Yishu by Michele Wang v1.0

BROOKLYN TWEED

YISHUStriped Architectural Topby Michele Wang

2YISHU COMPONENTS

Materials

Fingering weight wool yarn in the following approximate amounts:935 (1010, 1090, 1210, 1300, 1430) yards Color 1 (C1); 550 (640, 755, 820, 950, 1025) yards Color 2 (C2)

Brooklyn Tweed Loft (100% American Targhee-Columbia wool; 275 yards/50g): 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) skeins C1 and 2 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) skeins C2

Photographed in colors Cast Iron (C1) and Fossil (C2)

Gauge

22 stitches & 34 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch, after blocking

Note: Both stitch and row gauge are important; since the fronts are worked side-to-side, the number of rows worked determines the width of the pieces

Needles

One 32" circular needle in size needed to obtain gauge listedSuggested Size: 3 mm (US 5)

Finished Dimensions

39 (43, 47, 50, 54, 58)" circumference at bust

Sized to fit approximately 30-32 (34-36, 38-40, 42-44, 46-48, 50-52)" bustSample shown is size 43" with + 10" ease on model

Additional Tools

Stitch markers, locking stitch markers or coilless safety pins, T-pins (optional), blunt tapestry needle, a small amount of sock yarn in a similar color for seaming (see Construction Notes)

Skill Level

Pattern Version 1.0Last Revised January 2015

www.brooklyntweed.com All images, text, and illustration Brooklyn Tweed 20153

YISHU SCHEMATICS

Mark both notched points above;leave this space open when assembling

Marker

Center Sleeve Marker

Center Sleeve Marker

Marker

MarkerMarker

V-Neck Point (Marker)

Attach Left Front Attach Right Front

Attach to Back

RIGHTFRONT

BACK SLEEVES

LEFTFRONT

18 (20, 22, 24, 26, 28)"

19 (19, 19, 19, 20, 20)"

2 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4)"

4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5)"

8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 12)"

8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 12)"

10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15)"

9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14)"

19 (19, 19, 19, 20, 20)"

7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10)"

7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10)"

18 (17, 18, 18, 19, 19)"

18 (17, 18, 18, 19, 19)"

15 (16, 18, 19, 20, 21)"

20 (20, 20, 20, 21, 21)"

13 (14, 15, 16, 17, 18)"

16 (18, 19, 20, 21, 23)"

11 (11, 10, 10, 10, 10)"


CONSTRUCTION NOTES The back and sleeves are worked flat from the bottom up, in

Color 1 only. The fronts are worked from side to side in Color 2, beginning at the center front edge and ending at the side seam edge. The fronts are shaped with short rows and feature a contrasting Color 1 stripe. The pieces are blocked, then sewn together. The fronts extend over the wearers shoulder to the back. The sleeves are sewn between marked points on the fronts and back.

A circular needle is used to accommodate the large number of stitches on the fronts.

Selvedge stitches are worked as {GSS} on the back, sleeves, and shoulder edge of the fronts, and as {SSS} on the hem edge of the fronts where they will be exposed (see Special Techniques).

Short Rows: Yarn Over Method (see Special Techniques) is used when shaping the fronts. Short Rows: Wrap and Turn Method (see Special Techniques) may be substituted.

Because of the softly spun nature of this yarn, some knitters prefer to do their seaming with a firmly spun yarn, such as sock yarn, in a similar color; alternatively, you may add twist into the yarn (in the same direction as the yarn is plied) as you seam to add tensile strength.

BACKWith Color 1 (C1), cast on 102 (113, 124, 135, 146, 157) stitches using the Long-Tail Cast On. Do not join; work back and forth in rows.

Main Fabric

Next Row (WS): {GSS}, purl to last stitch, {GSS}.

Work even in stockinette stitch (knit on RS; purl on WS), working selvedge stitches in {GSS} as established, until piece measures 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2)" from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape Sides

Side Increase Row (RS): {GSS}, knit 2, Inv-L, knit to last 4 stitches, Inv-R, knit 2, {GSS}. (2 stitches increased)

Repeat the Side Increase Row every 18th row 7 more times.

Upon completion of this section, you will have worked the Side Increase Row a total of 8 times; you now have 118 (129, 140, 151, 162, 173) stitches on your needle.

Work even until piece measures 19 (19, 19, 19, 20, 20)" from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape Upper Back Curve

For best results, use the Sloped Bind Off (see Special Techniques) in this section. Discontinue {GSS} at bind-off edges.

Bind off 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 4 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10) rows, then 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 (2, 2, 4, 2, 2) rows, then 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 (2, 0, 4, 4, 6) rows, then 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4) rows, then 6 stitches at the beginning of the next 4 (8, 8, 6, 6, 6) rows, then 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 (2, 4, 4, 6, 6) rows. [22 (23, 26, 27, 28, 31) stitches remain]

Bind off remaining stitches.

Mark shoulder placement: With RS facing, place locking stitch markers or coilless safety pins in the bind-off edge on either side of the center 22 (23, 26, 27, 28, 31) stitches.

ABOUT THIS DESIGNA sweater of a different stripe, Yishu features graphic suspender columns, wide cropped sleeves, and exposed seams that emphasize an unusual construction and project casual artistry. Choose your favorite contrasting shades of Loft and wear your Yishu with 7-10" of ease.


LEFT FRONTWith C2, cast on 188 (192, 204, 210, 222, 230) stitches using the Long-Tail Cast On. Do not join; work back and forth in rows.

Next Row (WS): {GSS}, purl to last stitch, {SSS}.Next Row (RS): {SSS}, knit to last stitch, {GSS}.

The {GSS} is used at the shoulder edge, which will be seamed; the {SSS} is used at the hem edge, which will not be seamed.

With RS facing, place a locking stitch marker or coilless safety pin in the cast-on edge after 112 (113, 116, 117, 120, 121) stitches from right edge to mark V-neck.

Work even in stockinette stitch, working selvedge stitches as established, until piece measures 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5)" from cast-on edge. Break C2.

Switch to C1, work even for 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3)". Break C1.

Switch to C2, work even until piece measures 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13)" from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape Side Edge

Please review Short Rows: Yarn Over Method or Short Rows: Wrap and Turn Method (see Special Techniques) before proceeding. Either method may be used; do not work instructions for both.

Yarn Over Method:Short Row 1 (RS): {SSS}, knit 106 (106, 111, 111, 115, 115), turn and

YO;Short Row 2 (WS): Purl to last stitch, {SSS}.Short Row 3: {SSS}, knit to 15 (15, 16, 16, 16, 16) stitches before YO

from previous RS row, turn and YO;Short Row 4: Purl to last stitch, {SSS}.

Repeat Short Rows 3 & 4 five more times.

Next Row (RS): {SSS}, knit to last stitch, hiding the YOs by working them together with adjacent stitches as described in Special Techniques, {GSS}.

Wrap and Turn Method:Short Row 1 (RS): {SSS}, knit 106 (106, 111, 111, 115, 115), wrap and

turn;Short Row 2 (WS): Purl to last stitch, {SSS}.Short Row 3: {SSS}, knit to 15 (15, 16, 16, 16, 16) stitches before

wrapped stitch from previous RS row, wrap and turn;Short Row 4: Purl to last stitch, {SSS}.


Next Row (RS): {SSS}, knit to last stitch, hiding the wraps by working them together with wrapped stitches as described in Special Techniques, {GSS}.

Resume after Short Rows:Work 1 row even (WS).

Bind off all stitches.

Mark center of sleeve placement: With RS facing, place locking stitch marker or coilless safety pin in the bind-off edge 41 (42, 46, 49, 52, 58) stitches [about 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10)"] from left edge.


Wrap and Turn Method:Short Row 1 (WS): {SSS}, purl 106 (106, 111, 111, 115, 115), wrap and

turn;Short Row 2 (RS): Knit to last stitch, {SSS}.Short Row 3: {SSS}, purl to 15 (15, 16, 16, 16, 16) stitches before

wrapped stitch from previous WS row, wrap and turn;Short Row 4: Knit to last stitch, {SSS}.


Next Row (WS): {SSS}, purl to last stitch, hiding the wraps by working them together with wrapped stitches as described in Special Techniques, {WCS}.

Resume after Short Rows:Work 1 row even (RS).


Mark center of sleeve placement: With RS facing, place locking stitch marker or coilless safety pin in the bind-off edge 41 (42, 46, 49, 52, 58) stitches [about 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10)"] from right edge.

RIGHT FRONTWith C2, cast on 188 (192, 204, 210, 222, 230) stitches using the Long-Tail Cast On. Do not join; work back and forth in rows.

Next Row (WS): {SSS}, purl to last stitch, {GSS}.Next Row (RS): {GSS}, knit to last stitch, {SSS}.

The {GSS} is used at the shoulder edge, which will be seamed; the {SSS} is used at the hem edge, which will not be seamed.

With RS facing, place a locking stitch marker or coilless safety pin in the cast-on edge after 76 (79, 88, 93, 102, 109) stitches from right edge to mark V-neck.

Work even in stockinette stitch, working selvedge stitches as established, until piece measures 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5)" from cast-on edge. Break C2.

Switch to C1, work even for 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3)". Break C1.

Switch to C2, work even until piece measures 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13)" from cast-on edge, ending with a RS row.

Shape Side Edge

Please review Short Rows: Yarn Over Method or Short Rows: Wrap and Turn Method before proceeding. Either method may be used; do not work instructions for both.

Yarn Over Method:Short Row 1 (WS): {SSS}, purl 106 (106, 111, 111, 115, 115), turn and

YO;Short Row 2 (RS): Knit to last stitch, {SSS}.Short Row 3: {SSS}, purl to 15 (15, 16, 16, 16, 16) stitches before YO

from previous WS row, turn and YO;Short Row 4: Knit to last stitch, {SSS}.


Next Row (WS): {SSS}, purl to last stitch, hiding the YOs by working them together with adjacent stitches as described in Special Techniques, {WCS}.


SLEEVES (MAKE 2)With C1, cast on 76 (82, 86, 92, 98, 104) stitches using the Long-Tail Cast On. Do not join; work back and forth in rows.

Next Row (WS): {GSS}, purl to last stitch, {GSS}.

Work even in stockinette stitch (knit on RS; purl on WS), working selvedge stitches in {GSS} as established, for 8 more rows, ending with a WS row.

Shape Sleeve

Sleeve Increase Row (RS): {GSS}, knit 3, Inv-L, knit to last 5 stitches, Inv-R, knit 3, {GSS}. (2 stitches increased)

Repeat the Sleeve Increase Row every 10th (8th, 8th, 8th, 6th, 6th) row 4 (9, 1, 1, 10, 8) more time(s), then every 8th (0, 6th, 6th, 4th, 4th) row 4 (0, 10, 10, 1, 4) time(s).

Upon completion of this section, you will have worked the Sleeve Increase Row a total of 9 (10, 12, 12, 12, 13) times; you now have 94 (102, 110, 116, 122, 130) stitches on your needle.

Work even until sleeve measures 11 (11, 10, 10, 10, 10)" from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.


Repeat instructions for second sleeve.

FINISHINGLeave all locking stitch markers or coilless safety pins in place while pieces are being blocked. Wet-block pieces to schematic measurements (see Special Techniques). With matching sock yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew shoulder seams (see Construction Notes), sewing tops of fronts (the narrower edge) to the curved bind-off edge of top of back, between first bind-off row and marker, making sure that V-neck markers on fronts are at center front of garment for neck edge. Leave 4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5 )" at top of back between markers open. With WSs together, sew center front seam, so that seam is exposed on the RS, from hem edge to V-neck markers. Place markers on front and back side edges 18 (17, 18, 18, 19, 19)" up from hem. Sew sleeves between markers on front and back side edges, matching center of sleeve to additional marker on front. Sew sleeve and side seams. Remove all markers.

Weave in ends neatly on WS of fabric, taking care to weave in ends within the same color fabric in striped sections.

Steam seams gently or wet-block entire garment again.


Short Rows: Yarn Over Method

Turn and YO:On a RS (knit) row: Knit to specified point, turn work (WS facing now), bring yarn to back between L and R needles, bring yarn forward over R needle (making a yarn over), now prepare to purl back in the opposite direction. Yarn over will rest next to the turning point.On a WS (purl) row: Purl to specified point, turn work (RS facing now), bring yarn to front between L and R needles, bring yarn to back over R needle (making a yarn over), now prepare to knit back in the opposite direction. Yarn over will rest next to the turning point.To hide the yarn overs in subsequent rows:On a RS (knit) row: Knit to the yarn over, insert R needle into first unworked stitch on L needle (after yarn over) and into yarn over and knit these two together.

On a WS (purl) row: Purl to the yarn over, SSP the yarn over together with the next stitch on the L needle (this is the first unworked stitch after the yarn over).

Wrap & Turn Method (stockinette stitch)

On a knit row:Slip next stitch to R needle, pass yarn from back to front, slip stitch back to L needle.Turn to work purl row, passing yarn to front of work. When you work the next stitch, take care to pull yarn snugly.On a purl row:Slip next stitch to R needle, pass yarn from front to back, slip stitch back to L needle.Turn to work knit row, passing yarn to back of work.

When you come to a wrapped stitch in subsequent rows:For knit stitches: insert the R needle into the wrap and then into the wrapped stitch and knit them together.For purl stitches: insert the R needle from behind, under the wrap, and then into the wrapped stitch, then purl them together.

SPECIAL TECHNIQUES{GSS} Garter Stitch Selvedge

This selvedge is particularly elastic and is appropriate for shaped edges of fabric.

RS & WS Rows: Knit the first and the last stitch of every row.

{SSS} Slip-Stitch Selvedge

This selvedge is decorative and creates a clean chain of stockinette running along the side edges of your fabric.

RS Rows: With yarn held in front, slip first stitch of row as if to purl through the back loop; work as instructed by pattern until 1 stitch remains in row, purl the last stitch.

WS Rows: With yarn held in back, slip first stitch of row as if to knit; work as instructed by pattern until 1 stitch remains in row, knit the last stitch.

Sloped Bind Off

Step 1: Work the first bind off rows at the garment edges as usual.Step 2: One row before the next bind off row, work to the last stitch

of the row, turn.Step 3: Slip the first stitch from the L needle purlwise, pass the

unworked stitch of the previous row over the slipped stitch (the first stitch is bound off ). Bind off the remaining stitches as usual.


Wet-Blocking

Fill a sink or basin with warm water and a small amount of delicate dish soap or rinseless wool wash. Submerge fabric in water, gently squeezing out any air bubbles so that the piece can remain under water without being held there. Soak work for 30 minutes, allowing fabric to become completely saturated.

Drain the sink and remove work. If you have used dish soap (rather than rinseless wool wash), you will want to fill the sink again once or twice to rinse the soap from your fabric. Never place knitting directly under running water.

Squeeze out excess water from your work, taking care not to twist or wring fabric. Roll your fabric between two clean bath towels burrito style and firmly press towel roll. This will aid in removing moisture from the knitted piece. Remove piece from towels your fabric should now feel damp but not saturated.

Pin pieces in place on a blocking board or other appropriate surface, using instructed dimensions. Use as many T-pins as required to block piece into desired shape. Allow fabric to air dry completely before removing.


ABBREVIATIONSSSP (Slip, Slip, Purl): Slip 2 stitches knitwise, one at a time, transfer

stitches back to L needle in their new orientation, then purl the stitches together through the back loops. (1 stitch decreased; leans left)

Inv-L (Invisible Increase Left): Slip one stitch from L needle as if to purl, now lift the L leg of the stitch in the row below the slipped stitch and place it on L needle. Knit the lifted stitch through the back loop (because it is mounted on the L needle in the opposite-from-normal orientation) keeping it from being twisted. (1 stitch increased; leans left)

Inv-R (Invisible Increase Right): Place the R leg of the stitch below first stitch on L needle onto L needle and knit it (creating one new stitch on R needle no stitches have been slipped from L needle yet), then slip the first stitch on L needle purlwise. (1 stitch increased; leans right)

YO (Yarn Over): When followed by a knit stitch, bring yarn to front, then over top of R needle from front to back, leaving yarn at back and creating 1 new stitch; when followed by a purl stitch, bring yarn to front, then around top of R needle, leaving yarn at front and creating 1 new stitch.

RS (Right Side): This term refers to the public side of the knitted fabric, i.e. the fabric that will be visible when garment is worn. In projects with reversible fabrics, RS will be assigned specifically at the beginning of the pattern.

WS (Wrong Side): This term refers to the non-public side of the knitted fabric, i.e. the fabric that will not be visible when garment is worn. In projects with reversible fabrics, WS will be assigned specifically at the beginning of the pattern.

L: Left (Generally used in technique instructions to indicate which of your two working needles is being used).

R: Right (Generally used in technique instructions to indicate which of your two working needles is being used).

Yishu by Michele Wang v1.0

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