A Basic Guide to Cosmetic and Toiletry Development.pdf

8/14/2019 A Basic Guide to Cosmetic and Toiletry Development.pdf

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John Woodruff

A Basic Guide to

Cosmetic &

Toiletry Development


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A Basic Guide toFormulating Cosmetics & Toiletries

What is a cosmetic?

Understanding product briefsFrom concept to product formulation

Sources of information

EU cosmetic regulationsThe global marketplaceCost effective formulationProduct stability & preservation

Example formulation techniques


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What is a cosmetic?


Sources of informationEU cosmetic regulationsThe global marketplaceCost effective formulationProduct stability & preservation



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What is a cosmetic product?European Regulations specify 6 functions for

cosmetic products, namely:-to perfume

to clean

to change the appearanceto protect

to keep in good conditionto correct body odours


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To perfume

Perfume

Toilet watersMists & sprays

Aromatherapy preparations

Bath additives

Shower gels

DeodorantsBody lotions

These productsshouldnot penetrate the skinbut perfumecompoundsincluding essentialoils may do so.


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To clean

Soap

Syndet barsBath additivesShower gels

Cleansing emulsionsScrubsCleansing masksShampoos

These products should

not penetrate the skinbut they do affect theskin surface (Stratumcorneum SC), they

can remove skin lipids,affect skin barrierproperties, increasecell turn- over, changepH & cause loss ofmoisture


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To change the appearance

Decorative cosmeticsFoundation creamsBlushersLipsticks & eye shadowsFake tansCover fine lines & wrinkles

Plump out fine lines & wrinkles*Freeze facial muscles*

DHA tanning*Skin lightening*

These products shouldnot penetrate the skin .

*These products needto penetrate the S.C.


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To protect

Sun protection

Barrier creamsAntiseptic washes

Anti-oxidants*Protect immune system*

These products shouldnot penetrate the skin.

*These products needto penetrate the S.C.


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To keep in good condition

Moisturise

Occlusive filmHumectantsNMF*

Anti-oxidants*Support immune system*

Plump out fine lines & wrinkles*

*Generally theseproducts need topenetrate the S.C.

NMF = Urea, cholesterol,sodium lactate, lactic acid,amino acids, phospholipids,sodium PCa, water


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To correct body odours

DeodorantsAntiperspirantsCleansing*

e.g.washing

These products shouldnot penetrate the skin.

*These products may

affect the S.C.


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Field of application

The field of application of cosmetics is to

one or more of the following:the epidermisthe hair system

the nailsthe lipsthe external genital organsthe teeththe mucous membranes of the oral cavity


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A Basic Guide toFormulating Cosmetics & ToiletriesField of

Application

anywhere

visible, withor withoutswimming costumes


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What is a cosmetic?





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A Basic Guide to

Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries

The Brief

A clear concise document produced by themarketing department after extensivemarket research with intended claimsclearly defined.

OrWoolly description full of pitfalls like

Natural & Organic and claims changingas new ideas occur to originator.


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A Basic Guide toFormulating Cosmetics & ToiletriesThe Packaging

Already identified and selected as theideal pack form to contain and deliver theproduct.

OrTo be decided!

Usually after 2 months stability testing on a

product with a quite unsuitable rheology for thefinal pack choice.


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The Bench MarkAn exciting & innovative product with clearfunctional benefits & with a similar selling price tothe product required.

OrTwo or three totally different products, all 3x theselling price of the product required.Does the bench mark meet the product

requirements?Claims, market niche, legislation?


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The Time Table

A program agreed between all concerned,allowing sufficient time for formulation, testing andproceeding to manufacture via pilot scale batches.

OrMarketing has a slot promised by a major store 5months ahead. That is plenty of time surely!

Remember formulations can fail at anystage.


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Tip

Read the brief and also read between the

lines:If natural claims then reduce non-naturalsto a minimum & no animal ingredients

If organic avoid all proscribed ingredientsE.g. Ethoxylated materials

Most preservatives / colours / minerals /petroleum-based materials etc.etc.


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Tip

Read the brief and also read between the lines:

If one customer, obey special requirementsIf for sensitive areas, mucous membranes etc.avoid unsuitable colours & preservatives

Mucous membranesin the vicinity of the eyeson the lips

in the oral cavityon the external genital organs


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Tip

Read the brief and also read between the lines:

Identify target consumerYoung greasy, acne

Cleanse, tone & leave alone

Old mature, dry, sensitive, lacking radiance &resilience

Cleanse, desquamate, moisturise, cover up

Middle combination skinProtect & moisturise


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What is a cosmetic?





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Sources of Information

Look at the bench mark & competitors products?Do they deliver their claims?If so how?

cosmeticsdesign-europe.comChemidex.comCosmeticsbusiness.comSuppliers representatives & web sitesTrade press & relevant articles

Conference presentationsPatent literatureText books


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What is a cosmetic?

Understanding product briefsFrom concept to product formulationSources of information




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The Regulations

Ignore at your peril

EU 76/768/EEC The 7 th AmendmentAnd all subsequent amendments

The Cosmetic Products (Safety)Regulations 2004 SI 2185

Customer-specific requirements

e.g. Boots GR-10


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The Regulations

EU 76/768/EEC The 7 th Amendment

It lists those materials that cosmetics must notcontainThose materials subject to restrictions in field of

application and/or maximum allowed %A positive list of coloursA positive list of antiperspirant materials

A positive list of preservativesA positive list of UV absorbers


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Mucous membranes

Be aware

More prone to irritant reactionsRestrictions on coloursRestrictions on preservativesMore stringent microbial rulesOnly ingestible products i.e.those withA.D.I., should be applied to the lips

Tip - match pH to area of application e.g.Eyes are 7+/- 0.2 / Skin is ~5.3


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What is a cosmetic?





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Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries for theGlobal Marketplace

EU / USA / Japan / Brazil etc.

Each area has own regulationsParticularly affecting

Colours

PreservativesAntiperspirantsSunscreens

AlsoLabellingNames of ingredients


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What is a cosmetic?


Sources of informationEU cosmetic regulationsThe global marketplace

Cost effective formulationProduct stability & preservationExample formulation techniques


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Cost effective formulation of Cosmetics & Toiletries

Start with current material inventory

Dont add cost without adding valueColin HessionKeep it simple but effective

Look at methods of productionProcess plant availabilityHeating costs / cooling costs / mixing costs

/ processing time costsFill using current machinery


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Tip

Think commercially

Use materials that are already in current stockwherever possible

Use laboratory mixing equipment which

represents that available in the factoryThink of the likely batch sizes

Can they be made with existing equipment?

If there is a problem can the formula be revised?Can the product be filled with existing equipment?


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Tips

Use laboratory mixing equipment whichrepresents that available in the factory


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Tips

Use laboratory

mixing equipmentwhich representsthat availablein the factory


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What is a cosmetic?



Example formulation Techniques


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Stability and preservation ofCosmetics & Toiletries

Preservative choice affected by

RegulationsType of product

Leave-on or Wash-off?

pH of productpH < 6 / pH > 7

Other ingredientsParabens inactivated by ethoxylatesPhenoxyethanol thins many emulsions


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Stability and preservation ofCosmetics & Toiletries

Stability checking is essentialMinimal requirements are stability testing at 4C /RT / 40C for 3 months plus light where applicable

45C used by some companiesFreeze / thaw cycles

Test in final packagingA product should remain stable for minimal 36 months atRTContinuing preservative efficacy over testing period isessentialPAO = Period After Opening depends on product typeand packaging


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Tip

Decide which preservatives can or cannot beused

Talk to marketing. Talk to microbiologist

The choice could affect your product stability

Make selection of perfume a priorityTalk to marketing and talk to the supplier

The choice could affect your product stability

If possible incorporate these two items indevelopment samples from the outset


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Formulation Techniques


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A Basic Guide to


Cosmetic functions

to perfumeto clean

to change the appearanceto protect

to keep in good condition

to correct body odours


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Claims substantiation

All proposed claims and methods ofsubstantiation should be agreed at the start ofproduct development so that a clear justificationof claims can be provided from controlled

laboratory trials.User trial results (responses from 50 people) orraw material data or a combination of the above

can be used.From Boots document to own label suppliers


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Functional skin care

The vehicle and the active ingredient(s).

The two parts must be compatible and thefinal product must be pleasant to use.Which comes first?

Depends on many factorsProduct form

PackagingClaim


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A Basic Guide to


To keep in good condition

Remove dead skin cellsProtect from UV radiation

Support immune systemProtect from free radical species /ROS

Replace lost lipidsMoisturise


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A Basic Guide to

Formulating Cosmetics & ToiletriesNarrowing the choice

CostSupporting the claim

Check that claim support data is realistic and believableWill the product support the level of use on which claimsdata is based?

Compatibility with vehicleCompatibility with packaging

Safety assessmentPatent search


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Remove dead skin cells

Wash

ScrubTape stripping!Peels including enzymes e.g. PapainAlpha hydroxy acids AHAs

Glycolic acid / citric acid / lactic acid / malic acid / salicylic acid

Fruit acids

To keep ingoodcondition


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AHAs: Selecting the activeGlycolic acid / citric acid / lactic acid / malic acid / salicylic acid

Proprietary mixtures e.g. Acifructol Complex ex Gattefosse

Aqua (Water)

Citric Acid

Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract

Citrus Medica Limonum Extract

Lactic Acid

Malic Acid

Propylene Glycol

Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Extract

Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract


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AHAs: Selecting the active

Possible choiceGlycolic acidPlus proprietary mixture

Combines effectiveness with natural claims


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AHAs: Designing the vehicle

ParameterspH 4 5ElectrolytesLow oil content

Penetration requiredPossible forms

o/w emulsion

foaming mousselight scrub


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AHAs: Designing the vehicle

o/w emulsionEmulsifier suitable for pH 4 5Oil or ester resistant to acid hydrolysisPenetration enhancer ?

Balance efficacy against safety

Urea or ethoxydiglycolOr soften SC with emollients

Anti-irritation ingredient e.g. BisabololPerfume / Preservatives / Rheology modifier


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AHAs: Possible formulation

3.00% Glyceryl stearate1.00% PEG-100 stearate3.00% Caprylic / capric triglyceride1.00% Paraffinum liquidumAqua to 100%0.05% Disodium EDTA2.50% Glycolic acid3.00% Mixed fruit acids5.00% Ethoxydiglycol0.50% Bisabolol0.20% Xanthan gumFragrancePreservatives e.g. Methyl + propyl parabenpH adjusted to 3.8 4.3

To keep in


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Protect from solar radiation

Why we should do so!

To keep ingood condition

P f l di iTo keep in


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Protect from solar radiation

Sunscreen ActivesOrganic screens

Less expensiveWell known properties & technology

But possible irritationPossibly unstableProduct / pack interactions

InorganicSafe

Broad spectrumBut whitening on skinDrag on application

To keep ingoodcondition

UV P S l i h i


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UV Protect: Selecting the active

Dependent onRequired SPFIs UVA protection required?Intended market legislation?Intended vehicle & pack form

Clear gelo/w emulsionw/o emulsionOilSpray

UV P t t S l ti th ti


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UV Protect: Selecting the active

Possible answerOrganic UV absorber

plus inorganic dispersionNot suitable for oil or clear gel

e.g. Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate UVBTiO 2 dispersion in oil phase to extend UVprotection into UVA orZnO dispersion for increased UVAprotection

UV P t t D ig i g th hi l


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UV Protect: Designing the vehicle

Design parameters

pHZnO approx 8Effect of inorganic dispersion aid

Solubility of activeSkin penetration not wantedWater-resistantPleasant to apply

UV Protect: Possible form lation


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UV Protect: Possible formulation

3.00% Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate2.00% Ethylhexyl Palmitate5.00% Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate1.50% Dimethicone &/or cyclopentasiloxane0.50% Potassium Cetyl Phosphate12.50% Titanium Dioxide dispersion in oil3.50% Cera Alba (Beeswax)3.50% Sorbitan PalmitateAqua (Water) to 100%2.00% Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate2.00% Magnesium Aluminum Silicate + silica3.50% Polysorbate 200.30% Sodium LactateFragrance / Preservatives

Support immune systemTo keep in


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Support immune system

Abstract USP 6,843,995The invention relates to a cosmetic preparationcontaining an active complex comprised of anextract from truffles (Tuberaceae) in acosmetically acceptable gel while being stabilized.A preferred active complex is one that additionallycontains a champagne product. Cosmetic preparations containing this active complex leadto an improved stimulation of the immunesystem, an improved regenerative effect and thusto an improved balance in the ecosystem of theskin.

pgoodcondition



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Possible formulation

TrufflesChampagne

Protect against free radicalsTo keep in


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Protect against free radicals

Anti- oxidantsVitamin E - TocopherolVitamin C Ascorbic acid & ascorbyl compoundsFerulic acidSuperoxide dismutaseBHT / BHA / Propyl gallate / Thio compounds

Numerous plant extracts e.g.Lycopene from tomatoesRosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) extractCamellia sinensis (Green tea) extract

Punica granatum (Pomegranate) extractRubus idaeus (Raspberry) leaf extractSalix nigra (Willow) bark extract

goodcondition

Replace lost lipidsTo keep in


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Replace lost lipids

As skin ages the ceramide content of the SCdecreases.

Ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids areeffective in restoring lost lipids and the barrierfunctions of the skin.

Ceramides AKA Sphingosines (9 identified)Fatty acid = linoleic acid particularly effective

Together with cholesterol, lamella structures are

formed, which penetrate upper SC.

goodcondition


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Moisturise


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Moisturise

Select the active

The choice of moisturising ingredients isvery widePetrolatum & other oils & fats form an

occlusive film, virtually preventing TEWLLanolin has moisture holding propertiesand can penetrate upper SC


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Moisturise


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Moisturise

Narrowing the choiceThe brief

Target skin type & area of applicationClaims

The costPetrolatum / glycerin etc are cheapCeramides / yeast ferments etc are

expensiveBotanicals have consumer appeal

Moisturise


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Moisturise

Narrowing the choice

The pack formSpray / bottle / tube / jar

The vehicleGel / lotion / cream

Other actives

Multi-functional

Moisturise


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Moisturise

Narrowing the choiceIf a gel

What thickening system?Carbomers / cellulose / mineral /alginates?pH restraints?Clarity required?

Oils & Fragrance create problemsCompatibility issues?

Moisturise


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Narrowing the choiceIf a gel

What thickening system?Exposed to light?Photo-degradation

Thinning and/or discolourationPreservative system?Mixing requirements?

Heating / cooling / high shear / slowmixing

Moisturise


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Narrowing the choiceSelect gel form

CarbomerpH 5.5 - 7.5No electrolytesWater- soluble activesChelate ionsProtect against UV

Cold mixing possibleHigh shear not required

Moisturising gel


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g g

Carbomer basedChelate + UV Absorber (EDTA2Na +B4)+ Neutraliser (e.g. NaOH or TEA or AMP)+ Preservative system (e.g. Parabens)

Humectant (e.g. Glycerin or PG or Sorbitol)Active e.g.

Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceHydrolysed wheat protein

Moisturise


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Narrowing the choiceIf a lotion

What emulsifying system?Anionic / cationic / non - ionicw/o or o/w or w/Si/wpH restraints?Compatibility issues?

Fragrance / polar & non - polar oilsStability

Preservative system?Mixing requirements

Heating / cooling / high shear / slow mixing

Moisturise


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Narrowing the choiceIf a cream

What emulsifying system?

Anionic / cationic / non - ionicw/o or o/w or w/Si/wpH restraints?

Compatibility issues?StabilityUse of hydrocolloid

Preservative system?Mixing requirements

Heating / cooling / high shear / slow mixing

Moisturising emulsions


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Aqueous Phase

Oil phaseEmulsifier systemRheological modifierPreservative systemActive ingredients

Fragrance



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Aqueous PhaseHumectant / Moisturiser CTFA makes no difference but JWthinks of humectants as hygroscopic materials used as muchto keep the product moist as for moisturising skin.

HumectantsGlycerin / Sorbitol / Propylene glycol / Polyethylene glycol(PEG) & various sugars

MoisturisersInnumerable 398 from Acetamide MEA to ZymomonasFerment Extract in CTFA Dictionary, including sea water!

ActivesMost actives are water-soluble

Preservative system

Oil Phase: Selecting the emollients: Cognis


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Cascading theory

means select anumber of emollientsso that the sensorialfeel is spreadthroughout the timeof application.

Cosmetics should feel

good!

Oil Phase: Selecting the emollients: Degussa


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Size of circles: proportional to spreadability

Color of circles: polar non-polar

PP = pour point, CP = cloudpointsurface tension [mN/m]

viscosity [mPas]17

2 10 100

18

1920

21

22

23

24

25

26

27

2829

30

31

32

33

25

21

19

2

1

4 5 6

7

8129

13

14

1718

15

16

310

20

11

22

2423

No. INCI Name PP (CP) [C]1 Cyclopentasiloxane


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Oil PhaseWatch out for

RancidityOil phase incompatibilities e.g.

Waxes crystallisingDimethicone / Mineral oil

Melt & mix oil phase together; is it clear? Doesit stay homogenous when cooled?

Dragging / greasiness / odours



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What emulsifying system?Anionic

o/wMore commonly associated with cleansingsurfactantsSLS - irritantTEA-Stearate OK for cleansers / not leave-on

Potassium cetyl phosphate forms liquidcrystals, worth attention



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What emulsifying system?Cationic

w/oMore commonly associated with hairconditioning

Irritancy concernsHowever at least one material supplier ispromoting their use with the following claims:-

Cationic O/W emulsifier based on renewable rawmaterials with excellent emulsifying properties



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What emulsifying system?CationicExcellent emulsification behaviourLight emulsions, matte finishPowdery, smooth and dry skin feel afterapplicationLow greasiness, stickiness or tackInherent moisturisationSubstantive to skin

Extraordinary and unique skin feel



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What emulsifying system?Non-ionic

o/w or w/oSelection using HLB system possible

Sorbitan esters / ethoxylated paire.g. Sorbitan stearate / Polysorbate - 20Alkoxylated alcohols

e.g. Ceteareth - 20But move against ethoxylates!



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What emulsifying system?

Recent introductions of sucrose esters andunderstanding the benefits of liquid crystalformation is driving new formulations


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Non-ionic liquid crystal forming emulsifiersCetearyl glucoside

Cetearyl olivate / Sorbitan olivateSucrose cocoate / Sorbitan stearateSorbitan stearate / Sorbityl laurateCetearyl polyglucosidePolyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearateCetearyl polyglucoside / polyglyceryl-2

dipolyhydroxystearate



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Liquid crystals arestates of matter thatexist in between the

solid and the ordinaryliquid phase. The maincharacteristic of thephase is the existence

of partial ordering(positional andorientational) like thatof the crystal phase butthe phase has theability to flow like aliquid.



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Oil PhaseRefer to Cognis cascading theory of emollients

Degussa selection chart

Cyclopentasiloxane stops soaping up

Vegetable oils are polar (& popular)Capric/caprylic triglyceride is good stuff

Cetyl or cetearyl alcohol and/or glycerylstearate helps stabilise LC structures



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Rheology modifierXanthan gumMinerals e.g. Bentonite / Veegum / LaponiteCarbomerAcrylates copolymerSclerotium Gum

MannanModified starchGum tragacanthAlginates

SilicaCellulose derivatives



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Preservative systemAffected by other ingredients

pHMarket trendsActive ingredients

Affected by marketing claimsOther ingredientspH

FragranceNo Fragrance / Perfume / Essential OilsAffected by named allergens

Moisturising emulsions: possible formulation


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7.00% Caprylic/capric triglyceride2.50% Cetearyl alcohol5.00% Prunus amygdalus dulcis (Sweet almond) oil1.50% Cyclopentasiloxane0.01% Ceramide0.10% TocopherolAqua (Water) to 100%0.08% Disodium EDTA1.50% Cetearyl polyglucoside (emulsifier)0.20% Xanthan gum0.50% Niacinamide5.00% Glycerin1.00% Sodium PCa3.00% Aloe barbadensis leaf juice2.00% Punica granatum (Pomegranate) extractPreservatives / Fragrance / pH adjusters

DLC Question


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A major brand of moisturising lotion lists itsingredients as

Aqua, Cetyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Paraffinumliquidum, Petrolatum, Cetyl Alcohol, GlycerylHydroxystearate, Stearic Acid, Steareth 100,

Dimethicone, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Fragrance,Potassium Hydroxide, DMDM Hydantoin,Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Tetrasodium

EDTA, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl AcrylateCrosspolymer, Carbomer, Red 4.

DLC Question


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Claims are:-Softens and smoothes for radiant skin.Light, Non- Greasy Formula.Dermatologist Tested.Non- Comedogenic (Won't Clog Pores).

Moisturizes- Penetrates quickly, providing your skin withimmediate surge of active moisture to soothe drynesswithout greasy feel.Improves- Helps your skin replenish its own essentialfluids so skin is softer, smoother and more supple.Restores- Works like the essential fluids abundant inyoung skin to help restore skin to its natural beauty anddiminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

DLC Question


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Using your knowledge ofingredients briefly describe the function ofeach ingredient in this product, give yourbest guess for the % by weight of theindividual ingredients and in no more than100 words write a label description of theproperties of this product aimed to sell it to

a consumer.


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DLC Question


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It is your task as head of product development toreformulate this product in order to make strong

moisturising claims and to avoid using materialsthat are no longer perceived as appealing toconsumers. There are no financial restraints on

the material costs.Finally, list the reformulated product ingredientsin descending order of concentration, show their

approximate % in the new formula and rewritethe label copy to appeal to the target consumer.

If you get it right!


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And if you get it wrong!


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A Basic Guide to Cosmetic and Toiletry Development.pdf

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