Summer concerts in Estonia

Special summer travel guide

Dining al fresco:terraces in Tallinn

ww

w.b

alti

cgui

de.e

eYo

ur

fre

e g

uid

e t

o E

sto

nia

You

r fr

ee

gu

ide

to

Est

on

ia

The best activities, sports, and excursionsThe best activities, sports, and excursions

JU

NE

20

13

whatwhat where whenwhen

ENGLISH EDITION

The best things to see and

do in Estonia

Outdoor Outdoor AdventuresAdventures

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E J U N E 2 0 1 3 3editorial

Summer in Tallinn

Th e r e i s a reason the s t r e e t s o f Tallinn are packed with touristsits summer! Winter has its own charm, but

summertime in Estonia is truly magical.Midsummer is one of the most important holi-

days in Estonia, perhaps even more important thanChristmas for some. Its celebrated on the evening of June 23. City-dwelling Estonians escape to their summer homes to celebrate with family and friends. Enormous bonfires are lit, saunas are had, and beer is drunk. One of the most interesting customs asso-ciated with Midsummer or Jaanipev in Estonia is swinging. Large platform swings made out of wood can be found close to bonfire sites in the countrysi-de. You stand up on the swing and push back and forth to gather more speed and height. The goal is to do a full 360 degree turn around the bar.

It's no surprise that beer drinking has been associated with Midsummer for centuries. In 1640, there is mention in church records that locals were

found to have consumed 20 barrels of beer on Midsummers Eve, and were handed fines for public intoxication. That's not to say you can't enjoy a few beers fireside, but be careful.

Midsummer's Eve also coincides with Victory Day, which marks the defeat of the German Landeswehr on June 23, 1919. This was the biggest and most significant victory for Estonia during the Estonian War of Independence (1918-1920). Victory Day celebrations start with a festive military parade. The President lights a torch and fires are then lit all over the country as a symbol of independence and free-dom.

For a traditional celebration of Midsummer, head to the Open Air Museum on June 23. Whatever you do, dont stay in the city. Most shops and restaurants are closed on June 24, and citizens have left for holi-days. And lucky for you our special summer travel guide will help you do just that. Enjoy travel outside of Tallinn, and experience Estonia as the locals do.Happy travels!

Kristina LuppEditor-in-chief

3 editorial 4-5 transport 6 june events 8 shopping 19 top 10 10-11 restaurants 12 nature 13-22 special summer travel guide 23 museum 24-25 nightlife 27-30 maps and information

night life

restaurants10-11

Nightclub TeaterRocksummerSummer concerts

24-25

Contents

Your Comments We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Phja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Dining in KalamajaTallinn's best patios

and terraces

ABOUT ESTONIAArea: 45,227 km2.Population: about 1,350,000.Capital: Tallinn, population about 400,000.Independence: 24 February, 1918, Re-independence: 20 August, 1991. Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C. Time zone: GMT +2 Language: Official language Estonian. Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants.Religion: Approximately 20 % of Estonians are non-religious, 30 % Lutheran, 28 % Orthodox and 3 % Catholic.Currency: Euro. Visa, MasterCard, Eurocard, Diners Club and American Express are widely accepted.Electricity: 220 V / 50 Hz, European (Type C) plug.

J U N E 2 0 1 3

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olmpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Thetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, lemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, MerekeskusLootsi keskus, Puumedi Group O RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O

Pick up your free copy at: 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Prnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Prnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Prnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rtli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Gteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Managing Director: Kirli LembinenEditor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp

kristina@balticguide.eeDesign: Kristi Mls

Photography: Andrei Chertkov Photo: EM Concert

Contact InformationPhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn,

tel +372 611 77 60e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee

Marketing Manager: Helen Kaurtel +372 58 502 477

Follo

w u

s on

7 reasons to visit Estonia's wilderness01 Regardless of its size, Estonias nature is varied. Distances are short and the landscape changes quickly between them. Interesting natural settings can be found in every county flat grasslands, hills, sandstone cliffs, and dense forests are around every turn.

02 Estonia is peaceful and quiet outside of its cities. Untouched landscapes like the beaches on the tiny islands of Kihnu, Vormsi, and Prangli are ideal places for a hike.

03 Estonia is home to many rare species of birds, like the Black Stork, the Pied Avocet, the Lesser Spotted Eagle, and different species of Chickadee. Matsalu and Haapsalu are a birdwatchers paradise, along with Tartus surrounding areas, and Srve on the island of Saaremaa. The astounding migration of hundreds of thousands of waterfowl can be witnessed in spring and in autumn.

04 The limestone precipices on the island of Saaremaa and northern Estonia offer spectacular sights. The large waterfalls on the northern coast are impressive as well.

05 Gorgeous sandstone caves can be found throughout the country. The most impressive can be found in southern Estonia in Piusa, where one of northern Europes largest bat colonies can be found.

06 A unique world of plants: 1500 plant species, including orchids that can be found mostly on the islands of Saaremaa and Hiiumaa. There are a total of 36 orchid species that grow in Estonia.

07 Hiking in Estonia is safe and easy. The Estonian State Forest Management Centre (RMK) looks after nature reserves and hiking trails. Everyone can use campfire sites, cam-ping areas and huts, free of charge.

KOPLI

PELGU-LINN

KALAMAJA

OLD TOWN

MERIMETSA

ROCCA AL MARE

VEERENNI

PORT

SIKUPILLI

LASNAME

PIRITA

KADRIORG

OLD TOWN

PORTA, B terminals

D terminal

AIRPORT

VIRU

BUS STATION

PELGULINN

KOPLI

KADRIORG

PELGU-RANNA

MERIMETSA

VEERENNI

TONDI

LEMISTE

KALAMAJA

SIKUPILLI

Non-residents and tourists can purchase a ticket for 1.60 from the driver. Exact change is always appreciated. And dont forget to validate your ticket. You can also purchase a smartcard. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-kiosks, and are transferable. Or, save yourself time and money by purchasing a Tallinn Card. The Tallinn Card allows you to use public transport for free, but remember to validate by touching your card to the orange reader.

Further information on routes and timetables:http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#plan/

TICKETS AND ROUTES

TALLINN CITY TOURTake a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages.Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

Red Line - City CentreGreen Line - PiritaBlue Line - Rocca al MareTour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets start at 13.www.citytour.ee

tram routes

1

2

3 4

4

1 3

2

RAILWAYSTATION

transport4 T H E B A L T I C G U I D E J U N E 2 0 1 3

Customs RegulationsVisitors from EU countries may carry unlimited amounts of tobacco products into Estonia.ALL TOBACCO PRODUCTS MUST DISPLAY HEALTH WARN-INGS. IN THEIR ABSENCE, THE FOLLOWING RULES APPLIES:

200 CIGARETTES OR 200G OF LOOSE TOBACCO

Cars or motorcycles entering Estonia may carry up to 10L of petrol in regulation containers.

Drugs may not be brought into Estonia without permission. Live animals and plants, as well as rare ani-mal and plant species and also require special permis-sion. Firearms and other weapons are prohibited.

Pirated materials are prohibited.Estonian Tax and Customs, information for the traveller: http://www.emta.ee/index.php?id=1089

Airport and Port TransfersGetting to the port:The distance between the Viru Shopping Centre and the port is about 1 km. Bus no. 2 will get you there, and pass by the airport as well. The Migu Bus Line also passes through the port. For more information and timetables visit: http://soiduplaan. tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ab. The name of the Viru Shopping Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa. Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60.

Getting to the AirportThe distance between the Viru Shopping Centre and the Tallinn airport is 4 km. The no. 2 bus goes to the airport and the schedule can be found at http://soidu-plaan.tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ab. The name of the Viru Shopping Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa and the airport stop is called Lennujaam. Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60

BY BUS:Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam)Lastekodu 46, Tallinnwww.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.eeFrom the bus station to the city: tram no.2, bus no. 17, no. 23Ecolines www.ecolines.eeHansabuss Business Line www.businessline.eeLux Express www.luxexpress.euTemptrans www.temptrans.ee

BY SEA:From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

TO/FROM HELSINKI Ecker Line - www.eckeroline.eeTallink - www.tallinksilja.comViking Line - www.vikingline.eeLinda Line Express - www.lindaline.ee

TO/FROM STOCKHOLMTallink - www.tallinksilja.com

TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURGSt. Peter Line - www.stpeterline.com

BY TRAIN:Train Station (Balti jaam)Toompuistee 37, TallinnFrom the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minute walk to the Old Townwww.edel.eewww.gorail.ee

BY AIR:Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam)Tartu mnt 101, TallinnFrom the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K. www.tallinn-airport.ee/engFAST CLASS By Copterline www.copterline.ee Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki City Centres, from the Port.

Transport

1 3

2 4

43

1 2

p p p

Getting to the Airport

Free Bus from the PortThe Viking Line offers a free shuttle service to and from the city. The name of the bus stop is Mere pui-estee, opposite the Viru Shopping Centre. The bus departs at 14.15, 14.30 and 14.45.The Rocca al Mare Prisma supermar-ket has a free bus that also passes through the port terminals everyday between 1017. Please consult the website for departure times: www.prismamarket.ee/prismabuss.php?lang=fin

Restaurant/PubFrsta stllet i Tallinn nr man kommer sjvgen och sista nr man beger sig till havs!

The rst place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!

Massor av hrliga smakupplevelser!

Taste one of our delicious dishes!ppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19.

Kket ppet frn kl/The kitchen open from 8.

Levande musik varje dag/Live music every day 12-15

Sadamarket Shopping Centrum1a vn/1st oor, 100m frn A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals.

Sadama 6/8, Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee,www.seitsemerd.ee

BEST VENUES IN TALLINN! WELCOME! FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 47

HEALTHYFRESHFAST

OPEN SUN-THU 11-23, FRI-SAT 11-24

Foorum Center, Hobujaama 10, TallinnNear the harbour. Ph. +372 6 829 010

Solaris Center, Estonia pst. 9, TallinnNear the National Opera Theatre. Ph. +372 6 285 999

& PIZZAfrom 4,90

PASTA

VISIT VAPIANO IN HELSINKI, MIKONKATU 15!

TALLINN HELSINKI STOCKHOLM LONDON WIEN AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG NEW YORK

29

transport 5T H E B A L T I C G U I D E J U N E 2 0 1 3

Tallinn Taxis

M@ILJHL8I

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E J U N E 2 0 1 36 june events Narva Days 2013Narva Days, in Estonias easternmost city of Narva includes a festive street parade, sports competi-tions, cultural events, exhi-bitions, markets, and all the entertainment you could possibly fit into a three-day festival.

7-9 Junewww.narva.ee

Midsummers Eve Midsummers Eve is perhaps the most anticipated holiday of the year. It is a beautiful summer evening filled with flaming bonfires, dancing and music, swinging and folk games. Experience the tradi-tional Estonian customs associated with this ancient holiday at the Estonian Open Air Museum.

23 June, 19:0000:00Farms open from 19:00 to 22:30 www.evm.ee

upcoming events Treff Festival Treff is an international street festival where buskers, actors, and other perfor-mance artists can showcase their talents. Enjoy a packed programme of puppet art, dance, theatre, music, lec-tures, and workshops. This festival is ideal for children.

6-8 June, Tallinnwww.nuku.ee

JUNE15.16.6. Rock Summer 25 www.rocksummer.ee6.12.6. Prnu PromFest International Opera Music Festival, Prnu www.promfest.ee17.23.6. Suure-Jaani Music Festival www.concert.ee23.6. Avinurme tnnilaat Midsummers Eve Fair, Avinurme www.avinurme.ee

25.6. Green Day, Tallinn Song Festival Grounds www.piletilevi.ee28.30.6. Hard Rock Laager Hard rock and metal music festival, Vana-Vigala www.hardrocklaager.ee28.6. Jose Carreras, Tallinn Song Festival Grounds www.piletilevi.ee

29.6. Elton John, Tallinn Song Festival Grounds www.piletilevi.ee

JULY1.21.7. Prnu International Documentary and Anthropology Film Festival www.chaplin.ee/filmfestival/ index.htm3.7.7. Juu Jb Future Music Festival, Muhu www.visitestonia.ee

3.6.7. llesummer, Tallinn Song Festival Grounds www.piletilevi.ee4.7.7. Medieval Days, Tallinn www.folkart.ee11.15.7. Vru Folk, Folklore Festival, Vru www.vorufolkloor.ee12.14.7. American Beauty Car Show, Haapsalu www.american.ee/carshow12.14.7. Tallinn Maritime Days www.tallinnamerepaevad.ee12.14.7. Kihnu Maritime Days12.14.7. Hanseatic Days, Tartu www.hansapaevad.ee15.16.7. Sru Jazz, Hiiumaa www.kaunismuusika.ee/soru-jazz18.21.7. Hiiu Folk, Hiiumaa www.hiiufolk.ee19.20.7. Rally Estonia 2013, Valgamaa www.rallyestonia.com19.21.7. Narva Bike 2013 Narva Castle International Bike Fest www.narvabike.com

AUGUST21.28.7. Saaremaa Opera Days, Kuressaare www.saaremaaopera.eu25.28.7. Viljandi primusmuusikafestival Folk Music Festival www.folk.ee/festival/2013/en/1.4.8. Jgevatreff Motorcycle Event www.jogevamc.ee1.4.8. Haanja Smoke Sauna Week, Vrumaa http://haanja.eu/sann/english/2.3.8. Augustibluus Estonian Blues Festival, Haapsalu www.augustibluus.ee2.3.8. Kuressaare merepevad2.8. Seto Kingdom Day, Luhamaa http://kuningriik.setomaa.ee3.8. Cafs Days, Krdla www.kohvikutepev.ee9.11.8. Viru Folk, Ksmu www.virufolk.ee10.18.8. Birgitta Festival, Pirita Konvent Ruins, Tallinn www.birgitta.ee16.17.8. Military History Festival, Valga www.visitestonia.ee23.25.8. White Lady Festival, Haapsalu www.valgedaam.kultuurimaja.ee24.8. Garlic and Fish Festival, Lbnitsa, Plvamaa 24.8. Garlic Festival, Jgeva

Upcoming Summer EventsAva lava, Tallinn! 2013TEXT: MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTO: ALBERT TRUUVRT

Familiarise yourself with the different regions of Estonia over three weekends this summer during the Ava Lava, Tallinn! fes-tival in Tallinns Town Hall Square.

These regions contain many interesting castles, fortresses, manor houses, spas, farms, out-door activities and different fes-tivals; each area has its own uni-que differences. The programme will include performances by folk ensembles, choirs, and dance groups. Regional handicrafts, and local foods will also be on sale. Its a great way to see a bit more of Estonia without having to leave the capital, and it might even inspire you to book another trip to Estonia to visit these regions.

29-30 June Southern Estonia (Jgevamaa, Viljandimaa, Plvamaa, Tartumaa, Vrumaa, Valgamaa)www.southestonia.ee

20-21 July Northern Estonia (Harjumaa, Raplamaa, Jrvamaa, Lne-Eesti, Ida-Virumaa)www.northestonia.ee3-4 August Western Estonia (Hiiumaa, Saaremaa, Lnemaa, Prnumaa)www.westestonia.eewww.tallinn.ee/avalava

TEXT: MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTO: TOOMAS VOLMER

Since 1982, Tallinns Old Town Days have been bringing everyt-hing from theatre to concerts to this citys medieval streets. The event kicks off on June 1st in Town Hall Square where the Estonian National Symphony Orchestra, led by Eri Klas will perform Car-mina Burana. This concert, as well as many of the other activities on the eight day programme are free.

Each day of the week will have its own theme. For example, June 3rd is Health Day, where dancing, Zumba, and other sports will take place on the cobblestone streets.

The festival closes on June 8th at the Skoone Stadium with the May Count Tournament, and the celebration of the beginning of summer.

Tallinn Old Town Days

1-8 JUNE1.6. Childrens Day2.6. Church Day3.6. Health Day4.6. Traditions Day5.6. Museum Day6.6. Theatre Day7.6. Music Day8.6. Medieval Daywww.vanalinnapaevad.ee

PHOTO: JAAK KADAK

PEREOPTIKA Aia 2, Tallinn, WW Passaaz, tel +372 56820045

STOCKOPTIKA Tartu mnt 18, Tallinn (Opposite Stockmann) tel+372 56820044

+/-Optika Tartu mnt 11D, Tallinn (In the Sampo courtyard) tel+372 56820043

SEE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EXCELLENT AND ORDINARY LENSES.

5"356./55"--*//rXXXDPOUNPEBFF5FMr0QFO.PO'SJ4BU

DRESS CLOTHES FOR ALL AGES AND SIZES ACROSS FROM STOCKMANN IN TALLINN

-20% -50% -70%

RAEKOJA PLATS 15TEL. +372 627 6245MONSUN 1023

WWW.TROIKA.EE Live music every night!

FROM RUSSIA...WITH LOVE

UP TO THE SKYBRASSERIE & RESTAURANT TELETORN

WWW.TELETORN.EEWWW.FACEBOOK.COM/RESTORAN/TELETORNWWW.FACEB ETORNCEBOOK.COM/RESTORAN/TELETO

RESTAURANT WITH A VIEW

The TV Tower is located 10 min. from the city centre and 4 min. from the Pirita Marina. Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn

How to get here: You can take buses 34A, 38, and 49 (stop "Teletorn"), or the City Tour bus. Our premises are handicap accessible.

Parking: The TV Tower parking lot has 5 places for tourist buses and 60 places for cars.

Reservations: +372 58150020. E-mail: restoran@teletorn.ee, www.teletorn.eeOpen daily 10-23. TV Tower summer terrace open outside.

Mere pst 6

Lootsi 3A

Narva mnt 7

Lootsi 8

Narva mntNarv

a mntM

ere ps

t

Mere pst

Ahtri

Ahtri

Hob

ujaama

Aia

Viru

Vana-Viru

Inseneri

Kanuti

Sadama

Kai

Laeva

Kuunari

Paadi

us

ei

Je

Tuukri

Karu

Lootsi

Norde Centrum

Terminal DTerminal C

Reval Express

Tallink Spa & Conference Hotel

ViruKeskus

KalevSpa

Kuulsaal

Terminal B

Terminal A

stt

Attention! The use of alcoholic beverages can damage your health.

Alcoholic beverages in the city center and at the portMere pst 6, Tallinn

Mon-Sun 10:00-20:00 / Ph 683 7745Narva mnt 7, Tallinn

Mon-Sun 10:00-20:00 / Ph 683 7740

Lootsi 3A, TallinnMon-Sun 10:00-20:00 / Ph 660 5771

Lootsi 8, TallinnMon-Sun 10:00-20:00 / Ph 660 5986

www.alcostore.ee

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E J U N E 2 0 1 38 shopping

Shopping Centres & Department Stores in Tallinn:Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Prisma, Free bus from the port.Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Prisma, Free bus from the port.Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Prisma, Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimgi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja).Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Prisma, Trolleys 1, 2 and 3.Jrve Keskus, Prnu mnt 238. Selver, Buses 5, 18, 32 ,36, 57.lemiste, Suur-Sjame 4. Rimi, Buses 2, 7, 15, 65.Solaris, Estonia pst 9.Viru Keskus, Viru Vljak 4.

Foorum Narva mnt 5.Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2.Stockmann, Liivalaia 53.

Near the port:Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8.Kochi Aidad, Lootsi 10.SadaMarket, Kai 5.Merekeskus, Mere pst 10.Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. Rimi

Most large shopping centres are open daily 10-21 and the supermarkets 8-23.

Shopping Spotlight: ROCCA AL MAREOne of the nicest, and largest shopping centres in Tallinn has to be Rocca al Mare.

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

This massive centre was comp-leted in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops. The shops are mainly clothing and beauty rela-ted, but you can find sports appa-rel, childrens toys, home wares, health stores and chemists, as well as a large Prisma supermar-ket where you can buy just about anything!

Ex-pats living in Tallinn will be pleased to know that the Marks & Spencer with the best grocery department can be found at Rocca al Mare. This is where you can buy those hard-to-find dried herbs and spices like celery salt. The Prisma supermarket is massive. It has a large wine and spirits section, and sells home wares, clothing, eve-rything for the kitchen, and even

items for the sauna. And of cour-se, food too.

The second floor of this two-floor shopping complex has a Stockmann outlet. The main loca-tion of the Stockmann department store is located in Tallinns city centre. Come to the outlet for bar-gains on last years styles.

Children will be entertained at Juku Mngumaa. This play-world has its own childrens caf and playground, guaranteed to keep your children entertained for hours. Babysitting services are also available.

Hungry? Rocca al Mare has its share of great dining options, like

LocationRocca al Mare,Paldiski mnt 102, Tallinnwww.roccaalmare.eeA free bus leaves the Port daily, approximately every half hour.

Haab

ersti

Krneri

102A

102D

106

96.

Paldiski mn

t

Misa

Lille

vlj

a

Misapllu

104B

5145

411

16

145

135

98.

9.

ekrtsi

42

5/1

6.

3

102

100

4B

Tallinna Loomaaed

abahumuuseumi teeRocca al Mare

Mack Bar-B-Que. Here you can find that rack of ribs, or giant bur-ger you have been craving. Mack Bar-B-Que also has another loca-tion in Tallinns city centre, loca-ted near the bus station. Feeling like something a bit lighter, try Silk Sushi, also located on the second floor.

If youre headed out that way, why not stop in at the Estonian Open Air Museum, located just down the road. (Eesti Vabahu-muuseum, Vabahumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn, www.evm.ee)

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E J U N E 2 0 1 3 9top 10

TEXT: ROBERT BROOKES, PHOTOS: JAREK JEPERA,

TOOMAS TUUL, ROBERT BROOKES

Hiiumaa Bike Trip

With the return of summer, its time to get outdoors to explore and experience more of what this country has to offer. In contrast to travelling around by car or bus, cycling offers the rider the opportunity to take in the sights at a leisurely pace. As Estonia is a relatively flat country, this mode of transport is suitable for riders of all ages and fitness levels. Whilst there is the possibility to explore Tallinn on two wheels, set your sights beyond the capital and discover the delights of Estonias second largest island, Hiiumaa, located off the west coast. It is possible to circumnavigate the island comfortably in 3-4 days with plenty of time to visit various beaches, forests, and the iconic lighthouses. There are also several well-maintained campsites. For more information about what to see and do on Hiiumaa visit www.hiiumaa.ee

Scuba diving

An interesting way to explore parts of this country not seen by most is to take the plunge and explore some of Estonias unique underwater wonders. There are numerous dive sites catering to divers of all skill levels and experien-ce. These range from exploring the countless wreck sites located in Estoni-an waters to clear-water lakes located in various parts of the country. Just 50km from Tallinn is one such lake at Rummu, which is an abandoned limestone quar-ry containing submerged machinery and buildings. The possibility also exists in Estonia to get up close and personal with playful seals. www.waterworld.ee

Sailing

If you would prefer to be on the water rather than under it, sailing is a wonder-ful way to experience this part of the world. Estonia is an ideal sailing destina-tion and is blessed with over 3,700 km of coastline, and more than 1,500 islands. The large number of yachts located at Pirita, just a few minutes from Tallinns city centre attests to this fact. The city also had the distinction of hos-ting the 1980 Olympics sailing regatta. River and lake sailing is also a possibility, with more information at www.visites-tonia.com.For something a little different:Ksmu Viking ShipTel: (+372) 529 7135e-mail: muuseum@kasmu.eeBuilt in 2010, this ship lets you try your hand at rowing and sailing, Viking style.Puulaevaselts Vikanwww.vikan.eeWith Vikans wooden boats you can experience what it was like to sail in olden times. Children welcome.

Kayaking in Tallinn

A unique way to view Tallinn, including Toompea Castle, the majestic towers and medieval churches of the Old Town, is to view it from the sea. A 3-4 hour sea kayaking outing under experi-enced guidance is available for even those adventurous novices with no pre-vious experience. The trip starts and finishes a short walk from the city cent-re and also promises a visit to the impressive Seaplane Harbour, Paljassaa-re beach and views of the port area and of old Soviet buildings. www.360.ee/eng

Beaches

With the onset of summer, locals and visitors alike are flocking to the various beaches around the country. The sum-mer capital of Prnu is a popular desti-nation due to its good climate, white sandy beaches and social, recreational, and cultural surroundings. In and around Tallinn, there is the main beach at Pirita and Stroomi Beach, located just west of the city centre. All beaches offer safe swimming and the promise of childrens playgrounds, on-beach activi-ties such as volleyball, and refreshment outlets.www.visitestonia.comwww.visitparnu.com

Golf

Golf is an enjoyable way to spend a few hours alone or with friends in peaceful and beautiful surroundings. Estonia has a number of high quality international standard courses, where equipment can be hired and training can be sought. The Niitvlja Golf Centre is only a half hour drive from Tallinn, the Esto-nian Golf and Country Club is also near the capital, while courses are available on Saaremaa Island and Otep as well. www.golf.ee; www.visitestonia.ee.

Horseback riding farm on Muhu

For something different, why not expe-rience some adventure of the four-leg-ged variety. The Tihuse horse-riding & tourism farm in the village of Hellamaa on the small island of Muhu in the west of Estonia offers guests a wide range of equestrian activities for all ages and levels of experience. There are 10 riding trails, plus a historical trail where there is an opportunity to learn more about the areas old customs and traditions. Accommodation, saunas, and massage are also offered.www.tihuse.ee

Paintball

Paintball is an exciting and adrenaline-filled sport that can be played in various locations around Estonia, with a few located close to Tallinn. Grab a few fri-ends or colleagues, don some camouflage and protective equipment and spend a couple of hours painting your opponents. Paintballi Takso in Tal-linn can organise events for you.www.paintballitakso.ee/eng/

Adventure Parks

There are several adventure parks loca-ted around Estonia. Nmme Adventure Park in Tallinn offers treetop activities including climbing in trees, zip lines and net jumping, which are guaranteed to challenge your fear of height. Similar venues in Otep, Valgeranna and Kubi-ja in southern Estonia offer these and other adventure-type activities. Search adventure parks at www.visitestonia.com for more information.

Windsurfing & Kite Surfing

These two sports are increasing in popularity in this country and the regu-lar sea breezes, vast coastline and countless lakes offer the would-be sur-fer endless venues and opportunities. Equipment can be hired from the lake-side or coastal resorts, harbour and surf clubs. Courses can also be arranged for beginners eager to experience this energy-charged sport. www.surfa.ee/en/

www.visitestonia.com/en/things-to-see-do/active-holiday/watersports/windsurfing

OUTDOOR SUMMER ACTIVITIESOUTDOOR SUMMER ACTIVITIESP 10P 10

10

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E J U N E 2 0 1 310 restaurants 50 Best RestaurantsThe votes are in! Estonias 50 best restaurants have been chosen for 2013. While the rankings arent determined until autumn, for now you can decide for yourself. Look for the sticker on restaurants doors. The chosen restaurants can be found throughout Estonia and range from casual to fine dining establishments. For a complete lis-ting visit: www.eestimaitsed.com

New Restaurant in Pirita The newly opened River Restoran boasts a fresh and seasonal menu that is sure to please. Located inside the Regatti Maja complex in Pirita, you can enjoy a view over the harbour from inside, or sit right by the water on their beautiful dock-side patio, soon to open at the beginning of June. Dishes are elegantly presently and incorporate continental cuisine with a bit of Estonian flair.

Merivlja tee 1, Tallinnwww.riveris.ee

SUMMER PATIO GUIDETEXT: KRISTINA LUPP PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

The Baltic Guide has compiled a list of Tallinns great patios and ter-races that take in the best view or are a little off the beaten track, but most importantly, arent found on the Town Hall Square. Some you might not know about, and some, if dont know about them yet, what are you waiting for, theres a drink and a good meal waiting for you at the end.

FOR SOMETHING A BIT FANCY:Hotel Telegraaf: This summer terrace is perhaps one of the most tranquil in the Old Town. Its loca-ted less than a minute's walk from the Town Hall Square along Aptee-gi, in a secluded courtyard. Enjoy excellent food, excellent service, and relaxing live music. Vene 9. Old Town H2.

FOR SOMETHING A LITTLE DIFFERENT:Luscher & Matiesen: This is an old wine company originally foun-ded in 1910. In the summer they open a terrace almost overlooking Tallinn in the upper part of the Old Town. They serve a French white and a Spanish Red under their label, as well as small snack

menu. L & M have recently added a dry sparkling and a ros to their list. Follow their updates on Face-book to find out about upcoming live music events. Cash only. Kohtu 12. Tallinn Map Code A2.

Leib Resto & Aed: Good food, good wine, secluded lush green courtyardwhat more could you ask for. Leib Resto ja Aed is the dream of sommelier Kristjan Pes-ke and chef Janno Lepik, two fri-ends turned restaurateurs. Their love for good food and good wine can be seen in the restaurants changing menu, and the elegant, yet unpretentious wine list. Loca-ted in the Old Scottish Club in Tallinns Old Town, their secluded courtyard is perhaps one of the most beautiful places to enjoy a meal outside in Tallinn. The menu

at Leib changes seasonally. In sum-mer, the kitchen moves outside to an open grill. Bookings are a must. Uus 31. Old Town F3.

Chakra: If you are craving some spice visit Chakra for some won-derful Indian food. The courty-ard patio is in the back of the res-taurant and is situated off a quiet Old Town street, making this a great place to relax with friends. Bremeni kik 1. Old Town G3.

Pierre Chocolaterie: While you may not fancy a hot chocolate in June, this quirky little caf off of Vene is a lovely place to come for coffee and a pastry in the mor-ning. Enjoy house-made truffles and other sweet treats in this quiet and cosy courtyard patio.Vene 6, Tallinn Old Town

FOR SOMETHING WITH A VIEW:Lounge 24: On the roof of the Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, is

the highest open-air patio you are going to find in Tallinn. Enjoy good food, great cocktails, and an even better view. The 360-degree view lets you look over Tallinns Old Town, the city centre, and out over the water. Ravala Puiestee 3. Tallinn B3.

Kohvik Komeet: The cakes at this caf are divine, as are the cocktails. The quirky round booths are the per-fect place to enjoy a warm summer evening. While not quite as high up as Lounge 24, you still get a great view of the Old Town. Estonia Puiestee 9, Solaris Centre 4th floor. Tallinn B2.

At Liisus

ESTONIAN CUISINE IN TALLINN'S OLD TOWN SQUARE

Restaurant Liisu JuuresOpen everyday 10-23,

Raekoja plats 13, Old Town, Tallinn

tel +372 6 441 983

Lunch or dinner for four: receive a free bottle of

sparkling wine

June Offer

Welcome!

THE BEST STEAK YOUVE EVER HAD

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E J U N E 2 0 1 3 11restaurants SessoonWe just cant stop hearing enough great things about this recent addition to the Kalamaja neighbourhood. Daily lunch spe-cials (soup, main, dessert) going for 5.70 fill you up without emp-tying your wallet. Menu items are also fairly priced, and portions are generous.

Niine 11, TallinnFacebook: KohvikSesoon

Grillfest Good Food Festival In case you needed another reason to visit the summer capital of Estonia, Prnu, here you go: grilled meat. But thats not all, Grillfest is also a chance to taste local products by Estonian producers, watch cooking competi-tions, and take part in the evening programme.

7-8 June, 2013www.grillfest.ee

KALAMAJAA culinary guide to Tallinns most colourful neighbourhood.

Kalamaja (Fish house) is a his-toric suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. From the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinns main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fish-mongers. When the railroad con-nected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870 many factories opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the gro-wing working population.

Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafs began to open, and the area continues to grow as the waterfront continues to be restored. Apart from the uni-que architecture and bohemian culture, Kalamaja is home to some of Tallinns most interesting cafs and restaurants. And what better way to become acquainted with the city than to do as the locals do, eat.

Kolm SibulatIf you dont speak Estonian, youll understand the name of this res-taurant as soon as you walk in. Onions, and shapes that resemble onions are placed all over this two-room restaurant.

The menu at Kolm Sibulat (Three Onions) is short, but covers all of the bases. Vegetarians will certainly be pleased with some great dishes, like roasted beetroot with pearl couscous, spicy hummus and yoghurt a dish called Vegetarian Love.

The attraction of the place has to be the fresh house made nood-les. The duck confit, chicken broth, poached egg, pickled vege-tables and herb noodle bowl was a great balance of sweet and sour, and a filling dish on its own.Telliskivi 2, Tallinnwww.kolmsibulat.eu

KukekeThe two-level restaurant is located in an old railway depot. The inte-rior is simple, keeping with the industrial look of the building. Daily specials and desserts are written in chalk behind the bar.

What jumps out from the menu, is the list of juices and non-alcoholic cocktails. And you know that the dining scene in Tallinn is changing when you see lactose-free written beside the mango-strawberry smoothie. Try the iced tea with lemon and mint. An extensive list of classic cocktails is also available, and the modest wine list features mostly European wines.Telliskivi 57, Tallinn B1 www.kukeke.ee

PokaalThe Telliskivi creative complex continues to grow with new res-taurants and cafes opening along with little shops and other creati-ve endeavours. One of the newer additions is Pokaal, a wine bar serving snacks and appetisers, and wine, of course! DJs can be heard spinning on the weekends. A great place to spend an evening!Telliskivi 60a, Tallinn B1Facebook: PokaalVeinibaar

PudelAlso located in the Telliskivi complex, Pudel concentrates sole-ly on bringing us some of the finest drinks from around the world. With a beer list that puts

most bars to shame, every custo-mer should be able to find at least one beer that will appeal to their tastes. Indeed, Punk IPA on tap is a welcome addition. It's minima-list dcor of white walls and ben-ches may not make for the cosiest atmosphere but this hasn't put off Tallinn's great and good who can be seen there most nights of the week.Telliskivi 60A, Tallinn B1Facebook: PudelBaar

F-HooneF-hoone was one of the first res-taurants to open in Kalamaja. Located in the Telliskivi complex, this large restaurant built into an old factory often houses events and special evenings. In summer the courtyard is filled with tables, perfect for a nice sunny lunch out-side. The menu offers simple dishes in large portions. Both vegetarians and meat eaters will be pleased. Prices are reasonable, almost half to those you find in the Old Town.Telliskivi 60A, Tallinn B1Facebook: F-Hoone

BoheemBoheem Caf, like the name sug-gests is a caf, but also a great res-taurant. The menu offers soups, wraps, crepes, and salads. Portions certainly satisfy hunger without emptying your wallet. Their Caesar salad is one of the best in the city. And there were certainly no complaints about the crepes and soups either. In summer, tab-les are set up outside on the side-walk. A lovely place to spend the afternoon.Kopli 18, Tallinn A1www.boheem.ee

NEAR THE KALASADAM (FISH PORT)

Kohvik MoonOne of Tallinns hidden gems, though not so hidden anymore, as it it frequently booked in the eve-

nings. Great food, great prices, and a great service.Vrgu 3, Tallinn A2www.kohvikmoon.ee

Estonian Design HouseThis shop houses displays, promo-tes, and sells the works of Estonian artists and designers including Monika Jrg, Karin Kersa, Stella Soomlais and more. Food and design must go together because right next door is Caf Klaus, another modern restaurant/caf where you can enjoy good food, good music, good design, and most importantly, free WiFi. Kalasadama 8, Tallinn B2www.estoniandesignhouse.ee

Baltijaam MarketLocated behind the central train station.Open daily 8.00-16.00

If you walk to Kalamaja from the Old Town you will inevitably pass by the Baltijaam Market. Here you will find just about anything, from home grown veggies to World War II memorabilia.

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, MARK BENN, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E J U N E 2 0 1 312 nature

BEAR WATCHINGEstonia has a few dozen companies that offer bear watching excursions, a business that draws in hun-dreds of thousands of euros for local residents.

Estonias first bear watching company was NaTourEst. The business is located in Alutaguse in eastern Estonia. It is thought that about 700 bears populate the country, most of which live on private land in eas-tern Estonia.

Nature guide Triin Ivaldi has been invol-ved with bear watching tours for a few years now. We dont just watch bears. We teach visitors about how bears live, how to identify their footprints and droppings, and we also look at where they hibernate, she explains.

The best time for bear watching in Esto-nia is from May to June, where it is more likely than not to spot one.

Bear watching is safe, as is walking in the woods. Bears are hunted in Estonia, so they are generally afraid of humans, reassures Ivaldi.

Every year more and more people come to watch bears. These tourists include visi-tors and photographers from England, Ger-many, Holland, and France. And bears are not all you might see: be on the lookout for wild boar, goats, foxes, and sometimes even wolves.

Vormsi Silma

Krvemaa

Endla

Alam-Pedja

Nigula

Luitemaa

Kassari

Vilsandi

National ParkNature Reserve

Karula

Lahemaa

L a t v i a

Ru

ssia

Emaje-Suursoo

Haanja

MurakaPakri

TALLINN

TARTTO

NARVA

Ruhnu

Kihnu

Saaremaa

Prangli

Hiiumaa

Muhu

Naissaar

Abruka

SoomaaSoomaaKURESSAARE

PRNUTARTU

ESTONIA'S BEAUTIFUL NATURE DESTINATIONS

Srve

MatsaluMatsalu

360 kraadi Skating, snowshoeing, skiing, canoe, and kayak excursions. Reimann Retked Bear photography and watching. Bird and plant tours. Seikle Vabaks Snowshoeing, kick sledging, kayaking, bird and nature walks. Soomaa.com Canoe, kayak, snowshoeing, kick sledging, and skiing excursions. Mushroom and wild berry foraging. Primusmatkad Nature and cultural tours of Saaremaa City Bike Bicycle tours of Tallinn and surrounds.

Estonian Nature Tour Organisers

Beautiful MatsaluThe Baltic Guides editor, designer, and photographer visited

Matsalu in the spring and were not disappointed.

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV AND

MIKKO VIRTA

The spring came very slowly this year, but a this didn't scare the birds away. In April, the seaside was still frozen and an icy wind blew strongly. The Common Red-shank and Oystercatcher found food on the shore, the Greylag Goose ate in the field, the storks were calling, and Avocets were playing in the pond. A sure sign of spring was the sighting of the Black Redstart, and its song could be heard throughout the park.

Tarvo Valker, nature guide and bird watching enthusiast explains: bird watching in Matsalu Natio-nal Park has become so popu-lar that at weekends in May the observation towers are so full of people that there is hardly room to set up a telescope. Visitors come from Sweden and Finland, but there are also many from Hol-land and England.

Water birds are best observed early in the morning in Virtsu, where you will surely spot Velvet Scoters, Common Scoters, Divers, and Skuas. Haapsalu is also anot-her great bird watching spot, where you will find almost the same types of birds as in Matsalu.

The day finished with a visit to the Kasarije bridge, where in the spring the melted snow had caus-

MATSALU

TALLINN

ed the area to flood. Over us geese flew, and across from us a White-backed Woodpecker, one of the most common birds in Matsalu, was feeding.

In June, the best bird watching spots are in Pgari, Haeska, and Keemu. You can follow the migra-tion of the birds mentioned in this article from Psapea Cape and Virtsu. Restaurants and cafs can

be found in Lihula and Haapsalu, as well as accommodation.

Guides, boats, and canoes can be booked through Estonian Natu-re Tours: www naturetours.ee

Matsalu National Park is loca-ted about 1.5 hours from Tallinn by car. You can take a bus from Tallinn to either Haapsalu or Lihu-la, from where you can reach the park by bike.

Tundra and Whooper swans stop for a drink before continuing their journey to Scandinavia and Siberia.

Tarvo Valker, 30, has been interested in bird watching for 30 years.

Storks can be seen throughout the countryside in Estonia.

Welcome to the zoo!Paldiski mnt. 145, Tallinn

Tel. +372 6 943 300, zoo@tallinnzoo.ee, www.tallinnzoo.ee

Open daily 9-21

Tallinn ZooTallinn Zoo

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS SVEN ZACEK

Summer in EstoniaSummer in EstoniaThe best travel tips and events for 2013

14-15 Western Estonia

17 The Islands

18 Northern Estonia

19 Southern Estonia

21 Tartu

14 Western Estonia

TOP 5

01 PRNUS SANDY BEACHESEstonias most popular beach is filled with thousands of sunbathers on a hot day.

05 MUSEUMSWhen in Haapsalu be sure to visit the Estonian Swedish Museum and Railway Museum; and in Prnu, wander through the History Museum and the Museum of New Art.

02 KIHNU ISLANDKihnu makes an excellent day trip from the mainland. Points of interest on the island include a lighthouse, museum, and the locals. Kihnu has its own dialect and culture and is a UNESCO world heritage site.

03 HAAPSALU EPISCOPAL CASTLE A majestic castle rises from the centre of this small town. On the night of the full moon in August, the ghost of the White Lady can be seen from the window Baptistry.

04 MATSALU NATIONAL PARKOne of Estonias most beautiful protected national parks is worth a visit in summer. The wetlands are best visited with a canoe or boat.

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E J U N E 2 0 1 315

Western Estonias spa townsPrnu and Haapsalu connect old

spa traditions with the sea.

TEXT AND PHOTOS MIKKO VIRTA, JAREK JEPERA, EAS

Its no coincidence that Prnu has become Estonias favourite summer destination. Spas were already in operation in the town in the 17th century. There is a long sandy beach and the shallow waters make it an ideal swimming spot for children. The warm sea waters keep vacationers coming back year after year. Prnu is also filled with tall shady trees, lush green parks, and elegant 1930s functionalist architecture.

Prnus beaches are filled from morning to night on hot days, with thousands of people soaking up the suns rays. For those that prefer a quieter beach, Audru Valgerand or Hdemeeste Beach are good options.

Haapsalu is like something straight out of a fairy-tale: old wooden houses built on

How to get there:Buses to Prnu from Tallinn depart almost hourly. To drive, takes about two hours. The train journey from Tallinn to Prnu takes about three hours. The car journey from Tallinn to Haapsalu takes under two hours. Buses depart for Haapsalu frequently.

narrow streets, overlooking a sparkling sea. Be sure to visit the majestic Episcopal Castle in the centre of town.

The beloved Ilon Wikland childrens book series illustrator, Astrid Lindgren lived in Haapsalu as a child, where she no doubt found inspiration for her work. Ilons Wonderland is found in an old green woo-den house where you can meet all the cha-racters and wander through the interactive exhibits.

Haapsalu is the ideal quiet family desti-nation with many playgrounds.

Distances: TallinnPrnu 135 km TallinnHaapsalu 100 km

Largest cities: Prnu: 43,000 inhabitants Haapsalu: 11,000 inhabitants Lihula: 2,500 inhabitants

Konse Motel & Caravan Park

Suur-Je 44a, Prnu. Tel +372 53 435 092, Fax +372 44 55 070, e-mail:info@konse.ee

www.konse.ee

Located in Prnu's city centre, on the banks of the Prnu River

KK MM C kt"DDPNNPEBUJPOGPSJOUXPUISFFPSGPVSQFSTPOSPPNTt'BNJMZSPPNTXJUILJUDIFOFUUFt'FODFEQBSLJOHMPUtDBSBWBOTQBDFTXJUIQPXFSTVQQMZTFQBSBUFTIPXFSTBOE8$t4BVOBXJUISFQMBDFt#JDZDMFSFOUBM

The Baltic Guide is now on FACEBOOK!

"Like" us and...

get the latest Estonian tourist information

be the first to know about upcoming events

let us know what you think, leave your comments and suggestions

TALLINN

HAAPSALU

KIHNU

LIHULA

PRNU

2VVSP/HHWZHS\;LS

June, July, August 10.00-18.00May and September 10.00-16.00

The Museum of the Coastal SwedesSadama 31, Haapsalu

Open T-Sa 10-18www.aiboland.eeph. +372 47 37 165

Jazzkaar: top musicians in Tallinn

Shopping in Tallinn

TOP 10 active vacation ideas

ww

w.b

alti

cgui

de.e

eYo

ur

fre

e g

uid

e t

o E

sto

nia

Tallinns top restaurants tasted and rated

AP

RIL

20

13

what where when

ENGLISH EDITION

The best things to see and

do in Estonia

Restaurant issue

Subscribe toThe Baltic Guide!Get to know Estonia. Subscribe to

The Baltic Guide for 1 year (12 issues)

special price

To Subscribe: www.balticguide.ee

rateddrrateddd

29EUR

12issues

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E J U N E 2 0 1 3 17Western Estonia's Islands

TOP 501 FOLK CULTUREKihnu Islands culture is a UNESCO world heri-tage site. Elderly ladies driving motorcycles with sidecars, while wearing traditional folk clothing is a regular sight on Kihnu.

05 KURESSAARE CELEBRATES 450 YEARSThe main attraction of Saaremaas capital is the Episcopal Castle. This medieval castle with a moat houses the stage of the summer opera festival. The castle is in excellent condition, and the inside houses a museum that is well worth a visit. The city of Kuressaare celebrates its 450th anniversary this year.

02 NATUREEstonias islands are home to many interesting bird, plant, and animal species. You will find wild boar and deer, majestic eagles, and different types of orchids. Bird watching can be done on every island, all year round, but their migration period is the most spectacular.

03 LIGHTHOUSESHiiumaas main attraction is the Kpu lighthouse, built at the beginning of the 16th century. This is one of the worlds oldest working lighthouses. Kihnu, as well as some of the other islands have lighthouses that can be visited by tourists.

04 THATCHED ROOFS AND WINDMILLSThatched roof houses can be seen on Estonian islands. Koguva, on the island of Muhu is the best place to see these traditio-nal farmhouses. This village has many that-ched roof buildings, including a museum. The windmills in Angla village on Saaremaa, is the best place to see these traditional structures, as there are not many left in other places.

Tranquility, nature, and an old world atmosphere

Estonias islands offer tourists everything they need for a relaxing break.

How to get there: A ferry connects Saaremaa and Muhu (Virtsu Port) from Kuivastu. (Approximate journey time 30 minutes). Muhu is connected to Saaremaa by a bridge. The distance between Kuivastu and Kuressaare is 75 km. Ferries to Hiiumaa (Heltermaa Port) leave from the Rohukla Port. (Approximate journey time 90 minutes). A regular ferry runs between Hiiumaa and Saaremaa from the towns of Triigi and Sru, res-pectively. (Approximate journey time 75 minutes). Ferry schedules, and ticket sales can be found at: www.tuulelaevad.ee. Vormsi is accessible by a ferry that runs bet-ween the ports of Rohukla and Sviby. The ferry from Prnu to Kihnu takes about 2.5 hours, where as the journey from Munalaiu to Kihnu is about an hour. Ferries to Ruhnu leave from Munalaiu and Roomassaare port on Saaremaa.

Distances: TallinnVirtsu 135 km TallinnRohukla 110 km TallinnMunalaiu 165 km

Western Estonias largest islands: Saaremaa: Approximate area 2 670 km2, Approximately 40,000 inhabitants. Hiiumaa: Approximate area 1 000 km2, Approximately 10,000 inhabitants. Muhu: Approximate area 200 km2, Under 2,000 inhabitants. Vormsi: Approximate area 93 km2, 400 inhabitants. Kihnu: Approximate area 17 km2, 500 inhabitants. Ruhnu: Approximate area 11 km2, Under 100 inhabitants.

TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS JAREK JEPERA, GRAHAM MITCHELL,

TOOMAS TUUL, WWW.VISITSAAREMAA.EE

Anyone looking for a bustling city break should steer clear of Estonias islands. The fast-paced modern world has not reached the islands, yet. On the smaller islands, and Hiiumaa, there is a feeling of having gone back 100 years in time. And the lar-gest island, Saaremaa, is quiet and peaceful compared to Tallinn.

There is so much to see on Estonias islands, especially if you take a few extra days to see them all. Unique nature and pre-served folk culture is the specialty of the islands, but dont worry, modern amenities can be found as well.

Ruhnu

TALLINN

KRDLA

Kihnu

KURESSAARI

Saaremaa

Hiiumaa

Muhu

Vormsi

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E J U N E 2 0 1 318 Northern Estonia

TOP 5

01 THREE BODIES OF WATERNorth-eastern Estonia is bordered by three bodies of water: the country's largest lake, Peipsi Lake; Narva River, and the Gulf of Finland. The sands of the shores of Narva-Jesuu and Peipsi Lake are the best in Estonia.

05 RAKVERELne-Virumaas most interesting cultural city has grown over the last few years to make it a truly fascinating tourist destination. A medie-val castle is among the noteworthy sites.

02 LIMESTONE BANKSLimestone banks or escarpments run along the northern coast of Estonia. The closest one to Tallinn is in Trisalu. The highest are in Ida-Virumaa in the area of Ontika.

03 LAHEMAA NATIONAL PARK AND MANOR HOUSES Since the Soviet period this national park has been a favourite destination for families. There are three manor house hotels nearby, Vihula Manor being the one that has grown in popularity over the last few years.

04 VIRU FOLK AND KAUNID KONTSERDID Summer music festivals and concerts begin in the small town of Ksmu at the beginning of the summer, and end in August with the Viru Folk Festival.

Northern EstoniaRich in culture, natural beauty, and manor houses,

northern Estonia offer visitors a little bit of everything.

TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO PHOTOS TOOMAS TUUL, JAREK JEPERA, JAAK

NILSON, VIRU FOLK, EAS

North-eastern Estonia is mainly Russian speaking, and is where most of Estonias energy comes from.

Tourism has developed quickly over the last few years, and there is so much to see and do east of Tallinn, from the manor house hotel in Lahemaa to the summer des-tination town of Narva-Jesuu.

Travelling through the north-eastern part of Estonia, its difficult not to notice the differences in culture, language, archi-tecture, and nature. The town of Sillame was closed during the Soviet period, but today it shows the visitor excellent examp-

How to get there:Trains depart from Tallinn to Rakvere, twice daily, and once daily to Jhvi and Narva. Travel time bet-ween Tallinn and Narva is about three and a half hours. The train line splits in the town of Tapa and heads towards Tartu. Heading west from Tallinn, a train connects to Paldiski nine times daily. Bus service is available to all destinations mentioned above.

les of Stalinist architecture. Nearby is Sinime, which has been fought over, over the years.

When driving east of Tallinn take the coastal road, which will offer beautiful views over the sea.

TALLINN

RAKVERE

KOHTLA-JRVENARVA

JHVi

MUSTVEE

PALDISKI

Distances: TallinnRakvere 99 km TallinnJhvi 165 km TallinnNarva 211 km TallinnMustvee 173 km NarvaMustvee 119 km TallinnPaldiski 49 km

Largest cities: Narva: 65,500 inhabitants Kohtla-Jrve: 37,200 inhabitants Sillame: 16,000 inhabitants Rakvere: 16,600 inhabitants

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E J U N E 2 0 1 3 19Southern Estonia

TOP 501 PHA MRISTUS!Is the theme of this years Viljandi XXI Folk Festival (25-28 July), meaning Holy com-motion in English. It introduces different celebration traditions from Estonia, as well as elsewhere in the world. People of all ages will flock to towards Viljandi to enjoy the music and the festive spirit.

05 SAND DUNESSand dunes are dug out from the Ahja River that runs through Taevaskoda near Plva, but the Hrma walls made by the Piusa River near Mereme are even taller.

02 THE SETO KINGDOMOn the third day of August, you are invited to the XX Seto Kingdom in Luhamaa. During the day the best Seto craftsmen from different trades will be chosen and the next sootska or king will be chosen for the upcoming year.

03 PHA V Or the towns of southern Estonia. Valgas neighbour is Valka in Latvia, residents of Vru speak their own language, and Viljandis history dates back to the 11th century. The centre of the Seto community can be found in Vrska.

04 SOOMAASoomaa National Park offers hikers and pad-dlers many challenging routes.Culture enthusiasts can head towards Hpassaar for a sunrise concert on Midsummers Day.

Stunning Landscapesand ancient traditions make southern Estonia truly unique

Distances:

TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS TOOMAS TUUL, URMAS VOLMER, EAS

The area that now makes up Southern Estonia was once part of Latvia. The Rus-sian Petseri County, Vrumaa, and the Seto community in Plvamaa, are also points of interest. A distinct dialect can be heard in Vrumaa. For example the word "keel," meaning language in Estonia, is pronoun-ced "kiil" in the Vru dialect. It is particu-larly noticeable in the written language.

The inhabitants of Mulgimaa, the area outside of Viljandi, are known as Mulks. The Estonian president, Toomas Hendrik

How to get there:Take the train from Tallinn to Valga, and then from there, to Viljandi. Trains leave twice daily. A bus service to Viljandi runs almost hourly. Buses leave for Vru and Valga seven times daily.

TALLINN

VILJANDI

VALGAVRU

PLVA

Tallinn Viljandi 159 km Tallinn Vru 253 km Tallinn Valga 267 km Viljandi Valga 88 km Viljandi Vru 124 km Tallinn Plva 231 km Vru Plva 25 km

Largest cities: Viljandi 19,900 inhabitants Vru 14,300 inhabitants Valga 13,600 inhabitants Plva 6,500 inhabitants

Ilves is from this area. This region has some of the best farmlands in the country.

It is worth becoming acquainted with southern Estonias history, and the surroun-ding landscapes are beautiful. Tall spruce trees, large oaks, deep lakes and rolling hills make up the landscape. During the summer be sure to visit one of the many festivals taking place in the area.

Authentic Italian food prepared by our Italian chefs.

Restaurant and Pizzeria

Kompanii 10, Tartu Tel. +372 7407 545 www.ladolcevita.ee

Italian

Open M-Th 11.30-23.00 F,Sa11.30-24.00, Su 12.00-23.00

- Our pizzas are cooked in a wood fire oven.- Delicious pasta that melts in your mouth.- Located in the heart of Tartu.- A cosy summer terrace.- WiFi

As the weather warms up, different events can be seen on the streets of Tartu. The programme offers something for everyone - for babies and the elderly, sports enthusiasts and artists.

JUNE2.6. Tartu Cycling Rally (Tartu Rattaralli)The Tartu Cycling Rally is the most popular road cycling event in neighbouring countries. In addition to professional cyclists, the 135 km and 60 km distances attract thousands of amateur sportsmen. The race starts and ends in the Tartu city centre and mostly takes place on winding South Estonian roads. Shorter distances are available for youngsters and children. www.tartumaraton.ee

8.6. Blues Festival (Bluusifestival EMAJE BLUUS 2013)This festival is a collaboration between Tartu Blues Club and the Trehv Club. The main concerts of the festival will take place in the two rooms of the Trehv, Narva mnt 25a. The festival program has close to 20 concerts performed by Estonian and international artists. www.emajoebluus.com

6.9.6. Estonian Composers Festival (Eesti Heliloojate Festival)The Estonian Composers Festival brings a first-rate programme of contemporary Estonian music to listeners, and includes the premieres of around a dozen new works by Estonias younger composers. In addition to orchestral concerts and master classes, there will also be interdisciplinary street and club programmes. The heart of the festival is Tartus most dignified concert site, St Johns Church. www.composer.ee

JULY19.721.7. Tartu Hanseatic Days (Lhnavad Tartu Hansapevad)Hanseatic Days revive the idea of Tartu as an ancient trading town on the border of East and West. The festival heart is the big handicraft and farm product market in the city centre squares and park areas. Old techniques and customs are intro-duced; concerts, dance parties and exhibitions take place. www.hansapaevad.ee

18.23.7. Festival Glasperlenspiel 2013 (Festival Klaasprlimng )The festival name has been inspired by the events of Hermann Hesse's novel of the same title. This hints that Glasperlenspiel showcases musicians interpreting musical works from an unusual angle. The reputable festival focuses on original instruments, unusual collectives and connections with other arts and philosophy. www.klaasparlimang.com

AUGUST1.4.8 9th Wind Band Festival(9. rahvusvaheline puhkpillifestival Mrtsub pill)Mrtsub pill is a cheerful international summer event filling Tartus city centre with diverse wind music. At the largest orchestral music festival in Estonia one can listen to childrens orchestras, dance to big band music and enjoy a grandiose concert by joint orchestras. www.potartu.ee

5.10.8 Love Film Festival (Armastusfilmide festival tARTuFF)For one week tARTuFF will use cinematic language to speak about cultural tolerance and love in all of its forms. On tender August nights, this unique and popular open-air cinema will gather thousands of film fans in Town Hall Square. A colourful selection of art-house cinema, an insightful documentary programme with lectures, conversation tables and concerts are free to everyone. www.tartuff.ee

25.8. 7th In-Line Skating Marathon (Tartu Rulluisumaraton)The SEB Tartu In-Line Skating Marathon is the largest in-Line skating event in Scandina-via and the Baltics. The race starts in Jgeva and finishes in Tartu. Distances are 48 and 19 km, presenting good challenges for skaters of all abilities. www.tartumaraton.ee

SEPTEMBER 2.-8.9. Estonian Theatre Festival DRAAMA (Teatri festival DRAAMA) The theatre festival "Drama is a meeting place for those who are interested in Estonian theatre and how it addresses contemporary times and society. In addition, side programmes and festival buzz is created by club nights and concerts.

15.9 SEB Tartu 16th Mountain Biking Marathon (Rattamaraton) The SEB Tartu Cycling Marathon is the world's thrid largest mountain biking marathon. About 7500 cyclists take part each year. There are two trails of 89 km and 40 km each, which take riders over gravel, sand, and smoother paths. The marathon runs through southern Estonia's forests.

22.-29.9. Tartu Science Festival 2013 (Tartu teadus festival) During the Tartu Science Festival science laboratories as well as companies implement-ing new technologies, open their doors. The highlight of the week-long festival is the Pan-European Scientists Night on 27th September. The heart of the festival is the Ahhaa

Centre with its eye-catching building in the city centre, where exciting activities and exhibitions for the whole family are offered all year long.

Cultural SummerCultural Summer

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E J U N E 2 0 1 3 21tartuJuneNews

Electric Car Rental Service Starting in late June, it will be possible to rent electric cars in Estonia. As part of the electromobility project delivered to Estonia last year, it is hoped that this car rental service will allow more of the population to experience these vehichles. According to electromobility program director Jarmo Tuisu there will be 18 Nissan Leafs and 6 Mitsubishi

iMiEVs for hire. Rental outlets in Tallinn can

be found in the Viru Keskus

shopping center, bus station, Technopolis

lemiste, Tammsaare Business

Center and Tehnopol science park in Mustame. Tartu will have two outlets, at the Ahhaa discovery center and the railway station. For more information visit elmo.ee

Men Caught Stealing Eggs from Bird Nests The Environmental Inspectorate inter-cepted two men who had stolen 314 eggs from birds' nests. The men were caught in an inflatable boat near Topu Harbour in May. The men had taken eggs from nine different species of birds, mostly black-headed gulls. None of the species were endangered. The men were not aware that this activity was illegal, but authorities estimated the damage to the environment was around 1760 euros.

Tallinn Airport Opens LibraryIf you arrived in Tallinn Airport you were sure to notice the newly opened library in the waiting area. People waiting for their flights at the Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport may now do so in the comfort of a new armchair and pick up one of the more than thousand books available at the lending library, all donated by the public, according to ETV. Erik Sakkov, a board member of the airport, said Tallinn will never become the largest airport in the world, but it can strive to become the coziest.

Police Museum opens in Rakvere The museum is a story of us, it displays our hard, yet interesting job, said Elmar Vaher, the new chief of Estonia's Police and Border Guard Board. The Police Museum in Rakvere displays guns, coun-terfeit currency, and a machine to detect reaction speeds, among other attrac-tions. The museum is hoped to attract 20,000 visitors annually.

Landmarks to Be Marked With QR Codes Over 100 cultural heritage landmarks around Estonia will be marked with QR codes that will link to official tourism websites. The first marker was installed at a Haapsalu resort, erected in 1898.The project is the result of collaboration between the National Heritage Board and Enterprise Estonia. It is funded by EU regional funds.

Summer in Tartu is packed full of cultural events, for children and adults alike.

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: JAAK NILSON

Tartus history dates back to the 13th century, but became known in 1632 with the establishment of the university. Since then, Tartu has become a students city, where 20,000 of the 100,000 inhabitants are students. Some of the Tartus most well known landmarks include the Emajgi River that flows through the centre of town, Toome Hill, the universitys main building with its distinguished columns, and of course the kis-

SightsTOP 1001 TOWN HALL SQUARE (RAEKOJA PLATS)A well-known fountain, numerous restaurants and cafs create a vibrant centre in Tartu. Museums and small shops can also be found nearby.

02 UNIVERSITY OF TARTU MAIN BUILDING (TARTU LIKOOLI PEAMAJA)The university's main building is located right in the centre of the city. Visit the main hall, art museum, and the historical detention chamber, where mischievous students were once punished for bad behaviour. For a virtual tour of the university visit: http://www4.ut.ee/virtuaaltuur/

03 TOOME HILL (TOOMEMGI)A towering ridge located in the centre of the city has a park area that is a favourite for jogging enthusiasts and dog walkers. Stop at the small caf or kiss your sweetheart on Musimgi, where it is customary to bring a padlock to hang from the railing to express your love.

04 SUPILINN "Soup Town" can be found near the city centre and is made up of authentic wooden houses. The best way to get acquainted with the area is to attend the annual spring festival, but even a leisurely walk through the neighbourhood will give you a good picture.

05 FESTIVALS AND CULTURETartuFF, PFF, and DRAAMA. The city organises many festivals and events throughout the year. Enjoy film festivals and theatre performances. During the spring and autumn, there are many student festivals as well.

06 TARTU MUSEUMSTartu has many wonderful museums. Be sure to visit the University of Tartu History Museum to become acquai-nted with the history of science and university education in Tartu from the 17th century to the present day. The

Old Observatory was once one of the most advanced astronomical research facilities in the world. Built in 1808-1810, the observatory was used until 1964 when researchers moved to the newly built observatory in Travere. A three-year renovation was completed in 2011, and the Old Observatory is open once again to visitors.

07 AHHAAThe Science Centre AHHAA in Tartu wants to bring science to everyone through interactive exhibits, fun for the whole family. There are three main rooms: the hall of technology, the hall of nature, and the hall of temporary exhibits. The temporary exhibits chan-ge about every six months. AHHAA also has a planetarium and flight simulator.

08 STUDENT DAYSTartus city centre is taken over by students who put on entertaining cul-tural and sporting events. One of the most significant and crazy events is the boat race, which takes place along the Emajgi River that runs through town. The fun is in the eye-catching vessels, made out of anything that floats or doesnt float. If you prefer to stay dry, warm, and on land, enjoy the student market, song festival or one of the pub rallies. The Student Days finish up with a huge party on the night of Walpurgis, which marks the definite arrival of spring! 29 April 5 May, www.studentdays.ee

09 TARTU ADVENTURE PARKOpened last June, the Tartu Adventure Park is the latest in outdoor fun. Located in the Raadi district in an old gravel pit, there are 50 different challenges for you to conquer like climbing and zip lining.www.tartuseikluspark.ee

10 BOTANICAL GARDENSSummer is the best time to visit Tartus Botanical Gardens. Take a tour of the large greenhouse, housing hundreds of foreign species, or enjoy the sunshi-ne in the outdoor garden.

TARTU TARTU A CITY OF GOOD THOUGHTS

How to get there? Air Flybe has six weekly connecting flights to and from Helsinki. Flight time is 50 minutes. www.tartu-airport.ee, www.flybe.com Bus An express bus runs between Tartu and Tallinn between 7.00-20.00 on the hour. Estonian buses offer free WiFi, and pass through the Tallinn Airport.Information and schedules for national bus lines can be found at: www.tpilet.eeLux Express busses run between Riga and St. Petersburg, stopping in Tartu. These buses are comfortable and luxurious, with en route service of warm drinks and snacks. Information and schedules for international bus lines can be found at: www.eurolines, www.ecolines.ee Train Morning and evening trains connect Tallinn and Tartu daily. The Tartu-Valga line connects to the Riga line from Valga.For more information and schedules visit: www.edel.ee

For more information about Tartu visit: www.visittartu.comTourist InformationRaekoda, Tartu. Summer opening hours (starting 15.05): Mo-Fr 9-18; Sa, Su 10-17.

sing students in the Town Hall Square fountain.

It is the cradle of the Estonian Song Festival, Estonian theatre and the Estonian state. It is often referred to as the city of good thoughts; and no doubt, new ideas are sprawling and bubbling in the auditoriums, laboratories, and in the minds of students. Because of its dynamic development and innovative atmosphere, Tartu University is attracting an ever growing number of foreign stu-dents and researchers.

will be 18 Nissan Leafs and 6 MiMiEVs for hire

ouo tlets inbee fo

Virsh

TTaTammsaa

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E J U N E 2 0 1 322

Almost 200 years of mud treatments Therapeutic mud was discovered on the island of Saaremaa in 1820. Kuressaares first mud baths were opened a few decades later and visitors flocked to the new spa. Spa traditions continue in Kuressaare, in the romantic boutique hotel Arensburg, the modern Grand Rose SPA, and many more.

Spa in Kuressaare:Arensburg Boutique Hotel & Spa, Lossi 15.Johan SPA Hotel, Kauba 13.Georg Ots SPA Hotell, Tori 2.Grand Rose SPA, Tallinna 15.Spa Hotell Meri, Pargi 16.Spa Hotell Rtli, Pargi 12.Spa Hotell Saaremaa Valss, Kastani 20.

kuressaare

KURESSAARE TURNS 450The capital of Saaremaa Island will celebrate with concerts and festivals all summer long.

TEXT: JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTO: TOOMAS TUUL, I. MICHELSON

While Kuressaares actual birth-day was on May 8, the upcoming summer season will keep the fes-tival spirit alive. Visitors can look forward to the annual Opera Days opera festival in July. The events artistic director is Estonias own opera legend Arne Mikk. The festivals program will include Lucia di Lammermoor, Rigolet-to, and Madame Butterfly.

Kuressaares most noteworthy sight is the Episcopal Castle and surrounding park grounds. The castle was built in the 14th cen-tury, making it even older than Kuressaare. In fact, the citys name was Arensburg until 1918. The German bishop sold the castle, and the island to Denmark in 1559, and four years later, Kuressaare became a city.

Throughout this citys long his-tory, it has had many names. It was named Kuressaare from 1918-1952,

and then once again in 1988. In the meantime, it was called Kin-gissepa, after the founder of the Estonian Communist Party, Viktor Kingissepa (1888-1922).

Kuressaare is a small and idyl-lic city, in which there are about

Travel tipABRUKA ISLAND. Located a few kilometres away from Kuressaares city centre is the Roomassaare port. From here, visitors can visit Abruka Island (6 kilometres from the mainland). The island has beautiful untouched forests, and is home to about 40 inhabitants.

Step back in time on the old cobblestone streets of Kuressaare. Kauno Kangro's sculpture decorates the promenade.

15,000 inhabitants. The city is the commercial centre of the island. Shops, restaurants, quirky cafs, spas, and hotels are many. The best time to visit is in summer, but book in advance, because Saare-maa and Kuressaare are popular vacation destinations for Esto-nians too. The ferry that connects to the mainland fills up quickly, so advance bookings are advised. Virtsu port is about 130 kilomet-res from Tallinn, and the distance between Kuivastu and Kuressaare is 75 kilometres. The ferry travels between Virtsu and Kuivastu fre-quently.

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E J U N E 2 0 1 3 23museum

TALLINN

Museums Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G. www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 1018

Estonian History Museum Maarjame Palace Maarjame Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 1017

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum) Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 1018

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum)Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We-Su 1017

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabahumuuseum)Vabahumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) Mrivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2www.tmm.ee. We-Sa 10-18

Kiek in de Kk & Bastion PassagesKommandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-181.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda)L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17 Winter by appointment only.

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu)Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.eeWe 1218, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU)Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum)Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinns Old Town Square)www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3www.linnamuuseum.ee We Mo 10.3017.30

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum)Viru vljak 4, Tallinn B2http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/N.B. 01.11.12-31.03.2012 closed on MondaysPlease contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

Art Museums & GalleriesAdamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum)Lhike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 1118

MUSEUMS & GALLERIESKadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.eeJanApr:We 1020, ThSu 1017MayJune: Th 1017, We 1020, ThSu 1017

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.eeJanJune: We 1020, Th-Su 1017JulyDec: Tu, Th-Su 1017, We 1020

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5www.kumu.eeOctApr: We 1120, ThSu 1118MaySept:Tu 1118, We 1120, ThSu 1118

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum)Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 1017 Ticket office closes 16.30

TARTU

MuseumsEstonian Literary Museum (Eesti Kirjandusmuuseum)Vanemuise 42, Tartuwww.kirmus.ee. Mo-Th 9 - 17, Fr 9 - 16.30

Estonian National Museum (Eesti Rahva Muuseum)Kuperjanovi 9, Tartu. www.erm.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Estonian Sports Museum (Eesti Spordimuuseum)Rtli 15, Tartu. www.spordimuuseum.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

KGB Cells Museum (KGB Kongide Muuseum)Riia 15b, Tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. Tu-Sa 11- 16

Museum of the 19th Century Citizen of Tartu (19. Saj. Tartu Linnakodaniku Muuseum)Jaani 16, Tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. We-Su 10-15

Postal Museum (Postimuuseum)Rtli 15, Tartuwww.erm.ee/en/visit/postal-museum. We-Su 11- 18

Tartu City Museum (Tartu Linnamuuseum)Narva 23, Tartu. Tu-Sa 11- 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Old Observatory (Thetorn)Lossi 40, TartuTu-Su 10 - 18. http://www.ajaloomuuseum.ut.ee/tahetorn

Tartu Song Festival Museum (Tartu Laulupeomuuseum)Jaama 14, TartuTu-Sa 12 - 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu Mnguasjamuuseum)Lutsu 8, Tartu www.mm.ee. We Su 11 18

City Hall Museum (Raemuuseum)Raekoda, Tartu (Town Hall Square)http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee/?m=415.09-14.05 Mo 9-18, Tu-Fr 9-17, Sa-Su 10-1415.05 -14-09 Mo-Fr 9-18, Sa-Su 10-17

LocationBMW Art Cars, 14.04- 28.07. Kumu, Weizenbergi 34, Tallinn B5.

TEXT: MIKKO VIRTA , PHOTO: BMW GROUP

The BMW Art Cars exhibit is on display for the first time in Estonia. Four cars have been brought to Tallinn of the exhibits 17 total. The cars have visited the Louvre and the Guggenheim.

Each of the cars at KUMU Art Muse-um is different. The cars feature the works of famous artists Roy Lichtenstein, Jeff Coons, A. R. Penck and David Hockney. Roy Lichtensteins BMW 320 was painted in 1977. The travelling collection was first launched in 1975.

The BMW Z1 is truly unique, A.R. Penck has transformed the car into a modern day cave painting. The red top has to be seen with your own eyes. David Hockneys painted BMW 850C certainly has no lack of colour either.

Painted in 2010, Jeff Koons BMW M3 GT2 is one of the most recent additions to the exhibit. The cars colours portray strength, movement, and energy.

The exhibit is organized by the KUMU Art Museum and the Goet-he Institute.

Art on four wheelsThese colourful cars bring art into three dimensions.

MUSEUM OF OCCUPATIONS Toompea 8, 10142 Tallinn

www.okupatsioon.eemuuseum@okupatsioon.ee

Tel +372 66 80 250Open Tue-Sun 10.00 - 18.00

Insight into the life in Estonia during three occupations (1940-1991)

Temporary exhibitions Forest Brothers

Olga Kistler-Ritso - the woman who founded the Museum

Lutsu str 8, Tartu www.mm.ee, Open Wed-Sun 11-18

TTTTTTTTTTTTTAAAAAAAAAAARRRTTUUU TTTOOOY MMUUUSSSEEEEUUUUMMM

-------- ttttttthhe cooosiieeestt place iinnn EEssstttoonnniiaaaa

!!!!!!!!

AMAZING MUSEUM FULL OF TOYS AND MEMORIES

FUN FOR FAMILIES AND PEOPLE OF ALL AGES

Located right next to the Seap-lane Harbour in Tallinn, the seaside centre at Port Nobless-ner is quickly coming together. The beginning of June will see the opening of a terrace caf/res-taurant called Caf Noblessner, and the Bagjump Action Cent-re, where you can try free fal-ling from ten metres high onto a giant air mattress.

Port Noblessner also offers guests wintering options for their boats, boat repair and maintenance services.

www.noblessner.com

New port in Tallinn

nightlife T H E B A L T I C G U I D E J U N E 2 0 1 324Every month,

English ex-pat Mark Benn s

hares

his thoughts on where to sp

end your evening:

be it drinking, dancing, or g

oing to a gig.

SUMMER CONCERT GUIDE

Summer is here and that means it's music festival time. Here's our guide to the best places to wear your silly hat

and enjoy good music under the sun's rays.

LAULUVLJAK THE SONG FESTIVAL GROUNDSLauluvljak is once again Tallinn's summer focal point with a wealth of international talent taking to its hallowed stage. As written about below, Rock Summer (15th/16th June) offers a two-day festival that kicks off the summer in style. This is followed by performances from Spanish opera superstar Jose Carreras on the 18th, international punks of repute Green Day on the 25th, and the evergreen Elton John on the 29th. The fun doesn't stop there as the llesummer festival celebrates its 20th anniversary from the 3rd to the 6th of July. Featuring both interna-tional and local talent, the festival has managed to attract some of the biggest names in pop in previous years, with 2013 promising to be no different. The Pet Shop Boys are set to headline the Friday slot, and other acts of a similar stature are set to be confirmed for the others.Another mega star who will also be visiting Tallinn this summer is Robbie Williams. On the 30th of August, the former Take That man will take to the stage in what is bound to be a packed out extravaganza well worth catching. Especially as this is his only concert in North-Eastern Europe in 2013.

www.lauluvaljak.eewww.ollesummer.ee. Day tickets 15, 4-day pass 35

VIRUFOLK (9 - 11 AUGUST) & KAUNID KNOTSERDID KSMUS (2 13 JUNE)For a number of years, Virufolk has built itself a reputation for promoting the best of Nordic culture and music. This year's festival focuses on Sweden and is set to build the festivals reputa-

Merivlja tee 1, Piritawww.riveris.ee

riverrestaurant

tion even more. While the music should be a draw in itself, the small seaside town of Ksmu, overlooking the Ingmar Sea and on the outskirts of Lahemaa National Park, provides a lush back-drop that should be seen to be believed.In addition to ViruFolk, Ksmu will also be play-ing host to Kaunid Kontserdid Ksmus (Beautiful Concerts in Ksmu). These smaller concerts complement Viru Folk and are well worth visit-ing due to the stunning seaside location.

www.virufolk.ee/eng Day Tickets 25, Festival Pass 60

VILJANDI FOLK FESTIVAL (25-28 JULY)This legendary festival, which celebrates its 21st anniversary this year, is a must for many folk fans. Attracting artists from as far afield as China and India, this festival has an international feel and has attracted fans from across the globe. The festival always has a theme and this year's is holy commotion, focusing on the many religious rituals, especially the wedding rite, as celebrated throughout the world.

www.folk.ee/festival/2013/en Day tickets 15-36. Festival pass 64

JAANIPEV FESTIVALS 22 & 23 JUNEJaanipev, or midsummer to us non-Estonians, is the most-widely celebrated holiday in Estonia, and with near 24 hours of sunlight, it's no sur-prise that there is plenty going to on to keep everyone entertained. In Prnu, two of the Baltic's biggest bands, Ewert and the Two Dragons and Latvian superstars Prata Vetra, join together to close the Watergate festival on the 22nd. The seven-day festival also sees a number of water-based activities from

yachting to sailing, and some not so water based fun for those who don't want to get their feet wet.Southern Estonians will also get to celebrate at Jaanituli, which takes place at Phajarve near Otep. The two-day festival sees performances from Estonian stars such as rappers Phja Tallinn, singer Ott Lepland and rockers Smilers, but this years big draw will be a performance from last year's Eurovision victor Lauren, all the way from Sweden.

www.watergate.ee Tickets 20www.jaanituli.eeDay pass 15, Festival pass 25 (until 10 June)

HARDROCK LAAGER (28 & 29 JUNE)For those who like to rock, Californian thrash-merchants Testament headline this one day metal festival that takes place near the small village of Vana-Valaga, an hour south of Tallinn. Other artists confirmed are Marduk, Cryptosy, 4arm, and Endstille.

www.hardrocklaager.ee Festival pass 36

SCHILLING (6 JULY)For those who like their indie music and fine cuisine, Schilling is a must-visit. Situated just south of Prnu at Kilingi-Nmme, this small festival will see performances from Krautrockers Camera, Finnish lo-fi merchants Melting Hearts and Estonian indie legend Pia Fraus. Along with some enchanted woodlands, fine cuisine and enough pinecones for everyone to share.

www.schilling.ee/2013/ Tickets 25 (before 5 July)

ROCK RAMP (1-3 AUGUST)Rock Ramp at Viljandi, which is now in its sev-enth year, is a must for those who want to judge the quality of the Estonian music scene. The festival, which is now in its seventh year, focuses on up and coming Estonian artists and provides a heady mix of variety, fun, and discovery. The castle takes centre stage, but the nightclubs of the town are also open and there will be plenty of stalls and events in the town to keep anyone occupied during the quiet bits.

www.rockramp.ee Day tickets 15, Festival pass 25

PHOTO: ELENA RUDI

T H E B A L T I C G U I D E J U N E 2 0 1 3 25

Tallinn has a vibrant nightlife. The city has many kinds of clubs and pubs, fancy or casual. There is something for everyone. Be sure to check out individual club websites for upcoming gigs.

Tallinn Nightlife

SportsClayhillsPikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1

Drink Baar Vike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2

Hell HuntPikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2

Mad MurphysMndi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2

Nimeta BaarSuur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2

Live MusicCaf AmigoViru vljak 4, Tallinn B2

Chicago 1933Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3

ClazzVana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2

Guitar HuntPrnu mnt 19, Tallinn

Rock CafTartu mnt 80D, Tallinn

Von KrahlTown H1

GayG-punktPrnu mnt 23, Tallinn

X-baarTatari 1, Tallinn

NightclubsArena 3Sadama 6, Tallinn A3

BonBonMere pst 6E, Tallinn A2

CatHouseViru vljak 4/6, Tallinn B2

Club BailaSauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

Club HollywoodVana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2

Club MntMrivahe 22, Tallinn Old Town I2

Club PrivHarju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1

Club StudioSauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

PanoraamAhtri 10, Tallinn A2

ParlamentAhtri 10, Tallinn A2

ParteiRvala pst 8, Tallinn