GARDEN ROUTE EGYPT MALAWI CAPE TOWN MOROCCO KENYAPLUS
Destinations
GO WILDAfrica’s best safaris
AFRICA
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PEOPLE PLACES ANIMALS ADVENTURE
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With our unique tour linking system, almost any combination of tours is possible. We have over 100 different route options available for you and most tours are available in either the camping version (where you sleep in 2 man dome tents) or accommodated (you get to sleep in a bed). Single supplements are also available.
Being African based you can be assured that your money is going directly into the continent. Added to this Nomad is a major contributor to the Nomad African Trust, a non-profi t charity organisation. In addition, please consider buying a Green Seat, where you can offset the carbon cost of your trip.
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3tntmagazine.com/destinations
Welcome to TNT’s Destinations Africa
supplement, in which we
bring you the very best of
what this mighty continent
has to offer.
From bungee jumping
and skydiving in Cape
Town, to spotting lion kills
in Tanzania, we’ve got the
lowdown on Africa’s
biggest thrills for
adventurous travellers.
Fancy something a bit
more relaxing? Then climb
aboard a felucca with us
as we slowly sail down the
Nile, or take to Lake
Malawi in a kayak and
end your nights camping
under the stars.
But if there’s one thing
you absolutely can’t miss
in Africa, then it’s going
on safari.
And we’ve got loads
of tips on how to make
sure your safari is one to
remember; whether it’s
choosing the right country,
or having a DIY adventure
on foot or even by taxi!
Happy travelling!
The Destinations team
Editor Carol Driver Acting Travel Editor Laura Chubb Contributing Writers Alasdair Morton, Tom Sturrock, Frankie Mullin, Rebecca Kent, Clare Vooght, Jahn Vannisselroy, Adam Edwards, Amy Adams, Jennifer Carr, Lucy Corne Head Of Design And Production Jon Cooke Graphic Design Manager Justine Mackay Acting Picture Researcher Ruth Board Head Of Digital Marketing & Development Syed Ahmad Social Media Coordinator Dan Thorne IT Manager Stephen Dann Commercial Director David Alstin Sales Managers Jaqui Ward, Matt Syder Sales Executives Tyler Harrison, Eddie Clinton, Donovan Smith, Michael Fair TNT Multimedia Ltd CEO Kevin Ellis Chairman Ken Hurst Publisher TNT Multimedia Limited Distribution Emblem Direct Ltd Printed By Wyndeham Peterborough Limited News AAP SAPA NZPA Pictures Getty Images, TNT Images, ThinkstockTNT Magazine, 10 Greycoat Place, London, SW1P 1SB tntmagazine.comGeneral Enquiries Phone 020 7960 6008 Fax 020 7960 6977 Email [email protected] Sales Enquiries Phone 020 7989 0567 Email [email protected]
Welcome Letter
08 MARRAKECH MUST- DO’SWhat you can’t afford to miss in Morocco’s capital
10 RELAXING EGYPTNeed some chill time after the madness of Cairo? We go sailing down The Nile
14 SHOESTRING SAFARIHow to bike, taxi and walk with the wildlife on a budget
18 BEST OF CAPE TOWNWhether you’re a thrillseeker or a yellow-belly, you’ll be bowled over by Cape Town
24 ECO-MALAWILimit your carbon footprint by kayaking and camping around a sub-Saharan Eden
29 GARDEN ROUTECage dive with sharks, surf and slug port on SA’s answer to Route 66
05 TOP 5 SAFARISNo trip to Africa is complete without a safari. Here’s the best places to do it and why
> CONTENTSDESTINATIONS AFRICA
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4 tntmagazine.com/destinations
WHAT AN AWESOME POWER PUNCHED ADRENALIN THOUGHT: Bundu bashing in Kruger or experiencing the breath taking sights that surround our little city on a jaunt with Crazy Dave. No Budget blues here! Our budget, deluxe & private safari options are incredible value for money. We offer a variety of choices for day and overnight tours!
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www.krugerandmore.co.za
ALL TOURS INCLUDE MEALS, ACCOMM, ENTRANCE FEES AND TRANSPORT
Kruger Park Day Tours from R1450ppByde Canyon Day Trip from R1250ppTours to Swaziland and Mozambique2 days with 1 night Kruger Park
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With the African specialistsAbsolute Africa 30 years overlanding in Africa
www.absoluteafrica.com www.absoluteafrica.com Phone: 0208 742 0226 Phone: 0208 742 0226 Email: [email protected]: [email protected]
A whole range of trips incl. game drives in the Masai Mara and the Serengeti, gorilla trekking, guided game walks, rhino trekking, evening game drives and so much more.
Get amongst it!
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Tanzania Game
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$2900US
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$2100US
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Create your own Adventure Safari OR
[email protected] or +61 404 238 209
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Going on safari is your essential African experience, and spotting the Big Five will be high on every
traveller’s agenda. A term coined by white hunters, it refers to the fi ve most diffi cult animals in Africa to hunt on foot, and comprises the lion, African elephant, Cape buffalo, leopard, and rhinoceros. And there’s all manner of other African animals that you’ll thrill to see up close: zebra, giraffes, hippos, cheetahs ... the list goes on.
But safari is a gamble. The beasts you get to see will
vary depending on the time of year and all sorts of other
factors. However, there are some countries and parks that
give you a better chance than most. Here’s our pick of
the best places to go on safari in Africa.
1 KenyaSTAR ATTRACTION Wildebeest
Africa’s most popular safari destination, Kenya might be
having some PR problems right now, but nothing can take
away from the might of its Masai Mara Reserve. Go
between July and October and bear witness to the
AFRICA > BEST SAFARIS
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>>
Africa’s best safaris If you’re desperate to see the Big Five and determined to spot all of the other wonders of Africa’s animal kingdom, these are the best places to do itWORDS LAURA CHUBB
Stare out lions in Tanzania
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DESTINATIONS AFRICA
SA for cheetahs
jaw-dropping migration of millions of wildebeest and zebra.
Set in the Rift Valley with Tanzania’s Serengeti Plains running
along the southern end, you are pretty much guaranteed
to spy the Big Five.
2 BotswanaSTAR ATTRACTION Elephant
The Chobe National Park is home to tens of thousands of
elephants, so you’re unlikely to miss the big-eared fellows
when you visit. In fact, you’re likely to see hundreds. Go
between April and October – the cooler winter months
– to see herds of zebra, buffalo, giraffe and wildebeest, too.
Because the land dries up, the animals tend to congregate
by the river banks, making them easier to spot.
3 South AfricaSTAR ATTRACTION Cheetah
The Kruger National Park is renowned for boasting the most
diverse range of wildlife to see on safari, from lions, rhino
and leopards to hippos, crocs and cheetahs. There’s a
range of accommodation, from self-catering bungalows
to luxury lodges, and you can even do a self-drive safari.
4 TanzaniaSTAR ATTRACTION Lion
Offering what many call the ‘classic safari’ experience,
Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park offers great grasslands
for spotting lion kills (if that’s your bag). You can also get
a more exclusive-feeling view of the wildebeest and zebra
migration that makes its way through Kenya, as there are
fewer tourists in Tanzania.
5 NamibiaSTAR ATTRACTION Black rhinoceros
The Etosha National Park in northern Namibia is home to the
endangered black rhinoceros – declared extinct in western
Africa last year. As well as spotting this increasingly rare
beast, you’ll likely see giraffes, elephants, lions and often
even cheetahs and leopards. n
The black rhino
A zebra herd
Botswana is best for elephants
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DESTINATIONS AFRICA
MOROCCO
MARRAKECH
GETTING THEREFly direct from London
Gatwick to Marrakechwith easyJet from £108 return. (easyjet.com)
A snake charmer in Djemaa el-fna
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Trawl the city’s souks
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Marvellous Marrakech Marrakech is full of colour and the potential for adventure. From losing yourselfin its huge souk to unwinding in a hammam, here’s what you can’t afford to miss WORDS JAHN VANNISSELROY
Treat yourself to a journey to Morocco this year. It’s only a short plane ride away, meaning a weekend
break in Marrakech is perfectly within reach.
Why Marrakech? Little more than a three-hour fl ight from London, this
imperial Moroccan city is gloriously exotic. It’s known
as ‘The Red City’ to the native Berber community, but
its atmosphere is hardly monochromatic. Marrakech is
home to bustling street markets, or souks, relaxing spas,
or hammams, and cultural museums, while just a stone’s
throw from the majestic Atlas Mountains.
Don’t missYou’ll be tempted to spend all your time at the Djemaa
el-Fna or ‘main square’, the liveliest town centre in Africa.
By day, acrobats, snake charmers, storytellers and belly
dancers entrance hordes of spectators, but come
nightfall, the square transforms into an open-air dining
room, as food carts selling succulent treats emerge from
the plumes of smoke. Amid the mouth-watering mountains
of nosh and zesty aromas that fi ll the air, sellers will vie for
your attention, swearing that their wares are the best.
Best of the restDon’t expect an entirely soothing experience when visiting
a hammam, which can be found in luxury hotels and riads
(a traditional Moroccan house or palace). You’ll be given
a thorough scrubbing with black soap, which will wipe
away any trace of dirt or tan, before having a bucket of
water thrown over you, then you’ll be left to sweat it all
out in the sauna. The experience is topped off with
a soothing massage, so you leave feeling rejuvenated
and super-clean.
Dinner timeTagine, both the name of the stew and the dish in which
it’s cooked, is a hearty blend of vegetables, fruit, nuts
and meat slow-cooked over a bed of charcoal and
devoured with a heap of warm bread. For lighter fare,
try vegetarian couscous, sweetly enriched with dates,
almonds, raisins and cinnamon. For more adventurous
foodies, there’s always monkey brains, a delicacy
rumoured by the locals to cure impotence.
Money shotThe minaret of the famous Koutoubia Mosque stands at
an underwhelming 77 metres, but towers above the rest of
the city thanks to a decree that states no building can rise
above it. The mosque is particularly stunning when bathed
in the golden light of a sunset as the faithful are called to
prayer. Get clicking.
Where to stayRiad Massine is an ancient riad completely restored to its
original Spanish-Berber style. It’s located in Bab Doukkala,
one of Marrakech’s oldest residential districts, and provides
accommodation for groups and single travellers. From
£6pppn. For bookings and other accomodation options
see riad-massine2.hostel.com or hostelworld.com n
Morocco > Marrakech
9tntmagazine.com/destinations
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DESTINATIONS AFRICA
Felucca: essentially a fl oating bed
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GETTING THEREBritish Airways
(britishairways.com) offers return fl ights from London to Cairo for £273. Thomson (thomson.co.uk), Monarch (monarch.co.uk) and easyJet (easyjet.com) do fl ights from London to Luxor from £195.
Sail your way back to sanity You can’t knock Cairo for sheer buzz, but after negotiating the mayhem for a few days, you’ll be ready for some chill time. We fi nd sailing the Nile is the answer WORDS LUCY CORNE
Cairo is great for many things – exquisite bakeries and superlative shopping;
amazing architecture and welcoming residents – but relaxing it isn’t. The city is rammed with crazy drivers and more haggling, honking and hawking than even the most seasoned traveller can bear. However, there is another side to Egypt and if you want to relax, a sailing trip does wonders for the blood pressure.
The day after leaving Cairo, I fi nd myself
listening to the gentle splashing of the Nile
as I lie aboard a felucca. These fl at sailing
boats are essentially giant fl oating beds,
their decks almost entirely taken up by thin-yet-comfy
mattresses. You can take a trip for a matter of hours or
days, depending on the level of stress to be alleviated.
For me, it only takes a few hours on a felucca to return
my tension to pre-Cairo levels. I ponder the day we’ve had
– a midday departure from the southern city of Aswan, an
afternoon nap as the Nile gently carried us northward, a
surprisingly delicious dinner on board and a couple of cold
beers as the sun set over the river. We sleep anchored to
the river bank and awake to a typical breakfast of strong,
sugary tea and hard-boiled eggs.
With the gloriously laid-back pace of the trip set, we
then settle in for a day of utter relaxation peppered with
the occasional brush with local culture.
Our skipper, who calls himself ‘Captain Hubbly Bubbly’,
thanks to his love of the hookah pipe, abandons ship mid-
morning to do a little essential shopping for
his passengers. His list is an unusual one
featuring just two items – toilet paper and
camel meat (the latter perhaps
necessitating an increased supply of the
former ... ).
As we take turns at the helm between
naps and sips of Egyptian Stella beer, the
river banks pass by, sometimes fringed with
palm trees; other sections punctuated with
whitewashed houses or the occasional
mosque. After lunch we anchor to await
the return of Captain Hubbly Bubbly and
my eye catches the comical sight of two
teenage boys attempting to bathe a cow that is clearly
happier out of the water.
After a 15-minute struggle to lure the animal into the river
they admit defeat, leave the cow to its own devices and
go for a swim. They approach our boat and wave to us
EGYPT > THE NILE
11tntmagazine.com/destinations
>>
FAST FACTSWHEN TO GO Spring and autumn are the best times to visit. The summer months are OK for sun lovers if you stick to the coast, but interior towns such as Aswan can get unbearably hot. IS IT SAFE? The Foreign and Commonwealth Offi ce has said it is still safe to visit Egypt, in spite of violent protests in Cairo last year in which several people were killed. However, tourists are warned to stay away from demonstrations and crowds. (fco.gov.uk)SEE egypt.travel
EGYPT
CAIRO
Luxor
Dahab
River Nile
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DESTINATIONS AFRICA
to jump in. Eyeing the murky water and thinking of all those
travel ailments I foolishly read up on before leaving home,
I’m hesitant, but once my fellow passengers take the
plunge I don’t want to get left out.
Wading in fully clothed (a swimsuit seems wholly
inappropriate in rural Egypt) I’m shocked to fi nd the Nile
a pleasant place to swim. We fl oat around until Hubbly
Bubbly returns with an armful of loo roll and a bag
overfl owing with utterly unappetising meat.
That evening, our second and last on board, we party
on the river bank. Barbequed camel turns out to be not
only bearable but actually tasty. To celebrate his culinary
success, Captain Hubbly Bubbly breaks out his goblet drum.
A fi ne evening caps off a wonderful day and we retreat
to our fl oating mattress.
The next morning as the felucca nears Kom Ombo,
home to a stunning riverside temple and the place where
we have to bid farewell to Hubbly and his boat, I feel ready
for a bit of a haggle. In fact, after a few days on the
felucca, I feel ready to tackle Cairo again. n
Barbequed camel turns out to be not only bearable but tasty
DIVE INTO DAHAB
If you’re still not chilled enough after your felucca trip, get yourself to the beach resort of Dahab. Open-air restaurants line the beachfront, where you can sip cocktails or lassis and munch on the free appetisers each establishment uses to attract diners. The Red Sea laps just metres away, its waters a magnet for divers and snorkelers from around the world.
Dahab is Egypt’s laidback and beautiful answer to Thailand’s Koh Samui. Oceanic pursuits take centre stage in this largely budget resort, but those who come to take their PADI course or sample the world-class snorkeling action often end up staying longer than planned.
There’s more to this resort perched on the edge of the stark and striking Sinai region than diving and daiquiris, though. Day trips take in the swirling patterns and iconic rock formations of the Coloured Canyon, while overnight camel treks stop off for a little nomadic culture in a Bedouin camp. And whether you’re religious or not, taking the midnight hike to the biblical mountain’s 2285m summit in time for a desert sunrise will be a memorable experience.
» Check out egypttourinfo.com for more on cruising down the Nile on a felucca
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Saturday 3 March 2012Earls Court Exhibition Centre
Free to Pre-register at tnttravelshow.com
Travel discounts of up to 50% Jayson Norris & Melic Live Travel Seminars
+ Win ‘A Year’s Worth of Travel’ On the Kathmandu ‘Big Stage’ with Kathmandu
RECRUITMENTFAIR2012
CAREERS
EDUCATION
TRAINING
Including
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DESTINATIONS AFRICA
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Get up close to nature Spot giraffes on a walk
Cycle with zebra
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KENYA
NAIROBI
GETTING THEREKenya Airways and
British Airways offer direct fl ights to Nairobi from £400 return. Indirect fl ights with Swiss Airways start at £360 return. (kenya-airways.com; britishairways.com; swiss.com)
Kenya on a shoestring Planning your own Kenyan safari can benefi t your budget as well getting you even closer to the Big Five. We show you how to bike, taxi and walk with the wildlife WORDS AMY ADAMS
It really isn’t the best moment, just as we drive up alongside three white rhino, to
discover that my car window doesn’t wind down. Sensing my frustration as I peer through the dusty glass, my taxi driver, Mwaka, suggests I open my door and get even closer. The only thing between me and the nearest of these huge rhinos is my digital camera.
“That one’s getting angry now,”
Mwaka advises, prompting me to hurriedly
shut the door. Our vehicle might not boast
all the mod cons, but this kind of up-close-
and-personal experience is the pay-off for
eschewing organised tours and doing it yourself.
BikingHiring a bike at Elsa Gate for KES500 (£3.70) and paying
the park entrance fee of KES2100 (about £15) is a great
way to begin an alternative safari, taking in Hell’s Gate
National Park by Lake Naivasha in the Rift Valley, an hour
from Nairobi. The sandy terrain doesn’t make for an easy
ride, but our efforts are rewarded when I round a corner
and see a waterhole thronging with zebras, their black
and white stripes striking against the earthy backdrop.
In the other direction, a fellow cyclist spies a giraffe.
As we get nearer, we spot another, and another, until
a family of four becomes visible. Then they slope off into
the trees, their movements so jarringly unfamiliar that it’s
hard to believe they are actually real.
TaxiWith blaring hip-hop and passengers
hanging out the door, minibuses, known
as matatus, might not seem the sanest,
most relaxed way to travel, but they
are cheap and cheerful, and an
undoubtedly novel experience. After
taking one into Naivasha town and then
further on to Nakuru, I disembark in a
chaotic market place.
Following some fi erce haggling, I fi nd
a taxi driver who is prepared to take me
on a three-hour tour of Lake Nakuru
National Park for KES3500 (£25) plus the
park fee of US$60 (£38). Admittedly, it’s not peanuts, but
I had budgeted to pay far more.
WalkingIf cycling past giraffes is a surreal experience, then
KENYA > SHOESTRING SAFARI
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>>
FAST FACTSWHEN TO GO January and February are the most popular months, due to the hot, dry weather. You can go any time, but avoid the rainy season (March to the end of May). CURRENCY £1 = KES135 (Kenyan shilling)IS IT SAFE? You’re advised to steer clear of all areas near the Somali border. Travellers should also be extra-vigilant in Nairobi,as the capital is under a heightened threat of terror attacks (fco.gov.uk)SEE magicalkenya.com
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The city centre of Nairobi is worth a visit to experience the downtown buzz, grab a few souvenirs and have your pick of restaurants, but don’t leave without visiting Karen, a leafy suburb, south of Nairobi, which feels like it belongs to a different city.
Among the colonial villas and tree-lined streets you’ll fi nd unique attractions. In particular, check out the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, set up to look after orphaned black rhinos and elephants until they’re strong enough to go back into the wild and fend for themselves. You can visit this corner of the Nairobi National Park each day between 11am and noon to watch the baby elephants being fed from giant bottles of milk. See: sheldrickwildlifetrust.org Head to the Giraffe Centre, where endangered Rothschild giraffes are bred before being released into the wild. The centre is on stilts, so you get the rare chance to be at eye-level with these amazing creatures – grab a fi stful of pellets and hand-feed them. At the nearby Giraffe Manor they roam the gardens. You can stay for a hefty price or just have afternoon tea, but you’ll need to book ahead. See: giraffecentre.org
In Kibera, the city’s largest shanty town, a small bead factory and craft shop that is the Kazuri bead and pottery centre has been set up to create jobs for residents. A member of staff will give you a free tour around the factory, from the kilns to the intricate glazing and industrious threading. The pretty necklaces and pots made here are sent round the world, and you can fi nd a selection of them in the shop. See: kazuri.com
16 tntmagazine.com/destinations
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DESTINATIONS AFRICA
walking among them is yet another step into the
unexpected. At Crater Lake Game Sanctuary back near
Lake Naivasha, we pay an entrance fee of KES700 (£5)
and the park is ours to mingle between the giraffes,
zebras, impalas and gazelles. I stand and watch in awe
as a group of giraffes, initially keeping a wary eye on me
as they snack on the trees, startled by the noise of a car,
turn and gallop away in an awkward slow-motion lope
that causes the ground to shake.
Later, while making my way to the jade Crater Lake, I
come across the strangest bird I’ve ever seen – there he is,
marching across the open grassland, his upper body like a
majestic eagle and lower half like a spindly stork, seeming
to lunge with each step. According to my guidebook, it’s
a secretary bird, known to walk up to 20km a day.
Even compared to the angry rhino, the munching
giraffes and the thronging, luminous fl amingos, it’s an
unexpected highlight, and something I probably
wouldn’t have spotted from a fl ash 4WD. So if your jaw
drops to the fl oor at the price of going on safari with an
organised tour, then rest assured that you can always do
it yourself. Just make sure the taxi door shuts properly. n
The only thing between me and the nearest of the rhinos
is a digital camera
BEST OF NAIROBI
Face-to-face
Safari by taxi
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17tntmagazine.com/destinations
THE SMART CHOICE FOR GORILLA ENCOUNTERS
For more details or to book call 0844 7360 170 or visit www.geckosadventures.com
ATOL 6076
Guaranteed spots on a gorilla trek No waiting around thanks to secured permits A range of tours & itineraries from 8–79 days English speaking local leaders
With the African specialistsAbsolute Africa 30 years overlanding in Africa
www.absoluteafrica.com www.absoluteafrica.com Phone: 0208 742 0226 Phone: 0208 742 0226 Email: [email protected]: [email protected]
A whole range of trips incl. game drives in the Masai Mara and the Serengeti, gorilla trekking, guided game walks, rhino trekking, evening game drives and so much more.
Get amongst it!
Check out our TourSearch at tntmagazine.com/toursearch. We’ve done the legwork so you don’t need to, and put thousands of tours in one place.
Enter the details of what you want, read what other TNT readers have to say about it, then select your ideal tour!
1000sof toursin one place
DECIDED ON AFRICA?Overwhelmed by choice?
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18 tntmagazine.com/destinations
DESTINATIONS AFRICA
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Skydive over Robben Island
Surf at Kommetjie
Table Mountain
Addo Elephant National Park
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GETTING THEREFly direct from London
to Cape Town with South African Airways (fl ysaa.com) from £720 return. Fly indirect with Etihad, via Abu Dhabi, from £595 return. (etihadairways.com)
Cape Fear The Cape is perfect for both thrillseekers in search of an adrenaline-fuelled riot, and the more timid who are looking to relax, unwind and take in the glorious scenery WORDS ADAM EDWARDS
For a moment it looks a little like a certain Seventies blockbuster, as what
seems to be a fi n edges above the surface of the sea between me and my friends as we’re treading water offshore. My over-active imagination, fuelled by Jaws, kicks into overdrive and my life fl ashes before my eyes. But then I fi nd myself screaming through excitement rather than fear.
“Look!” I yell, as a tiny pup leaps out of
the water. “A baby sea lion.” The bug-
eyed scamp swims within a whisker’s
length of us, lapping up the attention.
“Only in Cape Town,” I say afterwards. It’s a cheesy
sentiment, but the so-called ‘LA of Africa’ more than lives
up to its gushing reviews.
The Mediterranean climate, exhilarating mix of cultures,
laid-back pace, not to mention some of the best waves in
the southern hemisphere, are just a snapshot of this city’s
appeal. But for others, it’s the heart-pounding range of
hair-raising activities on offer that is the draw.
Sitting down for lunch at one of the smart bistros lining
the historic V&A Waterfront, troupes of fi re-breathers,
jugglers and traditional African dancers on the quayside
offer ample entertainment as we plot our adventures.
First up? Climbing Table Mountain, the soaring fl at-
topped beauty that looms over the city. The three-hour
slog up this 3500ft (1000m) peak isn’t easy, but in the end
my aching legs pale in comparison to the amazing sense
of achievement.
After that mammoth challenge, it’s
time for a few well-deserved drinks. Long
Street in the heart of the city is chosen as
our destination. Bars and clubs overfl ow
on to mezzanine verandas, as people
huddle around tables watching life pass
by in the street below. As I lean against
the wrought-iron balustrades, with live
music and laughter ringing in my ears, it
could be New Orleans’ French Quarter
during Mardi Gras rather than Africa on
a week-night.
I’m staying a short taxi-ride away in
Observatory – a bohemian suburb packed with buzzing
hole-in-the-wall bars, shabby-chic cafes, and restaurants
where you can enjoy anything from a quiet coffee over a
book to a sumptuous three-course meal for less than a
tenner, or a seriously rowdy night dancing Coyote Ugly-
style on the bar.
SOUTH AFRICA > CAPE TOWN
19tntmagazine.com/destinations
>>
FAST FACTSWHEN TO GO Summertime is November-March. Be aware that prices can double during the Christmas holidays. ACCOMMODATION A dorm bed at South Boutique Backpackers (hostelworld.com) costs £6pn, while a dorm bed at The Backpack & Africa Travel Centre costs £10pn (backpackers.co.za). The Tulip Hotel & Conference Centre costs £28pn for a double (hotelclub.com).CURRENCY £1= ZAR12.61 (South African Rand)SEE capetown.travel
SOUTHAFRICA
CAPE TOWN
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20 tntmagazine.com/destinations
Riding giantsThe next morning, I wake up itching to hit the beach. From
Observatory, it’s a 30-minute drive to the premier wind-
and kite-surfi ng hotspots at Muizenberg, where we pound
the waves for a while. It’s then on to Kalk Bay, where we
grab lunch at the Brass Bell – an open-sided restaurant-
cum-bar offering some of the best and most reasonably
priced grub in the city – as bikini-clad beauties and
bronzed gods sit at rustic picnic tables. I ponder chilling
out here for the rest of the day, but the promise of seeing
the pint-sized Jackass penguins further down the coast at
Boulders Beach proves just too alluring.
The waters in this part of the Cape, known as False Bay,
may be home to animals you might more readily expect
to be climbing the slopes of an Antarctic iceberg, but this
stretch of coast is actually the warmest in Cape Town. Still,
if you don’t mind your surf bracing, the Atlantic coast has
great waves. In the summer (November-March),
Kommetjie’s Sunset Reef boasts some of the largest waves
in the world which, on good days, can reach a giant 25ft
(eight metres) in height.
While the sight of the comical penguins waddling
along the beach and swimming among the bathers has
me in hysterics, my pals are more concerned with setting
up a date with the cute penguins’ mortal enemies. The
waters off Cape Town are home to one of the world’s
largest populations of great white sharks and, unbeknown
to me, cage-diving with these toothy predators is next on
the to-do list.
I manage to give this excursion a wide birth – I’ve seen
Spielberg’s blockbuster too many times to be dangled
over the side of a boat like giant bait. I value my limbs
intact, just the way they are, thank you very much. But
I wind up regretting my fear-dictated decision when my
friends return, with a full complement of limbs, bragging:
“They just appear out of nowhere and start circling around
the boat, before swimming right up to the bars of the
cage for a closer look.
“It’s such a weird experience. There’s literally just a few
inches of metal separating you from all those teeth.”
South African skyfallAfter facing death and sniggering in its face, my friends
decide to raise the stakes and plan a skydive over the city
(I again choose to opt out due to the aforementioned
limb-fears). A private transfer zips them over to an airstrip
half an hour north of the city, and while I languish, a lonely
chicken-shit at the poolside, they’re climbing 9000ft above
the peninsular, pointing out the landmarks beneath them.
“It’s the most fantastic way to see the city,” my friend
It could be New Orleans’ French Quarter during Mardi Gras,
not Africa on a week-night
DESTINATIONS AFRICA
View from Table Mountain
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Claire says later. “We could see Robben Island and the
ocean dotted with boats, and Table Mountain towering
over the city on the other side of the bay.
“And the jump itself was unforgettable. After freefalling
for 30 seconds, the instructor pulled the chute and we
slowly drifted back down to Earth. It was so quiet.”
Elastic fantasticFrom then on all sights are set on the world’s highest
commercial bungee jump off Bloukrans Bridge – a gravity
defying 216m drop with only a chord of elastic to protect
you from a terminal ground-body interface. With this in
mind, we hire a car and set out along the tourist-clogged
but spectacular Garden Route, and it’s not long before I
discover why South Africa’s answer to Route 66 is so
popular.
The sheer number of sights and activities on offer
astounds: there’s dune boarding at De Hoop, black-water
tubing down Storms River; zip-wiring though the forests
of Tsitsikamma; and ostrich racing in Oudtshoorn. At long
last, I kiss a fi nal goodbye to my fears and pluck up the
courage to go zip-wiring, and spend an unforgettable
afternoon whizzing through the forest canopy like a crack-
SAS soldier (or, at least, I like to think).
Finding the Big FiveMy trip along the coast takes me as far as Addo Elephant
National Park – home to the largest concentration of
elephants on the planet – where I book a guided night-
DATES FOR YOUR DIARY
Observatory Festival of ArtsThis bohemian neighbourhood is transformed into a giant festival ground during the weekend-long music, arts and fi lm event. Observatory’s main streets are given over to live performances, gigs and market stalls.See: obsarts.org.uk
Cape Minstrels CarnivalThe mixed-race community – who form the racial majority in Cape Town – spend months rehearsing their dance steps and creating outlandish suits in preparation for a noisy Mardi Gras-style parade.See: capetownminstrels.co.za
The Cape Town CarnivalBollywood dancers vie with Zulu “warriors” and man-made giraffes for the crowd’s attention. This unusual festival is part Rio Carnival, part Lion King: The Musical – with a dash of Oktoberfest thrown in for good measure.See: capetowncarnival.com
SOUTH AFRICA > CAPE TOWN
safari to witness Africa’s big game in their eerie nocturnal
world. Driving through the bush, the driver scans the
darkness, wisely ignoring the incandescent eye-shine of
the antelope and kudu standing agape by the side of the
road. After a few twists and turns, and a pride of lions that
views us suspiciously, the driver slams on the brakes
and cuts the engine. Out of the darkness >>
Cape Minstrels Carnival
DEST Africa – Cape Town.indd 21DEST Africa – Cape Town.indd 21 25/1/12 12:36:0325/1/12 12:36:03
22 tntmagazine.com/destinations
South Africa doesn’t begin and end with Cape Town, so venture further afi eld and discover all that this diverse, surprising and beguiling country has to offer.
Kruger National Park, located in the north-east of the country and comprising more than 7000 square miles, is Africa’s oldest established wildlife park and is the perfect place to catch a glimpse of the Big Five game animals (rhino, lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant).
No venture to South Africa would be complete without a trip to a township. Soweto, on the outskirts of Johannesburg and home to almost a million people, is often referred to as the heart-beat of the nation.
The Cape Winelands, to the east, are a must for anyone who fancies a drop of vino with their vacation, and has a wealth of special tours taking in a variety of vineyards, all set to a backdrop of stunning scenery.
Hermanus, along the south-east coast, is a sumptuous coastal town famed for its whale watching, whether this be from the land or from the crest and troughs of ocean waves.
See capetown.travel/country/uk» A tandem skydive is £130 skydivecapetown.za.net » Shark diving is £115 sharkcagediving.co.za» Bungee jumping is £65 faceadrenalin.com » An elephant-back safari is £85 addoelephantbacksafaris.co.za
appears a herd of more than 60 elephants marching trunk
to tail. It is the perfect end to my jaunt up-country.
Cape wineBack in Cape Town, I spend my last few days fl itting
between the hubbub of the bars and restaurants of Long
Street and the beach, before deciding that it’s only polite
to drop by some vineyards – “when in Rome” – where I
make a beeline for the Boschendal estate near the
picturesque town of Franschhoek, and while away a
blissful couple of hours sipping wine under the arms of an
oak tree. My friends and I stock up on vino and head
back into the city to watch the sunset from Lion’s Head,
the sphinx-shaped hill that fl anks Table Mountain.
After an hour-or-so climb, we reach the top and crack
open a bottle to celebrate, toasting the magnifi cence
before us, as the setting African sun dips ever-so-slowly
into the Atlantic.
The others start reminiscing about their adrenaline-
fuelled holiday, while I slip into my own little world and
start planning my next visit. I just hope next time I’ll have
discovered my inner daredevil. n
BEST OF THE RESTSouth African sights
you can’t miss
Phot
os: S
outh
Afri
can
Tour
ism
, Sky
dive
Cap
e To
wn,
Ada
m E
dwar
ds, G
etty,
TNT
DESTINATIONS AFRICA
World’s highest bungee
Sweeping vineyards
DEST Africa – Cape Town.indd 22DEST Africa – Cape Town.indd 22 25/1/12 12:36:0525/1/12 12:36:05
23tntmagazine.com/destinations
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Experience the best of South Africa AND contribute to the country and her people!
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Fair Trade Tourism in South Africa (FTTSA) certifi es tourism businesses such as hotels, activities and attractions - from backpackers to fi ve-star lodges, township tours to whale watching cruises, adrenaline-fi lled activities to botanical gardens.
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TNT_DESTINATIONS.indd 23TNT_DESTINATIONS.indd 23 25/1/12 12:12:5925/1/12 12:12:59
24 tntmagazine.com/destinations
DESTINATIONS AFRICA
Mumbo Island
Ogle a hippo or three in the Shire River
Malawi’s Rift Valley is startlingly bio-diverse
DEST Africa – Eco Malawi.indd 24DEST Africa – Eco Malawi.indd 24 25/1/12 12:37:2825/1/12 12:37:28
MALAWI
LILONGWE
GETTING THEREKenya Airways fl ies
daily from London Heathrow to Lilongwe via Nairobi from around £570 (kenya-airways.com). South African Airways also fl ies daily from London Heathrow to Lilongwe via Johannesburg (fl ysaa.com)
How to eco-safari in Malawi Shun petrol-powered boats and electricity-guzzling hotel blocks in favour of kayaks, camping and wildlife. Here’s how to unplug in a land-locked African paradiseWORDS JENNIFER CARR
F lying 5000 miles to get to south-east Africa might not be environmentally
friendly, but anyone eco-conscious making the trip might sleep sounder to fi nd out how to do Malawi the green way. Natural splendour isn’t in short supply in the African country, so you don’t have to go the gas-guzzling route to fi nd it.
Float my boatI curl my limbs into a blisteringly hot kayak,
biceps ready to battle water on the mighty
Lake Malawi. Kaye, the sinewy Malawian
who’s accompanying me across the lake,
has his eyes locked on to one of the nine impossibly
perfect islands that protrude from the most southerly lake
in Africa’s Rift Valley. I forget myself in the midst of a
meditative, rhythmic paddle. Without warning, a whoosh
of white plumage and two metres of startling wingspan
fl anks our starboard and almost knocks the oar from my
hands. The regal African fi sh eagle responsible clearly
mimicked the RAF’s execution of a perfect fl y-by.
Our fi rst motor-free silent slink affords the kind of close-
ups you’d never get from a boisterous boat ride. With
each dip of my paddle, a wall of shimmering vertical
scales shift, disperse then rejoin; a mere fraction of the
lake’s 600 indigenous species that ensure this region is one
of the most bio-diverse on the planet. It’s like a Blu-Ray-
enhanced David Attenborough documentary with me
and my kayak on centre stage.
Conscientious camping
Two hours later we run aground on the
sand that fringes Mumbo Island and sink
our toes into what’s best described as
a sub-Saharan Eden. Shaded only by
ancient fi g and baobab trees, Mumbo
remains uninhabited except for a
community-run eco-camp of seven chic
tents. Every aspect of the camp is
sustainable – the main form of energy on
the island is solar power, which runs our
bucket showers. Torches are wind-up and
the loos are compost drop.
Each carefully made and set out
private tent area features a locally carved bed (forget
pesky rocks sticking up under ground sheets), fl oor mats,
reed-walled showers and hand-stitched hammocks, all of
which have been lovingly made with sustainable materials
by local hands. Even more charmingly, the tents are
Malawi > Eco-SAFARI
25tntmagazine.com/destinations
>>
FAST FACTSWHEN TO GO The dry season is the best for spotting game and lasts from May to mid-November. ACCOMMODATION Malawi has a selection of green hotels in Lilongwe, and a good range of eco-lodges, to provide sustainable bases for exploring the country’s nature and wildlife.CURRENCY £1 = MWK250 (Malawian Kwacha)SEE malawitourism.com; lakeofstars.org; malawianstyle.com; wilderness-safaris.com
DEST Africa – Eco Malawi.indd 25DEST Africa – Eco Malawi.indd 25 25/1/12 12:37:3325/1/12 12:37:33
26 tntmagazine.com/destinations
DESTINATIONS AFRICA
built into a second, smaller bouldered outcrop that’s
joined to the main island via a twinkling walkway of solar-
powered fairy lights.
Chill-out timeThe key to Mumbo, I quickly discover, is to unplug yourself
from the everyday. I spend the fi rst morning chasing
iridescent blue crabs and fuchsia-coloured cichlid fi sh
around the rocky shallows of Mumbo’s main beach.
My submerged squeals are lost on the other guests, all
thankfully too preoccupied in their own gleeful aquatic
discoveries. It’s not just fi sh that vie for your attention
either; dainty pied kingfi sher perch on low-hanging
branches, which are accessorised by acid-green vine
snakes. Meanwhile, Cape Claw otters fl op in and out of
the heat while giant, 1.2m-long monitor lizards shuffl e
surreptitiously into the camp’s chill-out lounge.
Forest funOne afternoon we take a forest walk up to a famed
sunset lookout and breathe in the fragrance of fi g trees,
thickening the air with top notes of fructose. As dusk
beckons I speed back for freezing local beer from the
camp’s stripped-back bar. Swigging the brew from the
soporifi c comfort of my hammock, I gaze upon the
hundreds of lantern-lit fi shermen’s boats that wink at me
through night’s blanket. I understand all too well why
David Livingstone christened this place the Lake Of Stars
when he fi rst visited in the 1800s.
Going greenMalawi’s eco merits don’t end on Mumbo. After
(begrudgingly) bidding adieu to my million-star hammock,
I kayak back to Cape Maclear and pick the brains of
a local tour guide and founder of Malawian Style, Mike
Varndell, on other guilt-free delights to be enjoyed in
Malawi. A specialist in small, sustainable experiences for
grown-up backpackers, Varndell suggests Mt Mulanje –
“an undiscovered natural wonder that offers tiered rock
pools, challenging hiking and rock climbing through one
of the highest isolated granite inselbergs on the planet”.
The 900m hike can be completed in two days, with an
overnight stop in a scenic mountain chalet.
Animal magicTo see some impressive wildlife, opt for pedals on the high
elevation grasslands that comprise the famed Nyika
Plateau. With parts of the park crossing into northern
Zambia, the plateau forms part of Malawi’s oldest national
park and plays host to the largest concentration of
leopards in central Africa. The region makes for a rewarding
thigh-burn some 2000 metres above sea level on possibly the
smoothest trails in Malawi. Besides breathtaking views of
the thickly forested valley below, Nyika’s less-frequented
lower region offers an additional reward: antelope,
elephant, rhino and plentiful zebra are all regularly
spotted grazing on the expansive grasslands.
Another spot Vandell cites as essential is Liwonde
National Park, where Mvuu Lodge, a sustainable nature Phot
os:M
alaw
iTou
rism
Ian
Cum
min
gsGe
ttyTh
inks
tock
Kayak to Mumbo
DEST Africa – Eco Malawi.indd 26DEST Africa – Eco Malawi.indd 26 25/1/12 12:37:3525/1/12 12:37:35
LAKE OF STARS FESTIVAL
Lake Of Stars has a hell of a reputation to live up to. Dubbed by Q Magazine as the “best festival in the world”, the four-day international festival of the arts has hosted acts including The Noisettes, Get Cape. Wear Cape. Fly, Beverley Knight, MistaJam, Goldierocks, Foals and Baio from the mighty Vampire Weekend.
Alongside the big acts, revellers are treated to sets from local performers and DJs. The event attracts people from all around the world who are keen to party with the locals, all to a soundtrack of Malawian dub, reggae, ska, hip hop, funk and soul.
The festival, which was inspired by Live Aid, WOMAD and Glastonbury, aims to use the arts to boost Malawi’s economy and get exposure for the country as a tourist destination. And over the eight years since its inception, more and more music lovers have come to join the party (last year there were 3800 attendees) at the Sunbird Nkopola Lodge on the palm-fringed shores of Mangochi, at the southern tip of Lake Malawi.
The festival, which is run almost entirely by volunteers, generated more than £620,000 for Malawi’s economy in 2010. But as well as helping existing companies, £1 from every ticket goes to the MicroLoan Foundation, which helps people set up small, self-sustainable businesses.
There’s also a Lake of Stars outreach programme which puts on a series of musical, educational and sporting events for the local community.
Tickets cost £85 and the festival takes place every October. See: lakeofstars.org
» Jennifer Carr travelled with Malawian Style and Mvuu Camp. Malawian Style offers a range of safaris, from kayaking and sailing to hiking and biking. See the malawianstyle.com for prices
Phot
os: M
alaw
i Tou
rism
, Ian
Cum
min
gs, G
etty,
Thi
nkst
ock
Malawi > Eco-SAFARI
camp, teeters on a bend of the crocodile-infested Shire
River in the Rift Valley. The camp successfully bridges the
divide between Malawian communities and existing
wildlife. Hundreds of locals benefi t from employment at
the camp and there are obvious signs of reforestation as
we approach the main heart of the lodge. After a quick
run-through on camp protocol – “the bongo in your room
is to bang if you need escorting through the camp after
dark” – we set off on a sunset cruise in one of the camp’s
eco-friendly four-stroke engine boats to explore the river.
We encounter umpteen hippo, waterbuck, birdlife,
elephants and river crocodiles during the two-hour cruise.
It’s hard to be anything but awed. As my eyes adjust to
the growing twilight, the sun’s alchemy fl ecking the river
with a burnt, blushing rose gold, I’m reminded yet again
that some of the best experiences in travel need no
human intervention. n
Low-hanging branches are accessorised by acid-green
vine snakes
27tntmagazine.com/destinations
DEST Africa – Eco Malawi.indd 27DEST Africa – Eco Malawi.indd 27 25/1/12 12:37:3925/1/12 12:37:39
28 tntmagazine.com/destinations28
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TNT_DESTINATIONS.indd 28TNT_DESTINATIONS.indd 28 25/1/12 12:13:0425/1/12 12:13:04
The Garden Route is an impossibly scenic and inspirational stretch of south-east Cape coastline
– 200km in length and bordered on one side by the Tsitsikamma and Outeniqua mountains, and the Indian Ocean on the other. It’s so named because its vegetated state (think colour-drenched fl ora and fauna and lush lagoons and lakes) contrasts so dramatically with the country’s arid interior.
But this is just part of the area’s appeal. For those with
something of the daredevil about them, who enjoy facing
their mortality in the most adrenaline-charged of manners,
the Garden Route offers many unique ways in which to
counterbalance the tranquillity of the natural environment
with some adventurous activities.
1 Jumping into oblivionFor anyone with nerves of steel, the world’s highest, biggest,
most badass bungee jump awaits – 216m off the Bloukrantz
Bridge near Plettenberg Bay. If that’s not enough, then
there is an alternative option – jumping out of one of
GARDEN ROUTE > TOP 5
29tntmagazine.com/destinations
>>
Get face-to-face with Jaws
Best of the Garden Route Cage dive with sharks, slug the country’s best port and explore underground, all in one whirlwind trip. There’s a reason South Africa’s Route 66 is so popular ... WORDS ALASDAIR MORTON
DEST Africa – Garden Route.indd 29DEST Africa – Garden Route.indd 29 25/1/12 12:39:4025/1/12 12:39:40
30 tntmagazine.com/destinations
DESTINATIONS AFRICA
Surf in the Indian Ocean
Cape Town’s cable cars high above Table Mountain.
But the ultimate way to see the sights is to skydive.
From the vantage point of 10,000 feet above, experience
a 30-second freefall followed by a fi ve-minute glide to the
ground. The scenic Route coast to the south of Port Elizabeth
is the perfect backdrop over which to take the plunge.
See: gardenroute.co.za
2 CalitzdorpA small town located in the heart of the Klein Karoo region,
Calitzdorp is a quaint place to visit. Apart from its quirksome
charm, it also has something more tangible going for it – it’s
the port capital of the country.
Known as such because of the quality of the port
made in this region, it is a must-visit for anyone looking to
sample the local fortifi ed produce.
See: calitzdorp.co.za
3 Shark divingComing face-to-face with the rows and rows of cerrated
teeth that belong to one of this planet’s deadliest
predators is what the shark diving experience is all about.
The waters off the Route are home to one of the largest
populations of great whites anywhere, making it the
perfect place to get up close and personal with this
fearsome creature.
See: sharkwatchsa.com
4 OudtshoornThe Garden Route has scenery to die for, but the town of
Oudtshoorn is known for a particular kind of ‘underground’
appeal. The subterranean limestone caverns of the Cango
Caves offer a glimpse of a bewitching below-surface
world, where time and water have eroded the rock into
truly fantastic forms.
The region is also home to no fewer than 400 ostrich
farms. Equally impressive – but in a very different way.
See: oudtshoorninfo.com
5 Surfi ngWith some of the world’s most exquisite beaches and
waves, surfi ng – whether you’re a seasoned pro or a
wobbly kneed newcomer – is a pursuit this part of the
country is particularly well suited for.
The waters of the Indian Ocean boast the perfect
conditions to paddle out into, so wetsuit up and grab a
board (and if you’re a newcomer, an instructor too). Sea
kayaking’s an alternative for the balance-challenged.
See: gardenrouteadventures.com/surfi ng n
GETTING THEREFlights from London
Gatwick to Cape Town, via Istanbul, start around £505 return with Turkish Airlines. (turkishairlines.com)
SOUTH AFRICA
CAPE TOWN
Port Elizabeth
INDIAN OCEAN
Oudrtshoorn
Go underground
Visit the port capital
Phot
os: W
hite
Sha
rk D
iving
Com
pany
, Sou
th A
frica
Tou
rism
, Thi
nkst
ock
DEST Africa – Garden Route.indd 30DEST Africa – Garden Route.indd 30 25/1/12 12:39:4225/1/12 12:39:42
31tntmagazine.com/destinations
WELCOME TO CAPE TOWN
Camping, dorm, private and en-suite accommodation.
BOOST YOUR GREEN KARMA AT GREEN ELEPHANT BACKPACKERS
57 Milton Road, Observatory+27-21-4486359 www.greenelephant.co.za
• Introductory Tandem Skydive
• Accelerated Freefall Training
• Static Line Training• All discipline Sports Skydiving• Freefall and Parachute Coaching• Aerial Photography• Bespoke Merchandise• Corporate Team Building Events• Personalised Engagement / Birthday
& Bucket List Packages
EXTREME SKYDIVE PACKAGE Not for the faint at heart. This is adventure stunt production – take 1!! You are trained to do a roll exit forwards or backwards at high velocity and then pull off some high G turns before opening your parachute. Under canopy your instructor will then let you take the reins and your rollercoaster ride begins.
TANDEM SKYDIVE MEDIA PACKAGE Join us for an exhilarating 20 minute plane ride to 10,500ft where you will exit the plane and experience 35 seconds of freefall. Your tandem instructor will then open the parachute and together you will fl oat gently back down to terra fi rma. We will capture every moment on digital video and edit your production with funky soundtracks. We will also take 100 + wide angle stills and add that to your cart. Remember to smile and wave…
www.skydivepe.comT +27 73 267 [email protected]
tntmagazine.com/tefl
Perfect for readers looking to: ‹ Combine travel and work ‹ Teach during their gap year
‹ Have a career change ‹ Work part-time with flexible hours
} There are many job opportunities worldwide to teach English to children, teenagers or adults.
} You could be in Eastern Europe, Italy, Spain, Costa Rica or Japan teaching English in a classroom,privately one-to-one, or even online.
*Teaching English as a Foreign Language
For further info or to book your place see: Courses conducted by
International TEFL Training
Teach EnglishCombine travel & work
Weekend Intensive TEFL CourseLanguage School
ONLY £150 (normally
£200)
DATE 11-12 Feb, 2012
TIME 9am - 6pm
VENUE Holland Park YHAHolland House, Holland Walk Kensington W8 7QU
High St Kensington or Holland Park
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NEW!
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Overland travel by fully equipped
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2Small group
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4Comfy camping
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5
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