Trump apparel s tricky label...Dec 29, 2016 · international edition |thursdy a december 29, 2016,...
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.. INTERNATIONAL EDITION | THURSDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2016 COMING CLEAN RUSSIA ADMITS DOPING IN SOCHI PAGE 13 | SPORTS A BET ON VINYL LABEL PREDICTS FUTURE OF JAZZ PAGE 14 | CULTURE FRANCA SOZZANI A WORLDVIEW THAT WENT BEYOND FASHION PAGE 6 | STYLE The race for a Zika vaccine, one of the most pressing priorities in global health, is at full throttle. More than a dozen companies and government institutions are working to unlock the secrets of the virus, and a vaccine could be available as early as 2018. But available to whom? If history is any guide, impoverished communities in Africa are likely to be the last in line. And this despite a mounting body of evidence that, contrary to the prevail- ing wisdom, poor families in Africa might bear the greatest burden of the disease. Indeed, much of what we have taken for granted about Zika — that it is a threat unique to the Western Hemi- sphere; that it may only recently have evolved the ability to cause microcephaly and brain dam- age in babies; and that it hasn’t hurt women and children in Africa — is now in serious doubt. We know that Zika was first identified in Uganda, in 1947, and that the first documented urban outbreak of the virus occurred in Libreville, the capital of Gabon, in 2007. We know that African strains of Zika — which can probably be transmitted sexually and from mother to child — are present in at least 25 countries across the continent. And we know that Guinea-Bissau, the only mainland African nation to send Zika testing results to the World Health Organiza- tion in 2016, has reported three micro- cephalic babies with clinical data sug- gesting Zika exposure. Most worrisome, though, is what we’ve learned from laboratory investi- gations over the past year. So far, at least 16 studies published in scientific journals have demonstrated that Af- rican strains of Zika can cause the same kinds of cellular damage we’ve seen in the Americas. According to one study by French virologists, a strain of Zika isolated in the Central African Republic was twice as deadly to brain stem cells as the variant circulating in Brazil. Brazilian geneticists reported that the mutations that have taken place between different strains of Zika do not seem to have altered the virus’s ability to cause microcephaly, which they believe may be a universal “feature of Africa loses in quest for Zika vaccine OPINION Far from being a threat unique to the Western Hemisphere, the virus is endemic to Africa. But that’s not where resources are going. ADAMS, PAGE 12 Patrick Adams Cameron Nutt Carrie Fisher was the child of a show- business family. “The daughter of fa- mous parents,” she wrote in her memoir “Wishful Drinking,” which originated as a one-woman show. “One an icon, the other a consort to icons.” She entered popular culture as a prin- cess in peril and endures as something much more complicated and interest- ing. Many things, really: a rebel com- mander; a witty internal critic of the ce- lebrity machine; a teller of comic tales, true and embellished; an inspiring and cautionary avatar of excess and resil- ience; an emblem of the honesty we crave (and so rarely receive) from be- loved purveyors of make-believe. When I heard the news of Ms. Fisher’s death on Tuesday, what immediately popped into my mind was not “Star Wars” but “Rosemary’s Baby” — that unforgettable episode from Season 2 of “30 Rock,” in which she turns up as a leg- endary and colossally difficult televi- sion writer, Rosemary Howard. Liz Lemon, the present-day television writer played (and created) by Tina Fey, idolizes Rosemary, seeing her as a pio- neer and a spiritual mother. But even symbolic mother-daughter relation- ships have a way of turning dysfunc- tional, and Liz comes to see Rosemary less as a beacon than a warning — an im- age of the cynical, resentful, washed-up dingbat Liz herself might well become. Emily Nussbaum, the New Yorker’s television critic, remarked on Twitter that the episode was “the key-to-all-my- thologies of female comedy,” which may actually be an understatement. The character of Rosemary Howard cer- tainly embodies the glories and contra- dictions of second-wave feminism, and Liz’s ambivalence about her is a barbed A princess, a rebel and a brave comic voice Carrie Fisher, the actress, author and screenwriter who died Tuesday in Los Angeles, brought a rare combination of nerve, grit and hopefulness to her career. PAGE 5 LUCASFILM LTD., VIA EVERETT COLLECTION AN APPRAISAL She entered pop culture as a damsel in peril, then became more interesting BY A.O. SCOTT FISHER, PAGE 5 At Saks Off Fifth recently, an Ivanka Trump white polyester and spandex blouse made in Indonesia was marked down to $34.99, from $69. A few racks over, her black and white jacket came from Vietnam, while several blocks away, at Macy’s, her leather bootee manufactured in China sold for more than $100. At the Trump Tower on Fifth Avenue, a $35 blue cotton cap embroidered with “Trump National Golf Club” was made in Bangladesh. A Trump Tower hoodie from Pakistan set tourists back $50. A majority of clothes these days are made anywhere but in America. And in this era of local pride and nationalistic fervor, that has become a political liabil- ity. The conflict is starkly evident in the apparel brands made and marketed by President-elect Donald J. Trump and his daughter Ivanka. Mr. Trump has cast companies that make goods in China and other foreign countries as economic pariahs, si- phoning off jobs better left at home. He has blamed the system, a set of policies that Mr. Trump acknowledged using for his own gain. And since being elected, he has continued to rail against global forces, threatening to punish companies with high tariffs if they don’t move pro- duction to the United States. Should Mr. Trump make good on such promises, he would take aim at not only his own brand, but his daughter’s as well. Mr. Trump doesn’t stand to lose much. While his goods are largely manufac- tured overseas, most of his retail ven- tures have gone the way of Trump vodka and steaks. And what products can be found — at his hotels and golf courses and on Amazon sold by independent sellers — are the vestiges of a mostly de- funct clothing line or sporadic ship- ments of Trump sweatshirts and hats. Ivanka Trump’s company, by con- trast, is the type of operation that Mr. Trump is squarely aiming for. Her shoes and dresses largely retail for less than $150. Coats cost as much as $400. Factored into those prices is the cost of materials and production, as well as shipping, tariffs, marketing and adver- tising expenses. Cheap production over- seas means more coin in the coffers of Ms. Trump and the shoe, accessory and clothing makers that are her partners, among them Marc Fisher footwear, the G-III Apparel Group and Mondani. Almost all of her goods are made over- seas, according to a New York Times re- view of shipments compiled separately by Panjiva and ImportGenius, two trade databases. ImportGenius tallied 193 shipments for imported goods associ- ated with Ms. Trump for the year through Dec. 5, mostly Chinese-made shoes and handbags. Her dresses and blouses are made in China, Indonesia and Vietnam, according to a review of hundreds of clothing tags and financial documents filed by G-III. The Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry store in the lobby of Trump Tower in Manhattan. Ms. Trump is already facing some blowback over potential conflicts of interest. ALEX WROBLEWSKI FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES Trump apparel’s tricky label Vow to punish companies that produce outside U.S. could target own family BY LAURA M. HOLSON AND RACHEL ABRAMS Ivanka Trump items for sale at Saks Off Fifth in New York. Almost all of the brand’s goods are made overseas, according to a New York Times review of shipments. DANNY GHITIS FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES TRUMP, PAGE 9 Flying at 30,000 feet, the powerful radar aboard this Air Force jet peered deep into Syrian territory, hunting for targets on the ground to strike in the looming of- fensive to seize Raqqa, the Islamic State’s capital. It was on a mission like this several weeks ago that analysts discovered a hiding place in the central Syrian desert where the Islamic State was stashing scores of oil tanker trucks that provide the terrorist group with a crucial finan- cial lifeline. Acting on that tip and other intelli- gence, two dozen American warplanes destroyed 188 of the trucks in the biggest airstrike of the year, eliminating an esti- mated $2 million in oil revenue for the Islamic State, also known as ISIS or ISIL. Even as the American-led air cam- paign conducts bombing missions to support Iraqi troops fighting the Islamic State in Mosul, American commanders said the air war would probably play an even greater role in Syria over the com- ing weeks in the battle to retake Raqqa. Newly recruited Syrian Arab militia fighters, allied with experienced Kurd- ish fighters, are encircling Raqqa. But they need allied bombing to weaken and dislodge enemy forces dug in there, and to cut off the ability for the Islamic State to rearm, refuel and reinforce its fight- ers. But with few spies in the city, Ameri- can officials say assessing the enemy is difficult. “We’ve spent a lot of time trying to un- derstand the situation on the ground in Raqqa,” Lt. Gen. Jeffrey L. Harrigian, the air war commander, said in an inter- view from his headquarters in Qatar. “It’s improving. It’s still not at the level we’d like it to be.” The air operation is a pivotal compo- nent of a military campaign that has cost $12.5 million a day in Iraq and Syria. The effort has destroyed hundreds of tanks, artillery pieces, military vehicles, com- mand centers and fighting positions, and killed more than 50,000 fighters, ac- cording to American estimates. Since the air war began in late summer 2014, American and allied aircraft have con- ducted about 17,000 strikes in both coun- tries. The Islamic State has lost about half of the territory it seized in Iraq and Syria in 2014. But as ISIS loses ground in its physical caliphate, or religious state, the threat of hundreds of foreign fighters re- turning home and of the expansion of its U.S. eye in the sky glares at Islamic State ISIS, PAGE 4 ABOARD THE JOINT STARS SURVEILLANCE PLANE, OVER NORTHERN IRAQ Surveillance plane gathers data about militants, helping to guide attacks BY ERIC SCHMITT Boundaries, Identity and the Public Realm March 11–13, 2017 Doha, Qatar Apply to attend ArtforTomorrow.com Issue Number No. 41,615 Andorra € 3.60 Antilles € 3.90 Austria € 3.20 Bahrain BD 1.20 Belgium €3.20 Bos. & Herz. KM 5.50 Cameroon CFA 2600 Canada CAN$ 5.50 Croatia KN 22.00 Cyprus € 2.90 Czech Rep CZK 110 Denmark Dkr 28 Egypt EGP 15.00 Estonia € 3.50 Finland € 3.20 France € 3.20 Gabon CFA 2600 Great Britain £ 2.00 Greece € 2.50 Germany € 3.20 Hungary HUF 880 Israel NIS 13.50 Israel / Eilat NIS 11.50 Italy € 3.20 Ivory Coast CFA 2600 Jordan JD 2.00 Senegal CFA 2600 Serbia Din 280 Slovakia € 3.50 Slovenia € 3.00 Spain € 3.20 Sweden Skr 30 Switzerland CHF 4.50 Syria US$ 3.00 Norway Nkr 30 Oman OMR 1.250 Poland Zl 14 Portugal € 3.20 Qatar QR 10.00 Republic of Ireland ¤ 3.20 Reunion € 3.50 Saudi Arabia SR 13.00 Kazakhstan US$ 3.50 Latvia € 3.90 Lebanon LBP 5,000 Lithuania € 5.20 Luxembourg € 3.20 Malta € 3.20 Montenegro € 3.00 Morocco MAD 30 NEWSSTAND PRICES The Netherlands € 3.20 Tunisia Din 4.800 Turkey TL 9 U.A.E. AED 12.00 United States $ 4.00 United States Military (Europe) $ 1.90
Transcript of Trump apparel s tricky label...Dec 29, 2016 · international edition |thursdy a december 29, 2016,...
..
INTERNATIONAL EDITION | THURSDAY, DECEMBER 29, 2016
COMING CLEANRUSSIA ADMITSDOPING IN SOCHIPAGE 13 | SPORTS
A BET ON VINYLLABEL PREDICTSFUTURE OF JAZZPAGE 14 | CULTURE
FRANCA SOZZANIA WORLDVIEW THATWENT BEYOND FASHIONPAGE 6 | STYLE
The race for a Zika vaccine, one of themost pressing priorities in globalhealth, is at full throttle. More than adozen companies and governmentinstitutions are working to unlock thesecrets of the virus, and a vaccinecould be available as early as 2018.
But available to whom? If history isany guide, impoverished communitiesin Africa are likely to be the last in line.And this despite a mounting body ofevidence that, contrary to the prevail-ing wisdom, poor families in Africamight bear the greatest burden of thedisease.
Indeed, much of what we have takenfor granted about Zika — that it is athreat unique to the Western Hemi-sphere; that it may only recently have
evolved theability to causemicrocephalyand brain dam-age in babies;and that it hasn’thurt women andchildren in Africa— is now inserious doubt.
We know thatZika was firstidentified inUganda, in 1947,and that the firstdocumentedurban outbreakof the virusoccurred in
Libreville, the capital of Gabon, in 2007.We know that African strains of Zika —which can probably be transmittedsexually and from mother to child —are present in at least 25 countriesacross the continent. And we knowthat Guinea-Bissau, the only mainlandAfrican nation to send Zika testingresults to the World Health Organiza-tion in 2016, has reported three micro-cephalic babies with clinical data sug-gesting Zika exposure.
Most worrisome, though, is whatwe’ve learned from laboratory investi-gations over the past year. So far, atleast 16 studies published in scientificjournals have demonstrated that Af-rican strains of Zika can cause thesame kinds of cellular damage we’veseen in the Americas. According to onestudy by French virologists, a strain ofZika isolated in the Central AfricanRepublic was twice as deadly to brainstem cells as the variant circulating inBrazil.
Brazilian geneticists reported thatthe mutations that have taken placebetween different strains of Zika do notseem to have altered the virus’s abilityto cause microcephaly, which theybelieve may be a universal “feature of
Africa losesin quest for Zika vaccine
OPINION
Far from being a threatunique to the WesternHemisphere,the virus is endemicto Africa. But that’s not where resourcesare going.
ADAMS, PAGE 12
Patrick AdamsCameron Nutt
Carrie Fisher was the child of a show-business family. “The daughter of fa-mous parents,” she wrote in her memoir“Wishful Drinking,” which originated asa one-woman show. “One an icon, theother a consort to icons.”
She entered popular culture as a prin-cess in peril and endures as somethingmuch more complicated and interest-ing. Many things, really: a rebel com-mander; a witty internal critic of the ce-lebrity machine; a teller of comic tales,true and embellished; an inspiring andcautionary avatar of excess and resil-ience; an emblem of the honesty wecrave (and so rarely receive) from be-loved purveyors of make-believe.
When I heard the news of Ms. Fisher’sdeath on Tuesday, what immediatelypopped into my mind was not “StarWars” but “Rosemary’s Baby” — thatunforgettable episode from Season 2 of“30 Rock,” in which she turns up as a leg-endary and colossally difficult televi-sion writer, Rosemary Howard.
Liz Lemon, the present-day televisionwriter played (and created) by Tina Fey,idolizes Rosemary, seeing her as a pio-neer and a spiritual mother. But evensymbolic mother-daughter relation-ships have a way of turning dysfunc-tional, and Liz comes to see Rosemaryless as a beacon than a warning — an im-age of the cynical, resentful, washed-updingbat Liz herself might well become.
Emily Nussbaum, the New Yorker’stelevision critic, remarked on Twitterthat the episode was “the key-to-all-my-thologies of female comedy,” which mayactually be an understatement. Thecharacter of Rosemary Howard cer-tainly embodies the glories and contra-dictions of second-wave feminism, andLiz’s ambivalence about her is a barbed
A princess, a rebel and a brave comic voice
Carrie Fisher, the actress, author and screenwriter who died Tuesday in Los Angeles,brought a rare combination of nerve, grit and hopefulness to her career. PAGE 5
LUCASFILM LTD., VIA EVERETT COLLECTION
AN APPRAISAL
She entered pop cultureas a damsel in peril, thenbecame more interesting
BY A.O. SCOTT
FISHER, PAGE 5
At Saks Off Fifth recently, an IvankaTrump white polyester and spandexblouse made in Indonesia was markeddown to $34.99, from $69. A few racksover, her black and white jacket camefrom Vietnam, while several blocksaway, at Macy’s, her leather booteemanufactured in China sold for morethan $100.
At the Trump Tower on Fifth Avenue,a $35 blue cotton cap embroidered with“Trump National Golf Club” was madein Bangladesh. A Trump Tower hoodiefrom Pakistan set tourists back $50.
A majority of clothes these days aremade anywhere but in America. And inthis era of local pride and nationalisticfervor, that has become a political liabil-ity. The conflict is starkly evident in theapparel brands made and marketed byPresident-elect Donald J. Trump and hisdaughter Ivanka.
Mr. Trump has cast companies thatmake goods in China and other foreigncountries as economic pariahs, si-
phoning off jobs better left at home. Hehas blamed the system, a set of policiesthat Mr. Trump acknowledged using forhis own gain. And since being elected, hehas continued to rail against globalforces, threatening to punish companieswith high tariffs if they don’t move pro-duction to the United States.
Should Mr. Trump make good on suchpromises, he would take aim at not onlyhis own brand, but his daughter’s aswell.
Mr. Trump doesn’t stand to lose much.While his goods are largely manufac-tured overseas, most of his retail ven-tures have gone the way of Trump vodka
and steaks. And what products can befound — at his hotels and golf coursesand on Amazon sold by independentsellers — are the vestiges of a mostly de-funct clothing line or sporadic ship-ments of Trump sweatshirts and hats.
Ivanka Trump’s company, by con-trast, is the type of operation that Mr.Trump is squarely aiming for. Her shoesand dresses largely retail for less than$150. Coats cost as much as $400.
Factored into those prices is the costof materials and production, as well asshipping, tariffs, marketing and adver-tising expenses. Cheap production over-seas means more coin in the coffers ofMs. Trump and the shoe, accessory andclothing makers that are her partners,among them Marc Fisher footwear, theG-III Apparel Group and Mondani.
Almost all of her goods are made over-seas, according to a New York Times re-view of shipments compiled separatelyby Panjiva and ImportGenius, two tradedatabases. ImportGenius tallied 193shipments for imported goods associ-ated with Ms. Trump for the yearthrough Dec. 5, mostly Chinese-madeshoes and handbags. Her dresses andblouses are made in China, Indonesiaand Vietnam, according to a review ofhundreds of clothing tags and financialdocuments filed by G-III.
The Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry store in the lobby of Trump Tower in Manhattan. Ms. Trump is already facing some blowback over potential conflicts of interest.ALEX WROBLEWSKI FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
Trump apparel’s tricky labelVow to punish companiesthat produce outside U.S.could target own family
BY LAURA M. HOLSONAND RACHEL ABRAMS
Ivanka Trump items for sale at Saks Off Fifth in New York. Almost all of the brand’sgoods are made overseas, according to a New York Times review of shipments.
DANNY GHITIS FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES
TRUMP, PAGE 9
Flying at 30,000 feet, the powerful radaraboard this Air Force jet peered deepinto Syrian territory, hunting for targetson the ground to strike in the looming of-fensive to seize Raqqa, the IslamicState’s capital.
It was on a mission like this severalweeks ago that analysts discovered ahiding place in the central Syrian desertwhere the Islamic State was stashingscores of oil tanker trucks that providethe terrorist group with a crucial finan-cial lifeline.
Acting on that tip and other intelli-gence, two dozen American warplanesdestroyed 188 of the trucks in the biggestairstrike of the year, eliminating an esti-mated $2 million in oil revenue for theIslamic State, also known as ISIS orISIL.
Even as the American-led air cam-paign conducts bombing missions tosupport Iraqi troops fighting the IslamicState in Mosul, American commanderssaid the air war would probably play aneven greater role in Syria over the com-ing weeks in the battle to retake Raqqa.
Newly recruited Syrian Arab militiafighters, allied with experienced Kurd-ish fighters, are encircling Raqqa. Butthey need allied bombing to weaken anddislodge enemy forces dug in there, andto cut off the ability for the Islamic Stateto rearm, refuel and reinforce its fight-ers.
But with few spies in the city, Ameri-can officials say assessing the enemy isdifficult.
“We’ve spent a lot of time trying to un-derstand the situation on the ground inRaqqa,” Lt. Gen. Jeffrey L. Harrigian,the air war commander, said in an inter-view from his headquarters in Qatar.“It’s improving. It’s still not at the levelwe’d like it to be.”
The air operation is a pivotal compo-nent of a military campaign that has cost$12.5 million a day in Iraq and Syria. Theeffort has destroyed hundreds of tanks,artillery pieces, military vehicles, com-mand centers and fighting positions,and killed more than 50,000 fighters, ac-cording to American estimates. Sincethe air war began in late summer 2014,American and allied aircraft have con-ducted about 17,000 strikes in both coun-tries.
The Islamic State has lost about halfof the territory it seized in Iraq and Syriain 2014. But as ISIS loses ground in itsphysical caliphate, or religious state, thethreat of hundreds of foreign fighters re-turning home and of the expansion of its
U.S. eyein the skyglares at Islamic State
ISIS, PAGE 4
ABOARD THE JOINT STARSSURVEILLANCE PLANE,OVER NORTHERN IRAQ
Surveillance plane gathersdata about militants,helping to guide attacks
BY ERIC SCHMITT
Boundaries, Identity and the Public Realm
March 11–13, 2017
Doha, Qatar
Apply to attend
ArtforTomorrow.com Issue NumberNo. 41,615
Andorra € 3.60Antilles € 3.90Austria € 3.20Bahrain BD 1.20Belgium €3.20Bos. & Herz. KM 5.50
Cameroon CFA 2600Canada CAN$ 5.50Croatia KN 22.00Cyprus € 2.90Czech Rep CZK 110Denmark Dkr 28
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Greece € 2.50Germany € 3.20Hungary HUF 880Israel NIS 13.50Israel / Eilat NIS 11.50Italy € 3.20Ivory Coast CFA 2600Jordan JD 2.00
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NEWSSTAND PRICESThe Netherlands € 3.20Tunisia Din 4.800Turkey TL 9U.A.E. AED 12.00United States $ 4.00United States Military(Europe) $ 1.90
