c. 1850 - 1869
THE CRINOLINE PERIOD
C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N
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2 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
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Important Events Influenced Styles of the Crinoline Period
1850 1851 1852 1857 1858 1859 1860 1861 1862 1863 1865 1867 1869
1850 – 1870
Queen Victoria continues to occupy the British Throne
1851
Isaac M. Singer invents the first practical sewing machine.
1852Louis Napoleon becomes Napoleon the Third and the Second French
Republic becomes the Second Empire
1857
Hoopskirt or cage crinoline is introduced
1858
Charles Worth opens couture establishment in Paris
1859Charles Darwin publishes his
theory of evolution in “The Origin of the Species”
1860Charles Worth meets the Empress Eugenie and begins to design her
clothes
1861Reunification of Italy
Giuseppe Garibaldi
1861 -1865Civil War in the United States
1862Congress passes the Morrill Act, establishing Land Grant Colleges
Justin Smith Morrill1863
Emancipation Proclamation ends slavery in the United States
1863Ebeneezer Butterick patents the first
sized, paper pattern for clothing.
1865Abraham Lincoln is assassinated
1867United States purchases Alaska from the
Russians
Check for $7,200,000.00
1867Harper’s Bazar, fashion magazine, begins
publication
1869Transcontinental railroad completed
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3 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
The style lines for women’s dress at the beginning of the crinoline period were like those of the late Romantic Period.
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4 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
The innovation of the cage crinoline or hoopskirt c. 1857 contributed to the continuing popularity of very wide skirts.
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5 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
Hoops to support skirts were not a new idea. They had been used in the 16th and 18th Centuries.
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6 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
Cartoonists found hoopskirts a rich subject for humor.
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7 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
Before the adoption of the cage crinoline, women’s rights advocates had attempted to reform women’s dress proposing the bloomer dress. The support provided by hoops helped to make women’s skirts lighter, therefore less encumbering, and
the bloomer costume faded away.
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8 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
Women’s under drawers were made of cotton.
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9 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
Over the under drawers, they placed a chemise.
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10 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
Over the chemise, went a corset.
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11 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
Over the corset went a camisole or corset cover.
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12 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
Next, the hoop was added.
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13 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
And then a single petticoat over the hoop. In winter, it might be made of flannel.
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14 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
Dresses were usually two piece, had a full gathered or pleated skirt, and a dropped shoulder line.
• Daytime dresses had high necks• Evening dresses had low, often
off-the-shoulder necklines
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15 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
To go outdoors any of several garments might be worn.
• A shawl, perhaps one of the Kashmir shawls popular since the beginning of the century
• A short jacket• A mantle
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16 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
Accessories of Note
Jewelry
Footwear
Miser’s PurseParasol
Under sleeves and Chemisette
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17 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
A man’s undergarments included under drawers and, in cold weather, perhaps an
undershirt.
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18 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
Over which he placed a shirt, worn with a tie or cravat.
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19 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
And over that trousers, held up by suspenders.
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20 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
Next, a vest.
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21 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
Men could choose from several different jacket types.
• Dress or tailcoat for formal, evening wear
• Frock coat for daytime• Sack jacket for less formal occasions
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22 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
For outdoors, a variety of cloaks, capes, overcoats.
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23 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
Accessories of Note
Hats
TiesPocket Watch and Fob
Suspenders or Braces
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24 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
Although both boy and girl toddlers wore skirts, older children were dressed much as adults.
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25 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
With the opening of the House of Worth in Paris, British-born Charles Worth began the high fashion dressmaking that
became know as the haute couture. His clients were rich, famous and royal women from all over the world.
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26 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
Military conflicts inspired some fashionable styles.
• The Garibaldi Blouse from the red shirts worn by the soldiers fighting under General Giuseppe Garibaldi for the liberation of Italy
• Zouave jackets worn by Algerian soldiers and adopted by an American Civil War regiment.
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27 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
Though sports for women were limited, they did have costumes specifically for bathing and riding horseback.
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28 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
By the end of the decade of the 1860’s, the fashionable silhouette had changed. It featured:
Skirt fullness moved more to the back.Not a gathered, but a gored skirtA higher waistline
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29 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
For Further Study
Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period Clothing
Texas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm Bata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html Bath Museum http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection
of images of garments and accessories. http://www.camrax.com Museum of the City of New York. Images from several exhibits. www.mcny.org
/collections Philadelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute
www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp Smithsonian National Museum of American History, Washington, DC
http://americanhistory2.si.edu/costume/fullindex.cfm Cornell University Costume Collection http://
char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html Drexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html
19th Century Shoeshttp://www.northampton.gov.uk/Museums/Collections/Boot_and_Shoe/History_of_Shoes/19th_Century.htm
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30 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
For Further Study
Paisley Shawlshttp://dept.kent.edu/museum/exhibit/paisley/paisleyex2.html http://www.izaak.unh.edu/museum/shawls/dp_index.htm
Hoopskirtshttp://www.greenlightwrite.com/hoopskirt.htm http://www.philamuseum.org/exhibitions/installations/hoopskirts.shtml http://demode.tweedlebop.com/crinoline.html
Charles F. Worth, Couturierhttp://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/wrth/hd_wrth.htm
Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic ClothingArnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 1: 1660-1860. Vol. 2: 1860-1940.
New York: Drama Book Specialists.Bradfield, N. 1997. Costume in Detail. New York: Costume and Fashion Press.Waugh, N. 1991. The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900. New York: Theater
Arts Books.
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31 C H A P T E R T H I R T E E NTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869
Image Credits
Image of Cage Crinoline, courtesy of the New York Public Library of Digital Images.
Various images, courtesy of Karen Augusta, c. 2005, [ www.antique-lace.com ].
Image of Cage Crinoline, c. 1860, courtesy of Suzi Clarke, [ www.suziclarke.co.uk ].
Image of Harper’s Front Page c. 1867, courtesy of Michael Ward, [ www.magazineart.org ].
Various images, courtesy of Violet J. Willis, [ www.trousseau.net ].
Image of Drawers, c. 1850-1860, courtesy of Donna Neary, [ www.heritagestudio.com ].
Various images, courtesy of Deborah Burke, [ www.antiquedress.com ].
Image of Farthingale and Panier, courtesy of [ www.farthingales.on.ca ].
Image of Spring Fashions, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Image Collection.
Image of the Garibaldi Blouse, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Image Collection.
Image of Swimwear, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Image Collection.
Various images, courtesy of Karen Augusta, [ www.antique-fashion.com ], c. 2005.
Various images in this chapter are courtesy of Claire King; [ www.clipart.com ]; Photo Arts; Fairchild Publications, Inc.;
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