Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations 2nd Ed [Vol 4] - e Flick (Noyes, 1989) Ww
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Transcript of Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations 2nd Ed [Vol 4] - e Flick (Noyes, 1989) Ww
COSMETIC AND TOILETRY FORM U LATI 0 N S
Second Edition
Volume 4
bY
Ernest W. Flick
NOYES PUBLICATIONS Park Ridge, New Jersey, U.S.A.
Copyright 0 by Ernest W. Flick No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any informa- tion storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the Publisher.
Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 89-39099
Printed in the United States ISBN: 0-8155-1383-6 (v. 4)
Published in the United States of America by Noyes Publications Mill Road, Park Ridge, New Jersey 07656
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data (Revised for vol. 4)
Flick, Ernest, W. Cosmetic and toiletry formulations.
1. Cosmetics. 2. Toilet preparations. I. Title. TP983.F55 1989 668'.55 89-39099 ISBN 0-8155-1218-X (v. 1) ISBN 0-8155-1306-2 (v. 2) ISBN 0-8155-1367-4 (v. 3) ISBN 0-8155-1383-6 (v. 4)
Contents and Subject Index
SECTION I: ANTIPERSPIRANTS AND DEODORANTS . . . . . . . . . . 1 Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiperspirant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Aerosol Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Antiperspirant Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 OiWater Antiperspirant Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Antiperspirant Roll-On . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Roll-On Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Antiperspirant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Oil-in-Water Antiperspirant Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Antiperspirant Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Deodorant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Deodorant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Dry Antiperspirant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Quick Drying Roll-On Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Dry Roll-On Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Talc Spray Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 General Purpose Stick Formulation-1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 General Purpose Stick Formulation-2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Stick Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Roll-On Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Quick Dry Roll-On Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Clear Roll-On A.P. Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Spray Powder Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Deodorant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Stick Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
SECTION 11: BABY PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Baby Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Baby Lotion Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Baby Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Baby Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Baby Foam Baths . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Tear Free Baby Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Baby Wipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
vii
viii Contents and Subject Index
Mild Children's Bubble Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
SECTION III: BATH AND SHOWER PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Aerosol Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Dispersible Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 BathGel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Bath Gelee with Natural Lipid Protein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Bath Gelee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Emollient Bath Gelee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Bath Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Washing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Bath Oil, De Luxe with Plant Oils . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Foam Bath with Almond Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Foam Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Bubble Bath & Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Bubble Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Clear Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 High Foaming Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Foam Baths, Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Foam Baths, Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Herbal Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Foam Bath, Transparent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Mild Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Shower Bath Gel with Pearl Lustre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Clear, Mild to the Skin Shower Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Refreshing Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Shower Bath for Everyday Use . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Mild Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Shower Baths, Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Shower Baths, Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Shower Gel Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Bath Crystals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Silky Bath Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Water White Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
SECTION IV: BEAUTY AIDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Aloe Vera Skin Freshener . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Powder Mask Activator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 BlemisWScar Concealer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Skin Cleanser with Porous Cellulose Particles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Body Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Body Powder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Contents and Subject Index ix
Cheek Rouge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Concealing Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Cream Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Dry Powder Rouge Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Cream Facial Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Oil-in-Water Cream and Its Scrub Derivative . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Cream-to-Powder Eye Shadow with Dry-Floc PC . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Liquid Talc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Creamy Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Waterproof Eye Liner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Creamy Matte Make Up Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Liquid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Creamy Roll-On Lip Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Deep Extra Body Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Emollient Liquid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Emulsion Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Water-in-Oil Lotion Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Eye Contour Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Eye Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Eyeliner SticWencil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Face and Body Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Lip Care Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Face-Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Skin Tonic Water Without Alcohol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Sting Free Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Fluid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Compact Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Fluid Make Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Regenerating Lipcare-Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Gelled Aloe Vera with Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Aloe Vera Jelly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Gentle Beauty Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Hair and Skin Moisturizing Mist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Hair and Skin Moisturizing Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Hair Liquid (Soft Type) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 High Shine Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Lipstick Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Lip Balm White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Lip Balm I . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Lip Balm I1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Lip Gloss (Souffle) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Roll-On Lip Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Lip Pencil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
x Contents and Subject Index
New Look Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Lip-Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Lipstick, Glossy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Lipstick Formulae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Liquid Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Powder Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Liquid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Silky Facial Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Lotion Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Lotion Hand Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Low Cost, Extended Wear Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Low Cost Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Lip Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Makeup Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Eyebrow Pencil, Heat Stable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Moisture Stick Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Cream Rouge Formula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Pot Eyeshadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Moisturizing Liposomal Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Skin Tightening Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Moisturizing Make-up Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Skin Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Moisturizing Milk with High Electrolyte Content . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 W/O Hydrating Body Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Nail Polish Remover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Non-Feathering Extended Wear Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Oil/Water Matte Cream Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Lip Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Oil-in-Water Milk Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Oil-in-Water Milk Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 One Coat Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Overnight Facial Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Moisturizing Make-up Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 O/W Cleansing Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 W/O Cleansing Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 O/W Cleansing Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Dry Skin Oil with Alcohol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Petroleum OiWetroleum Wax Free Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Pressed Powder Eye Shadow (Pearlescent Type) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Face Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Contents and Subject Index xi
Pressed Powder Eyeshadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
Cosmetic Aerosol Foam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Pressed Powder with 1% Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Pressed Powder with 3% Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Prolonged Skin Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Skin Lightening Composition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Three Layer Facial Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
100 Slenderizing Cream with Green Tea Extract . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
Molded Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
Purifying Clay Face Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Amidroxy Sugar Cane Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Soothing Body Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Anhydrous Deep Penetrating Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Stick Type Lip Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Thickening Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Thigh Slimming Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Ultra Rich Hand and Body Nourisher . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Vegetable Based Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Liquifying Cream Makeup Remover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Water Resistant Liquid Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Lip Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
SECTION V:CREAMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 All Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Vanishing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 All Purpose Dry Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Dry Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Almond Vanishing Cream with Collagen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Dry Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream with 10% Aloe Vera Gel . . . . . . . . . . 115 Aloe Vera Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Anti-Cellulite Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 Antiwrinkle Daycream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Daycream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Benzoyl Peroxide Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Day Cream O/W for Sensitive Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Mascara Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Cold Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Facial Washing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Daily Facial Cream with W Protection (Om . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
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Day Cream. Oily . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Moisturizing Cream. Slightly Oily . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Deep Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Apricot Vanishing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Stabilized Urea Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Emollient Cream for Dry Flaking Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Facial Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Non-Greasy Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
European O N Day Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Facial Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Moisturizing Hand and Body Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Facial Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
General Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 General Purpose WatedOil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 General Purpose O/W Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Acne Scrub Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Emollient Cream, WatedOil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 General Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 Water-in-Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 General Purpose Water/Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Mineral Oil Cream-W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 General Purpose W/O Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 Oil-in-Water Cream and Its Scrub Derivative . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 General Purpose W/O Hand Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Oil-in-Water Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Gentle Night Repair Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
Glycolic Acid Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 Hand and Body Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 High Content Mineral Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 O/W Petrolatum Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 Hydrocortisone Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 All Natural Cream (W/O Type) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 Hydrogen Peroxide Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Hydroxy Acid Cream (W/O Emulsion) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Moisturizing Cream Cold Process W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Light Texture Hand Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
Vanishing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
Exfoliating Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
Age Spot Treatment Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Glossy Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
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Facial Moisture Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Mixed Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Multi-Functional Day Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Multi-Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Versatile Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Night Cream (15% Aloe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Aloe Bath Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 OiWater Cold Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 O/W Cold Cream (Soap Free) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 O i w a t e r Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 OiWater Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 OiWater Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 W/O Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 OiWater Pigmented Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 O/W All-Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Oil-in-Water-in-Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 Transparent Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 O/W Protective Hand Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Hand Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Modified Oil-in-Water Stearic Acid Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Hand Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Moisturizer O/W Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
Night Cream, Non-Greasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 O/W Cream, with Bacteriostat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Protective Face and Body Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
Protective Face and Body Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
Neck Firming Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
Eye Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Rejuvenating Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 W/O Night Repair Cream "Cold Procedure" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Silk Protein Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 Moisturizing Cream with Tritosol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177
Silky-Smooth LotiodCream-B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Silky-Smooth LotiodCream-C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 Silky Smooth Cream Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 SkinCream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 Skin Cream with CAE and Amihope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Skin Care Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Soft Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
Silky-Smooth LotiodCream-A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
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Jojoba Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 Vanishing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Ross Cold Cream Formulation with Jojoba Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 W/O Cream with Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 90% Water Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 Soft and Silky Vanishing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
SECTION VI: HAIR CARE PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 "Artic Mist" Spray Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 Super Hard Hold Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 Balsam Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Clear Conditioner with Wheat Germ Cationic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Clear Leave-On Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Birch Hair Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 Invigorating Hair Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 Brushing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 Hair Brushing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 Brushing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 Hair Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 Clear Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Light Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Clear Gel Hairdressing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 WatedOil Hair Dressing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Clear 'N' Natural Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Cream of Wheat Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Conditioner and Setting Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Curl Conditioner and Oil Sheen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Foaming Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Conditioner with Croquat HH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 High Performance Creme Rinse Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 Cream Curl Activator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 Hair Relaxer Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 Cream Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Pearl Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Cream Hair Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Hydrogen Peroxide Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Permanent Wave Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Deep Conditioning Treatment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Intensive Conditioner with Body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Ethnic Hair Care Clear Hair Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 Ethnic Hair Care Hair Dressings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
Contents and Subject Index xv
Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gels Hair Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
Conditioning Sheen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-On Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens
Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gel for Shine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gel Moisturizing . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 Ethnic Hair Care Leave-In Moisturizing'Sheen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 Ethnic Hair Care Hair Cuticle Coat Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-On MoisturizindOil-Sheens
Moisturizing Sheen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-On Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens
Extra Sheen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 Ethnic Hair GlossedConditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Ethnic Pump Spray Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Ethnic Hair GlosserBxtra Conditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 Ethnic air Care Extra Conditioning Coat Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . 209 Extra Hold Conditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 Leave-On Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 Firm Hold Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 High Performance Styling Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 Gel Curl Activator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 Alcohol Free Styling Gel pH: 7.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 Guanidine No Base Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 Potassium Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 Hair Brushing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 Hair Conditioner with Moisturizers and Quatemium-79
Hydrolyzed Animal Protein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 High Quality Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 Hair Conditioning Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Hair Conditioner with CAE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Hair Conditioning Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Clear Hair Conditioner Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Hair Conditioning Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Hair Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 Hair Tonic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 Hair Dressing W/O Cold Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 Hair Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 Hair Gloss to Control Gel Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Iridescent Hair Gel Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Hair Pomade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 Hair Relaxer4lycerine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Hair Relaxer-Glycol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Hair Sculpting Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
mi Contents and Subject Index
Hair Straightener . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 Conditioning Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 High Petrolatum Mousse Aerosol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Hot Oil Hair Treatment Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Hot Oil Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Hot Oil Super Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Soft Glossing Spritz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Intensive Conditioning Pomade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 Light Oil Free Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 Intensive Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Salon Strength Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Leave-On Scalp and Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 Extra Hold Conditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 Light Oil Free Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 Aloe Vera air Conditioner (Light) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 Low Cost Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 Extra Stable Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 Medium Hold, 80% VOC Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 55% VOC Pump Hair Spray 233 Medium Strength Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 Medium Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 Moisture Balance Conditioner w/Cropeptide W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 "Leave-On" Conditioner Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 Natural Lipid Conditioner for Professional Salon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 Mild Opaque Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 Mild Pearl Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 Non-Aerosol Hair Spray with Protein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 Hair Rinse for Stressed Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 Pearly Lotion Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 Protein Lotion Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 Spray Leave-On Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 Pump Gel Type Spritz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239 Moisturizing Hair Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239 Pump Spray Hair Detangler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 Hot Oil Treatment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 Ringing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241 Micro Emulsion Ringing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241 Salon Type Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 Silicone Hair Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243 Shebu Hair Setting Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243 Stiff Holding Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Aerosol Shaping Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 StylingIConditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 Clear Gel Grooming Agent and Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
Contents and Subject Index xvii
Hair Straightening Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 Styling Mousse X22176-106 (Hydroalcoholic) Styling Mousse X22176-107 (Alcohol-Free) Water-Based Hair Spray X21980-057 (Pump) Water-Based Hair Spray X21980-058 (Aerosol) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247 Wheat Germ Foaming Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 Natural Lipid Styling Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 Pump Type Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 55% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249 80% VOC Non-Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249 80% VOC Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 55% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 80% VOC Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251 High Humidity Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251 80% VOC Aerosol Shaper Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 High Solids 80% VOC Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247
SECTION W: LOTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 After Exercise Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254 Therapeutic Humectant Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254 Alcoholic Milk Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 Milk Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Banana Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 O/W Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Behenyl Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259 Velvet 44-Behenyl Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259 Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 Moisturizing Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 Concentrated Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 Deep Skin Cleansing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Deep Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 Emollient Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 European O/W Cleansing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Water/Oil Cleansing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Gentle Moisturizing Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267 Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 Protective Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270
Emollient Lotion O/W Cold Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
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Soft Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271 Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 Jojoba Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 High Petrolatum Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 Low Irritation Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 Hydroalcoholic Mineral Oil Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 Mineral Oil Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 Isopropyl Myristate Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 Vanishing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 Lanolin and Aloe Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277 Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278 Glossy Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278 Low Solids Almond Lotion I1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279 Peach Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279 Milk Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 Mineral Oil Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282 Mineral Oil L o t i o n 4 / W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282 Mineral Oil Free Lotion Contains Ethanol (20%) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283 Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283 Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 Pomade Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 Neutralizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 Quick Dry Roll-On Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 O/W Broad Spectrum Protective Moisturizing Lotion
with Vitamins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 O/W Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287 O/W Lotion with a-Hydroxy Acids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 O/W Lotion Cold/Cold Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 Oil-in-Water Body Care Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290 OiWJater Foundation Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290 OiWater Emollient Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291 Perfumed Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 Silk Protein Skin Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293 Pearlescent Bath Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293 Skin Care Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294 Skin Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295 Dry Skin Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295 Skin Softening Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296 Skin Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296 Soft and Silky Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297 Low Cost Low Solids Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297 Strawberry Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298
Contents and Subject Index xix
Apricot Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298 Super Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299 IRF Facial Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 Facial Moisturizing Lotion (W/O) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 Ultra Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301 Un-Buffered Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302
Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303 W/O Lotion with Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 Mild Lotion with Amihope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304
W/O Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303
S E W O N VIII: SHAMPOOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305 Acid Balanced Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 All Purpose Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 Aloe Vera Gel Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 Aloe Vera Premium-Type Shampoo with Protein . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 Anti-Dandruff Lotion Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Cream Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 Anti-Dandruff Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309 Cleaning Shampoo Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309 Anti-Dandruff Shampoos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 Shampoos for Greasy Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 Antidandruff Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311 Protein Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311 Balsam and Protein Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cleaning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314
Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316 Cold Mix Shampoo w/Crosultaine C-50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317 Everyday Hair Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 Gentle Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319 Mild Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319 Cream Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 Highly Pearlescent Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 Emollient Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321 Moisturizing Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321 Shampoo Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321
Everyday Family Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323
312
Professional Salon Type Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315
316
Ethnic Hair Care Amphoteric Shampoo (Cold Process) Clear . . . . . 322 Ethnic Hair Care Amphoteric Shampoo (Cold Process) Pearled . . . 322
xx Contents and Subject Index
Gel Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 Mild Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 Hair Shampoo. Dilutable Viscous Shampoo For Customer
(Dilution 1:4) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325 Viscous Consumer Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325 Transparent Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325
Hair Shampoo. Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.6
Hair Shampoo. Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327 Hair Shampoos. Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327 Hair Shampoo with Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328 Hair Shampoo with Conditioner for Everyday Use . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328 Herbal Shampoo. Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329 Highly Concentrated Hair Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329 High Foaming 2 in 1 Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330 Silicone Free 2:l Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330 Light Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331 Low pH. Protein Gel Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333 Mild Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333 Economy Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333
Moisture Balance Shampoo with Cropeptide W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335 Shampoo with Tritisol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335
Vitamin Shampoos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336 Shampoo for Dry Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336 Salon Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337 Salon Style Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338 2 in 1 High Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338 Shampoo for Permed Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339 Pearlescent Shampoo Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339 Neutralizer Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339 Sport Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340 Herbal Shampoo Against Greasy air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340 Two in One Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341 Three in One Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 Wheat and Sesame Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346 Detangling Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346 Wheat Germ Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347 No-Sting 2: 1 Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347
Lotion Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325
Hair Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326
Mild Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334
Protein Shampoos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336
Stripper Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347
Contents and Subject Index xxi
SECTION IX: SHAVING PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348 Aerosol Shaving Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349 Nonionic Aerosol Foam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349 After Shave Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350 Shave Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350 After Shave Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351 Alcohol Free After Shave Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 352 Conditioning After Shave Toner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 352 Brushless Shave Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353 Emulsion for Shaving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354 Soap Free-Nonionic Shaving Emu1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354 Hemostatic After Shave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355 Shaving Foam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355 Shaving Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 356 Shaving Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 356 Ultra Aerosol Shave Cream for Sensitive Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 357
SECTION X . SOAPS AND HAND CLEANERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358 Economy Heavy-Duty and Cleaners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359 Emulsion Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360 Waterless Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360 Emulsion Cleaner and Waterless Hand Cleaner Emulsion
Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361 Waterless and Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361 Fast Set Waterless Hand Cleaner with d-Limonene F-453 . . . . . . . 362 Clear Gel d-Limonene Waterless Hand Cleaner F-454 Hand Cleaning Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 Hand Cleaning Cream. Free of Solvents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 Hand Cleaning Cream with Solvent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 Hand Cleaners from Concentrate
Economy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364 Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364 Premium . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364 Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364
Glucopon and AS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365 Glucopon and LAS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365 Glucopon and AES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365 Glucopon and AOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365
Liquid Hand Soap Concentrate (Antimicrobial) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366 Waterless Hand Cleaner (Gel) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366 Waterless Hand Cleaner (Lotion) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366 Liquid Hand Soap Formulations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367 Lotion Hand Soap Requires No Heat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367
Industrial and Institutional Liquid Hand Soaps
xvii Contents and Subject Index
Cream Soap (Requires Heat) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367 Liquid and Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367 Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368 Liquid Synthetic Soaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 369 Liquid Soap with Aloe Vera Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370 Pearlescent Liquid Hand Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370 Low Cost Clear Cleansing Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371 Shower Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371 "Medicated" Skin Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372 Heavy-Duty Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372 Mild Lotion Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373 Liquid Hand Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373 Premium Emollient Hand Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374 Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374 Water Free Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376 Waterless Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376 Waterless Hand Cleaner No . 390 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378 Liquid Waterless Hand Cleaner No . 243 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378
SECTION XI: SUN CARE PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379 Absorbing Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380 Synergistic Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380 Absorbing Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381 Water Resistant SP4 Sunscreen Composition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381 Non-Alcoholic Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381 After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 382 Solar Tanning Oil Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 382 Aloe After Sun Lotion (40% Aloe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383 Suntan Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383 Aloe Suntan Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384 After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384 Buffered Self Tanning Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385 Cooling After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386 Suntan Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386 Daily UV Protection Lotion (Approximate SPF 18) . . . . . . . . . . . . 387 European O/W Sun Protection Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388 O/W Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388 Lip Balm with Sunscreen-A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389 Lip Balm with Sunscreen-B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389 Non-Chemical Sunscreen Lotion (Approximate SPF 15) . . . . . . . . 390 O/W After Sun Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 391 W/O After Sun Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 391 O N Cream (SPF 5) (UVA/UVB Ratio 0.91) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392 W/O Sun Protection Cream (SPF 15+) (UVA/UVB Ratio 0.75) . . . 392
Contents and Subject Index xxiii
O/W Hydroalcoholic Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 393 W/O Sunscreen (SPF 17) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 393
394 W/O Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394 O/W Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 395 O/W Emollient Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 396 O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 12) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397 O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 398 O N Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 10) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 398 W/O Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 20) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 399 O/W Vitaminized Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Lotion
Indicative SPF 8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 400 Indicative SPF 25t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 401 Indicative SPF 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 402
Solar Tanning Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 403 Solar Tanning Cream High Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404 Tanning Jelly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404 Solar Tanning Cream Super Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 405 Jojoba After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 405 Solar Tanning Lotion-A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 406 Solar Tanning Lotion-B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 406 Solar Tanning Lotion-C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407 Solar Tanning Lotion-D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407 Solar Tanning Lotion High Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408 Solar Tanning Lotion Super Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408 Solar Tanning Oil-A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409 Solar Tanning Oil-B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409 Solar Tanning Oil-C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409 Solar Tanning Oil-D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409 Solar Tanning Stick White Color . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410 Solar Tanning Stick Tan Color . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410 Sun Block Soft Cream ( O W ) Tested SPF 26 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411 Sun Filter Foam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412 After Sun Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412 Sun Protection Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 413 Sunscreen with Amihope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 415 W/O SPF20 Sunscreen with Elder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 415 Sunscreen Balm (Cold Processing) SPF 8 (DIN 67501) . . . . . . . . . 416 Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417 W/O Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418 Sunscreen Cream Water-in-Oil (Expected SPF 15t ) . . . . . . . . . . . 419 Skin Bronzing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 419 Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 420 O/W Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 420
O/W Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
xriv Contents and Subject Index
Sun Screen Cream W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 421 Sun Screen Cream W/O. Oily . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422 Self Tanning Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422 Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 423 Suntan Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424
425 425
Sunscreen Gel SPF 6 (FDA-OTC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 426 Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 427
Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429 O/W Emollient Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429 Sunscreen Lotion (o/w)
SPF 6 (DIN 67501) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 430 SPF 11 (DIN 67501) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 431 SPF 4 (DIN 67501) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432
SPF 10 (DIN 67501) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 434
waterproof . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 435
Sunscreen Gel (approx . SPF 10) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Gel (approx . SPF 12) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Sunscreen Lotion (approx . SPF 15) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428
SPF 18 (FDA-OTC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 433
Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) (cold processing) SPF 6 (FDA-OTC)
Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) SPF 30 (FDA-OTC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 436 Tested SPF 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 437 Tested SPF 16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 438 SPF 6 (FDA-OTC). waterproof . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 439 Tested SPF 11 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440
Sunscreen Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 441 Tanning Accelerator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 442 Sun Screen Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 442 Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof Sunscreen SPF 12 (tested) . . . 443 Ultra Violet Absorbing Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 444 Unbuffered Self Tanning Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 445 Waterproof Sun Protection Lotion (with 8% Titanium
Dioxide) SPF 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 446 WIO Sunscreen Lotion SPF 22 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 446 Waterproof Sunscreen
Gel vested SPF 30) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447 Spray Mist SPF 16 (Tested) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447 W/O Emulsion SPF 22 (Static) SPF 21 (Waterproof) . . . . . . . . 448 W/O Emulsion SPF 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 448
SPF3.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449 SPF3.7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449
Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion Base
Contents and Subject Index xxv
Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF21 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450 SPF15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450
SPF17 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 451 With 8% Titanium Dioxide, SPF 12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 451
Water Resistant Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452 W/O SPF 15 Sunscreen with Ajidew and Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454 Sunscreen Lip Balm with Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454 W/O SPF 15 Sunscreen with Ajidew and Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455 W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF-18 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456 W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF-17 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456
Waterproof W/O Sun Protection Lotion
SECTION XII: MISCELLANEOUS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 457 Aloe Medicated Gel With Alcohol (SDA 39C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458 Aloe Medicated Gel Without Alcohol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458 Cetylpyridinium Chloride Mouthwash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 459 Spearmint Mouthwash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 459 Clear Gel Without DEA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 460 Silicone Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 460 Clear Ringing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461 Clear Gel Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461 Cream Sachet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462 Liquid Cologne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462 Solid Cologne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462 High-Luster Toothpaste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 463 Denture Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 463 Hydrophilic O/W Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464 Emollient Anhydrous Ointment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464 W/O Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464 Washable Anhydrous Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464 Jojoba Massage Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 465 Massage Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 465 Micro-Emulsions with Aloe Vera and d-Limonene . . . . . . . . . . . . 466 Modified Petrolatum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 467 Washable Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 467 Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468 Anhydrous Ointment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468 Zinc Oxide Ointment-Anhydrous . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468 O/W Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 469 Oil-in-Water-in-Silicone Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 470 Protein-Lecithin Complex Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 470 Skin Growth Accelerator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 470 Pharmaceutical Cream Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 471
mi Contents and Subject Index
Pharmaceutical Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 471 Washable Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 472 Wound Healing Accelerator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 474 Massage Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 474 Petrolatum Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 474 W/O Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 475
SECTION XLLI: TRADE-NAMED RAW MATERIALS . . . . . . . . . . 476
SECTION XIV:SUPPLIERS' ADDRESSES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526
2 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiperspirant Stick
I n s r e d i e n t s : A Dow Corn ing 345 f l u i d
Ar lamol ISML S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e powder Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l
% w/w 45.00 10.00 15.00 25.00
5.00
B *Fragrance
* q. s. t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure:
mix t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o j u s t above s, 7 i n t and package i n a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s t i c k c o n t a i n e r s .
Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t h e y ai 11 l i q u i d (app. 72C) and
Formula CP 1085
Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiperspirant Stick
I n a r e d i e n t s : A Dow Corn ing 345 f l u i d
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e powder Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l
% w/w 45.00 25.00 25-00
5 .00
B *Fragrance
* q. s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d (app. 72C) and
Formula CP 1086
Procedure:
mix t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o j u s t above s e t p o i n t and package i n a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s t i c k c o n t a i n e r s .
Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiper
I n g r e d i e n t s : A Dow Corn ing 344 f l u i d
Ar lamol ISML S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Reheis m i c r o d r y Castorwax, hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l
% w/w 45.00 10.00 15.00 25.00 5.00
Procedure:
mix t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o j u s t above s e t p o i n t and package i n a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s t i c k c o n t a i n e r s .
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d (app. 72C) and
Formula PC 8220
Antiperspirants and Deodorants 3
Antiperspirant
I n a r e d i e n t s : V o l a t i l e s i l i c o n e , D . C . 344 f l u i d Ar lamol ISML S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e powder, M i c r o - d r y Castor wax
w 45.00 10.00 15.00 25.00
5 .00
Procedure:
and mix t h o r u g h l y . Cool t o j u s t above s e t p o i n t and package i n a n t i p e r s p r a n t s t i c k c o n t a i n e r s .
Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d (app. 72C)
I n s r e d i e n t s : V o l a t i l e s i 1 Ar lamol ISML
Antiperspirant
cone, D.C. 344 f l u i d u
48.50 10.00
A1 Z r T e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x - g l y , Rezal 36 GP, super u l t r a f i ne 20.00
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l 16.00 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 5 .00 Fragrance, Sp icy l i m e #4851-AN, I F F 0 .50
Procedure:
mix t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o j u s t above s e t p o i n t and package i n a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s t i c k c o n t a i n e r s .
Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d (app. 72C) and
Aerosol Antiperspirant
I n s r e d i e n t s : A Quaternium-18 h e c t o r i t e g e l
Ar lamol E Cyclomethicone, V o l a t i l e s i l i c o n e 7207 A r l a c e l 80
u 8.00 3.00 3.00 0.50
B Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e , Macrospher ica l 95 6.00
C Hydrocarbon p r o p e l l a n t , p r o p e l l a n t A-46 79.50
Procedure: Mix ( A ) t h o r o u g h l y w i t h medium sheer equipment. Add ( B ) a t
a s low s teady r a t e and mix t h o r o u g h l y . F i l l , vacuum c r imp and charge ae roso l u n i t s w i t h ( C ) .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
4 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Anti-Perspirant Cream
I n s r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g.m.s.
C e t y l a l c o h o l B Water, d e i o n i zed
Aluminum c h l o r h y d r o x i d e complex, 50% s o l u t i o n
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t . Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) w i t h
Anti-Perspirant Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 165
Spermacet i B G l y c e r o l
Water, d e i o n i zed C T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e D Aluminum c h l o r h y d r o x i d e complex E *Perfume
* q . s . these i n g r e d i e n t s .
5.00 5.00
50.00 40.00
18.00 5.00 5.00
5 3 . 0 0 1 - 0 0
18.00
Procedure: Heat (A) and (6) t o 80C. and add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n .
S t i r f o r 15 minu tes and add (C) s l o w l y , c o n t i n u e t o a g i t a t e and c o o l t o 40C. Add ( D ) and c o n t i n u e t o a g i t a t e u n t i l m i x t u r e i s homogenous. Add ( E ) and s t i r .
Oil/Water Antiperspirant Cream
I n q r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e p ressed
Beeswax M i n e r a l o i l A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60
B Water, d e i o n i zed C Aluminum C h l o r h y d r a t e , 50% s o l
*Perfume
* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
14.00 2.00 1 .oo 5.00 5.00
33 .00 40.00
Procedure:
w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Mix w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40 deg. C . Add (C) and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i 1 c o o l .
Heat (A) t o 85 deg. C and ( 6 ) t o 85 deg. C . Add (6) t o ( A )
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Antiperspirants and Deodorants 5
Antiperspirant Roll-On
I n n r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E
Ar lamol ISML B r i j 721 B r i j 72
B Water
C A1 umi num Z i r c o n i um T e t r a Chlorohydrex-GLY
D * P r e s e r v a t i v e *Fragrance
* q. s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
(50% aqueous s o l u t i o n )
96 w/w 3.00 4.00 1 . 5 0 2 .50
49 I 00
40.00
Procedure:
t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t about 50C and ( D ) a t about 45C. Add water a t 35C t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
Heat ( A ) t o 60C and ( 6 ) t o 65C. Add (8) t o (A) u s i n g p r o p e l l e r
Package. Formula AD-3
Roll-On Antiperspirant
I n a r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol ISML
Ar lamol E B r i j 721 B r i j 72
B Water, d e i o n i z e d
C Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e (50% s o l u t i o n ) , Wickenol 303
D Germaben I1
* q . s . these i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure:
% w/w 3.00 3 . 0 0 1 .50 2.50
49.00
40 .00
1 .oo
Heat ( A ) t o 60C and ( 6 ) t o 6%. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) u s i n g p r o p e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t about 50C and ( D ) a t about 45C. Add water a t 35C t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o evaporat i on. Package . SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Formula t ions
6 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Antiperspirant Stick
Ingredients: %W/WA Brij 721 2.30
Arlamol E 11.50Isopropyl myristate & stearalkoniurn hectorite 5.70Ozokerite wax 22.40Myristyl alcohol 17.20
B Aluminum-Zirconium trichlorohydrate 23.00
C Cyclomethicone 17.90
*q.s. these ingredients.
Procedure:Heat (A) to 65 deg. C and (B) to 68 deg. C. Add (B) to (A)
with agitation and immediately add (C). Stir to 50 deg. C andpour into molds.
Oil-In-Water Antiperspirant Lotion
Ingredients: %W/WA Cetyl alcohol 0.50
Arlamol E 3.00Brij 72 2.00Brij 721 1.00
B Water 58.50*Preservative
C Aluminum chlorhydroxide, 50% aqueous solution 35.00
*q.s. these ingredients.
Procedure:Heat (A) to 85 deg. C and (B) to 85 deg. C. Add (B) to (A)
while stirring. Mix while cooling to 40 deg. C. Add (C) andcontinue mixing until cool.
Formula AD-5
Anti-Perspirant Lotion
Ingredients: %W/WA Arlacel 165, acid stable g.m.s. 15.00
Water, deionized 45.00
B Alumunum chlorhydroxide complex, 50% solution 40.00
Procedure:Heat (A) to 7OC. Heat (B) to 72C. Add (B) to (A) with rapid
agitation. Cool to room temperature with stirring.SOURCE: ICI Surfactants: Suggested Formulations
Antiperspirants and Deodorants 7
Deodorant
A . I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s S o f t i s a n 645 Hostaphat KL 340 N C e t y l a l c o h o l Raluben TL A1 umi num a c e t a t e
B. Ka r ion F H o s t a c e r i n g e l 1%* Benzyl a l c o h o l Water
Wt% 6 . 0 5 . 0 5 . 0 2.0 0 . 5 0 . 5
5 . 0 12.0
1 . o t o 100.0
C. Perfume qs
Prepara t i on :
b rough t t o t h e same tempera ture and added s l o w l y t o A . w i t h s t i r r i n g . C . i s added a t approx. 30C.
The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e heated t o 75-BOC. Those o f B . a r e
*P repara t i on o f t h e Hos tace r in g e l : H o s t a c e r i n PN 73 1 .0% Water t o 100.0%
The H o s t a c e r i n i s mixed w i t h water u n t i l homogeneous and t h e m i x t u r e s t i r r e d u n t i l t h e g e l i s c l e a r .
A . M i g l y o l 812 Dynasan 114 Dynasan 110 I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s Beeswax
B. Perfume Ac t i ve i ng r ed i e n t
@ 3 0 . 0 20 .0 18 .5 1o;o 2 0 . 0
P r e p a r a t i on : The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e me l ted a t 75C and a t about 40C
perfume i s added, t h e mix i s homogenised and c a s t i n t o moulds.
SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Formulas
Deodorant Stick
8 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
M a t e r i a l s : 1 . Cyclomethicone 2 . S t e a r y l A l coho l 3 . A r l a c e l 165 4. T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 3328 5 . Bentone Gel VS-5 Rheo log ica l A d d i t i v e 6 . Aluminum Ch lo rohyd ra te (M ic ron ized ) 7 . T a l c 8 . Fragrance
% bv Weight 39.7 22 .0
2 . 0 0 . 2
10 .0 2 5 . 0
1 . o 0 . 1
Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s A . Heat t h e Cyclomethicone t o 65C. B . W i th s t i r r i n g , s l o w l y add i n g r e d i e n t 2, m a i n t a i n i n g t h e temp-
e r a t u r e a t 65C t h r u s t e p E. C . When a l l o f i n g r e d i e n t 2 i s me l ted , add i n g r e d i e n t s 3 and
4 . Mix f o r 15 m inu tes . D . Add Bentone Gel VS-5 Rheo log ica l A d d i t i v e and mix f o r 30
m inu tes . E . Add i n g r e d i e n t s 6 and 7 , m ix f o r 30 m inu tes . F. A l l o w t h e ba tch t o coo l t o 55C, add Fragrance, mix f o r 5
minutes and pour i n t o s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r s . Formula TS-289
M a t e r i a l s : 1 . Bentone Gel VS-5 Rheo log ica l A d d i t i v e 2 . Cyclomethicone 3 . SDA A lcoho l 40 4 . I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e 5. Aluminum Ch lo rohyd ra te 6 . Fragrance
% bv Wei q h t 15 .0 54.0
3 . 0 2 . 0
25.0 1 . o
Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s : A . Combine t h e Bentone Gel VS-5 w i t h i n g r e d i e n t s 2 and 3 u s i n g
B . Add i n g r e d i e n t 4 , t h e n i n g r e d i e n t 5 , w i t h cons tan t a g i t a t i o n .
C . Add i n g r e d i e n t 6 . Formula TS-288
SOURCE: Rheox, I n c , : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n . M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m .
Mix u n t i l t h e powder i s u n i f o r m l y d i s t r i b u t e d .
Dry Antiperspirant Stick
Quick Drying Roll-On Antiperspirant
Antiperspirants and Deodorants 9
Dry Roll-On Antiperspirant
M a t e r i a l s : 1 . Bentone Gel I P M r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 2 . SDA 40 3. I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e 4 . Cyc lometh icone 5 . A1 umi num Ch lo rohyd ra te 6 . Fragrance
% by Weiqht 15 .0
3 . 0 2 . 0
54 .0 25.0
1 . o
Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Combine t h e Bentone Gel IPM a d d i t i v e w i t h i n g r e d i e n t s 2 , 3
and o n e - h a l f o f i n g r e d i e n t 4 i n a m i x i n g k e t t l e . M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t h e rema in ing p o r t i o n o f i n g r e d i e n t 4, c o n t i n u e m i x i ng .
i s u n i f o r m l y d i s t r i b u t e d . 2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t 5 w i t h a g i t a t i o n , s t i r r i n g until t h e powder
3 . Add t h e f rag rance , m ix , f i l l u n i t s . Formula TS-237
Talc Spray Antiperspirant
M a t e r i a1 s : 1 . Bentone Gel IPM r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 2 . SDA 40 3 . I s o p r o p y l Myr i s t a t e 4 . Cyclometh icone 5 . Aluminum Ch lo rohyd ra te 6 . T a l c 7 . Fragrance 8 . P r o p e l l a n t A-46
% by Wei q h t 8 . 0 2 . 0 1 . 5 5 . 0 6 . 0 2 . 0 0 . 5
75.00
Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s 1 th rough 4 and t h o r o u g h l y mix u s i n g
2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s 5 and 6 a t a s low r a t e and mix i n t h o r o u g h l y . 3 , Add f r a g r a n c e and m i x . 4. F i l l , vacuum c r i m p and gas ae roso l u n i t s . Formula TS-245
SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
medium shear equipment.
IO Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
General Purpose Stick Formulation-1
I n g r e d i e n t s ; A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A A c e t y l a t e d Lanol i n A l coho l * O z o k e r i t e (170D)** M i n e r a l O i l ( 7 0 s s ) * * * Span 60
Cloud P o i n t , C : 80
General Purpose Stick Formulation-2
I n a r e d i e n t s : A-C Po lye thye lene 617A A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n A l c o h o l * O z o k e r i t e (170D)** M i n e r a l O i l (70 s s ) * * * Span 60
Cloud P o i n t , C : 76
wt% 8
16 16 55
5
E% 7
14 14 60
5
Procedure:
p o i n t u n t i l s o l u t i o n t u r n s c l e a r . Around 60-70C, add perfume, aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Deaerate and package.
Manu fac tu re rs :
Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n 2-5C above i t s c l o u d
* Malmstrom Chemical, A c e t o l , o r Amerchol, Ace tu lan ** Ross Wax o r e q u i v a l e n t *** W i t c o Chemical , Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 , o r equi Val en t
Stick Antiperspirant
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . A-C 400 2 . I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e 3 . Dow Corn ing S i 1 i c o n e 344 4. S t e a r y l A l coho l 5 . A1 umi num Chl o rohyd ra te 6 . Perfume
Par t s , W t . 15 50 15 20 15
Q.S
Procedure:
S t i r u n t i l wax b l e n d i s u n i f o r m . Add 5 and s t i r i n . Cool m i x t u r e down t o 55C and add Perfume.
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Weigh 1-4 and heat u n t i l A-C 400 has d i s s o l v e d o r me l ted .
Antiperspirants and Deodorants 11
Roll-On Antiperspirant
T h i s low v i s c o s i t y emuls ion i s s t a b i l i z e d w i t h Veegum HV which a l s o p r o v i d e s moderate t h i c k e n i n g and e x c e l l e n t , d r y a f t e r - f e e l . The Aluminum/Zirconium Complex has h i g h e r a n t i - p e r s p i r a n t e f f i c a c y than a1 umi num c h l o r o h y d r a t e .
I n a r e d i e n t : A Veegum HV, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e
Dei on i zed Water
% bv W t . 1 . o o
29.00
B G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-I00 S t e a r a t e ( 2 ) 8 . 0 0
C Aluminum Z i r con ium Te t rach lo rohyd rex GLY, 30% S o l n . ( 3 ) 3 3 . 0 0 Aluminum C h l o r i d e , 32 Baume So ln . 5 . 5 0 Aluminum Ch lo rhyd ra te , 50% So ln . ( 4 ) 1 6 . 5 0
D Cyclomethicone ( 5 ) 7 .00
E Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .
( 2 ) A r l a c e l 165 ( 3 ) Rezal 36G ( 4 ) C h l o r h y d r o l , 50% S o l u t i o n ( 5 ) Rhodors i l 700 45V2
P r e p a r a t i o n :
shear u n t i l smooth, u n i f o r m and comp le te l y f r e e o f und ispersed p a r t i c l e s . I n another c o n t a i n e r , heat B t o 75C. Heat C t o 55C i n a t h i r d c o n t a i n e r . Add B t o A w i t h s low m i x i n g and coo l t o 50C. Add C t o A&B. Mix a t s low speed u n t i l t h e tempera ture reaches 2%. Add D and homogenize f o r 5 m inu tes . A d d E . M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m and package.
Cons is tency :
800 cps .
Suggested Packaging: Rol l -On Con ta ine rs
Comments: T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s des igned t o se rve as a gu ide f o r
t h e development o f new p roduc ts o r improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.
SOURCE: R.T. V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c , : Formula No. 443
Add Veegum HV t o water a t 75C and m ix w i t h maximum a v a i l a b l e
V i s c o s i t y measured a f t e r 30 days a t room tempera ture i s 600-
I2 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Roll-On Antiperspirant
I n a r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E
B r i j 721 B r i j 72
A1 1 a n t i on B Water, d e i o n i z e d
C Aluminum Z i rcon ium T e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x Gly , Wickenol 386
D *Perfume and P r e s e r v a t i v e
*q . s I t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
4 . 0 0 0.75 3.25
34.55 0.20
57.25
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and (5) t o 65C. Add ( 8 ) t o (A) u s i n g prop-
e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t about 50C and (0) a t about 45C. Add water a t 35C t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Package,
Quick Dry Roll-On Lotion
I n a r e d i e n t s : A Cyc lometh icone
B r i j 72 B r i j 721
B Water, de4 o n i zed C Aluminum c h l o r h y d r a t e , 50% aqueous s o l u t i o n D *Perfume
* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
%m 1 0 . 0 0 2.00 0 .70
52.30 35.00
Procedure:
Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g and s l o w l y add t h e remainder o f i n g r e d i e n t s ,
Heat ( A ) t o 70C and (B) to 72C. Add (B) to (A) w i t h a g i t a t i o n .
Clear Roll-On A.P. Lotion
I n u r e d i e n t s : A E t h y l a l c o h o l
B Ar lamol E Hydroxypropyl c e l l u lose , K1 u c e l GF
C Aluminum chlorhydroxide-propylene g l y c o l complex 20
Procedure: Mix ( A ) t h o r o u g h l y u s i n g h i g h shear i f necessary. Add A r
E and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. Add (C) and s t i r u n t i l c l e a r .
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
%m 69.00
1 .oo 10 00
00
amo 1
Antiperspirants and Deodorants 13
Spray Powder Anti-Perspirant
I n q r e d i e n t s : ( 1 ) E thano l (SD 40) ( 2 ) Bentone Gel I P M (3 ) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( 4 ) Cyclomethicone ( 5 ) Aluminum Ch lo rohyd ra te ( 6 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC ( 7 ) Fragrance ( 8 ) Propel l a n t A46
% by Weight 2 . 0 8 . 0 1 .5 5 .0 6 . 0 2 . 0 0 .5
7 5 . 0
Procedure:
minu tes . A t h i g h speed, add ( 3 ) , ( 4 ) , ( 6 ) , and ( 7 ) . M ix w i t h ( 8 ) and f i l l .
each p roduc t used.
f lammable i n g r e d i e n t s .
SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on
Add (1 ) t o ( 2 ) and mix f o r 5 m inu tes . Add ( 5 ) and mix f o r 5
Fo l l ow recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f
Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s shou ld be used when h a n d l i n g
Deodorant Stick
S t e a r i c A c i d E thano l Propy l ene G1 y c o l I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e Phosphol i p i d PTC Sodi um Hydrox i de 50%
% bv Weight 8 . 0 0
74.13 10.00
5 . 0 0 0.50 2 .37
Procedure:
and a g i t a t e t o 65-70C, t h e n s l o w l y n e u t r a l i z e t h e s t e a r i c a c i d w i t h t h e sodium hyd rox ide 50% and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Cool s l i g h t l y t o 70C. Add f r a g r a n c e and c o l o r , and package.
P r o p e r t i es :
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , Inc. : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on
B lend i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r except t h e sodium hyd rox ide . Heat
Phys i ca l Appearance: T rans lucen t S o l i d
14 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Stick Formulation
1 . A-C Copolymer 400 15 2 . I s o p r o p y l - Myr i s t a t e 50 3 . Dow 344 F l u i d 15 4 . S t e a r y l A l coho l 20 Procedure:
Weigh a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and hea t w i t h a g i t a t i o n . The c l o u d p o i n t o f t h i s b l e n d i s 72C. Above t h e c l o u d , t h e p o l y e t h y l e n e w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b lend . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g tempera ture i s used, s o l v a t i o n i s much f a s t e r . Care must be taken, however, n o t t o v o l a t i l i z e t h e Dow 344 F l u i d . When a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e d i s s o l v e d , add 15% aluminum c h l o r h y d r a t e and q u i c k c o o l , w i t h a g i t a t i o n , t o 45C. Pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r and a l l o w t o coo l f u r t h e r . Ref : 5189-12-2
Stick Formulation
A-C 400 2-Ethy l Hexyl S t e a r a t e M y r i s t y l M y r i s t a t e D o w Corn ing C344 C e t y l A1 coho1 Span 65
Stick Formulation
A-C 400 2-Ethy l Hexyl S t e a r a t e Myr i s t y l M y r i s t a t e D o w Corn ing C344 G l y c e r o l Mono S t e a r a t e C e t y l A l coho l Span 65
R762D I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e Dow Corn ing 344 S t e a r y l A l coho l ( A l f o l
Procedure:
Stick Formulation
18)
W B 20 43 18 16
2 .5 0 . 5
W* 20 40 18 16
3 2 .5 0 . 5
W B 15 45 15 25
The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e mixed and heated u n t i l t hey fo rm a c l e a r s o l u t i o n . Cloud p o i n t o f t h i s s t i c k i s 76C. I t can be poured a t 65C. A n t i p e r s p i r a n t S t i c k :
aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e ( p a r t i c l e s i z e 12) and mix i n h o t . Perfume i s added j u s t p r i o r t o p o u r i n g . Deodorant S t i c k :
1% j u s t p r i o r t o p o u r i n g . SOURCE: A1 1 i ed S i gna l Inc . : Suggested Formul a t i ons
For a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s t i c k t o t h i s base f o r m u l a t i o n add 25%
For deodorant s t i c k t o t h i s base f o r m u l a t i o n , add deodorant
16 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Baby Bath
A. M a r l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 105 Ampholyt JB 130 Mar lamid M 1218 Water
B. Camomile Spec ia l Avocado S p e c i a l Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e Magnesium s u l p h a t e x 7H20
%
20 .0 1 2 . 0
2 . 0 t o 100.0
0 . 5 1 . o
qs qs qs
22 .o
P r e p a r a t i o n : The components under A . a r e added t o g e t h e r i n sequence,
warmed and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The components i n B . a r e added t o A. a t approx. 30C. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .
Baby Bath
Mar l i n a t 242/28 Ampholyt JB 130 M a r l i n a t SL 3/40 D i o n i l O C / K L i me B1 ossom Speci a1 Camomi l e Speci a1 Perfume Co lou r P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
% 21 .o 1 7 . 0 8 . 0 3 .0 0 . 5 0 . 5
qs qs qs
t o 100.0
P r e p a r a t i o n :
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmet ics:
The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Baby Products 17
Baby Lotion Mousse
Phase A : I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS Pol awax Crodacol S-95 Crodamol PMP Crodamol PTC Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 P r o t o p e t 1 s P e t r o l a t u m Dimeth icone 35 c s ( 2 0 0 f l )
Phase 6 : Water, d e i o n i z e d G1 y c e r i ne Germaben I 1
% ( W / W ) 1 .17 1 . o o 0 .33 1 .OO 0 .67 1 - 0 0 2 . 0 0 0 . 5 0
83.33 8 .00 1 . o o
Procedure:
S l o w l y add "B" t o " A " w i t h m i x i n g . Coo l . F i l l i n t o ae roso l c o n t a i n e r s and add p r o p e l l a n t (pH 5 . 7 ) .
Combine " A " and hea t t o 75C. Combine "5" and hea t t o 75C.
F i l l r a t i o : Concen t ra te 95%, P r o p e l l a n t A31 5%.
Baby Oil
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . C a r n a t i o n , L i g h t M i n e r a l O i 1 NF 2 . R i t a l a n 3 . R i t a c e t y l 4 . Propy lparaben 5 . Perfume
w Q S I O O . 00
5 . 0 0 2 . 5 0 0 . 1 0 QS
M a n u f a c t u r i n g Procedure: Weigh and add a l l t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a c o n t a i n e r and b e g i n
s t i r r i n g w h i l e warming, u n t i l a l l i n g r e d i e n t s which a r e s o l i d s a t ambient temperatures have me l ted ( a p p r o x i m a t e l y 55C). S t i r u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous and b e g i n c o o l i n g . S t i r c o n t i n u o u s l y , a l l o w t o remain u n d i s t u r b e d f o r 2 4 hours , and f i l t e r .
Baby Oil
I n a r e d i e n t s : 1 . Carna t ion , L i g h t M i n e r a l O i 1 NF 2 . R i t a l a n " C " 3 . Perfume 4 . Propylparaben
w Q S l O O . 00
1 . o o OS
0 .10
Manu fac tu r ing Procedure:
3 and 4 and mix u n t i l a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n o c c u r s . F i l t e r , i f necessary, and package f i l l i n t o s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r s . SOURCE: Wi t co Corp . : Pet ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: SuggeOted
Weigh and add #1 i n t o a c o n t a i n e r and b e g i n s t i r r i n g . Add #2,
Fo rmu la t i ons
18 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Baby Shampoo
T h i s baby shampoo f e a t u r e s Crovol A-70 and C r o s u l t a i n e C-50, n a t u r a l d e r i v e d s u r f a c t a n t s wh ich g i v e t h i s fo rmu la i t s m i ldness . Us ing a f r a g r a n c e w i t h a "baby - f resh f f sme l l adds t o i t s appeal .
I n q r e d i e n t s : % P a r t A : SLES ( 3 mole) 2 0 . 0 C r o s u l t a i n e C-50 (Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e ) 1 2 . 0 De ion ized Water 51.3
P a r t B: Crovol A-70 (PEG-60 Almond G l y c e r i d e s ) 15.0 C r o t h i x * (PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e ) 0 . 5
P a r t C: Propy lene G l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) Methy l
Paraben (and) P ropy l Paraben** 1 . o F l o r a s y n t h A65697 (Powder Type) 0 . 2
Procedure: Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Combine t h e
i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 65C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C i n d i v i d - u a l l y w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH i f needed w i t h a 10% HC1 aqueous s o l u t i on. Cool w i t h m i x i ng t o des i r e d f i 11 tempera ture .
pH: 7.0+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y : 5,OOOcps+-lO% (@25C) **Germaben I 1 N . A . T . C . Approved *The use o f C r o t h i x i n cosmet ic and o t h e r f o r m u l a t i o n s i s
covered under U.S. Pa ten t # 5 , 1 9 2 , 4 6 2 .
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Fo rmu la t l on SH-86
Baby Shampoo
Mackadet BSC (Baby Shampoo Concent ra te ) Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) C i t r i c A c i d t o pH = 6 .5 -7 .0 Sodium C h l o r i d e qs t o v i s c o s i t y = 2000 cps Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o
Wei a h t ,% 20 .0
q . s .
100.0
Procedure: 1. Add Macks ta t BSC to water and heat t o 40 degrees C. 2 . Add Macks ta t DM. 3. A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d and v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . 4. Add dye, f r a g r a n c e and c o o l t o room tempera ture .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on
Baby Products 19
Baby Shampoo
A . M a r l i n a t CM 105 Mar l i n a t 243/28 Amphol y t JA 140 Glucamate DOE 120 Water
0 . Lime-blossom Spec ia l Camomi l e Speci a1 Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e
Wt% 5 5 . 0 14.0
7 . 0 qs
t o 100 .0
P r e p a r a t i o n : The c o n s t i t u e n t s of A . a r e b rough t t o g e t h e r i n sequence and
s t i r r e d w h i l e warm u n t i l homogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s o f B. a r e added t o A . a t approx. 3 0 C . The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 .5 -6 .6 .
Baby Shampoo
Mar l i n a t 242/28 Amphol yt JA 140 Ampholyt J B 130 S o f t i g e n 767 Lamepon S Camomi 1 e Speci a1 L i me-bl ossom Speci a1 P r e s e r v a t i v e A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d Water
Wt% 29 .0
7 . 5 10 .0
3 .0 5 . 0 1 . o 1 . o qs q s
t o 100.0
P r e p a r a t i o n : The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
u n t i l homogeneous. The p H i s a d j u s t e d t o 5.5-6.5.
SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Formulas
20 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Baby Shampoo
I n q r e d i e n t s : A Tween 20
Cocoamphodiacetate Sodi um l a u r y l s u l f a t e Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e PEG-1 50 d i s t e a r a t e Propy lene g l y c o l Water
B * C i t r i c a c i d
*q . s . these i ngred i e n t s
%w/w 6 . 0 0 6 . 0 0 3.00 3 .00 4 . 0 0 3 .00
7 5 . 0 0
Procedure:
A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 t o 5 . 5 w i t h ( B ) . M ix (A) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g and hea t u n t i l homogeneous.
Baby Shampoo
I n a r e d i e n t s : A G-4280
Sodi urn t r i deceth s u l f a t e Laurarnphodi a c e t a t e Cocamidopropyl hydroxysu l t a i ne Sodi urn 1 aure th-13 ca rboxy l a t e Water * P r e s e r v a t i v e
B PEG-150 d i s t e a r a t e
C * C i t r i c a c i d
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
%w/w 2 0 . 0 0 1 2 . 0 0
5 . 0 0 2.50 2 . 0 0
5 3 . 5 0
5.00
Procedure:
Heat t o around 60C and add ( B ) and c o n t i n u i n g s t i r r i n g . When c l e a r , c o o l and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 8 w i t h ( C ) .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
M ix ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g and hea t u n t i l homogeneous.
Baby Products 21
Baby Shampoos
B 42/6: Ze teso l MS Amphotensid GB 2009 Pur ton SFD Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e ,
p r e s e r v a t i v e
0 42/7: Ze teso l MS Zeteso l 2056 Pur ton CFD Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e
Baby Foam Baths
B 70/139: Ze teso l MS Pur ton SFD Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e ,
p r e s e r v a t i v e
25.0% 9 .0% 2.0%
q . s . t o make 100.0%
27.0% 7.0% 2 .0% 0 .3% 2.0%
9 , s . t o make 100.0%
43.0% 1 .O%
9 , s . to make 100.0%
B 70/129: E x t r a k t 52 24.0% Pur ton SFD 1.0% H e r b a l i q u i d K a m i l l e Spez ia l 5 .0% Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . t o make 100.0%
Adjustment t o approx. pH 7 by l a c t i c a c i d o r c i t r i c a c i d
0 70/101 : Amphotensid 9 M 40 I 0% S e t a c i n 103 Spez ia l 20 0 0% Pur ton CFD 2.0% M u l s i f a n RT 203/80 3.0% Oxypon 2145 1.0% Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e q : s . t o make 100.0%
SOURCE: Zschimmmer & Schwarz GmbH & C o . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Adjustment t o pH 6 .5-7 .0 by l a c t i c o r c i t r i c a c i d
22 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Tear Free Baby Bath
Wei a h t ,% Mackam 2C (Cocoamvhodiacetate) 35 .0 Mackol 70NS (Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e ) 5.5 Mackam 35HP (Cocamidopropyl Be ta ine ) 6 .0 Mackanate DC-30 (D isod ium Dimethicone Copo lyo l
Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) 4 .0 Mackam CET ( C e t y l Be ta ine ) 1 . 5 Paragon (DMDM Hydanto in (and) Methy l Paraben) 0 . 7 C i t r i c A c i d 9,s. t o pH 5.0-5.5 Water q . s . t o 100.0 Procedure: 1 . B lend components and heat t o 50C. 2 . When p roduc t i s c l e a r a d j u s t pH t o 5 .0 -5 .5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d
pH: 5 .3 V i s c o s i t y (cps, 25C): 500 cps Formula BN-l27C
Baby Wipes
Propy lene G1 y c o l Mackam 2C (Cocoamphodiacetate) Paragon (DMDM Hydanto in (and) Methy l Paraben) C i t r i c A c i d q . s . t o F h g r a n c e Water q . s . t o Procedure: 1 . B lend components u n t i l c l e a r . 2. A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .
m i l d t o s k i n and eyes. T h i s s o l u t i o n i s combined w i t h baby wipe t i s s u e s . I t i s v e r y
Mild Children's Bubble Bath
Mackanate EL (Disodium Laure th S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) Mackanate CP (Di sod i um Cocami do M I P A Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e (30%) Na t roso l 250HHR Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) Water, Fragrance, Dye qs t o Procedure: 1 . D ispe rse N a t r o s o l 250HHR i n c o l d wa te r . 2. B lend u n t i l comp le te l y d i spes rsed . 3 . Heat t o 40 degrees C . and add rema in ing components. 4. B lend u n t i l c l e a r . 5 . Cool and f i l l .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary
Wei a h t ,% 4 .0 2.0 q . s .
pH=6.0 q . s .
100.0
Wei ah t ,% 10.0 10.0 9 . 0 1 .o qs
100.0
24 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Aerosol Bath Oil
I n s r e d i e n t s : A O l e y l a l c o h o l
A t l a s G-1795 A l c o h o l , SDA No. 40 Perfume
w 15.00 1 .oo
52.00 2.00
B Propel 1 a n t 12/114 (57/43) 30.00
Procedure:
Cool t o 70C and add ( C ) . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m and pour w h i l e s t i l l f l u i d .
Heat ( A ) and (B) t o 9OC. Add (B) t o (A) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g .
Dispersible Bath Oil
I n a r e d i e n t s : M i n e r a l o i 1, 81 andol A c t i v e #4 B r i j 93 Foam s t a b i l i z e r , N i n o l AA-62 E x t r a Perfume
6 0 . 0 0 20.00 13.00
2.00 5 . 0 0
Procedure:
F i 1 t e r i f necessary. M i x a l l i n g r e d i e n t s . Use s l i g h t heat i f necessary and s t i r .
Bath Gel
I n n r e d i e n t s :
NaCl G-9600
*Co lor Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
Mix w e l l a t room tempera ture . Procedure:
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
w 35.00
0.80
0.20 0 .10
63.90
Bath and Shower Products 25
Bath Gelee with Natural Lipid Protein
Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e (60%) Mackamide CS (Cocamide DEA)
Wei a h t .% 20.0 20.0
Mackanate CP (Disodium Cocamido M I P A Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) 2 0 . 0 Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n )
( N a t u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 4 . 0 Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0
Procedure: 1 . Add Mackamide CS t o sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e and b l e n d . 2 . Add rema in ing components and heat t o 45 degrees C . 3 . Blend u n t i l homogenous and a d j u s t pH t o 6 .5 -7 .0 w i t h
c i t r i c a c i d . 4 . Cool and f i l l .
Bath Gelee
Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e (60%) Mackamide C (Cocamide DEA) Mackanate EL ( D i sodi um Laure th Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) L a c t i c A c i d t o pH = 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 Macksta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) Dye, Fragrance, qs t o
Procedure: 1 . Add components i n o r d e r and heat t o 45 degrees C . 2 . 61 end u n t i 1 homogeneous. 3 . A d j u s t pH w i t h l a c t i c a c i d . 4 . Add f rag rance and coo l t o room tempera ture .
Emollient Bath Gelee
Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e (60%) Mackamide LLM (Lauramide DEA)
Weiqht ,% 34.6 20.0 4 5 . 0
qs 100.0
Wei a h t .% 20 .0 20.0
Mackanate EL ( D i sodi um Laure th Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) 20 .0 Mackanate WGD (Disodium Wheatgermamido PEG-2
Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) 1 0 . 0 Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0
Procedure: 1 . Add Mackamide LLM t o sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e . 2. Add t h e rema in ing components and heat t o 45 degrees C . 3 . 81 end u n t i 1 homogeneous. 4 . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 5 . Cool and f i l l .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary
26 Cosmetic and To i l e0 Formulations
Bath Milk
A . I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s M i g l y o l 812 M i g l y o l 840 Mar lophor T10 Na S a l t
6 . G l y c e r o l Water
C . Ex t rapon Hamamelis Spec. Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e
5 . 0 1 5 . 0 1 0 . 0
8 . 0
3 . 0 t o 1 0 0 . 0
1 . o qs qs
P r e p a r a t i o n :
heated t o t h e same tempera ture and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . C . i s added a t 30C.
The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and heated t o 75-8OC. 6 . i s
Washing Lotion
Mar l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 105 D i o n i l OC/K Marlamid PG 20 Perfume Co lour P r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl Water
%
6 . 0 3.0 3.0
qs qs qs qs
t o 100.0
22 .o
P r e p a r a t i o n :
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 .5 -6 .5 .
SOURCE: Huls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics:
The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Bath and Shower Products 27
Bath Oil, De Luxe with Plant Oils
A . M i g l y o l 812 M i g l y o l 840 S o f t i g e n 767 S o f t i s a n 645 Soya bean o i l Hostaphat KL 340 N Co lour A n t i o x i d a n t s Perfume
V i s c o s i t y : ve ry l ow-v i scous
% 15.6 15.0 10.0 10.0 37.0 13.0
qs q s qs
P r e p a r a t i o n :
tempera ture u n t i l homogeneous. A l l t h e components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r and s t i r r e d a t room
Foam Bath with Almond Oil
A . Marlowet OA 4/1 I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e Almond o i l
G l y c e r o l DAB 9 Mar lamid DF 1218 Water
C . Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e
B . M a r l i n a t 242/70
% 30.6 2 2 . 0 8.0 25.0 1 0 , o 3.0
t o 100.0 qs as
P r e p a r a t i on :
Add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e a t 30C. Heat A . and B. t o 70-75C. Add B . s l o w l y t o A . w i t h s t i r r i n g .
Foam Bath Oil
A . Mar lowet R 11/K P i ne-need1 e o i 1
B. M a r l i n a t 242/70 L i p o x o l 600 MED Water
C. P r e s e r v a t i v e
s/, 30.0 30.0 1 1 . o 13.0
t o 100.0 qs
P r e p a r a t i o n :
Add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e a t 30C.
SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics:
Heat A . and B . t o 70-75C. Add B. s l o w l y t o A . w i t h s t i r r i n g .
Suggeted Fo rmu la t i ons
28 Cosmetic and Toileoy Formulations
Bubble Bath & Bath Oil
I n a r e d i e n t s : A Fragrance 2991 H, I F F I n c .
Tween 20 Foaming agent , Lanthanol LAL
w 4.40
22.20 10.00
B Water, d e i o n i zed 62.20
C Foam s t a b i l i z e r , N i n o l AA-62 E x t r a P r e s e r v a t i v e
1 - 0 0 0.20
Procedure: Add (B) t o ( A ) w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) w i t h s t i r r i n g
w i t h s l i g h t h e a t t o f a c i l i t a t e s o l u t i o n when necessary. A d j u s t t h e f i n a l p r o d u c t t o a pH o f l e s s t h a n 7.0 w i t h an a c i d such as c i t r i c . F i l t e r i f necessary.
Bubble Bath
I n s r e d i e n t s :
NaCl S u l f o s u c c i n a t e Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e *Co lor Water
G-9600 w
20.00 0.90 7.00 0 . 2 0 0.10
71.80
*q. s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
Mix w e l l a t room tempera ture . Procedure:
Bubble Bath
I n s r e d i e n t s : w A T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e l a u r y l s u l f a t e , Maprpfox TLS-500 20 IO0
Coconut f a t t y a c i d d ie thano lamide, Super Amide L-9 7.50
B Perfume 5.00
C Water, d e i o n i z e d Propylene g l y c o l
57.50 5.00
Procedure:
u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add (C) and s t i r .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Warm (A) and mix u n t i l c l e a r . Cool and add perfume, s t i r r i n g
Bath and Shower Products 29
Clear Gel T h i s c l e a r g e l i s a c l a s s i c f o r m u l a t h a t i s based on Volpo
and Crodafos s u r f a c t a n t s . It e x h i b i t s t h e " r i n g i n g g e l " phenom- enon, c h a r a c t e r i s t i c o f meny c l e a r m ic roemu ls ions . T h i s e f f e c t i s achieved by a system o f w a t e r , o i l and s u r f a c t a n t f o r m u l a t e d i n a r a t i o t h a t forms a r i g i d m i c e l l e s t r u c t u r e . The Volpos and Crodafoses a r e used as c o - e m u l s i f i e r s . (Fo r l a b o r a t o r y p repara - t i o n , a minimum b a t c h s i z e o f 400 grams i s recommended because t h e y c o o l s lower , a l l o w i n g more t i m e b e f o r e t h e s e t p o i n t t empera tu re i s reached) . I n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Dei o n i zed wa te r 54 .0 Propylene G l y c o l 1 2 . 0 P a r t B: Crodafos N3 N e u t r a l (DEA O le th -3 Phosphate) 2 . 0 Crodafos N10 N e u t r a l (DEA Oleth-10 Phosphate) 4 . 0 Volpo 5 ( O l e t h - 5 ) 4 . 0 Volpo 3 (O le th -3 ) 7 . 0 M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) 17 .0 Procedure:
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and hea t t o 90-95C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l temp- e r a t u r e (above s e t p o i n t ) . Set p o i n t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 85C.
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and hea t t o 90-95C.
N.A.T.C. Approved Formula CG-8R
T h i s f o r m u l a uses an o p t i m i z e d comb ina t ion o f C r o s u l t a i n e High Foaming Shower Gel
C-50, I n c r o d e t TD-7C and SLES ( 3 mole) t o produce a c l e a r , h i g h foaming, l ow c o l o r , and low odor b a t h and shower g e l . C r o t h i x i s used t o p r o v i d e t h e body and v i s c o s i t y seen i n t h e fo rmu la , and Crovo l A-70 i s used t o s o l u b i l i z e t h e f r a g r a n c e and m a i n t a i n t h e c l a r i t y o f t h e p r o d u c t . I n q r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : SLES ( 3 mole) 2 0 . 0 I n c r o d e t TD-7C ( T r i d e c e t h - 7 C a r b o x y l i c A c i d ) 7 . 0 C r o s u l t a i n e C-50 (Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e ) 2 0 . 0 D i sod i um EDTA 0 .1 De ion ized water 48 .3 Germaben I 1 1 . o P a r t B: C r o t h i x (PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h i t y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e ) 1 . o C rovo l A-70 (PEG-60 Almond G l y c e r i d e s ) 2 . 0 BHT 0 . 1 P a r t C : Perfume (BBA 860753) 0 . 5 Procedure:
o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and hea t t o 65-7OC. Con t inue m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add P a r t C t o P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g . When c l e a r , add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH w i t h 10% NaOH s o l u t i o n .
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Combine i ngred i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i ng. Combi ne i n g r e d i e n t s
Formula BP-41
30 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Foam Baths, Clear
0 70/136: Ze teso l NL Pur ton SFD Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e ,
B 70/123: Ze teso l 2056 Pur ton CFD Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e ,
p r e s e r v a t i v e
p r e s e r v a t i v e
46.0% 2.0%
q . s t o make 100.0%
27.0% 2.0%
q . s . t o make 100.0%
B 70/117: Ze teso l 856T 35 0% S e t a c i n 103 Spez ia l 5.0% Oxypon 2145 2.0% Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e ,
p r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . t o make 100.0%
0 70/148: Ze teso l 2056 Oxypon 288 Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e
40.0% 2.0% 1 .5%
q . s . t o make 100.0%
B 70/161: Ze teso l 856 T 35.0% Oxypon 328 4.5% Jo joba o i l 0.5% Pur ton CFD 2.0% Perfume 1 .O% Water, sodium c h l o r i d e , p r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . t o make 100.0%
Foam Baths, Pearlescent
B 71/16: Ze teso l 2056 P e r l g l anzmi t t e l GM 41 75 Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e
871 / 4 : Zeteso l 856T Se tac in 103 Spez ia l P e r g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055 Oxypon 2145 Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e
27.0% 3.0% 0.8% 2.5%
q . s . t o make 100.0%
37.0% 6.0% 7.5% 3.0%
q . s . t o make 100.0%
SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co.: Suggested Formula t ions
Bath and Shower Products 31
Herbal Foam Bath
A . Mar lon PS 65 Mar l i n a t 242/28 D i o n i l OC/K Ampholyt J B 130 M a r l i n a t CM 105 Water
B. Perfume Ex t rapon 3-Specia l P r e s e r v a t i v e Col ou r NaCl
5 . 0 35 .0
3 .0 10 .0 9 . 0
t o 100.0
qs 2 . 0
qs qs qs
P r e p a r a t i o n :
s t i r r e d w h i l e warmed u n t i l homogeneous. The components under 6. a r e added t o those o f A . a t about 30C. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o
The components under A . a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and
5 .5 -6 .6 .
Foam Bath, Transparent
Mar l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t SL 3/40 Mar lamid DF 1218 Magnesium s u l p h a t e Perfume Co lou r P r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl Water
x 7H20
%
10 .0 2 . 0 0 . 5
qs qs qs qs
t o 100.0
3 5 . 5
P r e p a r a t i o n :
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmet ics:
The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
Suggested Formul a t i ons
32 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Mild Shower Gel
Mar l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t DFN 30 Ampholyt JB 130 Lamepon S Camomi l e Speci a1 Perfume Co lou r P r e s e r v a t i v e A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d Water P r e p a r a t i o n :
The components u n t i l homogeneous
% 2 2 . 0
6 . 0 1 6 . 0
5 . 0 2 . 0
qs qs qs qs
t o 100.0
a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d . The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
Shower Bath Gel with Pearl Lustre
Mar l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 105 M a r l i n a t S L 3/40 D i o n i l O C / K Mar l amid PG20 Panthenol Perfume Co lou r P r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl Water Procedure:
u n t i l homogeneous. The components
% 4 3 . 0 1 0 . 0
5 . 0 3 . 0 3 . 0 0 . 2
qs qs qs qs
t o 100.0
a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
Clear, Mild to the Skin Shower Bath
Ampholyt JB 130 Mar l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t SL 3/40 D i o n i l O C / K Perfume Co lou r P r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl Water P r e p a r a t i o n :
u n t i l homogeneous. The components
18 .0 1 4 . 0 11 - 0
1 . 5 qs qs qs qs
t o 100.0
a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 .6 -6 .5 .
SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmetics: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Bath and Shower Products 33
Refreshing Shower Gel
M a r l i n a t CM 105 M a r l i n a t DFK 30 Ampholyt JB 130 D i o n i l O C / K Rosemary S p e c i a l S t i n g i n g N e t t l e S p e c i a l Hamamel i s Speci a1 Marlowet R40/K Menthol Perfume Co lour P r e s e r v a t i v e A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d Water
% 3 2 . 0 1 7 . 0 1 1 . 5
2 . 0 0 . 5 0 . 5 0 . 5 1 . o 0 . 5
qs qs qs qs
t o 1 0 0 . 0
P r e p a r a t i o n :
u n t i l homogeneous. The p H i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
Shower Gel
Mar l i n a t 2 4 2 / 2 8 M a r l i n a t S L 3/40 Ampholyt J A 140 D i o n i l O C / K P e r f ume Co lour P r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl Water
P r e p a r a t i o n :
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics:
The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r in sequence and s t i r r e d
Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
34 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shower Bath for Everyday Use
Mar l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 105 Ampholyt J B 130 D i o n i l O C / K Marlamid PG 20 Panthenol V i tamin F Perfume Colour P r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl Water
% 3 5 . 0 16 .0 8 . 0 2 . 0 1 . o 0 . 1 0 . 1
qs qs qs qs
t o 1 0 0 . 0
P r e p a r a t i on :
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5.5-6.5. The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
Mild Foam Bath
Mar l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 105 D i o n i l OC/K I v y Spec ia l Rosemary Spec ia l Perfume Colour P r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl Water
%
18.0 30.0
3.0 0.3 0 . 1
qs qs qs qs
t o 1 0 0 . 0
Prepara t i on :
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5.5-6.5.
SOURCE: Huls America I n c . : Formula t ions f o r Cosmetics:
The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
Suggested Formula t ions
0 75/26: Ze teso l 2056 Se tac in 103 Spez ia l Pur ton CFD Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e
Bath and Shower Products 35
Shower Baths, Clear
25.0% 9.0% 1.0% 1 . O % 2.5%
q . s . t o make 100.0%
0 75/5: Ze teso l 856 T 21 -5% Amphotensid G 0 2009 8.0% Pur ton SFD 2.0% Oxypon 2145 1 .0% Perfume 1 .O% Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e , sodium c h l o r i d e q . s . t o make 100.0%
Shower Baths, Pearlescent
0 75/6: E x t r a k t 52 P e r l g 7 a n z m i t t e l GM 4055 Pur ton SFD Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e
42.0% 5.0% 2.0%
q . s . t o make 100.0%
0 75/27: Ze teso l 2056 27.0% P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4175 4.0% Pur ton CFD 2.0% Oxypon 2145 1 .O% Perfume 1 .O% Sodium c h l o r i d e , water , p r e s e r v a t i v e q.s. t o make 100.0%
0 75/56: Ze teso l 856 T P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055 Oxeta l VD 20 Oxypon 2145 Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e
22.0% 5.0% 2.0% 1 .O% 1 . O %
q . s . t o make 100.0%
SOURCE: Zschimrner 8 Schwarz GmbH & Go. : Suggested Formula t ions
36 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shower Gel Cleanser
A g e n t l e foaming g e l c leanser designed t o t h o r o u g h l y deep c leanse and r e f r e s h t h e s k i n w i t h o u t d i s t u r b i n g t h e s k i n ' s n a t u r a l m o i s t u r e ba lance.
I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: % by Weight P a r t A : Dei o n i zed Water Polyquaternium-10 C i t r i c A c i d Tet rasod i um EDTA Methylparaben Sodi um P C A / A j i dew N-50
P a r t 0 : Sodi um Laure th S u l f a t e TEA-Cocoyl G lu tamate /Amiso f t CT-12 Cocami dopropy l Be ta ine PEG-1 50 D i s t e a r a t e Laurami de DEA
P a r t C : Fragrance/#IY-67 M e t h y l c h l o r o i s o t h i azo l i none and Methyl i s o t h i azo l i none
P a r t D : Sodium C h l o r i d e
Procedure:
50.150 0 * 200 0.100 0.100 0 .150 0.500
30.000 10.000
5.000 0.700 2.000
0.250 0.050
0.800
D ispe rse Polymer JR-125 i n d e i o n i z e d wa te r . Heat t o 70C. Add rema in ing p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Mix a t 70C u n t i l comp le te l y homogeneous. Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t C . M ix w e l l . Add p a r t D as needed t o i ncrease v i scos i t y . Con t i nue m i x i ng and coo l i ng t o 35C. Appearance: C lea r l i q u i d / p H : 5 . 2 0 - 5 . 7 0 / V i s c o s i t y : 4,000-6,000 cps
Bath Crystals
A g e n t l e m i l k y b a t h c r y s t a l f o r m u l a t i o n t h a t w i l l r e l a x your senses w i t h t h e aroma o f t h e h o t ba ths o f Japan. I t w i l l l e a v e your s k i n c l e a n and smooth w h i l e t a k i n g your mind t o f a r and e x o t i c p l a c e s .
I n g r e d i e n t s : Sodium C h l o r i d e Cocoyl G lu tamate /Amiso f t CA Fragrance/Takasago Cabos i l M-5
% by Weight 86 .00
7 IO0 1 .50 0 .50
B lend i n g r e d i e n t s 1,2,3. Premix i n g r e d i e n t s 4 and 5 . Add premix t o p re -b lend and mix u n t i l homogeneous and u n i f o r m .
SOURCE: A j inomoto USA, Inc.: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Bath and Shower Products 37
Silky Bath Gel
Rhodigel i s used as a t h i c k e n e r and foam s t a b i l i z e r f o r t h i s s i l k y b a t h g e l f o r m u l a . Vanseal NALS-30 p r o v i d e s foam enhancement and s k i n c o n d i t i o n i n g p r o p e r t i e s . The cocoamidopropyl b e t a i n e and sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e s u r f a c t a n t s p r o v i d e good c l e a n i n g and r i n s i n g p r o p e r t i e s f o r t h i s f o r m u l a . The g l y c e r i n and PPG-3 m y r i s t y l e t h e r a r e e m o l l i e n t s which c o n t r i b u t e t o t h e e legan t a f t e r f e e l .
I n q r e d i e n t : A Rhodigel
De ion i zed Water G1 y c e r i n
B Vanseal NALS-30 Cocoami dopropy l b e t a Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a
C PPG-3 m y r i s t y l e t h e r
P r e s e r v a t i v e , c o l o r ,
( 2 ) Lexa ine C ( 3 ) S ipon ES-2 ( 4 ) P r o m y r i s t y l PM-3
P r e p a r a t i o n :
ne ( 2 ) e ( 3 )
( 4 )
f r ag rance
‘YO bv W t . 0 . 5 0
5 5 . 0 0 1 . o o
8 . 0 0 1 6 . 0 0 1 6 . 0 0
3 .50
q . s
Add Rhodigel t o t h e water s l o w l y , w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t h i g h shear . Rhodigel w i l l become u n i f o r m l y d i s t r i b u t e d th roughou t t h e water and t h i c k e n i n g w i l l b e g i n . A t t h i s t i m e , a d j u s t t o g e n t l e m i x i n g . Gen t le , u n i f o r m m i x i n g w i l l s o l u b i l i z e t h e Rhodigel i n t i m e and w i l l a l s o m in im ize a i r en t rapment . Add g l y c e r i n and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add A t o 50C and h o l d t h i s tempera ture whi l e addi ng remai n i ng i ngred i e n t s . Add B i ngred- i e n t s i n o rde r u s i n g g e n t l e m i x i n g t o a v o i d a i r en t rapment . A d d i t i o n o f C w i l l t h i c k e n fo rmu la t o a ge l c o n s i s t e n c y .
Cons is tency : F lowab le g e l . ( V i s c o s i t y : 8 0 0 0 - 1 0 , 0 0 0 cps)
Suggested Packaging: Squeeze b o t t l e o r t ube .
Commen t s :
development o f new p roduc ts o r improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.
S O U R C E : R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , I n c . : Formula No. 429
T h i s p r o t o t y p e fo rmu la i s designed t o serve as a gu ide f o r t h e
38 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Water White Shower Gel
Sandopan DTC a c i d , used as t h e secondary s u r f a c t a n t , c o n t r i b - u t e s t o t h e m i ldness o f t h e s u r f a c t a n t system. Velsan P8-3 i s an e m o l l i e n t e s t e r t h a t adds a v e l v e t y f e e l t o c r y s t a l c l e a r , water w h i t e shower g e l - h a s good foaming c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s .
t h e s k i n . T h i s v i s c o s i t y and
m r e d i e n t s : Standapol ES-3 Sandopan DTC A c i d Lauramide DEA Velsan P8-3 Glucamate DOE-120 Germaben I 1 Versene NA Fragrance De ion ized Water Procedure: Phase A : Hvdra te Glucamate DOE-120 and Versene
w 41 .25 10.00
3 .30 2 .oo 1 . 7 0 1 . o o 0.10 0 . 0 5
q s
NA i n a l l o f t h e d e i o n i z e d wa te r .
a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 . Phase B : Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Combine Phase A&B,
P roper t i es :
Fo rmu la t i on CHS-51 V i s c o s i t y : 8500 cps % S o l i d s : 29.0% pH: 6 . 0
Shower Gel
Sandobet SC and Sandopan DTC a c i d c o n t r i b u t e t o t h e m i ldness of t h e s u r f a c t a n t system and add t o t h e foaming p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e shower g e l . Velsan P8-3 i s an e m o l l i e n t e s t e r t h a t adds a v e l v e t y f e e l t o t h e s k i n . T h i s c r y s t a l c l e a r shower g e l has good v i scos i t y and foaming c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s .
I n g r e d i e n t s : w Standapol ES-3 46.40 Sandobet SC 10.00 Sandopan DTC A c i d 5 . 6 0 Laurami de DEA 3.30 Velsan P8-3 2 .00 Glucamate DOE-120 1 . 7 0 Germaben I 1 1 . oo Versene NA 0 . 1 0 Fragrance 0 . 0 5 De ion ized Water qs Procedure: Phase A : Hyd ra te Glucamate DOE-120 and Versene NA i n a l l o f t h e
Phase B : Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Combine Phase A&B,
Fo rmu la t i on CHS-52
SOURCE: Sandoz Chemicals Corp . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
d e i o n i z e d wa te r ,
a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0
40 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Aloe Vera Skin Freshner
I n p r e d i e n t s : A . De ion ized water
S t e a r i c a c i d t r i p l e pressed G l y c e r o l
Percent 49.50 18.00 5.00
B . Potass i um h y d r o x i de 1 . 2 0
C . De ion ized water Veragel 200 powder
5 .00 0.25
D . W i t c h Hazel E x t r a c t 25.80
Procedure: Heat P a r t A t o 70C. w i t h s t i r r i n g . S l o w l y add P a r t B t o
P a r t A . Cool t o 40C. w i t h s t i r r i n g . Combine P a r t C and add t o P a r t A and P a r t B. Add P a r t D w i t h s t i r r i n g , c o o l t o 25C. Package a t room tempera ture .
Powder Mask Activator
I n a r e d i e n t s : Percent De ion ized Water 9 5 . 3 Croquat M (Cocodimonium Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n ) 0 . 5 Incronam AL-30 (Almondami dopropy l B e t a i n e ) 0 .5 Honey 1 .2 A l o e Veragel L i q u i d 1 . o L i p o f r u i t Cucumber 0 . 5 Germaben I 1 1 . o
Procedure: D i s s o l v e Germaben I 1 i n w a t e r . When u n i f o r m , add Incronam
AL-30. Next d i s s o l v e a l o e , honey and cucumber e x t r a c t . M i x w e l l . Add Croquat M. A d j u s t pH t o pH 4.2+-0.1 w i t h 10% TEA. Immediate ly p r i o r t o a p p l i c a t i o n mix t h e two components t o fo rm a t h i c k p a s t e . Recommended use 1 : l r a t i o .
SOURCE: D r . Madis L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions
Beauty Aids 41
Blemish/Scar Concealer
P r o t o p e t 1 S Pe t ro la tum C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 Octy ldodecano l O z o k e r i t e Pheny ld imeth icone Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l S y n t h e t i c r e s i n Propy lparaben A n t i o x i d a n t T a l c C1 ay S i l i c a T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e I r o n o x i d e s
Skin Cleanser with Porous Cellulose Particles
Beeswax P a r a f f i n P r o t o p e t 1s Pe t ro la tum C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i l S o r b i t a n Sesqu io lea te Po lyoxye thy lene s o r b i t a n monooleate Water Fragrance Porous C e l l u l o s e p a r t i c l e s
9.80% 1 6 . 0 0
6 . 0 0 2 . 5 0 1 . 6 0 2 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 0 . 2 0 0 . 1 0 8 . 0 0 8 . 0 0 0 . 3 0
41 . O O 4 . 0 0
3 . 0 0 % 5 . 0 0
15.00 41 - 0 0
4 . 2 0 0 . 8 0
2 5 . 0 0 1 . o o 5 . 0 0
SOURCE: W i t co C o r p . : Pe t ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formul a t ! ons
42 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Body Scrub
I n g r e d i e n t s : ( 1 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF grade) ( 2 ) De ion ized Water ( 3 ) Beeswax (4) Spermacet ic, s y n t h e t i c (5) Sorb i t o 1 Monopalymatate ( 6 ) Po lyso rba te 60 (7 ) C e t y l A l coho l ( 8 ) L i g h t M ine ra l O i 1 (9) S i l t e x -50 +lo0 Mesh
P r e s e r v a t i v e , Co lo r , & Perfume
% bv Weight 3 . 0
6 0 . 2 1 . 4 1.4 3.3 3.3 2 . 8
1 8 . 6 6 . 0 q . s .
Procedure:
mix and hea t (3), (4), ( 5 ) , (6), (7), and ( 8 ) t o 80C. Add t o water phase w i t h h i g h a g i t a t i o n . Slow m ixe r and add ( 9 ) . Cool b e f o r e f i l l i n g c o n t a i n e r s .
p roduc t used.
a b l e i n g r e d i e n t s .
D isperse ( 1 ) i n t o ( 2 ) and hea t t o 70C. I n separa te c o n t a i n e r ,
F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each
Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s shou ld be used when h a n d l i n g flamm-
Body Powder
I n o r e d i e n t s : % bv Wei Qht (1 ) Z i n c S t e a r a t e 5 . 0 ( 2 ) Z i n c Oxide 5 .0 ( 3 ) Magnesium Carbonate ( l i g h t ) 1 5 . 0 ( 4 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC 7 5 . 0 ( 5 ) Fragrance, Pigments, & P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .
Procedure:
16 hours . Dry mix rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s .
used.
SOURCE: Kaopo l i t e , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Mix f r a g r a n c e w i t h ( 3 ) and a l l o w t o s tand f o r app rox ima te l y
F o l l o w recommended p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p roduc t
Beauty Aids 43
Cheek Rouge
M a t e r i a1 s : 1. M i n e r a l O i l SUS 65/75 2 . Ceraphyl 368 3 . Castorwax 4. Beeswax 5 . Super Corona L a n o l i n 6 . Lexgard P 7 . Bentone Gel M I 0 r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 8 . Pigment Concentrate* 9 . T i m i r o n Pear l Sheen MP-30 1 0 . T a l c 1623 11 .328 T i t a n i um D i o x i d e CTFA 12 .Co lo r No. 7055 Pur Oxy Y e l l o w B.C. 13.Color No. 7153 Lo-Micron P i n k B.C. 14.Perfume
*Pigment Concen t ra te : Co lo r No. 3121 D & C Red. No. 21 Cas to r O i l
% b y Weight 17.00 1 5 . 0 0
2.50 6.00
10.00 0.15
15.00 3 . 0 0 4.00
18.00 6 .00 1 . 5 0 1.50 0 . 3 5
3 0 . 0 0 70.00
Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 th rough 5 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d
2 . B r i n g tempera tu re down t o 80C. Add and mix i n i t e m 7 u n t i l i t
3 . Add and mix i t e m 8 f o r 5 m inu tes o r u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . 4 . Add i t e m s 9 th rough 13. Add each powder s e p a r a t e l y , making
k e t t l e . Heat t o 85C u n t i l m e l t e d c l e a r .
i s homogeneous. M ix f o r 10 m inu tes .
s u r e t h a t each pigment i s p r o p e r l y d i s p e r s e d b e f o r e t h e n e x t a d d i t i o n .
5 . Add i t e m 14 and m i x .
Note :
smooth, homogeneous f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t .
SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Formula TS-129
I t ems 10 th rough 13 shou ld be m i c r o p u l v e r i z e d t o ach ieve a
44 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Concealing Stick
T h i s p r o d u c t c o v e r s f i n e f a c i a1 1 i nes and b lemishes n a t u r a l l y , l e a v i n g a f l e x i b l e b a r r i e r which a l s o r e t a i n s m o i s t u r e and c o n d i t i o n s t h e s k i n . Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax) i s used as a pigment d i s p e r s e r which makes t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n e a s i e r and thereby a v o i d i n g t h e expense o f m i l l i n g .
Phase A: Castor O i l (Caschem) Pet ro la tum, Whi te (Wi tco) S y n t h e t i c C a n d e l i l l a ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) Carnauba Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Jo joba Wax ( F l o r a Tech) P a r a f f i n Wax 130/135 (Kos ter Keunen) O z o k e r i t e 170 ( K o s t e r Keunen) Squalane ( B a r n e t ) V i t a m i n E (Roche)
Phase 8 : Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C & D ) Cosmetic Tan I r o n Oxide (Sun Chemical) Brown I r o n Oxide (Sun Chemical)
Phase C : L i q u i p a r ( S u t t o n )
27.3% 22.0% 10.0% 6.0% 5.0% 5.0% 4.0% 1.5% 1.0% 1 .0% 0 .5%
9.0% 5 .0% 1.5% 0.2%
1 .O%
Procedure: Heat and mix Phase B t i l l p igments a r e even ly d i s p e r s e d .
Weigh Phase A and i n d i v i d u a l l y add t o Phase B w h i l e m i x i n g . Heat AB t i l l homogeneous, add Phase C, c o o l and pour a t 60C.
Adapt ion o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : By r e d u c i n g t h e wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n t h i s p r o d u c t can be
poured i n t o a compact t r a y . Large v a r i a t i o n s can be made i n wax and o i l c o n c e n t r a t i o n s t h a t a r e i n c o r p o r a t e d i n s t i c k p r o d u c t s and s t i l l produce a s i m i l a r f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t .
SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions
Beauty Aids 45
Cream Eye Shadow
I n a r e d i e n t s : ( 1 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF grade) ( 2 ) Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e ( l o w v i s c o s i t y ) ( 3 ) De ion ized Water ( 4 ) Sodium Laury l S u l f a t e ( 5 ) Propy lene G lyco l ( 6 ) T r i e thano l ami ne ( 7 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC ( 8 ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (cosmet ic g rade) (9 ) I r o n Oxides (cosmet ic grade, f o r d e s i r e d ( 1 0 ) S t e a r i c A c i d ( 1 1 ) G l y c e r y l Monostearate ( 1 2 ) Lanol i n ( 1 3)Sesame O i 1 ( 1 4 ) O l i v e O i l ( 1 5 ) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (16)Fragrance and P r e s e r v a t i v e
% bv Weight 2 . 0 0 . 2
49.3 0 . 3 5 . 0 0 . 4
20 .0 5 .5
c o l o r ) 4 .5 0 . 8 2 . 0 4 . 0 2 . 0 1 . o 3 .0 q . s .
Procedure:
c o n t i n u e t o d i s p e r s e . S low ly add ( 4 ) , ( 5 ) , ( 6 ) , ( 7 ) , (E), and ( 9 ) . Cont inue m i x i n g a t h i g h speed u n t i l w e l l d i spe rsed . Heat t h i s m i x t u r e t o 65C and deaera te . I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r mix ( l o ) , ( l l ) , ( 1 2 ) , ( 1 3 ) , ( 1 4 ) , and (15 ) , and heat t o 70C u n t i l un i fo rm. Add t h i s m i x t u r e s l o w l y t o (1 -9 ) w h i l e under a g i t a t i o n . Cont inue t o mix u n t i l c o o l . (16) can be added t o e i t h e r (1 -9) m i x t u r e o r a t t h e end depending on t h e recommendations o f t h e suppl i e r .
Fo l l ow recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p roduc t used.
Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s shou ld be used when h a n d l i n g f lammable i ngred i e n t s .
Mix ( 1 ) i n t o ( 3 ) w i t h h i g h shear u n t i l d i spe rsed . Add ( 2 ) and
Dry Powder Rouge Base
I n a r e d i e n t s : ( 1 ) Lanol i n A l coho l Ace ta te ( 2 ) Z i n c S t e a r a t e (3) K a o p o l i t e TLC ( 4 ) Magnesium S t e a r a t e ( 5 ) Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e s , & Pigments
% by Weiqht 4 .0 6.0
88.0 2 . 0 q . s .
Procedure: Dry mix and p ress as r e q u i r e d . F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each
p roduc t used.
SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions
46 Cosmetic and Toilehy Formulations
Cream Facial Scrub
P a r t A: G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE* M i n e r a l O i l Saf f 1 ower O i 1 Sesame O i l Squalene D i o c t y l A d i p a t e (and) O c t y l S t e a r a t e (and) O c t y l
Pa l m i t a t e * * S t e a r i c A c i d C e t y l A l coho l Hydroxypropy l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e * * * P a r t B : Water A loe Vera Gel Germaben I 1 P a r t C : T r i e thano l ami ne P a r t D: Acuscrub 44 Procedure:
S e p a r a t e l y combine P a r t A and P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s and t o 8OC w i t h a g i t a t i o n . S low ly add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h a t i o n . Add P a r t C and beg in t o c o o l . A t 50C, modera te ly Acuscrub 44 and s t i r u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . * Henkel/Emery (Emerest 2407) ** Caschem (Wickenol 163) *** Dow Chemical Co. (Methocel 40-100)
Wt%
5 . 0 5 . 0 1 . o 1 . o 1 . o
1 . o 2 . 5 0 . 5 0 . 5
68.7 1 . o 1 . a
1 . o
1 0 . 0
hea t a g i t - add
Oil-In-Water Cream and Its Scrub Derivative
%
2. S t e a r i c A c i d 0 . 5 3 . Lanogene ( l a n o l i n a l c o h o l & m i n e r a l o i l ) 6 .0 4 . I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e 12.5 5 . S o r b i t a n Monostearate 1 . 3 6 . Po lyoxye thy lene 20 S o r b i t a n Monostearate 1 . a 7. Sorbo ( s o r b i t o l 70%, water 30%) 5 . 0 8 . Carbopol 940 1 . o 9 . Germaben I 1 0 . 8 10. Water 68.35 11. T r i e thano l ami ne 0.75 12.Perfume Q . S .
Weigh 1-6, t hen weigh 7-10. Heat 7-10 w i t h a g i t a t i o n u s i n g a
1 . A-C 617 Po lye thy lene 2 . 0
Procedure:
homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . When t h e aqueous s o l u t i o n reaches 85C, hea t o i l phase t o 90-95C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l t h e wax has d i s s o l v e d . Combine 1-10 and shear u n t i l m i x t u r e i s homogen- eous. Add 11 and shear w e l l . Cool t o 55C and add 12.
SOURCE: AlliedSignal Inc.: Suggested Formulations
Beauty Aids 47
Cream-to-Powder Eye Shadow with Dry-Floc PC
Dry F l o c PC, a h i g h l y water r e s i s t a n t s t a r c h , p r o v i d e s a
Dermacryl LT p r o v i d e s water r e s i s t a n c e , i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e s i l k y smooth e l e g a n t f e e l , and i s t a l c f r e e .
p r o t e c t i o n as w e l l as improved coverage. I n a r e d i e n t s : %w/w Phase A : Eutanol G 13.00 Dermacryl LT 1 .oo Phase B: M u l t i w a x W-835 0.30 Bentone Gel VS-5 PC 30.00 Phase C: M y r i t o l 318 3.00 T r i v e n t SS-20 0.50 Emerest 2452 4.00 V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e 0.10 I s o p a r H 7.40 Cab-0-Si 1 TS-530 0.50 Spect rapear l BLG 10.00 Dry-F lo PC 30.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.20 Procedure:
t o BOC, mix u n t i l complete. Add Phase 8, mix t h o r o u g h l y . Combine Phase C . Add Phase C t o A/B mix t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o room temp- e r a t u r e . Formula 8302-115
Phase A, s l o w l y s i f t Dermacryl LT i n t o O c t y l Dodecanol, heat
Liquid Talc
Tapioca F l o u r g i v e s a s o f t powdery a f t e r f e e l and i s t a l c f r e e . I n a r e d i e n t s : SD A lcoho l 40 (190 P r o o f ) Crodacol S-95NF
yU-& 54.00
0.75 V i t a m i n E 1 .oo Dexpanthenol 1 .oo Tween 80 0 .75 Fancol ALA 1 .oo E s t a l a n 430 10.00 Dermol 89 6.00 Dermol 105 4.00 Ceraphyl 375 0.75 Ethomeen C-25 2.00 Carbopol 1382 0.75 Tapioca 18.00 Ethomeen C-25 qs pH 7.00
Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s except Carbopol 1382 and Tapioca. M i x w i t h good a g i t a t i o n u n t i l u n i f o r m . S l o w l y s i f t i n Carbopol 1382. Mix u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d ispersed. S i f t i n Tapioca. M i x u n t i l u n i - form. Add Ethomeen C-25 t o o b t a i n pH o f 7 .0 package. Formul a 791 5-68 SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co. : Suggested Formulas
48 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Creamy Eye Shadow
M a t e r i a1 s : 1. I s o p r o p y l L a n o l a t e - D i s t i 2 . S t e a r y l A l c o h o l 3 . Beeswax 4. Ganex V-220 5. Cyc lometh icone 6. S o l t r o l 100 7 . H i - S i 1 T-600 8 . Bentone Gel SS71 r h e o l o g
% bv Weight 1 ed 2.0
3 . 0 6 .0 5.0 3.0 5 .0 0 . 8
c a l a d d i t i v e 45.0 6.0 9 . C h r o m a - l i t e Dark B lue
10.50% 328 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e CTFA Extended w i t h T a l c 141
1 1 . F1 amenco Vel v e t - 1 00 1 2 , P r e s e r v a t i v e
20 .0
4.0 0 . 2
M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s : 1. Weigh i t e m s 1 t o 4 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d k e t t l e .
2 . B r i n g tempera ture down t o 65C. Add 5 and s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g
3. M a i n t a i n tempera ture t o 65C. Add and mix i tems 7 and 8 u s i n g
4. Add i t e m s 9 and 10. Mix t h o r o u g h l y a f t e r each a d d i t i o n t o
5. Add i t e m s 11 and 12 and mix f o r 5 minu tes . 6 . Pour a t 62-63C j u s t b e f o r e i t s t a r t s c o n g e a l i n g . Formula TS-249
Heat t o 70C u n t i l me l ted c l e a r .
t o a v o i d sudden c o o l i n g . Mix f o r 5 minu tes .
a homomixer a t medium speed. Mix u n t i l homogeneous ( lump f r e e )
d i s p e r s e p igments u n i f o r m l y .
Waterproof Eye Liner
M a t e r i a l s : 1 . Beeswax 2 . Ganex V-220 3. S h e l l Sol 71 4. Bentone Gel SS71 r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 5. P r e s e r v a t i v e 6. Chroma- l i te B l a c k
% bv Wei q h t 16.5
5 . 0 35 .0 33.5
0 .2 9 .8
Manufac tur ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 and 2 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d k e t t l e .
Heat t o 70C and h o l d u n t i l me l ted c l e a r . 2. B r i n g tempera ture down t o 65C. Add i t e m 3 s l o w l y , w h i l e
m i x i n g , t o a v o i d sudden c o o l i n g . M i x f o r 5 minu tes . 3. M a i n t a i n tempera ture a t 60C. Add and mix i n i t e m 4 u s i n g a
homomixer a t medium speed. Mix u n t i l homogeneous. NOTE: A c l e a n chrome s p a t u l a d ipped i n t o t h e g e l mass w i l l show an even s u r f a c e sheen, w i t h no agglomerates when proper1 y d i spersed .
4. Add i t e m s 5 and 6 s e p a r a t e l y . M ix t h o r o u g h l y a f t e r each a d d i t i o n .
5. Pour a t 55-60C j u s t b e f o r e i t s t a r t s congea l ing . Formula TS-189 SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions
BeautyAids 49
Creamy Matte Make UP Base I n a r e d i e n t s : ( 1 ) De ion ized Water ( 2 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF grade) ( 3 ) Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e (medium v i s c o s i t y ) ( 4 ) Tamol N ( 5 ) Propy lene G l y c o l (6 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC ( 7 ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (8) I r o n Oxide ( m i c r o n i z e d ) (9 ) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( 1 0 ) S o r b i t o l Monolaurate ( 11 ) P o l y s o r b a t e 20 ( 1 2 ) S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (13)Amerchol-L-l Ol
Perfume & P r e s e r v a t i v e
% bv Weiaht 54.20
3.00 0.50 0.30 5 . 0 0
19.80 3.70 1.50 5.00 0.75 2.25 2.00 2.00 q . s .
Procedure: Mix w i t h h i g h shear ( l ) , ( 2 ) , and ( 3 ) u n t i l w e l l d i s p e r s e d
( a p p r o x i m a t e l y 20 minu tes) . Add (41, (51, (61, (71, and ( 8 ) and heat t o approx imate ly 60C. I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r , mix ( 9 ) , ( l o ) , ( l l ) , (12) , and (13) and heat t o 70C w h i l e m i x i n g . Add t o t h e o t h e r mix and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l c o o l .
each p r o d u c t used.
f lammable i n a r e d i e n t s .
F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f
Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s shou ld be used when h a n d l i n g - - Liquid Make-Up
I n a r e d i e n t s : ( 1 ) De ion ized Water ( 2 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF arade)
% bv Weiah 66.
I .
i >
( 3 ) Carboxymethyl C e l l u i o s e (medium v i s c o s i t y ) 0 .5 ( 4 ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 1 . o (5) Tamol-N 0 . 4 (6 ) Lexanol PG 900 5 . 0 ( 7 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC 7.0 ( 8 ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (cosmet ic grade) 2 .0 (9 ) I r o n Oxide (mic ron ized) 1 . o (10)Lexmul P 0 .5 ( 1 1 ) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e 5 .0 (12)Lexate I L 4 .5 ( 1 3 ) S t e a r i c A c i d 2.0 ( 1 4)Mi n e r a l O i 1 3 .0
P r e s e r v a t i v e & Fragrance q . s . Procedure:
d i s p e r s e u n t i l u n i f o r m . Reduce speed and add ( 4 ) , (5 ) , (61, (71, ( 8 ) , and ( 9 ) . Heat t o 70C. I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r , h e a t and mix ( l o ) , ( l l ) , (12) , (13) and ( 1 4 ) t o 70C. Cont inue m i x i n g u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add t h i s t o t h e aqueous phase. Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l t o 30C.
F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used.
Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s shou ld be used when h a n d l i n g f 1 ammable i n g r e d i e n t s . SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
D isperse ( 2 ) i n t o ( 1 ) a t h j g h speed. Add ( 3 ) and c o n t i n u e t o
50 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Creamy Roll-On Lip Gloss
Mater i a1 s : 1 . I ndopo l H-100 2 . I s o p r o p y l a n 50 3 . Propy lparaben 4 . Tenox 4 5 . Bentone Gel LO1 Rheo log ica l A d d i t i v e 6 . Pigment Concent ra te* 7 . T i m i r o n Super Red 8 . Perfume
*Pigment Concent ra te : Cas tor O i l Co lo r No. 3106 D&C Red No. 6
% bv Wei a h t 52 .0 2 4 . 5
0 . 1 0 . 1
20 .0 0 .2 3 . 0 0 . 1
6 0 . 0 40.0
Manufac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Weigh i t ems 1 th rough 4 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s steam j a c k e t k e t t l e .
2 . B r i n g tempera ture down t o 75C; add and mix i n i t e m 5 u s i n g
3. Add i t e m 6 and mix f o r 5 minu tes o r u n t i l d ispersed; t hen add
4 . Cont inue m i x i n g a t medium speed and lower tempera ture t o 60C.
Heat t o 80C and h o l d u n t i l me l ted c l e a r .
homomixer a t medium speed. Mix f o r 10 minu tes a t 75C.
i t e m 7 and mix f o r another 5 m inu tes .
Add i t e m 8 . Remove hea t and a l l o w mass t o come t o room temp- e r a t u r e .
Pigment Concent ra te P r e p a r a t i o n : 1 . Weigh d r y powder i n t o t h e c a s t o r o i l u s i n g a s low speed
2 . G ive t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e two passes ove r a t h r e e r o l l m i l l a t
SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested Formula TS-190
Hobar t t y p e mixer u n t i l u n i f o r m .
room tempera tu re .
Beauty Ai& 51
Deep Extra Body Conditioner
T h i s fo rmu la u t i l i z e s t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e Hexane- d i o l Behenyl Beeswax i n a s i l i c o n e o i l and c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s o f Bee 's M i l k .
Oil Phase A : E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF (Kos te r Keunen) S i l i c o n e O i l 245 (Dow) S i 1 i cone O i 1 556 (Dow) Hexanediol Behenyl Beeswax (Kos te r Keunen) L e c i t h i n (Am. L e c i t h i n ) L iquapar ( S u t t o n ) Propy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
Water Phase 0: Carbopol 940 2% S o l u t i o n (BF Goodr ich) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (DuPont) T r i e thano l ami ne (Dow) Cocamide (Croda) S i l k Powder (Dasco) Mar ine Dew (Aj inornoto) S i l k S o l u b l e L i q u i d (Dasco) Water ( D i s t i 11 ed) Methyl Paraben ( S u t t o n )
Phase C: Bee 's M i l k (Kos te r Keunen) Fragrance (Aroma Tech)
3.0% 2.5% 2.0% 1 .O% 1 .O% 0.5% 0.2%
10.0% 0.5% 0.1% 0.1% 0.1% 0.1% 0.1%
68.3% 0.3%
10.0% 0.2%
Procedure: M i x and heat water phase t o 70-75C. M e l t o i l phase and add
t o water phase a t 70-75C under a g i t a t i o n . Cont inue m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g . A t 40C add phase C and pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r a t 35C.
Adap ta t i on o f f o rmu la and I t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Changes i n t h e a c t i v e s and t h e c o n d i t i o n e r s a r e s t r a i g h t
forward, s imp le replacements. Gafquat ' s would be a c l a s s o f c o n d i t i o n e r s wh ich would f i t t h i s fo rmu la w e l l .
SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on
52 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Emollient Liquid Make-up
Conceals minor s k i n i m p e r f e c t i o n s y e t m o i s t u r i z e s , g i v i n g s k i n a s o f t dewy f i n i s h . T h i s Produc t has tremendous endurance th rough v e r y v i g o r o u s a c t i v i t i e s .
Phase A: Xanthan Gum (Ke lco ) C e l l u l o s e Gum (Aqualon) Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) T r ie thano lamine (Dow) PEG 1450 (Union Carb ide) Methy l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) Propy l ene G1 y c o l (Dow) Po lyso rba te 60 ( G a l l a r d & S c h l e s i n g e r )
Phase 0: T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) Brown I r o n Oxide (Warner-Jenkinson) Ye l l ow BC I r o n Oxides (Warner-Jenkinson) Orange Wax (Kos te r Keunen) Cera B e l l i n a (Kos te r Keunen)
Phase C : O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Ba rne l ) S i l i c o n e 245 (Dow) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) Hydrogenated Castor O i l (Acme) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Jo joba O i 1 ( Jo joba Growers) Propy l ene G1 y c o l S t e a r a t e ( I n o l ex) Propy lparaben ( S u t t o n )
Procedure: D ispe rse pigments i n t h e Orange Wax and Cera B e l l
beaker w i t h a g l a s s s t i r r i n s rod , a l l o w t o s o l i d i f y .
0.33% 0.23% 50.55% 0.70% 2 I 35% 0.28% 1.88% 0.47%
8.44% 2.35% 0.94% 6.10% 4.69%
6.57% 2 * 00% 6.10% 1.41% 1.50% 0. 1 0
na i n Repea
so-as- to b reak-up v i s i b l e app lomera t i ons . Mix and hea t t o 75C phase C u n t i l un i fo rm, add t o phase B under a g i t a t i o n , m a i n t a i n i n g t h e tempera ture t i l l homogeneous. Add t h e mixed . - . . . - . . . . - . . .
94% 89% 2 8%
a
ana me l ted phase B ana c t o t n e mixed and me l ted phase A . Cont inue m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g , pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r s a t app rox ima te l y 50C.
Adapt ion o f f o rmu la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :
t u t e d i n minor amounts s i n c e p r o d u c t s such as these a r e sen- s i t i v e t o smal l changes t h a t w i l l a f f e c t s t a b i l i t y .
SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on
Sunscreens, vege tab le o i l s and branched o i l s can be s u b s t i -
Beauty Aids 53
Emulsion Makeup
P a r t A : Amerchol L-1 01 Amer 1 a t e S t e a r i c a c i d , X X X G l y c e r y l monostearate, n e u t . Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1
P a r t 8: Propy lene g l y c o l T r ie thano lamine Water T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e , t a l c & pigments Perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e
4 . 5 % 0 . 9 2 . 7 1 . 8 4 . 5
4 . 5 0 . 9
7 0 . 2 1 0 . 0
q . s .
Procedure: Add P a r t 8 t o 85 C e l s i u s t o P a r t A a t 95 C e l s i u s w h i l e
s t i r r i n g . Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l t o 30 C e l s i u s . Add t o t h e m ic ron ized powder b l e n d i n inc rements , m i x i n g w e l l a f t e r each a d d i t i o n .
Water-in-Oil Lotion Makeup
Magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1 i c a t e De ion ized water Magnesi urn s u l f a t e T a l c Kaol i n T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e I r o n Oxides C a r n a t i o n Hydrogenated p o l y i sobutene Carna t ion (and) 1 anol i n a1 coho1 S o r b i t o l 70% I s o p r o p y l l a n o l a t e (and) l e c i t h i n Oleamide DEA P r e s e r v a t i v e
Percent 1 . 2
37 .9 0 . 4 1 . 5 1 . 5 5 . 0 3 . 0
1 5 . 0 8 . 0 8 . 0 5 . 0 7 . 0 2 . 5 q . s .
SOURCE: Wi tco Corp . : Pe t ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fa rmu la t i ons
54 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Eye Contour Balm
The s k i n around t h e eye i s t h i n n e r , more s e n s i t i v e and r a p i d l y shows t h e s i g n s o f a g i n g and f a t i g u e such as; Crow's f e e t , sagging s k i n , d a r k c i r c l e s and p u f f i n e s s . T h i s i s des igned u s i n g n a t u r e as a s t a r t i n g p o i n t . Much o f t h e p r o d u c t ' s a c t - i v i t y comes f rom m i l d l y r e f i n e d raw m a t e r i a l s t h a t keeps i n t a c t t h e n a t u r a l p r o p e r t i e s , p r o d u c i n g a non-oi l y , q u i c k p e n e t r a t i n g and f r a g r a n c e f r e e p r o d u c t . A low c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f s y n t h e t i c p r e s e r v a t i v e i s needed due t o t h e minor components o f a few o f t h e raw m a t e r i a l s . W i t h r e g u l a r use t h e appearance o f a g i n g w i l l be reduced.
O i l Phase: Sweet Almond O i 1 (Croda) P r o p o l i s Wax (Kos ter Keunen) R ice Bran O i l F i l t e r e d (Kos ter Keunen) S a f f l o w e r O i l ( A r i s t a ) Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Hydrogenated Castor O i l (CasChem) V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) V i t a m i n E (Roche) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) C e t y l s t e a r y l A lcoho l (P&G) Squalene ( P o l y e s t h e r ) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel )
Water Phase: Water (D i s t i 11 ed) Ginkgo B i l o b a ( V e r n i n ) A1 1 a n t o i n ( S u t t o n ) T r i e thano l ami ne (Dow) Xanthan Gum (Ke lco) Magnabr i te S ( W h i t t a k e r P o l y s o r b a t e 60 ( G e l l a r d Methy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
C & D) & S c h l e s i n g e r )
4 . 0 % 5.0% 4.0% 2.0% 1 .O% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 2.5% 1.5% 1.0% 2.0% 2 . 0 %
69.6% 0.5% 0.5% 1 .O% 1 .O% 0.4% 0 . 2 % 0.3%
Procedure:
under a g i t a t i o n and heat and homogenize t o 75C. Add o i l phase t o water phase under a g i t a t i o n . Cool and pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r a t 45 t o 50C.
Adapt ion o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :
f r e e o f s y n t h e t i c s p r e s e r v a t i v e s .
SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Mix and heat o i l phase t o 80C. Add components o f water phase
Wi th o n l y s l i g h t changes t h i s p r o d u c t can be a l l n a t u r a l and
Beauty Aids 55
Eye Mascara
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 2 . A-C Copolymer 540 3 . M i n e r a l S p i r i t s 4 . D i hydroabi e t y l A1 coho1 5 . C a n d e l i l l a Wax 6 . A1 umi num S t e a r a t e 7 . B u t y l Parahydroxy Benzoate 8 . I r o n Oxide
WL% 12.0
2 .0 68.0
5 . 0 2 . 4 0 . 5 0 .1
10 .0
Procedure:
d i s s o l v e d . Then s p r i n k l e w i t h s t i r r i n g 6 and 7; when a l l i s d i s s o l v e d , add 8 and shear w i t h homomixer o r g r i n d i n w i t h 3 r o l l m i l l .
M ix 1-5 and hea t w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l s o l i d waxes have
Eye Mascara
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . M i n e r a l S p i r i t s
3 . D i hyd roab i e t y l A l coho l 4 . C a n d e l i l l a Wax 5 . A1 umi num S t e a r a t e 6 . B u t y l Parahydroxy Benzoate 7 . I r o n Oxide
2 . A-C 617A
W B 70 12
5 2 . 4 0 . 5 0 . 1
10
Procedure:
d i s s o l v e d . Then s p r i n k l e w i t h s t i r r i n g 5 and 6, when a l l i s d i s s o l v e d add 7 and shear w i t h homomixer o r g r i n d i n w i t h a 3 r o l l M i l l .
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
M i x 1-4 and hea t w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l s o l i d waxes have
56 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Eye Mascara
T h i s f o r m u l a demonstrates t h e s t a b i l i t y , d i s p e r s i v e and r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a . The p r o d u c t i s q u i c k d r y i n g on t h e eye l a s h and uses a m u l t i - p h a s e emuls ion system. O i l Phase: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen) 15.0% G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel ) 3.5% Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2.0% I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) 1 .O% Propy l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) 0 . 3 % Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) 63.6% Sodium B o r a t e (Borax) 1.5% Propylene G l y c o l (Dow) 1 .O% Carboxy Methy l C e l l u l o s e (Hercu les) 0.2% Methy l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) 0 . 3 % A l c o h o l Phase: SDA-30 (Quantum) 9.0% P u r i f i e d B lack Oxide ( W h i t t a k e r ) 2 .6% Procedure:
M e l t Cera B e l l i n a t o a maximum o f 75C. Then add t h e r e s t o f t h e o i l phase w h i l e m i x i n g . Make s u r e a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e mel ted . I n a separa te vesse l d i s s o l v e t h e components of t h e water phase. Add t h e water phase t o t h e o i l phase, m a i n t a i n i n g t h e tempera ture o f 75C f o r approx imate ly 15 minu tes . A l l o w t o c o o l s l o w l y . When t h e temper&-ure i s 35-40C, add t h e a l c o h o l phase under h i g h shear A d a p t a t i o n o f fo rmula and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :
Changing t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f water ( i n c r e a s e ) and s o l i d s (decrease) by smal l amounts w i l l c o n t r o l t h e v i s c o s i t y . A v a r - i e t y of p igments can be s u b s t i t u t e d t o s u i t p r o d u c t s needs.
Eyeliner Stick/Pencil
T h i s p r o d u c t i n c o r p o r a t e s a l a r g e p igment l o a d a t t h e same t i m e as h a v i n g a smooth, even a p p l i c a t i o n t o t h e s k i n . The t e x t u r e i s r i d g e d , h i g h l y c o l o r e d f o r l o n g wear c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s , w i l l n o t b l e e d and i s v e r y s t a b l e . 1 . T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C & D ) 25.0% 2 . Ceres ine Wax 140/150 (Kos ter Keunen) 15.0% 3 . Red D&C #7 (Warner-Jenkinson) 12.5% 4 . P u r i f i e d Navy B lue ( W h i t t a k e r C & D ) 12.5% 5 . Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen) 10.0% 6. G l y c e r o l T r i o c t a n o a t e ( B a r n e t ) 10.0% 7. E thy lene G l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e (Henkel ) 5.0% 8 . G1 y c e r o l T r i behenate (Croda) 5.0% 9. Hydrogenated Castor O i l (CasChem) 5.0% Procedure:
Add 2,5,6,7,8 and 9 i n t o a v e s s e l . M e l t , mix and m a i n t a i n a tempera ture o f 75C, add 1,3 and 4 under h i g h shear . M a i n t a i n h i g h shear m i x i n g f o r 30-40 minu tes . Cool and pour i n t o molds.
Lower pigment l o a d and h i g h e r wax and o i l c o n c e n t r a t i o n s can be s u b s t i t u t e d so-as- to f a c i l i t a t e t h e g r e a t e s t c o s t e f f e c t i v e - ness and a t t h e same t i m e , produce a l u x u r i o u s p r o d u c t . SOURCE: Koster Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions
Beauty Aids 57
Face and Body Milk
A . M i g l y o l 840 I m w i t o r 900 Marlowet TA 6 Marlowet TA 25 Jo joba o i l Beeswax Propylene g l y c o l monostearate
B . K e l t r o l ge l 1% d-Panthenol USP Kar ion F Water
C . V i tam in E
D . Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e
Wt$ 12 .0 3 .0 1 .2 2 . 1 4.0 2 . 0 1 . o
15.0 3 . 0 5 . 6
t o 100.0
0 . 2
P r e p a r a t i o n : The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e added t o g e t h e r and heated t o
75-8OC. B . i s s t i r r e d w h i l e heated t o t h e same tempera ture . B . i s e m u l s i f i e d i n A . C . and D . a r e added a t approx. 30C. P r e p a r a t i o n o f t h e K e l t r o l g e l : K e l t r o l F 1 .O%
Water t o 100.0% Both components a r e added t o g e t h e r a t room tempera ture and s t i r r e d u n t i l t h e homogeneous mix forms a c l e a r g e l .
Lip Care Stick
. S o f t i s a n 100 Dynacer i n 660 M i g l y o l 812 S o f t i san 649 Vase1 i ne Beeswax Hard p a r a f f i n C e t y l a l c o h o l Carnauba wax
. A n t i o x i d a n t s Perfume
P r e p a r a t i o n : A l l i n g r e d i a n t s a r e mel ted , s t i r r e d t o a creamy
u n t i l c o l d , perfume i n c o r p o r a t e d b e f o r e c a s t i n g i n
SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmet
2 0 . 0 8 . 0 6 . 0 5 . 0
3 0 . 0 20.0
5 . 0 5 . 0 1 . o
qs a s
cons is tency o moulds.
cs: Formulas
58 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Face-Lotion
Ethano l 96% S o f t i g e n 767 Hamamel i s Spec Mar l owet R 4 0 / K G l y c e r o l Ampholyt J B 13
a1
Pant heno l Camomi 1 e Speci a1 Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
%
3 . 0 10.0 0 .3 2 . 0 0 . 2 0 .2 2 . 0
qs qs
t o 100.0
5 . 0
P r e p a r a t i o n :
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 .5 -6 .5 . The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
Skin Tonic Water without Alcohol
S o f t i g e n 767 1 ,2-Propyl ene g l y c o l Ex t rapon 3-Spec ia l A1 l a n t o i n Mar l owet R 4 0 / K Menthol V i t a m i n F Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
% 5 . 0 3 .0 4.0 0.5 0 . 5 0 . 3 0.2
qs qs
t o 100.0
P r e p a r a t i o n :
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5.5-6.5.
SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics:
The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
Suggested Formul a t i ons
Beauty Aids 59
Facial Cleanser
Weight,% Mackanate LO-Speci a1 ( D i sodi um Laury l Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) 88.0 Mackol 16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 B r i j 52 2.0 Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, Fragrance qs t o 100.0
S o l i d s , %: 40.0 pH (as i s ) : 5 .5 Appearance: P e a r l y Cream
Procedure: 1. Add Mackol 16, B r i j 52 and water t o Mackanate LO-Special
2 . 61 end u n t i 1 homogeneous. 3 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 .5 t o 6 .0 w i t h sodium hyd rox ide . 4. Cool t o 50 degress C . and add Mackstat DM and f rag rance . 5 . A d j u s t s o l i d t o 40.0+-1.0 a t t h i s p o i n t . 6 . Cool and f i l l .
and heat t o 70 degrees C .
Sting Free Facial Cleanser
Mackam 2C Sodium Laure th-1 S u l f a t e (25%) Mackerni um 007 Mackanate DC-30 Mackester SP Mackstat DM Water, Dye, Fragrance q . s . t o
Wei a h t .% 40 .0 15.0
1 .5 4 . 0 2 . 0 q . s .
100.0
Procedure: 1. Add Mackam 2C, Sodium Laure th-1 S u l f a t e , Mackanate DC-30 and
2 . Heat t o 70C. and b lend u n t i l homogeneous. 3 . Cool t o 50C. and s l o w l y add Mackernium 007. 4. When comp le te l y d ispersed, add t h e remain ing components.
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary
Mackester SP t o wa te r .
60 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Fluid Make-Up
A . M i g l y o l 812 M i g l y o l 840 I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s I m w i t o r 900 Mar loohor T 1 0 Na s a l t P a r a f f i n o i l
B . K e l t r o l g e l I%* Water Kar ion F G l y c e r o l
C . Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e
D . T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e T a l c Z i n c o x i d e Sicomet Brown 70 C, I
The i n a r e d i e n t s o f A P r e p a r a t i o n :
77491
W_m 7 . 0 5 . 0 3.0 2 . 0 2 .0 5.0 15.0 43.0 5.0 3.0
qs qs 3.0 3.0 3.0 1 . o
a r e me l ted and heated t o 75-8OC. The f i n e l y mixed pigments D . a r e homogenised t o g e t h e r w i t h A . The i n g r e d i e n t s o f B. a r e mixed, heated t o BOC and s l o w l y e m u l s i f i e d i n A . + D . Perfume i s added a t around 3 5 C .
*P repara t i on o f t h e K e l t r o l g e l : K e l t r o l F 1.0% Water t o 100.0%
The K e l t r o l i s mixed w i t h t h e water u n t i l homogeneous and t h e m i x t u r e s t i r r e d u n t i l t h e g e l i s c l e a r .
Compact Make-Up
A . M i g l y o l 812 M i g l y o l 840 I m w i t o r 900 S o f t i s a n 100 S o f t i s a n 649 Beeswax Hard p a r a f f i n S t e a r i c a c i d
8 . Sicomet Brown 70 C . I . 77491 Sicomet Brown 75 C . I. 77491 T a l c Z i n c o x i d e T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e
C. Perfume D. K a r i o n F Prepara t i on :
The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . and 0. a r e me l ted t o g e t h e r added t o t h e s t i r red -un t i l - homogeneous phase B. The aga in heated t o approx. 70C and s t i r r e d u n t i l c o l d . and t h e whole mix i s homogenised.
18 .0
8 . 0 10.0
10 .0 4.0 7.0 10.0 3.0 0.5 0.5 a . o 8 . 0 8 . 0
qs 5 . 0
and g r a d u a l l y mix i s t h e n C i s added
SOURCE: H u l s America Inc.: Formu la t i ons for Cosmetics: Formulas
Beauty Aids 61
Fluid Make Up
InQred ien tS: A ) C u t i n a GMS
Eumulgin E1 Eutanol G M i g l y o l 812 Phenoni p
E) Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d Euxyl K-200 C i t r i c a c i d Hyasol -BT Bentone EW Pigment p a s t e w h i t e : N r . 93975 Pigment p a s t e y e l l o w : N r . 75577 Pigment p a s t e red : N r . 68775 Pigment p a s t e b l a c k : N r . 78375
% w / w 4,OO 4 , O O
10; 00 6,OO 0,30
63,66 0,20 0 , 0 4 3,OO 0,60 5,OO 1,50 1,oo 0,40
C ) Perfume O i l : Beauty 01239870 0,30
Procedure: Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A ) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f water phase B) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase 8 ) t o phase A ) , c o o l t o 50C,
Then add phase C) and s t i r c o l d . homogenize and c o o l t o 30C.
A p p l i c a t i o n No. x 004.A/11.92
Regenerating Lipcare-Stick
I n s r e d i e n t s : 1 Wax premix No. 1 2 Pigments 3 A r l a c e l 582 4 I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea 5 P h y t a l u r o n a t e 6. C e p h a l i p i n
% w /w 72,25
7,60 10,oo 0,15 5,OO 5,OO
Procedure: M e l t Wax-Premix ( 1 ) a t 8QC i n t h e main-mixer w h i l e m i x i n g
w i t h padd les . I n c o r p o r a t e i t e m 2 and homogenize w e l l . M e l t a p a r t i t e m 3 a t 80C and s l o w l y add t h e preheated (80C)
i tems 4-6. Add t h e o b t a i n e d emuls ion (4-6) t o t h e pigmented wax-base
w h i l e m i x i n g a t 80C. Then pour i n t o t h e moulds.
A p p l i c a t i o n No. X 025.0/02.93
SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
62 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Gelled Aloe Vera with Sunscreen
I n g r e d i e n t s : A . D I water
Carbopol 940 A loe Veragel L i q u i d 1 : 1
B. T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
C . D I water Phenylbenzenimidazole S u l f o n i c A c i d T r i e thano l ami ne
D . DMDM Hydanto in
E. Disodium EDTA
Percent 81.18
0.92 2.3
10.0 2 . 0
t o pH 7 . 0
0 . 3
0 . 1
Procedure:
Add A loe Veragel e x t r a c t . N e u t r a l i z e w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . Combine C, add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e t o a d j u s t pH t o 7 . 0 . Add C t o n e u t r a l i z e d A (moderate a g i t a t i o n ) . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and c h e l a t i ng agent .
D isperse Carbopol r e s i n i n t o water (under h i g h a g i t a t i o n ) .
Aloe Vera Jelly
I n a r e d i e n t s : A . Water
C i t r i c A c i d ( g r a n u l a r ) G1 ydant Germal l 115 Versene-220 Propy l Gal 1 a t e
6. Propy l G l y c o l Xanthan Gum Aubygel x-125
C. A loe v e r a 200 powder
Percent 91.94
0 . 2 0 . 3 0 .25 0.05 0.05
4 .5 0 .75 1 . 5
0 .46
Procedure:
add Phase 0 t o A . M i x s l o w l y and c o o l t o 55C. Add phase C, and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Package a t between 35-45C.
SOURCE: D r . Madis L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat Phase A t o 80C. Pre mix Phase B w i t h good a g i t a t i o n and
Beauty Aids 63
Gentle Beauty Wash
T h i s e legan t beauty wash i s based on m i l d s u r f a c t a n t s t h a t r e s u l t i n a m i l d c l e a n s i n g p r o d u c t . I t s n o n - a l k a l i n e pH and combina t ion o f i n g r e d i e n t s a r e des igned t o l eave t h e s k i n c l e a n and smooth w i t h o u t harsh soap e f f e c t s .
M a t e r i a l s : 1 . De ion ized Water 2 . Propy lene G l y c o l 3. 50% Sodium Hydrox ide 4 . Bentone EW 5 . S t e a r i c Ac id , t r i p l e pressed 6 . Igepon AC78 7 . Sipon ESY 8 . S iponate DDB-40 9 . A l cona te SBR-3 10.Sodium Se th iona te 5 5 11 .Oxaban A 12 .Fragrance KU 70
% bv Weiqht 46.20
8 .00 0 . 6 0 0 . 4 0 8 . 0 0
11 - 0 0 11 .oo
5 . 0 0 2.50 6 .50 0 . 0 5 0 . 7 5
Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s :
i d e and p ropy lene g l y c o l w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . S t a r t h e a t i n g . Decrease a g i t a t i o n and add t h e s t e a r i c a c i d and Igepon AC78. Cont inue h e a t i n g u n t i l t h e Igepon AC78 has d i s s o l v e d (70 degrees C e l s i u s ) . Add t h e Sipon ESY, S iponate DDB-40, A l cona te SBR-3 and Sodium I s e t h i o n a t e 5 5 . S t a r t c o o l i n g . Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and f rag rance a t 35C. The v i s c o s i t y and p e a r l w i l l deve lop upon s t a n d i ng.
I n g r e d i e n t Label : Water, Sodium cocoy l i s e t h i o n a t e , S t e a r i c a c i d , Propylene
g l y c o l , Sodium i s e t h i o n a t e , Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , Sodium dodecyl benzene s u l f o n a t e , Disodium r i c i n o l e m i d o , MEA-sulfo- succ ina te , Fragrance, H e c t o r i t e , Sodium hyd rox ide , 4 ,4 -D imethy l - o x a z o l i d i n e , 3,4,4-Trimethyloxazolidine.
Phys ica l P r o p e r t i e s :
D isperse t h e Bentone EW i n t h e d e i o n i z e d wa te r , sodium hydrox-
pH: 5 .8 -6 .1 V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d LV4 @ 2 5 degrees C ( a t r e s t 12 h o u r s ) :
@ 3 RPMs 80,000-110,000 CP @ 6 RPMs 50,000- 70,000 CP @ 12 RPMs 30,000->50,000 CP
Appearance: White, pea r led , pumpable cream
SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Rhone Poulenc P ro to type Fo rmu la t i on 91-0401
64 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair and Skin Moisturizing Mist
A r e f r e s h i ng sp ray c o n t a i n i ng spec i a1 humectants t o r e p l e n i s h much needed m o i s t u r e t o h a i r and s k i n . Con ta ins Sodium PCA t o h e l p r e s t o r e normal m o i s t u r e ba lance and keep t h e s k i n young l o o k i n g and f r e s h . A l s o c o n t a i n s A loe Vera Gel and Panthenol t o soothe, c o n d i t i o n and p r o t e c t t h e s k i n and h a i r f rom d r y i n g o u t . Recommended f o r use under d r y c l i m a t i c cond- i t i o n s , d r y hea t o r d u r i n g sun exposure.
I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: P a r t A : Dei o n i zed Water P o l y q u a t e r n i um-4/Celquat H-100 C i t r i c A c i d P ropy lene G1 y c o l Methy lparaben
- %
91 . I 3 0 . 0 5 0.01 2 . 0 0 0 .20
P a r t B: Sodi um PCA/Aj i dew N-50 2.00 S o r b i t o l & Sodium L a c t a t e & P r o l i n e & Sodium PCA &
Hydro1 yzed Col 1 agen/Prodew 100 2.00 Pant henol 0 .10 A loe Vera Gel/Aquasol 104 1 . o o Dimeth icone Copolyol /Dow Corn ing 193 0 . 3 0 D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea/Germal 1 I I 0 . 2 0
P a r t C : Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate/Amisof t CT-12 P o l y s o r b a t e 20/Tween 20 Fragrance #X3110
0 I 5 0 0 . 5 0 0.01
Procedure: D i sperse Ce lqua t H100 i n t o r a p i d l y a g i t a t i ng d e i o n i zed wa te r .
Heat t o 70 degrees Cen t ig rade . Add rema in ing P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y c l e a r and u n i f o r m . S t a r t c o o l i n g . A t 50 degrees Cen t ig rade , add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x w e l l a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . Premix P a r t C . A t 40 degrees Cen t ig rade add premixed P a r t C t o P a r t A . Con t inue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 35 degrees Cen t ig rade .
Appearance: C l e a r , l i g h t y e l l o w , w a t e r - t h i n l i q u i d pH: 5.00-5.40
SOURCE: A j i nomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Beauty Aids 65
Hair and Skin Moisturizing Spray
A r e f r e s h i n g spray c o n t a i n i ng spec i a1 humectants t o r e p l e n i s h much needed m o i s t u r e t o h a i r and s k i n . Conta ins Sodium PCA t o h e l p r e s t o r e normal m o i s t u r e ba lance and keep t h e s k i n young and f r e s h , A l so c o n t a i n s A loe Vera Gel t o soothe dryness , and e m o l l i e n t s t o c o n d i t i o n and p r o t e c t t h e s k i n and h a i r f rom d r y i n g o u t . Recommended f o r use under d r y c l i m a t i c c o n d i t i o n s , d r y heat o r d u r i n g sun exposure.
I n s r e d i en t /T rade Name: P a r t A : De ion ized Water Sodi um PCA/Aj i dew N-50 A loe Vera Gel Deco lo r i zed l x D imeth icone Copolyol/Dow Corn ing 193 S u r f a c t a n t D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea/Germal 1 I I
P a r t 0 : Propylene G l y c o l Methylparaben
P a r t C : TEA-Cocoyl G lu tamate /Amiso f t C T - I 2
Procedure: Mix p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l e v e r y t h i n g s comp
o l v e d . Heat p a r t 0 t o 50 degrees Cen t ig rade and m i Add p a r t C . Mix w e l l .
Appearance: C lea r , c o l o r l e s s , w a t e r - t h i n l i q u i d . pH: 5 . 3 0 - 5 . 6 0
Hair Liquid (Soft Type)
% by Weiaht
8 8 . 9 5 3 .00 5 . 0 0 0 .30 0 . 1 0
e t e un
( 0 ) P y r o t e r GPI-25 2-Hexyldecyl A l coho l E t h y l A l coho l Methylparaben Perfume
( W ) A j i dew T-50 Water
Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e (0) and ( W ) s e p a r a t e l y a t room tempera ture
2 . Add ( W ) t o (0) w i t h s t i r r i n g . c l e a r s o l u t i ons.
pH: 7 . 0 V i s c o s i t y : 6 cps
SOURCE: Aj inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
2 . 0 0 0 . 1 5
0 . 5 0
y d i s s - il c l e a r
Wt% 9 . 0 1 . o
4 0 . 0 0 . 1 q . s .
4.0 4 5 . 9
t o be
66 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
High Shine Lipstick
High g loss , f i r m l i p s t i c k w i t h good m o i s t u r i z i n g q u a l i t i e s . L i q u e f i e s i n s t a n t l y t o an o i l , s l i p p e r y f i l m w h i l e d e p o s i t i n g v e r y l i t t l e sheer c o l o r and h i g h pear lescence.
Castor O i l Candel i 11 a Wax Ace tu lan Ross Wax 1275W Propy lene G l y c o l Mono laura te Lanogene Carnauba Wax Propy lparaben T i m i r o n MP-10 D & C Red #9 (31-3009) D & C Red #7 Ca Lake (3107) Pur . Navy B lue #7110 Fragrance
% 59 .4
8 .0 7 .5 5 . 0 5 .0 5 .0 2 . 0 0 .1 7 .0 0 . 6 0 . 3 0 .1 q . s
Procedures: G r i n d t h e pigments i n p a r t o f t h e Castor O i l u s i n g e i t h e r a
3 - r o l l m i l l o r m o r t a r / p e s t l e . Add a l l o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s (except f o r p e a r l e s c e n t pigment and f r a g r a n c e and hea t g e n t l y on steam b a t h t o 80-85C. Add p e a r l , m ix u n t i l homogeneous. Fragrance shou ld be added a t l owes t p o s s i b l e tempera ture . Cast i n t o molds.
Lipstick Formulation
Ross S y n t h e t i c C a n d e l i l l a Wax I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e L a n o l i n N.F. Ross Whi te Beeswax N.F. Ross R e f i n e d P a r a f f i n Wax 130/35 Ross Whi te O z o k e r i t e Wax 77W Cas to r O i l Pigment Teg . "P"
% 10.9 9 .5 4 .4 3 .3 2 .0 0 .9
54 .3 12 .0 0 . 1
*Formu1 a t i on developed by P r e c i s i o n Cosmetic o f Mount Vernon, NY, i n c o n j u n c t i o n w i t h t h e Frank 0 . Ross Company.
SOURCE: Frank B . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Beauty Aids 67
Lip Balm White
Rosswax 2639 M i n e r a l O i l #7 S o l a r Chem 0 Fragrance GP-58
% 8 5 . 0 13.5
1 . 5 q . s .
Procedure: M e l t a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o 19OF i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l .
M ix t h o r o u g h l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n , c o o l t o 165F, f r a g r a n c e and pour i n t o a c o n t a i n e r . Note: Capping may be necessary.
Lip Balm I
Castor O i l C r y s t a l 0 Emery IPP Emery 1723 Rosswax 2640 Acet u 1 an SDA A lcoho l #40 S o l a r Chem 0 Propylene G l y c o l Fragrance GP-58
%! 46.0 17.0 10 .4 19.6
2 . 5 2 . 0 1 . 5 1 . o q . s a
Procedure: M e l t a1 1 i n g r e d i e n t s t o 19OF i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l .
M ix t h o r o u g h l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 165F, f ragrance and pour i n t o a c o n t a i n e r . Note: Capping may be necessary.
Lip Balm II
Ross Base O i l 2539 Emery 1723 Rosswax 2641 SDA A l c o h o l #40 S o l a r Chem 0 Propylene G l y c o l Fragrance GP-58
%! 55.4 10.8 29.3
2 .0 1 . 5 1 . o q . s .
Procedure: M e l t a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o 19OF i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l . M ix
t h o r o u g h l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n , cool t o 165F, f r a g r a n c e and pour i n t o a c o n t a i n e r . Note: Capping may be necessary.
SOURCE: Frank 8 . R o s s C o . , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
68 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Lip Gloss (Souffle) M a t e r i a1 s: % by Wei u h t 1 . Beeswax 7 . 0 2 . Ceraphyl 140A 12.7 3. Propylparaben 0 . 1 4. Tenox 4 0 . 1 5. Bentone Gel LOX r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 70.0 6. Timeron Pear l Sheen MP-30 5 .0 7 . P i gment Concentrate** 0 . 4 8 . Perfume 0 . 2
Castor O i l 60 .0 C o l o r No. 3106 D&C Red No. 6 40.0
**Pigment Concent ra te
1 . Weigh i t e m 1 t h r o u g h 4 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e . Heat t o 85C u n t i l me l ted c l e a r .
2 . B r i n g tempera ture down t o 78C. Add and mix i n i t e m 5 u s i n g a homomixer a t medium speed. Mix f o r another t e n minu tes .
3 . A l l i t e m 6 and mix f o r f i v e minutes o r u n t i l d ispersed; t h e n add i t e m 7 and mix f o r another f i v e minu tes .
4. Cont inue m i x i n g a t medium speed and lower tempera ture t o 60C. Add i t e m 8 . Remove heat and s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l congealed o r pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r .
P i gment Concent r a t e P r e p a r a t i on : 1 . Weigh d r y powder i n t o c a s t o r o i 1 u s i n g a s low speed Hobar t
t y p e mixer u n t i l u n i f o r m . 2 . Give t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e two t o t h r e e passes over a t h r e e r o l l
m i l l a t room tempera ture .
Roll-On Lip Gloss M a t e r i a1 s : % by Wei a h t 1 . Sucrose A c e t a t e I s o b u t y r a t e 30.0 2 . I s o p r o p y l a n 33 44.5 3. Propy lparaben 0 . 1 4 . Tenox 4 0 . 1 5 . Bentone Gel LO1 r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 22.5 6 . Pigment c o n c e n t r a t e * 0 . 2 7. P e a r l Whi te 2 .5 8 . Perfume 0 . 1
*Pigment Concent ra te Castor O i l 60.00 C o l o r No. 3106 D&C Red No. 6 40.00
1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 t h r o u g h 7 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e . Heat t o 80C u n t i l me l ted c l e a r .
2 . B r i n g tempera ture down t o 75C; add and mix i n i t e m 5 u s i n g homomixer a t medium speed. Mix f o r 10 minu tes a t 75C.
3. Add i t e m 6 and mix f o r 5 minutes o r u n t i l d ispersed; t h e n add i t e m 7 and mix f o r another 5 minu tes .
4. Cont inue m i x i n g a t medium speed and lower tempera ture t o 60C. Add i t e m 8. Remove h e a t and a l l o w mass t o come t o room temp.
Pigment Concent ra te P r e p a r a t i o n : 1 . Weigh d r y powder i n t o t h e c a s t o r o i 1 u s i n g a s low speed
2, G i v e t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e two passes over a 3 r o l l m i l l a t
SOURCE: Rheox. I n c , : Formulas TS-135 & TS-184
Hobar t t y p e mixer u n t i l u n i f o r m .
room tempera ture .
Beauty Aids 69
T h i s p r o d u c t u t i 1 B e l l i n a t o produce a s i l k y l a s t i n g c o l o u r Phase A: Castor O i l (Caschem) Candel i 11 a Wax (Kos t Carnauba Wax (Kos ter
Lip Pencilzes t h e d i s p e r s i v e p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera produc t which g l i d e s on e a s i l y , leaves t h a t i s water r e s i s t a n t .
r Keunen) 51.5% 8.0%
Keunen) 7.0% M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax (Kos ter Keunen) 5.0% Ceres ine 130/135 Wax (Kos ter Keunen) 3 . 0 % M i n e r a l O i l (Wi tco) 3 .0% C e t y l A lcoho l (P&G) 1 . 5 % Phase B: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen) 8.0% I r o n Oxide Brown (Warner-Jenkinson) 2 .O% T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) 8 .0% D&C Red #6 ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) 3 .0%
Heat and mix Phase B, d i s p e r s i n g p igments and b r e a k i n g up v i s i b l e agg lomera t ion . Add Phase A t o Phase 8 , heat and mix t o g e t h e r under a g i t a t i o n . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 65C and pour i n t o molds. Changing t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f waxes and or o i l s w i l l s o f t e n and harden t h e p r o d u c t t o m a i n t a i n c o n s i s t e n c y when chang- i n g p igments and c o l o u r s . D i f f e r e n t p igments w i l l a f f e c t t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e base and i s compensated f o r w i t h changes i n c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f waxes and o i l s used, Sunscreens can a l s o be i n c o r p o r a t e d w i t h o u t d i f f i c u l t f o r m u l a changes.
New Look Lipstick T h i s r e d l i p s t i c k has a creamy t e x t u r e and i s l o n g wear ing.
The l i p s t i c k i s v e r y s t a b l e , a l t h o u g h i t has a h i g h o i l con- c e n t r a t i o n . By u s i n g s y n t h e t i c rep lacements o f n a t u r a l p r o d u c t s t h i s fo rmula i s o f v e r y low c o s t b u t l o o k s and per fo rms l i k e a h i g h end p r o d u c t . 1. NF Yel low Beeswax (Kos ter Keunen) 5 . 0 % 2 . S y n t h e t i c C a n d e l i l l a (Kos ter Keunen) 9.9% 3 . O z o k e r i t e 170 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 10.6% 4 . S y n t h e t i c Carnauba (Kos ter Keunen) 1 . 5 % 5 . Castor O i l (Caschem) 20 * 0% 6. P a r a f f i n O i l (Kydol -Wi tco) 15.3% 7 . E d i b l e Coconut O i l (Cocochem) 32.7% 8 . D&C Red #30 (Warner-Jenkinson) 4.5% 9 . T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C 8 D) 0.5%
Add 1 , 5 , 8 and 9 i n t o a vesse l l a r g e enough t h a t w i l l a l l o w t h e o t h e r components t o be added a f t e r t h e beeswax, c a s t o r o i l and p igments have been mel ted (75C.) and mixed t o g e t h e r w i t h t h e i n t e n t i o n o f b r e a k i n g down as many o f t h e v i s i b l e agg lomera t ions . A f t e r t h e v i s i b l e agg lomera t ions have been separated, add 2, 3 and 4 t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n w h i l e m i x i n g . I n c r e a s e t h e tempera ture s l i g h t l y i f needed t o m e l t t h e s y n t h e t i c carnauba. Then t h e remainder of t h e components can be added and mixed a t a temp- e r a t u r e o f 70C. A f t e r t h e p r o d u c t i s homogeneous use a shear mixer a t low speed f o r 45 t o 60 minutes, m a i n t a i n i n g a s i m i l a r tempera ture .
appearance o r per formance. Sunscreens a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d . SOURCE: Koster Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Formulat ions
S l i g h t changes i n o i l s and waxes w i l l n o t a l t e r t h e p r o d u c t s
70 Cosmetic and Toilehy Formulations
Lipstick
Dermacryl LT p r o v i d e s i nc reased m o i s t u r e p r o t e c t i o n , r u b - o f f r e s i s t a n c e and water r e s i s t a n c e .
I n q r e d i e n t s : %m Phase A : Eutanol G 6.00 P r i s o r i ne 351 5 20.00 Ceraphyl I C A 2 .70 Cera1 an 5.00 Dermacryl LT 2 .00
Phase B: F l u i l a n 10.00 Candel i 11 a Wax 12.00 O z o k e r i t e Wax 5 .00 C u t i n a LM 10.00 Drakeol 35 5.00 Tenox BHA 0 .10 Propy lparaben 0 . 2 0
Phase C: DC Red #6 ( D i s p e r s i o n i n Castor O i l ) 15.00 F1 amenco Superpear l 5.00
Phase D: Vi tamin E Ace ta te 1 .oo V i tam in E P a l m i t a t e 1 . o o
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n Dermacryl LT, mix u n t i l complete. Combine Phase B, heat t o 80C. Add Phase B t o Phase A a t 8OC, mix t h o r o u g h l y . Phase C: Mix pigments t o g e t h e r , add t o A and B a t 80C. Cool t o 80C. Add Phase D, mix t h o r o u g h l y . Pour i n t o molds and c o o l t o room tempera ture .
SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co. : Formula 7661-1448
Combine Phase A, except Dermacryl LT. Heat t o 80C. With good
Beauty Aids 71
Lipstick
A . S o f t i san 645 Dynacer i n 660 S o f t i s a n 100 M i g l y o l 812 Beeswax Eutano l G P r o s o l a l S9 PCL l i q u i d P r o t e g i n X
6 . Carnauba wax Castor o i l Hexylene g l y c o l S t e a r i c a c i d T i m i r on S t a r l u s t r e MP-115 Perfume o i l Tendresse
D . Co lou rs : P ink : Sicornet Rot P 15630 CA Red: Sicomet Rot P 15630 CA V i o l e t : Sicornet V i o l e t t P 77007 G
Wt% 1 0 . 0 8 . 0 7 .0 7 . 0
11.0 9 . 0 5.0 5 . 0 4 .0
9 . 0 6 . 0 3 . 0 2.0
1 0 . 0 1 . o
qs 0 . 5 3 . 0 0 . 5
P r e p a r a t i o n : A l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e heated t o 75C and homogenised w i t h a
h i g h speed s t i r r e r . The m i x i s poured i n t o moulds b e f o r e i t has go t c o l d .
Lip-Gloss
A . S o f t i s a n 645 S o f t i s a n 649 Rewopal P I B 1000 Lanf r a x Candel i 1 1 a wax
B. Pear l l u s t r e pigment* Co lour Perfume
Wt% 44.5 10.0 3 0 . 0 1 0 . 0 2 . 5
3 . 0 qs qs
*T im i ron S t a r l u s t r e MP 115
P r e p a r a t i o n :
i n g r e d i e n t s o f B. are mixed t o g e t h e r and added t o A . F i n a l l y , t h e m i x i s homogenised.
SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Formulas
A . i s me l ted a t 60C and s t i r r e d u n t i l coo led down t o 4 0 C . The
72 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Lipstick
M i g l y o l Gel 0 M i g l y o l 812 M i g l y o l 840 S o f t i g e n 701 P a r a f f i n o i l I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e Cas to r o i l Eutanol HD Carnauba wax Wool wax a l c o h o l Beeswax I m w i t o r 900 Oxynex 2004 Perfume o i l GC 10776 T a l c T i t a n i um d i o x i d e Z i n c o x i d e T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t r e MP-115 Flame Orange 5305 No. 5 C.11994 L o M i c r o n Tan 3088 C . 11997
w t % 10.0
7 .0 5 . 0 7 . 0 7.0 5 . 0 9 . 0 5 . 0 8 . 0 5 . 0
10.0 4.0 0 . 2 0 0 .28 3 . 0 3 . 0 3 . 0 5 . 0 1 . 7 3.0
P r e p a r a t i o n : A. i s mixed, E . i s added and heated t o 75-8OC. D i s f i n e l y
ground w i t h A , t h e b e i n g s t i r r e d i n t o 0 . i n smal l p o r t i o n s . Perfume i s added t o t h e mix and a t 60C. i t i s poured i n t o t h e mould, which i s n o t c o o l e d . The mix i s s e t by s t o r i n g t h e mould one hour i n a r e f r i g e r a t o r .
Lipstick, Glossy W B
A . M i g l y o l Gel 8 20.0 S o f t i s a n 645 15.0 I m w i t o r 780K 6 . 0 M i g l y o l 829 6 . 0 L a n f r a x 10 .0 Beeswax 5 . 0 Candel i 11 a wax 5 . 0 Cas to r o i l 4 . 5 Sodi um s t e a r a t e 1 . o
0 . Rewopal P I 0 1000 15.0 A n t i o x i d a n t s qs
C . Perfume qs D. Sicomet E r y t h r o s i n l a c k E 127 0 . 5
T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t r e MP-115 10.0 P r e p a r a t i o n :
A. and B. a r e mixed t o g e t h e r and heated t o approx. 8 0 C . 0. i s added and t h e mix i s homogenised. Perfume i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t approx. 30C.
SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Formulas
Beauty Aids 73
Lipstick
T h i s r e d l i p s t i c k has a creamy t e x t u r e and i s l o n g wear ing . The l i p s t i c k i s v e r y s t a b l e , a l t h o u g h i t has a h i g h o i l con- c e n t r a t i o n . Cera B e l l i n a a l l o w s f o r h i g h c o l o r a t i o n w i t h o u t l a r g e pigment l o a d and i m p a r t s a s a t i n l i k e f e e l t o t h e l i p s .
Formu 1 a : 1 . Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen) 2. C a n d e l i l l a (Kos ter Keunen) 3 . O z o k e r i t e 160/164 (Kos ter Keunen) 4 . Carnauba #1 Ye l low ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5 . Castor O i l (Caschem) 6 . P a r a f f i n O i l (Kydol -Wi tco) 7 . O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( I n o l e x ) 8 . Jo joba O i l ( J o j o b a Growers) 9 . V i t a m i n E (Freeman) l O . D & C Red #7 (Warner-Jenkinson) 1 l .Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 2 . T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C & D ) 13.Propyl Paraben ( S u t t o n )
16.70% 3.10% 4.20% 1.20%
43.45% 16.30% 6.20% 1 .OO% 0.50% 4.00% 3.00% 0.25% 0.10%
Procedure: Add 1, 10, 11, and 12 i n t o a vesse l l a r g e enough t h a t w i l l
a l l o w t h e o t h e r components t o be added a f t e r t h e Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax), Orange Wax and p igments have been mel ted (75C) and mixed t o g e t h e r w i t h t h e i n t e n t i o n o f b r e a k i n g down as many o f t h e v i s i b l e agg lomera t ions . A f t e r t h e v i s i b l e agg lomera t ions have been separa ted add 2, 3 and 4 t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n w h i l e m i x i n g . I n c r e a s e t h e tempera ture s l i g h t l y i f needed t o m e l t t h e carnauba. Then t h e remainder o f t h e components can be added and mixed a t a tempera ture o f 70C. A f t e r t h e p r o d u c t i s homogeneous, use a shear mixer a t low speed f o r 45 t o 60 minu tes , m a i n t a i n i n g a s i m i l a r tempera ture .
A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Other o i l s n a t u r a l o r s y n t h e t i c can e a s i l y be s u b s t i t u t e d
t o meet t h e f o r m u l a t o r s needs, c o s t , a v a i l a b i l i t y , e t c . w i t h o u t s i g n i f i c a n t l y changing t h e c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . H igher me1 t i n g p o i n t s can e a s i l y be ach ieved w i t h o n l y s l i g h t a l t e r a t i o n s i n wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n . B i o l o g i c a l l y a c t i v e compounds a r e e a s l i y i n c o r p - o r a t e d i n t o t h e fo rmulas . Depending on t h e d e s i r e d c o l o r and t h e b l e n d o f p igments used, t h e r e w i l l be a need f o r smal l i n g r e d i e n t c o n c e n t r a t i o n changes i n t h e fo rmula due t o t h e p i g m e n t ' s e f f e c t on t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e m i x t u r e .
SOURCE: Koster Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions
74 Cosmetic and Toiletry FormuZutions
Lipstick
A . Carnauba Wax Candel i 11 a Wax Beeswax Hydrogenated Castor O i l L i q u i d L a n o l i n M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne Wax 2-Octy ldodecanol 2-Octy ldodecy l Myr i s t a t e Castor O i l
8 . Pear l Pigment T i t a n i um D i o x i d e Amihope LL Red Oxide o f I r o n Organ ic P i gment (Red)
Procedure: 1 . M ix ( A ) and ( e ) , and d i s s o l v e a t 80C. 2 . Knead them w i t h a r o l l . 3. D i s s o l v e a t 80C. 4. Remove smal l bubb les i n a vacuum, and then p r e s s .
Note: T h i s l i p s t i c k has smooth touch, and spreads w e l l
5 2 . 0 6 .5 5 . 5 2 . 0
16.8 3 .0
15.0 10.0 23.2
4 :5 4 .5 3 . 5 1 . 3 2 . 2
Lipstick Formulae
The a d d i t i o n o f Eldew CL-301 r e s u l t s i n a p r e p a r a t i o n w i t h remarkable s p r e a d a b i l i t y , improved l u s t e r and e x c e l l e n t c o l o r w i t h o u t r e d u c i n g t h e s t r e n g t h .
A Castor O i l Candel i 11 a Carnauba O z o k e r i t e Capry l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e Eldew CL-301
B Mica Ye1 low i r o n o x i d e D&C Red #7 Amihope LL
SOURCE: A j inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions
5 55.0
4 .8 2 .0 4.0
15.0 5 .0
7 . 4 2 . 2 3.0 1 . 6
BeautyAids 75
Liquid Foundation
P a r t A : Hydroxypropyl Methy l C e l l u l o s e Magnabri t e Water T a l c
P a r t 0 : Cetea re th 15 Propylene G1 y c o l G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e C e t y l A l coho l I s o s t e a r i c A c i d C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1
P a r t C : T i t a n i um D i o x i d e I r o n Oxides
P a r t D : Germaben I 1
Weight% 0 . 4 0 . 4
56.26 3 .00
5 .00 5 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 4 . 0 0 4 . 0 0 6 .00
6.00 0 . 9 4
1 . o o
Procedure:
and s i f t i n t o v o r t e x o f water w i t h maximum shear . When d i spe rsed , add t a l c . Heat t o 80C. Add o i l phase, s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e and i r o n o x i d e s . M i l l t o d i s p e r s e p igments. Add D . Cool w i t h m i x i n g t o 32C.
Blend t o g e t h e r Magnabr i te and hyd roxyp ropy l methy l c e l l u l o s e
Powder Foundation
T a l c T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e S e r i c i t e S p h e r i c a l s i 1 i c a P o l y t e t r a f l u o r o e t h y l e n e powder Red i r o n o x i d e Ye l l ow i r o n o x i d e B1 ack i r o n o x i d e D i m e t h y l p o l y s i loxane C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 S o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e P r e s e r v a t i v e Fragrance
1 7 . 0 % 1 0 . 0 40.0 1 0 . 0 1 0 . 0 0 . 5 1 . 0 0 . 1 1 . o 9 . 0 1 . o 0 . 3 0 . 1
SOURCE: Wi tco Corp . : Pet ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
76 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Liquid Make-Up
T h i s f o r m u l a demonstrates t h e s t a b i l i t y , d i s p e r s i v e q u a l i t i e s and r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a i n a h i g h pigment load, v e g e t a b l e o i l and hydrocarbon o i l f r e e p r o d u c t . The produc t i s q u i c k d r y i n g on t h e s k i n l e a v i n g a s o f t v e l v e t l i k e f e e l , f o r a f l a w l e s s , l o n g wear ing n a t u r a l l o o k .
O i l Phase: I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen) S i l i c o n e O i 1 556 (Dow) Ceres ine Wax 130/135 (Kos ter Keunen) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Wi tco) E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF ( K o s t e r Keunen) PEG-1 00 S t e a r a t e ( L i po) Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Propy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
Water Phase: Water (D i s t i 1 l e d ) Sodium Hydrox ide ( A l d r i c h ) C i t r i c A c i d ( A l d r i c h ) Bermocal l E230 ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) Methy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
Pigment Phase: T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) I r o n Oxide Ye l low 7055 (Warner-Jenkinson) I r o n Oxide Brown 7058 (Warner-Jenkinson) Mica (Rona) I r o n Oxide Red 7067 (Warner-Jenkinson)
14.50% 6.00% 4 .50% 1.50% 0.80% 0.70% 0.50% 0.30% 0 * 20%
51 -05% 0 60% 0 .50% 0.20% 0.20%
13.50% 2.70% 1.20% 1.00% 0 .50%
Procedure: M e l t o i l phase t o a maximum o f 75C and mix, making s u r e a l l
i n g r e d i e n t s a r e mel ted . I n a s e p a r a t e vesse l d i s s o l v e t h e comp- onents o f t h e water phase. Add t h e o i l phase t o t h e water phase, m a i n t a i n i n g t h e tempera ture o f 75C f o r approx imate ly 15 m i n u t e s . A l l o w t o c o o l s l o w l y . When t h e tempera ture i s 55 t o 60C, add t h e pigment phase under h i g h shear .
A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Changing t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s of water ( i n c r e a s e ) and s o l i d s
(decrease) by smal l amounts w i l l c o n t r o l t h e v i s c o s i t y . A v a r i e t y o f p igments can be s u b s t i t u t e d t o s u i t p r o d u c t s needs.
SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Beauty Aids 77
Liquid Makeup M a t e r i a l s : 1 . T a l c 1623 2 . 328 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e CTFA
% bv Wei q h t 5 . 0 0 5 . 0 0
3 . C o l o r No. 3170 Pur Oxy Ye l l ow B.C. 0 . 4 0 4 . C o l o r No. 3315 Pur Oxy Umber B . C . 0 .20 5 . C o l o r No. 2511 Lo-Micron P i n k B . C . 0 . 4 0 6 . Water ( d e i o n i z e d ) 79.95 7 . Methy lparaben 0 .25 8 . Propy lene G l y c o l 5 . 0 0 9 . Cerasynt 840 2.00 10.Bentone LT r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 1 . 5 0 11.Perfume 0 . 3 0 Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . P a r t 1 - I n a powder b l e n d e r , add i t e m s 1 th rough 5 and mix
t o g e t h e r f o r 20 m inu tes . Remove powder f rom b l e n d e r and p u t t h rough a m i c r o p u l v e r i z e r .
heat t o 65C. Us ing a homomixer a t medium speed, add and m ix i n i t e m 10. Con t inue m i x i n g f o r 20 t o 30 minutes u n t i l comp le te l y d i spersed.
2 . P a r t 2-Add i t ems 6 th rough 9 t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l vesse l and
3 . Cool P a r t 2 t o 40C and add and mix i n i tern 11. 4 . W i t h con t inuous m i x i n g a t medium speed, add P a r t 1 t o P a r t 2
and mix t o g e t h e r f o r 15 m inu tes . 5 . Put e n t i r e m i x t u r e th rough a c o l l o i d m i l l f o r u n i f o r m pigment
g r i n d i n g . Formula TS-116
Silky Facial MaskM a t e r i a l s : % bv Weight P a r t A : 1 . D . I . Water 76.3 2 . Propy lene G l y c o l 5 . 0 3. M i r a n o l 2MHT Modi f i e d 3 . 0 4 . Methy l Paraben 0 . 1 P a r t B : 5 . P a r i c i n 9 2 . 0 6 . I s o p r o p y l a n 50 4 . 0 7 . P ropy l Paraben 0 . 1 P a r t C : 8 . Bentone MA Rheo log ica l A d d i t i v e 4 . 0 9 . Z i n c Oxide 3 . 0 10.328 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 2.5 Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 th rough 4 i n t o a s t a i n l e e s s s t e e l steam j a c k e t e d
k e t t l e . Heat P a r t A t o 6%. 2 . I n a separa te vesse l , add i t e m s 5 th rough 7 and hea t t o 6 5 C .
Mix u n t i 1 c o m p l e t e l y me l ted and homogeneous. 3 . M ix P a r t B s l o w l y i n t o P a r t A w h i l e m i x i n g . M i x f o r 15 t o 20
m i n . , and b r i n g tempera tu re down t o 55C w h i l e m i x i n g . 4 . M i x P a r t C s e p a r a t e l y u s i n g a homomixer and add t o above
m i x t u r e w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M ix i t f o r 15 m inu tes . M a i n t a i n tempera tu re and pass th rough C o l l o i d M i l l .
Formula TS-252 SOURCE: Rhone Poulenc I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
78 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Lotion Scrub P a r t A: W X 4 Water 36.2 A l o e Vera Gel 1 . o Germaben I 1 1 . 8 Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e ( 1 ) 1 . o P a r t B: G l y c o l S t e a r a t e ( 2 ) 5 . 0 S a f f 1 ower O i 1 0 .5 Sesame O i l 0 . 5 Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (3) 0 . 5 P a r t C : Sodium L a u r y l E t h e r S u l f a t e ( 4 ) 2 0 . 0 Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 4 ) 18 .0 Cocamide DEA ( 5 ) 0 . 5 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ( 6 ) 5 . 0 P a r t D: Acuscrub 44 10 .0 Procedure:
S l o w l y add t h i c k e n e r ( 2 ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Heat t o 70C. S e p a r a t e l y combine P a r t B and P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s , t h e n add t o P a r t A, m i x i n g w e l l between a d d i t i o n s . A t 50C, modera te l y add Acuscrub 44 and s t i r u n t i l smooth & u n i - f o r m .
1 . Veegum 2 . Emerest 2350 3 . Methocel 40-100 4. S ipon ES, S ipon LCP 5 . N i n o l 49-CE 6 . Lexaine C
Lotion Hand Scrub
P a r t A : Sodi um C14-16 01 e f i n Sul f o n a t e ( 1 ) 30.0 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (2) 6 . 7 Cocamide DEA ( 3 ) 2 . 0 G1 y c o l S t e a r a t e I . o Ammoni um Chl o r i de 2 . 5 Germaben I 1 0 . 8 Water 5 0 . 0 P a r t 8 : Hyd ro l yzed Animal P r o t e i n ( 4 ) 2 . 0 P a r t C : Acuscrub 44 5 . 0 Procedure:
Heat wa te r t o 70C, t h e n s l o w l y add rema in ing P a r t A i n g r e d - i e n t s . Cool t o 55C, add P a r t 0 w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add P a r t C w i t h a g i t a t i o n and m ix u n t i l homogeneous.
( 1 ) W i t cona te AOS ( 3 ) N i n o l 49-CE (2) Lexa ine C (4 ) C r o t e i n SPA
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Beauty Aids 79
Low Cost, Extended Wear Lipstick
R e s u l t i n g l i p s t i c k has e x c e p t i o n a l sh ine , adherence and wear a t t r i b u t e s . When a p p l i e d t o l i p s , t h e f o r m u l a produces a comfo r tab le non-waxy f i l m , wh ich r e s i s t s m i g r a t i o n and f e a t h e r i n g . The shade o f t h i s fo rmu la i s a c lean , t r u e , h i g h chroma r e d w i t h moderate o p a c i t y .
Cas tor O i l NF ( C r y s t a l 0) C a n d e l i l l a Wax (S&P 75) Carnauba Wax (S&P #1 Ye l l ow 73) M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax (S&P 18) Beeswax (S&P Whi te NF 422P) Tocopherol (Copherol F-1300) Propy lparaben (Lexgard P) Buty lparaben (Lexgard B)
D&C Red No. 6 Bar ium Lake, C I #15850:2 (C19-012) D&C Red No. 7 Calc ium Lake, C I #15850:1 (C19-011) FD&C Ye l l ow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, C I #19140:1
Castor O i l ( C r y s t a l 0) (C65-4429)
w 61.66
8 .30 2.05 4.20 1 . 8 7 0.12 0 . 0 8 0 .05
1 .38 0 .97
2.74 11 -88
C . G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer
Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A" h e a t i n g t o 9OC. M ix s l o w l y (be s u r e n o t
t o e n t r a p a i r ) u n t i l t h e phase i s c l e a r and homogeneous, t h e n reduce tempera ture t o 80 t o 85C. Cont inue s low m i x i n g .
2. D ispe rse p igments i n s e c t i o n "B'l i n t h e c a s t o r o i l c o n t a i n - ed i n Phase "Btr by add ing t h e d r y pigments t o t h e c a s t o r o i l and b l e n d i n g w i t h a s p a t u l a , t h e n d i s p e r s e u s i n g a Cowles d i s s o l v e r and f i n a l l y pass t h e b l e n d th rough a t h r e e r o l l e r m i l l t h r e e t i m e s or u n t i l t h e p a r t i c l e s i z e o f t h e p igments a r e l e s s t h a n number 7 on a Haggeman gauge.
3 . When s e c t i o n "B" i s adequate1 y d i spersed, add s e c t i o n "B" t o s e c t i o n " A " . Cont inue s low a g i t a t i o n and m a i n t a i n a tempera ture o f 80 t o 85C.
4. When s e c t i o n s "AB" i s homogenous add s e c t i o n "C" t o "AB". M a i n t a i n a tempera ture o f 80 t o 85C and mix s l o w l y u n t i l homogeneous.
(Lexorez 100) 4.70
5 . Mold s t i c k s a t 80-85C.
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical CO. : Fo rmu la t i on 398-152-1
80 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Low Cost Lipstick R e s u l t i n g l i p s t i c k i s a low c o s t f o r m u l a t i o n t h a t exh b i t s
good a p p l i c a t i o n c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s and i s c o m f o r t a b l e on 1 p s . W e a r a b i l i t y o f t h e l i p s t i c k i s l i m i t e d . F e a t h e r i n g and rn g r a t i o n o f t h e l i p s t i c k f i l m would be expected. The shade of t h i s f o r m u l a i s a c l e a n , t r u e , h i g h chroma r e d w i t h moderate o p a c i t y .
%w/w A . Cas tor O i l NF ( C r y s t a l 0) 66.36
C a n d e l i l l a Wax (S&P 75) 8.30 Carnauba Wax (S&P #1 Ye l low 73) 2.05 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax (S&P 18) 4.20 Beeswax (S&P White NF 422P) 1 . 8 7 Tocopherol (Copherol F-1300) 0.12 Propylparaben (Lexgard P ) 0 . 0 8 Buty lparaben (Lexgard 8) 0.05
8. D&C Red No. 6 Bar ium Lake, C I #15850:2 (C19-012) 1 . 3 8 D&C Red No. 7 Calc ium Lake, C I #15850:1 (C19-011) 0.97 FD&C Y e l l o w No. 5 Aluminum Lake, C I #19140:1
(C65-4429) 2 .74 Castor O i l ( C r y s t a l 0) 11 - 8 8
Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n " A " h e a t i n g t o QOC. Mix s l o w l y (be sure
n o t t o e n t r a p a i r ) u n t i l t h e phase i s c l e a r and homogeneous, t h a n reduce tempera ture t o 80 t o 85C. Cont inue s low m i x i n g .
2 . D isperse p igments i n s e c t i o n "8" i n t h e c a s t o r o i l c o n t a i n e d i n phase "0" by adding t h e d r y p igments t o t h e c a s t o r o i l and b l e n d i n g w i t h a s p a t u l a , then d i s p e r s e u s i n g a Cowles d i s s o l v e r and f i n a l l y pass t h e b l e n d t h r o u g h a t h r e e r o l l e r m i l l t h r e e t i m e s o r u n t i l t h e p a r t i c l e s i z e o f t h e p igments a r e l e s s t h a n number 7 on a Haggeman gauge.
3 . When s e c t i o n "B" i s adequate ly d i s p e r s e d , add s e c t i o n "6" t o s e c t i o n " A " . Cont inue s low a g i t a t i o n and m a i n t a i n a tempera- t u r e o f 80 t o 85C.
4 . Mold s t i c k s a t 80-85C. Formula 398-152-2
Lip Balm R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a p r o t e c t i v e l i p balm t h a t e x h i b i t s
extended wear. c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s due t o Lexorez 100. The p r o d u c t c o u l d be p o s i t i o n e d as an over t h e c o u n t e r (OTC) pharmaceut ica l s k i n p r o t e c t a n t w i t h p e t r o l a t u m as t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t , and as a sunscreen, w i t h o c t y l methoxycinnamate as t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t
%Jy.& O c t y l Methoxycinnamate ( E s c a l o l 557) 10 .00 P e t r o l a t u m USP (Super Whi te) 20 .00 G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer
(Lexorez 100) 10.00 P e t r o l a t u m (and) Lanol i n A lcoho l (Lexate PX) 49.00 C a n d e l i l l a Wax (S&P 75) 8 .00 Carnauba Wax (S&P #1 Y e l l o w 73) 3.00 Procedure: 1 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and heat t o 80C. 2 . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. 3. Cool t o 65C and f i l l i n t o p r o p e l - r e p e l c o n t a i n e r s .
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Go. : Suggested Formula t ions Formula 383-186
BeauvAids 81
Makeup Foundation
T h i s r i c h , e l e g a n t f o u n d a t i o n i n c o r p o r a t e s Geahlene 750 f o r added m o i s t u r i z a t i o n and smooth a p p l i c a t i o n .
I n s r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Dei o n i zed Water Magnesium Aluminum S i l i ca te /Veegum U l t r a Xakthan Gum/Kel t r o l Ny lon- l2 /Orgaso l 2002D N a t u r a l E x t r a Cos Sodi um P C A / A j i dew N-50
Dei o n i zed Water Propy lene G l y c o l Iron Oxides (and) Ta Ic /Lo M i c r o n P i n k I r o n Oxides (and) Ta lc /Lo Mic ron Ye l low I r o n Oxides (and) Ta lc /Lo Mic ron B lack T i t a n i um O i o x i de/3328 T i t a n i um D i o x i d e
G l y c e r y l Stearate/Lexemul 55G S t e a r i c Ac i d/Emersol 132 DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amphisol Methy lparaben (and) Buty lparaben (and)
E thy lparaben (and) Propy lparaben/N ipas ta t I s o s t e a r y l Neopentanoate/Dermol 185 M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Buty lene/Ethy lene/
S ty rene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Ethy lene/ Propy lene/Styrene Copolymer//Geahlene 750
-
Phenoxyethanol/Emeressence 1160 Tocopherol Aceta te /V i tamin E Aceta te
Weight% 46.50 0.80 0 .30 1 . 2 0 1 . o o
10.00 7 .00 0 .40 2 . 0 0 0 .15 5.60
2.00 2.00 2 . 0 0
0 . 2 5 3 . 0 0
15.00 0.70 0 . 1 0
Procedure:
Mix w e l l . Add t h e remain ing p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s , m i x i n g w e l l a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r , homogenize p a r t B u n t i l smooth. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . Heat t o 8OC. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat p a r t C t o 8OC and mix u n t i l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t C t o p a r t A . M ix f o r 30 minu tes u n t i l homogeneous. Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 35C.
SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
D i sperse Veegum U1 t r a i n t o r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i zed w a t e r .
82 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Mascara
A . Veegum pharm Ty lose CB 30000 1,2-Propylene g l y c o l Water
B . M i g l y o l Gel B I m w i t o r 780 K Beeswax M i g l y o l 812 Sicomet B lack 80 C . 1
C . Morpho1 i ne Colophonium L u v i s k o l VA 64 Ethano l 96% Prese rva t i ve
P r e p a r a t i o n : The i n a r e d i e n t s o f A
77499
Wt% 2 . 0 0 . 1 1 . 5
6 3 . 0
1 0 . 4 3 . 0 5 . 0 2 .0 4 .0
0 . 4 1 .5
5 . 0 qs
,2 . 0
a r e b rough t t o g e t h e r and heated t o 75-80C. Those o f B . a r e ’ b r o u g h t t o t h e same tempera ture and
n A . and 8 . a t approx . 3 0 C . homogenised. A . i s e m u l s i f i e d i n B .
C . i s d i s s o l v e d and e m u l s i f i e d
A .
B.
C .
Eyebrow Pencil, Heat Stable
S o f t i s a n 100 S o f t i s a n 378 M i g l y o l 812 S o f t i s a n 645 S o f t i s a n 154 Beeswax
T a l c T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e Z i n c o x i d e Sicomet B lack 80 C . 1
Perfume
77499
WtS/o 1 6 . 0
8 . 0 8 .0 3 .0 2 .0 3 . 0
20.0 18 .0 18 .0
5 . 0
qs
Prepara t i on : The i n g r e d i e n t s o f B. a r e v e r y f i n e l y ground. The f a t s A .
a r e me l ted and s t i r r e d s l o w l y i n t o t h e p igments , Perfume i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t around 3 0 C . T h i s i s f o l l o w e d by p o u r i n g i n t o moulds o r e x t r u s i o n .
SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Formulas
Beaury Aids 83
Moisture Stick Base
M i n e r a l O i 1 80/90 V i sc. Ross Wax 26-1152 Ross Wax 15-1 182 Ross Wax 1824 Jo joba O i l Amer la te P V i t a m i n E
% 47 .0 2 8 . 0
2.0 1 0 . 0
2 . 0 10.0
1 . o
Procedure: M e l t a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r i n a k e t t l e t o 170F under
a g i t a t i o n . When mixed t h o r o u g h l y pour i n t o molds. Capping may be necessary.
Cream Rouge Formula
P a r t A : Ross R e f i n e d #1 Ye l low Carnauba Wax Ross O z o k e r i t e Wax 77W M i n e r a l O i l I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e
P a r t B: T a l c T i t a n i um D i o x i d e C o l o r
% 6 .0
1 0 . 0 2 4 . 0 27.0
10.0 2 0 . 0
3 . 0
Procedure:
t h r e e r o l l m i l l . M e l t P a r t A t o 70C. When c o o l e d r u n t o g e t h e r w i t h P a r t 0 on a
Pot Eyeshadow
I n q r e d i e n t s : M i n e r a l O i l 70/80 P e t r o l a t u m Ross O z o k e r i t e Wax 77W Ross Ref i ned Candel i 11 a L i g h t F1 akes Pigment Paste P r e s e r v a t i v e
% 40.0 15.0 20.0
4 . 0 20.0
1 . o
Procedure: G r i n d c o l o r w i t h o i l and p e t r o l a t u m i n r o l l e r m i l l . Heat
waxes u n t i l m e l t e d and add pigment p a s t e . M a i n t a i n 85C f o r 30 minutes w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Pour i n t o molds.
SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
84 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisturizing Liposomal Gel
I n a r e d i e n t s : 1 A) Cremophor RH 410 2 Fragrance: PCV 1454
3 B ) 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
Water demi n e r a l i zed G l y c e r i n N i pag i n
P h y t a l u r o n a t e F i t o b r o s i de A1 1 a n t o i n Carbopol 941 T r i e thanolami ne
Euxy l K-200
% w/w 5,00 0,10
81,50 2,00 0,15 0,30 5,00 5,00 0,30 0,30 0,35
Procedure: D i s s o l v e i t e m 2 i n i t e m 1 . D i s s o l v e i tems 4-9 i n water ( 3 ) . Under s t i r r i n g , s l o w l y add phase B ) t o phase A ) . For t h i c k e n -
i n g , i n c o r p o r a t e and d i s s o l v e i t e m 10. A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h i t e m 11 t o 7 . 0 . A t u r b i d , f l u i d s o l u t i o n i s o b t a i n e d . A p p l i c a t i o n No. D 018.A/02.93
Skin Tightening Gel
I na r ed i e n t s : 1 A) Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d 2 Phenoni p
4 Glucam E-10
5 B ) Carbopol 940 6 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
7 C ) Pentacare HP
Procedure:
3 Euxy l K-200
D i s s o l v e i t e m s 2-4 i n water ( 1 ) . S t i r f a s t and i n c o r p o r a t e i t e m 5. N e u t r a l i z e and t h i c k e n i t e m 6. S l o w l y add i t e m 7.
A p p l i c a t i o n No. D 032.0/06.93
SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : Suggested Formula t ions
% w / w 87 I 95
0;30 0,20 5,00
0,75 0,80
5,00
Beauty Aids 85
Moisturizing Make-Up Foundation
( A ) P h o s p h o l i p i d SV 0 . 5 % Kelzan AR i n 1% NaCl Propy lene G1 y c o l Pigment (9/12 White/Brown) S tea re th -20 Methy l Paraben
(B) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e Hexyl Lau ra te S tea re th -2 Dow F l u i d 200/100 c s . P ropy l Paraben
% BY Weiaht 3 . 0
64 .5 8 . 0
1 5 . 0 1 . 6 0 .25
2 . 0 2 . 0 2 . 4 1 . o 0 . 2 5
Procedure:
55C. B lend phase B i n t o phase A w i t h s u f f i c i e n t homogenizat ion t o ensure good e m u l s i f i c a t i o n . S t i r c o o l t o 40C, add f r a g r a n c e , and package.
Comments: T h i s l i q u i d f o u n d a t i o n i s enhanced by t h e presence o f Phos-
p h o l i p i d EFA which a i d s i n b i n d i n g t h e pigment t o s k i n f o r a l o n g e r l a s t i n g a p p l i c a t i o n . F u r t h e r b e n e f i t s o b t a i n e d by u s i n g Phosphol i p i d EFA i n c l ude a smooth, non-chal ky app l i c a t i o n and a non-d ry ing a f t e r f e e l on t h e s k i n .
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n phases A and B as shown and hea t t o
Skin Cleanser
Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e ( 1 mole 25%) Monamate LNT-40 Monamid 716 Phosphol i p i d PTC Water Sodi um C h l o r i d e
% By Weiaht 28.00 1 2 . 5 0
3 . 0 0 2.50
52.75 1 .25
Procedure:
A d j u s t pH t o 5 .5 -6 .0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Add c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e as r e q u i r e d . Package.
T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :
B lend i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d a t room tempera tu re .
Appearance: C l e a r l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y : Approx ima te l y 3 , 0 0 0 cps
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
86 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisturizing Milk with High Electrolyte Content
I n a r e d i e n t s : A A r l a t o n e 985
B r i j 721 M ine ra l o i l Capry l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e s
B Propy lene g l y c o l Urea Sodium c h l o r i d e Water
s/ow/w 4.00 2 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 5 .00
3.80 10.00
5.00 65.20
C * P r e s e r v a t i v e *Perfume
* q q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat (A) and (B) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S low ly add (B) t o (A)
s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e . Remove f rom t h e homogenizer and a l l o w t o coo l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (C) and coo l t o 30C. Package.
W/O Hydrating Body Milk
I n a r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 1689
Ar lamol HD Ar lamol M812 Ar lamol DOA P a r a f f i n o i l
B G l y c e r o l MgS04.7H20 * P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
%w/w 3 . 5 0 8 .00 4.00 4 .00 5 . 5 0
4 . 0 0 0.50
70.35
C Perfume 0 .15
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure:
s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e f o r one m inu te . A l l o w t o coo l t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (C) and w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Package.
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat (A) and (B) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S low ly add (B ) t o (A)
Beauty Aids 87
Nail Polish Remover
E t h y l a c e t a t e B u t y l a c e t a t e D r i v e r o n S D i o n i l OC/K So lven t APV B u t y l t r i gl y c o l
WtO/o 2 5 . 0 2 5 . 0 2 3 . 0 1 0 . 0 1 0 . 0
7 . 0
Prepara t i on :
s t i r r e d u n t i 1 homogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e added t o each o t h e r i n sequence and
Nail Polish Remover
E t h y l a c e t a t e V e s t i n o l C E t h y l t r i g l y c o l Cas tor o i l P a r a f f i n o i l
Wt% 5 0 . 0 28.0 1 0 . 0 1 0 . 0
2 . 0
P r e p a r a t i o n :
u n t i l homogeneous.
SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Formulas
The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e added t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
88 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Non-Feathering Extended Wear Lipstick
o r t a b l e non-waxy f i ng. Droop p o i n t o f
R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a moldab le l i p s t i c k w i t h e x c e p t i o n a l sh ine , a p p l i c a t i o n and extended wea a t t r i b u t e s . When a p l i e d
m , he
t o l i p s , t h e fo rmu la produces a corn wh ich r e s i s t s m i g r a t i o n and f e a t h e r s t i c k i s above 43C.
QS t o A . Cas tor O i l ( C r y s t a l 0) C a n d e l i l l a Wax (S&P 75) Carnauba Wax (S&P #1 Ye l l ow 73) M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax (S&P 18)
100 8 .23 2 .07 4.19
Beeswax- (S&P Wh i te NF-422P) 1 .08 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 1.09 P e t r o l a t u m (and) L a n o l i n A l coho l (Lexa te PX) 2.01 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Lexo l GT-865) 1.08 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Lexo l EHS) 2.06 Propy lene G l y c o l D i c r a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e (Lexo l PG-865) 1 .06 S i l i c a (Cab-0-Si1 M-5) 0 .13
Propy lparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .08 B u t y l paraben (Lexgard B) 0.05 G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer
(Lexorez 100) 4.77
Tocopherol (Copherol F-1300) 0 .12
B . Pigments 5.00-1'3.00
Procedure: 1 . Combine s u f f i c i e n t c a s t o r o i l f r om s e c t i o n "A" w i t h p igments
2 . D i spe rse p igments i n s t e p number 1, f i r s t w i t h a Cowles
i n s e c t i o n lfB't i n a r a t i o o f app rox ima te l y 2 p a r t s c a s t o r o i l t o 1 p a r t p igments .
d i s s o l v e r , t h e n reduce t h e pigment p a r t i c l e s i z e t o l e s s t h a n number 7 on a Haggeman gauge by pass ing t h e d i s p e r s i o n th rough a t h r e e r o l l e r m i l l .
3 . Combine t h e ba lance o f i n g r e d i e n t s i n s e c t i o n "A" , h e a t i n g
4. Beg in a g i t a t i o n as soon as waxes b e g i n t o m e l t . A g i t a t e s l o w l y . Do n o t e n t r a p a i r .
5. When s e c t i o n "A" i s homogeneous and a t 85-90C, add s e c t i o n "Bll t o s e c t i o n " A " .
6. Pour i n t o molds a t 80-85C.
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co.: Formula 398-62-2
t o 85-9OC.
Beauty Aids 89
Oil/Water Matte Cream Makeup
Ingr ed i en t s : A Magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1 i c a t e
Sodium c a r b o x y m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e Water, d e i on i zed
B D i s p e r s i n g agent Propy lene g l y c o l Water
C T a l c K a o l i n T i t a n i um d i o x i d e
D I r o n o x i d e s I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e
2.60 0.40
42.40
0 .30 5.00
12.30
18.50 1.30 3.70
1 . 5 0 5 . 0 0
E A r l a c e l 20 and Tween 20 3 . 0 0
F S t e a r y l a l c o h o l and Amer ichol 4 .00
Procedure:
u n t i l smooth. M i c r o p u l v e r i z e (C) and add t o ( B ) . M i l l t o o b t a i n a smooth p a s t e . Add (8-C) t o (A) and heat t o 65C. Heat (D,E,F) t o 70C and add t o (A,B,C) b l e n d . Mix u n t i 1 c o o l .
B lend d r y i n g r e d i e n t s o f ( A ) and add t o water s l o w l y a g i t a t i n g
Lip Balm
I n s r e d i e n t s : w A S y n t h e t i c Spermacet i 10 .00
P e t r o l a t u m 40 I 00 G1 y c e r o l monostearate 26.00 Capry l i c/Capr i c T r i g l y c e r i d e , Neobee M-5 13.60 Squalane, Robane 10.00
B A l l a n t o i n Lemon o i l , USP Menthol
0.20 0 . 1 0 0 . 1 0
Procedure:
Pour i n molds.
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
M e l t ( A ) u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add ( 6 ) and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous.
90 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Oil-In-Water Milk Emulsion
I n g r e d i e n t s : A A r l a t o n e 985
B r i j 721 Capry l i c /cap r i c t r i g 1 y c e r i des Ar lamol HD
B Propy lene g l y c o l G-2330 Water
C * P r e s e r v a t i v e *Perfume
* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
o/ow/w 4.00 2 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 5 .00
1 . 2 5 1 .25
81.50
Procedure:
s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e when emuls ion reaches approx ima te l y 40C. Add (C) below 35C. F o r m u l a t i o n F41-3-2
Heat (A) and (B) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add ( 8 ) t o ( A )
Oil-In-Water Milk Emulsion
I n g r e d i e n t s : A A r l a t o n e 985
B r i j 721 Ar lamol S 7 M i n e r a l o i l
B G-2330 Water
%w/w 4.00 2 . 0 0 6 . 0 0 5 . 0 0
4.00 79.00
C * P r e s e r v a t i v e *Perfume
* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat ( A ) and (B) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add (B) t o (A)
s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e . Remove f rom t h e homogenizer and a l l o w t o coo l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (C) and c o o l t o 30C. Package. Formula F44-6-4
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Beauty Ai& 91
One Coat Mascara
T h i s i s a l o n g wearing, n o n - f l a k i n g mascara wh ich c o a t s t h e l ashes even ly i n one c o a t . The f o r m u l a t i o n separa tes l ashes e a s i l y d u r i n g a p p l i c a t i o n and does n o t clump. The f o r m u l a t i o n does n o t f l a k e d u r i n g wear and has t h e a d d i t i o n a l b e n e f i t o f washing o f f e a s i l y w i t h o u t t h e need f o r t h e use o f s p e c i a l eye make-up removers o r harsh sc rubb ing .
%w/w A . De ion ized Water 57.70
Col l o i d a l Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e (Veegum HV) 1.80 H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (QP-15,000-H) 2.70
Pigment (Pur Oxy Ye l l ow BC and Pur Oxy B lack BC) 8.95 Methylparaben (Lexgard M) 0.18
Xanthan Gum ( K e l t r o l T ) 4.45
Propy lparaben (Lexgard P ) 0.09
8 . PVP/VA Copolymer ( L u v i s k o l 73W) I m i dazol i d i n y l Urea (Germal l 11 5 ) Te t rasod ium EDTA (Hamp-ene Na4)
10.00 0 .20 0.08
C . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 2 . 0 0 Beeswax NF (S&P Whi te NF 422P) 4.75 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 3.50 G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer
(Lexorez 100) 3 . 5 0 S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e NF ( A r l a c e l 60) 0.10
Procedure: 1 . Combine "A" except f o r t h e pigments and hea t t o 80-85C.
When tempera ture i s reached, homogenize m i x t u r e s l o w l y add ing p i gments.
2 . Combine l'C1' and heat t o 80-85C. S low ly add t o "A" . 3 . M ix "AC" f o r f i v e m inu tes . Add r lBr l t o "AC" and homogenize
f o r f i f t e e n minu tes on medium speed w h i l e c o o l i n g . 4. A t 60C t r a n s f e r ba tch t o t a n k equipped w i t h a d o u b l e - a c t i o n
side-sweep a g i t a t o r . Mix and coo l t o room tempera ture . 5. A d j u s t s o l i d s l e v e l t o 59.1+-0.1%. S o l i d s were r u n i n a l l O C
oven f o r one hour .
SOURCE: Inolex Chemical Co. : Formu la t i on 383-185
92 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
o f h e a l t h y p r o v i d e mo
Overnight Facial Moisturizer
A power fu l m o i s t u r i z e r des igned t o r e s t o r e t h e normal s t a t e s k i n . The h i g h s u b s t a n t i v i t y towards s k i n h e l p s t o s t u r e r e g u l a t i o n .
P a r t A : Phosphol i p
G l y c e r i n Water
P a r t B: Steare th -2
PEG-32 d EFA
C e t e a r y l A1 coho1 C e t y l P a l m i t a t e M y r i s t y 1 Myr i s t a t e I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e D i meth i cone ( 1 OOcS)
% by Weight 4 .00 2.00 2.00
73.00
2.50 4.00 4 . 0 0 4.00 3 .00 1 .50
B lend and hea t b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y t o 70C. Homogenize ( B ) i n t o (A) w i t h c o n t i n u e d hea t f o r an a p p r o p r i a t e t i m e w h i l e a v o i d i n g a e r a t i o n . S t i r - c o o l t o 45-50C, t h e n add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r i n g , o r p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d and f i l l .
Moisturizing Make-Up Foundation
An e l e g a n t p r o d u c t c o n t a i n i ng Phosphol i p i d EFA which p r o v i d e s smooth f e e l and coverage w h i l e e l i m i n a t i n g t h e normal d r y i n g e f f e c t s o f cosmet i c p igments on s k i n .
P a r t A : Phosphol i p i d EFA 0 .5% Kelzan AR i n 0.1% NaCl Pigment Steareth-20 Me thy l Paraben
P a r t 8: I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e Hexyl L a u r a t e S tea re th -2 D i m e t h y l p o l y s i l o x a n e (2OOcS) P ropy l Paraben
Oh By Weisht 3 . 0 0
72.50 15.00
1 . 8 0 0 . 2 5
2.00 2.00 2.40 1 . o o 0 . 2 5
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y and hea t t o 65C. Homogenize P a r t A t h o r o u g h l y . Add (B) t o (A) and c o n t i n u e t o homogenize. S t i r - c o o l , w i t h min imal a e r a t i o n , t o 40C, t h e n f i l l .
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : PHOSPHOLIPID EFA: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids 93
O/W Cleansing Milk
I n q r e d i en ts : A A r l a t o n e 985
B r i j 721 Ar lamol HD
B A t l a s G-2330 * P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
C Perfume
w 4 . 0 0 2 .00
10.00
3 . 0 0
80.90
0 .10
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure:
s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e f o r one m inu te . A l l o w t o cool t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (C) and w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Package.
Heat (A) and ( B ) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S low ly add (B) t o (A)
W/O Cleansing Milk
I n g r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 780
Ar lamol S7 Ar lamol HD
B A r l a s G-2330 MgS04. H20 * P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
C Perfume
?g!yy 6.00 6.00
10.00
4 . 0 0 0 .70
73.15
0.15
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
Heat (A) and (B ) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S low ly add ( 8 ) t o (A) Procedure:
s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e f o r one m inu te . A1 low t o coo l t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (C) and w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Package.
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
94 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Cleansing Milk
I n g r e d i e n t s : A P a r a f f i n o i l p e r l i q u i d u m
Ar lamol E
B A r l a t o n e 2121 Propy lene g l y c o l G l y c e r o l * P r e s e r v a t i v e
C Water Carbomer 934 (3% w / w mas te rge l )
D *NaOH (10% w / w s o l u t i o n ) t o a d j u s t pH t o 6 .5 -7
E *Perfume
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
%w/w 1 5 . 0 0
3 .00
2 .00 1 .25 1 .25
7 2 I 50 5 . 0 0
Procedure: Mix t h e A r l a t o n e 2121 i n t h e water phase a t 80C under moderate
s t i r r i n g u n t i l a homogenous d i s p e r s i o n i s formed. D isperse t h e h y d r o c o l l o i d i n t h e heated water phase a t 75C w i t h moderate s t i r - r i n g . Add t h e o i l phase (RT) t o t h e water phase w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e between 75 and 65C. Energy i n p u t i s r e l a t e d t o f i n a l f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 40C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Homogenise aga in i f add ing a d d i t i o n a l i n g r e d i e n t s . e . g . perfume, v i t a m i n s , . . . . . .
Dry Skin Oil with Alcohol
I n g r e d i e n t s : A r l a c e l 186 Ar lamol E E thano l , SDA-40, (190 P r o o f ) Cyclomethicone
%w/w 30.00 30.00 30.00 10.00
Procedure:
warm t h e A r l a c e l 186 t o ach ieve c l a r i t y b e f o r e m i x i n g . Formula CP 1049
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Mix a l l i n g r e d i e n t s w e l l a t room tempera tu re . I f necessary
BeautyAids 95
Petroleum Oil/Petroleum Wax Free Lipstick
T h i s l i p s t i c k i s a creamy s t i c k t h a t d o e s n ' t use any p e t r o l - eum o i l s o r waxes i n t h e f o r m u l a nor does i t use any s y n t h e t i c raw m a t e r i a l s t h a t has pe t ro leum base p r o d u c t s i n i t .
O i l Phase I: 1. Kes ter Wax 100 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2. C a n d e l i l l a (Kos ter Keunen) 3 . Hydroxy P o l y e s t e r (Kos ter Keunen) 4. Hexanedio l Behenyl Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5. Cocoa B u t t e r 6 . Shea B u t t e r (Kos ter Keunen) 7 . Squalane (Centerchem) 8 . R ice Bran O i l (Kos ter Keunen) 9 . O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( I n o l ex) 10.Coconut O i l ( A l n o r ) 11 . V i t a m i n E (BASF) 1 2 . V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) 13.Wheat Germ O i l ( L i p o ) 14.Sweet Almond O i l ( L i p o ) 1 5 . I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) 1 6 . 0 y s t e r Nut O i l (Kos ter Keunen) 17 .Castor O i l (Caschem) 1 8 . E t h o x y l a t e d Carnauba ( K o s t e r Keunen) 19.0range Wax (Kos ter Keunen) 20.T i02 (WC&D) 21.Z-Cote (Sunsmart) 22. Pigment 23.Beta Glucan 15% Coarse ( K o s t e r Keunen)
6.00 7 .00 3.70 4 . 0 0 3.00 4.50 1.50 4.00 3 .00 5 .50 0.10 0.10 1.50 1.50
15.50 1 . 5 0
20.00 1.30 5.50 2.50 5.00 2 . 8 0 0.50
Procedure: Add 20,21 and 22 t o g e t h e r . To t h e m i x t u r e o f p igments add
17, 18, and 19, heat t i l l e v e r y t h i n g i s d i s p e r s e d . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s except t h e Beta Glucan. The Beta Glucan w i l l be added l a s t t o t h e ba tch , j u s t b e f o r e p o u r i n g i n t o t h e molds.
Adapt ion o f fo rmula and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Wi th t he i n c r e a s e o r decrease of o i l s and/or waxes one c o u l d
c r e a t e a s t i c k t h a t i s c reamier o r h a r d e r .
SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions
96 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pressed Powder Eye Shadow (Pearlescent Type)
I n G r e d i e n t s : ( 1 ) B e n t o n i t e ( N F grade) ( 2 ) Mearl i n-AC ( 3 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC ( 4 ) Z i n c S t e a r a t e ( f i n e ground) ( 5 ) Magnesium Carbonate ( 6 ) Ace to l ( 7 ) Po lyso rba te 20 ( 8 ) Deion ized Water
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure:
"/.by Weight 5 . 0
Dry mix ( l ) , ( 2 ) , ( 3 ) , (4), and ( 5 ) . I n separa te t a n k , t h o r o u g h l y mix ( 6 ) , ( 7 ) , and ( 8 ) . Then s l o w l y add t h i s mix
3 5 . 0 29 .0
8 . 0 1 . o 3 . 0 9 . 0 0 . 0 q . s
u r e t o t h e d r y m ix . Screen th rough a No. 16 s i e v e and p r e s s .
p roduc t used. Fo l l ow recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each
Face Mask
n a r e d i e n t s : 1 ) De ion ized Water 2 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF g rade)
( 3 ) K a o l i n USP ( 4 ) I s o p r o p y l A l coho l ( 5 ) L a n o l i n (PEG 50) ( 6 ) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Emerest 2000) ( 7 ) Dimethicone ( D o w Corn ing 200) ( 8 ) Phenoxyethanol (Emmenessence) ( 9 ) Methy l Paraben (10 )Propy l Paraben
% bv Weight 3 6 . 7
8 . 0 4 0 . 0 10.0
0 . 5 1 . 5 1 . 5 1 . 5 0 . 2 0 . 1
Procedure: Add ( 2 ) t o ( 1 ) and heat t o SOC, add ( 9 ) and (10) u n t i l
d i s s o l v e d . Add ( 5 ) , ( 6 ) , ( 7 ) , and ( 8 ) . Cool and add ( 4 ) w i t h good m i x i n g u n t i l d i spe rsed . Add ( 3 ) and c o n t i n u e h i g h speed m i x i n g u n t i l comp le te l y u n i f o r m .
each p roduc t used.
f 1 ammable i n g r e d i e n t s .
SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f
Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s shou ld be used when h a n d l i n g
BeautyAids 97
Pressed Powder Eyeshadow
Phase A : T a l c Z inc S t e a r a t e Carmi ne Gemtone Mauve Quar tz Flamenco Super B l u e A n t i m i c r o b i a l
Phase B : A n t i o x i dant Squal ane Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i l
Phase C : Flemenco Super B lue
S/oWt. 40.40
4 . 0 0 2 .00
1 9 . 0 0 12 .60
a . s
q . s . 5 .00 7 . 0 0
1 0 . 0 0
Procedure: Thoroughly b l e n d and d i s p e r s e A . Add B i n t o a suppor t v e s s e l ,
heat and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Spray B i n t o premixed A and c o n t i n u e b l e n d i n g . P u l v e r i z e and r e t u r n t o b l e n d e r . Add C t o A-B and mix u n t i 1 u n i f o r m .
Molded Eye Shadow
Polytetrafluorethylene-treated mica Mica T i tan: urn-di o x i de-coated mica Co lo ran t D imethy l p o l y s i 1 oxane Carna t ion M ine ra l O i 1 G l y c e r y l t r i o c t a n o a t e Fragrance Ethano l
Cosmetic Aerosol Foam
PEG-2 s t e a r y l e t h e r PEG-10 s t e a r y l e t h e r Carna t ion M ine ra l O i 1 I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e Octy ldodecano l C e t y l A1 coho1 Water Propel 1 ant=N20
%Wt. 5 0 . 0 27 .0 1 0 . 0
3 . 0 4 . 0 3.0 3.0 0 . 1
q * s . 100.0
4.50% 1.50 7 . 0 0 7 . 0 0 6 . 5 0 0 . 5 0
qs t o 100.00
SOURCE: W i t co Corp . : Petroleum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
98 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pressed Powder with 1% Eldew
I n g r e d i e n t : T a l c Supra A Ny lon 12 L e c i t h i n T rea ted S e r i c i t e L e c i t h i n T rea ted Mica Lauroy l L y s i ne/Ami hope LL Z i n c S t e a r a t e I s o p r o p y l Lanol a t e Hydroxy la ted Lanol i n I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroy l Glutamate/
Eldew CL-301 B u t y l S t e a r a t e Germal l I 1 Methylparaben Propy lparaben Cosmetic Brown 3277 Cosmetic Brown 1985 Cosmetic Brown 1654 D & C Red 30 Lake
Pressed Powder with 3% Eldew
I n p r e d i e n t : T a l c Supra A Ny lon 12 Lec i t h i n T rea ted S e r i c i t e L e c i t h i n T rea ted Mica Lauroy l Lysine/Ami hope LL Z i n c S t e a r a t e I s o p r o p y l Lano la te Hydroxy la ted Lanol i n I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroy l Glutamate/
Eldew CL-301 B u t y l S t e a r a t e Germal l 11 Methylparaben Propy lparaben Cosmetic Brown 3277 Cosmetic Brown 1985 Cosmetic Brown 1654 D & C Red 30 Lake
% bv Weight 53.54 10.00 10.00 10.00 5.00 3.00 2.70 1.50 1.20
1 . oo 0.60 0.30 0.20 0.10 0.34 0.32 0.18 0.02
% bv Weight 52.49 9.80 9.80 9.80 4.90 2.94 2 I 65 1.47 1.18
2.95 0.59 0.29 0.20 0.10 0.33 0.31 0.18 0.02
SOURCE: A j inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Beaury Aids 99
Prolonged Skin Moisturizer
Emulsion Pha* Spermaceti Beeswax Carna t ion M ine ra l O i l Behenyl a l c o h o l P r e s e r v a t i v e s E l a s t i n h y d r o l y s a t e 1 , 3 b u t y l ene g l y c o l Carboxymethy l ch i t i n Water
L i posome Phase : Soy l e c i t h i n S p h i n g o g l y c o l i p i d s P h y t o s t e r o l G1 y c e r i ne V i t a m i n A
3 .00% 2 .00
15.00 5 .00 0 . 3 0 2 .oo
1 0 . 0 0 0.50
53.20
2 . 0 0 1 . o o 0 .50 5 . 0 0
Skin Lightening Composition
Polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene c e t y l e t h e r 1.00% S i l i c o n e o i l 2 .00 B lando l M i n e r a l O i l 3 . 0 0 Propylene g l y c o l 5 . 0 0 E-Ami nocapro i c a c i d 1 . 0 0 G l y c e r i n 2 . 0 0 E t h y l a l c o h o l 5 .00 Carbomer 0 . 3 0 Hydroxypropy l c e l l u l o s e 0 .10 2-Aminomethylpropanol 0 . 1 0 Asco rb i c a c i d d i s u l f a t e - s o d i u m s a l t 1 . o o P r e s e r v a t i v e , a n t i o x i d a n t , f rag rance q . s . Water q . s . t o 100 .00
Three Layer Facial Moisturizer
Sodium p y r r o l i d o n e c a r b o x y l a t e (50%) G1 y c e r i n Po lyoxye thy lene g l y c e r y l monooleate Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1
10.00% 20.00 20.00 50,OO
SOURCE: W i t co Corp. : Pet ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
100 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Purifying Clay Face Mask
T h i s p r o d u c t removes imbedded i m p u r i t i e s which smoothes s k i n , c l e a n s pores , b r i n g s a glow and removes d u l l i n g c e l l s f o r a f i n e r t e x t u r e so s k i n has a r a d i a n t g low.
Phase A : Magnabr i te S ( W h i t t a k e r & D) Xanthan Gum (Ke lko) Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) G l y c e r i n (Unichema) A loe Vera Gel ( A c t i v e Organ ics) Propy l ene G1 y c o l (Arco) Tween 60 ( G a l l a r d S c h l e s i n g e r ) Methy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
Phase 0: E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF ( K o s t e r Keunen) C e t y l s t e a r y l A lcoho l (P&G) Kes ter Wax K-48 (Spermacet i , Kos ter Keunen) Propy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
Phase C: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax: Kos ter Keunen) Green Chromium Oxide (Sun Chemical ) T i tan: urn D i o x i d e (Whi t t a k e r C&D)
Phase D: T i t a n i um D i o x i d e (Whi t t a k e r C&D) Vanclay ( V a n d e r b i l t )
4.5% 0 . 2 %
63.2% 4.0% 0.5% 1 . 5 % 0.6% 0 .5%
5.0% 0 .5% 2.0% 0.5%
4 . 5 % 0.5% 2.0%
4 . 0 % 6.0%
Procedure: Heat and mix t i l l homogeneous, Phase A t o 80C. Heat and mix
Phase 6 t o 80C. Heat and mix Phase C t i l l p igments a r e d i s p e r s e d . Mix Phase 6 w i t h Phase C, add BC t o A a t 80C under a g i t a t i o n . When e m u l s i f i e d , s p r i n k l e a mixed Phase D i n t o ABC and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g t i l l t h o r o u g h l y d ispersed, a l l o w t o c o o l w h i l e m i x i n g . Pour a t 55-60C.
Adapt ion o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Changes i n c l a y c o n c e n t r a t i o n will reduce o r i n c r e a s e d r y i n g
t i m e on t h e s k i n , which a l s o changes t h e r e s p e c t i v e p u r i f y i n g q u a l i t i e s toward t h e s k i n . M o i s t u r i z i n g agents and or o t h e r a c t i v e s can be added t o enhance t h e p r o p e r t i e s o f t h i s p r o d u c t .
SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids 101
Slenderizing Cream with Green Tea Extract
T h i s s l e n d e r i z i n g cream i n c o r p o r a t e s P h y t ' i o d and I o d o b i o 45. T h i s l i p o l i t i c p r o d u c t develops an e l e c t i v e m e t a b o l i c a c t i o n a t t h e l e v e l o f a d i p o c y t e s t h r o u g h t h e i n h i b i t i o n o f t h e phospho- d i e s t e r a s e . T h i s i n h i b i t i o n b l o c k s t h e d e g r a d a t i o n o f t h e c y c l i c AMP which i s i n d i s p e n s a b l e t o t h e p r o t e i n k i n a s e a c t i v a t i o n . The k i n a s e p r o t e i n s a c t i v a t e t h e l i p a s e which t r i g g e r a degrad- a t i o n o f t h e t r i g l y c e r i d e s i n t h e adipose c e l l i n t h e fo rm of f a t t y a c i d s and g l y c e r o l and t h e n e l m i n a t e d .
I n g r e d i e n t s : A . U n i t i n a KD-16
Eumulgin B-1 Lexol I P M C a r n a t i o n w h i t e m i n e r a l o i 1 Tocopherol T r i s e p t P
B. De ion ized Water T r i s e p t M
C . I v y E x t r a c t Seaweed E x t r a c t Organi c S i 1 i c o n
D . De ion ized Water I o d o b i o 45 Green Tea E x t r a c t
T r i s e p t I U E. Deion ized Water
F. P h y t ' i o d
% 16.00
1 . o o 8.00 6.00 0.01 0 .10
48.49 0 . 2 0 3 . 0 0 2 .00 1 . o o 6.00 2 . 0 0 1 . 0 0 2.00 0.20 3.00
Procedure:
A t o 8 . A t 50C, add phase C . D i s s o l v e I o d o b i o 45 i n w a t e r . A t 40C, add phase D, E and F.
Heat phase A and B t o 75-80C. Under p roper a g i t a t i o n , add
Amidroxy Sugar Cane Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s : A . C i rami N 1
Jo joba O i l Sunf 1 ower O i 1 T r i s e p t P
8 . De ion ized Water T r i s e p t M
C . Tensami 3/06 D. Tocopherol E . Amidroxy Sugar Cane F. G r a p e f r u i t E s s e n t i a l O i l
% 11.50 10.00 5 .00 0.10
61 - 9 4 0 . 1 5 3 .00 0.01 8 .00 0 .30
Procedure:
p roper a g i t a t i o n . Add phase C . A t 35C-40C add phase D, phase E and phase F. M ix t o room tempera ture . A d j u s t pH t o 3.50.
SOURCE: T R I - K I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Code AMI Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat phase A and phase B t o 70C. Add phase A t o phase B w i t h
102 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Soothing Body GelA c l e a r , v i scous g e l w i t h mic roencapsu la ted V i t a m i n E des igned
t o p r o v i d e s k i n c o n d i t i o n i n g and s o o t h i n g p r o p e r t i e s . I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Weiaht% A M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Buty lene/Ethy lene/
S ty rene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Ethy lene/ Propy lene/Styrene Copolymer//Geahlene 750 78.82
B Cyclomethicone/Dow Corn ing 344 F l u i d 7 .00
B i s a b o l o l , s y n t h e t i c 0.30 Methoxypropanediol/Cooling Agent No. 10 0 .50 Fragrance 0 .15 Menthol 0 . 0 3 Corn O i l (and) R e t i n y l P a l m i t a t e / V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e
Sunf lower O i l (and) Chamomile Ext ract /Chamomi le LS 0 . 5 0
C12-15 A1 k y l Benzoate /F inso lv TN 10.00
t y p e PIMO/BH 0 .10
C Macademi a Nut O i 1 /Ref ined Macademi a Nut O i 1 2 .00 Propylparaben 0 .10
D Tocopherol Aceta te (and) Acacia (and) G e l a t i n (and) Mica (and) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (and) I r o n Oxides/ /Microencapsulated V i t a m i n E HC487 0 .50
Procedure: Premix B. Add B t o A w h i l e m i x i n g a t moderate speed. Heat
C t o 60C u n t i l c l e a r . Add C t o A . M ix u n t i l comple te ly homo- geneous. Add D (pre-washed w i t h anhydrous e t h a n o l ) and g e n t l y mix i n t o A u n t i l u n i f o r m l y d i s p e r s e d . SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Anhydrous Deep Penetrating GelSimple b u t e f f e c t i v e i s a way t o d e s c r i b e t h i s q u i c k pene-
t r a t i n g p r o d u c t . Use o f t h i s g e l w i l l d i m i n i s h t h e s i g n s o f ag ing by c o n d i t i o n i n g and t r e a t i n g t h e s k i n w i t h a n t i - i n f l a m m a - t o r y agents . The a c t i v i t y comes f rom p h y t o s t e r o l s and b i o f l a v - on ides i n orange wax. These c l a s s o f chemica ls a r e a l s o s t r o n g a n t i - o x i d a n t s which w i l l scavenge f r e e r a d i c a l s t h e r e b y p r e v e n t - i ng p o t e n t i a1 premature ag ing . S i l i c o n e O i l 556 56.0% I P P (Unichema) 5.0%
Cera A l b a l a t e 103 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 14.0% Squalane ( P o l y e s t h e r ) 10.0%
A p r i c o t O i l ( A r i s t a ) 2.0% Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 10.0% V i t . A P a l m i t a t e (Roche) 0.5% V i t . E (BASF) 0.5% C a n d e l i l l a Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2.0% Procedure:
M e l t and mix a l l components t o 70C, c o o l t o 60C and pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r . Adapt ion o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e m c e on t h e p r o d u c t :
T r i g l y c e r i d e o i l s can o n l y be use s p a r i n g l y , s i n c e i n c o r p o r - a t i o n a t any s i g n i f i c a n t c o n c e n t r a t i o n w i l l d e s t r o y t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e Hydroxy-Hexanyl-Behenyl-Beeswaxate (Cera A l b a l a t e 103) . Cera A l b a l a t e 103 i s a h i g h l y e f f e c t i v e g e l l i n g agent f o r v e r y low v i s c o s i t y o i l s , as i s i n d i c a t e d above. SOURCE: Koster Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
BeautyAids 103
Stick Type Lip Gloss
Mater i a1 s : 1 . O z o k e r i t e White 170 2 . C a n d e l i l l a Wax L i g h t Re f ined 3 . Carnauba Wax Ye l l ow USP #1 4 . Ceraphyl 50 5 . Lanogene 6. Ace to l 1706 7 . F l e x r i c i n 9 8 . Bentone Gel CAO 9. Lexol PG 8/10 1 0 . I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e 11. Propy l Paraben 12.Tenox 4 13.Pigment Concent ra te* 14 .Fragrance
*Pigment Concent ra te : Cas tor O i l D&C Red #21 Aluminum Lake Cosmetic Brown C-33 115
% by Wei q h t 7 . 5 9 . 5 2 . 5 3 . 0 5 . 0
11 .5 10 .0 27.5 12 .8
5 . 0 0 . 1 0 . 1 5 .0 0 . 5
75.00 15.00 10 .00
Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Weigh i t ems 1 th rough 12 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d
k e t t l e . Heat t o 85C u n t i l me l ted c l e a r . 2 . B r i n g tempera ture down t o 80C. Add and mix i n i t e m 13 u s i n g
homomixer a t medium speed. M ix f o r 10 minu tes a t 80C. 3 . Cont inue m i x i n g a t medium speed, lower tempera ture t o 70C, and
add i t e m 14. Remove heat and s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l congealed, o r pour i n t o t r a y s .
s low a g i t a t i o n ( a v o i d a i r en t rapmen t ) . Note: For a sh iny p o l i s h e d s u r f a c e on t h e l i p - g l o s s , t h e
s t i c k s shou ld be s u r f a c e f lamed.
4 . When c a s t i n g , m e l t and pour mo l ten mass i n t o mold a t 75C w i t h
Pigment Concent ra te P r e p a r a t i o n : 1 . Weigh d r y powder and mix t o t h e c a s t o r o i l u s i n g a s low speed
2 . G ive t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e two passes ove r a 3 r o l l e r m i l l a t room
SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Formula TS-286
Hobart t y p e m i x t u r e u n t i l u n i f o r m .
tempera tu re .
104 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Thickening Mascara
T h i s i s a l o n g wear ing, n o n - f l a k i n g and t h i c k e n i n g mascara fo rmula . T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n a p p l i e s e f f o r t l e s s l y , separa tes l a s h e s w e l l and does n o t smear o r c lump. The f o r m u l a t i o n does n o t f l a k e d u r i n g wear and has t h e added b e n e f i t o f washing o f f e a s i l y w i t h o u t t h e need o f s p e c i a l eye make-up removers o r harsh s c r u b b i n g .
w A . De ion ized Water 56.95
Col 1 o i d a l Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e (Veegum HV) 1.80 H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (QP 15,000-H) 2.70 Xanthan Gum ( K e l t r o l T) 4.45 Pigment (Pur Oxy Ye l low BC and Pur Oxy B lack BC) 8.95 Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 0.18 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .09
B. PVP/VA Copolymer ( Luv i s k o l 73W) I m i dazol i d i n y l Urea (Germal l 115) Tetrasodium EDTA (Hamp-ene Na4)
10.00 0.20 0 . 0 8
C . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 2.25 Beeswax NF (S&P Whi te NF 422P) 5.25 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 3.50 G1 y c e r i n /Di e t h y l e n e G1 y c o l /Adi p a t e Crosspol ymer
(Lexorez 100) 3.50 S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e NF ( A r l a c e l 60 ) 0.10
Procedure: 1 . Combine “A“ except f o r t h e p igments and h e a t t o 80-85C. When
tempera ture i s reached, homogenize m i x t u r e s l o w l y adding p igments.
2 . Combine “C” and heat t o 80-85C. S l o w l y add t o ” A “ . 3 . M i x ”AC” f o r f i v e minu tes . Add lrB” t o ”AC” and homogenize
f o r f i f t e e n minu tes on medium speed w h i l e c o o l i n g . 4 . A t 60C t r a n s f e r b a t c h t o t a n k equipped w i t h a d o u b l e - a c t i o n
side-sweep a g i t a t o r . M i x and c o o l t o room tempera ture . 5. A d j u s t s o l i d s l e v e l t o 53.2%+-0.1%. S o l i d s were r u n i n a
11OC oven f o r one hour .
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co, : F o r m u l a t i o n 383-198
Beauty Aids 105
Thigh Slimming Cream
The f o l l o w i n g fo rmu la i s used f o r deve lop ing t h i g h s l imming and a n t i - c e l l u l i t e creams. The f i n a l f o r m u l a t i o n i s 0.50% Na tu ra l Cocoa E x t r a c t and 0.50% Caf fe ine which a r e encapsu la ted i n u n i l a m e l l a r and m u l t i l a m e l l a r l iposomes. They a r e f o r m u l a t e d t o t a r g e t subcutaneous f a t t i s s u e . A s i m i l a r f o rmu la can u t i 1 i ze ami nophyl i ne as t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t .
I n a r e d i e n t : A . De ion ized Water
Carbopol 940 G l y c e r i n K e l a t e 220 T r i s e p t M Tween 80 Dow Corn ing 2501 Dow Corn ing 193
B . L a n e t t e 16 Kukui Nut O i l Emersol 132 B u t y l S t e a r a t e B u t y l a t e d Hydroxy Toluene Emerest 2717 Lexol I P P Dow Corn ing 200 (50 cps )
C . T r i e thano lamine De ion ized Water
% 69.06
0 .40 1 .50 0 . 1 0 0.20 1 .oo 1 .50 1 .oo 1.25 3.50 2 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 0.10 1 .50 1 .oo 1 .oo
0 .80 5.00
D . T r i s t a t I U 0 .25
E . Liposome o f 6% Cocoa E x t r a c t 8, 6% C a f f e i n e Concent ra te 8 .34
Procedure: Using moderate p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n , s p i n k l e Carbopol 940
i n t o Phase A and mix u n t i l f u l l y hyd ra ted . Add rema in ing Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat Phase A and Phase B t o 65C-7OC. Wi th p rop- e l l o r a g i t a t i o n , add Phase B t o Phase A . When u n i f o r m , add Phase C . A t 55C-60C, add Phase D . Add Phase E a t 35C, m i x i n g s l o w l y u n t i 1 u n i f o r m .
SOURCE: TRI-K I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Code Biozone
106 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Ultra Rich Hand and Body Nourisher
Veegum U l t r a t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l i z e s t h i s creamy, o i l - i n - w a t e r emuls ion prepared u s i n g a n o n i o n i c e m u l s i f i e r system. I t f e a t u r e s t h e " d r y touch" a p p l i c a t i o n p r o p e r t i e s t y p i c a l o f fo rmulas c o n t a i n i n g Veegum. Palmi t o y 1 hyd ro l yzed animal p r o t e i n f u n c t i o n s as an a n t i - i r r i t a n t t h a t complements t h e group o f o i l phase e m o l l i e n t s . Veegum U l t r a wh i tens and b r i g h t e n s t h i s cosmet ic fo rmu la and a d j u s t s t h e pH t o approx imate t h a t o f normal s k i n .
I n a r e d i e n t : % bv W t . Veegum U l t r a (Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e ) 1.50 De ion ized Water
G1 y c e r i n A loe Vera Gel (2)
P a l m i t o y l Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n ( 3 ) C e t y l E s t e r s (4) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE ( 5 ) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e S o r b i t a n P a l m i t a t e Po lyso rba te 40
P r e s e r v a t i v e , Fragrance
(2) Veragel L i q u i d (3) L i p a c i d e PCO (4) Crodamol SS ( 5 ) Kessco GMS-24SE
79.00
3 .00 2.00
1 . o o 1 .oo 2 .50 5 . 0 0 2.25 2.75
q . s .
Procedure: Heat t h e water t o 55C. Add Veegum U l t r a s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g
a t 700 rpm w i t h a p r o p e l l e r s t i r r e r . I n c r e a s e m ixe r t o 1500-1700 rpm and mix f o r 30 minu tes w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g tempera ture a t 55C. Add B t o A and m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat C t o 6OC and add t o ( A and 6 ) . M ix (A ,B and C) f o r 30 m inu tes . Avo id a i r entrapment. Slow m ixe r t o 1000 rpm and mix w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 35C. Add D and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Package.
Produc t C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s : V i s c o s i t y : 1900-2500 cps pH: 5 .3+-0 .2
Comments:
t h e development o f new p roduc ts o r t h e improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.
SOURCE: R .T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Fo rmu la t i on No. 447
T h i s p r o t o t y p e fo rmu la i s des igned t o se rve as a gu ide f o r
BeautyAids 107
Vegetable Based Moisturizing Cream
I n s r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Super r e f i n e d almond o i l ' ICrodesta" F10 "Syncrowax" HGLC
P a r t 0: 'I H y d r o s o y I' 2 0 0 0 S F ' *Crodesta" F110 So r bo If 7 0
ltGermaben" 11 "Veragel I' 200 De ion ized Water
Percent
20.0 3.0 2.0
1 . o 3.0 5.0 1 . o 0.5
6 4 . 5
Procedure: Combine P a r t A . Heat t o 7OCt-2C. Combine P a r t 0 . Heat t o
7OCt-2C. Combine P a r t B t o P a r t A under a g i t a t i o n . Cool and f i l l o f f .
SOURCE: D r , Madi s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on
Liquifying Cream Makeup Remover
Penreco M i n e r a l O i l #9 Pet ro la tum A lba Rosswax 60-0254 Ross Ceres ine Wax 1160/7 Beta Carotene 30% Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e
% 51 .E8 32.8 9 . 1 7 .0 0.02 q . s . q . s .
Procedure:
170F w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y mixed c o o l , add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s and pack a t about 130F.
SOURCE: Frank 0. Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on
M e l t i n g r e d i e n t s one t h r u f o u r i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e t o
108 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Water Resistant Liquid Foundation
The r e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a t h i n l o t i o n t h a t f e e l s l i k e a f i n e powder.
?&& A . De ion ized Water 69.25
C o l l o i d a l Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e (Veegum) 1 . o o Xanthan Gum ( K e l t r o l T ) 0.50 Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 0.20 Propylene G l y c o l NF 5.00 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e NF QS
B. O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Lexo l EHS) 8.50 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 3 .50 G1 y c e r i n/Di e t h y l e n e G1 y c o l /Adi p a t e Crosspol ymer
(Lexorez 100) 2 . 0 0 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .05
C . T a l c (J-13-AT) I r o n Oxides (AT S e r i e s )
5 5
Procedure: 1 . Combine "A" h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. Add a l l i n g r e d i e n t s excep
2. Combine "B" and heat t o 80C. Veegum and xanthan gum. Dry b l e n d t h e gums and s i f t i n .
00 00
t h e
3 . Move " A g 3 t o homogenizer. Turn t o a low speed. 4. Add "B" t o "A" , homogenize a t low speed f o r 5 minu tes . Begin
5 . Add "C" t o lfAB",homogenize a t low speed f o r 10 minu tes o r
6. Remove f rom homogenizer and t r a n s f e r t o p r o p e l l e r m i x e r . 7. A t 45-50C a d j u s t pH t o 7.5-7.7 w i t h TEA. A d j u s t f o r water loss Formula 383-188
c o o l i ng . u n t i l p a r t i c l e s a r e d i s p e r s e d .
Lip Gloss
The r e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a cake l i p g l o s s which c o u l d be h o t poured i n t o a pan o r d i r e c t l y i n t o a SAN compact. The l i p g l o s s a p p l i e s e a s i l y . T h i s p r o d u c t i s v e r y wear r e s i s t a n t and e x h i b i t s a h i g h g l o s s due t o Lexorez 100.
Castor O i l NF ( C r y s t a l 0) 60.90 Beeswax NF (S&P Whi te 422P) 10.00 L a n o l i n Anhydrous 1.30 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Lexo l GT-865) 14.80 S t e a r y l S t e a r a t e ( L i p o n a t e SS) 4.30 G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer
(Lexorez 100) 8 . 7 0
Procedure: 1. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s , heat t o 75C. Mix s l o w l y so t h a t a i r i s
Formula LP-100 SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co.: Suggested Formula t ions
n o t ent rapped. 2 . Pour a t 50C.
110 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
All Purpose Cream
(0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n ( # 7 0 ) Squal ane N i k k o l WCB G l y c e r y l Monostearate ( S e l f Emu1 s i f y i ng Type) C e t y l A l coho l Po lyoxye thy lene (20) G l y c e r y l Monostearate S o r b i t a n Monostearate
(W) A j i dew N-50 Sorb i t o 1 (70%) Water P r e s e r v a t i ve
Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .
pH: 5 . 6
All Purpose Cream
( 0 ) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n ( # 7 0 ) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C) C e t y l A l coho l N i k k o l WCB C e t y l A l coho l Tocopherol A c e t a t e A1 1 a n t o i n S o r b i t a n Monostearate Po lyoxye thy lene ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n Monooleate
( W ) A j i d e w N-50 Propylene G l y c o l Water P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2 . Add ( W ) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3. Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .
pH: 5 . 4
SOURCE: A j i nomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Wt% 1 0 . 0
4 . 0 5 . 0 8 . 0 4.0 2 . 7 1 . 3
2 .0 2 . 0
61 . O q . s .
Wt$b 21.6
8 .0 5 . 0
1 0 . 0 4 . 0 0 .2 0 . 2 2 . 0 3 . 0
3 .0 2.0
45.0 q . s .
Creams 111
All Purpose Cream
(0) Ami te r LGOD Squal ane Spermaceti Propy lene G l y c o l Monostearate Po lyoxye thy lene ( 2 0 ) G l y c e r y l Monosteara te G l y c e r y l Monostearate ( S e l f Emul s i f y i ng Type) S o r b i t a n Monostearate
(W) A j idew N-50 Sorb i t o 1 (70%) Sodium Carbonate (10% aq s o l n ) Water P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and (W) t o 8OC. 2 . Add ( W ) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .
pH: 5 . 5
Vanishing Cream
(0) S t e a r i c A c i d L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) I s o p r o p y l Myr i s t a t e Hydrogenated L a n o l i n N i k k o l WCB G1 y c e r y l Monostearate (Sel f Emul s i f y i ng Type) Po lyoxye thy lene (20) C e t y l E the r
(W) A j i dew N-50 Propy lene G l y c o l G l y c e r i n T r i e thano l ami ne Water P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and (W) t o 85-86C. 2. Add ( W ) to (0) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n 3 . Cool s l o w l y t o 30C w i t h s t i r r i n g .
pH: 7 .2
W B 10 .0 9.0 2.0 4.0 3.0
10 .0 1 . 5
3 .0 4 . 0 0 .1
53 .1 0 .3
Wt% 8 .0 3 .0 3.0 2.0 2.0 1 . 3 1 . 7
3 .0 3 . 0 3 .0 0.5
69 .5 q . s .
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
112 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
All Purpose Dry Skin Cream
Formula: Phase A : G lucquat 100 Dei o n i zed Water
Phase B: G1 ucam P-20 D i s t e a r a t e G luca te DO Promulgen D Acet u 1 an C e t a l Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 C e t y l P a l m i t a t e Perfume and P r e s e r v a t i v e
%Wt.
1.0 8 3 . 0
2 .0 0 . 5 4.5 2 . 0 1 . o 5 . 0 1 . o q . s .
Procedure:
w i t h adequate a g i t a t i o n . Combine B i n g r e d i e n t s and hea t t o 80C w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x i n g . S low ly add A t o B and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . When m a t e r i a l beg ins t o t h i c k e n d u r i n g c o o l i n g , change t o s low sweep a g i t a t i o n .
D i s s o l v e Glucquat 100 i n t o d e i o n i z e d water and hea t t o 80C
Dry Skin Cream
Water P ro tope t 1s Dry F l o S t a r c h S i l i c o n e 344 F i n s o l v TN C e t y l A l coho l Sodium S t e a r y l 2 L a c t a l a t e Propy lparaben Methy lparaben Carbomer 934 T r i e thano l ami ne Fragrance & Co lo r
W t . 9 6 61 .37 20.00
5 . 0 0 5 .00 5 . 0 0 1 - 0 0 1 .oo 0.15 0 . 1 0
0.30-0.50 QS t o N e u t r a l i z e
QS
SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. : Pet ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formul a t i ons
Creams 113
Almond Vanishing Cream with Collagen
Phase 1 : Rosswax 63-041 2 Rosswax 573 Amer la te P Emerest 2314 Emerest 2316 G l y c e r y l Monostearate SE Almond O i 1 - L i povo l ALM Phase 2 : Emery 916 Pure G l y c e r i n e Water T r i e thano l ami ne Phase 3 : Col l a s o l (Co l l agen) Phase 4: Germaben I 1
% 5.9 8 . 9 0 .7 0 .7 0 .7 0.37 1 . o
6 . 0 13 .46 0 . 9
0 .37
1 . o
Procedure:
t o a tempera ture o f 170F w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When t h e tempera ture i s reached, add Phase ( 1 ) t o Phase ( 2 ) w i t h c o n t i n u e d a g i t a t i o n . Next add Phase ( 3 ) and t h e n Phase ( 4 ) b o t h w i t h a g i t a t i o n , coo l t o 120F and package.
I n separa te steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s hea t b o t h Phase ( 1 ) and ( 2 )
Dry Skin Cream
P a r t (A) : Modul an Amerchol L-101 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e Sodium S t e a r a t e Pure G l y c e r y l Mono S t e a r a t e SE Ross Spermaceti Wax Sub. 573 Ross Jo joba O i 1 P a r t ( B ) : Water Emery 916 G l y c e r i n e Pure T r ie thano lamine P a r t (C): P r e s e r v a t i v e P a r t ( D ) : Fragrance
% 3 . 7 4 .2 2 . 7
1 0 . 0 1 .8 5 . 5 1 . 8
59.7 9 . 2 1 . 4
q . s .
q . s .
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . When tempera ture i s reached, mix P a r t (A) t o P a r t ( B ) and c o o l . Package i n c o n t a i n e r s a t below 120F.
SOURCE: Framk 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
M e l t P a r t (A) and P a r t ( B ) i n separa te vesse ls t o 170F under
114 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream
R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a l i g h t cream t h a t c o u l d be d ispensed f rom a f l e x i b l e t u b e o r a j a r . The a lpha hydroxy a c i d (AHA) c o n t a i n e d i n t h i s f o r m u l a i s b u f f e r e d l a c t i c a c i d w i t h a use l e v e l o f approx imate ly 10%.
A . De ion ized Water Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 2,4-D ich lo robenzy l A lcoho l (Myacide SP) G l y c e r i n USP (99.7%) L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%)
%* 65.80
0 .20 0 .20 3.00 0 .60
B. G1 y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) Stearami d o e t h y l D i e t h y l ami ne (Lexemul AR) 2.50
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 4 .00 Stearami dopropy l Dimethy l ami ne (Lexami ne S-13) 1 .00 C e t y l A lcoho l (Ado1 52) 1 . D O C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Lexo l GT-865) 6.00 I s o b u t y l S t e a r a t e (Lexo l BS) 2.00 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0 . 1 0
C . L a c t i c A c i d (88%) Sodium L a c t a t e (Purasa l S/SP 60%)
5.60 8 .00
Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A'I h e a t i n g t o 75-8OC. Use p r o p e l l e r mixer
f o r a g i t a t i o n . 2 . Combine s e c t i o n "Eqt h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. A g i t a t e s l o w l y w i t h
a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r . 3 . When s e c t i o n s "A" & "B" a r e homogeneous and a t t h e des ig -
na ted tempera tures s l o w l y add l'0" t o " A " . M i x w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n f o r 5 minu tes t h e n b e g i n c o o l i n g .
4. Reduce m i x i n g speed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g . 5 . A t 55-60C, add s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t i o n s "AB". 6 . When t h e b a t c h i s homogeneous and a t 35-45C a d j u s t f o r
water l o s s . 7 . M i x t o 30C. 8 . A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 3.50-3.75 w i t h L a c t i c A c i d o r Sodium
L a c t a t e , as r e q u i r e d .
P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s : V i s c o s i t y : 10,000 cPs @ 24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, TA @ 10 rpm).
pH: 3 .5 @ 24C 24 hour sample.
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n 398-79-3
Creams 115
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream with 10% Aloe Vera Gel
Phase A: Dei o n i zed Water Propy lene G l y c o l Xanthan Gum (T icaxan) Phenoxyethanol
Phase B: Squalane NF PPG-12/SMDI (Po lyo lp repo lymer -2 ) Hydrogenated Phosphol i p i d ( L e c i no1 S-1 0 ) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( M i g l y o l 812) S t e a r i c A c i d C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c / S t e a r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( S o f t i s a n 378) Cyclomethicone (DC 344 F l u i d ) Dimethicone (DC 200 F l u i d ; 50 v i s . ) Ce tea ry l A l coho l (and) Ceteare th-20 (Cosmowax J ) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 165) S tea re th -2 ( B r i j 72)
Phase C: L a c t i c Ac id, 88% ( B i o l a c )
Phase D: T e r r y A loe Vera Gel , l X , Dec Propy lene G1 y c o l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and)
Methylparaben (and) Propy lparaben (Germaben 11)
%& 50.45 4.00 0.50 0 .30
4.00 3.00 1 .oo 5 .00 2.50 2.00 4.00 1 - 0 0 2.00 1.50 0.50
7.00
10.00
1 . D O
1. S low ly d i s p e r s e Xanthan gum t o water w h i l e s t i r r i n g v i g o r - o u s l y . Cont inue m i x i n g a t r a p i d speed u n t i l comp le te l y d i spe rsed and hyd ra ted . Heat t o 70C. Add Propy lene G l y c o l f o l l o w e d by Phenoxyethanol .
2. Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n Phase B. Wh i le s l o w l y m i x i n g commence h e a t i n g t o 70-75C. Cont inue m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m .
3 . S low ly i n t r o d u c e Phase B i n t o Phase A . Cont inue t o mix f o r 5-1 0 m i nu tes .
4. Cool t o 40C w h i l e c o n t i n u i n g t o mix . W i th b a t c h a t 35C, add Phase C and c o n t i n u e t o m ix .
5 . Combine a l l Phase D i n g r e d i e n t s , s t i r r i n g u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add t o b a t c h w h i l e m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 25C.
SOURCE: T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
116 Cosmetic and Toiletry Forniulations
Aloe Vera Night Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A. De ion ized Water
T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Propy l ene G1 y c o l Methy lparaben
B. C e t y l A l c o h o l (Ado1 52 NF) C e t e a r y l A lcoho l (and) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 (and)
Po lysorbate-40 S o r b i t a n P a l m i t a t e M i n e r a l O i 1 (and) L a n o l i n A lcoho l ( R i t a c h o l ) M i n e r a l O i l A l o e Vera L i p o i d 1 : 1 P e t r o l a t u m (and) L a n o l i n (and) Sodium PCA (and)
D i meth i cone 200 BHA Propylparaben
PEG-150 S t e a r a t e (and) S teare th-20 ( R i t a c h o l 1000)
P o l y s o r b a t e 85 (Ri taderm)
Percent 49.225
0.075 3.50 0.20
2.00
2.00 2.00 0 .70 1 .oo 7.00 3.00
3.00 1 .oo 0 .10 0 .10
C . Sodium Bora te 0 . 2 0
D. A loe Veragel Fragrance Germal l I 1
20.50 0 .15 0.25
Procedure: Heat Phase A and Phase B s e p a r a t e l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o 75C.
Add Phase A t o Phase B and mix 30 minu tes . Add Phase C and c o o l w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l tempera ture reaches 50C. Add Phase D and a g i t a t e u n t i l tempera ture reaches room tempera ture .
Night Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A . Water
Promulgen D T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99 Methy lparaben Propylparaben
A loe Veragel L i p o i d G l y c o l S t e a r a t e M i n e r a l O i l Magnesi urn S t e a r a t e
B. S t e a r i c A c i d
Procedure:
shu t o f f a g i t a t i o n . Heat phases t o BOC. Add phase B t o A . M ix u n t i l 4 0 C .
SOURCE: D r . Madis L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested Formulat
Percent q . s . 1 . o 1 .2 0.35 0 . 1
8.0 6.0 3.5
10.0 0 . 5
and
ons
Creams 117
Anti -Cellulite Cream
A c t i v e s s p e c i f i c a l l y developed t o reduce t h e s i g n s and q u a n t i t y o f c e l l u l i t e a r e i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h i s q u i c k pene- t r a t i n g , non-greasy cream. The use o f Cera A l b a l a t e 103 a l l o w s f o r a s t a b l e emuls ion u s i n g a h i g h c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f low v i s c o s i t y o i l s . Orange Wax i n t h i s fo rmu la i s a l s o an a c t i v e due t o s i m i l a r c h e m i s t r y . The c l a i m s f o r Centerchem's a n t i - c e l l u l i t e p roduc ts a r e based on groups o f chemica ls wh ich a re a l s o found i n Orange Wax, f o r example; S t e r o i d s , Flavonones, F lavono ls and Cinnamates.
Phase A : Cera A l b a l a t e 103 (Kos te r Keunen) G l y c o l S t e a r a t e (Kos te r Keunen) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henke l ) Orange Wax (Kos te r Keunen) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) S i l i c o n e O i l 556 (Dow) E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF (Kos te r Keunen) Ceteareth-20 (Croda) Euca lyp tus O i l (Crompton & Knowles) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Berne l )
Phase B : Water (Di s t i 1 l e d ) Carbopol 940 (BF Goodr ich) G l y c e r i n (Unichema) Prona lan A n t i c e l l u l i t e (Centerchem) I v y E x t r a c t (A lban M u l l e r ) Seaweed E x t r a c t (Centerchem) T r ie thano lamine (Dow) A loe Vera Gel (A loe Corp . ) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )
3.0% 4.0% 3 .0% 4.0% 2 .0% 2.0% 2 .0% 1.5% 0 .5% 2.5%
50.1% 0 . 2 % 3.0%
10 .0% 5 .0% 5.0% 0.2% 1.0% 1 .O%
Procedure:
E m u l s i f y by add ing Phase A t o Phase B. Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and mix w h i l e c o o l i n g . Pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r s a t 40C.
Adapt ion o f f o rmu la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :
a c t i v e s which produce s i m i l a r c l a i m s . The use o f o t h e r p l a n t o i l s w i l l n o t d r a m a t i c a l l y a l t e r t h e f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t . Worth men t ion ing i s t h e a b i l i t y o f Orange Wax t o mask t h e aroma o f t h e euca lyp tus o i l p roduc ing a p roduc t o f low f rag rance .
SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on
Heat Phase A t o 75 t o 80C. Heat and mix Phase B t o 75C.
There i s room f o r changing t h i s p roduc t by t h e use o f o t h e r
118 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Antiwrinkle Daycream
I n q r e d i e n t s : A ) Cremophor A6
Cremophor A25 C u t i na GMS C e t y l a1 coho1 L u v i t o l EHO P a r a f f i n O i l B i s a b o l o l S i l i c o n o i l AK 500 Phenoni p Parsol 1789 Parsol MCX
Propy7eng lyco l
P h y t a l u r o n a t e
Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f water phase 8) t o 70C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase B) t o phase A ) , c o o l t o 50C,
Then add phases C ) and D) one a f t e r another and s t i r c o l d .
B) Water demi n e r a l i zed Euxyl K-200
C ) F i t o b r o s i de
D) F ragrance/Ch iara 0/238927 Procedure:
homogenize and c o o l t o 30C.
A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 006.8/02.93
% w/w 2,oo 2,oo 3,OO 3,OO 5,OO 5,OO 0,20 0,50 0,30 1 ,oo 2,oo
61,50 0,20 4,OO 5,OO 5 , O O 0,30
Daycream
I n q r e d i e n t s : A ) Tween 60
A r l a c e l 60 Cet y 1 a 1 coho 1 S t e a r i c A c i d I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e M i g l y c o l 812 Parsol 1789 Parso l MCX Phenoni p
8 ) Water demi n e r a l i zed G1 y c e r i n I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea S e r i c i n Immucel l
C) Fragrancs /T imbuktu O/lB6901 Procedure;
Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f wa te r phase B ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase 6 ) t o phase A ) , c o o l t o 50C,
Then add phase C) and s t i r c o l d . homogenize and c o o l t o 30C.
A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 005.E/11.94 SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d , : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
% w/w 3,OO 2,oo 3,OO 6,OO 10,oo 5,OO 1 ,oo 2,oo 0,50
56,QO 4 , O O 0,30 3,OO s i 0 0 0,30
Creams 119
Benzoyl Peroxide Cream
M a t e r i a l s : P a r t A : 1 . D . I . Water 2 . G l y c e r i n e 3 . Bentone MA r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 4. P r e s e r v a t i v e P a r t B: 1. G l y c e r y l Monostearate, SE 2 . S t e a r y l A lcoho l 3 . I s o c e t y l S t e a r a t e 4. P r e s e r v a t i v e P a r t C : 1. De ion ized Water 2. Benzoyl Perox ide
% b v Weiaht
71 .OO 3 .00 2.00 0.25
3.00 1 .oo 1 .oo 0 .10
11.65 7.00
Procedure: 1 . M i x D.I. Water, g l y c e r i n e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Heat t o 60C. 2. Add Bentone MA s l o w l y and mix w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 80C. 3 . I n a separa te v e s s e l , mix phase B and h e a t t o 8OC. 4 . Add Phase A t o Phase B and mix w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 50C. 5 . M ix and homogenize Phase C s e p a r a t e l y and add t o above
6. Homogenize t h e cream and f i l l t h e c o n t a i n e r .
SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n TS-285
m i x t u r e o f Phase A and Phase B.
Day Cream O/W for Sensitive Skin
Component: I. Emulgade PL 1618
Almond O i l C e t i o l 868 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e B a y s i l o n M 350
1 I . G l y c e r i n 86% Water P r e s e r v a t i v e V i s c o s i t y 23C mPas:
3;O 79.0
q . s . 150000
P r e p a r a t i o n i n t h e Labora tory : 1 . Heat o i l phase t o BOC. Heat aqueous phase t o 80C and add t o
o i l phase w h i l e s t i r r i n g . E m u l s i f y f o r 5 minutes a t t h i s tempera ture .
2 . The emuls ion i s c o o l e d down w h i l e s t i r r i n g ; t h e s t i r r i n g must be s e l e c t e d i n such a way t h a t t h e emuls ion i s k e p t i n c o n t i n u a l mot ion , w i t h o u t d e v e l o p i n g a s o - c a l l e d " s t i r r i n g cone". Excess ive s t i r r i n g , i n p a r t i c u l a r below 50C, can l e a d t o t h e r e d u c t i o n o f t h e f i n a l v i s c o s i t y .
3 . H e a t - s e n s i t i v e a d d i t i v e s a r e added below 40C. F i n i s h s t i r r i n g a t 30C.
SOURCE: Henkel KOaA: F o r m u l a t i o n No.: 92/216/108
120 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cleansing Cream
T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n i s a dual purpose makeup remover and s k i n c o n d i t i o n e r . Myvaplex 600P g l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e p r o v i d e s m i l d c l e a n s i n g , emol l ience, and emuls ion s t a b i l i t y . Eastman v i t a m i n E6-81, t h e a c e t a t e e s t e r o f v i t a m i n E, o f f e r s improved heat and l i g h t s t a b i l i t y .
Phase A : Myvero l 18-06 hydrogenated soy g l y c e r i d e S t e a r i c a c i d , USP/NF Pet ro la tum, USP Drakeol 9 minera l o i l I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e SF 18 (350) s i l i c o n e f l u i d (d imeth icone)
Phase 0 : D i s t i 11 ed water Propy lene g l y c o l , USP T r i e thano l ami ne 99%, USP
Phase C: Eastman v i t a m i n E 6-81 ( v i t a m i n E a c e t a t e )
Phase D: Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e
%m 6.00 4.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 2.00
q . s . t o 100 5 .50 0.70
0.30
q . s . q . s .
Procedure: 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s and heat Phase A and Phase B s e p a r a t e l y
t o 80C, m i x i n g u n t i l each phase i s u n i f o r m . 2 . Add Phase B t o Phase A w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x i n g . 3 . Cont inue m i x i n g and s l o w l y c o o l t o 50C. 4 . Add Phase C w i t h m i x i n g and when u n i f o r m add Phase D. 5 . Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l t o room tempera ture . 6. A d j u s t a g i t a t i o n speed th roughout process as needed.
I n v e r s i o n w i l l occur a t 32C, and cream w i l l become smooth and w h i t e . pH: 7.71
SOURCE: Eastman Chemical Co.: F o r m u l a t i o n X21139-007
Creams 121
Cleansing Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : % bv Wei a h t ( 1 De ion ized Water 31 .O i2j B e n t o n i t e (NF grade) 2 .0 (3) G l y c e r i n 3.0 (4) S o r b i t o l (70% s o l u t i o n ) 5.0 (5) K a o p o l i t e 1147 20.0 (6) Beeswax 5.0 (7) Pet ro la tum 10.0 (8 ) M i n e r a l O i l ( l i g h t ) 17.0 ( 9 ) A r l a c e l 186 3.0 (10)Tween 80 1 . o (11 )So lu lan 16 3.0
P r e s e r v a t i v e , Fragrance & C o l o r a n t q.s. Procedure:
Add (2) t o ( l ) , mix a t h i g h speed. Reduce speed and add (3) and ( 4 ) u n t i l smooth. Cont inue m ix ing , and add (5) s l o w l y u n t i l w e l l d i spe rsed . Heat t o 70C. I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r , mix (6), ( 7 ) , ( 8 ) , (9), and (10) and hea t t o 70C u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t o water phase and c o o l t o 30C w i t h con t inued m i x i n g .
F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p roduc t used.
Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s shou ld be used when h a n d l i n g f lammable i n g r e d i e n t s .
Mascara Cream
I n q r e d i e n t s : % by Weight ( 1 ) De ion ized Water 27.8 (2 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF grade) 2 .0 (3) Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e ( l o w v i s c o s i t y ) 0.2 ( 4 ) Propy lene G l y c o l 5 .0 (5) S o r b i t o l (70% s o l u t i o n ) 5.0 ( 6 ) S o l u l a n 98 2.5 ( 7 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC 4.0 ( 8 ) I r o n Oxides (m ic ron ized ) 3.5 (9) Deodor ized Kerosene 35.0 ( 1 O ) C a n d e l i l l a Wax 5.0 (11)Carnauba Wax (No. 1 y e l l o w ) 7 . 0 ( 1 2 ) A r l a c e l 186 3.0
Procedure: D ispe rse (2) i n t o (1 ) a t h i g h speed. Add (3) and c o n t i n u e
m i x i n g u n t i l w e l l d i spe rsed . Reduce speed and add ( 4 ) , (5), (61 , ( 7 ) , and ( 8 ) . Cont inue m ix ing , hea t t o 70C. In a separa te c o n t a i n e r , mix (g ) , ( l o ) , (11) and (12) and hea t t o 70C u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add t o t h e aqueous phase w h i l e m i x i n g . Cool t o 30C.
F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p roduc t used.
Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s shou ld be used when h a n d l i n g flammable i n g r e d i e n t s .
SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .
122 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cold Cream
(0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e C e t y l A l c o h o l Hydrogenated Lanol i n N i k k o l WCB S o r b i t a n Monostearate Po lyoxyethy lene (20) S o r b i t a n Monooleate
(W) A j idew N-50 Water P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure: 1. Heat ( 0 ) and ( W ) t o 80-85C. 2. Add ( W ) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .
pH: 7 . 2
Cold Cream
(0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C) P e t r o l a t u m N i k k o l WCB G1 y c e r y l Monostearate Po lyoxyethy lene (10) C e t y l E ther A1 umi num Monostearate
(W) A j idew N-50 Water P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and (W) t o 80C. 2. Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g . 3 . Cont inue s t i r r i n g u n t i l 35-40C.
pH: 5 .2
Wt% 2 0 . 0
9 .0 3 . 0 1 . o 2 . 0
1 0 . 0 2 .7 2.3
3 . 0 47 .0
q . s .
Wt% 30.0
6 . 0 7 . 0 7 .0 2 . 5 2.5 2 . 0
3 . 0 42.0
q . s .
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Formulat ions
Creams 123
Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
B r i j 721s
6 Water, d e i o n i z e d Carbopol 934
w 10.00
4 .00
80 .50 0.10
C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W aqueous) 0.10
D D o w i c i l 200 0 . 1 0
E Fragrance 0 . 2 0
F Ethano l , SDA-40 5.00
Procedure:
b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C). Add ( D ) when t h e tempera ture drops below 50C. Add (E) below 40C. Add (F) and water t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
Heat (A) t o 70C and ( 8 ) t o 75C. Add (6) t o (A) s l o w l y u s i n g
Facial Washing Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l
C e t y l a l c o h o l A r l a c e l 165 Tween 60
6 G l y c e r i n Water * P r e s e r v a t i v e
C *Perfume *Color
*q.s. these i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat ( A )
i n u e d s t i r r Add (C) and Formula SK-
%m 25.00
2.00 10.00
1 .oo 6.00
56.00
t o 65C and ( B ) t o 65C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h c o n t - ng u n t i l t h e emuls ion tempera ture drops t o 45C. c o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c o o l . 6A
S u r f a c t a n t s : SugQested Formula t ions SOURCE: IC1
124 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Daily Facial Cream with UV Protection (O/W) (Expected SPF 6)
I n n r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 165
Eumulgin B 2 L a n e t t e 0 F i n s o l v TN C e t i o l OE I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e A b i l 100 Bentone Gel MI0 Neo He l iopan, Type AV C u t i n a CBS
B Demi n e r a l i zed water Pemulen TR-2 Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% aq. s o l u t i o n ) G l y c e r i n 86% Phenoni p Neo He l iopan, Type Hydro; used as a
n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e Z i n c Oxide N e u t r a l H&R
%( w / w 1 3 . 0 0 1 . o o 2 . 0 0 3.00 5.00 1 - 0 0 1 .oo 3.00 1 .oo 2.00
67.25 0 . 4 0 0 .20 3 .00 0.50
15% s o l u t i o n 3.35
3 . 0 0 ( a c t i v e 0.50%)
C Perfume o i l 0 .30
M a n u f a c t u r i n g Process: P a r t A: Heat up t o 75C w i t h thorough a g i t a t i o n . P a r t B:
Then add t h e o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s , e x c l u d i n g Z i n c Oxide n e u t r a l H&R and heat up t o 95C. Then add and d i s p e r s e Z i n c Oxide n e u t r a l H&R. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Cont inue s t i r r - i n g t o room tempera ture . P a r t C :
emuls ion.
D isperse t h e Pemulen i n t h e water d u r i n g h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n .
A t 30C add t h e perfume o i l t o P a r t A /B and homogenize t h e
The pH-value o f t h e f i n i s h e d emuls ion shou ld be approx. 7 . 5 and has t o be checked.
SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: F o r m u l a t i o n K 2/1-21282/E
Creams 125
Day Cream, Oily
A . I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s M i g l y o l 812 M i g l y o l 840 S o f t i s a n 649 Dynacer i n 660 S t e a r i c a c i d C e t y l a l c o h o l
B . Water
C . T r i e thano lamine
D. Perfume Prese rva t i ve
% 1 0 . 0 6 . 0 6 . 0 5 . 0 3.0 5.0 3.0
t o 1 0 0 . 0
0.90
qs qs
P r e p a r a t i o n : A . and 8 . a r e s e p a r a t e l y warmed t o 75C. C . i s added t o B.
8. and C . a r e e m u l s i f i e d i n A . Perfume i s i n t r o d u c e d a t approx . 30C.
Moisturizing Cream, Slightly Oily
A . I m w i t o r 940 M i g l y o l 812 M i g l y o l 840 Lane t te N
B. Hygrop lex HHG K a r i o n F 1,2-Propylene g l y c o l Water
C . Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e
%
5.0 3.0 5.0
1 0 . 0
5.0 3.0 3.0
t o 100.0
qs qs
P r e p a r a t i o n : The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and heated t o 80-85C.
B . i s heated t o t h e same tempera ture and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . C . i s added a t approx . 30C.
SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
126 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Deep Moisturizing Cream
T h i s m o i s t u r i z i n g cream uses Cromoist CS as a m o i s t u r e absorb ing , f i l m f o r m i n g p r o t e i n t o r e t a i n m o i s t u r e and b i n d t o t h e s k i n . The emuls ion i s formed and s t a b i l i z e d by t h e Polawax, Syncrowax, and Super H a r t o l a n combina t ion . The o i l s a r e a b l e n d o f Crodalan LA, Crodamol PMP, Super Ref ined Babassu O i l , and P e t r o l a t u m which p r o v i d e s a non greasy e l e g a n t f e e l and h e l p s t o s o f t e n t h e s k i n .
I n a r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Pol awax (Emu1 s i f y i ng Wax NF) Syncrowax A w l - C (C18-36 A c i d ) Syncrowax HGL-C (C18-36 A c i d T r i g l y c e r i d e ) Crodalan LA ( C e t y l Aceta te (and) A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n
Super R e f i n e d Babassu O i l (Babassu O i l ) Super H a r t o l a n ( L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) Crodamol PMP (PPG-2 M y r i s t y l E t h e r P r o p i o n a t e ) P e t r o l a t u m Propy l Paraben
P a r t 6 : Water, d e i o n i z e d Methy l paraben G1 y c e r i n T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)
A1 coho1 )
2.00 5 .50 1 .oo 1 .oo 3 .00 1 - 0 0 7 .00 1 . o o 0 .20
66.00 0.30
10.00 1 .oo
P a r t C : Cromoist CS ( C h o n d r o i t i n S u l f a t e (and) Hydro lyzed
Procedure:
Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t 0 w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 75C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h homogenizer m i x i n g and c o o l t o 65C. Cont inue m i x i n g w i t h a sweep b l a d e mixer and c o o l t o 40C. Add p a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l tempera ture .
P r o t e i n ) 1 - 0 0
Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 75C.
V i s c o s i t y : 4,000,000+-10% ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, S p i n d l e TE, 25C) N . A . T . C . Approved
SOURCE: Croda Inc.: Formula SC-207
Creams 127
Deep Moisturizing Creme
P a r t A : Water Potass i urn Hydrox ide (45%) Monafax 160 Phosphol i p i d SV Germaben 1 1 - E T i t a n i um D i o x i d e
P a r t 0 : Cety l A l coho l Myr i s t y 1 Myr i s t a t e I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e Dimethicone (1OOcs) Lanol i n A l coho l
% by Weight 84.5
0 . 4 1 . 0 2 . 5 0 . 6 0 . 5
2 . 0 3.0 4 . 0 1 . o 0 . 5
Procedure: Heat P a r t A w i t h a g i t a t i i o n t o 60C. Separa te l y heat P a r t B t o
60C. Homogenize P a r t B i n t o P a r t A f o r a s u f f i c i e n t t i m e t o ensure good e m u l s i f i c a t i o n . S t i r coo l t o 45C, add f rag rance , and package.
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on
Apricot Vanishing Cream
Phase ( 1 ) : Rosswax 63-041 2 Rosswax 573 Amer la te P Emerest 2314 Emerest 2316 G l y c e r y l Monostearate SE A p r i c o t Kernal O i l L i p o v o l P
Phase ( 2 ) : Water Emery 916 Pure G l y c e r i n e T r ie thano lamine
Phase ( 3 ) : Germaben I 1
3 6.64 9 .2 0 . 8 0 . 8 0 . 8 0 . 8 0 . 4 1 . 3
72 .9 6.2 0 .96
1 . 0
Fragrance GK-19 9,5.
Procedure: I n separa te steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s , hea t b o t h Phase (1 ) and
( 2 ) t o a tempera ture o f 170F w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When t h e tempera- t u r e i s reached, add Phase ( 1 ) t o Phase ( 2 ) w i t h c o n t i n u e d a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 130F, add Phase (3 ) and f r a g r a n c e . Cont inue t o coo l t o 120F and package. SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on
128 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Emollient Cream
P a r t A : Water Magnabri t e Methyl paraben Propy l paraben BHA
P a r t B: Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 Propy lene g l y c o l So rb i t o 1 M y r i s t y 1 p r o p i o n a t e Cocoa b u t t e r C e t y l a l c o h o l S t e a r i c a c i d
P a r t C : O c t y l d ime thy l PABA T r i e thano l ami ne Fragrance
69.12% 0.50 0.20 0 .10 0.08
4.50 3.50 4.00 3.00 5.00 4.00 4.00
1 - 0 0 1 - 0 0
q . s .
Procedure: Heat water t o 80 degrees C e l s i u s . D i s s o l v e parabens and BHA
i n t o w a t e r . S i f t Magnabr i te i n t o t h e v o r t e x . When d i spe rsed add B i n g r e d i e n t s and mix u n t i l me l ted and u n i f o r m . Beg in c o o l i n g . A t 50 degrees C e l s i u s add C i n g r e d i e n t s . Cont inue m i x i n g u n t i l coo l .
Stabilized Urea Moisturizing Cream
Urea S t e a r y l a1 coho1 G l y c e r y l monostearate O c t y l dodecanol Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 Po lyoxye thy lene s t e a r y l e t h e r Bu ty lpa raben Ethy lparaben Propy lene g l y c o l Sodium PCA Ammoni um c h l o r i de Water 9 , s . t o
10.00% 10.00
8 . 0 0 5 .00 6 .00 2.50 0 .10 0.10 3.00 3.00 1 .oo
100.00
SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. : Pet ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Creams 129
Emollient Cream for Dry Flaking Skin
I n a r e d i e n t : De ion i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% Propylene G l y c o l Xanthan Gum Tetrasodium EDTA C e t e a r y l A1 coho l Laneth-5 G l y c e r y l Monostearate O i l s o f Aloha Kukui Nut O i l V i t a m i n E Aceta te S t e a r i c A c i d XXX D i meth i cone O c t y l P a l m i t a t e Germaben I 1 Fragrance
No.:Phase: 1 A 2 A 3 A 4 A 5 A 6 B 7 B 8 B 9 B
10 B 11 0 12 B 13 B 14 C 15 D
% bv Weiaht 74.65%
1.00% 3.00% 0.30% 0.10% 1 .OO% 1.50% 4.00% 3.00% 0.20% 4.00% 1 .OO% 5.00% 1 .OO% 0.25%
Manufac tur ing Procedure: Heat Phase A t o 75C. Heat Phase B t o 75C. Add Phase B t o Phase A . Cool t o 40C and add remain ing phases. Package.
A o i l i n water emuls ion where t h e p r i m a r y e m u l s i f i e r s a r e
T h i s i s a f a i r l y inexpens ive f o r m u l a t h a t uses two e m o l l i e n t s -
An e x c e l l e n t example o f t h e f e e l o f Kuku i .
s t e a r i c a c i d w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and Laneth-5.
Kukui and o c t y l p a l m i t a t e .
& 1 2
Phase: A A
3 B 4 B 5 B 6 0 7 B 8 B 9 B
10 C
Facial Cleansing Cream
I n a r e d i e n t : Dei o n i zed Water G1 y c e r i ne M i n e r a l O i l O i l s o f Aloha Macademia Nut O i l O i l s o f Aloha Kukui Nut O i l C e t y l A lcoho l C12-15 A1 coho l s Benzoate A r l a c e l 165 Polysorbate-60 P r e s e r v a t i ve
% by Wei caht 54.00%
6.00% 15.00%
5.00% 5.00% 2.00% 2.00%
10.00% 1.00% QS
Manufac tur ing Procedure: Phase A : Heat water and g l y c e r i n phase t o 75C. Phase 0: Heat o i l phase t o 75C. Add t o water phase. Cool t o
Phase C: Add p r e s e r v a t i v e . 40C.
SOURCE: Oils o f Aloha: Suggested Formula t ions
130 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Emollient Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E
A r 1 a s o l v e 200L B r i j 72 S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
B Water, d e i o n i zed Carbopol 934
C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W aqueous)
D * P r e s e r v a t i v e *Perfume
*q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
%M 20 .00
1 . 1 0 7 .20 2 .00
69.30 0 . 2 0
0.20
Procedure:
good a g i t a t i o n and add ( C ) a t 35C and mix t h o r o u g h l y . Add ( D ) . Heat ( A ) t o 72C and (B) t o 75C. Add (B ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h
Replace water l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Package. Formula AE-15
Non-Greasy Emollient Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l B r i j 721s B r i j 72
B Water, d e i o n i zed Carbopol 934
w 10.00 4.00 5.11 1 .89
58.10 0 . 4 0
C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W aqueous) 0 .40
D * P r e s e r v a t i v e
E Fragrance 0.10
F E thano l
Procedure: Heat ( A )
moderate ag ( F ) a t 35C. Formula SK-
SOURCE: I C 1
SDA-40 20 IO0
t o 70C and ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add (B ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) below 50C. Add (E) and Replace water l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n and package. 2
S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams 131
Emollient Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s : A C e t y l a l c o h o l
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Pe t ro la tum L i q u i d l a n o l i n f r a c t i o n B r i j 72 B r i j 700
B Water, d e i o n i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e * q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (B) t o 72C. Add (B) t o (A) w i t h
Emollient Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s : A B r i j 72
B r i j 721 Ar lamol E S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Ce ty l a l c o h o l S t e a r i c a c i d S i l i c o n e f l u i d (GE SF 96-20)
6 Propy lene g l y c o l *Dow ic i l 200 Water, d e i on i zed * q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
3 .00 2 .00 5 . 0 0 2 .00 3.00 3.00
82 .00
%w/w 3 .00 2 .00 9 .00 0 . 7 0 0 . 3 0 1 .50 1 . o o 4.00
78.50
Procedure:
moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add water l o s t due t o evapora t i on. Formula PC-9028
Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (B) t o 72C. Add (B) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h
Vanishing Cream
I n n r e d i e n t s : A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g .m.s . Lanol i n C e t y l a1 coho1 M ine ra l o i l Sorbo, 70% s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n , U . S . P , Water, d e i o n i z e d
%w/w 18.00 2 . 0 0 1 . o o 1 .00 2.00
76.00
Procedure:
room tempera ture .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o 9OC w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o
132 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
European O/W Day Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s : Isohexadecane Capry l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e Avocado o i l Sunf lower Seed O i l Tocopherol Ace ta te Behenyl a l c o h o l A n t i o x i d a n t
A r l a t o n e 2121 G1 y c e r o l Pant henol A1 1 a n t o i n
* P r e s e r v a t i v e Xanthan gum Water
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
1 0 . 0 0 4 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 2.00 2.00 2.00 0 .05
5 .50 4 . 0 0 1 . o o 0 .20
0 .15 67.10
Procedure: M e l t A r l a t o n e 2121 and add t o remainder o f (B) and (C)
m i x t u r e a t 80C. Add heated (A) t o t h e (B) and (C) m i x t u r e a t 75C w i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n . Homogenize m i x t u r e a t 65C
Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A C e t y l a l c o h o l
B r i j 7215 S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s
B Water, d e i o n i z e d
C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 27% d i l u t i o n grade
w/w 6 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 0 . 5 0
66.30
22 * 20
Procedure:
moderate ag t a t i o n . Add (C) below 35C. Rep ace wa te r l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 w i t h i l u t e phosphor c a c i d (10% C . P . ) , Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b e evo l u t i on o f oxygen. Formula PC-8200
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat (A) t o 60C and ( 8 ) t o 65C. Add (6) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h
Creams 133
Exfoliating Cream
The use o f n a t u r a l e x f o l i a t i n g agent ( e a s i l y d i s p e r s e d ) i n t h i s cream fo rmula g i v i n g a marvelous, n o n - i r r i t a t i n g , a b r a s i v e q u a l i t y f o r t h e removal o f spent s u r f a c e c e l l s . T h i s w i l l renew and r e v i t a T i z e worn and damaged s k i n , l e a v i n g a b a r r i e r which c o n t a i n s n a t u r a l a n t i - o x i d a n t s i n h e r e n t i n t h e beeswax and orange wax.
Phase A : Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) NF White Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Almond O i l ( A r i s t a ) L i g h t M i n e r a l O i l (Wi tco) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Kos ter Keunen) C e t y l s t e a r y l A lcoho l (P&G) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema)
Phase 8 : Water (D i s t i 11 ed) Propy l ene G1 y c o l (Dow) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 (Gal l a r d & S c h l e s i n g e r ) Carbopol 940 (BF Goodr ich) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )
Phase C : M i c r o g r a n u l a t e d Carnauba, 20-60 mesh ( K o s t e r Keunen)
3.5% 1 . 0 % 3.0% 3.5% 4 . 0 % 1.5% 1.0% 3.0%
64 I 6% 2.5% 1 .O% 0.2% 0.2% 1 .0%
10.0%
Procedure:
0 a t 75C under a g i t a t i o n . Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add Phase C and mix u n t i l homogeneous.
Adapt ion o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :
i n g s t e a r i c a c i d f o r i s o s t e a r i c a c i d , t o accomodate your p r e - f e r r e d c o n t a i n e r . For s e n s i t i v e s k i n , reduce t h e orange wax, and r e p l a c e w i t h Kes ter Wax 62 and Ceres ine 130/135. A low v i s c o s i t y w i l l a l l o w t h i s p r o d u c t t o be packaged i n a b o t t l e f i t t e d w i t h a pump and a p r o d u c t w i t h h i g h v i s c o s i t y a l l o w s packaging i n an open j a r . The f o r m u l a t i n g advantages remain un- a l t e r e d by t h e changes i n v i s c o s i t y .
SOURCE: Koster Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Add a mixed and u n i f o r m Phase A t o a mixed and u n i f o r m Phase
V i s c o s i t y o f t h i s p r o d u c t can e a s i l y be a l t e r e d b y s u b s t i t u t -
134 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Facial Moisturizing Cream
E t h y l h e x y l p-methoxycinnamate Buty lmethoxyd ibenzoy lmethane E t h y l ene -ac ry l a t e copolymer Hydroxypropyl g l y c e r y l e t h e r P r o t o p e t 1 s P e t r o l a t u m Dimeth i cone Steareth-100 G l y c e r y l monostearate C e t y l a l c o h o l S t e a r i c A c i d Carbomer 934 Carbomer 941 Methy lparaben Propylparaben I m i dazo l i d i n y l u r e a Tetrasodium EDTA T y r o s i n e P o t a s s i um h y d r o x i de T i t a n i um d i o x i d e Fragrance Water
Moisturizing Hand & Body Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : Dei o n i zed Water Carbomer 934 G l y c e r i n e P o l y a l d o 10-1-5 P e t r o l a t u m C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 Lonzest 143/S A ldo HMS S t e a r i c A c i d T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% G lydan t P l u s
4,90% 2.10 0.50 5.00 2.00 0 . 4 0 0.70 0.30 1 . 2 0 0.52 0 .10 0 .10 0 . 2 0 0.10 0 .10 0.10 0.10 0.37 0 .40 0.15
q . s . t o 100.00
%Wt. 82 .00
0.50 5.00 1 . 5 0 2 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 2.00 1.50 2.50 1 .oo
q . s .
SOURCE: W i t c o Corp . : Pet ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams 135
Facial Night Cream
P a r t A : Dei o n i zed Water So rb i t o 1 Methylparaben P a r t B : C14-16 a l c o h o l s benzoate Lanol i n P ro tope t IS Pet ro la tum Beeswax Po lyso rba te 80 G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e and PEG S t e a r i c a c i d T r ie thano lamine P a r t C : G l y c o s p h i n g o l i p i d s P a r t D : Dimethicone D i azo1 i d i n y l u rea Fragrance
100 s t e a r a t e
53.7% 1 . o 0.2
15.0 1 . o 5.0
4.0 2.0 3.0 0.6
5.0
1 . o 0.3 0.2
8.0
Procedure: Beg in h e a t i n g water t o 80 C e l s i u s , add r e s t o f P a r t A . M ix
w e l l . Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . M ix u n t i 1 homogeneous. Begin c o o l i n g t o room tempera ture . S l o w l y add P a r t C; mix u n t i l smooth. Add r e s t o f P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s . M ix w e l l
Age Spot Treatment Cream
D i ethano ami ne c e t y l phosphate E thy lene g l y c o l monostearate I sop ropy P a l m i t a t e C e t e a r y l oc tanoa te P ro tope t 1s Pet ro la tum Lanol i n a l c o h o l s Propylparaben Methylchloroisothiazolinone and m e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e I m i dazo l i d i n y l u rea Methylparaben BHA BHT Cys te ine Reduced g l u t a t h i o n e Pyrocatecho l Ascorby l p a l m i t a t e A c e t i c A c i d Octylmethoxy cinnamate Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane Fragrance
2.00% 12.00 12.00 2.00 2.50 3.00 0.10 0.05 0.10 0.10 0.20 0.30 0.50 0.50 2.00 0.20 0.20 1 . oo 1 .oo 0.60
Water q . s . t o 100.00
SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. : Pet ro leum Speci a1 t i es Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
136 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
General Purpose Cream
1 . A-C Copolymer 540 2 . A-C Po lye thy lene 617 3 . Amerchol L-101 4 . M i n e r a l O i l 5 . Hexadecyl S t e a r a t e 6. Emerest 2452 7. Propyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate 8. Methyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 10.00 r a x 11 .Magnesium S u l f a t e 12. Water
Wtl 2 . 0 2 . 0 5 . 0
10 .2 1 0 . 0
5 . 5 0 .1 0 .2 5 . 0 0 . 3 0 .3
59.7
Procedure:
a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v - a t i n g tempera ture i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 8-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.
P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 78C t h e c rude d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion fo rms. Cont inue shear ing w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r and make su re t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de- a e r a t e and package.
Weigh 1-7 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has
General Purpose Water/Oil Cream
1 . A-C Po lye thy lene 617 2 . 0 2 . Beeswax 4 .0 3 . M i n e r a l O i l 15 .0 4 . A r l a c e l 83 5 . 5 5 . Propyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 1 6 . Borax 0 . 3 7 . S o r b i t o l 5 . 0 8 . Methyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2 9 . Germal l 115 0 .3 10.Water 67 .6 Procedure:
has a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n b lend . I f a h i g h e r temp- e r a t u r e i s used, t h e s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 80-85C. Heat 5-10 t o 85-9OC and s t i r gent1
Weigh 1-4 and heat t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . T h i s wax b l e n d
i s d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C. P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous
and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t approx the c rude d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s . Some wa te r may n o t be taken up a t t h i s p o i n t b u t c o n t i n u e d shear ing w i l l i t a l l . Add perfume, de-aera te and package. SOURCE: A1 1 i ed S i gnal Inc . : 501 1-1 9-5/5011-20-1
u n t i l a l l
phase t o i t mate l y 48C compl e t e l y n c o r p o r a t e
Creams 137
General Purpose O/W Cream
1 . 2 . 3 . 4 . 5 . 6. 7 .
8 . 9 . 10 11 12
A-C Copolymer 540 M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . Dow F l u i d 556 Emerest 2388 Amerchol 400 S o l u l a n 2 5 A r l a c e l 60
S o r b i t o l (70%) Tween 60 Carbopol 940 Germal l 115 T r i e thano l ami ne
wt"/o 2 . 0 5 . 0 1 . o
10 .5 2 . 0 1 . o 2 . 0
5 . 0 1 . o 0 .75 0 . 4 0 . 7 5
13. Water 68 .6
Procedure:
s low a g i t a t i o n . Add rema in ing i ngred i e n t s , except T r i e thano l - amine, t o t h e Carbopol /water d i s p e r s i o n and hea t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer f o r f i v e m inu tes . Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o shear w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add perfume, de -ae ra te and package.
D ispe rse Carbopol i n w a t e r . Weigh 1-7 and hea t t o 80-9OC w i t h
General Purpose o/w Cream
1 . A-C Copolymer 540 2 . M i n e r a l o i 1, 70 v i s . 3 . Dow F l u i d 556 4 . Emerest 2388 5 . Hydroxy01 6 . E thoxyo l 24 7 . A r l a c e l 60
8 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 9 . Tween 60 10. Carbopol 940 11.Germal l 115 12 .T r ie thano lamine 13 . Water
Et% 2 . 0 5 . 0 1 . o
1 0 . 5 2 . 0 1 . o 2 . 0
5 . 0 1 . o 0 . 7 5 0 . 4 0 . 7 5
68.6
Procedure:
s low a g i t a t i o n . Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s , except T r i e t h a n o l - amine, t o t h e Carbopol /water d i s p e r s i o n and hea t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer f o r f i v e m inu tes . Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o shear w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add perfume, de-aearate and package.
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Re f : 5011-25-2/Ref: 5011-25-2A
D ispe rse Carbopol i n w a t e r . Weigh 1-7 and hea t t o 80-9OC w i t h
138 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
General Purpose O/W Cream
1 . A-C Copolymer 540 2 . M i n e r a l o i l , 70 v i s 3. Dow F l u i d 556 4. I s o p r o p y l Myr i s t a t e 5 . Amerchol 400 6 . S o l u l a n 25 7 . A r l a c e l 60
8 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 9 . Tween 60 10. Carbopol 940 11 .Germal l 115 12 .T r ie thano lamine 13.Water
w- 2 . 0 5 . 0 1 . o
10 .5 2 .0 1 . o 2.0
5 . 0 1 . o 0 . 7 5 0 . 4 0 .75
68 .6
Procedure:
s low a g i t a t i o n . Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s , except T r i e t h a n o l - amine, t o t h e Carbopol /water d i s p e r s i o n and heat t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer f o r f i v e m inu tes . Add T r ie thano lamine and c o n t i n u e t o shear w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add perfume, de-aera te and package.
D isperse Carbopol i n wa te r . Weigh 1-7 and hea t t o 80-9OC w i t h
General Purpose O/W Cream
1 . A-C Po lye thy lene 617 2 . A-C Copolymer 540 3 . M i n e r a l o i 1 , 70 v i s . 4 . Dow F l u i d 556 5 . Emerest 2388 6 . Amerchol 400 7 . S o l u l a n 25 8 . A r l a c e l 60
9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 10.Tween 60 11 .Carbopol 940 12.Germal l 115 13. T r i e thano l ami ne 14.Water
W B 1 . 0 1 . o 5 . 0 1 . o
10 .5 2 . 0 1 . o 1 . 3
5 . 0
0 . 7 5 0 . 4 0 . 7 5
68.5
1 . a
Procedure:
s low a g i t a t i o n . Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s , except T r i e t h a n o l - amine, t o t h e Carbopol /water d i s p e r s i o n and hea t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer f o r f i v e minu tes . Add T r ie thano lamine and c o n t i n u e t o shear w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add perfume, de-aera te and package.
SOURCE: A l l i e d S igna l I n c . : Re f : 5011-25-2B/Ref: 5011-25-3
D isperse Carbopol i n wa te r . Weigh 1-8 and hea t t o 80-9OC w i t h
Creams 139
General Purpose O/W Cream
1. A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 2. A-C Copolymer 540 3 . M i n e r a l o i 1, 70 v i s . 4 . Dow F l u i d 556 5 . Emerest 2388 6 . Hydroxy01 7 . Ethoxyol 24 8 . A r l a c e l 60
9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 10.Tween 60 11. Carbopol 940 12.Germal l 115 13 .T r ie thano lamine 14. Water
wts/b 1 . o 1 . o 5 . 0 1 . o
10 .5 2 . 0 1 . o 1 . 3
5 . 0 1 . 8 0 . 7 5 0 . 4 0 . 7 5
68.5
Procedure:
w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s , except T r i e t h a n - o lamine, t o t h e Carbopol /water d i s p e r s i o n and hea t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer f o r f i v e m inu tes . Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o shear w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add perfume, de -ae ra te and package.
D ispe rse Carbopol i n w a t e r . Weigh 1-8 and hea t t o 80-9OC
General Purpose O/W Cream
I . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 2. A-C Copolymer 540 3. M i n e r a l o i 1, 70 v i s . 4 . Dow F l u i d 556 5 . I s o p r o p y l Myr 6 . Amerchol 400 7 . S o l u l a n 25 8 . A r l a c e l 60
9 . S o r b i t o l (70% 10.Tween 60 11.Carbopol 12.Germal l 115
s t a t e
1 3 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 14. Water
Wt% 1 . o 1 . o 5 . 0 1 . o
10 .5 2 . 0 1 . o 1 .3
5 . 0 1 . 8 0 .75 0 . 4 0 . 7 5
68.5
Procedure: D ispe rse Carbopol i n w a t e r . Weigh 1-8 and hea t t o 80-9OC
w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s , excep t T r i e t h a n - o lamine, t o t h e Carbopol /water d i s p e r s i o n and hea t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer f o r f i v e m inu tes . Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o shear w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add perfume, de -ae ra te and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Re f . 5011-25-3A/5011-25-3B
140 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
General Purpose O/W Cream
1 . 2. 3 . 4 . 5 . 6 . 7 . 8 . 9 . 10 11 12
A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 A-C Copolymer 540 M i n e r a l O i l (70 s s ) Dow 556 F l u i d Propylene G1 y c o l D i p e l a rgona te Hydroxy01 E thoxyo l 24 A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60 P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e S o r b i t o l (70%) Carbopol 940
wtv 1 . o 1 . o 5 . 0 1 . o
1 0 . 5 2 . 0 1 . o 1 . 3 1 . 8 0 . 1 5 . 0 0 .75
13.Germal l 115 0 . 4 14.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 .2 15. T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 16.Water 6 8 . 3 Procedure:
D i s p e r s e Carbopol i n wa te r . Weigh 1-10 and hea t t o 80-9OC w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s t o Carbopol /water d i s p e r s i o n , except t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , and hea t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e wax phase t o t h e aqueous phase and shear i n homomixer. Con t inue s h e a r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C, t h e n add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , m i x i n g w e l l . Cool t o 30C, add perfume, de -ae ra te and package. Re f : 5011-25-4
0 . 7 5
Acne Scrub Cream For acne sc rub cream, add 10% A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e SA t o t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n , a f t e r c o o l i n g .
Emollient Cream, Water/Oil
1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A 1% 2 . A-C Copolymer 540 4 3 . L a n o l i n Wax 10 4 . M i n e r a l O i l 30 5 . 2 E t h y l Hexy l S t e a r a t e 4 . 5 6 . A r l a c e l 20 4.6 7. Tween 20 1 . 5 8 . P Paraben 0 . 1 9 . M Paraben 0.15 10. Water 43.85 11 .Borax 0 .15 12.Carbopol 941 0 .15 Procedure: 1 . Heat 1-5 to 9OC u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . 2 . Add 6, 7 and 8 t o 1-5. Ho ld a t 85C. 3 . Heat 10 and 11 t o 90-95C u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d ; add 12
g r a d u a l l y w i t h shear u s i n g t h e Gi f ford-Wood Homomixer o r equi v a l e n t .
4. Add 1-8 t o m ixe r and shear f o r 10 minutes a t 85-9OC. Shear t o 65C, add perfume and package.
SOURCE: Allied Signal Inc.: Suggested Formulations
Creams 141
General Purpose Cream WtO/o
1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A 3.0 2 . Beeswax 2 . 0 3 . L a n o l i n A l coho l 1 . o 4 . I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e 8 .2 5 . 2 - e t h y l Hexyl P a l m i t a t e 10.0 6 . Dow 200 F l u i d , 350 c s 1 . o 7 . T r i g l y c e r a l D i i s o s t e a r a t e 5 . 5 8 . P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 0 .1 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 5 . 0 10 .A loe E x t r a c t 5 . 0 11.Sodium Bora te , Anhydrous 0 . 3
13.Germal l 115 0 . 3
15. Water 58 .3
12 .Methy l -P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 .2
14 .Buty l -P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 1
Procedure:
has a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g tempera tu re i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 9-15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85'2.
and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 67C t h e c rude d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion forms. Con t inue s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de-aerate and package. Ref : 5189-4-10A
Weigh 1-8 and and hea t t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d
P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t
1. 2 . 3 . 4. 5 . 6 . 7 . 8 . 9 . 10. 11.
Water-In-Oil Cream
A-C 617 M i n e r a l O i 1 (70-75 SS) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e E s c a l o l 507 Lanogene S o r b i t a n S e s q u i o l e a t e ( A r l ace1 83) Sorbo Borax Germaben I I E Water Perfume
% 3 . 0
15 .0 6 . 0 4 . 0 5 .0 5 . 0 5 . 0 0 . 3 1 . o
Balance Q.S.
Procedure:
o l v e d . M a i n t a i n i t a t 100-11OC. Heat 7-10 w i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a - t i o n w i t h a c o l l o i d m i l l o r homof ixer u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s a t 85C. Con t inue v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n and pour i n 1-6. A c rude o i l - i n - w a t e r emuls ion i s formed. Cool w i t h c o l d wa te r b a t h t o about 55-60C when i t i n v e r t s i n t o a smooth cream. A t 50-55C add perfume and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S igna l I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat 1 -6 w i t h m i l d a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l t h e A-C 617 has d i s s -
142 Cosmetic and To i l ev Formulations
General Purpose Water/Oil CreamWt.%
1 . A-C Polyethylene 617 2.0 2. A-C Copolymer 540 2.0 3. Mineral Oil (70 ss) 10.2 4. 2 Ethyl Hexyl Stearate 10.0
6. Triglycerol Di -i sostearate 5.5 7. Propy l -P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.1 8 . Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.2 9. Sorbitol (70%) 5.0 10. Borax 0.3 1 1 .Water 59.7 Procedure:
Weigh 1-5 and heat to 85C with slow agitation. This wax blend has a cloud point o f 79C. Above the cloud point all waxes will eventually dissolve in blend. I f a higher solvating temperature is used, solvation can be much faster. Hold the wax blend at 70-8OC and add 6 and 7 to it with stirring until all has dissolved. Heat 8-11 to 85-9OC and stir gently until all has dissolved. Hold at 70-8OC.
Place wax blend in mixing container, add aqueous phase to it and shear with homomixer or colloid mill. At 53C the crude dispersion inverts and a thick creamy emulsion forms. Continue shearing while scraping the sides of the container to make sure the whole content is properly sheared. Add perfume, de-aerate and package. Ref: 5011-18-6
5. Lanolin Alcohol ( L 101) 5.0
General Purpose Water/Oil Cream
1 , A-C Polyethylene 617 2 . 0 2. Beeswax 4.0 3. Mineral Oil 15.0 4 . Arlacel 83 5.5 5. Propyl -P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.1 6. Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2 7. Sorbitol (70%) 5.0 8. Borax 0.3 9. Water 67.9 Procedure:
a cloud point of approximately 80C. Above the cloud point all waxes will eventually dissolve in the blend. If a higher solvating temperature is used, solvation can be much faster. Hold the wax blend at 85C. Heat 5-9 to 85-9OC and stir gently until all has dissolved. Hold at 85C.
Place wax blend in mixing container, add aqueous phase to it and shear with homomixer or colloid mill. At 50C the crude dis- persion inverts and a thick creamy emulsion forms. Continue shearing while scraping the sides of the container to make sure the whole content is properly sheared. Add perfume, de-aerate and package. Ref: 5011-18-5 SOURCE: Allied Signal Inc.: Suggested Formulations
Weigh 1-4 and heat to 85C with slow agitation. The blend has
Creams 143
General Purpose W/O Cream KtA
1 . A-C Po lye thy lene 617 2 . 0 2 . Beeswax 3 . 0 3 . Rewomid S-280 1 . o 4 . Amerchol CAB 5 . 0 5 . M i n e r a l O i l 1 1 . o 6 . I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e 8 . 8 7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i i s o s t e a r a t e 3 . 0 8 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 5 . 0 9 . Borax 0 . 3 10.Germal l 115 0 . 2 11 .Magnesium S u l f a t e 0 . 3 12. Water 60 .0 Procedure:
Weigh 1-7 and heat t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v - a t i n g tempera ture i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 8-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.
P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 76C t h e c rude d i s - p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion fo rms. Cont inue shear ing w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make su re t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de-aera te and package .
General Purpose W/O Creamy/tv
1 . A-C Po lye thy lene 617 2 . 0 2 . A-C Copolymer 540 3 . 0 3 . Rewomid S-280 1 . o 4 . Amerchol Cab. 5 . 0 5 . M i n e r a l O i l 1 1 . o 6 . I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e 8 . 8 7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i i s o s t e a r a t e 3 . 0 8 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 5 . 0 9 . Borax 0 . 3 10.Germall 115 0 .2 1 1 .Magnesium S u l f a t e 0 . 3 12. Water 60.0 Procedure:
a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v - a t i n g tempera ture i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 8-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.
P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 76C t h e c rude d i s p - e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion fo rms. Cont inue shear ing w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make su re t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de-aera te and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S igna l I n c . : Formula 5011-19-3/5011-19-4
Weigh 1-7 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has
144 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
General Purpose W/O Cream
1 . A-C P o l v e t h v l e n e 617 2 . A-c Copblymir 3 . Amerchol L -10 4 . M i n e r a l O i l 5 . Dow F l u i d 556 6 . 2 -E thy l Hexyl 7 . A r l a c e l 83 8 . S o r b i t o l (70% 9 . Borax 10.Germal l 115 11 .Water Procedure:
Weigh 1-7 and a c l o u d o o i n t o f
540
S t e a r a t e
W t % 2 . 0 2 . 0 5 . 0
10 .0 3 . 0 5 . 0 5 . 5 5 . 0 0 . 3 0 . 5
61 . 7
hea t t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has aoorox ima te l v 80C. Above t h e c l o u d o o i n t a l l , .
waxes w i i l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v - a t i n g tempera tu re i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 8-11 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.
P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 79C t h e c rude d i s p - e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion forms. Cont inue s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make su re t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de-aerate and package.
General Purpose W/O CreamW t %
1 . A -C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 3 . 0 2 . Beeswax 2 . 0 3 . Amerchol 1-101 5 . 0 4 . M i n e r a l O i l 8 . 2 5 . Dow F l u i d 200-350 cps 1 . o 6 . 2 -E thy l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 1 0 . 0 7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i i s o s t e a r a t e 5 . 5 8 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 1 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 5 . 0 10. Borax 0 .3 11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2 12.Water 59 .7 Procedure:
a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v - a t i n g tempera tu re i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 9-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.
P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 68C t h e c rude d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion forms. Con t inue s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de -ae ra te and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Formulas R e f . 5011-20-4/5011-22-1
Weigh 1-8 and heat t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has
Creams 145
General Purpose W/O Cream
1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 3 . 0 2 . Beeswax 2 .0 3 . Amerchol L-101 5 . 0 4. M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 8 . 2 5 . Dow F l u i d 200, 350 c s . 1 . o 6 . 2 -E thy l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 10 .0 7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i i s o s t e a r a t e 5 . 5 8 . P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 0 .1 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 5 . 0 10.Sodium Bora te , Anhydrous 0 . 3 11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.2 12.Germal l 115 0 .3 13. Water 5 9 . 4
a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v - a t i n g tempera tu re i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 9-13 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.
P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 67C t h e c rude d i s p - e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion forms. Con t inue s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make su re t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de -ae ra te and package.
Weigh 1-8 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has
General Purpose W/O Cream W B
1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 3 . 5 2. A-C Copolymer 540 1 .5 3 . Beeswax 2 .0 4 . L a n t r o l 9 . 5 5 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 1 5 . 0 6 . I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e 10 .0 7 . 2 - E t h y l Hexy l S t e a r a t e 1 0 . 0 8 . A r l a c e l 83 5 . 5 9 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 1 10 . So rb i t o 1 (70%) 7 . 0 11 .Borax 0 . 3 12.Magnesi um S u l f a t e 0 . 3 13.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 .2 14.Germal l 115 0 . 2 15 . Water 34 .9
Weigh 1-9 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . T h i s wax b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r tempera tu re i s used, t h e s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 80-85C. Heat 10-15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l i s d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.
P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i 11 . A t app rox ima te l y 80C t h e c rude d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s . Some wa te r may not be c o m p l e t e l y taken up a t t h i s p o i n t b u t c o n t i n u e d s h e a r i n g w i l l i n c o r p o r a t e i t SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Formula Ref:5011-24-2/Ref: 5011-24-4
146 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
General Purpose W/O Cream1 . A-C Po lye thy lene 617 3 .0% 2. A-C Copolymer 540 2 . 0 3. Beeswax 2 .0 4. L a n t r o l 9 . 5 5 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 15.0 6 . I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e 1 0 . 0 7 . 2 - E t h y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 10 .0 8 . A r l a c e l 83 5 . 5 9 . Propy l -P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 .1 10. So rb i t o 1 (70%) 7 .0 11 . Borax 0 . 3 12 .Magnesi um S u l f a t e 0.3 13.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2 14.Germal l 115 0 . 2 15. Water 34.9 Weigh 1-9 and heat t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b lend . I f a h i g h e r s o l v - a t i n g tempera ture i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 10-15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C. Place wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer or c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 80C t h e c rude d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion fo rms. Cont inue shear ing w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make su re t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de-aera te and package.
General Purpose W/O Cream 1 . A-C Po lye thy lene 617 2 . 0 % 2 . A-C Copolymer 540 3 .0 3. Beeswax 2 . 0 4 . L a n t r o l 9 . 5 5 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 1 5 . 0 6 . I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e 10 .0 7 . 2 -E thy l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 10.0 8 . A r l a c e l 83 5 . 5 9 . Propy l -P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 1 1 0 . Sorbi t o 1 (70%) 7 . 0 11 .Borax 0.3 12.Magnesium S u l f a t e 0.3 13.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2 14.Germal l 115 0 . 2 15. Water 34.9 Weigh 1-9 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . T h i s wax b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f approx ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n b lend . I f a h i g h e r tempera ture i s used, t h e s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 80-85C. Heat 10-15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l i s d i s - so l ved . Ho ld a t 85C. Place wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t app rox ima te l y 80C t h e c rude d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s . Some water may n o t be comp le te l y taken up a t t h i s p o i n t b u t c o n t i n u e d shear ing w i l l i n c o r p o r a t e i t a l l . Add perfume, de -ae ra te and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S igna l I n c . : Ref: 5011-24-5/Ref: 5011-24-6
Creams 147
General Purpose W/O CreamW S
1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A 3.0 2 . Beeswax 2 . 0 3 . N i m l e s t e r o l D 5 . 0 4 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 8 . 2 5 . Dow F l u i d 200-350 cps 1 . o 6 . 2 -E thy l Hexy l S t e a r a t e 10 .0 7 . Emerest 2452 5 . 5 8 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 1 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 5 . 0 1 0 . Borax 0 . 3 11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2 12. Water 59.7
a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v - a t i n g tempera tu re i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 05C. Heat 9-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.
Place wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 68C t h e c rude d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion forms. Cont inue shear ing w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de -ae ra te and package.
Weigh 1-0 and heat t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has
Mineral Oil Cream W/Out3
1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 3 . 0 2 . A-C Copolymer 540 1 . o 3 . Beeswax 2 . 0 4 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 25 .0 5 . I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e 3 . 0 6 . 2 -E thy l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 9 . 4 7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i i s o s t e a r a t e 3 . 5 0 . P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 0 . 2 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 7 . 0 10.Sodium Bora te , Anhydrous 0 . 3 11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 3 12.Magnesium S u l f a t e 0 . 3 13.Water 45 .0
a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v - a t i n g tempera tu re i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 05C. Heat 9-13 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.
P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer or c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 77C t h e c rude d i s p - e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion forms. Cont inue s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make su re t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de-aereate and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d Signal I n c . : Formula Ref 5011-22-1A/5011-22-4
Weigh 1 -3 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has
148 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
General Purpose W/O Cream
KtB 1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A 2 . 0 2. A-C Copolymer 540 3 . 0 3 . Beeswax 2 . 0 4 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 1 5 . 0 5 . Dow F l u i d 334 9 . 5 6 . I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e 10.0 7 . 2 -E thy l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 10.0 8 . A r l a c e l 83 5 . 5 9 . P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 0 . 1 1 0 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 7 . 0 11 .Borax 0 . 3 12 .Magnesi um S u l f a t e 0.3 13.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2 14.Germal l 115 0 . 2 15 . Water 34 .9 Procedure:
a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v - a t i n g tempera tu re i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 10-15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.
and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 80C t h e c rude d i s p - e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion forms. Con t inue s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de -ae ra te and package. Re f : 501 1-31 -2
Weigh 1-9 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has
P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t
Oil-In-Water Cream and Its Scrub Derivative
1 . A-C 617 P o l y e t h y l e n e 2.0% 2 . S t e a r i c A c i d 0 . 5 3 . Lanogene ( l a n o l i n a l c o h o l & m i n e r a l o i l ) 6 .0 4 . I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e 12.5 5 . S o r b i t a n Monostearate 1 . 3 6 . Po lyoxye thy lene 20 S o r b i t a n Monostearate 1 . 8 7 . Sorbo ( s o r b i t o l 70%, water 30%) 5 . 0 8 . Carbopol 940 1 . o 9 . Gerrnaben I 1 0.8 10. Water 68.35 11 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 . 7 5 12.Perfume Q.S. Procedure:
Weigh 1-6, t h e n weigh 7 -10 . Heat 7-10 w i t h a g i t a t i o n u s i n g a homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . When t h e aqueous s o l u t i o n reaches 85C, hea t o i l phase t o 90-95C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l t h e wax has d i s s o l v e d . Combine 1-10 and shear u n t i l m i x t u r e i s homogeneous. Add 11 and shear w e l l . Cool t o 55C and add 12.
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Creams 149
General Purpose W/O Hand Cream
1 . 2 . 3 . 4 . 5 . 6 . 7 . 8 . 9 .
A-C Po lye thy lene 61 7A Beeswax Amerchol L-101 Dow 200 F l u i d , 350 cs 2 -E thy l Hexyl S t e a r a t e T r i g l y c e r o l D i i s o s t e a r a t e I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate Sorb i t o 1
Wt% 3 . 0 2 .0 5 . 0 1 . o
10.0 5 . 5 8 . 2 0 . 1 5 . 0
10.Sodium Bora te , Anhydrous 0 . 3 11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2 12.Germall 115 0 .3 13.Water 59 .4 Procedure:
Weigh 1-8 and heat t o 85-9OC w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t , a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g tempera ture i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 85-9OC. Heat 9-13 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85-9OC.
and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 75C, t h e c rude d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion fo rms. Cont inue shear ing w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make su re t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de-aera te and package. Ref : 5189-4-10
P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t
Oil-In-Water Cream
% 1 . A-C 540 2 .0 2. Dow Corn ing S i l i c o n e 344 3 . 0 3 . Lanogene 5 . 0 4 . S o r b i t a n Monostearate ( A r l a c e l 60) 1 .3 5 . Po lyoxye thy lene 20 S o r b i t a n Monostearate (Tween 60) 1 .E 6 . I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e 7 . 0 7 . E s c a l o l 507 4.0 8 . Sorbo ( S o r b i t o l 70%) 5 . 0 9 . Carbopol 941 1 . o 10.Germaben I 1 0.8 11 .Water Balance 12 .T r ie thano lami ne (TEA) 0 .75 13.Perfume Q.S. Procedure:
Weigh 1-7, t hen weigh o u t 8-11. Heat 7-10 w i t h a g i t a t i o n u s i n g a c o l l o i d m i l l o r homomixer. When t h e aqueous s o l u t i o n reaches 856, heat 1-6 t o 95C. Combine 1-10 u n t i l w e l l mixed, t h e n add TEA and shear u n t i l a l l appears t o be homogeneous. Cool t o 55C and add perfume and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S igna l I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
150 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Gentle Night Repair Cream
T h i s p r o d u c t encapsu la tes an a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t which can decrease t h e o x i d a t i o n of a p r e c i o u s compound t h e r e b y i n c r e a s i n g s h e l f l i f e and r e d u c i n g t h e chance of r a n c i d i t y . The emuls ion i s v e r y s t a b l e , q u i c k l y p e n e t r a t e s t h e s k i n and leaves a s i l k y f e e l . O i l Phase: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen) 7.10% O z o k e r i t e Wax 160/164 (Kos ter Keunen) 2.20% L i g h t M i n e r a l O i l (Wi tco) 7.60% I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) 3.00% G l y c e r i n e Monostearate (Henkel ) 1.20% PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ( L i po) 1.00% E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1.00%
V i t a m i n E (Roche) 0.10% V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) 0.10% S a f f l o w e r O i l ( L i p o ) 2.00% L iquapar ( S u t t o n ) 0.50% Wheat Germ O i l ( L i p o ) 3.00% Squalane (Centerchem) 2.00% Propylene G l y c o l D i o c t a n a t e ( I n o l e x ) 4.00% S i l i c o n e 200/100 (Dow) 2.00% Water Phase: Water (D i s t i 1 l e d ) 35.8% Methy l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) 0.30% Sodi um B o r a t e (Borax) 0.60% Carbopol 940 2% 10.00% A c t i v e Phase: Phenoni p (N i pa) 0.50% H y a l u r o n i c A c i d ( A c t i v e Organ ics) 1 .OO% F i r m i n g Liposome (Centerchem) 4.00% APT (Centerchem) 3.00% Procedure:
Heat t h e components o f t h e o i l phase, mix and m a i n t a i n a t a tempera ture o f 82C. I n a separa te vesse l d i s s o l v e t h e components o f t h e water phase w h i l e m i x i n g and i n c r e a s i n g t h e tempera ture t o 80C. Add t h e o i l phase t o t h e water phase under moderate a g i t a t i o n , and c o o l s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g . When a tempera ture o f 40C i s mixed, add phenonip. Cool t o 35C and add t h e t h r e e ac- t i v e s . Cool t o room tempera ture . Adapt ion o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :
You can s u b s t i t u t e your p r e f e r r e d secondary e m u l s i f i e r and some o i l s w i t h o n l y s l i g h t changes t o v i s c o s i t y , g l o s s , e t c . The c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f Cera B e l l i n a (CTFA=Pg-3 Beeswax) can o n l y be s l i g h t l y a l t e r e d s i n c e i t h e l p s c o n t r o l c o n s i s t e n c y and t h e m i c e l l e s i z e and shape. The water s o l u b l e b i o l o g i c a l l y a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s a r e w e l l p r o t e c t e d i n t h i s t y p e o f emuls ion a l l o w i n g you t o i n c o r p o r a t e a wide range o f a c t i v e compounds. A fo rmula- t i o n o f t h i s t y p e i s n o t a f f e c t e d by i o n i c s t r e n g t h .
SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
I n c r o p o l SC-20 (Croda) 4.00% I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) 4.00%
Creams 151
Glossy Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
B r i j 721s
B Water, d e i o n i z e d Carbopol 934
0-
10.00 4 .00
85.50 0 .10
C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W / W aqueous) 0 . 1 0
D D o w i c i l 200 0 . 1 0
E Fragrance 0 .20
Procedure:
b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) . Add ( D ) when t h e tempera tu re drops below 50C. Add ( E ) below 40C. Add wa te r t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
Heat (A) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w l y u s i n g
Glossy Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l B r i j 721s B r i j 72
%w/w 12.00 4.00 2.80 2 . 2 0
B Water, d e i o n i zed 78 .80
C D o w i c i l 200 0 . 1 0
D Fragrance 0 . 1 0
Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C w i t h good p r o p e l l e r a g i t -
a t i o n . Add (C) a t 50C and mix t h o r o u g h l y . Add (D) a t 35C. Add water t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
152 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Glycolic Acid Cream
A r i c h cream w i t h t h e b e n e f i t s o f an alpha-hydroxy a c i d . I n c o r p o r a t i o n o f Geahlene 750 he lps m o i s t u r i z e t h e s k i n and g i v e s i t a r i c h , s i l k y a f t e r f e e l .
I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: De ion i zed Water Maanesium Aluminum S i l i ca te /Veeaum U l t r a Xanthan Gum/Kel t r o l Methylparaben B u t y l ene G1 y c o l Te t rasod ium EDTA/Hamp-Ene 220
M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Bu ty lene /E thy lene / S ty rene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated E thy lene / Propy lene/Sty rene Copolymer//Geahlene 750
-
DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amphisol C12-15 A 1 k y l Benzoate/Fi n s o l v TN Propylparaben C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 16 S t e a r i c A c i d/Emersol 132
D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea/Germall I I G l y c o l i c Ac i d/G1 ypure 70%
Dei o n i zed Water Sodi um Hydrox ide
Wei qh t% 61 . O O
1 . o o 0 . 3 0 0.20 5 .00 0.10
9-00 2.00 5 .00 0 . 1 0 2 .00 4.00
0 .30 8 . 0 0
1 . o o 1 . o o
Procedure: D ispe rse Veegum i n r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i z e d water ( p a r t A ) .
Add K e l t r o l . Heat t o 80C. Mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . I n a separa te con t - a i n e r , heat p a r t B t o 8OC and mix u n t i l a l l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s - o l v e d . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . M ix f o r 30 minu tes u n t i l comp le te l y homogeneous. Cool t o 50C. Add p a r t C and mix w e l l . Add premixed p a r t D . Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 30C. Add f r a g r a n c e a t 30C i f d e s i r e d .
SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested Fo rmu la t i on
Creams 153
Hand and Body Cream
A r i c h , p r o t e c t i v e hand and body cream designed t o r e l i e v e dryness and l e a v e t h e s k i n s o f t and s i l k y smooth. Geahlene 750 p r o v i d e s l o n g - l a s t i ng moi s t u r i z a t i o n , a p e r c e p t i b l e c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t , and an e l e g a n t a f t e r f e e l .
I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: De ion i zed Water Carbomer/CarboDol 940 Propylene G1 y c o l Methy lparaben Panthenol /DL-Panthenol
M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Buty lene/Ethy lene/ S ty rene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Ethy lene/ Propy lene/Styrene Copolymer//Geahlene 750
Propylene G l y c o l D i c a p r r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e / / M y r i t o 1 PC I s o s t e a r y l A l c o h c l / P r i s o r i ne 351 5 Propylparaben C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 16 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e / A r l a c e l 165 Potass i um C e t y l Phosphate/Amphi s o l K Tocophery l A c e t a t e / V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e
Tr ie thano lamine, 99%
D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germal l I 1
Soy Lecithin/Sedermasome Fragrance
Wei u h t % 70.60 0.20 7.00 0.20 0 . 1 0
7 . 0 0 5.00 2.00 0 .10 2.00 2 . 5 0 1 . 7 5 0.10
0 .15
0 . 2 0
1 . 0 0 0.10
Procedure: D i sperse Carbomer i n t o r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d dei o n i zed water . Add
remain ing p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat t o 75-80C and mix u n t i l u n i - form and lump- f ree . Combine p a r t B . Heat t o 80C and mix u n t i l a l l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A. M ix f o r 30 minutes w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add p a r t C . M ix u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y smooth and homogeneous. Cool t o 50C. Add p a r t D . Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t E . Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 30C.
SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
154 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
High Content Mineral Oil Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i 1, (Carna t ion brand)
B r i j 721s B r i j 72
w 70.00
3.70 3 .30
B Water, d e i o n i zed 22.60
C Sodium hyd rox ide (10% aqueous) 0 .10
D D o w i c i l 200 0.10
E Herbal f r a g r a n c e (SL 79-1224, P W ) 0.20
Procedure:
moderate anchor t y p e a g i t a t i o n and add ( C ) . Add ( D ) a t about 50C. Add (E) a t 35C and add water t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Formula PC-9026
Heat (A) t o 65C and (B ) t o 60C. Add (A) t o ( 8 ) s l o w l y w i t h
O/W Pe t ro la tum Cream
I n q r e d i e n t s : A Pe t ro la tum, w h i t e
B r i j 721, POE 21 s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 72, POE 2 s t e a r y l e t h e r Dimethicone (350 c s . )
B Water, d e i on i zed Carbomer 934
%w/w 35.00 1 .oo 4.00 3.00
56.70 0.10
C NaOH, 10% aqueous s o l u t i o n 0.10
D Germal l I 1 0.10
Procedure:
anchor s t i r r i n g . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) below 50C. S t i r t o 35C and add any water l o s t due t o evapora t i on . Formula CP 1090
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suuuested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( 8 ) t o 72C. Add (B) to ( A ) w i t h moderate
Cream 155
Hydrocortisone CreamI n Q r e d i e n t s : %w/w Phase A : Propy l ene G1 y c o l 5 .0 G l y c e r i n 2 . 5 Water 10.0 Hydroco r t i sone USP (0 .5 /1 . O ) Phase B: Water Q.S. P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S . Phase C : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 Me thy lg lucose D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care 450) 3 . 0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t OS) 6 . 0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegoso f t OP) 5 .0 M i n e r a l O i l 5 .5 G1 y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Tegi n M) 1 .B S t e a r y l A1 coho1 0 . 8 C e t y l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o Phase D: Fragrance Q.S . Procedure: 1. 2.
3.
4 .
5. 6 .
M ix Phase A t o d i s s o l v e t h e a c t i v e . Add t h e ba lance o f t h e water o f Phase B p l u s t h e p r e s e r v - a t i v e s . ( A l l o w f o r water l o s s d u r i n g manu fac tu r ing ) . Heat A/B t o 70C. Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase C. M ix . M a i n t a i n tempera ture o f 70C. Begin c o o l i n g when f u l l y d i spe rsed . Beg in homogenizat ion a t 60C. Homogenize w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 35C Add f r a g r a n c e w i t h sweep m i x e r .
All Natural Cream (W/O type)
I nQred ien ts : Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 O lea te ( I s o l a n GO 33) 4.0 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 1 .5 Beeswax 1.5 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosof t OS) 11 .5 Ce tea ry l Octanoate (Tegosof t L i q u i d ) 11 .5 Phase B: G1 y c e r i n 2 .5 D-panthenol 0 .5 Magnesium S u l f a t e 0 .5 Water 66 .5 Phase C: F ragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1. Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o a mix t a n k . Heat t o 80-85C
2. M ix t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B. Heat t o 65-70C. 3 . Add Phase 0 t o Phase A . Homogenize and coo l t o 40C w i t h m i x i n g 4 . Add t h e f rag rance . Cool and f i l l . SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
and d i s p e r s e t h e waxes. Cool t o 65-70C.
I56 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hydrogen Peroxide Cream
I n s r e d i e n t s : w A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e p ressed 6.00
A r l a c e l 60 2 .00 Tween 60 3.00
B Water, d e i o n i zed 71.72 Phenacet in 0.04 Disodium e thy lened ia rn ine te t ra -ace ta te d i h y d r a t e 0.10
C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 35% d i l u t i o n grade 17.14 D Phosphor ic a c i d , 10% C . P . , as r e q u i r e d
Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (8) t o 72C. Add (B ) t o (A) s l o w l y
w i t h thorough a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C. w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compen- s a t e f o r l o s t water due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add (C) . A d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 b y add ing ( D ) .
Hydrogen Peroxide Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s : A C e t y l a l c o h o l
A r l a c e l 40 Tween 40
B Water, d e i o n i zed C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e (10% d i l u t i o n grade) D Phosphor ic a c i d (10% C . P . ) as r e q u i r e d
w 10.00
2 .00 3 .00
17.14 67.86
Procedure:
w i t h thorough a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C. w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compensate f o r l o s t water due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add (C) . A d j u s t pH t o 3 .5 -4 .0 by adding (D) .
Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (8) t o 72C. Add (8) t o (A) s l o w l y
Hydrogen Peroxide Cream
I n q r e d i e n t s : A C e t y l a l c o h o l
B Water, d e i o n i zed C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e (10% d i l u t i o n grade) D Phosphor ic a c i d (10% C.P.) a5 r e q u i r e d
A r l a c e l 165
%&y 10.00
2.50 70.36 17.14
Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add (8 ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h
thorough a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C. w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compensate f o r l o s t water due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add (C) . A d j u s t pH t o 3.5-4.0 b y adding ( D ) .
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams 157
Hydroxy Acid Cream(W/O Emuls ion)
I n g r e d i e n t s : w Phase A: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimeth icone Copolyo l
(and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5 . 5 C e t y l Dimeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o Cyc 1 omet h i cone 5 .0 Isohexadecane 4.0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosof t OS) 5 .0 S t e a r y l Heptanoate (Tegosof t SH) 2.5 Beeswax 0 . 6 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 6 Phase 8 : Water 6 7 . 7 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 6 L a c t i c A c i d (44% S o l u t i o n ) 5 . 0 Sodium S a l i c y l a t e 1 . 5 P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S . Sodium L a c t a t e (and) Sodium PCA (and) G l y c i n e (and)
F r u c t o s e (and) I n o s i t o l (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l ) 1 . o
Phase C: Fragrance Q . S . Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A i n a c l o s e d k e t t l e t o 85C, m i x i n g u n t i l
a l l components a r e f u l l y d i s p e r s e d o r s o l u b i l i z e d . When un i fo rm, c o o l t o 45-5OC.
2. Mix t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o g e t h e r . Heat t o 40-45C. 3. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h s o f t p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n (150-250
4. Homogenize a t 35-40C. 5 . Add f r a g r a n c e . RPM's). M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m .
Moisturizing CreamCold Process
W/OI n a r e d i e n t s : Phase A: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimeth icone Copolyo l (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5 .0
M i n e r a l O i l 5 .0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s (Tegosof t CT) 5 .0 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (Tegosof t M) 5.0 Phase 8 : Water 79.2 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 .8 P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q.S. Perfume Q . S . C o l o r Q.S. Procedure: 1 . M ix t h e o i l s o f Phase A t o g e t h e r . M i x w e l l . 2. D i s s o l v e t h e
3 . Add Phase 6 s l o w l y i n t o Phase A w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 4 . Homogenize 5 . P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume and c o l o r can be added a t any t i m e . SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggested Formula t ions
sodium c h l o r i d e i n t h e w a t e r . M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m .
158 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Light Texture Hand Creme
T h i s h i g h humectant creme p r o v i d e s a non-greasy, l o n g l a s t i n g s o o t h i n g f e e l .
P a r t A : Phosphol i p i d SV S teare th-20 G1 ycer i n Methyl Paraben Water
P a r t 0 : Steare th -2 Ce tea ry l A l coho l Myr i s t y l My r i s t a t e F i n s o l v TN I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e D imeth icone (100 cS) Propy l Paraben
% BY Weiaht 3 . 0 0 0 .45 5 .00 0 .25
77.75
0 .80 3 . 5 0 3 .50 1 . 5 0 3 . 0 0 1 . o o 0.25
Procedure: Heat b o t h phases t o 65C, and homogenize t h e o i l phase i n t o
t h e water phase. S t i r - c o o l t o 40C and add f rag rance , c o l o r i n g o r p r e s e r v a t i v e
Th exce l n i g h t
s e legan t e n t rub o s k i n c a r e .
as r e q u i r e d .
Facial Moisture Creme
f o r m u l a t i o n p r o v i d e s h i g h mo f r e s i s t a n c e , and i s i d e a l l y
P a r t A : Phosphol i p i d SV S teare th-20 Methy l Paraben Water
P a r t 0 : Steare th -2 C e t e a r y l A l coho l Myr i s t y l My r i s t a t e I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e Dimethicone (1OOcS) L a n o l i n A l coho l Propy l Paraben
Procedure:
s t u r i z a t i on, s u i t e d f o r ove r -
% BY Weiaht 3 . 0 0 0 .20 0 . 2 5
81 - 5 0
1 . 3 0 4 .00 4.00 4.00 1 - 0 0 0 . 5 0 0 .25
Heat b o t h phases t o 65C, and homogenize t h e o i l phase i n t o t h e water phase. S t i r - c o o l t o 40C and add f rag rance , c o l o r i n g o r p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d .
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , Inc . : P h o s p h o l i p i d SV: Suggested Formu 1 a t i ons
Creams 159
Mixed Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream
R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a v i scous f i r m cream, most a p p r o p r i a t e l y dispensed f rom a j a r . The a lpha hydroxy a c i d s (AHA's) c o n t a i n e d i n t h i s fo rmu la c o n s i s t s o f M a l i c , C i t r i c and L a c t i c A c i d s . The t o t a l use l e v e l o f AHA's c o n t a i n e d i n t h e fo rmu la i s approximate- l y 8.5%. T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s a combina t ion a n i o n i c (Lexemul AS) and n o n i o n i c (Lexemul 561) emuls ion system.
A . De ion i zed Water Methylparaben (Lexgard M ) 2,4-D ich lo robenzy l A l coho l (Myacide SP) Propylene G1 y c o l USP
64.70 0.20 0 . 2 0 1 .00
E . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (Lexemul AS) 4.00
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 2.10 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 3 . 0 0 C e t y l A l coho l NF (Ado1 52) 1 .oo Capry l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Lexo l GT-865) 3 . 0 0 O c t v l S t e a r a t e (Lexo l EHS) 2 . 0 0
2 . 0 0 0 .10 0 . 1 0
Avocado O i l Tocopherol (Copherol 1300) Buty lparaben (Lexgard E )
C . De ion i zed Water M a l i c A c i d (Granu la r ) Sodium C i t r a t e USP-FCC L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%) Sodium L a c t a t e (Purasa S/SP 60%
4.50 0 .60 3 . 0 0 0.60 7 .90
Procedure: 1 .
2 .
3 .
4 . 5. 6 .
7 . 8.
Combine s e c t i o n "A" h e a t i n g t o 75-80C. Use a p r o p e l l e r m ixe r f o r a g i t a t i o n . Combine s e c t i o n "B" h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. A g i t a t e s l o w l y w i t h a p r o p e l 1 e r mixer . When s e c t i o n s "A" & "B" a r e homogeneous and a t t h e des ignated tempera tures s l o w l y add "B' t o "A" t hen beg in c o o l i n g . Reduce m i x i n g speed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p reven t v o r t e x i n g . A t 55-60C, add s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t i o n s "AB". When t h e b a t c h i s homogeneous and a t 35-45C a d j u s t f o r water 1 O S S . Mix t o 30C. A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 5 .00-5 .50 w i t h L a c t i c A c i d o r Sodium L a c t a t e .
Procedure: V i s c o s i t y : 10,000 cPs @ 24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT TC @ 10 rpm).
pH: 4.8 @ 24C. 24 hour sample.
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical C o . : Formu la t i on 398-104-5
160 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Multi-functional Day Cream
T h i s Bee 's M i l k f o r m u l a t i o n c r e a t e s a b a r r i e r t h a t e f f e c t i v e l y r e p l e n i s h e s mois tu re , s o f t e n s and i m p a r t s r a d i a n c e . T h i s w i l l combat d r y s k i n caused by v a r i a t i o n s i n h u m i d i t y and w i l l h e l p t o m i n i m i z e t h e s i g n s o f a g i n g .
Water Phase I: Bermocol E 481 ( W h i t t a k e r ) G l y c e r i n e (Unichema) Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
O i l Phase: N i k k o l L e c i n o l S-10-M ( B a r n e t ) Squal ane (Po l y e s t h e r ) Macademia Nut O i l ( T r i - K ) Borage O i l ( T r i - K ) V i t a m i n E (BASF) V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) Kes ter Wax-62 ( K o s t e r Keunen) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Kos ter Keun O z o k e r i t e 158/160 ( K o s t e r Keunen) Cera A l b a l a t e 103 ( K o s t e r Keunen) P h y t o g l y c o l i p i d ( B a r n e t ) L i q u i p a r ( S u t t o n )
Water Phase 11: Bee 's M i l k ( K o s t e r Keunen)
en 1
0.4% 2.7%
52.1% 0 .2%
2.1% 7.9% 4.3% 2.9% 0.3% 0.3% 1.0% 0 .2% 0.3% 0.3% 4.0% 1 . 0 %
20.0%
Procedure:
o i l phase components, heat t i l l 75C and m i x . Add s l o w l y t h e water phase I t o t h e o i l phase under a g i t a t i o n (approx . 700 rpm) m a i n t a i n i n g m i x i n g a tempera ture o f 75C f o r 5 minutes (make s u r e t h a t m i x i n g does n o t exceed 800 rpm's , as a phase i n v e r s i o n w i l l o c c u r ) . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 50-55C, add water phase I1 a t room temperature, under moderate a g i t a t i o n (approx. 200 r p m ' s ) , c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 5 minu tes and pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r .
Adapt ion o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Sunscreens a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d t o g i v e t h i s p r o d u c t an
SPF o f 6-8 by u s i n g E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) a t approx imate ly 5% and r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f water and o r o i l s .
SOURCE: Koster Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
M i x and h e a t water phase I components t o 75C. Add a l l t h e
Creams 161
Multi-Purpose Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l , C a r n a t i o n
S t e a r y l a1 coho1 B r i j 721s B r i j 72
"/ow/w 1 5 . 0 0
5 .00 2.50 2.50
B Water, d e i o n i zed 74.70
C D o w i c i l 200 0 . 1 0
D Fragrance 0.20
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 50C and mix t h o r o u g h l y . Add ( D ) a t 35C Add water t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
Heat (A) t o 70C and (B) t o 75C w i t h good p r o p e l l e r
Versatile Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A C e t y l a l coho
B r i j 721s
B Water, d e i o n Carbopol 934
zed
w 1 0 . 0 0
4.00
85.50 0 . 1 0
C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W / W aqueous) 0 . 1 0
D D o w i c i l 200 0 . 1 0
E Fragrance 0 . 2 0
Procedure:
b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) when t h e tempera tu re drops below 50C. Add ( E ) below 40C. Add water t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 .5 -6 .5 .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat (A) t o 70C and (B) t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w l y u s i n g
162 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Night Cream (15% Aloe)
I n a r e d i e n t s : A . Water
Methylparaben Promul gen-D T r i e thano l ami ne
B. Ceraphyl-368 Kessco-653 Emerson-1 323 L i g h t M ine ra l O i l G l y c e r y l monostearate Propy lparaben Vybar-5013
C . A loe Veragel L i q u i d Concent ra te 1 :40
D . F ragrance
Aloe Bath Soap
I n n r e d i e n t s : Sodi um Laure th S u l f a t e (60%) D i sod i um Laure th Sul f o s u c c i n a t e
Percent 67.625
0 .2 2 . 0 0.75
1 0 . 0 3 .0 6 .0 6 .0 0 .05 2 .0 2.0
0.375
Percent 12 .0
7 . 0 Cocamidopropyl Be ta ine 6 .0 D i sod i um 01 eamido MEA Sul f o s u c c i na te 6 .0 A loe Veragel L i q u i d 1 : 1 5 . 0 C i t r i c A c i d q . s . t o pH 6 .0 Sodium C h l o r i d e q . s . t o 1M cps Water, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e , Fragrance 9.54. t o 100.0
Procedure: Add components t o water and hea t t o 40C. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y
w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e and p H w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Add dye, p rese rv - a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e and coo l t o room tempera ture .
SOURCE: D r , Madi s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Creams 163
Oil/Water Cold Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e p ressed
M ine ra l o i l Pe t ro la tum C e t y l a l c o h o l A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60
B G l y c e r i n T r ie thano lamine Water, d e i o n i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s
1 0 . 0 0 6 . 0 0 4.00 1 .oo 3.00 1 . 5 0
1 . o o 0 .60
72.90
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . Pour a t s l i g h t l y more t h a n room tempera tu re . Heat (A) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72'2. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h cons tan t
O/W Co ld Cream (Soap Free)
I n n r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l
Be e s w a x Tween 40 A t l a s G-1726, beeswax d e r i v a t i v e
B Water, d e i on i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e
C *Perfume
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
?6wJy 5 0 . 0 0
7 .00 2 . 0 0 8 .00
33.00
Procedure:
moderate b u t thorough a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 45C. S t i r u n t i l room tempera ture and package.
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat (A) t o 75C. Heat ( B ) t o 77C. Add (B) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h
164 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Oil/Water Moisturizing Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : O c t y l d ime thy l PABA M i n e r a l o i l S t e a r y l a l c o h o l B r i j 721s B r i j 72 D imeth icone
Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 940
Sodium hyd rox ide (10% W / W aqueous)
* P r e s e r v a t i v e *Fragrance
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
@yy 5.00 5 .00 0.50 2 .00 2.00 0.50
84.60 0 .20
0 . 2 0
Procedure:
65C and add (B) t o ( A ) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S low ly add (C) and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 50C. Add (D) and any water l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
D isperse Carbomer i n water and hea t (B) t o 60C. Heat (A) t o
Oil/Water Moisturizing Cream
I n q r e d i e n t s : O c t y l d ime thy l PABA Benzophenone-3 M ine ra l o i l S t e a r y l a l c o h o l B r i j 721s B r i j 72 D i methi cone
Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 940
Sodium hyd rox ide (10% W / W aqueous)
* P r e s e r v a t i v e *Fragrance
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
%B 7.00 3 .00 5 . 0 0 0 .50 2.00 2.00 0 .50
79.60 0 I20
0.20
Procedure:
65C and add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S low ly add ( C ) and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 50C. Add (D) and any water l o s t due t o evapora t i on .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
D ispe rse Carbomer i n water and hea t (B) t o 60C. Heat ( A ) t o
Creams 165
Oil/Water Night Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed
M i n e r a l o i l C e t y l a l c o h o l Beeswax Amerchol H-9 I s o p r o p y l 1 anol a t e A r l a c e l 165
B T r i e thano l ami ne P ropy l ene g l y c o l Water
C *Fragrance * P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
%w/w 3 .00 3 .50 3 . 0 0 2 . 5 0 4.00 1 . 5 0 6 . 0 0
1 . o o 2 . 5 0
73,OO
Procedure:
moderate b u t t ho rough a g i t a t i o n . Add f r a g r a n c e a t 50C and c o n t i n u e t o s t i r u n t i l room tempera tu re .
Heat (A) t o 8OC. Heat ( B ) t o 85C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h
W/O Night Cream
I n q r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 1689
Ar lamol HD Ar lamol M812 Ar lamol DOA P a r a f f i n o i l A e r o s i l R972
B G l y c e r o l MgS04.7H20 * P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
C Perfume R o c e l i a 74475
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s
3 .50 6 .00 2 . 0 0 2.00 8.00 0 . 5 0
4.00 0 . 5 0
73.35
0 . 1 5
Procedure: Heat phase (A) ( w i t h o u t A e r o s i l R972) t o 75C. S l o w l y add
A e r o s i l R972 w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Heat phase (B ) t o 75C. S l o w l y add phase (€3) t o phase (A) w h i l e s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y . A l l o w t o c o o l down w h i l e s t i r r i n g and add phase ( C ) and a l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g .
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
166 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Oil/Water Pigmented Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed
I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60
B Sorbo Propy lene g l y c o l T i t a n i urn d i o x i d e T a l c
C I r o n o x i d e Water
D * P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
%w/w 12.00
1 - 0 0 2 . 0 0 1 - 0 0
3.00 12.00
2 .00 8 . 0 0
1 . o o 58.00
Procedure:
s l o w l y w i t h cons tan t a g i t a t i o n . Add ( D ) . Homogenize i f necessary .
Heat (A) t o 9OC and ( B ) t o 95C. Add (6) and ( C ) t o (A)
O/W All-Purpose Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : S t e a r i c a c i d Lanol i n Beeswax M ine ra l o i l Tween 85 A r l a c e l 85
Sorbo 70% s o r b i t o 1 s o l u t i o n Water * P r e s e r v a t i v e
*Perfume
* q . s . t hese i ngred i e n t s .
%iw-/y 1 5 . 0 0
4 .00 2.00
23.00 1 . o o 1 - 0 0
12.20 41 .80
Procedure:
moderate b u t thorough a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 45C. S t i r u n t i l room tempera ture and package.
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat (A) t o 75C. Heat (6) t o 77C. Add (6) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h
Creams 167
Oil-in-Water-in-Oil Cream
O i 1 -i n-Water Phase: O i l Phase: Carna t ion M ine ra l O i 1 Pa ra f f i n C e t y l a l c o h o l Po lyoxye thy lene s o r b i t a n t r i s t e a r a t e D i g l y c e r i n monool ea te
Water Phase: B e n t o n i t e D e x t r i n P a l m i t a t e G1 y c e r i n Methylparaben Water
Add o i l - i n - w a t e r emuls ion t o t h e f o l l o w i n g o i l phase:
P a r a f f i n C e t y l A l coho l Beeswax S o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e S o r b i t a n monostearate Buty lparaben B e n t o n i t e D e x t r i n p a l m i t a t e Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1
15.00% 2 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 1 . o o 2.00
0 . 5 0 1 . 0 0 5.00 0 .10 29.80
5.00 3 .00 2.00 3 .00 1 . o o 0 . 1 0 0 . 5 0 1 . 0 0
25.00
Transparent Cleansing Cream
Di(po lyoxyethy1ene l a u r y l e t h e r ) phosphate sodium s a l t 5.00% G l y c e r y l t r i - 2 - e t h y l hexanoate 40 .00 Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 20.00 G l y c e r i n 30.00 Water 5.00
SOURCE: W i t co Corp . : Pe t ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
168 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Protective Hand Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 165
S t e a r i c a c i d P e t r o l a t u m Ar lamol HD Ar lamol E
B A t l a s G-2330 * P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
o/,w/w 6.00 2 . 0 0 7 . 0 0
10.00 3 . 0 0
4 . 0 0
66.35
C Fombl in HC/R 1 . 5 0
D *Perfume, Bouquet Eau de Mer PC 916.315 0 .15
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat phases (A) and (6) s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C. Add phase (A)
s l o w l y o ( 6 ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Add phase (C) and homogen se f o r 1 m inu te a t 75C. A l l o w t o coo l w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Homogen se aga in a t 40C a f t e r t h e a d d i t i o n o f phase ( D ) . A l l o w t o c o o l down t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g and package.
Hand Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E
B r i j 721s B r i j 72 S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
%w/w 8 . 0 0 2 . 4 0 2 . 6 0 4 . 0 0
B Water 82.80
C * P r e s e r v a t i v e
D Fragrance 0 .20
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure:
b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) when t h e tempera tu re d rops below 50C. Add ( E ) below 40C. Add wa te r t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . Formula S K - 5
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat (A) t o 70C and ( 8 ) t o 75C. Add ( 8 ) t o (A) s l o w l y u s i n g
Creams 169
Modified Oil-in-Water Stearic Acid Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed
Ar lamol E A r l a c e l 165
B Sorbo, s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n USP Water * P r e s e r v a t i v e
%m 8 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 5 . 0 0
1 0 . 0 0 75 I O 0
*q. s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s . Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o room tempera ture w i t h s t i r r i n g . Formula SK-2B
Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) w i t h r a p i d
Skin Cream
I n q r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 1 6 5 , a c i d s t a b l e g.m.s.
Lanol i n C e t y l a1 coho1 M i n e r a l o i l
B Propy lene g l y c o l Water, d e i o n i z e d
w 1 2 . 0 0
1 - 0 0 3 . 0 0 4 . 0 0
1 . o o 7 9 . 0 0
Procedure:
moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add water l o s t due t o evap- o r a t i o n .
Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (B) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h
Hand Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e p ressed
I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e o r m i n e r a l o i 1 A r l a c e l 165
B Sorbo Water, d e i o n i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e
*q. s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
y?y.y 20.00
2 .00 5 . 0 0
20 .00 5 3 . 0 0
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t .
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Formula t ions
Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat (6 ) t o 72C. Add (8 ) t o (A) r a p i d
170 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisturizer O/W Cream
T h i s p r o d u c t u t i l i z e s t h e minor components o f n a t u r a l p r o d u c t s t o d e l i v e r m i l d a n t i - m i c r o b i a l a c t i v i t y , which a l l o w s t h e f o r m u l a t o r t o reduce t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f s y n t h e t i c p res- e r v a t i v e s . The l i g h t y e l l o w c o l o u r e d cream q u i c k l y p e n e t r a t e s t h e s k i n , l e a v i n g a non-greasy f e e l and d i m i n i s h e s t h e s i g n s o f ag i ng by 1 a y i ng down a f 1 e x i b l e b a r r i e r .
O i l Phase: Orange Wax (Kos ter Keunen) NF Y e l l o w Beeswax (Kos ter Keunen) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Almond O i l ( A r i s t a ) M i n e r a l O i l (Wi tco) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel ) C e t y l s t e a r y l A lcoho l (P&G) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema)
Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d ) Propy lene G l y c o l (Dow) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 ( G a l l a r d & S c h l e s i n g e r ) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )
4 . 5 % 2.5% 1 .O% 3.0% 3 . 5 % 6.0% 6.0% 2.5%
6 7 . 0 % 1 . 5 % 1 .O% 0.2% 0.5%
Procedure:
o i l phase a t 75C under a g i t a t i o n . Cont inue m i x i n g t i l l c o o l .
A d a p t a t i o n o f fo rmula and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :
w i t h o u t a l t e r i n g t h e a e s t h e t i c s . Changing t h e t y p e s o f o i l s shou ld o n l y a l t e r t h e v i s c o s i t y , i f m a i n t a i n i n g s i m i l a r c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f o i 1 s. V i s c o s i t y changes a r e ach ieved by r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n of c e t y l s t e a r y l a l c o h o l and g l y c e r o l monostearate, by approx imate ly 30-40%, however t h i s may cause i n s t a b i 1 i t y .
SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, Inc . : Suggested Formula t ions
Add a mixed and u n i f o r m water phase t o a mixed and u n i f o r m
A c t i v e s a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o a p r o d u c t such as t h i s
Creams 171
Moisturizing Cream
T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n demonstrates a p o l y m e r i c approach t o o c c l u s i v e m o i s t u r i z a t i o n e l i m i n a t i n g u n d e s i r a b l e f e e l prop- e r t i e s o f p e t r o l a t u m o r o t h e r t r a d i t i o n a l o c c l u s i v e i n g r e d i e n t s .
Epolene N-34 wax i s a n o n - e m u l s i f i a b l e p o l y e t h y l e n e which p r o v i d e s a f i l m t h a t i s r e s i s t a n t t o wash-o f f . I t i s i n c o r p - o r a t e d i n t o t h i s emu1 s i on w i t h Eastman AQ 55 w a t e r - d i s p e r s i b l e p o l y e s t e r which a l s o c o n t r i b u t e s a p r o t e c t i v e f i l m . The wash- o f f r e s i s t a n c e i s due t o t h e i n a b i l i t y o f Epolene N-34 t o be e m u l s i f i e d by soap o r s u r f a c t a n t s . The dual f i l m - f o r m i n g a c t i o n o f t h i s polymer combina t ion has been shown t o reduce m o i s t u r e l o s s . I n v i t r o o c c l u s i v i t y d a t a i s a v a i l a b l e .
Phase A : D i s t i 1 l e d water Propy lene g l y c o l , USP
m 9 , s . t o 100
4.00
Phase 8 : Polawax e m u l s i f y i n g wax, NF 3 . 0 0 A r l a c e l 165 g l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e and PEG-100 s t e a r a t e 3.00 Myvero l 18-06 d i s t i l l e d monoglycer ide 3 .00 I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e 5.00 Robane squalane, NF 5.00 Epolene N-34 p o l y e t h y l e n e wax 1 .oo Phase C: D i s t i l l e d water Propy l ene g l y c o l Eastman AQ 555 polymer
Phase D: Eastman v i t a m i n E TPGS (20%)
Phase E: Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e
10.00 3.00 1 .oo
1 . o o
q . s . 9 , s .
Procedure: 1 . Prepare Phase C by adding propy lene g l y c o l t o water and heat -
i n g t o 95C and t h e n adding Eastman AQ 55s w i t h m i x i n g . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 70C.
2 . Heat Phase A w i t h m i x i n g t o 95C. 3 . Heat Phase B w i t h m i x i n g t o 105-llOC. 4 . Cool Phase 8 t o 95C and add t o Phase A w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x i n g . 5 . Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l t o 70C, a v o i d i n g a i r ent rapment . 6. A t 70C, add Phase C. 7. Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l t o 5OC; t h e n add Phase D and Phase E . 8 . W i t h m i x i n g , f o r c e c o o l t o room tempera ture . Product w i l l
t h i c k e n and form a cream a t 44C. pH: 5.5
SOURCE: Eastman Chemical Co.: F o r m u l a t i o n X20491-089
172 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Neck Firming Cream
The neck i s t h e most n e g l e c t e d p a r t o f t h e body and shows t h e f i r s t v i s i b l e s i g n s o f ag ing . The p roduc t d e l i v e r s a c t i v e s t o t h a t a rea i n a c o s t e f f e c t i v e p roduc t which has e m o l l i e n t and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s t h a t f i r m s t i n y l i n e s . Cont inued use h e l p s promote t h e l o o k o f f i r m , r e s i l i e n t , s o f t , y o u t h f u l - l o o k i n g s k i n .
Phase A : Orange Wax (Kos te r Keunen) E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF (Kos te r Keunen) Shea B u t t e r (Kos te r Keunen) S t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) M i n e r a l O i l (W i t co ) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) G l y c e r o l Monostearate ( K o s t e t Keunen) Squalane (Barne t ) P h y t o g l y c o l i p i d (Ba rne t ) C e t y l S t e a r y l A l coho l (P&G)
Phase 0 : Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) Carbopol 940 (BF Goodr ich) T r ie thano lamine (Dow) G l y c e r i n (Uni chema) A loe Vera Gel ( A c t i v e Organ ics) Propy lene G l y c o l (Dow) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )
Phase C : E l a s t o s o l Animal Co l l agen & E l a s t i n (Croda)
3.0% 5.0% 3.0% 3.0% 5.0% 5.0% 1.5% 3.0% 2.0% 0.5%
57.9% 0.2% 0.4% 2.0% 0.5% 2.0% 1.0%
5.0%
Procedure: Weigh o u t m a t e r i a l s f o r Phase A, heat t o 8OC and mix t i l l
homogeneous. Heat Phase B t o 75C. w h i l e m i x i n g . Add Phase A t o Phase 0 under r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C and add Phase C . Cont inue m i x i n g t i l l 35 t o 40C.
Adapt ion o f f o rmu la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Sunscreens a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o a fo rmu la o f t h i s
t y p e . By reduc ing t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f water and o r t h e o i l s , E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) can be s u b s t i t u t e d a t app rox ima te l y 5% t o produce a SPF o f 6-8.
SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on
Creams 173
Night Cream, Non-Greasy
A . M i g l y o l 812 I m w i t o r 900 M i g l y o l 840 I m w i t o r 370 I m w i t o r 375 C e t y l a l c o h o l F l u i l a n Emulan ODE 50
8 . G l y c e r o l Water
C . Perfume Prese rva t i ve
SS 18 .0 6 .0 5 . 0 6 .0 1 . o 1 . o 1 . o 1 . 5
6 . 0 t o 100.0
qs qs
P r e p a r a t i o n :
heated t o t h e same tempera ture and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . C . i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t approx . 30C.
The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and heated t o 80-85C. 8 . i s
O/W Cream, with Bacteriostat
A . S o f t i s a n 601 I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s M i g l y o l 829 S o f t i g e n 701 I m w i t o r 312 S o f t i s a n 649 S i l i c o n o i l 344 f l u i d
SS 20.0
8 . 0 5 . 0 5 .0 5 . 0 3 .0 1 . o
8 . Water t o 1 0 0 . 0
C . Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e
P r e p a r a t i o n :
a r e heated t o t h e same tempera ture and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . T h i s i s f o l l o w e d by s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o l d and i n c o r p o r a t i n g t h e perfume.
SOURCE: Huls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics:
The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e heated t o 75-8OC. Those o f B.
Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
174 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Protective Face and Body Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A . Cocoa b u t t e r
P e t r o l a t u m and l a n o l i n a l c o h o l (Amerchol CAB) S t e a r i c a c i d XXX G l y c o l s t e a r a t e E t h y l d i h y d r o x y p r o p y l PABA (Amerscreen P) Methy l g luce th-20 s e s q u i s t e a r a t e (Glucamate SS 20) Propy l paraben
Water Methy l g luce th-10 (Glucose E-10) Quaternium-6 (Merquat 100) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
D i a z o l i d i n y l u r a (Germal l 1 1 ) Fragrance C o l o r ( O p t i o n a l )
B. A l o e Veragel (Veragel L i q u i d 1 : l )
C . Methy l paraben
Percent 5.00 3 .00 5 .00 8 .50 5.00 2.00 0.10
50 .00 17.50
1 .oo 1 .50 1 .oo 0 .10 0.30
q . s . q . s .
Produc t C h a r a c t e r i a t i c s :
p r o t e c t i on.
Procedure:
m i x i n g . L e t c o o l t o approx imate ly 45-5OC. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e system and f r a g r a n c e . SPF i s approx i mate1 y 8-1 0 .
Non-tacky cream w i t h good r u b - i n q u a l i t y and n i c e sun
Heat phase (A) and (B ) s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h
Eye Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A . Water
Carrageenan Gum Propylene G1 y c o l S o r b i c A c i d Glycamate SSE-20
G l y c e r y l Mono-Stearate Soybean O i l S teare th-20 C e t y l A l c o h o l S teara te-2 Glucate-SS
B . P e t r o l a t u m
C. A l o e Veragel L i q u i d 1 : l
Percent q . s . 0.1 5 . 0 0.05 1 . 5
1 5 . 5 4 .0 2 . 0 0 . 5 0 . 5 0.2 2.0 5 .0
Procedure: Heat Phases t o 8OC. Add Phase B t o A a t BOC. L e t mix u n t i l
b a t c h i s a t 55C. Add a l o e g e l t o b a t c h s l o w l y . . M ix and c o o l t o below 40C.
SOURCE: D r . Madis L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions
Creams 175
Protective Face and Body Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A . O i l phase
M i n e r a l o i l Sweet Almond o i l Whi te P e t r o l a t u m G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e Whi te beeswax Tocopherol ( V i t a m i n E )
6 . A loe v e r a g e l (Veragel L i q u i d ) Magnesi urn alumi num s i 1 i c a t e (Veegum F) De ion i zed water O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA ( E s c a l o l 507) D i a z o l i d i n y l u rea (Germal l 1 1 ) Methy l Paraben Fragrance, c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e
Percent 13.50
3.00 13.50 5.50 3.50 3 .50 2.00
45.00 0.10 10.00 3.00 0 .35 0.15
9 . s .
Product C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s :
a l l o w i n g t a n n i n g w i t h some p r o t e c t i o n .
Procedure: Decrease 0 . 1 (%w/w) Veegum i n 10 (%w/w) water a t b o i l i n g
tempera ture w i t h m i x i n g , t h e n l e t c o o l t o a p p r o x i m a t e l y 70C. and add r e s t o f B (except f o r f r a g r a n c e ) and m a i n t a i n tempera ture . Heat ( A ) t o 70-75C., t h e n add (E) t o ( A ) w i t h m i x i n g . L e t c o o l t o 45C. Then add f r a g r a n c e , l e t c o o l f u r t h e r and package.
T h i s i s a good r u b - i n cream w i t h a SPF 6 ( a p p r o x i m a t e l y ) ,
Moisturizing Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A . M i n e r a l o i l and l a n o l i n o i l (Amerchol L-101)
Lanet h-5 I s o p r o p y l l a n o l a t e S t e a r i c a c i d XXX G l y c e r y l monostearate M i n e r a l o i l
6 . A loe v e r a g e l (Veragel L i q u i d 1 : l ) Propy lene g l y c o l T r i e thano l ami ne Propylene g l y c o l (and) d i a z o l i d i n y l u r e a (and)
methy l paraben (and) p r o p y l paraben (Germaben 11)
Procedure: Heat (A) and ( 6 ) s e p a r a t e l y t o 75 degrees C. M ix ( A )
u n i f o r m . Add (A) t o ( 6 ) w i t h c o n s t a n t s t i r r i n g and c o o l room tempera ture .
SOURCE: D r . Medis L a b o r a t o r i e s Inc . : Suggested Formulat
Percent 1 .oo 1 .oo 1 - 0 0 3.00 2-00 8.00
78.00 4.50 0.50
1.00
u n t i 1 t o
ons
176 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Rejuvenating Cream
I n q r e d i e n t s : A ) Cremophor A-6
Cremophor A-25 C u t i n a GMS Lanet te -0 S t e a r i c A c i d P a r a f f i n o i l C e t i o l SN Vase1 i ne w h i t e Abi 1-350
B) Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d I m i dazol i d i n y l u rea Phenoni p G l ycer i n G l y c o l i c a c i d M a l i c a c i d Pentav i t i n Immucel l
C) Fragrance/Chiara 0/238927
% w/w 2,50 2,50 4,00 3,00 1 ,oo
10,00 5,00 3,00 0,40
55 I 60 0,20 0,50 3,00 2,00 1 ,oo 3,00 3,00 0,30
Procedure: Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A ) t o 70C. I n c o r p o r a t e i t e m ' s 11-15 i n water ( l o ) , a d j u s t t h e pH t o 4 . 5 .
Heat phase B) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase B ) t o phase A), c o o l t o 50C, homogen-
Then add phase C) and s t i r c o l d .
Then i n c o r p o r a t e i tems 16 + 17.
i z e and c o o l t o 30C.
A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 032.0/11.94
W/O Night Repair Cream"cold procedure"
I n a r e d i e n t s : 1 A) P i o n i e r KWH-soft 2 B ) Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d 3 G1 y c e r i n 4 Magnesiumsulfat-7H20 5 Revi t a l i n 6 Hyasol 7 Phenoni p
9 C) Fragrance: 0/232511 B l a c k Dragon I 1 8 Euxy l K-200
% w / w 30,00 53,70
5100 0,50 5,00 5,00 0,30 0,20 0,30
Procedure: D i s s o l v e i t e m s 3-8 i n water ( 2 ) . Under v e r y good s t i r r i n g add phase B ) s l o w l y t o phase A ) F i n a l 1 y i n c o r p o r a t e phase C ) .
A p p l i c a t i o n No. B 006.0/04.93
SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : Suggested A p p l i c a t i o n s
Creams 177
1 . M i n e r a l O i 1 2 . Coco B u t t e r 3 . C e t e a r v l A lcoho l & Ceteare th 20 4 . E m u l s i f y i n g wax N.F. 5 . S t e a r i c A c i d 6. G l y c e r y l Monostearate 7. G l y c e r i n E . Propy lene G l y c o l 9 . Acetamide MEA 100% 10.Tr ie thano lamine 11 .Mackpro NSP ( O l e y l / P a l m i t y
Silk Protein Skin Cream Wei a h t ,%
1 0 . 0
4 . 0 6 .0 1 . o 2 .8 2.0 2 .0 0 . 5 0 .2
2 . 0
d o p r o p y l / S i l k h y d r o x y - /Palmi to leam p r o p y l Dimonium C h l o r i d e )
12,Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) 13.Fragrance 14.Deionized Water
q s qs qs
Procedure: 1. M e l t 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9, i n a separa te c o n t a i n e r t o 75
degrees C. 2 . I n t h e m i x i n g t a n k heat t h e water t o 78 degrees C. add 10,ll. 3. S t a r t m i x i n g and add h o t m i x t u r e o f 1 t h r u 9 s l o w l y w i t h
good a g i t a t i o n , mix f o r 20 minu tes t h e n s t a r t c o o l i n g . 4. Whi le m i x i n g add a t 50 degrees C . i t e m s 12 t h e n 13 and
mix u n t i l e v e r y t h i n g i s homogeneous. 5. Check pH and a d j u s t i f needed w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e or a c i d
s o l u t i o n t o 5.4-6.5. SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary
Moisturizing Cream w/TritosolA b l e n d o f Polawax and I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS p r o v i d e t h i s
cream w i t h e x c e l l e n t s t a b i l i t y and mi ldness . The i n c o r p o r a t i o n o f T r i t i s o l a l l o w s t h e s k i n t o r e t a i n m o i s t u r e , and a c t s t o c o n d i t i o n t h e s k i n . I n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Polawax ( E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF) I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS (Behentr imonium M e t h o s u l f a t e
M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) P a r t 8 : Deion ized Water P a r t C: T r i t i s o l ( S o l u b l e Wheat P r o t e i n ) Propy lene Q l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) Methy l
Paraben (and) Propy l Paraben*
(and) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l )
- %
0.00
3.00 5.00
0.00
1 . oo
1 . oo Procedure:
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 70C. Heat P a r t 0 t o 70C. Add P a r t 0 t o P a r t A w i t h good m i x i n g and c o o l t o 45C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d fill tempera ture .
pH: 5 . 0 + - 0 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 11 . O O O + - 1 0 % *Germaben I 1 N . A . T . C . Approved
SOURCE: Croda, Inc. : Formula SC-229
178 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Silky-Smooth Lotion/Cream-A
M a t e r i a l s : P a r t A : Deion i zed Water Rheol a t e 5000 Propy lene G1 y c o l P a r t B: Panal ene S i l i c o n e 7207 Promulgen D Ceraphyl 494 P a r t C : AMP P a r t 0 : Euxyl K-400 F i n s o l v TN E s c a l o l 507
Approximate V i s c o s i t y , cps: 15,000
Silky-Smooth Lotion/Cream-B
M a t e r i a l s : P a r t A : De ion i zed Water Rheol a t e 5000 Propy lene G l y c o l P a r t B: S i 1 i cone 7207 Ceraphyl 494 S t e a r i c A c i d C e t y l A l coho l Dow 200 F l u i d P a r t C : T r i e thano lamine P a r t D:
F i n s o l v TN Euxyl K-400
Approximate, V i s c o s i t y , cps: 45,000
%&yj
79.66 0 .3 0 . 5
8 .0 1 . o 1 . o 2 .0
0.24
0 .3 2 . 0 5 .0
% Y J
83.55 0 .3 2 . 5
2 . 0 1 . o 1 .75 1 .o 5 . 0
0 . 6
0.3 2.0
Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1. Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A by s l o w l y s i f t i n g i n t h e
2. Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t B, t hen heat t o 78C. 3 . Add P a r t 6 t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Mix f o r 10 minu tes ,
4. Cool t o 40C b e f o r e add ing P a r t D . Package a t Room Temperature.
SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons TS-312
polymer t o t h e water , m i x i n g f o r 20 minu tes , t hen add ing t h e p ropy lene g l y c o l . Heat t o 80C.
t h e n add P a r t C.
Creams 179
Silky-Smooth Lotion/Cream-C M a t e r i a l s : %Jy& P a r t A : Deion i zed Water 78.16 Rheol a t e 5000 0 . 3 Propylene G1 y c o l 2 . 5 P a r t B: Panal ene 8 . 0 S i 1 i cone 7207 1 . o Promulgen D 0 . 5 Ceraphyl 494 2 . 0 P a r t C : AMP 0.24 P a r t D : Euxyl K-400 0 .3 F i n s o l v TN 2 .0 E s c a l o l 507 5 . 0
Manufac tur ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A by s l o w l y s i f t i n g i n t h e
Approximate V i s c o s i t y , cps: 24,500
polymer t o t h e water , m i x i n g f o r 20 minutes, t h e n adding t h e propy lene g l y c o l . Heat t o 80C.
t h e n add P a r t C .
2 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t B, t h e n h e a t t o 78C. 3. Add P a r t 6 t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Mix f o r 10 minutes,
4. Cool t o 40C b e f o r e adding P a r t D. Package A t Room Temperature. Formula TS-312
Silky Smooth Cream Base I n a r e d i e n t : %w/w P a r t A : De ion ized Water 83.55 Rheolate 5000 0 . 3 Propylene G1 y c o l 2 .5 P a r t B: S i 1 i c o n e 7207 2.0 Ceraphyl 494 1 . o S t e a r i c A c i d 1.75 C e t y l A1 coho1 1 .o Dow 200 F l u i d 5 . 0 P a r t C: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 . 6 P a r t D: Euxyl K-400 0 .3 F i n s o l v TN 2 . 0 Manufac tur ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A by s l o w l y s i f t i n g i n t h e
polymer t o t h e water , m i x i n g f o r 20 minu tes , t h e n add ing t h e propy lene g l y c o l . Heat t o 80C.
2 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t 8, t h e n heat t o 78C. 3 . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Mix f o r 10 minu tes ,
t h e n add P a r t C . 4. Cool t o 40C b e f o r e adding P a r t D. Package a t Room Temp-
e r a t u r e . Formula TS-331 SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
180 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Cream
A . Squalane Beeswax A m i t e r LG-OD C e t y l Octanoate (Emalex CC-168)* Hydrogenated O i 1 (Emal ex S . T . G - R ) * Behenyl A l c o h o l P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l Monostearate G l y c e r y l Monostearate, S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g
D i m e t h y l p o l y s i l o x a n e (300 c . s . ) B u t y l paraben Amihope L L
G1 y c e r i n H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (1% aq. s o l n . ) Methylparaben Water *Nihon Emulsion Co.
(Emalex GMS-7CAE)*
B . CAE
Procedure: 1 . M ix ( A ) a t 2 . M i x (B) a t 3 . Add ( A ) t o 4 . M i x them w
Note : T h i s sk
8 0 C . 8 0 C . ( 6 ) . t h a homomixer, and t h e n c o o l s l o w l y t o 30C
n cream spreads w e l l .
Wt% 4 . 0 1 . o 2 . 0 3 . 0 4 . 0 1 . 5 1 . o
5 . 0 0 . 4 0 . 1 1 . o 0 . 5 5 . 0
1 0 . 0 0 . 2
58 .3
Skin Cream
A . L i q u i d Pe t ro la tum Cetanol Propy lene G1 y c o l Monostearate G l y c e r y l Monostearate, S e l f Ernulsi f y i ng (HLB 5 )
POE (10) Monostearate POE ( 3 0 ) Monostearate B u t y l Paraben Amihope LL
B . 1 ,3 -Buty lene G l y c o l Acy lg lu tamate HS-11 Methylparaben Water
(Emalex GMS-45RT; Nihon Emulsion Co. )
Wt% 1 7 . 0
3 . 0 1 . o
3 . 0 2 . 0 1 . o 0 . 1 5 . 0 5 . 0 0 . 3 0 . 2
6 2 . 4
Procedure: 1 . M i x (A) a t 80C. 2 . M ix ( € 3 ) a t 8 0 C . 3 . Add (B) t o (A) 4. M i x them w i t h a homomixer. 5 . Cool them s l o w l y t o 30C. Note : T h i s s k i n cream has l o w f r i c t i o n t o u c h a f t e r use.
SOURCE: A j inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Creams 181
Skin Cream with CAE and Amihope
I nqred i e n t s : W B Phase A : Squal ane 4 . 0 Beeswax 1 . o Ami te r LG-OD 2 . 0 C e t y l Octanoate* (Emalex CC-168) 3 .0 Hydrogenated O i l * (Emalex S.T.G.-R) 4 . 0 Behenyl A l coho l 1 . 5 S t e a r i c A c i d 3 . 0 Propy lene G l y c o l Monostearate 1 . o G l y c e r y l Monostearate S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g (Emalex GMS-7 CAE)* 5 .0 M e t h y l p o l y s i l o x a n e (300 c . s . ) 0 . 4 B u t y l paraben 0 .1 Amihope LL 1 . o Phase 8: CAE 0 . 5 G1 y c e r i n 5 . 0 H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (1% Aq. S o l n . ) 10.0 Methylparaben 0 .2 Water 58.3 Manu fac tu r ing Procedure:
Mix Phase A and hea t t o 80C. Mix Phase B and hea t t o 8OC. Add Phase A t o Phase B and homogenize. Cool s l o w l y t o 30C.
* N i hon Emu1 s i on Co. , L t d . , Japan Formula No. LC-7
Cleansing Cream
( 0 ) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) Pet ro la tum Beeswax Lanol i n A1 coho1 Po lyoxye thy lene ( 5 ) G l y c e r y l I s o s t e a r a t e Po lyoxye thy lene ( 5 ) S t e a r y l E the r Po lye thy lene G l y c o l ( 5 0 0 ) D i s t e a r a t e S o r b i t a n Mono1 a u r a t e S o r b i t a n Monool e a t e A1 umi num Monostearate
Propy l ene G1 y c o l Water P r e s e r v a t i v e
(W) A j i dew N-50
Procedure: 1 . Suspend a1 umi num monostearate t o 1 i q u i d p a r a f f i n 2 . Add o t h e r (0) i n g r e d i e n t s t o t h e suspension. 3 . Heat (0) t o 95C t o d i s s o l v e . 4 . Heat ( W ) t o 85C. 5 . Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g . 6. Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .
SOURCE: Aj inornoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
pH: 5 .1
- W t % 21 . o
5 .0 10 .0
1 . 7 4 . 0 2 .5 1 . 6 0 . 2 0 . 4 2 . 0 3 .0 3 .0
4 5 . 6 q . s .
182 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Care Cream
T h i s p r o d u c t i m p a r t s good s k i n f e e l and has a h i g h q u a l i t y appearance, though t h e p r o d u c t i o n i s c o s t e f f e c t i v e . There a r e a l s o b a r r i e r and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s which a r e h i g h l y e f f e c t i v e h y d r a t i o n system f o r a l l s k i n t y p e s . The f o r m u l a a l s o w i l l h e l p reduce t ransep idermal water l o s s .
O i l Phase: C e t y l s t e a r y l A1 coho1 161 8 (P&G) NF White Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) L i g h t M i n e r a l O i l (Wi tco) Propy lene G l y c o l D i o c t a n a t e ( I n o l e x ) S t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Coconut O i l (CocoChem) Propy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) G l y c e r i n e (UniChema) Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e (CMC, Hercu les) Carbopol 940 (BF Goodr ich) Sodi um B o r a t e (Borax) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) Methy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
4.50% 2.50% 3.00% 5.00% 1.50% 0.50% 1.25% 0.20%
74.25% 5.50% 0 I 30% 0.60% 0.40% 0 I 30% 0.20%
Procedure: Add t o t h e water phase under a g i t a t i o n , i n o r d e r ; CMC u n t i l
e v e r y t h i n g i s d i s s o l v e d t h e n methy l paraben w h i l e m i x i n g . Then add carbopo l , mix t i l l homogeneous making s u r e t h e r e a r e no agg lomera t ions . Add t h e remainder o f t h e water phase components, mix and heat t o 75C. Add a l l t h e o i l phase components, h e a t t i l l 75C and mix . Add s l o w l y t h e o i l phase t o t h e water phase under a g i t a t i o n m a i n t a i n i n g a tempera ture o f 75C. When t h e o i l phase i s added, c o o l and pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r .
Adapt ion o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :
ene g l y c o l d i o c t a n a t e by 0.5% and t h e a d d i t i o n o f 2.5% E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) t h e cream w i l l t a k e on an SPF o f 6-8. The p r o d u c t has t h e same appearance, s k i n f e e l and s t a b i l i t y . Fragrances can a l s o be added w i t h o u t a f f e c t i n g i t s t e x t u r e .
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
By r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f m i n e r a l o i l by 2.0%, p r o p y l -
Creams 183
Soft Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol I S M L
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l S i l i c o n e o i l (350 c s ) Ar lamol E B r i j 700 B r i j 72
B Water, de ion i zed Carbopol 934
C Sodium hyd rox ide (10% aqueous)
D P r e s e r v a t i v e
E *Perfume
*q .s . these i n g r e d i e n t s .
%w/w 4 .00 1 . o o 0 .50 1 . o o 2.25 2 . 2 5
8 8 . 1 0 0 . 4 0
0 . 4 0
0.10
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) below 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C and add water t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
Heat (A) t o 70C and (B) t o 72C. Add (B) t o (A) w i t h moderate
I n g r e d i e n t s : A Jo joba O i l
B r i j 72 B r i j 700 S t e a r y l a1 coho1
B Water, de i on i zed
C D o w i c i l 200
Jojoba Oil Cream
1 0 . 0 0 2 .70 1 . 3 0 4 .00
81 - 9 0
0 . 1 0
D *Perfume
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure:
e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) a t about 50C and ( D ) a t about 45C. Add water a t 35C t o compensate f o r loss due t o evapora- t i o n . Package. Formula PC-7158
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat (A) t o 60C and (B) t o 65C. Add (B) t o ( A ) u s i n g prop-
184 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Vanishing Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s : Ar lamol ISML S t e a r y l a l c o h o l S i l i c o n e o i l (350 c s ) Ar lamol E B r i j 700 B r i j 72
Water, d e i o n i zed Sorbo Carbopol 934
Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% aqueous)
Germal l I 1
Herbal Fragrance SL 79-1224, PFW
%w/w 10.00 4 .00 0 .50 3 .00 2.00 3 .00
72.90 4 .00 0 .20
0 .20
0 . 1 0
0 . 1 0
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add (D) below 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C and add water t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
Heat (A) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o (A) w i t h moderate
Vanishing Cream
I n g r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol I S M L
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s . Ar lamol E B r i j 721 B r i j 72
B Water Sorbo, 70% Sorb i t o 1 s o l u t i on Carbopol 934
C NaOH (10% aqueous)
D D o w i c i l 200 p r e s e r v a t i v e *Perfume
*q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
nw/w 1 0 . 0 0
4.00 0.50 3 . 0 0 2.65 2 .35
73.00 4.00 0 .20
0 .20
0 .10
Procedure:
72C and add (B) t o (A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add ( C ) and i n c r e a s e speed o f t h e a g i t a t i o n as needed. Add (D) and r e p l a c e wa te r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n .
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
D ispe rse Carbomer i n wa te r and hea t (B) t o 70C. Heat (A) t o
Creams 185
Vanishing Cream
Phase 1 : Rosswax 63-041 2 Rosswax 573 Amerlate P Emerest 2314 Emerest 2316 G l y c e r y l Monostearate SE
Phase 2 : Water Emery 916 Pure G l y c e r i n e T r ie thano lamine Fragrance Prese rva t i ve
P a r t s bv Weight 8 . 0
12.0 1 .o 1 . o 1 . o 0 .5
99.0 8 . 0 1 .2 q . s . q . s .
Procedure:
t o tempera ture o f 170F w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When t h e tempera ture i s reached add phase 1 t o 2 w i t h c o n t i n u e d a g i t a t i o n c o o l i n g t o 120F t o package. Fragrance may be added t o t h e p roduc t as i t i s c o o l i n g .
I n separa te steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s hea t b o t h phase 1 and 2
Ross Cold Cream Formulation with Jojoba Oil
P a r t A : Ross Beeswax S u b s t i t u t e 628/5 Ross F u l l y Re f ined P a r a f f i n Wax 150/160 M i n e r a l O i l 80/90 G l y c e r o l Monostearate S . E . Ross Jo joba O i l
P a r t B: Borax Water Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e
%! 11 . o
2 .0 45 .5
0 .3 2 . 0
0 . 8 38 .4
q . s . 9 , s .
Procedure: Heat P a r t A t o 170F and a g i t a t e . Heat P a r t B t o 170F and
a g i t a t e . Cool t o 160F and add P a r t A t o P a r t 0 a t 160F w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Cool s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n and pour a t 11OF.
SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
186 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W/O Cream with Eldew
I n g r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: % bv we igh t P a r t A : D i - ( C h o l e s t e r y l , beheny l , o c t y l d o d e c y l ) N-Lauroy l -L -g lu tamic a c i d es ter /E ldew CL-301 2 . 0 C e t e a r y l Octanoate 8 .0 C12-15 A1 k y l Benzoate 5 . 0 Phenoxyethanol 0 .60 Tocophery l Ace ta te 0.05 P a r t 8 : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Ce ty l Dimethi cone
C e t y l Dimethicone 2 .00 P a r t C : De ion i zed Water 68.55 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.80 G l y c e r i n (99.5%) 5 .00 P a r t i a l l y Deace ty la ted C h i t i n (1 .O%)/Marine Dew PC-100 2 .00 P a r t D:
Bu ty lene G l y c o l 0 .80
Procedure:
A . Pre-mel t p a r t D by h e a t i n g t o 50 degrees C . Add t o p a r t C . S low ly add p a r t C and D m i x t u r e t o p a r t s A and B w i t h h i g h shear m i x i ng .
Copo lyo l (and) Hexyl Lau ra te 5.00
Methylparaben 0 . 2 0
Pre-mel t p a r t A a t 50 degrees Cen t ig rade . Add p a r t B t o p a r t
Appearance: White, smooth, sh iny l o t i o n pH: 6 .0 -6 .5 V i s c o s i t y : 20,000-20,000 (RVT #6 @ lOrpm @ 25 degrees C )
Cleansing Cream
L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C) Squal ane I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e C e t y l A l coho l N i k k o l WCB S o r b i t a n Monostearate Po lyoxye thy lene (15 ) C e t y l E the r A j i dew T-50 Water P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2. Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
pH: 5 . 7
- W t % 35.0 10.0 2 .0 3 . 0 1 . o
10 .0 2 . 4 2 .6 3 . 0
31 . O 0 . s .
Creams 187
90% Water Cream
Water Carbomer 934 Pro tox T-25 Rosswax 63-041 2 Rosswax 1824 GMS SE Coconut O i l #76 Jo joba O i l T r i e thano lamine Germaben I I E Fragrance GK-21
P a r t s by Wei a h t 450. 0Gr .
2.OGr. 1 . Q G r . 4.OGr.
16.OGr. 4.OGr.
16.OGr. 4.OGr. 4.OGr. 6.OGr. q.s.
Procedure: D isperse t h e Carbomer 934 i n t h e wa te r , on a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l
v e s s e l . I n a separa te vesse l m e l t t h e O i l Phase. When t h e O i l Phase i s me l ted add i t t o t h e Water Phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Next add t h e f rag rance , t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and l a s t add t h e T r i e t h a n o l - amine w i t h i nc reased a g i t a t i o n .
Soft & Silky Vanishing Cream
P a r t ( A ) : Rosswax 63-0412 Rosswax 573 Ross L o t i o n O i l 2745 GMS-SE
P a r t ( B ) : Water Propy lene G1 y c o l T r i e thano l ami ne Germaben I 1
P a r t ( C ) : Fragrance
P a r t s bv Weight 8 . 0 10.0
8.0 0 .5
97.0 8 . 0 2 . 0 1 .2
q . s .
Procedure:
k e t t l e s under a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y heated add P a r t ( A ) t o P a r t (B ) under a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 130F, Fragrance and package.
SOURCE: Frank 8 . R o s s C o . , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat P a r t ( A ) and P a r t ( B ) t o 170F i n separa te steam j a c k e t e d
Hair Care Products 189
"Arctic Mist" Spray Gel
T h i s water w h i t e , c l e a r , sp rayab le g e l uses D ia fo rmer 2-301 t o p r o v i d e e x c e l l e n t h o l d , c l e a r f i l m s , and no f l a k i n g . I t e x h i b i t s good v i s c o s i t y c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . Sandoxylate SX-424 i s used as a f r a g r a n c e s o l u b i l i z e r .
I n g r e d i e n t s ~ : QW De ion ized Water 91 .80 Carbopol 980 0 .30 NaOH 10% 0 .40 D i a former 2-301 6.95 G l y c e r i n 0.10 D i sodi urn EDTA 0 . 0 5 Sandoxylate SX-424 0 .25 Fragrance 0 . 0 5 P r e s e r v a t i v e 0 . 1 0 Procedure:
homogeneous. Add NaOH 10% t o n e u t r a l i z e t h e Carbopol 980. Mix w e l l . Add D ia fo rmer 2-301 and G l y c e r i n one a t a t i m e w i t h m i x i ng. Add D i sod i um EDTA. P reso l u b i 1 i ze f r a g r a n c e i n Sandoxy- l a t e SX-424 and add t o b a t c h . M i x w e l l . A d j u s t pH as needed w i t h NaOH 10%. P r o p e r t i e s :
pH: 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 12,000-14,000 cps. Appearance: Water w h i t e , c l e a r g e l
Add Carbopol 980 t o water w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n and mix u n t i l
Formul a t i on CHF-20
Super Hard Hold Hair Spray
D i a h o l d A-503 i s used t o c r e a t e t h i s super h a r d h o l d h a i r spray t h a t meets t h e 80% VOC requ i remen ts . I t s a b i l i t y t o fo rm hard, c r y s t a l c l e a r f i l m s r e s u l t i n a h a i r spray t h a t has good g l o s s and e x c e l l e n t h o l d on t h e h a i r . D i a h o l d A-503 i s a l s o e a s i l y removed f rom t h e h a i r by shampooing.
I n a r e d i e n t s : yawJJ D i a h o l d A-503 1 7 . 5 0 Dei o n i zed Water 12.70 Dow Corn ing 190 0 . 1 0 SD 40 A lcoho l 69.50 Lauramide DEA 0 .10 Fragrance OS Procedure:
Add D i a h o l d A-503 t o a l c o h o l w i t h m i x i n g . Add wa te r and mix w e l l . Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g . P r o p e r t i es :
Appearance: Pa l e Ye1 1 ow L i q u i d pH: 8.2-8.6
F o r m u l a t i o n CHF-18
SOURCE: Sandoz Chemicals Corp. : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
190 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Balsam Conditioner
Weiqht .% Mackine 301 ( S t e a r a m i d o o r o w l Dimethy lamine) 1 . 6 . _ Mackol 16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) Phosphor ic A c i d (85%) Sodium C h l o r i d e Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) Balsam o f Peru Water, Dye qs t o
1.8 0 . 9 0 .3
qs qs
100.0
Procedure: 1 . Add t h e f i r s t f o u r components t o water and heat t o 70 degrees
2. 81 end u n t i 1 homogeneous. 3 . Cool t o 45 degrees C . and add Mackstat DM and Balsam o f Peru. 4 . Cool t o room tempera ture and f i l l .
C .
Clear Conditioner with Wheat Germ Cationic
Weinht,% Mackalene 716 (Wheat Germamidopropyl Dimethy lamine
L a c t a t e ) 1 . o N a t r o s o l 250 HHR 1 . o Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, Fragrance, Dye, qs t o 100.0
Procedure: 1 I Complete ly d i s p e r s e N a t r o s o l i n w a t e r . 2 . Heat t o 45 degrees C . and add Mackalene 716. 3. A d j u s t pH t o 5 .0 w i t h l a c t i c a c i d . 4 . When p r o d u c t i s c l e a r , add remain ing components. 5 . Cool and f i l l .
Clear Leave-On Conditioner
Weiqht,% Mackalene 426 ( I s o s t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l Morpho l ine L a c t a t e ) 6 .0 N a t r o s o l 250 HHR 1 . o Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Deion ized Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0
Procedure: 1. Complete ly d ispense N a t r o s o l i n w a t e r . 2 . Add Mackalene 426 and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 3. Heat t o 40 degrees C . and add remain ing components.
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary
Hair Care Products 191
Birch Hair Lotion
Ethano l 96% B i r c h (wa te r ) Speci a1 S o f t i g e n 767 M a r l a z i n KC 3 0 / 5 0 A1 1 a n t o i n V i tam in F Pant henol Water
5 0 . 0 5 . 0 5 . 0 0 . 5 0 . 2 0 . 2 0 . 2
t o 1 0 0 . 0
P r e p a r a t i o n :
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 .5 -6 .5 . The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
Invigorating Hair Lotion
Isopropano l S o f t i g e n 767 Marlowet R 40/K Menthol Camphor S t i n g i n g N e t t l e Spec ia l Perfume Water
W S 4 5 . 0 3.0 1 . o 0 . 2 0 .05 1 . o qs
t o 100 .0
P r e p a r a t i o n :
u n t i l homogeneous. The p H i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 .5 -6 .5 . The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
Hair Conditioner
A . M a r l a z i n KC 30/50 C e t y l a l c o h o l Marlamid M 1218 C e l l o s i z e QP 100 MH Water
6 . Perfume Co lour P rese rva t i ve
Preparat i on : The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e added t o g e t h e r i n sequence and
s t i r r e d w h i l e warm u n t i l homogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s o f B. a r e added t o A . a t approx . 3 0 C . The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 .
SOURCE: Huls America I n c . : Formulat ions f o r Cosmetics: Formulas
192 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Brushing Gel
A .
B .
C .
Amihope LL POE (20) S o r b i t a n POE (20 ) S o r b i t a n POE (25) G l y c e r y l P ropy l ene G1 y c o l Grape Seed O i l
Mono1 a u r a t e Monostearate
Wt% 0 . 5 0 . 5 0 . 5
Monopyroglutamate Mono isos teara te 1 . o 2 . 0 0 . 5
Carboxyv iny l Polymer (Carbopol 940) ( 1 . O w t % s o l u t i o n ) 50 .0 Dei o n i zed Water ba lance P r e s e r v a t i v e s 0 .2
10% w t . NaOH S o l u t i o n 2 .0
Procedure: 1 . Weigh each i n g r e d i e n t (A) i n g l a s s vesse l and m ix . 2 . Add ( 8 ) t o t h e fo rmer m i x t u r e and hea t t o 70-8OC w i t h
3 . A f t e r d i s s o l u t i o n , coo l down t o room tempera ture . Then add s t i r r i ng .
(C) t o t h e mixed s o l u t i o n and i t t u r n s t o g e l s t a t e .
Note:
combing and leads t o smooth combing. T h i s b r u s h i n g g e l reduces an e l e c t o s t a t i c charge produced by
Hair Brushing Lotion
Amihope LL POE (20) S o r b i t a n Mono laura te (Po lyso rba te 2 0 ) Water E thano l
Procedure: Mix a l l components a t room tempera ture .
Wt% 1 . o 1 . o
50.0 48.0
Note:
smoothness f o r t h e h a i r .
c a t i o n i c s u r f a c t a n t .
Usage:
SOURCE: Aj inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
T h i s h a i r b r u s h i n g l o t i o n has good a n t i s t a t i c e f f e c t and
Amihope L i a c t s as h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g agent i n s t e a d o f t h e
Spray t h e h a i r b e f o r e b r u s h i n g .
Hair Care Products 193
Brushing Lotion
Wt% A . AmihoDe LL 0 . 5
PO€ ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n Monolaurate 1 .5 POE (25) G l y c e r y l Monopyroglutamate Mono isos teara te 1 . o Propy l ene G1 y c o l 2 . 0
€3. S t e a r y l A lcoho l 0 .5 Carboxyv iny l Polymer (Carbopol 941 ) 1 5 . 0
De ion ized Water ba lance P r e s e r v a t i ves 0 . 2
(0 .5wt% s o l u t i o n ; n e u t r a l i z e d by NaOH)
C . Prodew 100 Ethanol
0 .2 5 .0
Procedure: 1 . Weigh each i n g r e d i e n t (A) i n g l a s s vesse l and m i x . 2 . Add (B) t o t h e fo rmer m i x t u r e and heat t o 70-8OC w i t h
3 . A f t e r d i s s o l u t i o n , c o o l down t o 50C. Then add ( C ) t o t h e
4 . With s t i r r i n g , c o o l down t o room tempera ture .
Note :
by combing and l e a d s t o a smooth combing.
s t i r r i ng.
m i xed s o l u t i on.
T h i s b r u s h i n g l o t i o n reduces an e l e c t r o s t a t i c charge produced
Hair Rinse
A . Cetanol A m i t e r LGOD-2
Wt% 3 . 0 5 .0
G l y c e r y l Monostearate, S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g (HLB 1 1 ) 2 . 0 Amihope LL 3 .0
0. 1 , 3 - B u t y l e n e g l y c o l Stearyltrimethylammonium Chor ide Methy lparaben Water
Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e (A) a t 8OC. 2 . D i s s o l v e (B) a t 8OC. 3 . Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) . 4 . M ix them w i t h a homomixer, and c o o l t o 30C.
Note:
SOURCE: Aj inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions
T h i s creamy h a i r r i n s e has l i g h t f i n i s h i n g t o u c h .
5 .0 3 .0 0 . 2
t h e r e s t
194 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Clear Conditioner
C o n d i t i o n i n g p l u s f i l m c l a r i t y maximizes t h e n a t u r a l beauty o f t h e h a i r .
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . Hyd roxye thy l C e l l u l o s e ( N a t r o s o l
250 HHR) 2 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 3 . Propy lene G l y c o l 4 . EDTA 5 . Ammonyx KP (O lea lkon ium C h l o r i d e ) 6 , Po lyqu ta 400 (Polyquatern ium-10) 7 . Laneto 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 8 . R i tapan DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 9 . R i t a b a t e 20 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 20) 10.Fragrance #189-724 11.Kathon CG
w 0.80
84.32 5.00 0 . 1 0 6.00 1 . o o 0 . 7 5 1 . o o 0 . 8 0 0 . 2 0 0 . 0 3
F u n c t i o n
V i s c o s i t y
Humectant C1 a r i t y C o n d i t i o n i n g Combing C o n d i t i o n i n g Body C l a r i t y Odor P r e s e r v a t i v e
- - - - - - - - -
Compounding Procedure: I n 60% o f t h e water d i s s o l v e i t e m 1 . Add i t e m 3, mix u n t i l
c l e a r . Add i t e m 4 and m i x . I n a separa te beaker d i s p e r s e i t e m 6 i n rema in ing w a t e r . M ix u n t i l c l e a r . Add i t e m s 5,7 and 8 i n o r d e r . Combine and add i t e m 9 . Add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e .
R e f . No. 118-125
Light Hair Conditioner
A c o n d i t i o n e r des igned f o r normal / o i 1 y h a i r t o maxi m i ze c o m b a b i l i t y and m a n a g e a b i l i t y . Helps keep h a i r c l e a n e r l o n g e r
I n g r e d i e n t s : w F u n c t i o n 1 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 3 .50 E m u l s i f i e r , T h i c k e n e r 2 . Rita-CTAC (Cetr imonium C h l o r i d e ) 2 . 0 0 C o n d i t i o n e r 3 . Dow Corn ing 344 F l u i d 2 . 0 0 S i l k y F e e l ,
4 . R i t a p r o 200 ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 2.00 E m u l s i f i e r 5 . C i t r i c A c i d @ 100% 0 .05 pH A d j u s t e r 6 . G lydan t 0 .20 P r e s e r v a t i v e 7. D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water go 25 _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Compounding Procedure:
CTAC and R i t a p r o 200 and hea t t o 70C. S l o w l y add pre-mix t o water phase and a g i t a t e . Wh i le m i x i n g c o o l t o 45-5OC. Add G lydan t and Dow Corn ing .
L u b r i c a t i o n
Heat wa te r and C i t r i c A c i d t o 65C. Pre-mix R i t a CA, R i t a -
Re f . No. 116-166
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp. : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Hair Care Products 195
Clear Gel Hairdressing
I nq r e d i en t s : A M ine ra l o i l , Naphthenic, Drako l 10B
B r i j 97 A r l a t o n e G Propylene g l y c o l Sorbo
B Water, d e i on i zed
C *Perfume #44575, F r i t z s c h e B r o t h e r s
13.70 1 5 . 5 0 1 5 . 5 0 8 . 6 0 6 .90
39.80
f q . s . t hese i ngred i e n t s .
Procedure:
Cool t o 70C and add (C) . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m and pour w h i l e s t i l l f l u i d .
Heat (A) and ( 8 ) t o 9OC. Add (B) t o (A) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g .
Water/Oil Hair Dressing
I n q r e d i e n t s : A Pet ro la tum
Mine ra l o i l Lanol i n A r l a c e l 83 Beeswax Z inc s t e a r a t e
B Borax Water, d e i o n i z e d
C *Fragrance and P r e s e r v a t i v e
*q. s , these i n g r e d i e n t s .
%&yl 7.50
37.50 3 .00 3 .00 2 . 0 0 1 .oo
0 . 5 0 45.50
Procedure:
moderate b u t thorough a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 45C. S t i r u n t i l Heat (A) t o 75C. Heat ( B ) t o 77C. Add ( 8 ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h
room tempera ture and package.
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
196 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Clear 'N' Natural Conditioner
T h i s c l e a r c o n d i t i o n e r a c q u i r e s i t s v i s c o s i t y f rom t h e s u p e r i o r t h i c k e n i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f C r o t h i x * .
P a r t A : Oeioni zed water 8 7 . 5 Crovo l PK-70 (PEG-45 Palm Kernel G l y c e r i d e s ) 3 . 0 P a r t E : P r o c e t y l AWS (PPG-5 Cete th 20) 3 . 0 C r o t h i x * (PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e ) 2 .0 P a r t C : I n c r o q u a t 0-50 (Olealkonium C h l o r i d e ) 2 . 0 I n c r o q u a t EA-85 (Babassuamidopropalkonium C h l o r i d e ) 0 . 5 P a r t D : T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% qs t o pH 6 P a r t E: Propy lene G l y c o l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and) Methy l
Paraben (and) Propy l Paraben** 1 . o H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA (Wheat Amino Ac ids) 1 . o Procedure:
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A and heat t o 80-85C. When P a r t A i s homogeneous, add P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l b a t c h t o 30-35C. A d j u s t pH t o 6 .0+-0 .5 u s i n g P a r t 0. Add P a r t E w i t h m i x i n g .
covered under U . S . Pa ten t #5,192,462.
I n a r e d i e n t s : 3
**Germaben I 1 N . A . T . C . Approved
Formula HP-165
*The use o f C r o t h i x i n cosmet ic and o t h e r f o r m u l a t i o n s i s
Cream of Wheat Conditioner
T h i s c o n d i t i o n e r g i v e s e x c e l l e n t c o n d i t i o n i n g / m o i s t u r i z i n g c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . I n e r e d i e n t s : 96 P a r t A : Pol awax (Emu1 s i f y i ng Wax NF) 5.00 I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS (Behentr imonium M e t h o s u l f a t e
(and) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 3 .00 Super R e f i n e d Wheat Germ O i l (Wheat Germ O i l ) 2 .50 P a r t E: De ion ized Water 85.50 P a r t C : Cropept ide W (Hydro lyzed Wheat P r o t e i n (and) Wheat
01 i g o s a c c h a r i d e s ) 3 .00 Germaben I 1 1 .oo Procedure:
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 75C. Heat P a r t B t o 75C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 45C. Add i n g r e d i e n t s f rom P a r t C s e q u e n t i a l l y w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l tempera ture .
p H : 4.5+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y : 50,OOOcps+-lO% N.A.T.C. Approved Formul a HP-164
SOURCE: Croda Inc.: Suggested Formula t ions
Hair Care Products 197
Conditioner and Setting Lotion
Wei a h t , % Mackalene 316 (Stearamidopropyl Dimethy lamine L a c t a t e ) 4 . 0 Gafquat 755 8.0 Mackol 16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0 . 5 Uacks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in) qs Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0
Procedure: 1 . Complete ly d i s p e r s e Gafquat 755 i n w a t e r . 2 . Add Mackalene 316 and Mackol 16 and h e a t t o 70 degrees C. 3. 61 end u n t i 1 c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous. 4 . Cool t o 45 degrees C . and add remain ing components. 5. Coo1 and f i l l I
Curl Conditioner and Oil Sheen
Wei Qht ,% G l y c e r i n e 4 7 . 0 Propylene G l y c o l 3 . 0 Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n )
( N a t u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 4 . 0 Mackanate DC-30 (Disodium Dimeth icone Copolyo l
Su l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 3 .0 Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Deion ized Water qs t o 100 .0
Procedure: Add comDonents i n o r d e r and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .
Foaming Conditioner
Wei a h t , %
Mackalene 116 (Cocamidopropyl Dimethy lamine L a c t a t e ) 1 5 . 0 Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n )
( N a t u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 4 . 0 N a t r o s o l 250 HHR 0.7
Mackam 35 (Cocami dopropy l B e t a i ne ( V i a Gl y c e r i de) 1 0 . 0
Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in) qs Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0
Procedure: 1 . Thoroughly d i s p e r s e t h e N a t r o s o l i n water and h e a t t o 45
2 . Add Mackam 35, Mackalene 116 and Mackpro NLP. 3 . Blend u n t i l c l e a r . 4 . Add Mackstat DM, f r a g r a n c e and dye. 5 . Cool and f i 11.
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary
degrees C .
198 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioner with Croquat HHT h i s creamy w h i t e c o n d i t i o n e r o f f e r s t h e s u b s t a n t i v i t y
b e n e f i t s of q u a t e r n i z i n g w i t h t h e permanant c o n d i t i o n i n g p o t e n t i a1 o f a c y s t e i ne-conta i n i ng p r o t e i n .
P a r t A : I n c r o q u a t S-85 (S teara lkon ium C h l o r i d e ) 1 .50 Pol awax (Emuls i f y i ng Wax NF) 4.50 Crodacol CS-50 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 5 . 6 0 Crodamol W ( S t e a r y l Heptanoate) 6.50 I n c r o c a s 40 (PEG-40 Castor O i l ) 2 .75 P a r t 8 : Dei o n i zed Water 75.15 P a r t C : Croquat HH (Cocodimonum Hydroxypropyl Hydro lyzed H a i r
K e r a t i n ) 3 .00 P a r t D: Propy lene G l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) Methy l
Paraben (and) Propy l Paraben* 1 . o o
Heat P a r t B t o 75-80C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g , w h i l e a v o i d i n g a e r a t i o n , and c o o l t o 55C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add P a r t D w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o des i r e d f i 11 tempera ture .
I n n r e d i a n t s : 3
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 75-80C.
pH: 4 .0+-0 .5 V i s c o s i t y : 35,000+-10% ( @ 25C) * Germaben I 1 N . A . T . C . Approved Formula HP-172
High Performance Creme Rinse ConditionerT h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s e x c e l l e n t c o n d i t i o n i n g t o h a i r .
I n a r e d i e n t s : % P a r t A : Crodafos CES ( C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l (and) C e t e a r y l phosphate) 6.00 I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS (Behentr imonium M e t h o s u l f a t e (and) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1 - 0 0
Propy l paraben 0 . 1 0 Volpo S-2 ( S t e a r e t h - 2 ) 0 .50 Crodacol C-70 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 .00 Crodamol PTIS ( P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a i s o s t e a r a t e ) 1 .oo P a r t B: De ion i zed Water 87.98 Incromectan t LAMEA (Acetamide MEA (and) Lactamide MEA) 1.00 Methy l paraben 0.10 P a r t C: TEA 99% 0.32
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 65-70C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Cont inue m i x i n g and add P a r t C. Cool t o d e s i r e d f i l l tempera ture .
pH: 4.50+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y : 56,000+-10% N . A . T . C . Approved Formula HP-178-1
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested Formulat ions
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 65-70.
Hair Care Products 199
Cream Curl Activator
Formula: Phase A : De ion ized Water Hydroxypropy l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e T r i e thano l ami ne Panthenol Hydro1 yzed S i 1 k P r o t e i n ( I keda) Quatern i urn-1 5
Phase 6: Macol CPS S o l u l a n 16 Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i l Masi 1 656 F l u i d Masi 1 SF-V F l u i d M a s i l 280
Phase C : C i t r i c A c i d 50% Fragrance
%Wt.
80.43 0 .20 0.02 1 .oo 1 . o o 0 .30
6 .00 1 . o o 2 .00 3 .00 3.00 2.00
0 . 0 5 q . s .
Procedure: D ispe rse Hydroxypropy l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t h e water ; add TEA
t o i n i t i a t e h y d r a t i o n . A f t e r 20 mins . add rema in ing A i n g r e d i - en ts , hea t t o 55C and s t i r . Separa te l y b l e n d 6 and hea t t o 55C. Add 6 t o A, m a i n t a i n a g i t a t i o n w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C. A d j u s t pH and add f r a g r a n c e .
Hair Relaxer Emulsion
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l PEG-75 1 ano l i n Whi te P ro tope t Emu1 s i f y i ng wax
S Pet ro la tum
Propy lene g l yco Hydro lyzed animal p r o t e i n S t e a r i c a c i d Sodi um h y d r o x i de, 50% Fragrance Water
Percent 14.00
4.00 18.00 5 .50 5.00 5.00 1 .50 6.00 0 . 3 0
q.s.100.00
SOURCE: Wi tco Corp . : Petroleum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
200
A .
B .
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cream Hair Conditioner
01 e y l A lcoho l Mackol 16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) Mackester SP ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e M o d i f i e d ) BHA Propy l Paraben
Weight ,% 10.0
2 . 5 3.0 0.1 0.1
Mackalene 31 6 (Stearami dopropy l Dimethy l ami ne L a c t a t e ) 2 5 . 0 Macksta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) q s Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0
Procedure: 1 . Heat p a r t A t o 70 degrees C . 2 . Add Mackalene 316 t o water and heat t o 70 degrees C . 3 . Add A t o B and w i t h cont inuous b l e n d i n g c o o l t o 45 degrees C . 4 . Add remain ing components and c o o l .
Hair Conditioner
Wei q h t ,%
c o n s i s t e n c y ) 5 . 0 Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) q s Water, Fragrance, Dye qs t o 1 0 0 . 0
Procedure: 1 . Add Mackadet CBC t o water and heat t o 70 degrees C . 2 . With cont inuous m i x i n g c o o l t o 50 degrees C . 3. Add remain ing components and c o o l .
Mackadet CBC ( C o n d i t i o n e r c o n c e n t r a t e f o r v i s c o u s cream
Pearl Conditioner
Wei g h t ,%
be c o l d b l ended) 1 0 . 0 Macadet LCB ( L i q u i d C o n d i t i o n e r Concent ra te t h a t can
T r i e thano l Ami ne Sodium C h l o r i d e Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) Water, Dye, Fragrance q . s . t o
1 . o 0.5 q s
100.0
Procedure: 1 . Warm water t o 40 degrees C . 2 . Add sodium c h l o r i d e and TEA. 3. Add Mackadet LCB and b l e n d s l o w l y . 4 . When c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d add dye, p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e . 5 . Cool and f i 11.
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group Ltd.: Personal Care Formulary
Hair Care Products 201
Cream Hair Rinse
I n q r e d i e n t s : C e t y l a l c o h o l B r i j 721s F o r e s t a l 1 Water, d e i o n i z e d
o/,w/w 1 .50 1 . o o 1 . 4 0
96.10
Procedure:
s t i r r i n g and add makeup w a t e r . Formula PC-8214
Heat t o 70 deg. C w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool w i t h
Hydrogen Peroxide Emulsion
I nq r ed i e n t s : A C e t y l a l c o h o l
B r i j 721, Steareth-21 S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s .
w 6 . 0 0 5 .00 0 I 50
B Water, d e i o n i zed 66.30
C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 27% d i l u t i o n grade 22 * 20
Procedure:
moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) below 35C. Replace water l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 .5 -4 .0 w i t h d i l u t e phosphor i c a c i d (10% C . P . ) . Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b l e evo l u t i on o f oxygen. Formula HC-13
Heat (A) t o 60C and ( B ) t o 65C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h
Permanent Wave Lotion
I n a r e d i e n t s : A F o r e s t a l l
B r i j 35 SP Water, d e i o n i zed
%w/w 1 . 4 0 2 . 0 0
80.10
B Ethanol ami ne 9 .50
C T h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d 7 . 0 0
Procedure:
Add (C) . A d j u s t pH t o 9.0-9.5 w i t h a d d i t i o n a l e thanolamine o r t h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d . Formula HC-15
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
M i x (A) w i t h g e n t l e heat i f necessary u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add (B).
202 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Deep Conditioning Treatment
Deep c o n d i t i o n i n g f o r m u l a based on a c o n t r o l l e d d e p o s i t i o n o f C h o l e s t e r o l I
I n a r e d i e n t s 1. D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 2 . Propy lene G l y c o l 3 . R i t a c h o l ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 4 . Rita-STAC (Stear t r imon ium C h l o r i d e ) 5 . C h o l e s t e r o l NF 6 . Supersat AWS-4 (PEG-20 Hydrogenated
L a n o l i n ) 7 . R i t a c h o l 1000 ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 8 . P e t r o l a t u m 9. Fragrance 10. Kathon CG
F u n c t i o n 75.17 ---------
3.00 M o i s t u r e 2.00 C o n t r o l 1 .50 Condi t i oner 1 .00 Repa i r
2 . 0 0 Repai r
5.00 Repai r 0 .30 Odor 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e
IO, 00 E m u l s i f i e r
Compounding Procedure:
combine i t e m s 3-8 and heat t o 70C. M i x and add t o water phase w i t h good m i x i n g . Cool t o 50C and add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e .
Combine i tems 1 and 2 and heat t o 75-8OC. I n a separa te beaker
Ref . No. 118-116
Intensive Conditioner with Body
A d e t a n g l i n g c o n d i t i o n e r w i t h g r e a t wet /d ry combing. H a i r has i n c r e a s e d body/volume.
I n a r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n 1 . Rita-BTAC (Behentr imonium C h l o r i d e ) 4.00 C o n d i t i o n e r , A n t i -
S t a t i c 2 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 3.00 Emulsi f i e r , Thickener 3 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1 .OO E m u l s i f i e r , Th ickener
5 . V o l a t i l e S i l i c o n e F l u i d 344 o r 345 5.00 L u b r i c a n t , E m o l l i e n t 6. S i l i c o n e F l u i d 200 (100 c S t ) 5.00 L u b r i c a n t , Emoll i e n t 7. Wheat Germ O i 1 1 .00 Nourishment 8 . G lydant 0 .20 P r e s e r v a t i v e
Compounding Procedure: Heat i t e m s 1-3 t o 70C. Heat water t o 80-85C. Add i t e m s 1-3
t o water and mix u n t i l i t reaches 50C. Then add i tems 5-7 and m i x . A t 45C add i t e m s 8. Mix u n t i l 35-4OC.
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp. : Suggested Formula t ions
4. D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 80.80 ----.---------
Ref. No. 116-170
Hair Care Products 203
Ethnic Hair Care Clear Hair Rinse
I n a r e d i e n t s : Water Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e P r e s e r v a t i ve Propylene G1 y c o l G1 ycer i n Q u a t e r n i urn-80 (Abi 1 Quat 3272) Dimeth icone Copolyo l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e (Tagat L) Fragrance
e 91.30
1.20
3 .00 2 .oo 0 .50 1 .oo 1 .oo
Q . S .
Q.S.
Procedure: 1 . Add t h e water and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Heat t o 50C. Mix . D isperse
2. Add t h e remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s . Cool t o 35C. 3 . Pre b l e n d t h e Tagat L and f r a g r a n c e . Add t o b a t c h . Mix u n t i l
t h e HMC. M i x u n t i l c l e a r .
c l e a r u s i n g s low speed.
Ethnic Hair Care Hair Dressings
I n q r e d i e n t s : Water Hydroxypropyl Methy l c e l l u l ose P r e s e r v a t i v e P r o w l e n e G l y c o l G1 ycer i n Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) Dimeth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l Laura te (Tagat L ) Fragrance
%w/w 91 .30
1.20
3 .00 2 .00 0 .50 1 .oo 1 . o o
Q.S.
Q.S.
Procedure: 1 . Add t h e water and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Heat t o 50C. Mix . D isperse
2 . Add t h e remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s . Cool t o 35C. 3 . Pre b l e n d t h e Tagat L and f r a g r a n c e . Add t o b a t c h . M i x u n t i l
SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Chemical Corp. : Suggested Formul a t i ons
t h e HMC. M i x u n t i l c l e a r .
c l e a r u s i n g s low speed.
204 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gels
Hair Repair
I n g r e d i e n t s : 9bw/w T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 0 . 1 0 Water 75.80 G l y c e r i n 5 . 0 0 Propy lene G1 y c o l 15.00 Carbomer 940 0 .75 D imeth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l B 88183) 1 .oo D imeth icone P r o p y l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l B 9950) 0 .50 Dimethicone/Sodium PG Propy l D imeth icone T h i o s u l f a t e
Copolymer ( A b i l S 2 0 1 ) 1 . o o PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e (Tagat L) 0 .50 Fragrance Q . S . P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S . T r i e thano lamine (99%) 0 .35 Procedure: 1 . M i x t h e w a t e r , G l y c e r i n , Propy lene G l y c o l , and Tet rasod ium
2 . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l between
3 . N e u t r a l i z e t h e Carbomer w i t h Sodium Hydrox ide s o l u t i o n or
EDTA t o g e t h e r . D i s p e r s e t h e Carbomer 940.
a d d i t i o n s . Note: Preb lend t h e Tagat L and f r a g r a n c e .
t h e T r ie thano lamine .
Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-on Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens
Conditioning Sheen
I n g r e d i e n t s : Water 72.00 Tet rasod ium EDTA 0 . 1 0 Propy lene G1 y c o l 1 0 . 0 0 G1 y c e r i n 15.00 Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) 0.40 D imeth icone P r o p y l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l B 9950) 0 . 2 5 D imeth icone Copo lyo l (Abi 1 B 88183) 0 . 7 5 PEG-75 L a n o l i n 0 . 7 5 PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e (Tagat L ) 0 .50 PEG-I8 G l y c e r y l Cocoate/Oleate ( A n t i l 171) 0 .25 Fragrance Q . S . P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S .
Procedure: 1 . Heat water t o 50C. D i s s o l v e Tet rasod ium EDTA. 2 . Add t h e Tagat L, A n t i l 171, and PEG-75 L a n o l i n . M i x u n t i l
c l e a r . 3 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between a d d i -
t i o n s . 4 . A d j u s t p H .
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n ) TO pH 5-6
Hair Care Products 205
Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gel
For Shine
I n a r e d i e n t s : T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Water G1 ycer i n Propylene G l y c o l Carbomer 940 Dimeth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l B 8851) Dimeth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e (Tagat L ) Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e s Sodium Hydrox ide (25% S o l u t i o n )
m 0.10
76.65 15.00
5 . 0 0 0 . 7 5 1 .oo 1 . o o 0.50
Q . S . Q . S .
t o pH 6
Procedure: 1 . M ix t h e water , G l y c e r i n , Propy lene G l y c o l , and Tetrasodium
2 . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l between
3 . N e u t r a l i z e t h e Carbomer w i t h Sodium Hydrox ide s o l u t i o n o r
EDTA t o g e t h e r . D isperse t h e Carbomer 940.
a d d i t i o n s . Note: Preblend t h e Tagat L and f r a g r a n c e .
t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e .
Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gel
Moisturizing
I nared i e n t s : T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Water G l y c e r i n Propylene G l y c o l Carbomer 940 Dimeth icone Copolyo l ( A b i l B 88183) Dimeth icone Propy l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l B 9950) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e (Tagat L) Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e s T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)
%w/w 0.10
76.30 10.00 10.00
0.75 1 .oo 1 . oo 0 .50
Q . S . Q . S .
0.35
Procedure: 1 . M ix t h e water , G l y c e r i n , Propy lene G l y c o l , and Tetrasodium
EDTA t o a e t h e r . DisDerse t h e Carbomer 940. 2 . Add t h e - r e s t of t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g we
a d d i t i o n s . Note: Preblend t h e Tagat L and f ragrance 3 . N e u t r a l i z e t h e Carbomer w i t h Sodium Hydrox ide s o l u t
t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e .
SOURCE: Goldschmi dt Chemical Corp I : Suggested Formul a t
1 between
on o r
ons
206 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Ethnic Hair Care Leave-In Moisturizing/Sheen
I n a r e d i e n t s : Phase A: Te t rasod ium EDTA Water O le th -20 D imeth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l B 88183) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) G1 yce r i n
Phase B: PEG-30 G l y c e r y l Lau ra te (Tagat L) Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure: 1 . Add t h e wa te r , O le th -20 , h e a t t o 40C. Mix u n t i l c l e a r . 2 . Add t h e rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A m i x i n g each u n t i
3 . Add t h e f r a g r a n c e t o t h e Tagat L. M ix w e l l - add t o Phase 4 . Cool w i t h m i x i n g - add p r e s e r v a t i v e s .
c l e a r .
0 .1 77.9 2 .0 3 . 0 0 .5
1 5 . 0
1 . 5 Q . S . Q . S .
A .
Ethnic Hair Care Hair Cuticle Coat Conditioner
I n a r e d i e n t s : Cyclomethicone (and) D imeth icono l (and) Dimethicone
( A b i l OSW 12) Cyclomethicone Isohexadecane o r M i n e r a l Oil I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (Tegoso f t M) O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t OS) Phenyl T r ime th i cone ( A b i l AV 20) Fragrance
Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g .
%w/w
5 5 . 0 25.0 10.0
3 . 0 2 .0 5 . 0 Q . S .
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Hair Care Products 207
Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-on Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens
Moisturizing Sheen
I n g r e d i e n t s : Water T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Propylene G1 y c o l G1 y c e r i n Dimeth icone Propy l PG B e t a i n e (AB11 B 9950) Dimeth icone Copolyo l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-75 Lanol i n PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e (Tagat L ) PEG-18 G l y c e r y l Cocoate/Oleate ( A n t i l 171) Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e s C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n )
Procedure: 1 . Heat water t o 50C. D i s s o l v e Tetrasodium EDTA
%Z 72.40
0.10 10.00 15.00
0.50 0.50 0.75 0 .50 0.25 Q.S. Q.S.
TO pH 5-6
2. Add t h e Tagat L, A n t i l 171, and PEG-75 L a n o l i n . M i x u n t i l c l e a r .
3 . Add t h e remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between a d d i t i o n s .
4 . A d j u s t pH.
Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-on Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens
Extra Sheen
I n g r e d i e n t s : Water Tet rasodium EDTA Propylene G l y c o l G1 y c e r i n Dimeth icone Propy l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l B 9950) Dimeth icone Copolyo l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-75 Lanol i n PEG-30 G l y c e r y l Cocoate/Oleate ( A n t i l 171) Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e s C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n )
Procedure: 1. Heat water t o 50C. D i s s o l v e Tetrasodium EDTA.
?ivtJy 66.15
0.10 10.00 20.00
0.75 1.50 0 . 7 5 0 .25 Q.S. Q.S.
TO pH 5-6
2 . Add t h e Tagat L, A n t i l 171, and PEG-75 L a n o l i n . M ix u n t i l c l e a r .
3 . Add t h e remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between addi t i ons .
4. A d j u s t pH.
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical C o r p . : Suggested Formula t ions
208 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Ethnic Hair Glosser/Conditioner
T h i s w a t e r - i n - o i l fo rmula based on a s i l i c o n e Do lvmer ic e m u l s i f i e r i s des igned f o r use g i v e g l o s s and body e s p e c i a l l y t r e a t e d .
I n a r e d i e n t s : Phase A: O i l Phase: C e t y l Dimeth icone Copolyo l (Ab P e t r o l a t u m M i n e r a l O i l
as a l e a v e on c o n d i t i o n e r t o f o r h a i r which has been c h e m i c a l l y
1 EM-90)
C e t y l Dimeth icone Copolyo l ( A b i l Wax 9801) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegosof t OP) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegosof t P) L a n o l i n O i l Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 20)
Phase B: Fragrance
Phase C: Water Phase: Water Sodium C h l o r i d e G l y c e r i n P r e s e r v a t i v e s
2 . 0 6 . 0
10.0 2 .0 3 . 5 3 . 5 3 . 0 2 .0
Q . S .
64.3 0 . 7 3.0 Q.S.
Procedure: 1 . B lend t h e components o f Phase A t o g e t h e r , h e a t i n g t o 5OC.
2. Cool t o 40-45C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add f r a g r a n c e . 3. I n a separa e v e s s e l , mix t h e components t o Phase C t o g e t h e r . 4 . Add Phase C t o Phase A/B s l o w l y w i t h s low l i g h t n i n g mix.
5 . Homogeni ze.
Mix u n t i l f u l l y d i s p e r s e d .
M i x u n t i l a 1 water i s i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h e o i l phase.
Ethnic Pump Spray Conditioner
I n a r e d i e n t s : Water Propy lene G l y c o l G l y c e r i n Dimeth icone Copolyo l ( A b i l B 88183) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) Panthenol Tocopherol A c e t a t e ( V i t a m i n E) P r e s e r v a t i v e s
Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g .
&y.& 82 .2
7 . 5 7 .5 2 .0 0 .5 0 . 2 0 .1 Q . S .
SOURCE: Goldschmi d t Chemical Corp. : Suggested Formul a t i ons
Hair Care Products 209
Ethnic Hair Glosser/Extra Conditioning
T h i s w a t e r - i n - o i l f o rmu la based on a s i l i c o n e p o l y m e r i c e m u l s i f i e r i s designed f o r use as a l eave on c o n d i t i o n e r t o g i v e g l o s s and body e s p e c i a l l y f o r h a i r which has been chem- i c a l l y t r e a t e d . I n a r e d i e n t s : Phase A : O i l Phase: C e t y l Dimethicone Copolyol ( A b i l EM-90) Pe t ro la tum M i n e r a l O i l C e t y l Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 9801) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegoso f t OP) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegoso f t P) L a n o l i n O i l Phenyl T r ime th i cone ( A b i l AV 20) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3474)
Phase 8 : Fragrance
Phase C : Water Phase: Water Sodium C h l o r i d e G1 ycer i n P r e s e r v a t i v e s
%&y&
2 . 0 6 . 0
1 0 . 0 2.0 3.5 3 . 0 3 . 0 2 . 0 0.5
Q . S
64.3 0.7 3.0 Q . S
Procedure: 1 . Blend t h e components o f Phase A t o g e t h e r - h e a t i n g t o 50C.
2 . Cool t o 40-45C w i t h a g i t a t i o n - add f r a g r a n c e . 3. I n a separa te vesse l , m ix t h e components t o Phase C t o g e t h e r . 4. Add Phase C t o Phase A/B s l o w l y w i t h s low l i g h t n i n g m ix .
5 . Homogeni ze .
Mix u n t i l f u l l y d i spe rsed .
Mix u n t i l a l l water i s i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h e o i l phase.
Ethnic Hair Care Extra Conditioning Coat Conditioner
I n a r e d i e n t s : Cyclomethicone (and) D imeth icono l (and)
( A b i l OSW 12) Cycl omethi cone Isohexadecane o r M i n e r a l O i l O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegoso f t OP) O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t OS) Phenyl T r ime th i cone ( A b i l AV 20) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3474)
D i methi cone 50.0 30.5 8.0 3.0 3.0 5.0 0.5
Procedure:
SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Chemical Corp, : Suggested Formul a t i ons
Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g .
210 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Extra Hold Conditioning Mousse
I. Water Amp h ome r Ami nomethyl Propanol Dow Corn ing 929 Emulsion Phosphol i p i d EFA SD3A A l c o h o l
11. Hydroxyethy l C e l l u l o s e Water
I 11. Propel 1 a n t
% by Wei Pht 37.35
3.75 0.60 0 .40 0 .60
10.00
0.30 37.00
10.00
Procedure:
c a r e f u l l y s p r i n k l e h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t o water w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Heat may be a p p l i e d t o h e l p s o l u b i l i z a t i o n . B lend P a r t I1 t o I and t h e n a e r o s o l i z e .
Prepare P a r t I and I 1 s e p a r a t e l y . To p repare P a r t 11,
Formula F-554
Leave-On Hair Conditioner
I n q r e d i e n t s : Water Hydroxyethy l C e l l u l o s e G l y c o l Di s t e a r a t e C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l Monaquat TG Phosphol i p i d EFA Methy l Paraben Propy l Paraben
% bv Weiqht 90 I 2
0 .5 1 .5 1 . 8 5 . 5 0 .3 0 . 1 0 . 1
Procedure Charge
a g i t a t i o n S t i r c o o l
water , s l o w l y add h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e w i t h good
t o b l e n d 40C and add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , e t c . Package. . Add remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s and heat t o 65-7OC.
Whi te P e a r l e d L o t i o n V i s c o s i t y : 2500 cp pH: 5 . 6
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions
Hair Care Products 211
Firm Hold Hairspray
I n n r e d i e n t s : Resyn 28-291 3 AMP C r o t e i n AD Anhydrous DC- 190 Armeed DM18D Fragrance Anhydrous Ethano l , SDA-40 Propel 1 a n t A-46
P a r t s by Weight 2.50 0.24 0.20 0.20 0.15
71 - 7 1 25.00
Q.S.
Valve: Seaqu is t NS-41 Stem: 2 x 0.020" ( A c e t a l ) Stem Gasket: Buna N 0.042'' S p r i n g : 0.023" 302 SS Body: 0.062" (Nylon) 0.020'' VT Mount ing Cup: Regular , Epoxy Top/Bottom, Dimpled A c t u a t o r : 0.020" M i s t y , A c e t a l ( b l a c k )
D i s s o l v e AMP i n anhydrous e t h a n o l , SDA-40. S l o w l y add Prepara t i on :
Resyn 28-2913 t o t h e s o l u t i o n w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n . Add remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s and mix u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i 11 c o n c e n t r a t e . Charge p r o p e l 1 a n t .
Formul a 6472 : 94
High Performance Styling Spray
I n a r e d i e n t s : Resyn 28-2930 AMP Dow Corn ing 556 f l u i d C r o t e i n AD Anh. C i t r o f l e x 2 Fragrance 190 P r o o f E t h a n o l , SDA-40
P a r t s by Wei a h t 6 .75 0.83 0.15 0.20 0.15 0.10
92.02
P r e p a r a t i on :
a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add Resyn 28-2930 t o t h e v o r t e x . Cont inue m i x i n g u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s complete. Add ba lance o f i n g r e d i e n t s . When homogeneous, f i l t e r and f i l l .
SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Corp . : Suggested Formulas
D i s s o l v e AMP i n t h e 190 p r o o f SDA-40. W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good
Formula 6472:95
212 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Gel Curl Activator
Water Acrylate/Steareth-20/Methacrylate
Hys ta r CG G1 y c e r i ne 99% Propy lene G l y c o l D imeth icone Copo lyo l 193 Germaben I 1 T r i e thano l ami ne Fragrance Jo joba O i l
(Ac ryso l ICs-1) Copolymer
% 5 7 . 7
2.0 10 .3 23.9 2.0 2.3 1 . o 0.7 q . s . 0 . 1
Procedure: Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n descending o r d e r i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l
t ank , w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n and mix t i l c l e a r . Pack i n a p l a s t i c t u b e o r a p l a s t i c b o t t l e .
Alcohol Free Styling GelpH: 7.2
Water Propy lene G l y c o l A c r y l a t e / S t e a r e t h - 2 0 / M e t h a c r y l a t e Copolymer
Germaben I 1 D imeth icone Copo lyo l 193 Fragrance T r ie thano lamine Jo joba O i l
( A c r y s o l ICs-1)
%
12.0
2.0 1 . o 0 . 5 0 .5 0.7 0 .1
83.2
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . Next add i t e m 6 , a g i t a t e t i l c l e a r and package.
SOURCE: Frank B . Ross Co. , I nc . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
To t h e water add i n g r e d i e n t s 2 t h r u 5 p l u s 7 w i t h va ry s low
Hair Care Products 213
Guanidine No Base Relaxer A c r e a m / a c t i v a t o r system f o r a no base r e l a x e r .
I n g r e d i e n t s : %w/w F u n c t i o n I. A c t i v a t o r S o l u t i o n : 1 . R . I . T . A . GC (Guan id ine Carbonate) 3 0 . 0 0 A c t i v a t o r 2 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 70 00 _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 3 . C o l o r , P r e s e r v a t i v e q I s . P r e s e r v a t i v e Compounding Procedure:
11. No Base Cream: 1 . R i t a c h o l 5000 ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 1 2 . 0 0 Emu1 s i f i e r 2 . R i taderm ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 4 . 0 0 E m o l l i e n t 3 . Pe t ro la tum 1 0 . 0 0 Tex tu re 4 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 w t . 16.00 Spread 5 . Supersat AWS 4 (PEG-20 Hydrogenated L a n o l i n ) 2 .00 M o i s t u r e 6 . Ca lc ium Hydrox ide , Dry 7 . 0 0 Re laxer 7 . Propy lene G l y c o l 5 . 0 0 Moi s t u r e 8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 4 4 . 0 0 -------- Compounding Procedure:
6-8 and heat t o 70C. Combine b o t h phases, m i x w e l l and c o o l w i t h m i x i n g t o 45C. Add remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s and c o o l w i t h m i x i n g t o 40C. Package I a t 1 . 7 5 f 1 . o ~ . Package I 1 a t 7 . 5 0 f l . 0 2 . D i r e c t i o n s :
Mix I i n 11, s t i r w e l l w i t h wooden s t i c k u n t i l c o l o r i s comp le te l y d i s p e r s e d . Use as p e r normal r e l a x e r i n s t r u c t i o n s .
Ref . No. 117-82
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s a t 2OC w i t h adequate m i x i ng.
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s 1-5 and heat t o 70C. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s
Potassium RelaxerP o t a s s i um Hydrox i de re1 axer based on t h e emuls i f i c a t i on power
o f R i t a c h o l 5000. I n g r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n 1 . R i t a c h o l 5000 ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 1 5 . 0 0 Emu 1 s i f i e r 2 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 w t . 1 7 . 0 0 E m o l l i e n t 3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 0 Spread 4. Pe t ro la tum 17.50 Spread 5 . R i tahyd rox ( H y d r o x y l a t e d L a n o l i n ) 0 . 5 0 S t a b i 1 i t y 6 . Propylparaben 0 . 1 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e 7 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 0 E m u l s i f i e r 8 . G l y c e r i n e @ 99% 6 .00 Humectant
IO. Methy l paraben 0 . 2 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e 11.Potassium Hydrox ide 13 25% 10.00 Re laxer Compoundi ng Procedure:
Combine i t e m s 1-7 i n separa te c o n t a i n e r and h e a t t o 80C. Combine i t e m s 8-10 and h e a t t o 80C and add t o i t e m s 1-7. M i x i n v a r i a b l e speed m i x e r f o r 1 m i n u t e . Add water t o c o o l i n g pan and mix u n t i l 65C. S l o w l y add KOH. Add i c e t o c o o l i n g pan and c o o l t o 25C.
9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 29.67 -____- -__
R e f . No. 118-176
SOURCE: R.I.T.A. C o r p . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
214 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Brushing Lotion
A . Amihope LL TL-10 (PEG-20 S o r b i t a n Mono laura te) 1 ,3 -Butaned io l (Bu ty lene G l y c o l ) S t e a r y l A l coho l Carbopol 941 (Carbomer 941)*
u 0 . 5 0 . 5 0 . 5 0 . 3
10 .0
B . Water 68 .2
C . E thano l 20.0
* 0 . 5 % w t Carbomer 941 aqueous s o l u t i o n ( n e u t r a l i z e d by NaOH)
Procedure: 1 . Each chemical c i t e d i n ( A ) i s weighed i n a g l a s s v e s s e l .
Heat i t t o 60-70C and s t i r u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s homogeneous. 2 . Add a p r e v i o u s l y warmed water (9) [60-70C] t o t h e former
p repared s o l u t i o n and coo l i t t o room tempera ture w i t h s t i r r i n g .
3 . Add a 20.09 e thano l (C) t o t h e coo led s o l u t i o n w i t h s t i r r i n g .
Note: T h i s h a i r b r u s h i n g l o t i o n has a good a n t i s t a t i c e f f e c t and
g i v e s good c o m b a b i l i t y . Amihope LL decreased t h e f r i c t i o n between h a i r and comb o r b rush remarkab ly .
Usage: Spray t h e h a i r b e f o r e b r u s h i n g .
Hair Brushing Lotion
Amihope LL POE (20 ) S o r b i t a n Mono laura te (Po lyso rba te 20) E thano l
Procedure: Mix a l l components a t room tempera tu re .
Wt% 0 . 5 0 . 5
99 .0
Note :
e f f e c t and smoothness f o r t h e h a i r .
c a t i o n i c s u r f a c t a n t .
Usage: Spray t h e h a i r b e f o r e b r u s h i n g .
SOURCE: Aj inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
T h i s h a i r b r u s h i n g l o t i o n a l c o h o l i c t y p e has good a n t i s t a t i c
Amihope LL a c t s as h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g agent i n s t e a d o f t h e
Hair Care Products 215
Hair Conditioner
T h i s f o r m u l a i n c o r p o r a t e s a m i x t u r e of p r o t e i n and e x t r a c t s t h e have a good a f f i n i t y f o r h a i r , e s p e c i a l l y when b leached and damaged, l e a v i n g your h a i r smooth, s i l k y and more manageable.
Water Phase I: Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) Buty lene G l y c o l (Hoechst) G1 y c e r i ne (Uni chema) C e l l o s i z e (Hercu les) Methy lparaben ( S u t t o n ) S o r b i t o l 70% Carbopol 940 2% Tris(hydroxymethy1)aminomethane
O i l Phase: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen) L iquapar ( S u t t o n ) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel ) Deo. Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) V i t a m i n E (BASF) V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) Propylparaben ( S u t t o n ) S t e a r i c A c i d (Unichem) Wheat Germ O i 1 ( L i p o ) Sweet Almond O i l ( L i p o ) Propy lene G l y c o l D i o c t a n a t e ( I n o l e x )
Water Phase 11: Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow)
Ac t i ve Phase : Ginseng E x t r a c t ( A c t i v e Organ ics) A r n i c a E x t r a c t ( A c t i v e Organ ics) Wheat P r o t e i n (Vege-Tech) Fragrance
61.20% 3.00% 2 .00% 0.30% 0.30% 2.00% 6.00% 0.60%
5.00% 0.40% 2.00% 1 .OO% 0.10% 0.10% 0.20% 2.00% 1.20% 1.20% 2.50%
5,00% 1 .OO%
1 ,OO% 1.00% 0 I 70% 0.20%
Procedure: D isperse t h e c e l l o s i z e i n t h e water and when d i s p e r s e d and
added t h e r e s t o f phase. Heat t h e water phase I t o 8OC and t h e o i l phase t o 82C. S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o water phase I under moderate a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 70C and add water phase 11. Cont inue m i x i n g and added t h e a c t i v e phase a t 35C. Cool t o room tempera ture .
A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :
i n t r o d u c e d i n t o t h i s t y p e o f fo rmula .
SOURCE: Koster Keunen I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Other a c t i v e compounds and c o n d i t i o n i n g agents a r e e a s i l y
216 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Conditioner with Moisturizers & Quaternium-79 HydrolyzedAnimal Protein
Mackol 1618 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) Mackerni um SDC-85 ( S t e a r a l koni urn C h l o r i d e )
Wei Qht ,% 3 . 0 3 . 0
Propy l ene G1 y c o l 1 . o G l y c e r i n 1 . o Mackamide AME-100 (Acetamide MEA) 1 . o M i n e r a l O i l 1 . o Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n )
( N a t u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 2 .0 Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Deion ized Water, Fragrance, Dye qs t o 100.0
pH: 3 . 5 - 4 . 5 V i s c o s i t y (cps 25 degrees C ) : 1500-3000
Procedure: 1 . M e l t waxes and o i l s t o 70 degrees C . 2 . S e p a r a t e l y heat water p l u s Mackpro NLP t o 70 degrees C. and
add h o t water s o l u t i o n t o h o t o i l s and waxes. 3 . S t a r t s t i r r i n g v i g o r o u s l y f o r 10 minu tes and t h e n s t a r t s low
c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g and a t 40 degrees C . add Mackstat DM t h e n f r a g r a n c e and dye and s low m i x i n g down c l o s e t o room tempera ture .
4 . Stop m i x i n g a t 30 degrees C, 5 . A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .
High Quality Conditioner
Mackernium SDC-25 (S teara lkon ium C h l o r i d e ) Mackol 1618 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) B r i j 72 Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in) Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o
Procedure: 1. Add components t o water and heat t o 70 degrees C. 2 . Wi th m i l d a g i t a t i o n b l e n d u n t i l homogeneous. 3 . Cool t o 50 degrees C . and add dye and f ragrance. 4 . Cool and f i l l .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary
Wei q h t ,% 1 0 . 0
2.0 2.0
qs 100.0
Hair Care Products 21 7
Hair Conditioning Gel
I n g r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: P a r t A : De ion ized Water H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropy l t r imon ium C h l o r i d e C i t r i c A c i d Methy lparaben
% by Weipht
89.94 0.80
0 .40 0 . 0 6 0.02
P a r t 8 : Panthenol 0 .30 Sodi um P C A / A j i dew N-50 3 . 0 0 P a r t i a l l y Deacety la ted C h i t i n (1% So lu t ion) /Mar ine-Dew 3 .00
D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea 0 . 3 0
Procedure: Add p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Heat t o 75 degrees Cent-
i g r a d e . Mix u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . Cool t o 50 degrees Cent- i g r a d e . Add p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e g i v e n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 35 degrees C e n t i g r a d e .
Polyquatern ium-11 2 . 0 0
Appearance: C l e a r g e l
V i s c o s i t y : 7,000-10,000 (RVT #5 I3 lOrpm I3 25 degrees C) pH: 4.5-5.5
Hair Conditioner with CAE
I n q r e d i e n t s : Phase A : Cetanol Ami te r LGS-2 N i kkol MYS-55
Phase B : CAE A-SM Prodew 100 G l y c e r i n Methy lparaben Water
Wt%
3 . 0 2 .0 1 . o
1 . o 3 . 0 2 . 0
1 0 . 0 0 . 2
77.8
S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : pH: 5 . 0 V i s : 2500 cps Procedure:
Mix i n g r e d i e n t s Phase A and heat t o 75-80 degrees C. M ix i n g r e d i e n t s Phase B and heat t o 75-80 degrees C . Add Phase A t o Phase 8 and mix w i t h homomixer (1500 t o 2500 RPM) . Cool t o 35 degrees C .
T h i s h a i r c o n d i t i o n e r has good a n t i s t a t i c and c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s .
Formula No. 1 CR-56-11 SOURCE: A j inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions
218 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Conditioning Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s : A B r i j 721s
C e t y l a l c o h o l S t e a r y l a1 coho1 S t e a r a l konium
o/ow/w 1 . 3 0 0 .90 0 .60 0 .50
B Water, d e i o n i z e d 96.70
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and ( B ) t o 62C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) w i t h moderate
a g i t a t i o n . Cool w h i l e a g i t a t i n g t o 40C. Add water t o compensate f o r loss due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
Clear Hair Conditioner Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s : A Hydroxyethy l c e l l u l o s e , Na t roso l 250HR
B F o r e s t a l l Water, d e i o n i z e d
o w 40.00
1 .40 58.60
Procedure:
water t o y i e l d a 3% s o l u t i o n . Prepare s o l u t i o n ( B ) . Add (B) t o (A) w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l homogeneous.
Mix (A) i n advance by d i s p e r s i n g hyd roxye thy l c e l l u l o s e i n
Hair Conditioning Gel
I n a r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l
A r 1 aso l ve 200 B r i j 93
B Water, d e i o n i zed Propy lene g l y c o l Sorbo F o r e s t a l 1
11 . o o 20.00
6 .00
49.60 5 .00 7 . 0 0 1 .40
Procedure:
Cool t o 60C and add make-up wa te r . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m and pour w h i l e s t i l l f l u i d .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Formulations
Heat (A) and ( B ) t o 9OC. Add (B) t o ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g .
Hair Care Products 219
Hair Cream
(0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e Squal ane N i k k o l WCB Po lyoxye thy lene (6300) Monostearate G l y c e r y l Monostearate ( S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g Type) Po lyoxye thy lene (20) C e t y l E t h e r
(W) A j i dew N-50 Water P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure: 1 . Heat ( 0 ) and (W) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . F i n i s h s t i r r i n g a t 40C.
pH: 7 . 3 V i s c o s i t y : 900 cps
Hair Tonic
( 0 ) P y r o t e r GPI-25 P y r o t e r CPI-40 E t h y l A l coho l (95%) L-Menthol Camphor Methy lparaben Perfume
(W) A j i dew T-50 Water
Wt% 38 .0
3 . 0 0 . 5 0 . 5 0 . 1 4 . 1 2 . 9
3 . 0 47 .9
q . s .
- W t % 2.7 0.3
5 0 . 0 0.4 0 . 0 5 0 . 0 5 q . s .
4 . 0 42 .5
Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e (0) and (W) s e p a r a t e l y a t room tempera tu re t o be
2 . Add (W) t o (0) w i t h s t i r r i n g . c l e a r s o l u t i ons.
pH: 7 .5 V i s c o s i t y : 5 cps
SOURCE: Aj inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
220 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair DressingW/O Cold Process
I n q r e d i en t s : Phase A : C e t y l D imeth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l EM-90) M i n e r a l O i l C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s (Tegosof t CT) C e t y l Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 9801) Cyclomethicone ( A b i l 0 8839) Pol y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( I s o l an G I 34) C e t e a r y l Isononoanoate (Tegoso f t C I ) C e t y l Octanoate (Tegoso f t CO) Fragrance Phase B: Water Propy lene G1 yco l Quaternium-80 (Ab i 1 Quat 3270) G1 y c e r i n Sodium C h l o r i d e P r e s e r v a t i v e s
2 . 0 7 . 3 3 . 0 1 . o 5 . 0 1 . o 1 . 5 0 . 8 Q.S.
72.9 3 . 0 0 . 5 1 . 2 0 . 8 Q.S.
Procedure: 1 . M ix t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o g e t h e r . 2 . D i s s o l v e t h e Sodium C h l o r i d e i n t o t h e wa te r . Add t h e G l y c e r i n
and Propy lene G l y c o l . Mix u n t i l c l e a r . 3 . Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e s and Quaternium-80 t o t h e water phase.
Mix u n t i l f u l l y d i spe rsed . 4 . Add Phase B t o Phase A s l o w l y w i t h s o f t p r o p e l l e r m i x i n g .
M a i n t a i n , a t a l l t imes , a creamy appearance. 5. Homogenize.
Hair Styling Gel
I n q r e d i e n t s : ?&&
(Ab i 1 OSW-12) 22.20 Cycl omethicone (and D i methi cono l (and) D i methi cone
Phenyl T r ime th i cone ( A b i l AV-20) 3.00 Cycl omethi cone (Ab i B 8839) 3.00 Propy lene G1 yco l 42.00 Hexyl ene G1 y c o l 4.55 Water 22 .oo G1 y c e r i n 1 . o o P rese rva t i ves Q . S . Po lyac ry lam ide (and) C13-14 I s o p a r a f f i n (and)
Lau r e t h-7 2.25
Procedure:
When a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e combined, c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i nc reases . F i n a l p roduc t i s a t r a n s l u c e n t , c o l o r l e s s g e l .
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Suggested Formulat ions
Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o rde r , m i x i n g w e l l between a d d i t i o n s .
Formula BAM-5-43
Hair Care Products 221
Hair Gloss to Control Gel Concentrate
Inqredi ents: Methacryloyl Ethyl Eetaine/Methacrylates Copolymer Water Dimethicone (Abi 1 350) Phenyl Trimethicone (Abil AV-20) Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol (and) Dimethicone (Abi 1 OSW-12)
Propylene G1 ycol* Hexylene Glycol Preservatives Fragrance Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoperaffin (and) Laureth-7
%w/w 1.50 20.00 4.00 4.00
25.00 35.00
7 . 5 0 Q . S . Q . S . 3.00
Procedure:
When all ingredients are combined, continue mixing until clear. Vi scosi ty wi 1 1 develop after mi xi ng.
*Ethanol can be substituted for part of the propylene glycol if a lighter product is needed.
Blend the ingredients together in the order given with mixing.
Iridescent Hair Gel Concentrate
Innredients: Cyclomethicone (and) (Abi 1 OSW-12)
Phenyl Trimethicone Propylene Glycol Hexyl ene G1 ycol Water Preservatives Polyacrylamide (and)
Procedure:
Di methi conol (and) Dime
Abil AV-20)
C13-14 Isoparaffin (and
hi cone 27.27 4.55 40.93 4.55 20.45
Laureth-7 2.25 Q . S .
Add the i ngredi ents i n order, mi xi ng we1 1 between additions. When all ingredients are combined, continue mixing until clear and iridescent. Formul at i on EAM-3-5
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp . : Suggested Formulations
222 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Pomade
High l u s t e r h a i r pomade based on n a t u r a l S imchin and Shebu. P a t i o n i c SSL and R i tapan DL p r o v i d e m o i s t u r i z a t i o n f o r h e a l t h y 1 o o k i ng h a i r . I n g r e d i e n t s : w 1 . M i n e r a l O i 1 - 90 w t . 5.00 2 . S imchin R e f i n e d ( J o j o b a O i l ) 2.00 3. P e t r o l a t u m 85.70 4. Shebu (Shea B u t t e r ) 2 .00 5. L a n o l i n USP ( L a n o l i n ) 2 .00 6. Ri tapan DL (Panthenol DL) 0.50 7. P a t i o n i c SSL (Sodium S t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 2.40 8 . Fragrance 0.20 9 . G lydant 0 .20
F u n c t i o n L u s t e r Emol 1 i e n t Ho ld L u s t e r Ho ld H e a l t h M o i s t u r e Odor P r e s e r v a t i v e
Compounding Procedure: B lend i t e m s 1-7 a t 70C. S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 40C and
add remai n i ng i terns. F i 11 i n t o c o n t a i n e r s . Ref . N o . 118-173
Hair Pomade
Q u a l i t y h a i r pomade f o r m u l a t e d w i t h Simchin and Shebu f o r l u s t e r . P a t i o n i c ISL p r o v i d e s m o i s t u r i z a t i o n .
I n a r e d i e n t s : 1 . Ritawax ( L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 2 . M i n e r a l O i l 3. Simchin Ref ined ( J o j o b a O i l ) 4 . Shebu (Shea B u t t e r ) 5 . P e t r o l atum 6. R i t a l a n ( L a n o l i n O i l ) 7. P a t i o n i c ISL (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l 8 . G lydant 9 . Fragrance - Jergens Type R-30318
1.50 5.00 2.00 1 . o o
84.60 3.00
L a c t y l a t e ) 2 .50 0.20 0.20
Funct i on Fee 1 Spread L u s t e r L u s t e r Spread L u s t e r M o i s t u r e P r e s e r v a t i v e Odor
Compounding Procedure: B lend i t e m s 1-7 and heat u n t i l c l e a r . Cool w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l
50C. Add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e . F i l l h o t w h i l e m i x i n g . Ref . N o . 118-178
SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products 223
Hair Relaxer - Glycerine
G l y c e r i n e based h a i r r e l a x e r which m o i s t u r i z e s h a i r . Emuls ion s t a b i l i t y based on R i t a c h o l 2000.
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 2 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 W t . 3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 4 . P e t r o l a t u m 5 . R i t a h y d r o x (Hydroxy la ted L a n o l i n ) 6 . Propy lparaben 7 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 8 . G l v c e r i n e 9 , D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 10.Methy lparaben 11.Sodium Hydrox ide (25% S o l u t i o n )
%w/w 5 . 0 0 7.00 2 .00 7.50 0 . 5 0 0 .13 2.00 6 .00
29.67 0 . 2 0
1 0 . 0 0
Funct i on Emul s i f i e r Spread Feel V i s c o s i t y S t a b i 1 i t y P r e s e r v a t i v e Emul s i f i e r M o i s t u r e
P r e s e r v a t i v e Re1 a x i ng
------- -
Compounding Procedure:
I n separa te beaker hea t i t ems 8-10 t o 85C. Add t h i s water m i x t u r e t o o i l m i x t u r e and mix a t low speed f o r 1 m inu te . Add c o l d water t o c o o l i n g pan and coo l t o 65C. Add Sodium Hydrox ide s o l u t i o n and m i x . Then add i c e t o c o o l i n g pan and c o o l t o 25C. Note: I n v e r s i o n w i l l occur d u r i n g m i x i n g .
Combine i t e m s 1-7 i n K i t c h e n A i d m ixe r bowl and hea t t o 80C.
Re f . No. 118-168
Hair Relaxer - Glycol
I nqred i e n t s : 1 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 2 . M i n e r a l O i l NF 3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 4 . P e t r o l a t u m 5 . R i t a h y d r o x (Hydroxy la ted L a n o l i n ) 6 . Propy lparaben 7 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 8 . Propy lene G l y c o l 9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 10.Methy lparaben 1 l .Sod ium Hydrox ide (25% S o l u t i o n )
%w/w 15.00 17.00
2.00 17.50
0 . 5 0 0.13 2.00 6.00
29 .67 0 . 2 0
10.00
F u n c t i o n E m u l s i f i e r Emol l i e n t Spread Spread S t a b i 1 i t y P r e s e r v a t i v e Emul s i f i e r Humectant
P r e s e r v a t i ve Ac t i ve
--------
Compounding Procedure: Weigh and m e l t i t ems 1-7 a t 80C i n K i t c h e n A i d m ixe r bow l .
I n separa te beaker hea t i t ems 8-10 t o 85C. Add water phase t o o i l phase and mix f o r one m inu te . Add c o o l i n g water t o m ixe r c o o l i n g pan and c o o l t o 65C. Add Sodium Hydrox ide, t h e n add i c e t o c o o l i n g pan, and t h e n c o o l t o 25C w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n . Note i n v e r s i o n d u r i n g c o o l i n g p rocess .
Re f . No. 118-169
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
224 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Sculpting Cream
T h i s cream g i v e s s h i n e t o t h e h a i r w i t h o u t b e i n g greasy and makes h a i r easy t o s t y l e and manage. The Geahlene g i v e s v i s c o s i t y t o t h e cream and h e l p s h o l d h a i r i n p l a c e . I n c l u s i o n o f wheat p r o t e i n adds body and c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s . I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Weiqht% A De ion ized Water 62.86
Sol u b l e Wheat P r o t e i n / T r i t i s o l 1 . o o Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.80 Panthenol /DL-Panthenol 0 .10 D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea/Germal l I 1 0 .30 PVP/PVP K-30 1 . o o
B Phenoxyethanol/Emeressence 1160 0.70 Methy lparaben 0.20 Propy l ene G1 y c o l 5 . 0 0
C P o l y g l y c e r o l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimeth icone Copolyo l (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e / A b i l WE-09 5 . 0 0
M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Buty lene/Ethy lene/ S ty rene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Ethy lene/ Propy lene/Styrene Copolymer//Geahlene 750 20.00
Phenyl T r i meth i cone/Dow Corn i ng 556 3 . 0 0 Fragrance 0.04
Mix p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat p a r t B t o 60C w i t h Procedure:
g e n t l e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r , premix p a r t C . S l o w l y add p a r t s A and B t o p a r t C i n smal l inc rements w i t h h i g h shear m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Hair Conditioner
P a r t A : Dei o n i zed Water 90.60 Busan 1504 0 .10 Panthenol 0 . 2 5 A loe Vera 200X 0 .05 D i sod i urn EDTA 0 .05 C e t e a r y l A lcoho l & Cetearath-20 1 - 1 0 S t e a r y l A lcoho l & Cetr imonium Bromide 5 .00 Jo joba O i l 0.30 P a r t B: Acetamide MEA & Lactamide MEA 1 .oo Hydro1 yzed Wheat P r o t e i n & Wheat 01 i gosacchar i des 1 .25 Sodium PCA 0 .30 Procedure:
and mix u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . M a i n t a i n tempera ture a t 7 % and add remain ing P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r shown, e n s u r i n g t h a t each i s c o m p l e t e l y b lended i n t o b a t c h b e f o r e t h e a d d i t i o n o f t h e n e x t i n g r e d i e n t . M ix w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C. Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r shown and m i x u n t i l each i s d i s s o l v e d . Cool w h i l e m i x i n g t o 35C. SOURCE: Buckman L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Heat D I water t o 75C. Add Busan 1504 p r e s e r v a t i v e t o water
Hair Care Products 225
Hair Straightener
Formula: Phase A : Dei o n i zed Water Propy l ene G1 y c o l
Phase B : Pol awax Pe t ro la tum ( P r o t o p e t 1s) Hydrogenated Po ly i sobu tene
Phase C : Sodium Hydrox ide (25% S o l )
Phase D : Propy lene G l y c o l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and)
Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben
56.00 2 . 0 0
15.00 8 . 0 0
10.00
8 . 0 0
1 . o o
Procedure: Combine and heat water phase A and o i l phase B s e p a r a t e l y
t o 75C. Add t h e o i l phase t o t h e water phase w i t h r a p i d m i x i n g . Cool t o 40C b e f o r e add ing C and D . Cool t o room temp. and package.
Conditioning Styling Gel
P a r t A : Water, D . I . Merquat 100
P a r t B: 61 andol B r i j A r l a t o n e G Propy lene g l y c o l G l y c e r i n e
P a r t C: Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e and c o l o r
Procedure: M ix P a r t A
Then, add Par m i x t u r e i s un P a r t C a t 53C
SOURCE: Wi t co Formu
Percent
q . s . t o 100 2.00
10.00 21 . o o 10 .00
8.00 7 .00
9 . s . q . s .
and B i n separa te vesse ls , h e a t i n g each t o 9OC. B t o P a r t A w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . When t h e
fo rm beg in t o c o o l , c o n t i n u i n g a g i t a t i o n . Add and c o n t i n u e c o o l i n g . Pour a t 50C.
Corp . : Pe t ro la tum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested a t i ons
226 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
High Petrolatum MousseAerosol
O i l Phase: P ro tope t 1s Pe t ro la tum Crodamol PMP Volpo 3 Water Phase A : Dei o n i zed Water Carbopol 941 10% Sodium Hydrox ide S o l u t i o n Water Phase 8: G1 y c e r i ne Volpo s-10 Germaben I 1
w 15.00
5 .00 1.20
69.30 0.13 0 .52
5 .00 2.85 1 .00
Procedure: Water Phase A :
Charge a vesse l w i t h water and d u s t i n t h e carbomer. S t a r t h e a t i n g - t o 80C. When comp le te l y d i spe rsed , add t h e sodium hyd rox ide s o l u t i o n and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g . Water Phase 0 :
When u n i f o r m add t o Water Phase A . O i l Phase:
Combine a l l components o f t h e o i l phase, mix and heat t o When u n i f o r m add t h e combined water phases s l o w l y w h i l e mix Cont inue m i x i n g t o room tempera tu re . F i l l R a t i o :
Combine components i n a separa te vesse l and mix, heat t o
Concent ra te 4.0%, P r o p e l l a n t A-46 96%.
Hot Oil Hair Treatment Mousse
80C.
80C. ng.
Percent Water 57.80 D i sod i um EDTA 0 . 2 0 Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 10.00 Avocado O i l 5 .00 D imeth icone 2 .00 C e t e a r y l A l coho l (and) Ceteare th-20 (Promulgen D) 5.00 Jo joba O i l 1 . o o Mink O i l 1 .00 Castor O i l 5 .00 Oc ty ldodecy l S t e a r o y l S t e a r a t e (Ceraphy l 847) 10.00 Quaternium 26 (Ceraphy l 65) 2 .00 Germaben I 1 1 .oo Procedure:
80C. Cool t o 50C and add t h e Germaben 1 1 . Cool t o room temp- e r a t u r e and f i l l . 95% concent ra te /5% P r o p e l l a n t A-46. Appl i c a t i on:
f o r 15-20 m inu tes . R inse w e l l .
SOURCE: Wi t co Corp.: Pe t ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested
Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s except t h e Germaben I1 and heat t o
Apply smal l amount t o wet h a i r . Cover h a i r w i t h h o t t owe l
Fo rmu la t i ons
Hair Care Products 227
Hot Oil Conditioner
I n a r e d i e n t s : Cyclomethi cone (and) D imeth i cono l (and) D i methicone
( A b i l OSW 12) 25 .0 Dimethicone (100 c s t ) Cyc l omethi cone Phenyl T r ime th i cone ( A b i l AV 2 0 ) Fragrance
Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g .
50.0 22 .0
3 . 0 Q . S .
Hot Oil Super Conditioner
I n g r e d i e n t s : Cyclomethicone (and) D imeth icono l (and) Dimethicone
( A b i l OSW 12) 2 5 . 0 Dimethicone (100 c s t ) 42.0 Cyclomethicone 30 .0 Phenyl T r ime th i cone ( A b i l AV 20) 2 .5 Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3474) 0 .5 Fragrance Q.S.
Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g .
Soft Glossing Spritz
I na r ed i e n t s : Phenyl T r ime th i cone ( A b i l AV-20) Cyclomethicone ( A b i l B 8839) Dimethicone ( A b i l 1000) Dimethicone ( A b i l 100 ) Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone
( A b i 1 OSW-12) Benzophenone-3 Fragrance
Procedure: Combine
Caut i on
SOURCE: Go
w 10.0 22.7
2 .5 14 .5
50 .0 0 .3 Q . S .
a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r - m i x i n g w e l l
Traces o f water w i l l cause t u r b i d i t y .
dschmi d t Chemical Corp I : Suggested Formul a t i ons
228 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Intensive Conditioning Pomade
High o i l , m o i s t u r i z i n g pomade f o r c o n t r o l o f d r y , overworked ha i r .
I n q r e d i e n t s : 1 . P a r a f f i n (59-6OC) 2 . Pe t ro la tum
F u n c t i o n 10.70 Con t ro l 48.97 Moi s t u r e
3 . M i n e r a l O i l 30.00 Moi s t u r e 4 . F o r l a n L ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 5 . 0 0 Shine 5 . R i t a c h o l ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 3.00 Shine 6. P a t l a c I L ( I s o s t e a r y l L a c t a t e ) 2 . 0 0 Repa i r 7 . F ragrance #163-478 0 .30 Odor 8 . P r e s e r v a t i v e 0 .03 P r e s e r v a t i v e
Compounding Procedure: Mix a l l i t ems except perfume a t 65C. Cool t o 40C and add
perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Le t s e t up i n p roper c o n t a i n e r . Re f . No. 118-122
Light Oil Free Conditioner
Bas ic c o n d i t i o n e r t o p r o v i d e good combing and c o n d i t i o n i n g t o a l l h a i r t y p e s .
I n g r e d i e n t s : Func t i on 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . Rita-STAC (S tea r t r imon ium C h l o r i d e ) 1 .50 C o n d i t i o n e r 3 . R i t a p r o 165 ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 2 . 0 0 S t a b i l i t y 4. R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 0 R e - f a t t i ng 5 . Ri tawax ALA ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 0 . 5 0 Sh ine 6 . Fragrance - Salon #169-122 0 .30 Odor 7 . Kathon CG 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e
Compounding Procedure:
165F. Add t o water and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 120F and add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e .
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
93.67 __---------
Heat water t o 180F. I n separa te beaker heat i t ems 2-5 t o
Re f . No. 118-115
Hair Care Products 229
Intensive Hair Conditioner
An i n t e n s i v e c o n d i t i o n e r w i t h n o u r i s h i n g o i l t o make h a i r more h e a l t h y .
I n a r e d i e n t s : f u n c t i o n
2. Po lyquta 3000 (Polyquatern ium-10) 0.50 A n t i - S t a t i c , T h i c k e n e r 3 . Methy lparaben 0.15 P r e s e r v a t i v e 4 . Rita-STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 1.50 A n t i - S t a t i c ,
5. Rita-CTAC (Cetr imonium C h l o r i d e ) 2 .00 A n t i - S t a t i c ,
6. R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 8 .00 E m u l s i f i e r 7 . Wheat Germ O i l 1 . O O Nour i s h i ng O i 1 - H e a l t h 8 . Tocopherol 0.20 -------- 9. Propylparaben 0 . 1 0 P r e s e r v a t i ve 10.Kathon CG 0 .03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 11. D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 2 .00 ______-_ 12.Fragrance q . s .Odor
Compounding Procedure:
paraben. Heat t o 60C. Add i tems 4 and 5 and heat t o 70C. Heat i tems 6-9 t o 70-75C and add w i t h m i x i n g . Whi le m i x i n g , c o o l t o 45C and add i t e m s 10-12.
1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 84.52 ----------
C o n d i t i o n e r
Condi t i oner
D isperse Po lyquta 3000 i n w a t e r . When d ispersed, add M e t h y l -
Ref . No. 116-168
Salon Strength Hair Conditioner
Balanced c o n d i t i o n i n g and r e p a i r a r e ach ieved t h r o u g h proper ba lance o f Po lyquta and e m o l l i e n t a d d i t i v e s .
I n a r e d i e n t s : 1 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . M i n e r a l O i l 9NF 3 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 4. R i t a l a n C ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 5 . Rita-CTAC (Cetr imonium C h l o r i d e ) 6 . Po lyquta 3000 (Polyquatern ium-10) 7 . D i st i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 8 . G l y c e r i n e 9 . S o r b i t o l (70% S o l n . ) 1Q.Supersat AWS-4 (PEG-20 Hydrogenated
Lanol i n ) 1 l . K a t h o n CG 12.Fragrance
%w/w F u n c t i o n 2.00 R e - f a t t i n g 2 .00 Shine 0 .50 R e - f a t t i n g 1 . O O Shine, Combing 2 .00 Condi t i o n i ng 0 .50 Combing
2.00 Moi s t u r e 0.50 M o i s t u r e
1.00 Shine 0.02 P r e s e r v a t i v e 0.25 Odor
88.23 ----------
Compounding Procedure: Heat water t o 70C. Add i t e m 6 and mix u n t i l c l e a r . Add i t e m s
8-10 w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 75-80C. Hear i tems 1-5 t o 65C. Add t o water m i x t u r e . Cool t o 50C and add p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e .
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s Ref. No. 119-25
230 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Leave-On Scalp & Hair Conditioner
A dab o f leave-on s c a l p and h a i r c o n d i t i o n e r massaged i n t o t h e ha i r and sca lp , w i 1 1 p r o v i d e c o n d i t i o n i n g and manageabi 1 i t y t o t h e h a i r w h i l e p r o v i d i n g m o i s t u r i z a t i o n o f t h e s c a l p . Phospho l i p id GLA w i l l h e l p m a i n t a i n a h e a l t h y s c a l p and minim- i z e i t c h and s c a l i n g caused by excess i ve dryness . I t i s a l s o a d e l i v e r y system f o r gamma l i n o l e n i c a c i d , an e s s e n t i a l f a t t y a c i d f o r n o r m a l i z i n g s k i n .
I n q r e d i e n t s : Water Hydroxyethy l C e l l u l o s e G lyco l D i s t e a r a t e Ce ty l A l coho l Monaquat SL-5 Phosphol i p i d GLA P r e s e r v a t i v e
Wt.% 90 .2
0 . 5 1 . 5
5 . 5 0 . 3 a . s .
1 . a
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s p l u s p r e s e r v a t i v e and heat t o 65-7OC. S t i r coo l t o 40C and add f rag rance , c o l o r , e t c . package.
Charge wa te r , s l o w l y add hyd roxye thy l c e l l u l o s e w i t h good
Appearance: Whi te p e a r l e d l o t i o n V i s c o s i t y : 2500 CP pH: 6 . 5
Forrnul a F-653
Extra Hold Conditioning Mousse
I. Water Amp homer A m i nomethyl Propanol Dow Corn ing 929 Emulsion Phosphol i p i d EFA SD3A A lcoho l
I I . H y d r o x y e t h y 1 C e l l u l o s e Water
% BY Weight 37 * 35
3.75 0 .60 0 . 4 0 0 . 6 0
10 .00
0.30 37.00
1 I I . P r o p e l l a n t 10 .00
Procedure: Prepare P a r t I and I 1 s e p a r a t e l y . To p repare P a r t 11, ca re -
f u l l y s p r i n k l e hyd roxye thy l c e l l u l o s e i n t o water w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Heat may be a p p l i e d t o h e l p s o l u b i l i z a t i o n . Blend P a r t I 1 t o I and t h e n a e r o s o l i z e . Formula F-554
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Hair Care Products 231
Light Oil Free Conditioner
L i g h t o i l f r e e w i t h a touch o f foaming t o c l e a n l y cond- i t i o n h a i r t o t h e ends.
1 . 2.
3 .
4. 5. 6 . 7 . 8. 9 .
I n q r e d i e n t s : ?~J&I’ F u n c t i o n G r i l l o t e n LSE-87K (Sucrose Cocoate) 2 .00 C o n d i t i o n i n g , M i l d G r i 1 l o t e n PSE 141G (Sucrose
S t e a r a t e ) 4 .00 R i t a C e t e a r y l 70/30 ( C e t e a r y l
A1 coho1 ) 2.50 PEG-20 C e t e a r y l A lcoho l 0.50 Propylene G l y c o l 1 - 0 0 Po lyquta 400 (Polyquatern ium-10) 1 .50 G l y c e r i n e 3.00 D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 85 .17 Fraarance-Per t Tvee 189-724 0 . 3 0 - .
l 0 . K a t h o n CG 1 1 . C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l n . )
C lean ing , M i l d
R e - f a t t i ng Combing Humectant Combi ng, Sty1 e M o i s t u r e
Odor ---_----
0 .03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 9 , s . pH C o n t r o l
Compounding Procedure: Heat 1-4 t o 70C. Separa te ly d i s p e r s e i t e m 6 i n w a t e r . Then
add i t e m s 5 and 7 . Heat t o 80-85C. Then add i t e m s 1-4 t o m i x t u r e . Cool t o 40C and add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH w i t h C i t r i c A c i d t o pH 5 . 0 .
Ref . No. 118-121
Aloe Vera Hair Conditioner (Light)
A l i g h t s t r e n g t h c o n d i t i o n e r s p e c i a l l y f o r m u l a t e d f o r normal h a i r . Adds sheen t o h a i r .
I n a r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n 1 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 94.47 ---- 2 . R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e Vera G e l ) 0 .25 Shine 3 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 .00 Emul s i f i e r , Thi ckener 4 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1 . 0 0 Emul s i f i e r , Th i ckener 5 . Rita-STAC (Stear t r imon ium C h l o r i d e ) 1 .50 C o n d i t i o n e r ,
A n t i - s t a t i c 6 . S imchin R e f i n e d ( J o j o b a O i l ) 0 . 7 5 C o n d i t i o n e r , Shine 7 . Kathon CG 0 .03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 8 . Fragrance q . s .Odor
Compounding Procedure: Heat i tems 1 and 2 t o 70C. Heat i t e m s 3-6 t o 65-70C and add
w i t h s t i r r i n g . Cont inue m i x i n g u n t i l b a t c h reaches 40-45C. Add Kathon and Fragrance.
SOURCE: R.I.T.A, Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
R e f . No. 116-174
232 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Low Cost Relaxer
A lower c o s t r e l a x e r w i t h reduced o i l phase m a t e r i a l s . Laneto-100 p r o v i d e s s c a l p p r o t e c t i o n f rom i r r i t a t i o n .
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 2 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 3 . R i t o l e t h - 1 0 (O le th -10 ) 4 . Pe t ro la tum 5 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 w t . 6 . Laneto-100 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 7 . Propy lene G l y c o l 8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 9 . Sodium Hydrox ide (25% S o l n . )
%w/w 1 5 . 0 0
1 . o o 2 . 0 0 8 . 0 0
1 0 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 2 . 0 0
5 2 . 5 0 9 . 0 0
Func t i on Emul s i f i e r Emul s i f i e r Emul s i f i e r V i s c o s i t y Spread Feel M o i s t u r e
Re laxer --------
Compounding Procedure: Combine i t ems 1-5 and hea t t o 60C. I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r ,
hea t i t ems 6-8 and heat t o 60C. Add t o o i l phase and mix a t low speed. Cool t o 45C and add Sodium Hydrox ide s o l u t i o n . Cont inue m i x i n g and f i l l t o j a r s a t 30C.
Re f . No. 120-26
Extra Stable Relaxer
Very c o s t e f f i c i e n t , s t a b l e r e l a x e r f o r m u l a t i o n wh ich i s easy t o p rocess .
I n q r e d i e n t s : 1 . R i t a c h o l 5000 ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 1 0 . 0 0 2 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 W t . 16.00 3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 0 4 . Pet ro la tum 1 7 . 0 0 5 . Ri tahyd rox (Hydroxy la ted L a n o l i n ) 0 .60 6 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 0 7 . R i t o x 52 (PEG-40 S t e a r a t e ) 1 . 5 0 8 . G l y c e r i n e 6 .00 9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 34.70 10.Methylparaben 0 . 2 0 11.Sodium Hydrox ide (20% S o l u t i o n ) 10.00
Func t ion E m u l s i f i e r Spread Feel Tex tu re S t a b i 1 i t y Emul s i f i e r S tab i 1 i t y M o i s t u r e
P r e s e r v a t i v e Re1 axer
------- -
Compounding Procedure: Combine i t ems 1 - 7 i n o r b i t a l m ixer a t 80C. Combine i t ems 8-10
a t 80C and add t o o i l m i x t u r e . Cool t o 65C. Add Sodium Hydrox ide s o l u t i o n w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool i n i c e b a t h t o 25C. Homogenize i f necessary t o f u r t h e r improve s t a b i l i t y .
Ref . No. 117-21A
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Hair Care Products 233
Medium Hold, 80% VOC Pump Hair Spray
Dia former Z-A p r o v i d e s a medium h o l d i n t h i s c l e a r , water w h i t e sp ray . I t a l s o reduces s t a t i c and improves m a n a g e a b i l i t y when t h e h a i r i s combed. I t s c l e a r , f l e x i b l e f i l m g i v e s a n a t u r a l l o o k i n g h o l d w h i l e o f f e r i n g e x c e l l e n t c u r l r e t e n t i o n .
I n g r e d i e n t s : Phase A : D i aformer Z -A Dow Corn ing 190 Monamide 716 SD 40 A lcoho l Fragrance Dei o n i zed Water
%w/w
5.00 0 . 2 0 0 . 1 0
75.00 0 . 1 0
Q . S .
Procedure: Add D ia fo rmer Z-A t o a l c o h o l , m i x i n g w e l l . Add water w i t h
m i x i n g . Add remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e w i t h m i x i n g ,
Propert i es :
Fo rmu la t i on CHF-12
Appearance: C r y s t a l c l e a r , water w h i t e l i q u i d
55% VOC Pump Hair Spray
T h i s 55% VOC h a i r spray i n c o r p o r a t e s D ia fo rmer 2 -400 . T h i s deodor ized polymer i s w e l l s u i t e d t o l i g h t l y f rag ranced p r o d u c t s . I t p r o v i d e s a medium h o l d i n t h i s c r y s t a l c l e a r , water w h i t e sp ray . Velsan P8-3 a c t s a a non-greasy s u p e r f a t t i n g agent .
I n a r e d i en ts r Phase A : D i aformer 2-400 SD 40 A lcoho l Velsan P8-3 Fragrance De ion ized Water
4 . 0 0 40 .00
0 . 5 0 0 . 0 5
Q . S .
Procedure:
m i x i n g . A d d rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e w i t h m i x i n g .
Propert i es :
Add D ia fo rmer 2-400 t o a l c o h o l , m i x i n g we1 1 . Add water w i t h
Appearance: C r y s t a l c l e a r , water w h i t e l i q u i d
Fo rmu la t i on CHF-14
SOURCE: Sandoz Cherni c a l s Corp. : Suggested Formul a t i ons
234 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Medium Strength Hair ConditionerC o n d i t i o n i n g des igned t o p r o v i d e n o u r i s h i n g and combing
b e n e f i t s w h i l e l e a v i n g a c l e a n f e e l i n t h e wet mode due t o Dimethy l Quat. I n g r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n 1 . Rita-SBC (Steara lkon ium C h l o r i d e ) 1 .14 C o n d i t i o n e r 2 . Rita-CTAC (Cetr imonium C h l o r i d e ) 0 .48 C o n d i t i o n e r 3 . Ri ta-CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0.85 R e - f a t t i n g 4 . C i t r i c A c i d @ 100% 0.09 pH C o n t r o l 5 . Dimethy l Stearamine (Adogen MA-108) 0.13 C o n d i t i o n e r
7 . Promois WK-HQ (Hydroxypropyl t r i moni urn Hydro1 yzed Kera t i n ) 0 . 0 5 Body
8 . R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e Vera G e l ) 0 . 0 5 Body 9 . R i tapan DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 0 .05 Body 10.Propylene G l y c o l 0 . 5 0 Clean Feel 11 . Hydroxyethy l C e l l u l ose ( N a t r o s o l
250 HHR) 1.00 V i scos i t y 12.Kathon CG 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 13.Dow Corn ing 2-7224 0 .40 Combing 14.Dow Corn ing 344 F l u i d 0 .17 Combing 15. Fragrance 0 . 2 5 Odor Compounding Procedure:
t o 70C, add i t e m 5 and mix 20 min. Add another 10% o f t h e water a t room tempera ture and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g 20 min. To remain ing 75% o f water add i t e m s 7,8 and 9 a t room tempera ture . Add i t e m 10 and s l o w l y s i f t i n i t e m 11. A g i t a t e 15 min. w h i l e h e a t i n g b a t c h t o 35C. When b a t c h t h i c k e n s , i n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n f o r up t o 60 min. u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add i tems 12,13 and 14, c o n t i n u e m i x i n g . Then add q u a t e r n a r y / f a t t y a l c o h o l phase ( i t e m s 1-6) and f r a g r a n c e . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m .
6. D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 94.81 ---------
To 15% o f t o t a l water a t 65C add s e p a r a t e l y i t e m s 1-4. Heat
Ref . No. 116-1618
Medium Hair Conditioner Humectant c o n d i t i o n e r t o maximize combing f rom s i l i c o n e and
body f rom g l y c e r i n e . I n q r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n 1 . R i ta-STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i um
2 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 1 .00 C o n t r o l 3 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 5 . 0 0 Coat ing 4 . R i t a c e t i ( C e t y l E s t e r s ) 2.00 Combing 5 . R i tacet -PO (Ceteare th-20) 0.50 E m u l s i f i e r 6. G l y c e r i n e 1.00 Humectancy
8 . Dow Corn ing 344 F l u i d 2.00 Combing, Shine 9 . Fragrance - Finesse Type 0 . 3 0 Odor 10.Kathon CG 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e Compounding Procedure:
Heat i tems 1-5 t o 70C. I n separa te beaker heat i t e m s 6 and 7 t o 75C. Add 1-5 t o water . M i x and c o o l t o 50C. Add s i l i c o n e and mix. Add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e .
Ref . No. 118-117 SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp. : Suggested Formula t ions
C h l o r i d e ) 2 .40 C o n d i t i o n e r
7 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 85.77 --------
Hair Care Products 235
Moisture Balance Conditioner w/Cropeptide W
Al though t h i s easy-to-make c o n d i t i o n e r c o n t a i n s few i n g r e d - i e n t s , i t d e l i v e r s b i g c o n d i t i o n i n g b e n e f i t s .
I n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : I nc roqua t CR Conc. (Ce tea ry l A l coho l (and) PEG-40 Castor
O i l (and) S tea ra l kon ium C h l o r i d e ) 6 .00
Par t B: Dei on i zed Water 92.70
P a r t C : C ropep t ide W (Hydro lyzed Wheat P r o t e i n (and) Wheat
01 i gosaccar i des) 1 . 0 0 Methyl paraben 0 . 2 0 P ropy l paraben 0 .10
Procedure: Heat P a r t A and P a r t B s e p a r a t e l y t o 70-75C w i t h m i x i n g .
A t 70-75C, add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h m i x i n g and coo l t o d e s i r e d f i l l tempera ture .
pH: 4 . O t - 0 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 2,OOOt-10% (C25C) N . A . T . C . Approved
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Fo rmu la t i on HP-158
"Leave-On" Conditioner Concentrate
1. I n c o r p o r a t e f r a g r a n c e . Take an exac t we igh t o f Concent ra te and add exac t we igh t o f f rag rance (depending on l e v e l a f t e r d i l - u t i o n . Blend t o g e t h e r w i t h thorough m i x i n g .
Note : Concent ra te c o n t a i n s o n l y enough p r e s e r v a t i v e t o p r o t e c t t h e c o n c e n t r a t e . Please add a d d i t i o n a l p r e s e r v a t i v e t o p roduc t d i l u t e d s o l u t i o n .
2. D i l u t e t h e above concen t ra ted b l e n d w i t h 7 p a r t s o f d e i o n i z e d water f o r a f i r m s e t , o r w i t h 9 p a r t s d e i o n i z e d water f o r r e g u l a r s e t t i n g p r o d u c t .
3 . Apply f i n i s h e d p roduc t t o shampooed and towe l d r i e d h a i r . D o n ' t r i n s e . S t y l e h a i r .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on
236 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Natural Lipid Conditioner for Professional Salon
Mackerni um SDC-85 ( S t e a r a l kon i um C h l o r i d e ) Mackalene NDC (Oleamidopropyl Dimethy lamine
Weight ,% 1 . 5
(Oleamidopropyl Dimethy lamine L a c t a t e (and) P a l m i t - amidopropyl Dimethy lamine L a c t a t e (and) Palmi t o l - eami dopropy l Dimethy l ami ne L a c t a t e ) l . o
Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n ) ( N a t u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 2 .0
Mackol 1618 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1 . 8 S teare th-2 1 . E Macksta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) q s Water, Fragrance, Dye qs t o 100.0
Procedure: 1 . Add f i r s t f i v e components t o water and h e a t t o 70 degrees C . 2 . Cool t o 45 degrees C . and add remain ing components. 3 . Cool and f i l l .
Mild Opaque Conditioner
Weight ,% Mackalene 326 (Stearamidopropyl Morpho l ine L a c t a t e ) 8 . 0 C e t y l A l c o h o l 1 . 8 Phosphor ic A c i d 0 . 6 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 3 Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, Dye, Fragrance, qs t o 100.0
Procedure: 1 . Add f i r s t f o u r components t o water and heat t o 70 degrees C . 2 . With s t i r r i n g , c o o l and add dye, p r e s e r v a t i v e and perfume
a t 40 degrees C .
Mild Pearl Conditioner
Wei aht% Mackalene 326 (Stearamidopropyl Morpho l ine L a c t a t e ) 7 . 0 PEG 400 D i s t e a r a t e 0 . 5 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 5 Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in) qs Water, dye, f r a g r a n c e , qs t o 100.0
Procedure: 1 . Add t h e f i r s t t h r e e components t o water and heat t o 65
2. W i t h c o n t i n u o u s s t i r r i n g , c o o l t o 40 degrees C . and add dye,
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary
degrees C.
p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e .
Hair Care Products 237
Non-Aerosol Hair Spray with Protein
A non-aerosol h a i r spray based on p r o t e i n (Promois WK-HQ) and R i tapan DL. E x t r a sheen i s d e r i v e d f rom R i t a l a n AWS.
I n a r e d i e n t s : %&& 1 . SD Alcoho l - 40 66.70 2 . E t h y l E s t e r o f PVM/MA-Copolymer 7 . 0 0 3 . AMP-95 0 . 2 0 4 . Dimeth icone Copolyo l 0 .50 5 . R i t a l a n AWS (PPG-12-PEG-65 L a n o l i n O i l ) 0 .20 6 . Fragrance 0 . 1 0 7 . Promois WK-HQ ( P r o t e i n ) 0 .20 8 . R i tapan DL 0 . 1 0 9 . D i s t i 1 l ed /De i o n i zed Water 25.00
Funct i on Sol u b i 1 i t y H o l d N e u t r a l i z a t i o n Sheen Sheen Odor Repai r M o i s t u r e ----- ---
Compounding Procedure: Combine i t e m 2 t o a l c o h o l and mix u n t i l c l e a r . Add AMP and
mix w e l l . Add i t e m s 4-6 i n o r d e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Pre-mix i t ems 7-9 and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m .
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corc . : Re f . No. 1 2 0 - 2 4
Hair Rinse for Stressed Hair
Component: I. Emulgade 1000 N i
Eutanol G Cocopherol 1250
11. Dehyquart A Water, demin . /P rese rva t i on
pH-Value: approx. 4 V i s c o s i t y mPas, app rox . : 10.000
% 4,O 2,o 2;o
4 , O 88,O
P r e p a r a t i o n i n t h e Labora to ry :
Phase I. S t i r a t t h i s tempera tu re f o r 5 m inu tes . Cool down t o 40C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e a n d , i f necessary, hea t s e n s i t i v e a d d i t i v e s . Cool down t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . A d j u s t t h e pH v a l u e e . g . w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: F o r m u l a t i o n No. 90/322/7
M e l t phase I a t 80-850. Heat phase I 1 t o 80-85C and s t i r i n t o
238 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pearly Lotion Conditioner
Wei q h t ,% Mackalene 316 (S tearamidopropy l Dimethylamine L a c t a t e ) 7.0 PEG 400 D i s t e a r a t e 0 . 5 Sodium S u l f a t e 0 . 5 Propy lene G l y c o l 2 . 0 Macksta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) q s Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0
Procedure: 1. Add f i r s t f o u r components t o water and hea t t o 65 degrees C. 2 . Wi th m i l d a g i t a t i o n coo l t o 45 degrees C. and add rema in ing
components. 3 . Cool and f i l l .
Protein Lotion Conditioner
Wei q h t I % Macki ne 301 (S tearamidopropy l Dimethylamine) 1 . 5 Mackol 16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . 5 L a c t i c A c i d 88% 0 . 7 Mackpro NLP (Quatern i un-79 Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n )
( N a t u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 1 . 5 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 .5 Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, Fragrance, Dye qs t o 100.0
Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e sodium c h l o r i d e i n wa te r . 2 . Add f i r s t f o u r components and heat t o 70 degrees C . 3 . B1 end u n t i 1 homogenous. 4 . Cool t o 45 degrees C . and add remain ing components. 5 . Cool and f i l l .
Spray Leave-On Conditioner
Weiqht,% Mackpro NLP (Quatern i um-79 Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n )
( N a t u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 1 . o Mackalene 426 ( I sos tea ramidopropy l Morpho l i ne L a c t a t e ) 3 .0 Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100,o
Procedures: 1 . Add components t o w a t e r . 2 . Heat t o 40 degrees C . and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary
Hair Care Products 239
Pump Gel Type Spritz
A g e l s e t t i n g l o t i o n which can be d ispensed f rom a pump. Conta ins S e t t i n g agents, a n t i - s t a t s and R i tapan D L f o r r e p a i r and l u s t e r .
I n a r e d i e n t s : 1 . D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 2 . Propy lene G l y c o l 3 . R i tapan DL (Panthenol DL) 4. R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e G e l ) 5 . P o l y q u t a 3000 (Polyquatern ium-10) 6 . R i t a b a t e 20 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 20) 7. H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e 8. R i t a CTAC (Cetr imonium C h l o r i d e ) 9 . Fraarance
w 88.87
5.00 1 .oo 1 - 0 0 2.00 1 .oo 1 .oo 0 .50 0.20
F u n c t i o n
Humectant Repa i r Repai r S e t , A n t i - S t a b i 1 i t y Gel 1 i ng Condi t i on Odor
______---
l0 .Kathon CG 0.03 P r e s e r v a t
Compoun Comb
u n t i l c u n i f o r m and mix
Ref .
i ng Procedure: ne i tems 3 and 4 w i t h t h e water and h e a t t o 60C e a r . D isperse i tems 5 and 7 i n t o b a t c h . Mix u n t (about 30 m i n u t e s ) . Then add remain ina i t e m s i n w e l l I NO. 118-180
Moisturizing Hair Styling Gel
I n a r e d i e n t 1 . D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer 940) 3 . G l y c e r i n e 4. R i tapan DL (Panthenol d l ) 5 . Ethanol @ 95% 6 . Laneto 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 7 . Ritaphenone 3 (Benzophenone-3) 8 . Tet rasodium EDTA 9. PPG-12-Buteth-16 1O.PVP 11. Fragrance 12.DMDM Hydanto in 13. T r i e t h a n o l ami ne @ 99% 1 4 . D i s t i 1 led /De i o n i zed Water 1 5 . R i t a l a s t i n EL 30
w 58.20
0.60 10.00 0.20
10.00 5.00 0.10 0 . 1 0 5 . 0 0 1.50 0 . 1 0 0 .20 0 .60 5 .40 3.00
. S t a t
M 1 o r d e r
ng
ve
X
Funct i on
Gel 1 i ng C o n d i t i o n i n g Moi s t u r i z a t i o n C l a r i t y Shine UV Absorber C1 a r i t y Set Set Odor P r e s e r v a t i v e PH
_-__--_---
-----_-- M o i s t u r e
Compounding Procedure:
u n t i l u n i f o r m . S e p a r a t e l y combine i t e m s 4-12 and i t e m 15. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t o A c r i t a m e r m i x t u r e . Premix 13 & 14 f o r 10% TEA s o l u t i o n . Add t o m i x t u r e and a g i t a t e d u r i n g t h i c k e n i n g .
SOURCE: R . I . T , A . Corp . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Combine i t e m s 1 + 3 and m i x . Add i t e m 2 s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n
Ref . No. 118-142
240 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pump Spray Hair Detangler
H e a l t h y s h i n e d e t a n g l i n g sp ray based on c a t i o n i c s
I n q r e d i e n t s : %w/w F u n c t i o n 1 . Rita-CTAC (Cetr imonium C h l o r i d e ) 2 . 0 0 C a t i o n i c 2 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 8 8 . 5 0 -------- 3 . 4 .
5 . 6 . 7 . 8 . 9 . 10 .
Dimeth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l 8 88183) Supersat AWS-4 (PEG-20 Hydrogenated
G l y c e r i n e 13 99% Propylene G l y c o l R i t a p a n DL (Panthenol DL) S imchin R e f i n e d ( J o j o b a O i l ) G lydan t Fragrance - P e r t P l u s Type #189-724
Lanol i n )
1 .00 S l i o
1 .00 Feel 4.00 M o i s t u r e 2 . 0 0 Moi s t u r e 1 . O O H e a l t h 0 . 1 5 Shine 0 . 2 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e 0.15 Odor
Compounding Procedure: Heat water t o 87C and add i t e m 4 . M i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add
rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s except p r e s e r v a t i v e and perfume. Cool t o 46C and add i t ems 9 and 10.
Re f . No. 118-171
Hot Oil Treatment
Hot o i l t r e a t m e n t f o r deeo o e n e t r a t i o n o f t h e h a i r s h a f t . Rejuvenates h a i r t o i t s h e a l t h y s t a t e
I n a r e d i e n t s : 1 . M i n e r a l O i 1 65/70 2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l
L a c t y l a t e ) 3 . L a u r y l M y r i s t y l A l coho l 4 . Phenoxyethanol 5 . Shebu R e f i n e d (Shea B u t t e r ) 6. L a n o l i n - X - t r a Deodor ized ( L a n o l i n ) 7. F rag rance-F lo ra l #169-120 8 . G lydan t
Compounding Procedure: Combine i t e m s 1-6 and hea t t o 165F
Add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e . R e f . No. 118-119
%w/w F u n c t i o n 89.00 M o i s t u r e , Shine
5 . 0 0 S u b s t a n t i v e
i o n 2 . 0 0 Coup l i ng 1 . O O UV P r o t e c 0 . 5 0 Emol 1 i e n t 2 . 0 0 Repa i r 0 .30 Odor 0 . 2 0 P rese rva t
M ix and c o o l t o
ve
120F.
SOURCE: R.I.T.A, C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products 241
Ringing Gel
C l e a r r i n g i n g g e l w i t h m o i s t u r i z a t i o n f rom P a t i o n i c I S L and g e l s t r u c t u r e f rom Supersa t .
I n g r e d i e n t s : w/w F u n c t i o n 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 42.40 _ _ _ - - _ _ _ _ _ 2 . G l y c e r i n e 15.00 Feel 3 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 sus. 12.00 Coat 4 . R i t o l e t h 5 (O le th -5 ) 10.00 E m u l s i f i e r 5 . Supersat AWS 4 (Peg-20 Hydrogenated Lano l i n )17 .00 Gel 6 . P a t i o n i c ISL (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 1 . O O M i l d n e s s 7 . 2-Phenoxyethanol 2 .00 Sol u b i 1 i z e r 8. Germal l I 1 0 .40 P r e s e r v a t i ve 9 . Fragrance 0 . 2 0 Odor
Compounding Procedure: Heat i t e m s 1 and 2 t o 165F. Heat i t e m s 3-7 t o 165F. Add i t e m s
3-7 t o i t e m s 1 and 2 . M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Pour i n j a r s a t 135F. Re f . No. 118-160
Micro Emulsion Ringing Gel
Shebu WS r i n g i n g m i c r o emuls ion g e l . I d e a l f o r h a i r d r e s s i n g w i t h m i l d n e s s and s h i n e .
I n g r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 53.70 _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 2 . G l y c e r i n e 10.00 Feel 3 . M i n e r a l O i l , L i g h t 12.00 Sh ine 4 . R i t o l e t h 5 (O le th -5 ) 10.00 Emulsi f i e r 5. Supersat AWS 4 (PEG-20 Hydrogenated L a n o l i n ) 1 2 . 0 0 Ring\Gel 6 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodi um I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 1 . O O M i 1 dness 7 . Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) 1 . O O Shine 8 . G1 ydant (DMDM Hydanto i n ) 0 .20 P r e s e r v a t i v e 9 . Fragrance 0 .10 Odor
Compounding Procedure:
hea t t o 175F. Add t h i s t o t h e f i r s t phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . (Note: process may need an add-back o f 3-5% w a t e r ) . Cool t o 130F o r u n t i l t h i c k e n i n g occu rs . Add i t e m s 8 and 9 . Add back wa te r l o s s . F i l l a t t h i s tempera tu re i n t o j a r s and c o v e r .
Heat i t e m s 1,2 and 7 t o 175F. Combine i t e m s 3,4,5 and 6 and
R e f . N o . 118-162
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
242 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Salon Type Hair Conditioner
S t a t e o f t h e a r t p r o t e i n / p a n t h e n o l based h a i r c o n d i t i o n e r des igned f o r achievement o f s a l o n t y p e per formance. I n n r e d i e n t s : %w/w F u n c t i o n 1 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0 .85 Clean Feel 2 . Rita-STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 0.44 C o n d i t i o n e r 3 . Rita-CTAC (Cetr imonium C h l o r i d e ) 0 .48 C o n d i t i o n e r 4. C i t r i c A c i d I3 100% 0.09 pH C o n t r o l 5 . D imethy l Stearamine (Adogen MA-108) 0.13 C o n d i t i o n e r 6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 95.51 ______-- -_ 7 . Promois WK-HQ (HydroxyDropvl t r i m o n - _ . . -
i um Hydro1 yzed Kera t i n) 0 .05 Body 8 . R i t a l o e ZOOM ( A l o e Vera Ge l ) 0 . 0 5 Body 9. R i tapan DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 0 .05 Body 10 .Propy lene G l y c o l 0 .50 Clean Fee 11 .Hydroxyethy l C e l l u l o s e ( N a t r o s o l
250 HHR) I -00 V i s c o s i t y 12.Kathon CG 0 .03 P r e s e r v a t 13.Dow Corn ing 2-7224 0 .40 Combing 14.Dow Corn ing 344 F l u i d 0.17 Combing 15.Fragrance 0.25 Odor
ve
Compoundi ng Procedure: To 15% o f t o t a l water a t 65C add s e p a r a t e l y i tems 1-4.
Heat t o 70C, add i t e m 5 and mix 20 m i n . Add another 10% o f t h e water a t room tempera ture and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g 20 min. To remain ing 75% o f water add i tems 7,8 and 9 a t room temp- e r a t u r e . Add i t e m 10 and s l o w l y s i f t i n i t e m 11. A g i t a t e 15 m i n . w h i l e h e a t i n g b a t c h s l i g h t l y t o 35C. When b a t c h t h i c k e n s , i n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n f o r up t o 60 min. u n t i l u n i f o r m .
Ref . No. 116-181A
Salon Type Hair Conditioner
Salon t y p e h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g i s ach ieved w i t h t h e h e l p o f Shebu and an a l l - n a t u r a l c o n d i t i o n i n g agent .
I n a r e d i e n t s : 1 . R i t a c h o l 1000 ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 2. Shebu R e f i n e d (Shea B u t t e r ) 3 . R i t o l e t h - 1 0 (O le th -10) 4. Rita-CTAC (Cetr imonium C h l o r i d e ) 5. G l y c e r i n e 6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 7 . Fragrance - S i 1 k i e n c e Type #169-120 8 . Kathon CG
w 5.00 0 . 5 0 0 .50 2 .00 3.00
88.67 0 .30 0.03
F u n c t i o n Emu1 s i f i e r N a t u r a l Shine Appl i c a t i on C o n d i t i o n i n g M o i s t u r e
Odor P r e s e r v a t i v e
--------
Compounding Procedure: Combine i tems 1-4 and h e a t t o 70C. I n a s e p a r a t e beaker
combine i t e m s 5 and 6 and heat t o 75-80C. Add i tems 1-4 t o water m i x t u r e and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 40C and add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e .
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s Ref . No. 118-120
Hair Care Products 243
Silicone Hair Gel
S i l i c o n e based s e t t i n g g e l . H igh g l y c e r i n e a p p r o p r i a t e f o r c u r l a c t i v a t i o n . R i tapan D1 f o r humectancy.
I n n r e d i e n t s : 1 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 2 . Acr i tamer 940 (Carbomer 940) 3. G l y c e r i n e 4. Propy lene G l y c o l 5 . Dimeth icone Copolyo l 6 . R i tapan DL (Panthenol d l ) 7 . Laneto 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 8 . Fragrance 9. G1 ydant (DMDM Hydanto i n ) 1O.TEA @ 99%
3 81.10
0.80 10.00 5.00 1 . o o 0.80 0 . 5 0 0.10 0 . 2 0 0.80
F u n c t i o n
G e l l i n g C u r l Emol 1 i e n t Shine M o i s t u r e Shine Odor P r e s e r v a t i v e PH
__ -_______
Compounding Procedure:
Premix i tems 4,5,6 and 7 w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Premix i t e m s 8 and 9 i n t o i t e m 3. Combine i t e m 10 w i t h remain ing 10% o f t h e w a t e r . N e u t r a l i z e Acr i tamer s o l u t i o n . When complete add o t h e r premixes and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m .
Ref . No. 118-156
D isperse s l o w l y i t e m 2 i n t o 90% o f t h e water w i t h a g i t a t i o n .
Shebu Hair Setting Gel
Water based s e t t i n g g e l w i t h Shebu. The s e t t i n g agent i s p l a s t i c i z e d w i t h Supersat f o r s o f t e r h o l d .
I n a r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n
2. Acr i tamer 940 (Carbomer 940) 0.70 G e l l i n g 1 . D i s t i 1 led/Dei o n i zed Water 60.80 --__----__ 3. D i s t i 1 1 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 26.50 _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 4 . G l y c e r i n e 4.00 Moi s t u r e 5. Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) 3 .00 L u s t e r 6. Supersat AWS 4 (Peg 20-Hydrogenated L a n o l i n ) 1 . 0 0 P l a s t i c i z e r 7 . PVP K-30 2 . 0 0 Set 8. Ri tapan DL (Panthenol d l ) 0.20 Moi s t u r e 9. TEA @ 50% 1.40 pH 10,Fragrance 0 .20 Odor 11 . DMDM Hydanto in 0 . 2 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e
Compounding Procedure: S l o w l y d i s p e r s e Acr i tamer i n t o i t e m 1 . A g i t a t e u n t i l f u l l y
hydra ted . Combine i t e m s 3-9 u n t i l u n i f o r m ( s l i g h t h e a t i n g may be necessary ) . Add t h i s t o t h e Acr i tamer m i x t u r e , add i t e m s 10 and 11, and a g i t a t e u n t i l u n i f o r m .
SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Ref . No. 118-158
244 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Stiff Holding Hairspray
I nq r ed i e n t s : Amphomer AMP C r o t e i n AD Dow Corn ing 556 C i t r o f l e x 2 O c t y l D imethy l PABA SDA 40 Propel 1 a n t A-46
P r e p a r a t i o n : D i s s o l v e AMP i n t h e anhydrous a l c o h o l . Wh
P a r t s by Wei q h t 4.75 0.80 0.20 0 . 1 5 0 .20 0 . 0 5 6 .85
30.00
l e ma in ta n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add Amphomer t o t h e v o r t e x . Cont inue m i x i n g u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s complete. Add ba lance o f i n g r e d i e n t s . When c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d and homogeneous, f i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e Charge p r o p e l l a n t . P r e c i s i on Speci f i c a t i o n s :
A c t u a t o r : 21-8173 0.0201' MB Body: 07-3415 0.062" x 0 .020" VT
Stem Gasket: 05-0310 Buna D i p Tube: 09-3530 0 .060" S p r i n g : 06-6010 SS
Stem: 0.4-1230 0.020" CUP: 12-8700
Formula 5887-80-4
Mater i a1 s : V e r s a t y l - 4 2
DC-193 S i 1 i cone DC-556 S i 1 i cone G1 y c e r i ne C i t r o f 1 ex-2 Monamid 716 Sunarome OMC Fragrance Ethano l , Anhydrous P r o p e l l a n t A-46
AMP-95
Aerosol Shaping Hairspray
Parts/Wei a h t 3 .75 0 . 9 6 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.20 0.05 Q.S
64.64 30.00
Va lve : P r e c i s i o n .018" stem ,018 x .013" body .0181' FT A c t u a t o r
Spray Rate: 0 .56 g/sec P r e p a r a t i o n :
Add a l c o h o l t o t h e t a n k . W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add V e r s a t y l - 4 2 t o t h e v o r t e x . Add AMP-95 and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s complete. Add remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s o f t h e c o n c e n t r a t e . When c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d and homogeneous, f i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e t o t h e can. Charge p r o p e l l a n t . Formula 6258-07
SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co.: Suggested Formula t ions
Hair Care Products 245
Styling/Conditioning Mousse
I n g r e d i e n t s : A F o r e s t a l l
B r i j 721 Dow Corn ing 929 Emulsion Water, d e i o n i zed
B G a f f i x VC-713 SD Alcoho l 40
C Hydrocarbon P r o p e l l a n t A-46 Procedure:
Heat (A) t o 60C w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o Add (A) t o ( E ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Pack i n s u i t a b l e ae roso l c o n t a i n e r s and p r e s s u r i z e w i t h (C) a t room tempera tu re .
Formula PC 8216
%w/w 1 . 4 0 0.50 0 . 1 0
7 8 - 0 0 5.00
1 0 . 0 0 5 .00
40C.
Clear Gel Grooming Agent & ConditionerL?
I n g r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l , Marcol 70
B r i j 97 A r l a t o n e G A t l a s G-3570 Propylene g l y c o l Sorbo
E Water, d e i o n i zed Procedure:
Heat ( A ) t o 9OC and ( E ) t o 95C. Add ( 8 ) s t i r r i n g . Remove f rom hea t and c o n t i n u e t o c o o l s . When t h e m i x t u r e t u r n s c l e a r (abou t o r j a r s .
Y U 14.10 15.50 15.50
0 . 1 0 8 .60 6.90
39.30
t o (A) w i t h moderate s t i r as t h e m i x t u r e 65C) pour i n t o tubes
Hair Straightening Cream
I na r ed i e n t s : A G l y c e r o l monostearate
B r i j 35 S t e a r y l a l c o h o l M i n e r a l o i l
Water * P r e s e r v a t i v e
C Sodium h y d r o x i d e Water
D *Perfume * q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat (A) t o 60C and ( E ) t o 62C. Add (B) t o (A) w i t h c o n s t a n t
a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c o o l . Add (C) . M i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add (D). Formula HC-17
B Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e
%w/w 20.00
2 .00 5 . 0 0 5 .00 1 . o o
40.00
3 .50 23.50
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
246 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Styling MousseX22176-106 (Hydroalcoholic)
Concent ra te : D i s t i l l e d water q . s . * t o 100 Eastman AQ 55s polymer 8 . 0 Myvatex T e x t u r e L i t e e m u l s i f i e r 2 .0 Monamid 150 ADD 1 . o Myvatex 60 e m u l s i f i e r 0 . 3 SDA-40C a l c o h o l 2 0 . 0 Fragrance q. s . * C i t r i c a c i d q . s . *
Procedure: 1 . Heat Eastman AQ 55s and water t o 80-85C w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l
2 . Cool t o room tempera ture . 3 . S l o w l y add Myvatex Tex ture L i t e w i t h high-speed a g i t a t i o n .
4 . When u n i f o r m , add Myvatex 60 and Monamid 150 ADD. 5 . S l o w l y add SDA-40C a l c o h o l . 6 . Add f r a g r a n c e . 7. A d j u s t pH t o 6:5-7.0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 8. Aerosol f i n a l c o n c e n t r a t e a t 5.23 g/mL o f A46 p r o p e l l a n t
( A e r o p r e s s ) .
*q. s . = q u a n t i t y s u f f i c i e n t
t h e polymer i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d i n t h e w a t e r .
Care shou ld be taken when m i x i n g t o a v o i d a e r a t i o n .
Styling MousseX22176-107 (Alcohol-Free)
Concent ra te : w D i s t i 1 l e d water q . s . * t o 100 Eastman AQ 55s polymer 8 .0 Myvatex T e x t u r e L i t e emu1 s i f i e r 5 . 5 Monamid 150 ADD 1 . 0 Myvatex 60 e m u l s i f i e r 0 . 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . * Fragrance q . s . * C i t r i c a c i d q . s . *
Procedure: 1 . Heat Eastman AQ 55s and water t o 80-85C w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l t h e
2 . Cool t o room tempera ture and add p r e s e r v a t i v e . 3 . S l o w l y add Myvatex Tex ture L i t e w i t h high-speed a g i t a t i o n .
4. When u n i f o r m , add Myvatex 60 and Monamid 150 ADD. 5. Add f r a g r a n c e . 6 . A d j u s t pH t o 6.5-7.0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 7 . Aerosol f i n a l c o n c e n t r a t e a t 5 .23 g/mL o f A46 p r o p e l l a n t
(Aeropress) .
SOURCE: Eastman Chemical Co. : Suggested Formula t ions
* q . s . = q u a n t i t y s u f f i c i e n t
po lymer i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d i n t h e w a t e r .
Care shou ld be t a k e n when m i x i n g t o a v o i d a e r a t i o n .
Hair Care Products 247
Water-Based Hair Spray X21980-057 (Pump)
Phase A : D i s t i l l e d water Eastman AQ 55s polymer
Phase 0: Germal l I 1 d i a z o l i d i n y l u rea Methy lparaben
Phase C : L u v i s k o l VA 73W PVP/VA copolymer--50% s o l i d s
Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A t o 85C. 2. With m i x i n g , h o l d a t 80-85C f o r 15 m i n u t e s . 3 . Cool t o 60C, add Phase 6 , and mix u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . 4. Cool t o 40C and add Phase C . 5 . Add water l o s t d u r i n g h e a t i n g . 6 . M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m ; f i l t e r and package.
pH: 6 .0+-1 .0
Water-Based Hair Spray X21980-058 (Aerosol)
Phase A : D i s t i l l e d water Eastman AQ 38s polymer
Phase 0: Germal l I 1 d i azo1 i d i n y l urea Methy lparaben
Phase C : L u v i s k o l VA 73W PVP/VA copolymer--50% s o l i d s
Phase D: Dymel A d i m e t h y l e t h e r
%X 90.4
5 . 0
0 .3 0 . 3
4 . 0
rn 60.4
5 .0
0 . 3 0 . 3
4.0
30 .0
Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A t o 85C. 2 . When m i x i n g , h o l d a t 80-85C f o r 15 minu tes . 3 . Cool t o 60C, add Phase B, and mix u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . 4. Cool t o 40C and add Phase C . 5 . Add water l o s t d u r i n g h e a t i n g . 6. Add phase D a t room tempera ture . 7 . M ix u n t i l un i fo rm; f i l t e r and package. 8. A g i t a t e aeroso l c o n t a i n e r t o ensure s o l u t i o n o f p r o p e l l a n t .
SOURCE: Eastman Chemical Co,: Suggested Formula t ions
pH: 6.0+-1.0
248 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Wheat Germ Foaming Conditioner
Wei a h t .% Mackam 35 (Cocamidopropyl Be ta ine ( V i a G l y c e r i d e ) 1 0 . 0 Mackal ene 11 6 (Cocami dopropy l D imethy l ami ne L a c t a t e ) 8 . 0 Mackalene 716 (Wheat Germamidopropyl Dimethylami ne
L a c t a t e) 1 . o N a t r o s o l 250 HHR 0 . 7 Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0
Procedure: 1 . Comple te ly h y d r a t e N a t r o s o l . 2 . Add f i r s t t h r e e components and hea t t o 40 degrees C . 3 . B lend u n t i l c l e a r . 4 . Add rema in ing components and c o o l .
Natural Lipid Styling Mousse
Wei a h t , % PVP/VA E335 4.5 SDA Alcoho l 21 .5 Mackpro NLP (Quatern i um-79 Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n )
( N a t u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 4 . 0 De ion ized Water, F ragrance, Dye qs t o 100.0
Procedure: 1 . Combine components and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 2. P r e s s u r i ze w i t h s u i t a b l e p r o p e l 1 a n t
Pump Type Hair Spray
Resyn 26-1 31 4 Wei g h t , %
6 . 0 Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n )
De ion ized Water 7 . 6 ( N a t u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 1 . o
E thano l , F ragrance qs t o 100.0
Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e Resyn 26-1314 i n a l c o h o l . 2. Add rema in ing components and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary
Hair Care Products 249
55% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray
I n g r e d i e n t s : L o v o c r y l 47 AMP De ion i zed Water Anhydrous Ethano l , SDA-40 Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e DME
Cloud P o i n t : <-35C
Va lve : Seaqu is t Va lve NS-34 Stem: 0 .01 3" Gasket : B Cup: Regu
Code S p r i n g : 0 Body: Cap Vapor Tap D i p Tube: A c t u a t o r :
P a r t s by Wei q h t 8 . 0 0 1 .38
35.62 22.00
q.s. 9 , s .
33.00
t y l 0 .042" T H K . Code: 501 a r , Epoxy t o p , Laminate Bottom, Dimpled,
1610 020" ss 1 l a r y 0 . 0 13"
0.040' ' Excel 200 M i s t y 0.016" M i s t y
P r e p a r a t i on :
a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n L o v o c r y l 47. M i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . F i l t e r and f i l l , t h e n charge w i t h p r o p e l l a n t . Formula 7625:638
D i s s o l v e AMP i n water and e t h a n o l . Whi l e m a i n t a i n i n g good
80% VOC Non-Aerosol Hair Spray
T h i s 80% VOC non-aerosol h a i r spray has a n a t u r a l f e e l and e x c e l l e n t d r y i n g t i m e w i t h a f i n e , m i s t y spray .
I n g r e d i e n t s : Lovocry l -47 NaOH DC 193 d l -Pantheno l C i t r o f l e x - 2 D e i o n i z e d Water Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40
P a r t s by Wei q h t 5 . 0 0 0 .40 0 . 3 0 0 . 2 1 0.20
13 .89 8 0 . 0 0
Va lve S p e c i f i c a t i o n : Calmar Mark I 1
P r e p a r a t i o n : D i s s o l v e NaOH i n water and e thano l . Whi l e mai n t a i n i ng good
a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n L o v o c r y l - 4 7 . When s o l u t i o n i s comple te , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and mix w e l l u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l . Formula 7577-65
SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical C o . : Suggested Formulas
A c t u a t o r : WTS Head
250 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
80% VOC Hair Spray
I n g r e d i e n t s : Amp homer AMP C i t r o f 1 ex-2 Monamid 716 G1 y c e r i ne d l Panthenol Sol u l an-75 Neo-Hel iopan AV Anhydrous Ethano l , Prope l 1 a n t 152A N-butane
SDA-40
P a r t s bv Weight 5.00 0 .82 0.30 0 .20 0.10 0.10 0 .10 0 . 0 5
55.00 13.33 25.00
Valve S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : P r e c i s i o n Valve Corp. Stem: 04-1215 .016" D i p Tube: 09-2010 Stem Gasket : 05-0350 B u t y l A c t u a t o r S t y l e : 21-8146 Kosmos S p r i n g : 06-6010 SS O r i f i c e S i z e : ,025" MB Concave Body: 07-7970 .016" LD Mount ing Cup: 32-7300-62 F l a t , Epon
T/B Dimpled F u l l Bond P r e p a r a t i o n :
s l o w l y s i f t i n Amphomer. When s o l u t i o n i s complete, add remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s and mix u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r , f i l l and charge w i t h p r o p e l l a n t s . Formula 7924:28
D i s s o l v e AMP i n e t h a n o l . W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n ,
55% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray
I n g r e d i en t s ; Lovocry l AMP R h o d o r s i l O i l s 70041 V O .65
SDA-40 D I Water Anhydrous Ethano l , Prope l 1 a n t DME
V a l v i ng Speci f i c a t Seaqu is t NS 34 Stem O r i f i c e : 0 Gasket: B u t y l 0 .
on8 :
P a r t s b v Weight 5.00 0.89 1 .oo
38.11 22.00 33.00
01 3" 042" Thk.Code: 501
Cup: Regular , Epoxy Top, Laminate Bottom, Dimpled, Code: 1610 S p r i n g : 0.020" SS Vapor Tap: 0.013" Tubing I D : 0.040" A c t u a t o r : Excel 1 200 M i s ty /O. 106" M i s t y
D i s s o l v e AMP i n e thano l and water . Whi le m a i n t a i n i n g good P r e p a r a t i o n :
a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n L o v o c r y l . When s o l u t i o n i s complete, add R h o d o r s i l O i l s 70041 VO .65 and mix u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l - c h a r g e can w i t h p r o p e l l a n t . Formula 7746-137 SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co I : Suggested Formulas
Hair Care Products 251
80% VOC Hair Spray
Resyn 28-2930 Amphomer LV-71 AMP C i t r o f l e x - 2 Monamid 716 G l y c e r i n e Panthenol Sol u l an-75 Neo-He1 i opan AV Anhydrous Ethano l , SDA-40 Prope l 1 a n t 152A N-butane Fragrance
Cloud P o i n t : <-35C
3.00 0.81 0.44 0.30 0.20 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.05
55.00 14.90 25 .00
g . s .
Valve: P r e c i s i o n Va lve Corp. Stem: 04-121 5 . 01 6" Stem Gasket: 05-0350 B u t y l
Body: 07-7970 .016" LD Mount ing Cup: 32-7300-62/F lat , Epon T/B Dimpled F u l l Bond D i p Tube: 09-2010 A c t u a t o r S t y l e : 21-8146 Kosmos O r i f i c e S i z e : .025" ME3 Concave
S p r i n g : 06-6010 ss
Formul a 7318-93
High Humidity Hair Spray
I n g r e d i e n t s : Resyn 28-2913 AMP C r o t e i n AD Anhydrous
Fragrance Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40 Propel 1 a n t A-46
DC- 1 90
P a r t s by Wei s h t 2.50 0.24 0.20 0.20
71 .86 25.00
Q . S .
Valve: P r e c i s i o n Stem: 0.018" (#04-1220) Stem Gasket: Buna (#OS-0310) S p r i n g : SS (#06-6010)
Mount ing Cup: F l a t , Epon Top/Bottom, Dimpled (#12-7100) A c t u a t o r : 0.018'' FT (#01-1836)
D i s s o l v e AMP i n anhydrous e t h a n o l , SDA-40. S l o w l y add Resyn
Body: 0.018" x 0.013" VT (#07-0131)
P r e p a r a t i o n :
28-2913 t o t h e s o l u t i o n w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n . Add remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s and mix u n t i 1 homogeneous. F i 1 t e r and fi 11 c o n c e n t r a t e . Charge p r o p e l l a n t .
Formula 6472:103
SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Corp. : Suggested Formulas
252 Cosmetic and Toiletv Formulations
80% VOC Aerosol Shaper Hair SprayI n a r e d i e n t s : P a r t s by Wei s h t Amphomer LV-71 3.50 AMP Regular 0.60 Armeen DM 18D 0.25 C i t r o f 1 e x - 2 0.20 Monamid 716 0.20 S o l u l a n 75 0.10 Neo He l iopan AV 0.05 V a r i o n C ADG LS 0.20 Dei o n i zed Water 14.90 Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40 50.00 N-butane 11 .oo DM E 19.00 Va lve S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : P r e c i s i o n Valve
Stem: 0.016'' (04-1215) Stem Gasket: B u t y l (05-0350) S p r i n g : SS (06-6010)
Mount ing Cup: F l a t , Epon T/B Dimpled F u l l Bond A c t u a t o r : Kosmos MB Concave 0.025'' (21-8146)
D i s s o l v e AMP Regular and Armeen DM 1ED i n water and e t h a n o l .
Body: 0.016'' LD (07-7970)
P r e p a r a t i on :
W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n Amphomer LV-71. When s o l u t i o n i s complete, add remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s and mix w e l l u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l .
Formul a 8002 : 183
High Solids 80% VOC Hair SprayI n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t s by Weight L o v o c r y l 47 10.00 AMP 1.73 C i t r o f 1 ex-2 0.20 Monamid 716 0.15 G1 y c e r i ne 0.10 Panthenol 0 .10 Dei o n i zed Water 7 .72 Anhydrous Ethano l , SDA-40 50. 00 N-butane 12.00 DME 18.00 Fragrance q . s .
Valve: P r e c i s i o n Va lve Corp. Cloud P o i n t : (-35C
Stem: 04-1215 0.016" Gasket: 05-0350 B u t y l
Cup: 32-7300-62 F l a t , Epon T/B, Dimpled, F u l l Bond Vapor Tap: None D i p Tube: 09-2010 0.122" A c t u a t o r : 0 .01 6" MB Concave D e l t a
S p r i n g : 06-6010 SS Body: 07-7970 0.016" LD
P r e p a r a t i o n :
a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n L o v o c r y l 47. When d i s s o l v e d , add remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s and mix u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i 11 , t h e n charge w i t h p r o p e l 1 a n t s .
SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co.: Suggested Formulas
D i s s o l ve AMP i n water and e thano l . W h i 1 e mai n t a i n i ng good
Formula 7625:95
254 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
After Exercise Body Lotion
T h i s r e f r e s h i n g l o t i o n i s an e x c e l l e n t c a r r i e r f o r f r a g r a n c e s and w i l l p r o v i d e m o i s t u r i z i n g a l o n g w i t h a s k i n smoothing e f f e c t .
P a r t I: Water Carbomer 940 T r i e thano l ami ne (99%) P a r t 11: Water Phosphol i p i d SV SD3A A l c o h o l P a r t 111: Phenyl Dimeth icone T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (Cosmetic Whi te )
% bv Weiaht
51 - 6 5 0.25 0 . 4 0
30.00 1 . o o
15.00
1.50 0.20
Procedure:
t h e Carbomer 940 i s d i s s o l v e d , add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r , m i x water w i t h P h o s p h o l i p i d SV and heat t o 65C w i t h m i x i n g . When d i s s o l v e d , c o o l t o 30-35C t h e n add SD3A a l c o h o l I Blend P a r t I 1 t o I m i x i n g we1 1, and p a r t I 1 1 as a s l u r r y and b l e n d t o g e t h e r u n t i l a u n i f o r m w h i t e l o t i o n i s o b t a i n e d . Add c o l o r , f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d and package.
S l o w l y add Carbomer 940 t o water w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . A f t e r
Therapeutic Humectant Lotion
P a r t A : Phosphol i p i d SV G1 y c e r i n T i 02 Water Methy l Paraben P a r t B: S teare th-2 Hexyl L a u r a t e C12-Cl5 A lcoho l Benzoates Dimeth icone and T r i m e t h y l s i l o x y s i l i c a t e Propy l Paraben
% bv Weiaht
1 . 7 15.0 0 . 5
7 2 . 6 0 . 2
3 . 3 3 . 0 2 . 0 1 . 5 0 .2
Procedure: Combine phases A and B s e p a r a t e l y w i t h h e a t i n g t o 65C.
Homogenize B i n t o A f o r a s u f f i c i e n t t i m e t o ensure good e m u l s i f i c a t i o n . S t i r c o o l t o 45C, add f ragrance, and package. Comment 8 :
T h i s smooth p o u r a b l e l o t i o n p r o v i d e s i n s t a n t r e l i e f o f d r y , chapped s k i n and p r o v i d e s a generous amount o f e m o l l i e n t s and g l y c e r i n . The use of Phosphol i p i d SV e l i m i n a t e s any g r e a s i ness and l e a v e s t h e s k i n w i t h an e l e g a n t a f t e r f e e l . SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions 255
Alcoholic Milk Lotion
(0) S t e a r i c A c i d C e t y l A lcoho l I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e G l y c e r y l Monostearate ( S e l f Emu1 s i f y i ng Type) Po lyoxyethy lene (20) C e t y l E t h e r Methy l Paraben
(W) A j idew N-50 Propy l ene G1 y c o l Water
(E) E t h y l A lcoho l
Procedure: 1 . Heat (0 ) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Cool t o 50C w i t h s t i r r i n g and add ( E ) . 4 . F i n i s h m i x i n g a t 35-40C.
pH: 5 .1 V i s c o s i t y : 270 cps
Milk Lotion
(0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C) C e t y l A lcoho l S o r b i t a n Monostearate Po lyoxyethy lene (20) S o r b i t a n Monooleate Tocopherol A c e t a t e
( W ) Aj idew T-50 Water P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o (0) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Cool t o 42C w i t h s t i r r i n g .
pH: 6 . 2 V i s c o s i t y : 25,000 cps
SOURCE: A j inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions
2 . 0 1 . o 2 . 0 1 . 1 1 . 9 q . s .
3 . 0 5 . 0
74.0
10.0
31 .6 4.5 4 . 5 1 . 8 2 . 8 0 .2
4.0 50.5 0 .1
256 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion
R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a h i g h l y absorbent l o t i o n t h a t can be d ispensed f r o m a f l e x i b l e t u b e o r s o f t b o t t l e . The a lpha hydroxy a c i d (AHA) c o n t a i n e d i n t h i s f o r m u l a i s b u f f e r e d l a c t i c a c i d w i t h a use l e v e l o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 10%. The f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s a c a t i o n i c and n o n i o n i c e m u l s i f i c a t i o n system c o n s i s t i n g o f Lexemul 561, Lexemul AR and Lexamine 5-13. The c a t i o n i c Lexa- mine S-13 enhances t h e s u b s t a n t i v i t y o f t h e f o r m u l a t i o n and may a c t as an a u x i l i a r y AHA b u f f e r . The p r o d u c t produces min- ima l w h i t e n i n g d u r i n g rub-out . A . De ion ized Water
G l y c e r i n USP (99.7%) Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 2 ,4 -D ich lo robenzy l A l c o h o l (Myacide SP) L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%)
67.42 3.00 0.20 0.20 0.60
B. G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 3.00 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) S tearamidoethy l D i e t h y l ami ne
(Lexemul AR) 1 .25 Stearami dopropy l Dimethy l ami ne (Lexami ne 5-13) 0.50 C e t y l A l c o h o l (Ado1 52) 0.50 Capry l i c/Capr i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Lexo l GT-865) 8.00 I s o b u t y l S t e a r a t e (Lexo l BS) 1 .oo Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .10
C . L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%) Sodium L a c t a t e (Purasa l S/SP 60%)
5.90 8 .33
Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A" . Begin h e a t i n g t o 75-80C. 2. Combine s e c t i o n "B". Heat t o 80-85C w i t h c o n s t a n t s low
a g i t a t i o n . 3. When s e c t i o n s "A" and "B" a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g -
na ted tempera tures , s l o w l y add "B" t o "A" . Mix w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n f o r 5 minu tes t h e n b e g i n c o o l i n g .
4. Reduce m i x i n g speed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g . 5 . A t 40-5OC, add s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t i o n s "AB".
ch i s homogeneous and a t 35-40C a d j u s t f o r water 6. When t h e ba
7. M i x t o 30C. 8 . A d j u s t f i n a
L a c t a t e , as
l o s s .
SOURCE: I n o l e x
pH t o 3.50-3.75 w i t h L a c t i c A c i d o r Sodium r e q u i r e d .
Chemical Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n 398-156-1
Lotions 257
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion
R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a l o t i o n t h a t c o u l d be d ispensed f rom a f l e x i b l e t u b e o r f l e x i b l e b o t t l e . The a lpha hydroxy a c i d (AHA) c o n t a i n e d i n t h i s fo rmula i s b u f f e r e d l a c t i c a c i d w i t h a use l e v e l o f approx imate ly 10%. T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s a c a t i o n i c and n o n i o n i c e m u l s i f i c a t i o n system c o n s i s t i n g o f Lexemul 561 and Lexamine S-13. The c a t i o n i c Lexamine S-13 enhances t h e s u b s t a n t i v i t y o f t h e f o r m u l a t i o n and may a c t as an a u x i l i a r y AHA b u f f e r . The p r o d u c t produces min imal w h i t e n i n g d u r i n g r u b - o u t .
A . De ion ized Water G1 y c e r i n USP (99.7%) H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( C e l l o s i z e PP-4400-H)
6. Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 2 ,4 -D ich lo robenzy l A lcoho l (Myacide SP) L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%)
68.50 3 .00 1 - 0 0
0 . 2 0 0.20 0 .60
C. G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 2 .00 Stearami dopropy l Dimethy l ami ne (Lexami ne S-13) 1 .oo C e t y l A l c o h o l (Ado1 52) 0 . 5 0 Capry l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Lexo l GT-865) 7.00 I s o b u t y l S t e a r a t e (Lexo l BS) 2.00 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .10
D. L a c t i c A c i d (88%) Sodium L a c t a t e (Purasa l S/SP 60%)
5 .90 8 . 0 0
Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n " A " . Begin h e a t i n g t o 75-80C. S i f t Hydrox-
y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t o v o r t e x i n g w a t e r . 2 . When s e c t i o n "A" i s homogeneous, add s e c t i o n "6" t o s e c t i o n
"A" . Cont inue a g i t a t i o n . Cont inue h e a t i n g t o 75-80C. 3 . Combine s e c t i o n "C". Heat t o 80-85C w i t h c o n s t a n t s low
a g i t a t i o n . 4. When s e c t i o n s "AB" & ' IC" a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g -
na ted temperatures, s l o w l y add "C" t o "AB'q. M ix w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n f o r 5 minutes t h e n b e g i n c o o l i n g .
5 . Reduce m i x i n g speed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g . 6 . A t 40-50C, add s e c t i o n "D" t o s e c t i o n s "ABC".
a d j u s t f o r 7. When t h e b a t c h i s homogeneous and a t 35-40C water l o s s .
8 . M ix t o 30C. 9 . A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 3.50-3.75 w i t h L a c t i c Ac
L a c t a t e , as r e q u i r e d . d o r Sodium
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co. : Formula 398-157-2
258 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Banana Hand Lotion
Water Carbomer 934
Avocado O i l Rosswax 573 Coconut O i l #76 Ross Jo joba O i l TEA Germaben I 1 Fragrance GK-17
GMS-SE
P a r t s by Wei q h t 568. Ogr
2 . 0 g r 4 . Ogr
16 .0gr 4 . Q g r
16 .0gr 4 .0gr 4 . Ogr 6 . 0 g r q . s .
Procedure: Heat t h e water t o 60C under a g i t a t i o n and s l o w l y add t h e
Carbomer 934. When t h e water i s f u l l y mixed add t h e 573, GMS, Avocado O i l , Coconut O i l and Jo joba O i l t h a t have been heated t o 65C i n separa te k e t t l e . As soon as t h e O i l Phase has been mixed w e l l , add t h e Germaben I 1 and t h e n t h e TEA under h i g h a g i t a t i o n , then t h e f ragrance. Cool t o 55C f o r f i l l i n g .
O/W Lotion
Phase 1 : Ross Wax 63-0412 Ross Wax 1641 Minera l Wax #9 Ross Wax 63-0212 Amerchol L-1 01 Ross Jo joba O i 1 GMS SE
Phase 2 : T r i e thano l ami ne Propy l ene G1 y c o l Water P r e s e r v a t i v e Germaben I 1
Novarome DE-47 Fragrance
Procedure: I n separa te k e t t l e s b r i n g Phase ( 1 ) and ( 2 ) t o 170F.
temperature i s reached add Phase (1 ) t o (2 ) w i t h a g i t a t Cool t o 120F and package.
SOURCE: Frank B . R o s s C o . , I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions
!% 1 . 6 1 . o 2.1 1 . o 5 . 2 2.1 2.1
1 . o 4.7
78.2 1 . o
q . s .
When on.
Lotions 259
Behenyl Hand Lotion
Crodac id 8, t h a t p r o v i d e g r e a t s t a b i l i t y ( 1 month a t 50C). Croda- mol PMP h e l p s t o f o r m u l a t e a n o n - o i l y l o t i o n w i t h smooth r u b i n .
T h i s l o t i o n f e a t u r e s t h e comb ina t ion o f I nc romine BB and
I n a r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Inc romine BB (Behenami dopropy l D imethy l ami ne) Crodac id B (Behenic Ac id ) Crodamol PMP (PPG-2 M y r i s t y l E the r P rop iona te ) Dimethicone P a r t B: De ion ized Water P a r t C: Propy lene G l y c o l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea Methy l Paraben (and) Propy l Paraben
- %
3.0 2.5
20.0 3 .0
70.5
and) 1 . o
Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h mix ng and hea t t o 85-9OC.
Heat P a r t B t o 85-QOC. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 45C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l tempera- t u r e .
N . A . T . C . Approved Formula SC-215
Velvet 44-Behenyl Lotion
T h i s l o t i o n f e a t u r e s a un ique combina t ion o f e m u l s i f i e r s ( Inc romine BB and Crodac id 8) t h a t p r o v i d e g r e a t s t a b i l i t y ( 3 months 13 50C) and leave a s o f t v e l v e t y f e e l on t h e s k i n . Crodamol PMP h e l p s reduce t h e o i l i n e s s o f t h e m i n e r a l o i l and promotes a smooth r u b i n .
I n o r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Incromi ne BB (Behenami dopropy l D imethy l ami ne) Crodac id B (Behenic Ac id ) M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) Crodamol PMP (PPG-2 M y r i s t y l E the r P rop iona te S i l i c o n e F l u i d (200 cps) DC 200 P a r t 8 : Dei o n i zed water P a r t C : Germaben I 1
%
3.00 2.50
15.00 10 .00
1 .oo 67.50
1 .oo
-
Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and hea t t o 85-9OC.
Heat P a r t 0 t o 85-9OC. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and coo l t o 40C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and cool t o d e s i r e d f i l l tempera- t u r e .
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t l ons
N.A.T.C. Approved Formula SC-213
260 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Body Lotion I n g r e d i e n t s : Phase A : Pol y g l y c e r y l - 3 Methy l G1 ucose D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care 450) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s (Tegoso f t CT) O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t O S ) Phase 8 : G l y c e r i n Water Phase C : M i n e r a l O i l Carbomer 941 Phase D : Sodium Hydrox ide (10% s o l u t i o n ) Phase E : Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e s Procedure: 1 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o 80C. 2 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase 8 t o 80C. 3 . Add A t o B o r B t o A w i t h o u t s t i r r i n g . 4 . S t i r .
36w/w
2 .0 6 . 5 5 .7
3 .0 8 1 . 4
0 .8 0 . 2
0 . 4
Q . S . Q . S .
5 . D ispe rse Carbomer i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r add t o A/B. Homogenize. 6 . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . 7 . Add Phase D / E . S t i r . 8 . M i x u n t i 1 v i s c o s i t y i s c o r r e c t ,
Emollient Lotion O/W Cold Process
I n a r e d i e n t s : Phase A : PEG-25 G1 y c e r y l T r i o l e a t e (Tagat TO) 0 . 5
M i n e r a l O i l 4 . 0 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegoso f t P) 3 .0
P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( I s o l a n G I 34) 1 . 5
C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s (Tegoso f t CT) 2 . 0 Dimeth icone ( A b i l 350) 0 . 2 Phase B : Water 8 3 . 6 G1 y c e r i n 3 . 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e Q . S . Phase C : Carbomer 934 0 .3 M i n e r a l O i l 1 . 2 Phase D : NaOH (10% S o l u t i o n ) 0 . 7 Procedure: 1 . Homogenize A + B, o i l p a r t i c l e s i z e t l . 0 urn. 2 . Add C and D, s t i r i n t e n s i v e l y f o r 30 m inu tes . Temperature
o f t h e phases A , B, C, D : a r e 2 0 - 2 5 C
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Co. : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Lotions 261
Body Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s : Isohexadecane M i n e r a l o i l I s o s t e a r i c a c i d Ar lamol E Cyc lometh icone
Xanthan gum
Water Sorbo, s o r b i t o 1 s o l u t i on A r l a t o n e 2121
*Preserva t i ve
*Perfume
*q . s a t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
%w/w 9 . 0 0 5 .OO 3 .00 2.00 1 . o o
0 .10
73.90 2 .00 4 . 0 0
Procedure:
( C ) a t 75C w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . Add (A) w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r - r i n g or homogenizat ion. Add (D) and ( E ) upon c o o l i n g .
Heat ( C ) t o 8OC w i t h occas iona l v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . Add ( B ) t o
Moisturizing Hand Lotion
I n a r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l
CR-15 a l c o h o l s benzoate Jo joba o i 1
B Xanthan gum
C Water Propy lene g l y c o l A r l a t o n e 2121
D * P r e s e r v a t i v e
E *Perfume
* q . s these i n g r e d i e n t s .
8 . 0 0 7.00 5 .00
0 . 1 0
70.90 4.00 5.00
Procedure:
(C) a t 75C w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . Add (A) w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r - r i n g o r homogenizat ion. Add ( D ) and ( E ) upon c o o l i n g .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat ( C ) t o 8OC w i t h occas iona l v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . Add ( B ) t o
262 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Concentrated Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion
R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a p o u r a b l e l o t i o n t h a t c o u l d be d ispensed f rom a g l a s s o r r i g i d p l a s t i c b o t t l e . The f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s a b u f f e r e d a lpha hydroxy a c i d (AHA), L a c t i c A c i d , a t a use l e v e l o f approx imate ly 15%. The fo rmula u t i l i z e s a c a t i o n i c and n o n i o n i c e m u l s i f i c a t i o n system c o n s i s t i n g o f Lexquat AMG-IS and Lexemul 561. I n a d d i t i o n t o f u n c t i o n i n g as t h e p r i m a r y e m u l s i f i e r , Lexquat AMG-IS, a l s o enhances s k i n s u b s t a n t i v i t y . T h i s form- u l a t i o n o f f e r s a h i g h l e v e l o f a c t i v i t y i n a b u f f e r e d form.
A .
B . C.
D .
E .
w Dei o n i zed Water 52 I 30 Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 0 .20 2 ,4 -D ich lo robenzy l A lcoho l (Myacide SP) 0 .20 Propylene G l y c o l USP 2.70 L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%) 0.50 H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( C e l l o s i z e QP-15,OOOH) 0.50 Isos tearami dopropy l PG-Di moni um C h l o r i d e (Lexquat AMG-IS) 10.10
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 1.75 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul
561 ) 3.40 Propylene G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e (Lexo l PG-865) 2.50 C e t y l A lcoho l (Ado1 52) 0 .80 Jo joba O i l (Golden Jo joba O i l ) 2 .50 M y r i s t y 1 M y r i s t a t e (Ceraphyl 424) 0 .85 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0.10 L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%) 7.25 Sodium L a c t a t e (Purasa l S/SP 60%) 14.35
Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A" h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. Use p r o p e l l e r mixer
f o r a g i t a t i o n . 2. S p r i n k l e s e c t i o n ' t B v t i n t o s e c t i o n ' lA". I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed
t o c r e a t e a v o r t e x d u r i n g a d d i t i o n , t h e n s low t o h i g h e s t speed which does n o t produce a v o r t e x .
3 . When s e c t i o n s "A" and rtB1' a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g - na ted tempera tures add s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t i o n s "AB".
4. Combine s e c t i o n I'D". Heat t o 80-85C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s s low m i x i n g .
5. When s e c t i o n s "A8C" and s e c t i o n "DI' a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g i n a t e d temperatures, s l o w l y pour s e c t i o n "D" i n t o S e c t i o n s lfABCtl. I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed t o a h i g h speed. M a i n t a i n a t 80-85C f o r 5 minu tes , t h e n b e g i n c o o l i n g . Slow m i x i n g speed t o h i g h e s t speed p o s s i b l e t h a t w i l l n o t cause v o r t e x i ng.
m i x i n g and c o o l i n g . 6 . Add s e c t i o n "E" t o s e c t i o n s "ABCD" a t 60-65C. Cont inue
7 . A t 40-45C a d j u s t f o r water l o s s . 8. M i x b a t c h u n t i l i t reaches room tempera ture . 9 . A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 3.60-3.80 w i t h L a c t i c A c i d o r Sodium
L a c t a t e , as r e q u i r e d . Phys ica l P r o p e r t i e s :
V i s c o s i t y : 2400 cPs @ 24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, TA @ 10 rpm) pH: 3.7 @ 24C
SOURCE: Inolex Chemical Co.: F o r m u l a t i o n 398-99-2
Lotions 263
Deep Skin Cleansing Lotion
M a t e r i a l s : % bv Weight 1 . M i n e r a l O i l SUS 65/75 5 0 . 0 2. Amerchol L-101 3 .0 3 . Cerasynt PA 3 .0 4. Tween 20 3 .0 5. S t e a r i c A c i d T .P . 1 . o 6 . Propy lparaben 0 . 1 7. Methy lparaben 0 .2 8 . Water ( d e i o n i z e d ) 38.6 9 . Borax U . S . P . 0 . 5 10.Bentone LT r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 0 . 3 11.Perfume 0.3 M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s : 1. P a r t 1 - I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l , add i tems 1 t h r o u g h 7
and heat t o 75C. M a i n t a i n t h i s tempera ture and s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l e v e r y t h i n g i s i n s o l u t i o n . B r i n g tempera ture t o 60C.
2. P a r t 2 - I n a separa te s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l , add i t e m 8 and h e a t t o 60C. Add and d i s s o l v e i t e m 9. Add i t e m 10 and mix a t medium speed (1200 rpm) f o r about 20 minutes, o r u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d ispersed, w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g tempera ture a t 60C.
3 . P a r t 3-Add P a r t 2 t o P a r t 1 s l o w l y and mix t o g e t h e r . 4 . Cool l o t i o n t o 50C and add i t e m 11. S t i r s l o w l y t o room
Formula TS-105 tempera ture .
Hand Lotion
Mater i a1 s : ?6 bv Wei qht 1 . Water 87.59 2. T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 .42 3 . Propy lene G l y c o l 4.00 4. Methy lparaben 0.10 5 . Bentone LT r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 0.80 6. Ceraphyl 424 3.00 7. S t e a r i c A c i d T .P . 0 .79 8 . P l u r o n i c F-127 1 .oo 9. G l y c e r y l Monostearate 2 .00 10.Propylparaben 0.10 11.Perfume 0 . 2 0 M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . P a r t 1 - I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d k e t t l e , add i tems 1
t h r o u g h 4 and heat t o 60C. Us ing a homomixer a t about 1400 r p m , add i t e m 5 s l o w l y t o a v o i d lumps, and mix f o r 20 minu tes o r u n t i l homogeneous. If foam develops, add a minu te amount o f Ant i foam 60. Heat P a r t 1 t o 78C.
2 . P a r t 2 - I n a separa te v e s s e l , add i t e m s 6 t h r o u g h 10 and heat t o 78C. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y m e l t e d and homogeneous.
3 . M i x P a r t 2 s l o w l y i n P a r t 1 a t 78C u s i n g sweep b lades . 4. Cool t o 50C. Add i t e m 10, mix and c o o l t o room tempera ture . Formula TS-200 SOURCE: Rheox, Inc.: Suggested Formula t ions
264 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Deep Moisturizing Lotion
T h i s a f t e r - b a t h l o t i o n g i v e s t h e b e n e f i t s o f p o t e n t s k i n c o n d i t i o n e r s whi l e e l i m i n a t i n g t h e t a c k i n e s s assoc ia ted w i t h l a n o l i n and p e t r o l a t u m t h r o u g h t h e u n i q u e emo l l i ency p r o v i d e d by Phosphol i p i d EFA.
P a r t A : Phospho l i p id €FA Steare th-21 Water
P a r t B: Steare th -2 Anhydrous L a n o l i n Pe t ro la tum O c t y l d o d e c y l M y r i s t a t e C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l D i meth i cone ( 1 OOcS)
% BY Weiqht 4 .00 0 .40
82.00
1 . 60 1 . 5 0 3 . 0 0 2 .00 4.00 1 . 5 0
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y and heat t o 65C. Homogenize (B) i n t o (A) w i t h con t inued h e a t i n g u n t i l s u f f i c i e n t l y mixed. S t i r - c o o l t o 45-50C, t h e n add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , and p r e s e r v a t i v e as needed b e f o r e f i l l i n g .
Hand and Body Lotion
A s u p e r i o r p r o d u c t des igned f o r a f t e r - b a t h use on t r a d i t i o n - a l l y d r y a reas such as hands, elbows and h e e l s . Phospho l i p id €FA i s s t r o n g l y s u b s t a n t i v e towards s k i n p r o v i d i n g non-greasy m o i s t u r i z i n g and a p l e a s a n t a f t e r f e e l .
P a r t A: Phosphol i p i d EFA Water
P a r t 0 : Steare th -2 L i g h t M i n e r a l O i l C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l O c t y l d o d e c y l M y r i s t a t e Dimethicone (1OOcS)
% by Weiqht 4 .00
83 I 00
2 .00 4 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 2 . 5 0 1 . 5 0
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y and heat t o 6 5 C . Homogenize ( 6 ) i n t o ( A ) w i t h con t inued h e a t i n g u n t i l s u f f i c i e n t l y mixed. S t i r - c o o l t o 45C. Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , and p r e s e r v a t i v e as needed and f i l l .
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : PHOSPHOLIPID EFA: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Lotions 265
Emollient LotionI l l u s t r a t e s t h e use o f Veegum Pro magnesium aluminum s i l i c a t e
as an emuls ion s t a b i l i z e r and t h i c k e n e r . The f o r m u l a i s des igned t o serve as a g u i d e f o r t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e improvement o f e x i s t i ng ones. A Veegum Pro 1.5%
Water 83.8 B T r i e thano l ami ne 0 . 1
G l y c e r i n 3 .5 C Marcol 130 3 . 6
P e t r o l a t u m 0 . 4 S t e a r i c a c i d XXX 1 . 6 C e t y l a l c o h o l 1 . 5 Kessco G l y c e r o l Monostearate SE 1 . 4 A c e t u l a n 2 . 0 Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d 0.6 P r e s e r v a t i ve q . s .
Heat t h e water t o 70 t o 75C, then s l o w l y add t h e Veegum PRO Procedure:
w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e shear . M i x u n t i l smooth. Add B t o A w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n u n t i l smooth. M a i n t a i n A/B a t 70 t o 75C, h e a t C t o 75 t o 00C. Add C t o A/0 and mix u n t i l c o o l . Cons is tency : Medium v i s c o s i t y l o t i o n . Suggested Packaging: Squeeze o r pump b o t t l e . Comments: Veegum PRO e f f e c t i v e l y t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l i z e s
t h e l o t i o n , even a t e l e v a t e d tempera tures . T h i s l o t i o n i s absorbed r a p i d l y , l e a v i n g t h e s k i n smooth and grease less .
Hand and Body Lotion I l l u s t r a t e s t h e use o f Veegum PRO magnesium aluminum s i l i c a t e
as an emuls ion s t a b i l i z e r and t h i c k e n e r . The f o r m u l a i s des igned t o serve as a gu ide f o r t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones. A Veegum Pro 2.00%
Water 70.75 G l y c e r i n 6.00
B Marcal 130 10.00 P e t r o l a t u m 4.00 A r l a c e l 165 5 .OO Synchrowax A w l - C 1 .25
C A l l a n t o i n 1 .oo P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .
Procedure: Heat t h e water t o 70 t o 75C, t h e n s l o w l y add t h e Veegum PRO
w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e shear . M i x u n t i l smooth. Add g l y c e r i n e and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat 6 t o 75 t o 80C. Add B t o A and mix u n t i l c o o l . Add C and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cons is tency : Medium v i s c o s i t y l o t i o n . Suggested Packaging: Squeeze o r pump b o t t l e . Comments: Veegum PRO e f f e c t i v e l y t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l i z e s t h e emuls ion even a t e l e v a t e d tempera tures . G l y c e r i n h e l p s t o r a p i d l y h y d r a t e d r y s k i n and t h e s e l e c t i o n o f o i l s and waxes produces a smooth and non-greasy f e e l . The a l l a n t o i n p r o v i d e s s o o t h i n g r e l i e f f o r wounds, burns , and s k i n problems i n g e n e r a l . SOURCE: R.T. V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c , : Formula Nos. 417 & No. 420
266 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
European O/W Cleansing Lotion
I n a r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l
Ar lamol E
B A r l a t o n e 2121 Propylene g l y c o l G l y c e r o l Water
C Carbomer 934 (3% s o l u t i o n )
D Sodium Hydrox ide (10% s o l u t i o n ) t o pH o f 6 .5 -7 .0
E *Perfume
*q. s . these i n g r e d i e n t s .
%J& 15.00 3 .00
2.00 1 .25 1 .25
72.50
5.00
Procedure: D isperse (C) i n ( 6 ) a t 75C w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . Heat (A)
and add a t 75 w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . Homogenize d u r i n g a d d i t i o n o f (A) . S t i r v i g o r o u s l y u n t i l c o o l . Add ( 0 ) around 50C. Add (E) a t below 35C.
Water/Oil Cleansing Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l
Beeswax Ceres in wax Sorbo A r l a c e l 186 Tween 80
B Water, d e i on i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e
*q. s t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s
15.00 0.50 0.50
27.00 3 .00 0 . 5 0
53.50
Procedure:
moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add water l o s t due t o evap- o r a t i on.
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (B) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h
Lotions 267
Gentle Moisturizing Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion
R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a t h i x o t r o p i c l o t i o n which can be d ispensed f rom a f l e x i b l e t u b e or s o f t p l a s t i c b o t t l e . The p r o d u c t u t i l i z e s a b l e n d o f t w o a lpha hydroxy a c i d s (AHA'S), and b u f f e r e d c i t r i c a c i d a t a combined use l e v e l o f approx- i m a t e l y 2.5%. T h i s p roduc t c o u l d be used as a d a i l y use moi s t u r i z i n g AHA p r o d u c t . w A . De ion ized Water 76.70
Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 0.20 2 ,4 -D ich lo robenzy l A lcoho l (Myacide SP) 0.20 Hexyl ene G1 y c o l 1 .oo
B . Hydroxyethy l c e l l u l ose ( C e l l o s i ze QP-15,OOOH) 1 .oo C . I sos tearamidopropy l PG-Dimonium C h l o r i d e
(Lexquat AMG-IS) 2.00 D. G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 3.00
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 4.00 Propylene G l y c o l D i p e l a rgonate 2.10 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (and) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (and)
I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e (Lexo l 3975) 1 .oo Sesame O i l 2.00 Tocopherol (Copherol 1300) 0 .10 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .10
E. De ion ized Water 4.00 Mal i c A c i d (Granu lar ) 1 .oo Sodium C i t r a t e USP-FCC 1.60
Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A" h e a t i n g t o 70-75C. Use a p r o p e l l e r mixer
for a g i t a t i o n . 2 . S p r i n k l e s e c t i o n ftB19 i n t o s e c t i o n " A " . I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed
t o c r e a t e a v o r t e x d u r i n g a d d i t i o n , t h e n s low t o h i g h e s t speed which does n o t produce a v o r t e x .
3 . When s e c t i o n s '!A" & 'lBll a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g - na ted tempera tures add s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t i o n s "AB".
4. Combine s e c t i o n " D " . Heat t o 75-80C w i t h cont inuous s low m i x i ng.
5 . When s e c t i o n s "ABC" and s e c t i o n 'ID" a r e homogeneous and a t t h e des ignated temperatures, s l o w l y pour s e c t i o n "D" i n t o s e c t i o n s "ABC'I. I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed t o a h i g h speed. Main- t a i n a t 80-85C for 5 minu tes , t h e n b e g i n c o o l i n g . Slow m i x i n g speed t o h i g h e s t speed p o s s i b l e t h a t w i l l n o t cause v o r t e x i n g .
6 . Combine s e c t i o n "E" and mix u n t i l i t becomes a c l e a r s o l u t i o n . 7 . Add s e c t i o n "E" t o s e c t i o n s "ABCD" a t 60-65C. Cont inue m i x i n g
and c o o l i n g . 8 . A t 40-45C a d j u s t f o r water l o s s . 9 . M i x b a t c h u n t i l i t reaches 30-35C. 10. A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 4.00-4.10 w i t h a M a l i c A c i d s o l u t i o n , as
P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i 8s: r e q u i r e d I
V i s c o s i t y : 4,500 cPs @ 24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, TA @ 10 rpm) 24 hour sample.
pn: 4.1 @ 24c
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n 398-87-3
268 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s : A I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e
O l e i c a c i d S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed Atmul 84s Sorbo T r i e thano l ami ne Water, d e i o n i z e d and . l % p r e s e r v a t i v e
B A l c o h o l , SDA 40 Fragrance
%w/w 2 .00 2 . 0 0 2 .00 3 .20 2 .00 1 . o o
83.30 4 .00 0 .50
Procedure:
coo led t o 45C. D i s s o l v e f r a g r a n c e i n t h e a l c o h o l . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) . S t i r t o i n s u r e thorough a g i t a t i o n .
Heat (A) t o 95C. A g i t a t e u n t i l a m i l k y emuls ion forms and i s
Hand Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s : A L i g h t m i n e r a l o i l
S t e a r i c a c i d A c e t y l a t e d 1 anol i n A r l a c e l 165 C e t y l a l c o h o l S i l i c o n e f l u i d , 200 c s
Sorbo, So rb i t o 1 so l u t i on, USP Methy l paraben Propy l paraben
B Water
4.00 2 .00 3 .00 5.00 1 - 0 0 1 . o o
78.80 5.00 0 . 1 8 0 . 0 2
Procedure:
t i o n . Cool t o s e t p o i n t and homogenize. Formula SK-9
Heat (A) t o 70C and (6) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h a g i t a -
Hand Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l
B r i j 52 B r i j 58 T r i e thano l ami ne
Water, de i o n i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e * q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
B Carboxy v i n y l polymer, Carbopol 934
3 0 . 0 0 5 .20 4.80 0 . 2 0 0 .20
59.60
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t . SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o (A) r a p i d
Lotions 269
Hand Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E
A r l a s o l v e 200L B r i j 72 S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
E Water, d e i o n i z e d Carbopol 934
C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W / W aqueous)
D * P r e s e r v a t i v e *Perfume
*q. s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
%J&v 8 . 0 0 1 . 7 0 2 . 8 0 2 . 0 0
8 5 . 1 0 0 . 2 0
0 .20
Procedure:
72C and add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add (C) and i n c r e a s e speed o f t h e a g i t a t i o n as needed. Add ( D ) and rep1 ace water 1 o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n . Formula AE-9
D ispe rse Carbomer i n water and hea t (B) t o 70C. Heat (A) t o
Hand Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s : w A S t e a r y l a l c o h o l 5 . 0 0
B r i j 7215 1 . 5 0
B Water, d e i o n i zed Carbopol 934
9 2 . 8 0 0 .20
C Sodium Hydrox ide (10% W / W aqueous) 0 .20
D D o w i c i l 200 0 .10
E Fragrance 0 .20
Procedure:
p r o p e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add (D) when t h e tempera tu re drops below 50C. Add ( E ) below 40C. Add water t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w l y u s i n g
270 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g .m.s .
C e t y l a l c o h o l
B Sorbo, 70% s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n U . S . P . Water, d e i o n i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e
C * M i l d a c i d t o a d j u s t pH *q . s . t hese i ngred i e n t s .
%w/w 5 . 0 0 5 .00
5 . 0 0 8 5 . 0 0
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o room tempera ture w i t h s t i r r i n g . Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat (B ) t o 72C. Add (B) t o (A) w i t h r a p i d
Protective Hand Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s : A S i l i c o n e f l u i d , 50 cs
B r i j 52 B r i j 56 T r i e thano l ami ne
B Carboxy v i n y l polymer, Carbopol 934 Water, d e i o n i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e * q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t . Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat (5) t o 72C. Add (6 ) t o ( A ) r a p i d
Protective Hand Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s : A S i l i c o n e f l u i d , 50 cs
B r i j 52 B r i j 58 T r ie thano lamine
B Carboxy v i n y l polymer, Carbopol 934 Water, de i on i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e * q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s ,
Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat (6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) r a p i d Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
o/ow/w 1 0 . 0 0 2 .60 4 .90 0 . 2 0
0 . 2 0 8 2 . 1 0
%w/w 10.00 4 .00 3 .60 0.20
0 . 2 0 8 2 . 0 0
Lotions 271
Hand Lotion M a t e r i a1 s : % b y Wei n h t P a r t A : 1 . De ion ized Water 85.89 2 . T r i e thano l ami ne 0 .42 3 . G l y c e r i n e 4.00
5. Eentone EW r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 1 . 5 0 P a r t E : 6 . Ceraphyl 424 3.00 7 . S t e a r i c A c i d XXX 0 . 7 9 8 . I sop ropano l L a n o l a t e D i s t i l l e d 1 . o o 9 . P l u r o n i c F-127 1 .oo 1 0 . G l y c e r y l Monostearate 2.00 11 .P ropy l Paraben 0 .10
12.Fragrance 0 .20
4. Methy l Paraben 0 .10
P a r t C :
Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . P a r t A - In a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e , add i t e m 1
t o 4 and hea t t o 60C. Us ing a homomixer, add i t e m 5 s l o w l y t o a v o i d lumps and mix f o r 20 m inu tes o r u n t i l homogeneous. Heat t o 80C.
80C. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y m e l t e d and homogeneous. 2. P a r t B - I n a sepera te v e s s e l , add i t e m s 6 t o 11 and hea t to
3. M i x P a r t B s l o w l y i n P a r t A a t 80C u s i n g sweep b l a d e s . 4 . Cool t o 50C. Add P a r t C , m ix and c o o l t o room tempera tu re . 5 . V i s c o s i t y o f l o t i o n a f t e r 24 hours shou ld be 9100 cps. Formula TS-246
Soft Hand Lotion M a t e r i a1 s : % b y Weiaht 1 . De ion ized Water 84 .1 2. Bentone LT r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 0 . 5 3. G l y c e r i n e 2 . 5 4 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 .7 5 . Methy l Paraben 0 . 1 6 . Ceraphyl 424 1 . 5 7. I s o c e t y l S t e a r a t e 1 . o 8 . A c e t o l 1 .7 9 . S t e a r i c A c i d 4 . 0 10 . Lexemul 55G 3 . 4 11 . V o l a t i l e S i l i c o n e 7158 0 . 2 12 .P ropy l Paraben 0 . 1 13.Fragrance 0 . 2 M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Us ing v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , add t h e Eentone LT t o t h e w a t e r .
M i x f o r 20 m inu tes . 2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s 3 th rough 5 t o S tep 1, hea t t o 80C. 3 . I n a separa te v e s s e l , combine i n g r e d i e n t s 6,7,8,9,10 and 12
4. Add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Water Phase. 5 . Cool t o 50C, t h e n add i n g r e d i e n t s 11 and 13 . 6 . Cool t o 35C and package. Formula TS-287 SOURCE: Rheox, I n c , : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat t o 80C.
272 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand and Body Lotion
P a r t 1 : Water Carbomer 934 P a r t 2 : Modul an I PP Amerchol L-101 GMS SE Rosswax 63-041 2 I PM Jo joba O i l P a r t 3 : Germaben I I E P a r t 4: Fragrance P a r t 5 : T r i e thano lamine
% 78.6
0 . 2
1 . 6 3 . 8 0 .8 2 . 1 4 . 0 4 . 0 1 . 6
1 . o
q . s
2.3
Procedure: P a r t A :
s t e e l k e t t l e . P a r t B:
I n a separa te heated k e t t l e , heat t h e o i l phase u n t i l a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e me l ted . When e v e r y t h i n g i s me l ted add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Water Phase. When e v e r y t h i n g i s b lended add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e , t h e f r a g r a n c e and t h e T r ie thano lamine w i t h i nc reased a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o room tempera ture and package.
D ispe rse t h e Carbomer 934 i n t h e water phase i n a s t a i n l e s s
Jojoba Lotion
P a r t A : Modul an Amerchol L-101 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e G l y c e r y l Mono S t e a r a t e Pure Rosswax 63-0412 I s o p r o p y l Myr i s t a t e Ross Jo joba O i 1 P a r t 0: Water G l y c e r i n e Pure Emery 916 T r i e thano l ami ne
% 1 .s 0 . 8 5 . 0 2 . 1 4.0 4 . 0 1 . 6
74.4 4 . 2 2 . 3
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . When tempera ture i s reached mix P a r t ( A ) t o P a r t ( B ) , and c o o l . Package i n c o n t a i n e r a t below 120F.
SOURCE: Frank B . R o s s C o . , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat P a r t ( A ) and P a r t (B) i n separa te vesse ls t o 170F under
Lotions 273
High Petrolatum Lotion
High petrolatum for severely dry, chapped or chafed skin.
O i l Phase: White P ro tope t I S Crodamol PMP Voloo 3
Water Phase A : Dei on i zed Water Carbopol 941 10% Sodi um Hydroxi de Sol u t i on
Water Phase B : G l y c e r i n Volpo s-10 Germaben I 1
%w/w 30.00 1 0 . 0 0
2 . 3 0
4 6 . 3 5 0.13 0 . 5 2
5 . 0 0 5 . 7 0
qs
Procedure: Water Phase A :
h e a t i n g t o 80C. When comp le te l y d i spe rsed , add t h e sodium hyd rox ide s o l u t i o n and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g . Water Phase B :
When u n i f o r m , add t o water phase A . O i l Phase:
Combine a l l components o f t h e o i l phase, mix and hea t t o 8 0 C . When un i fo rm, add t h e combined water phases s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g . Cont inue m i x i n g t o room tempera ture .
Charge a vesse l w i t h water and dus t i n t h e carbomer. S t a r t
Combine components i n a separa te vesse l and m ix , heat t o 8 0 C .
Low Irritation Moisturizing Lotion
D i sodi urn 1 a u r y l s u l f o s u c c i na te G l y c e r i n Methylparaben Ce ty l a l c o h o l Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 Methy l phenyl p o l y s i loxane Beeswax Water
0.30% 5 . 0 0 0 . 2 0 2 . 0 0
2 0 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 0 . 2 0
q . s . t o 1 0 0 . 0 0
SOURCE: W i t co Corp . : Petroleum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
274 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
I nar ed i e n t s : L i g h t m i n e r a l o i l S t e a r y l a l c o h o l B r i j 721, S teare th-21 B r i j 72, S teare th-2
Hydroalcoholic Mineral Oil Emulsion
w 8.00 1 .oo
Water, d e i o n i z e d Carbomer 934
Sodium Hydrox ide S o l u t i o n (10%)
* P r e s e r v a t i v e
Fragrance
Ethanol , SDA-40, ( 190 Proof)
* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and (6) t o 75C w i t h good p
Add (C) below 50C and mix t h o r o u g h l y . Add t h e below 35C. Replace water l o s t due t o evapora t
Mineral Oil Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l
A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g.m.s.
B Water, d e i o n i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e
C * M i l d a c i d t o a d j u s t pH
*q. s, t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
2.28 1 . 7 2
66.00 0 .40
0 .40
0 .00
0.20
20.00
o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n remai n i ng phases on. Package.
w 10.00 10.00
80.00
Procedure:
thorough b u t g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Cool t o 25C w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat ( A ) t o 6OC. Heat (B) t o 62C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h
Lotions 275
Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion
I n n r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e p ressed
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l C e t y l a l c o h o l B r i j 721s S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s .
B Water, d e i o n i zed EDTA Phenacet i n
C Hydrogen pe rox ide , 27% d i
D *Phosphor ic a c i d , 10% C . P
*q . s . these i ngred i e n t s .
Procedure:
u t i o n grade
1 0 . 0 0 0 .50 1 .oo 5 .00 0 .50
51 .06 0 .20 0 .04
22.20
9 .50
Heat ( A ) t o 60C and (6) t o 65C. Add (B ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) below 35C. Replace water l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 .5 -4 .0 w i t h d i l u t e phosphor ic a c i d (10% C.P. ) . Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b l e evo l u t i on o f oxygen. Formula HC-14
Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s : A C e t y l a l c o h o l
B r i j 52 B r i j 58
B Water, d e i o n i z e d
C Hydrogen pe rox ide , 35% d
D Phosphor ic a c i d (1O%C>P>
l u t i o n grade
as r e q u i r e d
4 .00 1 .50 3.50
73.06
17.14
Procedure:
thorough a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compensate f o r l o s t water due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add ( C ) . A d j u s t pH t o 3.5-4.0 by add ing (0).
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h
276 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Isopropyl Myristate Lotion
I n n r e d i e n t s : I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e A r l a c e l 60 A r l a s o l v e 200L
Water, d e i o n i z e d Carbopol 934
Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W / W aqueous)
D o w i c i l 200
Fragrance
*q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i ents .
%B 10.00
1 . 6 0 3 .33
84 .07 0.40
0.40
0 . 1 0
0 .10
Procedure: Heat (A) t o 65C and ( B ) t o 60C. Add (A) t o ( B ) s l o w l y w i t h
moderate anchor t y p e a g i t a t i o n and add (C) . Add ( D ) a t about 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C and add water t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Formula PC 8186
Vanishing Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol I S M L
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l S i l i c o n e o i l (350 cs) Ar lamol E B r i j 700 B r i j 72
B Water, d e i o n i zed Veegum (5% aqueous s o l u t i o n ) Carbopol 934
w 4.00 1 .oo 0.50 1 .oo 2.00 2.00
79.05 10.00
0 .15
C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% aqueous) 0 .15
D Germal l I 1 0 .10
E Herbal Fragrance SL 79-1224, PFW 0.05
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add (D) below 50C. Add (E) a t 35C and add water t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Formula t ions
Heat (A) t o 70C and (8) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h moderate
Lotions 277
Lanolin & Aloe Lotion
L o t i o n s have a wide range o f a p p l i c a t i o n s i n t o d a y ' s cosmet ic market . I d e a l l y t h e y shou ld l e a v e a smooth l u x u r i o u s a f t e r f e e l t o t h e s k i n and h e l p a l l e v i a t e such problems as d r y s k i n o r chapping f r o m wind and sunburn. SC-188 i s an economical l o t i o n which achieves b o t h ends. Crodamol PTC, a n o n - o i l y e s t e r which g i v e s a "cushiony" f e e l a t low l e v e l s o f a d d i t i o n , a l s o works w i t h t h e l a n o l i n and l a n o l i n d e r i v e d p r o d u c t s t o l e a v e a s a t i n y , non-greasy, p r o t e c t i v e f i l m on t h e s k i n .
I n q r e d i e n t s : E! P a r t A : Super R e f i n e d Babassu O i l (Babassu O i l ) 2.00 Corona Pure New L a n o l i n ( L a n o l i n ) 2 .00 Crodacol CS-50 ( C e t e a r y l A lcoho l ) 1.50 Super S t e r o l E s t e r (C10-30 C h o l e s t e r o l / L a n o s t e r o l E s t e r s ) 1 .00 Crodamol PTC ( P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a c a p r y l a t e / C a p r a t e ) 0 .80 Crodacol C-95 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0 .50 Crodarnol MM ( M y r i s t y l M y r i s t a t e ) 0.50 I n c r o p o l CS-20 (Ceteareth-20) 1 .oo M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) 4.00 S t e a r i c A c i d XXX 0.50 S i l i c o n e L-45 (1OOcps) 0.30 Propy l Paraben 0 .15
P a r t B : Deion ized Water G l y c e r i n Veragel 200 Powder Methy l Paraben Carbopol 941 D o w i c i l 200 PEG-1 5 Cocami ne
81 - 5 5 3.00 0.50 0 .30 0 .10 0.10 0 .20
Procedure:
When c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B and heat t o 75-8OC. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 75-80C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h good m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l tempera ture . A d j u s t pH w i t h 1 .0% NaOH.
Dust t h e Carbopol 941 o f P a r t B i n t o t h e water w i t h m i x i n g .
pH: 6 .0+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y : 7,500+-10% (RVT S p i n d l e #5, 20 rpm @ 25C) N . A . T . C . Approved
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-188-2
278 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Lotion
I n a r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
B r i j 7215 S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s .
B Water, de i on i zed C Hydrogen pe rox ide , 27% d i l u t i o n grade
w 8 . 0 0 4 . 0 0 0 .50
65.30 22.20
Procedure:
moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) below 35C. Replace water l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 w i t h d i l u t e phosphor ic a c i d (10% C . P . ) . Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i net- f o r p o s s i b l e e v o l u t i o n o f oxygen. Formula PC-8202
Heat (A) t o 60C and (B) t o 65C. Add (B) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h
Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s : A C e t y l a l c o h o l
B r i j 7215 Si1;cone o i l , 350 c s .
Sorbo B Water, d e i o n i zed
C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 27% d i l u t i o n grade
w 3 . 0 0 3 .00 0 .50
66.30 5 . 0 0
22.20
Procedure:
moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) below 35C. Replace water l o s t by evapora t i on and a d j u s t pH t o 3.5-4.0 w i t h d i l u t e phosphor ic a c i d (10% C . P . ) . Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b l e e v o l u t i o n o f oxygen. Formula PC-8203
Heat (A) t o 60C and (B) t o 65C. Add (B) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h
Glossy Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i 1 , C a r n a t i o n
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l B r i j 721s B r i j 72
B Water, d e i on i zed C D o w i c i l 200 D Fragrance
w 8 .00 1 - 0 0 2 .00 2.00
86.80 0 .10 0 .10
Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C and (B) t o 75C w i t h good p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n
Add (C) a t 50C and mix t h o r o u g h l y . Add ( D ) a t 35C. Add water t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Lotions 279
Low Solids Almond Lotion II
Water Carbomer 934 Rosswax 573 GMS SE Almond O i 1 - L i pova l A1M Coconut O i l #76 Jo joba O i l TEA P r e s e r v a t i v e Germaben I 1 Fragrance GG44
P a r t s by Wei q h t 568. Ogr .
2 . 0 g r . 4 . 0 g r . 4 . 0 g r .
1 6 . 0 g r . 16 .0gr . 4 . 0 g r . 4 . 0 g r . 6 . 0 g r . q . s .
Procedure: Heat t h e water t o 60C under a g i t a t i o n and s l o w l y add t h e
Carbomer 934. When t h e water i s f u l l y mixed add t h e 573, GMS, Almond O i l , Coconut O i l , and Jo joba O i l t h a t have been heated t o 65C i n a separa te k e t t l e . As soon as t h e y have been mixed w e l l add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e , t h e f r a g r a n c e and t h e n t h e TEA under h i g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t h e b a t c h t o 55C, and package.
Peach Hand Lotion
Water Carbomer 934 Rosswax 573
Almond O i 1 L i p o v a l ALM Coconut O i l #76 Ross Jo joba O i l TEA Germaben I 1 Fragrance GK-16
GMS-SE
P a r t s by Wei n h t 568. Ogr 2. Ogr 4 .0gr 4 . Ogr
16 .0gr
16.0gr 4. Ogr 4 , Ogr 6 .0gr q . s .
Procedure: Heat t h e water t o 60C under a g i t a t i o n and s l o w l y add t h e
Carbomer 934. When t h e water i s f u l l y mixed add t h e 573, GMS, Almond O i l , Coconut O i l , and J o j o b a O i l t h a t have been heated t o 65C i n a separa te k e t t l e . As soon as t h e O i l Phase has been mixed w e l l , add t h e Germaben 11, t h e Fragrance, and then t h e TEA under h i g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 55C f o r f i l l i n g .
SOURCE: Frank B. Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions
280 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Milk Lotion
Liquid Petrolatum Amiter LG-OD Propylene Glycol Monostearate POE (5) Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Emalex HC-5)* POE (5) Glyceryl Monostearate (Emalex GM-5) * Butyl Paraben Amihope LL
Acylglutamate HS-11 1,3-Butylene Glycol Methyl Paraben
Carboxyvi nyl Polymer Water
Sodi um Hydroxi de (NaOH) *Nihon Emulsion Co.
Procedure: 1 . Dissolve (A) at 80C. 2 . Dissolve (C), and then neutralize with (0).
and dissolve at 80C. to (A) as mixing, and then cool to 30C
3 . Add 4 . Add
Note:
(B) to # 2 #3 slowly
his milk otion has light touch, and spreads well.
Milk Lotion
Mineral Oil Amiter LGOD Propylene G1 ycol Stearate PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil PEG-5 G1 yceryl Stearate Butyl Paraben Amihope LL
Acyl glutamate HS-11 Carbomer 9 4 1 Sodi urn Hydroxi de Butylene Glycol Methyl Paraben Water Milk lotion with smooth touch and good spreadability
4 . 7 2.2 0 . 4 1.3 2.8 0 . 1 3.0
0.3 5 . 0 0 . 2
0.2 79.72
0.08
5.00 2 . 0 0 0.50 1.50 2.50 0 . 1 0 3.00
0.30 0.20 0.08 5.00 0.20
7 9 . 6 2
Procedure: Dissolve Carbomer 941 and sodium hydroxide in water first.
Add other ingredients o f ( B ) to the solution and dissolve at 75-80 degrees C. Dissolve ( A ) ingredients at 80 degrees C and add (A) to ( B ) with agitation. Cool down to room temperature with agitation. SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, Inc.: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Lotions 281
Milk Lotion
(0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 54-56C) C e t y l A l coho l I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e Squal ane N i k k o l WCB L a n o l i n Po lyoxye thy lene (10 ) L a n o l i n A l coho l Po lye thy lene G l y c o l (6300) Monostearate Po lyoxye thy lene ( 5 ) S t e a r y l E the r Po lyoxye thy lene (25) C e t y l E the r
(W) A j i dew N-50 Po lye thy lene G l y c o l - 1500 Water P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h s t i r r i n g .
pH: 5 . 3 V i s c o s i t y : 20,000 cps
Milk Lotion
(0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) Beeswax S t e a r y l A l coho l I s o p a l m i t y l A l coho l Po lyoxye thy lene (10 ) G l y c e r y l T r i i s o s t e a r a t e Po lyoxye thy l ene (1 5 ) C e t y l E the r
( W ) Aj idew N-50 Water P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .
pH: 5 .2 V i scos i t y : 1,700 cps
SOURCE: A j inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
g 10 .0
5 . 0 3.0 2 .0 0 . 5 4 . 0 0 . 5 1 . o 0 . 5 2 .1 2 . 9
3 . 0 3 . 0
62 .5 q . s
g 10.45
1 . o 1 . 5 1 . 2 2 .35 0 . 8
3 . 0 79 .7
Q . S .
282 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Mineral Oil Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l , C a r n a t i o n b rand
B r i j 72 A r l a s o l v e 200L
B Water, d e i o n i zed Carbopol 934
20 .00 2 .70 4.60
71 .80 0.40
C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W / W aqueous) 0 . 4 0
D D o w i c i l 200 1 .oo
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . Add C . Add ( D ) below 50C. Add (E) a t 35C and add water t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Formula PC-8184
Heat (A) t o 70C and ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) w i t h moderate
Mineral Oil Lotion-O/W
I n q r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l
B r i j 52 (Ceteth-2) A r l a s o l v e 200 L i q u i d ( I s o c e t e t h - 2 0 )
B Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 934 A r l aso l ve D M I
C Sodium hydrox ide-10% aqueous s o l u t i o n
D * P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
o/ow/w 30.00
5 .20 6 .60
5 2 . 8 0 0 .20 5 .00
0 .20
Procedure: D ispe rse Carbomer i n t h e wa te r and A r l a s o l v e D M I w i t h r a p i d
a g i t a t i o n . Heat (B) t o 65 deg. C and (A) t o 60 deg. C . Add ( 6 ) t o (A) w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) . Add ( D ) below 50 deg. C . S t i r t o 35 deg. C and r e p l a c e evaporated wa te r .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions 283
Mineral Oil Free Lotion Contains Ethanol (20%)
I n s r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E
B r i j 721s B r i j 72 S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
B Water, d e i on i zed Carbopol 934
w 20 .00
2 . 0 0 4.00 4 .00
48.80 0 .40
C Sodium hyd rox ide (10% aqueous) 0.40
D Germal l I 1 0 . 2 0
E Fragrance, H 45756 ( P . R o b e r t e t ) 0 . 2 0
F Ethano l , SDA-40 (190 p r o o f ) 2 0 . 0 0
Procedure:
b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add (D) when t h e tempera ture drops below 50C. Add (E) below 40C. Add water t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
Heat (A) t o 70C and (B) t o 75C. Add (B) t o (A) s l o w l y u s i n g
Lotion
I n s r e d i e n t s : A C e t y l a l c o h o l
B r i j 7215
B Water, d e i o n i z e d Sorbo, So rb i t o 1 S o l u t i o n USP Carbopol 934
w 1 - 0 0 1 - 0 0
95 .30 2 . 0 0 0 . 2 0
C Sodium hyd rox ide (10% W / W aqueous) 0 . 2 0
D D o w i c i l 200 0 .10
E Fragrance 0 . 2 0
Procedure:
p r o p e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) . Add (D) when t h e tempera tu re drops below 50C. Add ( E ) below 40C. Add water t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 .5 -6 .5
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Sugeested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat (A) t o 70C and (B) t o 75C. Add (B) t o ( A ) s l o w l y u s i n g
284 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisturizing Lotion
Phase A : P r o t o p e t I S PPG-15 S t e a r y l E t h e r (A r lamo l E ) S t e a r y l A l coho l S tea re th -2 ( B r i j 72) S tea re th -20 ( B r i j 78) D i meth i cone
Phase 8: Water Carbomer 940 (Carbopol 940)
Phase C : Polyquatern ium-19 ( A r l a t o n e PQ220) Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne
Percent 2 . 0 0 2.00 1 . o o 3 .00 1 .00 0 .10
50 .00 0 . 1 0
10.00 30.20
0 . 1 0
Phase D: Germaben I 1 0 .50 Procedure:
D ispe rse Carbopol 940 i n water (B) and hea t t o 75C. Heat A t o 70C. Add A t o B and mix u s i n g p r o p e l l e r - t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Heat C t o 70C and add t o AB w i t h tho rough a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 60C w i t h a g i t a t i o n and add D .
Pomade Lotion
O i l Phase: P r o t o p e t IS P e t r o l a t u m Crodamol PMP Volpo 3
Water Phase A : Dei o n i zed Water Carbopol 941 10% Sodium Hydrox ide S o l u t i o n
Percent 30 .00 1 0 . 0 0
2.30
46 .35 0 .13 0 .52
Water Phase 6: G l y c e r i n e 5 .00 Volpo s-10 5.70 Germaben I 1 9 , s . Procedure:
Water Phase A . Charge a vesse l w i t h water and d u s t i n t h e Carbomer. S t a r t h e a t i n g t o 80C. When c o m p l e t e l y d i spe rsed , add t h e Sodium Hydrox ide s o l u t i o n and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g .
Combine wa te r Phase B i n a separa te vesse l and mix and hea t t o 80C. When u n i f o r m add t o water Phase A .
Combine t h e o i l phase, mix and hea t t o 80C. When u n i f o r m add t h e combined wa te r phases s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g . Cont inue m i x i ng t o room tempera tu re , SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : Pet ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested
Fo rmu la t i ons
Lotions 285
Neutralizing Lotion
I nqred i en t s : A F o r e s t a l l
B r i j 35 SP Water, d e i o n i z e d *Stab i 1 i zer
B Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 35% C *Phosphor ic a c i d
*q. s , these i n g r e d i e n t s .
%w-ly 1.40 2 .oo
92 .30
4.30
Procedure:
t o 5 . 0 w i t h (C) . O p t i o n a l s t a b i l i z e r s may i n c l u d e s e q u e s t r a n t s o r a n t i o x i d a n t s . Formula HC-16
Mix (A) u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add (6) a t 25 deg. C . A d j u s t pH t o 4 .5
Neutralizing Lotion
I nared i e n t s : A Sodium bromate
B r i j 30 P o l y g l y c o l p a l m i t i c amide Water * P r e s e r v a t i v e
B * A c e t i c a c i d , g l a c i a l
* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
12.00 4 .50 4 .50
79 .oo
Procedure: Add t h e sodium bromate t o w a t e r . S t i r w i t h heat u n t i l
d i s s o l v e d . Add t h e remainder o f ( A ) . Heat t o 70-75C. A g i t a t e c o n t i n u a l l y u n t i l c o o l e d t o room tempera ture . A d j u s t pH t o 6.5-7.0 w i t h ( 6 ) . Package. Formula HC-18
Quick Dry Roll-On Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s : A Cyclomethicone, DC 344 f l u i d
B r i j 52 B r i j 35SP
B Water, d e i o n i zed C Aluminum c h l o r h y d r o x i d e , 50% aqueous
w 12.70 3 . 1 0 0.90
48.30 35 I 00
Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C and ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add (6) t o (A) w i t h a g i t -
a t i o n . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g and s l o w l y add t h e remainder o f i n g r e d i e n t s .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
286 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Broad Spectrum Protective Moisturizing Lotion with Vitamins*
I n g r e d i e n t s : A ) Parso l MCX
Parso l 1789 Parso l 5000 G l y c e r y l Monostearate C e t y l A l c o h o l E x t r a Dermol 185 Ganex V-220 P r i s o r i ne 3505 B u t y l a t e d Hydroxy to luene Edeta BD Phenoni p Amphisol A
E) De ion ized Water AMP 10% s o l ' n
C ) De ion ized Water Propy lene G l y c o l Carbopol 981 1% s o l ' n
D) AMP 10% s o l ' n E) De ion ized Water
P a r s o l HS AMP 10% s o l ' n
F) V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e G) Ropufa 25N-6 O i l H ) Panthenol I) Ponceau Red SX 0.2% s o l ' n J) P a r f l e x 49915
w 2.00 1 - 0 0 0.60 2.00 2 .00 6 .00 2 . 0 0 2.00 0 .05 0 . 1 0 0.60 1 . 5 0
10 .00 3.97
22.26 5 . 0 0
10.00 1 . 0 2
20.00 0 .60 1.80 2.00 2 . 0 0 2.00 0.25 0.40**
Procedure: Heat p a r t A ) t o 85C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . When homogeneous, add
p a r t s B),C) and D) pre-heated t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g . Add P a r t E ) pre-heated t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g (be s u r e t h a t t h e Parso l HS has been c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , i f t r a c e s remain, add a smal l q u a n t i t y o f t h e n e u t r a l i z i n g base u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r ) . Cool t o 40C, add p a r t s F) , G ) , H , I) and J). Compensate f o r water loss and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o ambient tempera ture .
Remark : *Whi le n o t a sunscreen, t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n scored an SPF E when
t e s t e d a c c o r d i n g t o t h e FDA/OTC method ( r a n g e - f i n d i n g assay on s i x s u b j e c t s : I R I Ref . 582627).
pH v a l u e shou ld be around 7 .0 t o p r e v e n t r e c r y s t a l l i z a t i o n o f P a r s o l HS.
* * D e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d perfume f o r sunscreens. The f i n a l
SOURCE: Givaudan-Roure: F o r m u l a t i o n 08 COS 029
Lotions 287
O/W Lotion
1 . 2 . 3. 4. 5 . 6 . 7. 8. 9.
10 1 1
A-C Copolymer 580 Mineral Oil (70 ss) Dow 556 Fluid Propyl ene G1 ycol Di pel argonate Amerchol 400 Ethoxyol 24 Arlacel 60 Tween 60 Propy l -P-Hydroxybenzoate
Sorbi to1 (70%) Carbopol 941
12.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 13.Triethanolamine 14. Water
Wt.% 2 . 0 5.0 1 . o
10.0 2.0 1 . o 1 . o 2.0 0.1
5.0 0.5 0.2 0.75
69.45
Procedure: Disperse Carbopol in water. Weigh 1-9 and heat to 80-9OC
with slow agitation. Add remai ni ng i ngredi ents to Carbopol /water dispersion, except triethanolamine, and heat to 80-9OC. Add the water phase to the aqueous phase and shear in homomixer. Continue shearing while cooling to 40C, then add triethanolamine, mixing well. Cool to 30C, add perfume, de-aerate and package. Ref: 5189-2-7
O/W Lotion
1 . 2 . 3. 4. 5. 6 . 7. 8 .
A-C Copolymer 580 Distilled Isopropyl Lanolate Dow 556 Fluid Propylene Glycol Di pel argonate Ethoxyol 24 Arlacel 60 Tween 60 Propy l -P-Hydroxybenzoate
9. Sorbitol (70%) 10. Carbopol 941 1 1 . Triethanolamine 12.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 13. Water
wt-,o/, 2.0 3.0 2.0 13.0
1 . o 1 . o 2.0 0.1
5 . 0 0 . 5 0.75 0 . 2
69.45
Procedure: Disperse Carbopol in water. Weigh 1-8 and heat to 80-9OC
with slow agitation. Add remaining ingredients to Carbopol/water dispersion, except triethanolamine, and heat to 80-9OC. Add the water phase to the aqueous phase and shear in homomixer. Continue shearing while cooling to 40C, then add triethanolamine, mixing well. Cool to 30C, add perfume, de-aerate and package. Ref: 51 89-2-8 SOURCE: Allied Signal Inc.: Suggested Formulations
288 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Lotion
1 . A-C Polyethylene 617 2. A-C Copolymer 540 3. Mineral Oil (70 s s ) 4. Dow 556 Fluid 5. Propylene G1 ycol D i pel argonate 6. Hydroxy01 7. Ethoxyol 24 8. Arlacel 60 9. Tween 60 10.Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
Wt . % 1 . o 1 . o 5.0 1 . o
10.5 2.0 1 .0 1.3 1.8 0.1
11.Sorbitol (70%) 5 0 12.Carbopol 941 0.25 13 Germall 115 0 . 4 14.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.2 15 .Triethanolamine 0.75 16.Water 68.8 Procedure:
Disperse Carbopol in water. Weigh 1-10 and heat to 80-9OC with slow agi tat1 on. Add remai ni ng i ngredi ents to Carbopol/ water dispersion, except triethanolamine, and heat o 80-9OC. Add the wax phase to the aqueous phase and shear in homomixer. Continue shearing while cooling to 40C, then add tr ethanolamine, mixing well Cool to 30C, add perfume, deaerate and package. Ref : 51 89-2-5
O/W Lotion
1 . A-C Copolymer 540 2. Mineral Oil, 70 ss 3. Glycerine 4. Isopropyl Palmitate 5. Anhydrous Lanolin 6. Arlacel 165 7. Propyl -P-Hydroxybenzoate
Wt . % 2.0 10.0 5.0 10.0 3.0 5.0 0.1
a . TEA 3.0 9. Tween 60 1 .0 1O.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.2 1 1 .Germall 115 0.2 12. Water 60.5 Procedure:
are used, solvation will be much faster. Hold wax blend at 85-95C. Weigh 9-12 and heat to 90-95C.
shear in homomixer or equivalent. Cool to 40C while shearing. Add perfume and package. Ref: 501 1-38-9
SOURCE: Allied Signal I n c . : Suggested Formulations
Weigh 1-7 and heat to 85-95C. If higher solvating temperatures
Place aqueous phase in mixing container, add wax phase, and
Lotions 289
O/W Lotion with α-Hydroxy Acids
I n q r e d i e n t s : Phase A : Ceteare th-15 (and) G l y c e r o l S t e a r a t e (Tego Care 215) 6 .0 M i n e r a l O i l 4 . 0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t OS) 5 .0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Tegoso f t CT) 5 .0 S t e a r y l A l coho l (Tego A lkano l 18) 5 . 0
Phase 0: G1 y c e r i n Water
Phase C: *-Hydroxy Ac ids (20%)* Perfume, P r e s e r v a t i v e s
3 .0 62 .0
10.0 Q . S .
* s o l u t i o n c o n t a i n s 10% c i t r i c a c i d and 10% m a l i c a c i d . pH i s a d j u s t e d t o pH 3-3.5 w i t h NaOH.
Procedure:
t o 40C. Add Phase C and c o o l t o 30C o r l o w e r . Heat A and B t o 65C and m ix . Homogenize. Cool w i t h s t i r r i n g
O/W Lotion Cold/Cold Process
I n g r e d i e n t s : Phase A : PEG-25 G l y c e r y l T r i o l e a t e (Tagat TO) M i n e r a l O i l O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t OS) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s (Tegoso f t CT)
Phase B: Water G l y c e r i n P rese rva t i ves
Phase C : Carbomer 934 M i n e r a l O i l
Phase D: NaOH (10% s o l u t i o n )
Procedure: 1 . Homogenize A + 8, o i l p a r t i c l e s i z e t1.0 urn. 2 . Add C and D, s t i r i n t e n s i v e l y f o r 30 m inu tes .
o f t h e Phases A, B, C, D: a r e 20-25C.
%w/w
2 .0 5 . 5 5 . 5 5 .5
76 .3 3 .0 Q.S.
0 . 3 1 .2
0.7
Temperature
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
290 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Oil-In-Water Body Care Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s : A A r l a t o n e 985
B r i j 721 Ar lamol HD Almond o i 1
B G-2330 Propy lene g l y c o l A1 pantha Water
%w/w 4 . 0 0 2 .00
10.00 3 .00
1 .25 1 .25 1 . o o
74.00
C *Perfume * P r e s e r v a t i v e *q I s . t hese i ngred i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat (A) and ( B ) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add ( B ) t o (A)
w h i l e s t i r r i n g v i g o r o u s l y . Homogenize around 40C. Remove f r o m t h e homogenizer and a l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add ( C ) and c o o l t o 30C. Package.
Oil/Water Foundation Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s : A r l a c e l 165 C e t y l a1 coho1 Lanol i n T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e l a u r y l s u l f a t e Water, d e i o n i z e d
%w/w 6 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 0 . 5 0 1 . o o
92.00
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n t o fo rm t h e emuls ion. Con t inue a g i t a t i o n u n t i l t empera tu re drops below 60 deg. C .
Heat i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r t o 9OC. Use con t inuous v i g o r o u s
Oil/Water Foundation Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s : A S y n t h e t i c spermacet i , Spermwax
A r l a c e l 165
B G l y c e r i n Water, d e i o n i z e d * P r e s e r v a t i v e * q q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
%&4J 5 . 0 0
12.00
5 .00 78.00
Procedure:
moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add wa te r l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add (B) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h
Lotions 291
Oil/Water Emollient Lotion
I ngred i e n t s : A O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA
Benzophenone-3 Ar lamol E S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Dimeth icone A r l a s o l v e 200 B r i j 7 2
B Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 934
C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W / W aqueous)
D * P r e s e r v a t i v e *Fragrance
* q , s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
%w/w 7.00 3 .00 7.00 2 .50 1 - 0 0 3 .10 3 .90
7 2 . 1 0 0 . 2 0
0 . 2 0
Procedure:
65C and add ( 8 ) t o (A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add ( C ) and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 50C and add makeup w a t e r .
D ispe rse Carbomer i n water and hea t (8) t o 60C. Heat (A) t o
Oil/Water Emollient Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s : O c t y l d ime thy l PABA Ar lamol E S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Dimeth i cone A r l a s o l v e 200 B r i j 72
Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 934
Sodi urn h y d r o x i de (1 0% W / W aqueous)
* P r e s e r v a t i v e *Fragrance
* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
o/ow/w 5.00 7.00 2 .50 1.00 3 .10 3 .90
77.10 0 . 2 0
0 . 2 0
Procedure:
65C and add (B) t o (A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add ( C ) and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 50C and add makeup w a t e r .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
D ispe rse Carbomer i n water and hea t ( 8 ) t o 60C. Heat (A) t o
292 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Perfumed Body Lotion
T h i s creamy body l o t i o n rubs i n e a s i l y and r e l i e v e s dryness . S k i n i s l e f t f e e l i n g s o f t , smooth, and m o i s t u r i z e d . Geahlene enhances t h e r i c h n e s s and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h i s l o t i on.
I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: De ion ized Water Carbomer/CarboDol 940 Propy l ene G1 y c o l Methy lparaben Panthenol /DL-Panthenol
M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Buty lene/Ethy lene/ S ty rene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Ethy lene/ Propy lene/Sty rene Copolymer//Geahlene 750
Propylene G l y c o l Dicaprylate/Dicaprate//Myritol PC I s o s t e a r y l A l c o h o l / P r i s o r i n e 3515 Propylparaben C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 16 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e / A r l a c e l 165 Dimethicone/Dow Corn ing 200, 100 cSt Potassium C e t y l Phosphate/Amphisol K Tocophery l A c e t a t e / V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e
T r i e thano l ami ne, 99%
D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea/Germal 1 I I
Soy Leci th in/Sedermasome Fragrance
Wei ah t% 67.20
0 . 2 0 7 . 0 0 0 . 2 0 0 .10
7 .00 7 .00 2 . 0 0 0 .10 2 . 0 0 2 .50 0 . 5 0 1 . 7 5 0.10
0 . 1 5
0 . 2 0
1 .oo 1 .oo
Procedure: D isperse Carbomer i n t o r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i z e d water .
Add remain ing p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat t o 75-80C and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m and lump- f ree . Combine p a r t B. Heat t o 80C and mix u n t i l a l l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . M ix f o r 30 minutes w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add p a r t C . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y smooth and homogeneous. Cool t o 50C. Add p a r t D . Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t E . Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 30C.
SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Lotions 293
Silk Protein Skin Lotion
1 . 2 . 3 . 4 . 5 . 6 . 7. 8 . 9 .
M i n e r a l O i l Mackester SP ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e M o d i f i e d ) E m u l s i f y i n g Wax N.F. G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e i3 PEG-100 S t e a r a t e P o l y s o r b a t e 80 S o r b i t a n P a l m i t a t e G l y c e r i n Acetamide MEA 100% Mackpro NSP ( O l e y l / P a l m i t y l / P a l m i t o l e a m i d o p r o p y l /
S i l k h y d r o x y p r o p y l Dimonium C h l o r i d e ) 1O.Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) 11. Fragrance 12. De ion i zed Water
Wei Qht .% 3 .00 2.00 3 .00 2 .00 0 . 6 6 0.60 2.00 1 .oo
2.50 qs q s q s
Procedure: 1 . M e l t 1 ,2,3,4,5,6,7,8, i n a separa te c o n t a i n e r t o 75 degrees C . 2 . I n t h e m i x i n g t a n k heat t h e water #12 t o 78 degrees C . and
3 . S t a r t m i x i n g and add t h e h o t m i x t u r e o f 1 t h r u 8 s l o w l y w i t h
4. Then s t a r t s low c o o l i n g w i t h good m i x i n g w i t h o u t a e r a t i o n . 5 . A t 45 degrees C . add #10 and #11 and mix i n . 6 . Check pH and a d j u s t i f needed t o 4 . 8 - 5 . 8 . 7 . M ix u n t i l c o o l .
add #9.
good a g i t a t i o n and mix w e l l f o r 20 minu tes .
Pearlescent Bath Lotion
Sodi um L a u r y l Sul f a t e Mackanate EL ( D i sod i urn L a u r e t h Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) Mackam 35 HP (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) Mackester SP ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e M o d i f i e d ) Sodium C h l o r i d e Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o
Wei a h t ,% 40.0 30.0
5 . 0 1 . 5 1 . o 0 . 5
100.0
Procedure: 1 . Add f i r s t f o u r components t o water and heat t o 70C. 2. B lend u n t i l EGMS i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . 3 . Add sodium c h l o r i d e and c o o l t o 45C. 4. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e , f r a g r a n c e and dye. 5 . Cool t o room tempera ture and f i l l .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group Ltd.: Personal Care Formulary
294 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Care Body Lotion
T h i s p r o d u c t i m p a r t s good s k i n f e e l and has a h i g h q u a l i t y appearance, though t h e p r o d u c t i o n i s c o s t e f f e c t i v e . There a r e a l s o b a r r i e r and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s which a c t as a h i g h l y e f f e c t i v e h y d r a t i o n system f o r a l l s k i n t y p e s . A fo rmula o f t h i s t y p e a1 so he1 p reduce t r a n s e p i dermal water 1 oss . O i l Phase: C e t y l s t e a r y l A lcoho l 161 8 (P&G) NF Whi te Beeswax (Kos ter Keunen) L i g h t M i n e r a l O i l (Wi tco) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Amerchol L l O l (Amerchol ) Propy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
Water Phase: Water (D i s t i 11 ed) G l y c e r i n e (Unichema) P o l y e t h y l e n e G l y c o l 1450 (Union Carb ide) Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e (CMC, Hercu les) Carbopol 940 (BF Goodr ich) Sodium B o r a t e (Borax) T r i e thano l ami ne (Dow) Methy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
3 .50% 1.50% 4.00% 1 .OO% 2 .00% 0.20%
76.05% 6.00% 3.50% 0.30% 0.25% 0.50% 0 * 20% 0.20%
Procedure: Add t o t h e water phase under a g i t a t i o n , i n o rder ; CMC u n t i l
d i s s o l v e d , t h e n p r o p y l paraben w h i l e m i x i n g . Add carbopo l , mix t i l l homogeneous making s u r e t h e r e a r e no agg lomera t ions . Then t h e remainder o f t h e water phase components can be added, mix and heat t o 75C. Add a l l t h e o i l phase components, h e a t t i l l 75C. and mix . Add s l o w l y t h e o i l phase t o t h e water phase under a g i t a - t i o n m a i n t a i n i n g a tempera ture o f 75C. When t h e o i l phase i s added, c o o l and pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r .
Adapt ion o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : By r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f m i n e r a l o i l by 2.0%,
p o l y e t h y l e n e g l y c o l 1000 by 0.5% and t h e a d d i t i o n o f 2.5% E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) t h e cream w i l l t a k e on an SPF o f 6-8. The p r o d u c t has t h e same appearance, s k i n f e e l and s t a b i l i t y . Fragrance can a l s o be added w i t h o u t a f f e c t i n g t e x t u r e .
SOURCE: Koster Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Lotions 295
Skin Moisturizing Lotion
Phase A : Percent P o l y p e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a l a u r a t e (M i rano l E s t e r PO-LM4) 4.00 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG 100 S t e a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 165) 5.00 Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 3.50 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e 2.00 Propy lene G l y c o l D ipe la rgona te (Emerest 2388) 1 - 0 0 Beeswax 2.00 S t e a r i c A c i d 1 .oo S t e a r y l A l coho l 0.50 Cyclomethicone (Dow Corn ing F l u i d 344) 0.50
Phase 8 : Water Carbomer 934, 3% s o l u t i o n (Carbopol 934) Propy lene G l y c o l
Phase C : T r i e thano lamine
Phase D: Germaben 1 1 - E
6 7 - 7 0 7 . 5 0 3.50
0 .80
1 - 0 0
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . Then add Phase C . Cool t o 40C and add Phase D. Heat Phase A & Phase 8 s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C and add B t o A w i t h
Dry Skin Lotion
Phase A : C e t y l A l coho l E s t o l EHP 1543 T r i v e n t NP-13 Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 DC S i l i c o n e B r i j 58 B r i j 20
Phase 8 : Dei o n i zed water Carbopol 940 Dermacryl-79 P r i c e r i ne 9083 T r i ethano l ami ne (99%)
Phase C: Germaben I 1 E
Phase D: Fragrance
2.00% 2 . 0 0 4 .00 1 .oo 1 .oo 1 .oo 1 . o o
81.50 0 .50 1 . oo 3.00 1 .oo
1 . oo
q . s .
SOURCE: Wi tco Corp . : Pe t ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
296 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Softening Lotion
%* A. G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 3.00
G l y c e r y l D i l a u r a t e (Lexemul GDL) 5.00 C e t e a r y l A1 coho1 (and) Ceteareth-20 (Lexemul CS-20) 3.00 Propylene G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e (Lexo l PG-865) 4.00 M i n e r a l O i l 2.50 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .10
B. G l y c e r i n USP 3.00 De ion ized Water 76.13 Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 0.25
C . Quaternium-76 Hydro lyzed Co l lagen ( L e x e i n QX-3000) 3.00 D. 2-Bromo-2-Ni t ropropane-1 ,3-Di 01 (Lexgard Bronopol ) 0 . 0 2 Procedure: 1 . Heat phase "A" and phase "B" t o 75C. 2. Add phase "A" t o phase "B" w i t h good a g i t a t i o n a t 75C. 3 . Cont inue t o mix w i t h good a g i t a t i o n and c o o l t o 50C. 4 . Add phase "C" t o "AB" and mix t i l l homogeneous. 5 . When phase "ABC" i s below 50C add phase "D". 6. Cont inues a g i t a t i o n and c o o l t o 30C, t h e n f i l l .
Formula 297-86
Skin Lotion
T h i s m o i s t u r i z i n g l o t i o n a p p l i e s e f f o r t l e s s l y . The Lexorez 100 adds an e l e g a n t s k i n f e e l which a l s o may a c t as a p r o t e c t a n t a i d .
9&& A . O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Lexo l EHS) 7.50
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 3 . 5 0 G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer
(Lexorez 100) 2 . 0 0 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .05
B. Carbomer (Carbopol 941) 0.30 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e NF (99%) 0.20 Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 0 .15 Dei o n i zed Water 86.30
Procedure: 1 . Heat water t o 70C and combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase "Bql . M i x
u n t i l a l l o f t h e Carbomer i s i n s o l u t i o n . 2 . I n a separa te v e s s e l , m e l t components q f phase "A" t o g e t h e r .
Heat t o 70C. 3 . S l o w l y add phase " A " t o phase "B" w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M i x
w e l l u n t i l homogeneous. 4 . Beg in t o c o o l . Cont inue a g i t a t i o n u n t i l m i x t u r e i s a t ambient
tempera ture t h e n f i l l . 5. A d j u s t f o r water loss.
Formula SK-114
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co.: Suggested Formula t ions
Lotions 297
Soft & Silky Lotion
P a r t ( A ) : Rosswax 63-0412 Rosswax 1641 Rosswax 63-0212
Ross L o t i o n O i l 2745
P a r t ( e ) : Water Propylene G lyco l Germaben I 1 T r i e thano l ami ne
P a r t (C): Fragrance
GMS-SE
1 . 6 1 . 2 1 . o 2 . 1 9 . 4
78.0 4 . 7 1 . o 1 . o
q . s .
Procedure: Heat P a r t (A) and P a r t ( B ) t o 170F i n separa te steam j a c k -
e ted k e t t l e s under a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y heated, add P a r t (A) t o P a r t (B) under a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 130F, Fragrance and package.
Low Cost Low Solids Lotion
Water Carbomer 934 Rosswax 573 GMS SE Jo joba O i 1 Dow Corn ing S i l i c o n e 344 T r i e thano l ami ne Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e Germaben I 1
P a r t s bv Wei q h t 500.0gr .
4 .0g r . 4 . 0 g r . 4 . 0 g r . 3 . 0 g r . 6 . 0 g r . 4 . 0 g r . q . s . 9 , s .
Procedure: Heat t h e water under a g i t a t i o n and s l o w l y add t h e Carbomer
934. When f u l l y mixed add t h e 573, GMS, Jo joba O i l and S i l i c o n e have been b lended i n a separa te k e t t l e m a i n t a i n i n g a tempera ture of 140F. As soon as a l l t h e i n g r e d i e n t s have been mixed w e l l add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e s , t h e Perfume, and add t h e TEA, under h i g h a g i t - a t i o n , coo l t o 120F and package.
SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
298 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Strawberry Hand Lotion
Water Carbomer 934
A p r i c o t O i l L i p o v a l P Rosswax 573 Coconut O i l #76
GMS-SE
Ross J o j o b a O i 1 TEA Germaben I 1 Fragrance DO-60
P a r t s bv Wei qht 568. Ogr
2. Ogr 4. Ogr
16.0gr 4 . 0 g r
16.0gr 4 .0gr 4. Ogr 6. Ogr q . s .
Procedure: Heat t h e water t o 60C under a g i t a t i o n and s l o w l y add t h e
Carbomer 934. When t h e water i s f u l l y mixed, add t h e 573, GMS, A p r i c o t O i l , Coconut O i l and Jo joba O i l t h a t have been heated t o 65C in a s e p a r a t e k e t t l e . As soon as t h e o i l phase has been mixed w e l l , add t h e Germaben 11, t h e f r a g r a n c e , and t h e n t h e TEA under h i g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 55C f o r f i l l i n g .
Apricot Hand Lotion
Water Carbomer 934
A p r i c o t O i l - L i p o v a l P Rosswax 573 Coconut O i l #76 Ross Jo joba O i l TEA Germaben I1 Fragrance GK-17
GMS-SE
P a r t s by Wei q h t 568. Ogr
2 . Ogr 4 . Ogr
16 .0gr 4. Ogr
16 .0gr 4 .0gr 4. Ogr 6 Ogr 9 , s .
Procedure: Heat t h e water t o 60C under a g i t a t i o n and s l o w l y add t h e
Carbomer 934. When t h e water i s f u l l y mixed, add t h e 573, GMS, A p r i c o t O i l , Coconut O i l and Jo joba O i l t h a t have been heated t o 65C i n a s e p a r a t e k e t t l e . As soon as t h e O i l Phase has been mixed w e l l , add t o t h e Water Phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y mixed, add t h e Germaben I1 and t h e n t h e TEA under h i g h a g i t - a t i o n , t h e n f r a g r a n c e . Cool t o 55C f o r f i l l i n g .
SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross Co., I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions 299
Super Moisturizing Lotion
Thi s s i 1 k y - f e e l i ng emu1 s i o n i s s t a b i 1 i zed and t h i c k e n e d u s i n g a s y n e r g i s t i c combina t ion o f Veegum Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e and Rhodigel Xanthan Gum. It a l s o c o n t a i n s t h e sodium s a l t o f p y r r o l i d o n e c a r b o x y l i c a c i d as a n a t u r a l m o i s t u r i z i n g f a c t o r a long w i t h t h e w e l l known humectant, g l y c e r i n e . T h i s l o t i o n spreads e a s i l y and i s q u i c k l y absorbed l e a v i n g t h e s k i n m o i s t and supp le .
InQred i e n t : A Veegum
Rhodi g e l Dei o n i zed Water
B Sodium PCA ( 2 ) G l y c e r i n e
C Hydrogenated Po ly isobutene ( 3 ) M i n e r a l O i l (and) L a n o l i n A lcoho l ( 4 ) C e t y l A lcoho l I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e S o r b i t a n P a l m i t a t e P o l y s o r b a t e 40
P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, Fragrance D C i t r i c A c i d t o pH 5 .5
% bv W t . 1 . o 0 .5
74 .5
3 . 0 5 . 0
4 .0 3 . 0 2.0 2 . 0 1 . 2 3 . 8
q . s . q . s .
( 2 ) A j idew N-50 ( 3 ) Po lysyn lane ( 4 ) Amerchol L-101
P r e p a r a t i o n : Dry b l e n d Veegum and Rhodigel and add t o t h e water , m i x i n g
w i t h maximum a v a i l a b l e shear u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Add B i n g r e d i e n t s and mix u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Mix C i n g r e d i e n t s and heat t o 50C u n t i l a u n i f o r m c l e a r m i x t u r e i s o b t a i n e d . Add C t o (A+B) w i t h h i g h speed m i x i n g . Avo id i n c o r p o r a t i n g a i r . Cool w i t h con- t i n u o u s s t i r r i n g t o 30C and add D.
Cons is tency : Medium V i s c o s i t y L o t i o n ( V i s c o s i t y : 1900-2400 cps)
Suggested Packaging: P l a s t i c squeeze b o t t l e o r pump.
Comments: T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s des igned t o serve as a gu ide f o r
t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r improvement o f e x i x t i n g ones.
SOURCE: R . T , V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n No. 437
300 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
TRF Facial Lotion
Phase A : Ce tea ry l A l coho l (and) Ceteare th-20 S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 60) S t e a r i c Ac id , t r i p l e pressed G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Emerest 2400) C e t e a r y l A l coho l C e t y l Ace ta te (and) A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n A l coho l C12-15 A l c o h o l s Benzoate ( F i n s o l v TN) PPG-15 S t e a r y l E the r (Ar lamol E) D i methi cone C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1
Phase B: Carbomer 941 (2% D i s p . ) (Carbopol 941) Magnesi urn Aluminum S i 1 i c a t e (Veegum) Potassium Hydrox ide ( p e l l e t s ) Te t rasod i um EDTA G l y c e r i n Water
Phase C : T i ssue R e s p i r a t o r y Fac to rs (Biodynes TRF) Germaben I 1 Fragrance
Percent 0.80 0 .50 0 .50 1 . o o 1.40 0 .50 0 .40 0 . 4 0 0 .20 3 . 0 0
7 .50 0 . 3 0 0 .15 0 . 1 0 3 .00
78 .55
0.70 0 .50 0 .50
Procedure: M e l t Phase A t o 75C. Heat water t o 70C and d i s p e r s e t h e
Veegum. Add t h e Carbopol s l u r r y and t h e g l y c e r i n and EDTA. Add t o Phase A and add t h e po tass ium hyd rox ide . Cool t o 50C and add Phase C .
Facial Moisturizing Lotion (W/O)
I n q r e d i e n t s : C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 A ldo MCT S y n t h e t i c Beeswax L a n o l i n Pol y a l do 10-6-0 De ion ized Water Sodi um Bora te G lydant P l u s
%Wt. 40.00
2 . 0 0 10.00
1 .00 2 . 5 0
43.90 0 . 6 0
q . s
SOURCE: W i t co Corp . : Petroleum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Lotions 301
Ultra Moisturizing Lotion
T h i s creamy, o i l - i n - w a t e r emuls ion i s t h i c k e n e d and s t a b i l i z e d w i t h a s y n e r g i s t i c combina t ion o f Veegum U l t r a and Carbomer. The wel l -known humectant g l y c e r i n pe r fo rms t h e m o i s t u r i z i n g f u n c t i o n . Veegum U l t r a a l s o enhances t h e wh i teness and b r i g h t n e s s o f t h e emuls ion and h e l p s a d j u s t t h e pH t o approx imate t h a t o f t h e s k i n . The l o t i o n spreads e a s i l y and i s r a p i d l y absorbed, l e a v i n g t h e s k i n m o i s t and supp le .
I n a r e d i e n t : % by W t . A Veegum U1 t r a (Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e ) 0 .15
Carbomer 980 ( 2 ) 0 .15 Dei o n i zed Water 73 .70
B G l y c e r i n 5 .00
C M i n e r a l O i l (and) L a n o l i n A l coho l ( 3 ) C e t y l A l coho l I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e Hydrogenated Po ly i sobu tene ( 4 ) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e S o r b i t a n P a l m i t a t e Po lyso rba te 40
D P r e s e r v a t i v e , Fragrance Sodium Hydrox ide , (10% S o l u t i o n ) t o pH 6 . 0
4 . 0 0 2.00 2 .00 5.00 3 .00 1 .20 3.80
( 2 ) Carbopol 980 ( 3 ) Amerchol L-101 ( 4 ) Polysyn lane
Dry b l e n d Veegum U l t r a and Carbomer and add them s l o w l y t o t h e Procedure:
water w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m ixe r a t 700 rpm. Inc rease t h e m ixe r speed t o 1500-1700 rpm and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 30 m inu tes . Add B and mix 5 m inu tes . M ix C i n g r e d i e n t s and hea t t o 50C. Heat (A and 6) m i x t u r e t o 5 0 C . Add C t o (A and B) and mix a t 50C and 1500-1700 rpm f o r 10 m inu tes . Slow t h e m ixe r t o 1000 rpm w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 30C. Add D and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m .
Produc t C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s : V i s c o s i t y : 2200-2800 cps pH: 6.0+-0.2
Comments:
t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e improvement of e x i s t i n g ones.
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., Inc.: Formula No. 450
T h i s p r o t o t y p e fo rmu la i s des igned t o se rve as a gu ide f o r
302 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Un-Buffered Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion
The r e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a t h i n l o t i o n t h a t would be c o m p a t i b l e f o r use i n a g l a s s o r r i g i d p l a s t i c b o t t l e . The f o r m u l a t i o n c o n t a i n s L a c t i c Ac id , as t h e a lpha hydroxy a c i d (AHA), a t a use l e v e l o f approx imate ly 4.5%.
A . De ion ized Water Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 2,4-D ich lo robenzy l A lcoho l (Myacide SP)
80.50 0 .20 0.20
B. G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) S tearamidoethy l D i e t h y l a m i n e (Lexemul AR) 1 .50
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 1 . 5 0 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 4.00 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Lexo l GT-865) 3 .00 Stearamidopropyl Dimethy lamine (Lexamine S-13) 2 .00 M i n e r a l O i l NF ( L i g h t ) 2.00 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0.10
C . L a c t i c A c i d (88%) 5 .00
Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A" h e a t i n g t o 75-8OC. Use a p r o p e l l e r mixer
2 . Combine s e c t i o n "B" h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. A g i t a t e s l o w l y w i t h
3 . When s e c t i o n s "A" & "BII a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g -
4. Reduce m i x i n g speed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g . 5 . A t 55-60C add s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t i o n s "AB".
f o r a g i t a t i o n .
a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r .
na ted tempera tures s l o w l y add "B'l t o "A", t h e n b e g i n c o o l i n g .
6 . A t 45C a d j u s t f o r water loss. 7. Mix t o room tempera ture .
P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s : V i s c o s i t y : 700 cPs @ 24C ( B r o o k f i e
pH: 2 . 3 @ 24C 24 hour sample
SOURCE: Inolex Chemical Co.: Formulat
d RVT, TA @ 10 rpm) .
on 398-30-3
Lotions 303
W/O Lotion
A . M i g l y o l 840 Gel B M i g l y o l 840 M i g l y o l 812 A r l a c e l 481 A r l a c e l 989 I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e Vase1 i ne
6 . G l y c e r o l Magnesi um su lpha te Carbopol 934 Water
C . Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e
% 4 . 0 7 . 5 5 . 0 3 . 0 5 . 0 5 .0 2 . 0
5 . 0 0 . 7 0 . 2
t o 1 0 0 . 0
Prepara t i on : The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and heated t o 75-8OC.
Those o f B . a r e mixed w i t h a h i g h speed s t i r r e r , heated t o t h e same tempera ture and e m u l s i f i e d , i n smal l amounts, i n A . w i t h t h e h i g h speed s t i r r e r . C . i s added a t approx . 3 0 C .
Body Lotion
A . M i g l y o l 840 I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s Marlophor T10 Na s a l t C e t y l a l c o h o l
B. Hos tace r in g e l 1%* Ka r ion F Water
C . Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e
7 . 0 4 . 0 2 . 0 0 . 3
12 .5 5 . 0
t o 100.0
qs qs
P r e p a r a t i o n : The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and heated t o 75-8OC. Those
o f 6. a r e b rough t t o t h e same tempera ture and g r a d u a l l y s t i r r e d i n t o A . C . i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t approx. 3 0 C .
*P repara t i on o f t h e H o s t a c e r i n g e l : Hos tace r in PN73 1 .O% Water t o 100.0%
The H o s t a c e r i n i s mixed w i t h water u n t i l homogeneous and t h e m i x t u r e s t i r r e d u n t i l t h e g e l i s c l e a r .
SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons for Cosmetics: Formulas
304 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W/O Lotion with Eldew I n a r e d i en ts /Trade Name: YO by Weight P a r t A : D i - ( C h o l e s t e r y l , beheny l , o c t y l d o d e c y l ) N-Lauroy l -L -g lu tamic a c i d es ter /E ldew CL-301 2 . 0 0 C e t e a r y l Octanoate 10.00 C12-Cl5 A l k y l Benzoate 5 . 0 0 Phenoxyethanol 0 .60 Tocopheryl Ace ta te 0 . 0 5 P a r t B : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l D imeth icone Copo lyo l (and) Hexyl Laura te 5 . 0 0
C e t y l D imeth icone 3 .00 P a r t C : Dei o n i zed Water 65.55 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8 0 G l y c e r i n (99.5%) 5 .00 P a r t i a l l y Deace ty la ted C h i t i n ( l . O % ) / M a r i n e Dew 2 .00
Methylparaben 0.20
Procedure:
A . Pre-melt p a r t D by h e a t i n g t o 50 degrees C . Add t o p a r t C . S low ly add P a r t C and D m i x t u r e t o P a r t s A and B w i t h h i g h shear m i x i ng.
P a r t D :
Bu ty lene G1 yco l 0 . 8 0
Pre-mel t p a r t A a t 50 degrees Cen t ig rade . Add p a r t B t o p a r t
Appearance: White, smooth, s h i n y l o t i o n pH: 6.0-6.5 V i s c o s i t y : 20,000-20,000 (RVT #6 @ lOrpm @ 25 degrees C)
I n g r e d i e n t s : % Weight Phase A : M i n e r a l O i l 5 . 0 0 Ami te r LGOD 2 . 0 0 Propy lene G lyco l S t e a r a t e 0 . 5 0 PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 1 . 5 0 PEG-5 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e 2 . 5 0
A m i hope-LL 3 .00 Phase B: Acy l g l utamate HS-1 1 0 . 3 0 Carbomer 941 0 . 2 0 Sodi um Hydrox i de 0 . 0 8 Bu ty lene G l y c o l 5 . 0 0
Water 79.62
Mild Lotion with Amihope
Buty lparaben 0 .10
Methylparaben 0 . 2 0
Procedure:
Add a l l o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o t h e s o l u t i o n and d i s s o l v e a t 75 t o 80 degrees c e n t i g r a d e .
b o t h phases a r e a t BO degrees c e n t i g r a d e add A t o B w i t h a g i t a t i o n .
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Formulat ion
D i s s o l v e Carbomer 941 and Sodium Hydrox ide i n water f i r s t .
D i s s o l v e Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s a t BO degrees c e n t i g r a d e . When
Cool down t o room tempera ture w h i l e c o n t i n u i n g m ix ing . T h i s l o t i o n has a smooth f e e l i n g and good s p r e a d a b i l i t y .
306 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Acid Balanced Conditioning Shampoo
Wei TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e (40%) Mackam 35HP (Cocamidopropyl Be ta ine ) Mackalane 426 ( I sos tea ramidopropy l Morpho l i ne L a c t a t e ) Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o
Procedure: 1 . Add components t o water and hea t t o 40 degrees C . 2. Blend u n t i l c l e a r . 3 . A d j u s t pH t o 4.0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 4. Cool and f i 11.
All Purpose Shampoo
ht,96 35.0 10.0 6.0
qs 00.0
Mackadet SBC-8 ( M i I d B lend) Sodium C h l o r i d e Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o
Weiaht,% 2 0 . 0
qs qs
100.0
Procedure: 1 . Add Mackadet SBC-8 t o water and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 2. Add Macks ta t DM and a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y t o 2000-3000 cps w i t h
3. Add dye, f rag rance , and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . sodium c h l o r i d e .
Aloe Vera Gel Shampoo
A loe Vera Gel L i q u i d (1:l) Water Mackernium 007 (Po lyqua te rn ium 7 ) Mackadet SBC-8 (Mi I d B lend) Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) Fragrance, Dye qs t o
Wei q h t .% 5 0 . 0 14.5 3.0 32.0
qs 100.0
Procedure: 1 . Disperse Mackernium 007 i n water and A loe Vera L i q u i d . 2. Add Mackadet SBC-8 and hea t t o 45 degrees C . 3. Blend u n t i l homogeneous. 4. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . 5 . Add rema in ing components and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 6. Cool and f i l l .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary
Shampoos 307
Aloe Vera Shampoo
A.
8 .
C.
I n s r e d i e n t s : D . I. Water A loe Veragel 200 Powder Sodium C h l o r i d e Hydro lyzed animal p r o t e i n
Sodi u m 1 a u r y l s u l f a t e C i t r i c a c i d Fragrance D.M.D.M. Hydanto in Germal l 115 ( p r e s e r v a t i v e )
R i chami de 1 i q u i d
Percent 64.04
0.1 1 .3 1 . o
26.0 0 .40 0 .15 0.20 0.10
6.0
Procedure:
Phase "A" . B lend t o g e t h e r . Add Phase "C" and mix t o g e t h e r . M i x Phase ' IA" t o g e t h e r . M i x Phase "Btl t o g e t h e r and add t o
Aloe Vera Premium-Type Shampoo with Protein
I n n r e d i e n t s : A loe Veragel 1 : l C y c l o r y l WAT C y c l o t e r i c BET-C3O P e p t e i n 2000 Cycl omi de DC212S NaCl C i t r i c A c i d Perfume, P r e s e r v a t i v e , C o l o r
Percent 28.0 60.0
5.0 1 .o 4 .0 1 .o q . s . q . s .
Procedure: Warm A loe Veragel and WAT t o 40C, and b l e n d i n i n g r e d i e n t s
as l i s t e d . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h NaCl and a d j u s t pH w i t h C i t r i c A c i d .
SOURCE: D r . Madis L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
308 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Anti-Dandruff Lotion Shampoo
Weight,% P a r t A: Veegum 1 . o Methocel FYM 0 .8 Water qs t o 100.0 P a r t B: Sodium O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e (40%) 3 5 . 0 Mackamide LLM (Lauramide DEA) 4 .0 Mackamide S (Soyamide DEA) 1 . o Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n )
( N a t u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 2 .o P a r t C: Z i n c Omadine (48%) 4 . 0
Procedure: 1 . Thoroughly d i s p e r s e Veegum i n water a t 70 degrees C. 2 . Then s l o w l y add Methocel FYM and b l e n d u n t i l homogeneous. 3. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and a d j u s t pH t o 6 - 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 4 . Add Z i n c Omadine and b l e n d u n t i l homogeneous.
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Cream Type
Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (30%) Mackam 35HP (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) Sodium C h l o r i d e T r i p l e Pressed S t e a r i c A c i d Mackamide LLM (Lauramide DEA) Propylene G l y c o l Z i n c P y r i t h i o n e (48%) Mackami de PK (Pa l mkernel ami de DEA) C a u s t i c Soda (50%) Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in) Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o
Weiaht.% 61 . 8 10 .0 7.0 5 . 0 4 . 0 4.0 4 . 0 2.0 1 .6
qs 100.0
Procedure: 1. Heat s t e a r i c a c i d , Mackamide LLM, Mackamide PKM and propy lene
2 . Heat SLS, Mackam 35HP, Sodium C h l o r i d e , C a u s t i c Soda and water
3. Add o i l t o water and c o o l t o 55 degrees C . 4. S l o w l y add Z i n c P y r i t h i o n e . 5. Cool t o 45 degrees C . and add remain ing components. 6. F i l l a t 40 degrees C .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary
g l y c o l t o 70 degrees C.
t o 70 degrees C .
Shampoos 309
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo
A n t i - d a n d r u f f shampoo: w i t h c o n d i t i o n i n g a c t i o n coup led w i t h n a t u r a l suspension r e s u l t i n g i n c o s m e t i c a l l y e l e g a n t , h i g h l y e f f i c a c o u s a n t i - d a n d r u f f shampoo.
I n q r e d i e n t s : %w/w 1 . Sodium Laure th-3 S u l f a t e (Stand-
apol ES-3) 57.69 2 . P a t i o n i c ISL/85* 3.00
3 . R i t a EGDS ( G l y c o l D i s t o a r a t e ) 3 . 0 0 4 . Propylene G lyco l 2 .00 5 . Z inc Omadine 2 .00 6 . Ri tavena-5 (Hydro lyzed Oat F l o u r ) 4.50 7 . Fragrance 0 .25 8 . P a t l a c LA (44%) ( L a c t i c Ac d ) 0 .40 9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 27.16
* Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l Lac ty
Func t i on
La the r , C lean ing C o n d i t i o n i n g ,
Deposi t i on Opac i t y , S tab i 1 i t y S t a b i 1 i t y Ac t i ve Suspensi on, C1 ean Feel Odor pH Adjustment ----
a t e @ 85% i n Propy lene G lyco l
Compounding Procedure: Pre-mix i t ems 1 t o 4 a t 165F. Add i t e m 5 w i t h h
m i x i n g . Hydra te i t e m 6 i n 210F wa te r . Cool t o 165F Cool t o 120F. Add perfume and a d j u s t pH and v i s c o s
Ref . No. 113-141C
gh sheer and m ix . t Y .
Cleaning Shampoo Type
Clear viscous shampoo designed for oily hair types.
I n q r e d i e n t s : 1 . Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (S tepano l
AM 1
apol EA-2) 2 . Ammonium Laure th S u l f a t e (Stand-
3 . 01 eamidopropyl B e t a i ne ( M i r a t a i ne
4. R i t a l o e 40X (A loe Vera G e l ) 5 . P a t i o n i c ISL (Na I s o s t e a r o y l
6 . Kathon CG 7 . Fragrance - Squeeky Clean #165-047 8. C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) 9. D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Wter
BET-0-30)
L a c t y l a t e )
%w/w F u n c t i o n
30.00 C1 eani ng, La the r
25.00 C lean ing , La the r
6 .00 Mi ldness , V i s c o s i t y 0 .50 No S t a t i c Fly-Away
2.50 M i l d n e s s , C o n d i t i o n i n g 0 . 3 0 P r e s e r v a t i o n 0.03 Odor
q.s.pH Adjustment 35.67 ----
Compounding Procedure:
u n i f o r m i t y . Cool t o 120F and add p r e s e r v a t i v e and perfume. A d j u s t pH i f necessary t o 5 . 8 .
To t h e water add i n g r e d i e n t s 1 t o 5 . Heat t o 165F. Mix t o
Re f . No. 118-69
SOURCE: R . I .T .A . Carp . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
310 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Anti-Dandruff Shampoos
0 40/39: Ze teso l 856 T 25.0% Amphotensid 0 4 4.0% 0 i o - s u l p h u r CLR 1 . O % Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e ,
p r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . t o make 100.0%
0 41/24: Ze teso l 856T 20.0% P e r l g l anzmi t t e l GM 41 75 4.0% Condi pon 4.0% Ant i -dandru f f -Usnat A 0 2.0% Perfume 0.3% Water, sodium c h l o r i d e , p r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . t o make 100.0%
0 41/26: Ze teso l 2056 Amphotensid 0 4 P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4175 A n t i - d a n d r u f f - U s n a t A 0 Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i ve
28.0% 8.0% 4.0% 2.0% 0.5%
9,s. t o make 100.0%
Shampoos for Greasy Hair
0 40/56: Ze teso l 856 T M u l s i f a n RT 275 Pur ton SFD Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e
0 41/27: Ze teso l 2056 Amphotensid 0 4 P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4175 M u l s i f a n RT 275 Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e
30.0% 2.0% 1 .O%
q . s . t o make 100.0%
28.0% 8.0% 4.0% 1 .O% 0.5%
q . s . t o make 100.0%
SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH: Suggested Formula t ions
Shampoos 311
Antidandruff Shampoo
M a t e r i a l s : 1 . De ion ized Water 2 . Bentone MA Rheo log ica l A d d i t i v e 3 . Methocel E 4M Premium 4 . Z i n c Omadine 48% 5 . Super Amide GR 6 . Standapol T 7 . Tr ie thano lamine 8 . Co lo r and Fragrance
% bv Weight 48.55
1 . o o 0.75 4.20 4.00
3 8 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 0 .50
Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Heat De ion ized Water t o 70C, and w i t h r a p i d s t i r r i n g , add
Bentone MA a d d i t i v e s l o w l y and mix i t f o r 20 minu tes or u n t i l homogeneous. M a i n t a i n t h e tempera ture th rough s t e p 4 .
s t i r r i n g . 2 . Add Methocel and mix i t f o r 15 minu tes w i t h con t inuous
3 . Add Z i n c Omadine and mix f o r 5 m inu tes . 4. Reduce t h e s t i r r e r speed and a t low speed add Super Amide GR.
5. Turn o f f t h e heat and w h i l e c o o l i n g , add Standapol T . Mix f o r
6 . Add T r ie thano lamine and c o l o r s o l u t i o n , s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l
Mix f o r 10 m inu tes .
15 minu tes a t low speed.
mixed. A d j u s t t h e water l o s s and c o o l i t t o room tempera tu re . Add f r a g r a n c e and mix i t .
SOURCE: Rheox, I n c a : Fo rmu la t i on TS-261
Protein Shampoo
Deion ized Water Busan 1504 Panthenol D i sod i um EDTA C i t r i c A c i d A loe Vera 2 0 0 X Sodi um Laure th-2 S u l f a t e Cocamide DEA Cocami dopropy l B e t a i ne Hydro lyzed Co l lagen Pro te in -55%
42.85 0 . 1 0 0.25 0 . 0 5 0 . 2 0 0.05
42.00 4.00 5 .50 5 . 0 0
Procedure:
so l ved . F o l l o w w i t h rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r shown, m i x i n g w e l l between each a d d i t i o n .
SOURCE: Buckman L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on
Add Busan 1504 p r e s e r v a t i v e i n t o wa te r , and mix u n t i l d i s -
312 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Balsam & Protein Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s : A CP 1052 (shampoo base)
Water Hydro lyzed Co l lagen (Hormel-Peptein 2000x1) Balsam
B NaCl
Procedure:
%B 31.50 67.20
0 .25 0 . 2 5
0 .80
Add water t o shampoo base w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add P r o t e i n and balsam w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . S low ly add s a l t under f a s t e r s t i r r i n g t o b u i l d v i s c o s i t y . Formula CP 1060
Balsam & Protein Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s : A G-9600 (shampoo base)
Water Hydro lyzed Co l lagen (Hormel-Peptein 2000x1) Balsam
B * P r e s e r v a t i v e
*q . s . t hese i ngred i e n t s .
Procedure:
P r o t e i n and balsam w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Formula CP 1067
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Add water t o shampoo base w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add
w&9J 31 . 5 0 68.17
0 .30 0 . 0 3
Shampoos 313
Cleaning Shampoo
Viscous, h i g h foaming shampoo which maximizes c l e a n i n g b y removing s t y l i n g and r e s i d u e s f rom h a i r .
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . Sodium (C14-Cl6) O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e
2 . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e @ 25% 3 . R i tamide C (Cocamide DEA) 4. Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Mackam 35 HP) 5. R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 6 . P a t i o n i c ISL (Na I s o s t e a r y l L a c t y l a t e ) 7 . Kathon CG 8 . Fragrance--Nature Harves t #165-050 9. C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) 10.Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . )
( B i o t e r g e AS 40)
w 20.00 2 0 . 0 0
3.00 3 .00 1 .oo 2.50 0.03 0 . 3 0
q . s . q . s .
11 . D i s t i 1 l e d Water 50.17
F u n c t i o n
C lean ing , L a t h e r C lean ing , L a t h e r L a t h e r D e n s i t y M i ldness V i s c o s i t y Mi ldness , Body P r e s e r v a t i o n Odor pH Adjustment V i s c o s i t y Adjustment
Compounding Procedure:
120F and add f ragrance and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Cool t o 95F and a d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 and v i s c o s i t y as d e s i r e d .
To t h e water add i n g r e d i e n t s 1 t o 6 i n o r d e r a t 165F. Cool t o
Ref . No. 118-18
Cleaning Shampoo
N e u t r a l i z i n g shampoo t o t h o r o u g h l y c l e a n h a i r . Can be used a f t e r r e l a x e r o r h a i r s t r a i g h t e n e r t r e a t m e n t s .
I nared i e n t s : %m F u n c t i o n 1 . A lpha O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e ( B i o t e r g e AS-40) 37.50 C lean ing , No
Residue 2 . P a t i o n i c ISL (Na I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3 .00 Rinse Out,
Combing 3 . R i tamide C (Cocamide DEA) 3.00 Bubble Toughness 4. Fragrance-Nature Harves t 165-050 0.30 Odor 5 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) q .s .pH Adjustment
Compounding Procedure:
i tems 3 and 4 and add a t 120F. Thoroughly mix and a d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .
6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 5 6 - 2 0 - --------------
To t h e water a t 165F add 1 and 2. Cool t o 120F. Pre-mix
Ref . No. 118-51
SOURCE: R.I.T.A, Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
314 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s : A Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , 26% s o l u t i o n
Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e , 28% s o l u t i o n Cocoamphocarboxypropionate, 38% s o l . Laurami de DEA Tween 20 Water
B F o r e s t a l l C * C i t r i c a c i d
%w/w 15.50 15.00 12.50
3 . 0 0 2 . 0 0
50.60 i .40
* q . s . t hese i ngred i e n t s .
Procedure:
Add (B). A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 t o 5 . 5 w i t h ( C ) . M ix (A) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g and heat u n t i l homogeneous.
Conditioning Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s : A CP 1052 (shampoo base)
Water Polyquaternium-11 (Gafquat 755)
B Hydroxypropy l m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (Methocel E4M)
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
56w/w 31.50 66.84
1 .32 0 .34
Procedure: Add water t o shampoo base w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add
po lyqua te rn ium w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . Heat ( A ) t o 8OC and s l o w l y add hydroxypropy l m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e w i t h f a s t e r s t i r r i n g . S t i r w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n u n t i l coo led t o room tempera ture . Formula PC 1057
Conditioning Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s : A CP 1052 (Shampoo base)
Water Polyquaternium-11 (Gafquat 755)
0 NaCl
%w/w 31.50 67.40
1 .00 0.10
Procedure: Add water t o shampoo base w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add
G l y c e r i n and Ar lamol E w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . Heat ( A ) t o 80C and add g l y c o l s t e a r a t e w i t h f a s t s t i r r i n g . S t i r w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n u n t i l coo led t o room tempera ture and s t i r N a C l . Formula CP 1062
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Shampoos 315
Conditioning Shampoo
I n a r e d i e n t s : A Polyox WSR
Water
V i tam in E P r o t e i n NaCl Panthenol
B *Co lor *P rese rva t *Fragrance
*q. s . t hes
G-9600
Procedure:
%w/w 0 .02
71 .38 25.00
1 . o o 1 . o o 0.60 1 . o o
ve
i ngred i e n t s
Add t h e Polyox WSR t o t h e water u n t i l comp le te l y d i s s o l v e d w i t h hea t i f necessary . Add t h e rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s .
Conditioning Shampoo
I n a r e d i e n t s : A G-9600 (Shampoo base)
Water Polyquaternium-11 (Gafquat 7 5 5 )
* P r e s e r v a t i v e * q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
B NaCl
%w/w 31 . 5 0 68.01
0 . 3 0 0 .19
Procedure: Add water t o shampoo base w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add p o l y -
quatern ium w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . S low ly add s a l t and s t i r w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . Formula CP 1064
Professional Salon Type Shampoo
I n a r e d i e n t s : A CP 1052 (shampoo base)
Water Roche-DL-Panthenol Cosmetic Grade Calgon Merquat 550
B NaCl
%w/w 31 3 0 65.40
0 .50 2 . 5 0 0 . 1 0
Procedure: Add water t o shampoo base w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add
Panthenol and po lyquatern ium-7 w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . S low ly add s a l t under f a s t e r s t i r r i n g t o b u i l d v i s c o s i t y . Formula PC 1058
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
316 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning Shampoo
I n n r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : De ion i zed Water SLES ( 3 mol ) D i sod i um EDTA
49.05 40.00
0 . 3 0
P a r t B: I nc romi de LR (Laurami de DEA) 5 . 5 0 Inc romide CAC (Cocamide DEA Cocoyl Sarcos ine) 1 . o o Incromi ne Oxi de BA (Babassuami dopropy l ami ne Ox ide) 2 . 0 0 I n c r o d e t TD-7C ( T r i d e c e t h - 7 C a r b o x y l i c A c i d ) 0 . 1 5
P a r t C : H y d r o t r i t i c u m 2000 (Hydro lyzed Whole Wheat P r o t e i n ) 0 . 5 0 Crodacel QS ( S t e a r y l d i m o n i um Hydroxypropy l Oxyethy l
C e l l u l ose) 0 . 5 0 Propy lene G1 yco l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and) Methy l
Paraben (and) P ropy l Paraben* 1 . o o
Procedure:
Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h m i x i n g , and coo l ba tch t o 45C. Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h a 10% c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n . Con t i nue m i x i ng and coo l t o des i r e d f i 11 tempera tu re .
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and hea t t o 65-7OC.
pH: 5 . 5 + - 0 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 6 ,500 cps t -10% *Germaben I 1 N . A . T . C . Approved Formula SH-71
Cold Mix Shampoo w/Crosultaine C-50
I n n r e d i e n t s : SS P a r t A : Dei o n i zed Water 5 9 . 8 5 Inc romide CA (Cocamide DEA) 2 . 0 0 P a r t 8: Teal s 25.00 Inc romide BAD (Babassuamide DEA) 1 .oo I n c r o s u l t a i n e C-50 (Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e ) 8 . 0 0 Croquat L ( L a u r y l d i moni urn Hydroxypropy l Col 1 agen) 0 . 2 5 C i t r i c A c i d (10% So ln ) 2 .90 Propy lene G l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) Methy l
Paraben (and) P ropy l Paraben* 1 . o o
Procedure:
P a r t 6 i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH w i t h a 10% c i t r i c a c i d . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f
pH: 6 . 5 t - 0 . 5 *Germaben I 1 N . A . T . C . Approved Formula SH-78
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Shampoos 317
Conditioning Shampoo
I n n r e d i e n t s : Phase A : Water, Dei o n i zed Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e (Standapol ES-1) Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (Standapol WAQ-Speci a1 ) Lauramide DEA (Monamid 716) Quaternium-22 (Ceraphy l 60) Quaternium-26 (Ceraphyl 65) C i t r i c A c i d ( F i n e Granu la r , 30% Aq. S o l u t i o n ) Sodium C h l o r i d e
Phase B: Sodium Hydroxymethy lg l yc ina te ( S u t t o c i d e A )
Phase C : Fragrance ( F l o r a l Spice-NP49)
Processed I n g r e d i e n t : D & C Green No. 5 (0.1% Aq. S o l . ) FD & C Green No. 5 (0.1% Aq. S o l . )
w 50.32 20 IO0 20.00 3 -00 2.00 2.00 1 .40 0.08
0 .40
0 .50
0.19 0 .11
Procedure: 1 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n Phase A w i t h m ix ing , b e i n g c a r e f u l n o t
2 . Cool Phase A t o 40C. Add Phase B w i t h slow m i x i n g . 3. Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n Phase C w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . 4 . Sweep t o 25C.
SOURCE: ISP Van Dyk I n c . : Fo rmu la t i on #09843-85-1
t o a e r a t e ba tch , heat t o 75C.
Everyday Hair Shampoo
I n s r e d i e n t s : 1 A ) Genapol LRO l i q u i d
2 6 ) Water demine ra l i zed 3 Phenoni p 4 Euxyl K-200
5 C) Genapol AMG 6 S e r i c i n 7 Sodium C h l o r i d e 8 Fragrance: Ad r iano 0/235970 9 Genagen CAB 10 D) Sodiumhydroxyd s o l u t i o n 30%
% w / w 35,OO
39,90 0,50 0,30
8,OO 3,OO 3,OO 0,30
10,oo
Procedure:
i t e m 1 . Then add and d i s s o l v e i t ems 5-9 one a f t e r ano the r . A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h i t ems 10 t o pH 6-7.
SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : A p p l i c a t i o n No. F Oll.A/05.94
D i s s o l v e i t e m 3 and 4 i n water ( 2 ) . D i s s o l v e phase 6 ) i n
31 8 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning ShampooA g e n t l e , p e a r l i z e d , modera te ly v i s c o u s shampoo t o t h o r o u g h l y
c leanse and c o n d i t i o n h a i r . He lps m a i n t a i n i d e a l m o i s t u r e ba lance and leaves h a i r w i t h added s o f t n e s s , manageab i l i t y and body.
% by Weight P a r t A : De ion i zed Water 50 .28
Polyquaternium-10 (Ce lquat SC-240) 00 .25 Panthenol (d l -Pan theno l ) 00.20 Methylparaben 00.15 Cocami dopropy l Be ta ine ( C y c l o t e r i c BET C-30) 06.00 G l y c o l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul EGMS) 01 . o o Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e (Standapol ES-2) 20.00
P a r t C : Quaternium-75 ( F i n q u a t CT) 01 . o o Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and)
Methy l i s o t h i a z o l i none (Kathon CG) 00.08 Fragrance (Givaudan #PSC 10,435/6) 00.30 C i t r i c A c i d 00 .04 Sodium C h l o r i d e 01.20
TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate (Ami s o f t CT-12) 16.00 P a r t B : Cocamide DEA (Cyclomide DC 212/S) 03 .50
Compounding Procedure: D ispe rse Ce lquat SC-240 i n t h e w a t e r . Heat t o 70C. Add t h e
r e s t o f P a r t A . M ix u n t i l comp le te l y u n i f o r m . S t a r t c o o l i n g . A t 60C, add Cyclomide DC 212/S. A t 40C, add P a r t C i n t h e g i v e n o r d e r .
C o l o r : O f f - w h i t e ( p e a r l i z e d ) pH: 5.50 V i s c o s i t y ( @ 25C): 5 . 0 0 0 cps (#4 s p i n d l e
Gentle Shampoo A c l e a r , modera te ly v i scous shampoo t h a t
l u b r i c o u s l a t h e r and s o f t n e s s t o t h e h a i r . f o rmu la i s ex t reme ly g e n t l e and p r o v i d e s ef w i t h o u t ha rsh s t r i p p i n g .
P a r t A : De ion ized Water Methylparaben Lauroamphoglycinate (and) T r i d e c e t h
(Mi r a n o l MHT)
@ 10 rpm
o r o v i des r i c h , anced eansi ng
he pH-ba e c t i v e c
% by Weiqht 45.55% 0 0 . 2 0
30.00 S u l f a t e
TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate (Amiso f t CT-12) 20.00 Sodi um Cocoyl G1 utamate ( A m i s o f t CS-11 ) 01 .oo
Sodium PCA (A j i dew N-50) 01 .oo
Fragrance ( N o v i l l e #84504) 00.20
PEG-1 50 D i s t e a r a t e 01.50
P a r t B: M e t h y l c h l o r o i s o t h i a z a o l i none (and) M e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e (Kathon CG) 00.05
C i t r i c A c i d 00.50 Compounding Procedure:
40C. Add P a r t B . Heat P a r t A t o 65C u n t i l comp le te l y homogeneous. Cool t o
C o l o r : L i g h t s t r a w - c l e a r pH: 5.65 V i s c o s i t y : 3,750 cps (#4 s p i n d l e '3 10 r p m )
SOURCE: A j inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Shampoos 319
Conditioning Shampoo
% bv Wei a h t Water 45.35 Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e (2 Mole 26%) 20.00
Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e and D i sodi urn L a u r y l 20.00
T r i sod ium Lauroampho PG Ace ta te Phosphate C h l o r i d e 10.00
(Sipon ES2)
S u l f o s u c c i n a t e (Monaterge 1164)
(Phosphoter i c QL-38) Dimethicone (Dow Corn ing 200 F l u i d 200 CS) 2.50 G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e (Kessco E thy lene G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ,
Armak) 1 .oo Cocamide MEA (Monamid CMA) 1 .oo Sodi um C h l o r i d e 0.15
Procedure:
Cool t o 40C. A d j u s t pH t o 5 .5 t o 6.0 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . Add f rag rance , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d .
Formul a t i on P r o p e r t i 8s : Phys ica l Appearance: White p e a r l e d l o t i o n V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 7,100 cps
Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Heat t o 70C.
Formul a F-578
Mild Conditioning Shampoo
Water Mona te r i c CLV Phosphol i p i d EFA Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) Sodium Laure th ( 2 ) S u l f a t e
% bv Weiclht 34 .0
8 . 5 1 . 5
27.0 29.0
Procedure:
c i t r i c a c i d .
T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i ea:
Blend i n o r d e r l i s t e d , a d j u s t pH down 5.5 t o 6.0 w i t h 50%
Appearance: C lea r L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: Approx imate ly 17,000 cps.
Formula F-644
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
320 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cream Shampoo
Wei n h t ,% Mackanate LO-Special (Disodium L a u r y l S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 88 .0 Mackol 16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 .0 B r i j 52 2.0 Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, F ragrance qs t o 100.0
S o l i d s , %: 40.0 pH (as i s ) : 5 .5 Appearance: P e a r l y Cream
Procedure : 1 . Add Mackol 16, B r i j 52 and water t o Mackanate LO-Special
2 , B1 end u n t i 1 homogeneous. 3. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 t o 6.0 w i t h sodium hyd rox ide . 4. Cool t o 50 degrees C . and add Macks ta t DM and f r a g r a n c e . 5 . A d j u s t s o l i d t o 4O.Ot-1.0 a t t h i s p o i n t . 6. Cool and f i l l .
and hea t t o 70 degrees C .
Highly Pearlescent Shampoo
Sodium L a u r y l E the r S u l f a t e 60% Mackamide C (Cocamide DEA ( 1 : 1) Mackester SP ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e M o d i f i e d ) S t e a r i c A c i d Magnesium S u l f a t e ( 7 H 2 0 ) D i e thano l ami ne Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) De ion ized Water, Fragrance, Dye qs t o
pH: 7 .5 -8 .0 V i s c o s i t y (cps 25 degrees C ) : 1000-2500
Weight ,% 20.0
2 .0 2 . 0 2 .0 6.0 0.67
qs 100.0
Procedure: 1 . Heat water t o 75 degrees C . and add Magnesium S u l f a t e . 2. D i s s o l v e comp le te l y then add o t h e r s u r f a c t a n t s and DEA t h e n
3. Keep tempera ture a t 70 degrees C . f o r 20 minu tes s t a r t
4 . A t 35 degrees C . add remainder o f i n g r e d i e n t s and coo l w h i l e
5 . A d j u s t pH w i t h DEA o r S u l f u r i c A c i d d i l u t e d s o l u t i o n s .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary
add waxes.
cool i ng slow1 y . m i x i ng t o room tempera ture I
Shampoos 321
Emollient Shampoo
I n q r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E
A r l a c e l 186
B Tween 20
C Water, d e i o n i zed Tensagex EOC-670
D Sodi um Cocoyl Sa rcos i n a t e Lau ry l Po lyg lucose
%&& 0 . 5 0 0 .50
4.00
71 . O O 6 .00
6 .00 8 . 0 0
E PEG 6000 D i s t e a r a t e 4 . 0 0 Procedure:
Mix (A) and add (B). Mix u n t i l c . lear and add (C) s l o w l y . M i x ( D ) and w i t h s l i g h t hea t and add t o (A,B,C). Heat t o 65C and add ( E ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g .
Moisturizing Shampoo
I n q r e d i e n t s : A CP 1052 (shampoo base)
Water G1 yce r i ne Ar lamol E , I C 1 (PPG-15 s t e a r y l e t h e r ) Jo joba O i l
%&& 31.50 66.50
0 .50 0 . 2 5 0 .25
i n an g l y c o u n t i 1 Formu
B G l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e (Stepan-Kessco E t h y l e n e G l y c o l
Procedure: D i s t e a r a t e ) 1 . o o
Add water t o shampoo base w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add G l y c e r - Ar lamol E w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . Heat (A) t o 80C and add s t e a r a t e w i t h f a s t s t i r r i ng . S t i r w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n
c o o l e d t o room tempera tu re . a CP 1059
Shampoo Concentrate
I n s r e d i e n t s : Ammoni um 1 a u r y l s u l f a t e (Stepano Water Cocamidopropyl b e t a i n e (Tegobeta NaCl C i t r i c a c i d Cocamide DEA (Monamid 15OADD) Procedure:
Heat i n g r e d i e n t s t o about 45C.
AM 1
ne L-7)
%w(W 75.59
0 . 3 0 17.78 0.47 0 .53 5 .33
S t i r each i n g r e d i e n t i n one a t a t i m e i n o r d e r u s i n g moderate a g i t a t i o n . Formula CP 1052
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
322 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Ethnic Hair Care Amphoteric Shampoo
(Cold Process) Clear
I n q r e d i e n t s : T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Water Sodi um L a u r y l Sul f a t e Cocamidopropyl Be ta ine (Tego Be ta ine F) D imeth icone Propy l PG Be ta ine ( A b i l B 9950) Quatern i um-80 (Ab i 1 Quat 3272) D imeth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l Lau ra te (Tagat L) C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l u t i o n ) Fragrance Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (and) G l y c e r y l Lau ra te
Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y )
Procedure: 1 . M ix i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . 2 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e .
( A n t i l HS 60)
w 0 . 1
48.1 20 .0 25 .0
0 . 5 0 . 3 0 . 5 0.5
Q . S .
5 . 0 Q . S .
t o pH 6
Ethnic Hair CareAmphoteric Shampoo
(Cold Process) Pearled
I n g r e d i e n t s : Te t rasod ium EDTA 0 . 1 Water 45 .1 Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e 20.0 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F) 25 .0 D imeth icone Propy l PG Be ta ine ( A b i l B 9950) 0 . 5 Quatern i urn-80 (Ab i 1 Quat 3272) 0 . 3 D imeth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l B 88183) 0 . 5 PEG-30 G l y c e r y l Lau ra te (Tagat L ) 0 . 5 C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l u t i o n ) t o pH 6 Fragrance Q . S . G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e (and) S tea re th -4 (Tego Pear l N 100) 3 . 0 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (and) G l y c e r y l Lau ra te
( A n t i l HS 60) 5 .0 Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y ) Q . S .
Procedure: 1 . M ix i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . 2 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e .
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Shampoos 323
Everyday Family Shampoo
Inexpens ive shampoo u t i l i z i n g P a t i o n i c ISL f o r mi ldness and c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo designed t o be used by a l l f a m i l y members w i t h a l l h a i r t y p e s .
I n q r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n 1 . Sodium C14-Cl6 O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e ( B i o t e r g e
AS-40) 37.50 C lean ing 2. P a t i o n i c ISL (Na I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3.00 M i l d n e s s 3 . R i tapeg 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 3 .50 V i scos i t y 4 . Kathon CG 0 .03 P r e s e r v a t i ve 5. Fragrance-Baby Powder #165-848 0 . 3 0 Odor 6. Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . ) q . s . V i s c o s i t y 7 . Sodium Hydrox ide (20% S o l n . ) q . s pH Adjustment 8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 55.67
Compounding Procedure:
R i t a p e g 150 OS i n a separa te vesse l t o 165F. Add t o t h e water w i t h good m i x i n g . Cool t o 120F and add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v - a t i v e . Add Sodium C h l o r i d e u n t i l s a l t c u r v e response. A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 .
Heat t h e water and i t e m 1 t o 165F. Heat t h e Pat o n i c ISL and
Ref . No. 178-37C
Everyday Family Shampoo
A m i l d everyday fo rmula f o r a l l f a m i l y members.
I n s r e d i e n t s : 1 . Sodium Laureth-2 S u l f a t e 2 . R i tamide C (Cocamide DEA 3. R i t o x 35 (Laure th-23) 4 . G r i l l o c a m E-20 (Methy l G 5 . R i t a c e t - 2 0 (Ceteareth-20 6. Promoi s W-32 (Hydro1 yzed 7. C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) 8 . P r e s e r v a t i v e - Kathon CG
%w/w F u n c t i o n (Standapol ES-2) 25.00 C lean ing
8 .00 3 .00
uceth-20) 3 .00 2.00
C o l l agen) 0.20
0 .03 9. Fragrance - Nature Harves t 0 .30 10. D i s t i 1 led /De ion i zed Water 58.47
q . s .
L a t h e r Combi ng Mi ldness Body Body pH adjustment P r e s e r v a t i v e Odor ___---_
Compounding Procedure: Heat water t o 165F. Combine i tems 3,4 and 5 and heat u n t i l
c l e a r . Add t o t h e water w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n . Add i t e m 1 and mix . Cool t o 120F. Add i t e m 6 . Pre-mix i t e m 2 and f r a g r a n c e . Add t o m i x t u r e . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 .
Ref . N o . 118-85
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp , : Suggested Formula t ions
324 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Gel Shampoo
Water Sodium C h l o r i d e Sodium Laure th ( 2 ) S u l f a t e (25%) Mona te r i c CAB Phosphol i p i d PTC Monamid 1089
% by Weight 55 .00
1 . o o 35 .00
5 . 0 0 2 - 0 0 2 . 0 0
pH a d j u s t e d t o 5 .0 -6 .0
Procedure:
comp le te l y d i s s o l v e d b e f o r e add ing t h e nex t one. Add f rag rance , c o l o r i ng, o r p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d .
Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o rde r l i s t e d making su re each one i s
Mild Conditioning Shampoo
Water Monater i c CLV Phosphol i p i d EFA Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) Sodium Laure th ( 2 ) S u l f a t e
% by Weight 34 .0
8 . 5 1 .5
27.0 29.0
Procedure:
c i t r i c a c i d .
T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :
B lend i n o rde r l i s t e d , a d j u s t pH down 5 . 5 t o 6 . 0 w i t h 50%
Appearance: C1 ear L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y 13 25C: Approx imate ly 17,000 cps .
Formula F-644
Conditioning Shampoo
Water Sodium Laure th ( 2 ) S u l f a t e (26%) Monater i c COAB Phosphol i p i d EFA Sodium C h l o r i d e
% bv Weinht 31 .O 57.7
9 . 4 1 . 4 0 .5
Procedure:
c i t r i c a c i d . Add f rag rances , c o l o r , and p r ? s e r v a t i v e s as r e q u i r e d and package.
B lend i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r . A d j u s t pH down t o 5 . 0 w i t h 50%
Formula F-621
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Shampoos 325
Hair ShampooDilutable Viscous Shampoo (For Customer Dilution 1:4)
Rhodaterge DCA Water Perfume, P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye
Viscous Consumer Shampoo
Rhodaterge DCA Water Perfume C o l o r , P r e s e r v a t i ve
Transparent Shampoo
Water M i r a c a r e ANK Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e
80 p a r t s 18 2
25 .0 p a r t s 74 .7
0 . 3 Q . S .
% by Weight 64 .5 3 3 . 0
Q . S . 2 . 5
B lend ing Procedure:
i e n t s i n o rde r l i s t e d . Charge water i n t o m i x i n g vesse l and b l e n d ba lance of i n g r e d -
Lotion Shampoo
Water M i raca re ANK M i rasheen 202 Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e
% by Weiaht 67.5 2 5 . 0
5 . 0 Q . S . 2 . 5
B lend ing Procedure:
i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d .
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Charge water i n t o m i x i n g vesse l and b l e n d ba lance of i n g r e d -
326 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Shampoo Clear
Ampholyt JB 130 Mar l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t SL 3/40 D i o n i l OC/K Lamepon S Panthenol V i tam in F Perfume Colour P r e s e r v a t i ve NaCl Water
Wt% 17.8 13.9 11.4 2 .0 2.0 0 . 2 0 . 1
qs qs qs qs
t o 100.0
P r e p a r a t i o n :
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 .5 -6 .5 . The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
Hair Shampoo
Mar l i n a t 242/28 Mar l i n a t CM 105 Ampholyt JB 130 D i o n i l OC/K Lamepon S Panthenol Hai r Complex Aquosom Camomi 1 e Speci a1 Co l lagen CLR Prese rva t i ve NaCl
W S 29.0 14.0 1 0 . 0
3 . 0 5 . 0 0 . 3 0 . 5 2 . 0 0 . 5
qs as
Water t o 1oo:o
P r e p a r a t i o n : The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
u n t i l homogeneous. The p H i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Formulas
Shampoos 327
Hair Shampoos, Clear
B 40/5: Ze teso l NL Pur ton SFD Perfume Water, sodium c h l o r i d e , p r e s e r v a t i v e
B 40/30: Ze teso l 2056 Pur ton SFD Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e ,
p r e s e r v a t i v e
B40/31 : S u l f e t a l KT 400 Amphotensid GB 2009 Pur ton CFD Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e
40.0% 1 . O % 0.5%
a . s . t o make 100.0%
30.0% 1.0%
q . s . t o make 100.0%
37.0% 10.0% 2.0%
q.s . t o make 100.0%
B40/50 : E x t r a k t 52 27.0% Amphotensid B 4 12.0% P u r t o n SFD 0.5% E x t r a c t s o f p l a n t s , aqueous (10%) 2.0% Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . t o make 100.0%
Hair Shampoos, Pearlescent
0 41/1; Ze teso l 856 T P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4175 Perfume Water, sodium c h l o r i d e , p r e s e r v a t i v e
B 41/3: S u l f e t a l KT 400 P e r l g l anzmi t t e l GM 41 75 Amphotensid B 4 Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e ,
p r e s e r v a t i v e
20.0% 4.0% 0.3%
q . s . t o make 100.0%
25.0% 8.0% 9 . 0 %
q.s . t o make 100.0%
B 41/25: Ze teso l 2056 28.0% Amphotensid 0 4 8.0% P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4175 4.0% Perfume 0.5% Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . t o make 100.0% SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co.: Suggested Formulas
328 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Shampoo with Conditioner
Mar l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 105 Ampholyt JB 130 Mar lamid DF 1218 Lamepon S M a r l a z i n KC 30/50 Pant henol V i t a m i n F Perfume Co lou r P r e s e r v a t NaCl Water
ve
35 .0 10 .0
5 . 0 2 . 0 2 . 0 1 . 6 0 . 2 0 . 1
qs CIS qs qs
t o 1 0 0 . 0
P r e p a r a t i - n :
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5.5-6.5. The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
Hair Shampoo with Conditioner for Everyday Use
Mar l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 105 M a r l i n a t S L 3/40 M a r l a z i n KC 30/50 Panthenol Perfume Co lou r P r e s e r v a t i ve NaC1 Water
wt% 46.0
7 . 0 3 . 8 1 . 6 0 . 2
qs q s qs CIS
t o 100.0
P repara t i on : The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5.5-6.5.
SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmet ics: Formulas
Shampoos 329
Herbal Shampoo Pearlescent
Mar l i n a t 242/28 Ampholyt JB 130 Marlamid PG 20 Hai r Complex Aquosum S t i n g i n g N e t t l e Spec ia l Rosemary Spec ia l V i tam in F Horse-chestnut Spec ia l Perfume Col our P r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl Water t o 1
wts/, 3 0 . 0
8 . 0 3 . 0 I . o 0 .5 0 . 3 0 . 2 I . 3
qs qs q s qs
100.0
P r e p a r a t i o n :
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
Highly Concentrated Hair Shampoo
A . M a r l i n a t 2 4 2 / 2 8 M a r l i n a t SL 3/40 Ampholyt J B 130 S o f t i g e n 767 Water
6 . Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e Co lour NaCl
P reDara t i on :
wts/, 54 .0 25 .0 1 6 . 0
3 . 0 t o 1 0 0 . 0
The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e added t o g e t h e r i n sequence, and s t i r r e d w h i l e warm u n t i l homogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s o f 8 . a r e added t o A . a t approx . 3 0 C . The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .
SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Formulas
330 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
High Foaming 2 in 1 Shampoo
Weiqht,% Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) 6 5 . 0 Mackalene 426 ( I sos tea ramidopropy l Morpho l i ne L a c t a t e ) 6 . 0 Mackanate DC-30 (Disodium Dimeth icone Copolyo l S u l f o -
succ i n a t e ) E t h y l e n e G1 y c o l D i s t e a r a t e Mackamide PKM (Palmkernalamide MEA) Mackernium 007 (Po lyqua te rn ium 7 ) Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in) Water, Dye, Fragrance q s t o
4 . 0 1 . o 2 . 0 0 . 4 Q . S .
1 0 0 . 0
Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e f i r s t f i v e components and hea t t o 70 degrees C .
2 . D i l u t e t h e Mackernium 007 i n t h e rema in ing water and s l o w l y
3 . B lend u n t i l p r o d u c t i s homogeneous and coo l t o 5 0 degrees C . 4 . Add Macks ta t DM, f r a g r a n c e and dye. 5 . A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d t o 5 .0 -6 .0 and c o o l .
w i t h c o n t i nuous m i x i ng . add t o t h e b l e n d I
Silicone Free 2:1 Shampoo
Weiaht ,% Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (30%) 4 0 . 0 Mackanate LA (Diammonium L a u r y l S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 20.0 Mackalene 426 ( I sos tea rami dop ropy l Morpho1 i ne L a c t a t e ) 6 . 0 Mackami de CMA (Cocami de MEA) 2 . 0 Mackernium 007 (Po lyqua te rn ium 7) 1 . 2 Mackester EGDS ( G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ) 1 . o
Paragon (DMDM Hydan to in (and) Methy l Paraben) q . s . Water, Fragrance, Dye q . s t o 1 0 0 . 0
Procedure: 1. Add t h e f i r s t seven components t o water and heat t o 70C. 2 . B1 end u n t i 1 compl e t e l y homogeneous. 3 . Cool t o 50C. and add Paragon, f r a g r a n c e and dye. 4 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 .0 -6 .0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 5 . Cool and f i l l .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary
Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8
Shampoos 331
Light Conditioning Shampoo
L i g h t condi t i o n i ng shampoo based on h a i r s u b s t a n t i v i t y o f P a t i o n i c SSL (Sodium S t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) . Promotes s t y l e r e t e n t i on.
I n s r e d i e n t s : w 1 . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (Standapol WAQ-LC) 21.43 2 . Sodium Laure th-2 S u l f a t e (Standapol ES-2) 21.43 3 . P a t i o n i c SSL (Na S t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3 .00
4. R i t a EGDS ( G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ) 5 . R i tamide C (Cocamide DEA)
6 . Fragrance - P e r t Type #189-724 7 . Kathon CG 8. C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) 9 . Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . )
3.50 4.50
0.30 0.03 q.s. q . s .
1 0 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 45.81
Funct i on C1 eani ng C lean ing S t y l e ,
V i s c o s i t y L a t h e r
D e n s i t y Odor P r e s e r v a t i v e pH Adjustment V i s c o s i t y
Adjustment
C o n d i t i o n i n g
------ ---- Compounding Procedure:
Heat i t e m s 3 and 4 u n t i l me l ted . Add t o 165F water i t e m s 1 and 2. B lend i n pre-mix w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 140F Heat i t e m 5 and mix w i t h perfume. Add t h e s e and p r e s e r v a t i v e a t 120F.
Ref . No. 118-98
Light Conditioning Shampoo
A l i g h t c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo w i t h reduced s k i n and eye i r r i t a t i o n due t o t h e e f f e c t s o f G r i l l o t e n (Sucrose Cocoate) .
I n a r e d i e n t s : 1 . Sodium Laureth-3 S u l f a t e (Standapol ES-3) 2 . Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Mackam 35HP) 3. G r i l l o t e n LSE-65K (Sucrose Cocoate) 4. R i t a s y n t I P ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e and o t h e r s ) 5 . Polyquta-400 (Polyquatern ium-10) 6. Kathon CG 7 . Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . ) 8 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) 9 . Fragrance l O . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water
F u n c t i o n
8.00 M i 1 dness 2.80 N o n - I r r i t a t i o n 3.00 Condi t i o n i ng 1.00 Combing, S t y l e 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e q. s . V i scos i t y q .s .pH Adjustment
44.87 -------------
40.00 L a t h e r
0 .30 Odor
Compounding Procedure: T o t h e water a t 165F s l o w l y add i t e m 5. When s o l u b i l i z e d add
i t e m 3, which has been mel ted . Then add 1, 2 and 4 w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n a t 165F. Cool t o 120F and add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 and v i s c o s i t y t o d e s i r e d l e v e l .
SOURCE: R.1,T.A. C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Ref . No. 118-2
332 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Light Conditioning Shampoo
L i g h t c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo des igned t o l eave t h e h a i r w i t h a s o f t , c o n d i t i o n e d f e e l f rom e t h o x y l a t e d 1 ano l i n ( Laneto 5 0 ) . I n q r e d i e n t s : ?&’& F u n c t i o n 1 . Sodium Laure th-2 S u l f a t e (Standapol ES-2) 50.00 C lean ing 2 . R i t a s y n t I P ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e and Othe rs ) 4.50 C o n d i t i o n i n g ,
3 . P a t i o n i c ISL (Na I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3 .00 M i ldness ,
4 . Laneto 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 1 I 50 S o f t F e e l ,
5 . R i tapeg 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 0.50 Opac i t y 6 . R i tapan DL (d l -Pan theno l ) 0 .50 C o n d i t i o n e r ,
7 . F ragrance - Squeeky Clean 165-047 0 .30 Odor 8 . Kathon CG 0 . 0 3 P rese rva t i ve 9 . Sodium Hydrox ide (20% So ln . ) q.s.pH ad jus tment 10.Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . ) q . s . V i scos i t y
Compounding Procedure: To t h e water add 1-6, hear t o 165F. M i x and coo l t o 120F.
Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and f rag rance . Note pH shou ld be near 6 .0 . A d j u s t w i t h sodium hyd rox ide t o 7 .2 -7 .6 t o maximize d e p o s i t i o n o f t h e Laneto 50 i f d e s i r e d .
S o f t Feel
Combing
Shine
Body
Con t ro l 11 . D i s t i l l e d Water 39.67 ---------
Ref . No. 118-46
Light Conditioning Shampoo
A l i g h t c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo o p t i m i z e d f o r permed h a i r . Con ta ins m o i s t u r i z e r s and r e p a i r agents t o g i v e h a i r new l i f e . I n q r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n 1 . Sodium Laure th-2 S u l f a t e (Standapol
ES-2) 53.60 C lean ing 2 . P a t i o n i c ISL (Na I s o s t e a r o y l
L a c t y l a t e ) 2.25 Moi s t u r i z a t i o n 3 . R i tapeg 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 0 .75 V i s c o s i t y 4. R i t a EGMS ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e ) 2.00 O p a c i t y 5 . R i t a l a n DL (d l -Pan theno l ) 0 .25 Body, Fee l 6 . Laneto 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 0.75 Feel 7 . Propy lene G l y c o l 2 .50 Moi s t u r i z a t i o n 8 . F ragrance - Na tu re Harves t 165-050 0 .30 Odor 9 . Kathon CG 0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e 10. D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 37.57 ------- Compounding Procedure:
Heat i t ems 2,3 and 4 u n t i l u n i f o r m . Separa te l y hea t water u n t i l 165F d i s p e r s e i t e m 5 and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add i t e m 1 f o l l o w e d by pre-mix . Add i t e m 7 t o ba tch . Pre-mix i t e m 6 and perfume and add t o b a t c h which has been c o o l e d t o 125F. Mix t h o r o u g h l y . Add o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s . pH shou ld be near 5 .5 .
SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Ref . No. 118-94
Shampoos 333
Low pH, Protein Gel Shampoo
Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (30%) Wei g h t ,%
35 .0 Mackam 35HP (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) 12.0
( N a t u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 2.0 Mackamide LLM (Lauramide DEA) 2.0 Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) q s L a c t i c A c i d q s Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0 Procedure: 1 . Add f i r s t f o u r components t o water and heat t o 60 degrees C . 2 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 w i t h l a c t i c a c i d . 3 . Cool and add remain ing components a t 40 degrees C .
Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n )
Mild Conditioning Shampoo
Weiqht,% Mackanate EL (Disodium L a u r e t h Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) 10.0 Mackam 35 (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ( V i a G l y c e r i d e ) 2 5 . 0 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (60%) 10.0 Mackanate DC-30 (D i sodi um D i meth i cone Copolyo l
Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) 1 . o Mackamide C (Cocamide DEA (1:l) 2 . 0 P o l y s o r b a t e 20 1 . o Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in) q s Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0
Procedure: 1 . Add s u r f a c t a n t s t o w a t e r . 2 . S t a r t m i x i n g a t room tempera ture u n t i l a l l components a r e
3 . B lend f r a g r a n c e w i t h P o l y s o r b a t e and add t o b a t c h . 4 . A d j u s t pH i f necessary w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 5. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e .
pH: 5 .5-6.7 V i s c o s i t y (cps 25 degrees C . ) : 600-1200
c l e a r l y d i s s o l v e d .
Economy Shampoo
Mackadet SBC-8 (Mi I d Blend) Sodium C h l o r i d e
Wei q h t . % 10.0
qs Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in) qs Water, Dye, Fragrance q s t o 100.0 Procedure: 1 . Add Mackadet SBC-8 t o water and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 2 . Add Macks ta t DM and a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y t o 3000-4000 cps w i t h
3 . Add dye and f r a g r a n c e and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary
sodium c h l o r i d e .
334 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Mild Shampoo
U l t r a m i l d shampoo f o r g e n t l e c l e a n i n easy t o r i n s e o u t and leaves min imal r e s
I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (Standapol ES- 2 . Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Mackam 35 HP) 3 . R i t a b a t e 20 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 20) 4. R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e )
5 . P r e s e r v a t i v e 6 . Fragrance-Baby Powder #165-848 7 . Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n ) 8. D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water
ComDoundina Procedure:
o f h a i r . E x c e p t i o n a l l y due.
m ) 30 .00
20.00 5.00 2.00
q . s .
q . s . 0.30
42.70
F u n c t i o n C1 eani ng M i ldness M i 1 dness L i g h t C o n d i t i o n i n g P r e s e r v a t i ve Odor V i s c o s i t y
To water add i tems 1 and 4. Heat t o 60C and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add i t e m s 2 and 3 and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g . Cool t o 30C. Add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e s o l u t i o n .
R e f . No . 118-71
Mild Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s : %Jqjy 1 . Sodium Laureth-2 S u l f a t e (Standapol ES-2) 46.50 2. P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e 1 2 . 2 5 3 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 0.75
4. C o n d i t i o n i n g Agent* 5 . Fragrance-Nature Harves t 165-050 6 . Kathon CG 7 . Sodium Hydrox ide (20% S o l n . ) 8 . Sodium Chor ide (25% S o l n . )
q . s . 0.30 0 .03
q . s . q . s .
9 , D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 50.17
Funct i on C lean ing Damage Repai r V i s c o s i t y , M a n a g e a b i l i t y C o n d i t i o n i n g Odor P r e s e r v a t i v e pH Adjustment V i s c o s i t y
C o n t r o l _---- * O p t i o n a l c o n d i t i o n i n g agent , such as j o j o b a o i l , pan theno l ,
p r o t e i n , e t c . c o u l d be added.
Compounding Procedure:
add a t 165F. Cool t o 120F and add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 .0 -6 .5 and v i s c o s i t y as d e s i r e d .
SOURCE: I 3 , I . T . A . Corp . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
To t h e water add i t e m 1 a t 165F. Pre-mix i tems 2 and 3 and
Ref . No. 118-102
Shampoos 335
Moisture Balance Shampoo with Cropeptide WT h i s fo rmu la g i v e s h a i r more body c o n t r o l i n a l l h u m i d i t i e s ,
an e f f e c t c r e a t e d by Cropep t ide W . E s p e c i a l l y recommended f o r d r y , damaged h a i r , Cropept ide W can reduce i t s b r i t t l e n e s s a t low RH and i t s l impness a t h i g h RH. The shampoo i s an easy- to - make and economical c o l d mix fo rmu la w i t h v e r y good c l e a n s i n g p r o p e r t i e s . I n g r e d i e n t s : % P a r t A : I nc romide LR (Lauramide DEA) 5 .00 Incronam 30 (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) 5 .00 Sodi um Pareth-25 S u l f a t e 15.00 Cropep t ide W (Hydro lyzed Wheat P r o t e i n (and) Wheat
1 .oo Dei on i zed Water 73.70 P a r t B: Methyl paraben 0.20 P ropy l paraben 0.10 Procedure:
i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h good m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH w i t h a 10% c i t r i c s o l u t i o n .
01 i gosacchar i des)
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add t h e
pH: 5.0+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y : 7,500+-10% (RVT S p i n d l e #4, 20 rpm, 25C) N . A . T . C . Approved
Formula SH-82
Shampoo with TritisolA r i c h foaming shampoo w i t h wheat d e r i v e d T r i t i s o l added f o r
condi t i on i ns. Excel 1 en t wet combi ng c h a r a c t e r i s t i cs a r e produced by t h i s p e a r l e s c e n t p r o d u c t . I n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t A:
- %
SLES ( 3 mole) 16 .50 C r o s u l t a i n e C-50 (Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e ) 7.00 Dei o n i zed Water 61.50 Incromectan t AMEA-100 (Acetamide MEA) 3.75 P a r t 8 : I nc romide CAC (Cocamide DEA Cocoyl Sa rcos ine ) 3 .00 Inc romide ALD (Almondamide DEA) 1 .oo Incromate OLL (O l i vamidopropy l Dimethylamine L a c t a t e ) 1 .oo P a r t C : T r i t i s o l ( S o l u b l e Wheat P r o t e i n ) 2 .25 Crodapear l L i q u i d (Sodim Laure th S u l f a t e (and)
Hydroxye thy l Stearamide M I P A ) 3.00 Germaben I 1 1 .oo Procedure:
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 80-856. S low ly add B t o A w i t h m i x i n g and coo l t o 40C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH t o 6 .0 w i t h a 10% c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n . Cool t o d e s i r e d f i l l tempera ture .
pH: 6 O O + - 0 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 2,500+-10% (@25C) N . A . T . C . Approved Formula SH-83-1
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and hea t t o 60-65C.
336 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Protein Shampoos
0 40/65: S u l f e t a l KT 400 Amphotensid 0 4 Pur ton SFD H y d r o l a s t a n Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e ,
p r e s e r v a t i v e
B 40/148: P a r t A : S u l f e t a l CJOT 60 P u r t o n SFD Perfume Croquat L P a r t B: Polymer JR 400 Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e
Vitamin Shampoos
B 40/29: Ze teso l 856 T Pur ton SFD S o l u v i t CLR Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e
0 40/30: S u l f e t a l KT 400 Amphotensid B 4 Pur ton CFD V i tami n F, water -so l u b l e Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e ,
p r e s e r v a t i v e
30.0% 10.0%
1.5% 1 .O%
9 . s . t o make 100.0%
25.0% 1 .0% 0.5% 1 .O%
0.3% 9 , s . t o make 100.0%
Shampoo for Dry Hair
B 40 /131: Zeteso l 856 T Amphotensid B 4 Oxypon 288 Avocado o i l Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e
30.0% 1.5% 3.0%
a . s . t o make 100.0%
40.0% 5.0% 1.5% 1.0%
q.s . t o make 100.0%
q . s .
22.0% 8.0% 4 . 0 % 0.5% 1 .O%
approx. 2 .0% t o make 100.0%
SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co.: Sugeested Formula t ions
Shampoos 337
Salon Conditioning Shampoo
Opt imal c o n d i t i o n i n g l e v e l i s achieved.
I n q r e d i e n t s : 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (Standapol
ES-2) 2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l
3 . R i tapeg 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 4. R i tapan DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 5 . Laneto 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 6 . Po lyquta 400 (Polyquatern ium-10) 7 . Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . ) 8 . Kathon CG 9 . Fragrance - N a t u r e Harves t 165-050 10. D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water
L a c t y l a t e )
F u n c t i o n
54.35 C1 eani ng
3 . 0 0 M i l d , Combing 1 .OO S t y l e , V i s c o s i t y 0 .25 Body 0.75 Combing 0 .50 Combing, S ty1 e 0.25 V i s c o s i t y 0 .03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 0.30 Odor
39.57 ------ Compounding Procedure:
i t e m 3 i n i t e m 2. Add t o 165F main b a t c h and mix u n t i l un i fo rm. Add i t e m s 5 and 1 i n o r d e r and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 120F. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and perfume. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h NaC1.
D isperse i t e m s 6 and 4 i n o r d e r i n water a t 165F. P r e - d i s s o l v e
Ref . No. 118-28
Salon Conditioning Shampoo
A m i l d s a l o n c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo w i t h ex t remely r i c h l a t h e r and a l o e and panthenol t o p e n e t r a t e t h e h a i r s h a f t t o produce hea l t h y h a i r .
I n s r e d i e n t s : 1 . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (Standapol
2 . Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Mackam
3. R i tamide C (Cocamide DEA) 4. P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l
5 . R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e Vera G e l ) 6. R i t a p a n DL (d l -Pantheno l ) 7. Kathon CG 8 . Fragrance - Nature Harves t 9. Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . ) 1 0 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% So ln . ) 11 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water
WAQ LC)
35 HP)
L a c t y l a t e )
F u n c t i o n
25.00 C1 eani ng
10.00 L a t h e r , M i l d 5.00 L a t h e r , Oensi t y
1 - 7 5 M i l d n e s s 0.15 Condi t i o n i ng 0.50 H e a l t h 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 0 .30 Odor
q . s . V i s c o s i t y C o n t r o l q .s .pH Adjustment
57.27 ----- Compounding Procedure:
1 , 2 and 4, add h e a t t o 120F. Add t o water m i x t u r e w i t h u n i f o r m m i x i n g . Pre-mix R i tamide C and perfume and add t o b a t c h . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH and v i s c o s i t y as needed.
SOURCE: R . I .T .A . Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
To t h e water add i t e m s 5 and 6, h e a t t o 120F. Combine i t e m s
Ref . No. 118-63
338 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Salon Style Shampoo
Salon c o n d i t i o n i n g i s achieved t h r o u g h balanced b l e n d o f s u r f a c t a n t s , po lymers and p r o t e i n s which g i v e h a i r g r e a t combing and s h i n e .
I n q r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n 1. Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (Stepanol
AM 1 45.00 C1 eani ng 2 . Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Mackam 35HP) 5.50 Mi ldness 3. Cocami dopropyl Ami ne Oxide (Mazox
CAPA) 4 . R i tamide C (Cocamide DEA) 5. Po lyquta 400 (Polyquatern ium-10) 6 . Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e
(Methocel 40-100) 7 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e @ 99% 8 . Tet rasodium EDTA 9 . Methy lparaben 10.Germal l 115 11 .Promois WK (Hydro lyzed K e r a t i n ) 12.Fragrance-Nature Harves t #165-050 1 3 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) 1 4 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water
Cornpounding Procedure:
5.50 La ther 1.00 La ther Densi 0.10 C o n d i t i o n i n g
0.20 Body, V iscos 0.10 pH 0 .20 C l a r i t y 0.20 P r e s e r v a t i v e 0 .20 P r e s e r v a t i v e 0.40 Shine, Body 0.30 Odor 4 , s . pH C o n t r o l
41.30 -----
Y
To t h e water add i t e m s 5 and 6 and n e u t r a l i z e w i t h TEA. Add i tems 1,2,8,9,10 and 11 i n o r d e r . Pre-mix i t e m s 3,4 and f r a g r a n c e and add t o mix . M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 and v i s c o s i t y .
Ref . No. 118-111
2 in 1 High Conditioning Shampoo
High c o n d i t i o n i n g 2 i n 1 t y p e shampoo w i t h e x c e l l e n t wet combi ng /dry combing.
I n q r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h - 3 - S u l f a t e
(Standapol ES-3) 30.00 C1 eani ng 2. R i tamide C (Cocamide DEA) 3 .75 L a t h e r 3. Po lyquta 400 (Polyquatern ium-10) 1.00 C o n d i t i o n i n g 4. Fragrance 0.30 Odor 5 . Kathon CG 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e
Compounding Procedure:
i t e m s 1 and 2 i n o r d e r and mix u n t i l c l e a r . Cool t o 120F and add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH w i t h C i t r i c A c i d and v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e t o d e s i r e d ranges.
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
6. D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 64.92 ----
TO t h e water a t 165F add i t e m s 3 and mix u n t i l c l e a r . Add
R e f . No. 115-2058
Shampoos 339
Shampoo for Permed Hair
Wei g h t .% Mackanate OP (Disodium Oleamido M I P A S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 20 .0 Mackanate CP (Di sodi um Cocami do M I P A S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 12 .0 Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e (30%) 15.0 Mackamine WGO (Wheat Germamidopropylamine Oxide) 4 .0 Mackalene 716 (Wheat Germamidopropyl Dimethylami ne
L a c t a t e ) 1 . o Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs C i t r i c A c i d t o pH=6.0 Sodium C h l o r i d e qs t o 2000 cps Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0 Procedure: 1. Add s u r f a c t a n t s t o water and heat t o 40 degrees C . 2 . B lend u n t i l c l e a r and a d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 3 . Add remain ing components and a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium
c h l o r i d e .
Pearlescent Shampoo Concentrate
TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e Weight ,%
50.0 Mackami de LLM (Laurami de DEA) 30 .0 Mackester SP ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e M o d i f i e d ) 5 . 0 Propy l ene G1 y c o l 5 .0 Sodium C h l o r i d e 1 . 0 Phosphor ic A c i d t o pH = 7 . 5 Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, Fragrance, Dye qs t o 100.0 Procedure: 1 . Add f i r s t f i v e components t o water and heat t o 70 degrees C. 2 . B1 end u n t i 1 homogeneous. 3 . Cool t o 40 degrees C . and add Macks ta t DM, dye and f r a g r a n c e . Remarks: T h i s p r o d u c t can be d i l u t e d one p i n t t o a g a l l o n
w i t h w a t e r . The v i s c o s i t y can be c o n t r o l l e d by r e g u l a t - i n g t h e propy lene g l y c o l .
Neutralizer Shampoo
Weipht,% Mackanate OM (Disodium Oleamido MEA S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 30.0 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (30%) 2 0 . 0 Mackami ne CAO (Cocami dopropyl ami ne Ox ide) 6 . 0 Mackamine WGO (Wheat Germamidopropylamine Oxide) 2 . 0 Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0
S o l i d s , %: 19.5 pH: 5 . 3 V i s c o s i t y (cps, 25 deg C . ) : 1500
Procedure: Add s u r f a c t a n t s t o water and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . A d j u s t pH
t o 5 .0 -5 .5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Add dye and f r a g r a n c e .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary
340 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sport Shampoo
A . M a r l i n a t OFN 30 M a r l i n a t CM 105 Amphol y t J B 130 O i o n i l OC/K A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d Water
B . Avocado Spec ia l Perfume Co lour P rese rva t i ve
w e i 35 .0 11 . o 10.0
2 . 5 q s
t o 1 0 0 . 0
1 . 5 qs q s qs
P r e p a r a t i o n :
and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s o f 9. a r e added t o A . a t approx. 30C. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .
The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e added t o g e t h e r i n sequence, warmed
Herbal Shampoo Against Greasy Hair
A . M a r l i n a t 242128 M a r l i n a t CM 105 Amphol y t JB 130 Mar lamid M 1218 Water
B . Avocado Spec ia l Camomi 1 e Speci a1 Perfume Co lour P r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl
wt% 2 8 . 0 1 8 . 0 13 .0
3 . 0 t o 100.0
1 . o 0 . 5
qs qs qs qs
P r e p a r a t i o n : The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e added t o g e t h e r i n sequence and
s t i r r e d w h i l e warm u n t i l homogeneous. The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f B . a r e added t o A, a t approx . 30C. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .
SOURCE: Huls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Formulas
Shampoos 341
Two in One Shampoo I n g r e d i e n t s : PC 9043, S i l i c o n e emuls ion
w 1 0 . 0 0
Shampoo concen t ra te 90.00 Procedure:
Heat ( A ) t o approx . 65C. Mix w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h anchor t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Formula PC 9049
Two in One Shampoo I n g r e d i e n t s : PC 9044, S i l i c o n e emuls ion 1 0 . 0 0 Shampoo c o n c e n t r a t e 90.00 Procedure:
t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Formula PC 9050
Heat ( A ) t o approx . 65C. Mix w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h anchor
Two in One Shampoo I n g r e d i e n t s : o/ow/w PC 9045, s i l i c o n e emuls ion 1 0 . 0 0 Shampoo concen t ra te 90.00 Procedure:
t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Formula PC 9051
Heat ( A ) t o approx . 65C. Mix w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h anchor
Two in One Shampoo I nared i en t s : PC 9046, s i l i c o n e emuls ion Shampoo c o n c e n t r a t e
o m 1 0 . 0 0 90.00
Procedure:
t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Formula PC 9052
Heat ( A ) t o approx . 65C. Mix w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h anchor
Two in One Shampoo I n a r e d i e n t s : PC 9047, s i l i c o n e emuls ion
%w/w 1 0 . 0 0
Shampoo c o n c e n t r a t e 90 .00 Procedure:
t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Formula PC 9053
Heat ( A ) t o approx . 65C. Mix w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h anchor
Two in One Shampoo I n a r e d i e n t s : PC 9048, s i l i c o n e emuls ion
w 1 0 . 0 0
Shampoo c o n c e n t r a t e 90 .00 Procedure:
t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Formula PC 9054
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat ( A ) t o approx . 65C. Mix w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h anchor
342 Cosmetic and Toiletiy Formulations
Two in One Shampoo
True 2 i n 1 fo rmula w i t h e x c e p t i o n a l wet and d r y combing.
I n q r e d i e n t s : &V&/ F u n c t i o n 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h - 2 - S u l f a t e (Standapol
ES-2 30.00 C lean ing 2 . Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Mi r a t a i n e
BET C-30) 3 .00 La ther 3 . PEG-120 Methy l Glucose D i o l e a t e 3.00 Mi ldness , V i s c o s i t y 4 . Dow Corn ing 1401 F l u i d 2.60 Combing 5. R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 4 .00 La ther D e n s i t y 6 . Fragrance 0.20 Odor 7 . P r e s e r v a t i v e - Kathon CG 0 I 03 P r e s e r v a t i o n 8 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) q . s . pH Adjustment 9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 57-17 ---- --- Compounding Procedure:
5 and add t o mix a t 60C. S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add f r a g r a n c e , p r e s e r v a t i v e and a d j u s t pH t o 6.0-6.5.
To t h e water a t 60C add i tems 1,2 and 3. Premix i tems 4 and
Ref . No. 116-153
Two in One Shampoo
Unique combina t ion o f e x c e l l e n t c o m b a b i l i t y , o v e r a l l cond- i t i o n i n g and mi ldness .
I n a r e d i e n t s : 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h - 2 - S u l f a t e (Standapol
2 . G r i l l o t e n LSE-65K (Sucrose Cocoate) ES-2)
3.
4. 5 . 6. 7 . 8. 9. 10.
Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Mi r a t a i ne BET C-30)
Dimeth icone Copo lyo l (Abi 1 888183) Quaternium 80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) Fragrance - Squeeky Clean Kathon CG C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . ) D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water
F u n c t i o n
1.50 Mi ldness 45.00 C lean ing , La ther
10.00 L a t h e r , M i ldness 1.95 Combing 0.65 C o n d i t i o n i n g 0 .30 Odor 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 0.05 pH Adjustment q . s . V i s c o s i t y C o n t r o l
40.52 ---- Compounding Procedure:
t h e i tems 1 and 2 w h i l e h e a t i n g g e n t l y and add perfume and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Now mix b o t h phases t o g e t h e r . A d j u s t pH and v i scos i t y .
SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp.: Suggested Formula t ions
To t h e water a t 120F add i t e m s 4,5 and 3 i n o r d e r . Pre-mix
Ref . No. 119-4
Shampoos 343
2-In-1 Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s : A Dimeth icone Copo lyo l Dow Corn ing 92-5000
Dow Corn ing 345 f l u i d Carbopol 1382 Water
%w/w 0 .25 0 . 2 5 0.10
66.13
B CP 1052 (shampoo base) 31 . 5 0
C Stepan-Kessco E t h y l e n e g l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e 1 . o o
D NaCl 0.77
Procedure: B lend i n g r e d i e n t s i n (A) t o g e t h e r w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n
a t 35C. Add shampoo base t o (A) w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Heat m i x t u r e t o 80C and add g l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e w i t h f a s t s t i r r i n g . A l l o w t o c o o l w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n , s t i r r i n g i n s a l t a t 50C o r be low. Formula CP 1061
Two-in-One Shampoo
I n g r e d i e n t s : A Water
Dow Corn ing (12-5200 Dow Corn ing 345 f l u i d BF Goodr ich Carbopol 1382
B Stepan-Kessco E thy lene g l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e
C G-9600 1053 (Shampoo base)
D NaCl * P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q . s t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
%w/w 67.36
0 . 1 0 0 .20 0 . 0 8
0.50
31 .50
0.26
Procedure:
35C. Add shampoo base t o (A) w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Heat m i x t u r e t o 80C and add g l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e w i t h f a s t s t i r r i n g . A l l o w t o c o o l w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n , s t i r r i n g i n s a l t a t 50C or b e l ow. Formula CP 1063
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
B lend i n g r e d i e n t s i n (A) t o g e t h e r w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n a t
344 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Three in One Shampoo
R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a c l e a r r i c h shampoo which c leans ; c o n d i t i o n s and improves c o m b a b i l i t y w i t h Lexquat AMG-BEO; and s t y 1 es w i t h PVP/VA copolymer .
A . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (Standapol WAQ) 15.00 TEA-Lauryl S u l f a t e (Standapol T ) 10.00 Cocami dopropy l B e t a i ne (Lexa i ne C) 10.00 Cocami de DEA (Standami d KD) 3 .00 Potassium Cocoyl -Hydro lyzed Co l lagen (Maypon 4C) 3.00
B. De ion ized Water Propy lene G l y c o l USP Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) Propy lparaben (Lexgard P) Benzophenone-4 ( U v i n u l MS-40) Tet rasodium EDTA (Hamp-ene Na4)
42.10 3 .00 0 . 2 0 0.10 0 . 1 0 0 .10
C . Behenami dopropy l PG D i moni um Chl o r i de (Lexquat AMG-BEO) 7 .00
D. PVP/VA copolymer ( L u v i s k o l VA 73-W) 6 .00
E . Fragrance Co lor
0 . 2 0 QS
F. C i t r i c A c i d NF QS
Procedure: 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n phase " A " . Heat t o 75C w i t h c o n t i n -
uous s low o s c i l l a t i o n . Do n o t e n t r a p a i r . 2 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n phase "B'l. Heat t o 75-8OC. Mix r a p i d l y
t o d i s s o l v e parabens. 3 . When phases "A&B1' a r e b o t h homogenoeus and a r e 75C, add
Phase "A" t o "B". A d j u s t m i x i n g speed t o a v o i d foaming and a i r ent rapment .
4 . Combine phase "C" and mix u n t i l homogeneous. 5 . Add phase "C" t o 'IAB". M a i n t a i n 75C. 6 . When phase "ABC" i s homogenoeus add 'ID1' t o "ABC". M i x u n t i l
7 . When phase "ABCD" i s homogeneous b e g i n c o o l i n g t o ambient
8 . A t 30C add phase '@E1' t o "ABCDI'. Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g . 9 . When b a t c h reaches ambient tempera ture , a d j u s t pH t o 7 w i t h
1 0 . A d j u s t f o r water l o s s .
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n SP-116
homogeneous.
tempera ture .
phase "F" I
Shampoos 345
Three in One Shampoo
R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a r i c h c l e a r shampoo which c l e a n s ; p r o v i d e s c o n d i t i o n i n g and improved c o m b a b i l i t y w i t h Lexquat AMG-BE0 and q u a t e r n i z e d c h i t o s a n ; and s t y l e s w i t h PVP/VA copolymer.
A .
B .
C .
D .
E .
F.
Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (Standapol WAQ) TEA-Lauryl S u l f a t e (Standapol T) Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Lexa i ne C) Cocami de DEA (Standami d KD) Potassium Cocoyl -Hydro lyzed Co l lagen (Maypon 4C)
Dei on i zed Water Propy lene G l y c o l USP Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) Propylparaben (Lexgard P) Benzophenone-4 ( U v i n u l MS-40) Tet rasodium EDTA (Hamp-ene Na4)
Behenamidopropyl PG Dimonium C h l o r i d e (Lexquat
Polyquaternium-29 (Kytamer KC)
PVP/VA co-polymer ( L u v i s k o l VA 73-W)
Fragrance C o l o r
C i t r i c A c i d NF
AMG-BEO)
w 15.00 10.00 10.00
3 . 0 0 3.00
42.10 3 .00 0.20 0 . 1 0 0 .10 0.10
7 .00 0.20
6.00
0 . 2 0 QS
QS
Procedure: 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n phase " A " . Heat t o 75C w i t h cont inuous
2. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n phase "B" . Heat t o 75-8OC. Mix r a p i d l y
3 . When phases "A&B" a r e b o t h homogeneous and a r e 75C, add Phase
s low o s c i l l a t i o n . Do n o t e n t r a p a i r .
t o d i s s o l v e parabens.
"At1 t o 'lB". A d j u s t m i x i n g speed t o a v o i d foaming and a i r ent rapment .
4. Combine phase "C" and mix u n t i l homogeneous. 5 . Add phase "C" t o "AB". M a i n t a i n 75C. 6. When phase tlABC" i s homogeneous add phase "D" t o "ABC". M ix
7. When phase "ABCDtf i s homogeneous b e g i n c o o l i n g t o ambient
8 . A t 30C add phase "El1 t o l'ABCD". Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g . 9 . When b a t c h reaches ambient tempera ture , a d j u s t pH t o 7 w i t h
1 0 . A d j u s t f o r water loss.
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co.: F o r m u l a t i o n SP-115
u n t i l homogeneous.
tempera ture .
phase "F" .
346 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Wheat & Sesame ShampooL? H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA i s t h e key i n g r e d i e n t i n t h i s shampoo,
which a c q u i r e s i t s un ique q u a l i t y f rom a b l e n d o f wheat d e r i v e d m a t e r i a l s . T h i s shampoo has e x c e l l e n t foam w i t h a r i c h , creamy l a t h e r and leaves t h e h a i r f e e l i n g r e f r e s h i n g l y c l e a n . Hydro- t r i t i c u m WAA, a power fu l humectant, h e l p s t o r e t a i n m o i s t u r e t h a t i s v i t a l t o mai n t a i n i ng hea l t h y h a i r . Inc romec tan t AMEA-100 and Incromate S E L improve wet combing and d e t a n g l i n g .
P a r t A : I nc romi ne Oxide WG (Wheat Germarni dopropy l ami ne Ox ide) 3 .00 Incronam WG-30 (Wheat Germamidopropyl Be ta ine ) 3 . 0 0 Inc romec tan t AMEA-100 (Acetamide MEA) 5 . 0 0 S L E S ( 3 mol EO) 40.00 D i sod i um EDTA 0 .10 Dei o n i zed Water 41 -4.5 P a r t B: Inc romi de WGD (Wheat Germami de DEA) 2 . 0 0 Incromate SEL (Sesami dopropy l D imethy l ami ne L a c t a t e ) 1 . o o BHT 0 .10 P a r t C : H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA (Wheat Amino Ac ids ) 3 .00 P a r t D : Methylparaben 0 .25 Propy lparaben 0 . 1 0 Propylene G l y c o l 1 - 0 0 C i t r i c A c i d (10% s o l n ) t o pH 5 . 4
Combine P a r t A and hea t t o 60C. Combine P a r t B and heat t o 60C, m i x i n g u n t i l homogeneous. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Cont inue m i x i n g and coo l t o 45C. Add P a r t C , f o l l o w e d by P a r t D , m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . A d j u s t p H w i t h c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n .
I n a r e d i e n t s : - %
N . A . T . C . Approved Formula SH-84 Detangling Shampoo
I n a r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : SLES ( 3 m o l . ) C r o s u l t a i n e C-50 (Cocamidopropyl Dei o n i zed Water Inc romec tan t AMEA-100 (Acetamide P a r t B:
Hydroxysul t a i ne)
MEA)
Inc romide CAC (Cocamide DEA Cocoyl Sarcos ine) Incromate ISML ( I sos tea ramidopropy l Morpho l i ne L a c t a t e ) P a r t C : Crodacel QM (Cocodimonium Hydroxypropy C e l l u l o s e ) Crodapear l L i q u i d (Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e (and)
Propy lene G1 y c o l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and) Me thy l Hydroxyethy l Stearamide-MIPA)
Paraben (and) P ropy l Paraben*
- %
20 .0 7 . 0
58 .0 2 . 0
3 . 0 4 . 0
2 . 0
3 . 0
1 . o Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and hea t t o 60-65C.
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 60-65C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and coo l t o 40C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and coo l t o d e s i r e d f i l l tempera ture . A d j u s t pH w i t h 10% c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n .
SOURCE: C r o d a I n c . : S u g g e s t e d Formulas Formula SH-92 *Germaben I 1
Shampoos 347
Wheat Germ Conditioning ShampooWei u h t , %
Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (30%) 24 .0 Mackanate OP (Disodium Oleamido M I P A S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 2 0 . 0
Mackanate WGD (Disodium Wheatgermamido PEG-2 8 .0 Sul f o s u c c i n a t e )
Mackam WGB (Wheat Germamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) 5 . 0 C i t r i c A c i d t o pH 5 .5 Sodium C h l o r i d e qs t o v i s c o s i t y = 20000 cps Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0 Procedure: 1 . Add s u r f a c t a n t s t o water and heat t o 40 degrees C . 2 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 . 3 . Add remain ing components and a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium
c h l o r i d e .
No-Sting 2:l Shampoo
Mackam 2C Weisht,%
3 5 . 0 Sodium Laure th-1 S u l f a t e 20 .0 Mackanate DC-30 4.0 Mackernium 007 3 . 0 Mackester SP 2.0 Mackstat DM q . s . C i t r i c A c i d q . s . t o pH 7 . 0 - 7 . 5 Water, Dye, Fragrance q . s . t o 100.0 Procedure: 1 . Add Mackam 2C, Sodium Laureth-1 S u l f a t e , Mackanate DC-30 and
Mackester SP t o water . 2 . Heat t o 70C t o b l e n d u n t i l homogenous. 3 . S l o w l y add Mackernium 007. 4. Cool t o 50C and add Mackstat DM. 5 . Add f r a g r a n c e , dye and a d j u s t pH t o 7 . 0 - 7 . 5 .
Stripper Shampoo Weight,%
21.5 5 . 4 4 .0 5 . 5 8 .0
100.0
Dodecylbenzene S u l f o n i c A c i d C a u s t i c Soda (50%) Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (60%) Mackam 35 (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) Sodium Xylene S u l f o n a t e (40%) Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o
S o l i d s , %: 30+-1.0
V i s c o s i t y (cps, 25C): 250-350 Cloud P o i n t : 5C
pH: 6.5-7.0
Procedure: 1 . Add c a u s t i c soda t o water and a d j u s t pH t o 7.0-8.0 w i t h DDBSA. 2 . Add remain ing components and a d j u s t pH t o 6 .5 -7 .0 w i t h
3 . If necessary, lower v i s c o s i t y w i t h SXS, o r r a i s e v i s c o s i t y
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested Formula t ions
c i t r i c a c i d .
w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .
Shaving Products 349
Aerosol Shaving Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed
S t r i p p e d coconut f a t t y a c i d Sorbo
B Water, d e i o n i z e d A1 l a n t o i n
C Potassium hyd rox ide Water
D *Perfume
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
6 .30 2 . 7 0
10.00
50.00 0 .20
1 .70 29.10
Procedure: Heat (A ) t o 75C. Add ( B ) and rehea t t o 75C. Add (C) s l o w l y ,
w i t h a g i t a t i o n . M ix f o r 30 minu tes , m a i n t a i n i n g tempera ture a t 75C. Cool s l o w l y w h i l e a g i t a t i n g s l o w l y . Add (D) a t 35C. Prepare ae roso l shav ing cream cans and p ressu re f i l l each can w i t h 3% t o 4% isobutane-propane, 40 p s i g t o 46 p s i g .
Nonionic Aerosol Foam
I n q r e d i e n t s : A C e t y l a l c o h o l
B r i j 721s
B Water, d e i o n i zed S o r b i c a c i d
C Fougere Lavender, F r i t z s c h e , D&O
-PRESSURIZE-
D Above c o n c e n t r a t e (160.0g) D i f l u o r o ethane, Dymel 152A ( 8 m ls )
96w/w 4 . 3 0 2.20
93.25 0 . 1 7
0 . 0 8
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n and add (C) a t 35C. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 w i t h d i l u t e NaOH. Add water t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Cont inue a g i t a t i o n u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i s low enough t o pou r .
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat (A) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 7%. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h
350 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
After Shave Balm D r y F l o PC i s a h i g h l y water r e s i s t a n t s t a r c h , p r o v i d e s a
s i l k y smooth e l e g a n t f e e l , and i s t a l c f r e e . I n q r e d i e n t s : %w/w Phase A : E s t o l 1550 4.00 C u t i n a CP 2.50 Lonzest 143-S 3.00 I v a r l a n 3230 1.50 Phase B: Dei o n i zed Water 61.60 A l c o l e c BS 1 .oo Carbopol 941 (2% Aq. S o l n . ) 10.00 NaOH (25%) 0.40 Methy lparaben 0.15 Propylparaben 0 .15 Phase C : G l y c e r i n (99.5%) 7 . 0 0 Dry-F lo PC 8.00 Phenoxyethanol 0 . 2 0 Phase D: Fragrance 0.50 Procedure:
Combine Phase B, heat t o 80C. Combine Phase A, heat t o 80C. A t 80C add A t o 9, mix f o r 15 minu tes . Cool t o 40C. Phase C; s l u r r y Dry-F lo PC i n t o G l y c e r i n , add t o A/B a t 40C. Add Phenoxy e t h a n o l , mix w e l l . Add Phase D. M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co.: Formula 8062-16
Shave Gel The p r o d u c t w i l l r a i s e t h e h a i r o f f t h e f a c e t o make f o r
a c l o s e r c u t w i t h o u t i r r i t a t i o n . The Hexanedio l Behenyl Beeswax s t a b i l i z e s t h e s i l i c o n e o i l t o l e a v e t h e s k i n s i l k y and smooth. Phase A : Hexanedio l Behenyl Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 3.0% Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2.0% Permethyl 104A (Permethy l ) 3.0% Polybutene (Amoco) 4.0% I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) 0.6% P a l m i t i c A c i d ( P r o c t o r & Gamble) 1.4% Phase B: P u r i f i e d Water 63.9% T r i e thano l ami ne (Dow) 0.8% Carbopol 940 2% d i s p e r s i o n (B.F. Goodr ich) 12.0% A l o e Vera Gel ( A c t i v e Organ ics) 0.8% Phase C: S i l i c o n e 345 (Dow) 6.7% A1 1 a n t o i n ( S u t t o n ) 0.8% Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n ) , 1.0%
Heat and mix Phase A and add t o a heated and mixed Phase 9. Cool t o 50C and add phase C, one a t a t i m e . Cool t o 40C and pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r s .
o r a t e d i n t o t h i s t y p e o f fo rmula , w i t h o n l y min imal changes i n s t a b i l i t y and per formance. SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Fragrances, a c t i v e s and o t h e r s i l i c o n e o i l s can be i n c o r p -
Shaving Products 351
After Shave Conditioner
T h i s mu l t i - phase emuls ion (o/w/a) i s v e r y s t a b l e and has wonder fu l s k i n f e e l . Besides t h e p r e v i o u s l y ment ioned advantages. Cera B e l l i n a produces a p r o d u c t w i t h good v i s c o s i t y c h a r a c t e r - i s t i c s i n a p r o d u c t o f l ow s o l i d s c o n t e n t .
O i l Phase: L i g h t M i n e r a l O i 1, Carna t ion (Wi t c o ) Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos te r Keunen) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel ) Deodor ized Orange Wax V i tam in E (Van Dyk) P ropy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
Water Phase: Water ( d i s t i l l e d ) Bu ty lene G l y c o l (Arco) G l y c e r o l (Unichema) Methy l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) T r i e thano l ami ne (Dow)
A lcoho l Phase: SDA-30 (Quantum) Benzocaine ( N a t i o n a l S t a r c h ) Carboxy Me thy l C e l l u l o s e (Hercu les )
Procedure:
7.5% 4 .0% 3 . 3 % 2 . 0 % 0 I 5% 0 . 1 %
64.0% 5.0% 1 .O% 0.3% 1 .O%
1 0 . 0 % 1 .O% 0.3%
Combine components o f t h e wax phase i n a v e s s e l , m e l t and mix m a i n t a i n i n g a tempera tu re o f 75C. Heat t h e wa te r phase t o 75C i n a separa te vessel making su re t h e components a r e a l l d i s s o l v e d . S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e wa te r phase under low shear . Cool t o 35 t o 40C and t h e n add t h e a l c o h o l phase under low shear . T h i s w i l l ensure t h a t t h e f r i c t i o n w i l l n o t i n c r e a s e t h e tempera tu re which w i l l evaporate t h e a l c o h o l .
A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : A l t e r a t i o n s i n component c o n c e n t r a t i o n s can be achieved by
t h e a d d i t i o n o f t h e secondary e m u l s i f y i n g agen ts . T h i s w e l l a l l o w f o r a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s t o be added a t t h e same t i m e as m a i n t a i n - i n g t h e s t a b i l i t y and r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s .
SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
352 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Alcohol Free After Shave Lotion
Ingredients: Part I: Water Phenyl Dimethicone Carbomer 940 Triethanolamine (99%) Part 11: Water Phospholipid SV Mentho 1
% by Weight
66.00 1.50 0.30 0.60
30.00 1.00 0.10
Procedure:
water. After the Carbomer 940 is dissolved, add triethanolamine. In a separate container blend and heat the water, menthol and Phospholipid SV to 75-8OC. When dissolved, blend Part I1 to Part I mixing well. Add color, fragrance and preservative as required and package.
Slurry Carbomer 940 into Dimethicone then mix well with the
Conditioning After Shave Toner
Part I: Water Carbomer 940 (Premix) Phenyl Dimethicone (Premix) Triethanolamine (99%) Part 11: Water Phospholipid SV SD3A Alcohol
% by Weight
51.00 0.35 2.00 0.60
30.05 1.00
15.00
Procedure: Part I:
Slurry Carbomer 940 into water by first mixing it with Phenyl Dimethicone. Allow to mix until homogenous. When Part I1 is ready, neutralize Part I with TEA. Add Part I1 and blend together until a smooth lotion is formed. Part 11:
Mix water and Phospholipid SV. Heat to 6 5 with agitation until the Phospholipid SV is dissolved. Cool to 30-40C and add SD3A alcohol. Add to Part I.
SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Suggested Formulations
Shaving Products 353
Brushless Shave Cream
T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n f e a t u r e s Vanseal NACS-30, sodium c o c o y l - s a r c o s i n a t e , Vanseal CS, c o c o y l s a r c o s i n e and po tass ium cocoate as h i g h foaming y e t m i l d s u r f a c t a n t s . S o r b i t o l adds humectancy w h i l e PVP and t a l c p r o v i d e l u b r i c i t y . S t e a r i c a c i d , p ropy lene g l y c o l s t e a r a t e , and c e t y l a l c o h o l a r e i n c l u d e d as t h i c k e n e r s and t o p r o v i d e p l e a s a n t a f t e r - f e e l .
I n a r e d i e n t : A Vanseal NACS-30
Vanseal CS Dei o n i zed Water Potassium Cocoate ( 2 ) So rb i t o 1 , 70% PVP ( 3 )
% by W t . 15.00 2.50
25.75 35 .OO
5 .00 0.75
5.00 B T a l c ( 4 )
C S t e a r i c A c i d Propy lene G l y c o l S t e a r a t e (5 ) C e t y l A l coho l
7 . 0 0 2.50 1 .50
D P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, Fragrance q . s .
(2 ) L i q u i d Coconut Soap, 40%
( 4 ) A G I T a l c (5 ) Cerasynt PA
(3 ) PVP K-30
P r e p a r a t i o n : Mix A i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r and hea t t o 55C w i t h g e n t l e s t i r -
r i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add B t o A w i t h adequate a g i t a t i o n . Heat C t o 60C. Add C t o ( A + B), m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m and homogeneous. Cool t o 30C and add D .
Cons is tency : F lowab le ge l ( V i s c o s i t y : 2500-3500 cps)
Suggested Packaging: P l a s t i c b o t t l e o r pump.
Comments : T h i s p r o t o t y p e fo rmu la i s des igned t o se rve as a gu ide f o r
t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.
SOURCE: R.T. V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Formula No. 434
354 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Emulsion for Shaving
I n s r e d i e n t s : A C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l
A r l a c e l 186 B r i j 721s
B Water, d e i o n i zed
C * D o w i c i l 200
*q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
%w/w 3 .00 1 . o o 3 .00
9 3 . 0 0
Procedure:
s t i r . Cool t o about 35C and add (C) and water t o compensate f o r t h e l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . S t i r t o room tempera ture and package. A d j u s t pH t o 5-6. Formula C P 1082
Heat ( A ) t o 70C and heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o (A) and
Soap Free - Nonionic Shaving Emul
I n n r e d i e n t s : A C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l
A r l a c e l 186 B r i j 7 2 1 s
B Water, d e i o n i z e d Sorbo, 70% s o r b i t o
C * D o w i c i l 200
* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d
s o l u t i on
e n t s .
%w/w 3 .00 1 . o o 3 .00
83.00 1 0 . 0 0
Procedure:
Cool t o about 35C and add (C) and water t o compensate f o r t h e loss due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . S t i r t o room tempera ture and package. A d j u s t pH t o 5-6. Formula CP 1091
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat (A) t o 70C and heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and s t i r .
Shaving Products 355
Hemostatic After Shave
I n q r e d i e n t s : 1 A ) I r g a s a n DP 300 2 Crodamol DA 3 Ethanol 95%
4 B) P r o p y l e n g l y c o l USP 5 Water demine ra l i zed
6 C) Fragrance: Courage 0/243101
7 D) C e p h a l i p i n
Procedure: D i s s o l v e phase A ) . M ix phase B ) . S low ly add phase B) t o phase A) . Then add i t e m ( 6 ) . F i n a l l y add i t e m ( 7 ) .
A p p l i c a t i o n No. I 001.A/4.91
Shaving Foam
I nared i e n t s : 1 Water demine ra l i zed 2 G l y c e r i n 3 T r ie thano lamine 95% 4 Genapol LRQ l i q u i d
6 S t e a r i c A c i d 7 L u v i t o l EHO 8 Nipaso l M 9 BHT 10 Cocamide DEA 1 1 Fragrance 12 C e p h a l i p i n 13 P h y t a l u r o n a t e
Procedure:
A p p l i c a t i o n No. I 003.0/02.93
SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
5 Euxyl K-200
The f i l l i n g da ta a r e : Concent ra te 95% I sobutane ( a t 3,2 p s i ) 5%
?6 w/w 0.01 1 ;oo
50,OO
2,oo 44 n 49
0,50
2,oo
% w/w 71,08 4.00 31 21 5,OO 0,30 8,30 1 ,oo 0,20 0,Ol 0,40 0,50 3,OO 3,OO
3-56 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shaving Creme
A .
0.
C.
S o f t i s a n 601 M i g l y o l 812 Mar lowet TA 6 I m w i t o r 900
NaCl Ampholyt J B 1 3 0 Locron L Water
Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e
t o 1
%
12.0 5 . 0 3 . 0
5 . 0 5 . 0 5 . 0
0 0 . 0
qs qs
20 .E
P r e p a r a t i o n : The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e mixed t o g e t h e r and heated t o
75-8OC. 6 . i s heated t o t h e same tempera ture and g r a d u a l l y s t i r r e d i n t o A. Perfume i s i n t r o d u c e d a t approx . 30C.
Shaving Gel
A .
B .
Mar7 i n a t 242/28 Ampholyt J B 130 Marlamid DF 1218 A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d Water
S o f t i g e n 767 Perfume Sicomet Pa ten tb lau* P r e s e r v a t i v e
% 50 .E 1 0 . 0 5 . 0 1 . o
to 1 0 0 . 0
2 . 0 qs
0 . 0 5 q s
*Sicornet Pa ten tb lau (Pa ten t b l u e ) 80E 131 1% i n S o f t i g e n 767
P r e p a r a t i o n : The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e mixed t o g e t h e r and warmed t o
approx . 40C. The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f 6 . a r e mixed t o g e t h e r and added t o A . V i s c o s i t y a t 20C measured i n a B r o o k f i e l d v i s c o - meter : 1900 mPa.s.
SOURCE: Huls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Suggested Formu la t i ons
Shaving Products 357
Ultra Aerosol Shave Cream for Sensitive Skin
Veegum U l t r a , magnesium aluminum s i l i c a t e , i s used i n t h i s emuls ion fo rmu la t o improve t h e s t a b i l i t y o f t h e l u x u r i o u s l a t h e r produced by combin ing Vanseal NACS-30 (sodium cocoy l s a r c o s i n a t e ) w i t h s t e a r i c and coconut a c i d soaps. Vanox PCX a c t s as an a n t i - o x i d a n t i n t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n .
I n a r e d i e n t : Veegum U l t r a (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e ) Dei on i zed Water
G1 yce r i n T r ie thano lamine
S t e a r i c A c i d XXX Coconut A c i d ( 2 ) M i n e r a l O i l C e t y l A l coho l Vanox PCX (BHT)
Vanseal NACS-30 (Sodium Cocoyl Sa rcos ina te ) Methylparaben Fragrance
( 2 ) Emery 622
% by W t . 1 . o o
75.80
3 .00 4.00
6 .00 1 . 3 0 2 - 5 0 1 . o o 0 . 2 0
5 . 0 0 0 .20
q . s
Procedure:
e l l e r m ixe r a t 700 rpm. Inc rease t h e m ixe r speed t o 1700 r p m and mix f o r 30 m inu tes . Add t h e B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o rde r shown w h i l e m i x i n g a t 1700 rpm and h e a t i n g t o 75C. Mix t h e C i n g r e d - i e n t s and hea t t o 75C. S low ly add C t o (A and 8 ) . A d j u s t t h e m ixe r speed t o a v o i d a i r entrapment and excess i ve foaming. M ix f o r 10 minu tes a t 75C, t h e n s low t h e m ixe r w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 30C. Add t h e D i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown and mix each u n t i l un i fo rm. Package i n ae roso l c o n t a i n e r s u s i n g 9 5 . 0 w t % o f Formula N o . 451 and 5 .0 w t . % A-46 p r o p e l l e n t .
Produc t C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s :
S i f t Veegum U l t r a i n t o t h e water w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p rop-
V i s c o s i t y : 500-700 cps pH: 8 . 0 + - 0 . 2
Comments :
development o f new p roduc ts o r t h e improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Fo rmu la t i on No. 451
T h i s p r o t o t y p e fo rmu la i s des igned t o serve as a gu ide f o r t h e
Soap and Hand Cleaners 359
Economy Heavy-Duty Hand Cleaners
Rhodapon s0 82081s A1 kamide LE Rhodacal A-246/L T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e O l e i c A c i d G l y c e r i n e A1 kamu 1 s EGMS Sodium C h l o r i d e Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
Rhodapon SB 8208/S A1 kamide D I N 295/S Rhodacal A-246/L T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e O l e i c A c i d G1 y c e r i ne A1 kamul s EGMS Sodi um C h l o r i d e Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
Wt.%
3 . 8
17.5 0 . 7
0 . 5 1 . o 0 . 6 0.9
Q.S. 3-4
Q . S . t o 100
Wt.% 17.5 0 .7
0 . 5 1 . o 0 . 5 0 . 9
Q.S.
3.8
2-3
Q.S. t o 100
Procedure:
smooth a g i t a t i o n , b l e n d i n i n g r e d i e n t s as l i s t e d . Cool t o 30-35C and b l e n d i n f r a g r a n c e , dye, p r e s e r v a t i v e .
T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i es :
Charge water i n t o r e a c t o r and warm t o 75-8OC. W i t h r a p i d b u t
Appearance @ 25C: P e a r l , l o t i o n - l i ke l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 4,000-5,000 cps
Formula HA-0097
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc: Suggested Formula t ions
360 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Emulsion Cleaner
I n g r e d i e n t s : Water Acusol 820 S t a b i 1 i z e r (30%) Deodor i zed Kerosene NaOH (50%)
% as Suppl ie.d 8 8 . 1
1 . 7 10 .0
0 . 2
B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y cps , @ 0 . 5 rpm: 21,000 @ 12 rpm: 2,300
pH: 9 . 2
M i x i ng I n s t r u c t i o n s : Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e l i s t e d o r d e r . H i gh-shear m i x i ng i s necessary t o d i sperse t h e s o l v e n t s
(kerosene, o i l )
Waterless Hand Cleaner
I n q r e d i e n t s : Water Acusol 820 S t a b i l i z e r (30%) NPElO Deodorized Kerosene M i n e r a l O i l NaoH (50%)
% as Suppl i e d 47.1
1 . 7 3 . 0
38 .0 10 .0
0.2
B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y cps, @ 0 . 5 rpm: 4,000,000 pH: 7 . 8
Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e l i s t e d o r d e r . H i gh-shear m i x i ng i s necessary t o d i sperse t h e s o l v e n t s
M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s :
(kerosene, o i 1 ) . SOURCE: Rohm and Haas C o . : ACUSOL 820 S t a b i l i z e r : Suggested
Fo rmu la t i ons
Soap and Hand Cleaners 361
Emulsion Cleaner and Waterless Hand CleanerEmulsion Cleaner
I n g r e d i e n t s : Water Acusol 820 S t a b i 1 i z e r (30%) Deodor ized Kerosene NaOH (50%)
B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y cps @ 0 . 5 rpm: 21,000 @ 12 rpm: 2,300
wH: 9 . 2
Waterless Hand Cleaner
I n g r e d i e n t s : Water Acusol 820 S t a b i l i z e r (30%) N P E l O Deodori zed Kerosene M i n e r a l O i l NaOH (50%)
% as s u p p l i e d
1 .7 1 0 . 0
0 . 2
88 .1
% as s u p p l i e d 47.1
1 . 7 3 . 0
10 .0 0 .2
38. o
B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y @ 0 . 5 rpm: 4,000,000 PH: 7 .8
M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s : Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e l i s t e d o r d e r . High-shear m i x i n g i s necessary t o d i s p e r s e t h e s o l v e n t s
(kerosene, o i 1 )
SOURCE: Rohm and Haas Co.: Acusol 820 S t a b i l i z e r : Suggested Formu 1 a t i on
362 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Fast Set Waterless Hand Cleaner with d-Limonene F-453
d-L i monene* Monami ne 1255 Monafax 705 G l y c e r i n e M i n e r a l O i l Water
% Bv Weiqht 40.0 12.0 0 .5 1 . o 2.0
44.5
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n .
Fo rmu la t i on P r o p e r t i e s :
Combine i n o r d e r l i s t e d , add ing water l a s t w i t h good
Phys ica l Appearance: White r i n g i n g ge l
* TABS-D from Union Camp may be s u b s t i t u t e d for d-Limonene
Clear Geld-Limonene Waterless Hand Cleaner F-454
d - L i monene* G l y c e r i n e Monami ne 1255 Monafax 785 Water
% Bv Weight 2 0 . 0 20.0 1 2 . 0
0 . 5 4 7 . 5
Procedure: Combine i n o r d e r l i s t e d , add ing water l a s t w i t h good
agi t a t i on.
Fo rmu la t i on P r o p e r t i e s : Phys i ca l Appearance:
* TABS-D (Union Camp
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s
C lea r r i n g i n g ge l
may be s u b s t i t u t e d f o r d-Limonene
I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Soap and Hand Cleaners 363
Hand CleanersHand Cleaning Paste
B 22/2: S u l f e t a l TC 50 Pur ton SFD Carboxymethyl c e l l u l o s e 100% S o f t soap Quar tz sand China c l a y Sodium t r i p o l y p h o s p h a t e Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e
Hand Cleaning Cream, Free of Solvents
T r i ethano
P a r t 8: 1,2-Propy Water
P a r t C : Perfume
4.0% 1 .O% 1 .O%
12.0% 60.0%
6.0% 1 .O%
q . s . t o make 100.0%
B 27/8: P a r t A : M u l s i f a n CPA Oxypon 288 P a r a f f i n o i l DAB O l e i c a c i d
ami ne
ene g l y c o l
P r e s e r v a t i v e
Hand Cleaning Cream with Solvent
0 27/2: P a r t A : Zusol a t 1005/85 S h e l l s o l T P a r a f f i n o i l DAB A e r o s i l 200 Perfume
P a r t 8: Oxypon 2145 E x t r a k t 52 Euxyl K 400 Water
Manufacture:
P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . P a r t A and P a r t B a r e t o be mixed s e p a r a t e l y .
4.0% 1 .O%
25.0% 5.0% 2.5%
6.0% 56.2%
0 - 2 % 0 .1%
10.5% 34.5%
9 .0% 1 .O%
0.1-0.2%
2.5% 15.0%
0.2% 27.1-27.2%
F i n a l l y add
SOURCE: Zschlmrner & Schwarr GmbH & Co,: Suggested Formula t ions
364 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand Cleaners from Concentrate Economy
M i r a c a r e ANL Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodi um C h l o r i d e Water
Pearlescent
M i r a c a r e ANL M i rasheen 202 Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water
M i r a c a r e ANL Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water
M i r a c a r e ANL Opaci f i e r E-305 Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodi urn C h l o r i de Water
Premium
Lotion
Wt.% 30.1) Q . S .
2-3 67 .5
yit&& 32 .5
7 .5 Q.S.
0.5-1 - 5 59.0
Wt.% 40.0 Q.S.
0.5-1 .5 59.0
Wt.% 37.5
0 . 5 Q .S .
1-2 60.5
Procedure:
ANL. Mix u n t i l comp le te l y u n i f o r m and t h e n b l e n d i n remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o d e s i r e d l e v e l w i t h a d d i t i o n o f sodium c h l o r i d e , as needed.
P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s : Appearance: C lea r , y e l l o w , p e a r l i z e d or opaque pH, as i s : 7-0 V i s c o s i t y : 2000-4000 cps
Formula HA-0096
Charge water i n t o m i x i n g vesse l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n M i raca re
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Soap and Hand Cleaners 365
Industrial and Institutional Liquid Hand SoapsGlucopon & AS
Water Standapol WAQ-SP Glucopon 425 CS Vel vetex BA-35 Sodium C h l o r i d e
Water Sodium LAS (60%) Glucopon 600 CSUP Vel ve tex BA-35 Standamid SD
Water Standapol ES-2 Glucopon 600 CSUP Standamid SD Vel ve tex BA-35 Sodium C h l o r i d e
Glucopon & LAS
Glucopon & AES
Glucopon & AOS
Water Sodium AOS (40%) Glucopon 600 CSUP Standamid SD Ve lve tex BA-35 Sodium C h l o r i d e
V i s c o s i t y o f Products : 4000-5000 cPs
61 .O 27.0
6 . 0 2 .8 3 .2
77.2 10.0 8.0 2 .8 2.0
58.9 30.0
6 . 0 1 . o 2 .8 1 .3
67.0 20.0
6 . 0 1 . o 2 .8 3 . 2
Procedure:
u s i n g moderate a g i t a t i o n . A d j u s t pH t o 6.5-7.0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . I n c o r p o r a t e c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e as needed.
SOURCE: Henkel Corp.: Suggested Formula t ions
Add i n t h e o rde r l i s t e d , d i s s o l v i n g each i n g r e d i e n t comple te ly
366 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Liquid Hand Soap Concentrate (Antimicrobial)
Comvonents: Ve lve tex BA-35 G l y c e r i n e Propy lene G l y c o l T r i c l o s a n * Glucopon 625 CSUP Sodium C h l o r i d e Te t rasod i um EDTA Standapol WAQ-LC
m 11.7 1.0 1 . o 1 . o
15.6 2.0 1 . o
66.7
Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r 1 i s t e d I d i s s o l v i ng each i ngred i e n t comp le te l y
u s i n g moderate a g i t a t i o n . A d j u s t pH t o 6 .5 -7 .0 w i t h C i t r i c Ac id . I n c o r p o r a t e p r e s e r v a t i v e ; c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e as needed.
For use, c o n c e n t r a t e shou ld be d i l u t e d by t h e a d d i t i o n of 25 w t % c o n c e n t r a t e t o 71.5 w t % d e i o n i z e d water and 3.5 w t % sodium c h l o r i d e s o l u t i o n (25%). The r e s u l t i n g c l e a r l i q u i d hand soap w i l l have a v i s c o s i t y o f app rox ima te l y 6,000 cps. * May a l s o use P-Chloromela x y l e n o l (PCMX)
Waterless Hand Cleaner (Gel)
O i l Phase: Deodori zed Kerosene Emersol 213 T r y c o l 5963 Standamid KD Water Phase: Water T r ie thano lamine G l y c e r i n e
Waterless Hand Cleaner (Lotion)
O i l Phase: Oeodori zed Kerosene Emersol 213 G l y c e r i n e o r PEG S t e a r a t e Water Phase: Water T r i e thano l ami ne Propy lene G1 y c o l Glucopon 425 CS
40.0 7.5 5.0 1 . o m 41 .O 3.5 2.0
W a 40.0 7.5 2.0
40.0 3.0 3.0 4.5
Procedure:
h e a t i n g b o t h t o 60C. S low ly pour t h e o i l i n t o t h e wa te r w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Cont inue s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g u n t i l a homogeneous p roduc t i s formed. I n c o r p o r a t e c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e as needed.
SOURCE: Henkel C o r p , : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Mix t h e o i l and water phases s e p a r a t e l y i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d ,
Soap and Hand Cleaners 367
Liquid Hand Soap Formulations
Miracare ANK is also an ideal base for preparation ofemollient "Liquid Hand Soap" products. The rich creamy lathertypical of formulations derived from Miracare ANK is extremelystable even in the presence of heavy soils.
Lotion Hand SoapRequires No Heat
Water 61.0Miracare ANK 30.0Mirasheen 202 7.5Fragrance, Dye, Preservative Q.S.Sodium Chloride 1 .5
Blending Procedure:Charge water into mixing vessel and blend balance of ingred-
ients in order listed.
Cream Soap(Requires Heat)
Water 62.0Mi racare ANK 35.0Alkamuls EGMS 1 .5Fragrance, Dye, Preservative Q.S.Sodium Chloride 1 .5
Blending Procedure:Charge water and ANK into mixing vessel and heat to 75C.
Add and disperse Alkamuls EGMS. Cool with mixing to 4OC and blendin remaining ingredients.
Liquid Hand Soap
Parts bv WeightRhodaterge SMC 8Water 92Perfume, Dye, Preservative Q.S.
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc: Suggested Formulations
368 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Liquid Soap
Mar l i n a t 242/28 Mar l i n a t CM 105 Amphol y t JA 140 D i o n i l O C / K Lamepon S Camomi 1 e Speci a1 Lime Blossom Spec ia l Co l lagen CLR Perfume Co lour P r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl Water t o 1
% 32 .0 1 8 . 0 1 0 . 0
3 . 0 2 . 0 0 . 5 0 . 5 0 . 8
qs qs qs qs
100.0
P r e p a r a t i o n :
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
Liquid Soap
M a r l i n a t 242/28 Lamepon S M a r l i n a t DFN 30 Mar lamid PG 20 Mar lamid DF 1218 Perfume Col our P r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl Water
%
1 0 . 0 6 . 0 3.0 1 . o qs qs qs qs
t o 1 0 0 . 0
22 .o
P r e p a r a t i on :
u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics:
The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d
Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
0 21/65: Ze teso l NL Pur ton SFD Sodi um s u l f a t e Perfume C i t r i c a c i d Water, p r e s e r v a t i ve
Soap and Hand Cleaners 369
Liquid Synthetic Soaps
0 21/64: E x t r a k t 52 Pur ton SFD Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e , sodium
c h l o r i d e
43.00% 3.00% 3.00% 0.20% 0.05%
q . s . t o make 100.00%
30.0% 2.0%
q . s . t o make 100.0%
0 21/61: Ze teso l 856 T S e t a c i n 103 Spez ia l P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055 Pur ton SFD Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e , perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e ,
c i t r i c a c i d q . s
B 21/92: Ze teso l 2056 S e t a c i n 103 s p e z i a l P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4175 Oxypon 288 Sodium c h l o r i d e Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e
0 21/87: Ze teso l 2056 Amphotensid B 4 Pur ton CFD Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e
25.0% 10.0% 5.0% 1 .O%
t o make 100.0%
25 I 0% 30.0% 10.0% 2.0% 2,0%
q . s . t o make 100,0%
20 I 0% 9.0% 1 .5% 0.3%
q . s . t o make 100.0%
SOURCE: Zschdmmer & Schwarr GmbH & Co. : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
370 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Liquid Soap with Aloe Vera Gel
T h i s i s a c l e a n s i n g and c o n d i t i o n i n g l i q u i d soap w i t h A loe Vera.
Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e , 28% a c t i v e 35.70 Ammonium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , 26% a c t i v e 19.20 Phase B: C i t r i c a c i d , anhydrous 0 . 2 0 Phase C : Dei o n i zed water 20.45 Polyquaternium-10 0 .75 Phase D: Laurami de DEA 3.00 L a u r y l methyl g luce th -10 hyd roxyp ropy l dimonium c h l o r i d e 8.00
PEG-120 methy l g lucose d e o l e a t e 2.00 T e t r a s o d i urn EDTA 0 I20 Phase E: A loe Vera Gel ( T e r r y AG002) 10 .00 Phase F: S u t t o c i d e A 0.30 Fragrance qs Procedure:
Add Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s t o main m i x i n g vesse l , and combine w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Heat t o 60C. D i s s o l v e Phase B i n g r e d i e n t s . I n a p remix c o n t a i n e r , d i s p e r s e Phase C i ngred i e n t s Heat t o 60C t o h y d r a t e . When Phase A i s un i fo rm, add Phase C t o main vesse l , a g i t a t i n g between each a d d i t i o n . Cool ba tch t o 40C. S low ly add Phases E and F w i t h adequate m i x i n g . SOURCE: T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on
Pearlescent Liquid Hand Soap
Phase A : m
I n a r e d i e n t : Water DOBSA, Na s a l t (60%)
Add, mix w e l l L a u r y l e t h e r s u l f a t e , Ammon. s a l t (60%)
Add, mix w e l l L y t r o n 295 opaci f i e r
Add, mix w e l l Euper lan PK-771 p e a r l i z e r
Add, mix w e l l Tomah A0-728 Spec ia l
Add, mix w e l l
- W t % 54.70 23.50
16.50
0.10
2 . 2 0
3 .00
pH: 7.85 Recommended D i l u t i o n s : 1 o t . / g a l A p p l i c a t i o n s : Hand soap o r dishwash Notes: H igh foam, d e g r e a s i n g - l a n o l i n can be added f o r f e e l
V i s c o s i t y 360 cps
SOURCE: Tomah L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . : Formula PC-101
Soap and Hand Cleaners 371
Low Cost Clear Cleansing Bar
I n a r e d i e n t s : - % P a r t A : Propy lene G1 y c o l 11 . o G1 y c e r i n 7 . 0 Crovol PK-70 (PEG-45 Palm Kernel G l y c e r i d e s ) 3 .0 Incromectan t AMEA-70 (Acetamide MEA) 9.3 C r o d a s i n i c LS30 (Sodi um Lauroy l Sarcos i n a t e ) 6 . 7 Incromide CAC (Cocamide DEA Cocoyl Sarcos ine) 7 .0 Tea ls* 9 .0 Dei on i zed Water 6 . 0 Sodium Cumenesulfonate (45%) 2.0 TEA (99%) 2.0 P a r t B : Sucrose 9 . 0 P a r t C : Ta l l ow Soap #7325 28.0 Procedure:
Add P a r t 0 w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 95-1OOC. M i x i n g u n t i l t a l l o w i s d i s s o l v e d (20-30 m i n u t e s ) . Avo id water l o s s by c o v e r i n g m i x i n g v e s s e l . Sk in o f f s u r f a c e foam and pour i n t o molds. A l l o w molded soap t o coo l I
SOURCE: Croda I n c , : Fo rmu la t i on SC-252
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and hea t t o 80-9OC.
N.A.T.C. Approved *Standami de T
Shower Soap
Weight .% Mackanate EL (Disodium Laure th S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 20.0 Mackanate OM ( D i sodi um 01 eamido MEA Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) 15.0 Sodi um L a u r y l - S u l f a t e 1 0 . 0 Mackami de LLM (Laurami de DEA) 6.0 Mackpearl LV ( P e a r l Agent) 3.0 Mackernium 007 (Po lyquatern ium 7 ) 2.5 Macksta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) 9s C i t r i c A c i d qs t o pH 6.0 Sodium C h l o r i d e qs t o 10,000 cps Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0 Procedure: 1. D ispe rse Mackernium 007 i n wa te r . 2. Add rema in ing component and heat t o 40 degrees C . 3. A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 4. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . 5 . Cool and f i l l .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on
372 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
"Medicated" Skin Cleaner
Rhodapon LT-6 RhodaDon 21 LS
Wt.% 25.0 3 0 . 0
50% Sodi u m Hydrox i de Aqueous Sol u t i on l . S . t o pH 8 . 0 PCMX 1 . o Water 23.4 Alkamide DL 203/S 2 . 5 C y c l o t e r i c BET C 30 7 . 5 Geropon SBFA 30 1 0 . 0 A1 kamu 1 s EGMS 0 . 6 Fragrance and Dye Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Charge Rhodapon LT-6 and Rhodapon 21LS i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l .
Warm system t o 45-50C. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , a d j u s t pH t o 8 . 0 w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n (50% Aq. ) , as needed.
M i x u n t i l system i s c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m .
and w a t e r . Heat system t o 70-75C w i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n .
A1 kamul s EGMS. M a i n t a i n 70-75C tempera ture u n t i 1 system i s c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . Cool t o 40-45C and b l e n d i n compat ib le f r a g r a n c e and dye.
Appearance: V iscous, p e a r l e s c e n t l i q u i d pH ( a s i s ) : 8 .0 -8 .5 V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 10,000-14,000 cps Approx. S o l i d s ( % ) : 30.4 A c t i v e I n g r e d i e n t : Parach lo rometaxy leno l (PCMX) Formula HA-0100
2. W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n PCMX.
3 . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n Alkamide DL 203/S
4. S lowly b l e n d i n C y c l o t e r i c BET C 30, Geropon SBFA 30 and
T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i e s A f t e r 24 Hours:
Heavy-Duty Hand Cleaner Wt.%
Rhodapon S 0 8208/S 30.0 Rhodacal A-246/L 6 .3 O l e i c A c i d 1 . 6 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 . 9 M i rasheen 202 10.0 Sodium C h l o r i d e 1-3 Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Q . S . Water Q.S t o 100 Procedure:
Mirasheen 202 and Water i n t o r e a c t o r and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . S l o w l y b l e n d i n o l e i c a c i d f o l l o w e d by f ragrance, dye, p r e s e r v - a t i v e . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y by b l e n d i n g i n sodium c h l o r i d e . Cont inue a g i t a t i o n u n t i l system i s u n i f o r m and then package. T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :
Charge Rhodapon SB 8208/S, Rhodacal A-246/L, Tr ie thano lamine,
Appearance: Whi te , p e a r l i z e d l i q u i d pH, as i s : 7-8 V i s c o s i t y : 2000-3000 cps Formula HA-0098
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc: Suggested Formula t ions
Soap and Hand Cleaners 373
Mild Lotion Soap
Rhodapon L-22 Rhodapex MA-360 C y c l o t e r i c BET-C-30 A1 kamide DC 212/S Geropon SBFA-30 A1 kamul s EGMS C i t r i c A c i d Sodium C h l o r i d e Water Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e
Wt.% 17.0 3 .0 2 .0 1 . 5 5 .0 1 . o
0 .5 -1 .5 Q . S . t o pH 5-6
69 .5 Q.S.
Procedure:
L-22, Rhodapex MA-360, C y c l o t e r i c BET-C-30, Alkamide DC 212/S, and Rhodacal SBFA-30. Mix u n t i 1 comp le te l y u n i f o r m . Heat systems t o 65-70C. D isperse Alkamuls EGMS i n t o heated system and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 40-45C and b l e n d i n c i t r i c a c i d , f r a g - rance, dye and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Add sodium c h l o r i d e , as needed, t o a d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n t o d e s i r e d range (3,000-6,000 cps a t 25C).
T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i es :
Charge water i n t o m i x i n g vesse l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n Rhodapon
Appearance a t 25C: Pear lescen t l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 25C: 3,000-6,000 cps (as d e s i r e d ) pH (as i s ) : 5-6 % S o l i d s : 13.5-14.5
Formula HA-0103
Liquid Hand Soap
M i r a t a i n e CB Rhodapon LSB Cyclomide DC-212/S Water
Procedure:
mix u n t i l u n i f o r m .
P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :
Add t h e wa te r . W i th mix
Appearance: C lea r , v e r y
V i scos i t y : 600-700 S p e c i f i c G r a v i t y : 1 .04
Formula HA-0071
pH: 8 .9 -9 .0
ng, add t h e remain
l i g h t y e l l o w s o l u t
Wt.% 10.0 30.0
2.0 58.0
ng m a t e r i a l s and
on
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc: Sugeested Fo rmu la t i ons
374 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Premium Emollient Hand Soap
Rhodacal A-246/L C y c l o t e r i c BET-C 30 Alkamide LE Alkamul EGMS D i sodi um EDTA G l y c e r i n e C i t r i c A c i d Sodium C h l o r i d e Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
Wt.% 23 .0
4.5 1 . 5 2 . 0 0 . 1 0 .2
Q.S. t o pH 6 .2-6 .7 Q.S. t o 3,000-5,000 cps
Q . S . Q.S. t o 100
Procedure:
a t i o n , warm t o 70-75C. Blend i n Alkamide LE, Alkamul EGMS, Disodium EDTA and G l y c e r i n e . Once system i s un i fo rm, coo l t o 35C w i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n and b lend i n f rag rance , dye, p res - e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 6.2-6.7 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d and add sodium c h l o r i d e as needed t o v i s c o s i t y t o 3,000-5,000 cps (25C).
T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :
Combine Rhodacal A-246/L and Water and w i t h moderate a g i t -
Appearance: P e a r l i z e d l i q u i d pH, as i s : 6 .2 -6 .7 V i s c o s i t y : 3000-5000 cps
Formula HA-0095
Hand Cleaner
M i rano l C2M Conc. NP M i r a t a i n e CB Rhodapon LSB Water
Wt.% 16.0 5.0
1 6 . 0 6 3 . 0
A d j u s t pH t o 7 .5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .
Procedure:
mix u n t i l un i fo rm.
Phys i ca l P r o p e r t i e s :
Add t h e wa te r . W i th m ix ing , add t h e remain ing m a t e r i a l s and
Appearance: S l i g h t l y hazy g e l pH: 7 .5 V i scos i t y : 1500-2000 Speci f i c Gravi t y : 1 .040B
Formula HA-0070
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc: Suggested Formula t ions
Soap and Hand Cleaners 375
A l l q u a n t i t i e s i n d i c a t e d expressed as p a r t s by we igh t a r e on a percentage b a s i s so any s i z e b a t c h may be conven
n t h e f o l l o w i n g f o r m u l a t i o n s a r e o f t h e f i n i s h e d soap. These w e i g h t s t h a t q u a n t i t i e s necessary t o produce e n t l y c a l c u l a t e d .
6) Triethanolamine Oleic-Coconut Shampoo (40% Real Soap)Emery 621 Coconut F a t t y A c i d ( a c i d v a l u e 263) 12.7 Emery 213 Low T i t e r O l e i c A c i d ( a c i d v a l u e 203) 12 .7 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (avg. mol . w t . 140) 1 4 . 7 Carb i t o 1 7.0 Water t o 100.0
Procedure: B lend t h e o l e i c and coconut f a t t y a c i d s . D i s s o l v e t h e t r i -
ethanolamine i n t h e r e q u i r e d amount o f water and proceed as f o r t h e coconut shampoo, fo rmula 4, w i t h t h e e x c e p t i o n t h a t h e a t i n g i s n o t e s s e n t i a l . Longer s t a n d i n g i s r e q u i r e d w i t h o u t h e a t , b u t t h e a b i l i t y t o make soaps w i t h o u t h e a t i n g may be v a l u a b l e i n p a r t i c u l a r s i t u a t i o n s . P r o p e r t i e s and V a r i a t i o n s :
v e r y m i l d and n o n i r r i t a t i n g . The C a r b i t o l g i v e s t h e soap a p l e a s i n g odor and c o n t r i b u t e s t o t h e c l e a n s i n g power of t h e shampoo.
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e soaps cannot be checked f o r n e u t r a l i t y by t h e usual methods, b u t even i f an excess o f t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e i s p r e s e n t , t h e soap w i 11 be on1 y m i 1 d l y a1 k a l i ne.
T h i s soap produc t i s a c l e a r l i q u i d o f amber t o r e d c o l o r ,
7) Coconut-Oleic Hand Soap (15% Real Soap)
Emery 621 Coconut F a t t y A c i d ( a c i d v a l u e 263) 6.5 Emersol 213 Low T i t e r O l e i c A c i d ( a c i d v a l u e 203) 6 .5 C a u s t i c po tash (100%) 3.0 Water t o 100.0
Procedure: Prepare as f o r f o r m u l a t i o n 4: D i s s o l v e t h e c a u s t i c i n t h e necessary amount o f w a t e r ,
h e a t i n g t o 49-54C (120-130F), t h e n add t h e f a t t y a c i d i n a s low steady stream. A g i t a t e w h i l e m i x i n g t h e f a t t y a c i d and c a u s t i c u n t i l s a p o n i f i c a t i o n i s complete. The r e a c t i o n m i x t u r e shou ld be heated t o 66-71C (150-16OF) d u r i n g t h e f i n a l s tages o f s a p o n i f i c a t i o n .
Perfume as d e s i r e d . A l l o w t h e soap t o s tand and s e t t l e f o r s e v e r a l days a t near f r e e z i n g temperatures, i f p o s s i b l e , and decant o r f i l t e r t h e soap. P r o p e r t i e s and V a r i a t i o n s :
D i s t i l l e d p i n e o i l o r o t h e r perfume may be added. T h i s i s a t y p i c a l fo rmula f o r soaps used i n l i q u i d soap d ispensers , and many such p r o d u c t s c o n t a i n f l u o r e s c e i n , a dye t h a t i m p a r t s a g r e e n i sh-ye1 low f 1 uorescence . SOURCE: Henkel Corp./Emery Group: F a t t y Ac ids and T h e i r
Check t h e n e u t r a l i t y o f t h e soap and a d j u s t as necessary.
Water S o l u b l e Soaps: Suggested Formula t ions
376 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Water Free Hand Cleaner
I n a r e d i e n t s : I s o s t e a r i c a c i d M i n e r a l o i l B r i j 30 Tween 81
Procedure: Mix w e l l a t room tempera tu re .
Waterless Hand Cleaner
I n g r e d i e n t s : A I s o p a r a f f i n i c hydrocarbon
Lanol i n C e t y l a1 coho1 P a r a f f i n wax A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60
B G l y c e r i n Water, d e i on i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e * q . s . t hese i ngred i e n t s .
w 2 0 . 0 0 60.00 1 5 . 0 0
5 .00
30.00 1 . 0 0 3.00 2.00 1 . o o 4.00
5 . 0 0 54.00
Procedure:
moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add water l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (B) t o 72C. Add (B) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h
Waterless Hand Cleaner
I n a r e d i e n t s : A Magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1 i c a t e
Water, d e i on i zed
B A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60 Deodori zed kerosene
C Methy l c e l l u l ose, 4000 cps Water, d e i o n i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e * q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
%w/w 2 . 5 0 30.00
2.00
35.00
0 . 5 0 22.00
8 .00
Procedure: A-Add MAS t o H20 s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g c o n t i n u a l l y u n t i l smooth.
(About 1 h o u r ) . Heat ( A ) t o 62C. 8-Heat t o 60C. Add (A) t o ( 8 ) . S t i r u n t i l c o o l . C-Heat 1/2 o f H20 t o 9OC and add m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l d i spe rsed . Add (C) t o (A&B) w i t h ag i t a t i on. SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Soap and Hand Cleaners 377
Waterless Hand Cleaner
A . M o n t m o r i l l o n i t e ( 1 ) Water
B . Potassium Hydrox ide Water
C . O l e i c A c i d Deodor ized Kerosene Po lyso rba te 80, A c e t y l a t e d Lanol i n A1 coho1 , C e t y l Ace ta te ( 2 )
Pe t ro la tum
D . Acuscrub 50 P r e s e r v a t i v e s
W S 3 . 0
39 .5
1 . 5 10
6.0 25.0
3 . 0 2.0
1 0 . 0 q . s .
Procedure: S low ly add t h e M o n t m o r i l l o n i t e t o t h e water w h i l e a g i t a t i n g
a t maximum a v a i l a b l e shear . D i s s o l v e t h e po tass ium hyd rox ide i n t h e wa te r , Add B t o A w i t h medium shear . Heat A / B t o 6 0 C . Combine C and hea t t o 65C. Cool t o 50C, then s l o w l y add Acuscrub 50 u n t i l coo led t o 30C. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e s and mix u n t i l smoo
(
A . 0
h and u n i f o r m . ) M i n e r a l C o l l o i d BP ( 2 ) S o l u l a n 98
Waterless Hand Cleaner
1 Phase: Pet ro leum D i s t i l l a t e s ( 1 ) O l e i c A c i d C12-15 Pare th-3 ( 2 ) Lanol i n
B . Water Phase: Water T r i e thano l ami ne G l y c e r i n
W S 3 0 . 0
6 .0 4 . 0 0 . 5
4 4 . 5 3.0 2 . 0
C . Acuscrub 50 10 .0
Procedure:
50 s l o w l y t o t h e o i l phase w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n , S low ly pour t h e water phase i n t o t h e o i l phase w i t h cons tan t s t i r r i n g u n t i l a smooth and u n i f o r m ge l i s formed.
Heat b o t h o i l and water phases s e p a r a t e l y t o 5 5 C . Add Acuscrub
( 1 ) S h e l l Sol 71 ( 2 ) Neodol 25-3
SOURCE: A l l i e d S igna l I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
378 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Waterless Hand Cleaner No. 390
Van Gel B
Water
Water O l e i c a c i d
Deodor ized kerosene
A CMC 7MF
B Po tass i um hyd rox ide
C Carna t ion Whi te M i n e r a l O i l
1 . 7 0 . 3
44.0 1 . o 3 .0
10 .0 10.0 30.0
P r e s e r v a t i v e q .s .
Procedure:
a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e shear . Cont inue m i x i n g u n t i l smooth. Add B t o A and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add C t o A / B and mix u n t i l emuls ion i s smooth and un i fo rm. Add d e s i r e d p res - e r v a t i ve . Cons is tency : Medi um v i scos i t y cream. Suggested Packagi ng: Pump o r wide mouth c o n t a i ner . Comments:
Van Gel B/CMC t h i c k e n s t h i s c o l d process fo rmu la t o a medium v i s c o s i t y cream w h i l e s t a b i l i z i n g t h e emulsion f rom b l e e d and s e p a r a t i o n . Potassium o l e a t e a l l o w s good c l e a n s i n g a c t i o n a t a pH o f 8 . The m ine ra l o i l m in imizes d e f a t t i n g o f t h e s k i n caused by t h e deodor ized kerosene.
Blend Van Gel B and CMC. S low ly add t o t h e water w h i l e
Liquid Waterless Hand Cleaner No. 243
Veegum
G l y c e r i n
2-Amino-2-methyl-1-propanol Deodori zed kerosene O l e i c a c i d
C A r l a c e l 186 C1 e a r l a n
A Water
B T e r g i t o l NP-10
2.0 73.0
4 .0 3 . 0 0 .5
10.0 1 . 5 5 .0 1 . o
P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .
Procedure: S low ly add Veegum t o t h e water w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum
a v a i l a b l e shear. Cont inue m i x i n g u n t i l smooth. Add B t o A and heat t o 50C. Heat C t o 55C. Add C t o A/B. M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add d e s i r e d p r e s e r v a t i v e . Cons is tency : Pourab le l i q u i d Suggested Packaging: Pump d ispenser Comments :
f o r m u l a t i o n , g l y c e r i n serves as a humectant w h i l e t h e l a n o l i n h e l p s p r e v e n t d e f a t t i n g o f t h e s k i n . SOURCE: R.T. V a n d e r b l l t Co.: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Veegum s t a b i l i z e s and t h i c k e n s t h i s l i q u i d emuls ion . I n t h i s
380 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Absorbing Sunscreen
Formula: Phase A : Veegum U l t r a Dei o n i zed Water G l y c e r i n
Phase 0: PEG-1 50 D i s t e a r a t e D i o c t y l Mal a t e C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 C e t y l A l coho l Benzophenone-3 O c t y l D ime thy l PABA S tea re th -2 Steareth-20
Phase C : P r e s e r v a t i v e , Fragrance
Synergistic Sunscreen
4- te r t -Buty l -4 -methoxyd i -benzoy lmethane Amyl N,N-dimethyl -p-ami nobenzoate 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone C e t y l a l c o h o l S t e a r i c a c i d P r o t o p e t 1 S P e t r o l a t u m O l i v e O i l Squal ane Propy lene g l y c o l Po tass i um h y d r o x i de T a l c T r i sod i um EDTA Water
%Wt.
1 .50 70.50
5.50
3 .00 2 . 0 0 4.00 0.50 3 .00 7 .00 0 .90 2.10
q . s .
2 .00% 3 .00 2.00 3.00 3 .00 3.00 3.00 5.00 3 .00 0 .20 5 .00 0.02
q . s t o 100.00
SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. : Petro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products 381
Absorbing Sunscreen
Formula: Phase A : L -Tyros i ne Phenyl a1 an i ne A s p a r t i c a c i d Esci n Copper g lucona te Hydro1 yzed c o l l agen C a r r o t o l e o r e s i n S t . John ' s Wort e x t r a c t D i hydroxyacetone C e t y l a l c o h o l P r e s e r v a t i v e E m u l s i f i e r s , t h i c k e n i n g agents Carna t ion M ine ra l O i l Lanol i n S t e a r i n T r ie thano lamine (85%) Water
0.20% 0.10 0.10 0 . 0 5 0.01 1.50 0.15 1 . o o 0.50 1 . o o
4.00 15.00 3.00 3.00 1-00
q . s . up t o 100.00
q . s .
Water Resistant SP4 Sunscreen Composition
Water G l y c e r i n P o l y g l y c e r y l - 8 o l e a t e Padimate 0 Cyclomethicone Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 Lanol i n a1 coho1 Propy lene g l y c o l (and) d i a z o l i d i n y l u rea (and)
Perfume o i l paraben (and) p r o p y l paraben (Germaben 11)
Non-Alcoholic Sunscreen
O c t y l d ime thy l PABA Benzophenone-3 Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 O le th -2 I soce te th -20 Water Propy lene g l y c o l So rb i t o 1
67.00% 5.00 3.00 4.00 10.00 5.00 5.00
0.50 0.50
methy l
7.00% 3.00 10.00 6.25
40.00 4.00
1 1 . oo
18.75
SOURCE: W i t c o Corp . : Pe t ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
382 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
After Sun Lotion
P a r t I: Water Carbomer 934
P a r t 11: Rosswax 2540 Rosswax 1824
#76
O i 1
Coconut O i l GMS SE Ross Jo joba
P a r t 111: A loe Vera L
P a r t I V : Germaben I 1
P a r t V : F ragrance
P a r t s by Wei a h t 500.0
2 . 0
6.0 15.0 25.0 6.0 4.0
q u i d 10.0
6 . 0
P a r t V I : T r i e thano lamine
q . s .
4.5
Procedure:
934 w i t h a g i t a t i o n . I n a separa te j a c k e t e d k e t t l e heat P a r t I 1 u n t i l c l e a r . Next add P a r t 111, then P a r t I V , t h e n P a r t V , f r a g r a n c e and f i n a l l y add P a r t V I . Cool t o 130F and package.
Heat t h e water i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e and add t h e Carbomer
Solar Tanning Oil Mousse
P a r t (A ) : Ross Base O i l 2539 E s c a l o l 507 A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60
P a r t ( 9 ) : Water Germaben I 1 Fragrance
% 62 .s 5.0 3.0 4.0
24.7 1 . o q . s
Procedure: Heat P a r t ( A ) and P a r t (B) i n separa te s t a i n l e s s s t e e l
v e s s e l s under g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n t o 170F. When tempera ture i s reached and b o t h a r e c l e a r , add P a r t (B) t o P a r t (A ) , coo l t o 120F, Fragrance and package. Aeroso l F i l l : 90% o f above c o n c e n t r a t e
Note : Pack i n Epon l i n e d cans w i t h P r e c i s i o n Va lve Systems.
SOURCE: Frank 9 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
10% o f A-46 Prope l l e n t
Sun Care Products 383
Aloe After Sun Lotion (40% Aloe)
I n q r e d i e n t s : A . Water
G1 y c e r i n T r ie thano lamine Germaben I 1
0 . S t e a r i c A c i d L i g h t m ine ra l o i l F i n e s o l v TN C e t y l A l coho l S i l i c o n F l u i d 225 Cocoa B u t t e r I s o p r o p y l Lano la te
Percent 74.00 3.0 1 . o 0 .5
8 .0 5 .0 2 . 0 1 . o 0.5 2.0 2.0
C . A loe Veragel L i q u i d Concent ra te 1:40 1 .o D . Fragrance q . s .
Procedure: Heat phases t o 80C. A t 80C add o i l phase t o water phase.
Mix and c o o l t o 55C. Add A loe c o n c e n t r a t e t o ba tch a t 5%. Add f r a g r a n c e a t 45C.
Suntan Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s : A . Lexemul 561
S t e a r i c a c i d C e t y l a1 coho1 M i n e r a l o i l Sesame o i l Laneth 10 Ace ta te E t h y l D i hyd roxyp ropy l PABA Mink o i l Po lyso rba te 20 Lexgard P
B. Propy lene G l y c o l Carbomer 934 Tr ie thano lamine A loe Vera L i q u i d 1:l Lexgard M Water
Percent 4.00 2.00 1 . oo 4.00 1 . oo 0.50 3.00 0.10 0.20 0.05
4.00 0.20
10.00 0.15
qs t o pH 7 .2 -7 .5
qs to 100
Procedure:
t h e n n e u t r a l i z e . D i s s o l v e Lexgard M i n p ropy lene g l y c o l and add t o t h e water w i t h t h e rema in ing c o n t e n t s o f P a r t B. Separa te l y m e l t c o n t e n t s o f P a r t A t o g e t h e r . S low ly add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o s e t p o i n t and f i l l . F u l l c o n d i t i o n i n g develops i n 24 hours. SOURCE: D r . Madjs L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat water t o 7OC. D isperse Carbomer 934. Mix u n t i l d i s s o l v e d ,
384 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Aloe Suntan Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s : A . Water
G1 yce r i n Glucamate SSG-20 Carbopol 934 P r e s e r v a t i v e s
B. G1 ucate-SS C e t y l a l c o h o l C e t y l p a l m i t a t e G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e P . E . G . 100 s t e a r a t e S t e a r i c a c i d E s c a l o l 507 M i n e r a l o i l
Percent q . s 4.0 1 .5 0 . 1 q . s
1 . 5 1 . o 1 . o 0.22 0.28 4.0 4 .0 5.0
C . A.M.P.-95 0.32
D. A loe Veragel 200 Powder 0 . 1 Water 9 . 9
Procedure: D i s s o l v e t h e S . D . A loe Vera i n water t o p repare g e l . Heat
ba lance o f water t o 80C and d i s s o l v e Carbopo l . Add r e s t o f Phase “ A ” and keep tempera ture a t 80C. Heat phase ”B” t o 80C. and add t o ” A ” . Add phase ” C ” . Cool t o 35C. and add ’ ID ” . M ix we1 1 .
After Sun Lotion
I n g r e d i e n t s : A . Water
Carbomer
B. Rosswax 2540 Rosswax 1824 Coconut O i l #6 Gms SE Ross Jo joba O i 1
Percent 500.0 g r .
2.0 g r .
6 . 0 g r . 15 .0 g r . 15.0 g r .
6.0 g r . 4.0 g r .
C . A loe Vera L i q u i d 1 : l 10.0 g r .
D . Germaben I 1 6 . 0 g r .
E . Fragrance q . s .
F . Tr ie thano lamine 4.5 g r . Procedure:
Heat t h e water i n steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e and add t h e Carbomer 934 w i t h a g i t a t i o n . I n a separa te j a c k e t e d k e t t l e , hea t B t i l l c l e a r . Next add B t o t h e water phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Next add C, t h e n D, t h e n E , f r ag rance and f i n a l l y add F. Cool t o 130F and package. SOURCE: D r . Madis L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Sun Care Products 385
Buffered Self Tanning Lotion
R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a p o u r a b l e l o t i o n t h a t c o u l d be d ispensed f rom an opaque g l a s s o r r i g i d p l a s t i c b o t t l e . The f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s a 5% Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) as t h e s e l f t a n n i n g i n g r e d i e n t . The f o r m u l a t i o n c o n t a i n s no amines t o r e a c t w i t h Dihydroxyacetone and t h e f i n a l pH i s a d j u s t e d t o a p p r o x i m a t e l y 4, t o i n s u r e n a t u r a l c o l o r e d t a n development. The f o r m u l a t i o n a p p l i e s e a s i l y and even ly . The f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t shou ld be s t o r e d away f r o m l i g h t and a t tempera ture c o n d i t i o n s below 40C t o p r e v e n t DHA f rom degrad ing .
?&& A . De ion ized Water 62.18
Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 0.20 2 ,4 -D ich lo robenzy l A l c o h o l (Myacide SP) 0.20 Propylene G l y c o l USP 3.00 G l y c e r i n 1 .oo C i t r i c A c i d USP-FCC (Anhydrous F i n e G r a n u l a r ) 0 .24 Sodium C i t r a t e USP-FCC 0.28
B. H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (Cel l o s i ze PP-15,OOOH) 0.20 C . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 2.00
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 56 ) 4.00 S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e ( A r l ace1 60) 0.60 Propy lene G1 y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ( Lexol PO-865 2.00 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Lexo l GT-865) 3.00 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Lexo l EHS) 1 . oo Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .10
D . Dihydroxyacetone 5.00 De ion i zed Water 15.00
Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A" h e a t i n g t o 75-8OC. Use a p r o p e l l e r mixer
f o r a g i t a t i o n . 2 . S p r i n k l e s e c t i o n "8" i n t o s e c t i o n " A " . I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed
t o c r e a t e a v o r t e x d u r i n g a d d i t i o n , t h e n s low t o h i g h e s t speed which does n o t produce a v o r t e x .
3. Combine s e c t i o n " C " . Heat t o 80-85C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s s low m i x i ng.
4 . When s e c t i o n s "AB" and "Cot a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g - na ted tempera tures add s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t i o n s "AB". I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed t o a h i g h speed. Begin c o o l i n g . Slow m i x i n g speed t o h i g h e s t speed p o s s i b l e t h a t w i l l n o t cause v o r t e x i n g .
and c o o l i n g .
5 . Us ing g loves , combine s e c t i o n "D" and mix u n t i l c l e a r . 6. Add s e c t i o n "D" t o s e c t i o n s "ABC" a t 35-4013. Cont inue m i x i n g
7 . A t 30-35C a d j u s t f o r water l o s s . 8 . M i x b a t c h u n t i l i t reaches room tempera ture . 9. A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 4.00-4.10 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d o r Sodium
C i t r a t e s o l u t i o n s , as r e q u i r e d .
P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s : V i s c o s i t y : 1,700 cPs @ 24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, TA @ 10 rpm) pH: 1.0 @ 24C
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co.: F o r m u l a t i o n 398-101-1
386 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cooling After Sun LotionI n g r e d i e n t s : Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 Methy l Glucose D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s (Tegosof t CT) M i n e r a l O i l Phase 8: G1 y c e r i n Water Phase C: M i n e r a l O i l Carbomer 941 Ethanol Phase D : Sodium Hydrox ide (10% s o l u t i o n ) Phase E: Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e s Procedure: 1 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o 80C. 2 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o 80C. 3 . Add A t o 0 o r €3 t o A w i t h o u t s t i r r i n g . 4. S t i r . 5 . D isperse Carbomer i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r add t o A/B. 6 . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . 7 . Add Ethano l . 8 . Add phase D / E . S t i r . 9 . M ix u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i s c o r r e c t .
w 450) 2 . 0
6 . 5 5.7
3 . 0 71.4
0 .8 0 . 2
10 .0
0 . 4
Q.S. Q . S .
Homogenize
Suntan LotionI n g r e d i e n t s : w Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 Methy l Glucose D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care 450) 2 . 0 Decyl O l e a t e (Tegosof t DO) 6 . 5
O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 7 . 0 Oxybenzone 3 . 0 Phase 8: G l y c e r i n 3 .0 Water 71 . 4 Phase C: I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegosof t P ) 0 .8 Carbomer 941 0 . 2 Phase D: Sodi urn Hydrox i de ( 1 0% s o l u t i on) 0 . 4 Phase E: Fragrance Q.S. P r e s e r v a t i ves Q . S . Procedure: 1 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o 80C. 2 . Heat t h e i n g r e d -
i e n t s o f Phase B t o 80C. 3 . Add A t o B o r B t o A w i t h o u t s t i r r i n g . 4 . S t i r . 5 . D isperse Carbomer i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r add t o A/B. Homogenize. 6. Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . 7 . Add Phase D/E. S t i r . 8 . M ix u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i s c o r r e c t .
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegosof t P) 5 . 7
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Suggested Formula t ions
Sun Care Products 387
Daily UV Protection Lotion (Approximate SPF 18)
Dermacryl LT p r o v i d e s i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e p r o t e c t i o n , r u b - o f f r e s i s t a n c e and water r e s i s t a n c e as w e l l as improved r u b - i n p r o p e r t i e s I
I n n r e d i e n t s : Phase A : Neo He l iopan B r i j 76 Cerasynt Q C e t y l A lcoho Emersol 132 T i o v e i l F IN F i n s o l v TN DC 334 F l u i d DC 556 F l u i d A b i l 88852
Phase 0:
AV
Deion ized Water T r i e thano l ami ne (99%) Dermacryl LT Neo He l iopan Hydro Carbopol 940 (2% Aq. S o l n . )
Phase C: Propy lene G l y c o l Dry -F lo PC
Phase D: Germaben I I E
7.50 1 - 0 0 1 .so 1 .oo 1.50 1.70 5.00 3.00 1 .oo 0.50
40.30 4.00 1 .oo 4.00
20.00
3.00 3.00
1 .oo
Procedure: Phase B:
S l o w l y s i f t i n Dermacryl LT, h e a t t o 80C. When complete, s i f t i n Neo He l iopan Hydro and Carbopol 940, mix u n t i l complete.
Phase A : Combine and h e a t t o 80C. Add Phase A t o Phase 0 a t 80C, mix
f o r 15-30 minu tes . Cool t o 40C. S l u r r y Dry-F lo PC i n Propy lene G l y c o l , add t o A and B a t 40C and mix t h o r o u g h l y . Add Phase D . Cool t o room tempera ture and package.
SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co. : Formula 7520-1490
Combine T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% and De ion ized Water, h e a t t o 60C.
388 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
European O/W Sun Protection Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l
Isohexadecane O c t y l Methoxyci n n i mate Cyclometh icone Ar lamol E Behenyl a l c o h o l Tocophe r o 1 A c e t a t e
B A r l a t o n e 2121 G l y c e r o l * P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
C Xanthan gum
D *Perfume
*q. s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s I
10.00 5 .00 5 . 0 0 2 . 8 0 1.20 2.00 5 .50
5 .50 4.00
62.85
0 . 1 0
Procedure:
D isperse ( C ) and (B) a t 75C w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . Add heated ( A ) , ( E ) , and (F) t o m i x t u r e w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . Homogen- i z e m i x t u r e between 75C and 65C and c o o l t o 40C w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . Homogenize a t 30C t o 40C w i t h a d d i t i o n o f (D) .
M e l t A r l a t o n e 2121 and add t o remainder o f (B) a t 8OC.
O/W Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA Benzo~henone-3 M i n e r a l o i l S t e a r y l a l c o h o l B r i j 721 B r i j 72 Dimeth icone
Water Carbomer 940
%w/w 7.00 3 .00 5.00 0.50 2.00 2 .00 0 .50
79.60 0 . 2 0
Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W / W aqueous) 0.20
* P r e s e r v a t i v e and Fragrance
*q .s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure:
72C. and add (B) t o (A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add ( C ) and i n c r e a s e speed o f t h e a g i t a t i o n as needed. Add ( D ) and r e p l a c e water l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n . SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
D isperse Carbomer i n water and heat (B) t o 70C. Heat (A) t o
Sun Care Products 389
Lip Balm with Sunscreen-A
I n g r e d i e n t s : Phase A : Pe t ro la tum C e t y l A l coho l Beeswax Carnauba Wax Para f f i n O z o k e r i t e C e t y l Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 9801) S t e a r y l D imeth icone (Ab i 1 Wax 9800) Capry l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s (Tegosof t CT) Ce tea ry l Octanoate (Tegosof t L i q u i d ) M ine ra l O i l
Phase 8 : O c t y l Methoxycinnamate Benzophenone-3
Phase C : Co lo r Fragrance
Lip Balm with Sunscreen-B
I n a r e d i e n t s : Phase A : Pe t ro la tum C e t y l A1 coho1 Beeswax Carnauba Wax Para f f i n O z o k e r i t e C e t y l Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 9801) S t e a r y l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9800) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s (Tegoso f t CT) Ce tea ry l Octanoate (Tegosoft L i q u i d ) M ine ra l O i l
Phase 8: O c t y l Methoxycinnamate Benzophenone-3
Phase C : Co lo r Fragrance
40 .7 4.0 6 . 0 6 . 4
1 6 . 4 6 . 0 1 . o 1 . o 5 . 0 3 . 0 5 . 0
4 . 0 1 . 5
Q.S. Q.S.
w 44.5
6 . 0 14 .0
2 . 0 8 . 0 3 . 0 0 . 5 0 . 5 8 . 0 3 .0 5 . 0
4 .0 1 . 5
Q.S. Q.S.
Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r u n t i l me l ted . Begin c o o l i n g . 2 . Add Phase B, mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . 3 . Add c o l o r and f ragrance when ba tch i s coo led t o a creamy
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons cons i s tency . 4 . Mold .
390 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Non-Chemical Sunscreen Lotion (approx. SPF 15)
T h i s l o t i o n i n c o r p o r a t e s t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e as t h e sunscreen agent . I t has a smooth f e e l upon a p p l i c a t i o n and r u b s i n e a s i l y w i t h o u t w h i t e n i n g . The Geahlene 750 adds t h i c k n e s s and may c o n t r i b u t e t o water r e s i s t a n c e and p r o d u c t s t a b i l i t y .
I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: A De ion ized Water
Magnesium Aluminum S i l i ca te /Veegum U l t r a Xanthan Gum/Kel t ro l Methy lparaben Tetrasodium EDTA/Hamp-Ene 220
0 M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Buty lene/Ethy lene/ S ty rene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Ethy lene/ Propy lene/Sty rene Copolymer//Geahlene 750
C12-15 A1 k y l Benzoate /F inso lv TN T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e / M i c r o n i z e d T i 0 2 LA-20 Phenoxyethanol/Emeressence 1160 S t e a r i c Acid/Emersol 132 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE/Lexemul T DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amphisol Propy lparaben
C Fragrance
Weiaht% 64.80
0 .80 0 .25 0.20 0.10
10.00 10 .00 6 .00 0 . 7 0 2 .50 2.00 2.50 0 .10 0 .05
Procedure: D i sperse Veegum U1 t r a i n r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i zed water .
M i x w e l l . Add K e l t r o l . M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat t o 80C. Add remai n i ng p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s , Homogeni ze F i n s o l v TN and Mic ron- i z e d T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e u n t i l smooth. Add remain ing p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat t o 80-85C. Mix u n t i l a l l t h e added s o l i d s a r e c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Mix f o r 30 minu tes . u n t i l homogeneous. Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t C . Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 30C.
SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Sun Care Products 391
O/W After Sun Milk
I n q r e d i e n t s : %J& A Ar lamol S7 10.00
Ar lamol HD 8 . 0 0 B A r l a t o n e 2 21 2.00
A lpantha 0 . 5 0 G l y c e r o l 2.50 *Preserva t ve
C Water 76.78 Carbopol EDT 0 .07
D *NaOH (10% s o l u t i o n ) E Perfume 0.15
Procedure:
t h e A r l a t o n e 2121 i n t o t h e heated (C) phase w h i l e s t i r r i n g mod- e r a t e l y . Homogenise t h i s m i x t u r e u n t i l a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n formed. Heat (A) t o 80C and add t o (B+C) w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n - s i v e l y . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e between 75 and 6%. A l l o w t o c o o l down t o 50C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (D) u n t i l pH o f 6 .5 t o 7 i s reached. Add ( E ) a t 40C w h i l e s t i r r i n g .
* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
D isperse Carbopol i n water w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Heat t o 80C. M i x
W/O After Sun Cream
Inr r red i e n t s : A r l a c e l 582 A r l a t o n e T Magnesium s t e a r a t e Beeswax Candel i 11 a wax Ar lamol HD Sunf lower seed o i l a-Tocopherol a c e t a t e T e g i l o x a n 100 Oxynex K l i q u i d A e r o s i l R972 A t l a s G-2330 MgS04.7H20 A lpantha * P r e s e r v a t i v e Water Perfume D i n a l y a 129.051 * q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
m 2.50 0.50 0 .50 1 . 5 0 0.50
15.00 3 .00 1 . o o 0 .50 0 . 0 5 0.30 4 . 0 0 0.50 0 .50
69 I 45 0 .20
Procedure: M i x (A and 6 ) . Mix (C+D). Heat (A+B) and (C+D) s e p a r a t e l y
t o 75C. Add (C+D) t o (A+B) w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Homogen- i s e f o r 1 minu te . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (E ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Homogenise aga in f o r 1 minu te . Package.
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
392 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Phase A: G1 y c e r i ne Glucamate SSE-20
O/W Cream (SPF 5)[UVA/UVB Ratio 0.9]
?$y& 5 .00 1.50
G l u c a t e SS 1 . 5 0 G l y c e r y l Monostearate 5.00 M y r i t o l 318 5 .00 S p e c t r a v e i l TG (60% s o l i d s d i s p e r s i o n ) 10 .00 Phase 0: Veegum Regular 1 . 5 0 Kel zan 0.30 Methy l Paraben 0.15 Demi n e r a l i sed water 69.60 Phase C: Germal l I 1 0.25 Perfume 0 . 2 0 Manufac ture : * Heat b o t h phases t o 65-70C m i x i n g w i t h h i g h shear m i x e r . * Add phase A t o phase B w i t h m i x i n g . * S t i r on t h e h i g h shear mixer a l l o w i n g p r o d u c t t o c o o l . * When below 60C add t h e Germal l 11. When below 40C add t h e
perfume * A t 35C s t o p s t i r r i n g and a l l o w t o c o o l . I n - V i t r o SPF Value: 4-6 I n - V i v o SPF Value: 5 .9
F o r m u l a t i o n Number 22 W/O Sun Protection Cream (SPF 15+)
[UVA/UVB Ratio 0.75]Phase A : DC200/100cs
%Jyfy 2 .00
E l f a c o s C26 5.00 E l f a c o s E200 2.00 E l f a c o s ST9 4.00 Cocoa B u t t e r 3 . 0 0 Propy l Paraben 0.08 Spect rave i 1 SO/MOTG (40% s o l i d s d i s p e r s i on) 25.00 Phase 0: Propy lene G l y c o l 5 .00 Methy l Paraben 0 .10 Demi n e r a l i sed water 53.82 Manufacture: * I n t o a s u i t a b l e vesse l weigh o u t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase A
(except t h e E l f a c o s C26). B r i n g t h e tempera ture o f t h e o i l s s l o w l y t o 75C w i t h o c c a s i o n a l s t i r r i n g . The E l f a c o s C26 c o n s t i t u t e n t i s warmed t o 85C and added s e p a r a t e l y . * Pre-mix t h e Propylene G l y c o l and Methy l Paraben. Add t o t h e water , s t i r r i n g w e l l and heat t o 7%. * When b o t h phases a r e c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d and a t 75-80C, add phase 6 t o phase A w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h a h i g h shear m i x e r . M ix f o r f i v e minu tes and t h e n commence c o o l i n g . * Cool t o approx imate ly 25C w i t h s low speed m i x i n g . * Mix b r i e f l y a t h i g h speed u n t i l smooth.
I n - V i t r o SPF Value: 17-21 I n - V i v o SPF Value: 20.5 F o r m u l a t i o n Number 24 SOURCE: T i o x i d e S p e c i a l t i e s L t d . : SPECTRAVEIL Custom UV
P r o t e c t i o n
Sun Care Products 393
O/W Hydroalcoholic SunscreenI n n r e d i e n t s : ?&v&
C e t y l Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 2 . 0 S t e a r y l A l coho l 2 . 0 M ine ra l O i l 3 . 5 Cyclomethicone ( A b i l 6 8839) 5 . 0 S tearoxy Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 2434) 1 . 5 I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t S ) 5 . 0 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 4 . 0 Benzophenone-3 2 . 0 Phase B: Propy lene G1 y c o l 3 . 0 Carbomer 934 (1 .5% - NaOH N e u t r a l i z e d ) 0 . 3 Water 45 .7 P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S . Phase C : SD A lcoho l 40A 20.0 Fragrance Q . S . Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . Heat t o 80C. 2 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B. Heat t o 80C. 3 . Mix Phases A & 8. Cool t o 60C w h i l e m i x i n g . M a i n t a i n a m i l k y
4 . Cool t o 45C w i t h sweep m ix . 5 . Add Phase C. Rehomogenize. Cool t o 25C w i t h sweep m ix .
I n n r e d i e n t s : %w/w Phase A : C e t y l D i methi cone Copol yo1 (and) Pol y g l y c e r y l - 4
I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 4 .0 C e t y l Dimethicone (Ab i 1 Wax 9801) 2 . 0 Po lye thy lene Wax 1 . o Benzophenone-3 2 . 0 O c t y l Sal i c y 1 a t e 3 .0 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 2 . 0 Sesame O i l 1 . o I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegoso f t P) 3 .0 Cyclomethicone ( A b i l B 8839) 4 . 0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosof t O S ) 3 . 0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegosof t OP) 2 . 5 Phase B : Water 71 . 4 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 5 Polyquaternium-10 0 .3 Germaben I 1 0 . 3 Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C t o
i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a low energy
m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s . 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f rag rance . 4. Homogenize SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Fo rmu la t i ons BAM-1-97
Phase A : G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) Ceteth-20 ( T e g i n a c i d H) 4 .0
appearance a t a l l t i m e s . Homogenize.
W/O Sunscreen (SPF 17)
394 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA
M i n e r a l o i l S t e a r y l a l c o h o l B r i j 721 B r i j 72 D i meth i cone Water
B Carbomer 940
C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W aqueous)
D * P r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e
* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s
w 5.00 5.00 0.50 2 .00 2.00 0 .50
84.60
0.20
0 .20
Procedure: D isperse Carbomer i n water and heat (B) t o 70C. Heat ( A ) t o
72C. and add (B) t o (A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S lowly add (C) and i n c r e a s e speed o f t h e a g i t a t i o n as needed. Add (D) and r e p l a c e water l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n .
W/O Sunscreen Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 186
Sorbo
B Ceres in wax Beeswax M i n e r a l o i l Sunscreen agent
C Water
D * P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
w 3.00
27.00
1 . o o 1 .oo
11 .oo 6.00
51 . O O
Procedure: Add Sorbo t o A r l a c e l 186 s l o w l y w i t h cont inuous a g i t a t i o n .
Add (B ) t o ( A ) and h e a t t o 70C. Add ( C ) and mix t o a u n i f o r m d i s p e r s i o n . Heat (D) t o 72C. and add t o (A,B,C) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool and m i l l t o improve smoothness and s h e l f l i f e .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Formula t ions
Sun Care Products 395
1 . 2. 3. 4 . 5 . 6 . 7 . 8 . 9 . 10.
O/W Sunscreen Lotion
A-C Po lye thy lene 61 7 A-C Copolymer 540 Esca lo l 507 Dow 556 F l u i d Propylene G l y c o l D i p e l a rgonate Hydroxy01 Ethoxyo l 24 A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60 Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
Wt.% 1 . o 1 . o 5 . 0 2 .0
10 .5 2 .0 1 . o 1 .3 1 . 8 0 .1
1 1 . S o r b i t o l 5 . 0 12.Carbopol 941 0 . 5 13.Germal l 115 0 . 4 14.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.2 15. T r i e thano l ami ne 0 . 7 5 16. Water 68.45 Procedure:
D ispe rse Carbopol i n wa te r . Weigh 1-10 and hea t t o 80-9OC w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s t o Carbopo l /water d i s p e r s i o n , except t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , and heat t o 80-9OC. Add t h e wax phase t o t h e aqueous phase and shear i n homomixer. Cont inue shear ing w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C, then add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , m i x i n g w e l l . Cool t o 30C, add perfume, deaera te and package. Ref : 51 89-2-6
1 . 2 . 3 . 4 . 5 . 6. 7 . 8 . 9 .
O/W Sunscreen Lotion
A-C Copolymer 580 D i s t i l l e d I s o p r o p y l Lano la te Esca lo l 507 Dow 556 F l u i d Propy lene G l y c o l D i p e l a rgonate Ethoxyo l 24 A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60 Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
Wt.36 2 . 0 3 . 0 5 . 0 2 . 0
10 .0 1 . o 1 . o 2.0 0 . 1
10. So rb i t o 1 (70%) 5 .0 11 . Carb i t o 1 941 0 . 5 12 .T r ie thano lamine 0 . 7 5 13.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2 14. Water 67.45 Procedure:
s low a g i t a t i o n . Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s t o Carbopo l /water d i s p e r s i o n , except t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , and heat t o 80-9OC. Add t h e water phase t o t h e aqueous phase and shear i n homomixer. Cont inue shear ing w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C, t h e n add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , m i x i n g w e l l . Cool t o 30C, add perfume, de -ae ra te and package. Re f : 51 89-2-9
SOURCE: A l l i e d S igna l Inc. Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
D ispe rse Carbopol i n wa te r . Weigh 1-9 and heat t o 80-9OC w i t h
396 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Sunscreen Lotion
I n Q r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l
A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60 Benzyl s a l i cy1 a t e Benzyl c i nnamate
* P r e s e r v a t i v e *q. s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat (A) t o 60C. Heat (B )
b u t g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Cool t o
B Water
%J@ 24.50
1.50 8 .50 2.00 2.00
61.50
t o 62C. Add (B ) t o (A) w i t h thorough 25C w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g .
O/W Sunscreen Lotion
I n q r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l
C e t y l a1 coho1 A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60 Amyl para-d imethy laminobenzoate
* P r e s e r v a t i v e *q. s . t h e s e i ngred i e n t s .
Heat (A) t o 55C. and (B) t o 60C.
B Water
Procedure:
a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l c o o l .
%&!y 18.80
5 . 0 0 2.50 7 .50 1 .20
65.00
Add (B) t o (A) w i t h a g i t -
O/W Emollient Sunscreen Lotion
I n a r e d i e n t s : A O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA
Ar lamol E S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Dimeth icone A r l aso l ve 200 B r i j 72
Carbomer 934 B Water
C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W aqueous) D * P r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e
*q. s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s . Procedure:
D isperse Carbomer i n water and heat 72C. and add (B ) t o (A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r and i n c r e a s e speed of t h e a g i t a t i o n as r e p l a c e water l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n .
?&!y 5.00 7 .00 2.50 1 .oo 3.10 3 .90
77.10 0.20 0 .20
( 8 ) t o 70C. Heat (A) t o a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add (C) needed. Add ( D ) and
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Formula t ions
Sun Care Products 397
Phase A : A r l a c e l 165 S t e a r y l A l coho l Span 60 Tween 60 Pe t ro la tum DC200/350 Sweet Almond O i 1 M i n e r a l O i l
O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 12)
5.00 0 . 5 0 0 .50 0 . 9 0 3 .00 1 .00 5 .00 8 .00
Eveni ng Pr imrose O i 1 0 .50
Phase B : Dei o n i zed water S o r b i c A c i d G1 y c e r i ne T i o v e i l AQ K e l t r o l
Phase C : Deion i sed water Bronopol
56.76 0 . 2 0 5 .00
12 .50 0 . 1 0
1 . o o 0.04
Manufacture: * Heat t h e d e i o n i s e d wa te r , s o r b i c a c i d and g l y c e r i n e t o 75C,
* S p r i n k l e i n t h e K e l t r o l and homogenise u n t i l t h i s i s f u l l y s t i r r i n g o c c a s i o n a l l y u n t i l a l l t h e s o r b i c a c i d has d i s s o l v e d .
d i s p e r s e d . ( o r : padd le s t i r f o r 1 hour t o h y d r a t e t h e Kel t r o l ) . M a i n t a i n t e m e r a t u r e a t 75C. * Add t h e - T i o v e i l AQ and' homogenise b r i e f l y . * Heat phase A t o 75C. * Add A t o B and homogenise f o r a p p r o p r i a t e t i m e .
* Add phase C a t 40C. Con t inue c o o l i n g w i t h s t i r r
I n - V i t r o SPF Value: 1 2 - 1 5
SOURCE: T i o x i d e S p e c i a l t i e s L t d . : TIOVEIL Phys ica
t o c o o l . Paddle s t i r
ng t o 25C.
Sunscreen
398 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15) Phase 4: w DC 593 f l u i d 7.00 M i n e r a l o i l 6 .00 Crodamol ML 2.00 C e t y l a1 coho1 2 . 0 0 GMS/SE 1.20 Eumulgin 82 0 .40 S t e a r i c a c i d 1 - 0 0 Propylparaben 0 . 0 5 Phase B: Dei o n i sed wa te r 58.45 G1 yce r i ne 1 . o o T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 1 - 0 0 A loe v e r a g e l 1O: l 0 .50 Methy lparaben 0 .15 T i o v e i 1 AQ 18.75 Perfume 0.20 Germal l 115 0 . 3 0 Manufacture: * Heat phases A and B s e p a r a t e l y t o 70-75C. * Add phase A t o phase 0 and homogenize f o r a p p r o p r i a t e t i m e . * Cool down t o 50C w i t h s low s t i r r i n g , t h e n add perfume * Con t inue c o o l i n g w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add Germal l a t 35C. S top
s t i r r i n g a t 30C. I n - V i t r o SPF Value: 17-21 I n - V i v o SPF Value: 17 .6 V i s c o s i t y : 60000 mPas ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, S p i n d l e E, 3 rpm)
Fo rmu la t i on Number 9
O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 10) Phase A : %w/w I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e 4.00 M i n e r a l o i l 6 .50 Grape seed o i l 2 .50 S t e a r y l a l c o h o l 1 . o o Pe t ro la tum 2 .00 T i o v e i l MOTG 5 .00 Phase B: Deion i sed wa te r 62.90 G r i 11 o t e n LSE87K 0 .10 G r i l l o t e n PSE141G 6 . 0 0 G1 y c e r i ne 4 .00 A1 1 a n t o i n 0 .20 d-Panthenol 0 .80 Phase C : T i o v e i l AQ 5 .00 Phase D:
Manufacture: * Heat A and B s e p a r a t e l y t o 80C. * Add A t o 8, s t i r r i n g i n t e n -
* A l l o w t o c o o l f o r 25C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . Add D.
Fo rmu la t i on Number 18 SOURCE: T i o x i d e S p e c i a l t i e s L t d , : T I O V E I L Phys i ca l Sunscreens
P rese rva t i ve qs
s i v e l y . Add C w i t h i n t e n s i v e s t i r r i n g . * Homogenize
I n - V i t r o SPF Value: 12-15 V i s c o s i t y : 144 mPas ( B r o o k f i e l d )
Sun Care Products 399
O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15)
Phase A : O c t y l P a l m i t a t e Crodamol CAP 0c200/100cs Oxynex 2004 Whi te Beeswax Phase B: A r l a t o n e 2121 K e l t r o l RD Veeaum U l t r a
%w/w 5 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 3 .00 0 . 0 5 3 .50
5 . 5 0 0 .20 0 .80
Sodium L a c t a t e (70% s o l n . ) 0 .30 Demi n e r a l i sed water 61 - 6 5 T i o v e i l AQ 15.00 P rese rva t i ves qs Manufacture: * M i x wa te r and sodium l a c t a t e and h e a t t o 80C * M e l t A r l a t o n e 2121 and add t h i s t o t h e h o t wa te r phase w i t h
* D ispe rse K e l t r o l and Veegum i n t h e h o t water phase * Add T i o v e i l AO w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g * Heat phase A t o 75-80C, u n t i l f u l l y m e l t e d and homogeneous. * Heat phase A t o phase B w i t h h igh -shear m i x i n g . * Cool w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g t o 3OC.Homogenize b r i e f l y when c o l d
Formul a t i on Number 19
v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g
I n - V i t r o SPF Value: 15-19 V i s c o s i t y : 49680 mPas
W/O Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 20)
Phase A : %VJ& A b i l EM90 2.00 M i n e r a l o i l 5 . 0 0 Ar lamol HD 5 . 0 0 C a p r y l i c - c a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e 5 . 0 0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e 8 .00 Ar lamol 53 5 . 0 0 Naturechem GMHS 0 .80 Lunacera M 1 . 2 0 Phase B: Demi n e r a l i sed wa te r 47.50 Sodi um C h l o r i d e 0 . 5 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e qs Phase C : T i o v e i l MOTG 20.00 Manufacture: * Heat phases A and B s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C * Heat phase C t o >60C * S l o w l y add B t o A w i t h i n t e n s i v e s t i r r i n g * Add C w i t h i n t e n -
s i v e s t i r r i n g * Cool t o 25-30'2, m a i n t a i n i n g t h e same s t i r r e r speed * Homogenize
F o r m u l a t i o n Number 20
SOURCE: T i o x i d e S p e c i a l t i e s L t d . : TIOVEIL P h y s i c a l Sunscreens
I n - V i t r o SPF Value: 20-24 V i s c o s i t y : 2000 mPas ( B r o o k f i e l d )
400 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Vitaminized Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Lotion(Indicative SPF 8)*
I n a r e d i e n t s : A) Pa rso l MCX
Parso l 1789 P a r s o l 5000 G l y c e r y l Monomyri s t a t e Ganex V-220 C e t y l A l coho l E x t r a Dermol 185 Amphisol K Edeta BD B u t y l a t e d Hydroxy to luene Phenoni p
Carbopol 981 1% s o l ' n Propy lene G l y c o l
C) KOH 10% sol ' n D ) De ion i zed Water
Pa rso l HS KOH 10% s o l ' n
E ) V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e F ) Panthenol G) P a r f e x 49915
B) De ion ized Water
% w / w 2.00 1 . o o 0 . 6 0 4.00 2 . 0 0 1 .00
1 0 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 0 .10 0 .05 0 . 6 0
34.93 1 0 . 0 0
5 .00 0 . 6 4
20.00 0 . 6 0 1 .08 2 .00 2.00 0 .40* *
Procedure: Heat p a r t A) t o 85C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . When homogeneous, add
p a r t s B ) and C) p re -hea ted t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g . Add p a r t D) pre-heated t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g (be s u r e t h a t t h e Parso l HS has been c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , i f t r a c e s remain, add a sma l l q u a n t i t y o f n e u t r a l i z i n g base u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r ) . Cool t o 40C, add p a r t s E ) , F ) and G) . Compensate f o r wa te r l o s s and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o ambient t empera tu re .
Remark: *SPF d e t e r m i n a t i o n : I R I Ref . 582627. Tes t method based on
FDA/OTC c o n d i t i o n s w i t h s i x s u b j e c t s .
The f i n a l pH v a l u e shou ld be around 7 . 0 t o p r e v e n t r e c r y - s t a l l i z a t i o n o f Pa rso l HS
* * D e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d perfume f o r sunscreens.
SOURCE: Givaudan-Roure: Fo rmu la t i on 38 COS 085
Sun Care Products 401
O/W Vitaminized Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Lotion (Indicative SPF 25+)*
I n a r e d i e n t s : A) Pa rso l MCX
Parsol 1789 Parso l 5000 G l y c e r y l Monomyri s t a t e Ganex V-220 C e t y l A l coho l E x t r a Dermol 185 Amphisol K Edeta BD B u t y l a t e d Hydroxy to luene Phenoni p
Carbopol 981 1% s o l ' n P ropy lene G1 y c o l
B ) De ion i zed Water
C) KOH 10% s o l ' n D) De ion ized Water
Pa rso l HS KOH 10% sol I n
E ) V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e F) Panthenol G) P e r f e x 49915
Procedure: Heat D a r t A ) t o 85C w h i l e s t i r r i n a When homoneneous,
5 .50 2 .50 2 .00 4.00 2 .00 1 . o o
10.00 2.00 0 . 1 0 0 . 0 5 0 .60
24.61 10 .00
5 . 0 0 0.64
20.00 2 . 0 0 3 .60 2 . 0 0 2.00 0.40**
add p a r t s B) and C) pre-heated t o 756, w h i l e m i x i n g . Add p a r t D ) p re -hea ted t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g (be su re t h a t t h e Parso l HS has been c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , i f t r a c e s remain, add a sma l l q u a n t i t y o f t h e n e u t r a l i z i n g base u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r ) . Cool t o 40C, add P a r t s E ) , F ) , and G). Compensate f o r water l o s s and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o ambient t empera tu re .
Remark : *SPF d e t e r m i n a t i o n : I R I Re f . 582627. Tes t method based on
FDA/OTC c o n d i t i o n s w i t h f i v e s u b j e c t s . * * D e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d perfume f o r sunscreens.
The f i n a l pH v a l u e shou ld be around 7 . 0 t o p r e v e n t r e c r y s - t a l l i z a t i o n o f Pa rso l HS.
SOURCE: Givaudan-Roure: Formula 38 COS 087
402 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Vitaminized Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Lotion (Indicative SPF 15)*
I n g r e d i e n t s : A ) Pa rso l MCX
Parso l 1789 Parso l 5000 G l y c e r y l Monomyr is ta te Ganex V-220 C e t y l A l coho l E x t r a Dermol 185 Amphisol K Edeta BD B u t y l a t e d Hydroxy to luene Phenoni p Dei o n i zed Water Carbopol 981 1% so l ' n Propy lene G1 y c o l KOH 10% s o l ' n Dei o n i zed Water Pa rso l HS KOH 10% sol'n V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e Panthenol P a r f e x 49915
3.30 1 . 5 0 1 .20 4 . 0 0 2.00 1 . o o
10.00 2.00 0 . 1 0 0 . 0 5 0 . 6 0
30.86 1 0 . 0 0
5 . 0 0 0 . 6 4
20.00 1 . 2 0 2.15 2 .00 2.00 0.40**
Procedure: Heat p a r t A ) t o 85C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . When homogeneous, add
p a r t s B) and C ) pre-heated t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g . Add p a r t D) pre-heated t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g (be s u r e t h a t t h e Parso l HS has been c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , i f t r a c e s remain, add a sma l l q u a n t i t y o f t h e n e u t r a l i z i n g base u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r ) . Cool t o 40C, add p a r t s E) , F ) and G) . Compensate for water loss and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o ambient t empera tu re .
Remark: *SPF d e t e r m i n a t i o n : I R I Ref . 582627. Tes t method based on
FDA/OTC c o n d i t i o n s w i t h s i x s u b j e c t s .
The f i n a l pH v a l u e shou ld be around 7.0 t o p r e v e n t r e c r y s t a l l i z a t i o n o f P a r s o l HS.
* * D e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d perfume f o r sunscreens.
SOURCE: Givaudan-Roure: F o r m u l a t i o n 38 COS 086
Sun Care Products 403
Solar Tanning Cream
Water Phase: Water Carbomer 934
O i l Phase: Pro tox T-25 Rosswax 573 GMS SE Coconut O i l #76 Jo joba Oi 1 Rosswax 1824 E s c a l o l 507 Fragrance Germaben I 1 T r i e thano l ami ne
P a r t 0v Weisht S o f t
427.9 3.0
1 . o 4 .0 4 .0
16.0 4.0
12.0 25.0
q . S . 5 . 0 4 . 4
Procedure: D isperse t h e Carbomer 934 i n t h e w a t e r . I n a second vesse l
heat t h e O i l Phase i n c l u d i n g t h e E s c a l o l 507 u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y c l e a r . When b o t h phases a r e ready add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Water Phase, add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e , f r a g r a n c e and add t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e under h i g h a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y mixed you may package.
Solar Tanning Cream
Water Phase: Water Carbomer 934
O i l Phase: Pro tox T-25 Rosswax 573 GMS SE Coconut O i l #76 Jo joba O i l Rosswax 1824 E s c a l o l 507 Fragrance Germaben I 1 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
P a r t s b y Weiaht Hard
410.0 3.0
1 . o 4.0 4 . 0
16.0 4.0
12 .0 25.0
q . s . 4.8 4 . 4
Procedure: D isperse t h e Carbomer 934 i n t h e w a t e r . I n a second vesse l
heat t h e O i l Phase i n c l u d i n g t h e E s c a l o l 507 u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y c l e a r . When b o t h phases a r e ready add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Water Phase, add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e , Fragrance and add t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e under h i g h a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y mixed you may package. SOURCE: Frank 0. Ross Co,, Inc. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
404 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Solar Tanning CreamHigh Protection
P a r t ( A ) : Water Carbomer 934
P a r t ( B ) : P r o t o x T 25 Rosswax 573 Rosswax 1824 Ross Jo joba O i 1
Coconut O i l #76 E s c a l o l 507 E s c a l o l 567
P a r t ( C ) : Germaben I1
P a r t (0): Fragrance
P a r t ( E ) : T r i e thano l ami ne
GMS-SE
!?i 79.9
0 . 6
0 .2 0 . 8 2 .0 0 . 8 0 . 8 3 .0 7 .0 3 .0
1 . o
4 , s .
0 . 9
Procedure:
omer 934 under a g i t a t i o n . Heat P a r t (B ) i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e u n t 1 c l e a r under a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y mixed add P a r t ( 8 ) t o Par ( A ) under a g i t a t i o n . Then add P a r t ( C ) and mix t h o r o u g h l y Next add P a r t ( D ) and f i n a l l y add P a r t (E) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 120F and package.
Heat t h e water i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e and add t h e Carb-
Tanning Jelly
P e t r o l a t u m USP M i n e r a l O i l #7 Henkel C u t i na-LM Ross Jo joba O i 1 E s c a l o l 507 Propy l Paraben Fragrance
3 49.0 20.0 23.9
2 .0 5.0 0 . 1 q . s .
Procedure: Load i n g r e d i e n t s i n steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e and m e l t t o a
l i q u i d s t a t e under a g i t a t i o n . When t h o r o u g h l y mixed, coo l t o 130F, f r a g r a n c e and package.
SOURCE: Frank 8 . R o s s Co., I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products 405
Solar Tanning CreamSuper Protection
P a r t ( A ) : Water Carbomer 934 P a r t (B) : Pro tox T 25 Rosswax 573 Rosswax 1824 Ross Jo joba O i 1
Coconut O i l #76 E s c a l o l 507 E s c a l o l 567 E s c a l o l 557 P a r t (C): Germaben I 1 P a r t ( D ) : Fragrance P a r t (E): T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
GMS-SE
% 69 .1
0 . 6
0 .2 0 . 8 2 .0 1 . o 0 . 8 3 . 2 8 . 0 4 .5 7 . 5
1 .o
q . s .
0.9
Procedure:
Carbomer 934 under a g i t a t i o n . Heat P a r t (B ) i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e u n t i l c l e a r under a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y mixed add P a r t (B ) t o P a r t (A) under a g i t a t i o n . Then add P a r t ( C ) and mix t h o r o u g h l y . Next add P a r t (D) and f i n a l l y add P a r t (E) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 120F and package.
Heat t h e waxes i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e and add t h e
Jojoba After Sun Lotion
P a r t A : M i n e r a l O i l 60/70 Modul an Rosswax 63-0412 Propy l ene G1 y c o l Ross Jo joba O i 1 P a r t 8 : Water A l o e Vera L i q u i d T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e Fragrance Germaben I 1
36 8 . 5 5 .0 7 .6 2 . 3 1 .7
69 .7 3.3 1 .2 q . s . 1 . o
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . When tempera ture i s reached, mix P a r t ( A ) t o P a r t (B ) and c o o l . Package i n c o n t a i n e r s a t below 120F.
SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
M e l t P a r t ( A ) and P a r t ( B ) i n separa te v e s s e l s t o 170F under
406 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Solar Tanning Lotion-A
P a r t I: Water Carbomer 934
P a r t 11: Rosswax 573 GMS SE Jo joba O i l E s c a l o l 507
P a r t 111: Fragrance
P a r t IV: Gerrnaben I 1
P a r t V: T r i e thano l ami ne
Solar Tanning Lotion-B
P a r t I: Water Carborner 934
P a r t 11: Rosswax 573 GMS SE Jo joba O i l E s c a l o l 507
P a r t 111: Fragrance
P a r t IV: Germaben I 1
P a r t V: T r i e thano l ami ne
P a r t s bv Wei q h t 568.0
2 . 0
4 .0 4 . 0 4 . 0
13.0
4 . s .
6 . 0
4.0
P a r t s by Wei q h t 568.0
2 . 0
4 . 0 4 . 0 4 . 0
1 9 . 0
q . s .
6 . 0
4.0
Procedure:
separa te steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t P a r t I 1 u n t i l c l e a r . As soon as e v e r y t h i n g i s m e l t e d add P a r t I 1 t o P a r t I w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Then add P a r t I11 and P a r t IV w i t h i n c r e a s e d a g i t a t i o n ; t h e n add T r i t h a n o l ami ne. Cool t o 130F and package.
SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : SUQQeSted Formula t ions
Heat t h e water w i t h a g i t a t i o n and add t h e Carborner 934. I n a
Sun Care Products 407
P a r t I Water Carbomer 934
P a r t 1 1 : Rosswax 573 GMS SE Jo joba O i l E s c a l o l 507
P a r t 111 : Fragrance
P a r t IV: Germaben I 1
P a r t V: T r i e thano l ami ne
P a r t I: Water Carbomer 934
P a r t 11: Rosswax 573 GMS SE Jo joba O i l E s c a l o l 507
P a r t 111: Fragrance
P a r t IV: Germaben I 1
P a r t V: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
Solar Tanning Lotion-C
P a r t s by Wei a h t 568.0
2.0
4 . 0 4.0 4 . 0
25 .0
q . s .
6.0
4.0
Solar Tanning Lotion-D
568.0 2.0
4.0 4 .0 4 . 0
32.0
q . s .
6.0
4 . 0
Procedure:
separa te steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t P a r t I 1 u n t i l c l e a r . A s soon as e v e r y t h i n g i s me l ted add P a r t I 1 t o P a r t I w i t h a g i t - a t i o n . Then add P a r t I 1 1 and P a r t IV w i t h i n c r e a s e d a g i t a t i o n ; t h e n add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . Cool t o 130F and package.
SOURCE: Frank 8 . R o s s C o . , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Heat the water w i t h a g i t a t i o n and add t h e Carbomer 934. I n a
408 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Solar Tanning LotionHigh Protection
Water Carbomer 934 Rosswax 573 Gms SE Jo joba O i l E s c a l o l 507
P a r t s by Wei q h t 517.0
2 . 0 3 . 6 3 . 6
42 .0 1 8 . 0
Germaben I 1 6 . 0
Fragrance q . s .
T r i e thano l ami ne 3 . 6
Procedure:
separa te steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t t h e O i l Phase t i l l c l e a r w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Now add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Water Phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n , add t h e Germaben 1 1 , f r a g r a n c e and f i n a l l y add t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e w i t h h i g h a g i t a t i o n . Next c o o l t o 130F and package .
Heat t h e water w i t h a g i t a t i o n and add t h e Carbomer 934. I n a
Solar Tanning LotionSuper Protection
Water Carbomer 934 Rosswax 2540
Whi te Jo joba O i 1 E s c a l o l 507 E s c a l o l 567 E s c a l o l 557 Germaben I 1 Fragrance T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
GMS-SE
P a r t s by Weight 381.5
1 . 5 3 . 0 3 . 0 3 . 0
40 .0 22.5 3 7 . 5
5 . 0 q . s 3 . 6
Procedure: Heat t h e water i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e w i t h a g i t a t i o n and
add t h e Carbomer 934. I n a separa te steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t t h e O i l Phase u n t i l c l e a r w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Now add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Water Phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n , t h e n t h e Germaben 1 1 , t h e n t h e Fragrance and f i n a l l y add t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e w i t h h i g h a g i t - a t i o n . Next c o o l t o 130F and package.
SOURCE: Frank 8 , Ross C o . , I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions
Sun Care Products 409
Cocoanut O i l #76 Dow Corn ing #344 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e M i n e r a l O i l #7 A c e t u l an Glucam P-20 Jo joba O i l E s c a l o l 507 Fragrance
Cocoanut O i l #76 Dow Corn ing #344 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e M i n e r a l O i l #7 Acetu lan Glucam P-20 Jo joba O i l E s c a l o l 507 Fragrance
Cocoanut O i l #76 Dow Corn ing #344 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e M i n e r a l O i l #7 A c e t u l an Glucam P-20 Jo joba O i l E s c a l o l 507 Fragrance
Cocoanut O i l #76 Dow Corn ing #344 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e M i n e r a l O i l #7 Acetu lan Glucam P-20 Jo joba O i l E s c a l o l 507 Fragrance
Solar Tanning Oil-A
Solar Tanning Oil-B
Solar Tanning Oil-C
Solar Tanning Oil-D
% 15.0 16.0 1 3 . 0 42 .0
8 .0 2 .0 2.0 2 . 0 Q . S .
% 14.0 16.0 13.0 42.0
8 .0 2.0 2 . 0 3.0 9 . s .
% 13.0 16.0 13.0 42.0
8 .0 2.0 2 . 0 4 . 0 q . s
% 12.0 16.0 13.0 42.0
8 .0 2 .0 2 . 0 5 . 0 Q . S .
Procedure:
r u n t h r u a f i l t e r and package.
SOURCE: Frank B. R o s s C o . , I n c . : Sugoested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Mix a l l o f t h e above i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l ,
410 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Solar Tanning StickWhite Color
Rosswax 26-1 152 Rosswax 1641 Rosswax 1824 M i n e r a l O i l #7 Dow S i l i c o n e 344 I s o p r o p y l Myr i s t a t e Coconut O i l #76 A c e t u l an Glucam P-20 Jo joba O i l E s c a l o l 507
Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e
% 15.0 15.0 20.0 17.5 8.0 6.5 5.0 4.0 2.0 2.0 5.0
q . s . q . s .
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n u n t i l me l ted . Cool t o j u s t b e f o r e c loudy , add p r e s e r v a t i v e s . Mold i n c o n t a i n e r s . (Note: Capping may be necessary ) .
Load t h e waxes and t h e o i l s i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e , under
Solar Tanning StickTan Color
Rosswax 26-1152 Rosswax 1824 M i n e r a l O i l #7 Dow S i l i c o n e 344 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e Coconut O i l #76 Acetu 1 an Glucam P-20 Jo joba O i l E s c a l o l 507
Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e
% 30.0 20.0 17.5 8.0 6.5 5.0 4.0 2.0 2.0 5.0
q . s . q . s .
Procedure: Heat t h e waxes and t h e o i l i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e t o
175F under a g i t a t i o n . When mixed f u l l y , c o o l t o j u s t b e f o r e c loudy , and add Fragrance and P r e s e r v a t i v e . Mold i n c o n t a i n e r s . (Note: Capping may be necessary ) .
SOURCE: Frank B. Ross Co., Inc.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products 411
Sun Block Soft Cream (O/W) Tested SPF 26
I n q r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 165
Eumulgin B 2 L a n e t t e 0 M y r i t o l 318 C e t i o l OE A b i l 100 Ben Neo Neo Neo Neo c u t
B Dem Vee
one Gel M I 0 Hel iopan, Type OS He l iopan, Type AV He l iopan, Type E 1000 He l iopan, Type MBC na CBS
n e r a l i zed water
% ( w / w ) 3 .00 1 . o o 2 . 0 0 4 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 1 . o o 3.00 3.00 5 .00 5.00 1 . 5 0 2 . 0 0
31 .70 um u l t r a 1 . o o
G l y c e r i n 86% 3.00 Phenoni p 0.50 Neo He l iopan, Type Hydro; used as a 15% s o l u t i o n 20 .00
Z i n c Oxide n e u t r a l H&R 10.00 n e u t r a l i zed w i t h s o d i um h y d r o x i de ( a c t i v e : 3.00%)
C Perfume o i l n .30
M a n u f a c t u r i n g Process: P a r t A: Heat up t o 75C w i t h thorough a g i t a t i o n . P a r t B:
Heat t h e water t o 9OC. D isperse t h e Veegurn i n t h e water d u r i n g h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . Then add t h e o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s and d i s p e r s e t h e Z i n c Oxide n e u t r a l H&R i n t h e s o l u t i o n . Put P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . P a r t C :
emu1 s i on. A t 30C add t h e perfume o i l t o P a r t A / B and homogenize t h e
The pH-value o f t h e f i n i s h e d emuls ion shou ld be approx. 7 .5 and has t o be checked.
SOURCE: Haarman 81 Reimer: FormulatSon K 18/2-21302/E
412 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sun Filter Foam
A . M i g l y o l 840 M i g l y o l 812 S o f t i s a n 649 S o f t i g e n 767 S o f t i g e n 701 C e t y l a1 coho1 S t e a r i c a c i d T r ie thano lamine Neo He l iopan E 1000
9. Perfume Water
1 0 . 0 5 . 0 1 . o 1 . 5 0 . 5 1 . o 4 .0 2 . 0 3 .0
qs t o 100.0
P r e p a r a t i o n :
e m u l s i f i e d i n and perfume i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t 30C. A l l components under A . a r e heated t o 70-75C. Water i s t hen
Aeroso l f i 11 i ng: 90% A c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t 10% D r i v o s o l 27
After Sun Stick
A .
B .
S o f t i g e n 767 Sodi um s t e a r a t e G l y c e r o l Sugar D-Panthenol, 50% A1 1 a n t o i n Water
Perfume Ethano l 96% P r e s e r v a t i v e
40 .0 8 . 0
1 0 . 0 8 . 0 6 . 0 0 .2
24 .4
0 .1 3 .3
u s
P r e p a r a t i o n :
60C, t h e mix i s s t i r r e d , 8 . b e i n g added a t approx. 40C, and when c o l d i t i s c a s t i n t o moulds.
SOURCE: Hu ls A m e r i c a I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons for Cosmet ics : Formulas
The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e me l ted and d i s s o l v e d a t approx.
Sun Care Products 413
Sun Protection Lotion
T h i s medium v i s c o s i t y l o t i o n u t i l i z e s a s y n e r g i s t i c Veegum/ Rhodigel b l e n d t o h e l p s t a b i l i z e t h e emuls ion and mod i fy t h e v i s c o s i t y . I n a d d i t i o n , t h i s f o r m u l a i n c o r p o r a t e s A-C 617G p o l y e t h y l e n e t o p r o v i d e a l u x u r i o u s a f t e r f e e l and improve t h e water r e s i s t a n c e o f t h e sun p r o t e c t i o n f i l m . T h i s p r o d u c t i s des igned t o have an SPF (Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r ) o f about 15.
I n n r e d i e n t : Veegum Rhodi g e l G l y c e r i n De ion ized Water
A-C 61 7G P o l y e t h y l e n e G l y c e r y l Monostearate, SE ( 2 ) D i o c t y l Ma la te ( 3 ) C e t y l A lcoho l M i n e r a l O i l S teare th-2 ( 4 ) S teare th-20 ( 5 ) Benzophenone-3 ( 6 ) O c t y l Dimethy l PABA ( 7 )
P r e s e r v a t i v e , Fragrance
( 2 ) Kessco G l y c e r o l Monostearate S.E. ( 3 ) Ceraphyl 45 ( 4 ) B r i j 72 ( 5 ) B r i j 78 ( 6 ) E s c a l o l 567 ( 7 ) E s c a l o l 507
% bv W t . 1 . o o 0.20 5 .50
68 .80
2.00 3 .OQ 2 . 0 0 0.50 4 .00 0 . 3 0 2.70 3.00 7 . 0 0
q . s .
P r e p a r a t i o n : Dry b l e n d Veegum and Rhod ige l . Add Veegum/Rhodigel b l e n d t o
water p reheated t o 85-9OC. Hydra te u s i n g maximum a v a i l a b l e shear u n t i l smooth, u n i f o r m and f r e e o f und ispersed p a r t i c l e s . Add g l y c e r i n and m a i n t a i n tempera ture a t 85-9OC. I n a separa te con- t a i n e r , add a l l B i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 85-9OC u n t i l a l l com- ponents a r e i n a l i q u i d s t a t e . S t i r g e n t l y as necessary. S l o w l y add B t o A and homogenize f o r 5 minu tes . Cool emuls ion q u i c k l y t o room tempera ture w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Add C and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m .
Consis tency:
tempera ture : 1500-1900 cps.
Suggested Packaging: P l a s t i c b o t t l e s o r t u b e s . Comments :
T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s des igned t o serve as a gu ide f o r t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.
SOURCE: R.T, V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Formula No. 444
F lowab le L i q u i d ; V i s c o s i t y measured a f t e r 30 days a t room
414 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sun Protection Lotion
T h i s medium v i s c o s i t y l o t i o n u t i l i z e s a s y n e r g i s t i c Veegum/ Rhodigel b l e n d t o h e l p s t a b i l i z e t h e emuls ion and mod i fy t h e v i s c o s i t y . It i s des igned t o have an SPF (Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r ) o f about 15.
I n q r e d i e n t : Veegum Rhodi g e l G l y c e r i n De ion ized Water
G l y c e r y l Monostearate, SE ( 2 ) D i o c t y l Ma la te ( 3 ) C e t y l A lcoho l M i n e r a l O i l S t e a r e t h - 2 ( 4 ) S teare th-20 ( 5 ) Benzophenone-3 (6 ) O c t y l Dimethy l PABA ( 7 )
P r e s e r v a t i v e , Fragrance
( 2 ) Kessco G l y c e r o l Monostearate S . E . ( 3 ) Ceraphyl 45 ( 4 ) B r i j 72 ( 5 ) B r i j 78 ( 6 ) E s c a l o l 567 ( 7 ) E s c a l o l 507
% bv W t . 1 .oo 0 .20 5.50
70.80
3 .00 2.00 0.50 4.00 0.30 2.70 3.00 7 .00
Q . S .
P r e p a r a t i o n : Dry b l e n d Veegum and Rhod ige l . Add Veegum/Rhodigel b l e n d t o
water p reheated t o 75 t o 85C. Hydra te u s i n g maximum a v a i l a b l e shear u n t i l smooth, u n i f o r m and f r e e o f und ispersed p a r t i c l e s . Add g l y c e r i n and m a i n t a i n tempera ture a t 75 t o 85C. I n a sep- a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , add a l l B i n g r e d i e n t s and heat t o 75 t o 85C u n t i l a l l components a r e i n a l i q u i d s t a t e . S t i r g e n t l y as necessary. S l o w l y add B t o A and homogenize f o r 5 minu tes . Cool emuls ion t o room tempera ture w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Add C and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m .
Cons is tency : F lowable 1 i q u i d ; V i s c o s i t y measured a f t e r 30 days a t room tempera ture : 750 t o 1000 cps
Comments: T h i s p r o t o t y p e fo rmula i s des igned t o serve as a gu ide f o r
t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.
SOURCE: R U T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Formula No. 446
Sun Care Products 41 5
Sunscreen with Amihope An e l e g a n t sunscreen o f about SPF-15 u s i ng m i c r o n i zed T i t a n i urn
D i o x i d e . A m i hope LL p r o v i d e s i mproved spreadabi 1 i t y and an exce l 1 e n t a f t e r f e e l , I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: % by Weight P a r t A : De ion ized Water 64 .30
S y n t h e t i c H e c t o r i t e 0 .80 D i sod i um EDTA 0.10 G1 yce r i n 6 . 0 0
P a r t B: C12-15 A l k y l Benzoate 15.00 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 6 .50 C e t e a r y l A l coho l (and) Ceteare th-20 5 . 0 0 PEG-80 S o r b i t a n Laura te 1 . o o
P a r t C : Lau roy l Lysine/Amihope LL 1 .oo
B u t y l paraben 0.10 P a r t D: I sop ropy lpa raben (and) I s o b u t y l p a r a b e n (and)
DMDM Hydanto in (and) Iodopropyny l Buty lcarbamate 0 .20
8OC. Add rema in ing p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . Mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r , homogeni ze t h e C12-15 A1 k y l Benzoate and T i t a n i um D i o x i d e u n t i 1 smooth. Add remai n i ng p a r t B i ngred i e n t s . Heat t o 8OC. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . M ix a t 80C f o r 30 minu tes u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Cool t o 70C. Add p a r t D . M ix w e l l . (Homogenize t o ensure comple te d i s p e r s i o n . ) Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t E . Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 35C.
D ispe rse t h e S y n t h e t i c H e c t o r i t e i n d e i o n i z e d wa te r . Heat t o
Appearance: O f f - w h i t e , smooth, v i s c o u s cream pH: 7 .20-7 .80 V i s c o s i t y : 30,000-36,000 cps ( B r o o k f i e l d #6 @ l O r p m @ 25C)
W/O SPF20 Sunscreen with ElderI n a r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: % by Weight P a r t A : S t e a r i c A c i d T r i p l e Pressed 4.00 C e t y l A1 coho1 1 .oo DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amphisol 2 .00 Dimethicone(and)Trimethylsiloxysilicate/Dow Corn ing 593 5 .00 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Parsol MCX 7.50 Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 6 . 0 0 O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e / U v i n u l 0-18 5 .00 Oc ty ldodecy l Neopentanoate/Elefac 1-205 5 . 0 0 Methylparaben (and) Bu ty lpa raben (and) E thy lparaben
D i ( c h o l e s t e r y l , beheny l , o c t y l d o d e c y l ) N-Lauroyl-L- G lu tamic A c i d es ter /E ldew CL-301 5 .00
P a r t B: De ion ized Water 57.75 Sodium Carbomer/PNC 400 0.25 P a r t C : D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germall I 1 0.30 De ion ized Water 1 . o o
Combine p a r t A and hea t t o 75 degrees Cen t ig rade w i t h m i x i n g . Heat d e i o n i z e d water o f p a r t B t o 75 degrees C. D isperse PNC 400 i n t o t h e water w i t h h i g h shear m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m ge l i s formed. Add p a r t A t o p a r t 0 w i t h m i x i n g . Ho ld a t 75 degrees f o r 15 minu tes . Cool t o 40 degrees C and add premixed p a r t C w i t h c o n t i n u e d m i x i n g . Cool t o 30 degrees C . SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, Inc.: Suggested Formulations
(and) Propy lparaben/N ipas ta t 0 . 2 0
416 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Balm, (Cold Processing) SPF 8 (DIN 67501)*
I n q r e d i e n t s : Demi n e r a l i zed water
%(w/w) 72,900
E t h y l a l c o h o l (96 v o l . % ) denatured 8; 500 T r i l o n B l i q u i d D-Panthenol Germal l 115 Phenoni p Carbopol 940
Sodium hyd rox ide (10% aq
1 ,2-Propy lene g l y c o l Cremogen A loe Vera
Neo He l i opan , Type AV Bays i l one F l u i d PK 20 B i s a b o l o l Perfume O i l
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r :
s o l u t i on)
0,100 0,500 0,200 0 ,300 0,500
2,200
3,000 2,000
6,500 3 ,000 0,100 0 ,200
Tes ted mean SPF 8 . 2 acco rd ing t o t h e German D I N 67501 method.
Manu fac tu r ing Process: P a r t A :
a l c o h o l and wa te r . Then s l o w l y add under s t i r r i n g Carbopol 940 and c o n t i n u e u n t i l comp le te l y d i spe rsed .
P a r t B:
r a l i z a t i o n . A t r a n s p a r e n t h i g h v i s c i d g e l w i l l be formed.
P a r t C :
gen A loe Vera i n t o t h e g e l p a r t A/B.
P a r t D :
i n t o t h e g e l p a r t A / B / C .
D i s s o l v e T r i l o n B, Panthenol and Germal l 115 i n t h e m i x t u r e o f
Add s l o w l y t h e sodium hyd rox ide s o l u t i o n t o p a r t A f o r neu t -
Success i ve l y add w i t h s t i r r i n g p ropy lene g l y c o l and Cremo-
B lend t h e i n g r e d i e n t s and add t h e m i x t u r e w i t h s t i r r i n g
A f t e r complete m i x i n g i t i s necessary t o pass t h e d i s p e r s i o n th rough a homogenizer ( c o l l l o i d m i l l ) .
The Sunscreen Balm c o n t a i n s no emu1 s i f i e r .
SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: Fo rmu la t i on K 18/5-51132 A / €
Sun Care Products 41 7
Sunscreen Cream
I l l u s t r a t e s t h e use o f Veegum Pro as a suspending agent and v i s c o s i t y m o d i f i e r . Veegum Pro e f f e c t i v e l y t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l - i z e s t h e emuls ion even a t e l e v a t e d tempera tu res . T h i s l o t i o n has an es t ima ted SPF o f 12 and has a l i g h t f e e l w i t h q u i c k , grease- l e s s r u b - i n . Benzophenone-3 i s a UV-A absorber f o r p r o t e c t i o n a g a i n s t t a n n i ng r a d i a t i o n . O c t y l Methoxyci nnamate i s a UV-B absorber f o r p r o t e c t i o n agai n s t b u r n i ng r a d i a t i on.
I n q r e d i e n t : A Veegum Pro
Water Propy lene g l y c o l T r ie thano lamine
B Benzophenone-3 ( 1 ) C12-15 A l c o h o l s Benzoate ( 2 ) O c t y l Methoxycinnamate ( 3 ) M i n e r a l O i l (and) L a n o l i n A l coho l ( 4 ) S t e a r i c a c i d XXX C18-36 A c i d ( 5 ) G l y c o l S t e a r a t e SE ( 6 ) C e t y l a l c o h o l
I bv W t . 1 . 5
67.7 3 . 0 0 . 6
5 . 0 7 . 5 7 .5 4 . 0 2 . 0 0 . 2 0 . 5 0 . 5
C P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, Fragrance q . s .
( 1 ) U v i n u l M-40 ( 2 ) F i n s o l v TN ( 3 ) Pa rso l MCX ( 4 ) R i t a c h o l ( 5 ) Synchrowax AW1 -C ( 6 ) Cerasynt MN
Procedure: Heat t h e water t o 75 t o 8OC, then s l o w l y add t h e Veegum Pro
w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e shear . M ix u n t i l smooth. Add rernai n i ng i ngred i e n t s i n o rde r shown w i t h c a r e f u l m i x i ng u n t i 1 smooth, m a i n t a i n a t 75 t o 8OC. Heat B t o 75 t o 8OC. Add 0 t o A and mix u n t i l c o o l . Add C .
Cons is tency : Cream
Suggested Packaging: Pump b o t t l e o r t u b e
Comments :
development o f new p roduc ts o r improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Fo rmu la t i on No. 421
T h i s p r o t o t y p e fo rmu la i s designed t o se rve as a gu ide f o r t h e
41 8 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Cream
1 . 2 . 3. 4 . 5 . 6 . 7 . 8. 9 .
A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 61 7 Beeswax Amerchol L-101 M i n e r a l O i l , 70 S . S . Dow F l u i d 200, 350 c s . 2 -E thy l Hexyl S t e a r a t e T r i g l y c e r o l D i i s o s t e a r a t e E s c a l o l 507 P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e
10. So rb i t o 1 (70%) 11.Sodium Bora te , Anhydrous 12 .Methy l -P-Hydroxybenzoate 13.Germal l 115 14.Water
W L % 3 . 0 2.0 5 . 0 6.2 1 . o 7 . 0 5 . 5 5 . 0 0 .1
5 . 0 0 . 3 0.2 0 . 3
59.4
Procedure:
a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g tempera tu re i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 10-14 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.
P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 67C t h e c rude d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion forms. Con t inue s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make su re t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de-aerate and package. Re f : 51 89-4-1
Weigh 1-9 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has
W/O Sunscreen Cream
1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 2 . Beeswax 3 . Amerchol L-101 4 . I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e 5 . Dow 200 F l u i d , 350 c s . 6 . 2 -E thy l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i i s o s t e a r a t e 8 . E s c a l o l 507 9 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 10. So rb i t o 1 (70%) 11.Sodium Bora te , Anhydrous 12.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 13.Germal l 115 14 . Water
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Wt.% 3 . 0 2.0 5.0 6.2 1 . o 7 .0 5 . 5 5 . 0 0 . 1 5 . 0 0 .3 0 .2 0 . 3
59 .4
Sun Care Products 419
Sunscreen Cream Water-in-Oil (Expected SPF 15+)
A) Laury lmeth i cone c o p o l y o l C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 O c t y l p-methoxy cinnamate Benzophenone-3 T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e ( s m a l l p a r t i c l e s i z e ) G l y c e r y l monooleate C12-15 a l c o h o l s benzoate Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l
B) Water Sodium c h l o r i d e S o r b i t o l (70%)
C) P r e s e r v a t i ve
2.00% 5 .00 7 . 5 0 2.00 4 . 0 0 1 .oo 5 .00 0 .50
q . s . 2.00 3.00
Procedure:
v e r y s l o w l y u s i n g v e r y v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , h e a t i n g t o m e l t hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l . Add C . Pass th rough homogenizer t o i n s u r e smal l u n i f o r m p a r t i c l e s a r e produced. Package.
Combine A u s i n g moderate a g i t a t i o n . Combine 0 . Add B t o A
Skin Bronzing Gream
L-Tyros i ne Phenyl a1 an i ne A s p a r t i c a c i d Esc i n Copper g l u c o n a t e Hydro lyzed c o l l a g e n C a r r o t o l e o r e s i n S t . J o h n ' s Wort e x t r a c t Dihydroxyacetone C e t y l a l c o h o l P r e s e r v a t i v e Emu1 s i f i e r s , t h i cken i ng C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 Lanol i n S t e a r i n T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (85%) Water
agents
0.20% 0.10 0 . 1 0 0 . 0 5 0 .01 1.50 0.15 1 .oo 0.50 1 . o o
4 . 0 0 15.00
3 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 1 .oo
q . s . t o 100.00
q . s .
SOURCE: Wi tco Corp. : Pet ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formula t ions
420 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Cream
1 . 2. 3 . 4. 5 . 6 . 7 . 8 . 9 .
A-C Po lye thy lene 617 Beeswax Amerchol 1-101 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e Dow 200 F l u i d , 350 c s . 2 - E t h y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e T r i g l y c e r o l D i i s o s t e a r a t e E s c a l o l 507 P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e
10. S o r b i t o 1 (70%) 11.Sodium B o r a t e , Anhydrous 1 2 . M e t h y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 13.Germal l 115 14. Water
W t . % 3 . 0 2 . 0 5 . 0 6 . 2 1 . 0 7 . 0 5 . 5 5 . 0 0 . 1
5 . 0 0 . 3 0 . 2 0 . 3
59 .4
Procedure:
a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e in t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v - a t i n g tempera ture i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 10-14 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.
Weigh 1-9 and heat t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has
P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i 11. A t 67C t h e c rude d i s p - e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion fo rms. Cont inue s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de-aera te and package. Ref : 51 89-4-9
O/W Sunscreen Lotion
1 . A-C Copolymer 580 2 . D i s t i 1 l e d I s o p r o p y l L a n o l a t e 3 . E s c a l o l 507 4 . Dow 556 F l u i d 5 . Propy l ene G1 y c o l D i p e l a rgonate 6 . E thoxyo l 24 7 . A r l a c e l 60 8 . Tween 60 9 . P r o p y l - p - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 1 0 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 11 .Carbop01 941 12 .T r ie thano lamine 13.Methy l -p -Hydroxybenzoate 14.Water
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
w3.3 2 . 0 3 . 0 5 . 0 2 . 0
10 .0 1 . o 1 . o 2 . 0 0 . 1 5 . 0 0 . 5 0 .75 0 . 2
67.45
Sun Care Products 421
Sun Screen Cream W/O
A . M i g l y o l Gel B I m w i t o r 780K Aluge l DF 30
9. Hard p a r a f f i n P a r a f f i n o i l Eusolex 6300 A n t i o x i d a n t s
C . Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e
D. Eusolex 232 T r ie thano lamine Mowiol 10-98 Water
W B 2 0 . 0 1 0 . 0
3 . 0
3.0 5 . 0 4 . 0
q s
qs q s
6 . 0 5 . 0 3 . 0
100.0
P r e p a r a t i o n :
B . are b rough t t o t h e same tempera ture and heated t o A . D. i s heated t o approx. 75C and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . + B . Perfume i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t approx . 30C.
The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and heated t o 8OC. Those o f
Sun Screen Cream O/W
A . I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s M i g l y o l 840 Lane t te N Neo He l iopan E 1000
B . 1,2-Propylene g l y c o l Hygropl ex HHG Water
C. Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e
Wt% 1 0 . 0
8 . 0 6 . 0 3 .0
3 . 0 5 . 0
t o 100.0
q s q s
P r e p a r a t i o n : The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e heated t o 75-8OC. Those o f 13. a r e
heated t o t h e same tempera ture and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . Perfume i s added a t approx. 30C.
SOURCE: H u l s America Inc.: Formu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Formulas
422 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sun Screen Cream W/O, Oily
A . M i g l y o l 840 Gel 8 S o f t i s a n 649 I m w i t o r 780 K P a r a f f i n o i 1 Neo Hel iopan E 1000 Hard p a r a f f i n
B . Magnesium s u l p h a t e Water
C . Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e
Q 20.0
5 . 0 5 . 0 8 . 0 3 . 0 3 . 0
2 . 0 t o 100.0
qs qs
Prepara t i on : The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and heated t o 75-80C. Those
o f 8 . a r e b rough t t o t h e same tempera ture and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . Perfume i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t 30C.
Self Tanning Lotion
A .
B .
C .
D .
M i g l y o l 812 Marlowet TA 25 Mar lowet TA 6 Cremophor EL 1 ,2 -Propy lene g l y c o l C e t y l a l c o h o l
Water
Perfume
Dihydroxyacetone Water P rese rva t i ve
Wt$ 5 . 0 1 .5 1 . 5 1 . o 5 . 0 2 .5
t o 100.0
P r e p a r a t i o n : The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e heated t o 75-8OC. Those o f 8. a r e
b rought t o t h e same tempera ture and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . D . i s d i s s - o l v e d and added, t o g e t h e r w i t h C, a t approx . 3 0 C .
SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Formulas
Sun Care Products 423
Sunscreen Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A O c t y l methoxyc inn imate
Benzophenone-3 Ar lamol E S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Dimeth icone, 350 cps . B r i j 721s B r i j 72
B Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 940
C Water, d e i o n i zed Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W / W aqueous)
w 7.00 3 .00 5 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 0 . 5 0 2 .00 2 . 0 0
69.60 0 . 2 0
10.00 0 .20
Procedure:
and s t i r w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) below 60 deg. C . S t i r t o 35 deg. C . Add water t o r e p l a c e loss by e v a p o r a t i o n and package.
Heat (A) t o 60 deg. C and (B) t o 65 deg. C . Add (6) t o ( A )
Sunscreen Cream
I n a r e d i e n t s : A O c t y l methoxyci n n i mate
Benzophenone-3 Ar lamol E S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Dimeth icone, 350 cps . B r i j 721s B r i j 72
B Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 940
C Water, d e i o n i zed Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W / W aqueous)
%w/w 5 .00 0 .50 5 .00 0 . 5 0 0 . 5 0 2 . 0 0 2.00
74.10 0 . 2 0
1 0 . 0 0 0 . 2 0
Procedure: Heat (A) t o 60 deg. C and (B) t o 65 deg. C . Add (6) t o (A)
and s t i r w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) below 60 deg. C . S t i r t o 35 deg. C . Add water t o r e p l a c e l o s s by e v a p o r a t i o n and package.
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
424 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Cream I n a r e d i e n t : o/ow/w P a r t A : De ion i zed Water 78.16 Rheol a t e 5 0 0 0 0 . 3 Propylene Carbonate 2 . 5 P a r t B : Panal ene 8 . 0 S i l i c o n e 7207 1 . o Promulgen D 0 . 5 Ceraphyl 494 2 . 0 P a r t C : AMP-95 0 . 2 4 P a r t D : Euxyl K-400 0 . 3 F i n s o l v TN 2 . 0 E s c a l o l 507 5 . 0 M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A b y s l o w l y s i f t i n g i n t h e
polymer t o t h e wa te r , m i x i n g f o r 20 m inu tes , t h e n add ing t h e p ropy lene g l y c o l . Heat t o 80C.
2 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t 6 , t h e n hea t t o 78C. 3 . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M ix f o r 1 0 minutes, t h e n
add P a r t C . 4. Cool t o 40C b e f o r e add ing P a r t D . Package a t Room Temperature. Formula TS-330
Suntan Cream Mater i a 1 s : % by Weiqht P a r t A : 1 . De ion ized Water 73.50 2 . G l y c e r i n e 2.50 3 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 . 7 0 4 . Me thy l Paraben 0 . 1 0 5 . Bentone LT r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 0 . 5 0 P a r t E : 6 . Ceraphyl 424 3 . 0 0 7 . I s o c e t y l S t e a r a t e 2.00 0 . A c e t o l 2 .50 9 . Cocoa B u t t e r 1 . o o 10 .Hys t rene 5016 4.00 11 . Lexemul 503 6 .80 1 2 . E s c a l o l 507 3 .00 13 . P ropy l Paraben 0 . 1 0 P a r t C : Fragrance 0 . 3 0 M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . P a r t A - In a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e , add i t e m s
1 t o 4 and hea t t o 60C. Us ing a homomixer, add i t e m 5 s l o w l y t o a v o i d lumps and m i x f o r 20 m inu tes o r u n t i l homogeneous. Heat t o 80C.
80C. M i x u n t i 1 compl e t e l y me1 t e d and homogeneous. 2. P a r t 5 - I n a separa te v e s s e l , add i t e m s 6 t o 1 3 and hea t t o
3 . Add P a r t B s l o w l y i n P a r t A a t 80C u s i n g sweep b l a d e s . 4 . A t 50C, add P a r t C, homogenize and f i l l u n i t s . Formula TS-256 SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products 425
Sunscreen Gel (approx. SPF 10)
A c l e a r sunscreen g e l des igned t o p r o v i d e UV p r o t e c t i o n w h i l e l e a v i n g t h e s k i n s o f t and c o n d i t i o n e d . Geahlene p r o v i d e s v i s c - o s i t y , emol? iency , and water r e p e l l e n c y t o t h i s fo rmu la .
I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Wei ah t% A M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Bu ty lene /E thy lene /
S ty rene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Ethy lene/ Propy lene/Sty rene Copolymer//Geahlene 750 73.80
Oc ty ldodecy l Neopentanoate/Elefac 1-205 14.00 Tocopherol Ace ta te /V i tam in E Ace ta te 0 .50 Fragrance 0.10
B O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Parsol MCX Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e / U v i n u l 0-18 Propy l paraben
7 .50 2 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 0 . 1 0
C D&C Green No. 6 q.s.
Procedure:
w i t h moderate m i x i n g . Add C as necessary . Mix A u n t i l homogeneous. Heat B t o 60C u n t i l c l e a r . Add B t o A
Sunscreen Gel (approx. SPF 12)
A c l e a r sunscreen g e l w i t h e x c e l l e n t s p r e a d a b i l i t y and a p leasan t , e m o l l i e n t a f t e r f e e l . Geahlene p r o v i d e s v i s c o s i t y , l u b r i c i t y , and water r e p e l l e n c y t o t h i s fo rmu la .
I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Wei nh t% A M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Bu ty lene /E thy lene /
S ty rene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated E thy lene / Propy lene/Sty rene Copolymer//Geahlene 750 65.00
I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e / P r i s o r i ne 2021 20 .80 Tocopherol Ace ta te /V i tami n E Ace ta te 0 .50 Fragrance 0 .10
B O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Parsol MCX Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e / U v i n u l 0-18 Propylparaben
7 .50 4.00 2 .00 0.10
C D&C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake q.s.
Procedure:
A w i t h moderate m i x i n g . Add C as necessary .
SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Mix A u n t i l homogeneous. Heat B t o 60C u n t i l c l e a r . Add B t o
426 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Gel SPF 6 (FDA-OTC)*
I n q r e d i e n t s : A E t h y l a l c o h o l (96 V o l . %) denatured
Demi n e r a l i zed water 1 ,P-Propyl ene g l y c o l Germaben I 1 A1 1 a n t o i n D-Panthenol Carbopol 940
B Demi n e r a l i zed water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
C Demi n e r a l i zed water Neo He l iopan, Type Hydro T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
D Cremophor NP 14 Perfume O i l
E Sunset Ye l low 307009 1% aq. s o l u t i o n
m 5,000
60,350 5 , 0 0 0 1,000 0,100 0,500 1,100
5,000 2,200
15,000 2,000 1,200
1,200 0,300
0,050
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r : Tested SPF 5 . 9 on a f i v e s u b j e c t panel a c c o r d i n g t o t h e FDA-OTC proposed method.
M a n u f a c t u r i n g Process: P a r t A :
t o i n i n t h e a l c o h o l - w a t e r s o l u t i o n . Then s l o w l y add w h i l e s t i r r i n g Carbopol 940 and c o n t i n u e u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . P a r t B:
D i l u t e t h e n e u t r a l i z i n g agent w i t h water and add s l o w l y i n t o p a r t A f o r n e u t r a l i z a t i o n . A h i g h v i s c i d g e l w i l l be formed. P a r t C :
Add Neo He l iopan, Type Hydro w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e water t o g e t a suspension. Cont inue s t i r r i n g and add s l o w l y t r i e t h a n - o lamine u n t i l t h e n e u t r a l i z a t i o n o f Neo He l iopan, Type Hydro i s complete and a c l e a r s o l u t i o n i s o b t a i n e d . Before adding t h e s o l u t i o n i n t o t h e g e l p a r t A/B, i t i s recommendable t o f i l t e r t h e s o l u t i on. P a r t D:
t u r e w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e g e l A/B/C. P a r t E :
D i s s o l ve propy lene g l y c o l , Germaben 11, Panthenol and A1 1 an-
B lend t h e perfume o i l w i t h t h e s o l u b i l i z e r and add t h e mix-
W h i l e s t i r r i n g , add t h e c o l o r a n t t o t h e t r a n s p a r e n t g e l .
The pH v a l u e o f t h e g e l shou ld be approx. 7 .2 -7 .5 . A t a pH v a l u e below 7 Neo He l iopan, Type Hydro c o u l d p r e c i p i t a t e .
SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: Formula K 18/5-51282 D/E
Sun Care Products 427
Sunscreen LotionT h i s fo rmu la demonstrates t h e r h e o l o g i c a and s t a b i l i z i n g
p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a and o f S i l i c o n y l Beeswax. Inco rp - o r a t e d i n t o t h i s fo rmu la i s t h e sunscreen N o He l iopan AV ( O c t y l methoxycinnamate) g i v i n g t h i s fo rmu la an a p p r o p r i a t e SPF va lue . The p roduc t has h i g h g l o s s and e x c e l l e n t s k i n f e e l . The r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a a l l o w f o r t h i s p roduc t t o be packaged i n conven ien t t ubes o r squeeze b o t t l e s . O i l Phase: Neo He l iopan AV (H&R) 5.00% Squalane (Centerchem) 2.00% Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax; Kos ter Keunen) 4.00% G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel) 0.50% L i g h t M ine ra l O i l (Wi tco) 1.50% I s o s t e a r i c Ac id (Unichema) 4.00% Liquapar (Su t ton ) 0.40% O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( I n o l e x ) 5.00% Shea B u t t e r (Kos ter Keunen) 4.00% E m u l s i f y i n g Wax (Kos te r Keunen) 1.50% V i tam in E (BASF) 0.10% V i tam in A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) 0.10% S t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) 0 .50% Ceres ine 130/135 (Kos te r Keunen) 0.70% Hexanediol Behenyl Beeswax (Kos te r Keunen) 1.00% S i l i c o n y l Beeswax (Kos te r Keunen) 1.40% Propy l Paraben (Su t ton ) 0.20% E le fac I 205 (Berne l ) 1.40% Sunf 1 ower O i 1 ( L i po) 3.00% Propylene G lyco l D ioc tana te ( I n o l e x ) 5.00% I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) 3.00% D i i s o s t e a r y l Mal a t e (Be rne l ) 1.20% Gamma Orzanol (Kos te r Keunen) 1 .OO% Water Phase: Water (D i s t i 11 ed) 41 .70% 1,3-Butylene G l y c o l (Hoechst) 3.00% Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e (Hercu les) 0.30% K e l t r o l TF (Ke lco) 0.30% Methyl Paraben (Su t ton ) 0.30% Sodium Bora te (Borax) 0.60% Water Phase 11: Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) 5.00% Tea 99% (Dow) 0.80% Act i ve Phase : S i l i c o n e 245 (Dow) 1.00% Phenonip (N ipa) 0.50%
Heat t h e water phase t o 8OC under a g i t a t i o n ensu r ing t h a t t h e e n t i r e phase i s s o l u b i l i z e d . Heat and mix t h e o i l phase t o 82C. S low ly add t h e o i l phase t o t h e water phase, c o o l t o 70C and add water phase 11. Cool t o 40 and add t h e a c t i v e phase. Cool t o room tempera ture .
I t i s easy t o a l t e r t h e sunscreen t o s u i t your p re fe rence , w i t h o u t changing t h e cons is tency . The emulsion v i s c o s i t y can e a s i l y be a l t e r e d by changing t h e o i l and/or wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n . Orange Wax (Kos te r Keunen) can be added t o n a t u r a l l y enhance SPF. SOURCE: Koster Keunen, I nc . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
428 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Lotion (approx. SPF 15)
T h i s nongreasy sunscreen i s e a s i l y a p p l i e d and has a d r y a f t e r f e e l . The Geahlene 750 adds v i s c o s i t y and r i c h n e s s t o t h e l o t i o n , and shou ld c o n t r i b u t e t o water r e s i s t a n c e .
I n s r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: A De ion ized Water
A c r y l a t e s C10-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Cross-
Methy lparaben Tetrasodium EDTA/Hamp-Ene 220
polymer/Carbopol 1382
B T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99%
C M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hvdrosenated Butv lene/Ethy lene/ S ty rene Copolymer i a n d j Hyd Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Parso Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 O c t y l Sal i cy1 a te /Uv i n u l 0-1 8 C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 16 Propylparaben Phenoxyethanol/Emeressence 1
ogenated Ethy lene/ /Geahl ene 750
MCX
60 S t e a r i c Ac i d/Emersol 132 Potass i um C e t y l Phosphate/Amphi s o l K
D D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea/Germal l I 1
Procedure:
Fragrance
Wei aht% 69.80
0.20 0 . 1 5 0.10
0.20
0 . 0 0 7 . 5 0 4.00 2 * 00 1 . o o 0 .05 0 .60 2.00 2 . 0 0
0 .30 0 . 1 0
D i sperse Carbopol 1382 i n r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d de i o n i zed w a t e r . M ix u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y lump- f ree . Heat t o 80C. Add remain ing p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r , heat p a r t C t o 80-85C. M i x u n t i l a l l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t C t o p a r t A . M i x f o r 30 minutes u n t i l homogeneous. Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t D . Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 30C.
SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Sun Care Products 429
Sunscreen Lotion
I n s r e d i e n t s : A O c t y l methoxyci nnimate
Benzophenone-3 Pe t ro la tum Dimethicone B r i j 721s B r i j 72
B Water, de i o n i zed Carbomer 934
C Water, de i on i zed Sodium hyd rox ide (10% W / W aqueous)
w 7.00 3 .00
25.00 3.00 1.20 3 .00
46.60 0 . 2 0
10 .00 0.20
Procedure:
and s t i r w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) below 60 deg. C . S t i r t o 35 deg. C . Add water t o r e p l a c e l o s s by evapora t i on and package.
Heat (A) t o 60 deg. C and ( 8 ) t o 65 deg. C . Add (B) t o (A)
O/W Emollient Sunscreen Lotion
I n n r e d i e n t s : A O c t y l d ime thy l PABA
Benzophenone-3 Ar lamol E S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Dimethicone A r l a s o l v e 200 B r i j 72
Carbomer 934 B Water
C Sodium hyd rox ide (10% W/W aqueous)
D * P r e s e r v a t i v e and f rag rance
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
w 7.00 3 . 0 0 7 . 0 0 2 .50 1 . o o 3 .10 3.90
72.10 0.20
0 .20
Procedure: D isperse Carbomer i n water and hea t (B) t o 70C. Heat ( A ) t o
72C. and add (B) t o (A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S low ly add ( C ) and i n c r e a s e speed of t h e a g i t a t i o n as needed. Add ( D ) and r e p l a c e water l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n .
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
430 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Lotion (O/W) SPF 6 (DIN 67501)*
I n n r e d i e n t s : Demi n e r a l i zed water Carbopol 934 Sodium hyd rox ide , (10% aq. s o l u t i o n ) Teg in M Tagat S Lane t te 0 P a r a f f i n o i 1 (70 mPas) I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e M y r i t o l 318 Neo He l iopan, Type AV C e t i o l MM A b i l 100 Phenoni p Demi n e r a l i zed water Phenoni p Neo He l iopan, Type Hydro
used as a 15% aq. s o l u t i o n n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h i d e cor respond ing 0,5% a c t i v e Neo He l iopan,
1,2-Propylene g l y c o l Demi n e r a l i zed water Phosphor ic a c i d, D i sod i um s a l t Phosphor ic a c i d , Monopotassium s a l t Perfume O i l
%(w/w) 25,000
0,400 2,050 2,500 1,950 1,800 2,500 2,000 3,000 2,500 2,000 0,500 0,200
36,850 0,300 3,350
sod i urn hydrox- Type Hydro
2,000 10,000 0,580 0,120 0,400
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n Fac to r Tested mean SPF 6 acco rd ing t o t h e German D I N 67501 method.
Manu fac tu r ing Process: P a r t A :
D isperse t h e Carbopol i n water u s i n g h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . M ix t o fo rm a u n i f o r m d i s p e r s i o n f r e e f rom lumps. Wi th s t i r r i n g add t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n t h e sodium hyd rox ide s o l u t i o n t o fo rm a h i g h v i s c i d g e l . P a r t 0 : Heat t o 75C. P a r t C:
M ix w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 60C and add t h e Carbopol ge l p a r t A . P a r t D:
D i s s o l v e D i sod i um Phosphate and Po tass i um Phosphate i n water a t 60C. Add t h e b u f f e r s o l u t i o n t o t h e emuls ion a t 55-60C. P a r t E :
Cont inue s t i r r i n g t o room tempera ture .
Heat t o 85C. Add p a r t C t o p a r t B w h i l e s t i r r i n g r a p i d l y .
Cool w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o 35-40C and add t h e perfume o i l .
The pH-value o f t h e f i n i s h e d emulsion shou ld be 7 . 5 and must be c o n t r o l l e d .
SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: Fo rmu la t i on K 18/1-51093 D/E
Sun Care Products 431
Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) SPF 11 (DIN 67501)*
I n a r e d i e n t s : Teg in M Tagat S L a n e t t e 0 P a r a f f i n o i l (70mPas) I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e M y r i t o l 318 Neo He l i opan , Type E C e t i o l MM A b i l 100 Phenoni p
1000
%(w/w) 3,500 1,500 2 ,700 2 , 0 0 0 2,000 3,000 3,000 2 ,000 0,500 0,200
Demine ra l i zed wa te r 5 2 , 5 0 0 Carbopol 934 0,400 Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% aq. s o l u t i o n ) 2,050 Neo He l i opan , Type Hydro used as a 15% aq. s o l u t i o n 13,350
n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e co r respond ing 2% a c t i v e Neo He l i opan , Type Hydro
Phenoni p 0 , 2 0 0
Demine ra l i zed wa te r Phosphor ic a c i d , Disodium s a l t Phosphor ic a c i d , Monopotassium s a l t
10,000 0,580 0,120
Perfume O i l 0,400
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r : Tes ted mean SPF 11 .8 a c c o r d i n g t o t h e German DIN 67501
method.
Manu fac tu r ing Process: P a r t A : Heat t o 7 5 C . P a r t 8 :
D ispe rse t h e Carbopol w e l l i n water u s i n g h i g h speed a g i t - a t i o n . M i x t o f o r m a u n i f o r m d i s p e r s i o n f r e e f r o m lumps. Add w i t h s t i r r i n g t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n Phenonip and t h e sodium hydrox- i d e s o l u t i o n . Then add t h e n e u t r a l i z e d s o l u t i o n o f t h e 15% Neo He l i opan , Type Hydro and hea t t o 85C. Add p a r t B s l o w l y w i t h tho rough a g i t a t i o n t o p a r t A . Then c o o l w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 60C. P a r t C :
a t 60C ( b u f f e r system). Add p a r t C t o p a r t A/B and c o o l w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 35-40C. P a r t D:
D i s s o l v e D i c a l c i um Phosphate and Po tass i um Phosphate i n water
Add t h e perfume o i l and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g t o room tempera tu re .
The pH v a l u e o f t h e f i n i s h e d emuls ion shou ld be 7 . 5 and must be c o n t r o l l e d .
SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: F o r m u l a t i o n K 1 8 / 1 - 5 1 0 9 7 / E
432 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Lotion (O/W) SPF 4 (DIN 67501)
I n q r e d i e n t s : A A r l a t o n e 983 S
B r i j 76 L a n e t t e 0 P a r a f f i n o i l (70 mPas) Cegesof t C24 Eutano l G B a y s i l o n e F l u i d M10 Neo H e l i o p a n , Type E 1000 S o l b r o l P
1,2 Propy lene g l y c o l S o l b r o l M Germal l 115
Carbopol 934 Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% s o l u t i o n i n Perfume O i l
B Demine ra l i zed water
C Demi n e r a l i zed water
w a t e r )
%(w/w) 1,500 1 , 0 0 0 I , 200 2,000 3,000 5 , 0 0 0 1 ,000 3,500 o , oao
52,370 2,000 0,200 0 ,150
25,000 0,300 1,300 0,400
Manu fac tu r ing Process: P a r t A : Heat up t o 75C. P a r t B : Heat up t o 85C. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g .
P a r t C : D i s p e r s e t h e Carbopol i n t h e water u s i n g h i g h speed Cool w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 55C.
a g i t a t i o n . M i x t o f o r m a u n i f o r m d i s p e r s i o n f r e e f r o m lumps. Add sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o f o r m a h i g h v i s c i d g e l . Add p a r t C t o p a r t A/B w h i l e s t i r r i n g . A t 35C add t h e f r a g r a n c e and c o o l down w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o room tempera ture . The pH v a l u e o f t h e f i n i s h e d emuls ion s h o u l d be 7-7 .5 .
SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: Formula K 18/1-51 090 / E
Sun Care Products 433
Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) SPF 18 (FDA-OTC)*
I n g r e d i e n t s : Neo He l i opan , Type AV Neo He l iopan, TvDe MA . . _ . I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e M y r j 52 C u t i n a MD Promulgen D Antaron V-220 Bays i l one F l u i d M 10
Demi n e r a l i zed water Carbopol 940; used as a 2% aq. s o l u t i o n 1,2-Propylene g l y c o l T r i l o n BD
%(w/w) 7,500 5,000 3 i000 2,000 3,000 2,000 4,000 2,000
45,830 15,000
2,000 0,100
Neo He l i opan , Type Hydro used as a 30% aq. s o l u t i o n 6,670 n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e co r respond ing 2% a c t i v e Neo He l i opan Type Hydro
T r ie thano lamine 0,500
Germaben I 1 Perfume O i l
1,000 0,400
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r : Tes ted mean SPF v a l u e 18.25 on a f i v e s u b j e c t pane l acco rd ing t o t h e FDA-OTC proposed method.
Manu fac tu r ing Process: I n a s u i t a b l e vesse l weigh phase A and hea t t o 75C w i t h
a g i t a t i o n . I n another vesse l a b l e t o c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e ba tch , weigh phase B and hea t t o 75C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . S low ly add phase A t o phase 0, m i x for 10 m inu tes and add phase C. M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m and s t a r t coo l i ng w i t h con t inuous a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 40C and add phases D and E. Cont inue c o o l i n g w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o 28-25C and package.
SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: Fo rmu la t i on K 18/1-51677/E
434 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Lotion (w/o) SPF 10 (DIN 67501)*
I n g r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 481
A r l a c e l 989 Eutanol G I s o p r o p y l i s o s t e a r a t e P a r a f f i n o i l (70 mPas) Neo He l i opan , Type E 1000 Neo He l i opan , Type AV Neo He l i opan , Type BB B a y s i l o n e F l u i d M 10 V a s e l i n e Type Merkur 1546 Amerchol L 101 S o l b r o l P
B Demi n e r a l i zed water S o l b r o l M G l y c e r i n 86% Magnesi um s u l f a t e
%(w/w) 3,500 1,500 2,250 2,250 3,340 4,000 4 ,000 1,000 1,000 7,500 1,000 0,080
65,380 0,200 2,000 0 ,500
C Perfume O i l 0 ,500
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r : Tested mean SPF 1 0 . 6 a c c o r d i n g t o t h e German D I N 67501 method.
Manu fac tu r ing Process: P a r t A : Heat t o 75C. P a r t B:
s t i r r i n g . A t 70C homogenize t h e emuls ion f o r a few m inu tes . P a r t C :
35C i n t o t h e emuls ion. Then c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g t o room temp- e r a t u r e .
SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: F o r m u l a t i o n K 18/1-51098/E
Heat t o 85-9OC. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A s l o w l y under tho rough
Con t inue c o o l i n g under s t i r r i n g and add t h e perfume o i l a t
Sun Care Products 435
Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) (cold processing) SPF 6 (FDA-OTC)*, waterproof**
I n p r e d i e n t s : A Demi n e r a l i zed wa te r
1 ,Z -p ropy l ene g l y c o l A roso l S o l b r o l M S o l b r o l P T r i l o n B l i q u i d
B Nso He l i opan , Type A V Neo Hel iopan, Type E 1000 P a r a f f i n o i l ( 7 0 mPas) C e t i o l S Lameform TGI Perfume o i l Pemulen TR-1 Carbopol 954
%(w/w) 77,500
2,000 0 ,500 0,250 0,100 0 , 1 0 0
3 ,000 3,000 6,500 5,000 1 , 0 0 0 0,300 0,250 0 ,050
C T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0,450
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n Factor(SPF): The SPF was determined on a f i v e s u b j e c t panel t e s t a c c o r d i n g t o t h e FDA-OTC proposed method.
The procedure f o r d e t e r m i n i n g " w a t e r p r o o f " e f f e c t i v e n e s s was 20 minutes moderate a c t i v i t y i n w a t e r . The SPF b e f o r e water immersion was 5 . 7 and a f t e r water immersion 6 . 1 .
**Waterproof :
Manu fac tu r ing Process: P a r t A :
m i x t u r e and T r i l o n B l i q u i d t o t h e w a t e r . P a r t B:
Carbopol and Pemulen v e r y c a r e f u l l y w i t h h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . Then add p a r t B t o p a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . S t i r f o r 45 m inu tes . P a r t C :
The pH-value o f t h e f i n i s h e d emuls ion shou ld be approx. 7 and has t o be c o n t r o l l e d .
SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: F o r m u l a t i o n K 18/1-51 669 C / E
D i s s o l v e A r o s o l , S o l t r o l P and M i n p ropy lene g l y c o l . Add t h e
M i x a1 1 i n g r e d i e n t s ( w i t h o u t Permul en and Carbopol ) . D ispe rse
Add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e w h i l e s t i r r i n g and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous.
436 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen LotionSPF 30 (FDA-OTC)*
I n g r e d i e n t s : A Neo He l iopan, Type AV
Neo He l i opan , Type BB Neo He l iopan, Type 303 Ganex WP 660 L a n e t t e 0 A b i l 100 Protachem SQI
B De ion ized water Carbopol 940 used as a 2% aq. s o l u t i o n Pemulen TR-1 used as a 2% aq. s o l u t i o n l I2 -Propy1 ene g l y c o l
%(w/w) 7,500 6,000 91000 3,000 0,500 2,000 0,200
52,150 5,000
10,000 3,000
C T r i e thano l ami ne 0,250
D Germaben I 1 Perfume O i l
1,000 0.400
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r : Tes ted SPF 31.5 on a f i v e s u b j e c t panel acco rd ing t o t h e FDA-OTC proposed method.
Manu fac tu r ing Process: I n a s u i t a b l e vesse l weigh phase A, hea t up t o BOC-85C and
mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . I n another vesse l a b l e t o c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e ba tch , weigh phase 8, hea t t o 80C and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . S low ly add phase A t o phase B w i t h a g i t a t i o n and mix f o r t e n m inu tes . S l o w l y add phase C and s t a r t c o o l i n g . Cool w i t h con t inuous a g i t - a t i o n t o 40C and add phase D. Cont inue c o o l i n g w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o 28C-25C. M i l l and package.
SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: Fo rmu la t i on H 101-47-5
Sun Care Products 437
Sunscreen Lotion (O/W) Tested SPF 10
I n a r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 165
Eumulgin B 2 L a n e t t e 0 M y r i t o l 318 C e t i o l OE A b i l 100 Bentone Gel M I 0 C u t i n a CBS Neo He l iopan, Type AV Neo He l iopan, Type E 1000 Neo He l iopan, Type MBC Neo He l i opan , Type BB
B Deminera l i zed water Phenoni p G l y c e r i n 86% Veegum u l t r a N a t r o s o l 250 HHR Z i n c Oxide n e u t r a l H&R
C Perfume o i l
% ( w / w l 3.00 1 . o o 1 .15 4 . 0 0 5.00 1 . o o 3.00 1 .oo 3.00 3 .00 1 . o o 0.70
63.05 0.50 3 .00 1 . o o 0 .30 5.00
0.30
Manu fac tu r ing Process: P a r t A : Heat up t o 75C w i t h thorough a g i t a t i o n . P a r t 8:
add t h e Veegum u l t r a and t h e N a t r o s o l d u r i n g h i g h speed a g i t a - t i o n . Then d i s p e r s e Z i n c Oxide N e u t r a l H&R i n t h e water phase. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Cool down w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o room tempera ture . P a r t C :
emu1 s i on.
and has t o be checked.
Add Phenonip and g l y c e r i n t o t h e wa te r . Heat up t o 95C. Then
A t 30C add t h e perfume o i l t o P a r t A/B and homogenize t h e
The pH-value o f t h e f i n i s h e d emuls ion shou ld be approx . 7
I n s t r u c t i on : I n EEC c o u n t r i e s t h e use o f more t h a n 0 . 5 % Benzophenone-3 i n
sunscreen p r o d u c t s i s 1 i a b l e t o d e c l a r e : c o n t a i n s Oxybenzone.
SOURCE: Haarman 8, Reimer: Formula K 18/1-21287/E
438 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Lotion (O/W) Tested SPF 16
I n a r e d i e n t s : A r l a c e l 165 Eumulgin 82 L a n e t t e 0 M y r i t o l 318 C e t i o l OE A b i l 100 Bentone Gel MI0 Neo He1 i opan, Type AV Neo He l iopan, Type E 1000 C u t i n a CBS
Demi n e r a l i zed water G l y c e r i n 86% Phenoni p Neo He l i opan , Type Hydro; used as a
n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h sodium hyd rox ide Veegum u l t r a N a t r o s o l 250 HHR Z i n c Oxide n e u t r a l H&R
%(w/w) 3 . 0 0 1 . o o 1 .oo 4.00 5.00 1 % O O 3,OO 4.00 4.00 1 . oo
49.60 3.00 0.50
15% s o l u t i o n 13.30
1 .oo 0.30 5.00
( a c t i v e : 2 .00%)
Perfume o i l 0 . 3 0
Manu fac tu r ing Process: P a r t A : Heat up t o 75C w i t h thorough a g i t a t i o n . P a r t 8:
s o l u t i o n t o t h e wa te r . Heat up t o 95C. Add Veegum u l t r a and N a t r o s o l d u r i n g h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . Then add Z i n c Oxide n e u t r a l H&R and d i s p e r s e . Add P a r t B w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o P a r t A Cont inue s t i r r i n g t o toom tempera ture . P a r t C :
emuls ion .
7 . 5 and has t o be checked.
SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: Fo rmu la t i on K 18/1-21284/E
Add Phenonip, g l y c e r i n and t h e Ne0 He l iopan, Type Hydro
A t 30C add t h e perfume o i l t o P a r t A/B and homogenize t h e
The pH-value o f t h e f i n i s h e d emuls ion shou ld be approx.
Sun Care Products 439
Sunscreen Lotion (w/o) SPF 6 (FDA-OTC), waterproof*
I n q r e d i e n t s : A A b i l EM 90
Teg in T 4753 C e t i o l S P a r a f f i n o i l (34 mPas)
% ( w / w ) 2,000 1 ,000
l7;OOO 8,500
B Demi n e r a l i zed water 58,450 Neo Hel iopan, Type Hydro used as a 30% aq s o l u t i o n 10,000
n e u t r a l i zed w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e cor respond ing 3% a c t i v e Neo He l iopan, Type Hydro
1 ,2-Propyl ene g l y c o l 2,000 T r i e thano l ami ne 0,350 Phenoni p 0,400
C Perfume O i l 0,300
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r : Tested mean SPF v a l u e b e f o r e swim 6.32 and a f t e r swim 5.76 on a f i v e s u b j e c t panel a c c o r d i n g t o t h e FDA-OTC proposed method.
M a n u f a c t u r i n g Process: P a r t A : Heat t o 70C. P a r t B:
D i s s o l v e t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e w a t e r . The pH v a l u e o f t h e water phase p a r t B s h o u l d be 7 .5 and must be c o n t r o l l e d . Now add p a r t B w h i l e s l o w l y s t i r r i n g t o p a r t A w i t h i n a t i m e o f 3-5 minu tes ( h o t / c o l d p rocedure) . P a r t C :
emuls ion t h r o u g h a homogeniser ( c o l l o i d m i l l ) .
SOURCE: Haarrnan & Reirner: F o r m u l a t i o n K 18/1-51566 A/E
Cont inue s t i r r i n g , a t 30C add t h e f r a g r a n c e . Then pass t h e
440 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Lotion (W/O) Tested SPF 11
I n n r e d i e n t s : A Dehymuls HRE 7
Lameform TGI Pemul g i n 3220 I s o p r o p y l i s o s t e a r a t e C e t i o l OE B a y s i l o n e F l u i d M 10 V i t a m i n E Ace ta te Neo He l iopan, Type AV Neo He l i opan , Type E 1000 Neo He1 i opan, Type MBC Neo He l iopan, Type BB
B Demi n e r a l i zed water G l y c e r i n 86% Phenoni p Z i n c Oxide n e u t r a l H&R
C Perfume o i l
%(w/w) 4 . 0 0 4.00 1 .so 8.00 7 .50 1 .oo 0 . 5 0 4.00 4 . 0 0 1 . 0 0 1 .so
54.10 3.00 0.50 5 .00
0.40
Manufac tu r ing Process: P a r t A : Heat up t o 75C w i t h thorough a g i t a t i o n . P a r t B:
and d i s p e r s e t h e Z i n c Oxide n e u t r a l H&R. Add P a r t B t o p a r t A s l o w l y w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Cont inue s t i r r i n g t o room tempera ture . P a r t C :
emuls ion .
Heat up t o 9OC ( w i t h o u t t h e Z inc Oxide n e u t r a l H&R). Then add
A t 40C add t h e perfume o i l t o p a r t A / B and homogenize t h e
I n s t r u c t i on :
sunscreen p r o d u c t s i s l i a b l e t o d e c l a r e : c o n t a i n s Oxybenzone.
SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: Fo rmu la t i on K 18/1-51835/E
I n EEC c o u n t r i e s t h e use o f more t h a n 0.5% Benzophenone-3 i n
Sun Care Products 441
Sunscreen Moisturizing Cream
T h i s f o r m u l a demonstrates t h e s t a b i l i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f S i l i c o n y l Beeswax. I n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h i s fo rmula i s t h e sun- screen Neo He l iopan AV ( O c t y l methoxycinnamate) g i v i n g t h i s fo rmula an a p p r o p r i a t e SPF v a l u e . The cream has h i g h g l o s s and e x c e l l e n t s k i n f e e l . O i l Phase: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen) 6.0% E le fac I 205 ( B e r n e l ) 1.4% G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel ) 1 .4% I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) 2.0% Ceres ine 130/135 (Kos ter Keunen) 1.3% Propy l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) 0.2% Squalane (Centerchem) 1.8% Jo joba o i l ( J o j o b a Growers) 1 .O% Liquapar ( S u t t o n ) 0.4% Neo He l iopan AV (H&R) 5.0% V i t a m i n E (BASF) 1 .O% O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( I n o l e x ) 2.5% Shea B u t t e r (Kos ter Keunen) 2 * 5% I s o s t e a r i c a c i d (Unichema) 3 .O% L ipopeg 100-S ( L i p o ) 1.5% S i l i c o n y l Beeswax (Kos ter Keunen) 3.0% E m u l s i f y i n g Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1.7% Hexanediol Behenyl Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 .O% Gamma Orzanol ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 .O% Water Phase: Water (D i s t i 1 l e d ) 44.3% Buty lene G l y c o l (Hoechst) 3.0% Sodium Bora te (Borax) 0.8% Methy l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) 0.3% Aloe Vera Gel 1:l ( A c t i v e Organ ics) 3.0% G l y c e r i n 99% 4.0% K e l t r o l TF (Ke lco) 0 . 3 % Water Phase 11: TEA 99% (Dow) 1 .O%
A c t i v e Phase: S i l i c o n e 245 (Dow) 1.0% Phenoni p (N i pa) 0.5% Procedure:
e n t i r e phase i s s o l u b i l i z e d . M e l t and mix t h e o i l phase t o 82C i s ma in ta ined. A t t h e l a s t minu te added t h e gamma orzano l t o t h e o i l phase, a l l o w t o d i s p e r s e t h e n s l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e water phase w h i l e m i x i n g . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 45C and add t h e s i l i c o n e and t h e phenonip. Cool t o room tempera ture . A d a p t a t i o n o f fo rmula and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :
I t i s easy t o a l t e r t h e sunscreen t o s u i t your p r e f e r e n c e , w i t h o u t changing t h e c o n s i s t e n c y I The emu1 s i on v i scos i t y can e a s i l y be a l t e r e d by changing t h e o i l and/or wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n . Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) can be added t o n a t u r a l l y enhance t h e SPF. SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions
D . I. Water 5.0%
Heat t h e water phase t o 8OC under a g i t a t i o n e n s u r i n g t h a t t h e
442 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Tanning Accelerator
P a r t A : Water Carbomer 934
P a r t 0 : Rosswax 1824 Rosswax 2540
Ross Jo joba O i l 'Esca lo l 507 Coconut O i l #76 Uni p e r t a n P-24
P a r t C : Germaben I 1
P a r t D: F ragrance
P a r t E: T r i e thano l ami ne
GMS-SE
P a r t s by Wei q h t 5 0 0 . 0
2 . 0
15 .0 6 . 0 6 . 0 4 .0
1 2 . 0 25 .0
3 . 0
6 . 0
q . s .
4 . 5
Procedure:
934 u n t i l f u l l y d i spe rsed under a g i t a t i o n . I n a separa te steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t t h e O i l Phase. When f u l l y me l ted , add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Water Phase under a g i t a t i o n . Then add t h e Germaben 1 1 , t h e n t h e f r a g r a n c e and f i n a l l y add t h e TEA w i t h h i g h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l smooth. Cool t o 130F and package.
I n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e hea t t h e water and add t h e Carbomer
Sun Screen Stick
I n g r e d i e n t s : Ross Wh i te Bleached Beeswax Ross Pure Re f ined C a n d e l i l l a Wax Ross Pure #1 Ye l l ow Carnauba Wax Pe t ro la tum I PM M i n e r a l O i l 60/70 Ross Jo joba O i 1 Amerscreen P
% 20 .0 16.1 4.0
1 6 . 1 10 .0 32 .6
1 .2 9 . S .
Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y mixed c o o l t o 145F and package. (Note : Capping may be necessary ) .
SOURCE: Frank 0 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e t o 170F under
Sun Care Products 443
Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof SunscreenSPF 12 (Tested)
Dermacryl 79 p r o v i d e s water r e s i s t a n c e , i nc reased m o i s t u r e p r o t e c t i o n and r u b - o f f r e s i s t a n c e .
Incaredients : Phase A: Ceraphyl I C A F i n s o l v TN Emersol 132 M y r j 52s A b i l 88852 C e t y l A l coho l Cerasynt SD Armeen DM 18D Dermacryl-79 T i o v e i l F I N
Phase 8: Deioni zed Water Carbomer 941 (2% Aq. So ln ) Methylparaben Propy lparaben T r ie thano lamine (99%)
Phase C: Germal l II
Phase D: Fragrance
% w/w
7 .00 2.00 2 .00 2.00 1 .oo 1 .OD 0 .50 2 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 10.00
59.30 10.00
0.15 0.10 0.80
0.15
Q.S.
Procedure: Combine Phase B and heat t o 8OC. I n a separa te vessel combine
Phase A except f o r Dermacryl-79 and T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e and heat t o 8OC. S low ly s i f t i n Dermacryl-79 w i t h cons tan t s t i r r i n g u n t i l comp le te l y d i s s o l v e d . Add T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e w i t h cons tan t s t i r r i n g u n t i l comp le te l y d i spe rsed . Add Phase A t o Phase B a t 8OC and mix f o r 30 minu tes . Cool t o 40C and add Phase C and Phase D, homogenize, c o o l t o room tempera ture and package.
SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co.: Formula 7023-24A
444 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Ultra Violet Absorbing Sunscreen
Veegum U l t r a , magnesium aluminum s i l i c a t e , i s used t o t h i c k e n and s t a b i l i z e t h i s sunscreen emuls ion . Two u l t r a v i o l e t absorbers a r e used t o a c h i e v e an e s t i m a t e d SPF (Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r ) o f app rox ima te l y 1 5 . T h i s smooth, f l o w a b l e l o t i o n spreads e a s i l y and d r i e s q u i c k l y , l e a v i n g non-tacky a f t e r - f e e l .
I n g r e d i e n t : A Veegum U l t r a (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e )
Dei o n i zed Water
% bv W t . 1 . 5 0
7 0 . 5 0 G l y c e r i n 5 . 5 0
B PEG-I50 D i s t e a r a t e D i o c t y l Mal a t e * M i n e r a l O i l C e t y l A1 coho1 Benzophenone-3 O c t y l D imethy l PABA S tea re th -2 Steare th-20
3 .00 2 . 0 0 4 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 3 . 0 0 7 . 0 0 0 . 9 0 2 .10
C P r e s e r v a t i v e , Fragrance 9 , s .
*Ceraphyl 45
Procedure: Heat t h e water t o 5 5 C . S l o w l y add Veegum U l t r a t o t h e water
w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a t 700 rpm. I n c r e a s e t h e m i x e r speed t o 1500-1700 rpm and mix f o r 30 minu tes , m a i n t a i n i n g tempera ture a t 55C. Add g l y c e r i n and mix f o r 5 minutes . Mix B i n g r e d i e n t s and heat t o 60C. Add B t o A w h i l e m i x i n g a t 1500- 1700 r p m . Cont inue m i x i n g f o r 30 m i n u t e s . Avo id a i r entrapment. Slow m i x i n g speed t o 1000 rpm and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 35C. Add C and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Package.
Produc t C h a r a c t e r t i s t i c s : V i scos i t y : 5000-6000 cps pH: 5 . 0 + - 0 . 2
Comments:
t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.
SOURCE: R.T. V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Formula No. 448
T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s designed t o s e r v e as a g u i d e f o r
Sun Care Products 445
Un-Buffered Self Tanning Cream
R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a s o f t cream t h a t c o u l d be d ispensed f rom a f l e x i b l e t u b e o r a j a r . The f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s 5% Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) as t h e s e l f t a n n i n g i n g r e d i e n t . The f o r m u l a t i o n c o n t a i n s no amines t o r e a c t w i t h Dihydroxyacetone. The f o r m u l a t i o n a p p l i e s e a s i l y and e v e n l y and forms a modera te ly t h i c k f i l m a l l o w i n g maximum t a n c o l o r development. The f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t shou ld be s t o r e d away f rom l i g h t and a t tempera ture c o n d i t i o n s below 40C t o p r e v e n t DHA f rom degrad ing .
A . De ion ized Water Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 2 ,4 -D ich lo robenzy l A lcoho l (Myacide SP) Propylene G l y c o l USP
63.10 0.20 0.20 1 - 0 0
8 . H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( C e l l o s i z e QP-15,OOOH) 0 . 4 0
C . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 6.00 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 501) 3.00 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Lexo l GT-865) 4 . 0 0 I s o b u t y l S t e a r a t e (Lexo l BS) 2 -00 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .10
D . Dihydroxyacetone De ion ized Water
5.00 15.00
Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A" h e a t i n g t o 75-80C. Use a p r o p e l l e r mixer
f o r a g i t a t i o n . 2 . S p r i n k l e s e c t i o n "BI1 i n t o s e c t i o n " A " . I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed
t o c r e a t e a v o r t e x d u r i n g a d d i t i o n , t h e n s low t o h i g h e s t speed which does n o t produce a v o r t e x .
3 . Combine s e c t i o n "C". Heat t o 80-85C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s s low m i x i ng.
4 . When s e c t i o n s "AB" and "C" a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g - na ted tempera tures add s e c t i o n 'rC9t t o s e c t i o n s "AB" . I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed t o a h i g h speed. Begin c o o l i n g . Slow m i x i n g speed t o h i g h e s t speed p o s s i b l e t h a t w i l l n o t cause v o r t e x i n g .
5 . Us ing g loves , combine s e c t i o n "D" and mix u n t i l c l e a r . 6 . Add s e c t i o n IIDq' t o s e c t i o n s "ABC" a t 35-40C. Cont inue m i x i n g
7 . A t 33-35C a d j u s t f o r water l o s s . 8 . Mix b a t c h u n t i l i t reaches 30.
P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s : V i s c o s i t y : 20,000 cPs @ 25C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, TA I3 10 rpm)
pH: 5.0 @ 24C
and c o o l i n g .
24 hour sample
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co.: F o r m u l a t i o n 398-105-2
446 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Waterproof Sun Protection Lotion (with 8% Titanium Dioxide)
SPF 15 I n q r e d i e n t s : w
I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 5 . 0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t OS) 12.0 Cyclomethicone ( A b i l B 8839) 8 .0 C e t y l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 3 .0 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 5 M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne Wax 1 . o M i n e r a l O i l 2 . 0 Phase 0 : T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 8 . 0 Phase C : Water 6 0 . 0 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 5 Phase D : F ragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q.S. 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . Heat t o 80C t o m e l t and
2 . Add t h e T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e . D ispe rse and m i l l t h e p igment . Cool
3 . M ix Phase C . Heat t o 50C. Add t o Phase A/B s l o w l y w i t h low
4 . Cool t o 35C. Add Phase D. Homogenize.
Phase A : C e t y l Dimethicone Copo lyo l (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4
d i s p e r s e t h e waxes. Cool t o 60C.
t o 50C.
energy s t i r r e r . M a i n t a i n a m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s .
W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF 22
I n g r e d i e n t s : w Phase A : C e t y l Dimethicone Copo lyo l (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4
C e t y l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegoso f t OP) 1 . o O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t OS) 5 . 1 M i n e r a l O i l 1 . 5 Beeswax 1 .2 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 8 Phase 0 : O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 5 .0 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 5.0 Cyclomethicone (Abi 1 B 8839) 4 .4 Phase C : Water 69.2 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8 P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q.S. 1 . Heat Phase A t o 85C t o m e l t and d i s p e r s e waxes. 2 . Cool Phase A t o SOC. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a low energy
3 . R o l l e r m i l l t o reduce p a r t i c l e s i z e o f T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e . 4. Cool t o 50C. 5 . Heat Phase C t o 50C. Add Phase C w h i l e
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Formulas BJS-1-45/GRH-2-37
I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 5 .0
m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t imes .
m i x i n g . 6 . Cool t o 35C and homogenize.
Sun Care Products 447
Waterproof Sunscreen Gel (Tested SPF 30)
Dermacryl LT p r o v i d e s water r e s i s t a n c e , i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e p r o t e c t i o n and r u b - o f f r e s i s t a n c e as w e l l as improved r u b - i n p r o p e r t i e s .
I n s r e d i e n t s : Anhydrous Ethano l K l u c e l MF Dermacryl-79 F i n s o l v TN Dow Corn ing 344 F l u i d A b i l 88852 Neo He l iopan Type AV Neo He l iopan Type OS Neo He l iopan Type BB
%w/w 65.50
1 .oo 1 .oo
10.00 3.00 1 .00 7.50 5.00 6.00
Procedure: D i s s o l v e Hydroxypropyl C e l l u l o s e i n SD A l c o h o l 40. When
complete, s l o w l y s i f t i n Dermacry l -79. Combine remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s , t h e n add t o a l c o h o l m i x t u r e . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Formula 7761-133
Waterproof Sunscreen Spray Mist SPF 16 (Tested)
Dermacryl LT p r o v i d e s water r e s i s t a n c e , i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e p r o t e c t i o n and r u b - o f f r e s i s t a n c e .
I n a r e d i e n t s : Phase A: Anhydrous Ethanol De ion ized Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) Dermacryl-79
Phase B: Neo He1 iopan AV Neo He l iopan BB Neo He l iopan MA DC 344 F l u i d F i n s o l v TN V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e
Phase C: Fragrance
64.20 5.00 0 .30 1 .oo
7 .50 3 .00 3.50 5.00
10 .00 0.50
Q.S.
Procedure: Combine Phase A except Dermacry l -79. S l o w l y s i f t i n Derma-
c r y l - 7 9 . M i x u n t i l complete. Add Phase 8. Mix u n t i l complete. Add Phase C. M ix u n t i l complete and package. Formula 7172-44
SOURCE: N a t f o n a l S t a r c h and Chemfcal Co.: Suggested Formulas
448 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Waterproof Sunscreen W/O Emulsion SPF 22 (Static)
SPF 21 (Waterproo f ) I n g r e d i e n t s : %w/w Phase A : C e t y l D i methi cone Copol yo1 (and) Pol y g l y c e r y l - 4
I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 4.0 C e t y l Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 2 .0 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 5 M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne Wax 0 .5 Benzophenone-3 2 .0 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 3 . 0 Sesame O i l 1 . o I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegosof t P) 3 . 0 Cyclomethicone ( A b i l B 8839) 4 . 0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t OS) 3 .0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegosof t OP) 2 . 5 Phase B: Water 73 .4 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 5 Po lyqua te rn i um-1 0 0 . 3 Germaben I 1 0 .3 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 8OC t o
i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2. Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a low energy
m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s . 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4 . Homogenize.
Waterproof Sunscreen W/O-EmulsionSPF 15
I n g r e d i e n t s : %w/w
I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 4.0 C e t y l Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o Pol y e t h y l ene Wax 0 .5 Hydrogenated Cas to r O i l 0 . 5 O c t y l Methoxyci nnamate 3 . 0 Sesame O i l 1 . o I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegosof t P) 2 .0 Cyclomethicone ( A b i l B 8839) 4 . 0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t OS) 3 .0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegoso f t OP) 2 . 5 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (Tegoso f t M) 1 . o C12-15 A1 k y l Benzoate 2 . 5 Phase B: Water 73.9 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 5 P o l y q u a t e r n i urn-1 0 0 .3 Germaben I 1 0 . 3 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C t o
i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add 8 t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l ow energy
m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t imes . 3 . . C o o l t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f rag rance . 4. Homogenize. SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Formulas BAM-2-l/BAM-2-15
Phase A : C e t y l D imeth icone Copo lyo l (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4
Sun Care Products 449
Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion Base SPF 3.5
I n a r e d i e n t s : ?&& Phase A: C e t y l Dimeth icone Copolyo l (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4
I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5 . 0 M i n e r a l O i l 5 . 0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosof t OS) 6 . 0 Cyc lometh icone ( A b i l B 8839) 4.0 C e t y l Dimeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o I s o p r o p y l Myr i s t a t e (Tegosof t M) 4 .0 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 8 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1 . 2 Phase 8: Water 72.2 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8 P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S Phase C: Fragrance Q.S Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C
2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a low energy
3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4. Homogeni ze. F o r m u l a t i o n BJS-1-47
t o i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C.
m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s .
Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion Base SPF 3.7
I n a r e d i e n t s : Phase A: C e t y l Dimeth icone Copolyo l (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 Iso-
s t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5 .0 M i n e r a l O i l 5 . 4 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosof t OS) 6 . 4 Cyc lometh icone ( A b i l B 8839) 4 .3 C e t y l Dimeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (Tegosof t M) 4 . 3 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 8 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1 .2 Phase 8: Water 70.8 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8 P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q.S Phase C: Fragrance Q.S Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C t o
i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2. Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a low energy
m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i 1 k y appearance a t a1 1 t i m e s . 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f ragrance. 4 . Homogenize. F o r m u l a t i o n BJS-1-15 SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Suggested Formula t ions
450 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF 21
Inciredi e n t s : Phase A : C e t y l Dimethicone Copolyol (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4
I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 5 .0 M ine ra l O i l 5 .3 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosof t OS) 4 .2 Cyclomethicone ( A b i l B 8839) 4.2 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (Tegosof t M) 4 . 2 Almond O i 1 2 . 0 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0.8 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1 .2 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 3 . 0 Phase B: Water 69.3 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8 P rese rva t i ves Q.S. Phase C : Fragrance Q.S . Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 8OC t o
2. Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a low energy
3. Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m ixe r . Add f rag rance . 4. Homogeni ze.
i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C.
m ixe r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t imes .
Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF 15
I ng r e d i e n t s : Phase A : C e t y l D i methi cone Copol yo1 (Ab i 1 EM-90) 2 .0 M i n e r a l O i l 5 .9 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosof t OS) 4 .7 Cyclomethicone ( A b i l B 8839) 4 .7 C e t y l Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (Tegosof t M) 4 .7 Almond O i 1 2.0 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 8 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1.2 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 3 .0 Phase B : Water 69 .2 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.8 P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q.S. Phase C: Fragrance Q . S . Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m ix ing t o 8OC t o
i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a low energy
m ixe r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t imes . 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m ixe r . Add f rag rance . 4. Homogenize. SOURCE: Goldschmi d t Chemical Corp. : Formulas BJS-1-35/BJS-1-53
Sun Care Products 451
Waterproof W/O Sun Protection Lotion SPF 17
I n g r e d i e n t s : Phase A : C e t y l Dimethicone Copo lyo l ( A b i l EM-90) 2 .0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Tegoso f t CT) 4 . 0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegoso f t OP) 5 . 5 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 4 S y n t h e t i c Wax o r Beeswax 0 . 6 Cyclomethicone ( A b i l B 8839) 7 . 0 C e t y l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 5 .0 Benzophenone-3 1 . 5 Menthyl A n t h r a n i l a t e 3 . 0 Phase B : Water 73.9 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 6 P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S . Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C t o
2. Heat Phase 6 t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l ow energy
3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m ixe r . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4 . Homoaeni ze,
i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C.
m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s .
- Waterproof Sun Protection Lotion
(with 8% Titanium Dioxide) SPF 12
I n g r e d i e n t s : %w/w Phase A : C e t y l D i meth i cone Copol yo1 (Ab i 1 EM-90) 2 . 0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t OS) 1 3 . 6 Cyclomethicone ( A b i l B 8839) 9 . 1 C e t y l Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 3 . 0 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 5 M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne Wax 1 . o M ine ra l O i l 2 . 3 Phase B: T i tan ium D i o x i d e 8 . 0 Phase C : Water 6 0 . 0 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 5 Phase D : Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . Heat t o 80C t o m e l t and
2 . Add t h e T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e . D ispe rse and m i l l t h e p igment .
3 . M ix Phase C . Heat t o 50C. Add t o Phase A/B s l o w l y w i t h l ow
4 . Cool t o 35C. Add Phase D . Homogenize.
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp . : Formula BJS-1-43/BJS-1-33
d i s p e r s e t h e waxes. Cool t o 60C.
Cool t o 50C.
energy s t i r r e r . M a i n t a i n a m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s .
452 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Water Resistant Sunscreen
A Veegum Pro Water
B G l y c e r i n T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
C Amerscreen P C e t y l a l c o h o l S t e a r i c a c i d X X X SS4267 F l u i d I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e Synchrowax AW1 C Cerasynt MN
% B y Weiqht 1 . o
8 3 . 2
1 . 5 0 . 6
4 . 0 0 . 8 2 . 0 4 . 0 2 . 0 0 . 4 0 . 5
P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .
Procedure:
w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e shear . M i x u n t i l smooth. Add B t o A w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n u n t i l smooth. M a i n t a i n A/B a t 7 0 t o 75C; heat C t o 70 t o 75C. Add C t o A / B and m ix u n t i l c o o l .
Consi s tency : Medi um v i scos i t y 1 o t i on .
Suggested Packaging: Squeeze o r pump b o t t l e s .
Comments: Veegum PRO e f f e c t i v e l y s t a b i l i z e s t h e emuls ion
Heat t h e water t o 70 t o 75C, then s l o w l y add t h e Veegum PRO
even a t e l e v a t e d tempera tu res . T h i s l o t i o n , u s i n g s i l i c o n e f l u i d t o p r o v i d e an e m o l l i e n t water r e s i s t a n t p r o t e c t i v e b a r r i e r , i m p a r t s a non-greasy f e e l . The Amerscreen P a t 4% p r o v i d e s an e s t i m a t e d Sun P r o t e c t i o n f a c t o r o f 8 .
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n No. 418
Sun Care Products 453
Water Resistant Sunscreen
R e s u l t i n g p roduc t i s a v i scous sunscreen l o t i o n dispensed f rom a f l e x i b l e tube o r s o f t b o t t l e . The e x h i b i t s e x c e p t i o n a l water r e s i s t a n c e wh ich i s con Lexorez 100. The fo rmu la a p p l i e s e a s i l y and leaves f i l m on t h e s k i n . The sunscreen a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t Methoxycinnamate. The SPF v a l u e o f t h e f o r m u l a t i o n
A . De ion ized Water Propy lene G l y c o l USP Methylparaben (Lexgard M ) Tet rasod ium EDTA (Hamp-ene Ma4)
8 . Carbomer (Carbopol ETD 2055)
C . Sodium Hydrox ide (10% w/w)
D . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515)
which can be f o r m u l a t i o n r i bu ted by a non-greasy s O c t y l i s unknown.
&!& 71 .45
7 .50 0 .20 0 . 0 5
0 . 1 5
OS
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) C e t y l A l coho l NF Aluminum S ta rch Oc teny l succ ina te (Dry Flo-PC) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Lexo l GT-865) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (and) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e
Tocopherol (Copherol F-1300) Propylparaben (Lexgard P) O c t y l Methoxyci nnamate ( E s c a l o l 557) G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer
(and) I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e (Lexo l 3975)
(Lexorez 100)
4.00 1 - 0 0 0.50 1 - 0 0 3.00
1 - 0 0 0 . 0 5 0 .10 8 . 0 0
2 * 00
Procedure: 1. Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n phase "A" and hea t t o 75-8OC.
A g i t a t e a t low speed. 2 . Slow ly add phase "B" t o phase "A" . A g i t a t e a t a h i g h e r speed
u n t i l a l l Carbomer i s f u l l y d i spe rsed . 3 . Combine phase "D" i n a separa te vesse l and heat t o 80-85C.
Add phase "0" t o phase "AB". M i x f o r f i v e minu tes and s t a r t t o c o o l .
4 . A t 45C a d j u s t f o r water l o s s . Mix u n t i l homogeneous. Then a d j u s t f o r v i s c o s i t y u s i n g 10% NaOH (9,500t-500 cps u s i n g s p i n d l e #6 @ 50rpm, 25C). The f i n a l p roduc t has a pH o f app rox ima te l y 6 .0 .
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co.: Fo rmu la t i on 383-208
454 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W/O SPF15 Sunscreen with Ajidew and Eldew
I n g r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: %_by Weight P a r t A : D i - (Chol e s t e r y l , behenyl , o c t y l d o d e c y l ) N-Lauroy l -L -g lu tamic a c i d es ter /E ldew CL-301 Oc ty ldodecy l Neopentanoate/Elefac 1-205 D i m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) T r i m e t h y l s i l o x y s i 1 icate/Dow Corn ing 593 Propy lparaben Methylparaben Phenoxyethanol/Emeressence 1160 Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Parsol MCX P a r t 8 : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone
P a r t C : De ion ized Water Sodium C h l o r i d e Sodi urn P C A / A j i dew N-50 P a r t i a l l y Deace ty la ted C h i t i n ( 1 .O%)/Marine Dew Propy lene G l y c o l
Copol yo1 (and) Hexyl Laura te /Ab i 1 WE09
2 .00 10.00 0 .50 0.05 0.15 0 .60 4.00 7 . 5 0
5 . 0 0
61.40 0 .80 1 . o o 2.00 5 . 0 0
Procedure : Pre-melt p a r t A a t 50 degrees Cen t ig rade . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . Premix p a r t C u n t i l homogeneous. S low ly add p a r t C i n t o p a r t A and B m i x t u r e w i t h h i g h shear m i x i n g .
Appearance: White, smooth, sh iny l o t i o n . pH: 6 .0 -6 .5 V i s c o s i t y : 10,000-20,000 (RVT#6 I3 lOrpm @ 25 degrees C)
Sunscreen Lip Balm with Eldew
I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: % by Weiqht P a r t A : Carnauba/Carnauba Wax #1 Ye l l ow 4 .00 Ozoker i te /Ozoker i t e Wax JH1680 4.00
Propylparaben 0 .15 Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroy l Glutamate/
P a r t B: Cas tor O i l 26.55 PPG-3 Hydrogenated Castor O i l / H e t e s t e r HCP 15.00 G l y c e r y l T r i a c e t y l Hydroxysteara te /Hetes ter HCA 15.00 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Parsol MCX 7 .50 Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 5 .00
Tocopheryl Ace ta te /V i tam in E Ace ta te 0 .60 P a r t C :
Procedure:
a l l s o l i d s a r e comp le te l y d i s s o l v e d . Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . Mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 65 degrees Cen t ig rade . Add P a r t C . M ix w e l l . F i l l . SOURCE: Ajinornoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
S y n t h e t i c Beeswax/Synthet ic Beeswax JH-1508 10.00
Eldew CL-301 10.00
O c t y l Sal i cy1 a te /Uv i n u l 0-1 8 2 . 0 0
B i s a b o l o l ( S y n t h e t i c ) 0.20
Heat P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 80 degrees Cen t ig rade . Mix u n t i l
Sun Care Products 455
W/O SPF 15 Sunscreen with Ajidew and Eldew
I n a r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: % by W e i a P a r t A : O i ( C h o l e s t e r y l , behenyl , o c t y l d e d e c y l ) N-Lauroyl -L-
Oc ty ldodecy l Neopentanoate/Elefac 1-205 Oimethicone(and)Trimethylsiloxysilicate/Qow Corn ing 593 Propylparaben Methylparaben Phenoxyethanol/Emeressence 1 160 Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Parsol MCX
P a r t B: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Oimethicone
g l u t a m i c a c i d es te r /E ldew CL-301
Copo lyo l (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e / A b i l WE09
P a r t C : De ion ized Water Sodium C h l o r i d e Sodium PCA/Ajidew N-50 P a r t i a l l y Q e a c e t y l a t e d C h i t i n ( 1 .O%)/Marine Dew Propy l ene G1 y c o l
Procedure:
2 .00 10.00 0 . 5 0 0.05 0 . 1 5 0.60 4.00 7 . 5 0
5 .00
61.40 0 . 8 0 1 . o o 2 .00 5 .00
Pre-melt p a r t A a t 50 degrees Cen t ig rade . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A. Premix p a r t C u n t i l homogeneous. S low ly add p a r t C i n t o p a r t A and B m i x t u r e w i t h h i g h shear m i x i n g .
Appearance: Whi te , smooth, sh iny l o t i o n pH: 6 .0 -6 .5 V i s c o s i t y : 10,000-20,000 (RVT #6 @ 10 rpm @ 25 degrees C )
Procedure:
a l l s o l i d s a r e comp le te l y d i s s o l v e d . Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . Mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 65 degrees Cen t ig rade . Add P a r t C . M ix w e l l . F i l l .
SOURCE: Aj inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on
Heat P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 80 degrees Cen t ig rade . Mix u n t i l
456 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF-18
I n s r e d i e n t s : %w/w Phase A : C e t y l Dimethicone Copo lyo l (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4
I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5 . 0 C e t y l Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 4 . 5
Cyclomethicone ( A b i l B 8839) 5 . 5 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s (Tegosof t CT) 3.0
Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 4 S y n t h e t i c Wax 0 . 6 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 5 . 0
Menthy l A n t h r a n i l a t e 3 . 0 Phase B : Water 69 .7 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8 P r e s e r v a t i ves Q . S Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 85C t o
i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a low energy
m i x e r , M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s . 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4 . Homogenize. Formula GRH-2-31
Benzophenone-3 1 . 5
W/O Sunscreen LotionSPF-17
I n s r e d i e n t s : %w/w Phase A : C e t y l D i meth i cone Copol yo1 (and) Pol y g l y c e r y l - 4 -
I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5 . 0 C e t y l Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 9814) 3 . 0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosof t OS) 1 2 . 0 Cyclomethicone ( A b i l 8 8839) 8 . 0 M i n e r a l O i l 2 . 0 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 5 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1 . o Phase B : T i tan; um D i o x i d e 8 . 0 Phase C : Water 59 .7 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8 P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A t o 85C t o m e l t and d i s p e r s e waxes. 2 . Cool Phase A t o 50C. Add 8 t o A s l o w l y w i t h a low energy
3 . R o l l e r m i l l t o reduce p a r t i c l e s i z e o f T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e . 4 . Cool t o 50C. 5 . Heat Phase C t o 50C. Add Phase C w h i l e m i x i n g . 6 . Cool t o 35C and homogenize. Formula GRH-2-33 SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
m i x e r , M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s .
458 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Formula: 1 -Menthol SDA 39C Tween 60 A loe M o i s t
Aloe Medicated Gel With Alcohol (SDA 39C)
% 6 . 0 0 8.00 3.00
83.00
Per 20009 120.00 160.00 60.00
1660.00
Procedure ( W i t h a l c o h o l , SDA 39C): 1. Add A loe M o i s t t o l a r g e beaker . F i t w i t h s t i r r e r . 2 . I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r , m ix t h e menthol , a l c o h o l and Tween
3. W i t h slow-medium a g i t a t i o n add t h e m i x t u r e t o t h e A loe M o i s t 4. S t i r u n t i l a m i l k y w h i t e and homogeneous. 5 . F i l l i n t o HDPE j a r s .
and s t i r u n t i l c l e a r .
Aloe Medicated Gel Without Alcohol
Formula: 1 -Menthol Tween 60 A l o e M o i s t 3% Carbopol 940 TEA FDC Ye l low #5, 1% FDC B lue #1, 1%
% 3.00
12 .00 79.70
5 .00 0.30
qs qs
Per 759 2.259 9 . oog
59.789 3.759
0.2259 2 drops 2 drops
Procedure (Wi thout a l c o h o l ) : 1 . M i x 1-menthol and Tween 60 t o g e t h e r and heat t o about 45C. 2 . Heat A l o e M o i s t t o 55-58C - add c o l o r s . 3 . Add t h e menthol/Tween mix t o t h e A l o e M o i s t w i t h s t i r r i n g . 4 . Add t h e 3% Carbopol 940 and mix w e l l . 5. Add t h e TEA and mix w e l l , 6 . Cool t o room temp w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n .
SOURCE: T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Miscellaneous 459
Cetylpyridinium Chloride Mouthwash
I n a r e d i en ts : A C e t y l p y r i d i n i u m c h l o r i d e , NF
C i t r i c Ac id , USP Peppermint o i 1, USP Euca lyp tus o i 1 , NF Clove o i l , USP Tween 60 A l c o h o l , USP
B *Co lor Sorbo, S o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n , USP Water, d e i o n i z e d
w 0.10 0.10 0.07 0 . 0 2 0.05 0.30
10 .00
20.00 69.36
* q . s . these i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: D i s s o l v e t h e c e t y l p y r i d i n i u m c h l o r i d e and c i t r i c a c i d i n
w a t e r . Add t h e peppermint o i l , e u c a l y p t u s o i l and c l o v e o i l t o t h e Tween 20. Add t h e a l c o h o l s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n and add t h e water m i x t u r e . Add t h e Sorbo, water and c o l o r t o make t h e d e s i r e d volume.
Spearmint Mouthwash
I n n r e d i e n t s : A Tween 60, p o l y s o r b a t e 60
Spearmi n t f 1 avor o i 1
6 A r l a s o l v e D M I Ethanol (190 p r o o f )
Sodi um s a c c h a r i n USP Sodi um benzoate
C Water
w 0.32 0 . 2 4
10.00 10 .00
69.14 0.10 0.20
D Sorbo, 70% s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n 10.00
Procedure:
w e l l . Add (D) t o ( C ) , mix w e l l . Add (CD) t o (AB) and mix w e l l . Formula PC 8207
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Formula t ions
Mix (A) w e l l . Mix (B) w e l l . Add (B) t o (A) , mix w e l l . M ix ( C )
460 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Clear Gel without DEA
produce a mic roemuls ion g e l which e x h i b i t s c l a r i t y and possesses a manageable s e t p o i n t (80C), u s i n g po tass ium hyd rox ide i n p l a c e o f t h e DEA. Lower e t h o x y l a t e s l i k e t h e Volpos and Crodafoses used he re a r e t h e e m u l s i f i e r s o f c h o i c e f o r c l e a r ge l f o r m u l a t i o n s , s i nce l e s s e t h o x y l a t e d ma te r i a1 s have been shown t o cause l e s s i r r i t a t i o n . The power fu l e m u l s i f y i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t hese e s t e r s y i e l d an ex t reme ly e f f i c i e n t system i n which a 1 : l r a t i o o f e m u 1 s i f i e r : o i l c o n c e n t r a t i o n i s ach ieved - a ba lance t h a t minim- i z e s i r r i t a t i o n p o t e n t i a l and o p t i m i z e s ge l f o r m a t i o n . I n n r e d i e n t s : % P a r t A : Dei o n i zed Water 52.6 Propy lene G l y c o l 12 .0 P a r t 8 : Volpo 3 (O le th -3 ) 7 .0 Volpo 5 (O le th -5 ) 4 . 0 Crodafos N3A (O le th -3 Phosphate) 2.0 Crodafos N l O A (O le th -10 Phosphate) 4 . 0 M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) 17.0 P a r t C: KOH (25% Aq. S o l n . ) 1 . 4 Procedure:
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 90-95C. Add P a r t C t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Add P a r t A/C t o P a r t 0 w i t h m i x i n g u s i n g a p r o p e l l e r b l a d e m i x e r . Avo id a e r a t i o n as much as p o s s i b l e . Cool t o des i r e d f i 11 tempera ture , c o o l i n g a t a PC/mi n r a t e . Set p o i n t app rox ima te l y 80C.
Formula CG-25
T h i s fo rmu la c o n t a i n s no d ie thano lamine , y e t i s a b l e t o
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and hea t t o 90-Q5C.
E m u 1 s i f i e r : O i l R a t i o : 1 : l Set P o i n t : 80C
Silicone Emulsion
T h i s p roduc t uese I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS t o fo rm a s t a b l e emuls ion ( 1 month @ 50C), s p e c i f i c a l l y w i t h F l u i d 200 (200 c s ) b u t a l s o s u i t a b l e f o r o t h e r s i l i c o n e f l u i d s , f o r V o l a t i l e S i 1 i cone and d i meth i cone I I n a r e d i e n t s : % P a r t A: Dei o n i zed Water 72.0 I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS (Behentr imoniurn M e t h o s u l f a t e
(and) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 7 .0 S i 1 i cone F1 u i d (2OOcps) 20.0 P a r t 0 : Germaben I1 1 .o Procedure:
Cool t o 40C w i t h m i x i n g and add P a r t B. Cool w i t h m i x i n g t o des i r e d f i 11 tempera ture . Formula SC-231 SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and hea t t o 80-85C.
Miscellaneous 461
Clear Ringing Gel
I n a r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i 1, Carna t ion brand
B r i j 93 A r l aso l ve 200L
B Propy lene g l y c o l Sorbo Water, d e i o n i z e d
w 11 . o o 6 .00
27.80
5 .00 7 . 0 0
43.20
Procedure:
moderate s t i r r i n g . Remove f rom heat and c o n t i n u e t o s t i r as t h e m i x t u r e c o o l s . When t h e m i x t u r e t u r n s c l e a r (about 65C) pour i n t o tubes o r j a r s .
Heat (A) t o 9OC and (E) t o 95C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) w i t h
Clear Ringing Gel
I n a r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E
M i n e r a l o i 1, Carna t ion brand B r i j 93 A r l a s o l v e 200L
B Propy lene g l y c o l Sorbo Water, d e i o n i z e d
w 5.00 6.00 6.00 27.80
5 .00 7.00
43.20
Procedure: Heat (A) t o 9OC and ( 6 ) t o 95C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) w i t h moderate
s t i r r i n g . Remove f rom heat and c o n t i n u e t o s t i r as t h e m i x t u r e c o o l s . When t h e m i x t u r e t u r n s c l e a r (about 65C) pour i n t o tubes o r j a r s . Formula PC 8180
Clear Gel Base
I n a r e d i e n t s : A r l aso l ve DMI Hyroxypropy l c e l l u l ose
W W 96,OO
4.00
Procedure: S low ly s p r i n k l e t h e hydroxypropy l c e l l u l o s e i n t h e A r l a s o l v e
DMI as you r a p i d l y a g i t a t e . S t i r u n t i l c l e a r . A ge l w i l l f o rm upon s t a n d i n g . Gel s t r e n g t h v a r i e s w i t h t h i c k e n e r c o n c e n t r a t i o n A c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s shou ld be d i s s o l v e d i n A r l a s o l v e D M I p r i o r t o a d d i t i o n o f hyd roxyp ropy l c e l l u l o s e .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
462 Cosmetic and Toile@ Formulations
Cream Sachet
I n a r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 165
Spermaceti Ce ty l a l c o h o l I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e
Water, d e i on i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e
0 A t l a s G-2162
C Fragrance
q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s
%w/w 1 6 . 0 0
5 .00 5 .00 3 .00 2 . 0 0
59.00
1 0 . 0 0
Procedure:
moderate b u t thorough a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 45C. S t i r u n t i l room tempera ture and package.
Heat (A) t o 75C. Heat ( € 3 ) t o 77C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h
Liquid Cologne
I n g r e d i e n t s : Perfume o i l Tween 20 Water * P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q . s . t hese i ngred i en ts
%w/w 5 . 0 0
21 . 5 0 73,50
Procedure:
t h e water and add p r e s e r v a t i v e . S t i r u n t i l a c l e a r p roduc t r e s u l t s .
Mix t h e perfume o i l and Tween 2 0 . S low ly add t h i s m i x t u r e t o
Solid Cologne
I n q r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed 5 . 0 0
Sorbo 2 .00 A1 coho1 I SD-40 83.00
B Sodium hyd rox ide t o s a p o n i f y t h e 5% s t e a r i c a c i d Water, d e i o n i z e d 5 . 0 0
C Perfume o i l 5 .00
Procedure:
Add (C) a t 55-6OC. Pour i n t o heated molds. Cool s l o w l y t o p reven t f o r m a t i o n of a i r pockets and t o ach ieve t h e g r e a t e s t t r a n s l u c e n c y . Unmold, wrap i n f o i l and package i n a i r t i g h t c o n t a i n e r s .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat ( A ) t o 65C and ( B ) t o 70C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h a g i t a t i o n .
Miscellaneous 463
High-Luster Toothpaste
I n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : ( 1 ) S o r b i t o l (70% s o l u t i o n ) ( 2 ) De ion ized Water P a r t 0: ( 3 ) K a o p o l i t e SF ( 4 ) D i c a l c i um Phosphate D i h y d r a t e ( 5 ) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (6) Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e (medium v i s c o s i t y ) ( 7 ) Tr imagnesi um Phosphate ( 8 ) K o r t h i x H (9) Sodi um Sacchar i n (10)Methy l Paraben ( 1 1 )Propy l Paraben P a r t C : ( 1 2 ) F l a v o r i n g O i l
% bv Wei a h t
30.00 17.52
24.25 24.25
2 .00 0.80 0.50 0.25 0 . 2 0 0 .18 0.05
q . s .
Procedure: M i x ( 1 ) and ( 2 ) . I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r , t h o r o u g h l y d r y -
b l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s ( 3 ) th rough ( 1 1 ) . Add P a r t 8 s l o w l y t o P a r t A . M ix t h o r o u g h l y . Add P a r t C, m i l l t w i c e and deaera te .
each p r o d u c t used. F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f
Denture Cleaner
I n g r e d i e n t s : ( 1 ) De ion ized Water ( 2 ) K o r t h i x H ( 3 ) Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e (medium v i s c o s i t y ) ( 4 ) S o r b i t o l (70% s o l u t i o n ) ( 5 ) G l y c e r i n (6) Sodi urn Sacchar in ( 7 ) K a o p o l i t e 1147 ( 8 ) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 9 ) F l a v o r , P r e s e r v a t i v e & C o l o r a n t
% bv Weiaht 30.8
1 .5 0 . 5
10.0 10.0
0 .2 45.0
2.0 q . s .
Procedure:
a t h i g h shear u n t i l w e l l d i s p e r s e d . Reduce speed and add ( 4 ) , (51, and ( 6 ) . S l o w l y add ( 7 ) and c o n t i n u e t o mix u n t i l w e l l d ispersed. Then add ( 8 ) . Add (9) and m i l l t w i c e and deaera te .
F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used.
SOURCE: K a o p o l f t e , I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions
Mix ( 2 ) i n t o ( 1 ) w i t h h i g h shear . Add ( 3 ) and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g
464 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hydrophilic O/W Ointment Base
I n g r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
8 Propylene g l y c o l P e t r o l a t u m
M y r j 52 Methy l paraben & p r o p y l paraben Water, d e i o n i zed
Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h Procedure:
a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t .
Emollient Anhydrous Ointment
I n g r e d i e n t s :
Ar lamol E A r l a c e l 186 Procedure:
t empera tu re .
G-1726
Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l l i q u i d and s t i r u n t i l room
W/O Ointment Base
I n g r e d i e n t s : P e t r o l a t u m A r l a c e l 83, s o r b i t a n sesqu Procedure:
Heat (A) t o 70C and ( B ) moderate, b u t t ho rough a g i
o l e a t e
t o 72C. Add (B) a t i o n . S t i r u n t
9gdJvJ 25.00 25.00 12.00
5 .00 0 . 4 0
32.60
w 10.00 40 .00 50.00
?&bJ/J 5 4 . 0 0
6 .00
t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h 1 room tempera tu re .
Washable Anhydrous Base
I n g r e d i e n t s : 9gdJvJ P e t r o l a t u m 95.00 Tween 61 o r Tween 81 o r M y r j 52 5.00 Procedure:
t empera tu re . Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l l i q u i d and s t i r u n t i l room
Washable Anhydrous Base
I n g r e d i e n t s : H y d r o p h i l i c Pe t ro la tum, Tween 60 Procedure:
Heat a1 1 i n g r e d i e n t s tempera tu re .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s
U.S.P.
u n t i l l i q u i d and
Suggested Formu
50.00 50.00
s t i r u n t i l room
a t i ons
Miscellaneous 465
Jojoba Massage Oil
M i n e r a l O i l I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e Coconut O i l #76 Jo joba O i l Almond O i 1 Sweet Acet u 1 an Glucam P-20 Dow Corni ng S i 1 i cone V i t a m i n E
344
E 61.5 24.0 5.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 1 . o 2.0 0.5
Fragrance q . s .
Procedure: Load a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e . Warm
s l i g h t l y u n t i l c l e a r w i t h a g i t a t i o n , add Fragrance and package.
Massage Oil
S o l u l a n P B 5 Dow Corn ing S i . l i c o n e #344 Emerest 2314 Drakeol #9 Coconut O i l Esca lo l 507 Ross Jo joba O i 1 Perfume Nova Rome DE 51
% 3.0 16.0 13.0 31 .O 31 .O 3.0 3.0 q . s .
Procedure:
under a g i t a t i o n and package.
SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Load a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a v e s s e l . Warm s l i g h t l y u n t i l c l e a r
466 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Micro-Emulsions with Aloe Vera and d-Limonene
The f o l 1 owing fo rmulas a r e c l e a r , m i croemul s i ons o f d -L i monene and A l o e Vera. They r e p r e s e n t t h e range o f d-Limonene and A l o e Vera c o n c e n t r a t i o n s commonly used as degreas ing s o l v e n t c l e a n e r s . These f o r m u l a s a r e g e n e r a l l y used by d i l u t i n g i n water (1->16 o z . / g a l l o n depending on t h e use r e q u i r e m e n t s ) . The formulas a r e c l e a r and e x h i b i t a bloom e f f e c t upon d i l u t i o n .
d - L i monene Monamul se DL-1 273v Isopropano l Water A l o e Vera Gel ( T e r r y AG002)
d -L i monene Monamulse DL-1273 Isopropano l Water A l o e Vera Gel ( T e r r y AG002)
d -L i monene Monamulse DL-1273 A l o e Vera Gel ( T e r r y AG002)
%w/w 10.0 18.0 10 .0 42.0 20 .0
?&& 35.0 28.0
5 . 0 1 2 . 0 20 .0
w 65.0 23.0 12.0
Procedure:
c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d and o f un i fo rm c o n s i s t e n c y . Add t h e Iso- propano l , m i x i n g u n t i l homogeneous. Pre-mix A l o e Vera Gel w i t h w a t e r . S l o w l y add t o b a t c h w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m .
SOURCE: T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions
I n a l l cases, mix Monamulse DL-1273 w i t h d-Limonene u n t i l
Miscellaneous 467
Modified Petrolatum
I nnred i e n t s : Whi te p e t r o l a t u m USP Ar lamol ISML, I s o s o r b i d e monolaurate G-695, g l y c e r o l monooleate
w 75.00 20.00
5.00
Procedure: Add phase (A) t o g e t h e r and s t i r w i t h s l i g h t h e a t . Add phase
(B) and heat t o 8OC and s t i r i n phase (C) . Cool w h i l e s t i r r i n g and add phase ( D ) . Formula CP 1051
Modified Petrolatum
I n a r e d i e n t s : Pet ro la tum, Whi te P r o t o p e t Span 40, s o r b i t a n monopalmi ta te A r l a t o n e G, PEG 25 hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l
Procedure:
Formula CP 1095 M e l t and m i x .
Modified Petrolatum
I n n r e d i e n t s : Pet ro la tum, Whi te P r o t o p e t Span 40, s o r b i t a n monopalmi ta te A r l a t o n e G, PEG 25 hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l
Procedure: M e l t and mix
Formula CP 1096
Washable Oil
I n q r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E
A t l a s 673500
w 60.00 24.00 16.00
w 50.00 30.00 20.00
w 71.40 14.30
B B r i j 30 9.50
C Dow Corn ing 344 cyc lometh icone 4 . 8 0
Procedure:
and mix we1 1 . Formula CP 1117
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Mix (8 ) w e l l , Add ( 8 ) t o (A) and mix w e l l . Add (C) t o (AB)
468 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Ointment Base
I n q r e d i e n t s : A C e t y l a l c o h o l
B Sorbo
A r l a c e l 165
Water, d e i o n i zed
C A r l a s o l v e D M I
D * P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
7 . 0 0 5 .03
5 . 0 0 73 .00
10.00
Procedure:
good a g i t a t i o n and add (C) a t 35C and mix t h o r o u g h l y . Add ( D ) . Replace water l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Package.
Heat (A) t o 72C and (B) t o 75C. Add (8) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h
Anhydrous Ointment
I n a r e d i e n t s : Ar lamol ISML, i s o s o r b i d e monolaurate A r l ace1 186, g l y c e r o l monool ea te Pe t ro la tum, P e r f e c t a USP *Perfume o r a c t i v e s
*q . s . t hese i ngred i e n t s .
Procedure: Add phase (A) t o g e t h e r and s t i r w i t h s l i g h t
( 6 ) and hea t t o 80C and s t i r i n phase ( C ) . Coo and add phase (D) .
heat wh i
Zinc Oxide Ointment-Anhydrous
I n q r e d i e n t s : A r l amol ISML, i sosorb i de mono1 a u r a t e A r l a c e l 186, g l y c e r o l monooleate Pet ro la tum, P e r f e c t a USP Z i n c ox ide , USP *Perfume o r a c t i v e s
w 25.00
7 . 0 0 68 .00
Add phase e s t i r r i n g
%m 20.00
5 .60 5 4 - 4 0 20 .00
Procedure: Add phase ( A ) t o g e t h e r and s t i r w i t h s l i g h t hea t . Add phase
(B) and hea t t o 80C and s t i r i n phase (C) . Cool w h i l e s t i r r i n g and add phase ( D ) . Formula CP 1035
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Miscellaneous 469
O/W Ointment Base
I n g r e d i e n t s : %* A Pe t ro la tum 15.00
M i n e r a l o i l 15.00 Spermaceti 5 .00 A r l a c e l 40, s o r b i t a n monopalmitate 5.00 Tween 40, po l yoxye thy lene s o r b i t a n monopalmi t a t e 5 .00
B Water, d e i o n i z e d 55.00 * P r e s e r v a t i v e *q. s . t hese i ngred i e n t s .
Procedure:
moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add water l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat (B) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h
O/W Ointment Base
I n s r e d i e n t s : w A C e t y l a l c o h o l 20.00
M i n e r a l o i l 20.00 A r l ace1 80, s o r b i t a n monool e a t e 0 . 5 0 Tween 80, po l yoxye thy lene s o r b i t a n monooleate 4.50
B Water de i o n i zed 55 .00 * P r e s e r v a t i v e * q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (B) t o 72C. Add (B) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h Procedure:
moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add water l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
O/W Ointment Base
I n q r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r y l a l c o h o l 15.00
Beeswax 5.00 M i n e r a l o i l 15.00 A r l a c e l 80, s o r b i t a n monooleate 1.25
0 Water, d e i o n i zed 60.00 Tween 80, po l yoxye thy lene s o r b i t a n monooleate 3.75
* P r e s e r v a t i v e *a. s . these i ngred i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat ( A )
moderate s t evapora t i on
SOURCE: IC1
t o 70C. Heat (8 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add water l o s t due t o
S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
470 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Oil-In-Water-In-Silicone Emulsion
O i 1 -i n-water Emu1 s i on Phase: Water P a n t e t h i n e (80% aq. s o l . ) Methy lparaben Carbomer 940 G l y c e r i n e Sodium a1 k y l p o l y e t h e r s u l f o n a t e B lando l M i n e r a l O i l C h o l e s t e r o l C e t y l p a l m i t a t e PEG-22 dodecyl g l y c o l copolymer E thy lpa raben Propylparaben
S i 1 i cone Phase : Cyclomethicone/dimethicone (9O: lO) Cyclomethicone/dimethiconol (13:87) Cyc lometh icone Phenyld imeth icone Pare th 15-3 Octy lmethoxyc innamate Benzophenone C12-15 a1 coho1 s benzoate C o l o r Fragrance
Protein-Lecithin Complex Emulsion
C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m C e t y l a l c o h o l G l y c e r y l monostearate C a s e i n - l e c i t h i n complex Propylene g l y c o l Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
61 .54% 0 . 1 0 0 . 2 0 0 .10 2.50 1 . 2 5 1 .75 1 . o o 0 .20 0 .20 0 .10 0 .15
9 .50 5 .00 3 .00 1 . o o 2 .00 7.00 0 .50 2 .85 0 . 0 3 0 .03
45.00% 10.00
1 .50 3 .00 3 .00 5 .00 0 . 5 0
qs q s t o 1 0 0 . 0
Skin Growth Accelerator
5-Methoxy-6,7-methylenedioxy-Isoflavone-4-O-B-D-gluc-
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l 18.00 Lanol i n 20.00 Po lyoxye thy lene monooleate 0 . 2 5 G l y c e r y l monostearate 0.25 P r o t o p e t 1 S P e t r o l a t u m 40.00 Water 16.50
SOURCE: Wi t co Corp . : Pe t ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested
o s i de 5.00%
F o r m u l a t i o n s
Miscellaneous 471
Pharmaceutical Cream Base
I n g r e d i e n t s : %w/w A S t e a r y l A l coho l 6 . 0 0
A r l a c e l 165 6 . 0 0 6 Sorbo, S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n USP 5 . 0 0
Water 83 .00
Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (6) t o 72C. Add (6) t o (A) w i t h a g i t a - Procedure:
t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t .
Pharmaceutical Cream Base
I n g r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r i c Ac id 1 0 . 0 0
S t e a r y l A l coho l 5 . 0 0 Tween 60 3 . 0 0 Span 60 1 .oo
6 Water 81 -00 Procedure:
t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t . Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (6) t o 72C. Add (6) t o (A) w i t h a g i t a -
Pharmaceutical Cream Base
I n q r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r i c A c i d 10 .00
S t e a r y l A1 coho1 5 .00 Corn O i l 3 . 0 0 I s o p r o p y l Myr i s t a t e 2 . o o M y r j 52 3 .00 Span 60 2.00
6 Sorbo, S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n USP 5 .00 Water 70.00
Procedure: Hear (A) t o 70C. Heat (6) t o 72C. Add (6) t o (A) w i t h a g i t a -
t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t .
Pharmaceutical Ointment Base
I n q r e d i e n t s : A C e t y l A l coho l 20 .00
Corn O i l 20 .00 Tween 80 4 . 5 0 Span 80 0 . 5 0
6 Water 55.00 Procedure:
t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t .
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add (6) t o (A) w i t h a g i t a -
472 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Washable Oil
I n g r e d i e n t s : Ar lamol S3 B r i j 30 A r l a t o n e T
Procedure:
Formula CP 1111 M i x w e l l a t room tempera ture ,
Washable Oil
I n q r e d i e n t s : Ar lamol E A t l a s G73500
%U 50.00 50.00
Procedure:
Fromula CP 1112 Mix w e l l a t room tempera ture ,
Washable Oil
I n q r e d i e n t s : Ar lamol S3 I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e B r i j 93 B r i j 30 Water
Procedure:
Formula CP 1115 M i x w e l l a t room tempera ture .
Washable Oil
I n a r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E
B B r i j 30 C Dow Corn ing 344 cyc lometh icone
A t l a s G73500
?&yy 80% 00 10.00 10.00
w 60.00 30.00
5.00 4 . 6 0 0.40
%fl 50.00 25.00 20.00
5 .00
Procedure:
and mix w e l l . Formula CP 1116
Mix (B) w e l l . Add (6 ) t o ( A ) and mix w e l l . Add (C) t o (AB)
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Formulat ions
Miscellaneous 473
Washable Oil
I n a r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E
B B r i j 30 Water
Procedure:
Formula CP 1109 Mix (B ) we1 1 . Add (B) t o (A) and mix w e l l .
Washable Oil
I n s r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E
B A r l a c e l 186 A r l a t o n e T
%U 79 I 50
2 0 . 0 0 0.50
y#fy 70.00
10.00 2 0 . 0 0
Procedure:
t o g e t h e r a t room tempera ture and s t i r w e l l . Formula CP 1110
Mix ( 8 ) w e l l , u s i n g heat t o c l a r i f y t h e A r l a c e l 186. Mix (A&B)
Washable Oil
I n s r e d i e n t s : Ar lamol E A r l a c e l 186 B r i j 93
Procedure:
Formula CP 1113 Mix w e l l a t room tempera ture .
Washable Oil
I n a r e d i e n t s : Ar lamol E I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e B r i j 93
Procedure:
Formula CP 1114
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
M i x w e l l a t room tempera ture .
y#fy 65.00 15.00 20.00
y&& 60.00 30.00 10.00
474 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Wound Healing Accelerator
P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e g l y c o l monostearate G l y c e r y l monostearate S t e a r i c a c i d Behenyl a l c o h o l B lando l M i n e r a l O i l G l y c e r y l t r i o c t a n o a t e Koj i c a c i d d i pa lmi t a t e P r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e 1,3 B u t y l e n e g l y c o l A1 1 a n t o i n Water
Massage Gel
2-Hexadecyl phosphate a r g i n i n e s a l t Water G l y c e r i n D i p r o p y l ene g l y c o l I s o s t e a r y l d i g l y c e r i d e C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i l C e t y l a l c o h o l S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e
2 .00% 5 . 0 0 5 .00 1 . o o 1 . o o 5 . 0 0 2 . 0 0
qs 5 . 0 0 0 . 1 0
qs t o 1 0 0 . 0 0
1.20% 3.60
14.00 8 .70
36.00 35.50
0 . 4 0 0.60
9 , s . 9 , s .
Petrolatum Stick
T h i s h i g h p e t r o l a t u m s t i c k o f f e r s t h e w e l l known b e n e f i t s o f p e t r o l a t u m i n an easy t o use form.
P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m Syncrowax HGLC Syncrowax ERCL
85.0% 12 .0
3 . 0
Procedure: Combine t h e p e t r o l a t u m and t h e syncrowaxes. M ix w h i l e h e a t i n g
t o 80C. Cool t o 65-701) and p o u r . C h i l l t h e molds o r t h e cases t o 40C p r i o r t o p o u r i n g .
SOURCE: Wi tco Corp . : P e t r o l a t u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Miscellaneous 475
W/O Ointment Base
I n n r e d i e n t s : A M ine ra l o i l
Beeswax Lanol i n A r l a c e l 83, s o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e
B Borax Water, de i o n i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
w 5 0 . 0 0 1 0 . 0 0
3 .10 1 . o o
0 .70 35.20
Procedure:
moderate, b u t thorough a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l room tempera tu re . Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h
W/O Ointment Base
I n g r e d i e n t s : A Pe t ro la tum
M i n e r a l o i l Beeswax A r l ace1 83, s o r b i t a n sesqu io l ea te
B Water, d e i o n i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e
w 40.00 15 .00 4.00 6.00
35.00
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
Heat (A) t o 70C and (B) t o 72C. Add (B) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h Procedure:
moderate, b u t thorough a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l room tempera tu re .
W/O Ointment Base
I nqred i en t s : A Pe t ro la tum
A r l a c e l 83, s o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e
B Water, d i s t i l l e d * P r e s e r v a t i v e
w 5 4 . 0 0
6 .00
40.00
* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure:
moderate, b u t thorough a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l room tempera tu re .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons
Heat (A) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add (B) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h
Trade-Named Raw Materials 477
RAW MATERIALS
A b i l AV20
A b i l 88839
A b i l B8851
A b i l 88852
A b i l 89950
A b i l B88183
A b i l EM-90
Abi 1 WE09
A b i l OSW12
A b i l Quat 3270
A b i l Quat 3272
A b i l Quat 3474
A b i l S201
A b i l Wax 2434
A b i l Wax 9800
Abi 1 Wax 9801
A b i l Wax 9809
Abi 1 Wax 9814
Abi 1 WE-09
A b i l 100
A b i l 350
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Phenyl t r i m e t h i c o n e
Cyclomethicone
D i meth i cone copo l yo1
D i meth i cone copo l yo1
D i meth i cone p r o p y l PG b e t a i ne
D i meth i cone copo l yo1
C e t y l d imeth icone c o p o l y o l
P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l D i meth i cone Copolyo l (and) Hexyl Laura te
Cyclomethicone (and) Dimeth- i c o n o l (and) Dimeth icone
Q u a t e r n i um-80
Quatern i um-80
Quaternium-80
D i meth i cone/Sodi um PG Propy l Dimeth icone T h i o s u l f a t e Copolymer
S tearoxy d imeth icone
S t e a r y l
C e t y l d
S t e a r y l
C e t y l d
d imeth icone
meth i cone
meth icone
meth icone
C e t y l D i meth i cone Copol yo1 (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r - a t e (and) Hexyl Laura te
SOURCE
Goldschmidt
Go1 dschmi d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Goldschmidt
Go1 dschmi d t
Goldschrni d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Goldschmidt
Goldschmi d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Go 1 dsc hm
Go 1 dsc hm
Goldschm
d t
d t
d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Goldschmidt
Goldschmidt
Go1 dschmi d t
D i meth i cone Go1 dschmi d t
Dimeth icone Go1 dschmi d t
478 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Abil 500 Di methi cone Go1 dschmi dt
Abil 1000 Dimethicone Go1 dschmi dt
A-C Copolymer 400 Ethyl ene-vi nyl acetate copolyrnerAl1 ied Si g-
A-C Polyethy
A-C Polyethy
Acetol
Acetol 1706
Acetul an
A-C Copolymer 540 Copolymer
A-C Copolymer 580 Copolymer
A-C Polyethylene 9A Polyethylene
A-C Polyethylene 617 Polyethylene
ene 61 7A Polyethylene
ene 617G Polyethylene
Acritamer 940
Acritamer 941
Acrysol ICs-I
Active #4
Acuscrub 44
Acuscrub 50
Acylglutamate HS-11
Adogen MA-108
Adol 52
Adol 52 NF
Adriano 0/235970
Aerosil R972
Acetylated 1 anol in a1 cohol
Acetylated 1 anol i n a1 cohol
Acetylated lanol i n alcohol
Carbomer 940
Carbomer 941
Acry la te /S teare th -20 /Meth- acrylate Copol ymer
Scrub agent
Scrub agent
Surfactant
Dimethyl stearami ne
Cetyl alcohol
Cetyl alcohol
Fragrance
Fumed silica
Allied Sig-
Allied Sig-
Allied Sig-
Allied Sig-
Allied Sig-
Allied Sig-
Henkel
Henkel
Ame r c ho 1
RITA
RITA
Rohm&Haas
E1 ew
Allied Sig-
Allied Sig-
Aj i nomoto
Wi tco
Wi tco
Wi tco
Degu s s a
Trade-Named Raw Materials 479
RAW MATERIALS
A G I T a l c
A j i dew N-50
A j i dew T-50
A l c o l e c BS
A1 conate SBR-3
Aldo HMS
A ldo MCT
A l f o l 18
Alkamide DL 203/S
Alkamide DC 212/S
A1 kamide D I N 295/S
A1 kamide LE
A1 kamul EGMS
A1 1 a n t o i n
A loe E x t r a c t
A loe M o i s t
A loe Vera 200X
A loe Veragel 200
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
T a l c
Sodium PCA
P y r r o l i d o n e c a r b o x y l i c a c i d
S i n g l e b leached l e c i t h i n
Sodium pe t ro leum s u l f o n a t e
G1 y c e r y l monostearate
Capry l i c c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
A1 kanol ami de
A1 kano l ami de
A1 kano
A1 kano
A1 oe
A1 oe
A1 oe
A1 oe
ami de
ami de
A loe Vera Gel Deco lo r i zed 1 X
Aloe Vera L i q u i d A1 oe
A loe Veragel L i p o i d A loe
A loe Veragel L i q u i d 1 : l
Aloe Veragel L i q u i d Concent ra te 1 :40
A l p i n e F l o r a l i s t i c Fragrance
SOURCE
Whi t t a k e r
A j i nomoto
A j i nomoto
Amer Lech
W i t c o
Lonza
Lonza
V i s t a
Rhone-
Rhone-
Rhone-
Rhone-
I C 1
T e r r y
T e r r y
D r . Madis
D r . Madis
T e r r y
D r . Madis
D r . Madis
D r . Madis
D r . Madis
A1 p i ne
480 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
A1 p i ne 165-049
A luge l DF30
Amerchol CAB
Amerchol H-9
Amerchol L-101
Amerchol 400
Amerl a t e
Amer la te P
Amerscreen P
Amihope LL
Amiso f t CA
A m i s o f t CS-11
A m i s o f t CT-12
Ami te r LG-OD
A m i t e r LGOD-2
Ami te r LGS-2
Ammonyx KP
AMP
AMP-95
Amphi s o l
Amphisol A
Amphisol K
Ampholyt JA140
Amphol y t JB130
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Fragrance
Aluminum hyd rox ide
S t e r o l emul s i f i e r / s t a b
S t e r o l e m u l s i f i e r / s t a b
M ine ra l o i l and l a n o l i n
S t e r o l emul s i f i e r / s t a b i
I s o p r o p y l 1 anol a t e
Lanol i n f a t t y a c i d /es te
1 i zer
l i z e r
a l c o h o l
i zer
E t h y l d i hydroxypropy l PABA
Lauroy l l y s i n e
Cocoyl g lu tamate
Sodium cocoy l g lu tamate
TEA-Cocoyl g lu tamate
D i - o c t y l d o d e c y l l a u r o y l g lu tamate
D i s t e a r e t h - 2 1 a u r o y l g lu tamate
Olea1 konium c h l o r i d e
2-ami no-2-methyl -1 -propanol
2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol
DEA-Cetyl phosphate
Potassium c e t y l phosphate
Sodium lauroamphoacetate
Cocami dopropy l b e t a i n e
SOURCE
A 1 p i ne
Gui 1 i n i
Amerchol
Amerc ho 1
Amerchol
Amerchol
Amerchol
Amerc ho 1
Arne r c h o 1
A j inomoto
A ] i nomoto
A j i nomoto
A j inomoto
A j i nomoto
A j i nomoto
A j i nomoto
Stepan
Angus
Angus
G i vaudan
G i vaudan
G i vaudan
Hu ls
Hul s
Trade-Named Raw Materials 481
RAW MATERIALS
Amphomer LV-71
Amphotensi d 84
Amphotensid GB 2009
Amphotensid 9M
Antaron V-220
A n t i l 141 L i q u i d
A n t i l 1418
Ant
Ant
Ant
APT
1 1415
1 HS60
1 171
Aquasol 104
A r l ace1 -C
A r l a c e l 20
A r l a c e l 40
A r l a c e l 60
A r l a c e l 80
A r l a c e l 83
A r l a c e l 85
A r l a c e l 165
A r l a c e l 186
A r l a c e l 481
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Propylene g l y c o l p r o p y l ene g l yco
PEG-55 propy lene
Zschi mmer
Zschi mmer
Zschi mmer
I S P
(and) PEG-55 Goldschmidt o l e a t e
g l y c o l o l e a t e Go1 dschmi d t
PEG-55 propy lene g l y c o l o l e a t e Go1 dschmi d t
Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (and) Goldschmidt G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e
PEG-18 G l y c e r y l g l y c o l cocoate/ Goldschmidt 01 e a t e
Aloe v e r a g e l
Emul s i f y i ng agent
Emul s i f y i ng agent
Centerchem
CLE
I C 1
I C 1
S o r b i t a n monopalmi t a t e I C 1
S o r b i t a n monostearate I C 1
S o r b i t a n monooleate I C 1
S o r b i t a n sesqui o l e a t e I C 1
Emul s i f y i ng agent I C 1
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) I C 1
G1 y c e r o l monool e a t e I C 1
Emul s i f y i ng agent I C 1
PEG 100 S t e a r a t e
482 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
Arlacel 582
Arlacel 780
Arlacel 989
Arlacel 1689
Arlacel DOA
Arlamol E
Arlatone G
Arlamol HD
Arlamol ISML
Arlamol M812
Ar
Ar
Ar
Ar
amo
amo
aso
aso
s3
s7
ve DMI
ve 200
Arlatone G
iquid
Arlatone PQ220
Arlatone T
Arlatone 985
Arlatone 2121
Armeen DM18D
A-SM
AT Series
Atlas G-1726
Atlas G-1795
Emu
Emu
Emu
Emu
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
si fyi ng agent
si fyi ng agent
si fyi ng agent
si fyi ng agent
Emulsifying agent
PPG-15 stearyl ether
PEG 25 hydrogenated castor oil
Emul si fyi ng agent
Isosorbide monolaurate
Emufsifying agent
Emul si fyi ng agent
Emul si fyi ng agent
Emul si fyi ng agent
Isoceteth-20
PEG 25 hydrogenated castor oil
Polyquaternium-19
Sunscreen agent
Sunscreen agent
Sunscreen agent
A1 i phati c ami nes
Stearami ne oxide
Iron oxides
Beeswax der i vat i ve
SOURCE
ic1
ic1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
1c1
Akzo
Nippon O i l
1c1
IC1
Trade-Named Raw Materials 483
RAW MATERIALS
A t l a s G-2162
A t l a s G-2330
A t l a s G-3570
A t l a s G 73500
Atmul 84s
Aubygel x-125
Avocado O i l
Avocado Speci a1
Baby
Bays
Powder
l o n e F
Eentone Ge
Bentone Ge
Eentone L T
Eentone MA
#165-648
u i d M10
Baysi 1 one F1 u i d PK2O
Beauty 0/239870
Bee's M i l k
Bentone EW
Eentone Gel CAO
Bentone Gel I P M
Eentone Gel LO1
Bentone Gel M I 0
Bentone Gel SS71
vs-5 vs-5 PC
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
I C 1
I C 1
I C 1
IC1
L i PO
Dragoco
Fragrance
S i 1 i cone
S i 1 i cone
Perfume o i l
Rheol og i ca
Rheol o g i ca
Rheol og i ca
Rheologica
H e c t o r i t e c l a y
Rheo log ica l a d d i t i v e
Rheo log ica l a d d i t i v e
Rheo log ica l a d d i t i v e
Rheo log ica l a d d i t i v e
Rheo log ica l a d d i t i v e
addi t i ve
a d d i t i v e
addi t i ve
a d d i t i v e
Mobay
Mobay
Koster
Rheox
Rheox
Rheox
Rheox
Rheox
Rheox
Rheox
Rheox
Rheox
Rheox
484 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Bermocol l E230 Whi t t a k e r
Bermocol l E481 Whi t t a k e r
Beta Glucam 15% Coarse Kos te r
Biodynes TRF T issue r e s p i r a t o r y f a c t o r s Brooks
B i o l ac L a c t i c a c i d , 88%
B i o - s u l p h u r CLR CLR
B i o t e r g e AS-40 Sodi u m C14-C16 o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e Stepan
B i rch ( w a t e r ) S p e c i a l Dragoco
B1 andol M i n e r a l o i l Wi t c o
Bouquet Eau de Mer PC 916.315 Perfume
B r i j Oleth-10 1c1
B r i j 20 Emul s i f y i ng agent 1c1
B r i j 30 Emul s i f y i ng agent 1c1
B r i j 35 E m u l s i f y i n g agent 1c1
B r i j 35SP E m u l s i f y i n g agent 1c1
B r i j 52 Ceteth-2 1c1
B r i j 56 E m u l s i f y i n g agent 1c1
B r i j 58 Emul s i f y i ng agent 1c1
B r i j 72 S t e a r e t h - 2 1c1
B r i j 76 Steareth-10 1c1
B r i j 78 S tea re th -20 1c1
B r i j 93 Emul s i f y i ng agent 1c1
B r i j 97 Emul s i f y i ng agent 1c1
B r i j 700 E m u l s i f y i n g agent I C 1
Trade-Named Raw Materials 485
RAW MATERIALS
B r i j 721
B r i j 721s
Bronopol
Busan 1504
c19-011
C19-012
C65-4429
Cab-0-Si 1 M-5
Cab-0-Si1 TS-530
CAE
Camomile Spec ia l
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Steareth-21
Emu1 s i f y i ng agent
B a c t e r i c i d e
M i c r o b i o c i de
D&C Red No. 7
D&C Red No. 6
F&D Ye l low No. 5
S i l i c a
S i l i c a
DCA e t h y l cocoyl a r g i n a t e
Capry l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e
Carbopol EDT Carbomer
Carbopol ETD 2055 Ca rbome r
Carbopol 934 Carbomer 934
Carbopol 940 Carbomer 940
Carbopol 941 Carbomer 941
Carbopol 954 Carbomer 954
Carbopol 980 Carbomer 980
Carbopol 981 Carbomer 981
Carbopol 1382 Carbomer 1382
Carnat ion M i n e r a l O i 1
Castorwax Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l
SOURCE
I C 1
I C 1
I n o l ex
Buckman
Sun
Sun
Sun
Cabot
Cabot
A j i nomoto
Dragoco
Bernel
Goodri ch
Goodri ch
Goodr i ch
Goodri ch
Goodr ich
Goodri ch
Goodri ch
Goodr i ch
Goodri ch
W i t c o
CasChem
486 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICALS DESCRIPTION
Cegoso
C e l l o s
C e l l os
C e l l os
t C24
ze QP lOOMH H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u
ze QP-4400-H H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u
ze PP-15,000-H H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u
Cel quat H-1 00
Celquat SC-240
Cera A l b a l a t e 103
Cera B e l l i n a
Cera1 an
Ceraphyl 41
Ceraphyl 45
Ceraphyl 50
Ceraphyl 50s
Ceraphyl 60
Ceraphyl 65
Ceraphyl 368
Ceraphyl 375
Ceraphyl 424
Ceraphyl 494
Ceraphyl 847
Ceraphyl I C A
Cerasynt MN
Cerasynt PA
Cerasynt Q
ose
ose
ose
Pol y q u a t e r n i um-4
Polyquatern ium-10
Behenyl beeswaxates
Pg-3 Beeswax
C12-15 a l c o h o l s l a c t a t e
D i o c t y l mal a t e
Emul s i f i e r
Emul s i f i e r
Quatern i urn-22
Quatern i um-26
O c t y l p a l m i t a t e
I s o s t e a r y l neopentanoate
E m u l s i f i e r
Emul s i f i e r
SOURCE
Union Car
Union Car
Union Car
NatStarch
NatStarch
Kos ter
Kos ter
Ame r c ho 1
VanDyk
VanDyk
VanDyk
VanDyk
VanDyk
VanDyk
VanDyk
VanDyk
VanDyk
VanDyk
Octy ldodecy l s t e a r o y l s t e a r a t e VanDyk
E m u l s i f i e r VanDyk
G l y c o l s t e a r a t e SE VanDyk
Propylene g l y c o l s t e a r a t e VanDyk
G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e SE VanDyk
Trade-Named Raw Materials 487
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Cerasynt 840 PEG-20 s t e a r a t e
Ceresine Wax 130/135
Ceresi ne Wax 140/150
Cetal Cetyl alcohol
Cet
Cet
Cet
01 MM
01 OE
01 s
Emol
Emo 1
Emol
ien t e s t e r s
i en t e s t e r s
ien t e s t e r s
Cetiol SN Emollient esters
Chamomile LS Safflower o i l (and) chamomile ex t r ac t
Chi a ra 0/238927 Fragrance
Chlorhydrol, 50% Aluminum chlorhydrate , 50%
Cholesterol NF
Chroma-1 i t e 81 ack Pearlescent pigment
Chroma-lite Dark Blue Pearlescent pigment
Ci t rof lex-2 P l a s t i c i z e r
C1 ea r l an Lanol i n
CMC 7MF Cell u l ose gum
Coconut Oil #76
Collagen C L R
Coll asol Col 1 agen
Color No. 3170 Pur Oxy Yellow 0 . C . Color No. 3315 Pur Oxy Umber B . C . Color No. 2511 Lo-Micron Pink B . C . Color No. 3121-D & C Red No. 21 Color No. 7055 P u r Oxy Yellow 0.C. Color No. 7153 Lo-Micron P i n k B . C .
SOURCE
Van Dyk
Koster
Koster
Ame r cho 1
Henke
Henke
Henke
Henkel
Rehei s
Rita
VanDyk
VanDyk
Morf 1 ex
Henkel
Aqua1 on
We1 ch
CLR
Croda
488 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Copherol F-1300 Tocopherol Henkel
Corona Pure New L a n o l i n
Cosmetic Tan C33-130 I r o n o x i d e Sun
Cosmowax J
Courage 0/243101
CP 1052
Cremogen A loe Vera
Cremophor A6
Cremophor A25
Cremophor EL
Cremophor HP14
Cremophor RH410
Crodacel QM
Crodac id B
Crodacol C-70
Crodacol C-95
Crodacol CS-50
Crodacol S-95
Crodacol S-95NF
Crodafos CES
Ce tea ry l a l c o h o l (and) c e t e a r - e th -20
Fragrance
Shampoo base
Propy lene g l y c o l (and) e thoxy- d i g l y c o l (and) a l o e e x t r a c t
S u r f a c t a n t
S u r f a c t a n t
S u r f a c t a n t
S u r f a c t a n t
S u r f a c t a n t
Cocodimonium hydraxypropoxy c e l l u l ose
Behenic a c i d
C e t y l a l c o h o l
C e t y l a l c o h o l
Ce tea ry l a l c o h o l
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
Ce tea ry l a l c o h o l (and) c e t e a r y l phosphate
Croda
I C 1
Haarman
BASF
BASF
BASF
BAS F
BASF
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Trade-Named Raw Materials 489
RAW MATERIALS
Crodafos N3 N e u t r a l
Crodafos N3A
Crodafos N1 OA
Crodalan LA
Crodamol CAP
Crodamol DA
Crodamol ML
Crodamol MM
Crodamol PMP
Crodamol PTC
Crodamol P T I S
Crodamol SS
Crodamol W
Crodapear l L i q u i d
Crodasi n i c LS-30
Cromoist CS
Crodesta F10
Crodesta F110
Cropept ide W
Croquat HH
Croquat L
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
DEA O le th -3 phosphate
Ole th-3 phosphate
Ole th-10 phosphate
C e t y l a c e t a t e (and) a c e t y l a t e d 1 anol i n a l c o h o l
F a t t y a c i d e s t e r
F a t t y a c i d e s t e r
F a t t y a c i d e s t e r
Myr i s t y 1 myr i s t a t e
SOURCE
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
PPG-2 m y r i s t y l e t h e r p r o p i o n a t e Croda
P e n t a e r t h y r i t y l t e t r a c a p r y l a t e / Croda c a p r a t e
P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l t e t r a i s o s t e a r a t e Croda
C e t y l e s t e r s
S t e a r y l heptanoate
Sodi um 1 a u r e t h s u l f a t e (and) hyd roxye thy l stearamide-MIPA
Sodi um 1 a u r o y l sa rcos i n a t e
C h o n d r o i t i n s u l f a t e (and) hyd ro l yzed p r o t e i n
Sugar e s t e r
Sugar e s t e r
Hydro lyzed wheat p r o t e i n (and) wheat o l i gosacchar i des
Cocodimonium hyd roxyp ropy l hyd ro l yzed ha i r k e r a t i n
Lauryldimonium hyd roxyp ropy l c o l 1 agen
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
490 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
Crosu l t a i ne C-50
C r o t e i n AD
C r o t e i n SPA
C r o t h i x
Crovo l A-70
Crovo l PK-70
C r y s t a l 0
C u t i n a CBS
C u t i n a CP
C u t i n a GMS
Cu t ina LM
C u t i n a MD
Cyclomide DC 212/S
C y c l o r y l WAT
C y c l o t e r i c BET C-30
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Cocamidopropyl h y d r o x y s u l t a i n e
Hydro lyzed animal p r o t e i n
Hydro lyzed animal p r o t e i n
PEG-1 50 p e n t a e r y t h r i t y l t e t r a s t e a r a t e
PEG-60 almond g l y c e r i d e s
PEG-45 palm ke rne l g l y c e r i d e s
Castor o i l
Cream base
Cream base
Cream base
Cream base
Cream base
Cocamide DEA
Cocami dopropy l b e t a i n e
DC-556 S i 1 i cone
DC-593 S i 1 i cone
D&C Red #7 Ca Lake (3107)
D&C Red #9 (31-3009)
Deosafe 75128 N / I Perfume
Dermacryl LT S k i n c a r e polymer
Dermacryl-79 S k i n c a r e polymer
SOURCE
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
CasChem
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Cyc lo
Cyc lo
Cyc lo
Dow Corn ing
Dow Corn ing
Thomasset
Thomasset
Haarman
Na t . S t a r c h
Na t . S ta rch
Trade-Named Raw Materials 491
RAW MATERIALS
Dermol 185
Di aformer 2-A
Diaformer 2-301
Di aformer 2-400
Di ahold A-503
Dionil OC/K
D-Limonene
Dow Corning 2-7224
Dow Corning Q2-5000
Dow Corning 190
Dow Corning 193
Dow Corning 200
DC 200 fluid; 50 vis
Dow Corning 200; 100
Dow Corning 200; 200
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Isostearyl neopentanoate
Methacrylol ethyl betaine/ methacrylates copolymer
Methacrylol ethyl betaine/ methacrylates copolymer
Methacrylol ethyl betaine/ methacrylates copolymer
AMP-Acrylates Copolymer
PEG-4 01 eami de
Dipentene
Si 1 icone
Di met h i cone cop0 1 yo 1
Dimethicone copolyol
Dimethicone copolyol
Di met h i cone
Di methicone
Di methi cone
Dimethicone
Dow Corning 344 Fluid Cyclomethicone
Dow Corning 345 Fluid Cyclomethicone
Dow Corning 556 Phenyl tri methi cone
SOURCE
Sandoz
Sandoz
Sandoz
Sandoz
Hul s
Florida
Dow Corn
Dow Corn
Dow Corn
Dow Corn
Dow Corn
Dow Corn
Dow Corn
Dow Corning
Dow Corning
Dow Corning
Dow Corning
Dow Corning 593 Dimethicone (and) trimethyl- Dow Corning si loxysi 1 icate
Dow Corning 929 Amodimethicone (and) nonoxy- Dow Corning no1 -10 (and) tal 1 ow-tri moni um chloride
Dow Corning 1401 Fluid Dow Corning
492 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATER I ALS
D o w i c i l 200
Dragoc id
Drakeol 9
Drakeol 109
Drakeol 35
Dry F l o PC
Duveen T o i l e t Soap
Dynacer i n 660
Dynasan 110
Dynasan 114
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
P r e s e r v a t i ve Dow
Dragoco
M ine ra l o i l Penreco
M i n e r a l o i 1 , naphthen ic Penreco
M ine ra l o i l Penreco
Aluminum s t a r c h o c t e n y l s u c c i n a t e Nat S ta rch
Base Duveen
01 e y l e r u c a t e Hul s
T r i Capr i n Hul s
T r i myr i s t i n Hul s
Eastman A0 38s Polymer Eastman
Eastman AQ 55s Polymer Eastman
Eastman V i tam in E TPGS (20%) Eastman
Eastman V i t a m i n E Ace ta te 6-81 Eastman
E l a s t o s o l Animal Co l l agen & E l a s t i n Croda
Eldew CL-301 D i - ( c h o l e s t e r y l , behenyl , A j i nomoto o c t y l d o d e c y l ) N -Lauroy l -L -g lu t - amic a c i d e s t e r
E l e f a c 1-205 Oc ty ldodecy l neopentanoate
E l f a c o s C26 Polymer f o r cosmet ics
E l f a c o s E200 Polymer f o r cosmet ics
E l f a c o s ST9 Polymer f o r cosmet ics
Emal ex CC-168 C e t y l oc tanoa te
Emalex GM-5 POE (5) g l y c e r y l monostearate
Berne l
Akzo
Akzo
Akzo
N i hon
N i hon
Trade-Named Raw Materials 493
RAW M A T E R I A L S
Emalex GMS-7CAE
Emal ex GMS-45RT
Emalex HC-5
Emalex S . T , G . - R
Emeressence 1160
Emerest 2000
Emerest 2314
Emerest 2316
Emerest 2350
Emerest 2388
Emerest 2400
Emerest 2407
Emerest 2452
Emersol 132
Emersol 213
Emerson-1 323
Emery I P P
Emery 622
Emery 916
Emery 1723
Esca lo l 507
Esca lo l 557
E s c a l o l 567
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
G l y c e r y l monostearate, s e l f emul s i f y i ng
G l y c e r y l monostearate, s e l f emul s i f y i ng (HLB5)
POE ( 5 ) hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l
Hydrogenated o i l
Phenoxyethanol
G1 y c e r y l s t e a r a t e
E s t e r
E s t e r
G l y c o l s t e a r a t e
Propy lene g l y c o l d i p e l a rgonate
G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e
G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e SE
P o l y g l y c e r y l d i - i s o s t e a r a t e
S t e a r i c a c i d
Coconut a c i d
G l y c e r i n pu re
O c t y l d ime thy l PABA
O c t y l methoxycinnamate
Benzophenone-3
SOURCE
Nihon Emul
Nihon Emul
Nihon Emul
Nihon Emul
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Van Dyk
Van Dyk
Van Dyk
494 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
E s t a l a n 430
E s t o l EHP 1543
E s t o l 1550
Ethomeen C-25
Ethox-ykt ted Carnauba
Ethoxyo l 24
Eumulgin 91
Eumulgin 92
Euper lan PK-771
Eusolex 232
Eusolex 6300
Eutano l G
Ewalan ODE 50
E x t r a c t 52
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Cosmetic emol 1 i e n t e s t e r
Cosmetic e s t e r
Cosmetic e s t e r
E thoxy l a t e d a1 i p h a t i c ami nes
E thoxy l a t e d o l e y l a l c o h o l
Cosmetic e m u l s i f i e r O/W
Cosmetic e m u l s i f i e r O/W
Pear l sh ine c o n c e n t r a t e
Sunscreen
Sunscreen
Octy ldodecano l
Extrapon Hamamel i s Speci a1
Ex t rapon 3-Speci a1
Fancol ALA
F inqua t CT
F i n s o l v TN
amenco Super B lue
amenco Superpear l
amenco Ve lve t -100
e x r i c i n 9
A c e t y l a t e d l a n o l i n a l c o h o l
Quatern i um-75
C12-15 a l c o h o l s benzoate
Cosmetics pigment
Cosmetics pigment
Cosmetics pigment
F a t t y a c i d e s t e r
SOURCE
Lanaetex
Unichema
Uni chema
Akzo
Koster
Lanaetex
Hen k e l
Henkel
Henkel
EM I n d u s t
EM I n d u s t
Henkel
HE Wagner
Zschi mmer
Dragoco
Dragoco
Fanning
F i ne tex
F i ne tex
Mearl
Mearl
Mearl
Caschem
Trade-Named Raw Materials 495
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Floral Spice NP49 Fragrance
F1 orasynth AB5697 Powder type
Fluilan Liquid lanolin
Fomblin HC/R
Forestal 1
Forlan L R.I.T.A. b lend
Fougere Lavender Fragrance
Fragrance DE-47
Fragrance DO-60
Fragrance-Finesse Type
Fragrance-Floral #169-120
Fragrance GG44
Fragrance GK-17
Fragrance GK-19
Fragrance GK-21
Fragrance GP-58
Fragrance H-45756
Fragrance 2991H
Fragrance #X3110
Fragrance #1-67
Fragrance #189-7124
Fragrance #163-478
SOURCE
Croda
Brooks
IC1
Rita
Fr i t zsche
Novarome
Novarome
Novarome
Novarome
Novarome
Novarome
Robert et
IFF
Roure
496 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
G-9600 1053 Shampoo base I C 1
G a f f i x VC-213 V i nylcaprolactam/PVP/Dimethyl- ISP aminoethy l me thac ry la te copolymer
Gafquat 755 Po lyqua te rn i um-1 1 I S P
Gamma Orzanol Kos ter
Ganex V-220 PVP/Eicosene copolymer I S P
Ganex WP660 A l k y l a t e d v i n y l p y r r o l i d o n e I S P copo l ymer
Geahlene 750 M i n e r a l o i l (and) hydrogenated butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer (and) hydrogenated e thy lene /p ropy lene / s t y r e n e copolymer
Gemtone Mauve Quar tz Cosmetic p e a r l powder Mearl
Germaben I 1 Cosmetic p r e s e r v a t i v e S u t t o n
Germaben 11-E Cosmetic p r e s e r v a t i v e Su t ton
Germal l I 1 D i azo1 i d i n y l u rea S u t t o n
Germal l 115 I m i dazo l i d i n y l u rea S u t t o n
Geropon SBFA-30 Rhone
Ginkgo B i 1 oba Vern i n
Givaudan #PSC 10,435/6 Fragrance G i vaudan
Glucam E-10 Ethoxy l a t e d methyl g lucos ides Amerchol
Glucam P-20 Propoxy la ted methy l g l u c o s i d e s Amerchol
G1 ucamate DOE-I 20 PEG-120 methyl g lucose d i o l e a t e Amerchol
G1 ucamate SSE-20 E t h o x y l a t e d methy l g lucos ides Amerchol
Glucamate SSG-20 A1 k y l a t e d methy l g l u c o s i d e e s t e r Amerchol
G luca te DO Methy l g l u c o s i d e e s t e r Amerc ho 1
G luca te SS Methy l g l u c o s i d e e s t e r Arne r c ho 1
Trade-Named Raw Materials 497
RAW MATERIALS
Glucopon 425 CS
Glucopon 600 CSUP
Glucopon 625 CSUP
Glucquat 100
Glydant
G lydant P lus
Glypure 70%
GMS SE
G r i 1 locam E-20
G r i 1 l o t e n LSE-65K
G r i l l o t e n LSE-87K
G r i l l o t e n PSE 141G
Hai r Complex Aquosum
Hamamel i s Speci a1
Hamp-ene Na4
Hamp-ene 220
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
DMDM hydan to i n
G l y c o l i c a c i d
G l y c e r o l Monostearate SE
Methy l g luce th -20
Sucrose cocoate
Sucrose cocoate
Sucrose s t e a r a t e
Tet rasod
Te t rasod
um EDTA
um EDTA
Herba l Fragrance SL 79-1224
H e t e s t e r HCA G l y c e r y l t r i a c e t y l hydroxy- s t ea r a t e
H e t e s t e r HCP PPG-3 hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l
H i - S i 1 T-600
Horse-ches tnu t Spec ia l
Hos tace r i n PN73
SOURCE
Amerchol
Ame r c ho 1
Arne r c ho 1
Amerchol
Lonza
Lonza
Stepan
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
CLR
Dragoco
Hampshi r e
Hampshi r e
PFW
Berne l
Berne l
PPG
Dragoco
Hoechst
498 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Hostaphat KL340N Hoec h s t
Hydrogenated Po ly i sobu tene Amoco
Hydro1 yzed S i 1 k P r o t e i n I keda
H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA
H y d r o t r i t i c u m 2000
Hydroxy01
Hygropl ex HHG
Hys ta r CG
Hys t rene 5016
Igepon AC78
I m w i t o r 780K
I m w i t o r 900
I m w i t o r 960 F lakes
I n c r o c a s 40
I n c r o d e t TD-7C
Incromate OLL
Incromate SEL
Wheat amino a c i d s Croda
Wheat p r o t e i n h y d r o l y z a t e s Croda
Malmstrom
CLR
Hydrogenated s t a r c h h y d r o l y s a t e Lonza
F a t t y a c i d Humko
Ani on i c s u r f a c t a n t
I s o s t e a r y l d i g l y c e r y l succ ina te
G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e
G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e SE
PEG-40 c a s t o r o i l
T r i dece th -7 c a r b o x y l i c a c i d
01 ivamidopropy l d imethy lamine 1 a c t a t e
Sesamidopropyl d imethy lamine 1 a c t a t e
I S P
Hul s
Hul s
Hul s
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Inc romec tan t AMEA-70 Acetamide MEA Croda
Incromectan t AMEA-100 Acetamide MEA Croda
Incromectan t LAMEA Acetamide MEA (and) l ac tamide MEA Croda
Incromide ALD A1 mondami de DEA Croda
Inc romide BAD Babassuamide DEA Croda
Trade-Named Raw Materials 499
RAW M A T E R I A L S
Inc romide CA
Inc romide CAC
Inc romide LR
Inc romide WGD
Incromine BB
Incromi ne Oxide WG
Incronam AL-30
Incronam WG-30
Incronam 30
I n c r o p o l CS-20
I n c r o p o l SC-20
I n c r o q u a t BA-85
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
Cocamide DEA
Cocamide DEA cocoy l sa rcos ine
Laurami de DEA
Wheat germamide DEA
Behenamidopropyl d imethy lamine
Wheat germami dopropy l o x i d e
Almondami dopropy l b e t a i ne
Wheat germamidopropyl b e t a i n e
Cocamidopropyl b e t a i ne
Ceteare th-20
E t h o x y l a t e d a l c o h o l
Babassuami dopropal kon i um c h l o r i d e
I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS Behentr imonium m e t h o s u l f a t e (and) c e t e a r y l a l c o h o l
I n c r o q u a t CR Conc. Ce tea ry l a l c o h o l (and) PEG-40
SOURCE
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda c a s t o r o i 1 (and) - s t e a r a l koni um c h l o r i d e
I n c r o q u a t 0-50 Olea1 konium c h l o r i d e Croda
I n c r o q u a t S-85 S t e a r a l konium c h l o r i d e Croda
Indopo l H - 1 0 0 Viscous po lybu tene Amoco
I rgasan DP300 B a c t e r i o s t a t C i ba-Gei gy
I r o n Oxide Brown 7058 Warner-3enk
I r o n Oxide Ye l l ow 7055 Warner-Jenk
I s o p a r H I s o p a r a f f i n s o l v e n t Exxon
500 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Isopropylan 50 Isopropyl ester of lanolin Arne r cho 1
Ivarlan 3230 Lanolin oil Brooks
Ivy Special Dragoco
3 - 13 -AT Talc
Jergens Type R-30318 Fragrance
Kaopolite SF Polishing powder
Kaopolite TLC Polishing powder
Kaopolite 1147 Polishing powder
Karion F
Kathon CG Methyichlorisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone
Keltrol Xanthan gun1
Keltrol F Xanthan gun1
Keltrol RD Xan than gum
Keltrol T Xanthan gum
Keltrol TF Xanthan gum
Kelzan Xanthan gum
Kelzan AR Xanthan gum
Kessco Ethylene Glycol Distearate
Kessco Glyceryl Monostearate
Kessco-653 Fatty ester
Kester Wax K-48 Spermaceti
Kester Wax 62
Kaopolite
Kaopoli te
Kaop o 1 i te
E. Merck
R o hm &
Kelco
Kelco
Kelco
Ke 1 co
Ke 1 co
Kelco
Kelco
Stepan
Stepan
Stepan
Koster
Koster
Trade-Named Raw Materials 501
RAW MATERIALS
Kester Wax 100
Kester Wax 8 5
K l u c e l G F
K l u c e l MF
K o r t h i x H
K y t a m e r KC
Lamepon S
L a n e t o 50
L a n e t o 100
L a n e t t e 0
L a n e t t e N
L a n e t t e 1 6
L a n o g e n e
L a n o l i n USP
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
H y d r o x y p r o p y l c e l l u l o s e
H y d r o x y p r o p y l c e l l u l o s e
T h i c k e n i n g a g e n t
P o l y q u a t e r n i urn-29
P r o t e i n s u r f a c t a n t
PEG-75 1 a n a 1 i n
PEG-75 1 a n o l i n
C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l
C r e a m b a s e o / w
C e t y l a l c o h o l
L a n o l i n a l c o h o l & m i n e r a l o i 1
L a n o l i n - X - t r a D e o d o r i z e d
L a n t h a n o l L A L F o a m i n g a g e n t
L a n t r o l L i q u i d l a n o l i n
L e x a i n e C Cocoami d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e
Lexami n e S - 1 3 Stearami d o p r o p y l d i m e t h y l ami n e
L e x a t e I L C o n c e n t r a t e / b l e n d
SOURCE
Koster
Koster
A q u a l o n
A q u a l o n
K a o p o l i t e
A m e r c h o 1
H e n k e l
R i t a
R i t a
H e n k e l
H e n k e l
Hen k e 1
A m e r c h o l
R i t a
R i t a
S t e p a n
H e n k e l
I n o l e x
I n o l e x
I n o l e x
L e x a t e PX P e t r o l a t u m ( a n d ) l a n o l i n a l c o h o l I n o l e x
L e x e i n QX-3000 Q u a t e r n i u m - 7 6 h y d r o l y z e d c o l l a g e n I n o l e x
L e x e m u l AR G l y c e r y l s t ea ra t e ( a n d ) s t e a r - I n o l e x a m i d o e t h y l d i e t h y l a m i n e
502 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
Lexemul CS-20
Lexemul EGMS
Lexemul GDL
Lexemul P
Lexemul T
Lexemul 55G
Lexemul 515
Lexemul 561
Lexgard 8
Lexgard Bronopol
Lexgard M
Lexgard P
Lexol BS
Lexol EHS
Lexol GT-865
Lexol PG 8/10
Lexol PG-865
Lexol 3975
Lexorez 100
Lexquat AMG-BE0
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Cetearyl alcohol (and) cet- eareth-20
G1 ycol stearate
Glyceryl dilaurate
Emu1 si f i er
Glyceryl stearate SE
Glyceryl stearate
G1 yceryl stearate
Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100
Butyl paraben
2-bromo-2-nitropropane-l,3-diol
Methyl paraben
Propyl paraben
Isobutyl stearate
Octyl stearate
Capryl ic/capric triglyceride
Emol 1 i ent
Propylene glycol dicaprylate/
stearate
dicaprate
Isopropyl palmitate (and) iso- propyl myri state (and) i so- propyl stearate
Glycerine/diethylene glycol/
Behenami dopropyl PG di moni um
adi pate crosspolymer
chl ori de
SOURCE
Inolex
Inolex
Inolex
Inolex
Inolex
Inolex
Inolex
Inolex
Inol ex
Inolex
Inol ex
Inolex
Inolex
Inolex
Inolex
Inolex
Inolex
Inolex
Inolex
Inolex
Trade-Named Raw Materials 503
RAW MATERIALS
Lexquat AMG- IS
Lime Blossom Spec ia l
L i p a c i d e PCO
L i p o f r u i t Cucumber
L ipona te SS
L i p o v o l A
L i p o v o l ALM
L i p o v o l P
L i popeg 100-S
L i p o x o l 600 MED
L i quapar
L i q u i d Coconut Soap,
Locron L
Lo M ic ron B lack
Lo M ic ron P ink
Lo Mic ron Ye l l ow
Lonzest 143/S
Luv i s k o l VA64
Luv i s k o l 1 VA73W
L u v i t o l EHO
L y t r o n 295
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
I sos tea rami dopropy l -PG-di moni urn I n o l ex c h l o r i d e
P a l m i t o y l hyd ro l yzed animal p r o t e i n
S t e a r y l s t e a r a t e
N a t u r a l vege tab le o i 1
Almond o i l
N a t u r a l vege tab le o i 1
Po lyoxyethy lene f a t t y a c i d e s t e r
PEG- 1 2
P r e s e r v a t i v e
40%
I r o n ox ides (and) t a l c
I r o n ox ides (and) t a l c
I r o n ox ides (and) t a l c
M y r i s t y l p r o p i o n a t e
P o l y v i n y l p y r r o l i d o n e
PVP/VA copolymer
S y n t h e t i c o i l
Opaci f i e r
Dragoco
L i DO
L i po
L i PO
L i PO
L i PO
L i PO
L i DO
Hul s
S u t t o n
Laure l
Henkel
Whi t t a k e r
Whi t t a k e r
Whi t t a k e r
Lonza
BASF
BASF
BAS F
Morton
504 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Mac ka
Mac ka
RAW MATERIALS
Mackadet BSC
Mackadet CBC
Mackadet LCB
Mackadet SBC-8
Mackadet WGS
Mackadet 40K
Mackalene NLC
Mackal ene 11 6
Mackalene 316
Mackal ene 326
ene 426
ene 716
Mackam CET
Mac kam WGB
Mackam 2C
Mackam 35
Mackam 35HP
Mackami de AME-100
Mackamide C
Mackami de CMA
Mackamide CS
Mackami de LLM
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Baby shampoo c o n c e n t r a t e
C o n d i t i o n e r c o n c e n t r a t e
C o n d i t i o n e r c o n c e n t r a t e
M i I d b l e n d
L a c t a t e s
Cocami dop ropy l d ime thy l ami ne l a c t a t e
Stearami dopropyl d imethy lami ne 1 a c t a t e
Stearamidopropyl morphol ine l a c t a t e
I sos tea ramidopropy l morpho l i ne 1 a c t a t e
Wheat germami dop ropy l d ime thy l - ami ne 1 a c t a t e
C e t y l b e t a i ne
Wheat germamidopropyl b e t a i ne
Cocoamphodiacetate
Cocoami dop ropy l b e t a
Cocoami dop ropy l b e t a
Acetamide MEA
Cocamide DEA
Cocamide MEA
Cocamide DEA
Laurami de DEA
ne
ne
SOURCE
McI n t y r e
M c I n t y r e
Mc I n t y r e
Mc I n t y r e
Mc I n t y r e
Mc I n t y r e
McI n t y r e
M c I n t y r e
McI n t y r e
McI n t y r e
McI n t y r e
McI n t y r e
Mc I n t y r e
Mc I n t y r e
McI n t y r e
Mc I n t y r e
McI n t y r e
Mc I n t y r e
Mc I n t y r e
Mc I n t y r e
Mc I n t y r e
Mc I n t y r e
Trade-Named Raw Materials 505
RAW MATERIALS
Mackanate OM
Mackanate OP
Mackamide PK
Mackami de PKM
Mackamide S
Mackami ne CAO
Mackami ne WGO
Mackanate CP
Mackanate DC-30
Mackanate EL
Mackanate LA
Mackanate LO-Speci a1
Mackanat e WGD
Mackerni urn SDC-25
Mackerni um SDC-85
Mackerni um 007
Mackester EGDS
Mackester SP
Mackine 301
Mackol 70NS
Mackol 16
Mackol 1618
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Disodium oleamido MEA s u l f o - M c I n t y r e s u c c i n a t e
Disodium oleamido M I P A Mc I n t y r e s u l f o s u c c i na te
Palmkernalamide DEA Mc I n t y r e
Palmkernalamide MEA McI n t y r e
Soyamide DEA Mc I n t y r e
Cocami dopropy l ami ne o x i d e McI n t y r e
Wheat germamidopropylamine o x i d e M c I n t y r e
Disodium cocamido M I P A s u l f o - M c I n t y r e s u c c i n a t e
Disodium d imeth icone c o p o l y o l M c I n t y r e s u l f o s u c c i na te
D i sod i um 1 a u r e t h s u l f o s u c c i n a t e M c I n t y r e
D i ammoni um 1 a u r y l s u l f o s u c c i n a t e M c I n t y r e
D i sod i um l a u r y l s u l f o s u c c i n a t e M c I n t y r e
D i sod i um wheatgermami do PEG-2 M c I n t y r e s u l f o s u c c i na te
S t e a r a l koniurn c h l o r i d e
S t e a r a l konium c h l o r i d e
McI n t y r e
Mc I n t y r e
Po lyqua te rn i um 7 Mc I n t y r e
G1 yco l d i s t e a r a t e McI n t y r e
G l y c o l s t e a r a t e m o d i f i e d Mc I n t y r e
Stearami dopropy l D imethy l ami ne M c I n t y r e
Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e Mc I n t y r e
C e t y l a l c o h o l McI n t y r e
C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l Mc I n t y r e
506 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
Mackpearl L V
Mackpro NLP
Mackpro NSP
Macks ta t DM
Macol CPS
Macrospher i ca l 95
Magnabri t e
Magnabr i te S
Maprof i x TLS-500
Marcol 70
Marcol 130
Mar i ne-Dew
Marlamide DF1218
Marlamid M1218
Marlamid PG20
M a r l a z i n KC 30/50
Mar
Mar
Mar
Mar
i n a t CM 105
i n a t DFK 30
i n a t DFN 30
i n a t SL 3/40
Mar l i n a t 242/28
Mar l i n a t 242/70
Mar lon PS65
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Pear l agent
Na tu ra l l i p i d p r o t e i n
01 e y l / p a l m i t y l / p a l m i t o 1 amido- p r o p y l / s i l k hyd roxyp ropy l dimoni um c h l o r i d e
DMDM hydan to in
Po lyoxyethy lene f a t t y e t h e r
Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e
S tab i 1 i z i ng, suspending agent
Magnesi u m a1 umi num s i 1 i c a t e
T r ie thano lamine l a u r y l s u l f a t e
M i n e r a l o i l
M ine ra l o i l
P a r t i a1 1 y deace ty l a ted c h i t i n
Cocamide DEA
Cocamide DEA
Cocamide MEA g l y c o l d i t a l l o w a t e
Cocot r i moni um c h l o r i de
Sodium l a u r e t h - 1 1 c a r b o x y l a t e
Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e
Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e
Disodium l a u r e t h s u l f o s u c c i n a t e
Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
Sodi um C13-C17 a1 kane s u l f o n a t e
SOURCE
Mc I n t y r e
McI n t y r e
McI n t y r e
Mc I n t y r e
PPG
Rehei s
Am C o l l o i d
Wh i tt a ke r
Onyx
Exxon
Exxon
A j i nomoto
Hu ls
Hul s
Hul s
Huls
Hul s
Hul s
Hul s
Hul s
Hul s
Huls
Hu ls
Trade-Named Raw Materials 507
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
Marlophor MOB-acid Laure th-3 phosphate
Marloohor T lONa-sa l t Sodium d i s t e a r e t h - 1 0 phosphate
Mar 1 owet LMA2
Marlowet R l I / K
Marlowet R 4 0 / K
Marlowet TA6
Marlowet TA25
Mas i l SF-V F l u i d
M a s i l 280
Mas i l 656
Maypon 4C
Mazox CAPA
Mearl i n-AC
Merkur 1546
Merquat 100
Merquat 550
Methocel E4M
Methocel F4M
Methocel 40-
Mic ro -d ry
M i croencapsu
00
Laure th-2
P E G - I 1 c a s t o r o i l
PEG-40 c a s t o r o i l
Ceteare th-6
Ceteareth-25
Cyclomethicone
Dimethicone c o p o l y o l
S i 1 i cone
Potass i urn cocoy l -hydro1 yzed c o l 1 agen
Cocarni dopropy l ami ne ox ide
Powdered p e a r l p igment
Vase1 i ne t y p e
Po lyqua te rn i urn-6
Pol yqua te rn i urn-7
Hydroxypropyl m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e
Hydroxypropyl m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e
Hydroxypropyl methy l c e l l u l ose
A 1 umi num c h l o rohyd ra te powder
a ted V i tam in E HC487
M ic ron ized T i02 LA-20 T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e
M i g l y o l Gel B Capry l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e
SOURCE
Hul s
Hul s
Hul s
Hul s
Hu ls
Hul s
Hul s
PPG
PPG
PPG
I n o l e x
PPG
Mearl
Cal gon
Cal gon
Dow
Dow
Dovi
Rehei s
Hul s (and) s t e a r a l konium (and) p ropy lene carbonate h e c t o r i t e
508 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATER I ALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Miglyol 812 Capryl i c/capri c triglyceride
Miglyol 829 Capryl ic/capric/diglyceryl succinate
Miglyol 840 Propylene glycol dicaprylate
Mineral Colloid BP Montmorillonite
Mineral Oil #7
Mineral Oil #9
Miranol C2M Conc. NP Cocoamphocarboxyglycinate
Mi ranol Ester PO-LM4 Polypentaerythri tyl tetra- laurate
Miranol MHT Lauroamphoglycinate (and) t ri decet h sul fate
Mi ranol 2MHT Modified Imidazoline amphoteric
Mi rasheen 202
Mi ratai ne BET C-30 Cocamidopropyl betaine
Mi ratai ne BET 0-30 Oleami dopropyl betai ne
Mirataine CB Surface active agent
Modul an Acetylated lanol in
Monafax 160 Phosphate ester
Monafax 785 Phosphate ester
SOURCE
Huls
Hul s
Huls
ECC
Penreco
Penreco
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Arne r c ho 1
Mona
Mona
Monamate LNT-40 Diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate Mona
Monamid CMA Cocamide MEA Mona
Monami d 1 SOADD Cocamide DEA Mona
Monamid 705 Cocamide DEA Mona
Monarnid 716 Laurami de DEA Mona
Monamid 1089 A1 kanol ami de Mona
Trade-Named Raw Materials 509
RAW MATERIALS
Monami ne 1255
Monamulse DL-1273
Monaquat TG
Monaterge 1164
Mona te r i c CAB
Mona te r i c CLV
Mona te r i c COAB
Mowiol 10-98
M u l s i f a n CPA
M u l s i f a n RT 2 0 3 / 8 0
M u l s i f a n RT275
Mu1 t i wax W-835
Myacide SP
M y r i t o l PG
M y r j 52
M y r j 52s
Myvatex 60
Myvatex Tex tu re L i t e
Myverol 18-06
N a t r o s o l 250 HHR
N a t r o s o l 250 HR
Naturechem GMHS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
A1 kanol ami de Mona
Mona
D ihyd roxye thy l d i h y d r o x y p r o p y l Mona stearammonium c h l o r i d e
Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e (and) Mona d isod ium l a u r y l s u l f o s u c c i n a t e
Cocami dopropy l b e t a i ne
P o l y v i n y l a l c o h o l r e s i n
M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e wax
2 ,4 -d i ch lo robenzy l a l c o h o l
Propy lene g l y c o l d i c a p r y l a t e
Po lyoxe thy lene s t e a r a t e
PEG-50 s t e a r a t e
Emul s i f i e r
Emul s i f i e r
Hydrogenated soy g l y c e r i d e
Hydroxyethy l c e l l u lose
Hydroxyethy l c e l l u l o s e
Castor o i l d e r i v a t i v e
Mona
Mona
Mona
Hoechst
Zschi mmer
Zschi mmer
Zschi mmer
W i t c o
I n o l e x
IC1
I C 1
Eastman
Aqual on
Aqual o n
Caschem
510 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
N a t u r e H a r v e s t 165-050 F r a g r a n c e
Neobee M-5 C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e
Neo H e l i o p a n , AV O c t y l niethoxy c innania te
Neo H e l i o p a n , BB Benzophenone-3
Neo H e l i o p a n , Type El000
Neo H e l i o p a n , Hydro P h e n y l b e n z i m i d a z o l e s u l f o n i c a c i d
Neo H e l i o p a n , MA Menthyl a n t h r a n i l a t e
Neo H e l i o p a n , MBC
Neo H e l i o p a n , O S
Neo H e l i o p a n , 303 O c t o c r y l i n e
Nikkol L e c i n o l S-10-M
Nikkol MYS-55 PEG-55 s t e a r a t e
Nikkol WCB
N i m l e s t e r o l D
Ninol AA-62 E x t r a Foam s t a b i l i z e r
Ninol 49-CE Cocainide D E A
Nipas t a t P a r a b e n s
Novarome DE-47 F r a g r a n c e
Novarome DE5 1 Perfume
Novarome F r a g r a n c e CD-69
N o v i l l e 1184504 F r a g r a n c e
SOURCE
S t r p a n
Ha a r ilia n
Haarman
Haarman
Ha a rnian
Ha a r ilia n
Haarman
Ha a r ilia n
Ha a riii an
Nikkol
Nikko
Nikko
Malnis t roni
S t e p a n
S t e p a n
Nipa
Nova rome
Nova r oine
Novaronie
N o v i l l e
Trade-Named Raw Materials 511
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Oct ip i rox Piroctone alamine
Orgasol 2002D Natural Extra Cos Nylon-12
Oxaban A Preservative
Oxetal VD20
Oxynex K Liquid Antioxidant
Oxynex 2004 Antioxidant
Oxypon 288
Oxypon 328
Oxypon 2145
Oyster Nut Oil
Ozokerite Waxes
Ozokerite Waxes
Ozokerite Waxes
Padimate 0
Panalane
Pan theno 1
Paragon
Parcel MCX
Paricin 9
Parsol HS
Parsol MCX
Parsol 1789
Parsol 5000
Octyl dimethyl PABA
Hydrogenated polyisobutene
D1-Panthenol Cosmetic Grade
DMDM hydantoin (and) methyl paraben
Fatty acid ester
UV-B sunscreen
Octyl methoxycinnamate
UV-A sunscreen
UV-B sunscreen
SOURCE
Hoechst
Atochem
Angus
Z s chi mine r
Z s ch imine r
Z s ch imme r
Zschimmer
Z s ch imme r
Zs chimmer
Koster
Int Wax
Koster
Ross
Amoco
Roche
McIntyre
Givaudan
CasChem
Givaudan
Givaudan
Givaudan
Givaudan
512 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATER I ALS
P a t i o n i c ISL
P a t i o n i c ISL/85
P a t i o n i c SSL
P a t l a c I L
P a t l a c L A (44%)
PC 9043
PC 9044
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Sodi urn i s o s t e a r y l 1 a c t y l a t e
Sodium i s o s t e a r y l l a c t y l a t e @ 8 5 %
Sodium s t e a r o y l l a c t y l a t e
I s o s t e a r y l l a c t a t e
L a c t i c a c i d
S i 1 i cone emu1 s i on
S i 1 i cone emu1 si on
PC 9045 S i 1 i c o n e emu
PC 9046 S i 1 i c o n e emu
PC 9047 S i 1 i cone emu
PC 9048 S i 1 i c o n e emu
PCV 1454 Fragrance
PEG-120 Methy l Glucose D i q l e a t e
s i on
s i on
s i on
s i on
Pemulen TR-I Po l ymer i c emul s i f i e r
Pemulen TR-2 Po lymer i c emul s i f i e r
Permul g i n 3220 Custom blended wax
Penreco M i n e r a l O i l #9
Pepte i n 2000x1 Hydro l yzed c o l l a g e n
P e r f e c t a USP Pe t ro la tum
Perfume D i n a l aya 129,051
Perfume #44575
P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055
Per1 g l anzmi t t e l GM 41 75
Permethyl 104A A1 i p h a t i c hydrocarbon
SOURCE
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
I C 1
I C 1
I C 1
I C 1
I C 1
I C 1
R i t a
Goodri c h
Goodr ich
Kos te r
Penreco
Hormel
W i t c o
F r i t s c h e
Zschi mmer
Zschi mmer
Pe rme t h y 1
Trade-Named Raw Materials 513
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
P e r t Type #189-724 Fragrance
Pe t ro la tum A lba
Per1 g l anzmi t t e l GM4175
Phenoni p
P h o s f e t a l 201 K
Phosphol i p i d EFA B iomimet i c p h o s p h o l i p i d
Phosphol i p i d PTC B i omi me t i c phosphol i p i d
P h o s p h o l i p i d SV B i omi met i c phosphol i p i d
Phospho te r i c PTC
Phospho te r i c QL-38 T r i s o d i u m lauroampho PG a c e t a t e phosphate c h l o r i d e
Pigment p a s t e w h i t e : N r . 93975 Pigment p a s t e y e l l o w : N r . 75577 Pigment p a s t e r e d : N r . 68775 Pigment p a s t e b l a c k : N r . 78375
P l u r o n i c F-127 Po lyoxya l ky lene g l y c o l b l o c k polymer
PNC 400 Sodi urn carbomer
Pol awax E m u l s i f y i n g wax NF
Polawax A-31 E m u l s i f y i n g wax NF
P o l y a l d o 10-1-5 P o l y g l y c e r y l - I O s t e a r a t e
Po l y a l do 10-6-0 P o l y g l y c e r y l - 1 0 hexao lea te
Polymer J R 400
Po lyox WSR Water s o l u b
Polyquta-400 Po lyqua te rn
Po lyqu ta 3000 Po lyqua te rn
e r e s i n
um-IO
urn-10
SOURCE
W i t c o
Zschi mmer
Ni pa
Zschi mmer
Mona
Mona
Mona
Mona
Mona
BASF
3v
Croda
Croda
Lonza
Lonza
Union Carb
Union Carb
R i t a
R i t a
514 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
P o l y s o r b a t e 60
Pol y s y n l ane
P r i s o r i n e 3505
P r i s o r i n e 3515
P r i s o r i ne 9083
P r o c e t y l AWS
Prodew 100
Promoi s W-32
Promoi s WK
Promoi s WK-HQ
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Po lyoxye thy lene (20) s o r b i t a n monostearate
Hydrogenated p o l y i s o b u t e n e
G1 y c e r i ne
G1 yce r i ne
G1 yce r i ne
PPG-5 C e t e t h 20
S o r b i t o l & Sodium L a c t a t e & P r o l i n e & Sodium PCA & Hydro lyzed Co l lagen
Hydro lyzed c o l l a g e n
Hydro lyzed k e r a t i n
Hydroxypropy l t r i moni um hydro1 yzed k e r a t i n
SOURCE
I C 1
Po lyes the r
Uni chema
Unichema
Uni chema
Croda
A j i nomoto
R i t a
R
R
Promulgen D C e t e a r y l Alcohol(and)Ceteareth-20
t a
t a
Ame r c ho 1
Promyri s t y l PM3 PPG-3 myr i s t y l e t h e r
Prona lan A n t i c e l l u l i t e
P r o p e l l a n t A-46 Hydrocarbon p r o p e l l a n t
P r o p o l i s Wax
Pro tope t 1s P e t r o l a t u m
Pro tope t 2A Pe t ro la tum
Pro tox T-25 E thoxy l a t e d ami ne
Purasa l S/SP 60% Sodi u m l a c t a t e
Pur . Navy B lue #7110
Pur Oxy Ye l l ow BC & Pur Oxy B lack BC Pigment
Croda
Cent e r c hem
Kos te r
W i t c o
W i t c o
Protomeen
Purac Amer
Whi t t a k e r
Trade-Named Raw Materials 515
RAW MATER I ALS
Pur ton CFD
Pur ton SFD
PVP-K-30 PV P
P y r o t e r CPI-40
P y r o t e r GPI-25
Raluben TL
Resyn 26-1 31 4
Resyn 28-291 3
Resyn 28-2930
Rewomi d S-280
Rezal 36G
Rezal 36GP
Rheolate 5000
Rhodacal A-246/L
Rhodapex MA-360
Rhodapon L-22
Rhodapon LSB
Rhodapon LT-6
Rhodapon SB 8208/S
Rhodapon 21 LS
Rhodi g e l
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Zschi mmer
Zschi mmer
ISP
A j i nomoto
A j i nomoto
H a i r spray polymer
H a i r spray polymer
H a i r spray polymer
A1 Z r t e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x , g l y
A 1 Z r t e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x , g l y Super u l t r a f i n e ,
Acry la te /Va copolymer
E ther s u l f a t e
A1 k y l s u l f a t e
A1 k y l s u l f a t e
A1 k y l s u l f a t e
A1 k y l s u l f a t e
A1 k y l s u l f a t e
Xanthan gum
Rhodorsi 1 O i 1s 70041 VO. 65
Rhodors i l 700 45V2 Cyclomethicone
Raschi g
Nat S t a r c h
Nat S t a r c h
Nat S tarch
Rewo
Rehei s
Rehei s
Rehei s
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
V a n d e r b i l t
Rhone
Rhone
516 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
R i c e Bran O i l F i l t e r e d Kos te r
R i t a b a t e 20
R i ta-BTAC
R i t a CA
R i t a c e t - 20
R i t a - C e t e a r y l 70 /30
R i t a c e t i
R i t a c e t y l
R i t a c h o l
R i t a c h o l I 0 0 0
R i t a c h o l 2000
R i t a c h o l 5000
R i ta-CTAC
R i taderm
R i t a EGDS
R i t a EGMS
R i t a GC
R i t a GMS
R i t a h y d r o x
R i t a l an
R i t a l a n AWS
R i t a l a n C
R i t a l a s t i n EL30
P o l y s o r b a t e 20
Behentr i moni um c h l o r i de
C e t y l a l c o h o l
Ceteareth-20
C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l
C e t y l e s t e r s
A c e t y l a t e d 1 anol i n
M i n e r a l o i l and l a n o l i n
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
a l c o h o l R i t a
R i t a C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l (and) p o l y - s o r b a t e 60 (and) PEG-150 s t e a r a t e (and) s tea re th -20
R . I .T .A . b l e n d
R . I . T . A . b l e n d
Cetr imonium c h l o r i d e
P e t r o l a t u m (and) sodium PCA (and)
G l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e
G l y c o l s t e a r a t e
Guanid ine ca rbona te
G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e
Hydroxy la ted 1 anol i n
a n o l i n (and p o l y s o r b a t e
L a n o l i n o i
PPG-12-PEG
R . I . T . A . b
Hydro1 yzed
65 l a n o
end
e l a s t i n
i n o i l
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a 85
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
Trade-Named Raw Materials 51 7
RAW MATERIALS
R i t a l o e 4OX
R i t a l o e 200M
R i tam ide C
R i tapan D
R i tapan DL
R i tapeg 1500s
R i taphenone 3
R i t a p r o 165
R i t a p r o 200
R i t a SA
R i ta-SBC
R i ta-STAC
R i t a s y n t IP
R i tavena-5
R i tawax
Ritawax ALA
R i t o l e t h 5
R i t o l e t h - 1 0
R i t o x 35
Robane
Rosemary Speci a1
Rosswaxes
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
A loe v e r a g e l
A l o e v e r a g e l
Cocamide DEA
d-Panthenol
d l -Pan theno l
PEG-150 d i s t e a r a t e
Benzophenone-3
R , I .T.A. b l e n d
R . I . T . A . b l e n d
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l
S t e a r a l konium c h l o r i d e
S t e a r t r i moni um c h l o r i d e
G l y c o l s t e a r a t e and o t h e r s
Hydro l yzed o a t f l o u r
Lanol i n a l c o h o l
R . I . T . A . b l e n d
O le th -5
01 eth-10
Laureth-23
Squal ane
Waxes
SOURCE
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
R i t a
Robeco
Dragoco
Ross
518 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Salon #169-122 Fragrance
Sandopan DTC Acid Trideceth-7-carboxylic acid
Sandobet SC Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultai ne
Sandoxylate SX-424 PPG-2-isodeceth-12
Setacin 103 Special
SF 18 (350) silicone Dimethicone
Shea Butter
Shebu Shea butter
Shebu WS PEG-50 shea butter
Shellsol T Petroleum di sti 1 1 ates
Shellsol 71 Petroleum distillates
Sicomet Black 80 C.I. 77499
Sicomet Brown 70 C.I. 77491
Sicomet Brown 75 C.I. 77491
Sicomet Patentblau BOE 131 Patent Blue
Si 1 i cone 200/100
Silicone Fluid DC-200 (200 cps)
Silicone Fluid 225
Silicone Fluid 344 and 345 (Volatile)
Si 1 ki ence Type #169-120 Fragrance
Si 1 i cony1 Beeswax
Siltex -50 +lo0 Mesh Fused silica
Si mchi n Ref i ned Jojoba oil
Sipon ES Sodium lauryl ether sulfate
SOURCE
Sandoz
Sandoz
Sandoz
Zschi mm-
Dow Corn
Koster
Rita
Rita
Shel
Shel
BAS F
BASF
BASF
BASF
Dow Corn
Dow Corn
Dow Corn
Dow Corn
Koster
Kaopol
Rita
Rhone
Trade-Named Raw Materials 519
S o f t
S o f t
S o f t
RAW MATERIALS
Sipon ES-2
Sipon ESY
S i ponate DD8-40
Sipon LCP
SL 79-1224
S o f t i g e n 701
S o f t i g e n 767
san 100
san 154
san 378
S o f t i s a n 601
S o f t i s a n 645 & 649
So la r Chem 0
S o l t r o l 100
So lu lan PB5
S o l u l a n 16
So lu lan 25
S o l u l a n 98
S o l u v i t CLR
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
A1 k y l a r y l s u l f o n a t e
Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e
Herbal f rag rance
G l y c e r y l r i c i n o l e a t e
PEG-6 c a p r y l i c / c a p r i c g l y- c e r i des
Hydrogenated coco -g l yce r ides
Hydrogenated palm o i l
Capryl i c / c a p r i c / s t e a r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e
G l y c e r y l cocoate (and) hydro- genated cocoanut o i l (and) ce teare th-25
B i s - d i g l y c e r y l c a p r y l a t e / caprate/isostearate/hydroxy- s t e a r a t e a d i p a t e
~ 9 - 1 1 i s o p a r a f f i n
SOURCE
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
Rhone
PFW
Hul s
Hul s
Huls
Hu ls
Hul s
Huls
Hul s
Caschem
Phi 11 i p s
A1 koxy l a ted 1 anol i n d e r i v a t i v e Amerchol
Laneth-16 & c e t e t h 16 & Arne r c ho 1 o l e t h - 1 6 & s tea re th -16
Laneth-25 & ce te th -25 & Amer c ho 1 o l e t h - 2 5 & s t e a r e t h - 2 5
Po lyso rba te 80, a c e t y l a t e d Amerchol 1 anol i n a1 coho1 , c e t y l a c e t a t e
CLR
520 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
Sorbo
Span 60
Span 65
Span 80
Spermwax
Sp icy Lime #4851-AN
S&P Whi te NF 422P
S&P #1 Ye l low 73
S&P 18
S&P 75
Span 40
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
Sorb i t o 1 s o l u t i on, USP
E m u l s i f y i n g agent
E m u l s i f y i n g agent
Emu1 s i f y i ng agent
S y n t h e t i c spermacet i
Fragrance
Beeswax
Carnauba wax
M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne wax
Candel i 11 a wax
S o r b i t a n monopalmi t a t e
Standapo
Standapo
Standapo
ES-2 Sodi um
ES-3 Sodi urn
WAQ-LC Sodi urn
Squeeky Clean #165-047 Fragrance
Standapol EA-2 Ammonium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
Standapol E S - I Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
au re th -2 s u l f a t e
aure th-3 s u l f a t e
a u r y l s u l f a t e
Stepanol AM Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e
S t i n g i n g N e t t l e Spec ia l
Super Corona Luxury USP l a n o l i n
Supersat AWS-4 PEG-20 hydrogenated l a n o l i n
Syncrowax ERCL C18-36 a c i d g l y c o l e s t e r
Syncrowax HGLC C1B-36 a c i d t r i g l y c e r i d e
S i l i c o n O i l AK500
SOURCE
I C 1
IC1
IC1
I C 1
Robeco
I F F
I C 1
Henkel
Hen k e l
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Stepan
Dragoco
Croda
R i t a
Croda
Croda
sws
Trade-Named Raw Materials 521
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N SOURCE
Sipon ES2 Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e Rhone
Sedermasome Soy l e c i t h i n
S M D I Pol yo1 prep01 ymer -2 PPG- 12
S o f t i s a n 378
Sol u lan-75
Spec t rapear l BLG
S p e c t r a v e i l TG
Spect rave i 1 9O/MOTG
SS4267
Standamid KO
Standamide T
Standapol ES-l&ES-2
Standapol ES-3
Standapo T
Standapo WAQ&WAQ-SP
Sul f e t a l KT400
S u l f e t a l TC50
Sunarome OMC
Super Amide L-9
Super H a r t o l an
C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c / s t e a r i c Hul s t r i g l y c e r i d e
PEG 7 5 l a n o l i n Arne r c ho 1
Pear l escent pigment I S P
U l t r a - f i n e ZnO T i o x i de
U l t r a - f i n e Zn0(40% s o l i d s D i s p ) T i o x i d e
D i meth i cone and t r i methyl - s i l o x y s i l i c a t e
Cocamide DEA
Tea ls
Sodi um l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
Sodi um l a u r e t h s u l f a t e 2890
TEA- laury l s u l f a t e
Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e
Coconut f a t t y a c i d d i e t h a n o l ami de
L a n o l i n a l c o h o l
GE S i l i c o n e
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Henkel
Zschi mmer
Zschi mmer
Fe l t o n
Onyx
Croda
Super Re f ined Babassu O i l
Super Re f ined Wheat Germ O i l
Super S t e r o l E s t e r C10-30 C h o l e s t e r o l / L a n e s t e r o l E s t e r s
522 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
SOURCE RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Super Whi te Pe t ro la tum USP
S u t t o c i d e A Sodi um hydroxymethyl g l y c i na te Su t ton
Syncrowax A w l - C S y n t h e t i c wax Croda
Syncrowax HGL-C C18-36 a c i d t r i g l ycer i de Croda
S y n t h e t i c Beeswax JH-1508 Ross
TABS-D
Tagat S
Takasago
T a l c Supra A
Tamol N
Tapioca F1 ou r
Teg in M
Teg in T4753
Tegobetai ne L-7
Teg. "P"
Tenox & Tenox 4
Tenox BHA
Tensagex EOC-670
Terg i t o 1 NP-10
T e r r y AGO02
T i caxan
Timbuktu 0/186901
T i m i r o n MP-10
G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e
Organi c emu1 s i f i e r
Cocami dopropy l b e t a i ne
A n t i o x i d a n t
BHA
S u r f a c t a n t
A loe ve ra ge l
Xanthan gum
Fragrance
I n t e r f e r e n c e pigment
Union Camp
Goldschmidt Sol ub i 1 i zer
Fragrance
Premium t a l c , coarse ground Cyprus
D ispe rsan t Rohm&Haas
Nat S ta rch
Go1 dschmi d t
Go1 dschmi d t
Goldschmidt
Go1 dschmi d t
Eastman
Eastman
I C 1
Union Carb
T e r r y
T i c Gums
Rona Pear l
Trade-Named Raw Materials 523
RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Tiiniron Pearl Sheen MP-30 I n t e r f e r e n c e Pigment
Timiron S u p e r Red I n t e r f e r e n c e Pigment
T i o v e i i AQ/FIN/MOTG U l t r a - f i n e t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e
TL-10 PEG-20 s o r b i t a n m o n o l a u r a t e
Tocophero l
Toiiiah A 0 - 7 2 8 S p e c i a l
T r i t i s o l S o l u b l e wheat p r o t e i n
T r i v e n t NP-13 & SS-20 T r i d e c y l n e o p e n t a n o a t e
T r y c o l 5963 Ester
Tween 20 P o l y s o r b a t e 20
Tween 40 P o l y s o r b a t e 4 0
Tween 6 0 P o l y s o r b a t e 60
Tween 6 1 P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e s o r b i t a n iiionos t e a r a t e
Tween 80 P o l y s o r b a t e 8 0
Tween 8 1 P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e s o r b i t a n inonoolea t e
Tween 85 E m u l s i f y i n g a g e n t
U n i p e r t a n P - 2 4
Usnat A0
U v i n u l E-40
Uvinul MS-40
Uvinul 0-18
A n t i - d a n d r u f f
Benzophenone-3
Benzophenone-4
O c t y l s a l i c y l a t e
SOURCE
Rona
Rona
T i o x i d e
R i t a
Tomah
Croda
T r i v e n t
Henkel
I C 1
I C 1
IC1
I C 1
I C 1
I C 1
I C 1
L ip0
BASF
BASF
BASF
524 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
Vancl ay
Van Gel B
Vanox PCX
Vanseal CS
Vanseal NACS-30
Vansael NALS-30
Veegurn/F/HV/Pro/ Regul ar/U1 t r a
Velsan P8-3
Veragel
Veragel
Veragel
Versa ty
Versene
L i q u i d
L i q u i d 1 : l
2 0 0 Powder
-42
NA
Versene-220
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
K a o l i n
BHT
Sarcos ina te s u r f a c t a n t
Sodi urn cocoy l s a r c o s i na te
Sarcos ina te s u r f a c t a n t
Magnesi um a1 umi nurn s i 1 i c a t e
I s o p r o p y l C12-15 Pareth-9- Carboxyl a t e
A loe ve ra g e l
A loe ve ra ge l
A loe ve ra
H a i r spray PO
D i sod i urn EDTA
C h e l a t i n g agent
ymer
V i tam in A P a l m i t a t e Type PIMO/BH
V i t a m i n E Tocopherol
V i tam in E Ace ta te Tocopherol a c e t a t e
V o l a t i l e S i l i c o n e 7207 Cyclomethicone
Volpo 3 01 e th -3
Volpo 5 01 e th -5
Volpo s-2 S tea re th -2
V O l D O s-10 Steare th-10
SOURCE
Vanderbi 1 t
V a n d e r b i l t
Vanderbi 1 t
V a n d e r b i l t
V a n d e r b i l t
V a n d e r b i l t
V a n d e r b i l t
Sandoz
D r . Madis
D r . Madis
D r . Madis
Nat S ta rch
Dow
Dow
Croda
Croda
Croda
Croda
Trade-Named Raw Materials 525
RAW MATERIALS
Wachsemulsion 1864
Wheat Germ O i l
Whi te Jo joba O i l
Whi te P ro tope t
Whi te P ro tope t I S
Wickenol 163
Wickenol 386
W i t c o n a t e AOS
Ye l l ow BC I r o n Oxides
2-Cote
Ze teso l MS
Ze teso l NL
Ze teso l 856T
Ze teso l 2056
Zusol a t 1005/85
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE
Zschi mmer
R i t a
Ross
P e t r o l a t u m P e t r o l i t e
P e t r o l a t u m P e t r o l i t e
D i o c t y l a d i p a t e (and) o c t y l Caschem s t e a r a t e (and) o c t y l p a l m i t a t e
Alumi num z i r c o n i um t e t r a - Caschem c h l o r o h y d r e x G l y
Sodium C14-16 o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e Wi t co
Warner
Sun Smart
Zschimmer
Zschi mmer
Zschimmer
Zschi mmer
Zschi mmer
Suppliers' Addresses 527
Aj inomoto USA, I n c . G lenpo in t C t r . W 500 Frank W. B u r r B l v d . Teaneck, NJ 07645 (201)-907-3244
Akzo Chemicals, I n c . 300 S . R i v e r s i d e P laza Chicago, I L 60606 (312)-906-7500
A l l i e d S i g n a l , I n c . P . O . Box 2332R M o r r i stown, NJ 07962 (201)-455-2000
A l p i n e Aromat ics I n t ' l I n c . 51 E t h e l R d . W Piscataway, NJ 08854 (908)-572-5600
Amerchol Corp. P .O. Box 4051 136 Talmadge Rd. Edison, NJ 08818 (908)-248-6000
American C o l l o i d Co. Hwy 212W B e l l e Fourche, S D 57717
American L e c i t h i n C o , 33 Turner Rd. P . O . Box 1908 Danbury, CT 06813
(605)-892-2591
(203)-790-2700
Amoco Chemical C o , 200 E. Randolph D r . Chicago, I L 60601 (312)-856-3200/(800)-621-4567
Angus Chemical Co. 1500 E . Lake Cook Rd. B u f f a l o Grove, I L 60089 (708)-215-8600/(800)-323-6209
Aqua1 on 1313 N . Market S t . Wi lm ing ton , DE 19899 (302)-594-5000/(800)-345-8104
Atochem N o r t h America 900 M i l k S t . C a r t a r e t , NJ 07008 (908) -541 -441 4
BASF Corp. 100 Cher ry H i l l Rd. Pa rs i ppany, NJ 07054 (201 ) -316-3000 / (800 ) -526-1072
Berne l Chemical Co., I n c . 174 Grand Ave. Englewood, NJ 07631 (201)-569-8934
Brooks I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . 70 T y l e r P lace South P l a i n f i e l d , NJ 07080 (908)-561-5200
Buckman L a b o r a t o r i e s I n t ' l I n c . 1256 N . McLean B l v d . Memphis, TN 38108 (901)-278-0330/(800)-727-2772
Cabot Corp. Cab-0-Si 1 D i v . R te . 36W Tusco la , I L 61953 (217)-253-3370/(800)-222-6745
Calgon Corp. P . O . Box 1346 P i t t s b u r g h , PA 15230 (41 2) -777-8000
CasChem, I n c . 40 Avenue A Bayonne, NJ 07002 (201)-858-7900/(800)-CAS-CHEM
528 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Centerchem, I n c . 225 High Ridge R d . Stamford, CT 06905 (203)-975-9800
C i ba-Gei gy Corp. 410 Swing Rd. Greensboro, NC 27419 (919)-632-7327/(800)-221-0453
CLE I n c . 11220 Grader S t , D a l l a s , TX 75238 (214)-341-4949/(800)-638-7947
CLR: D r . K . R i c h t e r GmbH Chemi sches L a b o r a t o r i um Benn igons t rabe 25, D-I000 B e r l i n
Croda, I n c . 7 Century D r . Pars ippany , N J 07054 (201)-644-4900
C y c l o Produc ts I n c . 1922 E. 64 S t . Los Angeles, CA 90001 (21 3) -582-641 1
Cyprus I n d u s t r i a1 M i n e r a l s P .0 , Box 3419 Englewood, CO 80155 (800)-325-0299
Degussa Corp. 65 Chal lenger R d . R i d g e f i e l d Park, NJ 07660 (201 ) -641 -61 00
Dow Chemical USA 2020 Dow Center Mid land, M I 48674 (800)-258-CHEM
Dow Corn ing Corp. Box 0994 Mid land, M I 48686 (51 7 ) -496-4000
Dragoco, I n c . 10 Gorden D r i v e Totowa, NJ 07512 (201)-256-3850
Eastman Chemical Co. P . O . Box 431 K i n g s p o r t , TN 37662 (615)-229-4006/(800j-EASTMAN
ECC America 5775 Peachtree-Dunwoody R d . A t l a n t a , GA 30342 (800)-843-3222
Exxon Chemi c a l Amer i cas 13501 Katy Frwy Houston, T X 77079 ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ - ~ ~ o - ~ o o o ~ ~ R o o ~ - ~ ~ ~ - ~ ~ ~ ~ Fanning Corp. 2450 W. Hubbard S t Chicago, I L 60612 (312)-563-1234
F e l t o n Worldwide 599 Johnson Ave. B r o o k l y n , NY 11237
F i n e t e x , I n c . 418 Falmouth Ave. Elmwood Park, N J 07407 (201 ) -797-4686
F l o r i d a Food Produc ts I n c . 2231 W . Hwy 44 E u s t i s , FL 32726 (904)-357-4141
F r i t s c h e Dodge & O l c o t t I n c . 76 N i n t h Ave. New York, NY 10011 (212)-929-4100/(800)-221-7095
GE S i 1 i c o n e s 260 Hudson R i v e r R d . W a t e r f o r d , NY 12188 (518)-237-3330/(800)-255-8886
Suppliers' Addresses 529
Givaudan-Roure Corp. 100 Delawanna Ave. C l i f t o n , N J 07015 (201)-365-8000
Go1 dschmi d t Chemical Corp. 914 E . Randolph Rd. Hopewel l , VA 23860 (804) -541-8658 / (800 ) -445-1809
B . F . Goodr ich Co. 991 1 B recksv i 1 l e Rd. C leve land , OH 44141 (216) -447-5000 / (800 ) -331-1144
Haarman & Reimer Corp. 60 Diamond Rd. S p r i n g f i e l d , N J 07091 (201) -912-5707 / (800 ) -432-1559
Hampshi r e Chemi c a l Co. 55 Hayden Ave. Lex ing ton , MA 02173
Henkel Corp. 11501 N o r t h l a k e D r . C i n c i n n a t i , OH 45299 (513) -530-7300 / (800 ) -543-7370
Hoechst Cel anese Corp. 3340 W . N o r f o l k Rd. Portsmouth, VA 23703 (804)-483-7530/(800)-526-4960
Hormel P.O. Box 800 A u s t i n , MN 55912
Hu ls America, I n c . 80 Cen tenn ia l D r . P i scataway, NJ 08854
Humko Chemical D i v . W i t co Corp. 755 Crossover Lane Memphis, TN 38117 (901)-684-7047
(507)-437-5676
(908)-980-6946/(800)-526-0339
I C 1 Americas I n c . Concord P ike & New Murphy Rd. W i l m i ngton, DE 19897 ( 3 0 2 ) - 5 7 5 - 3 0 3 4 / ( 8 0 0 ) - 8 2 2 - 8 2 1 5
I keda Corp. New Mexico B l d g . 3-1, Mar unouc h i 3-Chome Chiyoda-Ku, Tokyo 100, Japan 03-321 2-8791
I n o l e x Chemical Co. Jackson & Swanson S t s . P h i l a d e l p h i a , PA 19148 ( 2 1 5 ) - 2 7 1 - 0 8 0 0 / ( 8 0 0 ) - 5 2 1 - 9 8 9 1
ISP: I n t e r n a t i o n a l S p e c i a l t y Prod 1361 A l p s Rd. Wayne, NJ 07470 (201) -628-3000 / (800 ) -848-7659
I F F : I n t e r n a t i o n a l F l a v o r s & Fragrances
521 W . 5 7 S t . New York, NY 10019 (212)-765-5500
K a o p o l i t e I n c . 2444 M o r r i s Ave. Union, NJ 07083 (908)-789-0609
Ke lco D i v . Merck & Co., I n c . 8355 Aero D r i v e San Diego, CA 92123 (619) -292-4900/ (800) -535-2656
Koster-Keunen, I n c . P.O. Box 447 90 Bourne B l v d . S a y v i l l e , NY 11782 (51 6 ) -589-0456
Lanaetex P roduc ts , I n c . 151 3 Ave. E l i z a b e t h , NJ 07206 (908)-351-9700
530 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Laure l I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . 29525 Chagr in B l v d . C leve land, OH 44122 (216)-831-5747/(800)-221-1304
L i p 0 Chemicals, I n c . 207 1 9 t h Ave. Paterson, NJ 07504 (201)-345-8600
Lonza, I n c . 17-17 Rte. 208 F a i r Lawn, NJ 07410 (201)-794-2400/(800)-777-1875
D r . Madis Labs I n c . 375 Huy le r S t . South Hackensack, NJ 07606
M c I n t y r e Group L t d . 1000 Governors Hwy. U n i v e r s i t y Park, I L 60466
(201)-440-5000
(708)-534-6200
Mearl Corp. 41 E. 42 S t . New York, NY 10017 (21 2)-573-8500
Mobay Corp. Mobay R d . P i t t s b u r g h , PA 15205
Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . 76 E . 24 St. P . O . Box 425 Paterson, NJ 07544
(412)-777-2000/(800)-662-2927
(201)-345-8220
M o r f l e x I n c . 2110 High P o i n t Rd. Greensboro, NC 27403 (919)-292-1781
Morton I n t e r n a t i o n a l , I n c . 150 Andover S t . Danvers, MA 01923 (508)-774-3100
N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemical Co 10 F inderne Ave. B r idgewate r , NJ 08807 (908)-685-5000/(800)-532-1115
Nipa L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . 104 Hagley B ldg . Concord P1 aza 3411 S i l v e r s i d e Rd. Wi lming ton , DE 19810 (302)-478-1522
Novarome I n c . 30 Stewar t P1, F a i r f i e l d , NJ 07004 (201)-575-4550
N o v i l l e E s s e n t i a l O i l Co. 1312 F i f t h S t . No r th Bergen, NJ 07047 (201)-867-9060
Pen reco 138 P e t r o l i a S t . Karns C i t y , PA 16041 (412)-283-5600/(800)-245-3952
P e t r o l i t e Corp. 6910 E . 14 S t . Tu lsa , OK 74112 (91 8) -836-1 601
P h i l l i p s 66 Co. 376 P h i l l i p s B ldg . Annex B a r t 1 e s v i 11 e, OK 74004 (806)-274-5236/(800)-858-4327
Po lyes the r Corp. 61 H i l l S t . P . O . Drawer 5076 Southampton, NY 11969 (516)-2a3-4400
PPG I n d u s t r i e s 3938 P o r e t t D r i v e Gurnee, I L 60031 (708)-244-3410/(8OO)-CHEM-PPG
Suppliers' Addresses 531
Purac America I n c . 1 1 1 Barc lay B l v d . L i n c o l n s h i r e Corpora te Center L i n c o l n s h i r e , I L 60069 (708)-634-6330
Raschi g Corp. P . O . Box 7656 Richmond, VA 23231 (804)-222-9516
Reheis, I n c , 235 Snyder Ave. Be rke ley He igh ts , NJ 07922 (908)-464-1500
Rheox, I n c . Wyckoff M i l l s Rd. H igh ts town, N J 08520 (609)-443-2320
RITA Corp. 1725 K i 1 kenny Woodstock, I L 60098 (ai5)-337-250o/(soo)-4~6-77~9
Rhone Poulenc I n c . Prospect P l a i n s Rd. Cranbury, NJ 08512 (609)-860-4000
Robeco I n c a 99 Park Ave. New York, NY 10016 (212)-986-6410
Rober te t I n c . 125 Bauer D r . Oakland, NJ 07436
Roche Chemical D i v i s i on Hoffman-LaRoche, I n c . N u t l e y , NJ 07110
Rohm & Haas Co. Independence M a l l W P h i l a d e l p h i a , PA 19105
(201)-337-7100
(201)-235-8077/(800)-526-0189
(215)-592-3000
Rona EM I n d u s t r i e s 5 S k y l i n e D r i v e Hawthorne, NY 10532 (914)-592-4660
Sandoz Chemi c a l s Corp. 4000 Monroe R d . C h a r l o t t e , NC 28205 (704)-331-7234/(800)-631-8077
S h e l l Chemical Co. P.O. Box 2463 Houston, TX 77002 (71 3)-241-6161
Stepan Co. 22 W . F ron tage Rd. N o r t h f i e l d , I L 60093 (708)-446-7500
Sun Chemical Corp. 411 Summit Ave. C i n c i nnat i , OH (513)-661-5950
Sun Smart I n c . P.O. Box 1451 Wai n s c o t t , NY (51 6)-324-8061
45232 (800)-343-2583
1975
S u t t o n L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . 116 Summit Ave. C i n c i n n a t i , OH 45232 (513)-681-5950/(800)-343-2583
T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . 390 N. Wickham Rd. P . O . Box 566 Melbourne, FL 32935 (407)-259-1630/(800)-367-2563
T I C Gums I n c . 4609 R i c h l y n n D r . Belcamp, MD 21017 (41 0) -273-7300
532 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
T i o x i d e S p e c i a l t i e s L t d . B i 11 i ngham, C leve land TS23 1 PS U n i t e d K i ngdom 0642-370300
Tomah Produc ts 1012 T e r r a D r i v e M i l t o n , W I 53563 (608)-868-6811
T r i v e n t Chemical Co, 45 Ridge R d . P.O. Box 597 South R i v e r , NJ 08882 (908)-251-1116
3V I n c . 1500 Harbor B l v d . Weehawken, N J 07087 (201)-865-3600
Unichema N o r t h America 4650 S . Racine Ave. Chicago, I L 60609 (312)-376-9000/(800)-833-2864
Union Camp Corp. 1600 V a l l e y Rd. Wayne, NJ 07470 (201 )-628-2660
Un ion Carb ide Chemicals and
39 O l d Ridgebury Rd. Danbury, CT 06817
P1 a s t i c s
(203)-794-5300
R.T. V a n d e r b i l t Co. I n c 30 W i n f i e l d S t . P.O. Box 5150 Norwalk, CT 06856 (203)-853-1400
Van Dyk Main & W i l l i a m S t s . B e l l e v i l l e , NJ 07109 (201 )-450-3264
V i s t a Chemical Co. P.O. Box 19029 900 Threadneedle Houston, TX 77224 (713)-588-3000/(800)-231-3216
Wacker S i l i c o n e s Corp. 3301 Su t ton Rd. Ad r ian , M I 49221 (517)-264-8500/(800)-248-0063
Warner Jenkinson Cosmetic Co lo rs 155 He len St. South P l a i n f i e l d , NJ 07080 (800)-543-4524
Welch, Holme & C l a r k Co. 7 Avenue L Newark, NJ 07105 (201 )-465-1200
W h i t t a k e r , C l a r k & Dan ie l s , I n c . 1000 Coo l idge S t . South P l a i n f i e l d , NJ 07080 (908)-561-6100
Wi tco Corp. ( A l l Groups) 1)Oleo S u r f a c t a n t s Group 2)Pet ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group 3)Polymer A d d i t i v e s Group 520 Madison Ave. New York , NY 10022 (212)-605-3600
Zschimmer & Schwarz P . O . Box 2179 D-5420 Lahnste in , West Germany