NATURAL CALENDULA & ROSEHIP SEED OIL FACIAL … · NATURAL CALENDULA & ROSEHIP SEED OIL FACIAL...

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FACIAL MOISTURIZERS 101 by Susan Barclay Nichols http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com 1 FACIAL MOISTURIZERS 101 by Susan Barclay Nichols http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com NATURAL CALENDULA & ROSEHIP SEED OIL FACIAL MOISTURIZER ....................................................... 1 NATURAL ROSEHIP & CALENDULA MOISTURIZER RECIPE ......................................................................... 2 BASIC HYALURONIC ACID GEL ................................................................................................................... 3 OIL BASED FACIAL SERUM .................................................................................................................... 3 SWEET ALMOND & POMEGRANATE FACIAL SERUM ................................................................................. 4 OIL FREE HYDRO-GEL ............................................................................................................................ 5 NIACINAMIDE & WILLOW BARK OIL FREE MOISTURIZER .......................................................................... 6 COLD EMULSIFIER MOISTURIZER WITH ARISTOFLEX AVC ...................................................................... 7 GIGAWHITE & VITAMIN C MOISTURIZER .................................................................................................. 7 Today we’ll take a look at four different products we can use as facial moisturizers. The first is a green and natural heated oil-in-water lotion using Simulgreen 18-2. The second is an anhydrous oil serum with loads of lovely light, non-greasy oils. The third is an oil-free hydro-gel created with Sepinov EMT 10, a pre-neutralized polymer. And the fourth uses Aristoflex AVC to make a cold oil-in-water lotion. The goal of all these products is to reduce transepidermal water loss, moisturize by using oils, and hydrate using water soluble ingredients like humectants or proteins. To each, I’ll be adding a few cosmeceuticals or active ingredients that will help with the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reducing sebum production, promoting a more even skin tone, and other issues. And for each, I’ll give you a few suggestions other active ingredients you might like to try. NATURAL CALENDULA & ROSEHIP SEED OIL FACIAL MOISTURIZER For this recipe, I’m using ingredients that are considered natural, like our oils, or certified as green by organizations like ECOcert and Natrue. This is an oil-in-water lotion using an emulsifier to bring together oil soluble ingredients and water soluble ingredients to create a traditional facial moisturizer. My heated lotions have three phases – the heated water phase, the heated oil phase, and the cool down phase. Everything water soluble that handles heat well goes into the heated water phase. Everything oil soluble that handles heat well goes into the heated oil phase. Everything else ends up in the cool down phase. As my humectant, I’m using hyaluronic acid at 0.1% in the heated water phase. I could add it at 0.1% to the water phase, or I could make the gel you see on page 3 and use that at 10%, which works out to 0.1% active ingredient. I’m also using propanediol 1,3, a natural alternative to propylene glycol, as well as sodium lactate at 2% in the heated water phase.

Transcript of NATURAL CALENDULA & ROSEHIP SEED OIL FACIAL … · NATURAL CALENDULA & ROSEHIP SEED OIL FACIAL...

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FACIALMOISTURIZERS101bySusanBarclayNicholshttp://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com

NATURALCALENDULA&ROSEHIPSEEDOILFACIALMOISTURIZER.......................................................1NATURALROSEHIP&CALENDULAMOISTURIZERRECIPE.........................................................................2BASICHYALURONICACIDGEL...................................................................................................................3

OILBASEDFACIALSERUM....................................................................................................................3SWEETALMOND&POMEGRANATEFACIALSERUM.................................................................................4

OILFREEHYDRO-GEL............................................................................................................................5NIACINAMIDE&WILLOWBARKOILFREEMOISTURIZER..........................................................................6

COLDEMULSIFIERMOISTURIZERWITHARISTOFLEXAVC......................................................................7GIGAWHITE&VITAMINCMOISTURIZER..................................................................................................7

Todaywe’lltakealookatfourdifferentproductswecanuseasfacialmoisturizers.Thefirstisagreenandnaturalheatedoil-in-waterlotionusingSimulgreen18-2.Thesecondisananhydrousoilserumwithloadsoflovelylight,non-greasyoils.Thethirdisanoil-freehydro-gelcreatedwithSepinovEMT10,apre-neutralizedpolymer.AndthefourthusesAristoflexAVCtomakeacoldoil-in-waterlotion.Thegoalofalltheseproductsistoreducetransepidermalwaterloss,moisturizebyusingoils,andhydrateusingwatersolubleingredientslikehumectantsorproteins.Toeach,I’llbeaddingafewcosmeceuticalsoractiveingredientsthatwillhelpwiththeappearanceoffinelinesandwrinkles,reducingsebumproduction,promotingamoreevenskintone,andotherissues.Andforeach,I’llgiveyouafewsuggestionsotheractiveingredientsyoumightliketotry.

NATURALCALENDULA&ROSEHIPSEEDOILFACIALMOISTURIZERForthisrecipe,I’musingingredientsthatareconsiderednatural,likeouroils,orcertifiedasgreenbyorganizationslikeECOcertandNatrue.Thisisanoil-in-waterlotionusinganemulsifiertobringtogetheroilsolubleingredientsandwatersolubleingredientstocreateatraditionalfacialmoisturizer.Myheatedlotionshavethreephases–theheatedwaterphase,theheatedoilphase,andthecooldownphase.Everythingwatersolublethathandlesheatwellgoesintotheheatedwaterphase.Everythingoilsolublethathandlesheatwellgoesintotheheatedoilphase.Everythingelseendsupinthecooldownphase.Asmyhumectant,I’musinghyaluronicacidat0.1%intheheatedwaterphase.Icouldadditat0.1%tothewaterphase,orIcouldmakethegelyouseeonpage3andusethatat10%,whichworksoutto0.1%activeingredient.I’malsousingpropanediol1,3,anaturalalternativetopropyleneglycol,aswellassodiumlactateat2%intheheatedwaterphase.

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I’maddinghydrolyzedquinoaproteinasmyfilmformerandskinconditioner,andallantoinat0.5%asitisagreatbarrierprotectoraswellasskinsoother.I’mahugefanofpanthenol,inthiscasepowdereddl-Panthenol,VitaminB5,whichhasbeenshowntohelpincreaseskinhydration,behaveasahumectantandanti-inflammatorywhilehelpingskin’swoundhealingproperties.AndI'maddingliquidcalendulaextractat5%asananti-inflammatoryandanti-oxidant.Inmyheatedoilphase,I'maddingolivederivedsqualane,partoftheunsaponifiablepartofoliveoilfoundinourskinsoitsinksinquicklytomoisturize.Unrefinedrosehipseedoilcontainsbetacarotene,theprecursortoVitaminA,thathelpswithhyperpigmentationofourskintopromoteamoreuniformskincolour.I’musingSepiliftDPHP(INCI:Dipalmitoylhydroxyproline),anECOcertandNatruecertifiedingredientat1%to2%intheheatedoilphaseasananti-agingingredientthatmaystimulatecollagensynthesistoplumpskinandlips.Astheemulsifier,I’vechosenSimulgreen18-2(INCI:HydroxystearylAlcoholandHydroxystearylGlucoside),anECOcertandgreenemulsifiertowhichwewanttoadd0.5%xanthangumor1%to3%fattyalcoholtocreatestability.Forfacialmoisturizers,Ialwayswanttohaveamoremattefinish,soI’musingbehenylalcoholasthatstabilizerat2%intheheatedoilphase.Anytimeweusewater,weneedtouseapreservative.MyfavouriteisliquidGermallplusat0.5%inthecooldownphaseasit’sabroadspectrumpreservativethatwillhelpcombatmicrobeslikebacteria,yeast,andmold.TothisI’maddingAntarcticine(INCI:Water,PseudoalteromonasFermentExtract,SalicylicAcid,SodiumHydroxide),anECOcertingredientusedat3%to5%toincreaseskinhydration,increaselevelsofcollagenandelastintoreducethedepthandappearanceoffinelinesandwrinkles,aswellasenhancewoundhealing.Finally,let’saddRegu-scence(INCI:AsparagusOfficinalisStemExtract),anECOcertingredientusedat1%to3%inthecooldownphasetohelpcreateamoreevenskintoneandreducethesignsofaging,likethinnerskin.NATURALROSEHIP&CALENDULAMOISTURIZERRECIPEHEATEDWATERPHASE 56%distilledwater 10%hyaluronicacidgel(0.1%HALMW) 3%propanediol1,3 5%calendulaextract(watersoluble) 2%sodiumlactate(powder) 2%hydrolyzedquinoaprotein 2%panthenol(powder) 0.5%allantoin

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HEATEDOILPHASE 10%squalane 5%rosehipseedoil 4%Simulgreen18-2 2%behenylalcohol 1%SepiliftDPHP COOLDOWNPHASE 5%Antarcticine 2%Regu-scence 0.5%liquidGermallPlus 1. Weightheheatedwaterphaseintoaheatproofcontainer.Measuretheweightofthewaterphaseandthecontainerbeforeputtingitintoyourdoubleboiler.(Thisissowecancompensateforevaporationaftertheheatingandholdingphase.)Placethecontainerintoadoubleboiler.

2. Weightheheatedoilphaseintoaheatproofcontainer,thenplaceintothedoubleboiler.3. Whenbothphaseshavereached70˚C,removefromtheheat.Pourthewaterintotheoilphase,thenmixwithastickblenderforabout3minutes.Thenswitchtoahandmixerwithbeaters.

4. Whenthelotionreaches45˚C,addthecooldownphaseandmixwell.TOMAKEAHYALURONICACIDGELTOUSEINOURPRODUCTSORALONEIfindtheeasiestwaytomakeitistomakeagelasperthisrecipefromLotioncrafter(usedwithpermission).BASICHYALURONICACIDGEL98.5%distilledwater1%LMWhyaluronicacidpowder0.5%liquidGermallPlusIsprinkledinthehyaluronicacidpowder,mixedwellbyhanduntilthepowderwaswet,thenleftitaloneforthreehoursandcamebacktoalovelylookinggel!Itshouldbecompletelyclearanddoesn’tfeelstickyonyourskin.Youcanusethisneatorusethisinproducts.Using10%hyaluronicacidgel=0.1%hyaluronicacidinyourproduct.

OILBASEDFACIALSERUMMygoalforanyoilbasedfacialserumistouseacombinationofnon-greasyandlightoilsthatwillsinkinquicklyleavingbehindamattefinish.Myfirstthoughtisalwaysaboutusingsqualaneasit’smadeforproductslikethis!Ithinkchiaseedoilwouldbealovelyadditionasit’sfilledwithalpha-linoleicandlinoleicfattyacids,whicharefantasticathelpingskin’sbarrierrepairmechanismsaswellasmoisturizing.Itcontainsalotofphytosterols,whichreduceinflammation,andquitealotoftocopherolsornaturalanti-oxidants.Wemetrosehipseedoilinthefacialmoisturizer,and

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I’musingitat10%togetsomeofthoselovelypropertieswithouttoomuchorange.(Whenitcomestooilslikethis,alwaysconsiderthatitcouldbeorangeonyourskin!Doapatchtestbeforeaddingthemathugequantities.)Let’saddsweetalmondoiltothemixasit’sfullofoleicacid,whichsoftensandmoisturizesskin,andsomeplumoilforitsamazingfragranceaswellasitsnon-greasybutrichskinfeel,loadsofanti-oxidants,andtonsofphytosterols.Infacialproducts,Ialwaystrytoaddalittlepomegranateoiltothemixforthepunicicfattyacidthathelpswithwoundrepairandskincellregenerationaswellasitsabilitytohelpwithwindchappedorsunburnedskin.Finally,I’maddingVitaminEasaskinsoftenerandmoisturizeraswellasananti-oxidanttoretardtherancidityofouroils.IntothisserumI’llbeaddingtetrahexyldecylascorbate,anoilsolubleVitaminC,topromoteamoreevenskintone.Youcouldusethisatupto10%inthisserum,butalwaysstartwithlowerlevelstoensureitworkswellwithyourskintype.Finally,I’maddingCollageneer(INCI:HelianthusAnnuus(Sunflower)SeedOilandLupinusAlbusSeedExtract),anoilsolubleingredientusedatupto2%,asananti-inflammatoryandtohelpwiththesignsofagingbystimulatingproductionofcollagen.SWEETALMOND&POMEGRANATEFACIALSERUM30%squalane 20%chiaseedoil 15%sweetalmondoil,unrefined 10%rosehipseedoil 10%plumoil 10%pomegranateoil 2%tetrahexyldecylascorbate(oilsolubleVitaminC)

2%collageneer 1%VitaminE(I’musingT50) Measureeachoftheoilsintoacontainer,mixwell,thenpourintoabottlewithatreatmentpump.Rejoice,foryouaredone!Yep,itreallyisthatsimpletomake:Thehardestpartisdecidingwhattoincludeandwhy.Afewoilsolubleingredientstoconsiderusinginanoilbasedserum…

• D’Orientine(INCI:Caprylic/CapricTriglyceride(and)PhoenixDactylifera(Date)SeedExtract–ECOcertingredient–usedatupto2.5%tohelpwithproductionofcollagenandbehaveasananti-oxidant

• SepiliftDPHP(seepreviousrecipe)–MakesureyouheatuptheoilstomelttheDPHP

• Co-enzymeQ10at0.2%to3%-Ensureyouheatyourproduct.

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OILFREEHYDRO-GELSomeskintypescan’thandleoils,sothisrecipeisanoilfreemoisturizerorserumintowhichyoucouldaddallkindsoflovelywatersolubleingredients.Mygoalforthisproductistohydrateskin,helpreduceinflammation,sootheirritatedskin,andpromoteamoreevenskintone.I’musingwillowbarkextractinthisrecipeasitcontainssalicylicacid,whichcanhelpwithproblemskinandactasachemicalexfoliant.(Youcouldusesalicylicacidinthisrecipedissolvedinalcohol,forinstance,asSepinovEMT10cancreatealcoholicgels.)I’mhavingaloveaffairwiththecombinationofniacinamide(VitaminB3)andn-acetylglucosamine(NAG).Usedataslittleas2%,niacinamidecanincreaseskin’sbarrierlipidsandceramides,whichresultsinareductionofTEWLandanincreaseincollagensynthesis.Itcanreducesebumproductionandporediameter,aswellasreducinghyperpigmentationofageandsunspots.Itcanreducethedamagefromenvironmentalcauses,whichreducestheirritation,inflammation,andskinrednessfromthingslikethesun,cold,orweatheraswellasapplicationofstraightSLS.Evenat5%,there'salackofirritationandrednessonourfaces('causesometimesniacincanmakeourskinflush,butnotat2%or5%).Itcanreducetheappearanceoffinelinesandwrinklesanddecreasesskinblotchinessand"pebbling"orroughnessonfacialskin.Italsobehavesasananti-inflammatoryandenhancesskin'sbarrierfunctions.n-acetylglucosamineisabio-identicalingredientthatcanreducehyperpigmentationintheskin,andhasbeenshowntoworkwellwhencombinedwithniacinamide.Itcanalsoincreasehydrationofourskinbyincreasingtheproductionofhyaluronicacidinourskin.Thiscombinationhasbeenstudiedandfoundtoreducetheappearanceofhyperpigmentationtopromoteamoreuniformskintone.Whew!That’salotofstuff,eh?Wemetpropanediol1,3intheSimulgreen18-2recipeonpage1,andI’musingithereasanon-stickyfeelinghumectant.I’maddingseakelpbiofermenttotherecipeasmyfilmformer.(Gelsdon’ttendtolikehydrolyzedproteins,soI’musingthisingredienttobehavethewaysomethinglikehydrolyzedoatproteinmightwork.)I’maddingpanthenoltothisgeltoimprovehydrationofmyskin(readmoreonpageNATURALCALENDULA&ROSEHIPSEEDOILFACIALMOISTURIZER)andsodiumlactatetoactasahumectant.(Yeah,I’vegonecrazywithhumectantsinthisrecipe,butIneedsomethingtomoisturizeandhydratewithoutoils!)I’maddingallantoinat0.5%asmybarrierprotectantandskinsoother,andI’maddingliquidchamomileextracttohelpreducetransepidermalwaterlossandsootheirritatedskin.Finally,I’musingSepinovEMT10asmygellingagent(INCI:HydroxyethylAcrylate/SodiumAcryloyldimethylTaurateCopolymer).It’sapre-neutralizedpolymeryoucanusetomakegels,creamgels,andalcoholicgels,andcanbeaddedtoanemulsionasarheologymodifier(thickener).Therecommendedusagerateis0.5%to5%.Thelowerusagerateisforincludingitinlotion,whilethehigherlevelsarecreatinggelsorcreamgelswhereEMT10isthemainingredient.It’sananionicornegativelychargedingredient,soit’snotcompatiblewithcationicorpositivelychargedingredients.Thismeansyoucan’tadd

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cationicpolymerslikehoneyquat,polyquat44,polyquat7,andsoon,aswellasemulsifierslikeIncroquatBTMS-50,RitaBTMS-225,andsoon.Somehydrolyzedproteinsmightberightout,too,soifyouwanttoincludethose,doatestbatchtoseehowtheyturnout.SepinovEMT10isasilkyfeelinggellantwhencomparedtocarbomerslikepre-neutralizedsodiumcarbomer,Ultrez20,orSepimaxZEN.YoucanusethosegellantsinthisrecipeinsteadofEMT10attheirsuggestedusagerates.Itcanemulsifyoils–I’vefoundit’sbestat10%orso–anditcanhandleacids,likealpha-hydroxyacids,fruitacidextracts,lacticacid,glycolicacid,salicylicacid,andmore.NIACINAMIDE&WILLOWBARKOILFREEMOISTURIZERWATERPHASE 74.5%distilledwater 5%willowbarkextract(liquid) 4%niacinamide(powder) 3%propanediol1,3 3%seakelpbioferment 2%n-acetylglucosamine 2%panthenol(powder) 2%chamomileextract(liquid) 0.5%sodiumlactate(powder) 0.5%allantoin 0.5%liquidGermallPlus EMTPHASE 3.0%SepinovEMT10 Inacontainerthat’sbigenoughtousethestickblenderorhandmixerin,combineallthewaterphaseingredients.Sprinklethepowderoverthewater,thenmixwellwithastickblenderorhandmixeruntilitgels.You’redone!Rejoice!Ifyouwanttoalterthisrecipe,pleasenotethatniacinamideneedstohaveapHaround6,sowecan’taddanyacids,likesalicylicacidorAHAs,oringredientsthatmightneedtohavealowerpH.Afewcombinationsthatmightbenice…

• Usethisasatargetedtreatmentbyadding3%to10%argirelineintothewaterphase.

• Tryusingthisasatargetedorallovertreatmentbydissolving1%genisteininto3%glycerin(useinplaceofthepropanediol1,3).

• 5%FisionActiveWhiteforalittleofeverythingtohelpwithskinbrightening.• Add10%anyoiloroilsolubleingredienttothisrecipetomakeacreamgel.• Addafruitacidcomplexatupto10%toaddsomeAHAingredients.Ifyoudothis,

pleaseremovetheniacinamideat4%fromtherecipeaspermynoteabove.

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COLDEMULSIFIERMOISTURIZERWITHARISTOFLEXAVCThegoalofthismoisturizeristocreatesomethingthatallkindsofingredientstomoisturizeandhydrateourskinwithsomelovelyactiveingredientstohelpwiththeappearanceofunevenskintoneandfinelinesandwrinkles.We’reusingthiscoldemulsifiertomakesomethingquicklywithouthavingtoheatandhold.I’maddingresveratrolinthisrecipeat0.5%tohelpwithhyperpigmentationandsignsofphotoaging.I’llbemixingitwiththepropanediol1,3asasolventandhumectant.I’maddingAlpaflorGigawhite(INCI:Water,Glycerin,Alcohol,MalvaSylvestris(Mallow)Extract,MenthaPiperita(Peppermint)LeafExtract,PrimulaVerisExtract,AlchemillaVulgarisExtract,VeronicaOfficinalisExtract,MelissaOfficinalisLeafExtract,AchilleaMillefoliumExtract),anECOcertextract,at5%tohelppromoteamoreevenskintoneanduniformcomplexion.Inmyoilsolublephase,I’maddingtetrahexcyldecylascorbateandsqualaneasmoisturizers.Finally,I’musingAristoflexAVC(INCI:AmmoniumAcryloyldimethyltaurate/VPCopolymer)asacoldprocessemulsifier.It’sapolymerthatcancreategelsaswellasemulsifyupto5%oilsorsilicones.Wecan’tincludeingredientswithhighlevelsofelectrolytes,likealoevera,sodiumPCA,sodiumlactate,someextracts,orsomeproteins,orhyaluronicacidat0.1%orhigher.Itdoesn’tworkwellwithsurfactantbasedproducts,likeshampoo,bodywash,orfacialcleansers.Itcanpotentiallymakecleargels,andit’ssuggestedyouuseupto5%glycerintomakethegelsclearer.GIGAWHITE&VITAMINCMOISTURIZERWATERSOLUBLEINGREDIENTS 80.5%distilledwater 2%seakelpbioferment 2%panthenol(powder) 0.5%allantoin ACTIVEINGREDIENTS 3%propanediol1,3 0.5%resveratrol 5%AlpaflorGigawhite OILSOLUBLEINGREDIENTS 2%tetrahexyldecylascorbate 3%squalane EMULSIFIER 1%AristoflexAVC PRESERVATIVE 0.5%liquidGermallPlus 1. Measuretheslightlyheateddistilledorde-ionizedwaterintoacontainer.

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2. Addyourwatersolubleingredients.3. Mixthepropanediol1,3withtheresveratrolintoasmallcontainer,likeashotglass.

Whendissolved,addtothelargercontaineralongwithGigawhite.4. Addtheoilsolubleingredients.5. AddtheAristoflexAVC.6. Addthepreservative.7. Mixwell.Bottle,andrejoice!Combinationstoconsiderfortheactiveingredientsphaseofthisrecipe:

• 0.2%alphaarbutinwhenusingapenetrationenhancerlikepropyleneglycolorupto2%whennotusingone.

• 2%Cellynkagetohelpwithcreatingamoreevenskintoneandsmoothing“pebbled”skin

• 3%to5%Ceramidecomplex(INCI:CeramideNP(and)CeramideAP(and)CeramideEOP(and)Phytosphingosine(and)Cholesterol(and)SodiumLauroylLactylate(and)Carbomer(and)XanthanGum)fordryandagingskintohelpwithmoisturization.

• 3%to10%Lipomoist2036(INCI:Water(Aqua),XanthanGum,Pectin,HydrolyzedVegetableProtein,Serine,Arginine,Proline,DisodiumEDTA)intheactiveingredientphaseasahumectanttoincreaseskin’smoisturization.

• 5%Pollushield(Water,Propanediol,DiisopropylAdipate,Lecithin,AcrylicAcid/AcrylamidomethylPropaneSulfonicAcidCopolymer,DimethylmethoxyChromanol,GlycerylCaprylate,XanthanGum)intheactiveingredientphaseasananti-oxidantthatcandecreaselipidperoxidationandreduceoxidativestress.

ThankyousomuchtoJenWelchatLotioncrafterforsponsoringthispresentation!Alltheingredientsusedtodayandsomuchmorecanbefoundathttp://www.lotioncrafter.com

SusanBarclayNicholsisknownasSwiftCraftyMonkey,bloggeratPointofInterest,columnistforHandmadeMagazine,instructor,ande-bookande-zineauthor.YoucancheckoutmoreofwhatIwriteathttp://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.comFollowmeonFacebookathttps://www.facebook.com/swiftcraftymonkey/

FollowmeonTwitterat@SwiftCraftyMRecipeslikethosefoundinthishandoutanddemonstrationcanbefoundinmye-zines,ActiveIngredients(partone),ActiveIngredients(parttwo),andGels,gels,gels,aswellasmye-bookFacialProductsandmyupcominge-book,FacialProducts(parttwo).