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how to exchange:

Crochet to Knitting or

Knitting to Crochet

Written by Shirley I. Zantow

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Thank you for purchasing products from The Yarn Lover’s Room at www.knitting-crochet.com

Please read the following before using, viewing and printing this E-Book: - Our E-Book has been designed for you to print off on your printer AS IS. No changes or manipulation to this document is allowed. This E-Book must be printed in its entirety. This E-Book requires Adobe Reader to be viewed and has been thoroughly print tested for quality. We cannot be responsible for poor print quality due to your printer. - By using this product you agree to our terms of use. See Below - If you feel you have received an illegal, unlicensed copy of this product please report this to The Yarn Lover’s Room at knit@knitting-crochet.com

Terms of Use

The following work is copyrighted material by Shirley Zantow of Bellville, Wisconsin, USA. © 2007 Shirley I. Zantow. We reserve all rights to our copyrights, trademarks, trade names, and other intellectual property. All products created by Shirley I. Zantow for The Yarn Lover’s Room at www.knitting-crochet.com are protected under copyright laws, and cannot be reproduced in any way without written permission with the exception of printing on your home printer for personal use. For more information or questions regarding our products, please call or e-mail us at knit@knitting-crochet.com

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Table of Contents

Exchanging Crochet Hooks to Knitting Needles

What is a Gauge & How Do You Make One

Definitions Of Yarn Weights

Yarn Exchange

Yarn Gauge

Approximate Ounce Guide for Long Sleeve Sweater

Calculating the Approximate Yards to Buy

Reading Patterns

Reading Charted Patterns

Finishing or Sewing Together Seams

Word and Phrase Exchange

Abbreviations, Their Meanings, and How to Apply Them

Pattern / Stitch Exchanging

* * Bonus Pattern * *

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It's now possible to exchange many of your favorite knitting patterns to crochet or your favorite crochet patterns to knit. We can accomplish this by using a knitting needle instead of your hook and knitting off your crochet stitches. By doing this, you can exchange on the fly. As well, you can knit your crochet stitches from your knitting needles. To do this you'll have to exchange your hooks to the same size needles. When you try it, you'll be amazed that you haven’t thought of doing this before. Note: In this booklet, the directions will instruct you to place either the hook or the knitting needle "in your right-hand" or tell you to use "your right-hand needle" or again, place the "hook in your right-hand" but this does not mean you have to knit or crochet with your right-hand. Many times left-handed people will use their left-hand, others will not. Some right-handed people use their left- hand. So in reading this, when it tells you to use your right-hand needle, it may be more comfortable for you to work with your left-hand instead.

Exchanging Crochet Hooks to Knitting Needles

If you're using a pattern that calls for a size 7 knitting needle, and you would like to crochet it instead, just follow the chart below. A size 7 needle would be exchanged to a G or H. Work up a gauge using both (or more) hooks. Which crochet (or knitted) gauge works up to match the gauge in the directions in the pattern? That's the one to go with. If you are creating your own pattern, use what you'd like. I'll be explaining how to create your own sweater vest later on in this booklet.

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Hooks US / MM Knitting needles Used for / Gauge 2 inches 0 us / 2 mm

B 1 / 2 ¼

C 2 / 2 ¾

Fingering weight / 14 - 16

D 3 / 3 ¼

E 4 / 3 ½

F 5 / 3 ¾

Sport weight / 11- 12

G 6 / 4 ½

7 7 / 4 ½ Worsted weight/ 10 / 11

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H 8 / 5

I 9 / 5 ½

Heavy worsted (Aran)/ 8 - 9

J 10 / 6

K 10 ½ / 6 ½

Bulky weigh/ t 6 - 7

L 11 / 8

M 13 / 9

Bulky weight or

N 15 / 10

2 strands held together

P 16 2 or more strands of yarn / 3 -5

Exchanging knitting to crochet or crochet to knitting would be impossible without first working up a gauge.

What is a Gauge & How Do You Make One Almost every pattern you use will have the gauge for the given size needle or hook used in the pattern. The gauge is for the recommended weight of yarn and the size of the needles or hook used in the pattern. If you're creating your own pattern use whatever yarn you'd like and it's recommended needle or hook size written on the yarns label, at least until you understand how this works. If you're not sure of the weight you're using, perhaps you could try the following trick. Hold the yarn together with a yarn you know the weight of and stretch it out side by side to see if they are the same thickness. Then, try your gauge, measure and check. Creating a gauge is done by either knitting or crocheting about 20 stitches and/or a 4-inch long row with the larger size hook or needle used in the pattern, unless otherwise directed. You will slip this sample off your needles or hook and let it "rest". There is no need to bind off or tie off on your last stitch or row. Lay the gauge on a flat surface. Lay a gauge square or ruler over the middle of the sample. Count the number of stitches going across the sample left to right in a one-inch section. Do the same thing placing the ruler top to bottom on the sample. Again count the rows for one inch up and down. This is your gauge. Don't forget the half or quarter stitch. Forgetting these half or quarter stitches can make your sweater 2 or 3 sizes smaller. See below for an example.

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Gauge 5 stitches 5 ¼ 5 ½

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Sweater size 36 inches 36 inches 36 inches Number of stitches to start with 180 189 198

Doing the math 36 times 5 = 180

36 times 5 ¼ = 189 36 times 5 ½ = 198

If you're getting too many stitches and rows, change to a larger needle or hook size and work another gauge. If on the other hand, you're getting too few, you will need a smaller hook or needle. Try it again! Time after time I've been told how the pattern turned out too big or too small. The knitter assured me they did everything correctly that they followed all the directions to the letter and their garment just wasn't it right size. I'd asked them if they worked up a gauge? You guessed it. The answer was always “No”. Usually their reason is "My tension is always the same and has been for years. I've never used a gauge ". This example reminds me of one woman, Marie, who did just that. It breaks my heart to think of the time it took her to make this beautiful sweater and have it to small to wear. However, I bet she'll make a gauge from now on. I cannot tell you how important this one step is. A great suggestion given to me is after you make a test piece or gauge, put the sample, with the needle or hook size, yarn weight and pattern you worked up in the notebook for reference at a later date. When you'd like to use the yarn again you'll have a great starting point. Plus, and this is a big plus, you'll know what the yarn looks like when it's worked up. You could also try this: knit in stockinette or crochet in sc about 30 stitches for about 10 or 12 rows purl two row or dc one row then change the hook or needle size and again sc or stockinette for 10 or 12 rows. Repeat this as many times as you'd like using a different size needle or hook each time. Label the samples with yarn name, weight and hook or needles sizes you used. Tricky huh? You'll want to add any washing instructions written on the skeins wrapper. Add the date and any notes you'll find useful later on. Maybe even a picture of the finished item.

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Definitions Of Yarn Weights

Let's go over the different weights of yarn when you're substituting one yarn or brand for another weight or brand. Fingering weight: Is a very thin and lightweight yarn. It will be worked on small needles, American 1, 2 and 3, and will have 7 or more stitches to the inch. This yarn is typically used for socks, summer sweaters, clothing for babies, lightweight shawls to name just a few. You can also use this yarn on most knitting machines. Sport yarn: Is twice as thick as the fingering weight yarns. It is a medium weight and will include some novelty yarns. This yarn is some times referred to DK or Double Knitting but really dk / double knitting is a weight on it own, as it is just a bit heaver than sport but not as heavy as worsted. Sport weight yarn is usually worked with American needles 3, 4, 5 and 6. It will have about 4 to 6 stitches to the inch. This is great for making mittens, sweaters, baby clothing, and dresses. This yarn can also be worked on a knitting machine Dk / double knitting yarn: about 5 ¼ sts per inch. Exchanging this with sport weight use one size smaller needle or hook one size larger if your substituting this for worsted weight. Worsted weight: Will be 3 to 4 times as thick as fingering weight yarn. Twice as thick as two strands of sport weight held together. It is heavyweight yarn using American needles 7, 8, and 9, will get you 4 to 6 stitches per inch. You will use this weight for heavy sweaters, most Afghans, leg warmers, and mittens and more. This weight can also be refereed to as “ordinary knitting yarn” and can also be used on bulky knitting machine. Some refer to this yarn as fisherman’s or Aran yarn. But it's not. Fishermen’s or Aran is a weight all into itself and IS used for almost every Aran or Fishermen’s patterns. Perhaps this is because it's used when knitting or crocheting Fishermen’s, or Aran sweaters. It is roughly three strands of sport weight. Bulky weight: Will be very thick yarn, about 6 or 8 times thicker than fingering weight and approximately equal to four strands of sport weight or two strands of worsted weight. You'll get about 2 to 3 stitches per inch using American needles 10, 10 ½, 11, and 13. You'll use this for heavy sweaters, coats, and many Afghans. Chunky: is the heaviest of all the yarns. You'll use this for coats, rugs or plant hangers made in the 70's. This has a very large gauge being just 2 or 2 ½ stitches per inch. Textured Yarn: A lofty man-made fiber, which has been treated to look different than natural, yarns. This yarn may be looped, curled, crimped or coiled. Usually is a worsted or bulky weight.

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The term ply refers to the number of strands twisted together and used in making the yarn (2, 3 or 4-ply) and has no bearing on the weight of the yarn.

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Yarn Exchange Yarn weight is pretty standard. If you were out shopping for yarn at any good yarn shop and asked for a worsted weight yarn, you would be shown only one weight. There is no relationship between the number of ply and strands of yarn and the weight of the yarn. Most yarn of any weight will be made of two, three or more ply twisted together to form one strand. Learning to exchanging yarns when reading your pattern comes from knowing what gauge you will be using while making your pattern. Following will be a guide to use when the yarn your pattern calls for is not the yarn you want to use or can't find. You can be pretty sure you'll be using very close to the suggested weight if you exchange your yarns as follows: Two fingering weight yarn strands held together will be about the same weight as a Sport weight. Two strands of sport weight yarn held together make a worsted weight yarn. Fisherman's yarn can be made by working with three strands of sport weight held together. Bulky weight yarn will be the same as four strands of sport or two strands of worsted weight. Interchanging yarns should only be used with yarns that will produce the recommended stitch gauge. It is very important that you make your gauge. All rules are off when you're working with a textured or novelty yarn that is lumpy, bumpy with fuzzy or loopy strand added in the yarn. This type of textured yarn can be any weight from baby to bulky and maybe all in the same skein. For this yarn you'll have to make a larger gauge square and take an average stitch to the inch. Helpful hint: Have you lost the band around your ball of yarn? Not sure what weight it is or the recommend gauge and needle size? Try this, while holding your yarn in question together and stretching them side by side with a yarn that you know the weight of, look to see if they are the same thickness. Then try your gauge, measure and check.

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Yarn Gauge (Approximate number of stitches in 4 inches)

Bulky weight 8 to 12 stitches

Bulky/Worsted 12 to 16

Worsted 16 to 20

Light Worsted 20 to 22

Sport weight 22 to 24

Approximate Ounce Guide for Long Sleeve Sweater

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Sweater or chest size inches

Fine yarn ounces

Medium yarn ounces

Bulky Yarn ounces

46 15

23 31

44 14

22 30

42 13

21 29

40 12

20 28

38 11

19 27

36 10

18 26

34 9

17 25

32 8

16 24

30 7

15 23

28 6

14 22

26 5

13 21

24 4

12 20

22 3 11 19

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Example: A size 36 worsted weight sweater will use 18 ounces of yarn. A size 46 bulky weight sweater will use 31 ounces of yarn.

Calculating the Approximate Yards to Buy For Women's Medium or size 36 to 38

Sleeve length Fingering wt. Sport wt. Worsted wt. Bulky wt.

Short 1100 1400 1200 1000

Long 1600 900 700 500

Reading Patterns

Do you know how to read a pattern for both knit and crochet? To exchange patterns you'll have to at least know how to read a pattern but not necessarily how to work the different stitches. The commas are the all important stopping and starting point and it is what is written between these commas that is the single most important step in the row or pattern. Let's take an example. Row 1 (right side): *K2, p2; rep from *. Row 2 (wrong side): *P2, k2; rep from *. In other words On the first row (you'll be working on the right side of the patterns), you knit 2 stitches then purl 2 stitches then repeat the k2, p2 across the whole row to the end. On the next row, Row 2: (you'll be working on the wrong side) you begin by purling 2 stitches then knitting 2 stitches repeating then p2, k2 stitches again across the whole row until you've reached the end of the row. In other words Knit 2 stitch comma (then,) purl 2 stitch over and over. Pretty easy, right? Let's do this one ... Row 2: K 1, * yo, sl 1, k 2, K 2 tog, repeat from *, end K 1.

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Meaning Row 2: K1 then * yo then sl 1 then knit the next 2 stitches then knit 2 stitches together making a decrease * then repeat between the *'s until you've reached the end of the row's last stitch then end the row with 1 knit stitch. Isn't the " Row 2: K 1, * yo, sl 1, k 2, K 2 tog, repeat from *, end K 1" easier to read? Of course it is.

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Let's do one in crochet. Rnd 2: * (Sc, hdc, 4 dc, hdc, sc) in next lp, repeat from * 7 times. Meaning Row 2: * Repeat from here to the next * you see in this row (or it could be a row or two later) then single crochet one stitch then one half double stitch then 4 double crochets stitches then one half double then one single crochet all in the next one stitch then repeat all this from the last * you have 7 times more. Rnd 2: * (Sc, hdc, 4 dc, hdc, sc) in next lp, repeat from * 7 times. is much easier to read right? Just remember the comma is the "then" in both your crochet and knitting patterns. or What is written between commas is worked before going on to the next set of commas.

Reading Charted Patterns Each square in a chart is one stitch in your pattern and each symbol inside that square indicates how to work the stitch in that square. Every chart will have a key showing the different symbols in the squares and what or how to work the stitch. Usually you'll find this at the top of your pattern and when necessary will explain the stitches step by step. The patterns will also include any other information you'll need to work the pattern. For instance- Do you read the chart right to left or left to right? The different sizes will be made with a thicker line between the sizes. Increasing and decreasing stitches will be shown on the sides and the binding off or finishing will be indicated by decreasing more than one stitch. Adjustments can be made by moving side seams in or out. Shoulder seams can be changed by adding or deleting rows (inches).

Finishing or Sewing Together Seams Here are a few general rules I'd like to share for both knitting and crocheting. In knitting, for a much neater edge, slip the first stitch in each row without working it to your left-hand needle and knit into the back of the last stitch of the row whenever possible. Use the same yarn to weave or sew seams as you made the garment with. Be careful not to pull the yarn to tight or let it be too loose, as this will cause it to become bulky, bumpy or holes in your seams. Weave in the all ends 3 or 4 inches in both vertically (back and forth) or horizontally (up and down). Crochet stitch will be the same as this knitting stitch.

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One row of single crochet will be the same as one row of knit and a row of purl (stockinette) or two rows of knit (garter stitch). One row of half-double crochet is a little more than a single crochets but not as much as a double. You'll have to measure this one, but it's about 3 rows of knitting. (kl, pl, kl) One row of double crochet is the same as 4 rows of stockinette. (kl row, pl row, kl row, and pl row) One row of treble crochet is the same as 6 rows of stockinette. (kl row, pl row, kl row, pl row, kl row, and pl row) One row of double triple will be the same as 10 rows of stockinette. Knitting stitch will be the same as this Crochet stitch One row of knit and a row of purl (stockinette) or two rows of knit (garter stitch) is the same as one row of single crochet. 3 rows of knitting (kl, pl, kl) is the same as one row of half-double crochet but not as much as a double. You'll have to measure this one, but it's about 4 rows of stockinette (kl row, pl row, kl row, and pl row) will be the same as One row of double crochet. 6 rows of stockinette (kl row, pl row, kl row, pl row, kl row, and pl row) will be the same as one row of treble crochet. 10 rows of stockinette will be the same as one row of double triple.

Word and Phrase Exchange

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English American Alternate

Every other

Balaclava

Cold weather hood

Cast off

Bind off

Double crochet

Single crochet

Double treble

Treble crochet

Grafting

Weaving

Half treble

Half double crochet

Hank

Skein

Jumper

Sweater

Knit up Pick up and knit

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Make a stitch

Increase

Miss

Skip

Miss a stitch

Slip a stitch

Moss stitch

Seed stitch

Pick up loops

Pick up dropped stitch

Pick up stitches

Knit up stitches

Pins

Needles

Polo neck

Turtle neck

Selvage

Edge

Slip stitch

Single crochet

st st (stocking stitch)

Stockinette stitch

Tension

Gauge

Top shaping

Cap shaping

Treble

Double crochet

Turtle neck

Mock turtle neck

Waist

Vest

Work straight

Work even

yrn/yon yo

When you're reading a pattern, usually you'll see the abbreviations in the first column which will be the short way of saying what's in the second column while the directions of working the stitch or meaning of the word will be in the third column.

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Abbreviations, Their Meanings, and How to Apply Them

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Abbreviations Meaning How to A’s

AC Alternate Color 2nd or another color

alt alternate go back and forth between stitches or colors.

altog altogether work 2 or more together at the same time.

approx approximately more or less, close to, just about.

B’s

B Bobble There are many ways to make a bobble using 1 row or over several rows. Knitting 1-row bobbles 1. Knit two stitch from 1 stitch by knitting into the front of the loop, then the back of the loop, return the two stitches to left hand needle and knit together .2. Purl 2 stitches from one stitches by purling into the front of the loop, then the back of the loop, return the 2 two stitches back to the left hand needle knit the same two stitches together. 3. Knit three stitches into one stitch by knitting into the front of the loop, then the back of the loop, then the front, return all three stitches to left needle and knit together. 4. Knit four stitches into one stitch by knitting into the front of the loop, then the back of the loop, then the front, then the back of the loop one more time, return all four stitches to left needle and knit together. This will be very tight until you work the next row 5. knit five stitches into one stitch by knitting into the front of the loop, then the back of the loop, then the front, then the back and then the front again, return all five stitches to left

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needle and knit together. This will be very tight and somewhat hard to get the needle through to knit them together but it can be done. Short row bobbles. 1. Knit four stitches into one stitch, turn, p4, turn, k4, turn, p4, turn, k4, turn, purl all four stitches together. 2. Knit three stitches into one stitch, turn, p3, turn, k3, turn, purl all three stitches together3. the more your turn your work back and forth, knitting then purling, the bigger the bobble will be. Crochet 1. Yo, Insert hook and draw up a ½ inch hoop) 3 times in the next single crochet. (4 loops on hook). Yo and draw through all loops at once. Puff complete. or 2. * yo, insert hook into st, yo, draw your yarn through, yo, draw through two loops, repeat from * 4 more times always inserting hook into the same stitch. You will have 6 loops on your hook. Yo and draw your yarn through all loops to finish your bobble. Working this bobble will be more pronounced when worked from the wrong side of your work and pushed to the front.

B Back of stitch The part of the stitch that is behind your needles or hook.

b

in back of stitch This will be used when giving directions. i.e. purl in back stitch. or crochet back loop.

bar increases Knitting Knit the stitch normally but without transferring the knitted stitch to the right needle; the same stitch is then knitted through the back loop. (Knitting through the front loop again is not possible, since it would undo the first stitch. This increase makes a bar at the base of the stitch. Crochet Crochet through the front loop and then through the back loop of the same stitch.

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BC Back Cross Knitting

1BC - Single Back Cross. Sl 1 to dpn and hold in back, kl, then p1 from dpn. 2BC - Double Back Cross. Sl 1 st to dpn and hold in back, k2, then p1 from dpn. 3BC - Triple Back Cross. Sl 1 to dpn and hold in back, k3, then p1 from dpn. Crochet 1BC - Single Back Cross. Skip 1 st, from the front, work your next stitch, go back and work your skipped stitch. 2BC - Double Back Cross. Skip 1 st, from the front 2 stitches, go back and work your skipped stitch. 3BC - Triple Back Cross. Skip 1 st, from the 3 stitches, then work the skipped stitch. Example; Skip next stitch, dc in next st, insert hook from back to front in skipped st, dc. Making the double crochet a raised stitch.

BDKC Back Double Knit Cross

Knitting Sl 2 k sts to dpn and hold in back, k2, then k2 from dpn. Crochet Skip next 2 stitches, dc in next st, insert hook from back to front in skipped dc, repeat once more. Making the 2 double crochet a raised stitches.

beg M beginning marker Marker placed between 2 stitches to mark the beginning of the round or start and end of patterns.

bet between In the middle

BKC Back Knit Cross. knitting 1.Sl 1 st to dpn and hold in back, kl, then k the st from dpn. 2.Sl 1 st to dpn and hold in back, k2, then kl from dpn. 3.Sl 2 sts to dpn and hold in back, k2, then k2 from dpn crochet 1.Skip 1 st, from the front work one stitch,

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then go back and work your skipped stitch. 2.Skip 1 st, from the front work 2 stitches, then work your skipped stitch. 3.Skip 2 sts, from the front work 2 stitches, go back and work your 2 skipped stitches.

bl block (solid mesh)

Filled in square. Usually used in chart reading

BLI Back Lifted Increase Knitting Insert right-hand needle into the back of next st in the row below (from the top down into the purled loop behind the st on needle), and knit; then knit the st on needle in the usual way. Crochet From the second row on, make each stitch normally, but insert hook in back and from right to left around post of stitch below.

BO Body Gauge Taking measurements to use in a gauge

bo bobble Bobble Or Popcorn Stitch -There are many methods of working bobbles. Here are only a few for both knitting and crochet. Knit To do the bobble (or sometimes called the popcorn) stitch. You (k 1, p1, k 1, p1, k 1) all in the same stitch. Then on your purl row you p 5 tog. (It will be very tight but it can be done.) This forms the popcorn. You can just push the popcorn to the front side of your work and it will stay there. Or Knit up to the stitch to become a bobble. K into the front, then the back of the stitch, and do it again, 2 more times. You now have 6 stitches made from one, on your right-hand needle. Turn your work and knit these 6 stitches. Turn your work again, lift stitch #2 over stitch #1 and drop it, then do the same with the other 4 stitches. You are now back to the one stitch you started with, and have a bobble. Variations: Instead of knitting in the front, then the back of the stitch, you can knit, and

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then purl into the same stitch. You can do fewer stitches for a smaller bobble - 4 stitches make a nice, small "bump". If you want a giant, turn your work and knit the bubble stitches several times. Crochet Where your bobble is to go, (yo insert hook into next st, yo and draw loop through) 3 times, yo and draw loop through 6 loops on hook, bobble made.

bo binding off 1: Knit the first 2 stitches; insert left needle into stitch you knitted first, and pull it over the second stitch and completely off the needle. One stitch is now bound off. Step 2: Knit one more stitch, insert left needle into first stitch on right needle, and pull it over the new stitch and completely off the needle. Another stitch is bound off; don't work too tightly. Repeat Step 2 until one stitch remains; now cut yarn from skein, leaving a 6" end. With needle draw end up and through last stitch to secure it. Thread yarn end into yarn needle and weave end into several stitches to secure it. To bind off knitting with crochet. Insert crochet hook into your first stitch, pull a loop through., * Insert hook into next stitch. Pull a loop through both loops on the hook. Repeat from *

BPC Back Purl Cross Sl 1 p st to dpn, hold in back, k2, then p1 from dpn.

BPdc Back Post Double Crochet:

Yarn over, insert hook from behind indicated dc post in pattern instructions to the front, around the post and to the back, draw up a loop, (yo, draw through 2 loops on hook) Twice to complete stitch. Forms a ridged effect on front of work.

bs Berry Stitch knitting Cast on a multiple of 4 stitches and knit a

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row. Row 1: *(K1, yo, k1) in same stitch, p3 tog; repeat from *. (Wrong side row.) Row 2: *K1, p3; repeat from *. Row 3: *K3, p1; repeat from *. (You will be knitting all knit stitches and purling all purl stitches.) Row 4: *P1, k3; repeat from *. (You will be purling all knit stitches and knitting all purl stitches.) Row 5: *P3 tog, (k1, yo, k1) in same stitch, ; repeat from *. Row 6: *P3, k1; repeat from *. Row 7: *P1, k3; repeat from *. Row 8: *k3, p1; repeat from *. crochet Insert hook in stitch specified by pattern instructions, pull up a loop, (yo, draw through 1 loop on hook) 3 times, yo, draw through last 2 loops on hook to complete the stitch.

BT Back Twist Insert needle from front between lst and 2nd stitches and knit the 2nd stitch in back loop; then knit the lst stitch in front loop and sl both sts from needle together.

BTT Back Twist Two Insert right-hand needle from back to front between first and second sts, k the second st, then k the first st and slip both sts from needle together.

but buttonhole Knitting Working on the right side of your working piece. Working only the number of sts equal to the size of the button. Usually 2 or 3. To make buttonholes, work 2 sts, bind off next 2 sts, complete row. On next row, cast on 2 sts over the bound off sts, or work across row ending with button hole at end of knit row for boys. Buttonholes are made - Right side for girls, Left side for boys. Crochet Crochet up to the buttonhole. Ch 2, skip 2 sc. On the next row make 2 sc in each ch 2 space

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C’s

C12F Cable 12 Front

knitting Slip next 6 sts onto a cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 6 sts from left-hand needle, and then knit sts from cable needle.

crochet cross and cables

See note or FC below for all cables and crosses in crochet

C2B Cross 2 Back knitting Knit into back of 2nd st on needle, then knit first st, slipping both sts off needle at the same time. See note below

C2F Cross 2 Front knitting Knit into front of 2nd st on needle, then knit first st, slipping both sts off needle at the same time. See note below

C2L Cross 2 Left. knitting Slip next st onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next st from left-hand needle, then knit st from cable needle. See note below

C2P Cross 2 Purl Purl into front of 2nd st on needle, then purl first st, slipping both sts off needle together. See note below

C2R Cross 2 Right Slip next st onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next st from left-hand needle, then knit st from cable needle. See note below

C3 Cross 3 Knit into front of 3rd st on needle, then knit first st in usual way slipping this st off needle, knit 2nd st in usual way, slipping 2nd and 3rd sts off needle together. See note below

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C3B Cross 3 Back Sip next st onto a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, and then knit st from cable needle. See note below

C3F Cross-3 Front Slip next 2 sts onto a cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next st from left-hand needle, and then knit sts from cable needle. See note below

C3L Cable 3 Left Slip next st onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, and then knit st from cable needle. See note below

C3R Cable 3 Right Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at back needle, then knit sts from cable needle. See note below

C4B Cable 4 Back Slip next 2 sts onto a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle.

C4F Cable 4 Front or Forward

Slip next 2 sts onto a cable needle and hold at front of work, knit 2 sts from left-hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle.

C4L Cross 4 Left. Slip next st onto cable needle and leave at front of work, knit next 3 sts from left-hand needle then knit st from cable needle.

C4R Cross 4 Right Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and leave at back of work, knit next st from left-hand needle then knit sts from cable needle.

C5 Cable 5 Slip next 3 sts onto a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle.

C5B Cable 5 Back Slip next 3 sts onto a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, slip the purl st from point of cable needle back onto left-hand needle, purl this st, then k2 from cable needle.

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C5F Cable 5 Front Slip next 3 sts onto a cable needle and hold

at front of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, slip the purl st from point of cable needle back onto left-hand needle, purl this st, then k2 from cable needle.

C5L Cross 5 Left Slip next 4 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, purl next st on left-hand needle, and then knit sts on cable needle.

C5R Cross 5 Right Slip the next st onto a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 4 sts on left-hand needle, then purl the st on cable needle.

C6 Cross 6. Slip next 4 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, then slip the 2 purl sts from cable needle back to left-hand needle. Pass the cable needle with 2 remaining knit sts to back of work, purl 2 sts from left-hand needle, and then knit the 2 sts from cable needle.

C6B Cable 6 Back Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 3 sts from left-hand needle, and then knit sts from cable needle.

C6F Cable 6 Front Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 3 sts from left-hand needle, and then knit sts from cable needle.

C7B Cable 7 Back Slip next 4 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 3 sts on left-hand needle, slip purl st from cable needle onto left-hand needle and purl it, then k3 from cable needle.

C7F Cable 7 Front Slip next 4 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 3 sts on left-hand needle, slip purl st from cable needle onto left-hand needle and purl it, then k3 from cable needle.

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C8B Cable 8 Back Slip next 4 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 4 sts from left-hand needle, and then knit sts from cable needle.

C8F Cable 8 Front Slip next 4 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 4 sts from left-hand needle, and then knit sts from cable needle.

C9B Cable 9 Back Slip next 4 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 5 sts from left-hand needle, and then knit sts from cable needle.

C9F Cable 9 Front Slip next 5 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 4 sts from left-hand needle, and then knit sts from cable needle.

cab cable

Knitting Crossing one group of stitches over another. Patience and practice— Once you can do one you can do them all. Making simple cables or more intricate cables is only crossing stitches. All it takes is a little. Crochet There are many, many cable patterns. This is just one of them. 1: Skip next 3 stitches, treble post stitch around each of next 3 stitches. 2: Working behind the last 3 stitches, fold last 3 sts forward, tr ps around each of 3 skipped stitches. (For each tr ps, step 1): yarn over 2 times. Note: other cable, twists and crosses can be done just like the knit one except skip on the stitches they want you to hold on cable needle, work the stitches next, then go back and work your skipped stitches. You can do 3 or so without have to slip stitch your way across to the stitches to be worked. Example: Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 3 sts from left-hand needle, and then knit sts from cable needle. Work this like this. Skip 3 stitches, work from the front the next 3 stitches then your 3 you didn’t work. After 3 stitches you would slip stitch your

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way to the st. example; Slip next 5 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 4 sts from left-hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle. You would work this one like this; slip stitch then next 5 sts and let hang in front or fall forward while you work the next 4 sts then the stitches in front of your work you did not work are worked. Cross or cable made.

cast-on Knit Make a slipknot on your left hand needle. Insert right hand needle through front of the loop or stitch on the left hand needle and draw a new loop through and then slip this up and over the left hand needle making another stitch or one more cast-on. Repeat this as many times as you need "cast ons". The last loop on the left-hand needle as the first stitch that will be worked. This same way of casting on can also be done working purl stitches or in ribbing. Crochet Chain as many stitch as you need plus 5 or so more. After you've chained these turn the chain over so that you see the bumps. Put your knitting needle through those bumps one at a time and knit as normal. This will look like a knit row.

cc / CC contrasting color

Main color is mc and cc color is the second color.

ch chain

Chain or Foundation chain (ch) Step 1: Make a slip knot hold in your left hand. Hold hook in your right hand. Step 2: Insert hook through loop (slipknot). Step 3: Catch yarn with the hook and bring it back through the loop. 1 chain made. Step 4: Repeat steps 3 as many times as chains needed. (Your slip- knot is never counted when counting your chains.)

ch (ch-1) chain previously made

Leaves a hole in your work. Usually this will be worked one row down.

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Changing colors Insert your needle into next stitch to be knitted with the new color, take the ends of the old color and the ends of the new color new color, pass them over the strand you're about to knit with, and then knit with that strand. When knitting the next stitch, pass the two ends over the new strand again. Repeat this every stitch or two until you've knit in about 3" of the ends. Then you can just cut off the remaining ends later (but don't cut them flush with the fabric; leave a little bit sticking out on the wrong side).

cl cluster

Knitting see Cluster 3 below. You can use any number of stitches to cluster. The more stitches the bigger the cluster. Crochet 1: * Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, draw yarn through the stitch, yarn over, draw through 2 loops on hook *, repeat from * to * 3 times. 2: Yarn over, draw yarn through 5 loops on hook.

cl3 Cluster 3 knitting Knit 3 sts and transfer them onto dpn; then wind yarn 6 times counterclockwise (looking down from top) around these 3 sts under dpn; then return the 3 sts to right hand needle. crochet 1: Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, draw yarn through the stitch, yarn over, draw through 2 loops on hook, leaving last loop of this dc on the hook. 2: Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, draw yarn through the stitch, yarn over, draw through 2 loops on hook, leaving last loop of this dc on the hook (there are now 3 loops on the hook). Yarn over, pull loop through all 3 loops on hook (this completes one cluster). Chain 1 to close the cluster. This photo shows what a completed cluster made with 2 double crochet will look like.

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cl4 Cluster 4 (worked from the wrong side): sl 4 with yarn in back (wyib), pass yarn to front, sl the same 4 sts back to left-hand needle, pass yarn to back, sl 4 wyib again.- Combination Treble: Wind yarn twice around needle and insert into work and pull through, yarn over needle and pull through two, yarn over needle and pull through two, leaving two loops on the needle, yarn over needle twice again, insert into work and pull through, yarn over needle. and pull through two, yarn over and pull through two, leaving three stitches on the needle, yarn over and pull through three. dc (Double Crochet): With needle holding one loop, yo once over needle, put needle into work and draw yarn through. This will leave three loops on needle. Yarn once over needle and pull through two. Again yarn over needle and pull through remaining two. dcb (double crochet back): [yo, with hook at front of work, insert hook from below into the remaining front lp below next sc (skip the sc behind this stitch), yo and draw lp through, [yo and through 2 lps] twice - dcb made. dec hdc - Decrease Half Double crochet YO insert hook in next st, pull up a loop, insert hook in next st pull up a loop, YO and pull hook through all 4 loops on hook

Cl stem Cluster on a Stem Yo 5 times, insert hook in center st of next 3-sc group, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, draw through 2 loops on hook) 5 times, leaving last 2 loops on hook, counting from bottom of stitch just made, make 2 trc cluster in 3rd cross strand, yo, draw through 4 loops on hook, ch 5, 3 trc cluster in same place to complete the stitch.

cont continue Do the same, work the same cms centimeters

Measurements 1.0 centimeters = 0.39 inches

CN

Cable Needle

Usually short needle pointed on both end

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with a half circle in the middle to hold sts while makes cables

CO cast on

see cast-on above

co casting off / Bind or Cast off

Knitting Working in your pattern, slip the first stitch. Knit or purl the next stitch. You now have two stitches on your right hand needle. Slip the first stitch up and over the second stitch on the right hand needle. Now you will have one st on your needle. Knit the next stitch on the left-hand needle and slip it again up and over the second stitch. You again have just one stitch on your needle. Continue across the row. Remember to bind off the stitches as it is worked unless asked to do otherwise. Finishing Crochet To finish, simply cut the yarn leaving about a 6-inch tail and insert your hook in the last stitch, catch the yarn with the hook, pull the yarn through to form a knot. Done. You will weave the end of the yarn into the backside of your work. Finishing either knitting or crochet can be done with a crocheted SHRIMP stitch. This is the same as single crochet stitch except it is worked in the opposite direction, working left to right. Keeping the right side of the work facing you. Following the edge around, and going through the top two loops, single crochet your way across the edge. Left to right.

col color

Con contrasting color see cc / CC above

cont

continue see cont above

Counting Chains Each chain or "loop" counts as one stitch. To count the chains correctly, make sure that they are all facing you and not twisted. The loop on the hook and the slipknot at the beginning of the foundation chain are never counted. There will always be just one loop

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on the hook after completing every stitch and this is called the working loop.

Cr

Cross Move stitch over in front or in back either right or left

Cr L Cross to the Left

move to the left

Cr R Cross to the Right

move to the right

cr st / cross st Cross Stitch (es) knitting This can be worked from in front or in back of previous stitch by crossing in front of or in back of last stitch. Crochet Cross-stitches are usually worked in double crochet, but can be made from different types of stitches, such as triple crochet. Double crochet cross-stitch: Dc in stitch indicated by pattern instructions, (skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, working in back or front of last dc, dc in skipped stitch) repeat to end of row.

D’s

dbl dec Double Decrease dec 2 stitches

dble double Two, two times

dble tr double treble crochet Row 1: Make your foundation chain. Skip 5

ch, yo 3 times and insert your hook under top of the 6th ch, yo, and draw the yarn through ch loop only. You will now have 5 loops on the hook. *Yo. Draw your yarn through 2 loops only. Repeat *to* 3 times more. Row 2: Double tripe made. Continue working across the row working all stitches to the end of the row. Row 3: To make the next row of dtr, mm your work, and chain 5. This tch (turning chain) will become the first st, which will be at the base of the tch. Work 1 dtr inserting

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your hook under the top 2 loops and the 2nd st in the previous row. Work 1 dtr inserting your hook under the top 2 loops and the 2nd st in the previous row. Work 1 dtr into next and each of the stitches to the end of the row, including the t-ch.

dbl st Double Stitch. Ch 1 sc first 2 sts tog; for a double stitch , insert hook in same st as last sc made, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook in next unworked st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw through all 3 loops on hook; dbl st across with sc in same st as last dbl st.

dc double crochet Make your foundation chain. Skip 3 ch, yo, inset the hook in to the loop of the 4th ch. yo. Row 1: Draw the yarn through the ch loop only. (There are now 3 loops on your hook) yo. Row 2: Draw yarn through 2 loops only (2 loops on hook). Yo Row 3: Draw yarn through these 2 loops. One double crochet made. Continue working your dc into the next stitch and all stitches to the end of the row. Row 4: To make another row and all following rows of dc, turn work and ch 3. (This turning stitch counts as first de in the next row). Skip the st at the base of the turning stitch and work 1 de, inserting hook under top 2 loops of the 2nd st in the previous row. Work one de into the next and each st to the end of the row, including the turning stitch.

dec decrease knitting Either knit or purl two stitches together. One decrease is made. OR, slip one stitch as if to knit, to the right hand needle, and knit the next stitch. Insert your left-hand needle into the front of the slipped st and pass it up and over your knitted stitch. crochet Insert hook in the stitch, catch yarn, pull through loop, and leave on hook. Repeat in

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the next stitch and pull up loop. Yarn over hook and pull through, 2 loops at the same time. One decrease is made. If decreases are made scattered throughout the piece, it will be almost invisible. When you are decreasing at the beginning of the row, an angle is created. More than one stitch being deceased on the end of any row and a sharp curve will form. If you're decreasing in the middle of the row, one row on top of another row, a vertical line will appear in your work. If looking for vertical lines that will be slanted to the right or left, follow the instructions for the increase directions except you'll be doing a decrease.

diag diagonal corner to corner

diam diameter Thickness of yarn or a stitch

dpn double-pointed needle Usually used for knitting in the round.

dtr double treble crochet Row 1: Make your foundation chain. Skip 5 ch, yo 3 times and insert your hook under top of the 6th ch, yo, and draw the yarn through ch loop only. You will now have 5 loops on the hook. *Yo. Draw your yarn through 2 loops only. Repeat *to* 3 times more. Row 2: Double tripe made. Continue working across the row working all stitches to the end of the row. Row 3: To make the next row of dtr, mm your work, and chain 5. This tch (turning chain) will become the first st, which will be at the base of the tch. Work 1 dtr inserting your hook under the top 2 loops and the 2nd st in the previous row. Work 1 dtr inserting your hook under the top 2 loops and the 2nd st in the previous row. Work 1 dtr into next and each of the stitches to the end of the row, including the t-ch.

DW Drop Wrap Drop extra wrappings off needle as the stitch is slipped.

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E’s

E every All

EOR Every Other Row

Esc Extended Single Crochet

Insert hook in next stitch as indicated by pattern instructions, draw up a loop, yo, draw through one loop on hook, yo, draw through last 2 loops on hook to complete the stitch.

ext exterior outside

F’s

FC Front Cross

knitting 2FC - Double Front Cross. Sl 2 sts to dpn and hold in front, p1, then k2 from dpn. 3FC - Triple Front Cross. Sl 3 sts to dpn and hold in front, p1, then k3 from dpn. crochet 2FC - Double Front Cross. Skip 2 sts, from behind, dc in back loop only on next stitch, then go back and dc the skipped 2. 3FC - Triple Front Cross. Skip 3 sts, from behind, dc in back loop only on next stitch, then go back and dc the skipped 3.

FDKC Front Double Knit Cross

knitting Sl 2 k sts to dpn and hold in front, k2, then k2 from dpn. crochet See note above

fin finished Done

FKC Front Knit Cross knit 1 .Sl 2 k sts to dpn, hold in front, kl, then k2 from dpn. 2 .Sl 2 sts to dpn, hold in front then k2 from dpn. crochet see note above

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FLI Front Lifted Increase From the second row on make each stitch normally but insert hook in front and from right to left around post of stitch below.

foll following the next stitch or stitches or pattern

FPC Front Purl Cross Sl 2 k sts to dpn, hold in front, pl, then k2 from dpn.

FPdc Front Post Double Crochet

YO, insert hook from front to back to front around post of st indicated, draw up lp to height of working Row; {YO and draw through 2 lps on hook twice.

FT Front Twist Slip 1 St and knit the 2nd St in back loop; then knit the skipped St in back loop; then Sl both sts from needle together. hdc - Half Double Crochet (hdc) - You'll start just like the double crochet. Yarn over and put the hook into the third chain from the hook. Yarn over again and pull the hook through the chain. You should now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over again, and pull the hook through all three loops. You should end up with one loop on the hook. You have just completed one half-double crochet.

G’s

g-st garter stitch Knit every row

gr grams A metric unit of weight

gp group Any number of stitches as a unit

GN Gauge Needle The diameter of the needle is indicated by the needle gauge

H’s

hdc / Half dc Half Double Crochet Row 1: Make your foundation chain. Skip 2

ch, yo and insert your hook under the top loop of the 3rd ch. Make a yo.

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Row 2: Draw your yarn through the chain loop only, (there are now 3 loops on your hook) yo. Draw your yarn through all 3 loops. Half crochet made. Continue into the next stitch and all following chs to the end of the row. Row 3: To make the next row and all following rows of hdc, mm work and ch 2. This mining stitch counts as the first dc in your row. Skip first st, which will be at the base of your turning stitch. Work one hdc, inserting your hook under the top two loops of the 2nd st in the previous row. Work 1 hdc into the next and each of the following sts to the end, including the top of the t-ch. (turning chain)

I’s

inc increase

add to

incl including

part of something

incl inclusive

Including much or everything

in (s) inch (es)

equal to one twelfth of a foot

inst instructions

directions or pattern

inc increase knitting Knit into the front of the stitch in the usual way but do not remove it from the left-hand needle. Insert right hand needle and knit into the back of the same stitch. Slip the new stitches off the left-hand needle onto the right hand needle. Your one stitch has become two. This will make a small bump on the right side of your work. But when used on the edge, it will not be noticeable. OR insert your needle from to back under the horizontal strand of yarn between 2 stitches. Knit this. Remove the new stitch from in-between the rows to your right hand needle. This method is not noticeable, but will leave a small hole in your work.

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OR if you want no noticeable hole in your work, try this. Knit up to the stitch you want to increase. Knit it from in the front and the back, now move it to your left needle. STOP. Turn your work as if to purl. Slip one stitch on your right needle, but do not purl it. Now put your yarn between the two needles and turn your work back to the knit side. You will not knit the first stitch, which is the slipped st. What you have just done is 'hold' your two stitches together. I have found this to be the least noticeable increase I've seen. crochet Make 2 single crochet in a single crochet stitch. One increase is made. Wasn't that easy? OR if you're working on double crochet, make two double crochets in the same stitch in the previous row. Whatever stitches your working on, double, half-double, treble, anywhere in the row you want to. When you are, making one increase above another, working each row in the same place to create a vertical line in your work. To slant to the line to right on the right side of your work, work each increase stitch one stitch before your last increase on the previous row. On the left side, work your increase on the second stitch, or one stitch past your increase on the previous row.

K’s

K / k Knit This has a smooth flat surface 1. To knit the cast on row, hold the cast on needle in your left hand and the empty needle in your right. Keeping the yarn behind your work, hold the second needle in your right and insert it into the front going to the back of the left hand needle. 2. With the yarn being held with your right hand, bring the yarn up and over the right hand needle tip. 3. Draw the yarn through the loop and push the new stitch toward the tip of the left-hand needle so you will be able to slip it onto the

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right hand needle. 4. Repeat 2 and 3 working your way down the left-hand needle. Turn your work. You're now ready to purl.

Kl-2W knit1 2 wraps knitting Kl wrapping yarn twice around needle. crochet yo twice

KBl knit back 1 knitting Knit into back of next stitch. crochet crochet in back loop only

kwise knitwise taking the stitch off the needle knit wise or as you would knit it.

k2tog knit 2 stitches together

knitting Knit 2 stitches together as one stitch. Crochet work 2 stitches together.

K2TOG-B knit 2 stitches together back

Insert the needle into the back loops of two stitches and knit them together as one stitch.

kbl knit from back of loop

Kl-B - Knit 1 stitch through its back loop, inserting the needle into the stitch from the right-hand side.

kfb knitting knit from back of next stitch crochet work from the back loop only

k2tog-b knit 2 stitches together through the back loop.

kpk knit, purl, knit in the same stitch

k up 1 pick up and knit the stitch in the row below

kssb knit slip stitch through the back

knit slip stitch through the back.

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L’s

L left on the left side, left-hand needle, hold in your left hand

L light color or weight or density l.h. / lhn left hand needle Knitting needle you hold in your left hand.

LH Left Hand Left side, your left hand needle.

LC Left Cross LC - Left Cross. Drop (slipped) St off needle

to front of work, pl, then pick up dropped St and knit it.

lg large

LI Lifted Increase Insert right-hand needle into the front of next St in the Row below, and knit; then knit the St on needle.

LKS Left Knit Slip Drop (knitted) sl-st off needle to front of work, knit the next St, pick up dropped St and knit it.

Long sc/Lsc Long Single Crochet Insert hook in stitch indicated by pattern instructions, 2 rounds or rows below, draw up a long loop, yarn over, draw through both loops on hook to complete the stitch.

Loop st Loop Stitch knitting Knit your stitch but do not remove the stitch, bring your yarn to the front between your needles and make a loop as long as you'd like, (you can hold the loop with your thumb or wrap the yarn around your thumb). Now take the yarn to the back by passing it again between your needles. Now knit the same st again but this time move both sts to the right hand needle. With the tip of your left hand needle take the second st on your right hand needle up and over the first st. This locks the loop in place. crochet 1. Forming loops over a strip: First make a foundation row of single

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crochet, ch 1, and turn; * bracing strip behind the work with left hand (right hand for left handers), insert hook in next stitch, transfer strip to right hand (left hand) and take yarn, around strip front to back, draw up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops; repeat from * across, sliding loops off and moving strip forward as it becomes filled. 2. Forming loops over fingers: First make a foundation row of single crochet, ch 1 and turn; * insert hook in next stitch, swing 3rd and 4th fingers of left hand (right hand) forward under yarn, then back against the yarn so that a loop is formed over these fingers, draw a loop through the stitch, pulling it over top of 3rd finger, yo, draw through 2 loops, slip fingers out of the loop; repeat from * across.

LPS Left Purl Slip Drop (knitted) sl-st off needle to front of work, purl the next St, pick up dropped St and knit it.

LS Left Slip Drop (knitted) sl-st off needle to front of work, pl, pick up dropped St and knit it.

LSC Left Slip-Cross Drop the elongated St off needle to front of work, Sl next 2 purl sts, pick up dropped St and place on left-hand needle, Sl the same 2 purl sts back to left-hand needle, then p2, kl across these 3 sts.

LT / L TR Long Treble Wind yarn four times around needle and insert into work and pull yarn through, which will leave six loops on needle. Work off two at a time the same as for Double Crochet.

LT Left Twist 1. Skip 1 st and purl the 2nd St through back loop, then knit the skipped St, then Sl both sts from needle together: 2. Skip 1 St and knit into the back of second St, then-knit the skipped St, then Sl both sts from needle together. 3. Skip 1 St and knit the second St in 'back loop, then slip the skipped St purl wise onto right-hand needle, then slip the knit St.

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M’s

M Make

M marker Usually a small plastic circle to make your place to start or stop knitting.

m mesh(es) Open knitting or crocheting. Open squares

m meters a unit of length adopted (approximately 1.094 yards)

M1 Make One one increase worked by lifting the horizontal yarn between the needles or sts and placing it onto the left-hand needle. Work this new stitch through the back loop. One st made.

MB Make Bobble 1. (yo, kl) 3 times into the next St, forming 6 bobble sts; turn work around and Sl 1, p5 across these 6sts; turn again and Sl 1, k5; turn again and (p2tog) 3 times; turn again and Sl 1, k2tog, psso. 2. (kl, yo, kl, yo, kl) into the same St, forming 5 bobble sts; turn work around and p5 across bobble St; turn again and k5, then pass the 4th, 3rd, 2nd, and lst sts separately over the last St knitted. 3. (kl, yo, kl, yo, kl) into the same St, turn and p5, turn and k5, turn and p5,, turn and ssk, kl, k2tog,turn p3tog, turn and wyib Sl bobble St onto right-hand needle. 4. (kl, yo, kl, yo, kl) in next St, turn and p5, turn and k5, turn and p2tog, pl, p2tog; turn and 1,k2tog, psso. 5. (kl, pl) twice into next St, turn and p4, turn and k4, turn and t2tog twice, turn and k2tog. 6. (k4, turn, p4, turn) 3 times, then pick up a loop from the first Row of bobble and knit it tog with lst st on left-hand needle; k2, then pick up a loop from lst Row of bobble and knit it tog with next st. 7. Knit into front, back, and front of same st; turn and k3, turn and p3, then pass 2nd and 3rd sts separately over the first st on right-hand needle.

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8. Knit into front, back and front of next st, turn and k3, turn and p3, turn and k3, turn and sl 1,k2tog, psso. crochet see bobble above

MC Main (or background) color

med medium

MK Make Knot (kl, pl, kl, pl, kl) loosely in next st, then with point of left-hand needle pass the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th sts on right-hand needle separately over the last st made.

mm millimeters Metric measurement

m-st Moss increase knitting Knit the stitch normally but without transferring the knitted stitch to the right needle; the same stitch is then purled. This increase makes a bar at the base of the stitch crochet The starting chain should be an odd number of stitches. Foundation Row : Sc in 3rd ch from hook. * ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch *. Repeat from * to * across. Ch 2 (counts as turning chain and first chain 1). Turn. Pattern Row: Skip first sc, * sc in ch 1 space, ch 1, skip next sc *. Repeat from * to * across. End with sc in ch 2 of previous row. Ch 2. Turn. Repeat Pattern Row for desired length.

MR Make Ringlet P2, then keep yarn in front sl these 2 sts back to left-hand needle; take yarn around (passing in front of the 2 sts) to back, sl the sts back to right-hand needle.

mult multiple(s) More than one st.

MY main yarn

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N’s

no number how many

O’s

O Yarn Over: Do not insert right needle into any stitches!

Just wrap yarn as usual, making sure to finish with it to the back of the knitting again. There are many ways of writing the symbol for yarn over, as you will see.

opp opposite Being directly across from each other; facing each other.

ORL

or required length Make longer or shorter.

OZ ounces

one twelfth of a pound

P’s

p picot knitting

The folded picot edge is actually quite simple. Start with a provisional crochet chain cast on, knit a few rows, knit a row of *yarn over, knit 2 together* stitches, knit several more rows and then fold the cuff in half and knit the cast on stitches together with the current row. or Cast on five stitches, bind off two stitches, slip the first stitch on the right needle back onto the left needle. Repeat steps one through three until the desired number of stitches have been cast on. crocheted Crocheted "small points". Used for edgings. Each picot is made with a chain of 4 or so then sc back into the first sc making a small loop or circle.

p purl 1. Hold the needle with the knitted stitches in your left hand. Keeping the yarn in front of

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your work. Insert the right hand needle into the front of the first stitch on the left-hand needle, but this time you'll be pointing the tip from back to from. (Working from behind your left-hand needle.) 2. Bring the yarn from the front of your work around the point of the right hand needle and then pull under it. 3. Draw the loop on the right needle through the stitch and push the new stitch toward the tip of the left needle so you will be able to slip it on to your right hand needle. 4. Repeat this down the left needle as many times as you have stitches. Attention: One row of knit and one row of purl will be referred to as stockinette. The knit side will look smooth while the purl side will look bumpy.

P1-B Purl 1 back Purl 1 stitch through its back loop, turning the work over slightly toward the knitter, inserting the needle into the back of the stitch from the left-hand side, and wrapping the yarn around the needle in front a purl stitch in the usual way.

p2tog purl 2 stitches together

Purl 2 stitches together as one stitch.

p2tog-b purl 2 sts together through the back loop

Turn the work over slightly and insert the needle from the left-hand side into the back loops of the second and first stitches, in that order, then wrap the yarn around the needle in front to complete the purl stitch.

Pat(s) pattern ( s )

patt pattern

PBl Purl back in 1 stitch knit purl into back of next stitch. crochet go through back loop only on next stitch.

pc popcorn Knitting Popcorn or Bobble Stitch - knit - To do the bobble (or sometimes called the popcorn)

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stitch. You (k 1, p1, k 1, p1, k 1) all in the same stitch. Then on your purl Row you p 5 tog. (It will be very tight but it can be done.) This forms the popcorn. You can just push the popcorn to the front side of your work and it will stay there. There are many methods of knitting bobbles. Select the stitch, which is to become a bobble. K into the front, then the back of the stitch, and do it again, twice more. You now have 6 stitches, made from one, on your right-hand needle. Turn your work and knit these 6 stitches. Turn your work again, lift stitch #2 over stitch #1 and drop it, then do the same with the other 4 stitches. You are now back to the one stitch you started with, and have a bobble. Variations: Instead of knitting in the front, then the back of the stitch, you can knit, and then purl into the same stitch. You can do fewer stitches for a smaller bobble - 4 stitches make a nice, small "bump". If you want a giant, turn your work and knit the bubble stitches several times. Crochet This way will make the popcorn puff out on the front side of your work: 1. To have the popcorn puff out on the front of the work: Work 5 dc in the same stitch, drop loop from hook, insert hook from front to back in the top of the first dc of group. 2. Pull dropped loop through stitch. This way will make the popcorn puff out on the back side (usually the "inside") of your work: 1. To have the popcorn puff out on the back of the work: Work 5 dc in the same stitch, drop loop from hook, insert hook from back to front in the top of the first dc of group. 2. Pull dropped loop through stitch.

PD Purl Double stitch knitting Insert needle from back to front into the stitch below the next st, which will be formed of double strands, wrap yarn as if to purl and draw a loop out backward; then purl the next

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stitch and pass the loop over the stitch just purled. crochet work dc stitch in front loop only

pfb purl into front and back

knitting PFB - Purl front and back - purl into front and back of the next stitch.

pfl purl from back of loop purl through back loop purl into the back of the stitch instead of the front of the stitch. This gives a tighter stitch and is sometimes used for ribbing.

pnso pass next stitch over knitting pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch . crochet Pass yarn under and over hook

POK-ST Pulled Out Knit Stitch knitting With the tip of the right-hand needle pick up the knit stitch 2 rows below the next stitch on the left-hand needle. Put the picked up stitch onto the left-hand needle and k2tog TBL. crochet With the crochet hook pick up the crochet stitch 2 rows below the next stitch and loop through from the top. Work this loop along with your loop already on your hook tog.

pr pair working 2

PR / prey Previous Row or Round

the row above

prec preceding coming before

psso pass slipped stitch over

Insert the tip of the left-hand needle into a stitch that has been slipped, and draw the slipped stitch to the left over the stitch just knitted, over the tip of the right-hand needle, and off needle. PSSO and SSK are the same - Slip, slip, knit works two stitches together into one, resulting in a left-slanting decrease. It is

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useful for shaping or may be combined with corresponding increases to form patterns. The ssk is the mirror of the k2tog. SSP - SSP (slip slip, P2tog tbl), left slanting decrease: Slip two stitches knit wise, 1 at a time. Pass the two stitches back to the L needle. Insert R needle into BOTH of these stitches as you would to purl through the back loops, wrap yarn around R needle as usual, pull yarn through both loops, and drop loops off L needle. Alternate - like S1 K1 PSSO, but even more awkward: P1, S1 knit wise, return both to L needle, PSSO, then return purled stitch to R needle.

PU Pick Up stitches You can retrieve the dropped stitch or stitches with a crochet hook. Or Pick up stitches around the neck or armhole or Pick up stitches a row or two down from your working row with you hook or needle.

pwise purlwise to move the stitch un-worked to the right-hand needle as your would purl the stitch.

R’s

RC Right Cross 1 .Sl 1 purl st wyib, drop next (slipped) st off

needle to front of work, sl the same purl st back to left-hand needle, pick up dropped st and knit it, pl. 2. Sl 3 sts to dpn and hold in back, k2, then sl the purl st from dpn back to left-hand needle and purl it, then k2 from dpn.

rem remain(ing) rest off, work remaining stitches

rep repeat do over again

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Reverse hdc Reverse Half Double Crochet

Working from left to right (opposite for left-handed individuals), yo, insert hook in st indicated to right of the hook, draw up a loop, under and to the left of loops on hook (3 loops on hook), yo, draw through all 3 loops on hook to complete the stitch. Also see instructions on how to work a Shrimp Stitch.

rev st st reverse stockinette stitch

Knitting Is the same way as stockinette, except that the purl stitches are done on the right side and the knit stitches on the wrong side. In the working in the round the reverse stockinette stitch is worked by purling every stitch. Crochet Working in the round go through back loop only.

RFC Reverse Front Cross 1. Sl 1 st to dpn and hold in front (at the wrong side, which is facing the knitter), p2, then kl from dpn. 2. (Worked from the wrong side): Sl 2 sts to dpn and hold in front, pl, then sl the knit st from dpn back to left-hand needle and knit it, then pl from dpn.

RH Right Hand

rhn right hand needle Needle you hold in your right hand is called the right-hand needle.

rib ribbing Knitting Most often you will work the ribbing in kl, pl, or k2, p2, until you have 2 or 3 inches. This pattern will allow the garment to pull in and fit to the body more than straight knitting. The larger the number for ribbing, 4k, 4p or 5k, 5p the tighter the ribbing. Crochet Single Crochet in back loop only is a very easy ribbing for any crochet sweater. Working your ribbing from side to side, instead of working the ribbing from the

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bottom up, as in knitting. After sewing side seams, start with the chain on row. Attach your yarn to the chain row. You'll chain down from the bottom front as many chains as you want long. Working up and down (instead back and forth) you will single crochet in the back loop only of the previous row. Turn. Again single crochet in the back loop only of the previous row. Continue ribbing around the bottom of your garment, skipping every 3rd or 4th chain (this creates the elasticity of the ribbing.) When you get back to the garments starting point, you'll be connecting the two pieces by weaving them together using a slipstitch. Remember to skip ever 3rd or 4th ch when going around. OR you can do this off your piece. Single crochet in top loop only again up and down until you have it as long as you're looking for. Weave your ribbing to your garment.

RK Raised Knit Stitch Insert needle into the st below next st on left-hand needle and draw yarn through (2 st on right-hand needle), purl the next st on left-hand needle (2 sts on right-hand needle), pass the first of these 2 sts over the last the last st.

RKS Right Knit Slip Sl 1 wyib, drop next st off needle to front of work, sl the same st back to left-hand needle, pick up dropped st and knit it, kl.

RLT Reverse Left Twist Skip 1 st and purl the 2nd st in back loop, then purl the skipped st, then sl both sts from needle together.

RN Right Needle see rhn above

rnd ( s) round(s) working in rounds or circles not rows.

Roll st Roll Stitch knitting Yarn over 5 times, or as many times as indicated by pattern. crochet instructions, insert hook in next st, yo and draw loop through st and all loops on hook,

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ch 1, to complete the stitch. This will produce a series of long coiled stitches, used in belts, edgings etc.

RP Raised Purl Stitch Insert needle purl wise into the st below next st on left-hand needle and draw yarn through (1 st on right-hand needle), now purl the next st on left-hand needle (2 sts on right-hand needle), pass the first of these 2 sts over the last st.

RPS Right Purl Slip Sl 1 wyib, drop next st off needle to front of work, sl the same st back to left-hand needle, pick up dropped st and knit it, pl.

rpt repeat do again

RRT Reverse Right Twist 1. Skip 1 st and purl the 2nd st, then p2tog (the skipped st and the 2nd st) and sl both sts from needle together. 2. Skip 1 st and purl the 2nd st, then purl the skipped st and sl both sts from needle together.

RS Right Side

RS Right slip sl 1 purl at wyib, drop next (knitted) sl-st off needle in front of work, sl same purl st back to left-hand needle, pick up dropped st and knit it, pl.

RSC Right Slip-Cross Sl 2 purl sts, drop next (elongated) st off needle to front of work, sl the same 2 purl sts back to left hand needle, pick up dropped st and place it on left-hand needle, then kl, p2 across these 3 sts.

RT Right Twist 1. Skip 1 st and knit the 2nd st, then purl the skipped st, then sl both sts from needle together. 2. Skip 1 st and knit into the front of second st, then knit the skipped st, then sl both sts from needle together.

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S’s SBC Single Back Cross 1. Sl 1 st to dpn and hold in back, kl-b, and

then pl from dpn. 2. Sl 1 st to dpn and hold in back, k2, then pl from dpn.

sc / sc t single crochet A simple compact stitch. This stitch will be found in most patterns and will form a firm smooth surface on both sides. Row 1: Working with your chain called your foundation chain, Skip 2 ch, insert hook under the top of the 3rd ch. Catch the yarn into the hook, yo, yarn through chain loop only. Row 2: Now there will be two loops on the hook. Catch the yarn by the hook, yo, and pull through both loops on your hook. A single stitch is made. Row 3: Continue working sc into the next and all following chains until you come to the end of your chain. Row 4: Turn. Work one chain, (this one loop on the hook will be called the turning chain). Skip the first st at the base of the turning chain. Work 1 sc into the top 2 loops of 2nd st in the previous row. Continue to work 1 sc into the next and each of the stitches to the end of your work. Now remember to make your turning stitch. This stitch is always worked by going into the top 2 loops at the same time. Working just one, either the front or back, will give your work a ridge, or what will be called "ribbing".

sdc Short Double Crochet Start with the one loop on your hook going into the stitch as if you were going to make a single crochet and pull through a loop. YO and pull through that loop one time like a chain stitch, then YO again and go through both loops on the hook. Short double crochet completed. This stitch is thinner than the bulk of the half double crochet stitch. Used in delicate items like in a doily or lace piece.

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sel selvage the edge of your work or garment.

SFC Single Front Cross Sl 1 st to kpn and hold in front, pl, then kl-b from dpn.

Sh Shell Stitch knitting multiple of 9 sts plus 3 Row 1 (RS) K2, * yo, k8, yo, k1; rep from * , end last rep k2 instead of k1. Row 2 K3, * p8, k3; rep from * to end. Row 3 K3, * yo, k8, yo, k3; rep from * to end. Row 4 K4, * p8, k5; rep from *, end last rep k4. Row 5 K4, * yo, k8, yo, k5; rep from *, end last rep k4. Row 6 K5, * p8, k7; rep from *, end last rep k5. Row 7 K5, * k4 tog thru back lps, k4 tog, k7; rep from * , end last rep k5. Row 8 Knit. Rep Rows 1 - 8 for pat st. crochet Shell stitches are usually worked with double crochets and can be varied by as few or as many stitches as indicated by pattern instructions as well as different types of stitches, such as triple crochet stitches. Standard shell: (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) or (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next stitch or space as indicated by pattern instructions to complete the shell.

sk skip do not work this stitch. Pass over this stitch.

SK2P Skip stitch k2 pass Slip next stitch, k2tog, then psso

SKC Single Knit Cross Slip 1 st to dpn and hold in back, kl, then kl from dpn.

skn(s) skein(s) Balls, hanks, cones and skeins are all ways to buy yarn.

SKP Slip, knit, pass slip 1, knit 1, pass slip stitch over.

skpo Slip, knit, pass over slip 1, knit 1, pass slip stitch over.

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Shrimp st Shrimp Stitch work a sc in reverse or

Working from left to right, insert hook in stitch to the right of hook, pull up a loop, under and to the left of loop on hook (2 loops on hook), yo, draw through both loops on hook to complete the stitch. This makes a nice edging for many projects, and is sometimes called the reverse or backward stitch.

sl 1f Slip a stitch onto the cable needle at front of the work

cable knitting

sl lb Slip a st onto the cable needle at back of the work

cable knitting

sl slip pass over, do not work. This is different than a slipstitch.

SL 2 TOG KNIT-WISE

sl2tog kw Insert needle into the next 2 sts on left hand needle as if to k2tog then slip both sts onto right hand needle without knitting them.

SL ST / sl st Slip stitch 1. Make your foundation chain. 2. Insert the hook from front to back under the top of the 2nd chain (ch) from the hook. Wrap the tarn around the hook to make a yo (yarn over). 3. Draw yarn through the 2 loops now on your hook making a slipstitch. To continue working another slipstitch, insert the hook into the next chain and repeat # 2 above. This stitch is only used to join row into a round, to decrease and for joining seams.

Slant st Slant Stitch A slant stitch is used in conjunction with a crochet grouping of stitches and can be varied by as few or as many stitches as indicated by pattern instructions as well as different types of stitches, such as double crochet or triple crochet stitches. 5 dc slant st/with diagonal dc:

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[Yo, insert hook in next st, pull up a loop, (yo, draw through 2 loops on hook) twice] 4 times, yo, working around double crochet grouping, insert hook in same stitch as first double crochet is worked, yo, draw up a loop even with loop on hook, (yarn over, draw through 2 loops on hook) twice to complete stitch.

sm small

sp single point needle (s)

weaving, knitting needles

sp space (open mesh)

SP 2 Spiral 2 Work across next 2 stitches as follows: k2tog but do not slip sts from left-hand needle, k into the first of these 2 sts once more, then slip sts from left-hand needle.

Split sc Split Single Crochet Single crochet between vertical bars of st in last round.

ssk slip, slip, knit. Slip first stitch on left needle as if to knit . Slip next stitch on left needle as if to knit. Insert tip of left needle in the front through both slipped stitches. Wrap yarn around tip of right needle and then knit these two stitches together. SSK and PSSO are the same - Slip, slip, knit works two stitches together into one, making in a left-slanting decrease. It is used for shaping shoulders or combined with other stitches and increases to form patterns. The ssk is the opposite of the k2tog. SSP - SSP (slip slip, P2tog tbl), left slanting decrease: Slip two stitches knit wise, 1at a time. Pass the two stitches back to the left hand needle. Insert right hand needle into both of these stitches as you would to purl, wrap yarn around right hand needle as usual, pull yarn through both loops, and drop loops off left needle.

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Or - like S1 K1 PSSO, work this one P1, S1 knit wise, return both to L needle, PSSO, then return purled stitch to R needle.

st st stockinette stitch The most basic pattern. Row 1; Knit all stitches across row. Row 2. Purl all stitches across row. repeat for desired length.

st(s) stitch(es) connecting loops

T’s

T2 Twist 2 knitting

Slip next st onto cable needle and hold at back of work, purl into back of next st from left-hand needle then purl into back of next st from cable needle. crochet see Note above.

T2B Twist 2 Back Slip next st onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next st from left-hand needle, then purl from cable needle.

T2F Twist 2 Front Slip next st onto cable needle and hold at front of work, purl next st from left-hand needle, then knit st from cable needle.

T2L Twist 2 Left. Slip next st onto a cable needle and hold at front of work, purl next st from left-hand needle, then knit into back of next st from cable needle.

T2R Twist 2 Right Slip next st onto a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit into back of next st from left-hand needle, then purl st from cable needle.

T3B Twist 3 Back Slip next st onto a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, then purl st from cable needle.

T3F Twist 3 Front Slip next 2 sts onto a cable needle and hold

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at front of work, purl next st from left-hand needle, and then knit sts from cable needle.

T3L Twist 3 Left Slip next st onto a cable needle and hold at front of work, work (KB1, pl) from left-hand needle, then KBl from cable needle.

T3R - Twist 3 Right Slip next 2 sts onto a cable needle and hold at back of work, KBl from left-hand needle, then (p1, KB1) from cable needle.

T4B Twist 4 Back Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, and then purl the 2 sts from cable needle.

T4F Twist 4 Front Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, purl next 2 sts from left-hand needle, and then knit sts from cable needle.

T4L Twist 4 Left Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, kl, pl, from left-hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle.

T4R Twist 4 Right. Slip next 2 sts onto a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, then pl, kl from cable needle.

T5B Twist 5 Back Slip next 2 sts onto a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 3 sts from left-hand needle, and then purl sts from cable needle.

T5BR Twist 5 Back Right Slip next 3 sts onto a cable needle and leave at back of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, then purl the 3 sts from cable needle

T5F Twist 5 Front Slip next 3 sts onto a cable needle and hold at front of work, purl next 2 sts from left-hand needle, and then knit sts from cable needle.

T5FL Twist 5 Front Left Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, purl next 3 sts from left-hand needle, and then knit the 2 sts from cable needle.

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T5L Twist 5 Left Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, k2, pl from left-hand needle then k2 from cable needle.

T5R Twist 5 Right Slip next 3 sts onto a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, then pl, k2 from the cable needle.

T6B Twist 6 Back Slip next 3 sts onto a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 3 sts from left-hand needle, and then purl sts from cable needle.

T6F Twist 6 Front. Slip next 3 sts onto a cable needle and hold at front of work, purl next 3 sts from left-hand needle, and then knit sts from cable needle.

T6L Twist 6 Left Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, work k2, p2 from left-hand needle, and then knit the 2 sts from cable needle.

T6R Twist 6 Right Slip next 4 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, then work p2, k2 from cable needle.

tbl through back of loop In Knitting: (sometimes also written kbl for 'knit through back loop') Knit into the back of the stitch instead of the front of the stitch. Twisted ribbing uses this stitch. In Crochet: Each crochet stitch has 2 loops on the top of the stitch. Usually, you will insert your hook under both loops of the stitch. Some stitches call for crocheting into just the front or just the back loop.

TC treble crochet Row 1: Make your length of foundation chain. Skip 4 ch, yo twice and insert your hook under top loop of 5th ch. Yo. Row 2: Draw your yarn through the chain loop only. (There will be 4 loops on your hook.) Yo. Row 3: Draw yarn through 2 loops only. 3 loops on the hook. Yo. Row 4: Draw yarn through 2 loops only. Draw your yarn through remaining 2 loops. Triple crochet made. Continue working tr in

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the next, and all following chains to the end of your row. Row 5: To make the next row of tr, turn your work and ch 4. This turning chain counts as the first tr in the next row. Skip st, which is at the base of your turning hook. Work 1 tr, inserting your hook under the top 2 loops of 2nd st in previous row. Work 1 tr into the next and each st to the end of the row, including into t-ch.

t ch turning chain Number of Turning Chains required to start your next crochet row. Slipstitch 0, single crochet (sc) 1, half double crochet (hdc) 2, double crochet (dc) 3, triple treble crochet (tr tr) 4.

tfl through front loop see tbl above

tog together 2 or more worked at the same time.

tr tr triple treble Row 1: Make your length of foundation chain. Skip 4 ch, yo twice and insert your hook under top loop of 5th ch. Yo. Row 2: Draw your yarn through the chain loop only. (There will be 4 loops on your hook.) Yo. Row 3: Draw yarn through 2 loops only. 3 loops on the hook. Yo. Row 4: Draw yarn through 2 loops only. Draw your yarn through remaining 2 loops. Triple crochet made. Continue working tr in the next, and all following chains to the end of your row. Row 5: To make the next row of tr, turn your work and ch 4. This turning chain counts as the first tr in the next row. Skip st, which is at the base of your turning hook. Work 1 tr, inserting your hook under the top 2 loops of 2nd st in previous row. Work 1 tr into the next and each st to the end of the row, including into t-ch.

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tr treble crochet Wind yarn twice around needle, insert needle into work and pull yarn through, leaving four loops on needle. Work off two at a time the same as for Double Crochet.

trn turn turn / turning your work to the reverse side.

Turning corners Knitting Make an increase in the stitches before and after the corner, every other row (make a test patch just to make sure of this -- depending on the yarn you use, this could change) crochet Single Crochet - Make three sc's in the corner, or sc-ch1-sc. Make the next set of increase stitches in the center sc in the corner or the ch1-sp. Half-Double Crochet - Make three hdc's in the corner, or hdc-ch2-hdc. Make the next set of increase stitches in the center hdc or the ch2-sp. Double Crochet - Make five dc's in the corner, or 2dc-ch1-2dc. Make the next set of increase stitches in the center dc of the corner or the ch1-sp. Triple Crochet - Make seven trc's in the corner, or 3trc-ch1-3trc. Make the next set of increase stitches in the center trc of the corner or the ch1-sp.

TW2 Twist Two Knit second st on left-hand needle, knit first st on left-hand needle, slip both sts from needle together.

Tw2L Twist Two Left Slip 1 st to cable needle and hold in front of work. K1, then knit the st from cable needle.

Tw2R twist 2 right Slip 1 st to cable needle and hold in back of work. K1, then knit the st from cable needle.

TW3 Twist Three Slip 2 and knit 3rd st on left-hand needle, knit 2nd st, then knit 1st st and slip all three from needle together.

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V’s

V-st V-Stitch Yarn over, insert hook in stitch or space as indicated by pattern instructions, pull up a loop, (yarn over, draw through 2 loops) twice, ch 2, yarn over, insert hook in same stitch or space, pull up a loop, (yarn over, draw through 2 loops) twice, to complete the stitch.

W’s

wb wool back word for yarn over used in early crochet

patterns Note: You'll soon see there are countless symbols for yarn over below.

WE work even keep doing what your doing without increase or decrease until directed otherwise

wf / wl.fwd wool forward see yarn over (yo) below

wft wool front see yarn front below

wl wool Wool comes from the winter coat of a. sheep.

wl.bk wool back see yarn back below

wo wool over or weave over

see yarn over (yo).

won wool over needle yarn over

wrh wool round hook wrap yarn or yarn over

wrn wool round needle wrap around needle or hook

WS wrong side back side of your work. Usually the inside.

wu wool under or weave under

wyib with the lead yarn in see yb

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the back

wyif with the lead yarn in the front

see yf

Y’s

yarn yarn around needle See yo

yaw yarn around wool See yo

yb Yarn back Hold your yarn in back of your hook and sc in the back of the stitch. or Bring your yarn in back of your work and knit the stitch.

ybk yarn backward see yb above

yf yarn forward see yfwd below

yfd yarn forward see yfwd below

yfon yarn forward and over needle

yarn over

yfrn yarn forward and round needle

see yo below

yfwd yarn forward yarn forward. Hold your yarn in front of your hook and sc in the front of the stitch, or bring your yarn in front of your work and knit the stitch.

yfwk yarn front of work see below yo

yo yarn over Knitting Wrap the yarn over the right needle, up and over away from you, then under the right- hand needle. Work your next stitch by either working a purl or knit the next stitch on the left needle. On the next row the yarn over is treated the same way as any other stitch. Just knit or purl into it in the as your pattern calls for. This stitch will be loose. Be careful it doesn't slip off your needle before you work the stitch.

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Other symbols you'll see as yarn over YRN (yarn round needle), YFRN (yarn forward and round needle), YON (yarn over needle) crochet Crochet the first stitch. Wrap yarn over the hook from the back to the front and crochet as usual. Using a yo will increase the height of your work, or use it to create a pattern with a hole in it. As in lace.

YON yarn over needle see yo above

YFON yarn forward and over needle

see yo above

yrh yarn round hook see yo above

yrn yarn round needle also known as yarn over. See yo above.

ytb yarn to back yarn in back to knit.

ytf yarn to front yarn in front to purl.

Z’s

zip zipper

Symbols

" inches

( ) s alternate measurements & alternate instruction

[ ] alternate measurements between brackets

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( ) repeat all instructions between the parentheses

* repeat all instructions between the asterisks (repeat to *)

* repeat stopping point

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Below you will find some of the most requested pattern exchanges. A few are a repeat from above, some with another way of working the pattern.

Pattern / Stitch Exchanging

Crochet stitches: Has 5 basic stitches, slip stitch and the chain stitch or foundation row. The difference in the crochet stitches is the thickness or the length of the stitch. The number of times the yarn is wrapped around (Yo) the hook will determine the length and thickness.. Your work will have a smoother appearance on the right side of the piece if worked in the round, than the same piece worked back and forth by turning after each row. Turning your work will show both sides and will have a bumpier, thicker appearance. Chain or Foundation chain (ch) Step 1: Make a slip knot hold in your left hand. Hold hook in your right hand. Step 2: Insert hook through loop (slipknot). Step 3: Catch yarn with the hook and bring it back through the loop. 1 chain made. Step 4: Repeat steps 3 as many times as chains needed. (Your slip- knot is never counted.) The 5 Basic crochet Stitches Single crochet - A simple compact stitch. It is also fine and smooth. At the end of the row you will chain 1 and turn (called your turning stitch) to start the next row. Single crochet (sc) A simple compact stitch. This stitch will be found in most patterns and will form a firm smooth surface on both sides. Row 1: Working with your chain called your foundation chain, Skip 2 ch, insert hook under the top of the 3rd ch. Catch the yarn into the hook, yo, yarn through chain loop only. Row 2: Now there will be two loops on the hook. Catch the yarn by the hook, yo, and pull through both loops on your hook. A single stitch is made. Row 3: Continue working sc into the next and all following chains until you come to the end of your chain. Row 4: Turn. Work one chain, (this one loop on the hook will be called the turning chain). Skip the first st at the base of the turning chain. Work 1 sc into the top 2 loops of 2nd st in the previous row. Continue to work 1 sc into the next and each of the stitches to the end of your work. Now remember to make your turning stitch. This stitch is always worked by going into the top 2 loops at the same time. Working just one, either the front or back, will give your work a ridge, or what will be called "ribbing". Attention: One row of single crochet is the same as one row of knit and one of purl (stockinette) or two rows of knit (garter stitch).

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Half-double crochet - produces a little looser texture and an attractive ridge. At the end of the row you will chain 1 and mm to start the next row. Half-double crochet (hdc) Row 1: Make your foundation chain. Skip 2 ch, yo and insert your hook under the top loop of the 3rd ch. Make a yo. Row 2: Draw your yarn through the chain loop only, (there are now 3 loops on your hook) yo. Draw your yarn through all 3 loops. Half crochet made. Continue into the next stitch and all following chs to the end of the row. Row 3: To make the next row and all following rows of hdc, mm work and ch 2. This mining stitch counts as the first dc in your row. Skip first st, which will be at the base of your turning stitch. Work one hdc, inserting your hook under the top two loops of the 2nd st in the previous row. Work 1 hdc into the next and each of the following sts to the end, including the top of the t-ch. (turning chain) Attention: One row of half-double crochet is a little more than a single crochets but not as much as a double. You'll have to measure this one, but it's about 3 rows of knitting. (kl, pl, kl) Double crochet - Twice as high as a single crochet. This is the most versatile stitch and is used most often. At the end of the row you will chain2 and turn for next row. Double crochet (dc) Make your foundation chain. Skip 3 ch, yo, inset the hook in to the loop of the 4th ch. yo. Row 1: Draw the yarn through the ch loop only. (There are now 3 loops on your hook) yo. Row 2: Draw yarn through 2 loops only (2 loops on hook). Yo Row 3: Draw yarn through these 2 loops. One double crochet made. Continue working your dc into the next stitch and all stitches to the end of the row. Row 4: To make another row and all following rows of dc, turn work and ch 3. (This turning stitch counts as first de in the next row). Skip the st at the base of the turning stitch and work 1 de inserting hook under top 2 loops of the 2nd st in the previous row. Work one de into the next and each st to the end of the row, including the turning stitch. Attention: One row of double crochet is the same as 4 rows of stockinette. (kl row, pl row, kl row, and pl row). You can see why they say, "Crocheting goes so much faster". You really can make an "afghan in a day". Something you could never do with hand knitting.) Triple crochet - Three times as high as single crochet and a very loose texture. At the end of the row you will chain 3 and turn for next row. Triple or treble crochet (tr) Row 1: Make your length of foundation chain. Skip 4 ch, yo twice and insert your hook under top loop of 5th ch. Yo.

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Row 2: Draw your yarn through the chain loop only. (There will be 4 loops on your hook.) Yo.

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Row 3: Draw yarn through 2 loops only. 3 loops on the hook. Yo. Row 4: Draw yarn through 2 loops only. Draw your yarn through remaining 2 loops. Triple crochet made. Continue working tr in the next, and all following chains to the end of your row. Row 5: To make the next row of tr, turn your work and ch 4. This turning chain counts as the first tr in the next row. Skip st, which is at the base of your turning hook. Work 1 tr, inserting your hook under the top 2 loops of 2nd st in previous row. Work 1 tr into the next and each st to the end of the row, including into t-ch. Attention: One row of treble crochet is the same as 6 rows of stockinette. (kl row, pl row, kl row, pl row, kl row, and pl row). Double triple crochet - This has an extremely long stitch, because of this, it is usually not used in garments, unless it is linking together one row to another row. Thus, having a weaving appearance to it. At the end of the row you will chain 4 and turn for next row Double triple (dtr) Row 1: Make your foundation chain. Skip 5 ch, yo 3 times and insert your hook under top of the 6th ch, yo, and draw the yarn through ch loop only. You will now have 5 loops on the hook. *Yo. Draw your yarn through 2 loops only. Repeat *to* 3 times more. Row 2: Double tripe made. Continue working across the row working all stitches to the end of the row. Row 3: To make the next row of dtr, mm your work, and chain 5. This tch (turning chain) will become the first st, which will be at the base of the tch. Work 1 dtr inserting your hook under the top 2 loops and the 2nd st in the previous row. Work 1 dtr inserting your hook under the top 2 loops and the 2nd st in the previous row. Work 1 dtr into next and each of the stitches to the end of the row, including the t-ch. Attention: One row of double triple will be the same as 10 rows of stockinette. (kl row, p 1 row, repeat 4 more times) Slipstitch Insert hook through the stitch, hook the yarn, and draw through stitch leaving loop on the hook. Knitting Only two stitches and a cast on Cast on (co) Two needle cast on 1. Make a slip knot and hold it in your left hand. Insert right hand needle through front of loop and pass the yarn you are working with under and over its tip. 2. To form a new stitch brings the yarn through the slipknot.

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3. Leaving a slipknot on the left-hand needle, place this stitch next to the first stitch or slip knot, by slipping it over the point of the fight hand needle. You will now have two stitches on your needle. Pat yourself on the back for that part because if you can do that, you can knit anything you can get your hands on.

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4. Insert needle through the front of the loop of the new stitch and pass the yarn under and over its tip. Bring through to the front and slip this stitch over the left-hand needle. You now have 3. Continue to form a new stitch as in steps 2 and 3, until you have the number of stitches your pattern calls for "cast on". Please note; there are many ways to cast on. Using 1 or 2 or 3 needles. There are No right or the wrong way. Try several different ways until you find "your way". Knit (k) This has a smooth flat surface 1. To knit the cast on row, hold the cast on needle in your left hand and the empty needle in your right. Keeping the yarn behind your work, hold the second needle in your right and insert it into the front going to the back of the left hand needle. 2. With the yarn being held with your right hand, bring the yarn up and over the right hand needle tip. 3. Draw the yarn through the loop and push the new stitch toward the tip of the left-hand needle so you will be able to slip it onto the right hand needle. 4. Repeat 2 and 3 working your way down the left-hand needle. Turn your work. You're now ready to purl. Purl (P) This has a thick bumpy surface. 1. Hold the needle with the knitted stitches in your left hand. Keeping the yarn in front of your work. Insert the right hand needle into the front of the first stitch on the left-hand needle, but this time you'll be pointing the tip from back to from. (Working from behind your left-hand needle.) 2. Bring the yarn from the front of your work around the point of the right hand needle and then pull under it. 3. Draw the loop on the right needle through the stitch and push the new stitch toward the tip of the left needle so you will be able to slip it on to your right hand needle. 4. Repeat this down the left needle as many times as you have stitches. Attention: One row of knit and one row of purl will be referred to as stockinette. The knit side will look smooth while the purl side will look bumpy. Purling or Knitting both sides of your work the same over and over, row after row will be referred to as garter stitch and both sides will look bumpy. Remember to hold your yarn in the back of your work for knitting and in the front of your work for purling. You will become very good at "throwing your yarn". Working one row of knit and one row of purl is called stockinette. Working two or more rows of the same (either knit or purl) is garter stitch. Increasing Knitting

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Knit into the front of the stitch in the usual way but do not remove it from the left-hand needle. Insert right hand needle and knit into the back of the same stitch. Slip the new stitches off the left-hand needle onto the right hand needle. Your one stitch has become

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two. This will make a small bump on the right side of your work. But when used on the edge, it will not be noticeable. OR insert your needle from to back under the horizontal strand of yarn between 2 stitches. Knit this. Remove the new stitch from in-between the rows to your right hand needle. This method is not noticeable, but will leave a small hole in your work. OR if you want no noticeable hole in your work, try this. Knit up to the stitch you want to increase. Knit it from in the front and the back, now move it to your left needle. STOP. Turn your work as if to purl. Slip one stitch on your right needle, but do not purl it. Now put your yarn between the two needles and turn your work back to the knit side. You will not knit the first stitch, which is the slipped st. What you have just done is 'hold' your two stitches together. I have found this to be the least noticeable increase I've seen. Crochet Make 2 single crochet in a single crochet stitch. One increase is made. Wasn't that easy? OR if you're working on double crochet, make two double crochets in the same stitch in the previous row. Whatever stitches your working on, double, half-double, treble, anywhere in the row you want to. When you are, making one increase above another, working each row in the same place to create a vertical line in your work. To slant to the line to right on the right side of your work, work each increase stitch one stitch before your last increase on the previous row. On the left side, work your increase on the second stitch, or one stitch past your increase on the previous row. Decreasing Knitting Either knit or purl two stitches together. One decrease is made. OR, slip one stitch as if to knit, to the right hand needle, and knit the next stitch. Insert your left-hand needle into the front of the slipped st and pass it up and over your knitted stitch. Crochet Insert hook in the stitch, catch yarn, pull through loop, and leave on hook. Repeat in the next stitch and pull up loop. Yarn over hook and pull through, 2 loops at the same time. One decrease is made. If decreases are made scattered throughout the piece, it will be almost invisible. When you are decreasing at the beginning of the row, an angle is created. More than one stitch being deceased on the end of any row and a sharp curve will form. If you're decreasing in the middle of the row, one row on top of another row, a vertical line will appear in your work. If looking for vertical lines that will be slanted to the right or left follow the instructions for the increase directions except you'll be doing a decrease.

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Ribbing Knitting Most often you will work the ribbing in kl, pl, or k2, p2, until you have 2 or 3 inches. This pattern will allow the garment to pull in and fit to the body more than straight knitting. The larger the number for ribbing, 4k, 4p or 5k, 5p the tighter the ribbing becomes. Crochet Single Crochet in back loop only is a very easy ribbing for any crochet sweater. Working your ribbing from side to side, instead of working the ribbing from the bottom up, as in knitting. After sewing side seams, start with the chain on row. Attach your yarn to the chain row. You'll chain down from the bottom front as many chains as you want long. Working up and down (instead back and forth) you will single crochet in the back loop only of the previous row. Turn. Again single crochet in the back loop only of the previous row. Continue ribbing around the bottom of your garment, skipping every 3rd or 4th chain (this creates the elasticity of the ribbing.) When you get back to the garments starting point, you'll be connecting the two pieces by weaving them together using a slipstitch. Remember to skip ever 3rd or 4th ch when going around. OR you can do this off your piece. Single crochet in top loop only again up and down until you have it as long as you're looking for. Weave your ribbing to your garment. Bind or Cast off Knitting Working in your pattern, slip the first stitch. Knit or purl the next stitch. You now have two stitches on your right hand needle. Slip the first stitch up and over the second stitch on the right hand needle. Now you will have one st on your needle. Knit the next stitch on the left-hand needle and slip it again up and over the second stitch. You again have just one stitch on your needle. Continue across the row. Remember to bind off the stitches as it is worked unless asked to do otherwise. Finishing Crochet To finish, simply cut the yarn leaving about a 6 inch tail and insert your hook in the last stitch, catch the yarn with the hook, pull the yarn through to form a knot. Done. You will weave the end of the yarn into the backside of your work. Finishing either knitting or crochet can be done with a crocheted SHRIMP stitch. This is the same as single crochet stitch except it is worked in the opposite direction, working left to right. Keeping the right side of the work facing you. Following the edge around, and going through the top two loops, single crochet your way across the edge. Left to right. Button Holes Knitting

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Working on the right side of your working piece. Working only the number of sts equal to the size of the button. Usually 2 or 3.

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To make buttonholes, work 2 sts, bind off next 2 sts, complete row. On next row, cast on 2 sts over the bound off sts. Crochet Crochet up to the buttonhole. Ch 2, skip 2 sc. On the next row make 2 sc in each ch 2 space. Yarn over (yo) Knitting Knit the first stitch, bring yarn forward under the right hand needle and up over toward the` front and carry it to the back. This will put the yarn in the right position for knitting the next stitch. Knit the next stitch. You have just made one "yarn over". You will now have a hole in your work. This will also increase your number of stitches by one. This will either be an increase or on the next row you will knit the two stitches together which takes the number back to what you had before your yarn over. This is used in most of the decorative stitches. Crochet Crochet the first stitch. Wrap yarn over the hook from the back to the front and crochet as usual. Using a yo will increase the height of your work, or use it to create a pattern with a hole in it, as in lace. Popcorn or Bobble Knitting To do the bobble (or sometimes called the popcorn) stitch, you (k 1, p1, k 1, p1, k 1) all in the same stitch. Then on your purl Row you p 5 tog. (It will be very tight but it can be done.) This forms the popcorn. You can just push the popcorn to the front side of your work and it will stay there. There are many methods of knitting bobbles. Select the stitch that is to become a bobble. K into the front, then the back of the stitch, and do it again, twice more. You now have 6 stitches, made from one, on your right-hand needle. Turn your work and knit these 6 stitches. Turn your work again, lift stitch #2 over stitch #1 and drop it, then do the same with the other 4 stitches. You are now back to the one stitch you started with, and have a bobble. Variations: Instead of knitting in the front, then the back of the stitch, you can knit, then purl into the same stitch. You can do fewer stitches for a smaller bobble - 4 stitches make a nice, small "bump". If you want a giant, turn your work and knit the bubble stitches several times. Crochet This way will make the popcorn puff out on the front side of your work:

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1. To have the popcorn puff out on the front of the work: Work 5 dc in the same stitch, drop loop from hook, insert hook from front to back in the top of the first dc of group.

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2. pull dropped loop through stitch. This way will make the popcorn puff out on the back side (usually the "inside") of your work: 1. To have the popcorn puff out on the back of the work: Work 5 dc in the same stitch, drop loop from hook, insert hook from back to front in the top of the first dc of group 2. pull dropped loop through stitch. Moss Stitch 2 different ways to work this. 1. Cast on an even number of sts. Row 1: (K1, P1) rep to end Row 2: (P1, K1) rep to end Repeat these 2 rows for length desired. Cast off in moss st. 2. Cast on an even number of sts. Rows 1 and 2: (K1, P1) rep to end Rows 3 and 4: (P1, K1) rep to end Repeat these 2 rows for length desired. Cast off in moss st. Crochet Done over odd number of stitches. Foundation Row : Sc in 3rd ch from hook. * ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch *. Repeat from * to * across. Ch 2 (counts as turning chain and first chain 1). Turn. Pattern Row : Skip first sc, * sc in ch 1 space, ch 1, skip next sc *. Repeat from * to * across. End with sc in ch 2 of previous row. Ch 2. Turn. Repeat Pattern row for desired length. Chevron or Ripple Knitting Work on 25 sts. Row 1: K1, sl l, kl, psso, *k8, yo, kl, yo, k8, sl 2 tog, kl, p2sso, rep from* ending with k2 tog. K1 Row 2: Knit to the end of the row, knitting into the back of all yarn-over (yo) in row 1. Crochet One ripple = 14 chs will give you 2 ripples. Chain 40 Row 1: Sc in 3rd ch from hook, sc in each of the next 4 chains. *Inc 3 sc in next ch, sc in each of the next 5 ch, sk2 ch, sc in each of the next 5 chs. Rep from * across, ending with 3 sc in next ch, sc in each of next 6 chs. Ch 1, Turn. Row 2: Working through the back loop only, sk next sc, *sc in each of the next 5 sc, work 3 sc in next sc (increase) made, sc in each of the next 5 sc, sk 2 sc (decrease made). Rep from * across, ending with sc in each of the next 5 sts, 3 sc in the next sc, sc in each of next 6 sc. Ch 1, turn.

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Remember: A single crochet is the same as far as height as 2 rows of knit. Or double crochet is the same as 3 rows of knit.

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This is only an example. You can adjust your stitches to the width of the ripple or wave you'd like by multiplying the number of stitches to the inches by the number of inches you'd like your finished one “V'. Another example Pattern Stitch (worked over 29 sts) Row 1: K2, yo, k4, [k2 tog] twice, k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, [k2 tog] twice, k4, yo, k2. Row 2: P across. Row 3: K across. Rep Rows 1-3 for pat. Shell Stitch Knitting Shell Lace Pattern 11 sts plus 5 Row 1: and all odd rows (ws): Purl Row 2: *K 1, yo, k 2, sl 1, k2 tog, psso, k5, yo, repeat from * across to last 5 sts, kl, yo, k2, s1 1, kl, psso. Row 4: K2, *yo, kl, sl l, k2 tog, psso, k4, yo, k3, repeat from* across, end yo, k l, s1 1, kl, psso. Row 6: K3, * yo, sl 1, k2 tog, psso, k3, yo, k5, repeat from * across, end yo, sl 1, kl, psso. Row 8: Yo, k3, * sl 1, k2 tog, psso, k2, yo, kl, yo, k5, repeat from * across, end sl 1, kl, psso, Row 10: Yo, k3, * sl 1, k2 tog, psso, kl, yo, k3, yo, k4, repeat from * across, end sl 1, kl, psso. Row 12: * Yo, k3, sl 1, k2 tog, psso, yo, k5, repeat from * across, end yo, k3, sl 1, kl, and psso. Repeat rows 1 - 12 for pattern. Crochet Work on 32 sts. Base row: 1 single crochet in to 8th chain from hook. * Ch 3, skip next 2 chs, 1 sc into next ch, 2 ch, ship next 2 chs, 1 dc into next ch, ch 2, skip next 2 ch, 1 sc into next ch, rep from * to last 6 chain, skip next 2 ch, 1 sc into next ch, ch 2, skip next, 2 ch, 1 double into last ch. Turn 9 ch sp. Row 1: ch 2, skip first 2 ch sp. * Work (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc, 1 ch 2 dc) all in the next 3 ch sp (called 1 shell), 1 ch, 1 sc, into next dc in previous row. 1 ch, rep from * to last 3ch sp. 1 shell into this space, skip next 2 ch, 1 sc into next chain. Turn, Row 2: ch 5, * work 1 sc into space between first 2 pairs of doubles in first shell, 3 ch, 1 sc into space between next 2 pairs of double in the same shell. 2 ch, 1 dc into next sc in previous row, 2 ch, rep from * to last shell, 1 sc into space between first 2 pairs of doubles in last shell, 3 ch, 1 sc into space between next 2 pairs of doubles in same shell, 2ch, 1 dc into turning chain. Turn. These two rows form your shell pattern. This can be worked with either a larger hook, or very small for fine or lace work.

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Uneven Seed Stitch Knitting Odd number needed for sample. Row 1: K 1, P 1 across the row. End k 1. Row 2: K 1, P 1 across the row. Remember to purl above the knits and knit above the purls. Crochet uneven berry stitch Even number of stitches Step 1: (WR) Skip the first sc, wind the yarn over the hook, and insert it into the single st. Step 2: Yo and draw it through the stitch, pulling up the yarn loose. Step 3: Yo and insert the hook into the same st and pull yarn loose. 3 loops on hook. Step 4: Yo, insert the hook into the same sts, and draw yarn through loose. Repeat this 2 more times. 5 loops on hook. Step 5: Yo, and draw yarn through the first 4 loops. 2 loops remain. Hook yarn and draw through last two loops to form the berry. Step 6: Work one-slip sts into the next st to hold the berry in place. Step 7: Repeat row 5 & 6 across the chain until 2 sts remain. Step 8: Work one berry in the next st. 1 sc in the last st. Step 9: Turn (RS) Chain 1, skip the first single crochet Work a slip stitch on the top of each berry and 1 single crochet into the slip across the row. Work the last chain in a turning chain. Row 1: Work the same as the berry st except you'll alter the position of the berries. You will make 1 slipstitch into each slipstitch and 1 berry into each single crochet of the previous. Row 2: Berries are worked alternately in the same way through, alter the end rows accordingly to keep pattern correct. Braided Cable Knitting Work over 9 sts Row 1: (RS) K9 Row 2: P9 Row 3: SI next 3 sts onto a cable holder and leave in the back. K 3 then K 3 from the cable holder. (C6B). K3 Row 4: P9 Row 5: K9 Row 6:P9 Row 7: K3, sl the next 3 sts onto the cable holder and hold in front. K 3, knit 3 from the holder (C6F) Row 8: P9. These 8 rows form the pattern. Repeat as needed.

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Crochet Work Cable on 14 chains and 6 rows. Row 1: Turn and chain 2. Work 1 half double in the next 3 stitches. Each row will start this same way. Wind the yarn around the hook and insert it around the base of the next stitch from right to left. Work 1 dc in next stitch. You'll work each raised double in the same way. Work another raised double around the stem of the next stitch. Work 1 raised half double into the next 2 stitches. This stitch will separate the raised stitches. Work 1 raised dc at the stem of the next 2 stitches. Work 1 half double into each stitch to the end of the row. Each cable row will be done in this way. Row 2: Turn chain 1. Skip the next st, and work 1 half double into each st to the end of the row. Work every other row in this way. Row 3: Turn and repeat step 1. Wind yarn around the hook and insert it right to left around each raised double in previous cable row. Complete double as before but keep it loose to avoid pulling the stitch out of shape. Work 1 raised double over the next raised double in the previous cable row. Work 1 half-double into the next (Middle) half double Work one raised double around each of the next 2 raised doubles in the previous cable row. Complete the row as before. Row 4: Turn and repeat row 2. Row 5: Turn and work 4 half double for the beginning of the next row. Skip the next 2 raised doubles in the previous row and middle half double. Yo twice, inset hook from right to left around next raised double. Complete 1 triple in the normal way. Work another raised triple around the next raised double in the previous row. These 2 stitches slant to the right. Hold the hook behind these 2 stitches and work 1 half double into the skipped half double. Still keeping the hook behind the 2 triples. Work 1 triple around the first of the skipped raised doubles. Work another triple in the same way around the 2nd of the skipped raised doubles. This will slat from right to left behind first 2 triples. Complete the row as before. Edging Knitting Note: Sts should only be counted after rows l, 4, 5, or 14. Both knitting and crochet edging can be done alone or by picking up sts. Worked over 13 st Row l: and every alt row (wrong side): K2, p to last 2 sts, k2. Row 2: Sl l, k3, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. Row 4: Sl l, k4, sl l, k2tog, psso, k2, (yo, k2tog) twice, kl. Row 6: Sl l, k3, ssk, k2, (yo, k2tog) twice, kl Row 8: Sl l, k2, ssk, k2, (yo, k2tog) twice, kl. Row 10: Sl l, kl, ssk, k2, (yo, k2tog) twice, kl. Row 12: K1, ssk, k2, yo, kl, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. Row 14: Sl l, (k3, yo) twice, k2tog, yo, k2. Rows 1 to 14 form the pattern.

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Crochet Multiple of 8 sts, plus 1 for foundation ch Row 1: (right side): Skip 2 ch, sc across, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sc across, turn. Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as sc), 1 sc, *ch 3, 2 dc in next, skip 2, 1 sc; rep from *across, turn. Row 4: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc, ch 1), 1 dc in first, *1 sc in 3 loop, (1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc - called V st) in sc; rep from omitting * 2 of 3 ch in last V st, turn. Row 5: Ch 1, 1 sc in 1 ch sp, *(5 dc, ch 5, sl st in 5th ch from hook, 5 dc) in 6 ch loop, 1 sc in next ch loop, rep from across Relief Pattern Knitting Follow your stockinette pattern until you come to your raised pattern or design. On the right side of your work, you'll do a purl stitch. On the wrong or backside of your work you'll do a purl stitch. Crochet Work in single crochet instead of the knitted stockinette until you come to the pattern or design you are adding. Then, to exchange the knitting relief pattern to one doing the single crochet, you'll work the relief knit stitches be going into the front loop only of the single crochet stitch. And you'll go into the back only of your single crochet stitch for the purl stitches. Otherwise follow your pattern as you normally would.

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* * Bonus Pattern * * Sleeveless Sweater Vest

Note: Reading this pattern. Black for both knit and crochet. Red for knit. Blue for crochet.

Sizes: 38 (41, 45, 49)" finished sizes

Materials: 5 (5, 6, 7) - 50 gr balls worsted weight yarn or 640 (640, 768, 896) yds

Needles size 8 and 9 - 16" circular needles. Sweater body is worked back and forth on circular needles. Size H and I crochet hooks.

Gauge: 19 / sts and 28.5 / 4 inches (10 cm), size 9 needles, or needle I hook or size to give this gauge. (Or you may have to go down 1 size.)

Back With smaller needles CO or chain 88 (97, 107, 117) sts. Work 12 rows (1.25") ribbing. K1, P1 across. See below….Crochet ribbing at the end Change to larger needles Note: Stockinette Stitch / sc 11 ½ “ (12 ¼, 13 ¼, 15. ¼ “) or until desired length to underarm is reached. Sc, stop 7 st from end. Ch 1, Turn. Next row stop 7 st from end. Ch 1, Turn. Start armhole BO 7 (7, 8, 9) sts beg next 2 rows. Slip stitch first 3 sc next 2 rows BO 3 sts beg next 2 rows.

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Slip stitch first 2 sc next 2 rows

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BO 2 sts beg next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end every other row 1 (3, 4, 5) times; every 4 rows 1 time, every 8 rows 1 time. 59 (63, 69, 75) sts remain. Work until armhole measures 7 ¼ (7 ½ , 8 ¼ 8. ½ )”. Shape Neck Work across 17 (18, 20, 23) sts, skip / bind off 25 (27, 29, 29) center sts for neck, join second ball of yarn and work remaining sts. Working both sides at the same time, BO / Slip stitch 4 (4, 4, 5) sts at each neck edge one time, BO / Slip stitch 3 (3, 3, 4) sts at neck edge 1 time and 1 st every other row 1 time. 9 (10, 12, 13) sts remain. Work until armhole measures 8 (8 ½, 9, 9 ½)”. Shape Shoulder BO / Slip stitch 4 (5, 6, 6) sts at each shoulder edge once and 5 (5, 6, 7) sts at each shoulder edge once. Front Work same as for Back. When piece 18 ¼ (18 ½, 20. ¼, 22. ½)" from beginning work front neck shaping: work 20 (22, 23, 25) sts to center Skip 19 (19, 23, 25) sts, attach 2nd ball of yarn. BO center sts loosely, work remaining sts. Working both sides at once, BO / Slip stitch 3 at each neck edge once; 2 sts at each neck edge 2 times; dec 1 st each neck edge 4 (5, 4, 5) times. [9 (11, 12, 13) sts remain. Continue until piece measures same as back. Work shoulder shaping same as Back. Sew shoulder seams. Neck Edging With smaller circular needle / hook and RS facing, pick up / sc 104, 104, 104, 120 sts around neck.

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Knit one row, purl one row.

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Sc 1 row. Work 10 rows k1, p1 ribbing around. Bind off with larger needle in ribbing. With larger hook * Sc in back loop only, sc in front loop only * , repeat for 4 rounds. Armhole Edging With smaller circular needle, / hook RS facing, pick up 94 (104, 104, 118 ) sts along armhole edge. Work 8 rows garter st / 4 rows sc / back and forth on circular needle, / hook. Rep for other armhole. Finishing Seam sides. Weave in ends on WS. Crochet ribbing Chain 8 Sc through back loop only all sizes finished Sizes: 38 – single crochet 36 inches (41 - 39 inches, 45 - 43 inches, 49- 47 inches)" size. Sew or weave at bottom of vest

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