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INTERNATIONAL EDITION | THURSDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2016

COMING CLEANRUSSIA ADMITSDOPING IN SOCHIPAGE 13 | SPORTS

A BET ON VINYLLABEL PREDICTSFUTURE OF JAZZPAGE 14 | CULTURE

FRANCA SOZZANIA WORLDVIEW THATWENT BEYOND FASHIONPAGE 6 | STYLE

The race for a Zika vaccine, one of themost pressing priorities in globalhealth, is at full throttle. More than adozen companies and governmentinstitutions are working to unlock thesecrets of the virus, and a vaccinecould be available as early as 2018.

But available to whom? If history isany guide, impoverished communitiesin Africa are likely to be the last in line.And this despite a mounting body ofevidence that, contrary to the prevail-ing wisdom, poor families in Africamight bear the greatest burden of thedisease.

Indeed, much of what we have takenfor granted about Zika — that it is athreat unique to the Western Hemi-sphere; that it may only recently have

evolved theability to causemicrocephalyand brain dam-age in babies;and that it hasn’thurt women andchildren in Africa— is now inserious doubt.

We know thatZika was firstidentified inUganda, in 1947,and that the firstdocumentedurban outbreakof the virusoccurred in

Libreville, the capital of Gabon, in 2007.We know that African strains of Zika —which can probably be transmittedsexually and from mother to child —are present in at least 25 countriesacross the continent. And we knowthat Guinea-Bissau, the only mainlandAfrican nation to send Zika testingresults to the World Health Organiza-tion in 2016, has reported three micro-cephalic babies with clinical data sug-gesting Zika exposure.

Most worrisome, though, is whatwe’ve learned from laboratory investi-gations over the past year. So far, atleast 16 studies published in scientificjournals have demonstrated that Af-rican strains of Zika can cause thesame kinds of cellular damage we’veseen in the Americas. According to onestudy by French virologists, a strain ofZika isolated in the Central AfricanRepublic was twice as deadly to brainstem cells as the variant circulating inBrazil.

Brazilian geneticists reported thatthe mutations that have taken placebetween different strains of Zika do notseem to have altered the virus’s abilityto cause microcephaly, which theybelieve may be a universal “feature of

Africa losesin quest for Zika vaccine

OPINION

Far from being a threatunique to the WesternHemisphere,the virus is endemicto Africa. But that’s not where resourcesare going.

ADAMS, PAGE 12

Patrick AdamsCameron Nutt

Carrie Fisher was the child of a show-business family. “The daughter of fa-mous parents,” she wrote in her memoir“Wishful Drinking,” which originated asa one-woman show. “One an icon, theother a consort to icons.”

She entered popular culture as a prin-cess in peril and endures as somethingmuch more complicated and interest-ing. Many things, really: a rebel com-mander; a witty internal critic of the ce-lebrity machine; a teller of comic tales,true and embellished; an inspiring andcautionary avatar of excess and resil-ience; an emblem of the honesty wecrave (and so rarely receive) from be-loved purveyors of make-believe.

When I heard the news of Ms. Fisher’sdeath on Tuesday, what immediatelypopped into my mind was not “StarWars” but “Rosemary’s Baby” — thatunforgettable episode from Season 2 of“30 Rock,” in which she turns up as a leg-endary and colossally difficult televi-sion writer, Rosemary Howard.

Liz Lemon, the present-day televisionwriter played (and created) by Tina Fey,idolizes Rosemary, seeing her as a pio-neer and a spiritual mother. But evensymbolic mother-daughter relation-ships have a way of turning dysfunc-tional, and Liz comes to see Rosemaryless as a beacon than a warning — an im-age of the cynical, resentful, washed-updingbat Liz herself might well become.

Emily Nussbaum, the New Yorker’stelevision critic, remarked on Twitterthat the episode was “the key-to-all-my-thologies of female comedy,” which mayactually be an understatement. Thecharacter of Rosemary Howard cer-tainly embodies the glories and contra-dictions of second-wave feminism, andLiz’s ambivalence about her is a barbed

A princess, a rebel and a brave comic voice

Carrie Fisher, the actress, author and screenwriter who died Tuesday in Los Angeles,brought a rare combination of nerve, grit and hopefulness to her career. PAGE 5

LUCASFILM LTD., VIA EVERETT COLLECTION

AN APPRAISAL

She entered pop cultureas a damsel in peril, thenbecame more interesting

BY A.O. SCOTT

FISHER, PAGE 5

At Saks Off Fifth recently, an IvankaTrump white polyester and spandexblouse made in Indonesia was markeddown to $34.99, from $69. A few racksover, her black and white jacket camefrom Vietnam, while several blocksaway, at Macy’s, her leather booteemanufactured in China sold for morethan $100.

At the Trump Tower on Fifth Avenue,a $35 blue cotton cap embroidered with“Trump National Golf Club” was madein Bangladesh. A Trump Tower hoodiefrom Pakistan set tourists back $50.

A majority of clothes these days aremade anywhere but in America. And inthis era of local pride and nationalisticfervor, that has become a political liabil-ity. The conflict is starkly evident in theapparel brands made and marketed byPresident-elect Donald J. Trump and hisdaughter Ivanka.

Mr. Trump has cast companies thatmake goods in China and other foreigncountries as economic pariahs, si-

phoning off jobs better left at home. Hehas blamed the system, a set of policiesthat Mr. Trump acknowledged using forhis own gain. And since being elected, hehas continued to rail against globalforces, threatening to punish companieswith high tariffs if they don’t move pro-duction to the United States.

Should Mr. Trump make good on suchpromises, he would take aim at not onlyhis own brand, but his daughter’s aswell.

Mr. Trump doesn’t stand to lose much.While his goods are largely manufac-tured overseas, most of his retail ven-tures have gone the way of Trump vodka

and steaks. And what products can befound — at his hotels and golf coursesand on Amazon sold by independentsellers — are the vestiges of a mostly de-funct clothing line or sporadic ship-ments of Trump sweatshirts and hats.

Ivanka Trump’s company, by con-trast, is the type of operation that Mr.Trump is squarely aiming for. Her shoesand dresses largely retail for less than$150. Coats cost as much as $400.

Factored into those prices is the costof materials and production, as well asshipping, tariffs, marketing and adver-tising expenses. Cheap production over-seas means more coin in the coffers ofMs. Trump and the shoe, accessory andclothing makers that are her partners,among them Marc Fisher footwear, theG-III Apparel Group and Mondani.

Almost all of her goods are made over-seas, according to a New York Times re-view of shipments compiled separatelyby Panjiva and ImportGenius, two tradedatabases. ImportGenius tallied 193shipments for imported goods associ-ated with Ms. Trump for the yearthrough Dec. 5, mostly Chinese-madeshoes and handbags. Her dresses andblouses are made in China, Indonesiaand Vietnam, according to a review ofhundreds of clothing tags and financialdocuments filed by G-III.

The Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry store in the lobby of Trump Tower in Manhattan. Ms. Trump is already facing some blowback over potential conflicts of interest.ALEX WROBLEWSKI FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES

Trump apparel’s tricky labelVow to punish companiesthat produce outside U.S.could target own family

BY LAURA M. HOLSONAND RACHEL ABRAMS

Ivanka Trump items for sale at Saks Off Fifth in New York. Almost all of the brand’sgoods are made overseas, according to a New York Times review of shipments.

DANNY GHITIS FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES

TRUMP, PAGE 9

Flying at 30,000 feet, the powerful radaraboard this Air Force jet peered deepinto Syrian territory, hunting for targetson the ground to strike in the looming of-fensive to seize Raqqa, the IslamicState’s capital.

It was on a mission like this severalweeks ago that analysts discovered ahiding place in the central Syrian desertwhere the Islamic State was stashingscores of oil tanker trucks that providethe terrorist group with a crucial finan-cial lifeline.

Acting on that tip and other intelli-gence, two dozen American warplanesdestroyed 188 of the trucks in the biggestairstrike of the year, eliminating an esti-mated $2 million in oil revenue for theIslamic State, also known as ISIS orISIL.

Even as the American-led air cam-paign conducts bombing missions tosupport Iraqi troops fighting the IslamicState in Mosul, American commanderssaid the air war would probably play aneven greater role in Syria over the com-ing weeks in the battle to retake Raqqa.

Newly recruited Syrian Arab militiafighters, allied with experienced Kurd-ish fighters, are encircling Raqqa. Butthey need allied bombing to weaken anddislodge enemy forces dug in there, andto cut off the ability for the Islamic Stateto rearm, refuel and reinforce its fight-ers.

But with few spies in the city, Ameri-can officials say assessing the enemy isdifficult.

“We’ve spent a lot of time trying to un-derstand the situation on the ground inRaqqa,” Lt. Gen. Jeffrey L. Harrigian,the air war commander, said in an inter-view from his headquarters in Qatar.“It’s improving. It’s still not at the levelwe’d like it to be.”

The air operation is a pivotal compo-nent of a military campaign that has cost$12.5 million a day in Iraq and Syria. Theeffort has destroyed hundreds of tanks,artillery pieces, military vehicles, com-mand centers and fighting positions,and killed more than 50,000 fighters, ac-cording to American estimates. Sincethe air war began in late summer 2014,American and allied aircraft have con-ducted about 17,000 strikes in both coun-tries.

The Islamic State has lost about halfof the territory it seized in Iraq and Syriain 2014. But as ISIS loses ground in itsphysical caliphate, or religious state, thethreat of hundreds of foreign fighters re-turning home and of the expansion of its

U.S. eyein the skyglares at Islamic State

ISIS, PAGE 4

ABOARD THE JOINT STARSSURVEILLANCE PLANE,OVER NORTHERN IRAQ

Surveillance plane gathersdata about militants,helping to guide attacks

BY ERIC SCHMITT

Boundaries, Identity and the Public Realm

March 11–13, 2017

Doha, Qatar

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