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Marker

making

Presented by

Md Nasimul Hossain, 2008100400041 Md. Mahbub Ur Rahman 2008100400042 Khalid Rahman 2008100400044 Md. Mahmud Ur Rahman 2008100400045 Afnan Arefin 2008100400047 Sujon Debnath 2008100400057 Syed Moheudden Hasan 2008100400069 8th Batch

2nd Section

1st Group Department of Textile Engineering

Southeast University

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Marker

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Acknowledgement Logically, a study is the crystallization of the thoughts of many committed to

that by one person. In view of this, we gratefully acknowledge to different

kind of people for their valuable suggestions and guidance to conduct this

assignment effectively.

First of all we are grateful to All Mighty Allah for finishing the report on time.

We would like to thank Md. Emdad Sarker; Lecturer, South East University,

for his guidance.

Especial thanks to Mr. Moynul Haque, managing Director of Muaz uddin

textiles mills Ltd, for cordial hospitality and kind permission to visit the

every section of the mills.

We would like to thank Mr. Ohiduzjaman, cutting in charge of Muaz uddin

textiles mills Ltd, for his discussion on different sector of the garments

We discuss with different employer and workers which give us practical

knowledge about the environment of the mills. So we are also grateful to

them.

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List of Content page Marker 4

Point should be considered before marker making 4

Marker width 4

Marker length 4

Grain line 4

Position of pattern pieces 4

Cutting table 4

Production plan 4

Methods of marker making 4

Manual method 4

Marker planning with full size pattern 4

Marker with minimized pattern 5

Computerized marker making method 5

Automatic marker making 5

Interactive marker making 6

Methods of drawing and duplicating marker making 6

Drawing the marker by hand 6

Carbon duplicating method 6

Sprit duplicating method 6

Photograph or light sensitive paper method 6

Perforated marker 7

Computerized marker 7

Photographic system 7

Marking directly on fabric 7

Drawing by chalk or pencil 7

Print spray technology 7

Marker efficiency 7

Marker planner 8

Size of garments 8

Marker length 8

Marker width 8

Pattern engineering 8

Fabric characteristics 8

Marker making method 8

Constrains of marker 8

Grain line 9

Symmetry or asymmetry of fabric 9

The design and characteristics of finished garment 9

Cutting quality 9

Fabric wastage outside the marker 9

Ends of ply lose 9

Losses of fabric Ends 9

Selvedge losses 10

Purchase loss 10

Discussion 10

Conclusion 11

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Marker

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Marker: Marker is the thin paper in which all necessary pattern pieces are drawn, in

such a way to minimize the fabric wastage. It gives the special instruction

for cutting. It can be done both manually and computerized method.

In computerized method all information are in the pre fashionable

data file and an operator helps the computer to make the best choice.

In manual method marker making is done by efficient marker maker.

Manual method is less efficient then computerized method.

Point should be considered before marker making: I. Marker width:

Width of marker must be smaller then fabric width by 0.5” from both sides.

II. Marker length: Marker length is also to be smaller then fabric length by 1” from both sides.

III. Grain line: Grain line should be parallel the warp direction or wales direction of fabric

when all patterns are laid down on the marker over the fabric layer.

IV. Position of pattern pieces: All the pattern pieces of a garment should be along the same direction when

laid down on an asymmetric fabric.

V. Cutting table: Length of cutting table must be considered before making then marker plan.

VI. Production plan: Garments plan should also be considered with marker plan.

Methods of marker making: Marker making can be done by two processes one is manual method and

another is computerized method.

Manual method: In this process marker is making both by manually. In this process marker

making can be done with full size pattern and/or also with miniaturized

pattern. The descriptions are following:

Marker planning with full size pattern: In this method all pattern are in full size according to stander measurement.

Comparatively hard pattern pieces placed on marker paper or directly on

fabric. After that all patterns are marked by turning different direction to

obtain more efficient marker. In this process, it is easiable to make marker,

if the marker if the marker length is short, because within short length

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Marker

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marker maker can see all pattern pieces and it can control. This process is

not efficient for long marker.

In this process marker table may be fixed or tilting. Vacuum system is

arranged under the table for suction.

Marker with minimized pattern: It is also a manual process. Pantograph is used to make miniaturized

pattern in this process. The descriptions are as below

By using pantograph full size patterns minimized 1/5

part. Generally these miniaturized patterns are made up

by hard paper or plastic sheet.

Marker is planned with small pattern pieces. The length

and width of table on which marker is made according to

miniature patterns is 2m to 50cm accordingly and scaled

is made according to 1/5 ratio. Within small place, the

small pattern placed and transfer comparatively easiable.

After marker making, snaps are by camera.

A plan meter is used to measure the marker efficiency.

Marker photograph and miniature patterns are stored in a

clavinet.

Then full size marker is made on the marker paper or

fabric according to more efficient miniature marker. Many

times miniaturized pattern will fully cause of faulty

pantograph. Sometimes full size pattern method is more

efficient then miniature pattern method.

In this process:

More time consuming

High labor cost

Expensive method

Computerized marker making method: In this process, at first production pattern is entered in the memory of

computer by using digitizing and scanning and full size production pattern

also stored in memory of computer but all pattern pieces are displayed in

miniature from at the top of screen. Generally in this process computer

screen, keyboard and light pencil is used. Then marker maker give some

instruction to the computer that marker width, check matching etc.

Computer remove all contains itself during marker making.

It also two type:

Automatic marker making: In this process computer makes marker itself. Marker making is done

automatically by previously planned data more efficient marker is obtained

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by this method. It requires more time because of computer permutation and

combination method is used to make marker.

Interactive marker making: It is a common process, where the planer makes the marker with the help of

computer. All the pattern pieces are displayed in the miniature from at the

top of the screen. A horizontal line in the middle of screen is seen which is

called width of marker. A vertical line placed left side of horizontal line is

seen, which indicate the start of marker. Some data are placed below of

those lines such as identification of marker maker length, marker width,

marker efficiency etc. In this process a data pen and a table are used to

transfer the pattern pieces. Tablet represents the pointer unit. When marker

making is finished maker efficiency, marker width, marker length, pattern

count etc are obtained immediately in the computer screen. The finished

marker is stored in the computer memory and printer is used to print out it.

Computerized method is more efficient then manual method. In a word,

these are more advantages are obtained in computerized method. At least

2% fabric saves from wastage in computerized method.

Methods of drawing and duplicating marker making: Marker is attached fabric lay by pin or gum. Marker works as a guide during

fabric cutting. Marker paper is cut during fabric cutting for that marker

copy is needed. These are many methods of duplicating methods of

duplicating marker making:

Drawing the marker by hand: It is the most common method. Pattern pieces are placed on marker paper

according to make the marker. This marker can be copied. The methods of

copying are as below-

Carbon duplicating method: In this method 6-8 markers can be copied at a time. Double sided carbon

papers are used and placed between two markers. As marking is done on

upper page by pencil, the lower page will be less proficient. It requires more

time. But 3-4 markers can be copied very easy.

Sprit duplicating method: It is like office duplicating method. The only different is that in size of the

machine. 40-45 copies can be made from one master paper. But there may

be a problem if master copy is fully. The marker width is more then machine

width also more.

Photograph or light sensitive paper method: A light sensitive paper is used. Ultraviolet light is passed through the light

sensitive paper to obtain marker copy. The papers are made visible by

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Marker

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Ammonia vapor. It is a quick method. Many makers can be copied from a

master copy by this method.

Perforated marker: In this method all pattern pieces are placed on pattern card and pattern

picture is drawn by pencil. Small perforated marker is placed on fabric lay.

The marker is perforated by sewing/c. Then powder of French chalk is

passed over marker oil or resin used with the chalk. It requires more time.

This helps to make the marker just according to pattern pieces.

Computerized marker: When marker planning is finished, it is stored in memory of computer and

at any time computer can display the marker. Full size marker is obtained if

plotter is big. And mini size marker is obtaining if plotter is small. The

printed version can be achieved by plotter machine attached to the

computer.

Photographic system: In this method, pattern pieces are placed other light sensitive paper. Ultra

violet light is passed through the paper. And papers are made visible by

Ammonia vapor. Perforated code numbers are written on the marker

according to the number of different patterns. Though the primary cost is

high, the manufacturing cost and time, labor cost is less.

Marking directly on fabric: Drawing by chalk or pencil:

In this method marker is drawn directly on fabric. According to marker plan

pattern pieces are directly placed on the fabric then chalk is made by pipe

clay or wax or fluorescent. In requires more time and highly skilled planer. It

is an ancient method. It is less use in garments industry but more use in

tailoring.

Print spray technology: This process is used for check fabric. All pattern pieces placed on fabric lay

then print is being sprayed by spray m/c. the space which is covered by

pattern is not colored. This process is costly. This process is applied less

absorbency fabric.

Marker efficiency: The marker planner measures his success by the efficiency of the marker

plan. If the marker efficiency is high the fabric wastage will be less. Fabric

price is half of total price of garments. So 1% marker efficiency means that

profit include with total profit. For that increasing marker efficiency is more

important. Marker efficiency cab be calculate by following formula-

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Marker efficiency= Area of all pattern in the marker plan

Total area in the marker plan∗ 100

Factor related to marker efficiency are as below:

Marker planner: Marker efficiency depends upon the attentiveness, honesty, experience,

sincerity, trial and technological knowledge of marker planer. The more

maker being made for a marker the more probability to get marker

efficiency.

Size of garments: The more the numbers of pattern size are included, the more possibility to

get more efficient for comparatively small size garments for having the small

components. It there is less number of small components, then marker will

be less efficient.

Marker length:

The length of marker is related with various factors. If Higher the marker

length, higher the efficiency. It can also help to increase the production of

cutting room. But a planer is not able to plan the marker easily if the

marker is too long.

Marker width:

It the marker width is more it is easier to plan, that is why marker

increases.

Pattern engineering: Marker efficiency can be increased by changing the pattern according to the

rule. Such as a big component can be dividing into two parts. This will help

to save the fabric wastages.

Fabric characteristics: Symmetric fabrics are those which are similar to all direction. And

asymmetric fabrics are those which are not similar to all directions. Marker

efficiency is good in symmetrical fabric on the other hand; marker efficient

will be less for asymmetrical fabric.

Marker making method: There are two methods to make a marker one is manual and another is

computerized method. Computerized method is more efficient when it is

done interactively varies method to method to method. Sometimes skilled

operator can make more efficient marker then computer.

Constrains of marker: At first a marker maker placed big patterns on marker paper. Then small

pattern are placed in the gap of the big patterns to minimize the fabric

wastages. After that pattern pieces are moved in various directions to

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increase the maker efficiency. These jobs are not so easy. There are many

problems behind this. They are as follows-

Grain line: Pattern pieces carry a grain line called grain line. It instructs the warp

direction. The grain line must be parallel to the warp or wales. On the basic

of design sometimes pattern pieces are placed in 45˚ angle. It marker

planner lays down a pattern outside the stated rules for grain lines. Then

the finished garment will not hang and drape correctly when worn. It

restricts the freedom of marker planner.

Symmetry or asymmetry of fabric: The fabrics which retain the same appearance after turning it by 180˚ are

symmetric fabric. But asymmetric fabrics are not same appearance.

Example of asymmetric fabric is pile fabric, which is brushed in one

direction and shows different optical behavior. The marker should be

planned in such a way that it is in accordance with symmetry of the fabric.

All pattern pieces of a garment should be along the same direction when laid

on an asymmetric fabric

The design and characteristics of finished garment: It a vertical stripe does not show complete mirror images to each other. In

this case the pattern pieces should be placed on checks or stripes in such a

way that the design matches when sewing up.

Cutting quality: Maximum time knife blade is used to separate the pattern pieces. So marker

should be made in proper care, so that it can be cut easily by knife blade.

Fabric wastage outside the marker: Generally highest uses of marker depend on marker efficiency. But some

fabric wastages are happened which are the out of control of marker plan.

Descriptions are as below, which are the causes of fabric losses

Ends of ply lose: Some allowances are needed in the end of each pieces of fabric during fabric

cutting because of limitation of machines which are used to fabric

extensibility and fabric spreading. Usually 2” in each end and on each ply 4”

wastage are happened. This wastage varies with the durability of the fabric.

This wastage can be reduced by observing and controlling carefully of how

much allowance need for various fabric.

Moreover, if marker length is long, this type of wastages wills less, other

hand if marker length is short this type of wastages will high.

Losses of fabric Ends: Usually fabric comes in roll from in a garments industry. There are the

limitations of fabric length in case roll. Fabric lay is made on the basic of

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marker length. Most of the time, it is seen that fabric length is high or less

then multiple of lay length. For that, splicing is done in the end of fabric of

each roll or end remnant of fabric roll is separated by cutting during fabric

spreading. This splicing or remaining fabric at the end of the roll increases

the wastages which is the out of control of marker plan. This type of

wastages can not protect but can be minimize. This can be minimizing by

taking bigger rolls. Splicing place must be indicated and the remaining

portion should be reduced to minimize the fabric loss etc.

Selvedge losses: Each fabric has two selvedges along width. Most of the time we do not

placed pattern components over the selvedges. Thus approximately 3%

fabrics are wasted along width. If the fabric is very expensive and extensive,

we can save some fabric by wasting 2% along width. The amount of fabric

wide to be used depends on quality of selvedge and alignment of selvedge. If

fabric width is high this type of wastages will be less.

Purchase loss: Fabric is bought by length. But fabric length is identified by fabric

manufacture and supplier on fabric roll. Sometime less fabric is wound roll.

So before purchasing the length should be measured and fabric should be

sourced only from the reputed manufacturer.

Discussion Without practical knowledge education cannot be effective. So the

importance of the practical visit as well as mill visit is beyond discussion.

First of all we want to say with great regret that through garment industry is

a blooming sector for Bangladesh which can boost up our economy but

there lies deficiency in using technology.

It is mentioned that our visited textile mills is a composite factory having

garments, knitting and dyeing section but there are only three textile

engineer and the others are non technical person. That’s why they use

manual process for marker making, fabric spreading and fabric cutting will

be done. They use a technology to reduce the wastage of fabric that is to

maintain the fabric width according to the cutting table width. It is

mentioned the computerized marker making is not effective for the knit

project as well as the weaving project.

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Conclusion: Marker is a thin paper but it is not just a thin paper. Marker paper contains

all necessary pattern pieces but it is not just contains all necessary pattern

pieces. Its value is not need to say how much. It is so much important in a

garments industry or makes garments. It save large amount of money. This

money is the main thing of a garment industry. So marker is more

important.

From this assignment we have known about

Marker

Marker efficiency

How marker efficiency increases

Constrains of marker

Methods of marker

Duplicating methods of marker

Some fabric wastages are happened which is

the out side of marker plan.

These above things are more valuable things and this thing is helpful

for us if we will work in a garments industry.