CHICKENAND OTHER BIRDS

JOHN TORODE’S

photographs by Jason Lowe

CHICKEN_BLAD 4/3/09 15:28 Page c2

High in flavour and a superb source of healthy protein, chicken isone of the most popular meats on the planet. Yet despite theincredible variety of delicious dishes that can be produced fromthis wonderful bird, many people lack confidence when it comesto preparing and cooking it. Chicken was once regarded as aspecial-occasion treat – today plastic-wrapped breasts and thighsare a feature of every supermarket, but the knowledge that usingthe whole bird will save money and produce a cornucopia ofbetter-tasting dishes seems to have been lost in recent years.

In this book restaurateur and fowl expert John Torode demystifiesthe world of feathered food-stuffs, not only presenting everywhich way to treat the humble chicken, but also how to cook avariety of poultry – whether guinea-fowl or pheasant, pigeon,partridge or turkey – with confidence. To ensure home cooks getthe best value for money, he shows how to make use of the entirebird, detailing the preferred uses for each part and turning thebones and remnants into great stocks and soups.

John is passionate about this important subject and his recipesare straight from the heart: down-to-earth, tasty and easy tomake. From the Jewish family staple Chicken Soup with MatzoBalls to spicy Thai Green Curry, unctuous Confit Duck to theperfect Thanksgiving Roast Turkey with all the trimmings, inJOHN TORODE’S CHICKEN you’ll find classic and contemporarydishes from all around the world, perfectly in tune with today’srequirement for sustainable, seasonal and thrifty eating.

THE AUTHOR Australian by birth, JOHN TORODE came to the UKin the early 1990s and joined the Conran Group, where he washead chef at Mezzo. John now runs Smiths of Smithfield, arestaurant in the heart of London’s only working meat marketand a new restaurant, The Luxe, opens this year inSpitalfields, another historic London market. John is bestknown for his appearances on BBC’s very successfulMasterchef and Celebrity Masterchef programmes. He alsocontributes food articles to many magazines and newspapers.JOHN TORODE’S BEEF was published by Quadrille in 2008.

THE PHOTOGRAPHER JASON LOWE has collected twoGlenfiddich Awards for his food photography and worked withsome of the finest food producers and most inspirationalcookery writers. He has a regular column in the Independenton Saturday with Mark Hix and his work has appeared inmany books and magazines worldwide.

£20.00 Hardback | 978 184400 715 8 | 256pp 248 x 187mm 50,000 words including 130 recipes | 100 colour photographsPublication September 2009

Quadrille Publishing LimitedAlhambra House | 27-31 Charing Cross Road | London WC2H 0LSwww.quadrille.co.uk

CHICKEN_BLAD 4/3/09 15:28 Page c4

High in flavour and a superb source of healthy protein, chicken isone of the most popular meats on the planet. Yet despite theincredible variety of delicious dishes that can be produced fromthis wonderful bird, many people lack confidence when it comesto preparing and cooking it. Chicken was once regarded as aspecial-occasion treat – today plastic-wrapped breasts and thighsare a feature of every supermarket, but the knowledge that usingthe whole bird will save money and produce a cornucopia ofbetter-tasting dishes seems to have been lost in recent years.

In this book restaurateur and fowl expert John Torode demystifiesthe world of feathered food-stuffs, not only presenting everywhich way to treat the humble chicken, but also how to cook avariety of poultry – whether guinea-fowl or pheasant, pigeon,partridge or turkey – with confidence. To ensure home cooks getthe best value for money, he shows how to make use of the entirebird, detailing the preferred uses for each part and turning thebones and remnants into great stocks and soups.

John is passionate about this important subject and his recipesare straight from the heart: down-to-earth, tasty and easy tomake. From the Jewish family staple Chicken Soup with MatzoBalls to spicy Thai Green Curry, unctuous Confit Duck to theperfect Thanksgiving Roast Turkey with all the trimmings, inJOHN TORODE’S CHICKEN you’ll find classic and contemporarydishes from all around the world, perfectly in tune with today’srequirement for sustainable, seasonal and thrifty eating.

THE AUTHOR Australian by birth, JOHN TORODE came to the UKin the early 1990s and joined the Conran Group, where he washead chef at Mezzo. John now runs Smiths of Smithfield, arestaurant in the heart of London’s only working meat marketand a new restaurant, The Luxe, opens this year inSpitalfields, another historic London market. John is bestknown for his appearances on BBC’s very successfulMasterchef and Celebrity Masterchef programmes. He alsocontributes food articles to many magazines and newspapers.JOHN TORODE’S BEEF was published by Quadrille in 2008.

THE PHOTOGRAPHER JASON LOWE has collected twoGlenfiddich Awards for his food photography and worked withsome of the finest food producers and most inspirationalcookery writers. He has a regular column in the Independenton Saturday with Mark Hix and his work has appeared inmany books and magazines worldwide.

£20.00 Hardback | 978 184400 715 8 | 256pp 248 x 187mm 50,000 words including 130 recipes | 100 colour photographsPublication September 2009

Quadrille Publishing LimitedAlhambra House | 27-31 Charing Cross Road | London WC2H 0LSwww.quadrille.co.uk

CHICKEN_BLAD 4/3/09 15:28 Page c4

6 Introduction20 Soups & Stocks 40 Snacks & Starters 62 Legs & Breasts86 Salads110 Curries 126 Barbecue 148 Roasts 182 One Pot Wonders196 Tarts, Pies & Pastries212 Pasta, Noodles & Grains 234 Confit, Terrines, Pâtés & Pastrami 250 Poultry & Game Dealers252 Index256 Acknowledgements

CHICKEN_BLAD 4/3/09 15:28 Page 1

CHIPS & MAYOFry the chips in three batches so the oil reheatsquickly and browns the chips nicely.

6 large potatoes, peeled and cut into 3cm chips5 litres corn or vegetable oilsalt 120ml mayonnaise (page 32)4 lemon wedges 4 handfuls of watercress

Soak the chips in cold water for 5 minutes, thenchange the water and leave to soak for another 5minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oil to 140°C in adeep-fat fryer. Drain the chips and pat them drywith paper or a towel.

Fry each batch of chips for 8-10 minutes, thendrain well and leave on a tray to cool. Afterwards,heat the oil to 190°C and, still working in batches,fry the chips for 2 minutes. Give them a little shake,then cook for another 4-5 minutes until well-coloured. Drain the chips for a few minutes beforesprinkling them with salt and serving with thechicken, mayo, lemon and watercress. Serves 4.

PANZANELLAThis salad is best after a bit of rough and tumble(not you, the salad). It needs to be workedtogether so all the flavours blend.

100ml red or white wine vinegara big bowl of leftover bread, cut into

thumb-sized chunks6 ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped 1 red onion, chopped a big handful of chopped flat-leaf parsley chopped olives and peppers (optional) 50g pine nuts, toastedabout 3 tbsp walnut vinaigrette (page 32)

Mix the vinegar and 100ml water in a jug, pourover the bread and stir so the bread soaks up theflavour. Squeeze the bread to get rid of the excessliquid and set aside.

Put the tomatoes in a large bowl, giving half ofthem a squeeze. Add the onion and parsley, stir,then add the bread and mix well. Add the rest ofthe ingredients and stir again. Leave for a good 20minutes while you cook the chicken. Serves 6.

POMEGRANATE, SPINACH & OLIVE SALAD The crisp, bittersweet skin of the chicken, thecrunchy pomegranates and olives, and iron-richspinach combine beautifully in this simple salad.

1 whole pomegranate 24 large green olives, sliced juice of 1 lemon 2 tbsp olive oil 2 handfuls spinach leaves salt and pepper

Scoop the seeds from the pomegranate and mixthem in a bowl with the sliced olives, lemon juiceand olive oil and leave them to sit for 20 minuteswhile you cook the chicken. Shred the spinachand season it with salt and pepper.

To serve, chop or slice the cooked chicken, put iton serving plates and scatter the salad ingredientsover the top. Serves 4.

GINGER CHICKPEAS & HARISSA

50 ml vegetable oil2 tsp garam marsala 120g fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped1 x 400g tin chickpeas, drained1 x 400g tin chopped tomatoessalt and pepper1 large handful coriander leaves, coarsely

chopped 4 heaped tbsp harissa (page 33)lemon wedges or halves, to serve

Heat the oil in a saucepan until smoking. Add thegaram marsala and sizzle for 30 seconds, thenadd the ginger and chilli and stir well. Add thechickpeas, stir again to coat them in the spices,then add the tomatoes, a good pinch of salt and agood grind of pepper. Bring to the boil, thenremove from the heat and stir in the coriander.

Serve with the chicken, lemon and a dollop ofharissa on the side. Serves 4. 57Legs & Breasts

GRILLED CHICKEN WITH…

CHICKEN_BLAD 4/3/09 15:28 Page 2

CHIPS & MAYOFry the chips in three batches so the oil reheatsquickly and browns the chips nicely.

6 large potatoes, peeled and cut into 3cm chips5 litres corn or vegetable oilsalt 120ml mayonnaise (page 32)4 lemon wedges 4 handfuls of watercress

Soak the chips in cold water for 5 minutes, thenchange the water and leave to soak for another 5minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oil to 140°C in adeep-fat fryer. Drain the chips and pat them drywith paper or a towel.

Fry each batch of chips for 8-10 minutes, thendrain well and leave on a tray to cool. Afterwards,heat the oil to 190°C and, still working in batches,fry the chips for 2 minutes. Give them a little shake,then cook for another 4-5 minutes until well-coloured. Drain the chips for a few minutes beforesprinkling them with salt and serving with thechicken, mayo, lemon and watercress. Serves 4.

PANZANELLAThis salad is best after a bit of rough and tumble(not you, the salad). It needs to be workedtogether so all the flavours blend.

100ml red or white wine vinegara big bowl of leftover bread, cut into

thumb-sized chunks6 ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped 1 red onion, chopped a big handful of chopped flat-leaf parsley chopped olives and peppers (optional) 50g pine nuts, toastedabout 3 tbsp walnut vinaigrette (page 32)

Mix the vinegar and 100ml water in a jug, pourover the bread and stir so the bread soaks up theflavour. Squeeze the bread to get rid of the excessliquid and set aside.

Put the tomatoes in a large bowl, giving half ofthem a squeeze. Add the onion and parsley, stir,then add the bread and mix well. Add the rest ofthe ingredients and stir again. Leave for a good 20minutes while you cook the chicken. Serves 6.

POMEGRANATE, SPINACH & OLIVE SALAD The crisp, bittersweet skin of the chicken, thecrunchy pomegranates and olives, and iron-richspinach combine beautifully in this simple salad.

1 whole pomegranate 24 large green olives, sliced juice of 1 lemon 2 tbsp olive oil 2 handfuls spinach leaves salt and pepper

Scoop the seeds from the pomegranate and mixthem in a bowl with the sliced olives, lemon juiceand olive oil and leave them to sit for 20 minuteswhile you cook the chicken. Shred the spinachand season it with salt and pepper.

To serve, chop or slice the cooked chicken, put iton serving plates and scatter the salad ingredientsover the top. Serves 4.

GINGER CHICKPEAS & HARISSA

50 ml vegetable oil2 tsp garam marsala 120g fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped1 x 400g tin chickpeas, drained1 x 400g tin chopped tomatoessalt and pepper1 large handful coriander leaves, coarsely

chopped 4 heaped tbsp harissa (page 33)lemon wedges or halves, to serve

Heat the oil in a saucepan until smoking. Add thegaram marsala and sizzle for 30 seconds, thenadd the ginger and chilli and stir well. Add thechickpeas, stir again to coat them in the spices,then add the tomatoes, a good pinch of salt and agood grind of pepper. Bring to the boil, thenremove from the heat and stir in the coriander.

Serve with the chicken, lemon and a dollop ofharissa on the side. Serves 4. 57Legs & Breasts

GRILLED CHICKEN WITH…

CHICKEN_BLAD 4/3/09 15:28 Page 2

4 salads

You only need a little roasted rice to add crunch to thisrecipe, but it is worth roasting a jar full and keeping itto pop into any salad. I prefer to cut the papaya instrips rather than pound it, as is traditional in Thailand.

The day before serving, rub the duck all over with the fish sauceand leave, skin side down, in this marinade for 12 hours or so.

Next day, heat the oven to 220°C/gas 7. To make the roasted rice,put the rice in a bowl, cover with water and leave for 5 minutesbefore draining. Scatter the rice over a baking sheet and roast forabout 30 minutes, until the grains turn off-white, begin to popand develop a nutty fragrance. Transfer to a bowl to cool, thengrind the toasted rice to a powder and store in a jar.

To cook the duck, shake off the excess fish sauce and place thelegs in an ovenproof dish with the galangal, lemongrass andthree of the lime leaves. Pour the coconut milk over the top andcook in the oven for about 2 hours. Turn the oven down to180°C/gas 4 and continue baking for another hour, until the duckmeat falls away from the bone easily.

Remove the duck from the oven. Lift off the skin and lay it on arack in a roasting pan. Return it to the oven for about 30 minutes,until the skin is dry and crisp. Crumble and reserve.

In a large bowl, combine the papaya, beans, cabbage, chillies,basil, a handful of roasted rice and the remaining lime leaves,which should be cut into thin strips. Shred the duck meat andadd it to the bowl.

At the last minute, combine all the dressing ingredients, pourover the salad and toss to coat. Serve immediately, before thevegetables start to go limp.

SPICED DUCK SALAD

SERVES

4 duck legs3 tbsp fish sauce100g Thai fragrant rice 10cm galangal, bashed3 lemongrass stalks, bashed11 lime leaves100ml coconut milk2 green papaya, or 4 Thai

green mangoes, peeled andcut into julienne

25g snake beans or stringbeans, finely chopped

25g Chinese cabbage, thinlysliced

4 long red (serrano) chillies,deseeded and finely chopped

1 bunch Thai basil

DRESSING1 red Thai chilli1 green Thai chilli 2 tbsp fish sauce2 tbsp lime juice1 tbsp palm sugar1 tbsp caster sugar1 tbsp tamarind water

TIP To make tamarindwater, I tend to massage1 tablespoon of freshtamarind paste in 1 tablespoon of hotwater until softened,then drain off theflavoured liquid.

CHICKEN_BLAD 4/3/09 15:28 Page 4

4 salads

You only need a little roasted rice to add crunch to thisrecipe, but it is worth roasting a jar full and keeping itto pop into any salad. I prefer to cut the papaya instrips rather than pound it, as is traditional in Thailand.

The day before serving, rub the duck all over with the fish sauceand leave, skin side down, in this marinade for 12 hours or so.

Next day, heat the oven to 220°C/gas 7. To make the roasted rice,put the rice in a bowl, cover with water and leave for 5 minutesbefore draining. Scatter the rice over a baking sheet and roast forabout 30 minutes, until the grains turn off-white, begin to popand develop a nutty fragrance. Transfer to a bowl to cool, thengrind the toasted rice to a powder and store in a jar.

To cook the duck, shake off the excess fish sauce and place thelegs in an ovenproof dish with the galangal, lemongrass andthree of the lime leaves. Pour the coconut milk over the top andcook in the oven for about 2 hours. Turn the oven down to180°C/gas 4 and continue baking for another hour, until the duckmeat falls away from the bone easily.

Remove the duck from the oven. Lift off the skin and lay it on arack in a roasting pan. Return it to the oven for about 30 minutes,until the skin is dry and crisp. Crumble and reserve.

In a large bowl, combine the papaya, beans, cabbage, chillies,basil, a handful of roasted rice and the remaining lime leaves,which should be cut into thin strips. Shred the duck meat andadd it to the bowl.

At the last minute, combine all the dressing ingredients, pourover the salad and toss to coat. Serve immediately, before thevegetables start to go limp.

SPICED DUCK SALAD

SERVES

4 duck legs3 tbsp fish sauce100g Thai fragrant rice 10cm galangal, bashed3 lemongrass stalks, bashed11 lime leaves100ml coconut milk2 green papaya, or 4 Thai

green mangoes, peeled andcut into julienne

25g snake beans or stringbeans, finely chopped

25g Chinese cabbage, thinlysliced

4 long red (serrano) chillies,deseeded and finely chopped

1 bunch Thai basil

DRESSING1 red Thai chilli1 green Thai chilli 2 tbsp fish sauce2 tbsp lime juice1 tbsp palm sugar1 tbsp caster sugar1 tbsp tamarind water

TIP To make tamarindwater, I tend to massage1 tablespoon of freshtamarind paste in 1 tablespoon of hotwater until softened,then drain off theflavoured liquid.

CHICKEN_BLAD 4/3/09 15:28 Page 4

121Curries

The use of Shaoxing wine in this Thai recipe shows theChinese influence creeping into the cuisine.

First make the curry paste. Soak the dried shrimps in water forabout 30 minutes, then drain. Meanwhile, wrap the shrimp pastein foil and toast it on a hot, dry pan until fragrant. Whiz thegarlic and shallots in a blender (or pound in a mortar). Add thegalangal, chillies and salt, followed by the shrimp paste, draineddried shrimps and turmeric. Blend to give a paste. The currypaste will keep in a glass jar in the fridge for 2 weeks, but I like todivide it into 2 tablespoon portions and store them in smallplastic bags in the freezer, where they will keep up to 6 months.

To make the curry, heat the oil in a wok or large saucepan andstir-fry 2 tablespoons of the curry paste for a few minutes, until itbecomes fragrant. Add the fish sauce and continue frying foranother minute. Add the guinea fowl pieces and cook with thepaste for 5 minutes, so they get a little colour. Pour in wine thenchicken stock, bring to a simmer and cook for 40 minutes.

Add the remaining ingredients to the pan and simmer for anotherminute, then turn off the heat. Cover and leave the curry to restfor 5 minutes to allow the flavours to infuse before serving.

JUNGLE CURRY OFGUINEA FOWL

SERVES

150ml vegetable oil2 tbsp yellow curry paste (see

below) 150ml fish sauce1 guinea fowl, cut into 8 pieces 2 litres chicken stock100ml Shaoxing wine 200g green beans, cut into

7.5cm pieces1 handful mangetout200g bamboo shoots, cut into

pieces1 bunch Thai basil, leaves

picked100g root ginger, scraped and

cut into strips30 kaffir lime leaves, torn300g bok choy or choy sum,

stalks divided 1 small bunch mint

YELLOW CURRY PASTE30g dried shrimps10g shrimp paste3 garlic cloves, chopped6 red shallots, chopped50g galangal, chopped19 long yellow chillies,

deseeded and chopped2 tsp salt20g fresh turmeric

CHICKEN_BLAD 4/3/09 15:28 Page 6

121Curries

The use of Shaoxing wine in this Thai recipe shows theChinese influence creeping into the cuisine.

First make the curry paste. Soak the dried shrimps in water forabout 30 minutes, then drain. Meanwhile, wrap the shrimp pastein foil and toast it on a hot, dry pan until fragrant. Whiz thegarlic and shallots in a blender (or pound in a mortar). Add thegalangal, chillies and salt, followed by the shrimp paste, draineddried shrimps and turmeric. Blend to give a paste. The currypaste will keep in a glass jar in the fridge for 2 weeks, but I like todivide it into 2 tablespoon portions and store them in smallplastic bags in the freezer, where they will keep up to 6 months.

To make the curry, heat the oil in a wok or large saucepan andstir-fry 2 tablespoons of the curry paste for a few minutes, until itbecomes fragrant. Add the fish sauce and continue frying foranother minute. Add the guinea fowl pieces and cook with thepaste for 5 minutes, so they get a little colour. Pour in wine thenchicken stock, bring to a simmer and cook for 40 minutes.

Add the remaining ingredients to the pan and simmer for anotherminute, then turn off the heat. Cover and leave the curry to restfor 5 minutes to allow the flavours to infuse before serving.

JUNGLE CURRY OFGUINEA FOWL

SERVES

150ml vegetable oil2 tbsp yellow curry paste (see

below) 150ml fish sauce1 guinea fowl, cut into 8 pieces 2 litres chicken stock100ml Shaoxing wine 200g green beans, cut into

7.5cm pieces1 handful mangetout200g bamboo shoots, cut into

pieces1 bunch Thai basil, leaves

picked100g root ginger, scraped and

cut into strips30 kaffir lime leaves, torn300g bok choy or choy sum,

stalks divided 1 small bunch mint

YELLOW CURRY PASTE30g dried shrimps10g shrimp paste3 garlic cloves, chopped6 red shallots, chopped50g galangal, chopped19 long yellow chillies,

deseeded and chopped2 tsp salt20g fresh turmeric

CHICKEN_BLAD 4/3/09 15:28 Page 6

CHICKEN_BLAD 4/3/09 15:28 Page 8

CHICKENAND OTHER BIRDS

JOHN TORODE’S

photographs by Jason Lowe

CHICKEN_BLAD 4/3/09 15:28 Page c2