07 Clothing

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Introduction

ClothingMSc. Pavla Vozkov


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Apparel Clothing industry follow textile industry closely

Need special organisation

Automatisation of some operations

Ready-made (mass-customized)

x made-to-measure (tailored) clothes


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Clothing products: Upper clothes, underwear, accessories Clothing materials: All textile and non-textile materials

used for clothes construction

Clothing materials: fabrics, bits and pieces (textile,technical)


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What satisfy consumers needs Producer easy production, economical production

Consumer aestetics, price, value, comfort, durability,care, functional use

Prize classification Low-end prize is the primary

point of competition, less quality- Moderate low prize, better quality

- Better style and fit, smaller proportion of market

- Designer high style, quality, prize, known name


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Process analysis Complexproduction processSum oftechnological andoperationalprocesses duringwhich rise clothingproduct

Main Auxiliary

Secondary

processes Management withthe material andcomplete products


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Technical preparation of production

CPP documentation for cutting process

TPP documentation for production phases


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Designing

Style description brand, selling period, target group,selling strategy, fashion line

Sizing and fitting size standards, body proportions,age, gender, body types, size ranges

Material selection material characteristic properties,drapability, count, different right and wrong sides,weight, structural design, colour, finishes

Special needs special use, special applications, needs

of special target group Possibilities of construction during processing

Components assembly peaces completing

Final assembly, style presentation


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Production planning

Basic style construction, pattern

making Shape modification according to

model picture, structuring andsegmentation

Gradeing fitting for variousstandartized sizes

CIM construction integratedmanufacturing

CAD, CAE, CAP, CAM, CAQ

(computer aided design,

engineering, planning,manufacturing, quality)


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Technical drawing


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Cutting process

Acceptance and sorting of obtained materials - Materialspreading - Cutting of designed parts - Preparing of design partsfor sewing process - sepatation of parts which will be sewed

together - Bonding of reinforcement Cutting, shearing, carving, clicking

Spreading affected by table length, type of equipment, spread

length, spreading time, cutting time Nonconventional methods water jet, laser, plasma, hot air,electroflash

Equipment Scizzors, cutting and creasing press


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Cutting process The most efficient layout of pattern pieces

Zik-zak continuous, all movements are

operative, materials without hairs,underwear, working clothes, the fastest

Right-right noncontinuous, onemovement operative cut turn, materialswith hairs, where hairs influence colour,upper clothes, leather clothes, saving ofmaterial, time consuming

Right-back noncontinuous, onemovement operative cut idly movement,materials with hairs, upper clothes,upholstery, same colour shade, lower savingof material


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Automatical cutter


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Sewing process

Jointing (sewing) of

clothing parts to theclothing product.

Sewed mailny by handand machine equipment

Sewed with stitches andseems


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Stitches

Stitch is a single complete in-and-out movement of the

threaded needle in sewing. (needle thread, bobbin hook thread, looper thread)

Single-Thread Chain Stitch (class 100)

Hand Stitch (class 200)

Lock Stitch (class 300) Chain Stitch (class 400)

Overedge Stitch (class 500)

Flat Stitch (class 600) Button Hole Stitches (makes holes for button), Button Sew

Stitches


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Single-Thread Chain Stitch (class 100)

one thread, used for basting, light

construction, blindstitches

Hand Stitch (class 200) one thread,

Back stitch (basting, tacking, repairs), running stitch (topstitching)


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Lock Stitch (class 300) two threads, used for general seaming,

topstitching, multiple plies, zig-zag stitching for stretch material

Chain Stitch (class 400) two threads, used for stretched and knittedmaterial, coverstitching where greater stretch is required


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Overedge Stitch (class 500) 2,4,5 threads, used for

serging (covering) raw edges, thread cross-over is on the

edge of the fabric

Flat Stitch (class 600) 4,5,6 threads, used for cover stitch for over-

stitching seams, seaming stitch for hemming on knits, decorative

stitch for knits and wovens


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Lockstitch


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Sewing needle

Chosen according to the

weight and the texture

of the fabric to be sewn.

Ball-point or wedge

needles - knitted

Double needle


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SeemsSeem is a joining of two pieces of material with a line of stitches.

SS class Superimposed seams - in which two or more plies of fabric aresuperimposed on each other

LS class Lapped seams - in which two or more plies of fabric aresuperimposed and/or folded on each other

BS class Bound (Binding) seams - in which one ply of fabric is sewn overthe edge of two or more plies of fabric

FS class Flat (Butted) seams - in which two or more plies of fabric aresewn together at the edges

EF class Edge finish stitching - fabric edge is finished with stitching

OS class Ornamental stitching - stitches sewn on one ply of fabric

http://www.yourdictionary.com/seam, http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/index.html


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Sewing machine mechanism

+ pedestal, gearing, greasing, lower yarn winding on mechanism

needle

movements

mechanism

feeding of

sewed

material

mechanism

capture of loop mechanism

feeding of upper yarns mechanism

stitch lengthchecking

and back

motion

pressure

mechanism

transmission

mechanism

sewing machinebody


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Sewing machine mechanism

Overcasting machines

-Loop catcher-Knife

Auxiliary equipments to make process easier


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Sewing process

Parting according to use for home, manufacturing,industry

Parting accorting to ease light, middle, hard

Parting according to operation simple sewing,embroidering, hemming, seaming, faggoting, reinforcing,overcasting, for holes making, share sewing, single-purposesewing, automatical lines

Parting according to branch - underwear, upper wear,technical confection, hatters, shoemaking, leather

Parting according to type of automation without

automation, with automation parts, partly-automated (notfeeding), automated, fully automated working place


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Sewing process

Technological parting according to working desk of machine

and shape plain, culumnar, with shoulder, special shaped

With various numbers of needles and yarns


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Sewing

rooms


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Forming process

Forming gives to product its final look mainly by thermaland wet-thermal incidence.

Fixation gives shape and size stability.


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Irons, gooses

Ironing machines, organs

Ironing boards, tables

FigurinesCrimping machines

Shaping parts

Parts for printingSteaming machines

Reinforcing machines

Pressing

Forming equipment


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Forming


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Finishing process

Cleaning, local cleaning

Surface adjustment

Clothes printing

Special surface treatment

Assembling of complex clothes

Button and hole sewing

Adjustment

Labeling

Packing


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Embroidery machine


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Garment analysis and inspection

Visual inspection before use,

after use, after laundry, etc.

Laboratory analysis, quality

according to standarts,

comparing with similar product,other specifications

Statisticaly independent x every

piece


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Sewing threads

Specifications: good sewing ability, low breakage rate,evenness, good tenacity and elongation, abrasion resistance,

bending rigidity; size and colour stability, stability of twist

size and direction High mechanical and thermical loading

Natural materials Syntetical

Cotton basic use Polyester, Polyamid

Linen high tenacity Short, continuous, core yarn

Skin, natural friendly High tenacity, elasticity


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Sewing threads - manufacturing

Single yarn manufacturing evenness; carded, combedring, rotor

Winding Doubling

Plying dry, wet; parallel, opposite twist; single, multiply

Finishing Mercerizing, bleaching, dying, washing, burnigoff, conditioning, tunbling,

Winding

Adjustment, labeling, packing


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Thank you for your attention.

Questions?

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07 Clothing

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