TNT Destination Features - Issue 9

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DestinationsASIA

CAMBODIAN COAST NORTH KOREA TREKKING NEPALPLUS

JUNGLE FEVERDiscovering hidden Thailand

2 tntmagazine.com/destinations

DESTINATIONS ASIA

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A Cambodian monk

Khmer temples Off the beaten track

GETTING THEREFly from London

Heathrow to Phnom Penh, via Kuala Lumpur, with Malaysia Airlines from around £708 return. (malaysiaairlines.com)

Coasting along Leave behind Cambodia’s brutal past and delve into its hopeful present with a trip to the idyllic beaches and unexplored rainforests of the country’s south-west coast WORDS LUCY C.E JORDAN

As I walk Phnom Penh’s hot, busy streets, tuk-tuk drivers call out to me.

Do I want to go to S-21? The Killing Fields? You can’t blame them for making an

assumption about a rucksack-toting tourist.

After all, most visitors to Cambodia come

for little more than a hit-and-run tour of its

rich and tragic history – the sublime

temples of Angkor Wat, or Phnom Penh’s

macabre monuments to its bloody past:

former torture camp S-21 and the Khmer

Rouge’s Killing Fields.

But right now I’m not looking for

Cambodia’s history. I’m looking for a taxi to meet friends

in Kep, to begin a more chilled out, and less touristed,

exploration of Cambodia’s present day on the country’s

south-west coast.

KepAn erstwhile favourite of the French and Cambodian elite,

I fi nd that even in Kep Cambodia’s history proves hard to

escape. The town is dotted with the bombed-out bones of

once-grand seaside villas targeted by the Khmer Rouge

for righteous destruction.

But Kep is vital, too. Colourful fl owers and lush vegeta-

tion erupt from the ruins, and irrepressible goats have the

run of the place (they bear no respect for personal

belongings). Monks in ochre robes amble down rust-red

dirt tracks, and local kids compete to give us directions to

the crab market, thrilled to practice their English. It’s

peaceful, but not a ghost town. “What

really strikes me in Kep is the sense of

isolation,” a fellow traveller, Dmitry, says.

“But in a good way.”

Kep National Park looms above the

town, and can be circumnavigated in

two hours – just long enough to warrant a

reward at Knai Bang Chatt, a dazzlingly

white luxury hotel on the seafront. The

rates, which begin at US$115 (just less than

£75) a night, are too rich for our budget,

but we savour the two-for-one happy

hour cocktails as the sky blushes pink over

the Gulf of Thailand.

The seafood in this town is renowned, and rightly so.

Our waitress at Kim Ly, for my money the best of the

restaurants in a row of stilt houses jutting out over the

water, tells us that Kep crabs are particularly delicious

because they spend half their lives in the mangroves,

CAMBODIA > SOUTH-WEST COAST

3tntmagazine.com/destinations

>>

FAST FACTSWHEN TO GO The best time to visit is from December to February, when the weather is dry, but not blisteringly hot, and the vegetation is still green from the wet season. However, during the wet season it rarely rains all day, the fl ights are cheaper, the tourists fewer, and the countryside lusher. ACCOMMODATION Check out our recommendations on P5.CURRENCY £1= 6250KHR (Cambodian riel).SEE tourismcambodia.com

CAMBODIA

PHNOM PENH

THAILAND

Kep

Koh Kong


DESTINATIONS ASIA

and “it makes them fat.” After the waitress takes our order,

we see her brother calmly wade into the pitch-black sea

and pluck our still-living supper from a tethered wooden

crate. They are unbelievably good – plump, succulent,

and perfectly spiced with fragrant local green pepper.

Mainland Kep doesn’t have a decent beach, but the

scruffi ly idyllic Rabbit Island is only a 20-minute boat ride

away. You’re as likely to meet a friendly puppy or a cow

as a fellow sun-seeker here. Good seafood, cold drinks,

and massages are on offer, but there’s no sense of

urgency – it’s all tout-free and wonderfully laid-back.

There are a few bare bones bungalows where you can

stay, but don’t expect a scene – the handful of locals shut

off their generators after 9pm.

Koh Kong Four of us then split a taxi to Koh Kong, and squeeze

ourselves in for the fi ve- or six-hour, US$70 (£45) ride.

Until relatively recently, residual fi ghting and poor

infrastructure meant Koh Kong remained largely

untouched by tourists. Now new roads and bridges have

allowed eco-tourism projects to fl ourish and help protect

the area by giving a wage to locals who have historically

logged the rainforest or poached to survive.

We’ve opted for Rainbow Lodge, a solar-powered

cluster of bungalows wedged in a verdant corner

between the Tatai river and the edge of the Cardamom

Mountains – an expanse of rainforest containing some of

Asia’s most endangered species: Malayan sunbears,

clouded leopards and Irrawaddy dolphins. The

Cardamoms are widely considered to house Southeast

Asia’s greatest natural resources in terms of forests and

habitats that have never been fully explored.

Janet, Rainbow Lodge’s British owner, sends a boat to

meet us at the bridge where the taxi drops us and take us

down river to our bungalows.

Koh Kong is a great spot for energetic travellers, and

we’re pretty busy over the next few days. We bike to a

tangled, otherworldly mangrove swamp. We kayak up the

Tatai river to a waterfall. (I’ve never seen so many

butterfl ies.) On a day-trip to Koh Kong Island, which boasts

almost painfully beautiful beaches, deserted but for a few

yawning Cambodian soldiers, a pod of dolphins frolics in

the wake of our boat. And, somehow, we also manage to

spend a decent amount of time lying in hammocks, cold

Angkor beer in hand, listening to gibbons holler and

whoop in the trees, as though at a raucous party. I willfully

push thoughts of returning to the city out of my mind.

He wades into the pitch-black sea and plucks out

our still-living supper

Rabbit Island

Hassle-free beach time


WE RECOMMEND...

Jasmine Valley in Kep is a solar-powered, lush eco-retreat nestled under Kep National Park and serving home-grown produce. Lovely basic bungalows with hammocked balconies and friendly resident dogs. Rates from around £15 to £40pn. jasminevalley.com; [email protected]

Rainbow Lodge in Koh Kong is an incredibly scenic eco-lodge perched on the edge of the Tatai river, with the rainforested Cardamom Mountains stretching behind. There’s free access to kayaks for puttering about on the river, and Janet, the owner, can arrange trekking, boat trips and camping. Double bungalows are about £45pn for two people. rainbowlodgecambodia.com; [email protected]

Wildlife Alliance has helped set up two CBETs (Community-Based Eco-Tourism projects) in Koh Kong, in Chi Phay and Trapeang Roung, both of which employ former hunters to run their tours. ecoadventurecambodia.org

Phot

os: D

mitr

y Gu

dkov

, Alla

n M

icha

ud, G

etty

, Thi

nkst

ock

CAMBODIA > SOUTH-WEST COAST

On our penultimate night, we take Janet up on the

offer of a night in the jungle. I love the outdoors, but

remain a reluctant camper, having one too many grim

childhood memories of wet holidays spent pathetically

needling my teenaged sisters to play cards with me. But

this is no dank Welsh hillside. After a few hours of trekking

through the jungle, we reach a spot where the river snakes

and fl attens out into a wide, tranquil pool, and the vista

opens up to reveal clouds settling over an adjacent peak.

We dive into the water. Our guides pitch shelter and set up

a barbeque. Despite the jungle’s cacophony, I sleep like

a baby, well-fed and exhausted.

It strikes me, lying there, that so many come seeking

Cambodia’s history that they miss out on what might be a

short-lived heyday for these quiet areas. This could be a

tipping point – political stability and growth have allowed

access to these remote regions, but that access has yet to

be exploited in full by aggressive economic interests.

In April, Prime Minister Hun Sen withdrew permission for

a titanium mine in the Cardamoms after a campaign by

conservationists. It’s a win, but it’s hard to say if this sudden

eco-consciousness will last – the decision came as a

surprise to many here, and his track record elsewhere

hasn’t been great, to say the least.

But for now, this part of Cambodia remains enchanting

and feels a world away from the crush of Angkor and

Phnom Penh’s intense museum circuit. Come see it while

you can. n

Angkor Wat Tours - Cambodia

www.asiavipa.com

1-6 day

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DESTINATIONS ASIA

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Making a splash

Get lost in the jungle

Rural rice paddies

The world’s longest wooden bridge

THAILAND

BANGKOK

Sangkhlaburi

GETTING THEREThai Airways fl ies daily

from London to Bangkok from £598 return. (thaiairways.co.uk)

Welcome to the jungle Ever heard of Sangkhlaburi? Exactly. We stray from the well wandered trail to fi nd a Thailand that’s far removed from beaches, cocktail buckets and ping pong WORDS ALISON GRINTER

As soon as I clap eyes on Sangkhlaburi, I know it’s the Shangri-La I’ve been

waiting for. From my hotel balcony I can see the sleepy frontier town set low in a valley beside a calm, limpid lake dotted with longboats. Two gold temples jut out of the lush foliage on the mist-shrouded hills above. Hot, manic Bangkok seems like a distant memory to me now. From the capital we have travelled

north-east and stopped overnight in

Kanchanaburi, famed for its bridge over

the River Kwai. The fast-running Kwai was

beautiful, and the town laidback, but the

tourist-infested bridge was enough to make us want to

fl ee into the jungle – which is exactly what we did.

Peaceful Sangklahburi, 150km north of Kanchanaburi and

a few miles from the Burmese border, fi ts the bill perfectly.

We are now in Karen – pronounced ‘Callian’ – country

where the people make up the largest of the major hill

tribes of northern Thailand.

In this part of the world, it’s almost obligatory to have

an elephant ride, and our hosts don’t let us down. But this

being the tropics, it has rained overnight and our truck

journey via slippery roads is a white-knuckle ride. It’s still

drizzling when we climb on to our beasts and go tramping

through the jungle. My Indian elephant, Papoo, behaves

impeccably and thankfully doesn’t start trumpeting wildly

like some of the others when a group of Buddhist monks

roars past in a motorboat.

The next day, our adventure is

supposed to involve white-water rafting

on the Song Kalia river. But the rain has

made the rapids too powerful, so we go

tubing instead. While fl oating down a river

on the inner tube of a tractor wheel may

sound lame, it’s brilliant fun – the sort of

simple pleasure you experienced as a kid.

Plus, with the strong current threatening to

spirit us to Burma, it’s actually more of an

adrenaline ride than I’d expected.

Back on dry land, there’s an

undeniable ‘ah-this-is-the-life’ moment, as

I sip a Leo beer in a bamboo hut beside

the river. If you get sick of drinking beer, there’s always the

local whiskey, Hong Tong – but it should come with a

warning: too much Hong Tong can make you ting tong

(that’s Thai for ‘crazy’) as we’d found out the night before.

Next, it’s time to explore Sangkhlaburi properly. The

THAILAND > SANGKHLABURI


>>

FAST FACTSWHEN TO GO March to May can be uncomfortably hot. It rains least and is less hot between November and February.CURRENCY £1= 48.49 Thai BahtACCOMMODATION Sangkhlaburi: P Guest House, Tumbom Nonglu. Accommodation and adventure packages from £17pppn. (p-guesthouse.com) Bangkok: Navalai River Resort. Doubles from £60 per night (high season); £43 per night (low). (navalai.com)SEE tourismthailand.org


DESTINATIONS ASIA

original town was fl ooded when the reservoir was built in

1984, and remains underwater, a bit like the original town

of Jindabyne in Australia.

It is a fascinating blend of ethnicities with Burmese,

Karen, Mon, Thai and Lao people all living here.

It’s also home to the longest wooden bridge in the

world which leads to the Mon Village of Wang Kha. The

Mon people, who fl ed the oppressive regime in their

homeland of Burma, now call Wang Kha home.

Here you can get up close to the two gleaming

temples known collectively as Wat Wang Wiwekaram.

Though this part of Thailand barely rates a mention in my

guidebooks, there are signs it won’t stay undiscovered for

long: the guesthouse behind our hotel serves fl at whites to a

soundtrack of groovy lounge music – the Western infl uence

is creeping in. Go now, while it’s still off the beaten path. n

» Alison Grinter travelled to Thailand with Real Gap Experience. Prices start from £999 for four weeks including accommodation, airport transfer and tour of Bangkok and Kanchanaburi. realgap.co.uk

BEST TOURISTY THAILAND

Bangkok The bars, the markets, the ping pong, the street food: there’s a reason backpackers love Bangkok. Actually, there’s about 100 of them.

Chiang Mai A quieter alternative to the capital, leafy Chaing Mai is still a backpacker mecca, but a more cultured one. Elephant rides, street markets, and the unique northern Thai food are big draws; also go check out the ‘monk chat’ at the Buddhist University.

Ko Phi Phi With pristine white sand, soaring cliffs and turquoise waters, Ko Phi Phi’s reputation for otherworldly, paradisical beauty precedes it. It’s also a party island, so don’t come here for peace and quiet.

Koh Samui Nightlife, beaches, shopping, budget bungalows, luxury hotels, Buddhist temples: this large island resort has something to suit all tastes.

Koh Pha-Ngan Famous for the Full Moon Parties which attract thousands of hedonists each month.

Koh Tao This tiny, scrubby island offers some of Thailand’s best diving. Free from massive resorts, it’s also a quieter brand of tourist trap.

Krabi Forget sand and sea – with 700 climbs to choose from, Krabi’s dramatic limestone cliffs will entice climbers of all levels.

This part of Thailand barely gets a mention in guidebooks, but it won’t stay undiscovered

Elephant trekking

Phot

os:

Getty

, TNT

Meet the locals! Tad Si Falls, Luang Prabang

LAOS AND THAILANDWITH CAMBODIA PASS OPTIONS

��

Get further off the beaten track in the Stray bus!

Remote Village, Luang Namtha

Get closer to the action, we include time for activities!

The famous tubing, Vang ViengGet immersed in local culture.Monks, Luang Prabang

+ FLEXIBILITY TO ʻHOP ONʼ AND ʼHOP OFFʼ+ SAVE MONEY WITH GROUP DISCOUNTS AND LOCAL GUIDANCE+ REMOTE VILLAGES, AMAZING CULTURE, FOOD AND WILDLIFE+ LOCAL BOATS, TRAINS AND OUR OWN BUSES TO PIONEER THE WILDERNESS

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Stray off the track Stray Asia is a ‘hop-on hop-off ’ travel network getting adventurous travellers further off the beaten track in Thailand, Laos and Cambodia

It is true, public transport is cheap, but this only goes from point to point between the bigger towns, particularly in

Laos, and it will not help you access the truly unique stuff that is well off the beaten track. Stray’s route visits remote villages with amazing culture such as Tha Bak, where you can ride in boats made out of old bombs, or Nong Khiaw, where you can learn to fi sh in a traditional way. The route also offers amazing scenery and wildlife such as elephants, tigers, bears, monkeys and turtles.

We employ both Western and local guides who have

in-depth knowledge of history and culture, helping you to

get the most out of your trip. Combine these features with

frequent departures and the freedom to break your

journey at any point to do things like spending three nights

in the rainforest with the gibbons, partaking in a mahout

course, or learning Muay Thai boxing, and you really do

have the ingredients for the perfect adventure! Stray has

offi ces in both Bangkok and Luang Prabang, offering


DESTINATIONS ADVERTORIAL

Feeding the big fellaKuang Si Falls

travellers a handy point of contact with the crew who are

close to the action and up-to-date with what is happening

at all times. Stray use their own buses in Laos to pioneer

the wilderness, ensuring reliability and comfortable travel.

Take your timeStray urges travellers to take a bit more time to truly

experience the amazing destination that is South East

Asia. Do more than simply go to a ‘Full Moon Party’ and

spend a few days in Chiang Mai and you will quickly

realise how much you miss out on by not venturing further

afi eld. Northern Thailand still offers a lot of great cultural

and off-the-beaten track experiences, but Laos is

particularly mind-blowing. This area only opened up to

Western tourists in the Nineties, and, accordingly, the

environment, the culture and the people are relatively

untouched by the rest of the world. You will also be

amazed by how far your money will go with great meals

for less than US$5 and guest-house accommodation still

going for US$5 in many places.

Stray Asia attracts adventurous travellers from all over

the world, those who seek an amazing experience that is

unique to each and every one of them. We have passes

to suit everyone, whether you are travelling for only a few

days or for months. Two of Stray Asia’s most popular

passes are Tom Yum and the Big Wat.

The Tom YumThe Tom Yum pass explores northern Thailand and northern

Laos (minimum 10 days, although you can hop off

anywhere and spend longer of course).

This is a comprehensive trip starting in Bangkok,

beginning with a train journey visiting the ancient capitals

of Sukhothai and Chiang Mai enroute to the northern

Laos. Once in Laos, join the Stray bus and encounter the

magic of the northern provinces; Luang Namtha, trekking

central; Luang Prabang remote river villages and the

monastic capital of the same name; Vang Vieng with its

tubing and nightlife; and Vientiane, the country’s capital.

Hop off the Stray bus in Vientiane for the overnight train

back to Bangkok.

The Big WatThe Big Wat pass is designed for those travellers who have

three weeks or more and want to see as much as possible

STRAY TRAVEL


Good times at the White Temple

All aboard the Bomb Boats Fishing near Nong Khiaw

in Thailand, Laos and Cambodia. This adventure Strays

into northern Thailand, south through Laos, and on to

Cambodia. By joining Stray in Bangkok, you can travel to

Sukhothai and Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand, enjoying

a free day in Chiang Mai, before meeting the mighty

orange Stray bus in Huay Xai, Laos.

Experience Laos from the mountains and vibrant

cultures in the north to the amazing culture, wildlife and

wilderness in the south. Our southern circuit goes to some

truly pioneering territory, including the Tad Leuk waterfall

and wilderness camp in Phou Khao Khouay National

Protected Area, and the Kong Lor 7km cave; you also get

the chance to to make new monkey mates by our remote

homestay in Xe Champhone wetlands area. Head south

through Cambodia on a local bus to the main highlights of

Phnom Penh and Siem Reap and then back to Bangkok.

This is an incredible adventure that will blow you away! n

» Stray Asia offers great a range of passes, for varying time frames and start/fi nish locations, including our 5 Day Northern Heritage Route (The Long Thaang) covering important historical sites such as the Plain of Jars, and our unguided transport option to the beautiful Thai Islands and the home of the Full Moon party, Koh Phangan (The Bucket Pass)


DESTINATIONS ASIA

The backpacker trail

The Annapurna’s snowy peaks

Terraced rice fi elds

GETTING THEREReturn fl ights from

London Heathrow to Kathmandu, with a stop-off in Doha, cost from £497 with Qatar Airways. (qatarairways.com)

Take a hike Trekking the Annapurna mountains in Nepal is on every traveller’s to-do list. We discover how to do it and help the local communities along the way WORDS LISA YOUNG

In the early morning darkness I clamber into a taxi that will transport me from the

peaceful lakeside town of Pokhara to Naya Phul, a gateway to Nepal’s Annapurna Range. Over the next few days, I will explore a new trek route, where my staying in locally run lodges will help support the community.

The fi rst part of the trail climbs

deceivingly slowly, then there is an abrupt

change of pace; the next two days require

me to climb a steep stone staircase through

small villages, forests and terraced fi elds to

the villages of Birenthanti and Ulleri.

On average I’m walking six hours daily, covering up to

7kms, depending on the mountain’s incline. After the fi rst

couple of days, I enter into the territory of the new trek,

where there are so far very few tourists.

Funds raised by local villagers and donations from

trekking businesses, such as Imaginative Traveller, have

enabled the locals to build and run lodges here. This

pioneering concept creates village rather than private

ownership, and profi ts from trekkers who stay at the lodges

will contribute towards various community projects.

The scenery here is lush and green, with ingenious contour

farming and immaculately cared-for terraced fi elds.

Three days in, I navigate thick rhododendron forests

until I reach a small herder’s settlement at the top of a

ridge. This is my home for the night. It’s clean, comfortable

and well-constructed. There’s no electricity, but the

herders charge their mobiles by using

small portable solar panels.

Six steep hours of zig-zagging trekking

fi ll the next day, as we climb up to Kopra

Ridge (3870m).

At the top of the ridge I’m greeted with

widescreen panoramic views of the

mountains. Across the Kali Gandakhi

Valley – the deepest valley in the world –

the western skyline is totally dominated by

the Dhaulagiri Himal, bright white and the

world’s seventh highest mountain.

Kopra Ridge lodge is the highlight of

the community trek and profi ts have

contributed to a secondary school in the nearby village of

Nangi. The ridge is home to a yak herd. Watching more

than 100 of the animals coming down the ridge with the

snow-dusted Annapurna mountains and an incandescent

orange-and-red sunset behind them is spectacular.

NEPAL > COMMUNITY TREKKING


>>

FAST FACTSWHEN TO GO During the dry season, between October and May. October and November are the best months with consistently warm days, but they are also the busiest. December to February is quieter, but can become uncomfortably cold at altitude. CURRENCY £1 = 126NPR (Nepalese rupees).ACCOMMODATION Try Annapurna Guesthouse in Kathmandu. Rooms from £5pn. (hostelworld.com) SEE welcomenepal.com

INDIA

KATHMANDU

NEPAL

CHINA

Naya Phul


DESTINATIONS ASIA

TREKKING TIPS

Travel insurance is highly recommended before setting off.

Take two water bottles. Avoid buying bottled mineral water. Instead pay a few rupees to the lodge staff for freshly boiled water – let it cool overnight.

Take plenty of small Nepali Rupee notes as lodges struggle to fi nd change.

Tips are discretionary, but the going rate is £2 - £3 for each porter and guide per day from each trekker.

Avoid trekking alone in remote areas, especially if you are a woman.

Carry a dry-bag or plastic rubbish bags to protect your gear from rain.

Be polite and courteous to locals and fellow trekkers, ‘Namaste’ is the local greeting for a friendly ‘hello’.

The following morning I rise with the sun and am

traversing the ridge along a narrow path with steep drops

and rocky terrain. The trail rises and falls all the way.

My latest lodge boasts awesome views of the

Dhaulagiri Himal, with the 6000m deep Kali Gandaki

Gorge below.

The last two days of the trek descend sharply from

3448m to 2100m, a drop of 1348m straight downhill for

7kms over knotted tree roots, past gushing waterfalls,

across old landslides and through humid jungle. The

temperature increases with each step I take.

Down and down I go, through stunning scenery until I

reach the beautiful Gurung village of Gandruk.

Returning to Naya Phul, I head straight down a stone

staircase through small farms. In contrast to the serene

and peaceful mountains, I return to Pokhara and onwards

to the organised chaos of Kathmandu. n

Seeing 100 yaks with the snow-dusted mountains behind

them is spectacular

» Imaginative Traveller’s 11-day Annapurna Community Lodge Trek tour starts from £495pp, including accommodation, transport, trekking staff services, porters and a tour leader. imaginative-traveller.co.uk

Grazing yak herdsView from Kopra Ridge

Phot

os:

Lisa

You

ng, G

etty

, Thi

nkst

ock

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DESTINATIONS ASIA

Are you a Young Pioneer? Budget Tours to North Korea, Chernobyl, Iran,

and anywhere your mum would rather you stayed away from.

www.youngpioneertours.com

young pioneer tours

5% discountJust mention

TNT

GETTING THEREYou can only visit

North Korea with an organised tour, the price of which will include travel from Beijing. Return fl ights from London to Beijing via Dubai start at £527 with Emirates. (emirates.com)

Kumsusan Memorial Palace

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A guard at the DMZ

Pyongyang Metro

NORTH KOREA

PYONGYANG

SOUTH KOREA

Beijing

CHINA

Tower of the Juche Idea

Mansudae Grand Monument

Inside the hermit kingdom One of the world’s most mysterious nations, a trip to North Korea will earn you some serious kudos on the backpacker circuit. Here are the top sights to see WORDS LUCY CORNE

North Korea is the world’s most secretive nation. Independent travel is unheard of; instead, tour groups

are watched over at all times by government guides on an intense schedule – an exhausting but mesmerising peek into the totalitarian regime ruled over by Kim Jong-il (The Dear Leader) and his dead father Kim Il-sung (The Great Leader).

Kumsusan Memorial PalaceThe fi nal resting place of the Great Leader is the jewel in

capital Pyongyang’s crown of bizarre monuments. You pass

through a doorway blasting out cool jets of air into a room

lit only by red bulbs. As your eyes grow accustomed

to the dim lighting, you gradually make out the shapes

before you – a glass case and, behind the glass, the

embalmed remains of deceased head of state, Kim II-sung.

Mansudae Grand MonumentThis 20-metre-high bronze statue of Kim Il-sung

is revered by North Koreans. Take fl owers to lay at its feet

and reserve your deepest bow for this gargantuan image.

Tower of the Juche Idea‘Juche’ is Kim Il-sung’s theory of self-reliance, the ideology

that makes North Korea the secretive nation it is today.

Overlooking the Taedong River, the 170-metre-high tower

topped with a perpetually glowing fi breglass fl ame

(electricity fl ows at the monuments, though not always in

the city) gives great views over Pyongyang.

Pyongyang Metro

In most places, the metro is a way to move between

attractions, but in a country as mysterious as this, everything

becomes a sight in its own right. The alarmingly deep

stations (doubling as nuclear bunkers) are adorned with

chandeliers and the ubiquitous propaganda paintings that

characterise North Korea.

Mount PaekduThe alleged birthplace of Kim Jong-il is an extinct volcano

in the country’s far north and a spectacularly beautiful

spot. If you’re getting propaganda withdrawal symptoms,

the Secret Camp and monuments to the Dear Leader’s

glorious life will deliver your fi x. Want more natural beauty?

Try Kumgangsan, the ‘Diamond Mountains’ perfect for

hikers, mountaineers and photographers.

The DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) The world’s most fascinating (and heavily armed) border

separates North from South. Tours from either country offer

an interesting slice of history and a chance to peer at

soldiers from the other side just a few metres away.

International Friendship ExhibitionAdmire highlights from the 100,000-plus collection of gifts

presented to Kim Jong-il and his father from admirers

worldwide – from teddies and crockery to animal pelts,

bullet-proof cars and a full-size waxwork of the Great

Leader in Disney-like surrounds. n

NORTH KOREA > WHAT TO SEE


Phot

os: G

etty

TNT Destination Features - Issue 9

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Transcript of TNT Destination Features - Issue 9