MANAGING EDITOR SINDHU NAIR FASHION EDITOR DEBRINA ALIYAH DEPUTY EDITOR EZDHAR IBRAHIM ALI

SENIOR CORRESPONDENT AYSWARYA MURTHY SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT AARTHI MOHAN PHOTOGRAPHER ROBERT ALTAMIRANO SUB EDITOR SHELLEY KNIPE

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GLAMSOCIAL MEDIA

Cala Mari launches their new campaign with a fun stop motion video featuring Doha-based

bloggers Eat Sleep Be Fancy, Vaninita and Bonjour Chiara. The campaign introduces new additions to the label’s collection, the Cala Del Ray clutch and tote bag. Shot at the W Doha

Hotel & Residences, the campaign features the bloggers playing with the clutches while

roaming all over the hotel. The film is shot and edited by Jan Xavier Pacle with music by Karl Mallari. Check out the full collection of videos

on https://youtube.com/user/calathemari/videos

COMING UP

EVENTS OF THE MONTHDubai Music Week 2015September 23rd to 26th

DMW 2015, in partnership with Dubai World Trade Center (DWTC) and Live Nation Middle

East, supported by Dubai’s Department of Tourism and Commerce Marketing are proud

to mark Dubai’s calendar with this international music festival for the Middle

East. The festival will feature four main segments, including concerts with an

award-winning line-up of A-list performers, celebrity guest speakers, master classes and

an interactive entertainment village. Ellie Goulding and Thirty Seconds to Mars are

some of the big names that will take the stage at the festival. www.dubaimusicweek.ae

With 3D-printed jackets, medieval capes and boys dressed as girls, the haute couture collections

were a fantastical parade. Next month, we bring the highlights from Christian Dior’s old Flemish influences to Elie Saab’s Byzantine gold pieces.

Image: Chanel Haute Couture AW2015.

G TalkWhile we were dashing away from the desert heat in the last two months, something momentous happened across the ocean in the city of New York. The first ever menswear fashion week took place under the umbrella of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) as an addition to the already established Pitti Immagine in Florence and Pitti Uomo in Milan. The becoming of the stylish urban man is for one, a profitable proposition for the industry, but second, it is a sign of the new generation’s pursuit of individual style.

The exciting moment for us, while reviewing the thousands of looks intended for men, was recognising how well these pieces would look in our own wardrobes. The bomber jackets, the slouchy pants, the perfectly tailored shirts, and even the stiff formal tuxedo jackets, would fit in into our rotation of outfits. In fact, if you were to take the runway model’s gender out of the equation, there is no obvious distinction of sex-appropriate clothing for some of the collections. The rise of a gender-free era in fashion has been brewing steadily in the past decade: men are embracing tight-fitting silhouettes that nip at the waist and hemmed capris with sandals, while women look glorious in three-piece suits. Our fashion editor, a prime example, is a big fan of shopping for sweaters and shirts in the men’s department.

This is a different movement from androgynous dressing, as there is no desire to look like the opposite gender, but rather it is a convergence of fashion trends and its norms. Consider that at one end of the spectrum is the highly traditional technical suiting for men while at the other - are perfectly cut feminine dresses for the female form. Now in the middle, lies the meeting point of urban style, where silhouettes are not gender-specific and free for all.

With that thought, we draw on some of the strongest collections hitting stores this season, including those of Bottega Veneta and Dior, where the meeting point between masculine and feminine is blurred. It is a liberating thought, and who knew it would have come from the sexism-riddled fashion industry?

EDITOR’S PICKWE ARE MARVELLING AT THESE CUTE DISNEY PRINCESS BAGS FROM REGIONAL BRAND CEECODE. DESIGNED BY CYNTHIA PENNIKIAN, THESE TOTES ARE NOW AVAILABLE AT FIFTY ONE EAST LAGOONA MALL. THE BRAND IS A PURVEYOR OF STATEMENT PIECES WHICH IS PERFECT FOR MONOCHROME OUTFITS OR JUST TO SHOW SUPPORT FOR A PRINCESS CLOSE TO YOUR HEART.

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SAVE●1 Leather cowboy sandals, QR350, Zara, Landmark Mall. ●2 Hoop earrings with pearls, QR40, H&M, Villaggio Mall. ●3 The No 5 Bag, Finders Keepers, QR260, WEST L.A. ●4 Cross front jumpsuit, QR265, Glamorous, WEST L.A.●5 Soft feather dress, QR845, Line & Dot, WEST L.A.

SPLURGE●1 Denim overalls, QR1,691, Alexa Chung for AG Jeans, Net-A-Porter.●2 Mia Grey clutch, QR2,500, Belquis, www.belquis.com●3 Swirl pearl drop earring, QR2,550, Balenciaga, Porto Arabia. ●4 Thames slider, QR1,400, Tory Burch, Lagoona Mall.●5 Meg dress, QR9,550, Tory Burch, Lagoona Mall.

BACK TOBLACK

“The most colourful thing in the world is black and white, it

contains all colours and at the same time excludes all,” says author

Vikram Verma. Not to adhere to an autumn dressing cliché, but there’s an art to black and white dressing that is becoming increasingly lost

in our colourful perspectives. Solid black and white combinations exude an immediate polished

exterior, alluding to the standard get-ups of fashion mavens of days past. It is simple to put together, but it is also one of the hardest looks to pull off, as the shades

may come off looking dull or too uniform-like. Confidence and

sass is the key to master before venturing into the monochrome

wardrobe, and be adventurous with accessorising. The plain canvas means that just about anything

can work, from little pops of stars on your sandals, to gold details on

your earrings.

SAVEVS

SPLURGE

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SEPTEMBER 2015GLAM / ON OUR

RADAR AN EDIT OF THINGS THAT ARE HOT NOW

ETHAN K’S THE DOHA BAG

Inspired by his journey to Qatar last year, exotic skin artisan Ethan K, has created The Doha Bag, to bring together his experiences and inspirations from this desert city. As he sat admiring the picturesque view of the marina at The Pearl while sipping karak tea, he sketched a special handle to emulate the golden bangles on the wrists of one his closest Qatari clients. The handle takes inspiration from thr lady’s colourful personality, while the curve of the bag

emulates the ripples of the Persian Gulf 's waters. The bag features a special octagonal turn-lock made with semi-precious stones which symbolise luck and prosperity in Asian culture, an ode to Ethan’s Singaporean origins. Four creations have been designed exclusively for Harrods, and each has an 18ct gold dipped-plate, engraved with ‘Ethan K for Harrods’. The Doha Bag is available in a selection of colours and sizes, and can also be carried as a cross-body.

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After the success of its Cybill One of One Collection last year, Aigner is launching another limited edition of the iconic Cybill bag, to celebrate the diversity and unique characteristics of cities worldwide. The Metropolitan Collection gives life to ten cities, including New York, Dubai, London, Shanghai and Doha; channelling the spirit of a

metropolis with characteristic colours, significant symbols and complex leather artwork. The Qatar Edition comes in warm berry tones, displaying the typical geometric, arabesque decorations that we are all familiar with while the London and Berlin editions are characteristically hip, young and edgy. Aigner is located at Porto Arabia, The Pearl.

AIGNER METROPOLITAN

SWAROVSKI MIDDLE EAST EXCLUSIVE

As an extension to the watch collection presented at Baselworld this year, Swarovski has launched a special edition exclusively for

our region. “I was enthused by the idea of extending some existing lines and interpreting

them with an extra touch of sparkle, which I hope will please women from the Middle East,”

explains Nathalie Colin, the brand’s creative director. Comprising three designs, the special issue portrays a reinterpretation of two iconic, bestselling designs: the fashionable timepiece Aila Day, and the feminine and playful Lovely

Crystals. Aila Day Double Tour is available in a combination of gold plating, brown leather and brown dial. Its double-wrap strap is particularly

easy to mix and match with other cuffs and bangles, for an off-the-moment stacked wrist

look. The collection includes two luxuriant takes on the ever-popular Lovely Crystals, in

light gold-plated and rose gold-plated bracelet variations, with moving crystals encased in the face. The collection is now available in stores.

One of Valerie Messika’s ten new collections for the Messika Paris brand, is the Union Square, that highlights a versatile and transformable design that is understated, yet elegant. Both the earrings and tie necklace feature emerald-cut diamonds of minimal facets, to deliberately tone down the sparkle. The necklace comes in the form of an endless ribbon that can be worn in a single or double loop, and is held together by a

removable diamond hinge, crafted in a 4.01 carat emerald cut stone. The versatility and playfulness of Valerie’s creations continue in the Noa collection of bangles, that feature movable diamonds symbolising 'Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow'. The thin bangles form the vessel for the movable diamonds, making the pieces a dynamic addition to your outfit. Messika Paris is available from Ali bin Ali Jewellery, Royal Plaza.

The award-winning jewellery designer, Nada G, who graced our shores a couple

of seasons back, has just launched the complete Baby Malak Collection, at the

2015 Las Vegas Couture Show, the jewellery industry’s annual exhibition. The collection was based on the Baby Malak rings launched

last year, which so well-received that the designer decided to expand on the concept,

to include cuffs, earrings, chokers and necklaces. The rings originally debuted

within the Resolutions Collection, which embraces the vibrancy and positivity of life.

Beautifully encrusted in the brilliance of colourful stones, the designs were crafted

to work in harmony with the vibrant metal, with each ring spelling out a rainbow of its

own. “We all pursue the positives in our lives and what constantly makes us happier and more balanced everyday. Our goal is to

add light, love and hope in everything we do and spread positive energy,” says Nada.

UNION SQUARE AND NOA COLLECTION

BABY MALAK COLLECTION

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Saint Laurent’s new campaign, ‘Rue De L’Université’, for its couture collection, is an introduction to the new couture house of Yves Saint Laurent, located in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, from which the campaign name is derived. A three-year renovation project, undertaken by creative director Hedi Slimane, the design follows 18th century French period elements and principles of architecture. Named Hôtel de Sénecterre, the structure was originally built in 1685, by Thomas Gobert - the building planner to King Louis XIV. The original monumental staircase

built under Louis XV, has been given a modern take by New York artist Garth Weiser - with a black and white diptych, while a monumental 18th century crystal chandelier has been restored by Hedi for the staircase. The new geometric garden of the couture house has been entirely replanted with the help of historians, to replicate the precise authenticity of the design. The furniture includes both the house and Hedi’s private collection comprising of modernist, Art Deco and 18th-century French pieces, including a parchment desk that belonged to Yves Saint Laurent by 1930’s designer

Elizabeth Eyre de Lanux. The art collections include paintings of Ad Reinhardt - a black 'Ultimate' painting, a Daniel Buren black and white striped painting and a Carl Andre sculpture. The couture ateliers are located on the third and fourth floor, - ‘L’Atelier Flou’ for dressmaking and ‘L’Atelier Tailleur’ for tailoring. Hedi began to recompose the traditional couture ateliers of the house in 2012, which have now become the centre of the Saint Laurent project. The previous couture house on 5 Avenue Marceau, is now home to La Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent”.

SAINT LAURENT’S COUTURE CAMPAIGN

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The go-getter spirit of the Miu Miu woman has us transfixed every season as we eagerly await what surprises Miuccia Prada has dreamt up. As the playful and whimsical rendition of its more polished sister Prada, Miu Miu has always been on top of the game when it comes to the 'revolving door' trend of fashion. With a zany mixed bags of goodies for its AW2015 collection that sees references to eras from the 60s right through to the present, Miuccia has set her eyes on creating something that allows for the expression of individuality. In comes the special aMiulet project, a series of bags proposed as amulets or talismans for the fashion spirit. Eighteen bags have been

created that feature rich and elaborate construction techniques, and are finished off with quirky and provocative aesthetics. Using unexpected materials that have been taken apart and reassembled to find a unique design perspective, Miu Miu introduces a new craquele leather, while the trusty python skin is mixed with Plexiglass. The collection include briefcases, patina bags, and bowling bags, all in bright eye-catching colours. Each piece, considered more of a fine object rather than a bag, comes with its own dedicated plate of certification. The aMiulet range is now available exclusively in fourteen boutiques worldwide, including Milan, Paris, London, New York and Tokyo.

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THEAMIULET PROJECT

AUTUMN WINTER2015

TAILORING GOES INCREASINGLY

ANDROGYNOUS, THE 80'S REVIVAL IS ALIVE

AND KICKING, AND DUVET-LIKE COATS

GIVE WARMTH.THE SEASON IS

AN ECLECTIC MIX OF CLASHING

INSPIRATIONS.

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Burberry ProrsumAW2015 runway

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EMILIO PUCCI

Peter Dundas’ wizardry is at its finest in his last collection for Pucci, as he takes on a new role at Italian house Roberto Cavalli. The Zodiac

Collection explores a glistening starry night, celebrating the symbols of astrology and the unforeseen powers they behold. Graphic black and

white marks it with a modern urbanity, while also rendering homage to Emilio Pucci’s own black and white collection of the late 1950s. Zodiac iconography is everywhere, creating intriguing, cosmic-laden patterns

that illuminate fade-to-black prints, orbits around silk crepe iconic T-shirt dresses, and shimmers on a dramatic sweeping cape. The new trouser silhouette, with an exaggerated wide leg, creates a bold look, while snug roll-neck sweaters feature three sporty stripes. Evening

pieces exude a Bohemian vibe with gypsy dresses, swing dresses with pearl fringes, and shiny numbers of crushed micro-sequins.

ALICE+OLIVIA

Stacey Bendet draws inspiration from the Biba-enthused days of swinging London and the rock and roll era of the Rolling Stones, taking us back to

the fashion and decor of the late 60s and early 70’. Texture is the new print this season, where flowing dresses are accented with lace details, floral

jacquards are shown in mod shift shapes and graphic diamond designs are seen on wide-leg pants. Layering takes centre stage with an emphasis on

the winter short, often paired with long tops and matching jackets that are artfully styled at Bendet’s hand. Extravagant long coats and pants come in

regal jacquards, while a lengthy brocade vest in gold and blue jacquard with matching pants and a mock neck top—mock necks, especially in lace, form one of the key looks. Mongolian furs are shown over printed dresses, while

trench coats with fur and leather details are paired with graphic printed shorts. A black wide-leg tuxedo looks 70s chic when paired with a silver

embellished mock neck top. “This season is about personal expression. It is about bold femininity. It is about glamour. The clothes have a true rock and

roll vibe, while simultaneously being very romantic,” says Bendet.

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DIOR

“I wanted that feeling of sensory overload in the collection,” explains Raf Simons. “With this animalistic, powerful woman, wearing a new kind of

camouflage.” And through the idea of animals and an abstraction of their patterns, Raf embraces the primal and the patterned, to convey the message of a liberated and hyper-natural world for women. The feminine

tailoring gives away to over-sized masculine elements, in forms of blazers and double-breasted overcoats, while rough masculine tweeds and wool felt comes in opera coats, and long-line outerwear. Abstract

animal patterns appear in knitted jacquard body suits and body harness dresses, while pelts of Canadian fox detail give rise to a real animal

touch. A continuous narrative from the past season’s garden of flowers, Raf moved this collection into the animal realm, referencing the 1947

Christian Dior, where leopard print came to life.

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

In the spirit of the rose, Sarah Burton takes the notion of the female form and deconstructs it to discover the darkly romantic woman

underneath. Her silhouette grows organically in three dimensions, as strong and natural as a rose; a symbol of strength and fragility, forever on

the brink of dishevelment. This is a collection steeped in the frayed nature of reality, and the beauty of imperfection translated through

eaten-away lace, skeletons of dresses, frayed coats and jackets, poetic knits and laddered lace. In colours of crimson, black, deep burgundy and

silver, highlight pieces include pleated leather skirts and dresses, engineered lace cut-out knitted dresses with laddered pleated ruffles,

distressed and shredded silk rose cape coats, 3D leather rosette dresses, and exploded petal-printed organza dresses with frayed edges.

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MOSCHINO

It’s no surprise that Jeremy Scott sent Looney Tunes and friends down the runway this season, after his previous showings that shot Sponge Bob and

Barbie into the fashion-sphere. The classic cartoon characters are juxtaposed with edgy hip hop streetwear, drawing on the rise of urban culture in

mainstream dressing. Colourful, attention-catching and surely not for the faint-hearted, sweaters come emblazoned with bright logos, while denim

patchwork is contrasted with shiny gold details. Pitch in a shot of sportswear: basketball tank tops, hockey jerseys, and baseball stripes. Quilted leather and

nylon puff jackets find root in military and construction work wear, paired with embellished knee-high boots and safety helmets. And what is street culture without graffiti? Scribbles appear haphazardly all over evening dresses of all forms - a sexy off-shoulder kimono number, a ladies-who-lunch A-line piece

and a ballgown worthy of a wedding, complete with matching gloves.

ETRO

Veronica Etro brings forth a collection that circles her family’s twin pursuits: the world of home interiors and fashion. Ornate wallpapers, rich

tapestries and luxurious upholstery textiles, provide a lush canvas and new creative playground for beautifully made clothes. The swirling motifs of

furnishing fabrics are produced through weaving, printing and rich embroideries, while graphic geometrics, inspired by carpet patterns, create a soft optical effect. Paisley makes an appearance within the deep folds of

pleated dresses, with a splayed skirt. A mélange of different materials – jacquards, velvets, sequins, and printed silks – are patched together to create rich, new tapestry effects. A denim jacket is newly configured in slices of five different haberdashery ribbons. Coats are a bricolage of

mohair, embroideries, jacquards, or suede, leather and exotic skins. Sharply cut shapes are clean and exacting, allowing for precise silhouettes.

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BOTTEGA VENETA

“This is not about meticulous dressing, but taking a bit of a bolder approach when it comes to pattern and colour,” says creative director Tomas Maier. “The collection explores the possibilities of beautifully made clothes that

express your own individual creativity.” In giving rise to a nonchalant sense of style, Tomas puts together unexpected combinations, to highlight a

personal take on dressing. The palette is dominated by bright shades of green, teal, yellow, red, and byzantine violet, and is finished off with pale

colours of petal pink, camel, and mist. Materials are luxurious, as always with the brand, wools that are compact and in various weights, matte technical

crepes and jerseys, and denim. With a little crossover from the men’s collection, the silhouette is precise with dominant pants and shoulders. The

new Monaco bag juxtaposes a rigid flap with a soft body, while shoes are square-toed, multi-buckled, and low, for the woman on-the-go.

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LANVIN

“The homage to Jeanne Lanvin at the Museum Galliera museum made me feel the need to go back to my own roots, to Morocco, where I was born,”

says Alber Elbaz. This is a collection evoking the spirit of a nomad travelling into the dry and warm desert of Morocco. A lean and oversized silhouette that is both masculine and feminine, there’s a certain element that is both

raw and precious in the constructions. Pieces are collarless and button-less, like a vest in oversized Tibetan goat, or a long sharp-edged blanket coat. The welcoming warmth of the desert comes to life through the colour palette of honey, pomegranate, cinnamon, and the grey and black of sun-baked earth.

Under striped woollen capes, brocade chiffon dresses come with passementerie belts, silk braiding, plaited tassels, toggle fastenings and gold

cords. The season also sees the launch of a mini version of the house’s Sugar bag, which has been reworked for practicality. Two pockets provide

space for the essentials, especially as a companion for travelling.

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FENDI

Karl Lagerfeld contemplates on decades of collaboration with Fendi and presents a collection that is meant to take the brand into the future. It is all

modern, and dictates relevancy to a new way of dressing for the current generation, one of the more successful efforts by brands to connect the past to the present. Colours of rust, saffron, and geometric prints, are inspired by

the Swiss artist Sophie Taeuber, with cuts that are straight and long. The materials structure the silhouette with the play of appliquéd leather panels on the side of a skirt, while patchwork fur introduces a new graphic element

to the coats. Dresses and puff jackets are voluminous, shearling warms up the bottoms of the trousers, and leather breastplate detail white shirts.

The house’s 3Baguette bag also gets a new update with the 3Baguette Chain, a boxy rendition that comes with a chain handle. The update is concurrent

with the vision of the collection, for a young and contemporary woman with a cool and urban attitude. The double FF buckle has been innovated to rotate into tiny scattered lines, to open and close the bag, giving the FF logo

a functional element, to its decorative predecessor version. Crafted in leather, the bag comes in a variety of pop colours and embellishments,

while the chain is available in both gold and silver.

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QATAR’S DESIGNER DU JOUR COMES BACK THIS SEASON WITH A COLLECTION THAT RETURNS TO HER SIGNATURE MONOCHROME BLACK AND WHITE SETTING THE TONE

FOR A SOPHISTICATED MINIMALIST COLLECTION.

Cut from lush velvet, silk gazar, organza, crepe, or neoprene, Wadha Al Hajri tells the story of confident, independent and powerful women - a reflection on the growing

empowerment of women in the country. “I refer to it as my Muse Collection, because it is inspired by the beauty, femininity and strong personality of one of my favourite

artists,” she says. The collection is available at www.wadha.co & www.bysymphony.com

MuseCOLLECTION

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The monochrome palette serves as the perfect backdrop for the designer’s architectural cuts, featuring dramatic trapeze-shaped tops and cape dresses. Wadha’s woman has always cultivated a sense mystery, favouring restrained feminine

dresses and separates. This can be seen in the artful placement of a cut-out to highlight the wearer's back, or the contradiction

found in a high-buttoned shirt rendered in gossamer fabric.

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Wadha has also focused on more fitted shapes with a hint of masculine tailoring. Cut close to the body while still allowing for ease

of movement, each look in the collection highlights fine craftsmanship.

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Her signature hand-embroidered geometric patterns and latticework cut-outs, are part of the designer’s

ongoing exploration of unique surface embellishments and techniques.

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MINDOVER

METALSTRONG AND BOLD PIECES THAT

EVOKE ARCHITECTURAL LINES AND INDUSTRIAL RAWNESS GIVE NEW

MEANING TO ACCESSORISING.BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

On an outfit that demand little attention, Monica Sordo’s jewellery pieces drum the loudest. Two-tone metal cuffs or a layered gold fringe necklace that runs all the way down the bust, seem more museum exhibition-worthy rather than on the your average street-style star. But these statement-making pieces weren’t made for the ordinary woman either - it is a leap into a generation of women who are powerful and self-assured of their own beauty and strength. These are traits that the designer herself portrays, through her vastly colourful experience in the fashion industry, that finally led her into the creation of her own jewellery label. Having moved to Milan at the age of eighteen to pursue her fashion training at Istituto Marangoni, Monica had the opportunity to meet heavyweights the likes of Miuccia Prada, Giorgio Armani and Franca Sozzani. “It was a different time then. There was no social media, no bloggers, and everything and everyone was very approachable in a city like Milano. It was such a great experience, which is so different from today,” the designer reminiscences.

She had her eye set on the fashion editor ranks and took a job with Marie Claire Spain after her Milan stint. Five years later, the designer moved to New York to join the Christian Louboutin PR team and in early 2012, she finally pursued her calling. “I had an immediate strong connection with brass and took on the challenge of creating with such a strong material. In jewellery, I found a language, a new way to communicate,” she

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The distinctive metal collections have won over legions of style-makers who have strong fashion views, so it is no wonder that the brand quickly became a favourite for magazine editorials. Earlier this year, the brand began its Middle Eastern adventure, becoming available for the first time in Harvey Nichols Dubai. “My trip to Dubai and its stunning mix of historical and ultra-modern architecture, would certainly be of great inspiration for one of my upcoming collections.”

What is it about Art Deco and architecture that draws you? I have found infinite inspiration and in a city like New York, you can breathe it every day - its overdose of lines, angles and skylines. The industrial looks come from my father’s workshop and my passion for vintage machinery and tools. I am really fascinated by how massive machines are built and what they are capable of doing. I love the rusty tones of the metals they are made of. I find beauty in big masses and try to represent that in a stylish and minimal way in my jewellery. Working in Lima with Peruvian artisans, has somehow influenced my design, which carries a bit of an Inca flair. I have always said that inspiration is something very personal, and for me, it is a

says. It was also familial ties that helped; Monica’s father runs an industrial workshop, working with wood, metal and tools. “After studying at the Gemological Institute of America in jewellery design, I continued my training in my dad’s workshop where he taught me a lot about the manufacturing process.”

The brand’s debut collection, themed Concrete Jungle, paid homage to New York by reinterpreting the city’s skyline. Working off the facets of aquamarine stalagmites, Monica recreated the stones in brass, through a complex process using metal bars and a milling machine, resulting in the signature faceted spikes. “This is when my

affair began with skylines and architecture, evolving into pieces like the Kavanagh cuff and the Empire choker, both inspired by the tip of landmark buildings of the Art Deco period,” she says. In Buenos Aires, Monica fell in love with the majestic and imposing Kavanagh building, while the Anuket collection finds roots in the goddess of the Nile River. “She is considered the Lady of Heaven, who used jewellery as a sign of power, beauty and femininity, and to offer protection.”

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melting pot of experiences that accumulate from my life. Take us behind-the-scenes of your work.All the pieces are handmade in our Caracas workshop and in Lima where I work with a small group of artisan who are silversmiths and goldsmiths. My design process is very intimate, I’m a sketcher, and to develop a piece, I draw over and over again from a very simple sketch on a napkin, to a full tech drawing. I find that by repetition, I get what I really want and see the piece evolve, until it clicks. A piece of jewellery must be beautiful, but also functional and comfortable. I am obsessed with pieces that completely cage the arm or neck and there is a lot of engineering behind this. Designing for me is always a challenge and seeing the final result is a great reward.

How do you think this fits into Middle Eastern aesthetics? Our pieces are very unique because of their size and boldness. It is a piece of custom jewellery that is handmade with fine finishing, using a very high-end manufacturing process. It is hard to find pieces of this dimension, quality and design, and I think this will appeal to the Middle Eastern woman.

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SPANISH MARKETS COME TO LIFE WITH THE DEBUT COLLECTION OF DINA KHALIFÉ.

IN THE MARKETBY DEBRINA ALIYAH

FASHION / 59

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designer, Dina Khalifé, taps into the vibrancy of Spain’s heart with her Autumn Winter 2015 collection, that finds its soul in the hustle and bustle of Spanish markets. The fashion and accessory designer moved to Madrid half a decade ago, after falling in love with the city. In this debut fashion collection, Dina presents modern and feminine silhouettes that are adorned with prints of her own illustrations, with lively scenes of crowds, floral motifs and stylised interpretations of market food.

The colour palette is reminiscent of the shades of fruit and vegetables found at market stalls, and the collection is a carefully edited selection of key wardrobe pieces, including long-line shift dresses, sweetly tailored separates with matching prints, and ladylike tops with playful details such as peplum frills. Matching accessories include printed scarves with delicately hand rolled edges and limited-edition handmade necklaces that echo the motifs from the prints.

What is the essence of the label? I like to portray beauty and magic in ordinary things. The idea is to transform hand-drawn prints into beautiful clothes and accessories that are simple, elegant and easy to wear. Fashion is something that has always been on my mind. When I was working for Bimba & Lola, I realised that the experience has given me great confidence to venture on my own. I decided to quit my full time job and start the brand. I heard about Starch, a foundation based in Beirut, that helps emerging Lebanese designers in developing their creative work, and this is how the first collection was born.

What’s the story behind the collection? I was inspired by the food markets in Spain, the main protagonists are prints with crowds, food and bold colours. The collection conveys the jovial atmosphere and eye-catching details one can experience when visiting those

spaces. Patterns portray convivial scenes from interacting visitors, sophisticated stands and exquisite fruit and vegetables displays. What sparked your journey into fashion?Since I was a child, I was passionate about drawing. Later, I started to collect fabrics with colourful patterns. Both my mother and grandmother used to embroider beautiful textiles at home. In 2009, I did my masters degree in textile design and surfaces at the Istituto Europeo di Design Madrid.Afterwards, I worked for the Spanish fashion house Bimba & Lola, as an accessory designer. The experience was very important since it is a brand with hundreds of shops around the world. The exposure was very enriching. I am lucky and thankful to live in a country with so much inspiration. These days, I’m inspired by the books I’m reading, nature, interaction with people, travel, museums, and food.

What’s the design process like? The fabrics are all hand-drawn and hand-painted in-house. The collection is producedin limited runs by local artisans in Terrassa, an area in Spain known for its textiles and fine printing techniques.

How do you relate this back to the Middle East? The brand is characterised by colourful prints with strong attention to detail. Coming from the Middle East, and living in Europe, is an advantage because of the understanding of the Middle Eastern market and its audience. Also, having the collection produced in Europe in small runs by local artisans, makes the quality of each product exclusive and unique. Middle Eastern women give great importance to their physical appearance: they like to dress up and wear unique clothes. They encourage young designers from the region and they feel proud to wear their pieces.

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Lebanese

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Vanessa Seward has put her life and soul into a venture that has been a long time

coming - her namesake label.

FINISHINGTOUCH

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Last autumn, Vanessa Seward joined a small group of designers in debuting their collections in Paris. But though it was her first solo presentation, the

designer has had countless fashion week hours with Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Azzaro. The collection laid the foundation of a comprehensive wardrobe, based on Seward’s own life and style, and is a narration of her journey

of finding the balance of how women dress. “It’s difficult to be chic in your everyday life. For a long time, I didn’t know how to achieve this. After working in couture houses, I wanted to make this elegance accessible,” Vanessa says. Classic pieces that have come to define Seward’s signature style are rediscovered in luxurious prints, subtle femininity, touches of lame and well-tailored denim. Details include enamel buttons, grosgrain trims and golden hardware. “I pay tribute to the contemporary woman, with whom

I identify. This collection is dedicated to her. It’s not a concept or a cliché, but a recommendation to help her face her daily life with an extra boost of confidence.” The launch of her new label is backed by the founder of A.P.C, Jean Touitou, with whom Vanessa has had several capsule collaborations in recent years. The cherry on top is an expansion plan that will include standalone stores. Net-A-Porter has launched the label’s collection online, with a special selection that is geared for the woman on-the-go.

Q&AHas it been your long-term goal to launch an eponymous label?It was more of a dream, but I knew that without the right partner it is very difficult to do. I also think that I wasn’t ready, my last experience collaborating with A.P.C. taught me a lot on casual clothing. So

when Jean Touitou proposed we do it after working together on six collaborations, it was a dream made true.

Who is the Vanessa Seward customer?I think she’s a woman who’s looking for well-cut clothes that make her look good, without outshining her personality.

How do you go about the design process?I start with my personal needs and I’m also inspired by the stylish women who

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surround me. I work closely with my team on the structure of the collection and then I tell my story.

What was your inspiration for the AW15 collection?My life! I wanted the collection to be as personal as possible, so I was inspired by my childhood in London, my life in Paris, and my Argentine roots.

Why did you choose to partner with Net-A-

Porter for the launch? Net-A-Porter had carried my collections for Azzaro, and I admire their selection and incredible fashion sense,so it was really important for me that they were the retail partner.

What are your personal highlights from the collection?The long shearling coat (I’ve been looking for one for ages!), the denim blazer and the clover print dress.

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