Antarctic Peninsula - Aurora Expeditions · On waking, any bleary-eyes would have surely been...

28 February – 8 March 2017 | Polar Pioneer

Antarctic Peninsula

ABOUT USAurora Expeditions embodies the spirit of adventure, travelling to some of the most wild and

remote places on our planet. With 25 years’ experience, our small group voyages allow for a

truly intimate experience with nature.

Our expeditions push the boundaries with flexible and innovative itineraries, exciting wildlife

experiences and fascinating lectures. You’ll share your adventure with a group of like-minded

souls in a relaxed, casual atmosphere while making the most of every opportunity for adventure

and discovery. Our highly experienced expedition team of naturalists, historians and destination

specialists are passionate and knowledgeable – they are the secret to a fulfilling and successful

voyage.

Whilst we are dedicated to providing a ‘trip of a lifetime’, we are also deeply committed to

education and preservation of the environment. Our aim is to travel respectfully, creating

lifelong ambassadors for the protection of our destinations.

ABOUT US

Waterproof Expeditions creates life-enhancing travel experiences which exhilarate and

fascinate. We believe that the best experiences have never been based purely on cost. With

over 50 years combined experiential travelling in (underwater) cinematography, yacht and

cruise expeditions and exploring and diving in remote and extreme places we speak from

experience. We like to share this passion with you and feed the mind. By educating and

inspiring. By breathless moments, and sometimes by extending your personal boundaries.

With scheduled departures or tailor made private expeditions, designed around the element

of water. Above and beyond the Ocean’s surface. From diving and snorkelling in Antarctica’s

polar waters, true ice diving in the White Sea and swimming with sea lions in Galapagos.

But also our unique deep ocean expeditions with personal submarines…Tell us about your

ultimate itinerary and we make your dream trip come true!

A first walk in any new country is one of the things which makes life on this planet worth being grateful for. —Charles William Beebe

At Punta Arenas the atmosphere was one of anxious anticipation. Would the plane fly

to Antarctica or wouldn’t it? At the mercy of Mother Nature, we had already been delayed

by 24 hours, and so we were even more anxious and ready to get down to the icy continent.

Thankfully a window of good weather opened up long enough to fly, and after a comfortable

two hour flight the BA147 jet landed on a groomed gravel runway at Chile’s air base Frei

Station, situated on King George Island.

Our first challenge was to locate a pair of gumboots (still warm from the outgoing group of

passengers) that fit “well enough for now” to walk down the snow and ice-covered “road” to

beach. Although the Antarctic wind whipped around us, the sun sparkled off the spectacular

snowy landscape. In the distance, the Polar Pioneer gleamed brightly against the dark blue

waters of Maxwell Cove. On our arrival at the beach, we were also able to meet the first of the

Antarctic wildlife, with a couple of gentoo and chinstrap penguins preening themselves on

the beach nearby. We were definitely in Antarctica!

The next challenge was to take a rather splashy ride in the Zodiacs to the ship. With the wind

increasing, so too were the waves. Indeed our exit onto the gangway required a little light-

footed dance with driver and sailor. But, we had arrived at our new floating home away from

home, and in just getting here we had certainly enjoyed our first big adventure!

After dinner we all met in the bar for a briefing where Stephen introduced us to the exped-

ition team and shared our plans for the days to come. Together we total 53 passengers – an

international gathering representing Australia, France, Japan, New Zealand, Russia, Switzerland,

United Kingdom, and the USA, along with 34 staff and crew.

Position: 23:15 hours

Latitude: 62° 40’ S

Longitude: 59° 18’ W

Course: 219°

Speed: 12.2 knots

Wind Speed: 31 knots

Wind Direction: SW

Barometer: 999.9 hPa & steady

Air Temp: 0°C

Sea Temp: 1°C

DAY 1 | Tuesday, 28 February 2017

PUNTA ARENAS, ChIlE & KING GEORGE ISlAND, ANTARCTICA

On waking, any bleary-eyes would have surely been short-lived. Beyond our portholes, the

magical icy world of Antarctica beckoned. Towering snow-capped pinnacles stretched to the

skies, separated only by massive rivers of glacial ice that flowed into the sea. Icebergs bobbed

about in the morning light – showing us that ice is indeed blue in hue.

As well as completing our final preparations for landing in Antarctica, we took time to drink in

the spectacular views as we cruised down the Gerlache Strait. With calm conditions, we could

easily see the blows of the humpback whales also cruising these waters, and were thrilled to

be joined by three curious individuals. It became a situation of “who is looking at whom” with

these gentle giants of the sea spy-hopping and rolling to eyeball the ship and the line-up of

excited humans on its outer decks.

After lunch we set off for our first activities at Cuverville Island. We could not have imagined

a more perfect Antarctic afternoon! Under bright blue skies and a warming sun we cruised

alongside sleepy humpbacks and visited snoozing Weddell and crabeater seals on their

floating beds of ice. A series of vast, sculpted icebergs captivated our imaginations, and

groups of porpoising penguins defied the reaction times of our photography skills and

camera shutters.

On shore, we met our first gentoo penguins. Now, relatively late in their summer breeding

season, these enigmatic little birds were scattered far and wide across the rocky beach going

about their penguin business – heading to and from the sea, preening their feathers, feeding

(or running from) their chicks, or sprawled out on the rocks asleep. Many of us sprawled out

in similar fashion to take in the show around us.

Meanwhile, the kayakers set off on their first paddle, circumnavigating the island and adding

some bright colour and scale to our photographs. They enjoyed some perfect paddling

conditions before joining us on shore. The snorkelers and divers also had their first ventures

into the watery world of Antarctica – the divers were delighted to see starfish and small

crustaceans in crystal clear water, while the snorkelers cavorted about with some playful fur

seals off the landing beach.

It was quite simply, a spectacular Antarctic day.




Location: Cuverville Island

Speed: at anchor

Wind Speed: 5 knots

Wind Direction: SW


Air Temp: 3°C

Sea Temp: 1°C

DAY 2 | Wednesday, 1 March 2017

GERlAChE STRAIT & CUvERvIllE ISlAND

When you get something as magnificent as a morning sail down the lemaire Channel, no

one seems to mind being woken up early. Stephen’s dulcet tones roused us a little before

06:00, and despite some of us still sporting our “bed hair” we were dressed and out on deck

with cameras in hand soon after. Only 600 metres wide, but with towering 1000-metre peaks

acting as sentry and plunging steeply to the sea, the lemaire Channel’s reputation of grandeur

and beauty is truly deserved.

having turned to starboard at the end of the channel, we were promptly faced with a maze of

huge icebergs blocking the intended path of Polar Pioneer into Salpetriere Bay. But ne’er fear,

we have Zodiacs and kayaks! It was not long before we had arrived at Port Charcot near Booth

Island. A landing allowed us to take in the spectacular views the penguins enjoy all summer,

as well as climb high to another good vantage point marked by a cairn – historic remains from

Jean-Baptiste Charcot’s 1903-1905 French Antarctic Expedition.

later, a cruise amongst an array of grounded icebergs in the bay topped off our morning.

With a beautiful soft, diffuse light the icy sculptures reflected their own extraordinary range

of blue hues. Others had decorative tinges of black and brown – patches of moraine picked

up from the sides or bottom of the valleys that the glacier had crept down, eventually giving

birth to the iceberg as it calved off the glacier front. We discovered also that ice can assume

all sorts of different textures. The surface of some icebergs was melting, and looked shiny

and translucent, others were dusted with powdery snow and looked like confectionary, while

some had huge sweeping smooth curves like the perfect ski slope.

Silky velvety crabeater seals snoozed together on ice floes – their pale bellies soaking up the

sun. Some opened up their eyes to gaze upon us before heading back to sleep, while others

joined us in the water. Popping their heads up to look at us, some got so close we could

almost smell their krill-infused breath.

After a short cruise down the Penola Strait, we leapt at the opportunity to get outside

once more at Petermann Island. Snorkelers and divers took to the water and enjoyed the

underwater landscape, while the kayakers toured the waters around the island. For the land-

lovers, heidi led a search for the Adélie penguins that reside on Petermann Island. Although

few in numbers at this time of year, they were admired by many – with their handsome black

and white plumage, and white eye-ring of constant surprise.




Location: Petermann Island

Speed: at anchor

Wind: calm Barometer: 995.9 hPa & steady

Air Temp: 4°C

Sea Temp: 1°C

DAY 3 | Thursday, 2 March 2017

lEMAIRE ChANNEl; PORT ChARCOT & PETERMANN ISlAND

DAY 4 | Friday, 3 March 2017

vERNADSKY STATION (ARGENTINE ISlANDS) & YAlOUR ISlANDSPosition: 21:00 hours



Course: 34°

Speed: 6.2 knots

Wind: calm Barometer: 1001.3 hPa & rising

Air Temp: 2°C

Sea Temp: 1°C

Although the day started with a low set of clouds obscuring the jagged peaks of the

adjacent mountain range, these vaporous curtains were soon drawn back to reveal a brilliant

sun. Under it’s rays, the snowy slopes appeared to be strewn with sparkling diamonds and

icebergs dazzled and twinkled in the waters around us. These icebergs are Mother Nature’s

perfect works of art. Born from massive glaciers, they spend their lives being carved and

sculpted by her winds, waves, tides and currents. They form towers and ramparts, arches

and windows, and every possible shape – capturing our imaginations with their raw beauty.

Replete with myriad textures and colours, they could very likely to be found in any museum of

modern art. On this day in Antarctica we were fortunate to see some fine examples of these

icy monuments, and many of us channelled our inner Ansel Adams as we photographed

them at every angle.

The morning visit to the Ukrainian station of vernadsky gave us an insight into modern

station life in the Antarctic. We had the opportunity to tour the station main laboratories and

building, as well as meet members of the station team within the small shop and Faraday

bar. Originally owned by the British (then called Faraday Station), the station was sold to the

Ukrainians for one British Pound (still displayed proudly on the bar) in 1996. It also has the

proud title of being the oldest operational station in the Antarctic Peninsula region, with

continuous meteorological records, which have been collected from 1947.

The narrow waterways around the station provided us with some interesting cruising,

snorkelling, diving and kayaking. The underwater world provided our snorkelers and divers

with some exciting finds – sponges, colourful starfish, sea spiders, and nudibranchs – in still,

crystal clear waters.

After a short motor over lunch we arrived at the Yalour Island group – our focus for the

afternoon’s activities. Groups of Adélie penguins stood about in the sun, with some

showing off their tobogganing skills – propelling themselves along on their bellies with

their feet (leaving distinctive trails in the snow). We took the opportunity to each find a quiet

spot on the island to drink in the vast, spectacular landscapes around us and contemplate

our Antarctic adventures so far.

It was definitely another day to celebrate, and so that’s exactly what we did. With silly hats

donned, and tasty glühwein in hand, we moved onto the stern deck for a barbeque party to

remember as we cruised slowly under the towering peaks of the lemaire Channel and the

orange glow of the setting sun. A big thank you to Chefs Allan and Bert for their scrumptious

feast!




Course: 306°

Speed: 12.5 knots

Wind Speed: 15 knots

Wind Direction: E

Barometer: 1007.9 hPa & rising

Air Temp: -2°C

Sea Temp: 1°C

As the ship slumbered, the day began early for the kayakers as they dipped their paddles into

the icy waters of the Peltier Channel. Delighted by the mirror-like reflections of majestic snow

capped peaks, they headed out for their longest paddle of the trip, a mighty 11.4 kilometres.

On board, the bright red lines of paint against the dark huts of the old British “Base A” or

Bransfield house caught our eye across the grey waters of Port lockroy to Goudier Island.

Fat gentoo penguin chicks greeted us in various stages of their first moult in preparation for

the coming winter. We were acknowledged with either nonchalance or intense interest as

we picked our way through many slumbering forms, stepping carefully over slippery rocks

streaked in pungent artful squirts of pink and white guano, like an interactive modern art

exhibit. Snowy white sheathbills stood surveying the scene – first balancing on one foot, then

the other. Nearby, two mottled sheathbill fledglings ventured in and out from their safe place

under the wooden verandah. Inside Bransfield house, postcards were written home to loved

ones and left for delivery in the Antarctic spring. We wrote of fantastically large icebergs,

breath-taking whale encounters and brisk Zodiac cruises beneath mountains frosted with

clouds. Meanwhile the lounge sat those scribbling their name in the visitor’s book, joining

the list of intrepid polar voyagers. Elsewhere in the museum we were treated to a true 1950s

time capsule. We imagined what life might have been like living in such a remote place, with

hard scientific work to complete and still harder work to do in the kitchen (especially given

the limited and somewhat uninspiring ingredients with which to concoct a meal). Seal brain

omelette, anyone?

Over at Jougla Point the rocks were mobbed with moulting gentoos, the air alive with lost

feathers and eager skuas. The shallow waters were blocked by grease ice, snapping and

crackling as we nosed our Zodiacs around. We happily cruised around spying elegant blue-

eyed shags serenely perched in profile, observing our passing with casual curiosity. Sharp

eyes spotted a lone chinstrap penguin caught south for its moult. Below the icy surface

starfish coloured the depths. Meanwhile a playful leopard seal scooted enthusiastically around

the divers and snorkelers in their Zodiacs. Zipping gracefully from boat to boat, it took great

interest in our activities.

Neko harbour was our playground for the afternoon, rewarding us a first continental landing.

hordes of gentoo penguin chicks greeted us, with almost every one adopting a human for

their very own. The luminescent blues of the nearby glacier impressed us all, and we stared

hard at the precariously balanced turrets of ice – as if our steady gaze would encourage one

to fall. Anticipation filled the air, yet it was only a small calving and rumbles and grumbles we

received.

The kayakers proved to be true Antarctic paddlers as they battled against a strong wind and

short chop to get to land… luck was with them upon return to the ship.

DAY 5 | Saturday, 4 March 2017

PORT lOCKROY & NEKO hARBOUR

In what seemed to be an atypical situation for the South Shetland Islands (at least to the

expedition staff), we woke to a glassy calm sea, clear skies and the absence of any wind. We

were offered yet another day in stark contrast to our arrival in this same area a mere five days

ago. This editor therefore asserts that it is because we paid our “dues” to the weather gods at

that time, our following Antarctic days have been blessed with perfect conditions.

The rocky landscape of hannah Point on livingston Island beckoned us ashore in the morn-

ing. hordes of chinstrap penguins stood about patiently – not only waiting for their annual

moult to finish, but also towards the delighted paparazzi that quietly moved past them in

single file. The few macaroni penguins that tried their best to blend in with the feathery

montage of black and white prompted additional squeals of joy with their flamboyant

yellow crests flopping about their faces as they preened and posed. As we progressed towards

the main beach of Walker Bay, our noses and ears became attuned to new sensations…

a wretched organic odour, and loud echoes of belching, farting, barking elephant seals.

These enormous blubber slugs lay tightly together in different muddy wallows using each

other’s rotund physiques as convenient and cushiony head rests.

The treasures of Whaler’s Bay gave us a final outing in Antarctica to remember. The remains

of the old hektor whaling station, and later British base, stood derelict and damaged from

previous mud and ash flows. A steaming beach and red-hot waters only inches below the

sandy shallows were testament to the island’s volcanic heart. And what seemed initially to

be numerous small boulders strewn across the landscape to the unsuspecting beachcomber

were soon revealed to possess both fur and teeth in the form of snoozing fur seals. After

scaling Ronald hill and/or scrambling up to Neptune’s Window, we reluctantly returned to

the mother ship. A perfect piece of navigation saw the Polar Pioneer slip easily through the

narrow entrance of “Neptune’s Bellows” and back out into the open waters of the Bransfield

Strait.

By the time we get around to reading these words – perhaps even only once we are home

in our everyday lives – I wonder whether we will remember the entire experience that is

Antarctica. To experience Antarctica – with it’s sounds, smells, sights and feelings – is to

be completely engulfed by it. It is something much bigger than all of us, and one can only

attempt to understand it by visiting it. It is the epitome of “you have to be there to experience

it”. It is so much more than a photograph. It is so much more than words can aptly describe.

Adjectives and superlatives are only a mere hint at the sensorial journey one has within this

last great, icy wilderness.




Course: 192°

Speed: 11.7 knots

Wind Speed: 8 knots

Wind Direction: NW


Air Temp: 2°C

Sea Temp: 1°C

DAY 6 | Sunday, 5 March 2017

hANNAh POINT & WhAlER’S BAY (DECEPTION ISlAND)

In a welcome continuation of our good luck, our day was spent on a Drake lake. Instead

of wild winds and large seas that induce the dreaded mal de mer, most of us ended up

having to battle with a gentle, sleep-inducing rocking-reminiscent of our days in the cradle.

In between bouts of activity for feeding, learning and gazing out to sea, the companionways

fell eerily silent. Certainly, it was not unusual to see our fellow shipmates emerge from their

cabins with distinct impressions of pillowslips on their faces.

For those that could stay awake in the lecture room, our day at sea also provided some

opportunities for education. heidi took the morning slot with her presentation on seabirds of

the Southern Ocean. Armed with our new knowledge and enthusiasm, some of us headed

straight back up to the bridge to see if we could spy some of the albatross and petrel species

that inhabit this part of the world. Although the lack of wind also meant a shortage of these

wind-loving avian friends, keen bridge-goers were rewarded with a rare Drake sighting of two

rockhopper penguins!

later, liz shared her love of ice in her presentation, “Bergs, Brash, Frazil and Floe”. Armed with

new ways to interpret the life events of the iceberg sculptures we had seen, some ventured

off to review their own photographs. Could we see vertical ice grooves eroded by newly

released air bubbles underwater; successive ridges from tide and water lines; or perhaps

cupules formed from the current forced into miniature eddies alongside the ice?

Just before happy hour, Martin gave us a short introduction into his role in the making of the

BBC’s “Operation Iceberg” before watching episode one. Although it was filmed in Arctic, the

science behind the northern glaciers and icebergs remains true for those in the south. (We

also found out how he got that scar above his eye).

later in the evening we had neared the Antarctic Convergence or Polar Front. The

convergence is a natural boundary where the cold, dense Antarctic surface water dives

beneath the relatively warmer subantarctic surface water. This creates an area of upwelling

and nutrient availability, and is an important biological phenomenon that influences the

distribution of plankton, fish, and birds.

DAY 7 | Monday, 6 March 2017

DRAKE PASSAGEPosition: 19:15 hours



Course: 339°

Speed: 12.1 knots


Air Temp: 5°C

Sea Temp: 3°C

how many people can say that they started their day by standing in the sunshine on the

deck of a ship looking across at Cape horn? It was a moment that saw many of us pinching

ourselves lest we believe we were in a dream. having being given permission by the Chilean

authorities to approach within 3 nautical miles, we were able to clearly make out the rocky

cliffs and surrounding rocky waters of this notorious piece of the maritime world. We paused

to reflect on the number of explorers and sailors that have taken the challenge of these seas

to “round the horn”; some losing their lives in the effort.

Although this final day at sea involved thoughts of onwards travel and packing of bags, we

were also able to enjoy some wildlife watching from the outer decks and bridge. A variety

of seabirds flew about the ship, including numerous black-browed albatross – their white

plumage glowing under the bright sky. Magellanic penguins swam about the ship as we

dropped our anchor in the Beagle Channel, taking our number of penguin species spotted

to a total of six!

In a magnificent show of the cetacean variety, we were very excited to come across a group

of at least thirty sei whales. Although they were busy with a typical summer feeding “frenzy”,

we were able to get good views of their long dark grey backs and hooked dorsal fins as they

surfaced to breathe. With only a very slight breeze their watery blows appeared metres above

the water, looking all the while like a perfectly orchestrated series of puffs from multiple

underwater steam train.

later in the day, we came together to toast our fantastic voyage and our equally fantastic

Captain and his crew. In complete contrast to our welcome drinks where we first came

together as a group of strangers, the bar was filled with the happy chatter of new friends and

fellow expeditioners that have shared a very special Antarctic adventure. May the memories

live long and bright!




Course: 302°

Speed: 6 knots


Air Temp: 9°C

Sea Temp: 5°C

DAY 8 | Tuesday, 7 March 2017

DRAKE PASSAGE & BEAGlE ChANNEl

POEM INSCRIBED ON ThE CAPE hORN AlBATROSS MONUMENT written by Sara vial

I am the albatross that waits for you at the end of the earth. I am the forgotten soul of the dead sailors

who crossed Cape horn from all the seas of the world.

But they did not die in the furious waves.

Today they fly in my wings to eternity

in the last trough of the Antarctic winds.




Location: Ushuaia

Speed: in port

Wind: calm Barometer: 1013.3 hPa & rising

Air Temp: 8°C

Sea Temp: 5°C

DAY 9 | Wednesday, 8 March 2017

UShUAIA, ARGENTINA

ANTARCTICA BEING

Piercing sunrays, clear blue sky White wonderland reflected in still water

Towering mountains, flowing glaciers Sculptured icebergs, turquoise below

Three stooges penguins, squawking skuas Silky crabeater seals lounging, playing

Majestic topography, rapidly changing skies Soft pink post sunset

Peace, tranquillity, calm, contentment Antarctica

—Jeanette Gentle

MEMORIES OF ANTARCTICA

by Alison Bell

DAY 1:

Rolling and roiling

Don’t want to be here!

DAY 2:

Wow, is that a humpback, wait 2, 3, more!

Icebergs with deep blue streaks, rolling and

splitting, noise and waves.

Smells of penguin rookeries;

Penguin highways, well-travelled.

Inquisitive penguins, moulting and calling for

food.

Silence.

Cold.

Sparkling sun on pristine waters.

Gentoo penguins zooming through the

water, leaping and jumping.

Pink snow from algal growth.

Clear deep water.

Seals tussling, playing, diving and jousting.

Dry noses, cracking lips,

laughter and joy.

Washing of boots, gearing up and down for

wild Zodiac rides.

The beautiful sparkling sea and wild untamed

nature from the Captain’s bridge.

Snorkelers corralled by playing seals;

Sitting on the bridge in the dying light

transforming icebergs into brilliant white,

stark against the sea;

Tinging the mountains with aching pink,

teasing the darkening sky.

DAY 3:

Early morning on deck through icebergs in

the lemaire Channel.

Sun kissing stark white peaks;

Seals cavorting amongst the ice.

Ship’s hull scraping and gliding through

sheets of ice and broken icebergs;

Minke whales slicing through the water.

A lone seal basking on a berg;

Silent pink tinged beauty.

Oh the cold!

Dawn awakening the landscape, cold, blue,

white and austere.

Cracking of ice, mother penguins calling to

feed chicks,

Chicks crying for food.

Big brown skuas among the rookeries,

waiting to snatch.

Icebergs, gigantic, immense, blue and white,

Ready to topple and roll to a new rest.

Slithers of seals on bergy bits, agile in the

water and clashing clumsily on the ice as they

launch themselves up from the sea.

Slinky minke whales just revealing their

presence;

Antarctic terns flying and skimming, their call

echoing in the silence.

Brash, growler, bergy bits and icebergs, all

growing in stature with their names.

Adelie penguins, chunky, black and white

hidden among the squawking gentoo.

Gentoo chicks looking for food, inquisitive of

these humans intruding upon their peace.

harsh cracks and crashes from the glaciers

opposite – the signal for new icebergs, which

then tilt, reform and reframe;

Their surfaces moulded by air bubbles –

pockmarked, grooved and blue; ice aeons old

coated in a salty tang.

Sunset over Antarctica – a peaceful place,

refuge from the busyness of our

technological age.

Skies blue, purple, pink and green, defying

our minds with the vastness of the horizon.

Mountains in silhouette against a darkening

sharp blue sky, snow crisp and starkly white.

Seals rolling and diving; penguins on their

journeys for yet more krill – enveloped by the

purple sea as the sun says its farewells.

Clinging to these images, imprinting them

as a ward against the tangles of life beyond

this place.

DAY 4:

Chilling cold wind on faces while skipping

through the water in throbbing zodiacs.

Scientists absorbed, immersed and alone in

this wild place with Gentoo for company;

Moses, lichen clinging to sun facing rocks

glowing green, dripping water droplets,

Cushions for brown skuas nesting, squawking

at these huddled humans in their noisy

boats.

historic huts, preserved and remembering

harsher times in this southern land.

The land, claimed by nature where we are

merely intrusions, deluded by our own

human importance.

Cracking of bergs, growlers and brash in the

deep channel, constantly evolving, reshaping

and adding to this vast ocean.

Adelie penguins skiing up and down hill on

pearlescent bellies, using wings as guides

and feet for thrust!

BBQ in Antarctica? Yes, grooving to the B52s

with a backdrop of pink and gold on sheer

mountains in the lemaire Channel …a

humpback at our tail and seals on the bow.

heaven, unbelievable heaven – how to relate

this miracle of nature in all its senses?

Impossible yet imperative – it must stay

protected, pristine and hallowed.

DAY 5:

Dawn breaks on a cloudy sky, landscape

charcoal grey, blue and white.

lockroy station standing sentinel to human

efforts to measure and understand.

Baby sheathbill tottering among the

moulting Gentoo guarding this historic site.

leopard seal puts pay to diving and

snorkelling – toothy snip ending the hum of

the Mawson Zodiac.

Steps on the Antarctic continent are met with

more inquisitive gentoo chicks, nipping at

ankles,

Fascinated by these large intruders – food,

friend or foe?

Majestic snow engorged glacier ready to

calve, signals its intent, yet keeps us in

suspense.

horizons of snow covered mountains, misted

in cloud and blowing snow.

The brooding landscape hypnotic from the

bridge, as the light dwindles and fades.

DAY 6:

Day is calm and skies are kind.

Elusive macaroni penguins secrete

themselves amongst the cheeky chinstraps,

who argue and jostle.

Enormities of elephant seals sighing, heaving

and growling,

Reveal red cavernous mouths and plum

seared eyes.

Giant petrel walking thunderbird style,

ungainly among the penguins.

Bones, once creatures of the deep assembled

as in life on the volcanic sand;

Remnants of human intervention – sawn

whale bone, timbers strewn by the elements.

leafy fossils, reminder of the origins of this

sacred place.

Fin whales reveal their presence in the

darkened waters tinged with blue.

Deception Island looms, brutally different

from its neighbours.

Steaming shoreline, industrial relics standing

testament to bloody slaughter;

Difficult times for man and whale.

Slumbering seals reclaim the black sands and

abandoned boats;

While hillocks of whale carcasses lie partly

buried and lonely graves stand to attention.

Unexpected starfish and krill scattered on the

beach,

As snowflakes fall silently on this last day in

Antarctica.

DAY 7:

The dreaded Drake, pitching and yawing,

Yet not at its worst.

Watching for the fabled albatross,

Coleridge’s poetry underlining the search.

1. Punta Arenas, Chile2. Frei Station, King George Island3. Cuverville Island4. Lemaire Channel (SC)5. Port Charcot6. Petermann Island7. Vernadsky Station8. Yalour Islands9. Port Lockroy10. Neumayer Channel (SC)11. Neko Harbour12. Hannah Point, Livingston Island13. Whaler’s Bay, Deception Island14. Ushuaia, Argentina

ANTArCTIC PeNINSULA28 Febuary – 8 March 2017

ToTAL DISTANCe: 1157.7 NAUTICAL MILeSFUrTHeST SoUTH: 65°18.27’S; 64°17.20’W –

75.5 NM FroM THe ANTArCTIC CIrCLe

2

1

3

8

4

765

9 11

10

13

12

14

Elephant Island

King George Island

To Ushuaia

From Punta Arenas

Robert IslandGreenwich Islandlivingston Island

Snow Island

Smith Island

low Island

DeceptionIsland

TrinityIsland

BrANSFIeLD STrAIT

Brabant Island

Anvers Island

Nelson Island

ClarenceIsland

Snowhill Island

James Ross

Island

Dundee Island

Joinville Island

D‘Urville Island

GibbsIsland

WeDDeLL SeA

Seymour Island

KAYAKING GUIDe: Al Bakker & Brigitte locher Bakker

KAYAKerS:Peter Buckingham Anne harris Kate holloway vivian McFeeters

Kerith Buckingham Warwick hassan Julia Kramer

Robert halfpenny Guy holloway Russell MacDonald

DAY 1 & 2: AT SEA

DAY 3: CUvERvIllE ISlAND – Distance: 8.1 km

The “wow” factor was high on our introductory paddle as we were greeted with calm seas

and sunny skies. A real treat as we circumnavigated Cuverville Island, taking in all the penguin

antics displayed on our journey. Fur seals, a Weddell seal, crab eater seals on ice floes, and

fantastic sculptured icebergs.

DAY 4: PORT ChARCOT – Distance: 10.5 km

Sunny skies again and glassy conditions, “a Weddell seal performance” as two younger

seals played around an iceberg checking our reactions with wide eyes and smiles. We then

meandered through an ice maze of spires, castles, humps and arches. We slowly made

our way through to a larger island with an open snowfield to traipse across. From a higher

vantage point we could look out on the surrounding ice towers with a hot chocolate. As the

tide dropped it became a guessing game as to which narrow rocky channel finished with a

dead end as we worked our way back to the ship.

PETERMAN ISlAND – Distance: 7.4 km

The calm conditions continued but the sky had a few ominous lenticular clouds on the

horizon. As we circumnavigated the island there was a lumpy swell on the outside. Good

training for vivian in the single kayak! We crept slowly by numerous fur seals practising their

modelling poses as shags flew overhead. A fantastic display of icy towers and castles dotted

the horizon as we made our way around. Completely surrounded by emptiness amidst an

icy landscape made for a humbling and inspiring afternoon. On our final stretch we found a

secret harbour sheltered by icebergs for a lovely hello to a busy gentoo colony.

DAY 5: vERNANDSKY STATION – Distance: 8.2 km

A few masts on shore gave us a clue to our paddling direction in this maze of islands. We

cruised past a snow slope covered in cavorting fur seals and then along a rocky shoreline with

many nooks and crannies. We reached a metal marker on the outside of “Cornice Channel”

where a narrow inlet separates two islands only 30 metres apart. Just inside the protected bay

was Wordie house and time for a quick walk through history (and hot chocolate!) We spied

a lazing Weddell seal and paddled through a delightful glassy smooth channel filled with

an array of ice shapes, before finally landing at vernandsky station. After a very informative

tour and chat with the scientists we returned to the ship completing a circumnavigation of

the island.

YAlOUR ISlANDS – Distance: 7.9 km

The ship stopped closer to the Argentine Islands than the Yalours so we opted to explore this

barrier of islands blocking the outer swells. Wildlife was scarce but a convoluted connection

of rocky channels and ice mazes made for an exciting paddle. The slow outside swell made

itself felt as we flirted along the exposed coast darting between islands and ice floes.

DAY 6: PElTIER ChANNEl & PORT lOCKROY – Distance: 11.4 km

Shades of pink in the early morning sky (0500 am) encouraged us to take advantage of an “early

morning” paddle. Wake up at 5:30 am and off the ship 06:10 with bleary eyes. But what a day!

As the ship drifted mid-channel we launched and paddled towards a gentoo colony visible

in the distance. Seldom visited, this protected rocky bay was a lovely wakeup with penguin

chicks scurrying around doing their business – chasing food. There was a distinctive nip to

the air so it soon became time to continue our exploration down the Peltier Channel. With

mountains towering above on both sides we explored several glacial bays before landing on

a small island for a second breakfast of brie and treats. With 360-degree views we had prime

viewing for a great calving directly across from us. We continued on down to what appeared

to be a dead end before turning 90 degrees and viewing Polar Pioneer in the distance. We

finished this lovely morning outing with a short visit to Port lockroy and the museum.

NEKO hARBOUR – Distance: 2 km

Katabatic winds dropped off the glaciers for our chilliest and windiest paddle yet. A landing

on the continent was our plan but it was a headwind all the way. Tantalising close but so far!

Slowly we made our way to shore only to have a surprise capsize as our star single paddler

caught her bow on the rocks. Brrr…

DAY 7: WhAlERS BAY – Distance: 7 km

A full contingent of paddlers came out for a fantastic visit to this unique Antarctic geological

masterpiece – a wonderful way to wrap up a great week of kayaking in Antarctica. After

transiting Neptune’s Bellows on our trusty ship we took advantage of perfectly calm

conditions to paddle out of the caldera to the outside of Deception Island. Close up views of

packed volcanic material now formed in castle and turret shapes in reddish hues and browns

provided a nice contrast from the black and white landscape inside the bay. We cruised past

a few fur seals protecting their little rocks and explored a chain of caves each with their own

distinctive rumble as the small surge crashed into the back corners of a natural harmonic

chamber. Our destination was a small black sand beach under Neptune’s Window. Alas the

fur seals thought it was as good hideout too! More than thirty fur seals spread out along the

beach along with a Weddell seals so we stopped to say hello and continued on navigating

through a few towering stacks. Then it was time to return to the inner bay for a final “hot

chocolate” in brisk conditions, a quick explore on shore and the last paddle to the ship. A big

thanks to everyone helping on the clean up as we quickly washed things in preparation for

heading out to the Drake Passage. A great week of kayaking in near perfect weather!

DISTANCe PADDLeD: 62.5 KILoMeTreS IN 8 PADDLeS

KAYAKING lOG BY Al BAKKER

ANTARCTICA PADDlE

by Julia Kramer

The crushing sound escapes as I dip the paddle into the ink blue water layered with

a fine line of ice. We navigate through ice floes and glaciers – one with candied blue

ribbons, another pock-marked from the wind glistening like the sheen of a Gentoo’s

belly against the sun.

The wind dies, and with no clouds in the sky, I can see the large, round rocks beneath

us. Right stroke – pulling forward to meet the catch, we point our nose toward the

bend in the channel. Greeting fur seals amongst the shore, one slides into the sea,

curiously circling our boats. Then, with one swift, strong push, it launches itself from

the water – meeting our gaze with his wet, puppy eyes.

left stroke – pulling forward, we spot a spout – one, then another near the horizon.

leaning into our stroke, steading each limb, we push onward, reaching for a closer look.

Minke Whales – each fin bobbing in the glass water before us.

A sound like thunder striking, we turn our gaze as a large shelf of the glacier calves.

Thrashing sheets of ice and dusty snow plunge into the channel, creating a crescendo

of waves in the distance.

Paddles resting now, letting the gentle swell guide us, we are encapsulated by the

theatre of Antarctica. She surrounds us with her endless shades and contours of ice-

bergs. her deepening blue seas, and majesty of wildlife. The slow hum of silence is our

backdrop to the orchestra of gulls and petrels above our heads.

As my paddle dips one last time into the ice folds, I close my eyes and take in a deep,

fresh breath of air. Glorious, rich, mysterious Antarctica, you’ve changed us all.

DIVe MASTer: Martin McGrath

DIVe ASSISTANT: Andrew Palma

DIVerS: Eric Koehler Thomas Mercier

SNorKeLerS: Melissa O’Brien Kathleen O’Connor

DAY 1 & 2: AT SEA

DAY 3: CUvERvIllE ISlAND

The sun glittered on the sea and ice alike as we left Polar Pioneer for Cuverville on a perfect

day for our check-out dive. The Zodiacs parted as the snorkelers made for the shore and

the divers cruised around the headland in search of some slightly deeper water. We were

rewarded with crystal clear visibility to test all the equipment. The divers slipped into the

water on the sunlit afternoon for an excellent dive, finding sea stars, brittle stars and isopods

amongst the kelp on the sun-dappled bottom.

The snorkelers first cruised to some crabeater seals on a small iceberg, then caught up to the

other Zodiacs to get up close with a pair of humpback whales in front of the glacier. They

were treated to a hunting leopard seal that had made a catch in the middle of the bay, before

leaving the area for the landing. Our snorkelers spent some time on land before walking in

from the shore for the check-out swim and their first foray into Antarctic waters. They then

quickly made their way to the far end of the beach where they were joined in the water by

four juvenile fur seals that were very willing to come play and pose for some great pictures

and video footage. Some 40 minutes flew by with our snorkelers, emerging from the water a

little chilled but beaming from ear to ear. What a great first day!

DAY 4: PORT ChARCOT

Our snorkelers decided to take the morning off to enjoy the trek to the top of the ridge and

the picturesque scenery. Their appetites whetted from the previous day, our divers prepared

their kit for an iceberg dive in Port Charcot. We found a suitable berg close to the landing site,

and began to kit up to the curious attention of the local crabeater seal population. visibility

was great and we could peer down the sides of the iceberg as it disappeared into the depths.

Our divers kitted up and dropped over the side holding at a depth of 13m. Two-thirds into

their circumnavigation, they were shadowed by two curious crabeater seals which quickly

joined them up close and personal to play and pose for some great underwater footage. The

real action began minutes after our divers had exited the water into the Zodiac. A swarm of

crabeaters simultaneously emerged from beneath the iceberg to surround our Zodiac, which

caused great excitement. Their curiosity peaked, heads began to pop out of the water on

all sides, inches from us. We were in the middle of a krill patch. Penguins off the bow, minke

whale off the port side…a sensory overload. What a morning!

PETERMANN ISlAND

The afternoon found us off Petermann Island, with the sun well on it’s way, we struggled into

dry suits and headed off towards the channels at the west of the island. The channel was

relatively ice free so we cruised around to the right of the channel where a small embayment

had trapped and grounded several icebergs. The divers had the opportunity to see how the

life on the floor of the ocean deals with the dramatic effect of thousands of tonnes of ice

grinding over it with the tide. The snorkelers enjoyed a brief landing at Petermann before

seeking out the engravings made by Charcot’s crew on the other side of the small bay. We

then cruised to the west end of the island where we found an iceberg in a small cove just in

front of some fur seals. The fur seals watched from the shore as our snorkelers enjoyed their

first swim around an iceberg in Antarctica.

DAY 5: vERNADSKY STATION

We cruised along the channel in (yet again) bright sunlight, with no wind and spectacular

visibility to the oceans bottom. We landed at the station first to have a tour and chat with

Dimitri, a diver at the station. After our conversation, we decided to head for Indicator Island,

across from the main channel. The visibility was truly amazing with the divers discovering

huge sea stars and echinoderms amongst the sunlit depths. Our snorkelers dropped over the

side into a shallow bay on the western side of Indicator Island. With bright blue sky, a warm

sun warm and crystal clear visibility, this could be mistaken for the tropics. Our snorkelers

must have thought so as they stayed in the chilled waters for almost an hour exploring the

bright yellow starfish among other small and shelled marine life.

YAlOUR ISlANDS

The small rocky island group continued to bask in the warm sun as we kitted up to dive the

ice-strewn channel opposite the landing area. This morning’s visibility was still in evidence as

they descended toward the rocky bottom. The divers circumnavigated a berg in the channel’s

clear water and moved alongside the berg to study the fantastic shapes of this castle in the

sea. Our snorkelers enjoyed an hour-long landing before cruising to an iceberg close to the

entrance to the channel to pose for photos. They swam in the shallows looking for marine life

on the bottom and again climbing onto some small ice.

DAY 6: PORT lOCKROY

After our visit to the station we found ourselves in the company of an aggressive female

leopard seal. She unfortunately managed to hole the Zodiac as we left the area. So the divers

and snorkelers aborted the activities, albeit with adrenalin coursing through them from the

magnificent display of power by this wonderful animal.

NEKO hARBOUR

A brief landing on continental Antarctica was followed by the obligatory photo opportunity

on a large flat berg not far from the landing site. Snorkelers then kitted up and circumnavigated

the iceberg. The clear visibility provided the opportunity to capture some great colours under

the water.

DIvE & SNORKEl lOG BY MARTIN MCGRATh AND ANDREW PAlMA

DAY 7: hANNAh POINT

We headed for shore in the gentle swell as our first stop on hannah Point, to see some

elephant seals in a wallow on the beach. We also looked at a collection of fossils left amongst

the rocks at the back of the beach. Then it was back to the Zodiac and off to some offshore

rocks. The divers went over the side in disappointing visibility on their first South Shetland

dive, but observed thousands upon thousands of salps and worms in the water column. Our

snorkelers returned to the beach having found no suitable site.

WhAlERS BAY, DECEPTION ISlAND

Anticipation ran high as we turned Polar Pioneer towards Neptune’s Bellows, the semi-hidden

entry to Deception Island’s hidden interior. With hardly a breath of wind, and great visibility,

the divers and snorkelers first walked amongst the history of this epic sight. Then we were into

the Zodiacs and speeding through the clear waters to one of the arms of the caldera. Over

the side the divers dropped into the calm waters, finding brittle star clad whale skeletons, still

being fed upon after more than 100 years!

The snorkelers cruised above them and amongst the large boulders that scattered the shore,

proving tougher than the divers by staying in the water even longer than them! We toasted a

great end to a great trip with some extra special hot chocolate.

BIRD SPECIES lOGBIRD SPECIES FEBRUARY/MARCh

28 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Gentoo penguin x x x x x x

Chinstrap penguin x x x x

Adélie penguin x x x

Macaroni penguin x

Rockhopper penguin x x

Magellanic penguin x

Wandering albatross x

Southern Royal albatross x

Black-browed albatross x x x

Grey-headed albatross x x

Southern giant petrel x x x x x x

Northern giant petrel x

White-chinned petrel x

Cape petrel x x x

Snow petrel x

Soft-plumaged petrel x

Antarctic prion x

Wilson's storm-petrel x x x x x x x

Black-bellied storm-petrel x

Southern fulmar x

Sooty shearwater x

Great shearwater x

Imperial cormorant x

Antarctic cormorant x x x x x x

Snowy sheathbill x x x

Subantarctic skua x x x x

South polar skua x x x x

Chilean skua x

Kelp gull x x x x x x

Antarctic tern x x x x x x

South American tern x

Southern giant petrel chick Southern giant petrel

Brown skua

Antarctic tern Southern Royal albatross

Cape petrel.

Chinstreap and macaroni penguin

Snowy sheathbill

Adelié penguin

Chinstrap penguinGentoo penguin

Macaroni penguin

Antarctic cormorant

SKETChES from Maggie Aird

Fur seals

Gentoo penguin and chick

Crabeater seal

Humpback whales

Crabeater seal

Fur seals

Weddell seal

Gentoo penguin and chick

MAMMAl SPECIES lOG

Humpback whale

MAMMAl SPECIES FEBRUARY/MARCh28 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Antarctic fur seal x x x x

Southern sealion x

Southern elephant seal x

Crabeater seal x x x

Weddell seal x x x

leopard seal x x x

Minke whale x x

Sei whale x

Fin whale x

humpback whale x x

Unidentified whale x

Peale's dolphin x

Dusky dolphin x

Dusky dolphin

Antarctic minke whale

Fin whale

Crabeater seal

Dusky dolphin

Antarctic minke whale Southern elephant seals

Humpback whale Humpback whale

ExpEditionErsPeter Abraham

Maggie Aird

Brian Allen

Marie-Claude Armand

Dave Atchason

Alison Bell

Alain Bernigaud

Peter Buckingham

Kerith Buckingham

Casey Carter

Tom Carter

lynne Doolan

Robert Edgar

Paul Fitzpatrick

Jenny Fitzpatrick

Jeanette Gentle

Russell Gentle

Robyn Gottschalk

Robert halfpenny

Anne harris

Warwick hassan

Guy holloway

Kate holloway

Dave Joyner

Mike Kehl

Eric Koehler

Julia Kramer

Bob lenton

Russell MacDonald

Ursula Mattson

Richard Mattson

vivian McFeeters

Thomas Mercier

Kseniia Mishchenko

Michele Morgan

Allan Morgan

Phaedra Morgan

Geoff Nixon

Melissa O’Brien

Kathleen O’Connor

Florence Ong

Christiane Truffaut Riccobono

Judi Russell

Trevor Schwarz

linda Simon

Ross Simon

Alain Truffaut

Michelle vargo

Carol vargo

Richard vargo

Faye Walker

Mike Woodard

Renia Woodard

PHOTO CREDITS

Paper made from 100% recycled material.

ExPEDITION TEAMMaggie Aird

Stephen Anstee

Al Bakker

Alison Bell

Robert Edgar

Robyn Gottschalk

Anne harris

Dave Joyner

Mike Kehl

Eric Koehler

heidi Krajewsky

Julia Kramer

Brigitte locher Bakker

vivian McFeeters

Martin McGrath

Thomas Mercier

Kseniia Mishchenko

Allan Morgan

Phaedra Morgan

Andrew Palma

liz Pope

Trevor Schwarz

Anna Taylor

Michelle vargo

Richard vargo

Faye Walker

voyage log compiled by liz Pope

POlAR PIONEER CREWExpedition leader: Stephen Anstee

Assistant Expedition leader: liz Pope

Trainee AEl: Anna Taylor

hotel Manager: Justine Bornholdt

Naturalist: heidi Krajewsky

Doctor: Judy Braga

head Chef: Allan Estoque

Sous Chef: Albert Cruz

Kayaking Guide: Al Bakker

Kayaking Assistant: Brigitte locher Bakker

Waterproof Dive Master: Martin McGrath

Waterproof Snorkeling Master: Andrew Palma

head Stewardess: Natalia Pustovalova

Stewardess: Alona Usatenko

Daria Belova

Kristina Afanaseva

Margarita Nikitenko

Olga Markhilenok

Russian Crew Chef: Petr Pustovalov

Trainee: Anton Rodionov

Captain: Aleksandr Evgenov

Chief Mate: Bogdan Shmalko

2nd Mate: Sergei Abramov

Maxim Makarovskiy

Radio Operator: Maxim Chilikin

Chief Engineer: Sergei vorobev

2nd Engineer: Denis Strelkov

3rd Engineer: Artur Ropotov

4th Engineer: Yurii horobets

Electrical Engineer: viacheslav Deviatkin

Boatswain: Sergei Khynku

Able Seaman: valerii Riabtcev

Aleksandr Kiselev

Motorman: Aleksei Okunkov

www.auroraexpeditions.com.au

Our other destinations include: Patagonia, Russian Coast & Papua New Guinea.

Adventure With UsIntimate, educational, small group voyages to some of the world’s wildest and most remote destinations, aboard quality expedition vessels.

european ArcticPolar bears roam pack ice for seals, walrus and whales. Deep fjords and towering icebergs meet colourful tundra and fossil-rich plains.

Wild ScotlandAbandoned castles, exquisite abbeys, stone age villages and haunting Neolithic relics. Breeding seals and Europe’s largest seabird colonies.

ecuador & GalápagosAmazon’s rainforest tribes and sacred cultures, Andean volcanoes and shorelines of marine iguanas, giant tortoises and sea lions.

Kimberley CoastAustralia’s wildest frontier boasts terracotta cliffs andancient rock paintings. Island hop in search of turtles,crocodiles and whales.

Antarctic Peninsula - Aurora Expeditions · On waking, any bleary-eyes would have surely been...

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Transcript of Antarctic Peninsula - Aurora Expeditions · On waking, any bleary-eyes would have surely been...