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MELBOURNE ISSUE 59 FREEPLEASE

TAKE ME HOME

GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU

9 - 11 MARCH 20169:00AM TO 4:00PM DAILY

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CELEBRATE THE BEST OF MELBOURNE’S COFFEE, FOOD,

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EATING OUT

TIVOLI ROAD BAKERYLisa Holmen

ON IT BURGERSBurgers of Melbourne

THE SPOTThe Hungry Babushka

BRAEMegan Osborne

REGULARSFEATURE COOKING

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TORTA DI PERA E CIOCCOLATOPEAR AND CHOCOLATE CAKEEmiko Davies 32

CONTRIBUTORS

NEWLY OPENED

AROUND THE TRAPS

THINGS WE LOVE

REVIEWS

OUT AND ABOUT

THE DIARY

GRAM DIRECTORY

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CONTENTS

TALKING IN TONGUES

A GUIDE TO UNDERSTANDING

‘WINESPEAK’

Charley May

CHEF JACQUES LA MERDE

A.K.A. CHRISTINE FLYNN

Lauren Bruce

INTERVIEW

Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.

ON THE COVER: LATTE

A latte is a coffee drink made with espresso and steamed milk. The term as used in English is a shortened form of the Italian caffè latte,

caffelatte or caffellatte, which means “milk coffee”. The word is also sometimes spelled latté or lattè in English with different kinds of

accent marks, which can be a hyperforeignism or a deliberate attempt to indicate that the word is not pronounced according to the

rules of English orthography.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Jess Hourigan

DEPUTY EDITOR

Lauren Bruce

DEPUTY EDITOR

Megan Osborne

COVER DESIGN

ELEVATOR CREATIVE hello@elevatorcreative.com.au www.elevatorcreative.com.au

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EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editor@grammagazine.com.au

DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES: distribution@grammagazine.com.au

GENERAL ENQUIRIES: info@grammagazine.com.au

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CONTRIBUTORS

DEAN SCHMIDEGA professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is known as one of Melbourne’s coffee addicts and foodies, regularly seeking out new and interesting cafes and bars. He shares these and the things he prepares at home across social media. His posts celebrate the produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together.

FACEBOOK: imagesdsINSTAGRAM: dsimagesTWITTER: imagesDSE: deany76@gmail.com

LAUREN BRUCELauren started her writing career as a communications adviser before she realised she couldn’t ignore her passion for food and the arts any longer. She gave up the world of state politics to concentrate on freelance writing and styling. She has since contributed to Spook, Paper Sea and Junkee and is a regular contributor to GRAM Magazine.

laurendarcybruce.wordpress.comINSTAGRAM: brucemoosemedia

ON THE BANDWAGON

Trev has earnt a reputation in the Australian craft

beer industry as a passionate advocate for local

breweries and educating the masses about the

beer they are drinking. He is the founder and Chair

of Bendigo Beer which runs many events including

the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop festival.

TWITTER: Onthe_bandwagon

INSTAGRAM: Onthe_bandwagon

LISA HOLMENAfter spending most of my early years in Adelaide, I moved to Melbourne in my early 20s and a few years later moved to the big smoke in London. I started my blog, lisaeatsworld.com, to share my two big passions in life – food and travel.My aim is to “eat the world” one inch at a time and explore as many different cuisines and cultures as possible. My current country count is 35 and hope to reach 50 by the end of 2015.

lisaeatsworld.comTWITTER: lisa_eatsworldINSTAGRAM: lisaeatworldFACEBOOK: lisaeatstheworld

MEGAN OSBORNEMegan Osborne is a freelance writer, but more importantly, a foodie. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine—she’s not fussy.

meganosborne.com.auTWITTER: foodiewritings INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings

BURGERS OF MELBOURNE

Burgers of Melbourne is run by one Melbourne

guy that just loves burgers.

I eat, picture and review the burgers of

Melbourne.

burgersofmelbourne.com.au

INSTAGRAM: burgersofmelbourne

CHARLEY MAY

Charley May is a biologist by training and a wine

communicator by profession. When she’s not at

the tasting bench or crafting silky words, you’ll

find her on a river somewhere pursuing her other

great love... Fly-fishing.

TWITTER: @charleymay1

LA DONNA DEL VINO

La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this

Melbournian with a nose attuned to all things

vinous. A self-confessed Neb Head (someone who

really digs the Nebbiolo grape), she will happily try

anything once but has a penchant for full-bodied

whites, food-friendly reds and a good digestive. In

her spare time you’ll find her gardening, cooking,

dancing, drinking good vino or working on her

country property with her husband Wootten.

ladonnadelvino.com

TWITTER: ladonnadelvino

FACEBOOK: la-donna-del-vino

THE HUNGRY BABUSKHA

I bake like a mofo, but I can’t possibly eat it all, so

I’m a part-time treat-pusher.

thehungrybabushka.com

INSTAGRAM: thehungrybabushka

FACEBOOK: TheHungryBabushka

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NOW OPEN

STKBB FOOD TRUCKOPENED: January 2016Grosvenor Hotel’s premium take-away option, St Kilda Burger Bar (STKBB) is now on wheels, extending its commitment to sourcing and preparing patties made from 100 per cent certified Victorian grass fed Angus beef state-wide.

Convenience and quality have always been a focus for the STKBB, the first of its kind to be situated in a Melbourne pub drive-through. The truck will now make its range of burgers even more accessible via regular appearances at festivals and activations.

Already set to appear at a range of events around Victoria, including St Jerome’s Laneway Festival and Near the Little Sea beachside cinema, STKBB on wheels is the newest addition to Melbourne’s food truck craze.

burger.melbourne/food-truck

facebook.com/STKBB

instagram.com/stkburgerbar

CUCINA & COOPENED: January 2016There’s good news for bayside residents who have a penchant for bona fide Italian food. Brighton has a brand-new local that’s showcasing what Italians do best – pizza e vino. Cucina & Co is a 65-seat Italian restaurant summoned by industry stalwart Riccardo Bianchini and backed by his partners Peter Aloi of Cafe Duomo and Peter Kisvarda.

Cucina & Co was designed by fellow Italian, Dominic Ridolfi of Ridolfi Architecture, who sought out a minimalist aesthetic with an informal and chic look. Stone, steel and leather come together to create a space that’s inviting and modern and a move away from the tired old Italian eatery.

With a focus on authentic food and cheeky, charming service dished out with classic Italian flair, diners can pick from a seasonal a la carte menu, which includes wood-fired pizzas, homemade gnocchi, and daily specials.

325 NEW STREET, BRIGHTONfacebook.com/Cucina-Co

GEORGE JONES EATERYOPENED: February 4, 2016Realising that there was a gap in the Pascoe Vale market for an all day eatery serving modern plates and excellent coffee, Paul Vernuccio decided to open his own. With two cafés already under his belt (Cheeky Monkey and Rubber Duck), Vernuccio created George Jones Eatery, a 140-seater venue that opened on February 4th 2016.

Paying tribute to the first business owner in the area (the original Mr Jones opened a general store 74 years ago), George Jones espouses the same three ethos as Vernuccio’s other two establishments: simplicity, honesty and consistency. More importantly, Vernuccio wanted to create a retreat for nearby residents to proudly claim as their local haunt.

Assisting Vernuccio is General Manager Pim Muter and Consulting Chef Jason Shiong (ex-Longrain and Di Bella Coffee Roasting Warehouse)

15C PASCOE STREET, PASCOE VALEfacebook.com/GeorgejonesEatery

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AROUND THE TRAPS

MICE 2016 EXPANDS TO INCLUDE COFFEE WEEK

The Melbourne International Coffee Expo (MICE) has brought industry professionals from all over Australia to our coffee famous city for the past four years.

The biggest names representing some of the world’s biggest brands fly to Melbourne for the week, to network, and to engage with their clients.

Winners of the Australian Specialty Coffee Association (ASCA) regional championships fly to the city to compete in the national competitions, as do ASCA judges, sponsors and supporters. MICE is an opportunity for knowledge leaders to come together.

On top of that, MICE’s public day is creating a bigger buzz with the general community each year.

With so much talent in one place, it’s only natural that events have begun springing up around the time of the show each year. With this in mind, MICE is introducing Melbourne Coffee Week, and encouraging cafés, roasters and everyone else in the industry to get involved.

From 10 – 19 March, the coffee community is encouraged to put on a party, introduce a special offer, invite coffee lovers to taste their brews, expand their knowledge, launch a new product, or celebrate coffee in whichever way they see fit.

The Melbourne Coffee Week website will provide a space to advertise these events and one central location for consumers to find out what’s happening.

Registration will include media support through, MICE’s databases, MICE’s Media Partners and Melbourne Coffee Week’s social media channels.

There are currently a number of exciting events registered, which we would love to see you at, kicking off with

Australian Pura Latte Art Championship on 4 – 5 March, Queensbridge Square – to find out what else’s happening in March or to register an event click go to:

MELBOURNECOFFEEWEEK.COM.AU

RedSteelite “Craft”

NEW

Exclusive to Cedar223 - 231 Brunswick Rd Brunswick VIC 3056

T: 03 9387 4455 F: 03 9387 4140cedarsales@cedarhospitality.com

cedarhospitality.com Basement141 Flinders LaneMelbourne 3000+61 3 9650 3155

20 Duckboard PlaceMelbourne 3000+61 3 9650 3155

Adam D’ SylvaChef/Owner

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WORDS LISA HOLMEN PHOTOGRAPHY LISA HOLMEN, BEC HUDSON AND ALBERT COMPER

TIVOLI ROAD BAKERY3 Tivoli Road, South Yarra

There’s a delicious aroma on Tivoli Road, which has hordes of hungry locals

and tourists salivating at the slightest whiff. Follow your nose towards the

lingering smell of freshly baked breads and pastries and you’ll soon find one

of South Yarra’s most popular haunts, the Tivoli Road Bakery, just a stone’s

throw from Toorak Road.

Hailing from Penzance in West Cornwall, Head Baker, Michael James owns

the bakery with his wife Pippa. Formerly known as MoVida Bakery, where

James was Head Baker, the establishment was renamed Tivoli Road Bakery

after the duo took the reigns in 2013. Their long-term labour of love has

since gone from strength to strength due to their commitment to baking

quality products with attention and care.

Open daily for breakfast and lunch, the artisan bakery café offers a

sumptuous range of treats to satisfy the fussiest of taste buds. From freshly

baked loaves of sourdough, to buttery croissants and salted caramel filled

doughnuts, rest assured, you’ll be more than looked after here.

With a sleek contemporary fit out, the bakery has a semi-Scandinavian feel

with its use of blonde timber and minimalist décor. Tables are limited and fill

quickly at peak times. Sit in the heart of the action at the communal table

overlooking the kitchen and watch pastries baked fresh before your eyes,

or pull up a bar seat by the window and people watch. If you’re lucky (or

early), nab one of the prized outdoor tables on tree-lined Tivoli Road and

enjoy a treat with your pooch. It’s welcoming and friendly, and refreshingly

unpretentious.

The bakery has searched far and wide to use premium local produce,

including St David Dairy, Wholegrain Milling organic flour and free-range

eggs from the Grampians. On the all day menu there’s a granola teamed

with fresh fruit and organic yoghurt, a nicely prepared olive toast with

heirloom tomatoes, ricotta and white balsamic and my personal favourite

– the lovage cured salmon on rye, remoulade and mustard leaf. Freshly cut

sandwiches (available from 11am) are chock full of delicious gourmet fillings,

and sell out like hotcakes. For something a little “meatier” you can’t go past

a good old-fashioned sausage roll or a gourmet pie washed down with one

of their iced lattes or a Small Batch espresso.

Bread is a definite focus here and is a craft, which James likens to an art.

Ogle at the impressive array of expertly crafted bread stacked neatly on the

wooden shelves. Each loaf is baked fresh each morning and is sold out on

most days. There’s spelt, soy, linseed, multigrain and rye, just to name a few.

All breads are sourdough based, made using locally milled, organic flour

and baked on a stone hearth. The baking team live by the philosophy: “Great

bread that’s good for you should be made using only flour, water, salt and

wild yeast.” No additives, improvers or stabilisers here.

According to James, baking bread is a long process, which needs to be

timed to perfection. “We only use flour, water and salt and we mill a small

percentage of our flour to keep it fresh and full of nutrients and oils. We do

not use added gluten or ascorbic acid. We like to keep it natural and simple

with our organic flour,” he says.

Come here early to enjoy the best range of mouth watering cakes and

pastries from the front cabinet, which will have sweet-tooths quivering

with joy at a single glance. Doughnuts are crispy and golden, oozing with

decadent fillings like salted caramel and lemon curd, while Danish pastries

are laden with fresh fruit including an incredibly decadent strawberry and

pistachio number. And that’s just the start of it.

After winning a number of awards, their hot cross buns have developed a

cult status in Melbourne. They have a glistening golden, sticky glaze and

are studded with plenty of fruit, sultanas and a subtle touch of spice and

nutmeg. The texture is lovely and moist and is delicious eating as is or

toasted and smothered in butter. But be prepared to come early, with all

good things in Melbourne come crowds. In their first day of sale this year

they sold out within the hour.

There’s so much to love about Tivoli Road Bakery. It makes me want to move

to South Yarra just to be a local, but my hips would never forgive me!

TIVOLI ROAD BAKERY3 Tivoli Road, South Yarra

(03) 9041 4345

tivoliroad.com.au

facebook.com/Tivoli-Road-Bakery | instagram.com/tivoliroadbakery

EATING OUT SOUTH YARRA

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WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BURGERS OF MELBOURNE

ON IT BURGERS

On It Burgers has been rated one of Melbourne’s burger venues by a many

burger connoisseur. Being in the far eastern suburb of Ferntree Gully

however, has made it difficult for many Melburnians to taste what has made

On It so popular. In January 2016, On It Burgers expanded, and opened its

second franchise in the inner suburb of Abbotsford.

I’ve visited On It Burgers a number of times over the past few years. I’ve

sampled four of their most popular burgers, tasted a range of exciting

milkshakes, fell in love with their onion rings and have to agree with those

who have eaten there before me, that On It Burgers is definitely up there as

one of Melbourne’s best burger joints.

My On It experience began with the popular, Double Hero: two grass fed

beef patties, two slices of American cheese, lettuce, red onion, pickle with

Hero sauce, topped with onion rings.

There wasn’t a whole lot you could fault with this burger - the patties were

cooked medium, the house sauce was on point and the cheese was melted

to perfection. The patty size is 120 grams, so adding a second patty is highly

recommended.

Next off the bat, I gave their famous Bacon Jammy a shot. This is the burger

which made On It famous out in the East, so I felt it was only fitting to give

this one a go.

Consisting of two grass fed beef, two slices of American cheese, pickles,

BACON JAM and smoky On It sauce, this burger was utter brilliance. The

awesomeness of the bacon jam hits you at the very first bite. Cooked to

perfection, this special addition is like nothing I have ever tasted before.

Sweet, yet smokey – it is a flavour that makes you crave more after every

bite.

349-351 Victoria Street, Abbotsford | 930 Burwood Highway, Ferntree Gully

ON IT BURGERS DOUBLE HERO

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On my third visit I sampled the chicken option, Spicy Chick, consisting of

fried chicken, Sriracha mayo, slaw and lettuce on a sexy black a bun. The

fried chicken was juicy and crunchy and the slaw and crisp lettuce made the

perfect accompaniments.

 

Finishing up my burger adventure at On It, I ordered The Blackbeard. A soft

shell crab burgers with Sriracha, slaw, coriander and Hero sauce also on a

black bun.

Ironically, the Blackbeard is a burger I would usually avoid when hitting up a

burger restaurant. Not that there is anything wrong with soft shell crab, only

because I tend to gravitate towards the beef options, with chicken the next

on my hit list. Having said that, I really enjoyed this burger. While coriander

may not be everyone’s cup of tea, mixed with the Sriracha it turned out to

be a great inclusion and really enhanced all the other flavours including the

crab itself.

As a side note, the onion rings are phenomenal and would have to be the

best some of the best I have ever had! They are the perfect accompaniment

with these burgers and are a must order when visiting On It. And the dipping

sauce they come with… magic!

ON IT BURGERS349-351 Victoria Street, Abbotsford

930 Burwood Highway, Ferntree Gully

onitburgers.com.au

facebook.com/onitburgers

instagram.com/onitburgers

ON IT BURGERS SPICY CHICK

ON IT BURGERS BACON JAMMY ON IT BURGERS ONION RINGS

14SHORT STRAW AT THE WELL RED SPICE ROAD

THE BOAT BUILDERS YARD & RIVERLANDBILLY’S KITCHEN

“I highly recommend Chef’s Hat for their

service, quality and support. The team are

knowledgeable and helpful, and they have a

wide range quality products to choose from.

Their delivery service makes getting your

supplies that much easier - I love that they

deliver right to my kitchen!”

John McLeay - Executive Chef

RED SPICE ROAD QV & BURMA LANE

“Great location, competitive prices, attentive and

well informed staff and a sales rep that thrives to

get your stock delivered in no time. It is always a

great excuse to duck out of the kitchen and spend

some time looking for some innovative products. “

Egor Rodichkin - Executive Chef

THE BOAT BUILDERS YARD &

RIVERLAND BAR & CAFE

“We have been a regular customers of Chef’s Hat

(South Melbourne) for several years due to their

proximity to our restaurant located in Southbank.

With our new restaurant, in the Eastern suburbs,

we continue to work with Chef’s Hat due to the

great service and range provided by Rusty & the

Chef’s Hat team. We have recently completed an

expansive fit out for a 250 seat restaurant at Knox

City Shopping centre and find Chef’s Hat an ideal

partner for virtually all our kitchen and shop fit-

out requirements. Always very prompt in ensuring

orders are placed and dispatched for quick

delivery, they have an extensive range and always

offer competitive pricing. I highly recommend

choosing Chef’s Hat as your restaurant supplier.”

Steve Bozinov - Owner

BILLY’S KITCHEN KNOX OZONE

We’ve setup a few cafes from scratch in the last

few years. Every cafe site poses new challenges

and obstacles in terms of equipment, floor plan,

work flow, maximizing seating. You’d think after

the fourth or fifth cafe it would eventually get

easier. We find things which work for us, and we

carry them on to the next business, and things

which don’t we look for alternatives. Chef’s Hat

has been a staple since the first place we setup in

2011. They put their name and reputation behind

the products they sell. It literally is a one-stop

shop for everything you’ll need to open a cafe.

Their crockery is second to none. Pricing is as

always competitive. Communication from the

sales team is impeccable.

Hugh Hindle – Owner

SHORT STRAW

“With their wealth of knowledge Chef’s Hat knows

your restaurant requirements before you do. Their

advice is genuine, their prices competitive and they

are an amazing support to any new or established

restaurant.”

Tony Tsiakos - Manager

Aaron Kahya - Chef

AT THE WELL

15BRACEGIRDLE’S HOUSE OF FINE CHOCOLATECANTEEN RICE PAPER SCISSORSUNCOMMONMEAT FISH WINE

“I have been dealing with Chef’s Hat for over 5

years and the service, variety of products and

pricing have been fantastic. They are always

available to tailor a solution to our needs and

have been right there with us as our business has

grown.”

Shane Stafford – Owner & Chef

RICE PAPER SCISSORS

“Chef’s Hat is the place to go when you want to buy

anything and everything from drinking straws and

tea light candles all the way through to ovens and

larger items, the service they provide is second to

none and they are always there for me when I need

advice or assistance. It really is Melbourne’s chefs and

passionate cook’s one stop shop for everything food

and kitchen related.”

David Schofield - Executive Chef

MEAT FISH WINE

“I love shopping at Chef’s Hat because the

customer service is fantastic, making it really easy

to set up my new business”

Bradley Johnston – Head Chef & Owner

CANTEEN (STH MELB MARKET)

“Chef’s Hat was our first choice when setting

up a new business in hospitality, the service

and convenience is something we couldn’t

look past. The range and quality of their

products has given us the confidence moving

forward now and into the future.”

Matt Kennedy - Head Chef

UNCOMMON.

“We have always found Chef’s Hat to be so easy

to deal with even though we are interstate. Their

service is very efficient and if they don’t have the

item that we require they will do their best to

source it for us”

Sue Bracegirdle – Owner

BRACEGIRDLE’S HOUSE OF

FINE CHOCOLATE

GRAM FEATURE

THINGS WE LOVE

Nestled in West Aisle in the South Melbourne Market, Babe’s Eggs have taken to the

Market’s no caged eggs policy with gusto. The Market launched their We Care about the

Chicken and the Egg campaign in November 2014 and since then no restaurants, cafes

or egg resellers are using or selling caged eggs.

Babe’s only stocks free range eggs including some farmed at the RSPCA approved 1800

hens per hectare, to their delicious Willow Zen range from a pasture-fed free range egg

farm where the hens roam at their 130 hens per hectare ratio.

It’s not only local eggs on offer, they also sell a huge range of

local honey including Jarrah, Grey Box, Clover, Red Gum, Iron

Bark and Local Flora varieties to name a few. They also make

their own raspberry, blackberry, strawberry and summerberry

jams.

BABE’S EGGS, SOUTH MELBOURNE MARKET

Award Winning Coffees Since 2001

VISIT BABE’S EGGS AT STALL 164

SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.COM.AU

PLATINUM SPONSORS SUPPORTING SPONSOR PROUD PARTNERS

INTERNATIONALCOFFEEE XPO.COM. AU

E V E R Y O N EFOR

MELBOURNE SHOWGROUNDS

VISIT GRAM AT STAND 4

PLATINUM SPONSORS SUPPORTING SPONSOR PROUD PARTNERS

INTERNATIONALCOFFEEE XPO.COM. AU

E V E R Y O N EFOR

MELBOURNE SHOWGROUNDS

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5,416 likes

chefjacqueslamerde: FEELIN PRETTY BANGED UP

2DAY BROS.  NOT ONLY DID I CUT MYSELF REAL

BAD ON A MICROPLANE, BUT I JUST GOT DUMPED

*AGAIN*!!!!! APPARNTLY IM “MARRIED 2 MY JOB”

AND “NOT FUN 2 BE AROUND” AND ALSO “HAVE

KIND OF LET MYSELF GO”!!! GEEZ BROS, AT LEAST

I HAVE JOSE TO HOLD ME WHILE I CRY-EAT ICE

CREAM IN THE WALKIN.  DONT WORRY BOUT ME

THO BROS, IM STILL GOING TO RALLY AND CRUSH

SERVICE W/ THIS V. TIGHT DESSERT FREESTYLE

FT. PEANUT BUTTER DRUMSTICK CONE, GENERIC

BANANA GAS STATION MUFFIN CONCASSE,

SMUCKERS CHOCOLATE TOPPIN, BUTTERSCOTCH

SNACK PACK CRE1MA, HONEY TEDDY GRAMS

EARTH AND YELLO FRUIT LOOPS GARNISH!!!!

#alannismorrisettepandoranonstop #dessertlife

#cheflife #theartofplating #gastroart #plateswagger

#soignéallday #drumsticks #snackpacks #foodart

#nextlevel #real #checkoutmytinderprofilepls

2,463 likes

chefjacqueslamerde: WE R 100 P FULLY BOOKED

4 ALL FIVE SEATINGS AND OUR INTERN WAITED

UNTIL 3:15 TO CALL IN SICK!!!! LIKE WUT WORLD

ARE THESE KIDS LIVIN IN THAT THEY THINK

CHEFS GET SICK DAYS??? U THINK I DONT GET

HEADACHES OR COUGH DUE TO COLD????!!!!! I DO

BROS, BUT U KNO WUT I TAKE IT LIKE A MAN AND

I EAT A FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH AND I LISTEN

2 SOME KENNY ROGERS AND I GET MY BUTT 2

WORK!!!! EXPECT SERVICE 2 BE EPIC 2NITE EVEN

W/ ONE MAN DOWN!!! HALF OF A KFC SCORCHER

DOUBLEDOWN, INVERTED 4 OZ RAMEKIN OF

GREEN COLESLAW, BILIGUAL PLUM SAUCE DEUX

FOIS, ROSE PETALS AND FOIE GRAS!!!

#kidsthesedays #cheflife #scorcher #doubledown

#kfc #invertedcoleslaw #tweezers #soigné

#negativespace #plumsauce #elegant #finedining

#theartofplating #gastroart #fourmagazine

#chefsifig #kennyrogers #ijustdroppedin

#toseewhatcondition #myconditionwasin

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In a sea of foodie Instagrams and sanctimonious

healthy eating social media accounts, there is

nothing more refreshing than someone making us

confront the silliness of it all.

The @chefjacqueslamerde Instagram brings this

humourous side of the food industry to the fore.

“Jacques” is a lovably thuggish chef with a giant

ego, a penchant for the words “dude” and “bro”,

and an immense pride in the art of beautiful plating.

Only “Jaqcues” isn’t plating truffled potato puree

and braised beef cheek – “Jacques” is creating a

high-end dining experience using ingredients such

as Doritos, Velveeta cheese (a processed cheese

from the US), corn dogs and cans of Spam, to

name a few.

Sounds outlandish? The @chefjacqueslamerde

account has amassed a 125k following and

counting, striking a chord with foodies and those

who work in the food industry alike.

Until the end of January this year, it remained a

mystery who was behind the account. As “Jacques”

gained a profile for the images of beautifully plated

junk food and the hilariously all-caps captions

that accompanied them, fans questioned who

was behind the account. And almost all guesses

centred around men.

The twist: On US show Top Chef in January,

“Jacques” was revealed to be Toronto-based

FEMALE chef Christine Flynn.

We had a chat to Christine shortly after the big

reveal, talking all things tweezered food, food

industry “bro culture” and the therapeutic nature

of expressing yourself creatively.

So how did you get into food in the first place?

I’ve always enjoyed working in food. I’ve always

felt it was a place where I could be creative. I’ve

been doing it for seventeen years now and I just

love it – I really enjoy the culture, which I guess is

kind of obvious by my alter ego [Jacques].

Do you think it actually is obvious, given you make fun of that culture through your @chefsjacqueslamerde account?

I think humour is different to different people.

One of the things important to me is I need to

constantly be making fun of myself. That was a

huge part of the account – I’ve obviously poked

a little fun at the more extreme elements of the

industry, but that was never meant to be malicious,

it was more just “look how silly we are sometimes

– let’s just have a little bit of a laugh”, which is why

I think people have enjoyed it.

So how did the @chefjacqueslamerde persona and account come about?

If you were to ask my mother, she would say it’s

actually just me in all-caps [laughs]! Really, I was

channelling myself at my most hysterical moments.

The character came out pretty fully formed.

Obviously I knew he was going to be a chef,

probably the chef I would be if I had been born a

man. Just this sort of bumbling goofball, constantly

getting himself into trouble, but you know, finding

a way to get out of it and give everyone that virtual

backslap to let them know that things are gonna

get better if you just push through.

So to me it was a very, and I hate to use this

expression, but it was an extremely organic

process.

So you didn’t have a run-in with some bro-like character and go, “You know what? I’m going to create a character like this”?

No - and you know I think it’s interesting how,

when you create something but don’t give an

explanation, people read a lot of different things

into it. Some people thought I was taking down

“bro culture”, or making fun of specific chefs, and I

wasn’t. I’ve been in this industry so long and 97 per

cent of my friends are men and I LOVE them. I’m

so happy to be around “bro culture”. I call people

“bro” all the time, I do the high five thing.

People were reading so much into it and really,

it was much simpler than that. I just plated food

as beautifully as I could, and [I was enjoying] the

extreme irony of going downstairs to spend five

dollars at my local La Bodega [supermarket] to

create a dish and plate it as beautifully as I could.

And that to me is what has made it funny.

You come from IQ Food Co in Toronto, which generally focuses on healthy, sustainable food. So why did you decide to plate up junk food as “Jacques”?

Again that hilarious irony was important to me. I

love plating, it’s something I really enjoy but it’s

also something I don’t get to do that much in my

everyday work.

But as for the junk food thing, I guess I look at

healthy eating and sustainability and what that

means to me as a person. For me personally, it’s

not sustainable to eat tofu all the time. I tried to be

vegan for a year… I was so stressed out about food

so I just said, “Ergh, I’m not good at this.”

CHEF JACQUES LA MERDE a.k.a. Christine Flynn

WORDS LAUREN BRUCE PHOTOGRAPHY - PORTRAIT GALDONES PHOTOGRAPHY FOOD IMAGES CHRISTINE FLYNN

867 likes

chefjacquelamerde: SOMETIMES PPL COME AT ME W/ “BRO,

HOW DO U KEEP IT SO TIGHT AND SO SOIGNÉ?!!!” AND MY

SECRET IS TO JUST ALWAYS COOK FROM THE HEART, BE REAL

AND TAKE INSPO FROM NATURE. I CALL THIS DISH “BUGS ON

A STICK” B/C THE CRAISINS R THE “BUGS” AND THE CHEEZE

WHIZ/CELERY IS THE “STICK.” ALSO CELERY SODA CAVIAR,

GRAHAM CRKR SOIL, CANOLA OIL PWDR + KALE SHREDS.

#foodporn #chefsofig #foodgasm #wildchefs #theartofplating

#soigné #truecooks #gastroart #hipsterfoodies #cheflife

#nextlevel #bereal

INTERVIEW INTERNATIONAL CHEF

20

I think you need to have balance in life – you have

to have a sense of humour and you can’t put too

many rules around what you eat. There’s so much

stuff out there that’s not happy that we have to

deal with every day, so what’s sustainable to me

is to make sure I laugh every day, and you know,

maybe I’ll have a handful of Doritos and it won’t be

the end of the world.

So has anyone eaten the food after you’ve plated/shot it?

I have a great photo collection of my dog eating

the food after I’m done. But yeah, there’s certainly

been a few that have been pretty edible, actually.

I didn’t grow up eating this food at all, so I hadn’t

really experienced any of the products until I

started the @chefjacqueslamerde account. So that

was kind of a draw card for me, because I was kind

of like, what IS this substance [laughs] and I picked

the weirdest things.

...Like Spam?

Yeah, Spam’s a good one, I’d never had Spam

before. Growing up in my house, we were dirt

poor, but we never ate processed food. It was so

foreign to me. So it’s been fun. And the nostalgic

component of it is cool. You know, Gummi Bears…

it’s fun to be around those things, to remember

what it’s like to be a kid when everything was

simpler.

So which photograph was your favourite? Is there one that stands out?

Well I love the Velveeta one. It was kind of a play

on another chef’s dish. It’s Velveeta Seven Ways,

and the simplicity of it was actually kind of what

was striking to me.

And then there was the Drumstick ice cream

shot, when I was going through this pretty rough

breakup and I was like, I’m just gonna write about

it on social media. And I was probably cry-eating

ice cream out of the tub at the time [laughs].

But you know, it’s a good thing to do, to create

things when you’re confused. Or upset. There are

so many positive things that can come out of that

- when you’re at your most raw, I think you’re also

at your most creative.

What made you decide to reveal your identity?

Well, it’s been a year [since I started the account]

and over the course of that year, I was spending

a lot of energy on my phone. You know, I want to

work on other projects and work with other chefs,

and you can’t do that when you’re anonymous.

So it was kind of time. Being a person that’s into

balance and collaboration and all these things, it

was time to go out there and be a real person.

Everyone thought a male chef was behind the account. The account was an alter ego that could’ve been male or female, so why do you think they made that assumption?

This is funny because I was very careful for a long

time never to reveal gender. Most of the names

were gender neutral, and my mum actually thought

Jacques’ sous chef “Jose” was “Josie”, which was

cute. And any time I mentioned someone else it

would be a name like Pat, or Leslie. So the whole

thing for me was a little bit of a social experiment.

I think though, when you have a chef who’s

throwing around the word “bro” all the time, then

yeah of course [it’s going to be assumed] it’s a

male.

And it was DELIGHTFUL for me to receive all

these direct messages that were like “BROTHER,

wassup? Your account is so tight! [laughs]”

And you know, women love “Jacques” too! I’d get

these direct messages on Instagram that were like

“I love you! And if you’re ever in wherever city, we

should hang out some time!”

Even one of my now good friends who wrote a

piece @chefjacqueslamerde for the Richmond

News – I had to finally call her and be like, “I’m not a

dude”. She was like, “Oh, I’m disappointed because

I kind of had the feels for you, but I’m also kind of

happy because it means it’s not gonna be weird

when you come and sleep on my couch” [laughs].

That’s hilarious. It’s interesting though… women in the food industry have to adopt a bit of that “bro culture” just to fit in with the kitchen as well?For sure. I mean, it took me a really long time to

find my way [in that world]. At first I was really…

1,575 likes

chefjacqueslamerde: FEAST OF THE SEVEN FISHES 2NITE

BROS!!! NOT SURE IF THIS COUNTS B/C I THINK MAYBE

OCTOPUS IS LIKE A CEPHALOPOD OR SUMTHIN BUT I

WONT TELL IF YOU DONT!!!!!! I CANT BELIEVE ITS NOT

(BROWN) BUTTER-SOUS VIDE OCTO, CRINKLE CUT TOP

DOGS, TINY ONIONS, MIRACLE WHIP DOTS, GINGERBREAD

SOIL, HICKORY STYX, PLANTS AND A LARGE SPOONFUL OF

POTATOES I MADE BY TENDERLY MIXIN 2GETHER POTATO

BUDS, HALF AND HALF AND SOME CAMPBELLS CREAMY

BUTTERNUT SOUP!!!!!

#feastofthesevenfishes #deliciousfishesdishes #merrychristmas

#seasonal #crinklecuthotdogs #octo #nomiku #tweezers

#moleculargastronomy #theartofplating #fourmagazine #hi

I was sweet; I was a pushover. And then I was very

tough. And I kind of transformed into a person that

I didn’t want to be, because I was worried people

wouldn’t respect me. Instead they were kind of

terrified of me, which I don’t think is much better.

I’m lucky now, I have a pretty good resume [which

makes that unnecessary] – and even though the

@chefjacqueslamerde account is all ranch dip

and cheese slices, the account has changed how

people look at me. And after it was revealed who

I am, I’m still kind of figuring that part out. But it’s

definitely helped me get to a place where instead

of being looked at as a “cool chick chef”, it’s more

like, “oh, she’s a cool chef”. It just teaches you that

you can’t pigeonhole people.

But you know, so many people were happy it was

me. A lot of male chefs who I respect were also

happy. It’s not just this “girl power” thing… it’s a

fun twist.

When you create an Instagram post, how long does it take you to come up with the dish, plate it up and then shoot and caption it?

So it’s just shot on an iPhone. I would usually,

after a stressful day at work or something, go to

the grocery store and probably spend about 15

minutes thinking about a little bit of a theme, and

I’d take the food home and I’d plate it, and that

would probably take around five minutes, and

then I’d write the caption.

Usually the caption is something that either

happened to me that day or maybe to one of

my friends. But usually it happened to me. Like

someone would drop a blender in the sink. And

we’d have a no-show. And I went through a break

up. So it was pretty easy to write about all of that

because it was actually happening.

...Kind of like a journal?

Oh yeah for sure. And I think social media is

fascinating, right, because we’re all constantly

branding ourselves, saying you know, how great life

is, it’s so amazing, we’re perfect, our makeup’s on

fleek – meanwhile [through @chefjacqueslamerde]

I’ve been like, “My life is falling apart! [laughs]”’

It was like this open, raw honesty that was like, you

know, we all have those days, and really the only

thing you can do is pull your socks up and carry

on. And crush it.

You can find the @chefjacqueslamerde account

on Instagram and online:

www.chefjacqueslamerde.com.

Enjoy 2 hours FREE parking on Market days

Wed 8am – 4pmFri 8am – 5pmSat 8am – 4pmSun 8am – 4pm

902 likes

chefjacquelamerde: 1567 COVERS LAST NIGHT AND OUR

POS WENT DOWN AT 5:45. BROS! I WAS SWEATIN BALLS!!!

3 HRS OF SLEEP AND BACK AT IT !!! #YOLO!!!! 2NITES

SPEC = HAWAIIAN BAGEL BITES, CHEETOS, BABY CARROT

+ RANCH PURÉE, SMALL VEGETABLES AND CHIPOTLE

OIL #foodporn #onthemenu2nite #chefsofig #wildchefs

#chefshare #theartofplating #gastroart #hipsterfoodies

22

23

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BRODIE WRIGHT - THE HUNGRY BABUSHKA

THE SPOT

Upon entering The Spot Café you are greeted by a bearded, smiley face.

A beard with more substance than one sported by any trend setting

Brunswick barista - a beard grown before beards were cool.

The man behind the beard is The Spot owner, Khalil Qubbaj.

The second thing that strikes you about Qubbaj is his unrestrained

enthusiasm for good food and great coffee. This is evident in The Spot’s

skilful selection of beans for their current house blend – brazenly going

against the grain of popular chocolate notes and brewing up a cup of joe

that will leave a sweet, fruity taste courtesy of 5 Senses’ Tightrope blend.

The Spot menu give a glimpse into Qubbaj’s journey, from his childhood

days watching his mum lovingly prepare meals for their family, to his new

life in Australia with wife Rim and their adventurous toddler, Mohammed.

Middle Eastern with a touch of Aussie Sunday breakfast, the meals are

exotic enough to pique your curiosity while still being approachable.

Popular dishes include Baked Moroccan Eggs topped with a cooling labne

and a sprinkle of tangy zaatar and the Super Salad of red kale, organic trio

quinoa, heirloom tomato and pomegranate jewels which bring all the health

food fanatics to their yard (and yes, they have to charge).

Importantly, the place is completely Instagram-worthy. The olive green,

perfectly padded stools from Schots Emporium that just invite you to

perch upon them and browse through the weekend paper, to the recycled

messmate timber table tops from Timber Revival (hand picked by Qubbaj,

of course) you’ll be snapping away before, during and after your meal

(#nofilterneeded).

THE SPOTShop 6 14-20 Nicholson Street, Coburg

thespotcoffeeandfood@gmail.com

instagram.com/thespotcoffee

facebook.com/thespotcoffeeandfood

D I G I T A L C U P S

WWW.DETPAK.COMAUSTRALIA 1300 362 620

Introducing Detpak’s revolutionary cup capability… high quality photographic print with optional high-build dimensional varnish. With no plate charges

and low run quantities starting at 12,000 cups this is the new reality!

Discover for yourself at MICE 2016. Stand #187.

Shop 6, 14-20 Nicholson Street, Coburg

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY MEGAN OSBORNE

BRAE4285 Cape Otway Road, Birregurra

Ranking high on any Melburnian foodie’s agenda, is

a trip to regional gastronomical heaven; Brae. With

a strong focus on organically grown produce and

respect for food and natural, sustainable production,

Brae dishes up a unique offering that stands out in

Australia’s food industry. Chef and Owner Dan Hunter

has been internationally recognised for producing and

creating a cuisine that not only tastes amazing, but

follows a philosophy that speaks volumes of the future

of food consumption.

With worldwide experience and a deep knowledge

of food preparation and creation, Hunter opened up

Brae in 2013, taking over, renovating and extending the

existing building. ‘I always wanted to be in this region.’

He says, ‘I used to come to Apollo Bay for holidays

as a kid.’ As well as having an affinity with the area,

Hunter’s most recent six-year stint at the Royal Mail

Hotel in Dunkeld enabled him to establish and build

relationships with producers west of Melbourne.

‘[There is] a great hub of alternative agriculture in this

region, from small berry farms to shiitake growers,’

says Hunter, and while he aims to organically grow the

majority of produce on the property, he’s also glad to

have set up shop in what he claims to be one of the

best regions in Victoria.

‘Brae is easy to get to’, Hunter laughs, ‘It’s literally two

left turns from Melbourne, one up Cape Otway Road

and one up the driveway.’ The drive from Melbourne

takes an hour and a half, but the trip is well worth

the mileage (and with swanky new accommodation

designed by Six Degrees Architects, you can choose

to relax as you digest your degustation, too). The small

vegetable garden that existed on the 30 acre property

in 2013, has grown to encompass many different types

of fruit and vegetables, including over 200 fruit trees

of figs, quinces, varieties of Japanese plums, apricots

and a lot of citrus, with plans to develop a wheat

crop, too. The aim is to grow as much seasonal fruit

and veg as possible, and to have first-hand access to

organic produce that would otherwise get negatively

affected with handling and transportation. ‘I struggle

to buy good food in a domestic marketplace that has

the same flavour as wholesale organic food, straight

from the grower. And it’s just time. It’s the middle man,

the handling, the cold storage, all those things shuts

everything down.’ Hunter says.

Brae’s practices focus on minimising (and in many

cases, eliminating) the amount of refrigeration that

happens. ‘There’s amazing fruit that we might pick at 6

o’clock in the evening, and someone’s eating it at 6:30

to 7pm, it’s still full of sunshine. Things like tomatoes

are never ever refrigerated’ he states passionately,

‘strawberries, no way. The flavour just disappears.

Then you’re working so hard to extract that flavour

again.’ With the right foundations for growing, storage

and handling, Hunter believes laying the groundwork

in advance is reflected in the end result—awesome

flavour.

A lot of the produce at Brae is picked the same day

that it ends up on your plate, with minimal influence

from the Western view on storage of primary products.

With exceptions of course, such as meat—which is

dry aged longer for secondary flavours to develop,

or in the fermentation of black garlic, which is grown,

cured, wrapped, then kept at 55 degrees for 30 days.

‘It caramelises and becomes like a black jelly, and it has

a taste of balsamic and vanilla. It’s just phenomenal.’

Hunter says, commonly pairing it with pork jowl, or

drying it out to make a rich, sweet and savoury garlic

powder for dusting. ‘The great skill in this type of

cuisine, is understanding the product, the best thing

for the product, and making that the priority.’

26

The menu at Brae is a degustation of the current season. ‘This time of year it’s very floral,

very alive, very green, it speaks of time as much as place’, Hunter says, adamant about

staying true to seasonality. ‘You won’t see tropical foods on the menu in winter, or hothouse

tomatoes from Queensland in July, because it’s not representative of what Brae is. I find it

much easier to work within the boundaries of seasonal variation than to buy externally, it

doesn’t sit well with me.’

The garden is grown with some key ingredients in mind, but what ripens and when, influences

the dishes on offer and fuels the kitchen’s creativity. ’It’s about being open to the gesture

of the nature that you’re in.’ Hunter states. Some of the most interesting combinations that

Brae has served up, sometimes only exist for a day or two. ‘That opportunity comes across

a couple of times a season, but it’s just about being in a spot and open minded, and having

an abundance of things around to be able to play with and play off. Because those things

can be aroma. They can be a brush against a leaf, or the smell of the way a plant reacts while

you’re eating something else.’ A previous unique combination has been super-fragrant white

strawberries paired with broad beans, and a stock made out of fig leaves infused into whey

from milk, iced down like a granita. ‘It was a really amazing combination of the strawberry

and the broad bean which I didn’t imagine. It was a beautiful, refreshing dish that just spoke

of a few days.’ Hunter’s excitement over unpredictable seasonal combinations is palpable.

‘Creating a flavour from a couple of ingredients that you think; shit that’s amazing, that’s a

dish right there.’

With a kitchen hosting nationalities from across the globe, people travel to work at Brae, and

they get an experience they can’t get anywhere else, using ingredients endemic to south east

Australia. The dining experience is loosely modelled on how Hunter

would host you, were you to dine at his house. From casual drinks

and finger food, to sit down vegetables and protein, finishing with

simple fruit-based desserts. The environment and presentation at

Brae verges on jaw-dropping, but the vibe is relaxed, warm and

engaging, with none of the pretension usually associated with

such a high-class dining experience. Initial courses are even served

without cutlery, encouraging patrons to eat with their hands. ‘We

like you to make a mess.’ Hunter says, ‘We often find that by doing

that, people that had any form of apprehension start to relax.’

For one to list stand-out dishes, there has to be some. At Brae, all

the dishes eclipse modern expectations of flavour, technique and

plating by such a grand scale, that to list the ‘stand-outs’, would

be to recite the whole menu. Each dish embodies an exciting

adventure, an experience truly delightful and immersive for diners.

The written menu at Brae lists only a few elements in each dish,

rather hoping to surprise and elicit curiosity. One dessert which

shattered perceptions of the humble parsnip, was simply titled

‘Parsnip and Apple’ and inspired oohs and aahs from around the

restaurant.

As a food writer, I spend a lot of time describing elements on a plate, but I find myself at

a loss putting my experience at Brae into words. The entire service staff are very close-

mouthed about what diners can expect to sample (until after said sampling), and now that

I’ve eaten, consumed, exclaimed and enjoyed the myriad tastes at Brae, I can understand

why they don’t want to design or influence expectations.

Dining at Brae is a unique experience, and understanding the effort, care and time that has

gone into planning, implementing, and managing the produce, adds an extra level to how

impressive the offering is.

If you’re interested in finding out about some of Hunter’s amazing techniques in the kitchen,

he will be releasing a cookbook in 2017 representing the restaurant, how it works in its

environment, and more about the local region. But if you’d rather sit back and indulge in a

foodie fantasy for four hours, then we’ll see you at the dining table.

BRAE4285 Cape Otway Road, Birregurra

PH: (03) 5236 2226

Open Thursday dinner, Friday to Saturday lunch and dinner.

Accommodation now available.

braerestaurant.com

THE FAMILY YOUWISH YOU HAD

REAL CRAFT BEER BREWED BY REAL PEOPLENO FAMILY MEMBERS WE HURT (MUCH) IN THE MAKING OF THIS BEER

560 FRANKSTON-DANDENONG RD. CARRUM DOWNS, VIC - tap room OPENING SOONWWW.DAINTONBREWING.COM.AU | FACEBOOK.COM/DAINTONFAMILYBREWERY

28

29

WORDS CHARLEY MAY

TALKING INtonguesHanging out with seasoned winos can feel a bit like being the new kid at

school, catching public transport in a non-English speaking country or being

the last person to have seen the hottest new Netflix series… awkward and

confusing. Why? Because the language of wine is complicated, and if you

don’t speak it you can feel like an outsider. Yet when armed with the right

lingo ‘winespeak’ is easier to understand. So here are some of the terms

you’re likely to hear that’ll help you take part in the conversation.

ALTERNATIVE VARIETIESIt’s a term used in Australia to describe any other grape that isn’t chardonnay,

shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, merlot or semillon. You’re going to be drinking

more alternative varietals in the future… and that’s exciting because they’ll

cope better with climate change than many mainstream grapes and they

taste ace. So if you want to freshen up your glass, then get around white

and reds like fiano, vermentino, viognier, gruner veltliner, aglianico, graciano,

sangiovese and tempranillo. And these producers are making great ones:

ArtWine, Chalmers, Yalumba, Handorf Hill, Calabria Family Wines, Brown

Brothers, Coriole and S.C.Pannell.

BIODYNAMICA term that delights and divides the industry, this describes a philosophy

of winemaking that’s free of chemicals and more in touch with the natural

cycles of life and the universe. In the theory, the approach is believed to

have a beneficial effect on the quality and character of wine. In practice, it

can be hard to assess because it’s possible to make outstanding biodynamic

and conventionally crafted vino. While research is underway to assess

differences between them, sometimes you don’t need science to tell you

when something feels or tastes great, you just have to trust your instincts.

COOL-CLIMATEIt’s a pretty amusing term given Australia is one of the hottest and driest

continents on earth. However, it’s becoming trendy in the wine world and

is often used as a shorthand for quality… which is not always guaranteed.

To qualify as cool climate, a region needs to be located within a specific

latitude, have a certain temperature and elevation. Wines from cool climate

regions generally have less alcohol, higher acidity, a lighter body and more

subtle flavours than warm region peers. However, arguing about which type

of region is better is futile because if you plant the right grapes in the right

place, nurture them and bring them to life with care, then you can make

good wine from either. At the end of a day, it’s a matter of personal taste as

to which you prefer.

TERROIRPronounced ‘ter-waahr’, this is a French term with no literal English equivalent

that loosely translates to mean ‘a sense of place’. While this term is specific

to wine, it’s applicable to other food and drink, and describes a phenomena

where soil, climate and culture combine to give rise to something that

reflects its origins with a unique taste. If you’re a coffee fiend, you’ll know

that despite being made from arabica beans, two single-origin pours can

be worlds apart because where they’re grown and how they’re treated has

a big effect on their flavour. The same goes with wine, and these days most

Aussie winemakers are proud of where they’re from and want this to shine

through in their wines.

SINGLE-VINEYARDThis describes wines where the fruit has been sourced from just one

vineyard. These wines have been made to express the personality of this

specific place through flavour. While the ambition behind single-vineyard

wines is cool, the term seems to have been co-opted as a point of difference

that makes these wines somehow better than others that have been sourced

from multiple vineyards or regions. It’s a contentious issue, but you’ll find

both excellent and average wines made from single-vineyards or a blend of

many.

TEXTUREIt’s a term used to describe the ‘feel’ of wine. While we can smell and taste a

range of flavours in wine, we also have the capacity to feel if a wine is smooth,

minerally, slippery or coarse. These sensations are caused by the alcohol,

acid, sugar, tannins and a myriad of other natural compounds found in wine.

Each variety has it’s own natural textural fingerprint that can contribute to

the character of the wine. Or texture can be built into a wine using various

techniques. Either way, it’s a very important element to creating a three

dimensional tasting experience.

UNFILTERED WINEThese are wines that haven’t been filtered to remove the tiny particles, such

as dead yeast and sediment, before being bottled. There are two schools

of thought on filtering: that it’s a necessary step to producing stable, clear

wine, or that it strips out much of the wine’s character. There’s no need

to take sides, both approaches are just different and can produce equally

delicious wine.

WILD-FERMENTEDThis basically means letting the natural yeasts on the grape, vineyard and

winery do their thing instead of adding cultured yeast to the juice. There

are thousands of yeast strains that have been isolated over the years from

vineyards across the world and turned into cultures for winemakers to use.

Each strain is unique and can help bring out specific flavours and characters

in the wine. However, rather than relying on cultured yeast, more winemakers

are letting their vineyard’s indigenous yeast ferment the wine to give a truer

expression of where it’s from.

So fill your glass and be confident about what you’re saying because there

is no right or wrong when it comes to wine, just a bottle full of fun and good

banter.

A GUIDE TO UNDERSTANDING ‘WINESPEAK’

30

31

SERVES 8

50 g (1¾ oz) sugar

2 pears, peeled, cored and cut into eighths lengthways

150 g (5½ oz) dark chocolate

90 g (3 oz) unsalted butter, cubed

90 g (3 oz) caster (superfine) sugar

90 g (3 oz) almond meal

3 eggs, separated

1 teaspoon cocoa powder for dusting

icing (confectioners’) sugar for dusting (optional)

Combine the sugar with 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) water in a

saucepan and set over a medium heat. Add the pear and poach

for 10–15 minutes, or until tender but not too soft (a knife should

easily penetrate the flesh without any resistance). Drain and let

the pear pieces cool.

Melt the chocolate over a bain-marie or double boiler. When

melted, remove from the heat, add the butter and stir until the

butter has melted. Add the sugar and almond meal, stirring to

combine. When the mixture is cool, add the egg yolks.

Preheat the oven to 180°C (360°F). Grease a 22–24 cm (8¾–9¼

in) round springform cake tin and dust with the cocoa powder.

In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites to firm peaks, then

fold them into the chocolate batter. Pour the chocolate mixture

into the tin. Arrange the pear pieces on the top of the batter,

pushing them slightly in. Bake for 40 minutes, or until a skewer

inserted into the middle of the cake comes out clean.

When cool, remove the cake from the cake tin and, just before

serving, dust liberally with icing sugar, if desired. Serve in modest

slices – this is rather rich.

TORTA DI PERA E CIOCCOLATOPEAR AND CHOCOLATE CAKE

www.chefshat.com.au

Recipe taken from Florentine by Emiko Davies

published by Hardie Grant Books and available now

where all good books are sold.

FLORENTINE

by Emiko Davies

RRP: $49.99

32

There’s something special about going out to drink coffee.

It’s never been for the caffeine because honestly it does

nothing for me. I can go to sleep after an espresso and not

wake up for hours. It’s an experience with the cup I hold in

my hand and a relationship with the cafe and people who

work there. The more I feel toward a place or the person I

connect with, the better the coffee seems to taste and the

more I want to return. Every Friday, unless I have somewhere

else to be, you’ll find me at The St Kilda Dispensary drinking

coffee with owner Kristy Andruszko. I rarely meet anyone

there, because that way I get to chat with her and catch up

on the week’s events while she prepares my coffee, exactly

how I like it, vintage spoon on the side, ready for a photo,

perfect every time. It has become a weekly ritual and one

I don’t like to break.

The building used to be a thriving dispensary back in the

1940s and Kristy single-handedly transformed this into

a unique space with medical knick knacks she collected,

being sympathetic to its history, not wanting to follow the

minimalist industrial trend of stark white walls, blonde wood

and metal fixtures. At the same time back in 2013, coffee

in Melbourne had also taken a new direction favouring

lighter, fruitier roasts, but in her inimitable style Kristy went

with her heart and what she believed her customers would

want and chose Allpress and their original Supremo blend.

Combining three beans from Brazil, Colombia and PNG,

it has body, sweetness, a little acidity and a strong cocoa

flavour. The coffee cuts through milk like a knife, but always

blends beautifully to create a tasty well rounded cup. As it

is roasted a little darker I find I need a touch more milk in

my macchiato, but this is never an issue as it means a few

more sips for me.

I decided on this occasion to pay a visit to the roastery in

Collingwood to meet the team and check out their hot air

roaster, designed by Michael Allpress himself together with

engineer Mike Scobie in order to extract the sugars, develop

richness and length of flavour and produce a consistent,

even roast. From here the coffee is packed and labelled

by hand and baristas and cafe owners are encouraged to

participate in training offered on site. The sense of passion

and care I felt while there aligns perfectly with Kristy and

what she has set out to achieve at The St Kilda Dispensary,

so now when I drink my coffee every week, I understand

exactly why she chose this brand and why every cup is

made with such affection, making the taste just that little

bit sweeter.

Share in the Supremo love at -

The St Kilda Dispensary - 13 Brighton Rd St Kilda

Kitty Burns - 24 Acacia Pl, Abbotsford

Tall Timber - 60 Commercial Rd, Prahran

Friends of Mine - 506 Swan St, Richmond

Francis Winifred - 94 Winifred St, Oak Park

Pope Joan - 77-79 Nicholson St, Brunswick East

REVIEWS

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY ON THE BANDWAGON

HERE FOR THE LONG HAUL: STONE BREWING - GO TO IPA

ALLPRESS ESPRESSO - SUPREMO BLEND

I have been quite deliberate in keeping my monthly GRAM

beer reviews (save for one) to beers brewed by independent

Australian breweries.

The local industry is vibrant and robust yet still has a way

to go to catch up with our friends in the UK, Europe, USA

and perhaps even New Zealand. It’s this point and my

inclination to root for the underdog that convinced me

to showcase local heroes who fight the good fight minus

the big marketing budget. But, like a well earnt holiday

reinvigorates the soul and broadens the mind, it can prove

beneficial to look to other parts of the world to see why

independent craft beer production and consumption is far

from a fad - it’s officially a “thing”.

Rock n’ Roll loving beer tragics Greg Koch and Steve

Wagner met through mutual friends and established Stone

Brewing in 1996 as a statement of defiance against the

tyrannical duopoly controlling the American beer industry.

Like any business, these guys had to endure many ups

and downs but fast forward to 2016 and Stone Brewing

grown to be one of the largest craft brewers in America

and, once their Berlin site is complete very soon, will be the

first American craft brewer to own and operate a brewery

in Europe. While this success is amazing for a couple of

guys that have stuck to their beliefs about beer, its contents

and ownership, I guess one could point out the irony of the

Berlin move given Stone preach a genuinely local ethos.

Others would say, “Who cares as long as the beer is good”.

I’ll allow you guys to make your own minds up.

Anyway, let’s talk about this beer. Stone’s Go To IPA came

out in early 2014 riding the wave of requests from their

customers for a tasty, hop forward beer that they can enjoy

all day. The result was a superb drinking experience brewed

with 8 different hops and a well-rounded malt backbone

that gives you a strong tropical fruit hit on the nose, a

controlled hoppy hit at 65 IBU’s and enough cerebral

coherence to talk all night about the footy, why Vikings

is a better TV series than Game Of Thrones or the new

Snapchat filters or… whatever! It is a beer that would sit

just as comfortably on a table at a high-end restaurant as

it would in a stubby holder at the beach. Definitely a Go To

IPA. Available at most good beer venues and bottle shops

around Melbourne and regional Victoria. Cheers!

ABV: 4.5%

STYLE: India Pale Ale

SERVING TEMP: 4 degrees

ORIGIN: Escondido, San Diego California (US)

FOOD PAIRING: Spicy Mexican

PRICE (RRP): Bar or Restaurant $9-12 (355ml)

BUY IT HERE: experienceitbeverages.com.au

allpressespresso.com.au

info@allpressespresso.com.au

8415 5777

33

If you had told me ten years ago that I would one day write

about a cream sherry, I would have immediately conjured

up images of the Australian McWilliams version in my

head – the one that I used to sip in the summer sunshine

with my Nonna on a special occasion. Fast forward to

today and I am writing about a very different wine made

in a very different style.

Toro Albalá have been making wine in the Montilla region

of southern Spain for quite some time. In fact, they are

sort of renowned as experts in the matter. This example is

made entirely from Pedro Ximénez (PX) grapes that were

made into Oloroso sherry and blended over ten years in a

solera system, a method that adds fresh wine to old wine

and builds complexity in flavour and aroma. Add a dash

of their famous Don PX Gran Reserva and the result is

exquisite.

Pale amber in colour you are immediately drawn into the

glass by aromas of toasted walnuts, vanilla, salted caramel

and dried apricots. On the palate you would not call it very

sweet, so for those expecting a viscous style of PX, look

elsewhere. The overall effect is delicate with the subtle

salted caramel and nut flavours carrying it far. Sip it slowly

and enjoy the walnut skin-like texture at the finish with

ice-cream, fruits and citrus-based desserts.

Montilla, Spain

RRP $26 for 500ml

Stockist: Try Prince Wine Store in South Melbourne

REVIEWS

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LA DONNA DEL VINO

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BAR/D UP

LOOP ROOF

TORO ALBALÁ MARQUÉS DE POLEY CREAM PEDRO XIMÉNEZ NV

In collaboration with Tequila Tromba

A rooftop is always the perfect vantage point to

get a feel for the surrounding city, and if you can

be holding a drink in your hand while doing it...

even better! Between Little Collins and Bourke

in Meyers Place you’ll find Loop Roof perched

high in the sky three floors above the Loop

Project Space & Bar. In a place like Melbourne

where it can be a scorching 35 degrees one

minute, then 18 degrees and raining the next,

you need to be prepared for all seasons. With

retractable awnings, heaters and a misting

system you can be cool or cozy regardless of

the weather.

Attracting some of the city’s best bartenders,

there are quality beverages being made here,

including shared jugs like the Lagerita made

with Tequila Tromba blanco and finished with a

bottle of Corona for a refreshing easy to drink

twist on a classic Margarita. There’s a small food

menu that changes regularly to suit the seasons,

tasty bites all designed to share with friends.

If you like to sit and sip amongst lush greenery

with the sky so close you can almost touch it,

then the Loop Roof Cocktail Bar and Garden -

Melbourne is a little Garden of Eden in an urban

jungle.

Head to bardup.com.au to check out the video.

INSTAGRAM: bardupmelb

FACEBOOK: bardupmelb

LOOP ROOFLEVEL 3, 23 MEYERS PLACE,

MELBOURNE, VIC, 3000

03 9654 0500

LOOPROOFTOPBAR.COM.AU

N E W C O O K B O O K A V A I L A B L E N O W

T H E G U I D E . W E B S I T E / F L O R E N T I N E

35

OUT AND ABOUT

MJR TOM NEW DINNER MENU LAUNCH

With a new dinner menu featuring Latin inspired eats from head chef Sam Kearney, a selection of Melbourne’s foodies and bloggers were invited to the launch at MJR TOM in Collingwood, executed to perfection by owner Nick Tiktikakis in collaboration with the team at True Tribe. Dishes included a mushroom parfait, kingfish

ceviche, marinated baby mackerel on squid ink rice cracker, crab & coconut croquetas, octopus on confit potato and many more, all paired with great wine and beer. Guests also took home a goodie bag with products from Sample Brew, Pana Chocolate and Romcaffè.

INNOVATE YOUR PLATE

World-renowned Marcus Oldham College brought together the movers and shakers from regional agribusinesses to celebrate an evening of innovation, collaboration and entrepreneurship with the ‘Innovate the Plate’ event this

month. The event aimed to put the spotlight on some of Australia’s leading agribusiness entrepreneurs and provide insight into their innovative business journey throughout the ‘paddock to plate’ process.

PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG

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THE DIARY

4 - 13 March 2016THE MELBOURNE FOOD AND WINE FESTIVALVarious Venues across Victoria

The 2016 Melbourne Food and Wine Festival presented by Bank of Melbourne will run from March 4 to 13 in Australia’s culinary capital, Melbourne.

Gather along the Yarra River to enjoy free entertainment and provincial flavours at the River Graze, sharpen your skills at a MasterClass or sip your way through the world’s vineyards with wine tastings and pairings galore.

Indulge your senses at the Bank of Melbourne World’s Longest Lunch, or go regional in 24 lunching locations outside of Melbourne, and enjoy the best produce Victoria has to offer.

Whether you are a seasoned foodie or just looking for something new, there’s a smorgasbord of events to try. Join Melbourne Food and Wine Festival for ten days of unforgettable food and wine experiences.

Book now and full event line up: melbournefoodandwine.com.au

12 - 13 March 2016TASTES OF RUTHERGLEN57 Main Street, Rutherglen

Tastes of Rutherglen 2016 is Rutherglen’s premiere wine and gourmet food event.

With award-winning wineries partnering with leading regional chefs and producers, Tastes of Rutherglen is the perfect way to sample the best of what the region has to offer.

This event not only showcases Rutherglen’s outstanding wines and food, it also gives you the chance to get behind the scenes at many of the wineries to learn about the history and hard work that goes into making world class wines.

Experience all the fantastic wine, food and events at Tastes of Rutherglen.

tastesofrutherglen.com.au

19 March 2016BENDIGO CRAFT BEER AND WINE FESTIVALTom Flood Sports Centre, Bendigo

Take in a day full of some of the best handcrafted beers and ciders produced in Australia, taste a range of gourmet foods all while relaxing on the grassed arena listening to a variety of artists playing live music.

The Bendigo Craft Beer and Cider Festival brings together an amazing range of award winning craft beers and ciders from all over the state and beyond, come along and re acquaint yourself with some of the returning brewers or try from some festival first timers, a great day is sure to be had by all.

Explore and discover over 100 craft beers and ciders. From micro breweries you’ve never heard of, special one-off brews, right through to varieties you know and love.

bendigocraftbeerfestival.com.au

17 - 19 March 2016MELBOURNE INTERNATIONAL COFFEE EXPOMelbourne Showgrounds

The Melbourne International Coffee Expo is back for 2016, with an incredible range of new features to engage every segment of the supply chain.

Now in its fifth year, MICE has become the largest coffee-dedicated event in the region, and one of the biggest in the world.

Café owners, roasters, baristas, equipment manufacturers, distributors and service providers are among the more than 10,000 visitors who flock to this event every year.

internationalcoffeeexpo.com

13 March 2016MAD HATTER’S MARSANNE PARTYMadame Brussels, Level 3, 59 Bourke Street, Melbourne

Madame Brussels is flinging open her doors to reveal the magical Mad Hatter’s garden. Indulge in free flowing Tahbilk Marsanne, served many ways, and delectable desserts at the party of all parties.

The moment you enter Wonderland your senses will be tantalised with delicious desserty delights and free flowing Marsanne, served in many ways. Are you Alice or are you the Mad Hatter?

Come and play with Madame Brussels to find out.http://www.melbournefoodandwine.com.au/program/mad-hatters-marsanne-party-6139

9-11 March 2016SQUARE MARKETThe Atrium, Federation SquareGlobal payments technology company Square has invited Melbourne’s favourite small business heroes to join it for Square Market, a unique popup marketplace celebrating small business at Federation Square.

Over three days, businesses that you know and love—Market Lane Coffee, Shortstop Coffee & Donuts, Mork Chocolate, That Dapper Chap, Butterbing Cookies, Those Girls, Cobb Lane Bakery, Adriano Zumbo, Sensory Lab, Hunters’ Roots, 5 & Dime Bagel and many more—are joining emerging artists, homewares designers, illustrators, crafters and buskers to sell direct to the public at one of the city’s most iconic destinations.

“Whether you’re looking for great coffee or doughnuts, local art to street art, markets or makers, Melbourne has something to for everyone to enjoy, ” commented Square’s Australian Country manager, Ben Pfisterer. “Melbourne’s small businesses are as diverse as its neighbourhoods. Since opening our office in Melbourne in May 2015, Square has partnered with and powered the local small business community and we wanted to give back to the heroes who help create this diverse and interesting element of Melbourne’s cultural identity.”

Different sellers are invited back on different days, to create a constantly changing and evolving retail space where small businesses can trade to a bustling crowd and compete with bigger businesses right on their home turf. Ben Pfisterer said, “Square is committed to empowering sellers with the tools to grow their business, and Square Market is all about giving sellers a platform to promote themselves, sell their products or service and offer a memorable customer experience designed to bring customers back to their business again and again in the future.”

Square Market is open daily from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. from 9–11 March. Enter via The Atrium at Flinders Street, Federation Square. Entry to Square Market is completely free. Stop in and support Melbourne’s finest small businesses.

https://squareup.com/au/townsquare/square-market-federation-square/

Better Service... Bigger Results!

beller.com.au 03 8532 2222Level 4, 613 St Kilda Road, Melbourne

ULTRA PRIME RETAIL PREMISES WITH MASSIVE DOUBLE FRONTAGE

• Rare Opportunity to Secure One of Acland Street’s Best Retail Premises

• Suit a Variety of Uses (STPA)

• Building Area: 180 sqm* Over 2 Levels

• Surrounded by National Tenants Including Coles, Sportsgirl, Industrie, and Hairhouse Warehouse to Name a Few

• First Floor Offices / Storage

• Rear Services Courtyard

ALBERT PARK MANOR

• Landmark Restaurant/Café/Bar

• North-West Facing Alfresco Forecourt

• Build in Outdoor Seating

• Planning Permit Approved (STCA)

• Grease Trap, Gas & Exhaust Provisions

• Three Phase Power

• Tenancy Area: 280 sqm*

• Secure On-Site Parking

• Male, Female and Disabled Toilets

• Bin Store and Wash

• Large On-Site Storage Area

• Footpath Dining Available

The recently refurbished Albert Park Manor was built in the early 1900’s and was originally utilized as a veteran’s hospital after WW1, the building boasts charming original heritage details carefully blended with designer modern features.

Situated in the “Domain Precinct”, Melbourne’s most elite and sought after suburb near the corner of Toorak and St Kilda Roads, South Yarra, this broad fronted property will surely impress.

Surrounded by iconic Melbourne locations and restaurants such as Entrecote, Hotel Gitan and the Botanical. Don’t miss your opportunity to secure one of the areas last hospitality venues.

ELWOOD’S BEST RETAIL

• Ideal For Hospitality Use

• Tenancy Area: 67 sqm* + Storage Cage

• Planning Permit Approved

• Exhaust/Grease Trap

• Infrastructure Ready

• GoGet Cars in Neighbourhood

• Three Phase Power

• Available Mid 2016

Melbourne’s beachside suburb of Elwood is nestled between St Kilda and Brighton eight kilometres south of the CBD

Sometimes viewed as a leafy extension to St Kilda, it has it’s own quaint charm and character, but is close enough to the best of St Kilda’s offerings. Ormond Road, Elwood is known by the local’s for it’s abundance of trendy coffee hangouts, eateries that cater for all true foodies and shopping for all those last minute gifts. With plenty of on-street parking within the area, there are also GoGet community share vehicles for those environmentally persuaded.

The nearby beaches are lined with parks and paved walking and bicycle tracks, perfect for that lunch time run and outdoor exercise. The abundance of apartments nearby will guarantee a solid customer base for your business. Make your mark in Elwood!

BRAND NEW RETAIL SPACES IN PRIME LOCATION

Four brand new retail spaces available from 2016 forming part of the new Atherton & Atkinson mixed use development.

Centrally located in the heart of Oakleigh with great exposure.

• Shop 1: 122 sqm*

• Shop 2: 126 sqm*

• Shop 3: 66 sqm*

• Cafe / Restaurant: 106 sqm*

*approx

*approx

*approx

*approxRichard Munday 0418 180 919

Sam Fogarty 0414 288 229 Richard Munday 0418 180 919

Sam Fogarty 0414 288 229

Liam Rafferty 0421 886 655

154 - 156 ACLAND ST, ST KILDA

LOOKING FOR CAFE/RESTAURANT SPACE IN THE SUBURBS? CALL MELBOURNE’S LEADING COMMERCIAL SUBURBAN AGENTS.Brendan Goss 0400 575 596

Liam Rafferty 0421 886 655

Richard Munday 0418 180 919

Sam Fogarty 0414 288 229

Fred Nucara 0418 567 560

405 ST KILDA ROAD, ST KILDA

84 ORMOND ROAD, ELWOOD

63 - 65 ATHERTON ROAD, OAKLEIGH

FOR LEASE

FOR LEASE

FOR LEASE

FOR LEASE

FOR LEASE

FOR LEASE

FOR LEASE

FOR LEASE

Artist Impression

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Boundaries are indicative only

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