MANAGING EDITOR SINDHU NAIR FASHION EDITOR DEBRINA ALIYAH DEPUTY EDITORS EZDHAR IBRAHIM ALI SRINIVASAN V L SENIOR CORRESPONDENTS ABIGAIL MATHIAS AYSWARYA MURTHY PHOTOGRAPHER ROBERT ALTAMIRANO SUB EDITOR SHELLEY KNIPE

SENIOR ART DIRECTOR VENKAT REDDY DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR HANAN ABU SIAM ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR AYUSH INDRAJITH SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER MAHESHWAR REDDY B

SENIOR MANAGER MARKETING FREDRICK ALPHONSO MANAGER MARKETING SAKALA A DEBRASS ASSISTANT MANAGER MARKETING HASSAN REKKAB MATHEWS CHERIAN SONY VELLATT NAMRATA KAPOOR SENIOR MEDIA CONSULTANT DENZITA SEQUEIRA

SENIOR ACCOUNTANT PRATAP CHANDRAN SENIOR DISTRIBUTION EXECUTIVE BIKRAM SHRESTHA DISTRIBUTION SUPPORT ARJUN TIMILSINA BHIMAL RAI BASANTHA P

PUBLISHER AND EDITORINCHIEF YOUSUF JASSEM AL DARWISH CHIEF EXECUTIVE SANDEEP SEHGAL EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT ALPANA ROY VICE PRESIDENT RAVI RAMAN

GLAM IS PUBLISHED BY ORYX ADVERTISING CO. WLL.THE CONTENTS OF THIS PUBLICATION ARE SUBJECT TO COPYRIGHT AND CANNOT BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT THE EXPRESS PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHER AND/OR LICENSE HOLDER. ALL RIGHTS REST WITH DATALOG

MEDIA SOLUTIONS. THE PUBLISHER DOES NOT ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY ADVERTISING CONTENTS CARRIED IN THIS PUBLICATION.

CONTACT INFO@OMSQATAR.COM, GLAM@OMSQATAR.COM WWW.ISSUU.COM/ORYXMAGS

WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/GLAMQATARCALL US: +974 44550983, 44672139, 44671178, 44667584 FAX: +974 44550982

GLAMSOCIAL MEDIA

Disneys live-action feature, Cinderella, brings the studios 1950 animated

masterpiece to life. The costumes and accessories are key elements designed by

Sandy Powell. Salvatore Ferragamo also lent a hand to design the shoes for Lady

Tremaine, played by Cate Blanchett. Sandy and Ferragamos Massimiliano Giornetti

created pumps, lace-up shoes and boots. View Sandys sketches and behind-the-scene

footage from the movie on our FB Page.

COMING UP

EVENTS OF THE MONTHQatar International Fashion Festival 2015

March 19th and 20thSheraton Doha Resort and Convention Hotel The festival features a two-day exhibition and

a feature fashion show focused on South Asian designers. Founded by Sana Salman, the event will introduce fashion designers

and models from South Asia including Asim Jofa, Adnan Pardesy, Goal, Hamna Amir,

Shazias Bridal Gallery, Umer Sayeed, Umsha Couture and Waseem Noor, to the Qatar market. QIFF is linked to our previous

exhibitions and events, which were held to introduce the Pakistani products and

designers to the Qatar market, to attract the locals and expats, Sana says.

What couture pieces will the stars be wearing for the next big red carpet event?

We review the major Spring/Summer 2015 couture collections, including our regions very own Rami Al Ali, who has been steadily gaining traction at the

prestigious Haute Couture week.

G TalkEvery dress either appeals to or appalls different sets of eyes. Award season was in full-swing over the last couple of weeks, culminating in the much-anticipated Oscars red carpet, and while opinions differ on the sartorial choices of the celebrities, one common verdict prevails: They were uninteresting. Harsh, perhaps, or just a playing it safe trend sweeping Hollywoods best stylists? There certainly is no lack of gorgeous creations from the couture shows, but we have yet to spy any on our favourite actresses.

On the contrary, the style quotient at fashion week front rows is higher than ever. It seems thats where celebrities are more likely to take risks and experiment with seasonal trends. Scarlett Johansson sparkled in an all-gold shimmering mini dress at Tom Ford, Khloe Kardashian did a sheer barely-there outfit for Kanye Wests Adidas presentation, and Taylor Swift went for a polished society look at Oscar de la Renta.

Could this be a sign of the fashion evolution that is shifting the focus to the street rather than on the pedestal red carpet? After all, it is so much more aspirational for the masses to see a fur bomber jacket worn by Rita Ora, than a multi-layer organza tulle gown worn to an award show. This relevance is not lost in the Spring/Summer 2015 collections that debut this month. Pared down silhouettes, plenty of separates and highly emphasised key pieces seem to be the formula for most designers, making it easy for us to covet the IT items for the season.

We make the transition to the streets as well to explore the fascinating world of urbanwear and its rise in the region. Fashions athleisure moment finds its roots in an urban movement and Dubais players and movers tell us how the lifestyle is shaping their sartorial choices. In anticipation of Art Dubai and Art for Tomorrow, fashion and art come together in a special collaboration between Bil Arabi and Dohas own Desert Mannequin. The duo explores the inner strength of women, an idea shared by filmmaker Alice Rohrwacher in her latest movie for Miu Mius Womens Tales. We salute the strength in us all to always be ready for change, be it in the wardrobe or in our daily lives.

EDITORS PICKNYFWS STAR SHOW WAS PROBABLY KANYE WESTS COLLABORATION WITH ADIDAS ORIGINALS - YEEZY SEASON 1. WITH A STAR-STUDDED FRONT ROW WHICH INCLUDED BEYONCE, RIHANNA AND ANNA WINTOUR. THE PIECES ARE DEFINED AS SOLUTIONS-BASED CLOTHING. I DONT WANT THE CLOTHES TO BE THE LIFE, KANYE SAYS. I WANT THE CLOTHES TO HELP THE LIFE.

SAVEVS

SPLURGE

SAVE1 Fringed batwing top, QR124. 2 Cropped tank, QR62.3 Lace embroidered top, QR74. 4 Floral boat-neck top, QR82.5 Fringed maxi skirt, QR41. 6 Lace overlay bell bottoms, QR101.All items available from H&M at Villaggio and Landmark Mall.

FREE SPIRITThere lives in all of us a little bit of the bohemian chic spirit. The days that all

you want is to kick off your heels, let your hair down and dance on a beach. Though the trend has somewhat become a clich

and is often associated with a hippie lifestyle of youth and abandon, the finer

sartorial elements have been making a reappearance on the catwalk. Light

waves of fringes on hems, vibrant floral prints, subtle tribal motifs and batwing

silhouettes make for a dreamy feminine outlook. In welcoming the spring season,

dont forget the requisite flower crown when you head out into the sun.

DEBRINA ALIYAH

5

3

6

6

SPLURGE1 Baja printed silk-chiffon jumpsuit, QR772, Tory Burch, The Outnet. 2 Knitted batwing top, QR3660, CH Carolina Herrera, Villaggio Mall. 3 Kaftan dress, QR2,944, Dima Ayad, www.dimaayad.com 4 Silk panel top, QR1,442, Paule Ka, www.pauleka.com5 Tropical silk pants, QR779, Weill, www.weill.com 6 Floral print top, QR1,009, Weill, www.weill.com

1 1

2

2 26 \ TRENDS

Desigual Spring Summer 2015

4 4

3

5

MARCH 2015GLAM / ON OUR

RADAR AN EDIT OF THINGS THAT ARE HOT NOW

Occasion wear brand Jacques Vert debuts in the Middle East this season with its Spring Summer 2015 collection. Luxury lace tops, layered chiffon dresses, high-waisted palazzo pants and boleros form a chic edit ideal for the modern womans social calendar, a niche that is a signature of the designer. Hand-painted florals, created exclusively by Jacques Verts in-house artist, bloom across shift dresses, whilst Holly Golightly-inspired laser

cuts and monochrome scallop-edge details add a touch of vintage chic. Following two successful collaborations with the label, Rachel Trevor-Morgan, milliner to The Queen of England, has designed an exclusive range of elegantly structured headwear in ladylike tones of champagne, shell pink, powder blue and black, and are accented with beading, feathers, flowers and delicate netting. The collaboration arrives in stores just in time for the racing season in the region.

JACQUES VERT X RACHEL TREVOR-MORGAN

29

CHANEL PREMIERE ROCK

Chanel brings a touch of rock n roll to its new watch line, Premire Rock, which combines the

sophistication inherent to the house with a younger, more modern and more rebellious side. The watches in this new collection are based on Chanels classic Premire model, but are updated with a number of

design details to create an edgier, more contemporary rock n roll style. The collection consists of four

models: the Premire Rock Mtal with a double-wrap steel chain bracelet and a black lacquered dial and the Premire Rock Rose, Beige or Bleu with a triple-wrap bracelet interlaced with dyed leather and a mother-of-pearl dial. All models come with a high-precision quartz movement and indicate hours and minutes.

ONE OF ONE CYBILL BAG

To celebrate Aigners 50th anniversary this year, the house is releasing fifty limited edition Cybill

bags, which are all unique versions of the signature tote. The special edition, One of One, encompasses

the clear and elegant stylistic elements of the house. Each bag is handmade in Italy and has

its own unique look, and the lining of each bag is scripted with a signature of its unique limited

edition number. The materials include snake, lizard and crocodile leather, as well as ostrich, skate and

pony fur, while the colours range from earthy tones such as cognac, beige and sand, right through to

bright tones of red, pink and sky blue. The interplay of materials and colours result in variations of

camouflage, such as lion and houndstooth, that give each bag its own identity. The Qatar edition, Fairytale, is a medley of textures and blue shades.

MIU MIU ASTRO RUNNING

Bejewelled and playfully cute in appearance, the new Miu Miu Astro running shoe has us wanting

to hit the race track. Giving form and shine to a classic shape, the design is a culmination of

the houses fine craftsmanship and sportiness. Form and function come into play resulting in a shoe that is light, soft and flexible to wear. The articulated rubber sole, sourced in the Miu Miu archive, has been reinvented with the addition

of little round nubs, inspired by a whimsical combination of part baby hedgehog and part sea creature in appearance. The upper is crafted in a technical satin that is entirely hand-embroidered

with constellations of sequins and crystal. The neck of the shoe is cut in sock-like neoprene to

ensure a close fit. The shoe is available exclusively in the region, only at Miu Miu Villaggio Mall and

Level Shoe District Dubai Mall.

30

Whether it is the Dot design inspired by the British artist Damien Hirsts Spot Paintings, the Mashrabiya designs inspired from the architecture of the buildings in the Middle Eas,t or the Colour Carvings inspired by the Cut-Outs of French artist Henri Matisse, there is an art story behind each piece of Mario Uboldi Jewellery Art. The fine jewellery brand was founded by Dubai-based architect and artist Andr C. Meyerhans

as a tribute to his grandfather Mario Uboldi. The Zurich-born architect, who designed Dubais Garhoud Bridge, blurs the boundaries between jewellery and art by blending the language of contemporary art, design and architecture from Middle Eastern culture and fuses it into various forms of jewellery. Each piece is handcrafted in solid precious metals and gem stones, and are individually numbered and registered.

MARIO UBOLDI JEWELLERY ART

32

Model (left) wears Piou-Piou Clip and Fort merveilleuse clip while model (right) wears the Miroir enchant necklace and

detachable clip. All jewellery from Van Cleef & Arpels.

THE BRIGHTEST STONES, THE DEEPEST COLOURS AND FINEST TECHNIQUES REAFFIRMED OUR LOVE FOR ALL THINGS SHINY

AT THE 2015 DOHA JEWELLERY AND WATCHES EXHIBITION.

INFINITYGEMS

Rubellite and diamond necklace from the Red

Carpet collection as worn by Rihanna, Chopard.

Gold and diamond Kate bangles, Messika Joaillerie.

Knuckle ring from the White Noise collection, Repossi.

Fish pendants in pink and yellow gold with enamel and diamonds, Leo Pizzo.

Geo Graham London pocket watch, Graham.

Tourbillon Fleur Magnolia watch, Richard Mille.

FASHION / 33

34

Pearl necklace from the Tresors collection,

Robert Wan.

Reine Makeda earrings with Mozambique

rubies, Cartier.

St-Tropez DiamondsRose Gold watch, Charriol.

The 4-shaped necklace from the Silhouette

collection, Mouawad.

Promise ring from the Promise collection,

Stefan Hafner.

Bar En Corolle emerald bracelet, Dior.

Blue and yellow sapphires and

yellow diamond earrings,

Chaumet.

Rewaya ring in ruby pearls, QELA.

FASHION / 35

Champagne diamonds smartphone from the

Jardin Secret Collection, Savelli.

Stackable and interchangeable pendants fromthe Totem Pendant Collection, David Webb.

The Lion ring from theLes Intemporels collection, CHANEL Haute Jewellery.

18 karat pink salmon topaz bangle, Suzanne Kalan.

Floral motif diamond neck piece,

Jaipur Gems.

Bora Aksu SS15

TRENDS / 41

SPRING SUMMER

2015FREEDOM IN

MOVEMENT, ART CROSSOVERS

AND THE INTERPRETATION OF PERCEPTIONS GIVE

DIRECTION TO THE BLOSSOMINGNEW SEASON.

Two things made impactful first impressions: the eel leather high boots and the updated cushiony Petite Malle. The Petite Malle, of course, is the new emblematic trunk-shaped clutch introduced by Nicolas Ghesquire when he took over the creative reins at Louis Vuitton, and this season, it comes in an adorable soft-to-touch texture. The clothing is a signature-shaping progression at play for Ghesquire. Though diverse, with influences of British school grounds, touches of bohemian

romantic, psychedelic references of the 70s and prints of pop-art; the narrow silhouettes and woven embroideries are familiar grounds from last season. Leather innovation is at the forefront as a constant nod to the houses heritage, appearing as detailing and finishing, perforated motifs and paired with unexpected materials like scuba. The LV woman heralds only boots this spring, either ankle or high versions with heels that are sculptured with monogram flowers and star shapes.

42

Louis Vuitton

Denim patchwork boots

Twist Malletage

TRENDS / 43

The new soft-to-touch version of Petite Malle

Hand Jewel

Pop Chips Earrings in White

44

Salvatore Ferragamo

Paying homage to Italian Murano glass craftsmanship, Massimiliano Giornetti brings the vivid colour and graphic formation from the technique into this collection. Playing with textures - handled, cut, frayed, and melted the focus is on the work of hand and the unique touch that comes with each individual piece. The silhouette is almost bare skin, skimming close to the body with invisible waistlines. For a touch of subtle sexiness, halter necks reveal the

shoulders and voluminous trousers give just a peek at calves. Pouch coats and short capes are fastened at the waist with reptile-leather belts thatare crafted from structural woven fabrics reminiscent of Salvatores original use of materials. Accessories feature actual Murano glass with bracelets, chains and clutches hand-blown by craftsmen. The iconic rainbow wedge from the houses archive makes a black appearanceas a sandal in the collection.

TRENDS / 45

Scribbles, strokes and splashes form the main print narrative for the collection, sometimes bordering on graffiti-like chaotic colours. Donna Karan brings influences from around the world - India, Bali, and Haiti to meet in the heart of New York, which she calls her palette and her fuel. A culture that empowers creativity, she says. The prints come to life through an urban chic vibe - pieces sculpted in paper cotton, stretch canvas and organza, and rings of casual silhouettes

like rolled-sleeved shirts and boat-neck t-shirts. Get crafty as tops are meant to be folded, tucked, and twisted, while bottoms are adorned with the ever so trendy flounce. Theres a handwoven tweed jacket that resembles Indian handicraft work, while tiny bra tops are paired with voluminous skirts. In accessories, wedges are sexily sculpted, totes are unique one-off handpainted pieces and there are some crazy hats designed by Stephen Jones that would definitely make Pharrell happy.

Donna Karan

46

Lanvin

The Lanvin woman in Spring is serene, regal and unpretentious. Someone who values her freedom and comfort in an Urban Eden, as the collection is named. This sense of freedom comes from the fluid movements that transpire from the cuts and draping of the pieces. A gown is worn naturally as a t-shirt, crumpled woven linen suits are paired with supple trench coats and silk satin dresses are terracotta-washed for a sense of nonchalance. Shades

of grey, khaki, ecru and nude form the main palette while little details of nets, slits, eyelets and jewelled straps complete the pieces, which are strikingly simple, yet classy. The sense of ease also comes from experience, as designer Alber Elbaz had iconic names like Kirsten Owen, Amber Valletta and Violetta Sanchez take the runway, proving the importance of the woman who wears the dress and not the dress that wears the woman.

TRENDS / 47

A torn suede dress, Oro, opens the runway show, presenting the houses signature hue in a new way that encapsulates a nascent woman. The dress symbolises something deeper, a coming together of the past, present and future of the house, which is currently experiencing a new dawn with J.W. Anderson. Lightness is a key theme in the collection, with the house exploring ways in which leather becomes fluid in appearance, with a sense of airiness. Silhouettes are defined by

ease and softness, punctuated with sharp, unexpected elements like the placement of a knot, the way a classic scarf print from the archive is transposed onto latex, or the calculated asymmetry of a skirt. The introduction of a new bag was expected and so in comes Puzzle, a new cubic bag which can be worn in at least five ways. The deconstructed signature element of the house comes into play to present this new iconic bag that seems to mould into different fits.

Loewe

48

Marc Jacobs

I quite like the idea of how things are perceived. How people look at things and peoples interpretation of them, in and out of context, says Marc Jacobs. The perception for this collection is relooking at a familiar military palette, which the designer has taken out of context and put into high fashion shapes with couture techniques. Using a neutral-based colour palette seen in classic army and surplus clothing, key pieces include wool

gabardine dresses, long silk shirt dresses featuring front patch pockets and epaulettes, wool mlange suiting in military green and blue and large patch pocket mini-skirts with army shirting featuring guipure embroidery. Resin cabochons highlighted the hems and necklines of jackets and cotton twill pleated dresses. The flat slide sandals that accompanied most of the looks were a contrasting element, in colours ranging from ivory to gold, with paved buckles.

TRENDS / 49

Images of war-torn Paris led me to think about how Parisians had to be resourceful with their wardrobe and customise and rethink their clothes, says artistic director Peter Copping. He brings the idea of make do and mend to this collection, referencing the post-war period in 1946 when Madame Ricci and her son Robert created scale models of couture dresses to promote French fashion. The spirit of DIY couture is further

enhanced by taking inspiration from Louise Bourgeois textile works from the same period. Using menswear pieces, Peter reworks the silhouette to be long and lean with military references. While day dresses are easy and fluid, evening pieces feature interwoven laces, laser-cut flowers and jet beading. The house collaborated with jewellery designer Sonia Boyajian by featuring archive pieces alongside the collection.

Nina Ricci

50

Victoria Beckham

Following the opening of the first Victoria Beckham store in London late last year, the designer has definitely nailed down the essence of her label a modern sense of purpose and precision in dressing women. As much as it is in developing a fashion business, it is also a reflection of the designers own journey in finding the perfect balance of injecting her signature with new techniques and silhouettes. It has pushed me to focus on the DNA of the brand. Informed by these new shapes was

the idea of creating an eclectic uniform in a wearable wardrobe that embodies the evolution of the collection, she explains. Soft flouncy raincoats and ribbed-knit dresses and skirts are accentuated with patch pockets and leather waist belts. Victoria also introduces her own shoe line this season. Creating all elements of the collection under one roof enabled me to complete and strengthen the silhouette and this has been key in the design journey for me.

TRENDS / 51

Spontaneity and letting go marks a departure from the usually directional visions of Phoebe Philo in her creations. I wanted a feeling of things which could be given, borrowed, touches of things you might have collected, she comments on the collection, which reflects a more open approach to how women dress. Fabrics are varied with versatile silhouettes that are anchored by monochrome black and white shades,

and highlighted by strong floral prints. Fluidity is the key for separate pieces: wide flare leg trousers, t-shirt-shaped dresses, and tunics worn over pants and skirts. The continuity of previous narratives, however, is still present in sharp details like contrast stitching and arm belts. And who would consider Cline, without the statement coats and knitwear; staunchly represented by a gorgeous hand knitted macram dress.

Cline

52

Dsquared2

Mediums of art find a fit in this collection, with coats, pants and skirts that have sculpture-like forms and prints inspired by iconic art styles of colour-blocking and Aztec graphic patterns. Dean and Dan also turn up the volume on shapes, form and proportion in billowing floor-length skirts, voluminous sweartshirts and oversized boyfriends jeans. Pleated ruffles take centrestage in giving new form to long skirts and short tunics

that blossom with multiple layers of intricately pleated fabric in vibrant hues of ochre, teal and red.

The dramatic pieces are then casually paired with sporty t-shirts or polo shorts. There were a few looks with bright sparks of feathers including a fully-feathered tote bag. A long raffia silk coat with gigantic circle prints is one of our favourites, and so is the latticed leatherwork thigh-high boots.

TRENDS / 53

An extension from last seasons couture, Raf Simons continues to explore the relationship of past and future in this collection, by blurring the lines between the traditions of haute couture and ready-to-wear. By beginning with the ingredients and the form language of couture, I went further by making ready-to-wear feel more dynamic and real. I wanted it to be made available to a wider audience, he explains. 18th century court coats merge with street

aesthetics of skaters shorts and godet dresses, Edwardian longline coats are reinterpreted in washed silk satins and thick calf leather, and traditional silk jacquards appear side-by-side with modern micro jacquards in a digital grid. The challenge was to bring the attitude of contemporary reality to something historical, and bringing easiness to something that could be perceived as theatrical. It is the attitude that matters, Raf says.

Dior

PLEATS Everybody seemed to beat it, from Massimo Nicosiaat Pringle of Scotland who opened his show with a sporty pleated skirt, to Christopher Kane who worked pleats paired with rope motifs across his collection. At Thomas Tait,who was showing his first collection since his LVMH prize win, pleats jutted out at asymmetric angles from models hips and were also draped across the torso on the diagonal.

SHEER Both Mary Katrantzou and Erdem used sheer silk as a

foundation for layers of further embellishment;

florals, feathers and trellis motifs for Moralioglu at

Erdem and ancient fish and lizards for Katrantzou. Tom Ford went for a sexy, direct

approach, sending out models in full sheer tops with built-in sequin nipple covers. Antonio Berardi shone with a dgrad

tuxedo jacket which started transparent at the shoulders

but was inky black and opaque at the waist. Even Armani did

diaphanous, both below and above the waist, although his

take on the bra-free trend was predictably at the discreet

rather than full-frontal end of the scale.

FLORAL REMIX At Issa, there were black and white abstract daisies, while at Mulberry there was an ultramodern twist on honeycomb patterns and classic floral. All those flowers got a geometric, early 20th century rendering at the hands of Peter Pilotto, while House of Holland had a retro 60s and 70s flower-power vibe.

KEYTRENDS

Christopher Kane

Mulberry

Giorgio ArmaniTom FordAntonio Berardi

TRENDS / 55

FLARES AND FRINGESEtro turned on the tassle factor with a series of bead-heavy outfits that channeled Pocahontas. Anna Sui, Tory Burch and Jeremy Scott all looked to the 60s and 70s for different interpretations. Scott went maximalist with his use of slogans and vibrant prints, riffing on a cartoonish version of California hippie culture. Suis look at the psychedelic rock gods of that era was more refined and dreamy. Tory Burch went retro with a mix of her usual preppy pep, and a folky twist on the last century through the lens of artist Franoise Gilot.

BARBIE DOLL RETROMoschinos overt working of the Barbie doll lookwas retro in more ways than one, while the likes of DSquared2 and Max Mara explored the not that pretty but smart side of 70s sex appeal: the latter taking direct inspiration from Anjelica Houstons unconventional beauty.

TRELLIS PRINTFrom last season, the trellis pattern reappeared on the runway this spring as a bolder update. At 3.1 Phillip Lim, the designer took his cue fromthe quilting on mattresses, working the trellis check throughout his collection. Elizabeth & James also employed the effect in the brands city-meets-surfpieces, most notably on their stunning semi-sheer shirts. Meanwhile at Proenza Schouler, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez opened with a thick trellis reworking of the classic plaid shirt and then used the pattern in perforated leather pieces.

URBAN MINIMALISMSporty, pared-back take on urban clothing remains dominant. Rag & Bone were key proponents, sending out slick and minimalist versions of summer coats, trenches and utility jackets. Victoria Beckham worked a similar vibe, but broke up her clothes clean lines with some brighter prints and colour. Tim Coppens was among the designers including Hood By Air who added a punkier element, and worked with New York Citys street wear heritage.

Anna Sui

Etro

Max Mara

Rag and Bone

Elizabeth & James

Phillip Lim

Moschino

MIU MIUS SPRING SUMMER 2015 COLLECTION COMES TO LIFE.

EXCEPTIONIN THE ORDINARY

FASHION / 57

Using dresses as the protagonist, Italian filmmaker Alice Rohrwacher tells her story of what defines femininity in the short movie De Djess that is produced as part of Miu Mius Womens Tales. Eccentric and mostly interpretative, the dresses from Miu Mius Spring Summer 2015 collection

take on personalities of their own in a narrative that is set against a quaint village hotel run by nuns.

The movie starts with the dresses washed ashore like survivors from a shipwreck and, after being rescued by the nuns, they find a new life as celebrities in the hotel. De Djess is

reminiscent of Alices award-winning work The Wonders, which explores Italys evaporating peasant culture. I want in my films to pose questions, Rohrwacher admits, not to offer answers.

De Djess is full of questions and adds another tender tonality to the Miu Miu Womens Tales series: a mirrored world where objects choose owners instead of the other way around. I felt it was right to give the lead role to a dress, and put myself inside, the director explains. The movie premiered in New York during this seasons fashion week, and acclaimed photographer, Brigitte Lacombe, takes us behind-the-scenes in the making of the movie. Watch the full movie on www.miumiu.com

58

Urban

Hood By AirSpring Summer 2015

FOCUS / 59

EscapesUrbanwear,

encapsulating an expression of

self through style, explores collections that are alternative and unpredictable.

BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

60

This concept space is truly the heart of the avant-garde and alternative fashion movement in the region. Dubbed as a gallery of wearable art, The cARTel speaks to the fashion savvy, confident audience who determine their own distinctive personal style without blind commitments to labels. The stores buying aesthetic is driven towards progressive design elements, experimental cuts and unconventional silhouettes. Theres close to zero

chance of someone in the Middle East wearing the same outfit as yours from The cARTel, says one of the founders, Peter Richweisz. While names like Iris Van Herpen, Hussein Chalayan, Gareth Pugh and Rad Hourani form the anchor, the store is also a platform for emerging designers to set foot in the Middle East. We treat fashion as an artistic expression and some of the creations should be considered as wearable art, so pretty much all of our labels fall under the avant-

garde category. Besides the usual routes, we visit cities slightly off the beaten path to find new talent, he explains. The multicultural attribute of the region has allowed for the store to create a niche palette of collections, which brings a wider choice of fashion to customerswho are becoming more diverse in tastes. Avant-garde fashion appeals across age and demographics. Its all down to personal confidence and taste, he says. The cARTel is located in Al Quoz, Dubai.

THE BIG WIGS

THE CARTEL

Rad Hourani Rad Hourani

Rad Hourani

Solid Gray

FOCUS / 61

Lina Mustafas urban aesthetics translates into the uber-cool The Luxury Arcade, the first concept store to open its doors in Abu Dhabi. Crossing into the world of menswear a long time stronghold for the urban lifestyle Lina brings a fresh mix and match perspective with a feminine touch. I tend to wear a lot of mens clothing and am more of a sneakers and sweatpants kind of girl, so its very

much in my comfort zone, she explains. The philosophy of combining urbanwear with luxury pieces comes through in her buying for the store; fresh labels including Stripes, Nerdy Fresh, Filling Pieces and Daily Paper make their debut appearance in the region, while established names like Prabal Gurung and Marios Schwab fill the top shelves. I love seeing how the scene here has evolved and how people

are taking on different trends. Urban wear is generally comfortable and easy to wear so the trend is definitely picking up, she says. The distinctive emerging urban voice from regional designers hs not been missed, The Luxury Arcade is keen to support names including Amongst Few, House of Nomad and LAfshar. The Luxury Arcade is located at The World Trade Centre Mall, Abu Dhabi.

THE LUXURY ARCADE

Jonathan Simkhai, 4,450AEDWanda Nylon, 3,250AED Wanday Nylon, 1,720AEDMarios Schwab,

7,090AED

There is so much swag and perspective into the lifestyle presentation of this label that it truly embodies the spirit of urbanwear with a strong origin in Dubai. The essence of street culture derives strongly from its locale, and in a two-and-a-half minute video feature, the debut collection of Amongst Few plays out against the rugged landscape of the Emirates, complete with some dirt biking action. Founded by Flo Moser and Mike Taylor who both come from the music industry, the label was an organic progression, as we have always been

surrounded by fashion, music and art, Mike says. The emphasis here is to keep core features like attention to detail and quality alive while creating timeless premium street wear for ourselves and others, he explains. The collection derives from the duos experience of living in Dubai and the Emirates diverse culture and lifestyle. We integrate these with the monochrome shades of UAEs traditional clothing, classic silhouettes, high-quality prints and modern detailing on premium garments, Mike adds. As front-runners for street culture in the region, the

developing scene is encouraging for the duo. With large events like Sole DXB, you can really see the demand for street culture is increasing. When meeting other designers, brands and figures of the culture outside of the UAE, they all mention that they have heard positive things about the growing scene in Dubai, which is great for a city so young, Flo says. Amongst Fews first delivery consists of durable soft handle tees, embroidered sweaters and hoodies made from 100% Peruvian cotton, snapbacks, and leather bags. Shop at www.amongstfew.com

THE PLAYERS

AMONGST FEW

FOCUS / 63

Urbanwear because they are no rules on the street, says Wekafore Jibril, the head designer for the label, who reminisces about the times of du-rags, baggy denim pants and Nike AF1s. Wanting to endorse unique perspectives, Wekafore Dubai was founded to explore a mindset that goes deeper than just clothes; it is a way of communicating without talking. We realised that there are no brands that

really represent Dubai; the Deira lifestyle or switching it up to the classy Downtown lifestyle. Thats what we do - New Street, Wekafore explains. This season, the label is seeking to redefine streetwear by giving it an avant-garde touch with inspirations that come from a place of solitude and simplicity. The idea of young people who go to school and work looking really sleek, yet street-smart, he says. Theres

a strong push for individuality and self-identity in the labels message, which is core in the expression of streetwear. I am tired of fancy girls. And hes also tired of everyone wanting to dress like Kanye West or ASAP Rocky. Our task now is to convince people that urban brands from Dubai are just as good and fashion forward.

WEKAFORE DUBAI

Phot

o C

redi

t: M

oez

Ach

our &

Ale

x C

allu

eng

64

Vibrant, young and hip, Juniors be Junior fills the local market gap for affordable funky streetwear and accessories. It was almost like an accidental venture for Yasmeen Al-Naif, who dived into the world of branding and videography despite an academic background in management and economics. Fashion was never on the radar and I never had much of an interest for it, let alone designing! Though

I definitely have always had an eye for clothing with a dress sense that is different from the crowd, she explains. Finding an interest in urbanwear, Yasmeen started the label as a platform to merge her talents in visual arts with designing. Streetwear items can be made to look extremely cool, and also as statement pieces, she says. While Dubai seems to be the burgeoning regional centre for street culture, theres

definitely a myriad of elements at play. Lots of home-grown designers are doing well but I feel that the actual movement is pioneered through the art industry in Dubai, which is trickling into a changing urban fashion scene, she says. Juniors be Junior currently carries monochromatic unisex staples of sweatshirts, sweatpants, tshirts, snapbacks and beanies at www.juniorsbejunior.com

JUNIORS BE JUNIOR

FOCUS / 65

Two female popstars stand out in championing the rise of urbanwear for women: Rihanna and Rita Ora, whose dressing styles evoke the best of streetwear with luxury brands. Equally comfortable in couture gowns as she is in her favourite New Balance sneakers, Rihannas street-style looks have always veered towards stylised

hoodies, sweatpants, cropped tops and statement tees. The popstar, who was honoured with a CFDA Fashion Icon Award last year, is also always on-point with her mix and matches, luxurious fur coats with biker tees and torn jeans with stilettos. Meanwhile, Rita Ora is the queen of bomber jackets, sweatshirts and co-ords, prompting her

collaboration with Adidas Originals last year. The sell-out collection has brought on a second instalment which will focus on Pop-Art. The British singer has a penchant for beanies and is a favourite with Moschino designer Jeremy Scott. She was one of the first privileged few to don the brands Spongebob sweater dress.

THE PERSONALITIES

66

FASHION / 67

IT IS A PLAY ON THE CONCEPT OF STRENGTH FROM ALL PERSPECTIVES. THE SUBTLE REPRESENTATION OF THE POWERFUL SWORD IN THE ARABIC LETTER ALEF IS COMBINED WITH ITS AUTHORITATIVE STATUREAS THE OPENING ALPHABET FOR THE LANGUAGE.

BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

WARRIORINNER

68

T his philosophy characterises the collaboration between jewellery designer Nadine Kanso of Bil Arabi and Qatars own style blogger Anum Bashir of Desert Mannequin. The exploration of strength, courage and adventure in the form of a womans inner warrior comes together in the Alef/20 capsule collection of eight unique pieces integrating Nadines signature work with Arabic typography and Anums minimal aesthetics.

The collection of cuffs, earrings, pendants and rings depicting various versions of the alphabet, with only twenty pieces available per design, is crafted using 18-carat gold and embellished with diamonds and sapphires. The overall design of the collection stemmed from something personal: a diamond and sapphire set I had designed for my wedding as part of my dowry. Nadine loved the initial design and we decided to adapt and modify it in a way that reflected greatly on our personal aesthetics. I wanted something strong and minimal, and Nadine wanted to add a unique sparkle and Arabize it, Anum explains.

The duos mutual love for art and appreciation for people with a cool and unique style got them working on the pieces that celebrate cultural identity and individuality. As a multi-medium

artist, Nadines work for Bil Arabi has been widely celebrated in the region for representing a contemporary Arab voice. The creative meeting between the two personalities has also sparked a new friendship, as they share the journey of their artistic collaboration.

How did the collaboration come about ?Anum: I have always loved Bil Arabi and greatly admire the work of Nadine. As an artist, shes just plain ol cool! With Nadine, it was apparent from the get-go that she gravitates towards individuals who wish to leave a mark and be different. And Ive always felt the same. Our quick friendship blossomed into a collection. I wanted 2015 to be the year I did something special with someone remarkable, so I asked Nadine how she felt about collaborating, and she said, yes!.Nadine: The first time I noticed Anum was on Desert Mannequins Instagram. It was fresh, different and had an identity of her own, and her penchant for art, which is something that I love too. A few weeks later, I received an email inquiring about The LOVE Cuff (from the collection) and I immediately recognised the name! From there on, it was a phone call, then a lunch, then a lot of talks and great time spent. We both hit it off and had mutual feelings

FASHION / 69

about a lot of brands and art-related topics. Collaborations are usually not a walk in the park but I have to say this one and my mens line collaboration have just been wow.

How did the concept of Strength appear? Anum: I think women increasingly represent strength these days. There is an inner warrior in us: a desire to constantly surpass what we have achieved, to grasp and conquer something bigger and better. I see Nadine and how she has managed to create something so recognisable in less than a decade. And that comes from being strong, and possessing an inner passion that fuels our journey. Not only do we share similar traits, and now a blossoming friendship, I feel Ive learned so much from a wonderful person. Nadine: The Alef in its shape has the elements of a sword and being the first letter makes it a strong and powerful letter. In this collection, everything is about the Alef, not only because of its shape but also representative of Anums initial and its beautiful meaning, which is Blessing. A lot of similarities brought us together; our characters as women with a sense of responsibility, ambition and drive, the way we look at life and the power we hold in our heart, all these elements are the essence of strength in my

opinion.

How do you identify with being a warrior?Anum: My husband tells me, Youre a fighter, and rarely accept defeat or no for an answer. Your inner warrior is fiercely loyal, has a lot of love to give, and a spirit thats filled with optimism.Nadine: A warrior is someone who doesnt accept injustice and unfairness, someone who has the strength to endure and be patient. In many ways, I am like that.

Who are women of strength to you?Anum: Anyone who has ever suffered greatly and yet still managed to achieve an immense amount. People lead by example. My mother did just that. Nadine: I admire women, kids, men who live in war zones, in oppression and yet manage to smile and walk to school, work under hard circumstances. People who are sick and still get up every morning and thank God for what they have. People who achieve. The capsule collection will be launched during Art Dubai this month. The pieces will be available in Per Lei Couture in Doha, Harvey Nichols and S*uce Rocks in Dubai, and online on Luisa Via Roma.