500

OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: A   Aimee Clark, Andre Sypkens, Andrew Chong, Andrew Kay, Andrew Singer, Ann Charlesworth, Anna Bartle, Anna Downing  B   Bart Lauran, Bas Nieuwesteeg, Belinda King, Bernard Boixière, Bod Hopkins, Boris Katz, Brian Clayton, Brian Cox, Bryan Car-vill  C   Caralin Fleet, Carol Godden, Celia North, Chris Urbasic, Christina Scerbo, Christina Thompson, Cristina Ribosa, Cuiling Su  D   David Beame, David Gustavsen, David Shanks, David Tognarini, Debra Dorn, Derek Hirst, Dionne Findley  E   Eran Friedlander, Eric Yu, Estibaliz Castrillo   F   Fabrice Simonin, Felix O Wagner, Fiona Rosemarine, Fiona Woodley   G   Gemma Mellides, George Nelis, Gerold Seibert, Graeme Dawson, Greg de Malherbe, Guillaume Duclouet  H   Hannah Logan, Hans van der Broek  I   Iris Brum-mans   J   James Stuart Armitage, Jan Cullen, Janet Liddle, Jason Bonney, Jens Werzner, Jeroen Bakker, Jim Hollander, Joan Ng, Jodie Horton, Joel Richer, Johan Coopman, Jolanda Spoelstra, Jolijn Vannuffelen, Jonathan G, Joyce van den Oever, Julia Pehl, Julie Pichon  K   Karan Khetan, Kennet Fischer, Koen van Delft, Krystyna Deuss   L   Laura Boutevillain, 

Le Van Phong Uy, Lea Champoux, Liesbeth Langerak, Luc Frans, Lyn Fawcett  M   Maria Krüger, Mario Knape, Marky Enriquez, Martin Hellwagner, Matthias Kläy, Matthias Kranke, Melissa Calderisi, Michael Schuetz, Michael Vanmechelen, Mick Flood, Mike Musil, Mike Rinowski, Monique Saegesser  N   Nagore Saiz Menchaca, Nicola Cammisa  O   Orly Flax  P   Patrick Bernard, Peter Ackoff, Peter Bow-ert, Peter Madsen, Peter McIver, Peter Rossi   R   Ralph Schwer, Randy Grasser, Renae Lodo, Robbert Barends, Robert Costabile, Roberta Gorgone, Robin Blench, Ruben Mooijman, Ruth Rosant  S   Sabrina Desprats, Samantha Lush, Sander Brasser, Sandra Doennhoff, Sapa O’Chau, Sarah Attwell, Sarah Jensen, Scott Fletcher, Scott Lang, Shirley Sim, Sophie Gal-harret, Stefan Recksiegel  T    Tamara Dekum, Thomas Beaven, Thomas Rye, Thuy Nguyen, Tim Samuelson, Tlaloc Tokuda, Tom Abbott, Tony Harman, Tony James Slater, Torben Gies-selmann, Trena Kennedy   W   Werner Bruyninx, William M Worden  X   Xie Yang  Y   Yannick Arnaud, Yvette Walsh

AUTHOR THANKS Iain StewartIt was a remarkable trip, thanks to the kind-ness and help of Vinh Vu, Chien, Dzung, Neil and Caroline in Hoi An, Mark Wyndham, Ben and Bich, Howard and Deborah Limbert, the 

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. 

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Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ESNha Trang boys, Tam in Dong Ha and Mark and Jason in Ho Chi Minh City. And thanks to all the Lonely Planet people in Melbourne (and beyond) for sterling work and support behind the scenes. 

Brett AtkinsonThanks to Kien and family in Hanoi and on the road, and to the always stylish Mr Hai for negotiating a smooth path through challeng-ing north Vietnamese landscapes. In Sapa, thanks to Shu and Peter – keep up the great work – and cheers to Mr Tung, Jim and  Grae-me on Cat Ba. Finally thanks to Carol and my family back home in Auckland for their love and support through interesting times.

Damian HarperThanks to everyone who helped: Iain Stewart for invaluable pointers, Nguyen Linh, Mark Zazula, Jason Donovan, Steph Akhurst, Tim Doling, Walter Pearson, Sophie Hughes, Stu, Rohan Barker, Su-Su, Hung, Thanh and of course the magnificent and warm-hearted people of Vietnam, who made my journey a joy every step of the way. Thanks also to the ever-useful and well-thumbed Hoa–Viet Chinese–Vietnamese Dictionary and immense gratitude as always to Dai Min, Timothy Jiafu and Emma Jiale.

Nick RayA huge and heartfelt thanks to the people of Cambodia, whose warmth and humour, 

stoicism and spirit make it a happy yet humbling place to be. Biggest thanks are reserved for my lovely wife Kulikar Sotho and our children Julian and Belle, as without their support and encouragement the adventures would not be possible. Thanks to fellow trav-ellers and residents, friends and contacts in Cambodia who have helped shaped my knowledge and experience in this country. There is no room to thank everyone, but you all know who you are, as we meet for anything from beers to ecotourism conferences regu-larly enough. Thanks also to my co-authors in Vietnam for going the extra mile to ensure this is a worthy new edition. Finally, thanks to the Lonely Planet team who have worked on this title. The author may be the public face, but a huge amount of work goes into making this a better book behind the scenes and I thank everyone for their hard work.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.

Cover photograph: Traditional fisher, Hoi An / HNH Images, Getty Images.

Illustrations pp172–3 and pp410–11 by Michael Weldon.

THIS BOOK This 12th edition of Lonely Planet’s Vietnam guidebook was researched and written by Iain Stewart, Brett Atkinson, Damian Harper and Nick Ray. The previous edition was written and researched by Iain, Brett and Nick, along with Peter Dragicevich. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office, and produced by the following: 

Commissioning Editor Ilaria WalkerCoordinating Editors Elin Berglund, Kate MathewsSenior Cartographer Diana Von HoldtBook Designer Mazzy PrinsepManaging Editors Sasha Baskett, Bruce EvansAssisting Editors Alison Barber, Michelle Bennett, Penny Cordner, Adrienne Costanzo, Helen Koehne, 

Charlotte Orr, Gabrielle Stefanos, Ross TaylorAssisting Cartographers Jeff Cameron, Corey Hutchison, James LevershaCover Research Naomi ParkerLanguage Content Branislava VladisavljevicThanks to Anita Banh, Brendan Dempsey, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Genesys India, Catherine Naghten, Lorna Parkes, Chad Parkhill, Trent Paton, Martine Power, Dianne Schallmeiner, Gerard Walker

502

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

IndexAaccommodation 468-9, see

also individual locationslanguage 493-4

activities 34-40, see also individual activities

air travel 478, 481American War 429-34

Cu Chi Tunnels 340, 342-3environmental impacts

465-6Gulf of Tonkin incident

429-30Hamburger Hill 164Khe Sanh Combat Base

163Long Tan 261memorials 220, 261, 395museums 220, 303,

303-4, 343My Lai massacre 220,

221, 431Nixon Doctrine 431Tet Offensive 430-1Vinh Moc Tunnels 162-3,

165An Bang Beach 22, 211-12An Binh 357An Thoi Islands 376Angkor National Museum

400Angkor temple complex

408-13, 409, 410-11, 13, 410-11

Angkor Thom 408-13, 409, 411

Angkor Wat 12, 48, 408, 410-11, 409, 410-11, 13, 410

animals 461-2, see also individual species

endangered species 106, 152, 153, 282, 461, 461-2, 464

architecture 272, 445-7, see also historic buildings

area codes 19, 474art galleries, see museums

& galleriesarts 443-5, see also dance,

literature, music, painting

ATMs 472

BBa Be National Park 16,

96-7, 16Ba Chuc 387Ba Na Hill Station 186Bac Ha 137-40, 138Bac Lieu 366-7Bai Chay, see Halong CityBai Huong 213Bai Lang 213Bai Tu Long Bay 113-15Ban Gioc Waterfall 118-19Ban Pho 139Bang Lang 365Banteay Srei 414Bao Dai’s Summer Palace

272Bao Loc 282Baphuon 412bargaining 21, 472Bat Trang 90bathrooms 475Bayon 409-12beaches 23-4

An Bang Beach 22, 211-12Bai An Hai 266Bai Bau 224Bai Dai 114, 245Bai Dat Doc 266Bai Lang 213Bai Loi Voi 266Bau Dram Trau 266Bay Canh 266Cat Co Cove 107-8China Beach 194-5Cua Can Beach 375

Cua Dai Beach 211Cua Lo 156Dai Beach 375Dai Lanh Beach 228Doc Let Beach 228-9Duong Beach 387Ho Coc Beach 257Ho Tram Beach 257Khem Beach 373Lang Co Beach 185Long Beach 373Minh Chau beach 114Mui Nai 386Mui Ne 248-50Municipal Beach

(Quy Nhon) 222My An 195My Khe 194My Khe Beach 221-2Nam O Beach 193-4Nha Trang Beach 230Ninh Chu Beach 247-8Non Nuoo 195Ong Lan Beach 375Phu Thuan 22, 183Queen’s Beach 224Quy Hoa Beach 222-3Sao Beach 373Thom Beach 375Thuan An Beach 183Tre Lon 266Vong Beach 373Vung Bau 375

beer, see bia hoiBen Hai River 164Ben Tre 353-4, 354Beng Mealea 414bia hoi 16, 78, 459, 16bicycling, see cyclingBinh Hoa Phuoc 357biofuel 388bird-watching 463

Bac Lieu 367Bach Ma National Park

184Bang Lang 365

Thung Nham 152Tram Chim National

Park 397U-Minh Forest 369Van Long Nature Reserve

152Bitexco Financial Tower 298Blue Sky Crocodile Land

394boat travel 481, 482boat trips, see also kayaking

Ba Be National Park 96Bai Tu Long Bay 113Ban Gioc Waterfall 119Ben Tre 354Ca Mau Nature Reserve

369Can Tho 360Cat Tien National Park

283Con Dao Islands 266Halong Bay 101, 106, 108,

109, 111, 113Ho Chi Minh City 315Hoi An 210Hue 177Mekong Delta 48, 350,

354, 355, 356, 357-9, 360, 364-5, 369

My Tho 350Nha Trang 236, 237Phong Dien 364Phong Na Caves 157-8Phu Quoc Island 377Tam Coc Boat Trips

149-50Tra Vinh 356Trang An Grottoes 152Van Long Nature Reserve

152Vinh Long 357-9Xeo Quyt Forest 396-7

Bodhidharma 307, 393books 416, 421, 431, 433,

434, 437, 444, 450, 463border crossings 479, 480

Cambodia 291, 336, 386, 391

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

503IN

DEX B - E

China 85, 115, 116, 137Laos 127, 150-1, 166, 293

Buddha’s Birth, Enlightenment and Death 26

Buddhism 424, 440, 441Buddhist temples, see

pagodas, templesBuon Ma Thuot 285-8, 286bus travel 479-81, 482-3,

485business hours 472

CCa Mau 367-9, 368Ca Na 248cable cars 275Cai Rong 114Cam Ha 97Cam Kim Island 211Cam Ranh Bay 245Cambodia 399-414Camp Carroll 164-5Can Gio 346Can Tho 360-4, 361Cannon Fort 108Cao Bang 117-18, 117Cao Dai Holy See 344-5Cao Daism 313, 441Cao Lanh 394-6, 395car travel 481, 483-5Cat Ba Island 103, 105-6Cat Cat 129Cat Tien National Park 14,

282-4, 14cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscaves

Cave of Prehistoric Man 153

Halong Bay 101-3Hang Dau Go 103Hang En 158Hang Pac Bo (Water-

Wheel Cave) 118Hang Son Doong 22, 158Hang Sung Sot 103Hang Thien Cung 103Hang Trong 103Hang Trung Trang 107Hospital Cave 108Huyen Khong Cave 194Linh Nham 194Mua Cave 150Nguom Ngao Cave

118-19Nhi Thanh Cave 116Paradise Cave 157Phong Nha Caves 157-8

Tam Thanh Cave 116Tien Son Cave 157Trang An Grottoes 152Tu Lan Caves 157

caving 40cell phones 18, 474-5cemeteries

Dien Bien Phu Cemetery 125

Duyen Hai cemetery 346Hang Duong Cemetery

265Trong Son National

Cemetery 163-4Cha Ban Cham 226Cham Islands 212-14Cham New Year (Kate)

27, 246Cham structures 447

Banh It Cham Towers 226

Chien Dan 216Duong Long Cham

Towers 226-8My Son 214-16, 215Nhan Cham Tower 227Phu Dien 183Po Klong Garai Cham

Towers 245-6Po Nagar Cham Towers

230-1Po Ro Me Cham Tower

246Po Shanu Cham Towers

250Thap Doi Cham Towers

222Chau Doc 388-91, 389Chien Dan 216children, travel with 469

Hanoi 65Ho Chi Minh City 314

China Beach 194-5Chinese New Year 25,

441, 26Cho Moi 394Christianity 442Christmas Day 27Chua Bai Dinh 151churches & cathedrals

Cha Tam Church 312Cho Quan Church 312Danang Cathedral 187Du Sinh Church 273Immaculate Conception

Cathedral 291Long Xuyen Catholic

Church 394Mountain Church 216Nha Trang Cathedral 234

Notre Dame Cathedral 298

Phat Diem cathedral 149Queen of the Rosary

Cathedral 98St Joseph Cathedral 57Ton Dao cathedral 149Tra Kieu Church 216

cinemas, see also filmsHanoi 80Ho Chi Minh City 333

citadelsCo Loa Citadel 91Hue Citadel 171-5Imperial Citadel 61Mac Dynasty Citadel 116Thanh Citadel 244-5

climate 18, 25-7, see also individual regions

Co To Island 115Co Tu people 212coffee 15, 45, 459, 15

Buon Ma Thuot Coffee Festival 25, 285

Hanoi 77Con Dao Islands 15, 262-9,

263, 15Con Son 97-8, 264-6, 264Con Thien Firebase 164Confucianism 441consulates 470courses

cooking 45, 65-6, 131, 203-4, 251, 316, 401

craft 131language 66, 316, 471

credit cards 472Cu Chi 340-3Cu Chi Tunnels 340, 342-3Cua Dai Beach 211Cua Lo 156culture 416-17, 437-42currency 18customs regulations 469cycling 35, 38-40, 481-2,

see also mountain biking

Hanoi 89Hoi An 203Mekong Delta 349Phong Nha-Ke Bang

National Park 159Siem Reap 401Tay Ho 63

cyclos 485Hanoi 89Ho Chi Minh City 339Hue 181Saigon Cyclo Challenge

25, 317

DDai Lanh Beach 228Dai Nam Theme Park 342Dakrong Bridge 165Dalat 17, 272-82, 274,

17, 39dan bau 443Danang 186-92, 188dance 444dangers, see safety,

scamsDao, Tran Hung 422deforestation 463Delacour’s langur 152Demilitarised Zone (DMZ)

162-5, 164Den Kiep Bac 97-8dengue 489-90Diem, Ngo Dinh 175,

305, 307, 312, 346, 428, 429

Dien Bien Phu 123-6, 124disabilities, travellers

with 475diving 35, 36-7

Cham Islands 202, 213Con Dao Islands 266-7Nha Trang 235-6Phu Quoc Island 376-7

DMZ 162-5, 164Doc Let Beach 228-9Dong Ha 165-7Dong Hoi 160-1, 161Dong Ky 90Dong Van 142Dragon Island 353drinks 42, 459, see also bia

hoi, coffeedriving, see car travelDuong Dong 372, 377,

380, 376Duyen Hai 346

EEasy Riders 277economy 416-17electricity 470elephants 156, 282, 284,

288, 289, 460embassies 470emergencies 19

language 496environment 460environmental issues 352,

388, 462-6etiquette 21, 43, 438events 25-7exchange rates 19

504

INDEX F - H

FFansipan 129festivals & events 25-7

Cham New Year (Kate) 27, 246

Tet 25, 441films 416, 444-5fish farming 388fish sauce 373Flight of the Gibbon

Angkor 413floating markets,

see marketsFlower H’mong people

17, 23, 31, 35, 46, 93, 137, 138-9, 17, see also H’mong people

food 23, 41-5, 448-59, 470, 9, 41, 45, 451-6, see also street food, individual locations

cooking courses 45, 65-6, 131, 203-4, 251, 316, 401

etiquette 43itineraries 44language 494-6

Franco-Viet Minh War 98, 124, 427-8

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleriesGanh Da Dia 229gardens, see parks &

gardensgay travellers 79, 471geography 460-1Giap, General Vo Nguyen 416gibbons 153, 258, 275, 283,

284, 343, 413golden-headed langur 106golf 40

Dalat 276Hanoi 65Ho Chi Minh City 316Mui Ne 250Siem Reap 401Vung Tau 260

green sea turtles 267Gulf of Tonkin incident

429-30

HHa Giang province 13,

140-3, 13, 24

Ha Tien 382-6, 383Hai Van Pass & Tunnel

185-6Haiphong 98-100, 99Halong Bay 11, 101-13, 465,

102, 11, 21, 34, 37Halong City 103-5, 104Hamburger Hill 164handicrafts 90, 123, 201,

400, 406Hang Da 129Hang Son Doong 12, 22,

158, 12Hanoi 46, 50-89, 52-3,

58-9, 62accommodation 50,

68-72children, travel with 65climate 50drinking 77-9entertainment 80festivals & events 66-8food 50, 72-7French Quarter 62-3,

76, 64highlights 52-3itineraries 51medical services 84Old Quarter 15, 51-5,

68-70, 72-3, 54-5, 15, 43

scams 69, 84, 88shopping 81-90sights 51-64tourist information 85tours 66travel seasons 50travel to/from 85-8travel within 88-9walking tours 67, 67

HCMC Museum 298health 488-92hiking, see trekkinghill stations

Ba Na Hill Station 186Tam Dao Hill Station 92

hill tribes 273, 284, 291-3, 440

Hinduism 442hire cars 483-4historic buildings

Assembly Hall of the Cantonese Chinese Congregation 201

Assembly Hall of the Chaozhou Chinese Congregation 201

Assembly Hall of the Hainan Chinese Congregation 201

Bao Dai’s Summer Palace 272

Central Post Office 298Chinese All-Community

Assembly Hall 201Crémaillère Railway

Station 273Diep Dong Nguyen

House 202Huynh Thuy Le Old

House 397-8Memorial House 55Nam Giao Esplanade 184Opera House (Haiphong)

98Opera House (Ho Chi

Minh City) 298Phu Binh Camp 265-6Phu Hai Prison 265Phung Hung Old House

201Reunification Palace

304-5Tan Ky House 199Terrace of Elephants

412-13Terrace of the Leper

King 413Tiger Cages 265Tran Family Chapel

199-200Vua Meo 138-9Vuong Palace 142

history 419-36American War 429-34books 421, 431, 433, 434China & the Khmer

Rouge 435-6Chinese occupation

420-1, 422Franco-Viet Minh War

427-8French occupation 424-7Nguyen dynasty 423-4Reunification 434-5Trinh dynasty 423Vietnam–Cambodia

relations 404Vietnam’s separation

428-9H’mong people 96, 120,

122, 124, 128, 129, 132, 142, 5, see also Flower H’mong people

cuisine 22, 23, 43, 44, 76, 131, 134

guides 24, 135homestays 132, 147markets 119, 125weaving 131, 135

Ho Chi Minh 118, 156, 425, 426, 427, 428

Ho Chi Minh City 12, 47, 294-344, 296-7, 304, 12

accommodation 294, 317-23

activities 315-16An Phu (District 2) 329children, travel with 314Cholon 307-12, 308climate 294Co Giang 322-3courses 316Da Kao 300-3, 319,

326-7, 331, 335, 302Dong Khoi 295-300,

317-19, 323-6, 329-31, 333-4, 299

drinking & nightlife 329-32

entertainment 332-3festivals & events 317food 294, 323-9highlights 296-7itineraries 295Nguyen Thai Binh 307,

322, 329, 335, 307Pham Ngu Lao 319-22,

327-9, 332, 335, 320shopping 333-40sights 295-315tours 316-17travel seasons 294travel to/from 337-40travel within 338-9walking tours 312-13, 311

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex 59-61

Ho Chi Minh Trail 285Ho Coc Beach 257Ho Quyen 183Ho Tram Beach 257Hoa Binh 120-1Hoa Hao Buddhism 441Hoa Lo Prison Museum 57Hoa Lu 150-1Hoan Kiem Lake 57Hoang Lien Mountains

129-30, 10Hoi An 9, 47, 195-210,

196, 8-9accommodation 204-6activities 202courses 203-4drinking 207-8food 206-7shopping 208-209sights 198-202tailors 209tours 203

holidays 473

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

505IN

DEX H- M

homestays 468-9Ba Be National Park

96, 97Bai Huong 213Cat Ba 110Co Tu people 212Hoa Binh 120Ninh Binh Province 154Phong Nha-Ke Bang

National Park 159Vinh Long 359

Hon Chong 386-7Hon Chong Promontory 234Hon Giang 386Hon Lao 213, 235Hon Mot 235Hon Mun 235Hon Tre 235Hon Yen 235Hospital Cave 108Hue 11, 47, 167-181, 168-9

accommodation 176-8drinking 179food 178-9shopping 179sights 171-6tours 176travel to/from 180travel within 180-1

Hue Citadel 171-5, 172-3, 11, 172-3, 443

Hue Festival 25-6, 26

Iimmigration 478Imperial Citadel (Hanoi)

22, 61Imperial Citadel (Hue)

171-5insurance 471

car 484health 488

internet access 471internet resources 19

Cambodia 401health 488

Islam 442itineraries 28-33, 28, 30,

32-3food tours 44, 44Hanoi 51Ho Chi Minh City 295Temples of Angkor 412

JJapanese B Encephalitis

490Jarai people 290

Javan rhinoceros 282Jun village 284

KKate (Cham New Year)

27, 246kayaking 38, 463

Cat Ba Island 108, 109Dalat 276Halong Bay 103Ham Ho Nature Reserve

227Mai Chau 122Nha Trang 236Phu Quoc Island 377

Kbal Spean 414Ke Ga Lighthouse 256Kenh Ga 152Khau Vai 143Khe Sanh Combat Base 163Khmer people 362

museums 366Khmer structures

Bat Pagoda 365Kh’leang Pagoda 366Xa Lon Pagoda 365

Kim Lien 156kitesurfing 35, 38

Mui Ne 250-1Vung Tau 260

Koh Ker 414Kom Tum 291-3, 292

LLa Gi 256Lac village 122Lai Chau 127-8Lak Lake 284-5lakes

Ba Om Pond 355Crocodile Swamp 283Ech Lake 105Hoan Kiem Lake 57Lak Lake 284-5Langa Lake 280Luu Khiem Lake 181Tang Tau Lake 176Tay Ho (West Lake) 63-4Tonlé Sap 414Truc Bach Lake 64Tuyen Lam Lake 275Xuan Huong Lake 273

Lan Ha Bay 106Lang Co Beach 185Lang Dinh An Village 276Lang Son 116-17language 18, 21, 493-9

courses 66, 316

langurs 92, 106, 152, 153, 184, 283, 463

Lao Cai 136-7Lat Village 276laundry 473lava tubes 280legal matters 471lesbian travellers 79, 471literature, see booksLoi, Le 422Long Hai 257-8Long Tan 261Long Wall of Vietnam 219Long Xuyen 393-4Lung Cu 142

Mmagazines 473Mai Chau 121-2, 30-1malaria 490-1maps 471Marble Mountains 194markets 23

Angkor Night Market 406

Bac Ha Market 138Ben Thanh Market 333Binh Tay Market 309Cai Be Floating Market

358Cai Rang Floating Market

364Ca Mau Market 367Can Cau Market 138Can Tho floating market

360Central Market (Can

Tho) 363-4Coc Ly Market 138Con Son 265Dong Van 142fish market (Dong

Hoi) 160Ha Tien 384Hanoi 82Lung Phin Market 138Meo Vac 142minority markets 119My Tho Market 350night market (Lang

Son) 116Old Market (Can Tho) 363Phong Dien Floating

Market 364-5Sapa market 129Son La 123Thuan Chau 123

massage 65, 129, 202-3, 315-16

Matra 129measures 473medical services 489Mekong Delta 48, 347-98,

348accommodation 347climate 347highlights 348tours 349travel to/from 349travel within 349

Mekong River 352memorials 117

American War 163-4, 220, 261, 395

Franco-Viet Minh War 125

Meo Vac 142-3minority people, see

hill tribes, individual peoples

M’lieng 284mobile phones 18, 474-5Moc Chau 125money 18, 21, 472Mong Cai 115-16mosques

Chau Giang Mosque 388Cholon Jamail Mosque

312Mubarak Mosque 388Saigon Central Mosque

299motorcycle tours 486motorcycling 40, 121, 277,

481, 483-5mountain biking

Cat Ba Island 108Cat Tien National Park

282, 283Dalat 276Hoi An 203Mai Chau 122Nha Trang 236

Mui Nai 386Mui Ne 10, 248-55, 249,

10, 29, 36, 38, 39Muong Lay 126-7museums & galleries

Alexandre Yersin Museum 234

Angkor National Museum 400

Ben Tre Museum 353-4Binh Dinh Museum 222Can Tho Museum 360Cham Cultural Centre 246Coi Nguon Museum 373Cu Chi War History

Museum 343

506

INDEX M

- P

museums & galleries continued

Cuong Hoan Traditional Silk Centre 275

Dien Bien Phu Museum 125

Do Dien Khanh Gallery 235

Dong Thap Museum 395Ethnographic Museum

286Fine Arts Museum

61, 307General Museum

Complex 175Haiphong Museum 98HCMC Museum 298History Museum 303Ho Chi Minh Museum

(Danang) 187Ho Chi Minh Museum

(Hanoi) 61Ho Chi Minh Museum

(Ho Chi Minh City) 314Ho Chi Minh Museum

(Hue) 176Ho Chi Minh Museum

(Pleiku) 290Ho Chi Minh Trail

Museum 89Hoa Lo Prison Museum 57Hoi An Museum of

History & Culture 201Khmer Minority People’s

Museum 356Khmer Museum 366Kien Giang Museum 370Lam Dong Museum 273Long Thanh Gallery 235Mai Loc Gallery 235Military Museum 303Mine Action Visitor

Centre 165-6Muong Cultural Museum

120Museum of Cham

Sculpture 187Museum of Folklore in

Hoi An 202Museum of Sa Huynh

Culture & Museum of the Revolution 202

Museum of the Vietnamese Revolution 57

Museum of Trading Ceramics 200

Museum of Traditional Vietnamese Medicine 314

My Lai museum 220My Son Museum 216National Museum of

Vietnamese History 56National Oceanographic

Museum 234Navy Museum 98Old French Prison &

Museum 123Quang Trung Museum

226-7Revolutionary Museum

266Royal Fine Arts Museum

175San Art 314Sapa Museum 129Seminary & Hill-Tribe

Museum 291-2Ton Duc Thang Museum

298-9Vietnam Military History

Museum 61Vietnam Museum of

Ethnology 63Vietnamese Women’s

Museum 57war museum 120War Remnants Museum

303-4White Villa 259Worldwide Arms

Museum 258Xo Viet Nghe Tinh

Museum 154music 443-4My Khe Beach 221-2My Lai massacre 220,

221, 431My Son 214-16, 215My Tho 350-2, 351

NNa Ang 139Na Kheo 139Nam O Beach 193-4National Museum of

Vietnamese History 56national parks & nature

reserves 462Ba Be National Park 16,

96-7, 16Ba Vi National Park 91

Bac Lieu Bird Sanctuary 367

Bach Ma National Park 184-5

Bai Tu Long National Park 113

Bidoup Nui Ba National Park 275

Ca Mau Nature Reserve 369

Cat Ba National Park 106-7

Cat Tien National Park 14, 282-4, 14

Cuc Phuong National Park 152-3

Dao Tien Endangered Primate Species Centre 283

Ham Ho Nature Reserve 227

Monkey Island Eco Forest Park 346

Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park 12, 22, 156-60, 12

Phu Quoc National Park 375

Tam Dao National Park 92

Tram Chim National Park 397

Vam Sat 346Van Long Nature Reserve

152Xeo Quyt Forest 396-7Yok Don National Park

289newspapers 473Nghe Island 386Ngoan Muc Pass 282Ngoc Vung Islands 115Nha Trang 16, 230-44, 231,

232, 16accommodation 238-40activities 235-8drinking 242food 240-2shopping 242-3sights 230-5tourist information 243tours 237, 238travel to/from 244travel within 244

Ninh Binh 146-8, 148Ninh Binh Province

145-54Ninh Chu Beach 247-8

Ninh Van Bay 230Nixon Doctrine 431Nui Ba Den 345Nui Son Tra (Monkey

Mountain) 192-3

OOne Pillar Pagoda 345-6opening hours 472

Ppagodas 447, see

also templesAn Ma Pagoda 97Ang Pagoda 355Bao Quoc Pagoda 175Bat Pagoda 365Bich Dong Pagoda 149Bone Pagoda 387Cavern Pagoda 392-3Chuc Thanh Pagoda 201Clay Pagoda 365-6Con Son Pagoda 97Dieu De National Pagoda

175Dong Huong Pagoda 149Du Hang Pagoda 98Giac Lam Pagoda 313Giac Vien Pagoda

312-13Ha Chuong Hoi Quan

Pagoda 310-12Hang Pagoda 356Huong Pagoda 398Jade Emperor Pagoda

300-2Khanh Van Nam Vien

Pagoda 309Kh’leang Pagoda 366Lao Son 248Linh An Pagoda 276Linh Ong Pagoda 194Long Khanh Pagoda

223-4Long Son Pagoda 232-3Munirensay Pagoda 360Nghia An Hoi Quan

Pagoda 310One Pillar Pagoda 61,

345-6Ong Bon Pagoda 310Ong Pagoda 356Perfume Pagoda 89-90Phac Hat Pagoda 202Phap Chu pagoda 151Phap Lam Pagoda 187

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

507IN

DEX P

-T Phat Lon Pagoda 370Phu Dung Pagoda 384Phung Son Pagoda 313Phuoc An Hoi Quan

Pagoda 309Phuoc Lam Pagoda 200Quan Am Pagoda 309Tam Bao Pagoda 384Tam Son Hoi Quan

Pagoda 310Tay An Pagoda 392Tay Ho Pagoda 64Tay Phuong Pagoda 91Thach Dong Cave

Pagoda 384Thay Pagoda 90-1Thien Hau Pagoda 309Thien Mu Pagoda 182Tran Quoc Pagoda 64Truc Lam Pagoda 275Tu Hieu Pagoda 183Vinh Trang Pagoda 350Xa Loi Pagoda 194,

306-7Xa Lon Pagoda 365

paintballing 278painting 444Pan Hou Village 141Paradise Cave 157parks & gardens, see also

national parks & nature reserves

30 Thang 4 Park 388Botanic Gardens

(Ho Chi Minh City) 303

Dalat Flower Gardens 274

Tao Dan Park 306passports 478Perfume Pagoda 89-90Perfume River 177Phan Rang 245-7Phan Thiet 255-6Phare 406Phat Diem 149Phnom Bakheng 413Phnom Kulen 414pho 453, 457, 453Phoenix Island 352-3Phong Nha-Ke Bang

National Park 12, 22, 156-60, 12

photography 472-3Phu Chau (Tan Chau) 393Phu Quoc Island 14,

372-82, 374, 14

planning, see also individual locations

activities 34-40budgeting 19calendar of events 25-7internet resources 19itineraries 28-31, 44repeat visitors 22travel seasons 18, 25-7Vietnam basics 18-19Vietnam’s regions 46-8

Pleiku 289-90Po Nagar Cham Towers

230-1politics 416-17population 417post 473Preah Khan 413Preah Neak Poan 413public holidays 473puppets 80, 81, 333, 444

QQuan Ba Pass 141Quan Lan Island 114Quan Thang House 201Quang Ngai 219-20Quang Tri 167Quy Hoa Leper Hospital

222-3Quy Nhon 222-5, 223Quyen, Ngo 421, 422

RRach Gia 370-2, 371radio 473Red Dzao people 10, 44,

128, 129, 132, 141, 31religion 417, 440-2Reunification Express 487Reunification Palace

304-5rhinoceros 282road rules 484-5rock climbing 40

Dalat 276Halong Bay 108, 109

Rockpile, the 165Roluos Group 413running 65ruou 42, 459

SSa Dec 397-8, 397Sa Seng 129

safety 473-4, see also scams, individual locations

drink spiking 242mine clearance 163trekking 36

Saigon, see Ho Chi Minh City

sailingHalong Bay 106, 108, 109Mui Ne 251

Sam Mountain 391-3Sapa 10, 128-136, 130, 10scams 69, 84, 88shopping, see individual

locationslanguage 496

Siem Reap 48, 399, 400-7, 400, 402

Sin Chai 129Sinho 128smoking 473snorkelling 35, 36-7

Cham Islands 202, 213Con Dao Islands 266-7Nha Trang 235-6Phu Quoc Island 376-7

Soc Trang 365-6Son La 123Son My (My Lai) 220Son Trach village 157street food 42

Danang 189Hanoi 66, 73, 74, 43

surfing 35, 37-8Cam Ranh Harbour 245China Beach 194Mui Ne 248, 250-1Nha Trang 235Quan Lan Island 114Vung Tau 260

swimming poolsBuon Ma Thuot 287Hanoi 65Ho Chi Minh City 315Vung Tau 260

TTa Cu Mountain 256Ta Phin 129Ta Prohm 413Ta Van 129tailors 209Tam Coc 148-50Tam Dao Hill Station 92

Tam Son 141Tan Thach Village 353Taoism 440taxis 485Tay Ho (West Lake) 63-4Tay Ninh 343-5telephone services 474-5temples 23, 447, see

also pagodasAmbassadors’ Pagoda 61Angkor Thom 408-13,

409, 411Angkor Wat 12, 48, 408,

410-11, 409, 410-11, 13, 410

Assembly Hall of the Fujian Chinese Congregation 199

Bach Ma Temple 55Banteay Srei 414Baphuon 412Bayon 409-12Ben Duoc temple 343Beng Mealea 414Cao Dai Holy See 344-5Cao Dai Temple 187, 350,

367, 398Cau Castle 373Chau Phu Temple 388Dinh Tien Hoang 150Hai Ba Trung Temple

62-3Hai Son Tu 387Hoa Khiem Temple 181Kiep Bac temple 97-8Koh Ker 414Le Van Duyet Temple 314Luong Khiem Temple 182Mariamman Hindu

Temple 305-6Mo Co Temple 257Ngoc Son Temple 57Ngoc Tien Monastery 384Nguyen Trung Truc

Temple 370Nui Ba Den 345Ong Ngu 213Ong Temple 360Phnom Bakheng 413Preah Khan 413Preah Neak Poan 413Quan Cong Temple 200Quan Thanh Temple 61-2Roluos Group 413Sung An Temple 182Ta Prohm 413

508

INDEX T - Z

temples continuedTemple of Lady Xu 392Temple of Literature

58, 446Thai To Mieu Temple

Complex 174Van Thanh Mieu Temple

358Terrace of Elephants 412-13Terrace of the Leper

King 413Tet 25, 441, 26Tet Offensive 430-1Thai Hoa Palace 171Thanh Ha 211Thap Cham 245-7theatre 444thermal baths 236-8Thich Quang Duc 175Thung Nham 152Thuy Son 194time 475tipping 21, 472toilets 475tombs 23

Emperor Dinh Tien Hoang 151

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex 59-61

Mac Cuu Family Tombs 384

Tomb of Gia Long 184Tomb of Khai Dinh 182-3Tomb of Minh Mang 182Tomb of Nguyen Sinh

Sac 395Tomb of Thieu Tri 184Tomb of Thoai Ngoc

Hau 392Tomb of Tu Duc 181

Tonkinese Alps 10, 129-30Tonlé Sap 414Tortoise Island 353

tourist information 475tours 485-6, see also

individual locationsTra Ban Island 115Tra Kieu (Simhapura) 216Tra Vinh 355-7, 356Trai, Nguyen 422train travel 486-7Tram Ton Pass 130Tran Duong House 201travel advisories 474travel agencies 83, 135,

243-4, 336-7travel to/from Vietnam

478-81travel within Vietnam 481-7travellers cheques 472trekking 24, 35-6, 109

Bac Ha 139Bach Ma National Park

184Con Son 267-8Cuc Phuong National

Park 153safety 36Sapa 129-30

Trieu Cai 139trung 443-4Tuc Dup Hill 387Tuong Binh Hiep 342Tuy Hoa 227-8TV 473

UU-Minh Forest 369Unicorn Island 353

Vvacations 473vaccinations 488, 489Van Don Island 114Van Lan 149Van Phuc 90

vegetarian & vegan travellers 43, 450

Viet Hai 107Vietnam War, see American

WarVinh 154-6Vinh Long 357-60, 358Vinh Moc Tunnels 162-3,165Vinpearl Land 234visas 18, 407, 475-6volcanic craters 280volunteering 476-7Vung Ro Bay 228Vung Tau 258-62, 259

Wwalking, see trekkingwalking tours

Hanoi 66, 67, 67Ho Chi Minh City 311,

312-13, 311Wandering Souls Day 27War Remnants Museum

303-4waterfalls

Ankroët Falls 276Ba Ho Falls 245Ban Gioc Waterfall 118-19Dambri Falls 282Datania Falls 276Dray Nur Falls 289Dray Sap 289Elephant Falls 276Gougah Falls 276Pongour Falls 276Suoi Da Ban 375-6Suoi Tranh 375-6Thac Bac 131Thac Dau Dang 97Thai Giang Pho Waterfall

139water parks 315

water puppets 80, 81, 333, 444

weather 18, 25-7, see also individual regions

weights 473Whale Island 228White Thai people 31, 121,

122, 123, 469white-water rafting 38, 236wildlife 461-2, see

also animals, national parks & nature reserves

windsurfing 38, 260women in Vietnam 442women travellers 477, 492work 477World Heritage sites 465

Halong Bay Halong Bay 11, 101-13, 465, 102, 11, 21, 34, 37

Hoi An 9, 195-210, 196, 8-9

Hue 11, 47, 167-181, 168-9

Imperial Citadel 61My Son 214-16, 215Phong Nha-Ke Bang

National Park 12, 22, 156-60, 12

XXa Linh village 122xe oms 485

YYen Chau 125Yen Minh 141yoga 65, 204

Zziplining 413

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

511

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuinSento Hot Baths/OnsenShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/MRT station

Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/TourSkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

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