WINTER FUNWINTER FUNin Estoniain Estonia

ENGLISH EDITION/JANUARY 2012

Your free guide to Estonia

Your free guide to Estonia

Restaurants /Culture / Shopping / Getting Around /History

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LIVE MUSIC VENUE LIVE MUSIC VENUE GUIDE TO TALLINNGUIDE TO TALLINN

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PEREOPTIKA & SÄÄSTUOPTIKA – WW-Passaaz Aia 3/Vana Viru 10, Tallinn (tel. 6616007 gsm +372 56820045)

VIIMSI SPA OPTIKA – Randvere tee 11, Haabneeme, Tallinn (tel. 6011570 gsm +372 56880957)

STOCK OPTIKA - Tartu mnt 18 (tel. 6620240 gsm+372 56820044) across from Stockmann

PLUSS-MIINUS OPTIKA – Narva mnt. 11D, Tallinn (tel. 6261336) gsm +372 5682004 (entrance through the courtyard)

Eye doctors: Galina Beloussova and Juta Jask, service in Finnish and English

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Super, Super, Super Progressive lenses

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T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 3 3editorial

Get outside

It may be minus 20, a temperature so cold that it

seems silly to venture outside when you could simply sit by the fire and enjoy mulled wine, but you'd be missing out. Estonia is a northern European country, and to enjoy the outdoors this time of year, we must all make certain sacrifices, like the feeling in our fingers.

Have you ever tried cross-country skiing? This is the national winter pastime. Everyone is getting ready for the Tartu Marathon in February, and so can you. There are many places to ski in Tallinn, where you can even rent equipment.

Take a walk through the Old Town. The quiet

snow-covered streets almost make you feel like you’ve gone back in time. But be careful, snow and icicles have been known to fall from the rooftops. Do as the locals do and walk in the centre of street.

Not convinced, I understand. It is minus 20 after all. There is plenty to do inside too! Tallinn has quickly become a gastronomical paradise. Enjoy local and international cuisines, at prices that won’t break the travel budget. Or enjoy some of the museums and art galleries in town.

Happy New Year, (and keep warm!)

Kristina Lupp

Editor-in chief

5 editorial 6-7 transport 8 January events 10 -11 sports12-13 shopping 14-15 restaurants 16 sights 18 beauty 19 museums 20 -21 nightlife 22 history

shopping

restaurants14-15

Where to shop in Tallinn

12-13

Contents

Your Comments■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

SALTGeorgian Tavern TbilisiPapa JoeSöökla50 best restaurants

ABOUT ESTONIAArea: 45,227 km2.

Population: about 1,350,000.

Capital: Tallinn, population about 400,000.

Independence: 24 February, 1918, Re-independence: 20 August, 1991.

Weather: Average temperature July 16°C, February -9°C.

Time zone: GMT +2

Language: Official language Estonian. Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants.

Religion: Approximately 20 % of Estonians are non-religious, 30 % Lutheran, 28 % Orthodox and 3 % Catholic.

Currency: Euro. Visa, MasterCard, Eurocard, Diner’s Club and American Express are widely accepted.

Electricity: 220 V / 50 Hz, European (Type C) plug.

J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 3

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, MerekeskusLootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O

Pick up your free copy at: 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU

Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN

ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN

ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Managing Director: Jane KongaEditor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp

kristina@balticguide.eeDesign: Kristi Möls

Photography: Andrei Chertkov

Photo: Andrei ChertkovSki jumping at the

Nõmme Snow Park. (Pg 10)

Contact InformationPõhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn,

tel +372 611 77 60e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee

Marketing Manager: Kirli Lembinentel +372 58 50 2472

01 TOP SPEEDS AT THE SONG FESTIVAL GROUNDSRace down the hill at the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds! Enjoy snowtubing and a snowboard park. No equipment, no problem; you can rent anything you need on site.

02 TERE PERESTROIKAThe band J.M.K.E. is an Estonian punk rock band that formed in Tallinn in 1986. 27 years later they have become legends. See them live at the Rock Café in Tallinn on January 18, to help them celebrate their birthday. Not familiar with their music? The song 'Tere Perestroika' was a top hit.

03 DOCUMENTARY FILMS IN TALLINNFor the fourth year in a row DocPoint films can be seen in Tallinn. DocPoint is one of the largest documentary film festivals in Northern Europe, and the only one of its kind in Finland. The festival will take place in Tallinn, January 24-27.

04 HERE, FISHY FISHY…The largest fishing competition in the Baltics will take place February 16 on Viljandi Lake. Kuldkala 2013 awards a cash prize to the person who catches the correctly marked fish. Enjoy a competitive atmosphere, fish foods, and music on the day of the competition.

05 DANCING UNDER THE WINTER SKY The cold doesn’t scare off these dancers that gat-her for the Viljandi Folk Dancing Festival. The festival takes place from January 31 to February 2 in Viljandi. Since 1998, this event has brought dance enthusiasts to the ethno capital. Everyone is welcome.

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MERIMETSA

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VEERENNI

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LASNAMÄE

PIRITA

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OLD TOWN

PORTA, B terminals

D terminal

AIRPORT

VIRU

BUS STATION

PELGULINN

KOPLI

KADRIORG

PELGU-RANNA

MERIMETSA

VEERENNI

TONDI

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Tallinn city transportation tickets can be purchased in advance from kiosks or directly from the driver. One hour, three-day and five-day tickets are available. Tickets must be validated at the beginning of the journey. Persons travelling without a ticket are subject to a 40€ fine.

Further information on routes and timetables:http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#plan/

TICKETS AND ROUTES

TALLINN CITY TOUR

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages.Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

Red Line - City CentreGreen Line - PiritaBlue Line - Rocca al MareTour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets start at 13€.www.citytour.ee

AIRPORT - CITY CENTER BUS No. 90K

This is the best way to travel between the airport and the city centre. These blue buses are easily recognised with the airplane ticket image on the outside. There is space for luggage. The bus stops at various hotels, main attractions and the Tallinn port. Tickets 2€. www.hansabuss.ee, http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#bus

tram routes

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RAILWAYSTATION

getting4 T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 2

Free shot of liqueur

when you order a schnitzel. New location:

Rüütli 28/30, Old Town

THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD

■ Customs Regulations

Visitors from EU countries may carry unlimited amounts of tobacco products into Estonia.

ALL TOBACCO PRODUCTS MUST DISPLAY HEALTH WARNINGS.IN THEIR ABSENCE, THE FOLLOWING RULES APPLIES:

200 CIGARETTES OR 200G OF LOOSE TOBACCO

Cars or motorcycles entering Estonia may carry up to 10L of petrol in regulation containers.

Drugs may not be brought into Estonia with-out permission. Live animals and plants, as well as rare animal and plant species and also require special permission. Firearms and other weapons are prohibited.

Pirated materials are prohibited.Estonian Tax and Customs, information for the travel-ler: http://www.emta.ee/index.php?id=1089

■ Airport and Port Transfers

Getting to the port:The distance between the Viru Shopping Centre and the port is about 1 km. Bus no. 2 will get you there, and pass by the air-port as well. The Mõigu Bus Line also passes through the port. For more information and time-tables visit: http://soiduplaan. tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ab. The name of the Viru Shopping Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa. Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60€ or from R-kiosks for 1€.

Free Bus from the PortThe Viking Line offers a free shuttle service to and from the city. The name of the bus stop is Mere puiestee, opposite the Viru Shopping Centre. The bus departs at 14.15, 14.30 and 14.45.The Rocca al Mare Prisma super-market has a free bus that also passes through the port terminals everyday between 10–17. Please consult the website for departure times: www.prismamarket.ee/prismabuss.php?lang=fin

Getting to the AirportThe distance between the Viru Shopping Centre and the Tallinn airport is 4 km. The no. 2 bus goes to the airport and the sched-ule can be found at http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ab. The name of the Viru Shopping Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa and the airport stop is called Lennujaam. Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60€ or from R-kiosks for 1€. The no 90K bus oper-ates between Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport and centrally located Tallinn hotels. It runs from 7:20am until 6:40pm every 20 min daily. A one-way ticket costs 2€.

■ BY BUS:Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam)Lastekodu 46, Tallinnwww.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee

From the bus station to the city: tram no.2, bus no. 17, no. 23

Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee

Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee

Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu

Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

■ BY SEA:From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee

Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com

Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee

Linda Line Express - www.lindaline.ee

TO/FROM STOCKHOLMTallink - www.tallinksilja.com

TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURGSt. Peter Line - www.stpeterline.com

■ BY TRAIN:Train Station (Balti jaam)Toompuistee 37, Tallinn

From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minute walk to the Old Town

www.edel.ee

www.gorail.ee

■ BY AIR:Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam)Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn

From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90Kwww.tallinn-airport.ee/eng

FAST CLASS By Copterline – www.copterline.ee Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki City Centres, from the Port.

■ Transport

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■ Tallinn Taxis■ Day and evening (23.00–6.00) taxi fares can vary. Each taxi company has their own rates. Every taxi must display driver infor-mation and photo.

■ For example, a one-way ride starting at Viru Hotel and lasting approximately 1.5 km should cost about 6€. With traffic congestion, the amount may be higher. For a listing of taxi fares, please visit: www.taksod.net

■ It pays to be careful when choos-ing a taxi, because some companies have much higher rates than others. Taxi prices are displayed on the right rear window and on the vehicle’s dashboard. The minimum fee must be displayed on the price list, as well as the rate per kilometer and standing rate. The cost of the trip is always the displayed taxi-meter rate, as an ‘agreed rate’ will not always be honoured.

Taxi drivers must print a receipt. If for some reason the taxi driver does not offer a receipt then the passenger is not obliged to pay. If

you feel that the price was unreasonable, then make note of the car registration number, date of

journey, and the name of the taxi company.

■ If you feel that you have been cheated, you may send complaints to: tta@tallinnlv.ee and/or The Baltic Guide: editorial@balticguide.ee. Or call the Tallinn Service Line 1345.

■ From the airport to the city cen-tre, a taxi will cost between 7-10€

with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink

Takso. These three taxi companies have a contract with the Tallinn Airport, and will be

waiting outside the main entrance in the taxi queue.

USEFUL VOCABULARY

The car has broken down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Auto läks katkiThe car has run out of petrol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bensiin sai otsa Here is an accident. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Siin on avarii There is a block in the road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Teel on ummikWhere is the car repair?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Kus on autoremonditöökoda/kummiparandus?

P U H E L I N N U M E R O T : P O L I I S I 1 1 0 , P E L A S T U S TO I M I 1 1 2 , AU TO A B I 1 8 8 8 ( 2 4 H ) .

No international driver’s license required.

It is important for drivers to follow the

following regulations:

■ Blood alcohol level must be 0.

■ Estonia has no freeways. Please mind inter-

sections and cyclists.

■ The speed limit in towns is usually 50 km /

h, but can vary between 30- 70 km / h. Speeds

will be marked. Outside built-up areas, the

speed limit is 90 km / h, in some sections 110

km / h, but only in summer.

■ All cars must carry a warning triangle,

wheel chocks, first-aid kit, and fire extin-

guisher. Drivers must wear a fluorescent vest

when stopped at night.

■ In case of collision, and in the event of inju-

ry, it is advisable to call the police. Insurance

documents and driver information should

be exchanged.

■ Parking and speeding fines will still be

charged if visiting from overseas. Please pay

fines on time to avoid penalty.

Useful Information

Parking in Tallinn

Important Phone Numbers: POLICE 110, EMERGENCY 112, AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h)

The first 15 minutes of parking are free when

using a parking clock. This does not apply in

parking lots.

Parking tickets can be purchased from a

kiosk or in select stores. Parking tickets must

state the year, month, day, hour, and minute

of purchase.

Shopping centres are equipped with an

automatic teller that accepts coins. In Tallinn,

most parking lots are paid.

Parking fines vary. Failure to pay for park-

ing may result in a fine of 20. If the parked

car is obstructing traffic, the fine will be 64,

with the possibility of it being towed. In this

case, please contact the city police 14410.

Unpaid fines do not go away, even if you

are from overseas. Unpaid fines may triple

in value.

Please read the signs carefully.

The first 15 minutes are free at:■ Tallinn Parking 15 min / 0,26€

Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15. Free on Sundays.

■ City Centre 15 min / 0,58€Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15. Free on Sundays.

■ Old Town 15 min / 1,15€Payment required 24h, 7 days.

■ Hire a carYou don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the country-side and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at the Tallinn Airport:

Budget – www.budget.eeEuropcar – www.europcar.eeHertz – www.hertz.eeNational – www.europcar.eeSixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more infor-mation on driving in Estonia, turn to page 6-7 in this guide or visit www.mnt.ee.

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.eeHansarent – www.hansarent.eeSir Autorent – www.sirrent.eeYes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

saleFashion.

Accesories.Household products.

27.12.2012–29.1.2013

The most expected in town

LIIVALAIA 53 • OPEN Mon – Sat 9 – 21 • Sun 10 – 21 • WWW.STOCKMANN.EE

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 36 january events

Mustonen is famous for his baro-que music series with the ensemb-le Hortus Musicus. This year’s fes-tival, MustonenFest brings many top name soloists to Tallinn. The opening concert on February 1 will include an international lineup, including Krzysztof Penderecki Credo.

One of the more interesting acts is the monastery choir Opti-na PutÕn from St Petersburg, who

Baroque music Baroque music in wintery Tallinn

February 1 marks the start of the baroque music festival led by the legendary Andres Mustonen.

will perform in Tallinn, Pärnu, and Jõhvi. Also noteworthy is the Bel-gian ensemble B`Rock, who will perform their 8 Seasons concert.

For the first time ever you will be able to see Hortus Musicus and Kremerata Balticat on the same stage on February 7 at the Esto-nian Concert Hall.

The festival will finish on February 9 with a gala concert at the Estonian Concert Hall.

Tickets to the concerts are available from Piletilevi. Con-certs will be held in the Estonia Concert Hall, House of the Black-heads, Tallinn Jaani Church, Tartu Vanemuise Concert Hall, Pärnu Elisabeth Church, and the Jõhvi Mihkli Church. ■

MustonenFest, February 1-9 in Tallinn Pärnu, Jõhvi, and Tartu.www.piletilevi.ee

If last year is any indication, the 42nd Tartu Marathon will be a truly huge event. Last year almost 8000 skiers took part, of which 6750 made it to the finish.

The 63 kilometre long trail takes you through the forests of Otepää and over the hills of Elva. If you don’t think you can make it that far, then there is also a 31-kilo-metre race. The ski style is classic.

On February 16 a race for children will take place at the

The favourite marathon

Tartu Tähtvere Sport Park. Every participant gets a prize.

You can register for the marat-hon at: www.tartumaraton.ee. The registration cost is between 30-80. You must register by February 16. ■

Tartu MarathonStart: Otepää Tehvandi Stadium February 17, 9.00.www.tartumaraton.ee

Every wonder what a bunch of Christmas trees tied together as a figure and set ablaze look like? Well now is your chance. Old Christmas trees are collected at the beginning of January and par-ticipants get to work making them into different figures.

The burning of fir tree is an old Estonian folk custom. It was belie-ved that the lighting of midwinter fires would guarantee the return of the sun in spring. ■

For more information and event dates: www.valgusfestival.ee

Come to the legendary Viru

Hotel for a three-part classic cabaret that follows the fasci-nating 40-year history of the hotel. Tickets include a glass of sparkling wine as a welcome drink, a three-course a la carte dinner, inspired by the flavours of the Soviet era, entrance to the Café Amigo night club and of

Legends of the Times

course the fabulous cabaret!. Be sure to book, tickets are selling out quickly! www.piletilevi.ee ■

Hotel Viru Grand 40th Anniversa-ry Cabaret Show Tour 1972-2012Sokos Hotel Viru, Restoran Meri-neitsiViru väljak 4, Tallinn B2Until April 27, 2013

The Tallinn Applied Art Triennial

began in 1979. Since 1997, the tri-ennial has been an international open forum for applied art and design. Its goal is to offer a new and unexpected perspective for examining contemporary applied art and design. This year the tri-ennial will have participants from Europe, North America, Asia, and New Zealand. ■

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town G1www.trtr.ee

6th Tallinn Applied Art

Triennial “The Art of Collecting”Until March 3, 2013

Tallinn Fire and Ice Festival

January 4 – February 10

Photo: Tarmo Haud

Photo: Rünno Lahesoo

www.troika.ee

RUSSIANRESTAURANTRUSSIAN

RESTAURANT

BEST VENUES IN TALLINN! WELCOME! FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 47

HEALTHYFRESHFAST

OPEN MON-THU 11-23, FRi-SUN 12-24

Foorum Center, Hobujaama 10, TallinnNear the harbour tfn. +372 6 829 010

Solaris Center, Estonia pst. 9, TallinnNear the National Opera Theatre tfn. +372 6 285 999

& PIZZA

from

4,90 €

PASTA

VISIT VAPIANO IN HELSINKI, MIKONKATU 15!

TALLINN HELSINKI STOCKHOLM LONDON WIEN AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG NEW YORK

21

BRASSERIE & RESTAURANT TELETORNRESTAURANT WITH A VIEW

WWW.TELETORN.EEWWW.FACEBOOK.COM/RESTORAN/TELETORN

Reservations: +372 58150020E-mail: restoran@teletorn.ee, www.teletorn.ee

Open Wednesday-Monday 11-23, Tuesday 18-23

PARKING:The TV Tower

parking lot has 5 places for tourist

buses and 60 places for cars.

The TV Tower is located 10 km from the city centre and 4 km from the Pirita

Marina.Kloostrimetsa tee

58A, Tallinn

HOW TO GET HERE:You can take buses

34A, 38, and 49 (stop "Teletorn"), or the City Tour bus. Our premises

are handicap accessible.

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 38

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sports

Get outsideand enjoy winter

in Tallinn.

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

Did you know that there are beautiful forests, serene landsca-pes and untouched snow, all within a quick bus or train ride from Tallinn? Whether you like skiing, skating, tobogganing, snow tubing, or simply hiking, there is plenty to keep you busy this win-ter!

■ SKATING IN THE OLD TOWNHave you ever skated in the centre of a medieval town? Enjoy skating right in the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town on Harju Street. Skates are available for rental. And you can warm up with a cup of hot cocoa beside the rink.

Harju tn, Tallinn, Old Town I1

■ TALLINN SONG FESTIVAL GROUNDSIn winter the slopes of the Song Festival Grounds are packed with skiers, snowboarders, and tobog-gans. The Winter Park has a snow park with ten obstacles including flat boxes, a rainbow, A-frame, wave box, some pipes and more. Skaters can enjoy a skating rink; cross-country skiers can enjoy 1.8

kilometres of tracks, suitable for both classic and skating styles; and snow tubes are provided for snow tubing.

Narva mnt 95, Tallinn www.winterpark.eeBuses 1A , 5, 8, 34A, 38 - stop “Lauluväljak”

■ PIRITAThe trails at Pirita are used for walking in summer and skiing in winter. In winter, the trails are lit until 22.00. There are 7.2 kilomet-res of trails all together. Ski equip-

ment rental is available from the Pirita Velodrome, as well as locker and shower rental.

Pirita VelodroomRummu tee 3, Tallinnwww.piritaspordikeskus.ee (website in Estonian)

■ NÕMMEIf you have never been to this suburb of Tallinn then you’ve been missing out. This forest suburb is beautiful both in summer and in winter. It’s easily accessible by train, and you can take part in

Don’t know how to ski? Don’t worry! You can take les-sons. Prangli Travel offers cross-country ski lesson packages complete with guide, travel, and ski rental.www.tallinndaytrip.com

both cross-country and downhill skiing. Enjoy 1, 2, 3, 5, 15 kilometre cross-country ski trails from the Nõmme Spordikeskus. Ski equip-ment rental is also available.

Nõmme Spordikeskus

Külmallika 15a, Tallinn www.sportkeskus.ee (website in Estonian)Train schedules: www.elektriraudtee.ee

The Nõmme Snow Park offers downhill skiing and snowboar-ding. Equipment can be rented and individual and group lessons can be organised for beginners, more advanced skiers and snow-boarders alike.

Nõmme Snowpark (Nõmme Lumepark)Vana-Mustamäe tee 16, Tallinnwww.nommelumepark.ee

■ AEGVIIDUThe Kõrvamaa Hiking and Ski Centre has trails of 1.5km; 3km; 5km; 19km; 24km and 65km in distance, as well as 1.2km of lit

track, ideal for smaller children and practicing your technique. The Centre offers lessons and ski equipment rental. The trails are suitable for classic and freestyle.

Sportland Kõrvemaa Matka ja Suusakeskus. Oja talu, Pillapalu küla, Anija vald. www.korvemaa.ee

Aegviidu is located 56 kilometres west of Tallinn.By train: to Aegviidu www.elekt-riraudtee.eeBy bus: Bus number 882 to Uue-järve www.tpilet.ee ■

Tartu

TALLINN

Photo: Kaimo Puniste

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 3 9sport

in EstoniaIce Fishing

TEXT & PHOTOS: ROB BROOKES

Fishing is one of the most popu-lar recreational pastimes, with keen anglers flocking to the sea, rivers and lakes worldwide eager to catch that elusive fish. Strategies to entice their prey range from the simple baited hook, to the lifelike artificial lure, to the artistic beauty of the handmade fly.

Winter, however, is not the time most people associate with fishing but Estonia provides fishermen and women of all backgrounds the opportunity to try their hand at ice fishing. For the visitor hoping to experience this, the country’s numerous lakes, rivers and the Baltic coastline provide ample venues for the would-be angler chasing such species as perch and the much sought after pike.

Within the city’s boundaries, Pirita River to the east and only a few minutes’ drive from the city centre provides anglers with easy access to the ice fishing grounds near the yacht club that hosted the sailing regatta at the 1980 Moscow Olympics. To the west lies Lake Harku, another popular destina-tion for local anglers, which can be easily accessed by travelling to Väike-Õismäe by public transport to get you within a short walking distance to the lake.

Only a 45 minute drive from the capital lies the picturesque Paunküla, which makes it perfect for a half-day excursion. Lake Peipsi, which forms part of the nation’s eastern border with Rus-sia and the fourth largest in Euro-pe, is situated a short two and a

half to three hour drive from Tal-linn with the promise of a bigger catch. Guided tours can also be arranged out of the university city of Tartu located just under 200km south-east of Tallinn and Pärnu about 130km south. For the expe-rienced angler, Kuldkala, the lar-gest ice fishing competition in the Baltics, will be held on beautiful Lake Viljandi 160kms from the capital on 16 February 2013 and promises to attract several thou-sand enthusiastic anglers chasing both fish and the prizes on offer. Frequent buses from Tallinn can get you to these towns. For most people, fishing in Estonia requi-res a permit, but these are cheap.

■ DISTANCES FROM TALLINN:Paunküla - 45 minute driveLake Peipsi - 2-3 hour DriveTartu – around 200kmPärnu – 130km Viljandi – 160km

■ BUS TICKETS: www.tpilet.ee

■ ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:Kuldkala Fishing Contest - http://kuldkala.ee/go/en/41General fishing and permit infor-mation - www.fishinginfo.ee/go/en/home

■ GUIDED TOURS:Tartu - www.visittartu.com/81222Pärnu - www.tripbod.com/en/experience/Gone-IceFishing-in-Estonia-408.html

Ice CricketCricket is one of the most popular sports in the world and is played in many dif-ferent formats that require various skills and strategies. For many years, Tallinn has hosted one of the most interesting and enjoyable forms of the game, where talent is often replaced by luck and the influence of the conditions and venue. This makes it a game for all – players and non-players, men and women. Two events will be held in Tallinn this winter, 23 February and 2 March and played either on a local lake or at the Jeti Jäähall depending on the ice conditions. Matches usually begin around 1000.

Ice Cricket information:Contact Rob Brookes at: brookesr30@hotmail.comwww.facebook.com/icecricketwww.youtube.com/watch?v=ovRfOYyJK0Y

Lake Peipsi

Pärnu Viljandi

TALLINN

Paunküla

Tartu

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 310 shopping

Employers and unions agree on minimum wage increaseNext year, Estonia’s minimum wage may be set to 320 euros. The current minimum gross monthly salary is 290 euros. The Employers Confederation, representing 1,500 companies, decided to support the increase. The agreement must now be sent to the Parliament for approval.

“A higher minimum wage will boost inter-nal demand and sup-port economic growth,” said Harri Taliga, chair of the Trade Union Confederation.

Housing price index up 8.4%According to a report from Statistics Estonia, mostly rising apartment prices in Tallinn influenced the housing price index. By the third quarter, apartment prices were up 8.4% compared to the same time last year. To compile the indices, Estonia was divided into three parts geographically: Tallinn; Tallinn outer suburbs, Tartu, Pärnu, and the rest of Estonia.

4G service for smartphones in JanuaryEMT, an Estonian mobile carrier has announced that it will open Estonia’s first 4G network in January. Currently the 4G network is only available to customers using modems and routers for mobile internet. The 4G network was installed in 2010. EMT will be using a feature called CS Fallback to allow the network to switch into 3G mode for voice calls.

Bride drought in EstoniaMany of Estonia’s 227 municipalities have less 20-34 year old women than men, according to 2011 census data results. "The bride problem is by no means a new phenomenon in Estonia, although there has not been much talk of it lately. But as shown by the

census results, the situation is definitely serious,“ said Mihkel Servinski, chief ana-lyst for Statistics Estonia. In total there are more women than men in Estonia.

New building at Tallinn UniversityThe new Astra complex at Tallinn University will be home to many depart-ments, including a new library, the Institute of Informatics, Mathematics and Natural Sciences, and the Institute of Psychology. The building took six years to complete and cost 9.4 million euros to build. 83 percent of the funding came from the European Social Fund. The new 10,500-square-meter complex has five floors, a three-story library, rese-arch laboratories, auditoriums, a student café, and there are plans for a greenhou-se on the roof.

Registry of Stolen Cultural Valuables in EnglishThe online registry maintained by the National Heritage Board is now open to the public and has been translated into English. The database lists about 640 items of cultural value that have been stolen from churches and other insti-tutions. Most entries include a picture. Many of the stolen items are candlehol-ders, Orthodox icons, and silverware. The registry began in the 1970s and shows that major waves of robberies took place in the 1990s, 1999, and from 2006-07.

JanurayNews

Where to shop in TallinnTallinn’s shopping paradises are open year round and almost every day.

TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Shopping centres and big department stores are located all over Tallinn. You can find them near the port, in the city centre, as well as in the suburbs. Shop-ping centres and shops near the port cater to customers daily, except for some holidays. Many even have large supermarkets like Prisma, Selver, and Rimi, which sell everything from food, to elec-tronics, to clothing. Near the port you will find many liquor stores, geared towards the frequent Fin-nish visitor, as alcohol is much less expensive in Estonia than in Scandinavia.

One of the nicest shopping centres has to be Rocca al Mare. This massive centre was comp-leted in 1998. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops. The shops are mainly clothing and beauty related, but you can also find sports appa-rel, children’s toys, home wares, health stores and chemists, as well as a large Prisma supermar-ket where you can buy just about anything! Choose from a variety of restaurants and fast food. Enjoy the discounts at the Stockmann outlet store.

Citycon, the same company that owns Rocca al Mare, also owns Kristiine. It is a more com-pact version of the former, and bit closer to the city centre. There is

a free bus service that runs from the A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn that which connects to both centres. The bus departs every half hour between 10.00-17.00.

Looking for something a bit more central? You need not go further than the Viru Centre, located beside the Sokos Viru Hotel. Here you can visit Kauba-maja, a Tallinn department that has catered to residents for deca-des. Be sure to visit the recently renovated children’s department, and the massive shoe department. The Kaubamaja Toidumaailm food store is located on the lower-most level of the Viru Centre. If you are looking for a quick take-away lunch, or a few more groce-ries, this is your most convenient option. A long counter of hot and cold prepared foods is available to take away, and the selection changes daily.

Equally central is the Sola-ris Centre, where you can go to the cinema. All English language films are shown in English, with Estonian and Russian subtitles.

Solaris also has a good selec-tion of restaurants. Try Vapiano, located on the second floor. Here you can have pizzas, pastas, and salads made to order. The pasta is made fresh in house. In sum-mer, the top floor of the centre has an open patio. In winter, you can enjoy the view from inside

■ Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. ■ Prisma, Free bus from the port.

■ Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Prisma, Free bus from the port.

■ Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Prisma, Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja).

■ Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Prisma, Trolleys 1, 2 and 3.

Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Selver, Buses 5, 18, 32 ,36, 57.

■ Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Rimi, Buses 2, 7, 15, 65.

SHOPPING CENTRES:

■ Solaris, Estonia pst 9.

■ Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4.

■ Foorum Narva mnt 5.

Shopping centres and department stores in Tallinn:

■ Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2.

■ Stockmann, Liivalaia 53.

NEAR THE PORT:

■ Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8.

■ Kochi Aidad, Lootsi 10.

■ SadaMarket, Kai 5.

■ Merekeskus, Mere pst 10.

■ Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. Rimi

Large shopping centres are open daily 10-21 and the supermarkets 8-23.

Stockmann department store

at Komeet. Komeet is known for their delicious cakes and sweets..

For some upscale shopping try the Foorum Centre on Narva maantee. The centre has small boutique clothing and shoe sto-res, including the delightfully scented Lush store.

Stockmann department store in the city centre, is about a ten-minute walk from the Old Town. Here you can find everything from electronics, to clothing, to kitchen wares. The lowermost level of the complex has an impressive groce-ry store, a liquor store, and takea-way food counter. ■

Rocca al Mare

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 3 11sights

124Take a ride on one of Tallinn’s historic trams and see the city like a local.

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

In its 124-year history, the Tal-linn tram has lived through eight regimes, 15 name changes, and 25 owners. Tallinn’s first tram route was built in 1888. For thirty years, carriages pulled by horses ran along Tallinn’s major roads: Narva maantee, Tartu maantee, and Pärnu maantee. In 1915 the Kopli line was built, and used a combined steam and motor engi-ne. When the First World War began in 1918, the Kopli line was the only one that still ran. In 1925 electric tram-lines were built, and in 1939 the trams carried 143 mil-lion passengers. The Kopli line was finally chan-ged to an elec-tric one in 1951. In 1975, there were 162 trams in service, and in 1988, the trams carried 109 million pas-sengers.

Recently, 15 new trams have been purchased from Spain, and will replace those on the number 4 line (Tondi-Ülemiste) by the end of 2014.

The tram is a great way to see the city of Tallinn, especially if you are on a budget. There are four routes that travel from Üle-

miste, Kadriorg, Tondi, and Kopli. See colourful and historical neigh-bourhoods, and experience Tal-linn like a local!

A new ticketing systemAs of January 1, 2013, Tallinn public transport will switch to an e-ticket and smartcard ticke-ting system. Registered Tallinn residents will be able to use pub-lic transport for free. You must purchase a smartcard and link it to your ID. The smartcard must

be validated at the beginning of every journey.

For non-residents and tourists, there

are a few options. Purchase a ticket for 1.60 from the driver. Exact change is always appreciated. And don’t forget to vali-

date your ticket. You can also purcha-

se a smartcard. If you plan on using public tran-

sport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-kiosks, and are transferrable. Or, save yourself time and money by purchasing a Tallinn Card. The Tallinn Card allows you to use public transport for free, but remember to validate by touching your card to the orange reader.

What you’ll see along the way

LINE 1 KOPLI-KADRIORGStop: KadriorgStop here for the Art Museum KUMU, Kadriorg Palace, which houses an art museum, or take a peaceful walk through Kadriorg Park. Stop: Tallinna ÜlikoolThe Tallinn University was estab-lished in 2005, after the merging of several other universities. Today it has 19 academic institutions and five colleges, about 10,000 students, 500 faculty members, and over 400 international stu-dents. The university has recently finished construction on a new building.

Stop: HobujaamaThis is the city centre stop, and where the tramlines intersect. Stop here for the Viru and Forum Shopping Centres.Stop: LinnahallThis immense and crumbling concrete building was completed in 1980 for the Moscow Summer Olympic Sailing events held in Tallinn. Later used as a sport and cultural facility, today the building sits empty. In the summer you can take a helicopter to Helsinki from here with Copterline.

Stop: Balti jaamStop here for the Train Station and market. This mainly Russian mar-ket sells everything from home grown veggies to cheap shoes, to World War Two memorabilia. Open daily.Stop: TelliskiviJust around the corner from the Train Station is the bohemian neighbourhood of Kalamaja. Visit some of the quirky cafes and restaurants in some of the refur-bished warehouses. This area has many great examples of Estonian wooden architecture as well.

Stop: KopliKopli once had the largest Lutheran Baltic German cemetery, but it was flattened in the 1950s to make way for the Soviet milita-ry stations. Today, the old ceme-tery is a public park. The building

OLD TOWN

PORTA, B terminals

D terminal

AIRPORT

VIRU

BUS STATION

PELGULINN

KOPLI

KADRIORG

PELGU-RANNA

MERIMETSA

VEERENNI

TONDI

ÜLEMISTE

KALAMAJA

SIKUPILLI

1

2

3 4

4

1 3

2

RAILWAYSTATION

VABADUSE VÄLJAK

years of history

at the end of the tramline is home to the Estonian Military Academy, but once housed Tallinn Technical University.

LINE 2 KOPLI-ÜLEMISTEStop: AutobussijaamStop here for the central Bus Station.Stop: KeskturgJust before the bus station is the Tallinn Central Market. Try some Estonian smoked meats or fish, or simply take a walk around to get feel for this electic market.Stop: ÜlemisteThis is the last stop on the line, but on the way out there, the tram passes through a part of Lasnamäe district. These concrete block apartment buildings were built throughout the 1970s. The area is home to a largely Russian population.

LINE 3 TONDI-KADRIORG & LINE 4 TONDI-ÜLEMISTE

Stop: Vabaduse väljakFreedom Square was rebuilt in 2008, and the Victory Column, erected in 2009, comme-morates the Estonian War of Independence.Stop: Kosmos The Kosmos cinema was built in 1964, and is now protected by the National Heritage Fund. It is the biggest cinema in Estonia, with 737 seats.

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■ RATES FOR NON-REGIS-TERED SMARTCARD USERS

 E-ticket Price 

 1h  € 1.10 1 day € 3 3 day € 5 5 day  € 6 30 days € 23

1 2

3 4

1 3

2 4

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 312 restaurants

Georgian Tavern Tbilisi is a new addition to the Old Town restaurant scene.

At the Georgian table

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

If you’ve wandered through

Tallinn, you’ve probably noticed quite a few Georgian restaurants. Georgian Tavern Tbilisi is a favou-rite. A meal at this restaurant is more like a family meal at home. The dishes are prepared fresh to order, so sit back and enjoy a bottle of Georgian wine while you wait.

georgian

LocationGeorgian Tavern TbilisiRüütli 18, Tallinn Old Town I1www.tbilisi.eeFacebook: Georgian Tavern Tbilisi

Legend: ■ € - Under 10€ ■ €€ - 11-25€ ■ €€€ - 25€ + (cost of 2 course meal per person)

It’s a myth that all Georgian wines are sweet; in fact Georgians prefer dry wines. For dry whites, stick to the tsinandali grape varie-ty; and for a dry red, try mukuzani or the full-bodied saperavi. There are descriptions beside each of the wines on the list, should you need a bit of guidance! If you are with a group, or even as a pair, choose a few dishes to share. While the portions may appear small, they are filling. The cheese hachapuri (melted cheese in flatbread) are a good start. A favourite are the hin-

kali (meat dumplings), which you pick up by the top and eat from the bottom, trying not the spill the liquid inside. The pork sash-lik (grilled meat skewers) is coo-ked well and served with a tomato dressing; but the lamb chops have to be this writer’s favourite! ■

The Kebab KingEnjoy vegetarian cooking at Papa Joe’s.

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: JOSEPH ABOU-RAAD

The Sadama Market at the Port

of Tallinn seems to have struggled over the last few years, but since its remodelling and reopening this year, some great little shops have opened inside. Papa Joe’s is one of them.

This might seem an unlikely location for a falafel takeaway, a bit of a walk from the Old Town, but if you are craving a bit of spice and are vegetarian, it’s worth the walk. Better still, if arriving by ship, then why not stop in for snack on your way into town.

The menu is small. Choose bet-ween a falafel pita, falafel wrap, falafel salad, or hummus and pita. You can also buy hummus, baba ghanoush, and dolmas to take away. The falafels are prepared while you wait, and the friendly staff is always chatty and eager to tell you more about the food. The only things that are missing are a few tables, as at the moment, it’s standing room only. ■

LocationPapa JoeSadama Market (Sadama Turg)Sadama 25-4, Tallinn A2(just inside the main entrance)www.kebabking.eeFacebook: Papa Joe

middle eastern

WELL SEASONEDSalt restaurant in Tallinn could just be one of the

city’s best-kept culinary secrets.

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

Opened this past summer, Salt is quickly becoming a favourite. This cosy 26-seat restaurant is open for both lunch and dinner, and boo-kings are a must.

The dinner menu changes weekly, and lunch specials are offered daily. Classic French bist-ro cooking, with the odd fusion dish tossed in inspires the menu. If you want to be close to the culi-nary action, you can sit right next to the open kitchen, and watch the chef hard at work. Salt prides themselves on being able to source as many ingredients as possible, locally.

Like most restaurants seem to be doing these days in Tallinn, Salt advertises their menu on their

Facebook page (in both English and Estonian). Staple favourites reappear, like the whitefish tartar, and variations of foie gras. As a main, we tried duck confit, served with red cabbage and parsnips, as well as the pikeperch with fennel, lemongrass, and pumpkin cream.

LocationSalt RestoranVase 14, Tallinn B3www.saltrestoran.ee

bistro And be sure to leave room for des-sert; the tarte tatin was divine! ■

Söökla

Go back in time at this Soviet era inspired diner, but with much bet-ter food! Daily specials are posted on their Facebook page everyday, and include favourite comfort foods like pea soup, dumplings (pelmeenid), and macaroni with mincemeat.

This diner/cafeteria is self-serve. Line up with your tray for warm foods and cold salads. Bread, juices and other drinks, as well as dessert are portioned. And

after you’ve eaten, don’t forget to bus your plates. A complete lunch, drink, main and dessert should cost you no more than 5!

Take the Tondi trams 3 or 4 to the end of the line, and walk around the building from the left hand side to the Söökla entran-ce. ■

LocationSööklaPärnu mnt 142, Tallinnwww.söökla.ee

estonian

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 3 13restaurants

TOP ESTONIAN CUISINEThe 50 best restaurants in Estonia are chosen every year.

TEXT: MIKKO SAVIKKO,

PHOTOS: EESTI MAITSED/ LAURI LAAN

■ Best RuralThe Pädaste Manor Hotel res-taurant Alexander, located on the island of Muhu has made it onto the list for the third year in a row, as the country’s best. You don’t have to drive to Muhu however; the dishes inspired by the cuisi-ne of the Nordic Islands are avai-lable to taste in Tallinn as well. Visit Neh, number eight on the list, located near the port.

■ Best in TallinnTchaikovsky is located inside the stylish Telegraaf Hotel in the Old Town. This Russian restaurant has been steadily climbing the list over the past few years. And not surpri-sing, it made it to second place this year.

■ The SurpriseThe Tallinn restaurant Leib rose very quickly on the list this year. This locally focused restaurant, with a great wine list and know-ledgeable staff is a Tallinn favou-rite.

Estonia’s 50 Best Restaurants

(For the complete list visit: www.eestimaitsed.com)

� Alexander, Pädaste Manor, Muhu Island

� Tchaikovsky, Vene 9, Tallinn Old Town

� OKO, Punase laterna 1, Kaberneeme Port, Jõelähtme, Harjumaa

� Chedi, Sulevimägi 1, Tallinn Old Town

� Põhjaka, Mäeküla, Paide vald, Järvamaa

� Leib, Uus 31, Tallinn Old Town

� Moon, Võrgu 3, Tallinn

Neh, Lootsi 4, Tallinn

Bordoo, Pikk 71/Tolli 2, Tallinn Old Town

�� Ribe, Vene 7, Tallinn Old Town

Alexander

Aivar Hanson has been organi-sing the 50 Best Restaurants list for five years. The Baltic Guide asked him what criteria he uses to rate them, and how the win-ners have changed over time.

How do you choose?“The restaurants are chosen by other restaurant professionals. A maximum of three people can go to rate a restaurant. Other restaurant owners, chefs, and servers rate restaurants. Everyo-ne can name seven restaurants, and they can’t choose their own restaurant, obviously. There are about 200 restaurant reviewers in total, and are usually emplo-yees of previously chosen top restaurants.”

What changes have occurred over the past five years?It was possible to advertise your restaurant before. Now they are more experienced and opiniona-ted, such that the “more intel-ligent” are not listened to any-more.

Local is bestA good restaurant has a full

dining room. Of the new restau-rants, you can get a clear pictu-re already within the first week of opening, if they will succeed or not.

Old fine dining restaurants are not in style anymore and they have lost clients. People want to eat out, but at the same time have it be affordable.

How does the future seem?Copying others does not work. Estonian restaurants are chan-ging to be more local, but at the same time still international. A good example is Eivere Manor, which was started by a Finn but is now run by a Japanese person. The future belongs to those smal-ler establishments that focus on local traditions.

Good restaurants use local ingredients, and some have even made their own gardens and paid people to pick berries and mushrooms. They make their own bread, and bottled water is disappearing from the menus. ■

■ Best in TartuTartu’s best restaurant changes every year. It doesn’t get more Ita-lian than La Dolce Vita. A favou-rite of this student town, this piz-zeria has already been open for ten years.

■ Best in PärnuIn Pärnu the best restaurant is actually a café, popular among tourists and locals alike. Supel-saksad is just “so Pärnu,” no matter what the time of year.

Leib

TchaikovskyLa Dolce VIta

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 314 beauty

Straightening LINES

Tallinn’s top non-surgical beauty clinic has been Medemis for seven

years in a row.

TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS MEDEMIS

The clinic is located in the city centre, near the Viru Centre. They offer Botox, along with many other anti-aging procedures.

We tried the facial chemi-cal peel and meso therapy. The centre’s director Jevgenia Maka-rova, who told us that Medemis is popular among tourists, per-formed the procedure. The pur-

LocationMedemis, Narva mnt. 7. Tallinn B3.

pose of the peel is to remove dead layers of skin cells, but at the same time promoting healthy ones. A lactic acid based cream is put on the skin and is left for 20 minutes under cellophane. The procedure was not painful or uncomfortable, all that was felt was a mild war-ming sensation.

For the meso therapy, a small injection of vitamins and mine-rals is made into the central layer of the skin. On the more sensiti-ve areas of the skin you may feel

a light pinching sensation, but in general this was a relatively tole-rable procedure that leaves your skin fresh and moisturised. For the best results, Jevgenia Maka-rova suggested regular visits, but even on the first try, you could see the results.

A free consultation is provided by a specialist who suggests what procedures are right for you. But it is ultimately up to the client what procedures they want. We were offered Botox injections, but

we would not have been able to try the meso therapy at the same time.

The service at Medemis is pro-fessional and friendly. The pro-cedures are reasonably priced, even by Estonian standards. For example, the facial peel and meso, which lasted one hour cost about 150. ■

Medemis Beauty Clinic offers Botox and many other anti-aging procedures.

your nailsLoveJust because the holiday season is over,

doesn’t mean you shouldn’t treat yourself to a manicure.

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

On a chilly winter’s day, the Nail Spa in Tallinn is bustling with hands and feet, ready to be pampered. Enjoy a tea or coffee while you relax, or a chat with your neighbour. The Nail Spa is often filled with chatty regulars.

The Nail Spa uses both OPI and ProNail products. ProNail is well-trusted Belgian brand, and offers both classic and gel polis-hes. While the classic manicure does take a bit longer, you can enjoy a hand soak, exfoliation, and

massage: all things that are well deserved after the holidays. And then choose from a selection of classic and modern colours for your polish.

Esti Ehatamm, manager at the Nail Spa explained, “we even offer manicures and pedicures for men. ProNails has four products desig-ned especially for men for mois-turising, filing, cuticle care, and to prevent biting.

ProNail uses natural ing-redients and extracts in their Hand Care line of soaps, scrubs, creams, and cuticle oils. The Olive

Oil Hand Cream is particularly soothing for dry skin in winter. The Vitamina Nourishing Cuticle Oil has a mild almond scent, and is recommended for daily use.

The friendly and professional service at Nail Spa is just part of the reason clients keep coming back. Walk-ins are welcome, but bookings are always advised.■

LocationNail SpaNarva mnt 9, Tallinn B3www.nailspa.ee

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 3 15museum

TALLINN

■ Museums Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1Gwww.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 10–17

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum) Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum)Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2www.tmm.ee. We-Sa 10-18

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion PassagesKommandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-181.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda)L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17 Winter by appointment only.

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu)Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.eeWe 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU)Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum)Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square)www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum)Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/N.B. 01.11.12-31.03.2012 closed on MondaysPlease contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

■ Art Museums & GalleriesAdamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum)Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 11–18

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuu-seum.eeJan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17July–Dec 2012 Closed for renovations.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.eeJan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5www.kumu.eeOct–Apr:  We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum)Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30

TARTU

■ MuseumsEstonian Literary Museum (Eesti Kirjandusmuuseum)Vanemuise 42, Tartuwww.kirmus.ee. Mo-Th 9 - 17, Fr 9 - 16.30

Estonian National Museum (Eesti Rahva Muuseum)Kuperjanovi 9, Tartuwww.erm.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Estonian Sports Museum (Eesti Spordimuuseum)Rüütli 15, Tartuwww.spordimuuseum.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

KGB Cells Museum (KGB Kongide Muuseum)Riia 15b, Tartuhttp://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. Tu-Sa 11- 16

Museum of the 19th Century Citizen of Tartu (19. Saj. Tartu Linnakodaniku Muuseum)Jaani 16, Tartuhttp://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. We-Su 10-15

Postal Museum (Postimuuseum)Rüütli 15, Tartuwww.erm.ee/en/visit/postal-museum. We-Su 11- 18

Tartu City Museum (Tartu Linnamuuseum)Narva 23, Tartu. Tu-Sa 11- 18http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Old Observatory (Tähetorn)Lossi 40, TartuTu-Su 10 - 18. http://www.ajaloomuuseum.ut.ee/tahetorn

Tartu Song Festival Museum (Tartu Laulupeomuuseum)Jaama 14, TartuTu-Sa 12 - 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu Mänguasjamuuseum)Lutsu 8, Tartu www.mm.ee. We – Su 11 – 18

City Hall Museum (Raemuuseum)Raekoda, Tartu (Town Hall Square)http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee/?m=415.09-14.05 Mo 9-18, Tu-Fr 9-17, Sa-Su 10-1415.05 -14-09 Mo-Fr 9-18, Sa-Su 10-17

■ Art Museums & GalleriesTartu Art Museum (Tartu Kunstimuuseum)Raekoja plats 18, Tartuhttp://www.tartmus.eeWe-Sa 12:00 - 18:00, Su 11:00 - 18:00

Tartu Art House (Tartu Kunstimaja)Vanemuise 26, Tartuwww.kunstimaja.eeWe-Mo 12-18

A winter oasisKadriorg Park is Tallinn’s cultural

and outdoor oasis, even in winter.

Kadriorg Palace was built by Tsar Peter I for his empress Catherine.

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TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th cen-tury. The park and the palace were built by Peter the Great, who apparently helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. Peter however, could not build modestly, otherwise what would his wife Catherine have thought, who would later become empress. With that in mind, came the building of the gorgeous imperial sum-mer home. During the construction of the house, Peter the Great lived in their winter house, which still stands today at the park’s edge and houses a museum.

Architect Niccolo Michetti planned the palace and the park, which was made to resemble the Italian palaces of the time.Italian design can still be seen in the park, as well as in certain places inside the castle, despite later renovations.

Kadriorg Palace houses the foreign art collection of the Estonian Art Museum. There is no better place to admire 16th century art and furniture. At the Kadriorg Art Museum you get a true sense of the building's history. The park has really deve-loped over the past few years, and there is even a Japanese garden. In winter, it’s just a short walk to the Song Festival Grounds

for tobogganing.Kadr iorg is

much more than a park and a palace. Visit the KUMU Art Museum. Along with Estonian art, you can enjoy the restaurant and café located inside.

There are not many places to eat in Kad-riorg, but their quality surpasses their quantity. There is so much to see in Kad-riorg. In the mid-dle of the park, near the Luige-tiik (swan p o n d ) , i s the children’s m u s e u m Miia-Mil la-Manda. ■

■ Restaurants & Cafés:

Villa Thai. Vilmsi 6. Asian cuisine.Restoran & Spagheteria Kadriorg, Weizenbergi 18. Italian cuisine.Cantina Carramba, A. Weizenbergi 20B. Authentic Mexican cuisine.Kumu. Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1. Modern Estonian cuisine and a pleasant café.Miia Milla Manda, Koidula 21 C. Children’s muse-um café for the whole family.Kadriorg, Poska 45. A café located at the corner of the park.

Museums and other points of interest:

� Kumu, Estonian Art Museum� Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), Western European and Russian art from the 16th–20th centuries.� Mikkel Museum (Mikkeli muuseum), Collection of Johannes Mikkel: the Art of Western Europe, Russia, and China from the 16th-20th centuries.� A. H. Tamsaare Museum (A. H. Tamsaare muuseum), Museum inside the house of the well known writer.� Eduard Vilde Museum (Eduard Vilde muu seum), Museum of the well known writer.� Peter I House Museum (Peeter Suure maja-muuseum), Where Peter I lived during the con-struction of his summer home.� Maarjamäe Castle (Maarjamäe loss), Estonian History Museum (towards Pirita) Russalka Monument, Memorial for the sinking of the Russian warship Russalka or “Mermaid.” Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak), �� Kadriorg Park, espe-cially the "Luigetiik" or Swan Pond.

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■ SmDraakPikk 18, Twww.eaMo-Fr 11

HobusHobusepwww.eaWe-Mo 1

KunstiPikk 34, Twww.alleMo-Fr 10Tallinna Vabaduswww.kuWe-Su 1

Insight into the life in Estonia during

three occupations (1940-1991)

MUSEUM OF OCCUPATIONS Toompea 8, 10142 Tallinn

www.okupatsioon.eemuuseum@okupatsioon.ee

Tel +372 66 80 250Open Tue-Sun 11.00 - 18.00

nightlife T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2

Every month, English ex-pat Mark Benn shares

his thoughts on where to spend your evening,

be it drinking, dancing, or going to a gig.

Elephants from NeptuneHow do you get through January? With

some good ol' rock and roll.

16

Some people say that Elephants

from Neptune are from the sands of the planet Neptune, others say that they are in fact merely mor-tals from Estonia. Whatever the truth, one fact remains: they cer-tainly kick ass.

While we may all like to sit in wonder at something truly imagi-native, or lose ourselves in a sonic sound-scape, there remains a part of every human who just wants to get down to some dirty, groovy rock and roll. And it's for these times that the band’s eponymous début is made. With songs tit-

les such as Exploding Love and Snake Eyes, you know what you're going to get: blistering bluesy bass lines, guitars ramped up to 11 and the feral growl that leads us back to where rock music should be. Elephants from Neptune offer us something entrenched in that American rock sound, but strip-ped of its posturing and intel-lectualism. It's hard not to like something that pays homage to its roots with so little pretension. It isn't sophisticated, but it is cer-tainly damn good fun. ■

Listen to:

Photo: Rene Altrov

Photo: Kaur Ilves

TALLINN: live and aliveWith a number of mid to small-sized venues around the city,

Tallinn can cater for all your live music tastes.

It's always the big concerts and the big venues that grab the headlines. With posters all round town on every lamppost and dustbin, it's hardly a surpri-se that some of Tallinn's small to mid-sized venues get lost in publicity. Thankfully, there is plenty out there to keep any live music fan entertained.

Von Krahl has recently celebrated its 20th anniversary as Tallinn's cultural heart and live music continues to play an important role in its make up. Thursdays, Fridays, and Satur-days often pay host to some of the more arty and experimental artists from home and abroad. Von Krahl also hosts a number of club nights for the indie bop-per or grime wannabe.

Sinilind (mentioned elsew-here on these pages) is also star-ting to make a name for itself as a venue. From indie rock to hip-hop, there's plenty going on here to keep you entertained.

Tallinn seems to have a number of venues that appeal to heavily tattooed young men with a preference for black t-shirts. Rock club Tapper with its black walls, cheap beer and sticky floors is a true live music venue which plays host to a number of local and inter-national metal acts.

Slightly bigger but in the same vain is Rock Café. Seem-

ingly more international in out-look, they have a number of events from metal to hip-hop to folk-rock that should leave the live music fan salivating. It also pays host to R2's monthly live concerts, a great place to see some of the best Estonian talent while pay-ing a visit.

As for the smaller venues, Woodstock is a delightful little cave that pays host to a number of bands who would have scared the audience at its 1960's name-sake while Kodu often has some fine low-fi indie bands and guitar strummers.

Away from rock music, Tallinn also has plenty of places to sample some jazz. A regular Jazz club is held at Teatre NO99 on Fridays featuring talent from across the content while Clazz throws up a heady mixture of live jazz, samba, funk and more most nights of the week.

Von KrahlRataskaevu 10, Tallinn Old Town H1www.vonkrahl.ee

SinilindMüürivahe 50, Tallinn Old Town H3www.facebook.com/Koh-vikSinilind/

Rockclub TapperPärnu maantee 158, Tallinn C2 www.tapper.ee

RockCafeTartu mnt 80d, Tallinn B3www.rockcafe.ee

WoodstockTatari 6, Tallinn B2woodstock.ee

KoduVaimu 1, Tallinn A2www.kodubaar.ee

Teatre 99Sakala 3, Tallinn B2www.no99.ee

ClazzVana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2www.clazz.ee/

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 3 17

Tallinn has a vibrant nightlife. The city has many kinds of clubs and pubs, fancy or casual. There is something for everyone. Be sure to check out individual club websites for upcoming gigs.

Tallinn Nightlife

Sports

ClayhillsPikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1

Drink Baar Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2

Hell HuntPikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2

Mad Murphy’sMündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2

Nimeta BaarSuur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2

Live Music

Café AmigoViru väljak 4, Tallinn B2

Chicago 1933Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3

ClazzVana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2

Guitar HuntPärnu mnt 19, Tallinn

Rock CaféTartu mnt 80D, Tallinn

Von KrahlTown H1

Gay

G-punktPärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

X-baarTatari 1, Tallinn

Nightclubs

Arena 3Sadama 6, Tallinn A3

BonBonMere pst 6E, Tallinn A2

CatHouseViru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2

Club BailaSauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

Club HollywoodVana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2

Club MüntMürivahe 22, Tallinn Old Town I2

Club PrivéHarju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1

Club StudioSauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

PanoraamAhtri 10, Tallinn A2

ParlamentAhtri 10, Tallinn A2

ParteiRävala pst 8, Tallinn B2

PlubValli 1, Tallinn Old Town I3

TapperPärnu mnt 158G, Tallinn

TeaterVabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1

VabankHarju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1

VenusVana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 2 17

Club HollywoodIn the past, Suur-Karja was the

street that the country folk used to transport their livestock from the pasture to a spring where they could drink. It seems apt that today it’s the street where Tallinn's finest come to down their shots and dance the night away.

Located at its epicentre is Club Hollywood, possibly the most raucous venue in town. At weekends a full house is almost guaranteed along with an assort-

LoDrVaiww

ment of fun-seeking tourists and party-going locals.

The club itself, with its vast dance-floor, raised platforms, and scantily-clad go-go girls, has managed to put together a num-ber of regular club nights that should keep everyone happy, from drum n' bass to pop to house and to R'n'B, Hollywood caters for all manner of tastes.

Special mention should be made for the weekly Ladies Night. Every Friday the girls are given

free entry for a night of Hip Hop, Reggae, R'n'B, Latin and pop tunes spun by the club’s DJ's. While not the most original marketing ploy, it certainly seems to work and a large group can be seen outside the door, waiting in the cold for another evening of fun. ■

LocationClub HollywoodVana-posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2www.clubhollywood.ee

Go dancing at:

Baltic Guide recommends:

nightlife

Go drinking at:

Photo: Jakke Farra

SinilindSinilind's cool, urban atmosphere in a

world of Soviet-kitsch will warm up any January visitor to Tallinn.

While mention of Estonia's

Soviet past may create an awk-ward silence when brought up in conversation, there's no doubt that much of its furniture has taken on something of a renais-sance among Estonia's trendy cars and cafés.

Sinilind is a prime example. When you enter you are taken aback by the Soviet-kitsch on offer; from the wooden tables, retro armchairs and seats that are liable to buckle under the weight of a 21st century man, it's all there.

However, to call Sinilind mere-ly a monument to past times is unfair: it's just a part of this club/café’s appeal. During the day it

acts as a simple café with an impressive beer list and some good, inexpensive food, but at night the place changes. It's, to borrow a sci-fi term from the BBC's Doctor Who, tardis-like layout reveals a dance floor that a casual visitor could easily ignore, and a host of events such as regu-lar club nights, gigs, and even a cinema night that explains why Sinilind has become the Tallinn hipsters bar of choice. ■

LocationKohvik SinilindMüürivahe 50, Tallinn Old Town H3www.facebook.com/KohvikSinilind

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 318 history

10,000 BC The Ice Age ends and people arrive in the territory of Estonia.

11th Century The main source of subsist-ence is agriculture and the provincial government is formed.

1200s The Livonian Brotherhood of the Sword is formed in Southern Estonia and the Danish occupy Northern Estonia.

1343 St. George’s Night uprising. Estonian peasants rise up against the occupiers with modest success.

1346 Denmark sells land in Estonia to the Teutonic Order.

1558 Ivan the Terrible of Russia goes to war against Livonia, when Estonia com-prised part of Latvia. The war began in 1553 and included Denmark, Sweden and Poland. Estonia and Latvia were divided among Poland (Latvia and Southern Estonia), Sweden (Northern Estonia), and Denmark (Saaremaa).

1600s Schools are set up and the University of Tartu (1632) is under Swedish rule.

1700–1710 The Great Northern War inflicts fruitless years of famine and plague. The population decreases from 350,000 to 100,000.

1710 Tallinn and Uusikaupunki belong to Russia after the Treaty of Nystad.

1800s The power of the Tsar diminishes, serfdom is abolished and peasants are given the right to purchase land (1860). In 1914, half of the land belongs to the German nobility. Political power remains in the hands of the nobility.

1917 With the fall of the Russian Empire, Estonia receives autonomy. Estonia organises elections and Konstantin Päts becomes head of government.

1918 Germany occupies Estonia. The Estonian Provincial Assembly declares Estonia’s independence on February 24. Estonian forces fight against German and Russian forces.

1919 Estonian War of Independence contin-ues and ends on 02.02.1920 in Tartu.

1920 The first formal law of Independent Estonia is made to expand democracy. Many small political parties are formed.

1929–35 The economic and political crisis of 1929-35 results in a state of emergency and a disbandment of the parliament. Päts rules by decree.

1937 A new constitution is written, 1938 Päts becomes president, there is a return to constitutional governance, but full democracy is not reached prior to the Soviet occupation.

1939 The German-Soviet Non-Aggression Pact is signed. On September 28, Estonia is forced to allow the Soviet Army to set up military bases in Estonia.

1940 “Elections” are held, after which Estonia becomes a Soviet Republic (27.7.) and merges with the Soviet Union.

1940–41 The Germans occupy Estonia. Nearly 70 000 Estonians join the German army. In September 1944, the Red Army sweeps in on Estonia again.

1944–91 Estonia is Soviet Estonia. Near the end of 1944, a large part of the popula-tion flees abroad. About 10,000 men (The Forest Brothers) will continue to fight.

1948 25,000 Estonians are deported to camps in the east. In 1940 the Estonian population was estimated at 1.1 mil-lion, but by 1949 it had decreased to 850,000.

1955 Over 200,000 non-Estonians move to Estonia. In 1980, more than 60% of the population is Estonian.

1987 An attempt is made by Estonians to break from the Soviet Union. There are demonstrations, including the envi-ronmental campaign against opening large phosphorus mines in Virumaa.

1988 The Singing Revolution, Estonia declares its sovereignty on 16.11.1988.

1991 Estonia regains independence on August 20 after the failure of the coup d’état in Moscow.

2004 Estonia joins the European Union and NATO.

2011 The Euro replaces the Crown, used since 1992 as currency.

A Brief History of Estonia

z

The passages are not in fact all under-ground.

Underground TALLINN

Kiek in de Kök & the Bastion Tunnels

TEXT TOOMAS KÄBIN , PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

Whatever is underground is considered mysterious and inspi-res curiosity. There are numerous legends about medieval passages under Tallinn’s Old Town.

In 2010 part of the under-ground passages were renovated and opened to the public. The pas-sages are equipped with excellent lighting and ventilation systems; they are dry and clean. The pas-sages are accessible from the most beloved fortification tower in Tal-linn – Kiek in de Kök, which is a part of the Tallinn City Museum.

The passages are open to the public, however only as part of a tour with an experienced guide. They will tell you the history of Tallinn through the centuries in a most fascinating way. Excursions start with a funny and sarcastic cartoon about the history of Esto-nia and Tallinn. Once you get to the end you have lost all sense of direction and time, not the least because the tour is rounded off by a futuristic and entertaining train ride, along with video and sound effects that take you into the year 2219. Only a few meters away from the passages, on the other side of the wall, the vibrant life of con-temporary Tallinn awaits.

The passages are not in fact all underground. Rather you walk along the inner wall of the forti-fications or bastions. Their histo-ry goes back to the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries when Estonia was under Swedish rule and protected itself against other

LocationKomandandi tee 2, Tallinn, B1www.linnamuuseum.ee

intruders. Their main enemy was Russia.

The first passages date back to the 1630s when earth was moved from Tõnismägi Hill to the Dome Hill or Toompea. The Swedish and Ingermanland Bas-tion, along with some others were completed towards the end of the same century. Soon after Sweden lost Estonia to Russia, the bastions lost their strategic importance. In reality, they have never been used, neither for military, nor for other operations.

The purpose of the basti-ons was to enable firing upon

attacking enemies on two flanks, with guns lined up on top of the bastions.

The hidden passages were constructed inside the bastions in order to shelter the men, ammu-nition and supplies, but especially to hide their relocation from the enemy. The passages also served as observation posts to spy on enemy activities.

The tunnels for the passages were made of limestone 1.5 metres wide and 2.5-3 metres high. The walls were up to four meters thick. The ceilings of the passages were provided with ventilation holes. Today 470 metres are open to visi-

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The café on the top floor of the tower offers a beautiful view over the Old Town.

The tunnels for the passages were made of limestone.

tors. In the future there might be more.

For centuries the passages were used as storerooms. Some were destroyed, others turned into parks.

In the late 1930s the passages were used as air-raid shelters. During the Soviet occupation they were provided with separa-te electricity and ventilation sys-

tems, running water, telephone communications, toilets and bed-rooms. They were meant to offer shelter to high rank party officials in case of war. By the late 1970s some passages were cleaned from waste. They were used as storage for museums and in the 1990s as shelter for the homeless.

Once you are back on the ground, why not take a look at Tallinn from the top floor café at the Kiek in de Kök. From there you have a magnificent view of Tallinn’s upper town, lower town and the harbour. Seeing all this beauty, it is understandable why foreign powers throughout the centuries have taken a liking to Estonia and Tallinn! ■

Kiek in de Kök is part of the Tallinn City Museum.

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 3 19

Must-see sights of Tallinn

IN THE OLD TOWN:

■ The watchtowers of Suur-Kloostri and Väike-Kloostri allow access to Nunna Tower and from there, access to Sauna Tower and Kuldjala Tower.

■ Town Hall Square (Raekoda). Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

■ Built in 1246, St. Catherine’s Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn.

■ Mustapeade House. Built in 1399 for the Brotherhood of Blackheads and is Tallinn’s only renaissance build-ing.

■ The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe’s oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location in the Town Hall Square.

The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League.1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German

Order. Toompea was divided amongst princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town.

1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish.1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and

Tallinn.1918 Estonia declares independence and

Tallinn becomes its capital.1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy

Tallinn.1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in

March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital

and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics.

1991 Tallinn becomes the Estonian capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

A quick history of the city of Tallinn

sightseeing in Tallinn

OUTSIDE OF THE OLD TOWN:

■ Freedom Square (Vabaduse väl-jak). This square holds great symbolic importance and is located just south of the Old Town. The pillar located at the edge of the square, consists of a large pedestal with the Cross of Liberty (Vabadusrist) placed on top. This monument reads: “Estonian War of Independence 1918–1920”. On its other side in a the Freedom Bell (Vabaduse kell).

■ Kadriorg Park. This area houses the Presidential Palace and the pal-ace of Peter the Great, where today the KUMU Art Museum stands. There are plenty of other things to see as well, in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace head straight along the park trail to the Rusalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland.

■ The Tallinn Song Festival Grounds (Tallinna lauluväljak). Built in 1960, this amphitheatre can hold more than 30 000 singers. These grounds played an important part of the process that led to the restoration of Estonian independence, the initial phase in the Singing Revolution.

■ The Ruins of St. Bridget’s Convent (Pirita Klooster). Located near Pirita Beach, this monastery was built in 1407 during the Swedish occupation. The convent was destroyed by Ivan the Terrible’s troops in 1577.

■ The Tallinn Botanical Gardens. 4,500 varieties of plants and 123 hec-tares of greenhouses, and parks, the Botanical Gardens are an oasis in the summer and winter.

■ Tallinn Zoo. Approximately 90 hectares, this zoo houses many rare

species as well as many large mam-mals, including elephants, polar bears, chimpanzees and rhinoceros. Located opposite the Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre.

■ Kalamaja District (Fish House) is the area to visit if you want to get a taste for old Tallinn. The wooden houses are typical of those built in the 1920s and 30s, during the first period of Estonian independence. In recent years, this area has become

quite bohemian, with many artists, and young entrepreneurs taking up residence here.

■ Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era pris-on life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.

Town Hall Square

Town Hall Pharmacy

The snow-covered Song Festival Grounds

Toompea Castle

Patarei Prison

The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanse-atic traders and the upper town, or Toompea was inhabited by nobility.The lower part of Tallinn’s Old Town can be seen from viewing plat-forms at Toompea. The best view of Toompea is from the tower of St. Olaf’s Church.

■ 1 Kohtu PlatformThe Kohtu street platform offers the best view of the Old Town and is a must-see. After a visit to the platform, the likelihood of getting lost in the labyrinth-like streets of the lower town is smaller. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arms length. The gracious spire of the medieval City Hall has an Oriental touch and resembles that of the Pühavaimu Church (Church of Holy Spirit). The red tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. ■ 2 Patkul PlatformThe Patkul platform shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church used to be even taller in medieval times and was actually the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a bet-ter angel. The harbour and the sea are lying just in front. The Patkul stairs take you more or less to the city cen-tre, and to the Tallinn railway station. Take a look to the left, and parallel with the platform you will see the pillars of Stenbock Palace, the seat of the Estonian government. Tallinn

■ 3 Kiriku PlatformThe platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view

Tallinn with a viewof splendid and romantic sunsets. The area is more genuine, calm, and bohemian than around other plat-forms.

■ 4 Best of both worldsClimb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of the Toompea Hill, and the upper town. ■ 5 Toompea Castle and Pikk Hermann Tower.The Toompea Tower (15th cen-tury) and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. The 46-meter tower is best seen if you walk downhill from Lossi plats square along Falgi Street. Now, turn around, look up and the impressive wall of the medieval fortification with the Pikk Hermann (Tall Hermann) will greet you!

tiik

3

1

2

3

4

5

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E ™ J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 320M B E R 2 0 1 1O B E R 2 0 1 2

■ Useful Phrases

please ...........................................palunthank you ...................................aitäh, tänanexcuse me ..................................vabandagehello..............................................tere, tervistgood morning ..........................tere hommikustgood day.....................................tere päevastgood evening............................tere õhtustgood night .................................head öödgoodbye .....................................nägemist, head aegaall the best..................................kõike head, kõike paremathave a good trip .......................head reisibon appetite ............................. jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ............terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab?Do you have…? .................................. kas teil on? on teil?where is… ............................................ kus on…What is this?......................................... mis see on?What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab?How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate?How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb?not bad .................................................. pole viga!nice to see you/to meet you .......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtudait was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvudaWhat time is it? ................................... palju kell on?I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keeltDo you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt?/Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

1 January –New Year’s Day

24 February –Independence Day

Easter Good Friday1 May – Spring Holiday;Pentecost;23 June – Victory Day;24 June – Midsummer’s Day;20 August –

Re-independence Day;24 December –

Christmas Eve;25 December –

Christmas Day;26 December –

Boxing DayThe work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2012/2013 School HolidaysChristmas break 22 December, 2012 - 6 January, 2013Spring break 16-24 March, 2013Summer break 5 June - 31 August, 2013

Holidays

How to make a phone call in Estonia, from Estonia, to Estonia

■ Using a mobile phone from Estonia to make a call to

another country:

+ (country code)(phone number)

■ When calling Estonia, enter country code +372, and then

the phone number. For example +372 2 222 222.

■ When calling from within Estonia, the country code may

be omitted. For example, 777 7777.

WIFI NetworksThere are over 1000 wireless hotspots listed at www.wifi.ee.

Estonia is known for its extensive network of free internet

hotspots. For example, in Tallinn there are 185 and most of

them are marked in green, meaning they can be used free of

charge. The Viru Shopping Centre, as well as many hotels and

bars also offer free connections. In some places, a password

may be required to access the free network.

If you are in need of a constant internet connection, it

may be best to purchase a pre-paid plan from a mobile ser-

vice provider.

Event TicketsTickets for events and concerts in Estonia are sold at Piletilevi,

Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro.

Piletilevi (www.piletilevi.ee)

On-line purchases require login. Sales outlets can be found

in shopping centres, and at Statoil petrol stations.

Piletimaailm (www.piletimaailm.com) The website is avail-

able in Estonian only and sells theatre tickets. Sales outlets

can be found in theatres and supermarkets.

Ticketpro (www.ticketpro.ee) Sales outlets can be found

in post officesand at the Solaris Shopping Centre.

Accepted in nearly 100 loca-tions, the Tallinn Card gives you free entrance and discounts.

Tallinn Card is available at: Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn

Tartu: Raekoda plats 1A, Tartu

Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu

Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva

Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere

Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide

Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina

Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva

Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare

Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla

Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu

Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi

Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää

Valga: Kesk 11, Valga

Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi

Võru: Jüri 12, Võru

Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

Picture: Kaarel Mikkin

AUSTRIA

Vambola 6, 10114 Tallinn+372 627 8740

BELGIUM

Rataskaevu 2-9, 10123 Tallinn, +372 627 4100

BULGARIA

A. Lauteri 5E, 10114 Tallinn+372 648 0388

CANADA

Toom-Kooli 13, 10130 Tallinn, +372 627 3311

CZECH REPUBLIC

Lahe 4, 10150 Tallinn+372 627 4400

DENMARK

Wismari 5, 10136 Tallinn+372 630 6400

FINLAND

Kohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn, +372 610 3200

FRANCE

Toom-Kuninga 20, 10122 Tallinn, +372 616 1600

GEORGIA

Viru väljak 2, 10111 Tallinn+372 698 8590

GERMANY

Toom-Kuninga 11, 15048 Tallinn, +372 627 5303

GREECE

Pärnu mnt 12, 10148 Tallinn, +372 640 3560

HUNGARY

Narva mnt 122, 13628 Tallinn, +372 605 1880

ICELAND

Tõnismägi 3A, 10119 Tallinn, +372 640 8711

IRELAND

Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn+372 681 1888

ITALY

Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn+372 627 6160

LATVIA

Tõnismägi 10, 10119 Tallinn, +372 627 7850

LITHUANIA

Uus 15, 10111 Tallinn+372 631 4030

NETHERLAND

Rahukohtu 4, 10130 TallinnTel. +372 680 5500

NORWAY

Harju 6, 10130 Tallinn+372 627 1000

POLAND

Suur-Karja 1, 10146 Tallinn+372 627 8206

PORTUGAL

Kohtu 10, 10130 Tallinn +372 611 7468

RUSSIA

Pikk 19, 10123 Tallinn+372 646 4175

SWEDEN

Pikk 28, 10133 Tallinn+372 640 5600

TURKEY

Narva mnt. 30, 10152 Tallinn, +372 627 2880

UKRAINE

Lahe 6, 10150 Tallinn+372 601 5815

UNITED KINGDOM

Wismari 6, 10136 Tallinn+372 667 4700

UNITED STATES

OF AMERICA

Kentmanni 20, 10116 Tallinn+372 668 8100

EMBASSIES

20Tartu

TALLINN

www.visitestonia.com

useful information

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, TallinnTel. +372 644 2282

Mustamäe Medical CentreEhitajate tee 27, TallinnTel.+372 659 8318

Keskhaigla Medical CentreRavi 18, TallinnTel. 1900, +372 622 7070

■ Post OfficeTallinn Post OfficeNarva mnt 1, TallinnOpen M–F 8–20, Sa 9–17Tel. +372 617 7037

■ Tallinn Shopping Centres Hours of Operation

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102.Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45.Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4.Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87.Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238.Mustikas keskus, A. H.Tammsaare tee 116.Solaris, Estonia pst 9.Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4.

Foorum, Narva mnt 5.Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2.Stockmann, Liivalaia 53.Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8.Kochi Aidad, Lootsi 10.SadaMarket, Kai 5.

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10.Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7.

■ Currency ExchangeDebit and credit cards are wide-ly accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

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A.Alle A4Aasa C1Ääsi C5Adamsoni B1Ahtri A2Aia A2Aida A2Ao B1Asunduse B4Bensiini A4Eha B1Endla C1Estonia pst B2Faehlmanni B4Falgi tee B1Filtri tee C3Gildi C3Graniidi A1Hariduse B2Harju B2Hermanni B3Herne C2Herne C2Hobujaama B2Imanta C3Inseneri B2Invaliidi C2Jahu A2Jakobi C3Jakobsoni B3Jõe A3Juhkentali C3Kaarli pst B2Kadri tee A5Kai A2Kalamaja A1Kalaranna A2Kalaranna A2Kalju A1Kanuti A2Kappeli C4Karu A3Katusepapi C4Kauba D1Kauka B2Kauna C2Kaupmehe B2Keldrimäe C3Kentmanni B2Kevade B1Killustiku C5Kivimurru C4Kodu C2Kohtu B1Koidu B1Koidula B4Köleri B4Kollane B3Komeedi C1Kooli A2Kopli A1Kotka C1Kotzebue A1Kreutzwaldi B3Kristiina C1Kuhlbarsi B3Kunderi B3Kungla A1Kuninga B2Laagna tee B4Laagna tee B4Laboratoorimi A2Lahe A4Lai A2Laikmaa B2Lasnamäe B4Lasnamäe B4Lastekodu B3Laulupeo B3Lauteri B2Leigeri A1Lembitu B2Lennuki B2Liivalaia B3Liivamäe B3Logi A2Loode B1Lootsi A3Lossi plats B1Lubja C4Luha C1Luise B1Maakri B3Mäekalda B4Mäekalda B5Magasini C2Majaka C4Majaka põik C5Malmi A1Mardi C3Masina C4Mere pst A2Müürivahe B2Nafta A4Narva mnt A4Niguliste B2Niine A1

Nõmme tee C1Nunne A1Odra C3Õilme C2Olevimägi A2Oleviste A2Oru A5Paadi A3Pae C5Pagari A2Paldiski mnt B1Pallasti C4Pärna B3Pärnu mnt B2Peterburi tee C4Piiskopi B1Pikk jalg B2Pirita tee A5Planeedi C1Põhja puiestee A2Poska B4Pronksi B3Pühavaimu B2Puhke C2Rahukohtu B1Rannamäe tee A1Rannamäe tee A2Rataskaevu B2Raua B3Rävala pst B2Ravi C2Roheline Aas B4Rohu B1Roopa B1Roosikrantsi B2Rumbi A2Rüütli B2Sadama A2Sakala B2Salme A1Saturni C1Sauna B2Sikupilli C4Soo A1Spordi C1Süda C2Sügise B1Suur-Ameerika C1Suur-Karja B2Suur-Kloostri A2Suur-Laagri A1Suur-Sõjamäe C5Suurtüki A2Tare C2Tartu mnt B3Tatari B2Tehnika B1Telliskivi A1Terase B3Tina B3Tobiase B3Tolli A2Tõllu A1Tõnismägi C2Toom-Kooli B1Toom-Kuninga C1Toom-Rüütli B1Toompea B1Toompuiestee B1Tööstuse A1Tormi A4Tuha C5Türnpu B4Turu B3Tuukri A3Tuulemäe C5Tuvi C1Ülemiste C4Uue Maailma C1Uus A2Vabriku A1Väike-Ameerika C1Väike-Karja B2Vaikne C2Vaimu A2Valge B5Valgevase A1Vana-kala maja A1Vana-Lõuna C2Vana-Viru B2Vase B3Veerenni C2Veetorni C1Vene B2Vesivärava B4Videviku C1Villardi B1Vilmsi B3Virmalise C1Virmalise C1Viru B2Võistluse C3Volta A1Weizenbergi A4Wiedemanni B4Wismari B1

LIST OF STREETS

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RAPLAMAA JÄRVAMAA

PÄRNUMAASAAREMAA

HIIUMAA

VILJANDIMAA

JÕGEVAMAA

TARTUMAA

PÕLVAMAA

VÕRUMAA

VALGAMAA

LÄÄNE-VIRUMAA

IDA-VIRUMAA

HARJUMAA

LÄÄN

EMAA

MAAKONNAD

EESTI HALDUSJAOTUS

3020 50 km4010010

©REGIO 2008Riia 24, Tartu 51010tel +372 738 7300

©Regio 2008 KL-8-026

Riigipiir, kontrolljoon

Territoriaalmere piir

Tartu rahu piir

Maakonna piir Põhimaantee

Tugimaantee

Kõvakattega maantee

Kruuskattega maantee

Linn

Vallasisene linn

Alev

Alev-valdMaakonna keskusVILJANDI

PealinnTALLINN

Haldusjaotus on seisuga 01.04. 2007

KARKSI-NUIA

LIHULA

ABJA-PALUOJA

ANTSLA

PÜSSI

MUSTVEE

VÕHMA

SUURE-JAANI

MÕISAKÜLA

KALLASTE

Ust-Luga

OTEPÄÄ

KEILA

KIVIÕLI

TAPA

PÕLVA

PALDISKI

TÜRI JÕGEVA

ELVA

RAPLA

PÕLTSAMAA

SAUE

KUNDA

KÄRDLA

SINDI

NARVA-JÕESUU

LOKSA

KEHRA

TÕRVA

RÄPINA

KILINGI-NÕMME

TAMSALU

VILJANDI

SILLAMÄE

RAKVERE

VÕRU

MAARDU

KURESSAARE

VALGA

JÕHVI

HAAPSALU PAIDE

TARTU

NARVA

PÄRNU

KOHTLA-JÄRVETALLINN

Jüri

KuusaluHaljala

Kadrina

IisakuVäike-Maarja

Laiuse

Nõo

Võnnu

Värska

Misso

Tabivere

Lelle

Risti

Käina

OrissaareLeisi

Salme

AsteKärla

ParalepaTaebla

Palivere

Turba

Riisipere

Klooga

Keila-Joa

HarkuTabasalu

Saku

Kiisa

Kiili

LagediLoo

ViimsiHaabneeme

Kostivere

Raasiku

Aruküla

Prillimäe

Alu

Kuusiku

KeavaKehtna

Valtu

Käru

SärevereOisu

Väätsa

Juuru

Kaiu

Eidapere

Audru Sauga

Are

Paikuse

Võiste

Häädemeeste

TihemetsaHalliste

Õisu

KõpuRamsi

Viiratsi

Helme

Hummuli

TsirguliinaSõmerpalu

Õru Sangaste

Puka

Rannu

Rõngu

KurekülaTõravere

PuhjaUlila

Ilmatsalu

Tõrvandi

Kolga-JaaniOlustvere

Adavere

KamariPuurmani

Siimusti

Kuremaa

Aravete

KäraveteAmbla

Lehtse

Sääse

Kiltsi

Hulja

Lepna

Sõmeru

VinniPajusti

Roela

Laekvere

Tudu

Avinurme

Mäetaguse

Aseri

Sonda

ToilaVoka

Lohusuu

Torma

Sadala

AlatskiviKolkja

Varnja

Kõrveküla

Luunja

Roiu

AhjaVastse-Kuuste

Kambja

Mooste

Veriora

Kose

Varstu

Valjala

Virtsu

Hageri

Peetri

Võõpsu

Lähte

Palamuse

Kihelkonna

Vastseliina

Laura

Irboska

Seredka

Jamm

Spitsõno

Samolva

Pnevo

Pededze

Tori

Sinimäe

Assaku

Kose Ravila

Kose-Uuemõisa

Kanepi

Rakke

VäimelaParksepa

Tõstamaa

Kõrgessaare

Laagri

Ülenurme

Mehikoorma

Simuna

Viru-Jaagupi

Rõuge

Roosna-Alliku

Tudulinna

Vaida

Mustla

Võsu

Hagudi

Koeru

Vana-Antsla

KOHILA

JÄRVAKANDI

TOOTSI

LAVASSAARE

VÄNDRA

AEGVIIDU

PÄRNU-JAAGUPI

KOHTLA-NÕMME

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Libatse

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Linnamäe

Nõva Harju-Risti ÄäsmäeVasalemma

Valgu

Kiiu

Uhtna

Jäneda

Kuimetsa

KoigiVaimastvereTüri-Alliku

ImavereKabala

Vana-Võidu

Päri

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Kaagjärve

Dikli

Matixi

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Lasva

MammasteKrootuse

Melliste

Osula

Uulu

Vastemõisa

Sürgavere

Äksi Vara Koosa

Laeva

Tilsi

Himmaste

Kabli

Padise Alavere

Tsooru

Jõõpre

Selja

Haiba

Oru

Lehola

ValklaKolga

Tarbja

Papsaare

Linna

Esku

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Põlgaste

Pisisaare

ArduVajangu

Vao

Lehtmetsa

Albu

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Saarde

Kolka

Orgita

Kudjape

Karksi

Keeni

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Vana-Vigala

Väike-Kamari

Kurkula ps

Vaindloo

Pärispea ps

Põõsaspea n

Kõpu ps

Kassari s

Tagamõisa ps

Nootamaa

Sõrv

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Piirissaar

Käsmu psJuminda ps

Viimsi ps

Pakri ps

Hanko ps

Porkkala ps

Noarootsi ps

Tahkuna ps

Väike - Tütarsaar Suur - Tütarsaar

Prangli

NaissaarAegna

Pakri s-dOsmussaar

VORMSI

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M U H U

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Kihnu

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Vilsandi

PETSERI

GDOV

SLANTSÕ

IVANGORODJAANILINN

AINA I

SALACGRÎVA

STAICELE

LIMBALEMSALU

VOLMARI

RUHJAVÄIKE-SALATSI

ALOJA

MAZSALACA

VALMIERA

SMILTENE

VALKA

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ALÛKSNE

HOPA

OUDOVA

RÛJIENA

STRENÈI

HEINASTE

SALATSI

HANKO

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Hari kurk

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Voosi kurkSuur väi n

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M a t s a l u l a h t

S o e l a v ä i n

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L I I V I L A H T

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EESTI HALDUSJAOTUS

3020 50 km4010010

©Regio 2008 KL-8-026

DISTANCESMajor Estonian Towns

HAAPSALU175 IKLA347 288 KOIDULA

84 148 335 KUIVASTU 158 221 408 73 KURESSAARE

56 228 403 121 106 KÄRDLA312 349 267 357 431 368 NARVA108 67 253 81 155 161 291 PÄRNU199 235 222 245 318 256 167 178 RAKVERE

9 180 356 90 163 47 321 114 208 ROHUKÜLA99 193 285 144 218 155 211 128 99 108 TALLINN

249 209 100 255 328 305 178 174 123 258 186 TARTU204 131 173 177 250 257 235 96 149 210 159 78 VILJANDI300 227 62 274 347 353 248 192 194 306 253 71 124 VÕRU

2626

MAP OF ESTONIA

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Anne kanal

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