A food-lover’s guide to great dining around Jackson Hole and Teton Valley

WINTER/SPRINGdish ng

LIQUIDa highlight of the best

cocktails in townp.16

Find out how chefs are going to great lengths

to keep things fresh and regional this season.

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WHAT’S FRESH THIS WINTER?

BELOVED BURGERSArea restaurants offer a

number of choices and flavors for burger fanatics.

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winter 2012

a n ew b ar within

Beloved BurgersFrom the basic hamburger to one served at 9,095 feet, area restaurants offer a number of choices and flavors for burger fanatics.

Fries in The HoleOne man’s journey to load up on carbs and cocktails

What’s FreshArea chefs make it their mission to offer seasonal and regional ingredients throughout Jackson’s long winter.

Eating for WinterFind out how the locals eat “winter” foods to keep them fueled, warm and comforted in the cold.

For Love and LoavesOne couple is bringing artisanal breads and French pastries to Jackson.

Mountain Dining Top to bottom at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

Get SharpNew West KnifeWorks’ owner demonstrates how to use a knife and which blade to choose for certain foods.

Restaurant ListingsA guide to some of the best places to dine in and around Jackson Hole

A Cut AboveLocal butchering helps ensure quality from the field to the table.

Meet Our BloggersOn our website, www.dishingjh.com, we have even more information and stories about food. Meet some of our columnists.

Features

Columns

Letter from the Editors

Ask For ItRecipes for some of our favorite dishes from the valley’s restaurants

LiquidSpotlighting great cocktails around the valley

HeirloomsWyoming’s Governor Matt Mead talks about his mother’s bread and shares his family recipe.

Eat Your Way Through the Off-SeasonJackson Hole’s resident foodie finds out what makes Ecuador’s food so special.

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Cover photo: Million Dollar Cowboy Steakhouse burgerThis page: Preserved peaches from Snake River Grill

dish ngISSUE 1 | WINTER/SPRING

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What’s your favorite winter meal?

EditorsAllison ArthurCara Rank

PublisherIconic Industries

Art DirectorKristen Joy

ContributorsJesse BrownPrudence Daniels Katy Parins GrayTristan GreszkoAnnie FennDina MishevCorey MilliganAshley Wilkerson MooreCarrie PattersonClaire RabunJim StanfordDavid Stubbs

Homemade tomato

soup and grilled cheese

Macaroni and cheese

Turkey chili

Warm chocolate

chip cookies

Chicken Parmesan

Elk stew

Green curry

Huevos rancheros

Game steak with a red wine cherry reduction

Pretty much every conversation we have begins with, “What did you have for dinner last night?” If it’s not that, then it’s, “What are you having tonight?” We admit

it: We love food. We love to eat it. We love to cook it. We love talk about it. Then, we love to talk about it some more.

That’s how the idea of Dishing came to fruition (well, actually, it came about during a laborious evening making chile rellenos while talking about everything we love to eat. You get the idea.). We decided we couldn’t be the only ones who spend so much of our time thinking about food, so why not create a forum to “dish” about all the exciting food around us — world famous pastry chefs, authentic ethnic food, even really good slices of pizza.

Jackson Hole has an incredible food scene, but if you’re not eating out every week, or talking to your butcher, or chatting up the person behind the cheese counter, it’s easy to miss what’s going on around us. Dishing aims to fill that void, helping residents and tourists become informed diners and consumers.

In our listings, you’ll find some of the restaurants we’ve identified as key to our food scene. We describe what it’s like to eat at these places and advise you on what to order. The other half of our magazine brings you food

journalism at its finest. You’ll find in-depth stories such as a piece about butchering trends; our Liquid column,

which spotlights some of the best cocktails in the valley; and Ask For It, which gives you some of the best recipes from area restaurants (finally, you can make Rendezvous Bistro’s mac and cheese at home). We bring you mouth-watering photos and recipes to go along with them.

And if that’s not enough, our website, www.dishingjh.com, will enhance what our print publication offers, with daily blog posts, photos, video and even more recipes.

Like any good chef, we know we should keep our shortcomings to ourselves. But we’ll fess up. We realize the tag line includes Teton Valley in our mission. While you will find some information on Teton Valley, that could be vastly increased, and we plan to do so in our summer issue. Dishing simply came about so fast that there was little time to visit every restaurant or purveyor who

should be included.

So please, since this is the first of two issues we’ll publish annually, tell us what you’d like to see. Tell us what we’re missing. Send us an email, or, better yet, if you see us at dinner, stop by. We’ll dish.

– Allison Arthur and Cara Rank

Hazel Brown • Raquel Allegra • Humanoid • Enza Costa

Aesa • Michael Spirito • Scosha • Mellisa Joy Manning

Faliero Sarti • Lars Andersson • Avant Toi

Lena Skedagard • Pas De Calais • Cotelac • Miguel Ases

35 W. Deloney Jackson, WY • 307.733.5665 • www.habitsjh.com

A store with thoughtfully selected items for everyday as well as dinner out.

Letter from the editors

5

Ask for it

Some dishes bring us back to area restaurants over and over again, such as a Sweetwater salad with their famous house dressing (herb-feta). And though the restaurant has kept the recipe a secret for as long as it’s been open, they graciously agreed to share it with Dishing. I haven’t been this excited about a recipe since I found the oven-roasted chicken and bread salad recipe from Zuni Café online. Since getting the dressing recipe, I’ve made it every week and have been caught eating it for breakfast on several occasions. While it’s amazing on a salad, it makes anything dipped in it taste better. If you aren’t up for making it, Sweetwater will sell you a jar if you ask.

WHERE are you going to EAT?

www.LEXJH.com

This column is modeled after one of our favorite reads, Bon Appetit’s RSVP. If there is a recipe from an area restaurant you’d like to see in our next issue, please let us know. We will try to get it for you. Write us at: editors@dishingjh.com. For the first issue, we sought some of our favorite dishes. -Allison Arthur

Sweetwater’s Herb-FetaHouse Dressing

1/2 cup feta2 tablespoon chopped garlic1/2 cup olive oil1/2 cup vegetable oil2 cups mayonnaise1 cup cider vinegar1/2 teaspoon dried oregano1/2 teaspoon dried basil1/8 teaspoon dried thyme

Mix all ingredients and blend well. Makes just over a quart.

The Cellar at the White Buffalo Club’s Oven-Roasted Steelhead5 to 6 portions

Creamy Corn and Shitakes:1 small red onion, diced1 pound shitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced4 ears of sweet corn, shucked1 cup white wine1 cup heavy creamSalt and pepper

Saute onions and mushrooms in olive oil on medium high heat, 8 to 10 minutes, until the mushrooms develop a caramelized appearance. Add fresh corn, and saute for two more minutes. Add wine, and reduce until almost dry. Add cream, and reduce by half. Season with salt and pepper.

Tomato Chipotle Relish:1 small red onion, diced4 large tomatoes, diced1 chipotle, pureed3/4 cup lime juice2 tablespoon honeySalt and pepper

Saute onions briefly in olive oil. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer until most of the liquids are evaporated, about 12 to 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

For the Steelhead5, 6-ounce steelhead filets (salmon can be substituted)

Season each filet lightly with salt and pepper. Sear in hot pan with olive oil, or grill carefully on lightly oiled grill. Cook two minutes per side, depending on thickness of each filet, until desired doneness.

Serve the fish atop a bed of the creamy corn, and finish with a spoonful of the relish. The relish can be served hot or cold, decided by the chef.

Rendezvous Bistro Macaroni and Cheese Serves 8

2 cups half-and-half1 yellow onion8 cloves garlic3 tablespoons butter3 tablespoons flour3 ounces white cheddar1.5 ounces Gruyere3 ounces ParmesanSalt and white pepper to taste1/2 teaspoon cayenne1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

Bring the half-and-half to a simmer, and steep the onion and cloves in half-and-half for roughly 20 minutes. In a separate pan, make a roux by mixing equal parts butter and flour, and add the roux to half-and-half. Use a whisk to distribute the mixture, then add cheeses. Season with a pinch of nutmeg and salt to taste. Douse the penne pasta in the sauce until well covered, and top with Parmesan cheese and bread crumbs. Bake in a 350-degree oven until it is bubbly and warmed through.

Everything I’ve ever eaten at The Cellar has been amazing, this dish included. One of the chef’s favorites, he promises you can’t go wrong if you follow the instructions. Make it for a special dinner. It will be even better served with a salad topped with Sweetwater’s dressing.

Another favorite: The Rendezvous Bistro’s macaroni and cheese. I don’t remember having a meal at the Bistro when this dish was not at my table. Served bubbling and hot from the oven, it’s creamy with a crunchy top and accompanies pretty much anything you can imagine. It also makes a satisfying choice when eaten with just a salad for dinner.

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The Everything-in-the-Kitchen BurgerQ Roadhouse - $13

Weighing in somewhere around 20-ounces, it’s almost best to ask yourself what’s not on this burger. It starts with a stone-ground, whole-wheat ciabatta bun, which is then layered with fried pickles. Those are topped with a 10-ounce patty smothered in cheddar, grilled onions, bacon, lettuce, tomato, fresh onions and house barbecue sauce (made from 25 ingredients including coffee, Dr. Pepper and anchovies). “It’s more than any mortal needs,” says chef Eric Gauthier. This winter Q started curing its own Kurobuta bacon in house, a process that takes five days.

The Non-Fast-Food, Quick BurgerMacPhails - $10.95

These burgers are made from the finest cuts of premium certified Angus beef that’s regionally ranched and naturally fed. Husband and wife Bruce and Dawn Bollinger grind their burgers every day, which means they are never frozen. Patties are flame-grilled while you wait. Choose from five types: cheddar with classic toppings, blue cheese and bacon, Colby jack with barbecue sauce and bacon, Swiss cheese and mushrooms or with lettuce in place of a bun. Each is served with fries (locally grown Idaho spuds fresh cut daily,) and a crisp-brined, New York deli-style Kosher dill pickle.

With a number of area restaurants trimming their steaks in-house, Jackson Hole and Teton Valley boast not just great chops. They also have some of the best burgers around. Using the trimmings from their prime steaks, many chefs create rich, flavorful patties that are cooked to order. They don’t stop there, however. Restaurants have a number of takes on the classic hamburger, from grinding the bacon into the meat to layering the bun with fried pickles. This list just barely scratches the surface of what’s great, but these are some interesting options.

The Secret BurgerSnake River Grill - $17

Ask your server if this burger is even available, with only 10 or so made a night and not even mentioned on the menu. The 10-ounce burger uses a combination of Mead Ranch beef ground in-house. The blend contains 60-percent chuck and 25-percent New York strip for a taste that’s like a steak burger. Chef Jeff Drew uses the fat cap to introduce “our own fat.” Each patty is hand packed for texture, then served on a house-made Kaiser bun with Vermont white cheddar, Wisconsin applewood- smoked bacon and Parmesan fries. “It has everything it needs,” Drew says. “No ketchup is necessary.”

The Top Chef BurgerSilver Dollar Bar and Grill - $17

Top Chef alum Scott Rutter serves his Snake River Farms American Kobe burger, which weighs in at a half pound, on a house-made Parmesan bun. Then, he tops it with caramelized red onions, spicy mayonnaise and Parmesan fries that have been tossed in truffle oil and parsley flakes. “It’s sweet with some heat,” Rutter says. The American Kobe makes this burger especially tasty, he says. “When it says Kobe, you know how it was raised,” he says. “It’s super consistent, all from one cow.”

Beloved

The MinimalistStiegler’s Austrian Restaurant - $17

Since 1983, Austrian chef Peter Stiegler has been using trimmings from his tenderloins — “the finest cut of beef” — for his burgers. He only makes 12 to 15 of the 6-ounce patties at a time (some nights they are not available), and only makes them available in the bar. Burgers are served on a Kaiser roll (“an Austrian specialty”) with Gruyere (“the real Swiss cheese”). “It’s simple,” Stielger says. “It’s fresh, that’s what makes it so good.”

The Bacon BlendTrio American Bistro - $15

Taking the basic burger up a notch, Trio chefs Will Bradof and Paul Wireman grind the trimmings from their strip loins and New York steaks in-house. Instead of having to fight to keep a piece of bacon on every bite, the Berkshire bacon gets ground in with the burger meat. A buttery brioche bun from Persephone Bakery (light enough to squish in your hand without falling apart) is only topped with the meat and Cabot cheddar cheese. Ketchup is served on the side.“This way you get a bit of bacon all the way through,” Wireman says.

The Local’s BurgerMillion Dollar Cowboy Steakhouse - $15

Chef Kevin Gries began making this burger several years ago as a way to keep his steak trimmings out of the trash. About 40 burgers, ground from rib eyes, tenderloins, sirloins and more, are made fresh nightly. This burger is local in more ways than one. It is served in the lounge area and is discounted between 5:30 and 7 p.m. The beef is regional, and the bread comes from a few blocks away at Eleaven. Gries says his fat-to-meat ratio is the key for flavor.“Most places serve 80-20,” he says. “Ours are 70-30.”

Know Your Burger

80:20 ratio: Many chefs agree that blending 80 percent beef with 20 percent fat yields the tastiest burger. As fat content decreases, burgers become less juicy.

Fat cap: Some choose to incorporate this thick layer of fat found on the outside of cuts for enhanced flavor.

Kobe beef: True Kobe comes from Japan. American Kobe comes from the same breed of cattle, which are fattened longer than the average cow. Their beef is considered better than prime due to a longer feeding program.

Producers: Much of the area’s beef comes from Jackson’s Mead Ranch, Boise-based Snake River Farms and Double R Ranch out of Washington.

From the basic hamburger to one served at 9,095 feet, area restaurants offer a number of choices and flavors for burger fanatics.Burgers

By Cara RankPhotos by Tristan Greszko

The custom-blend burger from Trio American Bistro

Q Roadhouse

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The Triple ThreatCascade - $16

Walk into Cascade any afternoon and you’re likely to see many tables with a platter of sliders on top. Here, you can order two or three sliders at a time, depending on your appetite. Think of it as an appetizer or an entree. Each 2-ounce patty is topped with slow roasted tomatoes for tang,

oven-dried pancetta for crispiness and truffle aioli and served on a brioche bun.“You can eat two and not feel full and go back out skiing for the rest of the afternoon,” says chef Kevin Humphreys. Though it doesn’t come with ketchup, it’s well worth ordering some on the side. Humphreys makes his own.

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The Special BlendThe Brakeman American Grill - $8.45

A double grind to incorporate a special blend of 19 spices is what sets this Victor, Idaho, burger apart. The Brakeman uses the shoulder meat — most chefs use that particular cut for roasts — for its burgers. Owner Joe Reed won’t reveal his 19-spice blend, only saying it includes salt and pepper. Buns “don’t fall apart when you eat them,” he says. Burgers are topped with Colby jack cheese “because it melts just perfectly” he says, and served with mayonnaise, lettuce, tomato and a slice of red onion. The signature is a half-pound burger. The junior weighs in a one-fourth of a pound. The Get-You-High BurgerCouloir Restaurant - $18

At the top of the Bridger Gondola at 9,095 feet, Couloir serves a burger that can only be described as over-the-top good. The half- pound Kobe patty is topped with caramelized onions, Kurobuta bacon, Idaho-based Ballard Family cheddar and Wyomatoes. “It has a nice edge to it,” says Jay Brewer, food service director with Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. “It’s an aggressive, over-the-top hamburger with the ingredients. It’s ridiculous.”

Their secret to success is the double-fry method. If you’ve never heard of it, put it in your vocabulary. The Bistro, and most restaurants that hand-make fries, use some variation of the following process: The fries are cut using a hand-operated press to push the potatoes through cutting dyes. Then, the cut potatoes are soaked in water to remove some of the starch, which is crucial to making a crisp fry. The fries are partially cooked or blanched in oil before service begins, then given a finishing fry to order.

After the Bistro, we headed downtown to Snake River Grill, which cuts a thin shoestring fry and serves it covered in truffle oil and Parmesan cheese, making for a rich and delicious small plate. A few more stops included Four Season’s Westbank Grill, which creates a delicious homemade fry, and The Peak, where I learned that this winter, chefs will attempt to keep up with their huge volume and hand-make all the fries as well.

We found that The Bird’s tastes the most homemade, a version similar to what Aunt Joanie used to make. There, chefs cut the potatoes with a knife and may have some other secrets of preparation, but they ain’t talkin.’

Some restaurants opt to amp up their fries with fry sauce,

another regional specialty. It’s unclear whether it was invented by Brigham Young or John Smith, but sources say it was invented in neighboring Utah. Fry sauce is ubiquitous in any establishment from McDonald’s to fine dining in Idaho and Utah. The traditional recipe is two parts mayonnaise to one part ketchup.

The Kitchen takes a twist on the concept with its Monster Sauce, which is sweet and savory with a bit of an Asian flair. Trio’s crosscut fries are served smothered in a creamy blue cheese sauce. There’s nothin’ the ladies like better. Then, there’s the ever-popular thin fries at Koshu, which are renowned and should always be ordered to dip into the flavorful Asian fusion sauces that adorn many of their dishes. Café Genevieve’s fry sauce is the closest thing to traditional fry sauce, with just a little added seasoning to spice it up.

After an exhausting search, we finally deemed Café Genevieve the winner by a slight margin. Though not surprisingly, their version is very similar to the fries at the Bistro as the owner, Freddie Peightal, is a disciple of the Rendezvous Bistro family. On this occasion, probably due to a slightly different starch level in the potatoes or the particular age of the cooking oil or even, perhaps, the proper mix of cocktails on our pallets, their fries were the best.

What did we learn from this unscientific fry-and-cocktail crawl? Most of Jackson’s restaurants serve a fry that will not disappoint, and our date night was a success.

“The fact that most folks — whether local or tourists — are recreating heavily in the cold, allows us to enjoy the calorie-laden french fry with reckless abandon.”

At Cafe Genevieve they make a homemade fry sauce to accompany the house-made fries.

On a Saturday night last summer, my wife and I left the kids with a babysitter, threw on our date night duds and hit the town. Our plan? To eat our way through the varieties of french fries in Jackson Hole to find the best fried taters around these parts. For all the reasons I love my beautiful midwestern bride, I particularly love that she isn’t afraid to order up a plate of fried food and dig in. And, there’s nothing better than the noble french fry, which should not be overlooked as a Jackson Hole regional specialty.

After all, Jackson Hole is only a few miles from Idaho, the potato capital of the world. As such, many Jackson chefs embrace this tuber as a local ingredient and bring their culinary skills to bear to produce some of the finest french fries around. Plus, the fact that most folks — whether local or tourists — are recreating heavily in the cold allows us to enjoy the calorie-laden french fry with reckless abandon.

We started our french fry crawl at Rendezvous Bistro, the first restaurant in Jackson’s modern times to embrace the handmade fry, according to owner Gavin Fine. Now, like the Bistro, most restaurants opt to take the french fry to an artisan level, cutting them by hand and processing in-house. Both my wife and mother-in-law frequently order the Bistro’s steak frites, pretending they are hungry for a steak. I know it’s the french fries they’re after. Due to their time-tested and strictly adhered-to cooking method, I think Rendezvous Bistro and its sister restaurant, Q Roadhouse, make some of the finest fries in Jackson Hole.

Fries in the HOLEOne man’s journey to load up on carbs and cocktailsBy Corey Milligan

Parmesan truffle shoestring fries from Snake River Grill

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Dishes such as buffalo pot roast and sides of pureed parsnips become the stars of the menu. “Everybody loves it and knows what pot roast is,” he says. Drew also brings back a sea-sonal favorite, the chocolate soufflé, which is taken off the menu every summer. “There is a little bit of joy in getting the chocolate soufflé back in the winter,” Drew says. “Waiting for it makes it taste better.”

This winter Drew is able to pull from his jarring collection and use the preserved Meyer lemons he made last summer or the bright red Fresno chilies with a Spanish cheese as an appetizer. When not in play on the menu, these beautiful jars serve as decoration in the dining room.

Hamilton, who also has a can-ning collection from last sum-mer, uses the winter months to add heat and spices to his dishes and create complex flavors, often using coconuts (the milk, the meat and the water) to add “a bit of light-ness.” Yes, coconuts are in- season and available in the winter. “Winter forces you to reach outside your comfort zone and create new flavor combinations.”

Winterizing the Farm-to-Table Concept

“Farm-to-table is just humon-gous right now,” Drew says. “But we have to be honest with ourselves that not that many years ago people didn’t even live here in the winter.” The remote location of Jack-son, difficulty and uncertain-ty of delivery from the air-

port, and road closures, make it even tougher. Drew says that sometimes he has to adjust his menus at the last minute when ingredients don’t show up because a plane didn’t make it in with his delivery.

The challenge, Drew says, is that you don’t have the 100-mile circle in Jackson. The closest farming sources are quite a bit farther away in the winter. Using the example of FedEx, he says, “You’ve got the world at your doorstep. You have to restrain your-self and make sense seasonally and regionally. I am careful not to become too global.”

While you can still get almost any ingredient, any time of the year, food

that is fresh and in season has more flavor, is more affordable and is bet-ter for you. “It makes me sleep better at night knowing that I know ev-erything about every ingredient we serve,” Hamilton says.

These Jackson chefs do always have access to neighboring meat sources such as Snake River Farms in Idaho, where they often get their meat. There are also some greenhouses in the region growing tomatoes, cucum-bers and mushrooms a good portion of the year, which extends the season of those items. But Gries cautions that the availability of honest, fresh, local ingredients year-round is some-what of a myth. “People that are say-ing they’ve got it are liars,” he says.

The only cherries you’ll find on the winter menu at Couloir will be in the sauce Executive Chef Wes Ham-ilton canned himself by preserving local farmers market cherries last summer. You also won’t find aru-gula, melon or asparagus. You defi-nitely won’t find fresh tomatoes.

“Seasonality is the goal,” he says. “We do a lot of work to put out in-season food only.”

What you will find are unique and creative dishes designed with regional, in-season ingredients. Entrees center on elk and buffalo rather than lamb, and appetizers feature oysters instead of scallops. Salads are adorned with pickled yuzu carrots the chef jarred last summer from a farm share in Ida-ho. Sauces are developed with the canned tomatoes preserved in the peak of summer. “You won’t find a green vegetable,” Hamilton promises.

So if fresh baby spinach is what you’re craving, move to the South. With a short growing season that extends from May through October, Hamilton and chefs like him are looking for innovative ways to keep things seasonal and fresh in winter. They tweak ingredients for stan-dard menu items. They preserve their summer harvests for use dur-ing the winter. They source the best of what is in-season and available in North America and obtain ingredi-ents that are from within a reason-able distance from Jackson (with some exceptions, such as fish, for example).

What’s on the Menu

Kevin Gries, who owns the Million Dollar Cowboy Steakhouse, takes the restaurant’s favorite summer dishes and makes seasonal adjust-ments to them during the winter. A huckleberry creme brulee becomes a Bailey’s version. The watermelon arugula salad shifts into braised red cabbage with Gorgonzola and can-

died pecans. Sides of roasted corn are replaced with roasted beats.

“I will do a salad, but I will use the heartier stuff that’s in season,” Gries says. The chef typically gets most of his produce from Idaho and Utah, where they harvest potatoes and onions during the fall that will keep in dry storage for months. Winter vegetables, such as arti-chokes, come from California.

Jeff Drew at Snake River Grill takes cues from his cozy, log-cabin, fire-place-roaring environment to help him shift into the winter months. “We are a log cabin,” he says. “When it’s cold outside, you can’t help but play up to the atmosphere people are dining in.”

So to create comfort food and in-season meals, Drew uses a lot of braising techniques and incorpo-rates root vegetables into his dish-es. “I confit a lot of game, and the accompaniments become heartier,” he says.

WHAT’S FRESHArea chefs make it their mission to offer seasonal and regional ingredients throughout Jackson’s long winter.By Allison Arthur Photos by Carrie Patterson

Snake River Grill Chef Jeff Drew cans fresh peaches with saffron and cinnamon.

Executive Chef Wes Hamilton at Couilor with his jars of farmers market loot.

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Hungry for a drink? Good food isn’t the only thing that Jackson has to offer. Our regular Liquid column spotlights great cocktails around the valley. For the first issue, we selected some hot and spicy libations to get you through the cold winter.

LiquidA highlight of the best cocktails in townBy Allison Arthur

Liquid

For actual spice, there’s no better cocktail than Cascade’s 16-ounce bloody mary ($9) made with bacon-infused vodka. The vodka is created using a sous vide method (the cooked bacon is vacuum-packed with the liquid and heated to extract the flavor before being filtered.) The bloody mary fea-tures tomato juice, homemade Worcestershire sauce, celery salt, ground pepper, olive juice, pepper juice, lime and lemon juices, horserad-ish and two secret ingredients. It’s topped with spicy green beans, sweet peppers, olives and an Old Bay rim.

If that’s too much heat, then try Abuelitos’ Jum-bo (often pronounced yumbo) margarita. The 32-ounce cocktail ($15), a blend of Jose Cuervo Gold tequila, Triple Sec and orange Curacao, is packed full of flavor, primarily coming from the fresh squeezed lime juice and pulp they add to it. It’s the most pure and potent margarita around. Drinking more than one if you plan on skiing the next day is not recommended. It’s guaranteed to leave you in a spicy mood.

At Thai Me Up Restaurant and Brewery, Brewer (and self-titled Dreamer) Jeremy Tofte serves a mean – and fiery – cocktail. The 45-ounce Bam-boozled ($18) starts with rum and then more rum before it’s mixed with vodka and more vod-ka. It’s then spiked with some dark rum, orange juice and pineapple juice. The finishing touch is a halved lime filled with Everclear, then set on fire. “Complete with our special blend of coconut milk, and now your living the dream,” Tofte says.

Want to start the evening feeling hot? The try the Sweet and Vicious ($11) from The Rose Bar. A riff on a classic Manhattan, the Sweet and Vi-cious is a mix of rye whiskey, amaro, vermouth, apple and a dash of maple. The Don Draper-esque cocktail is the perfect way to start a wintry night out. The whiskey is warming, the maple is com-forting and, once it makes its way to your head, you’ll feel like the star of the evening.

The RoseThe Sweet and Vicious $11

Thai Me UpBamboozled $18

Abuelitos Jumbo margarita $15

Cascade Restaurant and BarBacon bloody mary $9

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16

Ask Wyoming’s Governor Matt Mead what he remembers eating the most growing up in Jackson Hole, and you’d expect to hear steak, meatloaf or something indicative of his family’s cattle ranch. By birthright, Wyoming’s com-mandier-in-chief is a fourth generation cattle rancher.

You don’t expect to hear him hanker for white bread. Yes, white bread. A simple com-bination of flour, milk, eggs, yeast and butter.

“It was something both my grandmother and my mother made,” says Mead, 48. “Grow-ing up, we always had home-made bread. I assume she made it once a week.” Even 40 years after the first bag of prepackaged sliced bread hit supermarket shelves, it was something rarely in the Mead family kitchen.

Mead can’t recall how fre-quently his mother made the homemade loaves and rolls. But they were always there when he was hungry after a long day of school or retired from playing in the cold.

The homemade bread always just seemed to appear, he says. What Mead didn’t know then is that making bread isn’t just magic, it’s an art. To really appreciate home-made bread, you’d have to know a little about making it. It takes care, coaxing the ingredients from a sticky mess

into a firm dough that can be folded and stretched into submission. Then, it takes patience, waiting for the shiny ball to double in size. Then, even more careful handling.

If you are too aggres-sive, you’ll overwork the gluten, and the result will be a dense, un-malleable loaf. Then, more waiting for the yeast to again increase in size and, finally, for the loaf to cook.

Mead traces his Jackson Hole roots to his maternal great-grandparents, who were some of the first homesteaders in the valley. Their son, Cliff Hansen, was born in 1913 and was a cattle rancher in addition to serving as U.S. Senator and Wyoming governor. Cliff was married to Martha for 75 years before his death in 2010 at age 97. She passed away in October. The bread started with her, and she passed it to

Mead’s mother, Mary. Though, Mead says, their recipes varied. “It was something about the amount of milk ver-sus water that they used,” he recalls.

“It was pretty tasty,” Gov. Mead says. And the only thing

HeirloomsRefrigerator Rolls (Grammy’s Rolls)

(Suggest you cut recipe in half, dough easier to handle.)

2 cakes fresh yeast1 teaspoon sugar1 cup lukewarm water2 cups milk scalded2/3 cup melted shortening3/4 cup sugar4 teaspoons salt2 beaten eggs10 to 11 cups flour

Soften yeast and dissolve sugar (1 tsp.) in water; add milk which has cooled to lukewarm, shortening (lukewarm), sugar (3/4 c.), and salt. Add eggs, beat well. Add flour to make a soft dough; let stand 10 minutes; knead on lightly floured board until smooth and elastic. Place in greased bowl; grease top and cover; store in refrigerator. Shape rolls about 2 hours before serving. Let rise until doubled in bulk. Bake in hot oven (400 to 425), 15 to 20 minutes. Punch down unused dough and return to refrigerator. Makes 4 to 5 dozen rolls.

that could top it literally topped it: fresh butter. With milk cows on the ranch, fresh butter was often around to spread on top of a warm slice. “That was pretty tough to beat,” Mead says. “Fresh bread, steak and potatoes.”

Mead’s mother died in a fall from her favorite horse in 1996. Eating fresh bread recalls memories of her, he says. “It’s the smell of fresh bread throughout my home that re-minds me of my mom and my grandmother,” he says. “It’s family times. And still now, when I smell fresh bread, that smell reacts in my memory, and I think about growing up with my family.”

Mead and his wife Carol may be making memories for their own children, too. “Ten years ago, I bought her a bread machine,” he says. “So she makes bread, not as often, but when she does, it’s a treat.”

HEIRLOOMS is a regular column that looks at recipes from Jackson Hole’s past, whether those came from one of the old ranching families that settled the valley or an old restaurant that’s long been out of business. Please send us your recipes, or suggest ones that we should uncover, for old times’ sake. Contact us at editor@dishingjh.com.

Wyoming’s Governor Matt Mead talks about his mother’s bread and shares his family recipe. By Cara Rank

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Before former Freeskiing World Tour Champion Crystal Wright clicks into her skis, she already knows what she’s going to eat during a long, cold day in the mountains. The slopeside dining preferences for this Jackson native and personal trainer include lots of sandwiches with meat and cheese for energy and water to stay hydrated.

“I try to plan ahead,” Wright says.

Preparation is key for most residents of a town where winter drags on for seven months of the year. Once October settles in, residents begin to eschew their summer salads and homemade ice cream for “winter food.”

Yes, food really can be viewed as seasonally appropriate based on its ability to warm the body’s core temperature, explains Mary Ryan of Beyond

Broccoli Nutrition Counseling. As warm-blooded animals, humans’ bodies are constantly working to maintain an ideal temperature. Putting this to practice is easier than you might imagine, simply by choosing foods that fuel, warm and comfort the body.

“All foods raise body temperature somewhat,” Ryan says. “Digestion involves energy, and when you use energy, you produce heat in the process. Just eating warm-temperature foods of any kind can increase body core temperature, similar to the way eating ice cream or drinking an icy cold beverage can reduce your core body temperature.”

Research suggests that everything from meat and potatoes to Sriracha and black beans can produce enough body heat to keep you warm. But Ryan says foods that are high in fat, protein and fiber are the best to warm the body because they take longer to digest than, say, a light summer meal of salad and fruit.

That may just be why you crave a bowl of piping hot soup or meaty chili after a long day in the cold. As

a rule, Ryan says to opt for protein such as lean meats, eggs and beans; healthy fats including nuts, avocado, fish and olives; and fibrous foods such as dried fruits, veggies and grains.

Wright puts this advice into action, choosing a balance of healthy proteins, fiber, fats and carbs that her body will work hard to digest,

thus keeping her warm during grueling January conditioning sessions. She opts for a healthy

protein breakfast with eggs and veggies, a lunch consisting of a protein shake and a sandwich, and

quinoa, veggies and lean meat for dinner.

“Food is not the only tool for keeping you on top of your game this winter,” Wright says. “Water is key.” Although it is a common suggestion, staying hydrated is easy to overlook in the winter because your body doesn’t always feel as thirsty in the colder weather. “People think just because it is winter they do not need to drink as much water, but it is just as important as in the hot summer,” Wright says.

That also may be another reason for that end-of-the-day soup craving. “Soups and stews are great,” Ryan says. “They provide much needed fluid that we may not think about as much when it is cold.”

Outside of choosing the right foods, it’s important to listen to your body for hunger cues. Extreme conditions, brought on by cold weather or lots of exercise, can suppress the brain’s signals that the body is hungry, leaving you shivering and empty-stomached at the end of the day.

“If you’re hungry, you need to eat,” says backcountry skiing adventurer and Teton AT blogger Steve Romeo. “Sometimes, when you’re going hard, you don’t feel hungry, so you’ve got to remember to take down a snack every 45 minutes to an hour to get the calories.” A typical day for Romeo includes 4,000 to 6,000 feet of climbing up snowy peaks, so his caloric intake might be a little high for the average resort skier. But the lesson rings true: if you’re getting after it on the mountain — in bounds or out — it’s important to refuel whenever your energy level drops and you begin to feel tired.

Playing by these general rules during the winter doesn’t have to be a challenge. Part of finding perfect winter food is going with your instincts. Your body knows best what it needs, and if you listen closely, it will lead you in the right direction. Often, that’s to your favorite comfort food.

Eating for WinterFind out how the locals eat “winter” foods to keep them fueled, warm and comforted in the cold.By Claire Rabun

This is one of those “everything-but-the-kitchen-sink” recipes that is one of my favorites during the winter months. Acorn squash is an excellent source of beta-carotene (which turns into vitamin A in our bodies) and gives the soup a wonderful, hearty texture when pureed with some of the white beans. Pair this with some hearty whole-grain bread for a satisfying meal. For a vegetarian version of this soup, omit the chicken, add more white beans and use a vegetarian broth.

2 teaspoons olive oil2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts 1 acorn squash, peeled, seeded and cut into one-inch cubes1 medium onion, chopped1 cup mushrooms, sliced1 fresh lemon, half juiced and the other half cut into wedges for garnish1 cup cooked brown (or mix of brown and wild) rice1 cup cooked or canned white beans2 cups chicken broth2 cups water1 / 2 teaspoon lemon thyme1 / 2 teaspoon dried sage1 / 4 teaspoon dill weed1 / 2 teaspoon oregano4-5 cloves fresh garlic, pressed or finely choppedSalt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• In a Dutch oven or large pot, saute olive oil, onion, squash cubes, garlic and mushrooms for about 5 minutes. Add salt, herbs and spices, and continue to saute another few minutes or until onions are translucent.

• Add water, chicken broth and chicken, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, and cook chicken for 8 to 10 minutes. Remove chicken from pot, cool, and shred it and set aside.

• Remove most of the chunks of squash with a slotted spoon, and place it in a food processor or blender with 1/4 cup of white beans. (It’s okay if some of the other sauteed veggies sneak in there too.)

• Puree until smooth then return to pot and add remaining 3 / 4 cup of white beans, cooked rice, the juiced half of the lemon, ground pepper and shredded chicken. Stir thoroughly, and, when all ingredients are heated through, serve with lemon wedges.

Note About Spices:

Herbs and spices are a great way to flavor your food, and many are rich sources of compounds that can help lower cholesterol, balance blood sugar, fight cancer cells and more.

Buying bulk dried herbs and spices, especially during the colder months when fresh are less available and more expensive, is an economical way to try new spices. Plus, you can buy a small amount of the ones you don’t use much and keep them fresh. I save any small glass jars I get or reuse spice containers for storing these bulk herbs and spices.

–Mary Ryan

Lemon Chicken and White Bean Soup

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“Comfort foods get a bad rap,” Ryan says. “There is something important about honoring what comforts us — even if it is food. Hot, homemade soup and bread is my favorite winter meal, and I definitely feel nurtured after eating this meal on a cold winter evening.”

Wright feels the same way. She says she always craves french fries after a long training day in the snow. Sometimes, she’ll let herself indulge.

And Romeo? This off-piste, hard man needs his end-of-day carbs. “I love pasta, no matter what kind it is,” he says. “When I get home after a big day on the mountain, I just need to refuel and relax.”

The verdict is this: pay attention to what your body wants, and don’t be afraid to eat it. You crave “winter” foods in the colder months because they protect your body from the elements and provide the nutrients, calories and function you need to feel good and stay warm. So go ahead and eat up after you’ve been outside. Your body will thank you.

Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner7:30 A.M.

to 9:00 P.M.

130 North CacheA half block fromthe Town Square

307-733-5474 • www.bunnery.com

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a collector’s jewelry boxTAYLOE PIGGOTT JEWELRY

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the valley — Aspens Market, Pearl Street Meat and Fish, Jackson Whole Grocer — by 7 a.m.

With the pastries gone, the chefs concentrate on the breads. After the loaves — multi-grain, baguettes, ciabatta, pain au levain, whole-wheat, sesame semolina, currant walnut, brioche — cool, they’re slid into white paper bags with the bakery’s simple blue and brown logo and sent out into the valley where they’re usually on shelves by 9:30 a.m. Persephone bread also goes to valley restaurants. Trio serves the multi-grain, and Snake River Grill uses Persephone’s ciabatta.

And that’s most of the work for the day. But not all.

A quick break and the crew is back at it, shaping the larger loaves to bake the next day. Persephone does cakes, tarts and cupcakes, too. This summer, the fruit in the fruit tarts was usually dependent on what was available at the weekly Jackson Hole Farmers Market, where Persephone also has a stand. This winter, Cohane is going to do more packaged cookies — think macarons — and start a line of crackers.

Aspens Market and Jackson Whole Grocer carry all of Persephone’s sweet treats. It’s also possible to special order directly from the bakery. If a special order is large enough, Persephone will happily deliver it.

Even if the white delivery van is out, Persephone is easy to pick out in the warren of steel buildings around Enclosure Climbing Gym. Written in the windows of its large roll-up door is “eat more cake.” Walk inside, and, if you’ve timed your pick-up correctly, you’re embraced by one of the best smells in the world: that of freshly baked bread. Perhaps there’s a loaf you can add to your cake order.

Persephone’s cakes are among the best food buys in the valley. They’re not the works of art as are those of Oscar Ortega over at Atelier Ortega, but then they’re only about half the price. The red velvet cake is one of the best we’ve ever had.

Persephone is open, baking and delivering their breads and pastries to markets and restaurants seven days a week. Cohane recently took four days off to marry Scheier, his first “vacation” since opening. Bread still went out three of those days, though.

It’s 3:30 a.m. when Kevin Cohane’s alarm goes off. It’s dark outside. And its cold. But the 31-year-old Jackson resident doesn’t seem to care. Cohane is on a mission. No, it’s not skiing. Cohane is off to bake the most amazing artisanal bread around. He and his wife, Ali Scheier, opened Persephone Bakery in April 2011.

Yes, Cohane took his first kitchen job in the valley — at Blue Lion way back in 2003 — so he could spend his days skiing. Having studied biology and taken a fair amount of chemistry in college, the Connecticut native quickly became attracted to the precision and science of baking. Baking didn’t give him the rush skiing did, but he liked the challenge.

By 2007, he was ready to put skiing on hold to move to Paris and spend a year at Le Cordon Bleu. Cohane didn’t speak any French when he arrived in France. A year later, he was fluent in “kitchen French” and the fine art of baking. Back stateside, he spent two years practicing what he had learned — and translating his kitchen French back into English — at Fox & Obel bakery in Chicago’s Streeterville. “The plan all along was to return to Jackson Hole though,” he says. He and then-fiancé/now-wife Scheier, finally made it back in 2010.

This time Cohane moved to Jackson to bake, not ski. “I knew restaurants were interested in high-quality bread, and there wasn’t anyone doing it at the time,” he says. For those not up on the Greek mythology, Persephone is the daughter of Demeter, the goddess of growth and grain, and pronounced per-sef-o-nee (not purse-a-phone). Cohane handles the bread, and Scheier does sales and marketing. “It started off way faster than I thought it would,” he says. “I don’t think I’ll be skiing too much this winter.”

The 3:30 a.m. wake-up is actually easier on Cohane than his schedule the first several months of Persephone’s life. “We were working so hard at the beginning that we had a blow-up mattress in the bakery’s office,” says Scheier. “We spent quite a few nights there grabbing just a couple of hours of sleep before we got up to do it all again.”

The difference isn’t that Persephone has found quicker ways to do things — “Part of what makes our bread so good is that it’s not rushed,” Cohane says — but that the couple hired employees.

Cohane rolls into the bakery, which is tucked into the industrial area south of town, around 4 a.m. An employee shortly follows. Since Persephone’s massive, custom German-made Wienshau steam convection deck oven turned itself on around 3 a.m., it is ready and waiting by the time the bakers arrive. Bigger loaves were formed the day prior and left to ferment overnight. They go into the oven now along with breakfast pastries also formed the previous day.

While the Wienshau is working its 480-degree Fahrenheit magic on its stone hearth, Cohane and crew are mixing, dividing and shaping the smaller breads — foccacia, brioche and ciabatta. While the different breads call for different flours, all of the flour Persephone uses has to meet Cohane’s basic requirements: it must be organic, unbleached and unbromated. Central Milling, outside of Logan, Utah, less than 200 miles away, has flours that fit the bill.

But back to the bread: by the time the bigger loaves and breakfast pastries are done and yeasty, and caramel-y goodness has permeated the air, the smaller stuff is ready for its turn in the deck oven.

“There are, like, seven things going on at once,” Cohane says of the morning routine. “When I was doing it myself, it was hectic, to say the least. But now that I have help, we get a kind of production line going. There’s someone mixing, shaping, baking, packaging ... although there’s usually only two people working, so it’s not a full production line. Everyone is still doing more than one thing at a time.”

The breakfast pastries — cinnamon rolls, croissants and various other viennoiseries — are the first things to head out. They’re at Persephone’s retail outlets around

FOR LOVE AND LOAVESOne couple is bringing artisanal breads and French pastries to Jackson.

By Dina MishevPhotos By Katy Parins Gray

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®

Marmot

Double

Chair

Marmot

Double

Chair

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5

7

2

1Corbet’s CabinIn this quaint cabin, you’ll find a popular, laid-back hangout any time of day. Make a stop here before your first turns for homemade waffles filled with a choice of brown sugar, Nutella or fruit. Made-to-order and topped with whipped cream, these “top of the world” waffles are a great morning snack or end of the day treat. Tram operators are known to seek unique flavor combinations; ask your operator for an insider tip! Open from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Couloir RestaurantEating at Couloir is a don’t-miss! It’s easier than ever with the Marmot lift, new this winter. Coming from the base? Ride the Bridger Gondola to meet family and friends for an award-winning experience. On a clear day, the view will be just as memorable as the day of skiing, as floor-to-ceiling windows provide panoramas of the snow-capped peaks for miles. Grab a mid-day glass of wine or a bone-warming spirit from the full bar, then order some shared starters such as fresh ahi poke. There are a variety of salads — try the smoked duck cobb with organic greens, Marcona almonds, pears, bacon and Boursin tossed in a cranberry vinaigrette — and sandwiches, such as the house cured Reuben with local Kobe brisket and cheese from a dairy in nearby Idaho. Dinner is served Thursdays and Fridays. Lunch is offered daily.

Casper Restaurant Head to Casper Restaurant for comfort ski-food with a gourmet twist. With a deck for a sunny day and a fireplace on snowy days, this is a perfect mid-mountain resting spot. Here you’ll find designer-grilled sandwiches with locally raised beef, natural chicken breast or a veggie patty option. The burrito bar offers fillings such as Kurobuta pork and ancho-spiced chicken. A combination of grab-n-go and freshly cooked items mean this ski-in, ski-out stop can be as quick or long as you like. A warm-up station serves hot drinks with an extra kick or hot chocolate for the kids. Open 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Avoid the lunch rush from noon to 1 p.m.

RendezvousNothing warms up the body like a steaming bowl of soup. So when you need a quick warm-me-up, head inside to Rendezvous for a comforting bowl of pho. Jack-son Hole’s first pho bar starts with a rich beef broth (there’s also a vegetarian broth option). Add in fresh ingredients such as cabbage, bok choy and peppers, then top with basil or cilantro. While this is a good, healthy alternative to ski food, if it’s ski food you’re after, Rendezvous also offers a salt-baked Idaho potato bar with condiments ranging from chili to pico de gallo to truffle butter and sour cream. Still not satisfied? Grab chicken pot pie, game stew topped with a fresh biscuit or a veggie burger from the grill. There’s even a salad bar for mom. Insider tip: Make sure to arrive before noon for the best seats. Lunch daily

Mountain DiningTop to BottomBy Cara Rank

Remember when eating at a ski resort meant a no-frills hot dog or a basic hamburger in a cafeteria? In recent years, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort has taken on-mountain dining to a new altitude. With upscale and casual restaurants and a dedication to providing quality ingredients at a good value, on-mountain eating has come a long way. Award-winning Executive Chef Wes Hamilton oversees culinary experiences at the resort’s seven restaurants and strives to create menus that offer a variety of comfort foods and healthy options with high quality ingredients. And the hot dog? That’s not a gas-grilled weiner they’re serving up, but instead Kobe beef in a handmade pretzel roll. You’ll be pleasantly surprised to discover the patties are made of all-natural beef sourced from Double R Ranch.

Sixty percent of menu products come from within a 500-mile radius, no small undertaking for this winter outpost. Expect that most of the items are created with the best-quality, regionally supplied ingredients, which means better tasting and fresh food options for you and your family.

Just like the mountain itself, every dining location is worth exploring. Visit an old favorite, or discover a new culinary experience. Here’s how to eat your way across the mountain’s dining options.

Headwall Pizza and Dog HouseDownstairs, you’ll disover plenty of options at this casual restaurant designed for the active skier or snowboarder. Gourmet hot dogs made from Snake River Farms beef are served in a pretzel bun made especially for the resort by a regional baker. Opt for a traditional dog with mustard and relish, or venture into new terrain with El Patron, a Kobe dog topped with guacamole, pico de gallo, roasted jalapeno rel-ish and topped with tortilla strips. You’ll also find pizzas by the slice, soups and gourmet grab-n-go items. The espresso bar here serves gourmet coffee, a blend customized for the resort, and tea drinks all day. Breakfast and lunch daily 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Cafe 6311This slopeside restaurant serves up great breakfast and lunch options. Start the day with toasted bagels, breakfast burritos, espressos and coffees. Cafe 6311 offers some of the healthiest, most delicious options on the mountain, with a full menu of designer wraps and hearty soups. Order the curry chicken salad, the Spicy Charlie — albacore tuna and melted cheese — or the roast beef with cheddar. Vegetarian or not, you have to try the Mo’Roccan, a wrap of house-made, roasted red pepper hummus, sliced veggies and feta with a lemon-mint vinaigrette. Need more convincing? Sources say Chef Hamilton eats here more than anywhere else. Open 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.

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6Nick Wilson’s Bar and GrillNick Wilson’s does triple duty, serving breakfast and lunch before a lively après ski crowd. Before your first run pick up a grab-and-go breakfast bur-rito or egg sandwich or simply sit down for pancakes. For lunch, choose from a variety of grill items, pizza on house-made dough and soups and salads. At apres, this local’s hangout transforms into a bustling end-of-day scene to rehash the fun over daily drink specials. Make sure not to miss the tempura-battered portobello fries with sweet chili and garlic cream dipping sauces. The traditional pub fare options such as hot wings, nachos and house-made potato chips are always a hit. Open from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m., with apres starting at 3 p.m.

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Chef’s Knife

This long, standard knife can range in size from 6 to 10 inches. The popular santoku also fits in this category. The larger size is the knife-of-choice for professionals and people with great chopping skills. This knife should be your “do all, 90 percent of the time” knife. A good rule of thumb is this: If you are chopping on a cutting board, you should almost always be using your chef’s knife. It can be used to rock from the tip, chop straight up and down or with long slicing strokes for soft food. You should select this knife based on how it feels in your hand and how comfortable you feel using it.

Bread Knife

Use this serrated knife for soft food that tends to smash when you cut it: tomatoes, soft meats and, of course, bread. Use a back and forth slicing motion rather than pressing straight down so that you don’t smoosh the food.

Paring Knife

Choose this smaller knife, which ranges in size from 2 to 4 inches, for cutting food while holding it in your hand. Use this for prepping fruits and vegetables; to remove stems, cores, bruises and skins; and for decorative or precision cutting.

Petty Knife

Opt for this utility knife for everything else, from boning to filleting to cutting up fruits and vegetables. “I use this one second most often,” Milligan says. “Everybody loves it. Folks who are intimidated by larger knives can use this as their all-around chef knife.”

Get Sharp

Whether it’s to slice bread for your morning toast or to chop an onion to make the evening’s Bolognese, most of us use a kitchen knife every day. But are you using the right knives? Do you even have the proper knives in your kitchen quiver? And, most importantly, are you holding it correctly?

Even though I cook every day, I know I’m a sloppy chopper and don’t always follow the suggested rules on how to hold a knife properly. I’ve tried a few times, but it feels awkward and slows down my chopping. So I called in resident expert Corey Milligan to get his input and advice. Since he is in the business of making knives, and knows and follows the rules, he shared these tips for getting more efficient and effective in the kitchen.

General Knife Holding Tips and Techniques

1. Start with a comfortable grip. Pinch the knife blade directly in front of the handle between the thumb and fore finger

2. Wrap your fingers around the knife handle. Turn your thumb in to pinch the blade.

3. Wrap your index finger around the blade between the edge and the handle.

4. Wrap your remaining fingers around the handle in a comfortable grip.

5. Keep a happy medi-um for the grip. It’s not so much about squeez-ing the knife, and you don’t want to choke the knife.

6. Start to chop. The control should come from the pinch and levering of the knife.

It’s All About the Other Hand

The hand that isn’t holding the knife is the key to good food prep. Your off-hand is used to control the knife blade and the thickness of the cut and to feed the food into the knife. 1. Curl your fingertips under the rest of your hand and grip what-ever you are cutting with them (this is very important as finger-tips sticking out can get cut).

2. Rest the side of the knife blade against the flat of your finger be-tween the first and second knuckle. This may seem scary, but it is much safer to be in contact with the knife blade at all times. Most chefs can finely slice food without even looking at it.

3. Use your thumb to feed the food under the knife. Keep your thumb well away from the knife’s edge.

4. Keep the tips of your fingers on the hand that’s hold-ing the food curled under. Though it may feel unnatural if you haven’t done it a lot, you will get used to it. Use your knuckles to guide the food along.

Four Essential Knives Every Cook Should Own

Jackson-based New West KnifeWorks was founded by Corey Milligan 15 years ago. A former commercial cook turned knife maker, Corey started his business selling knives at the local art shows. Today, they have been seen at the finest arts and craft shows in the country as well as in fine kitchen stores throughout the U.S. They have been featured in many of the nation’s top food and lifestyle magazines, including be-ing called “our favorite knives” by Saveur.

New West KnifeWorks’ owner demonstrates how to use a knife and which blade to choose for certain foods.By Allison Arthur Photos By Kelli Baxendale

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DISHINGRESTAURANT LISTINGSA guide to some of the best places to dine in and around Jackson Hole

Cafe GenevieveBreakfast, lunch and dinner in a historic log cabin135 E. Broadway307.732.1910 | www.genevievejh.com

Huevos con chili verde with house-made green chile, refried beans and flour tortilla

Cajun eggs benedict with house-made Cajun sausage and home-style potatoes

Smoked barbecue pulled pork sandwich with slow roasted pork, house-made peach barbecue sauce and hand-cut fries

Fried green tomatoes with crawfish remoulade

Pork belly lettuce wraps with pickled carrots, cucumber, basil, mint and cilantro

Pig Candy. This novelty menu item is more than a catchy name. It is the dish people will be talking about long after they snack on it, and the item people should always order, whether on top of a salad, the burger or as a starter. It’s that good. But don’t stop there. This southern-inspired menu offers classics that can be hard to find out West, such as fried chicken and waffles and crawfish etouffe. Cafe Genevieve is open all day long. Belly up to the bar during happy hour and sip on delicious specialty cocktails everyday from 3 to 5:30 p.m. Don’t miss out on some of the best brunch in town, served until 3 p.m. daily. In the winter, brunch features an all-you-can-drink mimosa special. Cafe Genevieve is also rumored to have the best fries in town.

Menu Sampling

The following pages contain a select sample of some of the best restaurants in Jackson Hole. While some of them are high-end spots, that is not a requirement. We are also fond of pizza by the slice.

The main thing each restaurant in Dishing has in common is that these places fall into the category of spots not to miss. The listings are intended to give you a taste of what it is like to eat at each place – both visually and with sample menu items. The write-ups include tips that we hope will offer the reader the best dining experiences, as well as some of our favorite dishes.

While this list is not completely comprehensive, it is a good start to finding the best spots for breakfast, lunch and dinner around. For more information on any of these restaurants, please visit www.dishing.com. Bon Appetit!

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Cascade Restaurant and BarRegional cuisine served in a cozy settingOpen breakfast, lunch and dinner | Teton Mountain Lodge307.732.6932 | www.tetonlodge.com

Lomo Saltado, a South Dakota buffalo hangar steak with onion, tomato, Peruvian chili and fingerling potatoes

Dry-aged ground buffalo sliders topped with pancetta, oven-dried tomato, arugula, white cheddar and truffle aioli

Wyomato salad with wild arugula, caramelized fennel, Lark Meadow Farms Dulcinea cheese and tarragon dressing

Snake River Farms Kurobuta pork chop with scalloped sweet potatoes and blackberry ginger sauce

You won’t find the secret nacho special “The Anchor” anywhere on Executive Chef Kevin Humphreys’ menu. But when others overhear you order the platter of tortilla chips smothered with blue cheese and buffalo-wing-style chicken, they’ll think you’re a local. And that’s just what this popular apres hangout is from 4 to 6 p.m. every day in winter: a bustling hotspot for the Jackson Hole ski crowd. Tables are packed with people thirsty for drink specials and hungry for platters of food that are meant to be shared. Just don’t try to order The Anchor before 4 p.m. because the kitchen won’t allow any of its mountain-sized platters of nachos to be devoured until then. When the ski crowd departs after 6 p.m., Cascade’s menu turns decidedly more upscale, featuring unique favorites such as smoked pheasant raviolis and stout-braised buffalo short ribs. Humphreys sources as much as he can locally, from the Pinedale-grown tomatoes (called Wyomatoes) to the sheep’s milk cheese made 50 miles away in Idaho.

Menu Sampling

Cellar’s Restaurant at The White Buffalo ClubCasual fine dining in an intimate settingOpen nightly at 5 | 160 W. Gill Avenue888.256.8182 | www.whitebuffaloclub.com

Beef tartare with USDA Prime beef tenderloin, diced and mixed with capers, cornichons, shallots and herbs and served with crisp grilled bread and Dijon mustard

Wedge salad layered with iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, red onion and applewood smoked bacon, ranch dressing and crumbled blue cheese

Ahi tuna marinated in yuzu vinaigrette served in crispy Gyoza taco shells with Napa cabbage slaw finished with Asian guacamole and mango chutney

Seared steelhead trout on a bed of sautéed fresh sweet corn, bacon, shitake mushrooms and a Wyomato-chipotle relish

This dimly lit restaurant offers an atmosphere where you can huddle into a booth with a glass of wine, reminisce about your day and enjoy an amazing meal without feeling rushed. This 16-table steakhouse and dining bar has been a well-kept secret in Jackson, only open to club members until last summer, when the public was finally allowed to enjoy the sophisticated, but simple, steakhouse menu. The corkwood flooring, stone walls, wood wainscoting and luxurious leather upholstery will remind you of a classic New York City standard. With a selection of 1,100 bottles of vintage wines and USDA Prime steaks that are 28-day, dry- and wet-aged, and butchered in-house, this is the perfect respite for a cold, blustery winter night. Don’t miss the pear and brie salad or any of the side dishes, especially the mac and cheese, which is served bubbling out of a crock pot.

Menu Sampling

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Couloir Restaurant & BarFine dining with altitudeOpen 5:30 p.m. Thursday and Friday for dinner, lunch daily307.739.2675 | www.jacksonhole.com

Pan-seared Hudson Valley foie gras with pearl onion confit, cinnamon toast and anise syrup

Endive, apple and pear salad with local blue cheese, spiced walnut and Banyuls vinegar

Pan-roasted local white sturgeon with mustard spaetzle, brussel sprouts and cider butter

Aged gold Wagyu striploin of beef with cauliflower-marrow gratin, wilted frise and truffle jus

Hoison-glazed duck breast with confit dumplings, raw salad and soy-ginger broth

This could be the most unique table in Jackson, after all, you’ll be dining at 9,095 feet and .5 miles above the valley floor. Recognized with the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence (Sept. 2011), dining at Couloir is an incomparable experience. Start the evening on the Bridger Gondola, where you’ll wrap yourself with warmed blankets (provided) for the ride to the top. Then, let Executive Chef Wes Hamilton wow you with American cuisine with Rocky Mountain roots. The four-course tasting menu ($89 per person or $149 with wine pairing) starts with an amuse bouche then moves to a selection of starters. After choosing from three intermezzo plates, you’ll have a hard time picking one of Hamilton’s creative entrees. His signature is a house-smoked buffalo tenderloin. While this is dining with altitude, it’s also dining with with a conscience. Couloir adheres to a sustainable policy, promising the majority of ingredients come from within 250 miles. Dinner served Thursday and Friday, lunch daily.

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cocoloveA European style chocolate, pastry, gelato and coffee bar

55 N. Glenwood Street | Wort Plaza

307.733.3253 | www.atelierortega.com

Asparagus or spinach soufflé with applewood smoked bacon and potato hash, oyster mushroom sabayon drizzle

Hot cereal made with steel-cut oats, brown butter financier, foamed milk and berries

Artisan chocolates including balsamic and honey, chipotle-chile, cabernet reduction, cardamom, caramelized ginger and white tea, coconut-lime, almond-praline … almost forty amazing flavor combinations

A flavorful assortment of viennoiserie (croissant- ‐style pastries) made from scratch daily

Gelato and sorbet including basil-pear, hazelnut-praline, coconut-yuzu, pistachio, espresso, mango, plus all the classic flavors all home-made in our own kitchen

Mexican hot “coco” made with hand ground Atelier Ortega chocolate, cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla, anise, cardamom, roasted chilies topped with chantilly cream

Walk one block west of the Town Square, and you’ll think you’ve crossed the Atlantic and landed in Paris. This sophisticated coffee and dessert bar by world-famous pastry chef Oscar Ortega is a retreat from the typical western vernacular of Jackson. With pastry-lined cases brimming with beautiful treats and fresh gelato, you will be hard-pressed to order just one item. Not to worry, you can sip a perfectly made latte while you contemplate your choices. The café’s soothing atmosphere is the ideal setting for the beginning of your day, an afternoon break, or your post-dinner indulgence.

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DolceHand-roasted coffee, desserts, doughnuts, breakfast tacos and frozen yogurt

Open daily from 8 a.m.-10 p.m. | 160 N. Cache307.200.6071 | www.dolcejh.com

Coffee drinks, including Cappuccino, Americano, Cafe Au Lait and espresso

Doughnuts with a trio of dipping sauces

Assorted frozen yogurt flavors, including tart, vanilla, chocolate, cake batter, strawberry, mango, and cookies and cream

Gourmet cakes, cupcakes, and pastries

Breakfast tacos

Believe it or not, Jackson Hole saw its first frozen yogurt shop open just this year with Dolce. While the temperature may seem a little cold for fro yo, Dolce offers a variety of other items to satisfy any sweet tooth. Try the handmade doughnuts, cooked fresh to order and served with a trio of dipping sauces, or choose from the lineup of gourmet desserts. With so many options — and late hours — you can take a break from the slopes and park it here all day. To go along with the sweets, grab a cup of gourmet coffee. You pick from the 14 types of beans from around the world, and staff will roast it on the spot in about 10 minutes. If it’s frozen yogurt that you crave, the variety of flavors boast numerous benefits. Made from California milk, they contain health-supporting probiotics and use only wholesome sweeteners. Yogurt is all organic, and owner Joe Rice says it is Jackson’s only all-organic fro yo.

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Ignight GrillSushi and an array of optionsOpen nightly at 5 | 945 W. Broadway307.734.1997 | www.ignightjacksonhole.com

Chicken sliders served on fresh baguette with roasted sweet peppers, asiago cheese, arugula, and chipotle aioli

Sopressata and prosciutto flatbread with sautéed onions, fresh tomatoes, mozzarella, Asiago and arugula

Hamachi and spicy salmon tartare topped with scallions, mango, and tobiko

Seared albacore, avocado and cucumber, topped with salmon tartare, Sriracha aioli, scallions, tobiko and sprouts

Meyer’s Ranch all-natural New York Steak with a whiskey butter compound

Walking into Ignight, you’ll think you’re at a New York City club where bottle service is usually a must. Don’t let the sleek, modern look fool you. Blue Collar Restaurant Group continues its mission to make good food accessible to everyone with Ignight. Here, you’ll find specialty cocktails made with freshly squeezed juices, sushi and an array of options, such as sliders, pizzas and sandwiches, to please even the pickiest eaters. It’s a great choice for a date night or a leisurely dinner with the a group of friends. Begin the evening with the not-to-be-missed Elk Hunter, a cocktail of tequila, grapefruit and agave syrup served in a sea-salt-lined glass. If you like sushi, you can’t go wrong with any one of the rolls that can be made with white or brown rice. Do yourself a favor, and order the signature Ignight Roll, which comes with sesame-seared albacore tuna, avocado, soft shell crab and sprouts topped with hot sesame wasabi aioli, Asian pear and tobiko. Dining with someone who doesn’t like raw fish? Then choose the chicken sliders with a side of fries.

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Il Villaggio OsteriaRustic Italian bistro in Teton VillageOpen for lunch and dinner every day in the winter | In Hotel Terra

307.739.4100 | www.jhosteria.com

Pork tenderloin wrapped in porchetta - pea potato cake, braised red cabbage, caramelized cipollini, taggiasca olives

Shaved porchetta and wild arugula - roasted grape tomatoes, toasted pine nut, charred celery and Parmesan salad

Porcini-infused spaghetti - braised rabbit, cannelini beans, San Marzano tomatoes, marjoram, mushrooms

Italian-style “corn dog” - fontina fontal, San Daniele prosciutto, semolina batter, calabrese pepper ketchup

That’s Amore pizza chicken meatball and basil pesto, sunny side-up egg, shaved fennel, ricotta salata, calabrese pepper, Wyomatoes

This bustling hot spot is reminiscent of a Mario Batali restaurant, with a menu that could rival any of his. A wood oven fires perfect pizzas in unique combinations (think fig and speck or braised rabbit and mascarpone cheese), and the menu offers a great selection of starters, homemade pastas and seasonal salads. Sit at the wine bar if you don’t have a dinner reservation and nosh on plates of sausage-stuffed olives, salumi and imported cheese. Whatever you order, accompany it with a side of brussel sprouts, which are fried and washed in a tangy pomegranate sauce. It is also a great option for lunch in the winter. Don’t worry if you are wearing your ski boots, others will be too.

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The KitchenModern American cuisineOpen nightly at 5:30 | 155 N. Glenwood

307.734.1633 | www.thekitchenjacksonhole.com

Fried shishito peppers tossed with olive oil and sea salt

Luxury shrimp, a crisp fried rock shrimp with sweet aoili

Ceviche with the freshest market fish, fresh lime and jalapeno salsa

Pan seared red deer with shiitakes, sherried cherries, garlic, sage and sweet brown rice

Blue cornmeal crusted trout with pasilla chile-pecan slaw and a smokey ancho-brown butter sauce

If there’s a dish that’s a must-try at The Kitchen, it’s Jarrett Schwatrz’s specialty from the crudo bar: truffled tuna. This dish — featuring ahi sashimi rolled around tuna tartare and drizzled with an Asian truffle sauce — is a favorite of anyone who tries it. Diners have been known to order one. Then another. And then, another. But don’t stop there! The cuisine at The Kitchen embraces various culinary techniques, featuring dishes from crudo to pasta, that come together in a seamless, refined way. They are complemented with an interesting cocktail and wine list. Dishes are crafted from all-natural, small-farm meats, seasonal vegetables and sustainable, fresh fish. Save room for dessert. The fresh-baked cast iron cookie topped with vanilla ice cream is worth it.

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Merry PigletsFresh Tex-Mex foodOpen daily from 11:30 a.m-9:30 p.m. | 160 N. Cache307.733.2966 | www.merrypiglets.com

Baja Roll with shredded chicken or shrimp rolled in a flour tortilla with a spicy jalapeño cream cheese, fresh spinach, chopped tomatoes and guacamole. Served with creamy salsa verde and black beans

Tamales filled with beef and cheese and topped with our green chile sauce

Fish tacos with flame-grilled mahi-mahi served inside a corn tortilla, topped with homemade ginger slaw, mango salsa, green onion and cilantro aioli sauce

Piglet Sampler, a choice of “old school taco” (lettuce, cheese, tomato) or “street taco” (cilantro and onion only) and one beef, chicken, pork, or cheese enchilada and one chimichanga. Topped with sour cream and choice of sauce

Warning: You may be tempted to eat too many of Merry Piglet’s fresh chips and homemade salsa. Add the creamy queso dip, and you’ve surely ruined your dinner. It’s happened to many a local. Save room. Inside the bright walls of this 42-year-old eatery, you’ll find standard, delicious Mexican fare at great prices. Once you sip a house-made margarita, you’ll be glad you stopped by. Everything on the menu is made in-house and fresh to order. The diverse menu offers enough options for the entire family. Meats are pasture-raised and hormone free. Fish for the incredible fish tacos is line-caught. The chicken fajita salad is a good alternative to one of the combo meals, but all are good options depending on your appetite. For vegetarians, opt for the spinach quesadillas, which are loaded with fresh spinach and jack cheese. The margarita options will keep you in your seat long enough to digest it all.

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Million Dollar Cowboy SteakhouseSteak and game in a historic Town Square buildingOpen nightly at 5:30 | 84 E. Broadway307.733.4790 | www.cowboysteakhouse.net

Crispy buffalo-stuffed ravioli with light basil pesto cream sauce and tomato and arugula salad

Lager battered onion rings with barbecue and ranch dipping sauce

Cornmeal and almond-crusted rainbow trout with horseradish-spiked potatoes, garlicky spinach and sweet corn salsa

Prime sirloin, herbed garlic fries, caramelized onions and house-made steak sauce

Wild game Bolognese with fettucini pasta

When you think of Jackson cuisine, steak and game certainly come to the top of your mind. There is no better place to kick up your boots and enjoy a casual but fine dining experience than at the Cowboy Steakhouse. With its cozy booths covered in knotty pine wood, the setting is as western as the movie “Shane.” There is an underground “burger special” locals won’t always tell you about, offering a special deal if you are seated before 6:30, but you may not want to pass up the buffalo rib eye, which is a whopping 22 ounces but worth every last bite. Don’t forget to finish the meal with a creme brulee or a warm bread pudding.

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Pinky G’s PizzeriaNew York-style pizza served by the slice all day and all nightOpen daily from 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m. | 50 W. Broadway307.734.PINK | www.pinkygs.com

The Powder Hound pizza with buffalo mozzarella, Parmesan, whole-milk ricotta, garden fresh basil with a garlic olive oil sauce

The Porky G, pulled pork sandwich North Carolina style with barbecue sauce and crispy slaw

Strombolis and calzones with the toppings of your choice

Chicken wings nine ways: mild, hot, teriyaki, hot teriyaki, lemon-pepper, barbecue, honey mustard, hot honey, garlic

Plenty of critics have moved to Jackson, declaring that no pizza can compare to their hometown favorite. That’s until Pinky G’s opened last summer. Seek out this hidden gem for unique pizzas such as the Abe Froman, with spiced Italian sausage, buffalo mozzarella and fresh, chopped basil or the Funky Chicken, with a basil pesto sauce, artichoke hearts, red onions, whole-milk ricotta and pulled, roasted chicken. You’ll leave claiming Jackson’s pizza can compare with any big city pie. Owner Tom Fay is rumored to have the best pizza-tossing skills in town, having learned in a famed Colorado pizzeria before attending culinary school in Charleston, S.C. With that background, you’ll find more than just a delicious slice in this charming spot. Families and the lunch crowd will be satisfied with the diverse sandwich and salad options alongside southern favorites. The eat-in bar is a convenient option for a quick meal. The list of not-to-be missed items include the southern-style pulled pork sandwich, chicken parmesan and a Chicago-style hot dog. Huge slices go for only $3, and delivery is available. This spot is also a late-night mecca, open till 2 a.m.

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The Peak at The Four SeasonsA lively apres ski scene with tavern-style foodLunch from 11 a.m.-3 p.m. daily; Apres ski from 3-8 p.m daily307.732.5000 | www.fourseasons.com/jacksonhole

Truffle deviled egg with chorizo and chimichurri

Crab and white cheddar fondue

Korean-style short ribs with Asian slaw

Sea bass tacos with crushed avocado, pico de gallo, watercress and lime

Kitchen burger with Gruyere, arugula, boar bacon, onion marmalade and sea salt post fries

Ski right up to apres at The Peak, where this lively joint is literally the closest you can get to being on the mountain and not actually skiing. Plus, you can warm up by the outdoor fireplaces. Downstairs at Four Seasons Resort, The Peak offers high-energy entertainment and live music alongside the widest selection of local, handcrafted, artisan brews around. The Peak’s fire pit makes this the perfect end-of-day spot. Grab an oversized chair on the outdoor terrace and watch skiers come down the slopes. Snack on a gourmet dog from the hot dog cart or order small plates, including oysters on the half shell, burgers or sea bass tacos. With tavern-style food and prices, weekly specials and live music, The Peak is fast becoming a local’s hot spot. But beware: in such a fun atmosphere, if you stop for lunch and a beer, you may never return to the mountain.

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Q RoadhouseEcclectic roadhouse fare Open nightly at 5 | Happy Hour 5-6 and 8-9 at bar | 2550 Moose Wilson Rd.

307.739.0700 | www.qjacksonhole.com

Treehugger salad of kale, heirloom lettuces, spiced pumpkin and sunflower seeds, roasted cherry tomatoes, red onion in a tahini-soy dressing

Fried green Wyomatoes with spicy crab remoulade

Grilled Georgia quail with corn, bacon, chipotle peppers and cream in a huckleberry gastrique

Sliced beef brisket or St. Louis ribs smoked over apple and hickory wood

The peanut shells peppering the floor of this west bank restaurant are but one of many nods to good ol’ southern comfort. The owners scoured the best barbecue joints in the country to develop Q Roadhouse’s menu — an eclectic mix of down-home staples, roadhouse food and, yes, upper crust cuisine. Even if you’re not a southerner, you’ll love the fried dill pickles served with a spicy remoulade; the hot, peel-and-eat shrimp; or the hush puppies with honey butter. Mouth watering yet? Hang on, because those are just the appetizers. For dinner, choose the sweet-tea-brined fried chicken. But really, you should go for what this place is known for: meat that’s smoked in-house using hybrid fuel and wood. You can’t go wrong with the brisket or the ribs. Can’t decide? Order the barbecue pulled pork sandwich topped with coleslaw.

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Rendezvous BistroClassic bistro fare with a worldly twistOpen nightly at 5:30 | Happy Hour at the bar 5:30-6:30 | 380 S. Broadway

307.739.1100 | www.rendezvousbistro.net

Seared sea scallops - ginger - soy butter, tobiko vinaigrette, crispy red onions

Pork adobo coconut milk, soy sauce and rice vinegar, jasmine rice, pickled vegetables

Indian vegetable plate with curried vegetables, jasmine rice, red lentil dahl, cucumber-tomato raita, pear chutney

Croque madame, an open faced sandwich with proscuitto cotto, Gruyere, fried egg

Since opening a decade ago, this West Jackson establishment is the place to see and be seen in the valley. Locals call it “The Bistro.” You may just find yourself a few booths away from part-time residents Sandra Bullock or Harrison Ford, but this upscale restaurant is so unpretentious, you probably won’t even notice them. More than just a celebrity hangout, The Bistro has made a name for itself with its appealing cuisine. Chef Roger Freedman’s creative take on classic bistro fare has created another type of celebrity, the plated kind. Favorites include elk tartare served with hand-cut potato chips, meatloaf with a tomato, olive, caper sauce and the croque madame. If you like fried chicken, go on a Wednesday, when the dish is the nightly special. Make sure to book a reservation, as this place draws standing-room-only crowds most nights.

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Snake River BreweryClassic neighborhood brew pub with award-winning beersOpen daily for lunch and dinner | 265 S. Millward307.739.2337 | www.snakeriverbrewing.com

Caprese: ripe local Wyomatoes, fresh mozzarella, basil, extra virgin olive oil, sea salt and balsamic reduction

House-made Italian sausage pizza with mushrooms, oregano, onions, marinara, mozzarella and Asiago cheese

Thai chicken pasta: fire-roasted chicken, zucchini, peppers, carrots and green onions in a spicy peanut sauce

Chipolte barbecue ribs: St. Louis-style pork ribs, slow-cooked and fire finished, served with fresh coleslaw

With the honor of twice being recognized as the Small Brewery of the Year, along with having a lively atmosphere, the Snake River Brewery is a great place to go anytime of the day or night. This neighborhood hangout, known as “the Brew Pub,” is always packed with its die-hard regulars, but thankfully the two-story building has a lot of seating for many more. Grab a seat by the fireplace and enjoy the scene while you sip one of the pub’s cold, freshly brewed beers. Can’t decide on just one to try? Order the sampler tray and enjoy a little of each before you select your favorite for the second round. Snack on a homemade warm, soft pretzel or enjoy a pile of crispy fries. For the main meal, you can’t go wrong with the California pizza — a unique crispy pie with a salad on top. Other favorites include the spicy peanut chicken pasta and the classic fish and chips. For lunch, no place in town beats the $7 deal, which offers a great selection of sandwiches and hearty choices for a bargain rate. Don’t miss the homemade s’mores, which are cooked in the wood-fire oven and are, honestly, one of the best desserts in town.

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Sidewinders American Grill and TavernAll-American sports barOpen daily from 11:30 a.m. | Hillside Building on Broadway 307.734.5766 | www.sidewinderstavern.com

Sidewinder pretzel, a jumbo, homemade, soft pretzel stuffed with your choice of cheese, pepperoni or jalapenos

Barbecue ranch salad with avocado, black beans, tomatoes, cucumbers and fried onion slices

Smoked pork ribs, one pound of smoky, succulent ribs served with two sides of choice

Black and Blue burger, blackened and covered with melted blue cheese

Carne asada pizza with grilled skirt steak, mild green chilies and mozzarella cheese, then topped with fresh cilantro

With a game room for the kids, 40 televisions for sports fans and 15 salad options for the ladies, you can’t go wrong coming to “The Winder” — as its affably known among locals — any day for lunch, dinner or a snack. The extensive bar offers 30 beers on tap and many appetizers to munch on next to the fireplace or in front of the big screen sporting events. The comprehensive menu will give you so many choices you may not be able to narrow it down. So don’t. Share a few plates of appetizers such as barbecue nachos, hot wings and cheese fries. Or, opt to build your own whole or slices of pizza (the carne asada is to die for). The menu offers 13 burgers, which can be made in Angus, turkey or buffalo, in many unique combinations. Try the avocado, two patties topped with cheddar and, of course, avocado. If you come on a Sunday during football season, prepare for a party, and pick your seats carefully based on your favorite team’s fans.

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Sweetwater RestaurantCabin restaurant serving “cowboy comfort” food since 1976Open daily for lunch and dinner | 85 King St.307.733.3553 | www.sweetwaterjackson.com

Baja chicken salad: grilled or blackedned chicken breast, Monterey Jack cheese, avocado slices, cherry tomatoes, bell peppers, red onions and crispy tortilla chips over fresh salad greens

Elk melt: 8-ounce fresh elk patty on sourdough with carmelized onions, sauteed mushrooms, Swiss cheese and a side of au jus

Bleu cheese fondue: creamy aged bleu cheese, apple, grape and cantaloupe skewers

Spinach and feta soufflé: our famous layered spinach, tomato and cheese soufflé

Visitors always want to know where they can get a good sandwich. And locals always give them the same response: Sweetwater Restaurant. This historic downtown lunch staple offers a number hearty sandwiches and a dozen salads to select from. With shady, outdoor seating that offers views of Snow King Mountain, and a cozy interior, plan to linger over your lunch at this log cabin. Start by ordering The Sweetwater, a refreshing combination of sweet tea vodka, lemonade and 7Up. Make sure not to miss the gyro (the only spot in Jackson for a gyro). If ordering a salad, choose the feta, herb and garlic salad dressing, which is as old as the 35-year-old restaurant. It will leave you begging for the recipe. But Sweetwater is about more than just lunch. The menu offers an upscale twist on traditional comfort food such as fried green tomatoes and buffalo sloppy joes. The Speedgoat, antelope finished with a demi-glaze and sweet confit tomatoes, is a must-try! Sweetwater restaurant is open for lunch and dinner daily.

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Snake River GrillModern American grillOpen nightly at 6 p.m. | 84 E. Broadway307.733.0557 | www.snakerivergrill.com

Branding iron of sweet onion rings with Snake River Pale Ale batter and two dipping sauces

Wood-oven roasted dates wrapped in applewood smoked bacon with wild boar chorizo

Seared rare ahi tuna BLT with basil, butter lettuce, heirloom tomatoes and garlic aioli

Crispy pork shank with red chile barbecue sauce, roasted corn-black bean salsa and crispy white corn tortillas

Cast iron roasted elk chop with sweet potato cous cous and fresh bing cherry relish

For nearly 20 years, The Snake River Grill is still the local’s favorite go-to place. Whether at the intimate bar, featuring 300 wines and a signature cocktail list, or in the dining room by the roaring fire, it is a “must” for visitors who want at least one amazing meal while in Jackson. The famed chef keeps things fresh, simple and seasonal. The menu is varied and always offers something unique, even for a seasoned foodie (think exotic mushrooms, green chickpeas or fiddlehead ferns). While there are standard favorites (potato pancake with smoked salmon, steak tartare pizza), The Snake River Grill keeps things interesting by switching the menu up frequently and offering nightly specials that prevent regular diners from ever getting bored.

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Garth Dowling Photos

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Trio American BistroServing a variety of cuisines in a relaxed atmosphereOpen nightly at 5:30 | 45 S. Glenwood307.734.8038 | www.bistrotrio.com

BLT soup, a tomato soup with arugula pesto, applewood smoked bacon and sourdough croutons

Pizza with house-ground elk sausage, caramelized onions, marinara and fresh mozzarella

Grilled New York Steak with chimichurri sauce and roasted fingerling potatoes

Sautéed Idaho trout amandine with toasted almonds, brussel sprouts, lemon and brown butter

Wood-oven roasted Berkshire pork chop with mushrooms, gruyere-and-spinach bread pudding and bourbon braised apples

Since opening six years ago, Trio has become a neighborhood favorite, just a quick stroll for downtown residents. The atmosphere is hip, lively and inviting, like dining in a corner bistro in any big city. And the food? Some of the best in Jackson Hole. Start dinner by ordering a specialty cocktail (try an interesting combo such as a pink peppercorn caipirinha). Then, wait to be impressed by chef/owners Will Bradof and Paul Wireman, who pack the restaurant nightly with crowds seeking innovative dishes such as braised elk Bolognese or smoked trout with roasted beets. The well-edited wine selection shows that Bradof and Wireman are just as good with their pairings as they are with their food. Reservations are a must, but if you find yourself without one, try to score a seat at the bar, a favorite spot for splitting a pizza, wild mushroom salad and a bottle of Spanish red wine. There, you’re close enough to watch all the action and be warmed by the wood oven in front of you, that is, if you are not to mesmerized by your own meal.

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Thai Me Up BreweryJackson’s original Thai restaurantOpen nightly at 5 | 75 Pearl St.307.733.0005 | www.thaijh.com

Evil Jungle Prince curry, a kaffir and red bell pepper reduction with broccoli, Thai chile and Thai basil

G-13, with wide rice noodles and vegetables simmered in a house-made coconut curry sauce

Fresh spring rolls with cabbage, rice noodles, mint and cilantro wrapped in rice paper and made within the hour. Served with spicy chile sauce and sweet peanut sauce for dipping

Drunken noodle, rice noddles tossed with oyster sauce, Thai basil and tomatoes

This downtown spot has the notoriety of being the first Thai restaurant in the state of Wyoming. The extensive menu highlights offerings from all regions of Thailand, where the owner learned to cook — sometimes on a train — hence his Train-Style Fried Rice. In addition to the standard Thai favorites, Thai Me Up offers a unique twist — an in-house brewery with a rotating selection of unbelievable West Coast-style microbrews. You won’t find beer like this anywhere else. The bar area also offers a great selection of appetizers such as pot stickers, Thai wings and spring rolls as well as $6 curry specials. If you really want a special evening, start the meal with the flaming 45-ounce Bamboozled (made with house vodka, rum, juice and coconut milk), and who knows where the night will take you. And since you might be here for a while, you will be happy to know that Thai Me Up serves dinner and snacks until about midnight.

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The Wild Sage at The Rusty ParrotIntimate dining in a AAA Four Diamond Award winner

Breakfast, dinner nightly at 5 | 175 N. Jackson Street307.733.2000 | www.rustyparrot.com

Pan-seared diver scallops with house-cured Korubuta pork belly, preserved lemon, capers and sauce vierge

Sweet pepper crab cakes with prawn-sherry cream sauce and fresh dill oil

Duo of Hudson Valley moulard duck foie gras with seared foie gras and cider-poached foie gras torchon with pain perdu and roasted apple chutney

Chicory salad with Belgian endive, red curly endive, butter lettuce, crispy speck ham and applewood-smoked bacon vinaigrette

South Dakota bison oxtail agnolotti with roasted mushrooms, winter black truffles, pecorino romano and braise jus

This cozy, 32-seat restaurant was first known to be the best breakfast in town for its hotel guests. While it may still be hard to get a seat if you don’t have room key, outside guests are now welcome — when space is available — to enjoy the home-baked treats and amazing daily specials. Dinner at The Wild Sage has become the newest, best-kept secret in town with an inventive menu that incorporates game, meat and seafood while sourcing organic, sustainable and regional ingredients as much as possible. The ever-changing options offer seasonal cuisine and suggested by-the-glass wine pairings with each course. Questions about the food? The chef is working within sight in the exhibition-style kitchen and available to discuss dishes. The newest addition to The Wild Sage is a small, sophisticated bar and den area where you can enjoy a drink or reserve the space for private dining opportunities.

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Westbank Grill at The Four SeasonsMountain steakhouse with flavors and ingredients of the American west

Breakfast from 7-11:30 a.m.; lunch from 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Dinner from 6 p.m.

307.732.5000 | www.fourseasons.com/jacksonhole

House made charcuterie, including duck prosciutto, boar bacon, pecan terrine, buffalo jerky and port foie gras pate

Green lip mussels Rockefeller

Spiced apple carpaccio with a spinach, arugula and frisee salad tossed in an Idaho goat cheese dressing

Colorado lamb rack

Snake River Farms Wagyu cuts

Westbank Grill is Jackson Hole’s hidden gem. If you haven’t eaten there, then go now. Located inside Four Seasons Resort, slopeside at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, you will find luxury dining in a comfortable, cozy setting and service that can’t be beat. Embracing the farm-to-table movement, Westbank Grill offers a variety of local options, such as cheeses from Idaho and Utah. The mountain-casual environment offers a warm respite from the chilly slopes, with a large stone fireplace, dynamic open kitchen and stunning views of Rendezvous peak. Prime steaks are cooked on an 1,800-degree infrared grill. Entrées are served with your choice of signature sauces, allowing you to customize the flavors of your meal. The restaurant’s extensive wine list includes 25 wines by the glass. Don’t forget: The restaurant is also open for breakfast and lunch daily. And make sure not to miss the sushi, served daily in the lobby lounge. The tram roll, with lobster, avocado, cucumber, dungeness crab, sweet shrimp and a house sauce will leave you wanting more.

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Meet Jackson Hole’s hungriest Realtor

Thanks to Pinky G’s and Tom Fay.

Brett McPeak, Broker/Owner80 W. Broadway, Jackson, WY307.690.4335 • 307.739.1234

BMcPeak@Wyoming.comwww.Facebook.com/JacksonHoleRealEstate

www.JHObsidian.com

Is your Realtor hungry?In this ever-changing market

you need a motivated Realtor who knows the landscape,

who navigates through banks, and who presents value.

Let me show you I’m not just hungry,

I’m insatiable.

Silver Dollar Grill at The Wort HotelMountain eclectic cuisine

Open daily, breakfast 7-11:00 a.m.; lunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner 5:30-10 p.m.

800.322.2727 | www.worthotel.com/dining-entertainment

Want the same great food but in a more casual atmosphere? Then head next door to the Silver Dollar Bar, a famous watering hole that is a must for any Jackson Hole experience. Sit at the bar, where 2,032 uncirculated 1921 Morgan Silver Dollars are inlaid in its surface. You can select from the full Grill menu in the bar or the bar menu. Here, you must order a famous bartenders margarita, which comes with Jose Cuervo, Patron Citronge, sweet and sour mix, lime juice and a splash of Grand Marnier. The Silver Dollar Bar features free live entertainment Fridays and Saturdays as well as one of the most popular evenings in town: Bluegrass Tuesdays. On Sundays through football season, mix your own bloody mary. And make sure to order up some portobello fries tossed with truffle oil, red pepper flakes, Parmigiano Reggiano and fresh parsley alongside some the elk sliders.

With the addition of former “Top Chef” Assistant Producer and chef Scott Rutter, The Wort Hotel’s Silver Dollar Grill is taking mountain eclectic cuisine to new heights. Yes, some of the old favorites (corn chowder) are still available, but Rutter’s influence elevates this classic institution. The “mountain eclectic” cuisine pays homage to the flavors of Jackson Hole. One item not to miss: the pheasant soup. The pheasant is first given a cold, apple-hickory smoke followed by a hot smoke over a mesquite grill. Then, it’s topped with firecracker sweet corn, sweet potato hay and finished with a pumpkin seed oil. The stars of his entree list include game meats, regionally raised beef and sustainable fish served within 48 hours of begin caught. His specialty is the Snake River Farm American Kobe tenderloin. Another dish to try is the wasabi-encrusted tuna with blood orange citrus ponzu sauce. You’ll leave feeling like you’ve just dined in a celebrity chef’s kitchen. And, you did.

Silver Dollar Bar

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Restaurant Listings

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National Elk Refuge

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Il Villagio Osteria

The Kitchen

Million Dollar Cowboy Steakhouse

Merry Piglet’s

The Peak at the Four Seasons

Pinky G’s Pizzeria

Q Roadhouse

Rendezvous Bistro

Sidewinders AmericanGrill & Tavern

Snake River Brew Pub

Snake River Grill

Sweetwater Restaurant

Thai Me Up Brewery

Trio American Bistro

The Westbank Grill at the Four Seasons

The Wild Sage at theRusty Parrott

Silver Dollar Grill at theWort Hotel

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At one time, Jackson was modeled after European tradition, with fewer one-stop supermarkets and more specialty stores. Particularly, butchers used to figure prominently in Jackson Hole during the 1970s and 1980s. Residents relied on the late Hazen Cotterell, first at Safeway and later at Albertsons, and Rich Bontadelli at Fred’s Market, for special cuts such as a crown roast of lamb for Christmas dinner.

“Your butcher was your guy,” says Paul Bruun, the longtime fishing guide who wrote a food column in Jackson Hole for 20 years. “He knew the way you wanted your meat cut, and he would show you little tips.”

At a time of increasing concern about where food comes from, the local butcher is making a comeback. Whether in a storefront, as at the Aspens Market, or a game processor, such as Ellis Custom Meats in Victor, or even at a restaurant like the Cellar at the White Buf-falo Club, butchers and chefs are touting the benefits of cutting their own meats. Artisan skills are becoming more useful, and food connoisseurs again are appreci-ating the Old World tradition and quality.

“Meat isn’t just something that comes in a Cryovac Styrofoam container,” says Joel Cox, chef and butcher at the Aspens Market, where a sign informed custom-ers that the shop recently received a 639-pound cow. At the Aspens Market, located off Highway 390 to Teton Village, Cox is fast becoming “your guy,” as Bru-un might say, for the west Bank crowd. He and his staff slice the grass-fed cows they receive from Robinson Family Farm and Ranch in Star Valley into short ribs, tomahawk steaks, tri-tip and brisket, among more popular cuts. And they can help customers prepare

those meats as carne asada, beef Bourguignon and other dishes. “We’re developing a clientele and show-ing them what to do with cuts beyond New York strip and tenderloin,” Cox says.

A 27-year-old raised north of Seattle, Cox spent 19 months in Italy studying butchering and meat curing under Dario Cecchini, the famed Tuscan restaurateur. He met Josh Brown, now a member of his staff, while studying in Italy. His pork butcher, Morgan Brown-

low, used to run a hog farm where he fed the animals hazelnuts. Before moving to Jackson, Cox worked on a sustainable farm, preparing fine dinners with meat and produce raised on-site. “Our goal here is to create sustainability with the market itself,” he says. Besides the prime cuts offered in display cases, he grounds beef trimmings for chili sold in the deli, for instance.

The market, which reopened in March under new own-ership, typically receives one cow and two pigs each week from area ranches. The beef comes quartered, and Cox and his staff cut it up in a new refrigerated room. Brownlow slices the pork into chops, loin, belly and ribs, makes coppa out of the shoulder and neck, and grinds trimmings into links of sausage. The men rely on an array of stainless steel and carbon knives for precise cutting.

The goal is to use as much of the cow or pig as possible, partly out of “respect for the animal,” Cox says. So far, the response from customers has been enthusiastic.

“Live and Loin,” reads the slogan across Derek Ellis’ chest, as he closed the door to a cooler where an an-telope carcass hung next to a pig. The T-shirt was a memento from his internship at Fleisher’s, a nationally acclaimed butcher shop in New York’s Hudson Valley. It’s the same shop that was featured in Julie Powell’s book “Cleaving.”

Ellis operates a custom meat processing business for livestock and game in part of caterer Bill Boney’s Wild-wood Room dining hall in Victor. A Teton Valley resident since 1993, Ellis worked at the Cosmic Apple organic farm, and as the farm expanded into raising animals, he saw a business opportunity. When he finished training at Fleisher’s, he started processing game for hunters last fall, and “I was as busy as I could handle,” he says.

Besides handling the harvest from surrounding forests, Ellis takes orders for bundles of lamb, beef and pork. He works with small farmers raising livestock in eastern Idaho. Lamb, typically ordered in halves, has been espe-cially popular. He waits until enough reservations are placed to account for a whole animal, then butchers the meat. “I’m supporting those people who use good prac-tices and a chemical-free process for raising animals,” he says.

Ellis Custom Meats also makes sausage, a niche that sets it apart from other game processors. Ellis uses suet, or mutton fat, from locally raised stock to add fat to game sausage and burger, as desired. He adds no ni-trates to his sausage and bacon, opting instead for salt, freezing and hot smoking to kill potential pathogens.

ABOVE

“We’re developing a clientele and showing them what to do with cuts beyond New York strip and tenderloin.”

A CUT Local butchering helps ensure quality from the field to the tableBy Jim Stanford Photos by David Stubbs

Utilizing Whole Animals

Supporting Local Agriculture

Joel Cox is the new generation of “your guy” at the Aspens Market

The counter at the Aspens Market

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Amidst hard times in Teton Valley, the 39-year-old Ohio native is seeing more of his neighbors turn to raising a few animals to provide meat for their families and earn extra income. With Cosmic Apple, Snowdrift Farm, Teton Valley Creamery and the nonprofit Slow Food in the Tetons, a movement is afoot. “Instead of growing subdivisions, we’re getting back to the agricultural heri-tage of the valley,” he says.

At the Cellar, chef Will Gahagan cites practical reasons for cutting his own steaks: He saves money. By ordering whole loins rather than individually packaged cuts, and uses the trimmings for staff meals, daily specials and small plates such as beef remington and tartare. Plus, “I enjoy it.”

A 26-year-old born in Berkeley, California and raised in Montana, whose mother was a lifelong chef, Gahagan learned butchering at the California Culinary Academy. One of his first courses required spending the better part of a month in a 38-degree room cutting every piece of meat for the entire school. “At times your hands were so cold, you’d cut yourself and wouldn’t even know it.”

The Cellar orders ribeye and strip loins weighing about 20 pounds and tenderloins from 5 to 7 pounds, which Gahagan slices into 8- and 14-ounce portions. All beef is

USDA prime, the highest grade available. After cutting steaks, he vacuum seals them individually, essentially wet aging the meat.

While the format of the club has changed — originally envisioned as a residence club, it now operates as a boutique hotel — the quality of the restaurant never has been in doubt. The eatery has been opened to the public and will offer dinner seven nights a week this winter.

Gahagan prefers to serve his beef with fleur de sel, a coarse French sea salt, and freshly ground black pep-per. “Our meat is so good we try not to do too much to it.” Rich Bontadelli, Hazen Cotterell and generations of butchers before them might agree.

“Instead of growing subdivisions, we’re getting back to the agricultural heritage of the valley.”

115 E. Broadway • Next to Café Genevieve • 307-733-7868 • www.willowcreekhf.com

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Prime on Plate, in Budget

1 cup unsweetened pomegranate juice1/2 cup sweet red wine1 large sweet onion, cut into 1-inch chunks1/2 lemon, unpeeled, seeded and chopped4 cloves garlic, peeled and quartered1/2 teaspoon black pepper1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint leaves1 teaspoon fresh rosemary or 1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves or 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme1 tablespoon kosher salt1 (5- to 6-pound) leg of lamb, boned and butterflied

Pomegranate-marinated Leg of LambFrom Derek Ellis of Ellis Custom Meats

Pulse ingredients in blender or food processor until onions are minced. Place leg of lamb and blended marinade in a zip-top bag and marinate for at least 12 hours.

To Roast in the Oven:Preheat oven to 325 degrees Farenheit. Line a 9-by-12 inch baking pan with foil.

Remove lamb from marinade and place in the pan, fat-side up. Discard marinade. Roast in the oven until internal temperature reaches 145 degrees Farenheit, about 2 hours. Let rest 15 minutes before cutting slices against the grain.

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Oscar OrtegaThe Chef’s Critique

World-class pastry chef Oscar Ortega knows good food and service and is not afraid to say when he has it — and when he doesn’t. The finicky chef writes a roving column for dishingjh.com about his dining experiences in Jackson. And he has the credentials to back it up. Ortega was the first Mexican Chocolate Master, representing Mexico at the World Chocolate Masters Finals. He competed at the World Pastry Team Championship in 2006, 2008 and 2010 and was the captain of Team Mexico at the Coupe du Monde de la Patisserie 2007. Ortega has participated in and boasts awards from many other international and national pastry competitions. He was named among the 10 Top Best Pastry Chefs of America by Dessert Professional Magazine in 2011, and his work has been featured on PBS, TLC, Discovery Channel, Food Network and the Travel Channel. He is also the head pastry coach for the U.S. pastry team that will compete in 2011 at Le Mondial des Arts du Sucre in Paris. When in Jackson Hole, he concentrates on his retail outlets, Atelier Ortega and Cocolove, which produce an extensive variety of artisan chocolates, desserts, entremets, confections, artisan bread and viennoiserie to serve its global customer base.

Kim WeissThe Creative Kitchen

Never one to shy away from trying something new, Kim Weiss shares her love of cooking and her taste for experimentation with us each

week in The Creative Kitchen. Weiss was born into a family of cooks. Her father was a gourmet. Her aunts could collectively cook circles around anyone, and her

grandmother, she claims, “was the best southern cook God put on

the face of this earth.” Weiss began cooking for her family and friends at

age 10 and hasn’t stopped. While formally schooled as a lawyer and not as a chef, she applies the same kind of creativity to cooking that she once put into crafting a legal argument. Weiss is also the owner of Vom Fass, a store selling gourmet culinary condiments, fruit vinegars, exquisite oils, selected wines and spirits.

Dina MishevSweet Treats

A Jackson resident for 14 years, Dina Mishev skis, bikes, runs, climbs and hikes. That is, when she is not searching out the best baked goods (and coffee to go with them). Dina’s Dishing column, Sweet Treats, is exactly what you’d expect from its name: a taste of the valley’s best desserts. She’s got a sweet tooth you can trust. On Wyoming

Chronicle, the weekly Wyoming PBS show she hosts, Dina has sat

down with the Meeteetse Chocolatier. She’s written about Atelier Ortega for Sunset Magazine. For AAA Via, she’s profiled La Canasta del Pan and sought Wyoming’s perfect cinnamon roll. Her chocolate chip cookies have won awards at the Teton County Fair, and she recently baked her first wedding cake. Her stories also appear in United Hemispheres, the Lexus Magazine and on the websites of Arizona Tourism and Wyoming Tourism.

Meet Our bloggers

Hailey MortonWining

In her column, Wyoming native Hailey Morton focuses on sharing her experiences, knowledge and interest in wines. She first developed this passion when she lived in Argentina, where she learned about the country’s wines, wine industry and its increasing influence in the global market. She has traveled extensively throughout western Europe, where she harvested prosecco grapes in Italy, led tours in Spanish Cava country and tasted just about any wine she could get in her glass. Putting this passion to work, Hailey began her career in the industry working for Jackson Hole Wine Company. Coupled with a hospitality background (she ran her family’s Jackson hotel), her international experiences and a degree from Georgetown University in international affairs, Hailey brings a unique perspective and approach to the wine industry. Now back in Jackson, Hailey manages the liquor department at the Jackson Whole Grocer and has started dabbling in cheese as the newest manager of specialty cheeses.

On our website, www.dishingjh.com, we have even more information and

stories about food. We’d like to introduce some of our columnists.

Jackson Hole, Wyoming

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Located next to the Tram, at the base of the Big One.

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... See you at the VCillustrations by Prudence Daniels

62

“Soltera o casada?” began the first of many taxi rides in Quito, where the puzzled drivers couldn’t help but question a woman traveling alone. Once my marital status was determined (casada), talk turned to why I was solo in Ecuador, who was taking care of my hus-band and children and the national obsession of soc-cer. Finally, talk turned to food.

Most people know me as Annie Fenn, mother, wife, ObGyn. Eighteen months ago, I decided to retire from the medical practice I started in 1994. With the boys

in summer camp, and my husband exploring Arctic waters in a canoe, I headed south to do some climbing, to brush up on my Spanish, and to eat.

Trying new foods in a foreign country is one of the greatest pleasures of traveling. Sampling the cuisine is akin to understanding the people and the culture. Initially, I was more impressed by the mountains than the food. Perched at 9,350 feet, Quito is encircled by one spectacular volcano after another. On a rare clear day, the summits of five peaks — Chimborazo the tall-est at 20,561 feet — can be seen from any high point in the city. I soon learned that this country, not much

bigger than Wyoming, offers a diverse edible landscape of exotic fruits, abundant seafood, coffee and cacao beans, and countless varieties of Andean potatoes.

My first meals were shared with fellow trekkers in touristy restaurants chosen by our climbing guide, who was concerned for our delicate gringo stomachs and worried about offending our sensible palates with Ecuadorian customs like tronquito (bull penis soup). Three days of fixed-price meals — chicken and rice, beef and rice, pork and rice — led me to instigate a

mutiny. After a damp hike to the misty 14,500 foot summit of Fuya Fuya, we headed into a small town to check out the indigenous weavers. A woman on the street fried bread in a pan and ladled a warm, purple beverage into cups. “Can we try that?” I asked my guide. Not waiting for a reply, I shelled out 55 cents for her pan frito and colada morada — made from ground corn and local blackberries. Soon everyone was buy-ing a steaming cup of this warm berry smoothie. We deemed it the perfect après-hike snack, cozy, restoring and not too sweet.

After a week of high altitude trekking, we were grant-

— By Annie Fenn

ed a day of rest in Otavalo, a spotless Spanish colonial town that hosts vendors from the rural sierra in one of the most colorful and lively Saturday markets on the continent. The livestock market got going at 5 a.m., with children selling goats, men selling bulls and women carrying armfuls of chickens. By mid-morn-ing, the market was in full swing, the streets packed with vendors selling blouses, Panama hats and color-ful weavings.

Thirsty? Makeshift juice bars with rows of blenders whirred up exotic fruit drinks. Need a snack? Snail ceviche, served in a plastic bag with hot sauce and a squeeze of lime, was kept cold in buckets of ice. Sev-eral hours of bartering made me dizzy and more than a little hungry, so I wandered over to the food stalls, where dozens of open-air kitchens were filled with cooks serving their specialties from enormous woks and cauldrons. I joined two young girls slurping soup

as their mom called out, “Caldo de pollo.” They looked at me with exquisite shyness, laughing at my accent and covering their faces with their hands as they ate a chicken soup with quinoa and yucca - a staple in the mountains. It looked simple, straightforward and comforting.

I asked the girls what makes their mom’s soup so good, better than any chicken soup I’d ever had. “Las patas,” one said, giggling, “las patas del pollo.” The feet of the chicken were apparently the secret ingredi-ent, and when I peered into the pot, indeed there were a few dozen feet bobbing in the broth.

After 14 days of trekking, I flew to the colonial city of Cuenca to attend language school and stay with a host family: Victor, Lala and their two daughters. As a hopeless chocoholic, I was thrilled to learn that Lala was a chocolatier who owned a small shop. I fell in love with her hand-crafted sweets, especially her hot cocoa. It was mildly addicting and became a daily habit after spending mornings with my Spanish tutor and afternoons wandering through cathedrals and museums or taking hikes. Without fail, I always found myself at Lala’s chocolate shop. A steaming cup of her chocolate caliente — made with unsweetened cocoa, cinnamon, a touch of locally roasted coffee, and shav-ings of dark Ecuadorian chocolate — was served with sugar on the side. It was dark and rich and not too sweet.

One night at Lala’s house, our conversation turned to desserts. I described our brownies, chocolate chip

cookies and pies. Intrigued by the concept of cheese-cake, I offered to make the family one. Apparently ricotta cheese is a novelty in Ecuador, so I offered to make that too, as long as I had some whole milk.

The next morning we went beyond the city limits until we were surrounded by green hills, pastures and cows being gently persuaded this way and that by white-haired Ecuadorians dressed in bright wool wraps. We arrived at the milkmaid’s house just in time to hand over an empty jug as she headed out for her morning milking. Moments later she returned with a steaming jug, giving it to us as a gift.

Eat Your Way Through The Off-Season

Jackson Hole’s resident foodie finds out what make Ecuador’s food so special

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Back at Lala’s house, her daughters wandered into the kitchen in their paja-mas. One saw the fresh, steamy milk and immedi-ately poured it into an-other pot to make dulce de leche. The ubiquitous Latin American caramel sauce

is another of my foodie obsessions. It takes about three hours to make a batch, but the stirring passed quickly in a warm kitchen with four sets of hands, laughter and stories.

The next day, breakfast was bittersweet as I smeared our dulce de leche (which helped a little) on my bread and said goodbye.

My last taxi ride to the Quito airport began like all the others as my driver inquired: Casada? Sí. Niños? Sí, dos niños. Did you have some good food? I described to him my favorites: the colada, the soup, the dulce de leche. “I wish you could try my wife’s llapingachos,” he said. “They are the best in Quito. The secret? She stuffs them with fresh cheese and softly fried on-ions”.

Gracias, Ecuador.

Find a complete version of this story on An-nie Fenn’s blog, www.jackson-holefoodie.com. Find these recipes and more at

www.dishingjh.com.66

Rustic Elegance

Open nightly at 6:00 | 84 East Broadway | 307.733.0557 | www.snakerivergrill.com