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Introduction
ClothingMSc. Pavla Vozkov
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Apparel Clothing industry follow textile industry closely
Need special organisation
Automatisation of some operations
Ready-made (mass-customized)
x made-to-measure (tailored) clothes
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Clothing products: Upper clothes, underwear, accessories Clothing materials: All textile and non-textile materials
used for clothes construction
Clothing materials: fabrics, bits and pieces (textile,technical)
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What satisfy consumers needs Producer easy production, economical production
Consumer aestetics, price, value, comfort, durability,care, functional use
Prize classification Low-end prize is the primary
point of competition, less quality- Moderate low prize, better quality
- Better style and fit, smaller proportion of market
- Designer high style, quality, prize, known name
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Process analysis Complexproduction processSum oftechnological andoperationalprocesses duringwhich rise clothingproduct
Main Auxiliary
Secondary
processes Management withthe material andcomplete products
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Technical preparation of production
CPP documentation for cutting process
TPP documentation for production phases
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Designing
Style description brand, selling period, target group,selling strategy, fashion line
Sizing and fitting size standards, body proportions,age, gender, body types, size ranges
Material selection material characteristic properties,drapability, count, different right and wrong sides,weight, structural design, colour, finishes
Special needs special use, special applications, needs
of special target group Possibilities of construction during processing
Components assembly peaces completing
Final assembly, style presentation
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Production planning
Basic style construction, pattern
making Shape modification according to
model picture, structuring andsegmentation
Gradeing fitting for variousstandartized sizes
CIM construction integratedmanufacturing
CAD, CAE, CAP, CAM, CAQ
(computer aided design,
engineering, planning,manufacturing, quality)
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Technical drawing
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Cutting process
Acceptance and sorting of obtained materials - Materialspreading - Cutting of designed parts - Preparing of design partsfor sewing process - sepatation of parts which will be sewed
together - Bonding of reinforcement Cutting, shearing, carving, clicking
Spreading affected by table length, type of equipment, spread
length, spreading time, cutting time Nonconventional methods water jet, laser, plasma, hot air,electroflash
Equipment Scizzors, cutting and creasing press
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Cutting process The most efficient layout of pattern pieces
Zik-zak continuous, all movements are
operative, materials without hairs,underwear, working clothes, the fastest
Right-right noncontinuous, onemovement operative cut turn, materialswith hairs, where hairs influence colour,upper clothes, leather clothes, saving ofmaterial, time consuming
Right-back noncontinuous, onemovement operative cut idly movement,materials with hairs, upper clothes,upholstery, same colour shade, lower savingof material
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Automatical cutter
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Sewing process
Jointing (sewing) of
clothing parts to theclothing product.
Sewed mailny by handand machine equipment
Sewed with stitches andseems
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Stitches
Stitch is a single complete in-and-out movement of the
threaded needle in sewing. (needle thread, bobbin hook thread, looper thread)
Single-Thread Chain Stitch (class 100)
Hand Stitch (class 200)
Lock Stitch (class 300) Chain Stitch (class 400)
Overedge Stitch (class 500)
Flat Stitch (class 600) Button Hole Stitches (makes holes for button), Button Sew
Stitches
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Single-Thread Chain Stitch (class 100)
one thread, used for basting, light
construction, blindstitches
Hand Stitch (class 200) one thread,
Back stitch (basting, tacking, repairs), running stitch (topstitching)
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Lock Stitch (class 300) two threads, used for general seaming,
topstitching, multiple plies, zig-zag stitching for stretch material
Chain Stitch (class 400) two threads, used for stretched and knittedmaterial, coverstitching where greater stretch is required
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Overedge Stitch (class 500) 2,4,5 threads, used for
serging (covering) raw edges, thread cross-over is on the
edge of the fabric
Flat Stitch (class 600) 4,5,6 threads, used for cover stitch for over-
stitching seams, seaming stitch for hemming on knits, decorative
stitch for knits and wovens
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Lockstitch
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Sewing needle
Chosen according to the
weight and the texture
of the fabric to be sewn.
Ball-point or wedge
needles - knitted
Double needle
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SeemsSeem is a joining of two pieces of material with a line of stitches.
SS class Superimposed seams - in which two or more plies of fabric aresuperimposed on each other
LS class Lapped seams - in which two or more plies of fabric aresuperimposed and/or folded on each other
BS class Bound (Binding) seams - in which one ply of fabric is sewn overthe edge of two or more plies of fabric
FS class Flat (Butted) seams - in which two or more plies of fabric aresewn together at the edges
EF class Edge finish stitching - fabric edge is finished with stitching
OS class Ornamental stitching - stitches sewn on one ply of fabric
http://www.yourdictionary.com/seam, http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/index.html
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Sewing machine mechanism
+ pedestal, gearing, greasing, lower yarn winding on mechanism
needle
movements
mechanism
feeding of
sewed
material
mechanism
capture of loop mechanism
feeding of upper yarns mechanism
stitch lengthchecking
and back
motion
pressure
mechanism
transmission
mechanism
sewing machinebody
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Sewing machine mechanism
Overcasting machines
-Loop catcher-Knife
Auxiliary equipments to make process easier
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Sewing process
Parting according to use for home, manufacturing,industry
Parting accorting to ease light, middle, hard
Parting according to operation simple sewing,embroidering, hemming, seaming, faggoting, reinforcing,overcasting, for holes making, share sewing, single-purposesewing, automatical lines
Parting according to branch - underwear, upper wear,technical confection, hatters, shoemaking, leather
Parting according to type of automation without
automation, with automation parts, partly-automated (notfeeding), automated, fully automated working place
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Sewing process
Technological parting according to working desk of machine
and shape plain, culumnar, with shoulder, special shaped
With various numbers of needles and yarns
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Sewing
rooms
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Forming process
Forming gives to product its final look mainly by thermaland wet-thermal incidence.
Fixation gives shape and size stability.
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Irons, gooses
Ironing machines, organs
Ironing boards, tables
FigurinesCrimping machines
Shaping parts
Parts for printingSteaming machines
Reinforcing machines
Pressing
Forming equipment
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Forming
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Finishing process
Cleaning, local cleaning
Surface adjustment
Clothes printing
Special surface treatment
Assembling of complex clothes
Button and hole sewing
Adjustment
Labeling
Packing
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Embroidery machine
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Garment analysis and inspection
Visual inspection before use,
after use, after laundry, etc.
Laboratory analysis, quality
according to standarts,
comparing with similar product,other specifications
Statisticaly independent x every
piece
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Sewing threads
Specifications: good sewing ability, low breakage rate,evenness, good tenacity and elongation, abrasion resistance,
bending rigidity; size and colour stability, stability of twist
size and direction High mechanical and thermical loading
Natural materials Syntetical
Cotton basic use Polyester, Polyamid
Linen high tenacity Short, continuous, core yarn
Skin, natural friendly High tenacity, elasticity
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Sewing threads - manufacturing
Single yarn manufacturing evenness; carded, combedring, rotor
Winding Doubling
Plying dry, wet; parallel, opposite twist; single, multiply
Finishing Mercerizing, bleaching, dying, washing, burnigoff, conditioning, tunbling,
Winding
Adjustment, labeling, packing
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Thank you for your attention.
Questions?
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