Esquire Fmt

UNIVERSITY OF DHAKA

REPORT ON

16TH JUNE TO 16TH AUGUST- 2006 INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT

WITH Esquire knit Composite Ltd.

Kanchpur, Narayanganj.

SUPERVISING TEACHER

SHAH ALIMUZZAMAN (BELAL)ASST. PRPFESSOR (TECH)

COLLEGE OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGYTEJGAON, DHAKA-1208

SUBMITTED BYMD Jahidul Hoque Majumder.

EXAM. ROLL - 110REG. NO - 2504

SESSION -2001-2002

COLLEGE OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGYTEJGAON, DHAKA.

1

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

College of Textile Technology has given me the opportunity to perform the industrial attachment with Esquire knit Composite Ltd.

I am grateful to Dr. N.C.Sutradhar, the principal of the college for giving me the opportunity to accomplish the attachment.

Special thanks go to my supervising teacher MASUD AHMED, without whose help it would not have possible to complete the training successfully.

May I also take the opportunity to express my sincerest gratitude to Esquire knit Composite Ltd.. management, and administration & personnel for their kind co-operation. Above all, I would like to acknowledge my deep debt to all teachers of our college and especially of Fabric Manufacturing Technology department for their kind inspiration and help, which remain as the backdrop of all my efforts.

Finally, I would like to acknowledge that I remain responsible for the inadequacies and errors, which doubtless remain.

2

CONTENTChapter No.

Topics Contents Page No.

Chapter-I Project Description Name, Type, Year of establishment, Location, Address, Sponsors, Product mix, Annual production capacity, Project cost, History of the project development, Different Departments, Physical infrastructure, Remarks.

1-2

Chapter-II Man power Management

Organ gram of man power-1.Administration2.Production3.MaintenanceManagement system, Shift change, Responsibilities of production officer, Job description of the production officer, Job description of the Sr. production officer

3-4

Chapter-III Machine Description

No. of the M/C, Make, Brand name, Main specification, Machinery layout plan, List of machinery, Remarks.

5-12

Chapter-IV Raw materials Types, Price, Source, Annual requirement, Remarks.

13-14

Chapter-V Production planning sequence & operation

Production parameters, Description of the production process, Daily production report, Monthly avg. production, Production flow chart, Recipe, Monthly efficiency, Remarks.

15-29

Chapter-VI Quality assurance Quality assurance procedure, List of equipments, Quality standard, Quality report, Remarks

30-33

3

Chapter No. Topics Contents Page No.

Chapter-VII Maintenance Maintenance of machinery, Routine, Manpower set up for maintenance, Maintenance procedure, Maintenance tools/equipments & their function, Remarks,

34-36

Chapter-VIII Utility services Utility facility available, Capacity & other technical details, Source of utility, Cost of different utilities, Remarks.

37-39

Chapter-IX Store & inventorycontrol

Inventory system of raw material, Spares, Finished goods, others, Remarks.

40-42

Chapter-X Cost analysis Price of the product, Cost of the product, Remarks

43-45

Chapter-XI Marketing activities

Consumer of the product, product level, package size & level, Local market, Importing countries, Manpower, Marketing strategy, Duties & responsibilities of marketing officer, Remarks.

46

Chapter-XII Reya Sweater (Pvt.) Ltd.

47-60

Chapter-XIII Conclusion 61

4

INTRODUCTION

Industrial attachment is an essential part of 4-years B.Sc. in Textile Technology course of College of Textile Technology under University of Dhaka. I had the opportunity to perform the industrial attachment with Esquire knit Composite Ltd. During 60 days long attachment, I studies the man, m/c material expects of the circular knitting section, quality control section, planning section grey fabric inspection section and finished fabric inspection section of the mill. According to my studies there I have prepared the following report and would like to present.

5

CHAPTER-I

PROJECT DESCRIPTION

6

Esquire Knit Composite Ltd. an 100% export oriented composite knit textile unit established with the commitment to care the Global needs for knit and casual clothing. The project has employed the State-of-Art technology in its very pieces of investments. Aiming at the context of the changing Global demand pattern, international environment on trade specially the withdrawal of quota system and GSP and the availability of craftsmanship in the country, the project encompassed the knitting, dyeing and processing of fabrics and ready-made Garments production to be available from one stop service.

The project is established in 1993, but the manpower engaged in the projects to carry out the day to day business are all highly skilled, purely professional, vastly experienced. The unique combination of organized Managerial and Technical term in one hand and latest, advanced and balanced technology on the other hand made the project one of the top to be referred in this field in the country. The best use of continuous development of Human Resources by providing them International Standard Environment and equal opportunity is the keys for achieving comprehensive competence in all the level Organizational Hierarchy.

Esquire Knit Composite Ltd. has been established with the objective and vision to cater the needs of 21st century of world wide knit apparels markets from one stop service being committed to One-time Delivery, Quality Assurance, Price Affordability and Social Accountability.

The project is located in Kanchpur, Sonargaon under the district of Narayangonj, about 15 km distance from Motijheel commercial aria. A well developed Road Communication is there to reach the factory from Dhaka City. The head office of the project is Located in the heart of Dhaka City in Tejgoan Industrial Area.

ESQUIRE KNIT COMPOSITE LTD.AT GLANCE Name of the project: Esquire knit Composite Ltd. Type: Composite knit fabrics & garments (with dyeing & finishing) mill. (100% export oriented industry). Status: Group of company ltd. Year of establishment: 1993. Address: Factory: Kanchpur, Sonargaon

Narayangonj. Tel: 0291129396

Fax: 88-02-8122181 Corporate office: 30, Shaheed Tajuddin Ahmed Sharani, Tejgoan Industrial Area, Dhaka -1208. Sponsors: ESQUIRE GROUP of company LTD...

7

PRODUCT MIX: a) Knitted grey fabrics : Plain single jersey, Heavy Jersey, Polo Pique, Lacoste, Engineering Strip, Rib &Interlock double jersey , Drop needle, 2/3 Thread fleece(Brushed/ Un-brushed), Collar & cuff etc. 100% cotton, 01% viscose + 99% cotton, 15% viscose + 85% cotton, 10% viscose + 90% cotton, 30% viscose + 70% cotton, 50% viscose + 50% cotton b) Knit Garments: T-shirt, Polo shirt, Sweat shirt, Golf shirt, Cardigan, Jogging suit, Short/Trouser, Legging, Fashion dress & Children wears etc.

ANNUAL PRODUCTION CAPACITY: Production capacity: 8 tons/day (Knitting). Production actual: 7 tons/day Production capacity: 16 tons/day (Dyeing). Actual production: 12 tons/day Final product name: T-Shirts, Polo Shirts, Ladies Wear, Sports Wear, Tank Tops, Kids Wear. Different departments: # Knitting Department # Dyeing & Finishing Department # Garments Department # Planning Department # Account & Commercial Department. # Admin Department.

# Maintenance Department

REMARKS:

Esquire knit Composite Ltd.. is a member of Esquire Group of Companies, a leading house of Industries & Commerce in Bangladesh. It contained Esquire Electronics, Esquire Knit Composite, Esquire Knitwear, Esquire Dyeing Inds, Esquire sourcing, MMH Textiles, Fashion Paradise Ltd.

8

CHAPTER –II

MAN-POWER MANAGEMENT

9

MAN-POWER ORGANOGRAM OF ADMISISTRATION

Chairman ↓

Managing Director ↓ Director ↓ General Manager ↓ A. General Manager

MANPOWER ORGANOGRAM OF PRODUCTION

Knitting manager Dyeing manager Garments manager ↓ ↓ ↓

Assistant manager Assistant manager Prod. Manager ↓ ↓ ↓

Sr. prod. Officer Sr. prod.Officer A.P. Manager ↓ ↓ prod. Officer Prod. Officer Incharge ↓ ↓ ↓ Fitterman Supervisor Supervisor ↓ ↓ ↓ Supervisor Operator Line chief

↓ ↓ ↓Operator Helper Operator

↓ ↓Helper worker

10

RESPONSIBILITIES OF PRODUCTION OFFICER: From getting an order of upper level all responsibilities are on the production officers. They work with a troop of operators, helpers, fitters etc. to finish the production in due time. In the meantime production officers bear all hazards, problems. They have to explain to the manager for any type of production hamper. So, all production activities and its success depend on the production officers. JOB DESCRIPTION:

SENIOR PRODUCTION OFFICER: In a knitting factory a senior production officer plays a great role in production and man power management who are production related. Here we enlist the duties of senior production officer:

1) Follow up knitting production,2) Regular observation of knitting floor, 3) Prepare knitting order status regularly,4) Maintain the quality of the product,5) To help the senior prod. Officer & co-operate with others for fulfilling the

required destination.

PRODUCTION OFFICER: Production officer is the right hand of senior production officer and he is directly related with production manpower and informs senior production officer time to time. Here are his listed duties:-

1) Follow up overall knitting production,2) Decide every m/c utilization during production,3) Recruit new labor, 4) To inform the authority on the overall knitting prod. and make it financial

profitable,5) Regular m/c maintenance,6) Maintain sub-contract orders,7) Help knitting manager & also guide the junior officers of the section, etc.

REMARKS: Production runs with the help of mechanical fitters. For any kind of mechanical fault of any machine they fix and work under technical in-charge. Production officers’ takes account of daily production by running after the two supervisors and workers so on.

11

Chapter-III

Machine Description

12

Process definition: Knitting is the interlocking or interlooping of one or more yarns through a series of loop. The length wise columns of stitches, corresponding to the warp in woven fabrics, are called WALES, the cross wise rows of stitches, corresponding to the filling in fabrics are known as COURSES. Filling knits (weft knit) are those fabrics in which the courses are composed of a single strand of yarns, while warp knits are those in which the Wales are composed of single strands of yarns. Gauge corresponds to the yarn count in a knitted fabric, and is defined as the number of needles or yarns in ½ inches of the fabrics. Higher the gauge, the more compact and fine the fabrics.

Process requirements: In Esquire Knit Composite Ltd. two types of machines are used for producing knitted fabrics. These are:- 1) Circular knitting machine (Single& Double Jersey Machine). 2) Flat knitting Machine (Cuff & Collar).

MACHINE AT A GLANCE:

M/C TYPE M/C NAME TOTAL M/C NO.

CIRCULARSINGLE JERSEY 18

INTERLOCK 02RIB 11

3-THREAD FLEECE 03RIB JACKARD 01S/J JACKARD 01

AUTO STRIPER 01FLAT CUFF & COLLAR 21

13

SPECIFICATION OF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE

Single Jersey M/C:

M/CDia

(Inch)

M/CGaug

e

M/CModel

NO OFFeeder

NO OFNeedle

M/CSPEC.

NO OF

M/CORGIN

15 24 JOHN/C 45 1140 S/J 1 ORIZIO(Italy)17 24 JOHN/C 51 1272 S/J 1 ORIZIO(Italy)19 24 JOHN/C 57 1440 S/J 1 ORIZIO(Italy)20 24 JO/5 48 1520 S/J 1 ORIZIO(Italy)22 24 JO/5 52 1680 S/J 3 ORIZIO(Italy)24 24 JO5/1 56 1860 S/J 5 ORIZIO(Italy)26 20/24 JOHN/A 84 1920 3-Thread Fleece 1 ORIZIO(Italy)26 24 JOHN/C 87 1920 S/J 1 ORIZIO(Italy)30 24 JOHN/C 90 2232 S/J 1 ORIZIO(Italy)30 24 MJM/C 72 2232 S/J jacard 1 ORIZIO(Italy)30 24 JBE/C 44 2220 Eng Stripper 1 ORIZIO(Italy)19 24 JBE/C 57 1440 S/J 1 FUKUHARA(Japan)20 24 DXC-3S 60 1500 S/J 1 FUKUHARA(Japan)26 24/28 DXC-3S 78 1932 S/J 1 FUKUHARA(Japan)30 24/28 VXC-3S 90 2268 S/J 1 FUKUHARA(Japan)30 20 FOHN/C 90 2288 3-Thread Fleece 2 ORIZIO(Italy)

Rib & Interlock M/C:

M/CDia (Inch)

M/CGauge

M/CModel

NO OFFeeder

NO OFNeedle

M/CSPEC.

NO OFM/C ORGIN

30 18 CMO/4A 60 1680 Rib/in 1 ORIZIO(Italy)30 18 CMO/AN 60 1630 Rib/in 3 ORIZIO(Italy)30 20 CMO/AN 60 1872 Rib/in 2 ORIZIO(Italy)36 18 CMO/AN 72 1920 Rib/in 1 ORIZIO(Italy)34 20 CO5N 82 2100 Rib/in 1 ORIZIO(Italy)30 20 MJD/C 72 1872 Rib/Jac 1 ORIZIO(Italy)30 18/22 V-8ER22 56 1680 Rib/in 1 FUKUHARA(Japan)30 20 V-8ER22 56 1872 Rib/in 1 FUKUHARA(Japan)34 20 V-8ER22 60 2136 Rib/in 1 FUKUHARA(Japan)34 24 C1/C 108 2544 Interlock 2 ORIZIO(Italy)

Flat Knitting M/C:

M/C Name Gauge Bed(Inch) Model No No of m/c Orign

Flying hourse 14 42 FH2 6 THAIWANFlying hourse 14 68 FH2 4 THAIWAN

Stoll 14 84 CMT-211 6 GERMANShima Seiki 14 52 SFF-152 5 JAPAN

14

LAY-OUT PLAN OF KNITTING UNITE 1

M/c. Gauge – needle/inch (varies according to diameter) Needle Type – Latch Needle bed type – Single cylinder, Double cylinder, Cylinder &

Dial long or short needles for cylinder and dial.1. English system – Where the cams and yarns strands revolve by needle

and fabric take down is stationary.2 American system – Where the needles and fabric take down revolves

by cams and yarn strands are stationary.

15

DOOR

OFFICE ROOM

FLAT BED M/C

2 1

19

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

CIRCULAR KNITTING UNIT- 2 & FLAT KNITTING UNIT

16

25

26

27

28

29

20

21

22

23

24

S

N

WE

CIRCULAR KNITTING UNITE- 3

THE PROPERTIES OF RB FABRICS AND SINGLE JERSEY OR

17

37

30

31

35

36

32

33

34

S

N

WE

PLAIN FABRIC AND MACHINE

Plain fabric and m/c Rib fabric and m/c1. Face side and Back side of fabric are different

1. Face side and Backside of fabric are same.

2. Less expensive 2. Expensive3. Lighter fabric 3. Heavier fabric.4. Produce by S/J m/c. 4. Produce by Double Jersey m/c.5. The m/c. contains no Dial. 5. The m/c. contains Dial.6. The m/c. contains Sinker 6. The m/c. contains no Sinker7. The m/c. contains one set of needle 7. The m/c. contains two set of needle8. Extensibility:

a) Length wise – 10 to 20%b) Width wise – 30 to 40%

8. Extensibility:c) Length wise – 50 to 80% (for 11

rib)d) Width wise – 30 to 45% (for 11

rib)9. Thickness & Warmth: Thicker and wormier than plain woven made from same yarn.

9. Thickness & Warmth: Much thicker and wormier than plain woven made from same yarn.

10. Curling: Tendency to curl

10. Curling: No tendency to curl

11. End use: Ladies stocking, fine cardigan, men and ladies dresses, sweater etc.

11. End use: Socks, cuffs, warm outerwear, under wear etc.

18

IMPORTANT PARTS PER MACHINE:

Name of parts Number per machineMPF Magnet 90Knot catcher 90

Eye pot 90Hose pipe 02

Needle fault detector 15Oil nozzle 21Oil pipe 21

Air flashing nozzle 300Air flashing pipe 30

Fabric detector 02Main switch 01

Fabric light 01Take down light 02

Oil & air pressure 02 IMOPORTANT EQUIPMENT OF CIRCULAR KNITTING M/C: 1. START/STOP/INCH BUTTONS: Complete set of easily accessible start/stop/inch buttons at top in each leg. 2. RATCHET LEVER:

Permit hand movement of the M/C. 3. AUTO STOP MOTION:

Automatic three stages 24v yarn motion, positive feed tapes & knitting zone. Indicator lamps are on individual stop motions & on the main control panel. While the yarn is broken we can find the location which is broken as well as to repair, meanwhile the motor can brake and stop operation at once to keep the security of M/C.

4. FREE STANDING SIDE CREEL:With an active reserve package for each feed.

5. AUTO–COUNTER Two shift revolution with display counter with predetermined stop, to settle freely the weight or yardage of fabric. 6. VARIABLE SPEED DRIVE WITH M/C BRAKE:

Transistor inverter provided for free controlled, the process of “V.s. motor-drive” from slow operation to normal operation is quite & fast brake to prevent damages in case of needles or yarn breakage. 7. FABRIC TAKE-UP SYSTEM: With variable speed control by a belt drive set can be adjusted the speed for different course of fabric-constant and uniform fabric tension.

19

8. SAFETY GUARD SWITCH: Machine cannot be started with guards open; this guard have reinforced fiberglass window for easy fabric inspection.

9. AUTO LUBRICATION: The automatic central pressurized oil sprayer can be adjusted at cycling time and quantity to make cylinder, dial, sinker ring’s cam, needles and sinkers lubricated enough, besides it has the function cooling and clearing.

10. AUTO-LINE REMOVAL SYSTEMS: Three fans on each rotating arm for clearing off any dust of creel and knitting zone.

STUDY ON AUTO STRIPER MACHINE: This is one kind of single jersey machine. This has 48 feeders and each feeder contains four fingers and each finger receives different color of yarn according to design of stripe. So we can use 192 different types of yarn in this machine. We can produce horizontal stripe of fabric in this machine and any repeat size is possible to produce. At first program is input in the control unit of the machine according to fabric design. The stripe of the fabric is done by mechanical selection of yarn by the machine and for this reason it is also called engineering striper.

REMARKS: Esquire Knit Composite Ltd. is a well planed factory. Every thing which is required for good working condition is present here. But only influent treatment plan is not available which is harmful for the environment.

20

CHAPTER-IV

RAW MATERIALS

21

In knitting section, for knitting fabrics only yarn is used as raw materials. There are different types of yarns are used as raw materials in this factory. These are – 1. Cotton yarn: (A).Combed. (B).Carded. 2. Polyester yarn: (A). Normal. (B).Micro. 3. CVC. 4. Grey mélange. 5. Enther mélange. 6. Spandex (Lycra). 7. TC 8. PC 9. Mixed melange 9. Different types of colored yarns for Auto-striper.

PRICE OF RAW MATERIALS: Price of yarn varies mill to mill and as different count. Here, we collect a price sheet of overall price for all the spinning mills of home and abroad of different count from merchandizing section: PRICE AND SOURCE OF RAW MATERIALS:

Yarn Types. Yarn Count Source of Yarn Price of Yarn100% Cotton, Combed. 40/s Shinha Tex $ 3.55/kg100% Cotton, Carded. 40/s Paradise $ 2.90/kg100%Cotton, Carded. 34/s PrimeTex $ 2.70/kg100% Cotton, Carded. 32/s Rajstan (India) $ 2.56/kg100%Cotton, Combed 30/s Pitisun (India) $ 3.00/kg100% Cotton, Carded. 26/s JK Tex $ 2.45/kg100%Cotton, Combed 20/s Padma Tex $ 2.90/kg

Grey mélange(85% Cotton +15% viscose)

34/s Jamuna Tex $ 3.05/kg

Grey mélange (”) 26/s Shamim Tex $ 2.85/kgSpandex ( Lycra) 20/d Korea,Chine&Taiwan $ 08-18/kg

ANNUAL REQUIREMENT: This factory required 2000 to 2500 tons yarn per year.

REMARKS: Esquire Knit Composite is a big buyer of local spinning mills. In this factory maximum raw materials are collect from local Spinning Mills and it is very beneficial for our economy. This factory collects Spandex yarn from foreign country.

22

CHAPTER-V

PRODUCTION PLANNING, SEQUENCE & OPERATION

23

Machine Diameter. Machine rpm (revolution per minute); No. of feeds or feeders in use; Machine Gauge; Count of yarn; Required time (M/C running time); Machine running efficiency.

DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTION PROCESS: In every mill, there maintains a sequences in production processing. It is also followed in this mill where I was in industrial attachment. The process sequences are in list below: 1) Firstly, knitting manager gets a production sheet from merchandisers as accordance as consumer requirements. Then he informs or orders senior production officer about it.

2) Senior production officer informs technical in charge and knows about m/c in which the production will be running.

3) Technical in charge calls for leader of mechanical fitter troops, they two take decision about m/c for production considering m/c condition, production capacity, maintenance complexity etc.

4) Production officer with experienced mechanical fitter adjusts required stitch length and grey GSM (gram per square meter) for required final GSM.

5) Supervisor check daily production regularity and make operators conscious about finishing in due time.

6) Operators operate machine in highly attention as if there were no faults in the fabrics. If he thinks or sure about any fabric fault, then he call for mechanical fitter in duty. Mechanical fitter then fixes it if he can or he informs technical in-charge. He then comes in spot.

7) After required production and final inspection in 4-point system, they are sent in dyeing section.

24

PRODUCTION FLOW-CHARTS:

Executive director takes order from Buyer | Merchandiser estimates total amount of yarn of production | Knitting manager gets production order sheet | Senior Production Officer ordered by K.M. and orders Production officer and Technical in-charge. | Production officer fixes up stitch length and GSM With mechanical fitter. | Definite operator operates machine in his full conscious and Attention. | Mechanical fitter fixes machine if there is any m/c fault. | Supervisors keep daily production report and assure m/c is OK. | Fabric roll is checked by a troop of inspectors in inspection unit and weighted. | Final product to the required amount is delivered to dyeing unit.

MONTHLY EFFICIENCY:

Daily production – 6000 kg. Approx. Daily production capacity – 8000 kg. approx. So, monthly production – 6000 X 30 kg. Monthly production capacity – 8000 X 30 kg.

25

COUNT OF YARN FOR SPECIFIED FINISHED G.S.M: FOR SINGLE JERSEY

Finish G.S.M. Count (Ne)140 30/s160 26/s180 24/s200 20/s220 18/s

FOR DOUBLE JERSEY (RIB)Machine Dia 30” 18GG

Finish G.S.M. Count (Ne)180 34/s

190-200 30/s220 28/s240 24/s260 20/s

FOR DOUBLE JERSEY (INTER LOCK)Machine Dia 34” 24GG

Finish G.S.M. Count (Ne)180 40/s200 40/s220 34/s240 30/s260 30/s

26

NECESSARY INFORMATION

1. G.S.M.:

It is technical term that indicates the weight of the fabric per square meter.

2. Changing of G.S.M.: The GSM of the fabric is change by altering the position of the tension pulley. If pulley moves towards the positive direction then the GSM is decrease and in the reverse direction GSM will increase.

3. Points that should consider in case of g.s.m. changing:

i) VDQ (Variable Dia. Quality Control) pulley diameter.ii) Yarn count. iii) M/C gauge.iv) Cam positionv) Take up motion

4. Factors that should be considered for changing of fabric design on:

i) Cam arrangement changing.ii) Needle butt setting & needle dropping.iii) Using of different colors in selected feeder.iv) Using of jacquard mechanism.v) Size of the loop shape

5. Recommendable points of a buyer:

i) Diameter of the fabric ii) Design of the fabriciii) GSM of the fabriciv) Total wt. of the fabricv) Yarn count vi) Types of yarnvii) Color of the fabricviii) Finishing of fabric.ix) Handling & fastness property.

27

6. Gauge numbers that are usually seen in different m/c:1. Incase of single jersey 24 gauge machine used in this mill. 2. Incase of rib m/c. 18 & 20 G are normally used. But incase of improved quality yarn 22 G M/s are used in European country.3. Interlock m/c is normally found 20, 24,28etc. Gauges.

WORKING PARTICULARS

1. Working hours: Two shift each of 12 hours.

# M/c cleaning and maintenance at the time of shift running # M/c stoppage & cooling during shift changing for half an hour.

2. Type of fabric produced:

Single Jersey, Single polo pique, Double PK, Single lacoste, Double lacoste, rib (1X1, 2X1, 2X2, 4X4, 8X8), Interlock, fleece and many others designed fabrics.

3. Causes of Needle breaks: a. Irregularities in yarn (Thick place, neps & slubs) b. Faulty needle latch. c. Dirty machine condition. d. Needle trick jamming. e. Worn out needle trick. f. High yarn tension.

g. Improper lubricationh. Complexity of designi. Use of more yarn in a feederj. Negligence of operator k. Wrong selection of machine gauge

Remedies: a. Proper lubrication & cleaning of machine b. Involvement of automation system c. Application of schedule maintenance d. Proper yarn & tension setting

e. Using of fault free yarn (high quality combed yarn) f. Extra care during producing of complex design g. Skill ness & awareness of operator h. Correct selection of machine gauge for a specific fabric

4. Adjusting points of the knitting machine:

28

a) Feeder to needle (horizontal distance, 1 to 2 sinker thickness) b) Feeder to needle (vertical distance, by feeder adjustment or by dia height adjustment) c) Dial to Cylinder distance. d) Sinker groove to Cylinder groove. e) Tension and loop length.(VDQ pulley diameter Adjustment) f) Yarn tension adjustment (Tension control knob on cam box) g) Adjustable speed in motor driving shaft. h) Change pinion in take up roller to perform tension.

5. Auto stop motion in knitting machine:

a) Gate open b) Needle breakage c) Motor drive fault d) Yarn breakage both e) Fabric cut & falls down. f) Oil & pressure air problem. g) Completion of selected target. h) Photo electric cell i) Take up problem.

METHODS OF INCREASING PRODUCTION:

By the following methods the production can be increased –

1. By increasing m/c speed:Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production

will be increased.

2. By increasing the number of feeder:If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the

number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time.

3. By using machine of higher gauge:The more the machine gauge, the more the production is. So by using machine of

higher gauge production can be increased.

4. By imposing automation in the m/c: a) Quick starting & stopping for efficient driving system. b) Automatic m/c lubrication system for smoother operation.

29

c) Photo electric fabric fault detector.

5. By imposing other developments:

a) Using creel-feeding system.b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the

possibilities of yarn damage.c) Using yarn feed control device.d) Using auto lint removal.

PRODUCTION CALCULATION:

1. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency:

2. Production/shift in meter:

3. Fabric width in meter:

STITCH NOTATION, CAM ARRANGEMENT

&

30

NEEDLE REPEAT

OF

SOME KNITTED FABRIC

FABRIC NAME: SINGLE LACOST

1. Stitch Notation:

Fig. Looping diagram

2. Cam arrangement & Needle arrangement:

i) Using two track cams:

▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲

▲ T ▲ ▲ ▲

ii) Using three truck cams:

FABRIC NAME: DOUBLE LACOST

▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲

▲ T ▲ ▲ ▲

▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲

31

12

12

3

= Knit stitch = Tuck stitchK = Knit camT = Tuck cam

1 = 1 Butt Needle2 = 2 Butt Needle3 = 3 Butt Needle

SAMPLE

1. Stitch Notation:




▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T

▲ T T ▲ ▲ ▲


▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T

▲ T T ▲ ▲ ▲

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T

Fig.- Cam arrangement Fig.- Needle arrangement

FABRIC NAME: SINGLE JERSEY

1. Stitch Notation:

32



12

12

3

SAMPLE




▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲

▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲


FABRIC NAME: SINGLE PK

33

12

= Knit stitchK = Knit cam


SAMPLE

1. Stitch Notation:




T ▲ T ▲ T ▲

▲ T ▲ T ▲ T


T ▲ T ▲ T ▲

▲ T ▲ T ▲ T

T ▲ T ▲ T ▲


34



12

12

3SAMPLE

FABRIC NAME :DOUBLE PK

1. Stitch Notation:




T T ▲ ▲ T T ▲ ▲

▲ ▲ T T ▲ ▲ T T


FABRIC NAME :1 x 1 RIB

35



12

SAMPLE

1. Stitch Notation:


i) Dial :

▲ ▲ ▲

▲ ▲ ▲

ii) Cylinder

FABRIC NAME : INTERLOCK

▲ ▲

▲ ▲

36

12 SAMPLE

12

1. Stitch Notation:


i) Dial :

▲ ▲ ▲

▲ ▲

ii) Cylinder :

▲ ▲

▲ ▲ ▲

37

12 SAMPLE

21

CHAPTER-VI

QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM

There is hardly any chance of any roll to be passed through production or to any buyers by to by unchecked or disqualified. The inspectors are too

much experienced and they are aware of their duties and responsibilities. Factory authority and the production officers are happy and satisfied with their works.

QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM

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All rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c time to time and are inspected over the grey inspection m/c visually in a pre-set speed against light. For any major or minor faults like thick-thin, barre marks, fall out, contamination, fly, holes, oil lines, needle lines, slubs, etc are recorded in grey inspection report to classify the fabric based on the four point system. Collar & cuff are inspected visually under light box, any major & minor faulty collar/cuff like having wrong ply, hole, needle lines, slubs, wrong design, first line problem etc properly counted and recorded.

QUALITY ASSURANCE PROCEDURE: Based on the sequence of grey inspection, the inspector serially numbers each roll ensuring that all rolls having the knit card with complete details of the roll. 1) After production of fabric rolls of 8 to 25 kg, m/c operators cut them from the cloth or batch roller and they are carried to inspection section by the helpers.

2) Almost four inspection workers are for every shift to check the fabric rolls. For any kind of fault they are checked thoroughly. Skilled inspectors find them and indicate them by the scissors in some cases.

3) Quality is specified on the basis of 4-points system. Here is the point distribution for different kinds fault in this system:-

FOUR POINT GRADING SYSTEMSize of defects Penalty

3 inches or less 1 pointOver three inch but not 6 inch 2 pointOver 6 inch but not 9 inch 3 pointOver 9 inch 4 point

THICK THIN DIRT, OIL SPOT, CONTAMINATION:

Up to 3’’ in length: 1 Pt Up to 6’’ in length: 2 “ Up to 9’’ in length: 3 “

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Up to 9’’ in length: 4 “

QUALITY Pts / per 100 square meter= (Total point * GSM)/ (Roll weight*10)

Quality inspectors seal on the fabric rolls as ‘CHECK-1’, ‘OK’ & ‘REJECT’ as according as quality classification.

QUALITY CLASSIFICATION

1 2 3 <20 20-30 30> OK ASK REJECT

LIST OF EQUIPMENTS:

In this factory ‘Esquire Knit Composite.’ this is the list of equipments to assure quality:-

1) Inspection m/c # 1(For plain single jersey) 2) Inspection m/c #2 (For decorative single jersey as like as Lycra, Lacoste, waffle, Fleece and all kind of double jersey as like as Rib, Interlock). 3) Scissors 4) Weight balance & Micro balance 5) GSM cutter 6) Seal (‘CHECK-1’, ‘OK’, ‘REJECT’.).

Rejection criteria for body & Rib: Following table shows common body & rib faults and response by grey inspection section.

No. Faults Response

1. Needle marks Major needle line is rejected.

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2. Stripe Major needle line is rejected.

3. Barre marks Rejected

4. Slubs 1 point 5. Wrong design Rejected 6. Pin holes 1 point 7. Fly & contamination Acceptable for color but not for white

8. Sinker marks Do 9. Uneven tension Discuss with manager

10. Missing yarn Use 4 point

11. Crease line Do

12. Uneven tension Discuss with manager

13. Oil stripe/line Do

14. Thick-thin place Rejected

15. Mixed yarn Discuss with manager

Rejection criteria for collar & cuff: Following table shows common collar & cuff faults and response taken by grey inspection section.

No. Faults Response

1. Wrong ply Reject 2. Hole Reject

3. Needle line Reject

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4. Slubs Reject 5. Wrong design Reject 6. Wrong tripping Reject 7. Fly & contamination Acceptable for color but not for white

8. First round problem Reject 9. Uneven tension Discuss with manager

10. Missing yarn Reject

11. Crease line Reject

12. Rust line Reject

13. Oil stripe Reject

14. Thick-thin Reject

15. Wrong tube Reject

QUALITY STANDARD:

Here is the quality standard:- 1) Fabric width 7) Broken needle /2’’ 2) Fabric length 8) Thick /thin yarn 4) Slub 9) Barre/ Stripe 3) Fabric weight 10) Dirt 5) Hole 11) Oil 6) Needle / Sinker line 12) Press off

REMARKS: There is hardly any chance of any roll to pass through production on to any buyers by to by unchecked or disqualified. The inspections are too much experience and they are aware about their duties and responsibilities. The factory authority and production related personnel are happy and satisfied with their works

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CHAPTER-VII

MAINTENANCE

Maintenance of machineries is very important for any type of industries and it is a must for a knit composite mill. All machines and machines parts of knitting, dyeing and garments are maintained with extreme care. Because production quality and quantity,

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both depends on the maintenance with regularity. Esquire Knit Composite Ltd. lead maintenance with a troop of skilled mechanical fitters.

MAINTENANCE OF MACHINERY: In the knitting floor of Esquire Knit Composite Ltd. all circular and flat knitting m/cs are maintained regularly and as necessity requirements. Here, different type of maintenance of machinery, which is taken, different time on the machineries.

TYPES OF MAINTENANCE: There are three types of maintenance which is taken in Esquire Knit Composite Ltd.are as follows- (1). Routine maintenance (2).Unscheduled maintenance (3). Scheduled maintenance (1). Routine maintenance: # during this maintenance production should be off. #during this maintenance clearing should be done. # during this maintenance setting should be checked & adjusted if should.# during this maintenance oiling should be doing.# It takes approximately 5-6 hrs.

(2) Unscheduled maintenance: # it is done suddenly. # during this maintenance production should be temporary off.

# It takes one day, but it depends on availabity of machine parts.

# scheduled maintenance.# during this maintenance production should be temporary off.# it takes half a day.

ROUTINE: 1) Daily Maintenance: Every machine is taken maintenance daily by the operators during production. When a production is started by the operator after handing over from previous shift operator, he takes a routine maintenance on the machine. He cleans the machine, assures yarn is fed to all needles, cleans the eye pot of feeder, memminger, signal lamp sensor etc. Before a while of a roll cut from batch or cloth roller, operator cleans needles, cylinder base plate etc. All around of the machine are kept neat and clean as if there is no dirt with yarn in the fabric.

2) Schedule/Routine Maintenance: Every machine has a schedule of maintenance of 10 or 15 days. According to date, schedule maintenance is taken on the machines. Operators are informed about the time of maintenance. After pre-estimated production, they hand over the machine to the fitters. Thus, fitters assure all machines are OK. for any time.

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3) Break down maintenance: When product quality hampered and to complete production in due time break down maintenance is taken. There are many faults seen in the fabric during production due to needle, sinker, take down roller etc. Then operators inform the mechanical fitters and they fix it.

4) Restorative maintenance: Restorative maintenance is taken for design change or new design development. According to advice or order of production officer, a machine is fixed for new design and mechanical fitters rearrange cam and needle system.Planned and preventive maintenance are not taken on the machineries in this mill.

MANPOWER SET UP FOR MAINTENANCE: There are two shifts in this mill. Two groups of mechanical fitters for four persons work for two shifts. Each group having a leader, a needle man and two assistant fitters. Fitters work under the technical in charge for knitting section only. They all are very efficient and hard working. They can fix any type of mechanical problem of machines. No necessity happens to hire others from outside to fix machine maintenance. There are electro-mechanical groups to work for electrical problem of machineries. They work for overall factory.

MAINTENANCE PROCEDURE:

1) For there is any mechanical fault of machine which is responsible for production hamper, operator informs mechanical fitters in duty. Mechanical fitters come and observe the problem firstly, and then they begin to fix it.

2) If mechanical fitters be unable to fix it, then they inform technical in-charge, he then comes in spot and fix it.

3) For there is any electrical problem of machine or serious founding mechanical problem, mechanical and electrical department are informed, they come and fix the problem. They commence at work after informing of knitting manager. There are two mechanical engineers in the department.

4) For restorative maintenance, senior production officer orders mechanical fitters to fit required machine for cam and needle arrangement and other necessary requirements in case of new design development.

Maintenance sequence of circular knitting machine

Power on/off↓

MPF/Positive feeder current line off↓

MPF belt out/loss

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↓Yarn cut

↓Fabric out by handle

↓Cleaning and Oiling

↓Cam box out

↓Needle & sinker out

↓Needle & sinker cleaning by oil

↓Cam box cleaning by air

After opening & cleaning, m/c is leveled by using leveling meter and follows the reverse process to ready the m/c.

MAINTENANCE TOOLS & THEIR FUNCTIONS:

S L No. Name of Tools Functions of maintenance Tools

01. L-Key Loosen and Tighten the screws.02. Air Suctioner Cleans machine by suctioning.03. Screw Driver To loosen and tighten the screws.04. Dhali (Spanner) Loosen and Tighten nut and bolt etc.05. Star Driver Screw unlocking.06. Pliyers (Nose &Coarse) Tighten screws and nuts.07. Cutting Pliers Cutting thin wire.08. Pulley Key To loosen pulleys. 08. Pulley Key To loosen pulleys.

Remarks:This mill has a strong maintenance fitter’s troop to fix up all types problem. Two groups of two shifts obey their duties responsibly and sincerely. With their different tools or equipments they perform their duties skillfully.

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CHAPTER-VIII

UTILITY SERVICES

Production and profit are closely related. In order to get quality final product it needs fresh raw materials as well as effective manpower and machinery in good condition. Utility in conjugation with the three M’s plays an important role to maximize the production as well as the profit. Utility ensures the followings: Power supply (By Generator) Water supply (By Pump) Steam supply (By Boiler)

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Compressed air (By A/C plant) Exhaust air handling (By vacuum planning system) Fuel & gas supply Workshop facility Civil work POWER SUPPLY: Esquire Knit Composite Ltd. has three generators for power supply to ensure continuous dyeing & knitting operation and help to fulfill their target production. Two is gas generator & other is diesel generator. Gas generator is widely used because of lower production cost of Specification of generator: Types: Gas generator Company: Synchronoks Alternator. Model: MTG-8468. Country origin: USA. Capacity: 920 kw. Frequency: 50Hz RPM: 1000. Pressure of gas: 50m bar. Types: Diesel generator Company: Perkins Model: PS380FI. Country origin: United Kingdom Capacity: 380kv, 350kw.

Rated power: 330 kva Maximum current: 264 kw

Frequency: 50 Hz RPM: 1500.

WATER SUPPLY: There are three deep tubes well for supplying water in the factory. This unit collects water from the under ground and here for hardness testing common test i.e. shop testis followed. For dyeing section 0.5 ppm is maintain. This collecting water is reserve in reserve tank and then supply everywhere in the factory. On the other hand, there is water treatment plant use to oxidize water before supply. Total water is supplied 200 cubic meter per hour.

STEAM SUPPLY: In this factory, there are four boiler use to supply steam for different operation where it is necessary. Specification of boiler: EXHAUST GAS BOILAR Model: SGCM 1000A10S

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Country: INDIA Max. Pressure: 150(PSI) Capacity: 1.5 tons Frequency: 50 Hz Volts: 400 Other gas boiler capacity is 6,4,3 tons. So total steam capacity in this is 14.5 tons/hr. COMPRESSED AIR SUPPLY: There is a air compressor to supply compressed air in the factory. Specification of compressor: No of compressor: 02 Origin: BOGE (screw type) Country: Germany Model: SF 100 Capacity: 10 m3/min Swan compressed air (centrifugal type) Capacity:4 m3/min

Kaiser compressorCapacity: 10m3/minWorking presser: 6-7 bar.

REMARKS: As the biggest project the Reedisha Knitex Ltd, but it has vast utility systems. There is a skill manpower group of engineers and other technical staffs to look after these utility services. They have to remain aware of solution on a great sense of responsibility for any type of problem due to utility supply.

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CHAPTER-IX

STORE & INVENTORY CONTROL

Inventory is planning and execution involves participation by most of the fundamental segment of business sales, production, purchase, finance and accounting. Inventory is a wider sense is defined as any idle resource of an enterprise how ever it is semi-finished packing spares and other stocked in order to meet an expected demand or distribution.

OBJECTIVES OF INVENTORY CONTROL:

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1) Financial activities: a) To save amount of investment b) To know the cash position 2) Property Protection: a) Preventable waste b) Insurable damage c) Unauthorized use 3) Operating: a) To obtain the best overall balance between production and inventory carrying cost. b) To minimize losses

c) To avoid stock out and to keep inventory holding costs in costs in balance.

INVENTORY SYSTEMS: For Raw Materials: In this factory, Reedisha Knitex Limited, raw materials are yarn of different type, different count and of different spinning mills of home and abroad. As according to knitting section demand yarn is either imported or bought from spinning mills and they are kept in the store for raw materials in accordance with type and count. As like as polyester, cotton, lycra are kept separately and also to their count variation. Inventory office keeps record of this raw materials amount, their usage and storage.

For Spares: Different spares parts of knitting machines and other equipments are kept in store as inventory so that there are no time and money losses while it is being used. Here is the list of spare parts as inventory: 1) Needle detector 2) Fan 3) Air gun 4) MPF belt tensioning device 5) Air nozzle 6) Fabric spreader 7) Fabric light 8) Compressor line + pipe 9) Air blower 10) Memminger

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11) Oil Tank 12) Fabric roller 13) Inverter 14) Yarn Guide feeder 15) Oil Nozzle 16) Cam box 17) Magnet 18) VDQ pulley 19) Fan broker 20) Oil Meter cover 21) Oil plutonic 22) Air meter cover 23) Knot catcher 24) Feeder ring bolt For Knitted Fabrics: After knitting the fabrics are collected according to roll form. There is a big store room beside knitting section in this factory and fabric rolls are stored here according to fabric types and some specification is given to fabric rolls such as buyer name, yarn count, lot no, fabric type, m/c no, fabric weight etc. Collars and cuffs are also stored in this room. A store keeper always does this job successfully. For Finished Goods: Finished goods in this mill are the readymade garments. All garments are being ready in the cartoon according to the piece numbers as buyers choose.Cartoons are kept prepared one upon another for dispatch. Total no. of cartoons is maintained by the inventory office for finished goods. And at last, they are sent to dispatch after counting.

For Others: Out of above types there are inventory systems for semi-finished goods like as dyed fabrics, garments pattern pieces, markers, sewed goods, scrap, surplus, absolute items, garments labels, packages etc.These goods are maintained by the respective inventory control office different departments this knit-composite mill.

REMARKS: Proper inventory control of raw materials, semi-finished goods, finished goods and other miscellaneous goods lead smooth production. As REEDISHA KNITEX LTD. follow the correct way of inventory control system, it can have a good and huge production as it demands.

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CHAPTER –X

COST ANALYSIS

INTRODUCTION: Costing is a process by which the setting price of a product is calculated. It is a very important task for a factory which runs for business purposes.And it is also strictly followed in the REEDISHA KNITEX LTD. Costing of the products considering the raw materials expenditure, salary and wages of officers and workers, distributions and advertisement expenses etc. all direct and indirect expenses is done in

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this factory. It is determined by a troop of accountants with advice and consultancy of executive director.

Data & other’s details are not available for company restriction.

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CHAPTER -XI

MARKETTING ACTIVITIES

INTRODUCTION: Marketing activities are done in this mill, REEDISHA KNITEX LTD. by a skillful team of marketing officers under the Executive Director. Here are the details of marketing activities.

CONSUMER OF THE PRODUCTS: The mill has a great number of renowned and international consumers. The main consumers of this factory are European country such as Germany, France, Netherlands, Denmark, Italy & England. Following are some regular consumers:

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1) Tandem 2) Style tex. 3) I.C. Company. 4) Euro centre 5) Holland house 6) Fashion concept 7) TMS

PRODUCT LEBEL: There are following labels used by this mill: 1) Care Label: It contains washing in hot or cold water, chemical cleaning, drying conditions etc. 2) Size Label: It contains size of garments. 3) Composition Label: It contains the fabric composition of different fiber type. 4) Decorative Label: Decoration is as buyer or consumer choice wise.

PACKAGE SIZE & LEBEL: Most common sizes are S - Small M - Medium L - Large XL - Extra large XLL - Very very large

LOCAL MARKET: Reedisha Knitex Limited is 100% export oriented mill. So there is no local market involved in it. But the knitting and dyeing & finishing section takes some sub-contact for knitting and dyeing & finishing an amount of fabrics from their given yarn and fabrics

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CHAPTER-XII

CONCLUION

The industrial training gives us the opportunity to work in mills. It is an experience of normal academic learning,

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This training gives us actual picture about man, machine, material, methods and market. We have earned the direct knowledge about the raw materials, actual running condition of the m/cs. Works technologist and administration.

This mill is a well planed with enough expansion facilities. Their exist are wonderful employer and worker relation. Working environment for the labors is also good.

During our training we visited administration section, store, boiler section, generator room, compressor section etc. Everywhere we got cordial behavior from all employees

Above all this training for 35 days in the Reedisha Knitex Ltd. Has give us a new experience for practial life.

College of Textile Technology has given me the field to perform the industrial attachment with Reedisha Knitex Ltd. This attachment seems to me as a bridge to minimize the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge. Undoubtedly, this attachment paved us the way to learn more about Textile Technology, industrial practices, and industrial management and production process.

Besides this attachment gave us the first opportunity to work in an Industry and acquainted us with the internal sight and sound of Textile Industries. I believe with all these, the experience of the industrial attachment will help our future life as a Textile Technologist

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