prince Lot ranks among her top favor-ite cultural festivals. “This is more about ‘ohana and sharing,” she says. “Every-one who attends loves hula; it’s one of the richest hula experiences on the island.”

With crowds swelling to as many as 10,000 each year, this festival has become the signature hula event on O‘ahu. Not only has it attracted island residents but visitors have also started to gravitate toward the event.

“We are very pleased to see how much the

✽ MUSINGS

Moanalua, hula was revived in the late 1800s by Prince Lot Kapuāiwa, whose name bears the title of this largest and oldest non-competitive hula festival in the state. This year, more than 12 hālau are expected to par-ticipate in the 39th Annual Prince Lot Hula Festival on the pristine grounds of Moanalua Gardens, Satur-day, July 16, from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.; and Sunday, July 17 from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Themed “Mo‘olelo O Moanalua…Stories of Moanalua,” the festival reflects Moanalua Garden Foundation’s commitment throughout the years to perpetuate the traditional

Body and SpiritPrince Lot Hula Festival combines modern and ancient dances. by Gina Bailey


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festival is enjoyed by both kama‘āina and malihini,” says MGF executive director and president Alika Jamile in a released statement. “With encouragement from kumu hula and supporters, we will continue our new tradition started last year of two days of great hula to include dancers from out-of-state branches of Hawai‘i-based hālau. We will have some new activi-ties this year, which we will announce at a later date.”

The festival will feature both hula kāhiko (ancient) hula and chant, and ‘auana (modern) hula performanc-es. Dancers will perform on one of the few remaining pā hula (hula mounds) in Hawai‘i. In addition to hula, the festival includes a craft fair, cultural practitioners, and food and beverages for sale. A limited edition T-shirt will also be available. Admission is free, however, attendees are encouraged to buy a souvenir button to help support the festival.

“I have to thank Moanalua Garden Founda-tion for keeping this alive,” Takamine says. “Most events have a shelf life and the energy eventually dies, but the Foundation has done a fabulous job perpetuating hula for the love of hula.”

Visit moanaluagardens-foundation.org.✽

unexpected elegance

Open for lunch on Wednesdays through Fridays during the Fall and Spring semsters.

Leeward Community College

For reservations, please call 455-0475

Where do you want to go?

Find the best of the city

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Events and Celebrations

Joy of SakeJuly 22

rice wine enthu-

siasts won’t want

to miss this event

that will showcase

an extensive line

of premium sake

styles in the junmai, ginjo, daiginjo and

kimoto categories, many of which are

not otherwise available in the U.S. These

include sakes which have received silver

and gold awards from the U.S. national

Sake Appraisal, a rigorous blind tasting

conducted by 10 judges from the U.S.

and Japan held every year in Honolulu.

www.Joyofsake.com

Locals Only august 19-21 from a freshly made

SPAm musubi to the intricate weavings

of a lauhala mat, you know when you’ve

come across a product from Hawai’i. for

three days, island residents and visitors

alike can attend the 22nd annual made

in Hawai‘i festival, a showcase of more

than 400 exhibitors and cooking demon-

strators. Admission is $5; children age 6

and younger are free.

www.madeinhawaiifestival.com

Grecian Formula august 27-28

combine souvlaki,

baklava and dancing

then throw in some arts

and crafts and you’ve

got the ideal Greek fes-

tival at Ala moana Park.

www.greekfestival

hawaii.com

It’s Ag-Tastic!July 9-10 The grass is definitely greener

on the other side … at least for the 54th

annual Hawai‘i State farm fair, which

returns to the green fields and rolling

landscape on the windward side of the

island. The two-day event will feature

food, education exhibits, eating contests,

entertainment and keiki rides.

www.hawaiistatefarmfair.org

Vintage showJuly 17

More than 100 antique dealers will participate in the 26th Annual Hawaii All-Collectors Show at the Blaisdell. www.ukulele.com

august moonaugust 5

The Honolulu Museum of Art’s summer wine and food event features more than 30 winemakers and food from top O‘ahu chefs and restaurants. www.honolulu museum.org

slack key guitar festaugust 14

The twangy riffs from some of O‘ahu’s top slack-key guitarists will perform live at the Outrigger Reef on the Beach Hotel. www.slackkey festival.com

There’s a lot to see and hear this summer, from a colorful event celebrating Greek culture to the annual Made in Hawai‘i festival. Here’s a quick glance at events and shows during July and August.

✽ out and about

P r e s e n t i n g ➢ ➢ ➢ ➢

The 2016-2017

HOT Opera Season

Three Decembers

M a r c h

2 4 , 2 5 , 2 6 2 0 1 7

Tales of Hoffmann

A p r i l

2 1 , 2 3 , 2 5 2 0 1 7

LaBohèmeO c t o b e r

1 4 , 1 6 , 1 8 , 2 0 1 6

A Streetcar Named DesireJ a n u a r y

2 7 , 2 9 , 3 1 2 0 1 7

To S u b s c r i b e , p l e a s e c a l l t h e H OT B ox O f f i c e a t

8 0 8 . 5 9 6 . 7 8 5 8 o r g o t o H a w a i i O p e r a . o r g .

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Fruit of Their LaborAttendees reap the rewards during Mangoes at the Moana.

By simplicio Paragas | Photos by steve czerniak


Fruit of Their LaborAttendees reap the rewards during Mangoes at the Moana.

By simplicio Paragas | Photos by steve czerniak

(Opposite

page) During

July, Nanako

Perez-Nava will

incorporate

mangoes into

her desserts,

including

coconut panna

cotta, macarons

and mango

bread. (Above)

Fried calamari

will be served

with a chili-

mango sauce.

The sweet smell of mangoes pleasantly evokes childhood memories for most island residents. Ryan Loo remembers having slices of mango after swimming in his auntie Ruth’s pool during the summer. Nanako Perez-Nava recalls how prized the queenly fruit is in her native Japan. And David Lukela still can’t believe he lost the “Mango Throwdown” two years ago.

“Being thrown in the Mango Throwdown is actually one of my favorite memories,” laughs Lukela, chef de cuisine at the Moana Surfrider, A Westin Resort & Spa. “I wanted to win but I didn’t; there were a lot of good chefs competing.”

Now in its eighth year, Mangoes at the Moana is a daylong event that celebrates the nutritionally rich tropical fruit. Known for its unique flavor and fragrance, the mango is an integral part of our culture, according to Mark Suiso of Makaha Mangoes.

“I was watching ‘Ratatouille’ one time and when that big French critic tasted something so simple, it brought him back to his childhood years,” says Suiso, the self-described Johnny Apple-seed of mangoes. “That’s what the mango does for me and many others. To me, no fruit trees in the yard means no soul.”

Not native to Hawai‘i, the mango found its way to the islands like many of our other favorite foods — via ship. In Hawaiian Annual and Almanac for 1909, Thomas G. Thrum writes that Captain John Meek of the brig Kamehameha

brought the first mango trees to Ho-nolulu from Manila in 1824. The Rev. Joseph Goodrich and Don Francisco de Paula Marín, a Spanish immigrant and talented horticulturalist, received these trees, which were the source of a mango strain known today as the Hawaiian race. Thrum further notes that in 1885, O‘ahu businessman Joseph Marsden imported some seedling mango trees and grafts from Jamaica. By 1929, G. P. Wilder and S. M. Damon had imported a number of new mango genus from other countries. Later the Hawai‘i Agricultural Experi-ment Station of the U. S. Department of Agriculture introduced several new vari-eties, including Hawai‘i’s most popular backyard tree, the Haden.

While Haden and Pirie are perhaps the two most familiar mangoes, partici-pating growers hope to expose attendees to the Mapulehus, Gouveias and Rapo-zas. “They’re named after the families who grew them,” says Candy Suiso. “My


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family has one that’s called the Reuben Special, named after my dad.”

Likening it to a wine tasting event, Mark Suiso explains that each mango variety possesses a distinct flavor and finish, much like a Pinot Noir red grape differs from a Cabernet. “The Rapoza, for example, is unique to Hawai‘i and I simply tell people that it melts in your mouth,” he says. “Others are milder in flavor and have different tastes charac-teristics and profiles.”

The county fair-like atmosphere in the Banyan Courtyard will feature a Farmer’s Market where guests can talk story with local growers who are all too willing to share their pruning and graft-ing techniques, as well as their fresh ripe mangoes. A silent auction will be held in the lobby with proceeds benefiting the Culinary Institute of the Pacific at Kapiolani Community College.

Meanwhile, Lukela and Perez-Nava will stage cooking demonstrations, teaching guests how to prepare mango-inspired dishes.

“It’s such a versatile fruit,” says Perez-Nava, the resort’s pastry chef. “It can be used to prepare a savory dish or a sweet one.”

Participating chefs in the Mango Throwdown will put their best mango recipe forward, leaving it up to attend-ees to vote on their favorite dish. “It’s a chef-driven event,” says Loo, the hotel’s food and beverage director. “This event has definitely gained in popularity. Locals come down for the day and our hotel guests get a taste of Hawai‘i.”

“In Japan, mangoes are so expensive and some of them are only bought for a special occasion,” Perez-Nava says. “A single mango can sell for $300 but that type of mango is really a special fruit that’s grown in a very specific way.” ✽

Now in season,

mangoes come

in various

varieties, from

Hadens and

Piries to the

Mapulehus

and Gouveias.

(Opposite page)

Chef David

Lukela’s featured

mango dish

will be a crispy

soft-shell crab

with pickled

mangoes.

mangOes at tHe mOana

mangoes at the moanaJuly 169 a.m. to 2 p.m.

mango mixdownNoon to 2 p.m. Lower Veranda

mango throwdown11 a.m.-2 p.m.

Participants include chefs James Aptakin (MAC 24/7), Chris Kajioka (Senia), Ed Kenney/Maggie King (Town), Ronnie Nasuti (Tiki’s Bar & Grill), Mark Noguchi/Chuck Wakeman (Pili Group/Mission House), Andy Reagan (Morimoto Waikīkī) Michelle Karr-Ueoka (MW Restaurant), Leanne Wong (Koko Head Café)

Admission is free and guests are welcome to taste each chef’s creation for $6 per plate. There will be a ticket pre-sale for those who are interested in purchasing prior to the event. The pre-sale will give guests 10 tickets for the price of eight. The two extra tickets can be used towards the purchase of cocktails at the Southern Wine & Spirits booth. Pre-sale tickets can be bought at the Honolulu Box Office through July 15. Tickets for the Throwdown and cocktails will also be available in the lobby on the day of the event. For information about “Mangoes at the Moana,” call the Moana Surfrider at 808-922-3111 and ask for the concierge desk.


It’s a chef-driven event. This event has definitely gained in popularity. Locals come down for

the day and our hotel guests get a taste of Hawai‘i.


O‘ahu’s food truck scene finds a permanent parking spot.by mari taketa | Photos by steve czerniak

One look around Hawai‘i’s largest food truck rally can be overwhelming: Rows of trucks in all the colors of the rainbow stretch in each direction on Honolulu’s waterfront, interspersed with lines of street food tents. On offer is an only-in-Hawai‘i mix of North Shore line-caught fish and chips, kimchee fried rice with local-style smoke meat, lau lau plates, deep-fried musubi and lilimansi pot pies. If you’re hungry in paradise, Eat the Street is the place to be.

But wait. Lili-what? “It’s my take on Key lime pie,” explains Kathy Masunaga, proprietor of the Sweet Revenge pot pie truck. “It’s made with lilikoi and calamansi juice in a graham cracker crust and finished with whipped local cream. We think it’s better than plain old Key lime pie, which is usually made with bottled juice.”

As with every truck, there’s a story behind Sweet Revenge. The bright pink truck and its unusual name came about after Masunaga’s divorce, when the newly single mom decided to pursue her love of baking. Specifically, she baked pot pies. Masunaga started with basics like chicken pot pies, fresh mango pies, chocolate haupia pies. Then she cut loose. On her constantly rotating menus, lilimansi now takes its place next to Sake Bomb pie (sake-soaked plums atop custard), Chocolate Pig pie (it’s topped with bacon), Pineapple Right-Side-Up pie, Beef Shepherd’s pie and her consistent bestseller, the original chicken pot pie.

The growth of contemporary food trucks on O‘ahu is not unlike that of Sweet Revenge’s menu. In the fall of 2010 there were none. Then two newcomers appeared and jumpstarted the scene: Melt, selling gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches, and Kogi, an L.A.-style Korean taco truck. Month after month, these trucks were followed by more. “They were the risk takers,” says Poni Askew. “Just by happenstance, all the risk takers came into the market at the same time. It made it feel explosive and profound.”

By January 2011, when Askew and her husband Brandon put on the first Eat the Street, half of the 10 vendors were new food trucks. Honolulu’s appetite for street food was such that more than 1,000 eaters overwhelmed the tiny lot next to Ala Moana Center. Starting the next month, Eat the Street became a monthly food fest, drawing thousands each time.

Trucking Along

(Opposite page)

Flyin’ Ahi offers

fresh poke bowls.

Tea on Fleek’s

iced teas are

infused with fresh

ingredients. Enjoy

a meal outdoors.


Eat the Street’s roster is now up to three dozen street food vendors, of which a third are trucks. They rotate to accommodate a growing waiting list. Poni Askew estimates there are more than 100 food trucks now roaming O‘ahu, the majority of them only 12 to 18 months old.

Among the newest is Flyin’ Ahi, which debuted last July. It’s a poke truck, of course, started by former nurse Leroy Melchor and his wife Loke, a teacher. To Poni Askew, Melchor represents the best kind of food truck entrepreneur: well-studied and meticulously prepared. “He took probably six to eight months securing a well thought-out business plan. He went to Oregon and worked with someone building a truck for him,” she says.

Flyin’ Ahi’s poke bowls center around selections of the fresh fish but are already customized for the carb-conscious, the health-conscious and

even those who want to make their own nori-wrapped sushi rolls. Red meat eaters can get kalbi, barbecue pork and guava smokies all in one plate.

Hungry yet? The eating has just begun. Locavores will want to take note of a stark black truck parked next to a small tent selling locally sourced jams and raw honeys. This is Hawaiian Fresh Farms, the food truck arm of a North Shore farm that grows the produce for the dishes it creates. While there’s never a shortage of locally sourced choices at Eat the Street, it’s probably safe to say that Hawaiian Fresh Farms is the ultimate locavore truck. On the menu one Friday night: North Shore goat cheese cheesecake, grass-fed burgers and fresh line-caught fish and chips.

On cool nights, the line at another black truck grows. Kamitoku, one of the island’s few ramen trucks, specializes in beef bone broth. In a city teeming with ramen restaurants serving up tonkotsu, or pork bone broth, this makes Kamitoku even more of a rarity. Not shy on flavor, the straight-from-Japan operation ladles over chewy noodles a savory soup redolent with garlic and the umami of slow-cooked beef bones.

Last October, the Askews celebrated another milestone: the opening of a permanent food truck park — Makers & Tasters — at the old Fisherman’s Wharf on Ala Moana Boulevard. Not only that, Poni Askew says it will get even bigger. That’s not to say that food trucks aren’t roaming the island on any given day, their locations broadcast on their Facebook pages and Instagram accounts. But when you’re hungry for the full range of the island’s street flavors, well, you know where to go.✽

(Above) Flyin’

Ahi’s fresh poke

bowl. (Opposite

page) Inferno’s

wood-fire pizzas

yield a crispy

crust that can be

topped with such

ingredients as

olives, fresh Ho

Farms tomatoes

and basil.


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TheRavishing Reserve

Pasture-raised Beef of o ‘ahuBy Lauren Hanley

Prized for centuries, the 4,000 acres of hills and valleys known as “Kualoa” is a destination worth exploring. Located on the northeastern side of the island, the area is made up of three ahupua‘a (ancient, wedge-shaped agricultural Hawaiian land divisions) known as Ka‘a‘awa, Kualoa and Hakipu‘u. Over time, because all three are owned by one family, the name Kualoa has come to encompass to all three ahupua‘a. It’s also often referred to as Kualoa Ranch. A ranch it is, a grand and successful one. But Kualoa is also so much more, hence its recent name change to Kualoa Private Nature Reserve.

In ancient times, prior to the arrival of Captain Cook and, later, the missionaries, this area was a residency and training ground for kings, and a pu‘uhonua, sanctuary, for others. Today, it remains one of the most historically significant places on O‘ahu. Its owners, the Morgan family, focus their energy on education and land preservation and stewardship, furthering these causes with educational activities and tours.

The Morgans inherited the property from their great-great grandfather, the missionary Dr. Gerrit Judd, who gave up his United States citizenship to become a full-time advisor to King Kamehameha III in 1842. In the mid-1850s, Kamehameha sold Judd the first section of land that was to become Kualoa. Since that time, the property has been a sugar plantation, a


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military airstrip and defense battery, an aquaculture facility, countless movie sets and a mecca for visitor adventures. Sustainable food is the latest, though not the least, initiative that the family has sought to undertake, and the results are delicious.

Though the ranching operation has been alive and well since the 1870s, the product itself was not available to the people of Hawai‘i until 2010 — cattle were brought to weight and shipped to the mainland. Now, locals and visitors are finally getting treated to this grass-fed, ranch-raised, dry-aged local beef.

There are more than 600 head of cattle on the ranch, comprised primarily of Black Angus. Traversing the valleys on any of Kualoa’s many adventure tours, you’ll see them speckled across the mountains, napping, chewing, romping, staring — doing what cows do best. They drink from creeks, sleep under trees, east lush green grass and — we hope — enjoy the jaw-dropping views of the ocean and Mokoli‘i (also known as Chinaman’s Hat). As one ranch visitor so

succinctly put it, “I think they lead pretty happy lives.”

So do the chickens that roam freely through groves and whose eggs are used at the restaurant. Sustainable practices are vital to Kualoa’s ecosystem, which also includes the Moli‘i fishpond where oysters grow in floating cages and are harvested weekly.

At the restaurant, visitors have a chance to savor the beef, whether in the juicy cheeseburger or the succulent Korean-style kalbi beef with pineapple slaw. The beef ’s complex, all-natural flavors are right on target. Kualoa’s dry-aging process lasts 14 days, during which natural bacteria and enzymes break down the meat, leaving it marbled with an earthiness and depth to its flavor. Grass-fed beef has a lot more flavor and freshness in its taste when compared to its grain-fed counterpart.

Island residents can also order the ranch’s beef cuts (prime rib, T-bone, ground beef and more) by the pound at the restaurant, on their website or over the phone. They’re flash-frozen solid and take six to eight hours to defrost at room temperature. Also available at Kualoa is delicious pipikaula, smoked with local kiawe wood to bring out the rustic flavor profile of this local favorite.

When you drive all the way out to beautiful Kualoa, make a day of it. Whether you’re horseback riding through Ka‘a‘awa Valley, getting an education at the 800-year-old Hawaiian fishpond or taking photographic evidence that you were indeed on the sets of “LOST,” “Jurassic Park” and “50 First Dates,” the backdrop to your adventure will be dotted with free-roaming cows, real-live examples of yet another big step in Hawai‘i’s quest for true sustainability.✽

Visitors to

the reserve

can explore

the area on

horseback then

enjoy succulent

Korean-style

kalbi beef with

pineapple slaw.

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‘Ūkulele festival hawai‘iMore than 15 world-

class musicians,

including Willie K,

pictured below, and

acts from around the

world will appear at

this year’s festival at

Kapiolani Park.

Roy Sakuma still vividly remembers his life-chang-ing moment while having lunch at the bandstand. Working as a groundskee-per in Waikīkī, he made a promise to himself: one day he would put on a free ‘ūkulele festival. Forty-five years later, the now-69-year-old continues to stage the annual ‘Ūkulele Festival Hawai‘i.

“In the ’60s, it was all about the guitar and the ‘ūkulele was thought of as a toy,” Sakuma recalls. “I wanted to change that image and elevate the ‘ūkulele’s status as a serious solo instrument.”

Strumming Along

✽ mauka to makai

Annual ‘Ūkulele Festival continues to grow. by Gina Bailey

For an instrument no bigger than a pineapple and no greater than a hula dancer’s prop, the ‘ūkulele has come a long way. A worldwide following and enthusiasts, like Jake Shimabukuro, Jack John-son and Aidan James, have taken the instrument far from behind the scenes.

The “granddaddy of all ‘ūkulele festivals,” as Sakuma so merrily puts it, was the first of its kind in the world. “Everyone thought of (the ‘ūkulele) as a secondary instrument,” he says. “But overtime, everyone just started to fall in love with it.”

Now more than just a free concert, ‘Ūkulele Festival Hawai‘i has aged into a festivity drawing people from across the globe to see, hear and appreciate the four-string, two-octave instrument. For the 46th time on July 17, the lilting sounds and camaraderie among the festival’s attendees will fill the very place that inspired Sakuma’s dreams.

Out-of-town perform-ers include ‘Ūkestralia (Australia); The Bohe-mian ‘Ūkuleles and Sunset Strummers ‘Ūkulele ‘Ohana (California); Fulare-Pad, LeaLea ‘Ūkulele Garden and Swima & The Special Swimanians (Japan); and Kolea ‘Ūkulele Friends and U Rock (Korea). Herb “Ohta-san” Ohta, Willie K, Danny Kaleikini, Paula Fuga, Aidan James, Herb Ohta Jr., Kalei Gamiao, Nick Acosta and the Roy Sakuma ‘Ukulele 700 piece Ukulele will also take the stage. Other events include the ‘Ūkulele Festival Hawai‘i Gala on Friday, July 15 at the Pacific Beach Hotel’s Grand Ballroom beginning at 5:30 p.m. Seats are $85. For reserva-tions or more information, e-mail [email protected] or visit www.ukulelefestivalhawaii.org.✽ ©

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Not to MissA quick glance at events and celebrations during July and August. Mark your calendars and enjoy an annual parade, hula performances, a runway worthy fashion event and music by award-winning local artists.

Beyond The Sea august 13 Listen to

performances by nā

hōkū hanohano winners

nā Leo pilimehana and

willie k during Sea Life

park’s makapu‘u Twilight

concert Series. family

and friends are invited

to partake in the Sea Life

park experience while en-

joying live entertainment

under the windward

side’s summer night sky.

The concert will be held

from 7 to 10 p.m. www.

sealifeparkhawaii.com

Independence DayJuly 4 patriotic kailua residents will get their American flags out and get the grills going

once again as the 70th annual fourth of July parade marches down the mile-long stretch

of kainalu drive. A firework display will conclude the evening. www.kailuachamber.com

GLAMorous FashionsJuly 21-24 project runway’s and hawai‘i’s own local boy kini Zamora returns to help produce the fifth annual Goodwill Goes GLAm! at the blaisdell exhibition hall. www.higoodwill.org

coming soon

Eat andagi september 3-4 if you only have a moment to spare during the first weekend of September, head out to kapiolani park and enjoy the okinawan festival’s andagi dessert (okinawan donut).

trEasurEd mEmoriEs september 3-24 Throughout the month of Septem-ber, thousands will celebrate hawai‘i’s unique melting pot history and culture during the 70th an-nual Aloha festivals.

trick or trEat October 31 honolu-lu’s chinatown will get their costumes ready as the chinatown Arts district presents the hallowbaloo music + Arts festival.

Northern ExposureJuly 16-17 Since 1997, local artists have flocked to

hale‘iwa and eventually a small group of them decided

to create their own organization to showcase their

artwork. The following year the hale‘iwa Arts festival

was organized. check out this year’s festival at hale‘iwa

beach park. www.haleiwaartsfestival.org

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Oahu Inside Out July-August 2016

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