Woven Fabrics

WOVEN FABRICS

WOVEN FABRICSWOVEN FABRICS

The formation of woven fabric is made by interlacement of yarns at The formation of woven fabric is made by interlacement of yarns at right angles to each other. The central portion of the woven fabric is right angles to each other. The central portion of the woven fabric is called the body and the edges of right and left sides are called the called the body and the edges of right and left sides are called the selvedges. The selvedges are usually differ from the body of the selvedges. The selvedges are usually differ from the body of the fabric in both yarn and fabric formation.fabric in both yarn and fabric formation.

Interlacing yarns at right angles to each other makes the basic Interlacing yarns at right angles to each other makes the basic weaves. The longitudinal or lengthwise yarns are known as warp. weaves. The longitudinal or lengthwise yarns are known as warp. The individual warp yarns are called ends. The widthwise yarns are The individual warp yarns are called ends. The widthwise yarns are known as weft or filling. The individual yarns are called picks.known as weft or filling. The individual yarns are called picks.

The closeness or compactness of fabric is determined by yarn count The closeness or compactness of fabric is determined by yarn count and construction (yarns per unit area). Fabrics with finer yarn count and construction (yarns per unit area). Fabrics with finer yarn count are denser than those with a coarser yarn count. Finer yarn count are denser than those with a coarser yarn count. Finer yarn count and balanced construction generally yields better performance.and balanced construction generally yields better performance.

SPECIFICATION OF WOVEN FABRICSSPECIFICATION OF WOVEN FABRICS

The specification of fabrics is indicated by construction, which is The specification of fabrics is indicated by construction, which is ends per inch (EPI) X picks per inch (PPI), yarn count (Nw x Nwf), the ends per inch (EPI) X picks per inch (PPI), yarn count (Nw x Nwf), the fabric width and the weight (gsm) in terms of grams per square fabric width and the weight (gsm) in terms of grams per square meter. This is written in the following form;meter. This is written in the following form;

Width, EPI X PPI, Nw x Nwf, GSM

Width is measured in inches or cmsWidth is measured in inches or cmsEPI – Ends per inchEPI – Ends per inchPPI – Picks per inchPPI – Picks per inch

Nw – Warp yarn countNw – Warp yarn countNwf – Weft yarn countNwf – Weft yarn count

GSM – Fabric weight expressed in grams per GSM – Fabric weight expressed in grams per square metersquare meter

BASKET AND RIB WEAVEBASKET AND RIB WEAVE

• Easy to produce. Wherever a reasonably comfort and durability plain weave fabrics are ideally suitable. Offers simple and plain background.

• Gives good background for surface ornamentation like embroidery and printing techniques.

PLAIN WEAVEPLAIN WEAVE• Provide an interesting patterned effect. By proper choice of colored Provide an interesting patterned effect. By proper choice of colored

warp and weft yarns, basket weave can be used to produce patterns warp and weft yarns, basket weave can be used to produce patterns that provide a more sprightly appear able.that provide a more sprightly appear able.

• The more open structure of the basket weave increases moisture The more open structure of the basket weave increases moisture permeability. Simple structure of basket and ribs, which commonly used permeability. Simple structure of basket and ribs, which commonly used for shirting fabric. It will have adequate moisture permeability. This for shirting fabric. It will have adequate moisture permeability. This helps to keep the wearer cool in hot weather.helps to keep the wearer cool in hot weather.

• Since the yarns are free to move, they can more readily absorb the Since the yarns are free to move, they can more readily absorb the stresses caused by their crushing and bending .For this reason the stresses caused by their crushing and bending .For this reason the basket weave is more wrinkle resistant than plain weave.basket weave is more wrinkle resistant than plain weave.

• Further more, because the yarns are held less tightly in the simple Further more, because the yarns are held less tightly in the simple basket and rib weaves, they have greater mobility this allows the basket and rib weaves, they have greater mobility this allows the garment to stretch more as the wearer move about.garment to stretch more as the wearer move about.

PLAIN WEAVEPLAIN WEAVE• Larger floats in basket and rib weave fabrics are subjected to snagging, Larger floats in basket and rib weave fabrics are subjected to snagging,

(To rubbing against surface). As a general rule, the larger the floats, (To rubbing against surface). As a general rule, the larger the floats, results less durable.results less durable.

• 2/2 and 2/1 weft ribs are known as oxford weaves, which is a popular 2/2 and 2/1 weft ribs are known as oxford weaves, which is a popular shirting fabric, are produced by the weft yarns are made twice the shirting fabric, are produced by the weft yarns are made twice the diameter of the warp yarns.diameter of the warp yarns.

• Thus when the fabric woven, the rib pattern is suppressed and the Thus when the fabric woven, the rib pattern is suppressed and the fabric has the overall appearance of a plain Weave. However, because fabric has the overall appearance of a plain Weave. However, because the yarns are not held as tightly as in the plain weave, the fabric is more the yarns are not held as tightly as in the plain weave, the fabric is more wrinkle resistance and more comfortable.wrinkle resistance and more comfortable.

• Introducing coarser warp or weft yarns at regular across the fabric can Introducing coarser warp or weft yarns at regular across the fabric can produce ribbed fabrics. Ribs can enhance the body by stiffening the produce ribbed fabrics. Ribs can enhance the body by stiffening the cloth and giving it the feel of a heavier fabric.cloth and giving it the feel of a heavier fabric.

TWILL WEAVETWILL WEAVETwill weaves patterns produces diagonal lines in the fabric structure. Twill weaves patterns produces diagonal lines in the fabric structure. Producing twill weave structures requires minimum three harnesses in Producing twill weave structures requires minimum three harnesses in loom. Twills may have the diagonal lines running from the lower left to loom. Twills may have the diagonal lines running from the lower left to upper right (right – hand twill), or the lower right to the upper left (left-upper right (right – hand twill), or the lower right to the upper left (left-hand twills). There is no rule that determines which way the diagonal hand twills). There is no rule that determines which way the diagonal should run; the properties of the fabric are the same in either case.should run; the properties of the fabric are the same in either case.

The angle of diagonal line is determined by the positioning of the floats. If The angle of diagonal line is determined by the positioning of the floats. If the diagonal line runs less than 45the diagonal line runs less than 45 degree of angle, it is known as reclined degree of angle, it is known as reclined twill. If the diagonal line runs exactly 45 degree of angle, it is known as twill. If the diagonal line runs exactly 45 degree of angle, it is known as regular twills. In case of steep twills, the diagonal line runs more than 45 regular twills. In case of steep twills, the diagonal line runs more than 45 degree of angle. The angle of the diagonal line is often good indication of degree of angle. The angle of the diagonal line is often good indication of quality of the fabric. Since warp yarns are usually stronger and more quality of the fabric. Since warp yarns are usually stronger and more abrasion resistance than the weft yarns, steep twill can be more durable abrasion resistance than the weft yarns, steep twill can be more durable than regular or inclines twills. However, the performance of a twill fabric than regular or inclines twills. However, the performance of a twill fabric also depends upon the pattern.also depends upon the pattern.

TWILL WEAVETWILL WEAVE In warp faced, there is more warp yarns and layer warps a float than weft In warp faced, there is more warp yarns and layer warps a float than weft yarns on the face side of the fabric. In weft faced twills more weft yarns yarns on the face side of the fabric. In weft faced twills more weft yarns and longer floats than warp appear on the surface.and longer floats than warp appear on the surface. Where there are equal numbers of ends and picks and equal length of Where there are equal numbers of ends and picks and equal length of floats in warp and weft direction on the surface, the fabric known as floats in warp and weft direction on the surface, the fabric known as balanced or even twill. This produces reversible fabric. balanced or even twill. This produces reversible fabric.

PERFORMANCE OF TWILL WEAVES PERFORMANCE OF TWILL WEAVES

• The interaction between structure and yarn count, patterns and angle The interaction between structure and yarn count, patterns and angle allow many more designs to be created in twill weaves.allow many more designs to be created in twill weaves.

• Twill weaves usually have low permeability of water and moisture or air Twill weaves usually have low permeability of water and moisture or air because of the warp and weft yarns produce for a compact structure. because of the warp and weft yarns produce for a compact structure.

• At the same time, the wind resistance of the fabric is increased. At the same time, the wind resistance of the fabric is increased.

• These properties make the twill weave construction very essential for These properties make the twill weave construction very essential for outerwear. Such as outerwear and raincoats.outerwear. Such as outerwear and raincoats.

PERFORMANCE OF TWILL WEAVES PERFORMANCE OF TWILL WEAVES • The feature of twill weave construction is the improved pliability and The feature of twill weave construction is the improved pliability and

wrinkle resistance as compared to the plain weave. wrinkle resistance as compared to the plain weave.

• However, wrinkle resistance is not as great as in the rib or basket However, wrinkle resistance is not as great as in the rib or basket weaves without decreasing the durability. weaves without decreasing the durability.

• The compactness of warp faced twill structure makes good resistance to The compactness of warp faced twill structure makes good resistance to soiling. While removal of soil is equivalent to the plain weave.soiling. While removal of soil is equivalent to the plain weave.

• Warp faced twills are more durable than the plain weave, provided that Warp faced twills are more durable than the plain weave, provided that the floats are not too long.the floats are not too long.

• For example, a 2/1 or 3/2 regular twill weave structure provides greater For example, a 2/1 or 3/2 regular twill weave structure provides greater strength and abrasion resistance than rib, basket or plain weave. strength and abrasion resistance than rib, basket or plain weave.

• The 3/2 60 degree steep twill is even more durable. The 3/2 60 degree steep twill is even more durable.

There are two factors that contribute durability There are two factors that contribute durability performance of twill weave fabrics.performance of twill weave fabrics.

• The stronger warp yarns predominate on the face of the cloth.The stronger warp yarns predominate on the face of the cloth.

• The yarns are not held in tightly in twill weave structure as in the plain The yarns are not held in tightly in twill weave structure as in the plain weave .The stress and strains are distributed over more yarns .The weave .The stress and strains are distributed over more yarns .The length of the weft floats is reduced in the steep twill as compared to the length of the weft floats is reduced in the steep twill as compared to the regular twill. This provides greater abrasion resistance.regular twill. This provides greater abrasion resistance.

• If the fabric is made of balanced twill, more of the weft yarns are If the fabric is made of balanced twill, more of the weft yarns are exposed on the face of the fabric and abrasion resistance is decreased. exposed on the face of the fabric and abrasion resistance is decreased. If reclining twill is used, the abrasion resistance is decreased further If reclining twill is used, the abrasion resistance is decreased further more.more.

• The durability performance of properly designed twill weave structure The durability performance of properly designed twill weave structure is higher than a plain weave of the same yarn count, construction and is higher than a plain weave of the same yarn count, construction and weight because of the number of bindings in the fabric. The bindings weight because of the number of bindings in the fabric. The bindings are the points where the warp and weft yarns are interlaced.are the points where the warp and weft yarns are interlaced.

• Twills are generally used in heavier fabrics in whom durability is the Twills are generally used in heavier fabrics in whom durability is the most important requirement. They are generally used in suits, bottom most important requirement. They are generally used in suits, bottom weights, trouser, slacks, windbreakers and raincoats and work wears.weights, trouser, slacks, windbreakers and raincoats and work wears.

SATIN WEAVESATIN WEAVE

• The outstanding features of stain weave fabrics are lustrous, sleek The outstanding features of stain weave fabrics are lustrous, sleek appearance, luxurious hand and smooth to feel, and full-bodied drape. appearance, luxurious hand and smooth to feel, and full-bodied drape.

• Proper selection of yarns, yarn count and weave structure will Proper selection of yarns, yarn count and weave structure will contribute outstanding aesthetic qualities of fabric without affecting in contribute outstanding aesthetic qualities of fabric without affecting in durability and comfort.durability and comfort.

• Finer counts and short floats yield a compact fabric that will feel warm Finer counts and short floats yield a compact fabric that will feel warm in winter. Coarser counts, balanced construction and long float in weave in winter. Coarser counts, balanced construction and long float in weave structure increases the air permeability for medium weight wear.structure increases the air permeability for medium weight wear.

• Satin fabrics are widely used as linings for coats and jackets, because Satin fabrics are widely used as linings for coats and jackets, because they make it easy to slip on garment during wear. Satins are also they make it easy to slip on garment during wear. Satins are also formed in draperies and furniture, to which they lend appearance formed in draperies and furniture, to which they lend appearance formability.formability.

SATIN WEAVESATIN WEAVE

• The soil resistances of satin weave fabrics are lesser than plain or twill The soil resistances of satin weave fabrics are lesser than plain or twill weaves. Large numbers of yarns are predominated on the fabrics that weaves. Large numbers of yarns are predominated on the fabrics that invite the penetration of dirt particles. The soil resistance of weft satin invite the penetration of dirt particles. The soil resistance of weft satin or sateen’s are lesser than satins.or sateen’s are lesser than satins.

• The tensile strength and abrasion resistances of satin fabrics are lesser The tensile strength and abrasion resistances of satin fabrics are lesser than plains and twill weave; this is mainly due to larger floats in the than plains and twill weave; this is mainly due to larger floats in the weave structure. However, the compact structure (more yarns per inch) weave structure. However, the compact structure (more yarns per inch) tends to compensate the durability performance.tends to compensate the durability performance.

• Snagging is the common problem of stain weaves fabrics; this owing to Snagging is the common problem of stain weaves fabrics; this owing to long surface floats in the satin pattern.long surface floats in the satin pattern.

• In warp faced satins weaves, in warp direction will have more abrasion In warp faced satins weaves, in warp direction will have more abrasion resistance than weft direction.resistance than weft direction.

• Sateen and weft satins are less durable than warp satins. Because the Sateen and weft satins are less durable than warp satins. Because the floats are crosswise rather than warp wise. The sateen’s are made from floats are crosswise rather than warp wise. The sateen’s are made from spun yarns; these yarns have lower resistance to tearing.spun yarns; these yarns have lower resistance to tearing.

DOBBY WEAVESDOBBY WEAVES

• Simple geometric designs or figuring’s may be produced on a standard Simple geometric designs or figuring’s may be produced on a standard loom by the attachment of dobby mechanism. loom by the attachment of dobby mechanism.

• This device increases the number of harnesses that may be This device increases the number of harnesses that may be incorporated in the weaving of a fabric. incorporated in the weaving of a fabric.

• The harness capacity of dobby looms varies from 6-40 depending upon The harness capacity of dobby looms varies from 6-40 depending upon complicity of the dobby mechanism. complicity of the dobby mechanism.

• The extra harness allows the weaver to reproduce a small surface The extra harness allows the weaver to reproduce a small surface figuring’s or multi colored check or plaid.figuring’s or multi colored check or plaid.

JACQUARD WOVENSJACQUARD WOVENS

• Jacquard Shedding can be used suitably for producing beautiful Jacquard Shedding can be used suitably for producing beautiful elaborate and intricate ornamental designs in forms and multi colors in elaborate and intricate ornamental designs in forms and multi colors in which a large number of warp threads are required to be controlled which a large number of warp threads are required to be controlled individually.individually.

• A number of weaves may be used in combination to produce a jacquard A number of weaves may be used in combination to produce a jacquard design with the desired effects. design with the desired effects.

• Jacquard weaving is, however, an expensive form of weaving as it is Jacquard weaving is, however, an expensive form of weaving as it is accompanied with designing, card cutting, lacing. accompanied with designing, card cutting, lacing.

• The speed of the loom is lower than other types of looms.The speed of the loom is lower than other types of looms.

VELVET AND VELVETEENSVELVET AND VELVETEENS

VELVET: Velvet is a fabric woven from filament yarns, in which the pile is formed by the addition of extra warp yarns.

VELVETTEN: Velveteen is a fabric, usually woven from spun yarns, in which the pile is formed by the addition of extra weft yarns.

The ground cloth for either fabric may be woven with a plain or twill weave .the pile configuration may be produced with a v or w interlacing.


• The light and dark shading of the surface is produced by the The light and dark shading of the surface is produced by the difference in light reflected from ends and sides of the fabric. difference in light reflected from ends and sides of the fabric.

• The light that strikes the ends of the fabric is scattered and The light that strikes the ends of the fabric is scattered and absorbed, while the light that strikes the sides of the fibers are absorbed, while the light that strikes the sides of the fibers are reflected to the viewer’s eye. reflected to the viewer’s eye.

• Thus, areas in which the pile is standing up appear darker than Thus, areas in which the pile is standing up appear darker than those in which the pile is lying down do.those in which the pile is lying down do.

• The extra yarns used to produce the pile ad weight, stiffen the The extra yarns used to produce the pile ad weight, stiffen the fabric, and give a fuller body and more pleasing drape fabric, and give a fuller body and more pleasing drape characteristics.characteristics.

• The fibre ends from the pile yarn produce mild, pleasurable, The fibre ends from the pile yarn produce mild, pleasurable, prickling sensation. prickling sensation.

• The multitude of fibres that form the pile trap a large amount of The multitude of fibres that form the pile trap a large amount of air, which acts as insulator to give a cloth its warmth.air, which acts as insulator to give a cloth its warmth.


Dry cleaning is preferred to laundering because excessive Dry cleaning is preferred to laundering because excessive agitation in the laundering process may destruct the pile agitation in the laundering process may destruct the pile yarns. They must be ironed carefully with low pressure and yarns. They must be ironed carefully with low pressure and temperature setting. The excessive pressure and temperature temperature setting. The excessive pressure and temperature may crush the pile structure and produce a permanent shine may crush the pile structure and produce a permanent shine on the surface. It is necessary to brush velvets and velveteen’s, on the surface. It is necessary to brush velvets and velveteen’s, regularly to preserve their aesthetic properties. regularly to preserve their aesthetic properties.

VELVET AND VELVETEENSVELVET AND VELVETEENS• Durability performances of velvet and velveteen fabrics are dependent Durability performances of velvet and velveteen fabrics are dependent

on the construction of the ground cloth, and the interlacing of the pile. on the construction of the ground cloth, and the interlacing of the pile. • Filament yarns, such as silk or polyester provide greater durability than Filament yarns, such as silk or polyester provide greater durability than

spun yarns.spun yarns.• A compact, tightly woven ground cloth holds the pile yarn more firmly. A compact, tightly woven ground cloth holds the pile yarn more firmly.

Generally, other factors being equal, a twill construction is more Generally, other factors being equal, a twill construction is more durable than plain weave. durable than plain weave.

• Interlacing, because it holds the pile yarns under three weft yarns Interlacing, because it holds the pile yarns under three weft yarns instead only one, yields more durability.instead only one, yields more durability.

• To produce velveteen costs less than velvet because it is easier to insert To produce velveteen costs less than velvet because it is easier to insert extra weft yarns than to insert extra weft yarns. extra weft yarns than to insert extra weft yarns.

• Also, spun yarns are usually less expensive than filament yarns.Also, spun yarns are usually less expensive than filament yarns.• Velvet and velveteen fabrics provide a warm, luxurious hand for such Velvet and velveteen fabrics provide a warm, luxurious hand for such

end uses as full –length gowns and jackets for formal wear. end uses as full –length gowns and jackets for formal wear. • They are also popular for home furnishings, particularly in drapery and They are also popular for home furnishings, particularly in drapery and

upholstery fabric. In addition, because of their durability, velvets are upholstery fabric. In addition, because of their durability, velvets are recommended for higher - quality applications.recommended for higher - quality applications.

CORDUROYCORDUROY• Corduroy is a corded weft pile fabric it is produced by extra weft yarns, Corduroy is a corded weft pile fabric it is produced by extra weft yarns,

which float over one or more warp yarns. which float over one or more warp yarns.

• This fabric differs from velveteen is that the pile yarns are aligned so as This fabric differs from velveteen is that the pile yarns are aligned so as to give a warp wise corded stripe on the surface. to give a warp wise corded stripe on the surface.

• Corduroy may be produced with v or w interlacing. The ground cloth Corduroy may be produced with v or w interlacing. The ground cloth may be of twill or plain weave construction.may be of twill or plain weave construction.

• The raised portions of the pile are called wale. The raised portions of the pile are called wale.

• Varying the length of the floats when the pile yarns are inserting may Varying the length of the floats when the pile yarns are inserting may change the spacing between them.change the spacing between them.

• Corduroy is expected to be heavier fabric than velvet and velveteen. Corduroy is expected to be heavier fabric than velvet and velveteen.

• It is usually made with coarser yarns. This yields a fabric that has a It is usually made with coarser yarns. This yields a fabric that has a stiffer drape and rougher hand than velveteen corduroy is easily stiffer drape and rougher hand than velveteen corduroy is easily laundered and may be ironed.laundered and may be ironed.

Types of corduroyTypes of corduroy

NameName Wales / Wales / InchInch

Ozs/Ozs/Sq.Yd.Sq.Yd.

Characteristics / Characteristics / UsesUses

Feather waleFeather wale 18 – 1918 – 19 55 Shallow Pile, Shallow Pile, FlexibleFlexibleTops / BottomsTops / Bottoms

Pin walePin wale 14 – 1614 – 16 77 Shallow Pile, Shallow Pile, FlexibleFlexibleTops & BottomsTops & Bottoms

Mid waleMid wale 1111 1010 Heavier & Less Heavier & Less FlexibleFlexibleInnerwear & Innerwear & Bottoms, Bottoms, UpholsteryUpholstery

Wide waleWide wale 3 - 93 - 9 1212 Heavier & Less Heavier & Less Flexible, Most Flexible, Most DurableDurableCoats, UpholsteryCoats, Upholstery

TERRY FABRICSTERRY FABRICS• Terry fabric is a weft pile fabric. It is manufactured with extra highly Terry fabric is a weft pile fabric. It is manufactured with extra highly

twisted warp yarns that are held slack during part of the weaving twisted warp yarns that are held slack during part of the weaving process. process.

• Terry cloth is used for toweling and beachwear. Terry cloth is used for toweling and beachwear.

• The pile traps air and maintain body temperature. The pile traps air and maintain body temperature.

• Since purpose is to keep the body dry, terry cloth is made of fibers, such Since purpose is to keep the body dry, terry cloth is made of fibers, such as cotton, that absorbs moisture readily.as cotton, that absorbs moisture readily.

• The durability of the terry cloth is dependent upon the yarn count of The durability of the terry cloth is dependent upon the yarn count of the ground cloth. the ground cloth.

• The twist in the pile yarns, and the density of the pile. The twist in the pile yarns, and the density of the pile.

• A thick, closely spaced pile woven into a tightly constructed ground A thick, closely spaced pile woven into a tightly constructed ground cloth gives the longest wear. cloth gives the longest wear.

• Terrycloth is more susceptible to snagging and pulling than the velvets Terrycloth is more susceptible to snagging and pulling than the velvets and corduroy because of the loops of the pile remains uncut.and corduroy because of the loops of the pile remains uncut.

SEERSUCKERSEERSUCKER• In weaving two warp beams are used to produce this fabric. In weaving two warp beams are used to produce this fabric.

• The yarns on one beam are held at regular tension and those on the The yarns on one beam are held at regular tension and those on the other beam are held at slack tension. other beam are held at slack tension.

• The yarns are wound onto the two warp beams in-groups of 10 to 16 for The yarns are wound onto the two warp beams in-groups of 10 to 16 for a narrow stripe. a narrow stripe.

• As the reed beats the weft yarn into place, the slack yarns crinkle or As the reed beats the weft yarn into place, the slack yarns crinkle or buckle to form a puckered stripe adds the regular – tensioned yarns buckle to form a puckered stripe adds the regular – tensioned yarns form the flat stripe. form the flat stripe.

• The stripes are always in the warp direction. It is a low profit, high cost The stripes are always in the warp direction. It is a low profit, high cost item because of its slow weaving speed. item because of its slow weaving speed.

• Seersuckers are made in plain colors, stripes, plaids and prints. Seersuckers are made in plain colors, stripes, plaids and prints. Seersucker is used in summer suiting. Dresses, curtains and sportswear.Seersucker is used in summer suiting. Dresses, curtains and sportswear.

PIQUE WEAVESPIQUE WEAVES• Pique weave produces a fabric with ridges, called Wales or cords, that Pique weave produces a fabric with ridges, called Wales or cords, that

are held up by floats on the back. are held up by floats on the back. • Cords or Wales usually run in the lengthwise direction. Cords or Wales usually run in the lengthwise direction. • Stuffer yarns are laid under the ridges in better quality pique fabrics to Stuffer yarns are laid under the ridges in better quality pique fabrics to

emphasize the roundness, an their presence or absence is one way of emphasize the roundness, an their presence or absence is one way of determining quality. determining quality.

• The stuffer yarns are not interlaced with the surface yarns of the fabric The stuffer yarns are not interlaced with the surface yarns of the fabric and may be easily removed when analyzing a swatch of fabric. and may be easily removed when analyzing a swatch of fabric.

• Pique fabrics are woven on either dobby or jacquard loom depending Pique fabrics are woven on either dobby or jacquard loom depending on the complexity of the design. on the complexity of the design.

• Pique fabrics are more resistant to wrinkling and have more body than Pique fabrics are more resistant to wrinkling and have more body than flat fabrics. flat fabrics.

• Better quality pique fabrics are made with long staple combed yarns Better quality pique fabrics are made with long staple combed yarns and have at least one stuffer yarn.and have at least one stuffer yarn.

• Bedford cord is a heavy fabric with wide warp cords used for Bedford cord is a heavy fabric with wide warp cords used for bedspreads, upholstery, window treatments, slacks, and uniforms. bedspreads, upholstery, window treatments, slacks, and uniforms.

• Its spun warp yarns are coarser than the weft yarns.Its spun warp yarns are coarser than the weft yarns.

CREPE WEAVESCREPE WEAVES• Crepe is a class of weaves that present a distinct weave effect but Crepe is a class of weaves that present a distinct weave effect but

give the cloth the appearance of being sprinkled with small pots give the cloth the appearance of being sprinkled with small pots or seeds. or seeds.

• The appearance resembles crepe made from high twist yarns. The appearance resembles crepe made from high twist yarns.

• Fabrics made on a loom with a dobby attachment. Fabrics made on a loom with a dobby attachment.

• Some are variation of satin weave, with weft yarns forming the Some are variation of satin weave, with weft yarns forming the irregular floats. irregular floats.

• Some are even-sided and some have a decided warp effect. Some are even-sided and some have a decided warp effect.

CREPE WEAVESCREPE WEAVES

• Sand crepe is a common medium to heavy weight crepe weaves Sand crepe is a common medium to heavy weight crepe weaves fabric of either spun or filament yarns. fabric of either spun or filament yarns.

• It has a repeat pattern of 16 warp yarns and 16 wefts yarns and It has a repeat pattern of 16 warp yarns and 16 wefts yarns and requires 16 harnesses. requires 16 harnesses.

• No float is greater than two yarns in length. Moss crepe is a No float is greater than two yarns in length. Moss crepe is a combination of high twist crepe yarns and crepe weave. combination of high twist crepe yarns and crepe weave.

• The yarns are plied yarns with one ply made of high twist single The yarns are plied yarns with one ply made of high twist single yarn. Moss crepe is used in dress and blouses.yarn. Moss crepe is used in dress and blouses.

Woven Fabrics

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