ABOUT USAurora Expeditions embodies the spirit of adventure, travelling to some of the most wild and
remote places on our planet. With 25 years’ experience, our small group voyages allow for a
truly intimate experience with nature.
Our expeditions push the boundaries with flexible and innovative itineraries, exciting wildlife
experiences and fascinating lectures. You’ll share your adventure with a group of like-minded
souls in a relaxed, casual atmosphere while making the most of every opportunity for adventure
and discovery. Our highly experienced expedition team of naturalists, historians and destination
specialists are passionate and knowledgeable – they are the secret to a fulfilling and successful
voyage.
Whilst we are dedicated to providing a ‘trip of a lifetime’, we are also deeply committed to
education and preservation of the environment. Our aim is to travel respectfully, creating
lifelong ambassadors for the protection of our destinations.
ABOUT US
Waterproof Expeditions creates life-enhancing travel experiences which exhilarate and
fascinate. We believe that the best experiences have never been based purely on cost. With
over 50 years combined experiential travelling in (underwater) cinematography, yacht and
cruise expeditions and exploring and diving in remote and extreme places we speak from
experience. We like to share this passion with you and feed the mind. By educating and
inspiring. By breathless moments, and sometimes by extending your personal boundaries.
With scheduled departures or tailor made private expeditions, designed around the element
of water. Above and beyond the Ocean’s surface. From diving and snorkelling in Antarctica’s
polar waters, true ice diving in the White Sea and swimming with sea lions in Galapagos.
But also our unique deep ocean expeditions with personal submarines…Tell us about your
ultimate itinerary and we make your dream trip come true!
A first walk in any new country is one of the things which makes life on this planet worth being grateful for. —Charles William Beebe
At Punta Arenas the atmosphere was one of anxious anticipation. Would the plane fly
to Antarctica or wouldn’t it? At the mercy of Mother Nature, we had already been delayed
by 24 hours, and so we were even more anxious and ready to get down to the icy continent.
Thankfully a window of good weather opened up long enough to fly, and after a comfortable
two hour flight the BA147 jet landed on a groomed gravel runway at Chile’s air base Frei
Station, situated on King George Island.
Our first challenge was to locate a pair of gumboots (still warm from the outgoing group of
passengers) that fit “well enough for now” to walk down the snow and ice-covered “road” to
beach. Although the Antarctic wind whipped around us, the sun sparkled off the spectacular
snowy landscape. In the distance, the Polar Pioneer gleamed brightly against the dark blue
waters of Maxwell Cove. On our arrival at the beach, we were also able to meet the first of the
Antarctic wildlife, with a couple of gentoo and chinstrap penguins preening themselves on
the beach nearby. We were definitely in Antarctica!
The next challenge was to take a rather splashy ride in the Zodiacs to the ship. With the wind
increasing, so too were the waves. Indeed our exit onto the gangway required a little light-
footed dance with driver and sailor. But, we had arrived at our new floating home away from
home, and in just getting here we had certainly enjoyed our first big adventure!
After dinner we all met in the bar for a briefing where Stephen introduced us to the exped-
ition team and shared our plans for the days to come. Together we total 53 passengers – an
international gathering representing Australia, France, Japan, New Zealand, Russia, Switzerland,
United Kingdom, and the USA, along with 34 staff and crew.
Position: 23:15 hours
Latitude: 62° 40’ S
Longitude: 59° 18’ W
Course: 219°
Speed: 12.2 knots
Wind Speed: 31 knots
Wind Direction: SW
Barometer: 999.9 hPa & steady
Air Temp: 0°C
Sea Temp: 1°C
DAY 1 | Tuesday, 28 February 2017
PUNTA ARENAS, ChIlE & KING GEORGE ISlAND, ANTARCTICA
On waking, any bleary-eyes would have surely been short-lived. Beyond our portholes, the
magical icy world of Antarctica beckoned. Towering snow-capped pinnacles stretched to the
skies, separated only by massive rivers of glacial ice that flowed into the sea. Icebergs bobbed
about in the morning light – showing us that ice is indeed blue in hue.
As well as completing our final preparations for landing in Antarctica, we took time to drink in
the spectacular views as we cruised down the Gerlache Strait. With calm conditions, we could
easily see the blows of the humpback whales also cruising these waters, and were thrilled to
be joined by three curious individuals. It became a situation of “who is looking at whom” with
these gentle giants of the sea spy-hopping and rolling to eyeball the ship and the line-up of
excited humans on its outer decks.
After lunch we set off for our first activities at Cuverville Island. We could not have imagined
a more perfect Antarctic afternoon! Under bright blue skies and a warming sun we cruised
alongside sleepy humpbacks and visited snoozing Weddell and crabeater seals on their
floating beds of ice. A series of vast, sculpted icebergs captivated our imaginations, and
groups of porpoising penguins defied the reaction times of our photography skills and
camera shutters.
On shore, we met our first gentoo penguins. Now, relatively late in their summer breeding
season, these enigmatic little birds were scattered far and wide across the rocky beach going
about their penguin business – heading to and from the sea, preening their feathers, feeding
(or running from) their chicks, or sprawled out on the rocks asleep. Many of us sprawled out
in similar fashion to take in the show around us.
Meanwhile, the kayakers set off on their first paddle, circumnavigating the island and adding
some bright colour and scale to our photographs. They enjoyed some perfect paddling
conditions before joining us on shore. The snorkelers and divers also had their first ventures
into the watery world of Antarctica – the divers were delighted to see starfish and small
crustaceans in crystal clear water, while the snorkelers cavorted about with some playful fur
seals off the landing beach.
It was quite simply, a spectacular Antarctic day.
Position: 19:05 hours
Latitude: 64° 40’ S
Longitude: 62° 37’ W
Location: Cuverville Island
Speed: at anchor
Wind Speed: 5 knots
Wind Direction: SW
Barometer: 997.3 hPa & steady
Air Temp: 3°C
Sea Temp: 1°C
DAY 2 | Wednesday, 1 March 2017
GERlAChE STRAIT & CUvERvIllE ISlAND
When you get something as magnificent as a morning sail down the lemaire Channel, no
one seems to mind being woken up early. Stephen’s dulcet tones roused us a little before
06:00, and despite some of us still sporting our “bed hair” we were dressed and out on deck
with cameras in hand soon after. Only 600 metres wide, but with towering 1000-metre peaks
acting as sentry and plunging steeply to the sea, the lemaire Channel’s reputation of grandeur
and beauty is truly deserved.
having turned to starboard at the end of the channel, we were promptly faced with a maze of
huge icebergs blocking the intended path of Polar Pioneer into Salpetriere Bay. But ne’er fear,
we have Zodiacs and kayaks! It was not long before we had arrived at Port Charcot near Booth
Island. A landing allowed us to take in the spectacular views the penguins enjoy all summer,
as well as climb high to another good vantage point marked by a cairn – historic remains from
Jean-Baptiste Charcot’s 1903-1905 French Antarctic Expedition.
later, a cruise amongst an array of grounded icebergs in the bay topped off our morning.
With a beautiful soft, diffuse light the icy sculptures reflected their own extraordinary range
of blue hues. Others had decorative tinges of black and brown – patches of moraine picked
up from the sides or bottom of the valleys that the glacier had crept down, eventually giving
birth to the iceberg as it calved off the glacier front. We discovered also that ice can assume
all sorts of different textures. The surface of some icebergs was melting, and looked shiny
and translucent, others were dusted with powdery snow and looked like confectionary, while
some had huge sweeping smooth curves like the perfect ski slope.
Silky velvety crabeater seals snoozed together on ice floes – their pale bellies soaking up the
sun. Some opened up their eyes to gaze upon us before heading back to sleep, while others
joined us in the water. Popping their heads up to look at us, some got so close we could
almost smell their krill-infused breath.
After a short cruise down the Penola Strait, we leapt at the opportunity to get outside
once more at Petermann Island. Snorkelers and divers took to the water and enjoyed the
underwater landscape, while the kayakers toured the waters around the island. For the land-
lovers, heidi led a search for the Adélie penguins that reside on Petermann Island. Although
few in numbers at this time of year, they were admired by many – with their handsome black
and white plumage, and white eye-ring of constant surprise.
Position: 18:15 hours
Latitude: 65° 11’ S
Longitude: 64° 08’ W
Location: Petermann Island
Speed: at anchor
Wind: calm Barometer: 995.9 hPa & steady
Air Temp: 4°C
Sea Temp: 1°C
DAY 3 | Thursday, 2 March 2017
lEMAIRE ChANNEl; PORT ChARCOT & PETERMANN ISlAND
DAY 4 | Friday, 3 March 2017
vERNADSKY STATION (ARGENTINE ISlANDS) & YAlOUR ISlANDSPosition: 21:00 hours
Latitude: 65° 00’ S
Longitude: 63° 48’ W
Course: 34°
Speed: 6.2 knots
Wind: calm Barometer: 1001.3 hPa & rising
Air Temp: 2°C
Sea Temp: 1°C
Although the day started with a low set of clouds obscuring the jagged peaks of the
adjacent mountain range, these vaporous curtains were soon drawn back to reveal a brilliant
sun. Under it’s rays, the snowy slopes appeared to be strewn with sparkling diamonds and
icebergs dazzled and twinkled in the waters around us. These icebergs are Mother Nature’s
perfect works of art. Born from massive glaciers, they spend their lives being carved and
sculpted by her winds, waves, tides and currents. They form towers and ramparts, arches
and windows, and every possible shape – capturing our imaginations with their raw beauty.
Replete with myriad textures and colours, they could very likely to be found in any museum of
modern art. On this day in Antarctica we were fortunate to see some fine examples of these
icy monuments, and many of us channelled our inner Ansel Adams as we photographed
them at every angle.
The morning visit to the Ukrainian station of vernadsky gave us an insight into modern
station life in the Antarctic. We had the opportunity to tour the station main laboratories and
building, as well as meet members of the station team within the small shop and Faraday
bar. Originally owned by the British (then called Faraday Station), the station was sold to the
Ukrainians for one British Pound (still displayed proudly on the bar) in 1996. It also has the
proud title of being the oldest operational station in the Antarctic Peninsula region, with
continuous meteorological records, which have been collected from 1947.
The narrow waterways around the station provided us with some interesting cruising,
snorkelling, diving and kayaking. The underwater world provided our snorkelers and divers
with some exciting finds – sponges, colourful starfish, sea spiders, and nudibranchs – in still,
crystal clear waters.
After a short motor over lunch we arrived at the Yalour Island group – our focus for the
afternoon’s activities. Groups of Adélie penguins stood about in the sun, with some
showing off their tobogganing skills – propelling themselves along on their bellies with
their feet (leaving distinctive trails in the snow). We took the opportunity to each find a quiet
spot on the island to drink in the vast, spectacular landscapes around us and contemplate
our Antarctic adventures so far.
It was definitely another day to celebrate, and so that’s exactly what we did. With silly hats
donned, and tasty glühwein in hand, we moved onto the stern deck for a barbeque party to
remember as we cruised slowly under the towering peaks of the lemaire Channel and the
orange glow of the setting sun. A big thank you to Chefs Allan and Bert for their scrumptious
feast!
Position: 18:13 hours
Latitude: 64° 48’ S
Longitude: 62° 38’ W
Course: 306°
Speed: 12.5 knots
Wind Speed: 15 knots
Wind Direction: E
Barometer: 1007.9 hPa & rising
Air Temp: -2°C
Sea Temp: 1°C
As the ship slumbered, the day began early for the kayakers as they dipped their paddles into
the icy waters of the Peltier Channel. Delighted by the mirror-like reflections of majestic snow
capped peaks, they headed out for their longest paddle of the trip, a mighty 11.4 kilometres.
On board, the bright red lines of paint against the dark huts of the old British “Base A” or
Bransfield house caught our eye across the grey waters of Port lockroy to Goudier Island.
Fat gentoo penguin chicks greeted us in various stages of their first moult in preparation for
the coming winter. We were acknowledged with either nonchalance or intense interest as
we picked our way through many slumbering forms, stepping carefully over slippery rocks
streaked in pungent artful squirts of pink and white guano, like an interactive modern art
exhibit. Snowy white sheathbills stood surveying the scene – first balancing on one foot, then
the other. Nearby, two mottled sheathbill fledglings ventured in and out from their safe place
under the wooden verandah. Inside Bransfield house, postcards were written home to loved
ones and left for delivery in the Antarctic spring. We wrote of fantastically large icebergs,
breath-taking whale encounters and brisk Zodiac cruises beneath mountains frosted with
clouds. Meanwhile the lounge sat those scribbling their name in the visitor’s book, joining
the list of intrepid polar voyagers. Elsewhere in the museum we were treated to a true 1950s
time capsule. We imagined what life might have been like living in such a remote place, with
hard scientific work to complete and still harder work to do in the kitchen (especially given
the limited and somewhat uninspiring ingredients with which to concoct a meal). Seal brain
omelette, anyone?
Over at Jougla Point the rocks were mobbed with moulting gentoos, the air alive with lost
feathers and eager skuas. The shallow waters were blocked by grease ice, snapping and
crackling as we nosed our Zodiacs around. We happily cruised around spying elegant blue-
eyed shags serenely perched in profile, observing our passing with casual curiosity. Sharp
eyes spotted a lone chinstrap penguin caught south for its moult. Below the icy surface
starfish coloured the depths. Meanwhile a playful leopard seal scooted enthusiastically around
the divers and snorkelers in their Zodiacs. Zipping gracefully from boat to boat, it took great
interest in our activities.
Neko harbour was our playground for the afternoon, rewarding us a first continental landing.
hordes of gentoo penguin chicks greeted us, with almost every one adopting a human for
their very own. The luminescent blues of the nearby glacier impressed us all, and we stared
hard at the precariously balanced turrets of ice – as if our steady gaze would encourage one
to fall. Anticipation filled the air, yet it was only a small calving and rumbles and grumbles we
received.
The kayakers proved to be true Antarctic paddlers as they battled against a strong wind and
short chop to get to land… luck was with them upon return to the ship.
DAY 5 | Saturday, 4 March 2017
PORT lOCKROY & NEKO hARBOUR
In what seemed to be an atypical situation for the South Shetland Islands (at least to the
expedition staff), we woke to a glassy calm sea, clear skies and the absence of any wind. We
were offered yet another day in stark contrast to our arrival in this same area a mere five days
ago. This editor therefore asserts that it is because we paid our “dues” to the weather gods at
that time, our following Antarctic days have been blessed with perfect conditions.
The rocky landscape of hannah Point on livingston Island beckoned us ashore in the morn-
ing. hordes of chinstrap penguins stood about patiently – not only waiting for their annual
moult to finish, but also towards the delighted paparazzi that quietly moved past them in
single file. The few macaroni penguins that tried their best to blend in with the feathery
montage of black and white prompted additional squeals of joy with their flamboyant
yellow crests flopping about their faces as they preened and posed. As we progressed towards
the main beach of Walker Bay, our noses and ears became attuned to new sensations…
a wretched organic odour, and loud echoes of belching, farting, barking elephant seals.
These enormous blubber slugs lay tightly together in different muddy wallows using each
other’s rotund physiques as convenient and cushiony head rests.
The treasures of Whaler’s Bay gave us a final outing in Antarctica to remember. The remains
of the old hektor whaling station, and later British base, stood derelict and damaged from
previous mud and ash flows. A steaming beach and red-hot waters only inches below the
sandy shallows were testament to the island’s volcanic heart. And what seemed initially to
be numerous small boulders strewn across the landscape to the unsuspecting beachcomber
were soon revealed to possess both fur and teeth in the form of snoozing fur seals. After
scaling Ronald hill and/or scrambling up to Neptune’s Window, we reluctantly returned to
the mother ship. A perfect piece of navigation saw the Polar Pioneer slip easily through the
narrow entrance of “Neptune’s Bellows” and back out into the open waters of the Bransfield
Strait.
By the time we get around to reading these words – perhaps even only once we are home
in our everyday lives – I wonder whether we will remember the entire experience that is
Antarctica. To experience Antarctica – with it’s sounds, smells, sights and feelings – is to
be completely engulfed by it. It is something much bigger than all of us, and one can only
attempt to understand it by visiting it. It is the epitome of “you have to be there to experience
it”. It is so much more than a photograph. It is so much more than words can aptly describe.
Adjectives and superlatives are only a mere hint at the sensorial journey one has within this
last great, icy wilderness.
Position: 18:35 hours
Latitude: 63° 00’ S
Longitude: 60° 32’ W
Course: 192°
Speed: 11.7 knots
Wind Speed: 8 knots
Wind Direction: NW
Barometer: 1013.3 hPa & steady
Air Temp: 2°C
Sea Temp: 1°C
DAY 6 | Sunday, 5 March 2017
hANNAh POINT & WhAlER’S BAY (DECEPTION ISlAND)
In a welcome continuation of our good luck, our day was spent on a Drake lake. Instead
of wild winds and large seas that induce the dreaded mal de mer, most of us ended up
having to battle with a gentle, sleep-inducing rocking-reminiscent of our days in the cradle.
In between bouts of activity for feeding, learning and gazing out to sea, the companionways
fell eerily silent. Certainly, it was not unusual to see our fellow shipmates emerge from their
cabins with distinct impressions of pillowslips on their faces.
For those that could stay awake in the lecture room, our day at sea also provided some
opportunities for education. heidi took the morning slot with her presentation on seabirds of
the Southern Ocean. Armed with our new knowledge and enthusiasm, some of us headed
straight back up to the bridge to see if we could spy some of the albatross and petrel species
that inhabit this part of the world. Although the lack of wind also meant a shortage of these
wind-loving avian friends, keen bridge-goers were rewarded with a rare Drake sighting of two
rockhopper penguins!
later, liz shared her love of ice in her presentation, “Bergs, Brash, Frazil and Floe”. Armed with
new ways to interpret the life events of the iceberg sculptures we had seen, some ventured
off to review their own photographs. Could we see vertical ice grooves eroded by newly
released air bubbles underwater; successive ridges from tide and water lines; or perhaps
cupules formed from the current forced into miniature eddies alongside the ice?
Just before happy hour, Martin gave us a short introduction into his role in the making of the
BBC’s “Operation Iceberg” before watching episode one. Although it was filmed in Arctic, the
science behind the northern glaciers and icebergs remains true for those in the south. (We
also found out how he got that scar above his eye).
later in the evening we had neared the Antarctic Convergence or Polar Front. The
convergence is a natural boundary where the cold, dense Antarctic surface water dives
beneath the relatively warmer subantarctic surface water. This creates an area of upwelling
and nutrient availability, and is an important biological phenomenon that influences the
distribution of plankton, fish, and birds.
DAY 7 | Monday, 6 March 2017
DRAKE PASSAGEPosition: 19:15 hours
Latitude: 58° 39’ S
Longitude: 65° 10’ W
Course: 339°
Speed: 12.1 knots
Wind: calm Barometer: 999.9 hPa & steady
Air Temp: 5°C
Sea Temp: 3°C
how many people can say that they started their day by standing in the sunshine on the
deck of a ship looking across at Cape horn? It was a moment that saw many of us pinching
ourselves lest we believe we were in a dream. having being given permission by the Chilean
authorities to approach within 3 nautical miles, we were able to clearly make out the rocky
cliffs and surrounding rocky waters of this notorious piece of the maritime world. We paused
to reflect on the number of explorers and sailors that have taken the challenge of these seas
to “round the horn”; some losing their lives in the effort.
Although this final day at sea involved thoughts of onwards travel and packing of bags, we
were also able to enjoy some wildlife watching from the outer decks and bridge. A variety
of seabirds flew about the ship, including numerous black-browed albatross – their white
plumage glowing under the bright sky. Magellanic penguins swam about the ship as we
dropped our anchor in the Beagle Channel, taking our number of penguin species spotted
to a total of six!
In a magnificent show of the cetacean variety, we were very excited to come across a group
of at least thirty sei whales. Although they were busy with a typical summer feeding “frenzy”,
we were able to get good views of their long dark grey backs and hooked dorsal fins as they
surfaced to breathe. With only a very slight breeze their watery blows appeared metres above
the water, looking all the while like a perfectly orchestrated series of puffs from multiple
underwater steam train.
later in the day, we came together to toast our fantastic voyage and our equally fantastic
Captain and his crew. In complete contrast to our welcome drinks where we first came
together as a group of strangers, the bar was filled with the happy chatter of new friends and
fellow expeditioners that have shared a very special Antarctic adventure. May the memories
live long and bright!
Position: 17:15 hours
Latitude: 54° 57’ S
Longitude: 66° 52’ W
Course: 302°
Speed: 6 knots
Wind: calm Barometer: 1006.6 hPa & steady
Air Temp: 9°C
Sea Temp: 5°C
DAY 8 | Tuesday, 7 March 2017
DRAKE PASSAGE & BEAGlE ChANNEl
POEM INSCRIBED ON ThE CAPE hORN AlBATROSS MONUMENT written by Sara vial
I am the albatross that waits for you at the end of the earth. I am the forgotten soul of the dead sailors
who crossed Cape horn from all the seas of the world.
But they did not die in the furious waves.
Today they fly in my wings to eternity
in the last trough of the Antarctic winds.
Position: 07:15 hours
Latitude: 54° 48’ S
Longitude: 68° 17’ W
Location: Ushuaia
Speed: in port
Wind: calm Barometer: 1013.3 hPa & rising
Air Temp: 8°C
Sea Temp: 5°C
DAY 9 | Wednesday, 8 March 2017
UShUAIA, ARGENTINA
ANTARCTICA BEING
Piercing sunrays, clear blue sky White wonderland reflected in still water
Towering mountains, flowing glaciers Sculptured icebergs, turquoise below
Three stooges penguins, squawking skuas Silky crabeater seals lounging, playing
Majestic topography, rapidly changing skies Soft pink post sunset
Peace, tranquillity, calm, contentment Antarctica
—Jeanette Gentle
MEMORIES OF ANTARCTICA
by Alison Bell
DAY 1:
Rolling and roiling
Don’t want to be here!
DAY 2:
Wow, is that a humpback, wait 2, 3, more!
Icebergs with deep blue streaks, rolling and
splitting, noise and waves.
Smells of penguin rookeries;
Penguin highways, well-travelled.
Inquisitive penguins, moulting and calling for
food.
Silence.
Cold.
Sparkling sun on pristine waters.
Gentoo penguins zooming through the
water, leaping and jumping.
Pink snow from algal growth.
Clear deep water.
Seals tussling, playing, diving and jousting.
Dry noses, cracking lips,
laughter and joy.
Washing of boots, gearing up and down for
wild Zodiac rides.
The beautiful sparkling sea and wild untamed
nature from the Captain’s bridge.
Snorkelers corralled by playing seals;
Sitting on the bridge in the dying light
transforming icebergs into brilliant white,
stark against the sea;
Tinging the mountains with aching pink,
teasing the darkening sky.
DAY 3:
Early morning on deck through icebergs in
the lemaire Channel.
Sun kissing stark white peaks;
Seals cavorting amongst the ice.
Ship’s hull scraping and gliding through
sheets of ice and broken icebergs;
Minke whales slicing through the water.
A lone seal basking on a berg;
Silent pink tinged beauty.
Oh the cold!
Dawn awakening the landscape, cold, blue,
white and austere.
Cracking of ice, mother penguins calling to
feed chicks,
Chicks crying for food.
Big brown skuas among the rookeries,
waiting to snatch.
Icebergs, gigantic, immense, blue and white,
Ready to topple and roll to a new rest.
Slithers of seals on bergy bits, agile in the
water and clashing clumsily on the ice as they
launch themselves up from the sea.
Slinky minke whales just revealing their
presence;
Antarctic terns flying and skimming, their call
echoing in the silence.
Brash, growler, bergy bits and icebergs, all
growing in stature with their names.
Adelie penguins, chunky, black and white
hidden among the squawking gentoo.
Gentoo chicks looking for food, inquisitive of
these humans intruding upon their peace.
harsh cracks and crashes from the glaciers
opposite – the signal for new icebergs, which
then tilt, reform and reframe;
Their surfaces moulded by air bubbles –
pockmarked, grooved and blue; ice aeons old
coated in a salty tang.
Sunset over Antarctica – a peaceful place,
refuge from the busyness of our
technological age.
Skies blue, purple, pink and green, defying
our minds with the vastness of the horizon.
Mountains in silhouette against a darkening
sharp blue sky, snow crisp and starkly white.
Seals rolling and diving; penguins on their
journeys for yet more krill – enveloped by the
purple sea as the sun says its farewells.
Clinging to these images, imprinting them
as a ward against the tangles of life beyond
this place.
DAY 4:
Chilling cold wind on faces while skipping
through the water in throbbing zodiacs.
Scientists absorbed, immersed and alone in
this wild place with Gentoo for company;
Moses, lichen clinging to sun facing rocks
glowing green, dripping water droplets,
Cushions for brown skuas nesting, squawking
at these huddled humans in their noisy
boats.
historic huts, preserved and remembering
harsher times in this southern land.
The land, claimed by nature where we are
merely intrusions, deluded by our own
human importance.
Cracking of bergs, growlers and brash in the
deep channel, constantly evolving, reshaping
and adding to this vast ocean.
Adelie penguins skiing up and down hill on
pearlescent bellies, using wings as guides
and feet for thrust!
BBQ in Antarctica? Yes, grooving to the B52s
with a backdrop of pink and gold on sheer
mountains in the lemaire Channel …a
humpback at our tail and seals on the bow.
heaven, unbelievable heaven – how to relate
this miracle of nature in all its senses?
Impossible yet imperative – it must stay
protected, pristine and hallowed.
DAY 5:
Dawn breaks on a cloudy sky, landscape
charcoal grey, blue and white.
lockroy station standing sentinel to human
efforts to measure and understand.
Baby sheathbill tottering among the
moulting Gentoo guarding this historic site.
leopard seal puts pay to diving and
snorkelling – toothy snip ending the hum of
the Mawson Zodiac.
Steps on the Antarctic continent are met with
more inquisitive gentoo chicks, nipping at
ankles,
Fascinated by these large intruders – food,
friend or foe?
Majestic snow engorged glacier ready to
calve, signals its intent, yet keeps us in
suspense.
horizons of snow covered mountains, misted
in cloud and blowing snow.
The brooding landscape hypnotic from the
bridge, as the light dwindles and fades.
DAY 6:
Day is calm and skies are kind.
Elusive macaroni penguins secrete
themselves amongst the cheeky chinstraps,
who argue and jostle.
Enormities of elephant seals sighing, heaving
and growling,
Reveal red cavernous mouths and plum
seared eyes.
Giant petrel walking thunderbird style,
ungainly among the penguins.
Bones, once creatures of the deep assembled
as in life on the volcanic sand;
Remnants of human intervention – sawn
whale bone, timbers strewn by the elements.
leafy fossils, reminder of the origins of this
sacred place.
Fin whales reveal their presence in the
darkened waters tinged with blue.
Deception Island looms, brutally different
from its neighbours.
Steaming shoreline, industrial relics standing
testament to bloody slaughter;
Difficult times for man and whale.
Slumbering seals reclaim the black sands and
abandoned boats;
While hillocks of whale carcasses lie partly
buried and lonely graves stand to attention.
Unexpected starfish and krill scattered on the
beach,
As snowflakes fall silently on this last day in
Antarctica.
DAY 7:
The dreaded Drake, pitching and yawing,
Yet not at its worst.
Watching for the fabled albatross,
Coleridge’s poetry underlining the search.
1. Punta Arenas, Chile2. Frei Station, King George Island3. Cuverville Island4. Lemaire Channel (SC)5. Port Charcot6. Petermann Island7. Vernadsky Station8. Yalour Islands9. Port Lockroy10. Neumayer Channel (SC)11. Neko Harbour12. Hannah Point, Livingston Island13. Whaler’s Bay, Deception Island14. Ushuaia, Argentina
ANTArCTIC PeNINSULA28 Febuary – 8 March 2017
ToTAL DISTANCe: 1157.7 NAUTICAL MILeSFUrTHeST SoUTH: 65°18.27’S; 64°17.20’W –
75.5 NM FroM THe ANTArCTIC CIrCLe
2
1
3
8
4
765
9 11
10
13
12
14
Elephant Island
King George Island
To Ushuaia
From Punta Arenas
Robert IslandGreenwich Islandlivingston Island
Snow Island
Smith Island
low Island
DeceptionIsland
TrinityIsland
BrANSFIeLD STrAIT
Brabant Island
Anvers Island
Nelson Island
ClarenceIsland
Snowhill Island
James Ross
Island
Dundee Island
Joinville Island
D‘Urville Island
GibbsIsland
WeDDeLL SeA
Seymour Island
KAYAKING GUIDe: Al Bakker & Brigitte locher Bakker
KAYAKerS:Peter Buckingham Anne harris Kate holloway vivian McFeeters
Kerith Buckingham Warwick hassan Julia Kramer
Robert halfpenny Guy holloway Russell MacDonald
DAY 1 & 2: AT SEA
DAY 3: CUvERvIllE ISlAND – Distance: 8.1 km
The “wow” factor was high on our introductory paddle as we were greeted with calm seas
and sunny skies. A real treat as we circumnavigated Cuverville Island, taking in all the penguin
antics displayed on our journey. Fur seals, a Weddell seal, crab eater seals on ice floes, and
fantastic sculptured icebergs.
DAY 4: PORT ChARCOT – Distance: 10.5 km
Sunny skies again and glassy conditions, “a Weddell seal performance” as two younger
seals played around an iceberg checking our reactions with wide eyes and smiles. We then
meandered through an ice maze of spires, castles, humps and arches. We slowly made
our way through to a larger island with an open snowfield to traipse across. From a higher
vantage point we could look out on the surrounding ice towers with a hot chocolate. As the
tide dropped it became a guessing game as to which narrow rocky channel finished with a
dead end as we worked our way back to the ship.
PETERMAN ISlAND – Distance: 7.4 km
The calm conditions continued but the sky had a few ominous lenticular clouds on the
horizon. As we circumnavigated the island there was a lumpy swell on the outside. Good
training for vivian in the single kayak! We crept slowly by numerous fur seals practising their
modelling poses as shags flew overhead. A fantastic display of icy towers and castles dotted
the horizon as we made our way around. Completely surrounded by emptiness amidst an
icy landscape made for a humbling and inspiring afternoon. On our final stretch we found a
secret harbour sheltered by icebergs for a lovely hello to a busy gentoo colony.
DAY 5: vERNANDSKY STATION – Distance: 8.2 km
A few masts on shore gave us a clue to our paddling direction in this maze of islands. We
cruised past a snow slope covered in cavorting fur seals and then along a rocky shoreline with
many nooks and crannies. We reached a metal marker on the outside of “Cornice Channel”
where a narrow inlet separates two islands only 30 metres apart. Just inside the protected bay
was Wordie house and time for a quick walk through history (and hot chocolate!) We spied
a lazing Weddell seal and paddled through a delightful glassy smooth channel filled with
an array of ice shapes, before finally landing at vernandsky station. After a very informative
tour and chat with the scientists we returned to the ship completing a circumnavigation of
the island.
YAlOUR ISlANDS – Distance: 7.9 km
The ship stopped closer to the Argentine Islands than the Yalours so we opted to explore this
barrier of islands blocking the outer swells. Wildlife was scarce but a convoluted connection
of rocky channels and ice mazes made for an exciting paddle. The slow outside swell made
itself felt as we flirted along the exposed coast darting between islands and ice floes.
DAY 6: PElTIER ChANNEl & PORT lOCKROY – Distance: 11.4 km
Shades of pink in the early morning sky (0500 am) encouraged us to take advantage of an “early
morning” paddle. Wake up at 5:30 am and off the ship 06:10 with bleary eyes. But what a day!
As the ship drifted mid-channel we launched and paddled towards a gentoo colony visible
in the distance. Seldom visited, this protected rocky bay was a lovely wakeup with penguin
chicks scurrying around doing their business – chasing food. There was a distinctive nip to
the air so it soon became time to continue our exploration down the Peltier Channel. With
mountains towering above on both sides we explored several glacial bays before landing on
a small island for a second breakfast of brie and treats. With 360-degree views we had prime
viewing for a great calving directly across from us. We continued on down to what appeared
to be a dead end before turning 90 degrees and viewing Polar Pioneer in the distance. We
finished this lovely morning outing with a short visit to Port lockroy and the museum.
NEKO hARBOUR – Distance: 2 km
Katabatic winds dropped off the glaciers for our chilliest and windiest paddle yet. A landing
on the continent was our plan but it was a headwind all the way. Tantalising close but so far!
Slowly we made our way to shore only to have a surprise capsize as our star single paddler
caught her bow on the rocks. Brrr…
DAY 7: WhAlERS BAY – Distance: 7 km
A full contingent of paddlers came out for a fantastic visit to this unique Antarctic geological
masterpiece – a wonderful way to wrap up a great week of kayaking in Antarctica. After
transiting Neptune’s Bellows on our trusty ship we took advantage of perfectly calm
conditions to paddle out of the caldera to the outside of Deception Island. Close up views of
packed volcanic material now formed in castle and turret shapes in reddish hues and browns
provided a nice contrast from the black and white landscape inside the bay. We cruised past
a few fur seals protecting their little rocks and explored a chain of caves each with their own
distinctive rumble as the small surge crashed into the back corners of a natural harmonic
chamber. Our destination was a small black sand beach under Neptune’s Window. Alas the
fur seals thought it was as good hideout too! More than thirty fur seals spread out along the
beach along with a Weddell seals so we stopped to say hello and continued on navigating
through a few towering stacks. Then it was time to return to the inner bay for a final “hot
chocolate” in brisk conditions, a quick explore on shore and the last paddle to the ship. A big
thanks to everyone helping on the clean up as we quickly washed things in preparation for
heading out to the Drake Passage. A great week of kayaking in near perfect weather!
DISTANCe PADDLeD: 62.5 KILoMeTreS IN 8 PADDLeS
KAYAKING lOG BY Al BAKKER
ANTARCTICA PADDlE
by Julia Kramer
The crushing sound escapes as I dip the paddle into the ink blue water layered with
a fine line of ice. We navigate through ice floes and glaciers – one with candied blue
ribbons, another pock-marked from the wind glistening like the sheen of a Gentoo’s
belly against the sun.
The wind dies, and with no clouds in the sky, I can see the large, round rocks beneath
us. Right stroke – pulling forward to meet the catch, we point our nose toward the
bend in the channel. Greeting fur seals amongst the shore, one slides into the sea,
curiously circling our boats. Then, with one swift, strong push, it launches itself from
the water – meeting our gaze with his wet, puppy eyes.
left stroke – pulling forward, we spot a spout – one, then another near the horizon.
leaning into our stroke, steading each limb, we push onward, reaching for a closer look.
Minke Whales – each fin bobbing in the glass water before us.
A sound like thunder striking, we turn our gaze as a large shelf of the glacier calves.
Thrashing sheets of ice and dusty snow plunge into the channel, creating a crescendo
of waves in the distance.
Paddles resting now, letting the gentle swell guide us, we are encapsulated by the
theatre of Antarctica. She surrounds us with her endless shades and contours of ice-
bergs. her deepening blue seas, and majesty of wildlife. The slow hum of silence is our
backdrop to the orchestra of gulls and petrels above our heads.
As my paddle dips one last time into the ice folds, I close my eyes and take in a deep,
fresh breath of air. Glorious, rich, mysterious Antarctica, you’ve changed us all.
DIVe MASTer: Martin McGrath
DIVe ASSISTANT: Andrew Palma
DIVerS: Eric Koehler Thomas Mercier
SNorKeLerS: Melissa O’Brien Kathleen O’Connor
DAY 1 & 2: AT SEA
DAY 3: CUvERvIllE ISlAND
The sun glittered on the sea and ice alike as we left Polar Pioneer for Cuverville on a perfect
day for our check-out dive. The Zodiacs parted as the snorkelers made for the shore and
the divers cruised around the headland in search of some slightly deeper water. We were
rewarded with crystal clear visibility to test all the equipment. The divers slipped into the
water on the sunlit afternoon for an excellent dive, finding sea stars, brittle stars and isopods
amongst the kelp on the sun-dappled bottom.
The snorkelers first cruised to some crabeater seals on a small iceberg, then caught up to the
other Zodiacs to get up close with a pair of humpback whales in front of the glacier. They
were treated to a hunting leopard seal that had made a catch in the middle of the bay, before
leaving the area for the landing. Our snorkelers spent some time on land before walking in
from the shore for the check-out swim and their first foray into Antarctic waters. They then
quickly made their way to the far end of the beach where they were joined in the water by
four juvenile fur seals that were very willing to come play and pose for some great pictures
and video footage. Some 40 minutes flew by with our snorkelers, emerging from the water a
little chilled but beaming from ear to ear. What a great first day!
DAY 4: PORT ChARCOT
Our snorkelers decided to take the morning off to enjoy the trek to the top of the ridge and
the picturesque scenery. Their appetites whetted from the previous day, our divers prepared
their kit for an iceberg dive in Port Charcot. We found a suitable berg close to the landing site,
and began to kit up to the curious attention of the local crabeater seal population. visibility
was great and we could peer down the sides of the iceberg as it disappeared into the depths.
Our divers kitted up and dropped over the side holding at a depth of 13m. Two-thirds into
their circumnavigation, they were shadowed by two curious crabeater seals which quickly
joined them up close and personal to play and pose for some great underwater footage. The
real action began minutes after our divers had exited the water into the Zodiac. A swarm of
crabeaters simultaneously emerged from beneath the iceberg to surround our Zodiac, which
caused great excitement. Their curiosity peaked, heads began to pop out of the water on
all sides, inches from us. We were in the middle of a krill patch. Penguins off the bow, minke
whale off the port side…a sensory overload. What a morning!
PETERMANN ISlAND
The afternoon found us off Petermann Island, with the sun well on it’s way, we struggled into
dry suits and headed off towards the channels at the west of the island. The channel was
relatively ice free so we cruised around to the right of the channel where a small embayment
had trapped and grounded several icebergs. The divers had the opportunity to see how the
life on the floor of the ocean deals with the dramatic effect of thousands of tonnes of ice
grinding over it with the tide. The snorkelers enjoyed a brief landing at Petermann before
seeking out the engravings made by Charcot’s crew on the other side of the small bay. We
then cruised to the west end of the island where we found an iceberg in a small cove just in
front of some fur seals. The fur seals watched from the shore as our snorkelers enjoyed their
first swim around an iceberg in Antarctica.
DAY 5: vERNADSKY STATION
We cruised along the channel in (yet again) bright sunlight, with no wind and spectacular
visibility to the oceans bottom. We landed at the station first to have a tour and chat with
Dimitri, a diver at the station. After our conversation, we decided to head for Indicator Island,
across from the main channel. The visibility was truly amazing with the divers discovering
huge sea stars and echinoderms amongst the sunlit depths. Our snorkelers dropped over the
side into a shallow bay on the western side of Indicator Island. With bright blue sky, a warm
sun warm and crystal clear visibility, this could be mistaken for the tropics. Our snorkelers
must have thought so as they stayed in the chilled waters for almost an hour exploring the
bright yellow starfish among other small and shelled marine life.
YAlOUR ISlANDS
The small rocky island group continued to bask in the warm sun as we kitted up to dive the
ice-strewn channel opposite the landing area. This morning’s visibility was still in evidence as
they descended toward the rocky bottom. The divers circumnavigated a berg in the channel’s
clear water and moved alongside the berg to study the fantastic shapes of this castle in the
sea. Our snorkelers enjoyed an hour-long landing before cruising to an iceberg close to the
entrance to the channel to pose for photos. They swam in the shallows looking for marine life
on the bottom and again climbing onto some small ice.
DAY 6: PORT lOCKROY
After our visit to the station we found ourselves in the company of an aggressive female
leopard seal. She unfortunately managed to hole the Zodiac as we left the area. So the divers
and snorkelers aborted the activities, albeit with adrenalin coursing through them from the
magnificent display of power by this wonderful animal.
NEKO hARBOUR
A brief landing on continental Antarctica was followed by the obligatory photo opportunity
on a large flat berg not far from the landing site. Snorkelers then kitted up and circumnavigated
the iceberg. The clear visibility provided the opportunity to capture some great colours under
the water.
DIvE & SNORKEl lOG BY MARTIN MCGRATh AND ANDREW PAlMA
DAY 7: hANNAh POINT
We headed for shore in the gentle swell as our first stop on hannah Point, to see some
elephant seals in a wallow on the beach. We also looked at a collection of fossils left amongst
the rocks at the back of the beach. Then it was back to the Zodiac and off to some offshore
rocks. The divers went over the side in disappointing visibility on their first South Shetland
dive, but observed thousands upon thousands of salps and worms in the water column. Our
snorkelers returned to the beach having found no suitable site.
WhAlERS BAY, DECEPTION ISlAND
Anticipation ran high as we turned Polar Pioneer towards Neptune’s Bellows, the semi-hidden
entry to Deception Island’s hidden interior. With hardly a breath of wind, and great visibility,
the divers and snorkelers first walked amongst the history of this epic sight. Then we were into
the Zodiacs and speeding through the clear waters to one of the arms of the caldera. Over
the side the divers dropped into the calm waters, finding brittle star clad whale skeletons, still
being fed upon after more than 100 years!
The snorkelers cruised above them and amongst the large boulders that scattered the shore,
proving tougher than the divers by staying in the water even longer than them! We toasted a
great end to a great trip with some extra special hot chocolate.
BIRD SPECIES lOGBIRD SPECIES FEBRUARY/MARCh
28 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
Gentoo penguin x x x x x x
Chinstrap penguin x x x x
Adélie penguin x x x
Macaroni penguin x
Rockhopper penguin x x
Magellanic penguin x
Wandering albatross x
Southern Royal albatross x
Black-browed albatross x x x
Grey-headed albatross x x
Southern giant petrel x x x x x x
Northern giant petrel x
White-chinned petrel x
Cape petrel x x x
Snow petrel x
Soft-plumaged petrel x
Antarctic prion x
Wilson's storm-petrel x x x x x x x
Black-bellied storm-petrel x
Southern fulmar x
Sooty shearwater x
Great shearwater x
Imperial cormorant x
Antarctic cormorant x x x x x x
Snowy sheathbill x x x
Subantarctic skua x x x x
South polar skua x x x x
Chilean skua x
Kelp gull x x x x x x
Antarctic tern x x x x x x
South American tern x
Southern giant petrel chick Southern giant petrel
Brown skua
Antarctic tern Southern Royal albatross
Cape petrel.
Chinstreap and macaroni penguin
Snowy sheathbill
Adelié penguin
Chinstrap penguinGentoo penguin
Macaroni penguin
Antarctic cormorant
MAMMAl SPECIES lOG
Humpback whale
MAMMAl SPECIES FEBRUARY/MARCh28 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
Antarctic fur seal x x x x
Southern sealion x
Southern elephant seal x
Crabeater seal x x x
Weddell seal x x x
leopard seal x x x
Minke whale x x
Sei whale x
Fin whale x
humpback whale x x
Unidentified whale x
Peale's dolphin x
Dusky dolphin x
Dusky dolphin
Antarctic minke whale
Fin whale
Crabeater seal
ExpEditionErsPeter Abraham
Maggie Aird
Brian Allen
Marie-Claude Armand
Dave Atchason
Alison Bell
Alain Bernigaud
Peter Buckingham
Kerith Buckingham
Casey Carter
Tom Carter
lynne Doolan
Robert Edgar
Paul Fitzpatrick
Jenny Fitzpatrick
Jeanette Gentle
Russell Gentle
Robyn Gottschalk
Robert halfpenny
Anne harris
Warwick hassan
Guy holloway
Kate holloway
Dave Joyner
Mike Kehl
Eric Koehler
Julia Kramer
Bob lenton
Russell MacDonald
Ursula Mattson
Richard Mattson
vivian McFeeters
Thomas Mercier
Kseniia Mishchenko
Michele Morgan
Allan Morgan
Phaedra Morgan
Geoff Nixon
Melissa O’Brien
Kathleen O’Connor
Florence Ong
Christiane Truffaut Riccobono
Judi Russell
Trevor Schwarz
linda Simon
Ross Simon
Alain Truffaut
Michelle vargo
Carol vargo
Richard vargo
Faye Walker
Mike Woodard
Renia Woodard
PHOTO CREDITS
Paper made from 100% recycled material.
ExPEDITION TEAMMaggie Aird
Stephen Anstee
Al Bakker
Alison Bell
Robert Edgar
Robyn Gottschalk
Anne harris
Dave Joyner
Mike Kehl
Eric Koehler
heidi Krajewsky
Julia Kramer
Brigitte locher Bakker
vivian McFeeters
Martin McGrath
Thomas Mercier
Kseniia Mishchenko
Allan Morgan
Phaedra Morgan
Andrew Palma
liz Pope
Trevor Schwarz
Anna Taylor
Michelle vargo
Richard vargo
Faye Walker
voyage log compiled by liz Pope
POlAR PIONEER CREWExpedition leader: Stephen Anstee
Assistant Expedition leader: liz Pope
Trainee AEl: Anna Taylor
hotel Manager: Justine Bornholdt
Naturalist: heidi Krajewsky
Doctor: Judy Braga
head Chef: Allan Estoque
Sous Chef: Albert Cruz
Kayaking Guide: Al Bakker
Kayaking Assistant: Brigitte locher Bakker
Waterproof Dive Master: Martin McGrath
Waterproof Snorkeling Master: Andrew Palma
head Stewardess: Natalia Pustovalova
Stewardess: Alona Usatenko
Daria Belova
Kristina Afanaseva
Margarita Nikitenko
Olga Markhilenok
Russian Crew Chef: Petr Pustovalov
Trainee: Anton Rodionov
Captain: Aleksandr Evgenov
Chief Mate: Bogdan Shmalko
2nd Mate: Sergei Abramov
Maxim Makarovskiy
Radio Operator: Maxim Chilikin
Chief Engineer: Sergei vorobev
2nd Engineer: Denis Strelkov
3rd Engineer: Artur Ropotov
4th Engineer: Yurii horobets
Electrical Engineer: viacheslav Deviatkin
Boatswain: Sergei Khynku
Able Seaman: valerii Riabtcev
Aleksandr Kiselev
Motorman: Aleksei Okunkov
www.auroraexpeditions.com.au
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