Process Flow Chart of Knitting

Yarn in Package Form

↓Place the yarn cone in the creel

↓Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip tape positive feeding arrangement and tension device

↓Knitting

↓Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting

↓Inspection

↓Numbering

Important Parameter and their effect in fabric production

a. Stitch Length Stitch length increase with the increase of GSM If fabric width increase then stitch length increase and WPI decrease For deep shade stitch length should be higher and vice-versa

b. GSM Gray GSM should be less than finish GSM GSM increase with increase of stitch length and it is adjusted by VDQ pulley Enzyme Level Colour Sueded or non-sueded If shrinkage increase then GSM increase

c. Count If count increase then fabric width increase GSM depends on yarn count

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d. Gauge For finer gauge finer count should be use If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease If gauge decrease then stitch length increase

e. Feeder Production increase with increase no. of feeder Feeder is setted incase of stripe fabric

f. Design Cam setting Set of needle Size of loop shape

Quality Control Of Knitting Section

To produce high quality fabric it is necessary to inspect the fabric roll after receiving from different machine. This is done to assure the quality of the fabric before dyeing.

List of equipments used in inspection

a. Inspection m/cb. Electronic balancec. GSM cutter

Inspection Procedure

As the fabric is produced by the circular knitting machine it is then collected by the quality inspector and the fabric is thoroughly inspected in front of a white light board. During this inspection the holes, oil marks, sinker marks, needle marks, barre effects are checked. If the fabric is within the acceptance level (by four point system) then it is sent to the batch section for dyeing or further treatment. In case of collar and cuff no inspection is done as the collars and cuffs are made in a very precise way by fully automatic or computerized machine.

Quality Standard

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Interstoff Apparels Ltd. Follows the four point grading system to inspect the body & rib of the fabric. It is to mention that no inspection of collar or cuff is not done here as these are produce in a very precise manner. In the four point system the faults are found by inspection and are given points against the fault. Then the total no. is calculated. The following table shows the four point system.

Four Point Grading SystemSize of defects Penalty Points3 inches or less 1Over 3 inch but not over 6 inch 2Over 6 inch but not over 9 inch 3Over 9 inch 4

Following Table shows common body and rib faults and response by inspection section at Interstoff Apparel Ltd.

No. Faults Response1. Needle Mark Major needle line is rejected2. Stripe Major needle line is rejected3. Barre mark Rejected4. Contamination and fly Approved for colour but not for white shade 1 point is

assigned5. Slubs 1 point6. Thick thin place Reject7. Birds eye 1 Point8. Pin holes 1 Point9. Wrong design Reject10. Mixed yarn Discuss with manager11. Sinker mark Major sinker mark is rejected12. Missing yarn Use 4 point13. Holes Do14. Oil line/ stain Do15. Chemical Do16. Dirt stain Do17. Crease Line Do

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18. Uneven tension Discuss with manager

Faults & their causes in knitting

A. Barre: This is basically a fabric fault which is found in the course wise. This is due to Count variation in the same lot Shade variation in the dyed yarn Needle is too lose or tight in trick

B. Needle mark: This is a fabric fault which is found in the wales wise due to needle. The reasons are Breakage of hook of needle Breakage of latch of needle Change of alignment of latch Due to improper schedule maintenance

C. Oil mark: This is a mark in the fabric due to oiling in the machine. Reasons are Too much oiling in the machine Leakage in the oiling system Bad quality lubricant is used Mixing of one quality lubricant with another one

D. Holes: This is a fabric fault which could be due to machine or yarn Thick thin place in the yarn Too much tension of yarn Too much speed of the machine Defective needle

E. Slubs: This is a fabric fault due to projected fibres More formation of fly from the yarn Bad quality of yarn use The air circulation system by the fan is not sufficient Fly could be come from the adjacent machine due to cleaning

F. Design Variation: Variation of stripe in the machine Wrong cam arrangement

G. Count Variation: Different count of yarn package in the same lot

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Different quality of yarn use in the same order Variation of count in the same package in different places Use yarn of another company for the same production

GSM Variation:

Variation in the stitch length Wrong position of the VDQ pulley Improper tension of the fabric during production Wrong selection of yarn count

Others Contamination: Other than these there may be fault in the fabric due to dust of the area, impurities in the yarn, badly cleaned machine, impurities can be come from the operator hand due to splicing of yarn etc.

Collar Fault:

Loop formation

Hole

Due to yarn

Needle mark

Oil mark

Production Calculation

A. Production / shift in Kg at 100% efficiency

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B. Production/shift in meter

=

=

C. Fabric width in meter

=

=

D. GSM Calculation

1.

=

6

=

2.

=

=

E. Length calculation

=

Maintenance in the knitting section

For proper running of the machine it is necessary to maintain the machine. This is done by cleaning the machine after every 15-20 days. This is basically the servicing of the machine. This is done because

- To maintain the quality of the fabric- To reduce the fabric fault- Removal of dust from the machine- Cleaning of different parts of the machine

During servicing the following things are checked weather they are in good condition or not. These are cleaned and also replaces if necessary. These are

Needle Sinker Cam box Sinker Cam Cylinder

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Full body

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