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FACIALMOISTURIZERS101bySusanBarclayNicholshttp://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com

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NATURALCALENDULA&ROSEHIPSEEDOILFACIALMOISTURIZER.......................................................1NATURALROSEHIP&CALENDULAMOISTURIZERRECIPE.........................................................................2BASICHYALURONICACIDGEL...................................................................................................................3

OILBASEDFACIALSERUM....................................................................................................................3SWEETALMOND&POMEGRANATEFACIALSERUM.................................................................................4

OILFREEHYDRO-GEL............................................................................................................................5NIACINAMIDE&WILLOWBARKOILFREEMOISTURIZER..........................................................................6

COLDEMULSIFIERMOISTURIZERWITHARISTOFLEXAVC......................................................................7GIGAWHITE&VITAMINCMOISTURIZER..................................................................................................7

Todaywe’lltakealookatfourdifferentproductswecanuseasfacialmoisturizers.Thefirstisagreenandnaturalheatedoil-in-waterlotionusingSimulgreen18-2.Thesecondisananhydrousoilserumwithloadsoflovelylight,non-greasyoils.Thethirdisanoil-freehydro-gelcreatedwithSepinovEMT10,apre-neutralizedpolymer.AndthefourthusesAristoflexAVCtomakeacoldoil-in-waterlotion.Thegoalofalltheseproductsistoreducetransepidermalwaterloss,moisturizebyusingoils,andhydrateusingwatersolubleingredientslikehumectantsorproteins.Toeach,I’llbeaddingafewcosmeceuticalsoractiveingredientsthatwillhelpwiththeappearanceoffinelinesandwrinkles,reducingsebumproduction,promotingamoreevenskintone,andotherissues.Andforeach,I’llgiveyouafewsuggestionsotheractiveingredientsyoumightliketotry.

NATURALCALENDULA&ROSEHIPSEEDOILFACIALMOISTURIZERForthisrecipe,I’musingingredientsthatareconsiderednatural,likeouroils,orcertifiedasgreenbyorganizationslikeECOcertandNatrue.Thisisanoil-in-waterlotionusinganemulsifiertobringtogetheroilsolubleingredientsandwatersolubleingredientstocreateatraditionalfacialmoisturizer.Myheatedlotionshavethreephases–theheatedwaterphase,theheatedoilphase,andthecooldownphase.Everythingwatersolublethathandlesheatwellgoesintotheheatedwaterphase.Everythingoilsolublethathandlesheatwellgoesintotheheatedoilphase.Everythingelseendsupinthecooldownphase.Asmyhumectant,I’musinghyaluronicacidat0.1%intheheatedwaterphase.Icouldadditat0.1%tothewaterphase,orIcouldmakethegelyouseeonpage3andusethatat10%,whichworksoutto0.1%activeingredient.I’malsousingpropanediol1,3,anaturalalternativetopropyleneglycol,aswellassodiumlactateat2%intheheatedwaterphase.


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I’maddinghydrolyzedquinoaproteinasmyfilmformerandskinconditioner,andallantoinat0.5%asitisagreatbarrierprotectoraswellasskinsoother.I’mahugefanofpanthenol,inthiscasepowdereddl-Panthenol,VitaminB5,whichhasbeenshowntohelpincreaseskinhydration,behaveasahumectantandanti-inflammatorywhilehelpingskin’swoundhealingproperties.AndI'maddingliquidcalendulaextractat5%asananti-inflammatoryandanti-oxidant.Inmyheatedoilphase,I'maddingolivederivedsqualane,partoftheunsaponifiablepartofoliveoilfoundinourskinsoitsinksinquicklytomoisturize.Unrefinedrosehipseedoilcontainsbetacarotene,theprecursortoVitaminA,thathelpswithhyperpigmentationofourskintopromoteamoreuniformskincolour.I’musingSepiliftDPHP(INCI:Dipalmitoylhydroxyproline),anECOcertandNatruecertifiedingredientat1%to2%intheheatedoilphaseasananti-agingingredientthatmaystimulatecollagensynthesistoplumpskinandlips.Astheemulsifier,I’vechosenSimulgreen18-2(INCI:HydroxystearylAlcoholandHydroxystearylGlucoside),anECOcertandgreenemulsifiertowhichwewanttoadd0.5%xanthangumor1%to3%fattyalcoholtocreatestability.Forfacialmoisturizers,Ialwayswanttohaveamoremattefinish,soI’musingbehenylalcoholasthatstabilizerat2%intheheatedoilphase.Anytimeweusewater,weneedtouseapreservative.MyfavouriteisliquidGermallplusat0.5%inthecooldownphaseasit’sabroadspectrumpreservativethatwillhelpcombatmicrobeslikebacteria,yeast,andmold.TothisI’maddingAntarcticine(INCI:Water,PseudoalteromonasFermentExtract,SalicylicAcid,SodiumHydroxide),anECOcertingredientusedat3%to5%toincreaseskinhydration,increaselevelsofcollagenandelastintoreducethedepthandappearanceoffinelinesandwrinkles,aswellasenhancewoundhealing.Finally,let’saddRegu-scence(INCI:AsparagusOfficinalisStemExtract),anECOcertingredientusedat1%to3%inthecooldownphasetohelpcreateamoreevenskintoneandreducethesignsofaging,likethinnerskin.NATURALROSEHIP&CALENDULAMOISTURIZERRECIPEHEATEDWATERPHASE 56%distilledwater 10%hyaluronicacidgel(0.1%HALMW) 3%propanediol1,3 5%calendulaextract(watersoluble) 2%sodiumlactate(powder) 2%hydrolyzedquinoaprotein 2%panthenol(powder) 0.5%allantoin


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HEATEDOILPHASE 10%squalane 5%rosehipseedoil 4%Simulgreen18-2 2%behenylalcohol 1%SepiliftDPHP COOLDOWNPHASE 5%Antarcticine 2%Regu-scence 0.5%liquidGermallPlus 1. Weightheheatedwaterphaseintoaheatproofcontainer.Measuretheweightofthewaterphaseandthecontainerbeforeputtingitintoyourdoubleboiler.(Thisissowecancompensateforevaporationaftertheheatingandholdingphase.)Placethecontainerintoadoubleboiler.

2. Weightheheatedoilphaseintoaheatproofcontainer,thenplaceintothedoubleboiler.3. Whenbothphaseshavereached70˚C,removefromtheheat.Pourthewaterintotheoilphase,thenmixwithastickblenderforabout3minutes.Thenswitchtoahandmixerwithbeaters.

4. Whenthelotionreaches45˚C,addthecooldownphaseandmixwell.TOMAKEAHYALURONICACIDGELTOUSEINOURPRODUCTSORALONEIfindtheeasiestwaytomakeitistomakeagelasperthisrecipefromLotioncrafter(usedwithpermission).BASICHYALURONICACIDGEL98.5%distilledwater1%LMWhyaluronicacidpowder0.5%liquidGermallPlusIsprinkledinthehyaluronicacidpowder,mixedwellbyhanduntilthepowderwaswet,thenleftitaloneforthreehoursandcamebacktoalovelylookinggel!Itshouldbecompletelyclearanddoesn’tfeelstickyonyourskin.Youcanusethisneatorusethisinproducts.Using10%hyaluronicacidgel=0.1%hyaluronicacidinyourproduct.

OILBASEDFACIALSERUMMygoalforanyoilbasedfacialserumistouseacombinationofnon-greasyandlightoilsthatwillsinkinquicklyleavingbehindamattefinish.Myfirstthoughtisalwaysaboutusingsqualaneasit’smadeforproductslikethis!Ithinkchiaseedoilwouldbealovelyadditionasit’sfilledwithalpha-linoleicandlinoleicfattyacids,whicharefantasticathelpingskin’sbarrierrepairmechanismsaswellasmoisturizing.Itcontainsalotofphytosterols,whichreduceinflammation,andquitealotoftocopherolsornaturalanti-oxidants.Wemetrosehipseedoilinthefacialmoisturizer,and


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I’musingitat10%togetsomeofthoselovelypropertieswithouttoomuchorange.(Whenitcomestooilslikethis,alwaysconsiderthatitcouldbeorangeonyourskin!Doapatchtestbeforeaddingthemathugequantities.)Let’saddsweetalmondoiltothemixasit’sfullofoleicacid,whichsoftensandmoisturizesskin,andsomeplumoilforitsamazingfragranceaswellasitsnon-greasybutrichskinfeel,loadsofanti-oxidants,andtonsofphytosterols.Infacialproducts,Ialwaystrytoaddalittlepomegranateoiltothemixforthepunicicfattyacidthathelpswithwoundrepairandskincellregenerationaswellasitsabilitytohelpwithwindchappedorsunburnedskin.Finally,I’maddingVitaminEasaskinsoftenerandmoisturizeraswellasananti-oxidanttoretardtherancidityofouroils.IntothisserumI’llbeaddingtetrahexyldecylascorbate,anoilsolubleVitaminC,topromoteamoreevenskintone.Youcouldusethisatupto10%inthisserum,butalwaysstartwithlowerlevelstoensureitworkswellwithyourskintype.Finally,I’maddingCollageneer(INCI:HelianthusAnnuus(Sunflower)SeedOilandLupinusAlbusSeedExtract),anoilsolubleingredientusedatupto2%,asananti-inflammatoryandtohelpwiththesignsofagingbystimulatingproductionofcollagen.SWEETALMOND&POMEGRANATEFACIALSERUM30%squalane 20%chiaseedoil 15%sweetalmondoil,unrefined 10%rosehipseedoil 10%plumoil 10%pomegranateoil 2%tetrahexyldecylascorbate(oilsolubleVitaminC)

2%collageneer 1%VitaminE(I’musingT50) Measureeachoftheoilsintoacontainer,mixwell,thenpourintoabottlewithatreatmentpump.Rejoice,foryouaredone!Yep,itreallyisthatsimpletomake:Thehardestpartisdecidingwhattoincludeandwhy.Afewoilsolubleingredientstoconsiderusinginanoilbasedserum…

• D’Orientine(INCI:Caprylic/CapricTriglyceride(and)PhoenixDactylifera(Date)SeedExtract–ECOcertingredient–usedatupto2.5%tohelpwithproductionofcollagenandbehaveasananti-oxidant

• SepiliftDPHP(seepreviousrecipe)–MakesureyouheatuptheoilstomelttheDPHP

• Co-enzymeQ10at0.2%to3%-Ensureyouheatyourproduct.


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OILFREEHYDRO-GELSomeskintypescan’thandleoils,sothisrecipeisanoilfreemoisturizerorserumintowhichyoucouldaddallkindsoflovelywatersolubleingredients.Mygoalforthisproductistohydrateskin,helpreduceinflammation,sootheirritatedskin,andpromoteamoreevenskintone.I’musingwillowbarkextractinthisrecipeasitcontainssalicylicacid,whichcanhelpwithproblemskinandactasachemicalexfoliant.(Youcouldusesalicylicacidinthisrecipedissolvedinalcohol,forinstance,asSepinovEMT10cancreatealcoholicgels.)I’mhavingaloveaffairwiththecombinationofniacinamide(VitaminB3)andn-acetylglucosamine(NAG).Usedataslittleas2%,niacinamidecanincreaseskin’sbarrierlipidsandceramides,whichresultsinareductionofTEWLandanincreaseincollagensynthesis.Itcanreducesebumproductionandporediameter,aswellasreducinghyperpigmentationofageandsunspots.Itcanreducethedamagefromenvironmentalcauses,whichreducestheirritation,inflammation,andskinrednessfromthingslikethesun,cold,orweatheraswellasapplicationofstraightSLS.Evenat5%,there'salackofirritationandrednessonourfaces('causesometimesniacincanmakeourskinflush,butnotat2%or5%).Itcanreducetheappearanceoffinelinesandwrinklesanddecreasesskinblotchinessand"pebbling"orroughnessonfacialskin.Italsobehavesasananti-inflammatoryandenhancesskin'sbarrierfunctions.n-acetylglucosamineisabio-identicalingredientthatcanreducehyperpigmentationintheskin,andhasbeenshowntoworkwellwhencombinedwithniacinamide.Itcanalsoincreasehydrationofourskinbyincreasingtheproductionofhyaluronicacidinourskin.Thiscombinationhasbeenstudiedandfoundtoreducetheappearanceofhyperpigmentationtopromoteamoreuniformskintone.Whew!That’salotofstuff,eh?Wemetpropanediol1,3intheSimulgreen18-2recipeonpage1,andI’musingithereasanon-stickyfeelinghumectant.I’maddingseakelpbiofermenttotherecipeasmyfilmformer.(Gelsdon’ttendtolikehydrolyzedproteins,soI’musingthisingredienttobehavethewaysomethinglikehydrolyzedoatproteinmightwork.)I’maddingpanthenoltothisgeltoimprovehydrationofmyskin(readmoreonpageNATURALCALENDULA&ROSEHIPSEEDOILFACIALMOISTURIZER)andsodiumlactatetoactasahumectant.(Yeah,I’vegonecrazywithhumectantsinthisrecipe,butIneedsomethingtomoisturizeandhydratewithoutoils!)I’maddingallantoinat0.5%asmybarrierprotectantandskinsoother,andI’maddingliquidchamomileextracttohelpreducetransepidermalwaterlossandsootheirritatedskin.Finally,I’musingSepinovEMT10asmygellingagent(INCI:HydroxyethylAcrylate/SodiumAcryloyldimethylTaurateCopolymer).It’sapre-neutralizedpolymeryoucanusetomakegels,creamgels,andalcoholicgels,andcanbeaddedtoanemulsionasarheologymodifier(thickener).Therecommendedusagerateis0.5%to5%.Thelowerusagerateisforincludingitinlotion,whilethehigherlevelsarecreatinggelsorcreamgelswhereEMT10isthemainingredient.It’sananionicornegativelychargedingredient,soit’snotcompatiblewithcationicorpositivelychargedingredients.Thismeansyoucan’tadd


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cationicpolymerslikehoneyquat,polyquat44,polyquat7,andsoon,aswellasemulsifierslikeIncroquatBTMS-50,RitaBTMS-225,andsoon.Somehydrolyzedproteinsmightberightout,too,soifyouwanttoincludethose,doatestbatchtoseehowtheyturnout.SepinovEMT10isasilkyfeelinggellantwhencomparedtocarbomerslikepre-neutralizedsodiumcarbomer,Ultrez20,orSepimaxZEN.YoucanusethosegellantsinthisrecipeinsteadofEMT10attheirsuggestedusagerates.Itcanemulsifyoils–I’vefoundit’sbestat10%orso–anditcanhandleacids,likealpha-hydroxyacids,fruitacidextracts,lacticacid,glycolicacid,salicylicacid,andmore.NIACINAMIDE&WILLOWBARKOILFREEMOISTURIZERWATERPHASE 74.5%distilledwater 5%willowbarkextract(liquid) 4%niacinamide(powder) 3%propanediol1,3 3%seakelpbioferment 2%n-acetylglucosamine 2%panthenol(powder) 2%chamomileextract(liquid) 0.5%sodiumlactate(powder) 0.5%allantoin 0.5%liquidGermallPlus EMTPHASE 3.0%SepinovEMT10 Inacontainerthat’sbigenoughtousethestickblenderorhandmixerin,combineallthewaterphaseingredients.Sprinklethepowderoverthewater,thenmixwellwithastickblenderorhandmixeruntilitgels.You’redone!Rejoice!Ifyouwanttoalterthisrecipe,pleasenotethatniacinamideneedstohaveapHaround6,sowecan’taddanyacids,likesalicylicacidorAHAs,oringredientsthatmightneedtohavealowerpH.Afewcombinationsthatmightbenice…

• Usethisasatargetedtreatmentbyadding3%to10%argirelineintothewaterphase.

• Tryusingthisasatargetedorallovertreatmentbydissolving1%genisteininto3%glycerin(useinplaceofthepropanediol1,3).

• 5%FisionActiveWhiteforalittleofeverythingtohelpwithskinbrightening.• Add10%anyoiloroilsolubleingredienttothisrecipetomakeacreamgel.• Addafruitacidcomplexatupto10%toaddsomeAHAingredients.Ifyoudothis,

pleaseremovetheniacinamideat4%fromtherecipeaspermynoteabove.


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COLDEMULSIFIERMOISTURIZERWITHARISTOFLEXAVCThegoalofthismoisturizeristocreatesomethingthatallkindsofingredientstomoisturizeandhydrateourskinwithsomelovelyactiveingredientstohelpwiththeappearanceofunevenskintoneandfinelinesandwrinkles.We’reusingthiscoldemulsifiertomakesomethingquicklywithouthavingtoheatandhold.I’maddingresveratrolinthisrecipeat0.5%tohelpwithhyperpigmentationandsignsofphotoaging.I’llbemixingitwiththepropanediol1,3asasolventandhumectant.I’maddingAlpaflorGigawhite(INCI:Water,Glycerin,Alcohol,MalvaSylvestris(Mallow)Extract,MenthaPiperita(Peppermint)LeafExtract,PrimulaVerisExtract,AlchemillaVulgarisExtract,VeronicaOfficinalisExtract,MelissaOfficinalisLeafExtract,AchilleaMillefoliumExtract),anECOcertextract,at5%tohelppromoteamoreevenskintoneanduniformcomplexion.Inmyoilsolublephase,I’maddingtetrahexcyldecylascorbateandsqualaneasmoisturizers.Finally,I’musingAristoflexAVC(INCI:AmmoniumAcryloyldimethyltaurate/VPCopolymer)asacoldprocessemulsifier.It’sapolymerthatcancreategelsaswellasemulsifyupto5%oilsorsilicones.Wecan’tincludeingredientswithhighlevelsofelectrolytes,likealoevera,sodiumPCA,sodiumlactate,someextracts,orsomeproteins,orhyaluronicacidat0.1%orhigher.Itdoesn’tworkwellwithsurfactantbasedproducts,likeshampoo,bodywash,orfacialcleansers.Itcanpotentiallymakecleargels,andit’ssuggestedyouuseupto5%glycerintomakethegelsclearer.GIGAWHITE&VITAMINCMOISTURIZERWATERSOLUBLEINGREDIENTS 80.5%distilledwater 2%seakelpbioferment 2%panthenol(powder) 0.5%allantoin ACTIVEINGREDIENTS 3%propanediol1,3 0.5%resveratrol 5%AlpaflorGigawhite OILSOLUBLEINGREDIENTS 2%tetrahexyldecylascorbate 3%squalane EMULSIFIER 1%AristoflexAVC PRESERVATIVE 0.5%liquidGermallPlus 1. Measuretheslightlyheateddistilledorde-ionizedwaterintoacontainer.


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2. Addyourwatersolubleingredients.3. Mixthepropanediol1,3withtheresveratrolintoasmallcontainer,likeashotglass.

Whendissolved,addtothelargercontaineralongwithGigawhite.4. Addtheoilsolubleingredients.5. AddtheAristoflexAVC.6. Addthepreservative.7. Mixwell.Bottle,andrejoice!Combinationstoconsiderfortheactiveingredientsphaseofthisrecipe:

• 0.2%alphaarbutinwhenusingapenetrationenhancerlikepropyleneglycolorupto2%whennotusingone.

• 2%Cellynkagetohelpwithcreatingamoreevenskintoneandsmoothing“pebbled”skin

• 3%to5%Ceramidecomplex(INCI:CeramideNP(and)CeramideAP(and)CeramideEOP(and)Phytosphingosine(and)Cholesterol(and)SodiumLauroylLactylate(and)Carbomer(and)XanthanGum)fordryandagingskintohelpwithmoisturization.

• 3%to10%Lipomoist2036(INCI:Water(Aqua),XanthanGum,Pectin,HydrolyzedVegetableProtein,Serine,Arginine,Proline,DisodiumEDTA)intheactiveingredientphaseasahumectanttoincreaseskin’smoisturization.

• 5%Pollushield(Water,Propanediol,DiisopropylAdipate,Lecithin,AcrylicAcid/AcrylamidomethylPropaneSulfonicAcidCopolymer,DimethylmethoxyChromanol,GlycerylCaprylate,XanthanGum)intheactiveingredientphaseasananti-oxidantthatcandecreaselipidperoxidationandreduceoxidativestress.

ThankyousomuchtoJenWelchatLotioncrafterforsponsoringthispresentation!Alltheingredientsusedtodayandsomuchmorecanbefoundathttp://www.lotioncrafter.com

SusanBarclayNicholsisknownasSwiftCraftyMonkey,bloggeratPointofInterest,columnistforHandmadeMagazine,instructor,ande-bookande-zineauthor.YoucancheckoutmoreofwhatIwriteathttp://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.comFollowmeonFacebookathttps://www.facebook.com/swiftcraftymonkey/

FollowmeonTwitterat@SwiftCraftyMRecipeslikethosefoundinthishandoutanddemonstrationcanbefoundinmye-zines,ActiveIngredients(partone),ActiveIngredients(parttwo),andGels,gels,gels,aswellasmye-bookFacialProductsandmyupcominge-book,FacialProducts(parttwo).