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Aliquis 8, 2008

frv

New Talent: Fashion’s Future

Issue #1, Spring 2010

EDITOR’SLETTER

Welcome to FRV

Dear Reader,

I’m extremely proud to introduce the first issue of FRV Magazine. The magazine is a completely free magazine and I must firstly thank anyone who has helped put this issue together. Everyone who’s con-tributed have given up their time to put something together.

This has been an exciting journey - from the day I began working on the blog. Now, we have a full magazine, full of our thoughts, opinions and ideas. This is all about being able to show fashion, showcase new talent, and create some exposure to those who deserve it.

I have asked some bloggers to take part in the maga-zine. There has been a lot of debate lately over the blogger vs. journalist issue, and I think this was the perfect way to bridge the gap. I am a blogger turned journalist, turned editor. Anything is possible, and we should welcome everyone who wants to try their hand at writing - via paper or electronic form.

I was recently interviewed by a fellow blogger, who asked what I thought of the transition to electronic from paper, and I responded that it was ultimately so exciting - to discover a new blog is quite like reading an unfinished book, because every time you revisit it, there is a new page added to that blog’s story.

The magazine was created for you, please enjoy it.

Pamela Kingston

EDITOR

FRVCONTRIBUTORS

Editor: Pamela KingstonContributing writers: Pamela Kingston, Michael Kowalinski, Sarah Khan, Emme Hightower. Photography work: Geoffrey ChuahStylist: Samantha Denise

Special Thanks: Natascha Stolle, Katie Gallagher, Zakary Alexander le Stele, Simone Monè.

Cover shot: Cristiano Miretti

Contact: frontrowview@live.ie

• FashionPeopleDon’tLikeCameras-alookatR.J.Cutler’sTheSeptemberIssue

• TheUltimateQuestion:thewritervstheblogger

• Whatdoyoukeephoardedinyourmake-upbag?

• AlexanderWang:fashion’swonderboy

• Howtowear:Thisseason’splaysuits

• slick70’sstylehairinaninstant

contents

The Return of

Lipstick

FRESH FACE: KATE GALLAGHER

NataschaStolletalksfashionandinfluences

Cowboy Denim: how

to wear it

ThisSeason’sBestAccessories

Wonderboy Wang

Plus... Hiding out

Summer Brights Some of this season’s biggest and brightest pieces - wear with washed-out denim, sunglasses and a mojito for the perfect Summer outfit.

This Page:

JIL SANDER, England cotton-blend trench €1,340

MARC BY MARC JACOBS, Striped silk bustier top

€395

LANVIN, Patent-leather ballerina flats €330

JIMMY CHOO, Quiet patent-leather pumps €495

This Page:

TORY BURCH, Wrap Up leather sandals

€325

HALSTON HERITAGE, Asymmetric silk-satin top €273.41

NANCY GONZALEZ, Small crocodile clutch

€1,245

ACNE, Sensational silk-chiffon shorts €100

RETROSUN, Vintage Paloma Picasso

sunglasses €180.03

SUMMER BRIGHTS

This Page:

MATTHEW WILLIAMSON, Twill bubble skirt €440 BOTTEGA VENETA, Oversized cotton-blend dress €1,350

MARC BY MARC JACOBS, Handwritten script bangles €205

DKNY, Stamped leather clutch €155.20

LANVIN, Glass pearl grosgrain necklace €409.72

SUMMER BRIGHTS

Whats In Your Make-up Bag?

CHANEL

Cils A Cils - #20 Brun 6g/0.21oz

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GIVENCHYEyebrow Show Powdery Eyebrow Pencil BE

NEF

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GU

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KissKiss Lipstick - #520 Red Booster 3.5g/0.12oz

MARC BY MARC JACOBS

Animal print wash bag

Classic minimalism was what was on the cards for Au-tumn/Winter - but does your make-up bag reflect season trends, or classics? Are you a mascara and lipgloss girl? Or a brow gel and purple lashes lady?

Everyone has at least a few classics that they have in their make-up bag - the smart necessities that will always give you a glamorous glow when your in a rush. I always opt for a slick of mascara and a quick eyebrow pencilling - if in need of a quick sprucing.

I know that every once and a while, I’ll walk passed a make-up stand that has this seasons orange lipstick or deep red eyeshadow and think “wow, this is so Galliano” and I’ll end up buying it, and it will rot at the bottom of my make-up bag, because lets face it - sometimes make-up just isn’t practical - especially when it comes to gaudy colours/glitter/face tattoos!

I always find myself using the same few products time and time again - the classics. These are essentially, the most important things I have in my make-up bag, al-though they’re certainly not the only things in there.

Foundation is key - getting that glow right can make or break (sometimes out) how your complexion looks. Experi-ment with different types - liquid, mineral, powder - you name it, I’ve tried it - and find out what works best for you. Mascara and Liquid eyeliner are two of my other top es-sentials - I like to go for a bold black mascara, even when I know I shouldn’t, I love dramatic eyes.

Teamed with a slick of eyeliner, this can never really look dated. Best other beauty buys? A neutral lipgloss, bronzer, eyebrow pencil and white eyeliner all top my list - these all help to create a fresh, dewy look, which is perfect for everyday wear while not looking like you’ve put too much effort, which is always important too. Effortless classic chic - perfect for teaming with your minimal Celine trench come Winter.

Fashion’s latest wonder boy is taking the design world by storm.

Alexander Wang appeals to the masses - from the cool downtown girls who end up on the Sartorialist, to the model sitting backstage at the show, hugging his clothes tight, wishing she could keep it.

Wang is special in many ways - he came along at a time when fashion needed a new, powerful injection of youth and he did just that.

From grungy 90’s inspired looks to sexy mini-dresses, he knows what the fashion crowd wants and he delivers it with a skilled craftsmanship and a price tag which makes you feel exclusive when you finally save up enough to bag a pair of his lacy boots or one his studded Rocco bags,

which let’s face it, are the new IT bag.

He was 18 when he moved to New York to follow his dream of creating his own clothing line - he studied design at Parsons and also interned at Teen Vogue.

After just one year he launched his own collection of soft, masculine sweaters which made the fashion crowd everywhere stand to attention - his tailoring was excellent and the design, well quite simple, but very appealing - a move towards minimal, classic pieces helped the success of the sweater along.

Wang is in the midst of expansion - he now has a T col-lection which extends to both men and women, and he has also moved into creating menswear as part of his mainline label too recently.

It is clear why he is so pop-ular - his grungy approach to fashion has become model’s signature off duty style - from army jackets to washed out jeans, Wang has managed to bring new life, structure and tailoring to pieces which would, before be considered as passé.

There may be a queue for his leopard print wedges - and his stand-out bags might be on the arm of every celebrity in Holly-wood, but Wang will not just continue to churn out similar designs.

His Autumn/Winter 2010 collection showed his ma-turing skills and new ideas being born, which although were slightly rough, cer-tainly had big potential.

Wang is a once off creative, and someone who will continue to lead fashion for many years to come. He is a force behind the future and a reassuring nod to anyone worried about fashion’s future outlook.

Marchesa gown

Fashion, much like the truth, can benefit from creative embellishments. Four major detailing trends are emerging or continuing into this season: beading, embroidery, epau-lets, and sequins. Designers are proving they aren’t afraid to ignore the shift to minimalism by adorning their lines with such ornaments, taking basic style ideas and enhancing the beauty while creating signatures.There is a sense of luxury associated with detailing and embellishments. The appealing exclusivity and technical execution of haute couture seems less dauntingly elusive with designers appropriating a similar aesthetic to ready-to-wear collections.

One label that has become synonymous with exqui-site embellishments is Marchesa. Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig’s romantic gowns showcase the label’s emphasis on meticulous hand beading and embroidery. Even the flirty frocks of the secondary line, Notte by Marchesa, exhibit this rich detailing.

Oscar de la Renta-$890

Given the sense of throwback haute couture luxury, it’s no coin-cidence that Marchesa is a celeb-rity darling. Of course Marchesa isn’t the only label for spectacular beading and embroidery. Look no further than Oscar de la Renta for a gorgeous embroidered blouse or Alexander McQueen for a non-traditional tuxedo jacket detailed with shocking blue beading. Other designers including Proenza Schouler, Milly, Temperly Lon-don, Matthew Williamson, Anna Sui, Juicy Couture, and Haute Hip-pie are also embracing this trend.

Much like Marchesa, Balmain has seen embellishments become part of its signature. Thanks to designer Christophe Decarnin shoulder padded and epaulet-heavy mili-tary jackets and dresses, the em-phasized shoulder revitalized this French powerhouse while usher-ing in the current military trend

and proving that shoulders could be sexy, feminine, and yet an-drogynous all at the same time. Although, the notoriously expen-sive line isn’t the only way to get a fringed or chained epaulet fix. Retailers like H&M are featuring the military trend this season. Want more versatility? Check out Falconiere and illuminate more than one outfit with their detached epaulet.

ATTENTION TO DETAILSBa

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Sum

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201

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Alexander McQueen jacket-$2,995

Proe

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Scho

uler

-$2,

760

Balmain $6,450

Falconiere epaulet-$540

Sequins have long been employed to enhance clothing and accessories, bring-ing glamour to even the most elemental fashion. Alice + Olivia and Diane Von Furstenberg are taking basic t-shirt from functional to fabulous with sequin de-tailing. Designers are also using sequins to add color, texture, and dimension to their collections.

The metallic silver spray of sequins on a 3.1 Philip Lim creation juxtaposes the soft fabric and swishing pleats of the dress. The muted olive-tone crepe-silk of a Stella McCartney design gets a sun-burst of color from its sequin flowers. Labels like Preen are also incorporating sequins into their designs, coupling it with a huge trend for fall 2010: lace.

ATTENTION TO DETAILS

Alice + Olivia sequined top- $330

Diane Von Furstenberg sequin t-shirt-$225

Stella McCartney-$3,695Preen Dress-$2,545

3.1 Philip Lim sequined dress

Diane Von Furstenberg sequin t-shirt-$225

Clothing isn’t the only thing getting the embellishment treatment. Christian Louboutin heels sparkle with dia-mante, Louis Mariette headbands twinkle with swarovs-ki crystals, and Giuseppe Zanotti suede clutch shimmers with beading.- EMME HIGHTOWER

ATTENTION TO DETAILS

Christian Louboutin sandals-$1,995

Louis Mariette Headband-$280

Giuseppe Zanotti bead clutch-$1,360

Bijoux Heart hairband €686.56

Givenchy embroidered boots €1,190

“Fashion People Hate Cameras.”Paradoxical as this comment may seem, these were director RJ Cutler’s exact words about the filming of his critically acclaimed documentary, The September Issue.

The first documentary about the ins and outs of a major fashion magazine in creating its most important monthly issue, The September Issue has become a favorite among fashionistas for the way it portrays the internal struggles that go on at Vogue US.

Anyone in the fashion industry knows Anna Wintour, the editor of Vogue US, as one of the most powerful and influential women in fashion today. Much of the documentary’s entertain-ment comes from seeing Wintour casually rejecting, insulting, and ignoring the pitches of her co-workers – or shall we call them subordinates – whose jobs essentially boil down to making this Red Queen of fashion happy.

But what really drives the drama in this movie is the dynamic between Wintour and her right hand woman, creative director Grace Coddington. Coddington, who has been dealing with Wintour for over twenty years, knows how to handle the editor’s decisiveness – often misinterpreted as bitchiness – in a way that no one else in the office can.

But regardless of how stub-born Coddington may be, Wintour, as the editor in chief, always gets the last say in what goes to print. What keeps viewers watching the movie is seeing the de-jected frustration in Grace when Anna unapologetically cuts her best work from be-ing printed in the issue. It’s a relationship that mostly everyone can relate to, Cutler said.

Now if fashion people hate cameras, how did RJ Cutler manage to get all of this on film?

Making a documentary, es-pecially one like The Sep-tember Issue, can be tricky business. While fashion people may spend their days on the sets of photoshoots, it’s another matter entirely when they themselves are the focus of the camera’s lens.

It was a wonder that Cutler was even able to capture the relationship between Grace Coddington and Anna Wintour. According to Cutler, Cod-dington vehemently declared that she would not be a part of the documentary when she saw the cameras around the Vogue office for the first time. It took nearly a year for the director to gain her trust.

Wintour herself could have been, Cutler said, “an easy target.” The September Issue could have been a revealing mockery of Anna’s power and status in the fashion indus-try, which would have easily destroyed her reputation.

But according to Cutler, trust was the key to getting the story he wanted.

“It really is about being who you say you are,” he said. His intentions were not to bash Anna or Grace in the first place,

and it was important to build a basis of trust on that notion between him and the office.

As the months of filming went on, the dynamic between Coddington and Wintour became appar-ent. The relationship between the romantic, idealistic stylist and decisive, practical editor was something that no one had seen before – but definitely one that everyone can can relate to, Cutler said.

Grace is just as influ-ential in the fashion industry as Wintour; one editor at Vogue remarked to Cutler that when Grace gives up her position at the

magazine, the whole of the fashion world will change. But it was her tenuous relation-ship with Wintour that became the crux of the movie.

Another stunning moment in the movie was the interview with Wintour in which she remarks on the way her family mem-bers – many of whom also work in print media – react to her profession.

“They are very amused by what I do,” Wintour said in the movie. I’m sure most other fashioni-stas wondered how Cutler was able to keep that scene in the movie and keep his head at the same time!

It seems that he got the Ice Queen of fashion to thaw out a little bit, if only for the sake of the documentary.

ANNA WINTOUR & GRACE CODDINGTON

Sarah Khan

This Season’sBest Accessories

From Rick Owens to Miu Miu - make a splash with colourful, bold accessories.

Previous Page:3.1 PHILLIP LIM Classic Bralette bra €124.16

3.1 PHILLIP LIM Cheeky silk-blend briefs €105.53

MULBERRY Heart Zip leather purse €100

CHLOÉ Python bow belt €395

NANCY GONZALEZ Crocodile iPhone case €310

ALEXANDER WANG Brenda chain bag €831.84

RICK OWENS Black leather gladiator boots €1,148.45

FENDI Acrylic studded cuff €403.51

This Page:LANVIN Flower-embellished necklace €825.64

PAUL & JOE Stainless steel tiger watch €595.95

MIU MIU Bird-print satin wallet €329.01

MARNI Round-frame acetate sunglasses €310.39

How did you find London Fashion Week this year? Any particular high-lights that stood out to you?It was really hectic for me this season because I was designing 3 collec-tions at once (my own label, b store, and a capsule range for asos)! The highlight was the bstore presenta-tion for fashion week. I was kind of anonymous at the actual even as not everyone knew it was me who de-signed the womenwear collection, so when I overheard people react really positively and say that they loved this or that, I knew they meant it and I was really proud.

You grew up in Hawaii and Virginia - do you derive inspiration from either of these places when creating your designs?Yes, I love the simplicity of Hawai-ian dressing and I think it informs the way I dress. Simple, loose, easy shapes. And in virginia there is the real east coast preppy buttoned up style which I also adore, so I think it’s fair to say that my style is a com-bination of the two mixed with an english messy eccentricity.

What were the challenges of setting up your own label?Money. The challenge is always get-ting enough money to get things done how you want, rather that how you can afford. It’s soul destroying...

If you could dress anyone in the world, who would it be and why?I love Georgia Jagger, I can’t take my eyes off her whenever I see a photo of her. I would love to dress her.

You studied English Literature be-fore turning your hand to fashion. Are you happy with the change in direction that fashion brought into your life?

Natascha Stolle - Fashion’s freshest face talks fashion, influences and being mistaken for a hobo in Sainsbury’s.

I am, but I was always interested in fashion, even when I was doing my BA in English. I worked in the costume shop of the drama department making costumes for the univer-sity plays. Fashion wasn’t really an option for me in Charlottesville and the drama depart-ment was as close as I could get. I had to come to London to fulfill my dream.

What do you like to wear on a typical day?I’m actually a complete slob when I go to the studio, I think some of my interns are hor-rified when they first meet me. I was even shadowed by the security guard at my local Sainsbury’s recently because I’m sure he thought I was a homeless person. But when I go out, I always wear super high shoes and lipstick, so it kind of evens out in the end.

Do you believe that fashion helps shape a persons personality or their personality shapes their fashion choices?If someone’s personality is defined by what they wear, then I don’t think they have much of a personality in the first place. What you choose to wear should come from your personal-ity, not vice versa.

What is your favourite part of the design process? My favorite part is the beginning of the design process, before people start telling you why you can’t have what you want be-cause of money or time or minimum quantities, or all of the above. At the beginning, the ideas are pure and everything is still pos-sible and beautiful. It’s a constant exercise in compromise fighting to get the designs actually made on a small budget and with a small team.

Do you have a signature design? Slouchy tailoring and quirky prints. I do a version of an applique crocodile print each season, and also a googly eye print I’ve done a lot.

What is the most rewarding aspect of being a fashion designer? I love the people I get to work with and the freedom that comes with working with people who are your friends. I don’t know many jobs where we could get away with the kind of things we say in our studio, pure filth.

Any regrets so far? I regret not being born a rich kid.

What lies ahead for the Natascha Stolle label and for yourself as a designer? Hopefully weekends off!

Pamela Kingston

Suit UpHow to wear this season’s playsuits

Still unsure how to wear a playsuit? Here is four different playsuit outfits, complete with shoes and accessories, provided to inspire your playful side.

Denim is a huge trend this season, so why not wear it as a playsuit? Play the grungey card with the look, add some chunky, holey knitwear and some rock star heels, as well as some sunglasses to finish the look.

Take your que from Marc Jacobs and inject some sunshine with brights or-ange and blue (right). Keep accessories to a minimal and let the colours do the talking.

You could do worse then copycat Chloe’s minimal playsuit, just add heels and a chunky bracelet for the ultimate statement.

The final look shows off denim and florals together to create a great balance. Go feminine with the playsuit, and add a touch of masculinity for an updated look.

Topshop Acid Wash Playsuit £35.00

Jil Sander

D-frame acetate sunglasses

€291.64

Hervé Léger

Frida suede and cork sandals

€709

Alexander Wang

Lattice bobble oversized sweater

€639.41

Alexander Wang

Lattice bobble oversized sweater

€639.41

Topshop Nails in F

lash £5.00

MARC BY MARC JACOBS Stara silk-satin playsuit €325

Lanvin Happy snakeskin shoulder bag €1,350

Giuseppe Zanotti Suede peep-toe boots €515

SUIT UP

Lanvin

Amalia leather shoulder bag

€1,275

Chloé

Linen zip-front playsuit

€1,390.55

Yves Saint Laurent

Entrelacs gold-plated cuff

€658.03

Topshop HOSANNA Macrame Sandals £30.00

SUIT UP

Zimmermann

Chelsea scallop jumpsuit

€249.11

Topshop

Denim Biker Jacket

£45.00

Alexander Wang

Trish leather wedge mules

€578

Miu Miu

Canvas and leather tote

€870

CHANEL Aqualumiere Gloss

# 67 Diamond Rose 6ml/0.2oz

€27.50

SUIT UP

FRV Magazine is Looking for contributors. We aim to show off the best new talent, which means everything from models, designers, artists, reporters, writers and photographers.

If you’d like to get involved, or submit some work to the maga-zine, simply get in touch with us at frontrowview@live.ie.

Summer PicksA Mixed bag Of Summer Loves

PamelaKingston

ForthisSummerinspiredcollage,I’vegoneforsomeofthebest,stand-outpiecesoftheseason.Ok,sotheyprobablyallshouldn’tbeworninonego,butthesearesomeofthemostinterest-ing,quirkypiecesavailableatthemomentthathavecaughtmyeye.I’mreallyinlovewithAlexanderWangandProenzaSchoulerthisseason,sohaveincludedpiecesfrombothdesigners.IloveWang’sstate-mentshoesandbagsandhaveincludedoneofeach(leopardprintshoes,blackandwhitebag).I’malsoreallyexcitedbystatementsunglasses,sohaveincludedfourofmyfavouritepairsforsummer,includingsunniesbyLouisVuittonandAlexanderWang.

Iespeciallyliketheroundpairofsunglass-esbyErdem-althoughtheymightnotsuitmyface,theywilladdaquirkyedgetoasimpleoutfit.Thedenimplaysuitistheretomeetthisseason’sbiggesttrendcriteria-denimofcourse.ThetwobroochesbyYAZBUKEY(oneofKarlLagerfeld,oneofDavidBowie)aresokitschandadorable,andwillmakeanylookpop.Lanvin’saccessoriesaresimplyjaw-drop-pingthisseason,soI’veaddedaribbonnecklaceandatancolouredclutch.Myselectionisallaboutstatement,colourandconfidencetobeboldwithyourclothing.Individualityisamust.

Katie graduated from Rhode Island School of Design. She has since spent time at Anna Sui and THREEASFOUR. She also runs her own label, Katie Gallagher. She now lives in NYC.

Michael Kowalinski talks to the upcoming designer.

Your designs are a mixture of the sc-fi with the ultra feminine, combined with what appear to be elements of the past done in a modern way. How did this sensibil-ity come to you?

Everything I create comes from what I draw. I draw lots of line drawings to develop my ideas and then from there, try to create them three-dimensionally the best I can! I generally design things that I would want to be wearing myself.

What did you take away from your apprenticeship at Anna Sui?

This was my first experience with the indus-try itself here in NYC. I saw a lot during my time with Anna, including the process she uses for sample making, fabric sourcing, her showroom set up, etc. There’s a ton to absorb. She is a special designer because everything remains pretty much in her hands. She creates what she loves and it’s very evident every-where in her spaces.

Your references are always fantastical and mysterious. What was your design inspiration for Fall 2010?

It all began with a snowy, drippy landscape painting I did; initially to help me develop the color palette that I was imagining for the season.

What is exciting you right now?

German pickle plates. There is a German bar right by my apartment in Chinatown that-

serves the best pickle plates ever. They are full of pickled cucumbers, radishes, beets, and carrots that you can dip in mustard. Also, we’re treating a really new kind of leather right now. But then, pickle plates.

Whose head would you like to spend a day in?

I don’t care about that stuff. I’m fine in my own head. If I did have to pick a head in general, I’d say a focused artisan living in a far off country. Someone I don’t know yet, but is doing some special craft very perfectly.

The clothes are mature and have a singular vision. How do you feel you’re growing as a designer?

I’m growing in a bunch of different ways; there is so much to learn when you’re deal-ing with this field from a designer’s perspec-tive. Since I do most everything myself right now, I am forced to learn how to make better designs, and then pattern them properly and then figure out the best and right way to sew them. Also deal with buyers, production, PR, etc, etc. even casting my own models!

The spring collection was all black, a hard aesthetic mixed with your signature feminine touches. For fall, you featured colour. How will the label’s look evolve?

That will depend on the concept for each season. I do like all monochromatic looks. Instead of mixing color, I am more interested in mixing texture and creating secrets in each garment rather than dealing with prints or color combinations.

INTERVIEW WITH KATIE GALLAGHER

Besides the financial strain, what has been your big-gest obstacle as a young designer in New York?

Just that. Honestly, it’s a problem and it cre-ates limitations. Until its resolved there will be restrictions for the collections and the things I can produce.

What is femininity to you?

Ha! Femininity was my “concentration” in my senior year of high school AP studio art class. I guess I never really figured it out.

You’ve said you want to accentuate the female form with your designs. What is it about the female form that most interests you?

It’s our natural form. Why not make clothes that look right on it.

How does seeing the clothes through the eyes of an artist influence their design?

Clothing can be constructed more purpose - in general, clothing should essentially act as a medium for an idea.

What’s next for Katie Gallagher?

SS11. I’m already sketching it out!!

Michael Kowalinski

INTERVIEW WITH KATIE GALLAGHER

A mouth full of lipstick is a force to be reckoned with: teamed with bouncy blonde curls and some eye-stinging red lipstick, you are transformed into a sexy goddess. Your boss is suddenly struck with crippling fear, that guy suddenly gives you the eyes, and you can pull off that Lanvin cardigan that you’ve hidden in shame, because you never felt like you could wear it.Lipstick is making a comeback. We are (so I’ve heard at least) in the midst of a depressing recession, which means it’s time to pack away the bling and return to classic glamour. That of course means a return to the lipstick too. A powerful device - lipstick makes the wearer instantly empowered, and everyone surrounding you stands to attention. Those perfectly smooth, matt lips, covered in a deep smooth red. Lipstick sales have increased since the recession hit. Women are revert-ing back to the classics, the power pieces, that are feminine, yet com-manding. Tom Ford has led the lippie revolution, with the release of him long awaited lipstick collection. The perfectly pack-aged, crafted bullets are ready to be artfully placed onto your puckered up pout. The imprinted TF makes it look almost edible.

Lipstick isn’t just another make-up item. It has a history, a classiness attached that other make-up doesn’t quite have. The moment you put it on your lips, you are transformed into some-thing else. An elegant movie version of yourself that could start your own business and become successful in a flash - which is the solution to getting out of this whole recession thing anyway.

Pamela Kingston

The Return of Lipstick

COWBOY DenIM

D&g Spring/Summer 2010

Chloe Spring/Summer 2010

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI

Denim ankle cuff sandals

€490.42CHLOÉ

Skinny denim jeans

€308

Denim - best known as for it’s durabil-ity and easy-to- wear quality - is hav-ing a bit of a moment. The material has been reinvented for Spring/Summer this year, and everything goes, even a double dose. Cowboy chic, as seen at D&G is one of the best and easiest ways to rock this trend. Start off with a simple pair of denim cut-offs and simply add cowboy boots, with a lacy white top or, as D&G have done, a denim corset.

Denim gets an 80’s revamp by Swedish label Acne for Summer.Try acid washes and high-waisted to get this vintage

look, and add a leather element to take it up a notch. One of my favourite 80’s inspired piece for Summer is an acid wash cropped denim jacket. These look great worn casually over a simple tee, and can be teamed with darker denim without it looking like a denim overdose.

There is so much denim to choose from this season, including shoes - so this trend can be easily adapted into your ward-robe. When in doubt, go with well fitting denim jeans in a stand out shade.

Marc by ma

rc jacobs spring/summer 2010

D&g Spring/Summer 2010

SEE BY CHLOÉ

Chambray playsuit

€385

ACNE

Cut-off denim shorts

€120

ALEXANDER WANG

Slouchy leather shoulder

bag

€912.55

BALMAIN Faded denim jacket €2,673

COWBOY DENIM

DSQUARED2 sPring/Summer 2010

CITIZENS OF

HUMANITY

Graceland Hesher denim vest

€631.87

BURBERRY

Denim shirt

€180.03

ACNE Skin zip-back skinny jeans €160

MOU

Seagrass Circled

tall denim boots

€192.44

MATTHEW WILLIAMSON Chambray cotton jumpsuit €620

COWBOY DENIM

COLOUR TRENDS

COLOUR TRENDSChanel’s Nouvelle Vague nail polish is leading the colour revolution this season when it comes it cosmetics. Also buzzed up is Dior’s lace inspired collection which features real lace pieces and comes in vintage inspired silver casing. Topshop’s makeup line has also just been released in Europe, which means loads of trend inspired colours at bargain prices - from mink nails to golden highlighters, their new cosmetics line captures the lat-est beauty buzz perfectly.

DIOR Poudrier Dentelle Peach Lace

LAURA MERCIER

Eye Brow Pencil - Brunette

CHANEL

Soleil Tan De Chanel Bronzing Makeup Base 30g/1oz

CHANEL

Precision Gentle Eye Make Up Remover

100ml/3.3oz

COLOUR TRENDS

GIVENCHY

Skin Tonic Stretch Cream Foundation

SPF 25 - # 502 Lift Champagne 30ml/1oz

CHANEL Nouvelle Vague

Le Verns Nail Colour

#527

GUERLAIN

Terracotta Kabuki

Bronzing Powder Brush

CHANEL

4 Fleurs De Chanel

( Limited Edition ) - Feeries

SISLEY

Mascara Ultra Facil

# 11 Noir 8g/0.28oz

TOPSHOP Lip Stick in Rosa

CHANEL Nouvelle Vague

Le Verns Nail Colour

#527

CHANEL

4 Fleurs De Chanel

( Limited Edition ) - Feeries

Photographer - Geoffrey Chuah/www.gcphotography.net

Stylist - Samantha Denise/www.samanthadenise.com

Make-up and manicure - Vanessa Collins/www.vanessa-collins.com

Hair - Rachael Hyde@muse

Model - Chelsea Donalson@viviens

FRAGILE VISION

OPPOSITE:

STRUMMER leather dress

Stylist’s own bangles

THIS PAGE:

MATICEVSKI dress

Shoes from pelle.com.au

THIS PAGE:

COUNTRY ROAD singlet

AMERICAN APPAREL transparent skinny trousers

shoes as before

OPPOSITE:

STRUMMER organza shirt

Stylist’s own earrings

PROVOCATOR playsuit

ZARA wedges

COUNTRY ROAD belt

OPPOSITE PAGE:

SAME AS BEFORE

Is Fashion in a Depression? As we continue to mourn the presence of the extroverted designer Alexander Mc-Queen, who tragically took his life earlier this year, fashion is for once at a loss for words.Alexander’s death has left a bitter taste in the mouth of all those who think of fashion as merely just fun. It’s a reminder that fash-ion can be sometimes truly serious.

McQueen is not the only member of the fashion industry who has recently passed away. In the last few weeks, two different stories of models trying to take their own lives has come to the attention of the fashion industry.

Firstly, Ambrose Olsen, a male model who modelled for one of Armani’s well known campaigns commit suicide

in New York. Earlier on this week, French model Noemie Lenoir attempted suicide but was later resuscitated.

Fashion, like any other job, can have it’s pressures. The pressure to succeed is almost pal-pable within the industry, as competition is fierce, between models, designers, and even people who just work in the wood-work of all the hustle and bustle - those who just want a promotion or want to be recognised.

Even Alexander McQueen, who, on the surface appeared to have it all - an interna-tionally renowned label, a successful con-cession line, and an unstoppable creative genius, underneath felt troubled.

With such great pressure, the industry must find relief. In some ways it has, as de-signers are continuing to put a new empha-sis on the fun of their creations, rather then having a sombre message.

There is much need to celebrate the artistic creativity of the designers - to make them feel hopeful and positive about their future - not only so we can take the edge off their constant pressure, but so that fashion can be a truly enjoyable experience for every-one, from the designer to the wearer.

Like anything in life, when we feel at our lowest, we need to be reminded that the future is still waiting for us, and that our moment hasn’t passed us by. Without this

reminder, without that positively avail-able to override the negative thoughts, we can all suffer, and sink deep into the black.

Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel Resort collection is one such example of a designer hoping to make fash-ion fun, and to take the edge off of fash-ion’s black cloud. The show, which was held on one beautiful street in St Tropez was quite a spectical - speed-boats and motorbikes were utilized to create an element of excite-ment, a sort of cin-ematic performance, that left the viewer feeling upbeat and positive. This is what we need at present - something sweet to make us feel optimistic about fash-ion’s future. We can count of designers like Lagerfeld to just know what is needed and to produce something that is perfect for that moment in time.

We will never forget McQueen, but we can learn from him and celebrate his extraordinary ability to design some-thing magical, unexpected and pure.

THE SOUND

New Young Pony Club - The OptimistRelease date: 4th May 2010NewYoungPonyClub’sdebutalbumwassoinfectious,thatnoonebe-lievedtheycouldtopit.Therenewalbum,TheOptimist,isverysimilartotheirpreviousalbum.Ithasthesamehook,thesamerhythm-infact,it’snotverydifferentatall.

Thereisafewslightchangestoinstrumentsandbeats-butit’sstillrecognisablyNYPC.Thisnewalbumisasolidreleasebytheband.Leadsinger,TahitaBulmerprovidestheusualhoneysweet,silkysmoothvocals,justasflawlesslyasbefore,whiletherestofthebandspinstheusualdinontheirmachinery.Still,it’scatchy,althoughslightlyemo-tionless,butwhocares-it’spoppyandfresh.

Marina & The Diamonds - The Family Jewels Release date: 25th May 2010Marinaisanexceptionalsongstress.ShesoundsabitlikeEnya,GwenStefaniandprobablyabitofBritneySpears.Thisisawellcomposed,thoughslightlyimmaturelywrittenalbum-butyoucan’tcomplain,becauseit’sclearlyjustherownexpression,whichisadmirable.

Asforthesound-itisamixofinstrumentalwiththeoccasionalpop-ishdrum.ThiscombinesstunninglywithMarina’sVocalshowever,sotheendresultisnowherenearstale.Thestandouttracksinclude“Numb”and“HermitTheFrog”,aswellas“Obsessions”.Marinaisafreshface,andthisisraw,original,fun,thoughtprovoking,andemotive.

LauraMarling’sdebutalbumAlasICannotSwimwasstartlingmature,poignantandunexpected.Hersecondalbum,titledISpeakBecauseICan,showshowLauraisdevelopingmusi-cally.ItshowsawholenewlevelofmaturityashermusicalstylechangesintosomethingalmostBobDylan-esque,althoughsheholdsontothatvulnerabilitywhichwhatmakesherspecialinthefirstplace.

Thisispossiblyslightlyhardertogetintothenherfirstalbum,butthereiscertainlysomegems,suchasBlack-berryStoneandHopeInTheAir.WehaveyettoseethebestofLaura,andherthirdalbumwillprovetobeevenmorerefined,craftedandemotion-allyjerkingthenthisone.

Thesinglefromthealbum,Devil’sSpokeutilizessomenewbackgroundinstrumentsandshowsLaura’ssing-ingtechniquesvarysomewhat.Thiswasfarfrommyfavouritesongonthealbum-Lauraisatherbestwithasimpleguitarandherthoughs,asyouwillhearinRamblingManandmypersonalfavourite,BlackberryStone.Lauraistrulyexceptional.ShefailedEnglishwhileatschool,(sometimestheeducationalsystemreallyfails!)butsomehowmanagestowritesuchrich,inspiredlyrics.Herclassicvoicewilldeemheroneofthismillen-nium’smostprominentsinger/song-writers.

AtThe

Hideout Hiding

Out

ANU Rouched Silk Kaftan www.byanu.com,

KATE SYLVESTER Leggings www.katesylvester.com,

CONVERSE Chuck Tayor hi tops www.converse.com,

ILLIONAIRE Leather Choker www.illionaire.com.au,

ELKE KRAMER Bangle www.elkekramer.com

Outinthemidstofadankanddustyghost-town,theonlysoundaroundissomeoneelse’sfootsteps.Theleavesrustle,asthetem-peraturedrops.Thisistheperfectplacetohideout,ascapturedbyGeoffreyChuah.

Jumper by MINK PINK www.minkpink.com Leggings by KARLA SPETIC www.karlaspetic.com

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Ball Rings by SEEMA PUN www.seemapun.com

Bow Ring by GALA www.evhpr.com

Cube Ring by ELKE KRAMER www.elkekramer.com

Glasses by DITA www.ditaeyewear.com

Bracelet by ELKE KRAMER www.elkekramer.com

MASTER SLAVE Shirt

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KIRRILY JOHNSTON pants www.kirrilyjohnston.com

KIRRILY JOHNSTON pony boots

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MAKE BELIEVE bangle www.thisismakebelieve.com

SHIRT BY MASTER SLAVE www.masterslave.com.au

Pants by KIRRILY JOHNSTON www.kirrilyjohnston.com

Pony Boots by KIRRILY JOHNSTON www.kirrilyjohnston.com

Bangle by MAKE BELIEVE www.thisismakebelieve.com

Shirt by MASTER SLAVE

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trousers by KIRRILY JOHNSTON www.kirrilyjohnston.com

Pony Boots by KIRRILY JOHNSTON www.kirrilyjohnston.com

Bangle by MAKE BELIEVE www.thisismakebelieve.com

Jumper by LAWRENCE PASQUIER

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Pants by DIZINGOF

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Bow Necklace by GALA

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Jumper by LAWRENCE PASQUIER

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Pants by DIZINGOF

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Bow Necklace by GALA

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Leather Jacket by KIRRILY JOHNSTON

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Body Suit by THERESE RAWSTHORNE

www.thereserawsthorne.com

Velvet Leggings by KARLA SPETIC

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Skirt by SCANLAN & THEODORE

www.scanlanandtheodore.com.au

Beanie by TILKAH

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Boots by DIESEL

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Jumper by MINK PINK www.minkpink.com Leggings by KARLA SPETIC www.karlaspetic.com

Boots by BEAU COOPS www.beaucoops.com

Ball Rings by SEEMA PUN www.seemapun.com

Bow Ring by GALA www.evhpr.com

Cube Ring by ELKE KRAMER www.elkekramer.com

Glasses by DITA www.ditaeyewear.com

Bracelet by ELKE KRAMER www.elkekramer.com

Coat by MASTER SLAVE

www.masterslave.com.au

Rose Shirt by WORLD

www.worldbrand.co.nz Shorts by ELLERY

www.elleryland.com

Chuck Taylor hi tops by CONVERSE

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Ring by DIVA

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2BY LYN & TONY Visor, www.2lynandtony.com,

SARA PHILLIPS Knitted Dress, www.saraphillips.com.au,

ARABELLA RAMSEY Quilted Vest, www.arabellaramsey.com,

ELKE KRAMER Bangles, www.elkekramer.com,

MASTER SLAVE Boots, www.masterslave.com.au

2BY LYN & TONY Visor, www.2lynandtony.com,

SARA PHILLIPS Knitted Dress, www.saraphillips.com.au,

ARABELLA RAMSEY Quilted Vest, www.arabellaramsey.com,

ELKE KRAMER Bangles, www.elkekramer.com,

MASTER SLAVE Boots, www.masterslave.com.au

Dress by TONI MATICEVSKI www.tonimaticevski.com

Knitted Scarf by KIRRILY JOHNSTON www.kirrilyjohnston.com

Balls Scarf by ANU www.byanu.com

Bear Ears by MASTER SLAVE www.masterslave.com.au

Top by THERESE RAWSTHORNE

www.thereserawsthorne.com

Harem Pants by SEEMA PUN

www.seemapun.com

Fur Hat by ZAMBESI

www.zambesi.co.nz

Necklaces by KIRRILY JOHNSTON

www.kirrilyjohnston.com

Boots by KATE SYLVESTER

www.katesylvester.com

Top by THERESE RAWSTHORNE

www.thereserawsthorne.com

Harem Pants by SEEMA PUN

www.seemapun.com

Fur Hat by ZAMBESI

www.zambesi.co.nz

Necklaces by KIRRILY JOHNSTON

www.kirrilyjohnston.com

Boots by KATE SYLVESTER

www.katesylvester.com

Tux Shirt Jacket by ROMANCE WAS BORN

www.romancewasborn.com

Sheer Tights by DONT ASK AMANDA

www.generalpants.com.au

Boots by KATE SYLVESTER

www.katesylvester.com

Glasses by COLAB

www.colab.com.au

ANTIPODIUM cropped jumper www.antipodium.com

ELLERY leggings www.elleryland.com

2BY LYN & TONY necklace www.2lynandtony.com

BOSTON BABE boots www.flauntmarketing.com.au

Get Your Freak On Giles Deacon

Best known for his playful designs, British designer Giles deacon is a fashion force to be reckoned with. He began his career by graduating from Central Saint Martins in the same class as Alexander McQueen and Luella Bartley. He set off to garner his fashion knowledge by working at Bot-tega Veneta and Gucci for a short period of time, before setting up his own fashion house,

Giles in 2003. Since then, he’s also collaborated with high street retailer New Look, in which he released some lim-ited edition pieces for men and women.

Giles is now out on his own, working for his label Giles. Showing in Paris this Spring/Summer, he masterfully sent his models down the catwalks in pops of peach teamed with metallics and quirky sunglasses - not a moment of dullness.

He often challenges the conventional, using his signa-ture pop art style, which has made his clothes completely

untraditional. Style.com refers to his creations as such:

“His work is randomness incarnate. It can’t keep to any one message, or develop an intellectual thesis. If you’re looking for a point, he’ll never get to it.”

In 2009, he was won the French ANDAM Fashion Award’s Grand Prix, becoming the second designer ever to win the prize, Gareth Pugh has also won in 2008.

What lies ahead for Giles? Well, it will only get better. Giles is rumoured to be designing for Emanuel Ungaro - it is hoped that he will bring the house out of it’s cur-rent bad luck streak with his colourful offbeat designs.

- Pamela Kingston

Giles Timeline FRV takes a look at what Giles has done so far which has made him the success he is today.

2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010

Here is a look a Giles Deacon’s work for his own label, Giles. Starting from his Spring/Sum-mer 2005 collection, we reminisce on what Deacon has achieved in the span on his career so far - from the motorcycle helmets from his Spring/Summer 2009 collection, to the fur-ball dress which Vlada Roslyakova proudly displayed back in Spring 2007. Giles says he is inspired by the some of fashion’s most glamorous women such as Elsa Schiaparelli, Miuccia Prada and Coco Chanel.

2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010

GILES TIMELINE

Catching A Wave: 70’s Style Locks Make A Comeback

This season, 70’s waves have made a comeback - loose, lightly tousled hair is the go-to-look for a sophisticated casual hairdo, perfect for those who like to look effortless. This was seen on the runways for Spring/Summer, as shown off by the models at Chloé, Versace and Valentino, as well as Burberry Prorsum.

This is a simple look to achieve, and doesn’t take a whole load of products. To get gentle 70’s surf waves, simple add some of Bumble&Bumble’s surf spray to wet hair and allow to try.

This should give you a slight wave. It’s also important to give the look a little volume, so if your hair is generally flat, try a volumizing shampoo, like Tommy Guns Blueberry, Ginseng & Honey Conditioner For Hair That Lacks Volume.

To get a sleeker version of the trend, subtly straighten the kinks out of your hair with a hair straighter, or alternatively use Tangle Teezer Professional Detan-gling Brush. Then add a light gloss with a finisher.

To keep the whole hairdo in place, add some Tigi Love Peace & The Planet Free Your Mind Firm Hold Hair-spray, to keep it all together.

This hairstyle is all about sleek subtle hair with a bounce, so make sure not to use too much product, which might weight your hair down. Now all you have to worry about is what to wear.

Pamela Kingston

Tigi Love Peace & The Planet Free Your Mind Firm Hold Hairspray 250ml €12.44

bumble & bumble surf spray €15.50

Fudge Body Builder Shampoo 300ml €12.19

Tommy Guns Blueberry,

Ginseng & Honey

Conditioner 250ml

€6.25Tangle Teezer

Professional

Detangling Brush

€12.19

The Great Debate: The Writer Vs The Blogger

I have never really considered myself a “blog-ger” - I’m no Tavi Gevinson, I’m older (but look younger then her in her granny getups). I would consider myself more of an e-writer. I love the thought of pen to paper - it’s so romantic, idealist, like Emily Bronte sitting in front of the fire, dipping her quill in ink and slowly cutting each word into a harsh, card-boardy paper. I first started out as a freelance blogger however, writing for a celebrity gossip blog, and when that wasn’t enough, I created my own fashion blog.

I do believe that blogging is fun, exciting and educational, and it can really open the door to new talents, and to new ideas. It makes every good blog like a new book, and as you read it page by page, you become more enwrapped in where it’s going - almost, just almost like an authentic read, like that dusty paper smell filling your nostrils - it leaves you with new thoughts born.

It’s exciting to see blogs, especially ones based on fashion, because you can look at style and ideas from all over the world,

“like that dusty paper

smell fill-ing your nostrils “

without having to pay a cent for some badly put together Tokyo street style book. It’s real, and engulfing.

I understand why the people of Vogue were at first sceptical

of the new generation of bloggers. If I was an established writer, who had worked truly hard for my front row seat at fashion week,

I wouldn’t want some random ten-year-old with a big hair band taking my seat either. Blogs don’t have quality control - and some are truly awful attempts at fashion writing. One I stumbled upon recently, which is quite a high-ranking blog (one of the biggest in Ireland I believe) had several distinct mis-takes about different eras of fashion, as well as several other elements of advice that they were dishing out to their readers.

On the plus side, blogs can be a learning experience. As a blogger, my mission is to entertain, and then to inform. Once the hype of fashion blogging has died off, order will fall back into line - and those who are truly good at what they do, will be seen just as that - the decent, hard-working, knowledgeable person, who worked hard to get their seat. Until then, we can only work at putting that musky novel smell into our blogs, and I’ll sit a few rows back, so I don’t annoy Anna Wintour.

- Pamela Kingston

Glamourremix

Dressed head-to-toe in clothing by the upcoming label SIMON CRACKER, old school glamour gets a re-take.

Styling: Alice Manfroni

Photography: Cristiano Miretti

Make-up and Hairstyling: Elisa Rampi

Assistant: Isabella Poggi

Model: Alissa Kravchenko

At 2morrow Agency, Milan

Clothes by: Simon Cracker,

Fall/Winter 2010

simoncracker.blogspot.com

Zakary Alexandr le Stele

Internationalist fashion artist Zakary Alexandr le Stele refuses to draw the line between fashion and art “Art is expression, art is emotion, art is visionary ideas and thoughts. What-ever ticks these boxes is by definition for me, art. Regardless of mediums”. A former student of political science, interior design, fashion and visual art, Le Stele draws inspiration from a wealth of disparate sources, and in FRV’s eyes is poised to achieve big things. Be sure to catch his next collection.

We are lucky enough to have a collection of his images, shown on the next few pages.

THE CANVAS

Birth

Red Teeth

A Portrait of St. Francis Via Arcimboldo or FA

A Portrait of St. Francis Via Arcimboldo or FA

Spinning Psychedelic Sunflowers of Nude Red Dwarves

©FRV Magazine 2010 - All text may not be re-used unless requested beforehand. Contact

frontrowview@live.ie. All Images used are property of their individual owners.