Word Vietnam March 2016

THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS

WORDVIETNAM.COM

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰCVIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 3TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS

Through Our Eyes

2 | Word March 2016 | wordvietnam.com

50

84 108

THE TALK

010 / Down the DrainIt’s not rising sea levels that are the problem, but sinking land

011 / The Big FiveMarch = festival

BRIEFINGS

12 / The Death of the Corner ShopThe convenience stores are taking over

14 / How to Out a Hacker… and almost get their name and address

16 / Game for a LaughThis month, comedy is coming to Saigon big time

20 / The Saigon Cyclo

ChallengeThe hippest charity fundraiser in town

26 / The Ta Lai TrophyVietnam’s only quadrathlon is scheduled for a return

INSIDER

46 / The Many Faces of VietnamFrom stonemason to photographer, Trung Del has seen (and shot) it all

50 / Through Our EyesVietnam through the eye of a lens

84 / The Beautiful PeopleVietnamese models in Vietnamese environments

90 / When Backs are TurnedTurning portrait photos on their head

96 / The Honey HuntersA trip into the jungles of Bangladesh

102 / A Vietnamese MosaicVietnam is a country of contrasts

EAT & DRINK

108 / Saigon HighEverything you need to know about the not-so-humble skybar

118 / Mystery Diner HanoiThis month’s review: Rico

120 / Street Snacker HanoiOn the menu: banh troi tau

122/ Mystery Diner HCMCAn Italian restaurant with aspirations

124 / Street Snacker HCMCTime to go vegetarian

ContentsMar. 2016

wordvietnam.com | March 2016 Word | 3


TRAVEL

126/ Bagan with a HolgaA trip to the spiritual heart of Myanmar

134 / Notes from Another CityFestival time in Vung Tau

138 / The Motorbike DiariesMatt and Nemo get to Sikkim

HANOI

38 / To-Do List

42 / Just In

140 / Hanoi City Guide

144 / Day Tripper

150 / Bar Stool

156 / Coffee Cup

158 / Top Eats 1

160 / Top Eats 2

164 / City Map

HCMC

30 / To-Do List

36 / Just In

166 / HCMC City Guide

180 / Bar Stool

188 / Top Eats 1

192 / Top Eats 2

184 / City Map

COLUMNS

146 / Book Buff

148 / The Alchemist

152 / The Therapist

154 / Student Eye

162 / Medical Buff

168/ Business Buff

170 / Body and Temple

172 / The Gym Diaries

184 / Amazing Grapes

186 / Know Your City

194 / A World of Good

FINAL SAY

198 / The Last Cake Mould CutterOne craftsman tries to preserve a dying art 200 / Ten 10François and Sébastien from NOI Pictures

126

198138

ContentsMar. 2016

Do you want your children to realise their full potential?

The ABCIS offers an outstanding teaching and learning environment to help your child rise to the challenge of an ever-changing global community.

www.theabcis.com

Do you want your children to realise their full potential?

The ABCIS offers an outstanding teaching and learning environment to help your child rise to the challenge of an ever-changing global community.

www.theabcis.com


CONTRIBUTORS

NICK ROSS Chief Editor

[email protected]

MADS MONSENCreative Director

[email protected]

KYLE PHANROYPhoto Editor

[email protected]

FRANCIS XAVIERStaff Reporter & [email protected]

JESSE MEADOWSStaff Writer (Hanoi)

[email protected]

VU HA KIM VYEditorial Manager

[email protected]

JON ASPINStaff Editor

[email protected]

JULIE VOLAStaff Photographer

[email protected]

OWEN SALISBURYStaff Writer

[email protected]

NGUYEN LOCLayout Designer

[email protected]

EDITORIAL

ADMINISTRATION

Special thanks to Kieran Crowe, Suzette Mitchell, Tim Mullet of Saigon Children's Charity, Belinda Smith, ISSP, ISHCMC — American Academy, George Abraham of Ta Lai Longhouse, Grant Keys of Vietnam Swans, Rob Brewer, Trung Del, Natalia Martinez, Vu Bao Khanh, Morgan Ommer, Thiery Beyne, Tim Barker, Ehrin Macksey, Don Wills, Matt Dworzanczyk, Truong from Bookworm, Karen

Gay, Kate Robinson, To Thu Phuong, Billy Gray, Douglas Holwerda, Michael E Santos, Shane Dillon, Phil Kelly, Jim Cawood, Ed Haysom, Dana McNairn, Emily Petsko, François Carlet-Soulages,

Sébastien Löffler, Fuji Pham and David Legard

Word is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners.

© Word - Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609689 or Ms Trinh on +84 936 269244

The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

ADVERTISING

BAO ROSS General Director

[email protected]

CHAU GIANG Office Assistant

[email protected]

[email protected]@wordvietnam.com

[email protected]@wordvietnam.com

TRINH BUISales Manager

[email protected]

© Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của Ấn phẩm Word của C.Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. Mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật Sở Hữu Trí Tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam.

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH & ẨM THỰCISBN: 978-604-77-2122-1

JON ASPINStaff EditorAt school I used to spend hours looking at those oversized Time Life photojournalism books about war. There were several famous images that I can never forget. More recently I recall the picture of Felix Baumgartner jumping from a helium balloon in low orbit to promote an energy drink. What a world!

TRUNG DELContributorThe photo book that inspired and moved me so much is The Suffering of Light by Alex Webb.

VI PHAMContributorThe most touching one for me is the wedding photo of my parents. They looked so happy in the picture and I feel thankful for the photographer who took it so well to capture the moment and the feeling, although I’ve never known who he was.

JESS MEADOWSWriterThere’s this book called Closer by Elinor Carucci, where she makes these really intimate photos of herself and her family. It made me realise that photography is not only a tool for examining the world around you, but for looking closer at your own life, too.

NICK ROSSChief EditorI remember years ago the famous image of the Bosnian Muslims behind barbed wire in Srebrenica during the war in Yugoslavia. The photo turned out to be a set up — the people were not actually hemmed in by barbed wire. This was not a concentration camp. But it made me realise the ability of photography to change people’s perspectives.

MADS MONSENCreative DirectorSimilar experience; Roger Fenton’s image of what they dubbed “The Valley of the Shadow of Death” where they moved cannon balls around for a ‘better picture’. It made me realise that photography is simply an illusion and can never be a truthful medium. It will always be biased by the person creating the image.

OWEN SALISBURYStaff WriterAny portrait that makes me feel like I know the person without ever having met them; any landscape that makes me homesick for a place I’ve never been; any food photo that makes me hungry.

JULIE VOLAPhotographerI would have to say Ansel Adams and his spectacular landscapes.

This month we asked our team to tell us about the photos that have moved them the most.

TRANG LEChief Accountant

[email protected]

CÔNG TY TNHH MTV NHÀ XUẤT BẢN THẾ GIỚITrụ sở chính: 46 Trần Hưng Đạo, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà NộiTel: 04.3825.3841 – Fax: 04.3826.9578Email: [email protected]: www.thegioipublishers.vn

LIÊN KẾT XUẤT BẢN VÀ PHÁT HÀNHCÔNG TY CP TM–DV–QC–TRUYỀN THÔNG DƯƠNG HUỲNH87/21/6 Đường Số 4 Cư Xá Đô Thành, Phường 4, Q. 3, TP. HCM. ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971Email: [email protected]: www.wordvietnam.com

CHỊU TRÁCH NHIỆM XUẤT BẢN:TS. Trần Đoàn LâmBiên tập: Phạm Trần LongThiết kế mỹ thuật: Bao RossSửa bản in: Nick RossBìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

In 15.000 cuốn, khổ 20.5 x 27cmIn tại Công Ty TNHH MTV In Trần Phú71 – 73 – 75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.comGiấy xác nhận ĐKXB số: 61-2016/CXBIPH/31-01/ThG Quyết định xuất bản số: 84/QĐ-ThG cấp ngày 29 tháng 02 năm 2016. In xong và nộp lưu chiểu tháng 03 năm 2016. Mã ISBN: 978-604-77-2122-1 SÁCH CHUYÊN ĐỀ QUẢNG CÁO


Do you have any comments that you would

like to air? If so, reach out

and touch us at nick@

wordvietnam.com — we’re at your fingertips.

THIS MONTH'S COVERPhoto by Kyle Phanroy

Design by DH Advertising

THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS

WORDVIETNAM.COM

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰCVIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 3TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS

Through Our Eyes

Have Your SayDo you have any comments? Then let us know on Facebook — facebook.com/word.vietnam — or via Twitter, @wordvietnam. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts, we look forward to hearing from you.

About nine years ago we put together an article on

Saigon’s parks. Our photographer of the time was feeling lazy, and rather than getting off his bike, he stopped in front of the Cultural Park on Truong Dinh, and took the images from his vehicle. The result was a set of photos that had his bike’s wing mirror in the frame. It was appalling.

The problem we had when we started Word

and its predecessors, Saigon Inside Out and then Asialife, was that the two main people who created the publication were people who worked with words. Photography for us was of the point-and-shoot variety, and while one of the two founders was also a layout designer, at �rst we didn’t quite get the need for strong photography and design with �air.

We’ve already gone through a decade of publishing magazines in Vietnam, and in April we hit issue 100 of Word. These days, photography and design is as important as words, and the magazine looks far better than it did 10 years ago or even �ve.

On the design front,

there are a few people to thank for that — previous art directors like Jim Abril and Paolo Maling, and our present creative director, Mads Monsen. Our layout designer, Nguyen Loc, is the fastest designer you’ll ever see. He’s also one of the most resilient.

For photos, right now we have a team to be proud of. Kyle Phanroy is our photo editor — unfortunately, he’s leaving this month to seek a career path back in the US. In Hanoi we’ve got the super organised and wonderfully creative Julie Vola, who works together with another writer-cum-photographer with �air, Jesse Meadows. Down south, Francis Xavier has been shooting for us for more than four

years now. Her attention to detail is phenomenal. And then we’ve got the freelancers — Vu Bao Khanh, Trung Del, Fuji Pham, Natalia Martinez — as well as people like me, Nick Ross, and our staff writer, Owen Salisbury.

While words still remain vitally important to us — we continue to pride ourselves on our content — this month’s issue is about paying homage to our people behind the lens. Together with the designers, the curators who put their images on the page, they have done and continue to do a wonderful job for us.

The days of wing mirrors creeping into photos are well and truly gone. — Nick Ross, Chief Editor

ThePrelude

InboxGetting BetterI just want to say congrats. The last few issues of word have been so readable and interesting but the February issue is really exciting! The new vibe of Saigon is absolutely jumping off your pages!

I have been trying to put together a book about Saigon for two years but the youth-led culture has been changing so fast that I haven’t been able to commit to print. The minute I do — it will be out of date!

Thanks for a great read! — BM

Notes from Another City: Vung Tau(February 2016, page 134)Hey cool article... I have visited Vung Tau and you described it pretty well. The main reason I visited the place was because I don’t like touristy resorts and the beaches there were exactly what I was hoping for. I loved swimming at Back Beach with the locals, and the food stalls on the beach were great. — DG

I’ve been to Vung Tau a few times. The locals leave so much rubbish on the beach it’s disgusting to see, especially during the night when the street food vendors setup on the sand. Filthy. I wish locals would have more respect for the place. Learn to use a rubbish bin. Geez… — DK

Like the place. Fun to go there in the vintage hydrofoils and the seafood is excellent. — NM

A total dump — KP

Sounds like a great place. I can’t wait to get there. — MB

Don’t tell everyone. We like the fact no one goes. We get the beach to ourselves. — DL

A Short History of Thao Dien(February 2016, page 52)I was the �rst expat to live outside the compound (at the time only diplomats and of�cials) in Thao dien in 1991… The other ong tay was Rodolphe an adventurer who built a 20-metre boat. — SF

Interesting article. Thanks for investigating and sharing! — SJ

No Thao Dien is not the wealthiest area in Saigon. Phu My Hung surpasses that by a mile. — WAE

52 | Word February 2016 | wordvietnam.com

INSIDER HCMC

A Short Historyof Thao Dien

Insider

wordvietnam.com | February 2016 Word | 53

From sleepy north-of-Saigon backwater to a new

city, the expat area of Thao Dien has developed

beyond recognition. Words and Photos by Nick Ross

Giang is taking me on a tour of Thao Dien. But we’re not doing a who’s who of the wealthy expat area of Saigon that we know

today. This is the Thao Dien of the past, one that has gone from being a small outpost on the other side of the Saigon River to a new hub on the edge of Saigon.

According to paperwork on display in the 80-year-old Thao Dien Temple on Street 41, the hamlet was originally called Ich Phu. Established in 1852, after the arrival of the French it was incorporated into the newly formed province of Bien Hoa. That was in the 1860s. In 1893, boundaries were once again redrawn. This time Ich Phu found itself integrated into the newly formed district of Thu Duc. Accessible only by boat until the 1961 completion of the Saigon Bridge, no-one quite knows when the name Ich Phu was lost — by the time Giang moved there in 1973, it was already a name of the past.

“There was no highway,” he recalls of his early days in the area. “When you came


EASTER SUNDAY BRUNCH

SUNDAY 27 MARCH 2016

Complimentary Oysters with yourMöet & Chandon

38 Nguyen U Di, Thao Dien, D2 HCMC

W thedecksaigon.com

Möet & Chandon made in France — 12% Alcohol Vol


In mid–2014, journalist Hong Van travelled from Ho Chi Minh City to Ca Mau, the southwesterly tip of the Mekong Delta, to write a piece for futureearth.org. On her journey she met a fish trader, Le Thanh

Liem, who told her of a common problem faced by inhabitants of the Delta; flooding. He had already had to move house three times due to floods and rising water levels. “If the water keeps on getting higher each year,” he said, “we will move further inland and build the house even higher.”

Liem’s experience is not uncommon. The Mekong Delta faces three threats; rising sea levels — an already well-documented scenario; the fact that it is sinking, a phenomenon known as subsidence, and the building of huge dams upriver in Laos and China which are preventing the �ow of silt which created the Delta in the �rst place.

According to a recent satellite-based study by Norway’s Geotechnical Institute (NGI) and Vietnam’s Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development, the land surface of areas like Ca Mau has fallen by up to 70cm since 2000.

“Since the average surface of Ca Mau province is only 1 to 1.5 metres above sea level, the consequences of such subsidence will be catastrophic, and make the province uninhabitable within a few decades,” said NGI Technical Director Philos Kjell Karlsrud.

A Wall of MangroveIn Can Gio, the most southeasterly district of Ho Chi Minh City, Le Duc Tuan is the long-term chief of the Can Gio Mangrove Research Center. His job is to keep the mangroves — a UNESCO-listed biosphere reserve — intact, even as pressure builds to bring construction to the area as part of Ho Chi Minh City’s relentless expansion.

In an interview he gave to wwno.org in early 2015, he said that the mangroves are like a “big natural wall to protect Ho Chi Minh City from storms. And some big storms come to the coastal zones of Vietnam. But Can Gio and Ho Chi Minh City are not affected so much, because of this natural green wall.”

The present construction rush across Ho Chi Minh City seems to be ignoring the possibility that Vietnam’s largest metropolis is walking towards an environmental disaster. Take away the mangroves of Can Gio and it could get even worse.

That Sinking FeelingAccording to Ho Chi Minh City’s Department of Natural Resources and Environment, the city is set to sink between 12 and 20cm between 2013 and 2020. In an interview with Thanh Nien, Ho Long Phi, director of the Center of Water Management and Climate Change (WACC), provided another perspective. Many areas in the city are sinking between 1.5cm and 3cm per year, he explained, about three times as quickly as sea levels are rising.

Yet Phi’s estimates could be quite conservative. According to a 2015 report by the International Association of Hydrological Sciences, subsidence in Ho Chi Minh City is as much as 8cm a year. Roads such as Nguyen Huu Canh in Binh Thanh, states an article in Tuoi Tre, sank 70cm to 80cm over a recent two-year period.

Apart from the clearing of mangroves in District 7, Binh Chanh and District 2, mass urbanization and the over-pumping of groundwater resources are the main problems mentioned in a study conducted by Dr. Le Xuan Thuyen of the HCMC University of Natural Sciences.

None of this is new — the Thai capital Bangkok has been sinking for decades, for identical reasons, and its street level could be largely underwater by 2100, studies suggest. So could Ho Chi Minh City.

Taking ActionThroughout human history, some societies have learnt lessons from the errors of others. Some haven’t. Vietnam, it seems, is making strides to avoid an environmental catastrophe, but how much is really being done and, more importantly, enforced, is unknown.

A recent Climate Adaptation Strategy document prepared together with the City of Rotterdam suggests that subsidence is being taken seriously. And certainly the work done on upgrading the city’s sewerage and water systems over the past 15 years will take pressure off the excessive usage of groundwater. Likewise, the present ‘swampland’ developments in District 2 are being built on raised ground in an attempt to avoid �ooding.

But when there’s money to be made, �nancial necessity talks more than common sense. How this battle between environmental prudence and individual pro�t will play out is yet to be seen. — Nick Ross

THE TALK LEAD ARTICLE

Down the DrainIt’s not only rising sea levels we have to worry about, but subsidence

TalkLead


BigThe5

Lots ‘n lots of comedy,

an Irish festival,

a French festival and

a cyclo race. March is

shaping up very nicely, thank you very much

a)

Tim

e t

o la

ugh!

A r

ece

nt

com

edy

show

in H

anoi h

eadlin

ed b

y G

lenn W

ool

b)

St.

Patr

ick’

s D

ay

is u

pon u

s th

is m

onth

and e

ven t

he p

igs

are

com

ing o

ut

to p

lay

c) It

’s M

arc

h w

hic

h m

eans

it’s

tim

e f

or

the S

aig

on C

yclo

Challe

nge

Comedy Gets Itself a Festival

HCMC, Q1Mar. 5, Mar. 15 and Mar. 16

We all love to laugh, right? Well this month courtesy of Magners Irish Cider we’ll be splitting our sides.

A comedy festival is here and kicking off at deciBel on Friday, Mar. 4 will be the Big V Comedy Competition. This is followed by the Big V �nals on Tuesday, Mar. 15 at Saigon Ranger and then a night given over to the pros on Wednesday, Mar. 16 at Phatty’s.

This one’s gonna be big and not only will it celebrate the laughter that both amateur and pro stand-ups have been giving us for over four years, it will also do its best to raise the comedic bar.

To �nd our more turn to page 16 and page 32

New Zealand Food and Wine Festival

HCMC, Q7Mar. 12

The New Zealand Wine and Food Festival has been running for years and remains one of Saigon’s favourite bashes.

Imported New Zealand wines, Kiwi-style food, a chance to relax on the lawn, family fun and lots of live music are part of the ample spread. All making this an event

not to be missed.For more information

click on facebook.com/wineandfoodfestivalnewzealandhcmc or turn to page 32

St Patrick’s DayHanoi and HCMC

Mar. 17, Mar. 18 and Mar. 19

St. Paddy’s is going big this year in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City with not one but four events.

It all starts on St. Patrick’s Day itself with a grand old Irish craic at Dublin Gate Irish Pub in Saigon. The following day, Hanoi gets its celebratory turn, with the St. Patrick Rocks Concert at the American Club. Headlined by the award-winning band, Hipster, expect a great night out with food, music and lots of good entertainment.

On Saturday, Mar. 19, the Intercontinental Westlake in Hanoi will host the St. Patrick’s Gala Ball featuring live music, a great Irish meal, Irish coffee, and a free �ow of beer, wine, and Magners Irish Cider. And not to be outdone, Saigon Outcast will entertain the St Patrick’s Day Festival with All-Ireland Flute, Concertina, Fiddle and Irish Dance Champions Cian Kearns, Niamh O’Sullivan, Claire Walsh and Mark Nestor �own in all the way from Ireland.

You know you want to take part in this one. So, for more info, turn to page 32, page 33 and 38

The Saigon Cyclo ChallengeHCMC, Celadon City

Saturday, Mar. 19

The cyclo �rst arrived here in the early 20th century and in the years since it has become an iconic slice of this country’s history.

The Saigon Cyclo Challenge has been paying homage to the humble cyclo since 2001 with an annual team-building tournament organized by Saigon Children’s Charity. The 2016 version involves a cheerleading competition, lucky draws, a best-in-show cyclo decoration award and team challenges highlighting the charity’s work; it will all culminate in the Saigon Cyclo Challenge Grand Final at some time around 4.15pm.

For further information or to register your team go to to saigonchildren.com. For full details turn to page 20

Gout de FranceHanoi, Danang and HCMC

Monday, Mar. 21

More than two dozen restaurants in Vietnam will take part in the Good France culinary event to be held on Mar. 21. A worldwide phenomenon with the participation of over 1,500 restaurants around the globe, each restaurant creates a special menu for the night with meals following a set pattern: aperitif and canapés, starter, main course (s), cheese, dessert (s), French wines and champagnes.

For the full list of participating restaurants and the menu for the day, click on goodfrance.com

a

bc

1

2

3

4

5


BriefingsNational

The time of the convenience store is nigh. But will the corner shop survive?The time of the convenience store is nigh. But will the corner shop survive?

The Death of the Corner Shop

The time of the convenience store is nigh. But will the corner shop survive?The time of the convenience store is nigh. But will the corner shop survive?The time of the convenience store is nigh. But will the corner shop survive?The time of the convenience store is nigh. But will the corner shop survive?The time of the convenience store is nigh. But will the corner shop survive?The time of the convenience store is nigh. But will the corner shop survive?The time of the convenience store is nigh. But will the corner shop survive?

Family Mart. Circle K. Vinmart. We’ve all seen them, their bright neon-lit facades beckoning us inside with promises of cold beer, dried

noodles, ice cream, and maybe even a suspect-looking steamed bun which has been sitting on a heated rack since time immemorial, slowly incubating enough bacteria to take down a cow. We wander inside after a few beers, hungry and looking for a snack. Many of us also leave hungry, as the selection of fare is limited.

Despite this, the success and popularity of these chain convenience stores is obvious. You can hardly walk 10 steps down a street in District 1 or 2 without tripping over a Circle K or a Family Mart, and they are beginning to spread to other districts and further a�eld to Hanoi; in the past six

months, Circle K has descended on the capital with force. Meanwhile, the relatively new Vinmart is hoping to prevail through diversi�cation by positioning itself as a slightly more middle-class version of its convenience store brethren.

All for OneSo what does this mean for the humble family-run corner shop? For those of us living in more far-�ung and less glamorous parts of the metropolis, these vendors are cornerstones of everyday life. You know the type; dusty, cramped stores with shelves piled high with a variety of goods, where you can pick up pretty much anything you need and plenty that you don’t. The mother of the family sells you ice, the dad �ogs batteries, and the kid who should probably

be at school works the till. Did I say till? I meant enormous wad of cash produced from the teen’s pocket, from which all change is provided.

Need to wash your fancy shirt for a hot date? Nip down to the corner shop for detergent. Date went better than expected? Nip down to the corner shop for protection. Pooped yourself during the date and your prospective lover �ed in disgust? Nip down to the corner shop for some beer to console yourself. And possibly more detergent.

Unfortunately, as the big chains start to encroach on the territory of the humble corner shop, it begs the question: is this the beginning of the end for the mom and pop stores? Perhaps the answer can be found by looking at neighbouring countries in Asia.


Circle K in To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi

Squirreled AwayIn Bangkok, there are few mom and pop stores remaining, and my colleagues in Thailand estimate that even in smaller villages about two-thirds of convenience stores are chains. According to one Thailand-based expat, the only reason they survive is because they sell beer after hours. Meanwhile in South Korea, 7-Eleven (an American-Japanese venture) has become more widespread than the native Korean GS25 convenience stores, in a sad case reminiscent of the �endish grey squirrel becoming more populous than the indigenous red squirrel in the British Isles. Well, sort of.

Singapore, that great bastion of unbridled capitalism, has naturally welcomed 7-Elevens with open arms,

leaving barely any breathing room for traditional corner shops, which have been banished to the outer suburbs. And in Shanghai, there is a Family Mart on practically every street, with C-Store providing some competition in terms of market share.

This pattern of chain stores out-muscling the little guy is very likely to be replicated here in Vietnam. As the Circle Ks and Family Marts sprout up on every street, they will leave very little market share for traditional corner shops. Already dominant in Saigon, the chains are spreading through Hanoi, and it’s a safe bet that once they have achieved dominance in the big cities, they will start opening outlets in the smaller towns in the provinces.

Corner shops will �nd it dif�cult to

compete, as the chain stores have volume buying power and also offer a greater variety of products; for example, Circle K stocks San Pellegrino aranciata and Family Mart offers 15 different brands of shampoo. Moreover, the chains can afford to buy up the best shop locations.

This is likely to be exacerbated by the arrival of a shiny new competitor, 7-Eleven, which is rumoured to be launching in Vietnam by 2018. Sadly, it seems that the days of the corner shop are numbered. It’s not all bad news though; as anybody who has been to Bangkok can attest, 7-Eleven provides delicious ham and cheese toasted sandwiches, which solves the aforementioned post-beer munchies problem at least. — Kieran Crowe


BriefingsInternational

How to Out a Hacker…and almost get their name and address

When Nguyen Minh Chau (name changed) had her Gmail account compromised, the hacker went through the

standard procedures to try and extort more passwords — they sent out a fake Dropbox logo with a link for all of Chau’s contacts to download the �le. Clicking on the link would mean the chance of someone else getting hacked.

Seeing the link and knowing Chau I replied to the email with three question marks. I wanted to know if this was real or if it was fake. The email exchange that followed made it very clear that this was a sham.

We all know about those dark, nameless souls who use the anonymity of the internet to achieve unsavoury goals. They hack into Facebook or email accounts, plant malware and make use of any success they have to extort money. The big boys, the ones who get past the security of major websites or government agencies, make the headlines. The small ones don’t, but they’re just as lethal. These are people who lead a strange and dark existence. When it pays it pays, when it doesn’t, they try someone else. To arrest them requires whole teams of investigators to out them from their cloud of secrecy.

This is how the conversation went:

The

orig

inal D

ropbo

x link se

nt b

y the

hacke

r

The original Dropbox link sent by the hacker

**********Dear Nick,I’m sorry to bother you, I am in a terrible situation right now and am going to need your urgent help. I am in Limassol, Cyprus at the moment and I misplaced my bag containing all my vital items, phone and money.

I’m trying to sort things out with the necessary authorities but still need a little help from you.

Thank you very much!

**********

Sure, I can help. What’s your name?

**********

Dear Nick,I’m Chau again. Thanks for your reply, it’s a terrible experience but i am physically okay. So far I’ve contacted the embassy and they are helping me out with my documentation but I urgently need about €900 to sort some bills and make every necessary arrangement to leave here.

I will pay back as soon as I leave here. Please let me know if you can help.

**********

Oh, okay. Glad to hear you’re �ne.I’m sure the embassy will be able to lend you

some money to get home, although surely it will cost more than 900 euro.

Embassies are usually good like that.Although, I have to say, I didn’t realise Vietnam

had an embassy in Cyprus. Things must be changing, eh?

**********And so the conversation continued until I

agreed to send the fake Chau some money.


The Pay-OffLike a kidnapper trying to extort a ransom, this is where the scam starts to fall apart; the taking of the money. With increasing protections in place to prevent global money �ows being used for deceitful purposes, to get money sent through — in this case Western Union — the receiver has to have ID and a name. Here are the details they sent me:

Name: Nguyen Minh ChauAddress: Binod Dahal Souzan Theodosiou, 316 Ayio Andreou Street, Limassol, CyprusPostal Code: 3150I will need a scanned copy of the receipt and tracking number of the transfer after transfer is made to get the money here.

It was clear to see what was going on here. The name of the hacker — or, possibly the fake name of the hacker — was the �rst four words of the address. Binod Dahal Souzan Theodosiou. Whatever ID they had, whether fake or real, would contain this name. That way they could claim that the name on the actual transfer, Nguyen Minh Chau, was a mistake.

But when I started doing some research on this name, I got a little surprise.

Binod or Vinod is a Hindu name meaning happiness. It’s found in India and Nepal. The second name, Dahal, is Nepalese. Souzan is an Arabic girl’s name while Theodosiou is Greek or Greek Cypriot. Whoever was doing this was most likely using fake ID as well as a fake name. Also, their English was good. So there was a story to this that was perhaps not evident in the name.

So, had I outed this person? Not at all. But it made me feel that I had to write about

Typica

l em

ails se

nt b

y pe

ople

trying to

ge

t you to

clickIt's a

dve

rts like th

ese

that a

re th

e re

aso

n yo

u sh

ould

be ca

refu

l where

you b

row

se a

nd w

hat yo

u click o

n

it. Being hacked or having your email or Facebook accounts compromised is like being burgled, it’s just not always treated like that. To prevent burglary you need to

up your security and not do anything stupid like leaving your doors unlocked or your windows open. In other words, don’t click on strange-looking links. — Nick Ross


BriefingsHCMC

Game for a Laugh

This month, stand-up comedy gets itself a festival

By the time you read this, the first stage of the Magners-sponsored Big V Comedy Competition will most likely be done and

humorously dusted. On Friday Mar. 4 at deciBel, more than 15 amateur comics are getting three minutes of stage time to try

and earn themselves a coveted place in the finals.

That Vietnam has got so far in the amateur stand-up stakes suggests the development of a vibrant scene. And vibrant it is. In the capital, the Hanoi Comedy Collective has been bringing in the laughter for a good three years. Together with Son Tinh Lounge and CAMA ATK, as well as professional gagmeisters �own in from overseas, they’ve been transporting one of the English-speaking world’s favourite art forms to Vietnam.

Down south has also had its fair share of action. Stand-Up Saigon has been plying the amateur scene for over four years, while Saigon International Comedy has �own in pros from all four corners of the comedic globe to perform at Hard Rock Café, Cargo Bar, Phatty’s and Game On. More recently, Diana and Brian Do Shows have emerged, with nights like Virgin Jokes and Rancid Comedy. It is clear that something is brewing.

Which is where Magners Irish Cider comes in. The main sponsors of comedy throughout Europe, over the last three years they’ve brought their marketing clout to Southeast Asia to put on an annual festival. This year, the six destinations taking part are Hong Kong, Manila, Boracay, Ho Chi Minh City, Bangkok and Singapore. If you’re

wondering about Hanoi, the Vietnamese capital is pencilled in for 2017.

The Big VBut back to the competition. What makes it important is not just the chance for comedians to show what they can do, but

the prizes. The overall winner of the Mar. 4 show will be �own to Singapore to perform at the regional �nals on Mar. 11 — the winner of this particular festival will get an all-expenses paid trip to the Edinburgh Fringe. Then the three �nalists from Mar. 4 with return to perform a second time, this time at Saigon Ranger on Tuesday, Mar. 15. There they will compete for 10 million dong’s worth of prize money. The stakes are high — without Magners this would have been impossible.

“Comedy competitions are really good fun, and can start the participants out on an interesting journey,” says Northern Ireland-born comic, Martin Mor, who will be hosting the show at Saigon Ranger. “Even if the comedians only ever do one performance, they have still experienced something that very few people have down. As comedy is constantly evolving and changing, the new acts bring in fresh ideas and keep the more established acts on our toes.”

To add some electricity to the �nals, the show will take on a gameshow feel, with Canadian comic Lars Callieou heading up an all-star panel of judges. Also on hand will be UK-born, Irish-Colombian gagster, Matthew Giffen, who will take up the day’s

headline spot. At VND200,000 for early bird tickets and VND300,000 thereafter, as value-for-money entertainment goes, this one’s a winner.

The FinaleNaturally, with three pros in town and the

promise of a festival, there will be one more show. This will take place on Wednesday, Mar. 16 at well-known expat sports bar, Phatty’s, and will see Lars, Matthew and Martin woo the crowds for a night of belly-tickling, hilarity-inducing fun. Like the �nals of the Big V the day before, the 200k / 300k price to see three award-winning, international comics is very reasonable.

Says festival organiser, Matt Bennett: “If you haven’t seen comedy before, then you need to try this. This quality of performers won’t be back until March 2017. And if you have been to a comedy show, then you will recognise the great value in the ticket prices. Watching comedy will give your brain much more satisfaction than it will have listening to your mates discussing [sport] or their love lives.”

It will make you laugh your �ip-�ops off, too. And if you’re the heckling type, get ready for some well-polished put-downs. — Nick Ross

For more information on the Magners International Comedy Festival click on facebook.com/saigoninternationalcomedy or comedyfest.com.sg. Tickets are available at the venues, through ticketbox.vn or by emailing [email protected]. The early bird price of VND200,000 runs until Tuesday, Mar. 8

Lars Callieou Matthew GiffenMartin Mor


Photo

s from

a re

cent n

ight o

f com

edy a

t So

n T

inh L

ounge h

eadlin

ed b

y Canadia

n co

mic, G

lenn W

oo

l


Suzette MitchellBriefingsNational

From Hai Ba Trung to Ms Huong

With International Women’s Day coming up on Mar. 8, former executive director of the International Women’s Development

Agency Suzette Mitchell, talks about the role of women in Vietnam

Vietnamese legend extols such female heroes as the Trung Sisters, the 17th century military leader Bui Thi Xuan, and the teenage

martyr Vo Thi Sau. But even though the role of women has always been more respected in Vietnam than in many other developing countries, their lives remain dif�cult.

The struggle for a better deal for women is the driving force behind organisations such as the Vietnam Women’s Union (VWU), whose in�uence has become considerable. Today there are many more women in senior positions, and women are more visible in the formal economy and public of�ce. But women still juggle the triple burden of unpaid work in the home and family, on farms or in of�ces and in the

community. For Vietnamese women, this productive

and reproductive work often leaves little time for other community or business leadership activities, whether it means being on the local People’s Committee or joining a corporate board.

StatusVietnam, now that is has reached middle income status, perches between a culture of a Confucian belief system of the past and a modernisation which has yet to deliver equality for women.

Working on development issues for women is dif�cult — how do you measure change and evaluate how women’s lives have improved? It is much more than access to money, but without cash and

assets, there are limits on what can be achieved. My time in Vietnam has been marked by the women who have traversed my life.

Although I have met many formidable and admirable senior women in government and business, it is the women who have not been recognised for their work who impress me deeply as their struggles go largely undocumented.

I met Tsai when she was 16 selling Hmong bracelets on the street in Sapa. I was a frequent visitor to Sapa and would always visit Tsai and her family; I still do but instead of taking rice, cash and MSG (which I was told was a suitable gift in the 1990s), I take clothes, toys and shoes for her six children.

On my last visit in November, when I was saying farewell to her before the journey back to Hanoi, I asked her if she had ever been to Hanoi. The answer was no, and so three hours later she and her baby were on the bottom bunk of the carriage with me, my partner and my daughter, with a bag of her wares. Three days later I packed her up for the return journey, with a bag of clothes for her kids and an album of photos of her standing in front of Hanoi’s sites, including her eating ice-cream in front of Hoan Kiem Lake, the �rst time she had ever eaten ice-cream in her life.

BondsKhanh, the nanny who has cared for my daughter since she was three months old (she is now eight years old), also visited Tsai’s home with her daughter — the trip was Khanh’s �rst time to Sapa, �rst train ride, and �rst contact with ethnic minority

Huong has gone from being a KOTO graduate to studying on a scholarship in Australia


people. During this visit Khanh, her daughter Ly, my daughter Veronika (Vy) and I all went to a local school and donated notebooks, pens and school supplies to a local Hmong school.

Khanh became Tsai’s tour guide in Hanoi, xe om-ing her through town, cooking Vietnamese meals for her and dropping her at places to sell her wares, talking to children in schools and giving cooking lessons (at Hanoi Cooking Centre for the staff). Khanh and Tsai’s lives are as different if they were from different countries, but the opportunity for them to share meals in each other’s houses developed a bond that will last as one of my fondest memories.

Every single day, Vietnamese women inspire me with their strength, bravery and resilience, whether it is a garbage collector pushing a trolley of rubbish double her weight up a hill in scorching heat, or a small vendor eking out a living from a food stall.

MagicThe stories of Vietnamese women need documentation, and I am currently working with Jimmy Pham, founder of KOTO, on documenting the stories of how girls from disadvantaged backgrounds grow into women of dignity, strength and success through the KOTO programme. These stories are magical, and for me they represent a context way beyond economic, one in which Vietnamese support Vietnamese in a culture of care, love, community/family and life skills which never leave them.

I have just interviewed Ms Dang Thi Huong from KOTO’s ninth intake of students (2006). When she joined the

programme she had spent six years sleeping under stairs juggling selling xoi, housecleaning, attending night school and sending money home to the countryside, which she did on two hours’ sleep a night at the age of 13.

After leaving KOTO, Huong worked at the Intercontinental Hotel in Hanoi for two years, then returned, in KOTO style (Know One Teach One), to give back and pay forward by running the reception at KOTO and Café Hideaway. She currently lives in Melbourne thorough her third scholarship after winning the Victorian International Student of the Year Award in 2013 — Higher Education and Premier Award and the Premier’s Award for International Student of the Year. She is currently completing her Masters’

in Entrepreneurship and Innovation at Swinburne University, still volunteering online for the KOTO trainee sponsorship, marketing and communications, which she has done for four years.

As I prepare to leave Hanoi and return to Australia at the end of June this year, I re�ect on what I will miss most; cha ca, yoghurt coffee, the eclectic life of an expatriate, the art, the dynamism (the chaos of the streets, but not the vehicle horns) the constant surprises Hanoi life offers; but most of all, the women who help this country to be what it is in all its shapes and forms — from the Trung Sisters to Miss Huong.

Suzette Mitchell �rst came to Vietnam in 1998 as a volunteer for the UN, and ran the UN Women organisation in Hanoi from 2007 to 2012

Suzette Mitchell with her close friend from Sapa, Tsai

Suzette's daughter, Veronika, with Tsai


Charityof the Month

Saigon Cyclo ChallengePreserving the cyclo and helping a good cause

The humble cyclo or xich lo in Vietnamese, �rst arrived here in the early 20th century as an adaptation of the Chinese rickshaw. Perfect for

carrying goods down narrow alleyways, it wasn’t until the 1940s that they became a common form of passenger transport.

For a good few decades, cyclo drivers

dominated the streets of Saigon and Hanoi, their curious three-wheeled contraptions as synonymous as the sleepy xe om men of today. The 1960s saw the beginning of their decline however, as Uncle Ho’s ‘Honda Revolution’ gathered speed. Even though the cyclo remained popular for daily commuters and tourists up until the late 1990s, today

they are a much rarer breed, at best a tourist artifact, a symbol of old Vietnam, and mainly reminisced about in photographs.

What’s Old is New AgainThe Saigon Cyclo Challenge has been paying homage to this part of the country’s history since 2001. That’s when what they call ‘Ho Chi Minh City’s Premier Charitable Corporate Team-Building Event’ was �rst held. Run by Saigon Children’s Charity (SCC), with the speci�c aim of raising money to help disadvantaged children into education, the event peaked at somewhere between 70 to 80 teams in the mid 2000s.

Anyone who was around then will tell you the events were quite legendary, attracting crowds of up to 5,000 people. Since then, according to SCC’s director Tim Mullett, the event has been scaled back, mainly due to the huge commitment in time that it took to organise for a small charity team. In 2016 and beyond, Tim would love to try and change that, and restore the event at least part of the


way to its former glory.“The cyclo is part of the culture and we

want to preserve that,” he said. “We think it’s a unique event — I’m not aware of another one anywhere in the world, so it is a one-off. It's a terri�c team-building event, and it's also an important source of income for us as well as a great way to build awareness of SCC.”

Friendly RivalryThe event regularly attracts signi�cant media attention nationally and from around the world, and Tim believes companies operating in Vietnam can bene�t from that. In years gone by, he recalls multiple races split into divisions. Banks would take on other banks, construction �rms would �ght it out and so on. These were friendly rivalries played out in front of large crowds.

This year the day's entertainment involves not only the cyclo racing and team challenges highlighting the charity's work, but also a cheerleading competition, lucky draws, a best-in-show cylo decoration award,

Saigon Flea Market and a kids area. It will all culminate in the Cyclo Challenge Grand Final at some time around 4.30pm. The event also incorporates a sponsor’s parade and there are multiple levels of support packages available. The one rule they do have is that in order to take part, riders must attend one of the training sessions prior to the event.

Riding a cyclo may look easy, but it isn’t. Tim assures us of that! — Jon Aspin

For further information or to register your team for this year’s Saigon Cyclo Challenge, go to saigonchildren.com or email [email protected]. The event takes place on Saturday, Mar. 19 from 12pm to 6pm at Celadon City, Tan Phu (next to Aeon Mall)


Anyone who has been to a live performance, be it theatre, dance or music, can vouch for the fact that it is a different experience to merely

watching the same on a screen. There is something about being entertained directly by fellow human beings that has always enthralled audiences.

Theatre options in Saigon are still limited, although it is better than before. Back in 2005, if you wanted to attend a theatre performance, your options were to go abroad or accept the fact that you were in a city where English-language theatre simply did not exist.

The �rst theatre group to be established in HCMC was Saigon Players. It was started in 2005 by a group of thespians who wanted to create theatre and, at the same time, give back to their host country. Their main focus was, and remains, to reach out to people interested in theatre by putting on high-quality, entertaining shows, and by encouraging people to participate and develop their talents. They always give proceeds of their shows to local charities.

Over the years, Saigon Players have done a variety of shows, mostly comedies, including the Miss-ed Saigon series of sketches performed in restaurant or café venues. As an amateur dramatics group, they play the role in the theatre scene of encouraging participation from all people with an interest

in performing.

Guns BlazingIn 2008, The International Choir and Orchestra (ICO) and Saigon Players brought the �rst full-scale Broadway show to a theatre in Saigon with Annie Get Your Gun. Brian Riedlinger, a trained musician and actor, was instrumental (if you’ll pardon the pun) in this trail-blazing event — but it wasn’t easy. In addition to sourcing or making props, set and costumes, putting on a show required (and still requires) a performance license from the government which involves plenty of red tape and hoops to jump through.

It was on the back of the second of these ICO shows, A Christmas Carol, that Dragon�y Theatre Company was born. Jaime Zuniga, Aaron Toronto and Brian were passionate about the need for Saigon to have professional-quality, English-language theatre not only for the expatriate community but also for English-speaking Vietnamese.

They joined forces to bring Oscar Wilde’s The Importance of Being Earnest to the city and it was received by an audience who appeared to be in the grip of a cultural drought. The shows were mostly sold out. Dragon�y also reached out to school groups by providing special matinée shows where students could watch the show and then interview the actors both in and out of character.

Since then, the theatre scene has grown

and diversi�ed. With a change in committee, Saigon Players started doing more serious shows; Dragon�y produced plays that were, while sometimes less well-known and intellectually challenging, artistically very satisfying and well received, and SocioMuso (SYMT) arrived to �ll the gap in youth theatre.

The director of SocioMuso, Matthew Gardener, states on their website that the group is “dedicated to harnessing the talent of those children who have a particular passion for the arts, but all children bene�t from participating. They can develop personal and professional skills which can be used in their lives, regardless of their chosen career.”

Wider AngleBut for all the theatre groups in Saigon, putting on a production has many challenges. Finding a venue is the �rst and biggest dif�culty. To perform of�cially, for example in one of the many theatres around the city, requires a performance license, taxes, translated scripts and lengthy background checks. This takes signi�cant time and money, taking the cost of a production higher.

Sourcing props, lighting and set would seem simple in a country that can make anything, but every piece has to be individually found, described, designed or made. There are no costumiers or Amazon in Vietnam. I remember spending hours

Bringing Theatre to Vietnam

In the second of a series of articles written by guest columnists, Belinda Smith shares her experience of trying to put on English language theatre in Ho Chi Minh City

BriefingsInternational

Belinda Smith


Theatre in VietnamFor more info on the various theatre options in Vietnam, click on the following links:

DRAGONFLY THEATRE COMPANY

facebook.com/dragonflyvietnam

SAIGON PLAYERS

saigonplayers.com

SOCIO MUSO

sociomuso.com

And in Hanoi…

HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY

hitshanoi.com

trying to get Elizabethan dresses made for Dangerous Liaisons (learning the Vietnamese for “Wider! Wider!” along the way). Storing all these items is another issue. Members of Saigon Players and Dragon�y Theatre have all been custodians of various theatre items with Aaron Toronto housing the fuselage of the plane from The Little Prince on his balcony for 6 months.

Getting the word out to people and growing and maintaining an audience is also a challenge in a city alive with entertainment options and with a transient pool of expats who may or may not be interested in theatre.

Every performance gets a little bit easier; theatre groups here are not afraid to try new things, to bring new ideas, and are constantly grateful that audiences trust us to choose plays that we think will entertain them. But

why do we do it? We believe that theatre transcends

everyday concerns about money, career and business, and deliberately challenges people with new ways of thinking. Theatre performances should be able to reach out to the soul of an audience member and elicit emotion on many levels. This is why the people involved in the theatre scene will devote their time, effort, energy and money to overcome the challenges of putting a show on. To us, it is worth it to reach out to you.

Dragon�y is the work of a number of people including Jaime Zúñiga, Aaron Toronto and Brian Riedlinger. The company prides itself on using professionally trained actors such as Aaron Toronto, Ryan Burkwood, David Delves, Leon Bown and the famous Vietnamese actress Lan Phuong

Bottom left and right: The cast of Dangerous Liaisons

Bottom centre: Lan Phuong and Belinda in The Importance

of Being Earnest

Top Right and LeftLeft: David Delves and Leon Brown in

Lawrence and Holloman

Centre: Aaron Toronto and Belinda in Dangerous Liaison


BriefingsNational

And the Answer is? ...English

With the ASEAN economic community now in full flow, English has become more important than ever

“[When I came to the school] I could just speak a little English,” says Tran Khanh Nguyen, a Year 12 Student at ISHCMC — American Academy.

“But it was just a small amount, some common sentences. So, ‘How are you?’ and ‘What’s Your Name?’ That’s it.”

Five years later and Nguyen, also known as Jack, is his own success story. He achieved above U.S. grade level English in his latest MAP® standardized tests and has just been awarded a US$60,000 (VND1.34 billion) scholarship to study at the Florida Institute of Technology.

With the inauguration of the ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) at the end of 2015, Jack and his contemporaries may well play an important role in the future of not just Vietnam but ASEAN and further a�eld. In 2014, AEC was collectively the third-largest economy in Asia and the seventh largest in the world. And in the ASEAN Charter of 2009 it was decreed that, “the working language of ASEAN

shall be English.”This has many implications for Vietnam

— the key one is communication. While countries such as Singapore and the Philippines have English installed in their DNA, places like Vietnam do not. So how does this country rise to the challenge?

Immersion“Unless kids study English year in and year out from a young age,” says Patrick, a language teacher working in Ho Chi Minh City, “they will never quite get the grasp on the language they require. Studying twice or three times a week at a private language school is bene�cial, but what they need is the environment, immersion.”

Indeed, without immersion, it’s dif�cult to get a �uent grasp of not just English, but any language.

The answer, naturally, is for Vietnamese families to send their kids to study at a school that not only teaches all their lessons in English, but has an

Stu

dents

at

ISH

CM

C -

Am

eri

can A

cade

my

ISHCMC — American Academy student Jack received a VND1.34 billion scholarship to study in the US


English-speaking culture at the school.One such institution is International

School Saigon Pearl (ISSP). Based just off Nguyen Huu Canh in the Binh Thanh area of Ho Chi Minh City, 65 percent of the students are Vietnamese out of the 20 nationalities represented at this American elementary school for children aged 18 months to 11 years old.

Using MAP® Testing to measure academic progress, the school can show that over 60 percent of their students are achieving above grade level English. This is compared to US standards.

Add to this library specialist lessons and an English as an Additional Language (EAL) Program for non-native speakers, and ISSP students see tremendous growth in their English skills.

“[Before I was a curriculum coordinator] I was a teacher here for two years,” says James Peter Hardy, ISSP curriculum coordinator. “One girl came into the �rst grade [who couldn’t speak a word], and by

the end of the �rst year she was on level with English.”

At ISHCMC — American Academy, Jack has the same experience. At school, he says, he speaks English with his Vietnamese friends. Like the students at ISSP, Jack’s use of his second language is affected by the culture of where he studies.

“The culture of any school is critical,” says ISSP’s James, “not just in terms of speaking English, but in terms of respecting each other, responsibility and how we’re all life-long learners at the same time. We set a level of expectation that we want the students to follow, and although it’s not a mandatory rule, they want to speak English. It’s great!”

Opening DoorsSo, will Vietnam rise to the challenge of the ASEAN Economic Community? On the communication front, over time it certainly will. One great advantage Vietnam has is a Confucian love of learning allied to a �erce

desire to better oneself. Already, hundreds of thousands of Vietnamese speak English to a fairly high level, and the likes of Jack and his peers are following closely in their footsteps.

Yet being a �uent English speaker doesn’t just give Jack future access to the bene�ts of being part of ASEAN. It also gives him access to living and studying in the US.

“If I’d stayed at public school, I think it would have been very hard [to study in America in the future]. The only thing they teach you in a public school is the language, the sentences, the grammar, but they don’t actually tell you how to speak, how you pronounce words. It’s really hard to fit into American society.” — Nick Ross

For more info on ISHCMC — American Academy, register for their Apr. 16 Open House at aavn.edu.vn. To learn more about International Saigon Pearl, register for their Mar. 23 Open House at issp.edu.vn

ISSP supports students from over 20 nationalities with an extensive English as an Additional Language (EAL) Program


BriefingsNational

The Ta Lai TrophyVietnam’s one and only jungle race returns on Apr. 16

Imagine mountain biking 55km along jungle tracks before embarking on a 12km run. If that’s not enough, follow this test of endurance with two hours

worth of kayaking and swimming. That is the Extreme category in the Ta Lai Trophy, a wilderness adventure race that takes competitors working in teams of two through the mountains, farmland and deep jungle of Cat Tien National Park, three hours north of Saigon.

Formerly the Madagui Trophy — the competition was rebranded in 2014 — the Ta Lai Trophy is now entering its third year, and each time round is continuing to grow. The �rst edition in 2014 attracted 50 racers, while last year 100 people took part, with the winning pair, Jean-Baptiste Campion and Joachim Poirier, �nishing the Extreme race in six hours.

With two categories of adult racing available — competitors can also take the four-hour Challenge option — co-event organiser George Abraham of Ta Lai

Longhouse is expecting this year’s event to build on the success of the last two years.

“Each year we increase the number of racers, so I hope we can get around 150 racers for the combined categories,” he says. “We also have a new Gibbons race course for children aged between seven to 12 years old on the Saturday, so it will be great to see the future generations getting involved and learning about nature.”

Not Three But FourWith so many endurance races sprouting up in Vietnam, George faces a question. Why should potential competitors go for the Ta Lai Trophy rather than the likes of Ironman or the Vietnam Mountain Challenge? George sees the competition among events as positive.

“It’s great that in the last four to �ve years so many different races are opening up,” he says. “I hope it continues, as it only bene�ts us and the racing community by attracting more people into competing.”

Yet, as he is also quick to point out, the Ta Lai Trophy is a quadrathlon. The only four-discipline competition of its kind in Vietnam, kayaking is added to the standard swimming, running and cycling of a triathlon. In addition, competitors have to tackle the course in pairs. Not only does this set the race in Nam Cat Tien apart from its contemporaries, but it also has the magic and mystique of the Vietnamese jungle as its backdrop.

“It’s such a big challenge on your body and mind racing in the jungles, and is so different to running in the city or biking on concrete roads,” he says. “The temperature and humidity can really eat away at your energy, and the fact you need to be looking not only in front of you but high and low and all around when you’re ducking and diving through the jungle, means you use all your muscles. You also need to keep an eye out for the [route] markings and your teammate. So concentration needs to be high throughout.”

Drawing in a mix of experienced racers,


the kind of people who travel all over Asia just to compete, as well as people who “just want an adventure, to explore the park and meet similar, like-minded people”, the race weekend �nishes off with a party and a BBQ. The event is also an opportunity for George and his colleagues to increase environmental awareness about the jungle and to help support the work that Ta Lai Longhouse is doing with the local communities around Ta Lai and Cat Tien.

Adds George: “Cat Tien is still a bit of a mystery to many expats and tourists alike, so having the chance to come and explore the park and to do so with friends and family is really attractive.”

For more information on the Ta Lai Trophy or to get involved, click on talai-adventure.vn or email [email protected]. Registration costs VND3.8 million per person (VND3.5 million before Mar. 15) and includes meals, accommodation, transportation and participant fee. The kids ‘Gibbon’ package is free of charge for every two parents who participate in the race


SportsDigest

With the Year of the Monkey ahead, there will be no monkey business for Vietnam’s Aussie Rules footballers, with the

return of an annual springtime event and a high-profile tournament this autumn.

This year will see the Swans make their annual ANZAC Day clash at the Lord Mayor’s Oval (a.k.a. the greyhound track) in Vung Tau on Saturday, Apr. 23, where they face the Jakarta Bintangs.

The Swans’ Anzac Friendship Game continues to grow in stature each year, with the 2016 game to be no exception. Record crowds are expected owing to the 50th Anniversary year of the Battle of Long Tan, a battle of great signi�cance for Australian troops during the war.

The Bintangs and Swans have a colourful rivalry, which stretches back to March 2006

when the Bintangs �rst travelled to Vietnam for a game against the Hanoi Swans at the United Nations International School (UNIS). This was the Swans’ �rst recorded win, defeating the Bintangs 6-7 (43) to 2-4 (16).

“We have built a great rivalry with the ‘tangs over the years with some classic encounters at recent AFL Asian Championships. This year’s game should be no different,” said Vietnam Swans national president Grant Keys.

This year’s Friendship game and ANZAC Day will include the annual McMillan dinner, with proceeds helping support the club and its associated charities, notably Swim Vietnam.

The big news for the club is the scheduling of the Asian Championships in Ho Chi Minh City on Oct. 15 at the RMIT Campus in District 7. Teams will be 12

players a side and will include the �rst women’s AFL side made up of Viet Celts Ladies and Saigon Ladies Gaels players. They will be teaming up in a proposed Vietnam vs. “world” players. Previous incarnations of the tournament have taken place as far a�eld as Thailand and the Philippines and elsewhere.

“We are expecting over 400 competitors to RMIT Saigon, which will include two female teams for the �rst ever women’s Aussie Rules international in Asia,” Keys said. “The Swans have made the semi-�nals three times at previous Asian Champs, but have never cracked the big one.

“It’s going to be a massive weekend of footy with a big after-game party also being planned.”

For further information on these events, visit vietnamswans.com

Australian Rules Football is gaining strength in Vietnam. This year is set to be another big one. Words by Harry Hodge

Aussie, Aussie, Aussie


Send updates

about your

sporting group or

event to harry@

wordvietnam.com

Thang to Take Over National Team Coach ReinsFormer national team defender Nguyen Huu Thang signed a two-year contract with the Vietnam Football Federation last month, following the departure of Japanese manager Toshiya Miura, writes Tuoi Tre.

Thang, who was on the national team from 1996 to 2002, is rumoured to be getting at least VND100 million (US$4,464) in monthly salary to take over the position, but the VFF has said contract regulations mean his salary will not be revealed to the media.

Thang recently coached Song Lam Nghe An, playing in the V-League 1. Thang won the silver medal in the Southeast Asian Games in 1995 as part of the national team.

He began his coaching career in 2005, three years after retiring as a player. He won the V-League 1 in 2011, becoming one of the only three Vietnamese citizens to win the title as both player and coach.

Vietnam Preparing Olympic SquadVietnam expects to send 15 athletes to the 2016 Summer Olympic Games in Brazil to compete in swimming, shooting, weightlifting and other disciplines, according to the National Administration of Sports and Physical Training as reported by Thanh Nien.

Six athletes have already quali�ed for the event, including swimmer Anh Vien, shooters Quoc Cuong and Xuan Vinh and three weightlifters.

Around nine more athletes are expected to qualify for the Olympics in the coming months, Phan said.

These athletes are Quach Thi Lan and Quach Cong Lich in track and �eld, Hoang Quy Phuoc in swimming, Nguyen Tien Minh and Vu Thi Trang in badminton and others in taekwondo, wrestling, judo, shooting and women’s weightlifting.

Vietnam is investing more than VND48 billion (US$2.1 million) in training its athletes for the Olympics, which will be held from Aug. 5 to Aug. 21 in Rio de Janeiro.

Saigon Heat Headed to PlayoffsThe Saigon Heat completed the play-off bracket for the 2016

season of the ASEAN Basketball League (ABL) with an 84-80 victory over the Pilipinas MX3 Kings at the Malolos Sports and Convention Center in Malolos, Bulacan, earlier in February according to the ABL website.

Lenny Daniel dominated the game for the Heat with 29 points, 16 rebounds and 3 assists, playing all 40 minutes and shooting 14 of 21 from the �eld. Moses Morgan added 22 points and 5 rebounds while Paul Williams and David Arnold added 13 points apiece.

Saigon found it hard to shake off the pesky Kings in the �rst half. Pilipinas MX3 actually held the lead for much of the second quarter but a strong �nish by the Heat punctuated by a buzzer-beating triple from Morgan gave the visitors a 48-41 advantage heading into the break. The Heat avenged their last loss to the Kings by eliminating them of�cially from the race for the top four.

Hanoi T&T Bounced from AFC Champions LeagueVietnamese league club Hanoi T&T have bowed out of the 2016 AFC Champions League after suffering an emphatic defeat against a Korean side in an away game last month, according to Tuoi Tre.

Taking on heavyweights Pohang Steelers at Pohang Steel Yard, the Vietnamese visitors left stars Pham Van Quyet and Pham Thanh Luong at home, bringing to South Korea only 16 players in their play-off game against the hosts.

The hosts opened the scoring in the 35th minute, as a pass from mid�eld found Dong Woon Sim, who dashed to lob the ball over Vietnamese keeper Tran Anh Duc.

Pohang Steelers netted two more goals in the second half, with Dong scoring a brace in the 62nd and 84th minutes, completing his hat trick. The �nal score was 3-0.

Pohang Steelers advance to the group stage of the 2016 AFC Champions League, where they will encounter defending champions Guangzhou Evergrande of China, 2007 winners Urawa Reds of Japan and Australia’s Sydney FC.

PHOTOS BY ROB BREWER


To Dolist HCMC

St. Paddy’s Day, under-ground DJs,

a comedy festival and

a bouldering championship. A great month

for anyone to likes to get out

and about in Saigon

1.a F

ranci

s In

fern

o O

rchest

ra p

lays

at

Obse

rvato

ry o

n M

ar.

18

b O

bse

rvato

ry f

avo

uri

te, S

an S

oda, re

turn

s on M

ar.

12

2.

Wo

rk b

y D

oan X

uan T

ang. H

e w

ill b

e e

xhib

itin

g t

his

month

at

Vin

Galle

ry

3.

Am

ate

ur

com

edia

ns

will

�ght

it o

ut

for

bra

ggin

g r

ights

at

the B

ig V

Com

edy

Com

peti

tion

The Observatory5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4

Throughout March

The Observatory is rolling out its usual impressive collection of events this March, bringing cutting-edge artists from across the world to our fair city. Get your calendar app ready, unlimber your thumbs, and get ready to make dates with dance.

On Friday, Mar. 11, Heartbeat presents Oliver Deutschmann, one of many artists busting out crazy Euromusik in Berlin’s techno Renaissance. Fresh from appearing in clubs like Berghain and Tresor, Deutschmann will be bringing his innovative techno wizardry to the Observatory.

The show starts at 10pm, and is free until 11pm. From 11pm onward, entry costs VND150,000.

On Saturday, Mar. 12, the party continues with international performer San Soda. A long-time Observatory favourite and one of the �rst international musical artists to drop beats there, San Soda is returning to Ho Chi Minh City for his third visit.


On Friday, Mar. 18, Australian musician Francis Inferno Orchestra returns to the Observatory bringing

his globally-respected house and techno musical stylings. With a name like that, FIO is sure to set the Observatory ablaze musically.


On Saturday, Mar. 19, the Goethe Institut presents German musical veteran Gudrun Gut. A professional musician since 1979, Gut began as a punk drummer before turning to the turntables. Gut explores themes of nostalgia and human obscurity, and is sure to elevate your mind and move your feet.

To learn more about these and other upcoming events at the Observatory, webify them at facebook.com/theobservatoryhcmc and be sure to hit the Like button while you’re there

Tho Cam IIVin Gallery, Q2

Mar. 4 to Mar. 26

Doan Xuan Tang’s latest exhibition, Tho Cam II, distills the romance and mystery of Vietnam’s mountainous region and its people. The streaked lines look like veils through which eyes peer dispassionately, recalling his rain-lashed �rst visit.

“I particularly love to paint the eyes because they re�ect the soul inside — happy, sad or suffering,” he says.

Refusing to romanticise a region whose beauty belies hardships, the lines remind us that cultures can’t be consumed, and inevitably elude our true understanding. Physical appearance is just one facet of the complexity of the human condition. Tang adds: “Beauty fades, but its impression is permanent.”

The exhibition is free of charge and is open 8.30am to 5.30pm, Monday to Saturday. Vin Gallery is at 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC. Check out vingallery.com for more info

Big V Comedy CompetitionMar. 4 and Mar. 15

Decibel, Q3 (Mar. 4) and Saigon Ranger, Q1 (Mar.14)

Do you have what it takes to make a room full of strangers laugh? Think you could match it with the pros? If so, you should be entering this years’ Big V Comedy Competition.

Kicking off on Friday, Mar. 4 at deciBel, this is the night for amateur stand-ups living in Vietnam to hit the stage and give it their all. Hosted by local comic Tat Lay, each aspiring comedian will get three minutes on stage to strut their gag-�lled stuff.

A panel of judges will pick out the top three, of whom the winner will be �own to Singapore to compete in the regional �nals on Friday, Mar. 11. All three �nalists will then return

1

2

a


on Tuesday Mar. 15 to perform at Saigon Ranger for the Vietnam �nals. Hosted by Northern Irish stand-up Martin Mor, the biggest beard in comedy, an all-star, game show-style panel will also be put together headed up by Canadian comic, Lars Callieou. With VND10 million worth of prize money also at stake, expect this to be a heated and very amusing affair.

The Big V Comedy Competition will kick off at deciBel (79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, HCMC) on Friday, Mar. 4 at 8pm. The entrance surcharge is VND100,000 and payment is on the door. The �nals at Saigon Ranger (5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, HCMC) also kick off at 8pm and entrance is VND200,000 for early birds and VND300,000 after Mar. 9. To book tickets email [email protected] or click on ticketbox.vn

Late Night SessionsVin Space, Q7

Mar. 8 to Apr. 26

Vin Space’s Studio 7 is launching a new series of late night art sessions on Tuesday evenings. Bringing together creative people of all backgrounds to learn in a social and relaxed atmosphere, they will

b

3


To Dolist HCMC

1. T

he

Kiw

is a

re b

ack

in f

orc

e t

his

month

wit

h t

he la

test

rendit

ion o

f th

eir

annual f

est

ival

2.

The

thre

e h

eadlin

ers

at

the M

agners

Inte

rnati

onal C

om

edy

Fest

ival,

Mart

in M

or,

Matt

hew

Gif

fen a

nd L

ars

Calle

iou

3.

Yes,

we c

an c

on�rm

it’s

tru

e. G

uin

ness

will

be s

erv

ed o

n S

t. P

addy’

s D

ay

at

Dublin

Gate

be introducing a range of art practices including design, print, sculpture and animation. Drop by, drink a few beers and bring your friends. This crowd is open to all backgrounds and skill levels.

For more information email [email protected] or call 0907 729846. VinSpace is at S24-1, Le Van Thiem, Q7, HCMC

New Zealand Food and Wine Festival

RMIT University, Q7Mar. 12

The New Zealand Wine and Food Festival will return to RMIT University on Saturday, Mar. 12.

Featuring imported New Zealand wines, and Kiwi-style food from some of the city’s leading hotels, this evening is a chance to enjoy New Zealand’s award-winning produce while relaxing on the lawn and listening to live music.

In 2015 the Festival donated over VND100 million to the Ba Chieu Home for Girls, enough to provide education and a safe environment for 26 girls for one year. In 2016 the Festival will again support Ba Chieu, but will also donate funds to KOTO to help underprivileged kids train in hospitality.

For more information contact [email protected] or click on facebook.com/wineandfoodfestivalnewzealandhcmc

Magners International Comedy Festival

Saigon Ranger, Q1 and Phatty’s, Q1

Mar. 15 and Mar. 16

If you like to laugh, March is going to be a good month for you. That’s because Magners is bringing two nights of quality international comedy to Ho Chi Minh City. Incorporating the Big V Comedy competition, where locals will strut their stuff with the pros, and featuring Irish comedian and former circus performer Martin Mor as host, both nights promise to be classic. Canadian Lars Callieou will also perform on both nights, a man who has toured with the likes of Joan Rivers and Jeff Foxworthy and boasts a TV and radio resume longer than most people’s arms. Headlining the whole thing will be the star of BBC 3’s hit show The Fear in the UK, Colombian Irish UK comic Matthew Giffen. Word has it he was brought up on a diet of cocaine and potatoes, so expect his act to be explosive. See you there!

Both shows cost VND200,000 before Mar. 8 and VND300,000 thereafter. For more info, go to facebook.com/saigoninternationalcomedy. For ticketing click on ticketbox.vn or email [email protected]. Saigon Ranger is at 5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, HCMC. Phatty’s is at 46-48 Ton That Tung, Q1

St. Patrick’s Day CraicDublin Gate, Q1

Thursday. Mar. 17

The Irish Embassy and the Irish Business Association of Vietnam (IBAV) are teaming up to celebrate St. Paddy’s Day in a big way this year, with two events playing themselves out over the St Patrick’s Day weekend in Ho Chi Minh City.

The �rst is a traditional, pub-hosted craic and will take place on St Patricks Day itself (Mar. 17) at The Dublin Gate. Expect plenty of Guinness, Irish food, music and a great atmosphere. With decorations turning The Gate into a real place of celebration, this will be an event not to be missed. The pub is managed by an Irish-Australian, a combination sure to get the right spirit going on the night.

Dublin Gate Irish Pub is at 19 Thai Van Lung, Q1, HCMC. The place will be packed, so get there early

1


2

3


To Dolist HCMC

St Patrick’s Day FestivalSaigon Outcast, Q2Saturday, Mar. 19

Organised by the IBAV (Irish Business Association Vietnam), the local Irish Community and with support from the Embassy of Ireland in Vietnam, all them Irish folks out there and anyone who loves to get into the Gaelic spirit �nally have a festival to celebrate the life of St. Paddy.

Featuring local band, Whiskey in a Jar, and All-Ireland Flute, Concertina, Fiddle and Irish Dance Champions Cian Kearns, Niamh O’Sullivan, Claire Walsh and Mark Nestor, who will be �ying in from Ireland specially for the festivities, this is going to be one hell of a bash.

Irish-themed food will be on sale alongside traditional Irish drinks. Face painting, a bouncy castle, an open mic and ‘best dressed in green’ competitions will be held. And with the addition of a raf�e with proceeds going to the Christina Noble Children’s Foundation in

Vietnam, here is your chance to paint Saigon green.

The festival will run from 3pm to 10pm and is at Saigon Outcast, 188 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2. Entrance is free and the event is supported and sponsored by Purcells, Glandore Systems, Dublin Gate Irish Pub, Jameson, Magners Irish Cider, Tiger beer, The Australian International School Vietnam, Al Fresco’s Restaurants, Saigon Outcast, James Galvin, GAA and Word Vietnam. Entrance is free of charge

The Roaring 20sInterContinental Asiana Saigon,

Q1Saturday, Mar. 19

The Business Group of Vietnam (BBGV) is turning 20, and to celebrate, the networking and business outfit will be putting on a Roaring 1920s bash at the InterCon.

Top-end cuisine, lots of entertainment and a dancing competition will be part of the affair, as will a 1920s dress code

and a prize draw that includes the opportunity to win �ights to Europe or accommodation vouchers in hotels and resorts.

Tickets cost VND2.5 million per person. To book your space contact Nga on [email protected] or (08) 3829 8430 Ext. 107

Canvas & WineVin Space, Q7

Thursday, Mar. 24

Whether it’s mosaic, montage or abstract, the skill of collage literally brings the best bits of art together! That’s why Vin Space wants you to get cutting, swapping, sticking, gluing and drinking as they help you get familiar with this massively underrated medium. Go with a friend and come back with your very own ‘masterpiece’. Sounds like a great (school) night out.

Vin Space is at S24-1, Le Van Thiem, Q7. The evening costs VND874,000 with two glasses of wine and all materials included. For groups of four the price is VND2,990,000. Teachers get a 20 percent discount1.

St.

Patr

ick’

s D

ay

is h

ere

! T

ime t

o p

ain

t th

e t

ow

n g

reen

2.

Canva

s and W

ine r

etu

rns

this

month

wit

h a

nig

ht

of

learn

ing t

o m

ake

colla

ge

s

3.

Bo

uld

eri

ng g

ets

itse

lf a

tourn

am

ent

4.

Aft

er

its

�rs

t se

xy o

uti

ng a

t th

e E

quato

rial,

Sundaze

is b

ack

for

edit

ion t

wo

5.

Vie

tnam

’s o

nly

jungle

challe

nge,

the T

a L

ai T

rophy,

retu

rns

in A

pri

l

Saigon Bouldering CupVertical Academy, Q2

Saturday, Mar. 26

District 2 is fast becoming a hub for all forms of climbing (we’re not just talking about social ladders), and leading the way have been the guys and girls at Vertical Academy.

To celebrate everyone’s new favourite form of �tness, they’ve inaugurated the �rst ever Saigon Bouldering Cup. Open to all-comers the event features four categories — Under 17, Novice and Intermediate and Open — and will be set by special guest route setters Felicia Lim and Gavin Yong from the Singaporean Mountaineering Federation. In addition there will food and drink available, live music, capoeira and aerial dance demonstrations. Sounds like something for everyone, especially if you like getting high once in a while.

To �nd out more go to facebook.com/vertical.academy.vn Individual

registration costs VND250,000. Teams of three cost VND750,000 and all registrants get a free t-shirt and the necessary safety training. Entrance is free for all spectators.

SundazeHotel Equatorial, Q5

Sunday, Mar. 27

It’s getting a little bit like Vegas at the Equatorial Hotel’s next Sundaze party. Groove out to Eskerod’s beats, and get down to the hot models serving cold booze. Compete in the bikini contest and check out the fashion show, complete with prizes.

Even better. If you and a mob of your friends get one of the poolside rooms, which house up to 10 guests, you’ll get a free bottle of spirit complete with mixers.

So come to the Hotel Equatorial and get Sundazed. The party starts — when else? — at high noon.

For more information, contact the Hotel Equatorial on (08) 3839

7777 or click on facebook.com/sundaze.asia. The Hotel Equatorial is at 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, HCMC

Ta Lai TrophyCat Tien National Park, Dong

NaiApr. 16 to Apr. 17

Adrenaline junkies, feeling left out? You’re in luck, because it’s Ta Lai Trophy time, a two-day race through the lush jungles and scenic farmland of Cat Tien National Park. With two dif�culty levels and a race designed especially for kids ages seven to 12, it’s perfect for the whole �t, fun-loving family.

So register your team of two for a three to eight-hour race, running, biking, swimming and kayaking your way to victory. Registration costs VND3.8 million per person, and includes accommodation, meals and transportation.

Get more information at talai-adventure.vn


INJust

HCMC

Japanese pizzerias,

gastroloung-es, 20-year

anniversaries and new

top-end re-sorts

1. N

apo

li’s

is b

ringin

g J

apanese

-sty

le p

izza

and s

erv

ice t

o t

he h

eart

of

Saig

on

2.

Jere

my

Ste

in f

rom

Rain

bow

Div

ers

has

been o

pera

ting h

is d

ive s

chool i

n V

ietn

am

for

two d

eca

des

3.

Fancy

som

e C

anadia

n b

eef?

Canada S

teakh

ouse

import

s it

all

the w

ay

from

Alb

ert

a

4.

Tim

e B

istr

o b

ring t

radit

ional V

ietn

am

ese

cuis

ine t

o N

guye

n H

ue

5.

The

new

ly r

enova

ted T

he D

ublin

Gate

cla

ims

it’s

the o

nly

Iri

sh b

ar

in S

aig

on

6.

The

rece

ntl

y opened E

lixir

just

ooze

s st

yle

7. N

ovo

tel P

hu Q

uoc

is t

he la

test

qualit

y re

sort

to o

pen o

n t

he is

land

Pizzeria Bar Napoli’sEveryone loves a good pizza, right? Well, this is what Japanese restaurant chain Napoli’s have in mind with the Mar. 1 opening of their second Ho Chi Minh City restaurant on Dong Du.

With a proli�c record of 68 outlets opened in Japan in the space of just four years, and with Napoli’s Pizza and Café already wooing the punters on Ly Tu Trong, the chain has garnered itself a well-deserved reputation for fast, tasty Italian pizza at reasonable prices.

Open for both lunch and dinner, the eatery focuses on the mighty pizza, but also serves up the full range of Italian fare. Made with imported ingredients from Italy, 12 artisan pizzas are on the menu including anything from the Margherita and Napoletana through to the Teriyaki Chicken and Salsiccia. These are complemented by fresh salads, pasta, gratin and doria, 14 types of tapas and desserts.

Any Italian needs to have a good drinks menu, and at Napoli’s there are more than 30 wines by the bottle and a number by the glass. The drinks selection also comes with over 100 cocktails starting at VND65,000 a go. Considering the downtown location, this is a bargain.

Pizzeria Bar Napoli’s is open daily from 11am to 1am and is at 54 Dong Du, Q1, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3822 8800. For

further info click on napolisvietnam.com. To celebrate International Women’s Day, Napoli’s is offering one free drink and one free dessert for every female customer between Tuesday, Mar. 8 and Sunday, Mar. 13.

Rainbow Divers Celebrates 20 Years in Vietnam

Rainbow Divers is celebrating two decades of operation in Vietnam, con�rming it as the longest established PADI Dive centre in the country.

The anniversary was marked by moving their HQ in Nha Trang to new, bigger premises at 19 Biet Thu. Owner and founder of Rainbow Divers, Englishman Jeremy Stein, has been awarded Platinum Course Director status in recognition of his continued development of PADI and the dive industry throughout the country. He is the only Platinum Course Director in Vietnam and hosts the only dive centre in the country to 100% support the environment through Project AWARE. Every dive course taught includes an automatic contribution to help save our delicate underwater environment.

You can check out the best places to dive and do the full range of PADI courses in Vietnam at divevietnam.com or by emailing Jeremy directly at [email protected]

Canada SteakhouseInto Alberta beef and don’t know where to go?

Opened in late December, the three-�oor Canada Steakhouse is offering a selection of Alberta AAA beef with different styles of cooking and sauces (starting from VND300,000 for a 150 gram cut). In order to satisfy various types of guest, there are also chicken, seafood and vegetarian dishes on the menu cooked up in a range of styles.

While the �rst and second �oor look cozy and warm with black painted walls and bricks accompanied by leather chairs and couches, the top �oor is an airy garden with rows of hanging rosemary and other herbs. A good venue for solo diners as well as groups.

Canada Steakhouse is at 219C Pham Viet Chanh, Q1, HCMC

Time BistroSituated on the second �oor of the building next to Fahasa on Nguyen Hue, Time Bistro is a restaurant serving up traditional Vietnamese fare.

Decorated with paintings of Notre Dame Cathedral and colonial era houses, and equipped with wooden chairs and tables, Time Bistro exudes an intimate and cozy ambience. The

Moet & Chandon, Product of France, Alcohol Content 12%

1 2

3 PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER


menu encompasses a full range of Vietnamese cuisine, serving up anything from stir-fried glory morning with garlic to spring rolls or fried rice with seafood and the local delicacy, bird’s nest soup.

Located at 44 Nguyen Hue, Q1, HCMC, Time Bistro is offering 50 percent discount deals for Word readers who show this article when dining at the restaurant

The Dublin GateA makeover of the former Bernie’s Irish Bar, according to man behind the scenes, Bernie, the reason for rebranding Dublin Gate is to make the bar more Irish.

Painted in traditional Irish green, the two-level venue has been renovated all over with separate sections for smokers and non-smokers. The smoking section is also the area for anyone who wants to catch up on a spot of pool, darts or watch the televised sports.

With an open kitchen upstairs, The Dublin Gate serves up a wide range of food (starting from VND70,000), with anything from Irish classics and western fare through to Vietnamese staples. The drink list includes coffee, tea, fruit juice, beer and spirits, and you can even grab yourself a pint of Guinness for VND140,000.

The Dublin Gate is at 19 Thai

Van Lung, Q1, HCMC. Visit thedublingateirishpub.com for info about their events and their happy hour

Elixir GastroloungeLying on the Pasteur side of the Rex Hotel, Elixir is a restobar that takes its décor seriously. Designed with a contemporary Indochine �avour, dark polished woods, French drapes and cigar drawers complete the formula.

Focusing on contemporary dining, the cuisine encompasses anything from steak (VND750,000 for a grilled tenderloin) and chicken (VND120,000 for chicken teriyaki) to sushi and sashimi (VND170,000 for a spicy albacore sashimi with crispy onion). All cocktails are created by a bartender from Singapore and priced at VND180,000. There are also DJing events at weekends and Ladies’ Nights every Wednesday.

Elixir is at 146 Pasteur, Q1, HCMC and runs a daily 50-percent-off-all-drinks happy hour from 4pm to 9pm

Novotel Phu QuocIn January, hotel management chain, AccorHotels, opened their third resort on Phu Quoc Island off the south coast of Vietnam.

Located on one of the island’s most beautiful white-sand beaches,

Novotel Phu Quoc combines natural beauty, serenity and contemporary décor to provide, what the resort describes as “an unforgettable experience with views of turquoise waters, lush vegetation and a wide-range of hotel amenities, eco-tourism activities and attractions for guests of all ages”.

Boasting 366 rooms, including 120 suites and villas, each accommodation type features a sofa bed, a balcony or terrace and 42 inch LCD TVs, while 20 of the villas come with private pools. A spa, two restaurants and three bars, as well as a state-of-the-art �tness centre, two tennis courts, an outdoor swimming pool, a separate kids pool, a kids club and 650 sqm of �exible meeting and event space make up the mix.

To celebrate its opening, the resort is offering special daily rates until 30 April 2016 starting from VND1,850,000++ for a superior room inclusive of breakfast for two adults. Two children (under 16) staying in the same room as their parents can eat breakfast and utilise existing bedding at no additional charge.

Novotel Phu Quoc Resort is located at Duong Bao Hamlet, Duong Bao Commune, Phu Quoc, 8km from the airport. For general information or reservations, please visit accorhotels.com/9770 or call 077 626 0999

PH

OT

OS

BY

FR

AN

CIS

XA

VIE

R

4

PHOTO BY FRANCIS XAVIER

PHOTO BY FRANCIS XAVIER

5

7

5

6


To DolistHanoi

1.a W

ork

by

Do T

uan A

nh d

ocu

menti

ng t

he n

ew

mig

rant

in�ux

to E

uro

pe

b W

ork

by

Duong T

hy

Duong a

t th

is m

onth

’s G

oeth

e-I

nst

itut

exh

ibit

ion, M

igra

tion a

nd I

denti

ty

2.

Thin

k A

s Yo

u D

o b

y D

inh T

hi T

ham

Poong

3. T

he

exp

ect

ed s

et-

up a

t th

e G

oeth

e-I

nst

itut

sponso

red s

how

, In

vent

ions

from

Ger

man

y

4. U

K-b

ase

d, aw

ard

-win

nin

g b

and H

ipst

er

will

be p

layi

ng a

t th

e S

t. P

atr

ick

Rock

s C

once

rt o

n M

ar.

18

5. B

elg

ian-b

orn

San S

oda w

ill b

e p

layi

ng a

t AT

K o

n M

ar.

18

6. G

out

de F

rance

retu

rns

on M

ar.

21

wit

h t

he p

art

icip

ati

on o

f m

ore

than t

wo d

oze

n r

est

aura

nt

in V

ietn

am

Art exhibitions, St. Patrick’s

Day, the AmCham Gala, a DJ called San Soda and Gout de France.

March in Hanoi is

jam-packed

Migration and IdentityGoethe-Institut, Ba Dinh

Until Mar. 13

The Goethe Institute is holding an exhibition documenting the new migrant in�ux to Europe, as seen by two Vietnamese artists resident in Germany.

The artists Do Tuan Anh, Duong Thuy Duong were born in Vietnam and have lived in Germany for several years. Their art focuses on questions concerning life with and between two cultures, addressing issues of migration and identity.

Goethe-Institut is at 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. Entry is free

The Destination Point of an Oblique Line

Art Vietnam Gallery, Hoan KiemUntil Mar. 26

Art Vietnam Gallery will be presenting the work of Dinh Thi Tham Poong, an artist who has exhibited internationally and whose works are in the permanent collections of the Singapore Art

Museum, Fukuoka Asean Art Museum, Fukuoka, Japan, the Rupertinum Museum der Moderne Salzburg, Austria and elsewhere.

Entitled The Destination Point of an Oblique Line, according to the gallery, Poong’s new works are the result of the evolution of the artist’s thinking about new ways of seeing. Comprised of many mediums, the collection includes oil on canvas, ceramic fragments held by embroidery and natural bamboo baskets.

Art Vietnam Gallery is at 24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. For more info click on artvietnamgallery.com

Inventions from GermanyVDZ/DAAD, Hai Ba Trung

Mar. 2 to Mar. 8

Goethe Institut is presenting an interactive exhibition featuring German inventions in seven themed areas; computer science, energy, mobility, communication, medicine, optics and materials.

Each category includes �ve to six exhibits that are each explained on an image or text panel, with pictures

to illustrate. There are interactive elements plus �lms and audio stations. The exhibition is bilingual in German and Vietnamese. The exhibit texts are available in English as well.

Admission to the exhibition is free of charge and is from 9am to 6pm daily. VDZ/DAAD (Truong Dai Hoc Bach Khoa Hanoi) is at 1 Dai Co Viet, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

St Patrick’s DayAmerican Club, Hoan Kiem, Mar. 18Intercontinental West Lake, Tay Ho,

Mar. 19

Hanoi will see two major events to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day, both of which are being presented by Magners Cider.

On Mar. 18 at 5.30pm, the American Club will host the St. Patrick Rocks Concert featuring Hipster, a UK-based band and recipient of the Alive Network’s 2015 Artist of the Year Award. There will also be a host of Vietnam-based bands in support. Expect the event to be a great night out

1

a

b

2

3 PHOTO BY DAVID AUSSERHOFER


with food, music and lots of good entertainment. Entrance is VND250,000.

The following evening, the Intercontinental Westlake presents the St. Patrick’s Gala Ball featuring live music, a great Irish meal, Irish coffee, and a free �ow of beer, wine, and Magners Irish Cider. The guest list is limited to 200 people. For reservations email [email protected]. Tickets cost VND2.2 million per person.

For further info on both events click on facebook.com/SPDHanoi

San SodaCAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung

Friday, Mar. 18

DJ San Soda has been playing around the world pretty much non-stop for the last half decade, his music selections couched in US house and techno but calling on Afro, disco or electro when required. Most often found playing vinyl, preferably on rotary mixers and in his own unique way, this Belgium-born but Berlin-based talent likes his careful

selections do the talking. At ATK his talent will be on show

in his predictably unpredictable DJ sets, which are made up of carefully chosen gems unearthed from years of digging. San Soda is also co-founder of the We Play House label, which has been the home to most of his textured, analogue house and techno releases.

CAMA ATK is at 73A Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm. Entrance TBA

Wellness WorkshopsZenith Yoga Studio I & Café

Mar. 18 to Mar. 27

French holistic teacher Mamouchka is holding a series of wellness-related workshops in mid-March. These include an emotion and feelings workshop on Mar. 18 at 6pm; a detox, nutrition and blood types workshop on the morning of Mar. 19, all-day cranio-sacral osteopathy biodynamic therapy (CST) on Mar. 20, and an afternoon foot massage workshop on Mar. 27.

Fees range from US$20 for the

emotion and feelings workshop to US$160 for the all-day event.

Zenith Yoga Studio I & Café is at 247B Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi. For info call 0904 356561 or 09885 954260, alternatively click on zenithyogavietnam.com

Gout de FranceVarious locationsMonday, Mar. 21

More than two dozen restaurants in Vietnam will take part in the Good France culinary event to be held on Mar. 21. This is a worldwide event featuring over 1,500 restaurants that began last year on the initiative of famous chef Alain Ducasse.

The meals will follow a set pattern: aperitif and canapés, starter, main course (s), cheese, dessert (s), French wines and champagnes.

Participating restaurants in Hanoi include La Badiane, French Grill, Green Tangerine, La Vertical and Le Jardin French Bistro. For the full list of participating restaurants and the menu for the day, click on goodfrance.com. At the time of writing the information was only in French

4

5 6


To DolistHanoi

1. Im

ages

fro

m p

revi

ous

editi

ons

of t

he A

mC

ham

Gal

a

2.

Ele

ctro

icon, G

udru

n G

ut,

pla

ys H

anoi o

n M

ar.

23

3.

Kla

us

Legal w

ill p

lay

at

AT

K t

his

month

. M

usi

c to

the e

ars

?

The 2016 AmCham GalaJW Marriott Hanoi, Tu Liem

Monday, Mar. 21

This years installment of the AmCham Gala will be taking place on Mar. 21 at the JW Marriott Hanoi.

An annual event since 1998, this is one of the “must attend” business events of the year in Hanoi. Raising funds for the AmCham Scholars program, which recognizes talented, dynamic, ambitious, and community-minded �nal year students at the best universities in Hanoi, this year’s gala will feature the United States Secretary of Commerce, Penny Pritzker, and visiting members of the President’s Export Council, which includes CEOs of some of America’s most well-known companies.

Every year the AmCham Gala attracts over 400 of the top movers and shakers in Vietnam including Chief Representatives of foreign and local enterprises, heads of diplomatic missions, and many members of the government.

Guests will enjoy a �ve-course gourmet dinner with paired wines,

top-shelf drinks, cool prizes and auctions, as well as great live performances.

Individual seats cost VND3 million each and corporate tables are also available.

For more info click on amchamhanoi.com/event/the-2016-amcham-gala. The JW Marriott is at 8 Do Duc Duc, Tu Liem, Hanoi

Electro Icon On TourGoethe-Institut, Ba Dinh

Wednesday, Mar. 23

Gudrun Gut, one of the founders of experimental electronic band Einstürzende Neubauten, will perform an audiovisual concert in Hanoi on Wednesday, Mar. 23.

Her music ranges from post-punk and techno to indietronics, where she merges electronic vibes with nostalgic sounds of musical genres such as blues or tango. Gudrun complements her innovative music with her own video installations, and is also known for interacting with her audiences. She has played concerts not only in Europe, but also in the US, Latin

America, Russia, New Zealand and Australia.

The Goethe-Institut is at 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. Entrance is free. Tickets are available from 9am on Mar. 14 at the Goethe-Institut

Klaus LegalCAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung

Friday, Mar. 25

Referred to as blinding techno, power electronics, industrial music for eyes and ears, French experimental soundster Klaus Legal produces rhythms and a wave of sounds that get modulated through effects in order to create kind of soundscapes.

Klaus, self-described as “the mensch qui parle with you” is strongly in�uenced by Esplendor Geometrico, Pan Sonic and Sudden Infant, producing electro-acoustic music using light as his main tool. Local experimental acts Sound Awakener and Mathias will be supporting.

CAMA ATK is at 73A Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm. Entrance TBA

1

2 3


Made in Germany

www.bwt-vietnam.com

Europe’s No.1 in Water Technology

Keep your body and mind in balance - Drink clean water!

What is pure water to your body?Pain prevention, fatigue buster, brain boost, calorie control, muscle fuel, immune

system supporter, �uid balance, productivity boost and much more...

Au Lac Do Brazil II Hanoi6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Dist

Tel: (04) 3845 5224 - Fax: (04) 3747 4330 [email protected]

Au Lac Do Brazil III Nha Trang101 Trinh Phong Str, Tan Lap Ward

Tel: (058) 351 6661 - Hotline : 0916451669 [email protected]

Au Lac Do Brazil I HCMC 238 Pasteur, Dist. 3

Tel: (08) 3820 7157 - Fax: (08) 3820 [email protected]

Vietnam's favouriteBrazilian restaurant.

NOW WITH NEW DISHES,

A NEW LOOK AND A NEW FEEL.NOW WITH NEW DISHES,

A NEW LOOK AND A NEW FEEL.WITHWITH NEW DISHES

A NEW FEELWITHWITHWITHWITH NEWNEWNEWNEW

AAAA NEWNEWNEWNEW FEELFEELFEELFEELWITH NEW DISHES,WITHWITHWITHWITH NEWNEWNEWNEW DISHES

DISHESDISHESDISHES,DISHES,DISHES,,,DISHES,DISHES,DISHES,DISHESDISHESDISHESDISHES,DISHESDISHESDISHES

Au Lac Do Brazil II Hanoi

A NEW LOOK AND A NEW

AAAA NEWNEWNEWNEW LOOKLOOKLOOKLOOK ANDANDANDAND AAAA

Au Lac Do Brazil I HCMC

A

238 Pasteur, Dist. 3Tel: (08) 3820 7157 - Fax: (08) 3820 7682

Au Lac Do Brazil II HanoiAu Lac Do Brazil I HCMC

A NEW LOOK

INJust

Hanoi

1. A

t th

e b

egin

nin

g o

f next

month

, A

ccorH

ote

ls is

openin

g t

he �

rst

Novo

tel S

uit

es

in A

sia

2.

Sava

nt

is a

new

ELT

app li

nki

ng t

each

ers

and s

tudents

3.

Save

Vie

tnam

’s W

ildlif

e h

as

just

rele

ase

d 1

6 r

esc

ued p

angolin

s in

to t

he w

ild

4.

Fansi

pan g

ets

a c

able

car

5.

The

buff

et

at

La P

lum

e

6.

HR

C is

now

open d

uri

ng t

he d

ay

and c

om

es

wit

h a

clo

thes

shop a

nd a

n a

rts

space

7. 1

90

0 L

e T

heatr

e o

nly

opened a

t th

e e

nd o

f Ja

nuary

but

is a

lready

pulli

ng in

the c

row

ds

New apps, Hanoi Rock

City, cable cars and

pangolins

First Novotel Suites in Vietnam

AccorHotels has announced that its very �rst Novotel Suites in Asia — Novotel Suites Hanoi — will open in April. The Novotel Suites brand is designed to deliver comfortable stays for both short and long term guests, and is especially aimed at business clients.

Located on Duy Tan, a fast-growing and developed economic area surrounded by business buildings and close to industrial zones, the property offers 151 comfortable units including the contemporary ‘Live N Dream’ studio rooms and one to three-bedroom apartments. Each studio comes fully equipped with a kitchenette within at least 32sqm of space.

Through its F&B outlets, Food Exchange Restaurant and Gourmet Bar, Novotel Suites will also be delivering a gourmet experience created by world-class chefs. In addition, the hotel provides extensive meeting facilities with high-tech audio and visual equipment.

Novotel Suites is at 5 Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Hanoi or online at suitenovotel.com. For more info call Tel: (04) 3576 6666 or email [email protected]

Savvy Teaching AppUK-based language services provider TEFL Express and

Hanoi-based Language Link have released a free Android and iOS app called Savant, which can be used for matching students and teachers based on learning abilities, expertise, age, and location.

According to TEFL Express, the aim is to widen access to TEFL teaching, so that it is not restricted to pricey classrooms and in�exible schedules. Savant uses intuitive technology to �lter search criteria to put compatible students and teachers together.

The app was developed by Suria Labs and is available on the App Store.

For more information and updates, go to savant.express

Free Coworking TrialAfter a delayed opening in the Tay Ho area due to the slowdown at Tet, Toong Coworking Space is �nally up and running.

Based on To Ngoc Van, Toong is offering a free two-week trial up until Mar. 11.

Further details can be found by searching for Trải nghiệm Toong Tô Ngọc Vân on Facebook. Toong Coworking Space is at 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi

Pangolin ReleaseThe Carnivore and Pangolin Conservation Program (CPCP), a collaboration, a collaboration

between Save Vietnam's Wildlife (SVW) and Cuc Phuong National Park, released 16 Sunda Pangolins into the wild last month after rescuing them from the wildlife trade and rehabilitating them at SVW/CPCP in Cuc Phuong National Park, Ninh Binh.

This release occurred in the lead-up to World Pangolin Day. Pangolins are the most traded animals in the world. Vietnam has two species (Sunda pangolin and Chinese pangolin) and both are critically endangered, which means they face an imminent threat of becoming extinct in the wild.

For more information click on savevietnamswildlife.org

Peak ExperienceIf the likes of Mont Blanc has done it, why can’t Fansipan? That is the reckoning behind the February opening of a cable car system that smashes two Guinness World Records.

Serving visitors in the northern Vietnamese province of Lao Cai, the Fansipan Sa Pa system will take tourists from the Muong Hoa Valley to the 3,143-meter peak of Fansipan Mountain, Indochina’s highest summit.

At over 6km long, the Fansipan Sa Pa has been recognized by the Guinness Book of World Records as the world’s longest three-rope cable-car route. It also sets a record for the

12

3

world’s biggest vertical ascent between departure and arrival, measuring in at 1,410 metres.

Each cable car is capable of carrying 30 to 35 passengers, and the whole system can transport up to 2,000 tourists per hour, reaching the summit in just 15 minutes.

All meaning that the once mystical peak of Fansipan Mountain, a destination that required two to three days trekking, can now be reached in just a quarter of an hour.

Just what we wanted.

La Plume Bistro and Lounge

Open at the end of 2015, La Plume is the latest incarnation of the restaurant in Hanoi’s Press Club.

Located a stone’s throw from the Opera House, La Plume continues its top-end mix of international cuisine that we remember from the past. At the end of February they brought in two-star Michelin Chef Alain Dutournier for a Table du Chef experience. Man at the helm at Carré des Feuillants in Paris, the introduction of such quality fare is part of La Plume’s desire to be at the forefront of the top-end dining scene in Hanoi.

La Plume is on the third �oor of the Press Club Building, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. Check out their Facebook page for their promotions and events

HRC Branches OutIn an effort to diversify and to use their space during the day, Hanoi Rock City have welcomed in a number of outside entities into their venue. Working together with HIV Nation (Hanoi Interdisciplinary Venture), the goal is to create a community space to help mentor people into becoming social entrepreneurs.

Two shops have already opened. Flanh is a clothes shop, offering second-hand designer clothes for men and women. The style is somewhere in between vintage and modern and the shop also offers tailoring services. Prices are from VND150,000 to VND600,000 an item.

The Phosphorescent Fascist Fandango is a hand poked tattoo, open art studio space by Karen Labis (tattoo artist) and Loren Hendin (writer and artist). It’s a place to come together to create art and crafts, hold a workshop, sell your art or get a tattoo.

In addition, HRC is now operating during the day selling coffee and food and offering a different atmosphere to that at night. The Sausage Man will soon open a kitchen there.

The fundamental core of HRC hasn’t change — they are still a beloved music venue at night, a great place to hang out and have a good time.

Hanoi Rock City is at 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi

1900 Le ThéâtreSet in an old theatre once dedicated to the traditional folk art, Tuong, 1900 Le Theatre is a bar and nightclub with nightly DJing events and promotions.

Decorated with paintings that give an insight into the history of Hanoi and Vietnam, the venue sells top-shelf spirits as well as beer and cocktails, with drinks by the glass costing between VND40,000 and VND120,000 a go. At times the atmosphere can get electric.

In an attempt to make their space accessible to a wider audience, 1900 is planning to host a range of Vietnamese cultural and art activities during the day. So, watch this space!

1900 Le Théâtre is at 8 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem or online at 1900.hn

4

5

6 7

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA


InsiderThe Many Faces of Vietnam / Through Our Eyes / The Beautiful People / When Backs are Turned... / The Honey

Hunters / A Vietnamese Mosaic / Saigon's Skybars / Mystery Diner Hanoi / Banh Troi Tau / Mystery Diner HCMC /

Vegetarian Snacks / Bagan with a Holga / Notes From Another City / The Motorbike Diaries

Photo by Francis Xavier


Insider


INSIDER HANOI

The Many Faces of Vietnam

From waiter and stonemason to cashier, Trung Del has taken a meandering route to achieve his dream of

becoming a photographer. Words by Vu Ha Kim Vy

I �rst met Trung Del on a business trip to Hanoi last September. He was friendly, wore an army shirt and had his long hair tied up into a little bun. Originally from

Thai Binh, Trung spent hours teaching me how to use my new Nikon camera while I collected fragmentary stories of his life.

Trung never knew his father; all he knows is that his father left for Germany a long time ago. Since he was 12, he has been dreaming of going to Germany to �nd him.

“When I was younger I thought that all western people spoke English. So I learnt English as hard as I could in order to get a scholarship to Germany,” he says. “But I would still like to go there because of its free photography courses.”

He pursued his English studies until his junior year of university, when he dropped out due to �nancial problems. On leaving his studies, he set off for the Vietnamese Highlands in search of a better life.

Life is not EasyBefore of�cially working in the photography industry, Trung plied his trade in many �elds. The list includes being a stonemason in the Highlands, a delivery driver, a café waiter, a cashier for a cosmetic company, clothing salesman and a waiter at the once popular downtown hang-out, Southgate.

“I worked doubles at Southgate Hanoi for two reasons — it wanted to learn hospitality skills and rebuild my English.” He pauses for a while and then laughs. “In fact, it was more about the free staff meals.”

After Southgate closed down, he again went back to his café waiter job at a café-cum-photography-lab called Zone5. This gave him his �rst step towards a life in photography.

The PassionThe more photographers Trung met at Zone5, the stronger his passion for photography became. Feeling the excitement brought on by the images taken by other people, Trung decided to buy his �rst camera.

“It was 2012 when I bought my Canon FTb for VND600,000,” he says. “Then I drove to Thai Nguyen to buy an old VND800,000 lens.”

In 2013, Trung began shooting a project on street life and bumped into well-known photographer Justin Mott, a friend of the owner of Southgate. Justin offered him an internship and Trung ended up working for him as an assistant for a year.

Through Southgate Trung also met Thiep Nguyen, a photographer with the American MIA programme. Once again, he worked as an assistant for Thiep. Between Thiep and Justin, Trung got vital, on-the-job experience. Since then he has worked with a number of other photographers including Aaron Joel Santos, Christian Berg, Chris McGrath, Andrew Rowatt, Jose Ferreira, Marcel Lam and Tim Barker.

“Working with professional photographers has inspired me and has made me want to become a true photographer,” he says. “But because of the �nancial pressures and the fact that I don’t have a stable income, I’ve become a professional photography assistant instead.”

He adds: “In Vietnam, anyone who has a camera is regarded as a photographer. Becoming a photography assistant is more interesting, and it’s certainly more unusual.”


Day 3337-year-old Phuong sells conical hats. After helping him make a sale to a foreign couple, he was happy to post for a portrait.

Day 8Ramlan is a 58-year-old taxi driver in Kuala Lumpur. He moved to the

Malaysian capital 15 years ago from a poor village, and has been working as a driver ever since.

Day 2Born in 1995, Huy works as a security guard on Hoan Kiem Lake.

He has been working there for almost two years since he failed the entrance examination to university.

Day 1120-year-old Sebastian Port is a juggler, a Reiki practitioner

and a psychedelic artist. He is at Kuala Lumpur Airport waiting for his connecting �ight to India.


Project 365On Trung’s 30th birthday he bought himself a Lomography Petzval Art Lens 85mm f2.2 — he’d been saving up for it for almost a year. A reproduction of a piece of photographic equipment designed in 1840 by Joseph Petzval, the lens creates a number of aberrations including field curvature and a high level of vignetting that make it perfect for shooting portraits that come with effects that you can’t create in post-production.

Trung’s project was to shoot one portrait every day for a whole year. Then, for his 31st birthday he would print a photobook — each image would come with the name of the person, their age and their job title. “If I couldn’t shoot any portraits in one day,” says Trung, “I would fail.”

For the first two months, the project went well, but then on day 60, he hit a wall. Working on a job in Saigon with an architecture photographer, his day finished at 11.50 in the evening, not leaving him enough time to find a subject for his portrait. The project was abandoned.

To follow are images from the first 60 days of shooting his portraits. Says Trung, “I’ve promised myself that I will soon find another portrait project to get stuck into.”

Day 52Thai Chau is a friend from Saigon. Born in 1987, he’s now

a singer and a tattoo artist. Last year he performed at the Monsoon Music Festival in Hanoi.

Day 26A cleaner at Guangzhou International Airport. I couldn’t talk

to her but she was pleased to pose for a photo.

Day 24Vuong is 55 years old. She brings �owers from her village 40kms

from Hanoi to sell at the biggest �ower market in town.

Through Our Eyes

Word means writing. It means words and sentences, paragraphs and articles. It doesn’t mean photos. Yet we

take our photography seriously.We get so much good feedback on the

quality of our photography, that this month we decided to give the written word a break and to let the photos do the talking. The result? Photo essays created by all of our photographers that give an insight into modern-day Vietnam.

From commercial reality and the ever-present theme of change, through to streetlights, Tet, the destruction of the past, the epic countryside, the markets and street food, our photographers have come up with a range of stories which reflect their personal view of Vietnam.

We hope you enjoy what we have put together. A compilation of photos may seem simple, but as with all art forms, it’s required a lot of time, thought and effort.

Cover Story


The MarketsNatalia Martínez

desdevietngon.wordpress.com

The BeachNick Ross

nickross.co

Natural WondersJesse Meadows

messyjeadows.tumblr.com

The Colours of TetVu Bao Khanh

vubaokhanh.com

StreetlightsJulie Vola

julievola.com

Old BuildingsFrancis Xavier

franswissxavier.tumblr.com

Before and AfterMads Monsen

madsmonsen.com | omcollectionstore.com

Street FoodKyle Phanroy

�ickr.com/photos/phanroyphotography

I knew that moving to Vietnam would bring me an endless list of wonderful experiences, as well as some awesome food adventures.

During my �rst days in Ho Chi Minh City I wandered around its streets on foot, as I was too afraid to join the motorbike madness. It surprised me how many of these streets were a smorgasbord of food; I had never been in a place where there was an opportunity to eat in every single corner and alley.

Getting lost, I would end up in narrow streets that would lead me to local markets, and through them I discovered and explored the roots of Vietnamese cuisine. How could one country gather so many traditions and

draw such an extended map of �avours? Markets play a crucial role in Vietnamese gastronomy, with all their endless varieties of produce and beautiful colours, not to mention the vendors who add an extra layer of depth to an already rich tapestry.

I have often described myself as food-obsessed, and Vietnam has cemented this facet of my personality. Gastronomically speaking, it opened some horizons that I hadn’t yet crossed.

I feel that maintaining the marketplace culture will be key if we wish to preserve the rich and vibrant traditions of Vietnamese cuisine, especially during this era of burgeoning 21st century consumerism that is already beginning to change the local scene.

The MarketsNatalia Martínez

The BeachNick Ross

When I first came to Vietnam I spent a few days in Phu Quoc. There I discovered the white sand beach, Bai Khem.

Without a soul in sight, it was the perfect image of paradise. Yet when I finally returned last November, I was horrified. The sea had washed up kilo after kilo of trash, rat-infested seafood shacks had sprung up on its shore, and the once deserted, white-sand strip of nirvana was no more. The sea, which at the turn of the millennium was so clear you could see the jellyfish from five metres, had lost that brilliant azure. It was a disaster zone.

Yet on one end of the bay, the JW Marriott is being built. A �ve-star, no holds barred, luxury resort, before they open out of necessity they will clean the beach. The beach will be saved.

Other beaches in Vietnam have been lucky. Dat Doc in Con Dao. Bai Dong south of Nha Trang. The beaches on Ninh Van Bay north of Nha Trang. Bai Ong Lang in Phu Quoc. All thanks to the resorts that nestle on their shores.

It’s a typical Vietnam story. Only where there’s a �nancial incentive will the environment get spared. Otherwise, unless it’s lucky, it falls to pieces.

I just hope that one day it won’t be commercial considerations that save Vietnam from destroying nature, but the needs of the people. To do this requires a change in mindset. It’s coming, I just hope it won’t be too late.

Natural WondersJesse Meadows


Think of a moment when you encountered something so much bigger than yourself, it inspired both wonder and horror. Maybe

you stopped, your breath stolen and your heart pounding, unable to look away, trying in vain to absorb it all and store it in your memory. Maybe you even tried to take a picture, but then you laughed at the poor little substitute for the tremendous sight in front of you.

For me, these moments only happen in

nature. Philosophers have been writing about this phenomenon for centuries. Theologian Rudolf Otto called the experience “Mysterium tremendum et fascinans”, or, a fearful and fascinating mystery.

When I think about Vietnam, it’s not the food, or the motorbikes, or the cities that come to mind. It’s not even the people, resilient and beautiful as they may be. It’s my terror on the precipice of the Ma Pi Leng Pass, my awe at the sheer power of water cascading over Ban Gioc Waterfall, and my

reverence in the majestic caverns of Phong Nha-Ke Bang.

It’s the sublime experiences I’ve had in the face of the most epic natural landscapes I’ve ever seen. The boundlessness of nature can be frightening, like mountain ranges that stretch so far into the distance, you can’t see where they end, or the unstoppable force of a storm rolling in. But these experiences are comforting, too. They remind me that I have no control over the universe; I am just a minuscule part of a much grander whole.

My best memory of Tet, the Lunar New Year, is in Saigon. When I was young, I lived in Ho Chi Minh City for 10 years. During the Tet holidays, the

city was full of colours and lights. I really loved Chinatown in District 5. It was so different to the rest of the city and during the New Year period, it has its own spirit. During Tet this year, I spent the first day wandering around this area.

Before I started working as a photographer, I studied IT. But I quickly realised that I’m not the kind of person who can sit for hours in front of a computer. So I quit the course and took up photography instead.

The more you love photography, the more you see life differently. Tet brings colours and a certain

energy that you cannot see at other times of the year. This is what I tried to capture in this essay.

Shot in the run-up to Tet in Hanoi, each colour I chose in the photo essay is strong and bright. Their shades and brilliance represent the colours I associated with Tet when I was young. Each tint, and every single tone re�ects the emotion and energy of the most important festival in Vietnam’s calendar.

Yet as you get older, the spirit of Tet tends to fade. As a grown-up, getting ready for the New Year is time-consuming and full of worry. This photo essay reminds me of a more carefree period of my life, when I didn’t have to go to school, when I ate candy, cake and played with �recrackers.

It’s important not to forget.

The Colours of TetVu Bao Khanh


At night, the streetlight embraces its surroundings, touches the walls, then slowly evaporates into the void, leaving you with nothing to hold on

to. A mundane alley during daylight hours becomes unrecognisable, though strangely familiar. The streetlight becomes a spot of hope in the middle of the night.

Hanoi has been just that for me. At a time where I could not stand to be where I was anymore, I came to Hanoi, where everything was unknown, foreign but strangely familiar. Hanoi made sense to me, I needed to be here.

These images might create angst and uneasiness, because it might feel like the darkness is getting to you. They are a representation of the Freudian uncanny,

something familiar yet strange, incongruous, creating a con�ict with your experience. I strive for the uncanny; to me, they are peaceful and serene. It’s like a hypnotic eternity that time seems to have abandoned into a heavy silence.

When I am asked about why I fell in love with this Hanoi, my answer is always the same; for its light. It’s a photographer’s love story. Light in Hanoi moves me. Foggy mornings, dawn in summer time, or deep in the night, when I see these types of lights, I know I am where I belong.

Driving at night in Hanoi is when I feel the most free, the happiest. Nobody is on the road. I own it, and in the darkness, I see so many possibilities.

StreetlightsJulie Vola

Old BuildingsFrancis Xavier


When I was a kid I never noticed old buildings. I believed that Vietnam should look modern, that newer is better. But when

I took up photography, I began seeing things differently. I looked up, looked around, and suddenly the structure and details of these buildings began to intrigue me.

I’ve always thought of Saigon as hot and ugly, full of cramped tube houses and motorbikes. But once I started seeing the beauty in these buildings, I see it everywhere. It’s changed the way I look at this city.

What fascinates me is the details — doors, arches, stairs, mosaic glass doors, electric wires — but it’s mostly the stairwells that I like. I like seeing how they’re built, where the light falls, the use of space. You never see this in a modern Vietnamese house.

One of my favourite buildings is The Catinat on Ly Tu Trong, with two separate beautiful stairwells and an old working elevator. The sound of that old elevator makes the whole structure feel like it is alive. The building is doomed — this year it’s due to be knocked down.

I also love the building at 727 Tran Hung Dao, which is said to be haunted. It’s now in a terrible state, with trash everywhere, graf�ti and leaking water. Residents are being forced to move out so the building can be demolished. The Thanh Da Apartment Block in Binh Thanh is also run down. Yet people are still living there and the stairs are nicely lit up at night. This one seems set to survive.

As Teju Cole wrote recently in the New York Times: “Photography is inescapably a memorial art. It selects, out of the �ow of time, a moment to be preserved, with the moments before and after falling away like sheer cliffs.”

Whatever the fate of these buildings, photos such as the ones on these pages will preserve them.

“When the photograph outlives the body,” continued Cole, “when people die, scenes change, trees grow or are chopped down — it becomes a memorial. And when the thing photographed is a work of art or architecture that has been destroyed, this effect is ampli�ed even further.”

You don’t need to have lived in Vietnam for a long time to notice the change. Businesses open and close, buildings come down and towers spring up

from nowhere. Ca phe sua da is now caffe latte, streetfood stalls have become restaurants, and bars and cafés now ooze style.

Change permeates everything, including our own cells. Yet, the change eludes us until we compare ourselves with an image of our former, younger self.

Photography has the power to make this comparison by freezing a moment of time. A tiny slice, a fraction of a second, kept as a reminder of what once was and of what now is. But once the ‘now’ is shot, even that becomes the past.

District 2 is a great example of this. One of the largest areas in Ho Chi Minh City,

it has undergone a rapid and dramatic change. Until just three years ago it was full of �elds, mangrove and pagodas — it was the countryside within city limits. Now, it is developing at unimaginable speed.

The two photos here show before and after. Before the development, and after the �elds have been cleared.

The gate still remains, but not for long. It will go, too. The colour has also gone, it is no longer lush and green. Yet even this is temporary. The land will soon contain high-rises, roads, cars and motorbikes. Parts of it will be made into manicured public spaces, part will become shops, but all will become the future of Vietnam.

The power of photography allows us to see these differences, to see this comparison, to capture these moments in time that will never occur again.

Before and AfterMads Monsen


My love of Vietnamese food goes back to my childhood. Brought up in San Diego, most of my time spent with my father

revolved around eating. We would always go to the same pho restaurant near his house, and every time I visited my grandmother, she always had a bowl of thit kho trung (caramelized pork and egg) on the stove, and a whole pot for me to take home. After moving to Vietnam, I found comfort in the food.

I like to shoot street food because of the human experience. Beyond eating, there are very few things in life that we are required to do in order to live, and that we take such joy in doing. We love to eat, and our love of

eating spans across almost every culture. You can never de�ne food culture

through photography. Ultimately, until you eat the food in its own particular environment, the experience can never be complete. But through photography you can inspire others to try and experience different cultures.

In Vietnam, street food is everywhere — it’s vital to the metronome that makes this country tick. It also has an amazing ability to bridge social gaps, showing no discrepancy between rich and poor, old or young.

Rather than being marginalized, as street food often is elsewhere, here it’s something for everyone.

Street FoodKyle Phanroy


Insider


If you’re looking for elegance and grace in the female form, the work of Morgan Ommer

will start you off on the right road

INSIDER PHOTO ESSAY

The Beautiful People


Although Morgan Ommer refers jokingly to himself as a “halfling” (through being Vietnamese on his mother’s side), his photography

shows a single-minded dedication to the world of fashion and the beautiful people who inhabit it.

The list of titles he has worked for over an 18-year career tells its own high-society tale — Tatler, Elle, Vogue. And the names of the models who regularly pose for him reads like a Who’s Who of Vietnamese fashion and �lm — Kathy Uyen, Ha Anh Vu, Do Thi Hai Yen and more.

The beauty of the Vietnamese models is complemented by being out�tted by Vietnamese designers or Vietnam-based designers such as Chula. One of his subjects, Trang Khieu, has her own fashion line in Vietnam.

Modesty“I’ve always been interested in fashion, and shot a lot of fashion when I �rst moved to Vietnam in 2010,” he says.

It’s not hard to see why models and magazines seek out his talents, about which he remains modest: “I selected these pictures because they are of famous Vietnamese models and actresses, plus I got lucky, and the pictures turned out okay.”

Whether in a �ve-star hotel or at a hu tieu stall, the pictures amply bring out the elegance and beauty of his subjects, though he prefers to attribute the quality of the

images to the models themselves.“Trang Pham is a good friend of mine,”

he says. “She is an amazing model, and I photographed her for one of the covers of Travel + Leisure at the reception desk of the Metropole Hotel in Hanoi. Trang Khieu won the �rst season of Vietnam’s Next Top Model. She is currently working in Milan. She also has her own fashion line in Vietnam.”

Another of his subjects, Do Thi Hai Yen,

is Vietnam’s most internationally recognised actress. She starred in Phillip Noyce’s 2002 �lm The Quiet American with Brendan Fraser and Michael Caine.

Morgan’s portfolio extends a long way beyond the world of fashion, with his images appearing in international publications like Time, Monocle, and Travel + Leisure. But it’s still the fashion angle that attracts him.

To see more of Morgan’s work click on morganommer.com or noipictures.com


Insider

When you think of portraits, you think of people’s faces. In his latest exhibition, Nha Trang-based photographer Thiery

Beyne has turned this concept on its head.A veteran of the scene — the Frenchman

has been working with cameras for almost 30 years — Thiery has travelled the world, exhibited on numerous occasions, and in 1997 won a prize at the Nikon International Photo Contest for an image taken in India. As he’s the �rst to admit, the problem with such a long career is staying fresh.

“As time goes on it gets much, much harder,” he explains. “You feel like every photo you shoot, you’ve already shot 100 times before. So I’m always on the lookout for something new.”

Striking BackThe “something new” came last year by chance. He was running a photo trip for a resort in Nha Trang when he saw a �sherwoman wearing the most unlikely of t-shirts. So he took a photo of her, but from behind.

“When I got home, I looked at the photo more closely on my computer,” says Thiery. “I said to myself, ‘Maybe this is a new concept,’ taking photos of women’s

backs, with their amazingly coloured hats, headdresses and hairstyles.”

The result is a six-month-long obsession that, he admits with a laugh, has seen him “only looking at women’s backs”.

For Thiery, his images represent the joy of women, a joy symbolized through their choice of clothes, the different colours they wear, the bold prints on the materials they choose, all those things that he says “show their love of life”.

“When I take a photo, the woman I shoot gets a surprise,” he says. “They hear the click of the camera, turn around, look at me astonished and yet always with a smile. They perhaps don’t realise why a photographer is interested in their back, but it can be very amusing and it’s always quite childlike.”

It’s certainly voyeuristic — but then isn’t so much of photography? It also breaks all the rules of the standard portrait. Yet by doing so, Thiery is showing a different side to people, to the subjects of each and every image.

Thiery’s exhibition, Back Photography, is presently being exhibited in Paris at Galerie Anne et Just Jaeckin. To see the full set of images, click on thierybeynephotographer.com and go to the menu entitled femme-women

When Backs are Turned…

As Thiery Beyne has discovered, it’s not just the face that tells you about a person, but their back

INSIDER PHOTO ESSAY


The Honey HuntersINSIDER PHOTO ESSAY

Insider


The Sundarbans mangrove forest in Bangladesh and India is one of the world’s magical places. At 10,000 square kilometres, this UNESCO

World Heritage Site in the Ganges Delta marks a front line between the natural world and the forces that conspire to destroy it.

As the human population expands, that of the creatures contracts, from the endangered royal Bengal tiger, through to the crocodiles and deer, all the way to apis dorsata, the giant honey bee, and the locals who hunt its honey to make a living. Which is where Tim Barker, photographer for NOI Pictures and Lonely Planet, comes in.

“I read about the honey hunters in the Lonely Planet and contacted a tour group who were running a trip [to the Sundarbans],” he says. “We followed the honey hunters in a large boat and then we split off into smaller groups to follow them each time they went out for a hunt. The bees migrate back to the same spots each year so the honey hunters visited nests that they knew about from previous years.”

HostilitiesDescribing it as extreme photography, says Tim: “It was dif�cult terrain to walk in and there was also the constant threat of tigers. We heard stories of many hunters who had been attacked and killed by tigers.”

Other photographers in the group fell into the mud, ruining their cameras, and then, on their last hunt, they ran into a hostile reception.

“When we approached our �nal hunt, the bees sensed us coming as they release a pheromone when they sting, and when other bees sense this they go into defence mode,” he says. “They attacked our group before the guide had lit the torch and we had to run for it. Making matters worse the tides had risen dramatically during our time on the land and we had to cross a river that was now about 1.5m deep.”

There were compensations, however.“The honey is wild and it is the most

delicious honey that I have ever tried,” he says.

To see more of Tim’s work, click on tgbarker.com or go to noipictures.com

Sludge, man-eating tigers and a stinging sensation are all in a day’s work for the honey hunters, as Tim Barker discovered when he caught up with them.


Insider

A Vietnamese

Mosaic

INSIDER PHOTO ESSAY


If you could piece together Ehrin Macksey’s photos into a jigsaw, then you would get a good representation of the

enigmatic puzzle that is Vietnam. Here is a selection of his work


Working full time as a photographer and �lmmaker for almost a decade,

Ehrin Macksey started his career in Vietnam. For him, taking up his profession in this country has been a blessing.

“Vietnamese people are generally really open and friendly, and live quite colourful and dynamic lives,” he explains. “If you go to the countryside or the city you can �nd stories and meet people who are willing to open their lives for you as long as you are respectful to them.”

Yet when he was asked if he wanted to provide a photo essay for this issue of Word, he provided images from all over the world, including everything from industrial photography of dams and factories for corporate annual reports to documenting the social effects of modernisation, HIV, leprosy and prostitution.

We decided to narrow it down. We asked him to get rid of Dubai, Haiti, Switzerland and China and provide us just with images he had shot in Vietnam. The volume of photos we received was immense.

The MosaicThe subject matter we have chosen runs over the following pages and includes images of a boy Ehrin found waiting for a school bus, a young Vietnamese girl with natural blue eyes, a farmer surveying his �elds on the Chinese border and a laughing yoga session in Hanoi. Each image is different, but each captures a different aspect of the tangled web of passions, emotion and scenery that can be found in this country.

Yet ask which images Ehrin loves the most and his response is that he loves all his photos.

“They are all challenging for different reasons and I generally love the process of creating an image,” he explains. “For work I enjoy shooting industrial and corporate [subjects], but for personal reasons I love documentary story telling. It’s the roots of how I became a photographer.”

To see more of Ehrin’s work, go to ehrinmacksey.com or noipictures.com. His video work can be found at vimeo.com/ehrinmacksey


Ho Chi Minh City now has 21 bars

and restaurants located on the city’s rooftops.

Owen Salisbury and

Owen Salisbury and

Owen SalisburyJon Aspin

decided to check them all out to

create a definitive list of what’s

available in Saigon, up on high.

Photos by Kyle Phanroy andOwen Salisbury

INSIDERHCMC

decided to check them all out to

create a definitive list of what’s

available in Saigon, up on high.

Photos by

Sorae

Floors 24-25, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai. Just below Chill.

Clientele: Mostly expats, with a sprinkling of rich Vietnamese thrown inDress Code: NiceBeer: VND60,000 to VND150,000 for a 500ml canCocktails: VND170,000 to VND290,000Drinks List: Whisky heaven, with some genuine rarities. Sake heaven. Sizeable for the rest

A modernist vision of 1980s Japanese

excess, with hanging wire sculptures resembling abstract fishing nets, towering bamboo shelves and pebble gardens. Enjoy pounding, bass-heavy music in comfortable surroundings.

With a wine collection of over 400 bottles — and a whisky collection with bottles whose prices can reach VND99 million — the snobbiest drinker can tipple in smug satisfaction. All the more so because the bartenders are exceedingly knowledgeable, guiding you to a drink you’re certain to love.

The beautiful decor and stunning view of District 1 make this one of the nicest — and most expensive — places to get a drink in Ho Chi Minh City. If you show up from 5.30pm to 7.30pm, Sorae’s happy hour gets you half off most drinks.

In a Nutshell: If you’re an epicurean drinker, Sorae is for you.

Saigon High

Insider


Broma: Not a Bar

41 Nguyen Hue, Q1

Clientele: Walk-ups from the street, it’s mostly a younger crowd, evenly split between foreign and localDress Code: Come as you areBeer: VND80,000 to 190,000Cocktails: VND140,000, except for the �ve-shot Long Island Ice Tea at VND250,000Drinks List: Moderate; more than enough to make excellent cocktails

A lovely, plant-bounded, candle-lit space, where tourists, expats and

locals rub shoulders equably. The view overlooking the new Nguyen Hue is stunning, hinting at a gentrified future for Ho Chi Minh City.

For an even better view, climb the ladder/staircase to Broma’s observatory, a microscopic upstairs that lays out Nguyen Hue all the way to city hall.

The music gets a tri�e loud, though Broma does interesting things with its choice of DJs, creating a different theme every weekend.

If beer is your thing, try local craft beer Te Te, or Spanish import Inedit.

Cocktail recommendations; Broma has a surprisingly creative cocktail list. To beat the heat, try the Kumquat Smash. Alternately, to heat things up, the Rum Bo Hue is the drink for you.

In a Nutshell: Manages to be both relaxed and electric, but the music can get a tri�e loud for talking.

KOTO

2nd �oor, Kumho Asiana Building, 39 Le Duan, Q1

Clientele: 80% foreign — philanthropists and the hip. 20% localDress Code: Casual; tourist chicBeer: VND45,000 to VND99,000Cocktails: VND85,000 to VND105,000Drinks List: Modest, but enough to make some killer cocktails. Broad wine list, but lacking depth

KOTO is a great place to feel good about spending money. Breezy and

garden-like, it is curiously intimate for so spacious a terrace. Perfect for parties and BBQs, KOTO seats 280 people and stands 400. Vincom towers like a purple monolith above, with the rush of traffic and the bustle of a night market below providing plenty to look at.

The inside is more conventional, a hubbub of conversation threaded through with mellow beats. Enjoy a drink at the bar, chatting with the convivial bartenders. All the staff, in fact, are friendly and warm.

KOTO’s only weakness is its limited bar — the top shelf of high-end cognac and scotch is purely for show. Nevertheless, their

house cocktails, the KOTO Colours and the Kojito, are both cool, refreshing examples of the mixologist’s art.

In a Nutshell: For the ethically evolved partier, KOTO is one of the most relaxed and spacious destinations here.

OnTop Bar

20th �oor, Novotel Hotel, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q1

Clientele: Hotel guests and tourists. Word writers on assignmentDress Code: Casual. Hotel guests have to be able to come up straight from the pool, after allBeer: VND95,000 to VND130,000Cocktails: VND165,000Drinks List: Moderately extensive. You won’t �nd rarities, but you won’t be disappointed

Since OnTop is part of Novotel, the standard corporate hotel chic applies;

this bar could be in London, Dubai, Tokyo or San Francisco and look essentially the same. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, of course — it has a comfortable feel, the sort of place where one can while away an evening chatting with good friends.

The view is pleasant, showing off the city from an unexpected angle and allowing for a degree of people-watching not possible from higher vantages.

One of the funnest parts is the range of promotions; 50 percent off every day from 5.30pm to 8pm for starters, and an individual special every day of the week. My personal favourite is Tuesday’s promotion, where you �ip a coin against the bartender. Win, and the drink is on the house. If you lose, of course, you pay up in full.

In a Nutshell: Chill and relaxed, the novel promotions give you something to look forward to every night.

Social Club

23rd �oor, Hotel des Arts, 76-78 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3

Clientele: Wealthier Vietnamese, hotel guests, business-class expats, young urban Vietnamese professionalsDress Code: Smart casual. You don’t need a tie, but no shorts nor sandalsBeer: VND90,000 to VND150,000Cocktails: VND210,000Drinks List: Serious, with a focus on single-malt Scotch and a large selection of wine, including some lovely New World vintages

Decorated in wood panels, with carved screens separating the booths and

elegantly comfy chairs, the closest term is nouveau club chic. Calling back to the Old World while throwing in hints of the new,

it’s only fitting that the bar of the Hotel des Arts should look so nice.

One of the quieter, more elegant watering holes in the city, this is where you head to close that deal and celebrate in style afterwards. The DJ spins out a nice selection of tunes, the perfect blend of energizing and relaxing.

The upstairs bar is a bit less fancy, though the pool and outdoor shower — for when you absolutely must cool off after that fourth mojito — are a nice touch. And the view is breathtaking.

If you’re hungry, the dining nook offers something light-years beyond mere bar food, but beware; prices are steep.

In a Nutshell: Posh; this is the place to bring high-powered out-of-town guests for a sophisticated drink.

OMG!

15-17-19, Nguyen An Ninh, Q1

Clientele: 40% tourist, 60% locals and expats. From young and hip to old and fanny-pack wearing, OMG boasts a diverse crowdDress Code: Casual as it getsBeer: VND90,000 to VND150,000 Cocktails: VND120,000 to VND160,000 Drinks List: Boasting around 850 bottles of wine, the spirits selection is limited at present, but should be moderately extensive by the time you read this

With a remodelling that should be finished by the time this goes

to print, OMG is looking to tone up its image. The indoor area is being transformed into a gourmet restaurant complete with oyster bar, curated wine-appreciation dinners and whisky mentoring.

Though not as immediately impressive as other views, OMG has an almost hypnotic vantage point of the Ben Thanh roundabout — watch traf�c swirl around as though it were the legendary maelstrom, while Bitexco Tower shines above like a starship ready for launch.

Happy Hour is from 6pm to 8pm, with a smart selection of sparkling wines. If music is your thing, OMG provides it; if you’re lucky, the manager himself will hop up and spin the tables.

In a Nutshell: Location, location, location. And we can’t wait to try the new menu, either.

Shri

23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3

Clientele: Upscale expats, people who can afford to dress nice, hip young Vietnamese professionals


Clientele: Hotel guests — a broad mix of people, young to old, local to foreignDress Code: Casual, but shorts and sandals will feel under-dressed for the attractive dining areaBeer: VND85,000 to VND110,000Cocktails: From VND110,000Drinks List: Standards and favourites

The only major contender outside of the District 1 gravity well, Top of the

Town is located on top of the Windsor Hotel — itself the first five-star hotel outside of District 1. The dining room and conference rooms are spacious and elegant, while the terrace bar is all glowing moulded plastic, flashing dance-floor and loud, loud music.

The cocktail menu is classic, featuring

Singapore slings, mai tais, martinis and the rest of the gang. For food, the restaurant is just next door, so no need to keep nibbling at the bowls of nuts they provide.

Renovations should be complete by the time of publication, so expect a sweeping view of District 5, with the glittering District 1 skyline shining to the east. Come at sunset to enjoy the light of that golden hour shining through the vines curling up the outside of the bar.

Come for Top of the Town’s Happy Hour from 4pm to 7pm daily for half off selected drinks.

In a Nutshell: For luxury outside District 1, there’s no other choice. The newly renovated terrace promises to be stunning.

Top of the Town

18, An Duong Vuong, Q5


Clientele: Rich people and their hangers-on; tourists; the young and gorgeousDress Code: Smart casual. No sandals, no shortsBeer: VND140,000 to VND180,000Cocktails: VND210,000 to VND520,000Drinks List: Solid but not spectacular — a focus on the classic and the recognizable

The name is misleading. Chill is all flashing lights and breathtaking

views of the city, an aggressively modern place for the smart set to congregate in. Packed with party people, it can be a tad difficult to discuss literature or philosophy while the music is pounding away. With bottle-service galore, this is one of

the places the wealthy come to amuse themselves, and it’s one of the loudest, fullest skybars in town.

An absolutely stunning view of District 1 is mostly ignored by the clientele, but trust me, you’ll want to walk the edge and stare, slack-jawed, at the Ho Chi Minh City skyline.

Cocktail recommendation; try the Berry Sour, a concoction of port, Bulleit bourbon, egg whites, red berry tea, sugar syrup and fresh lemon juice. Sweet and tart, it’s a perfect complement to the �ashing lights, thumping bass and glowing bar.

In a Nutshell: Smart casual may leave you feeling under-dressed; this is where the beautiful expats come to play.

Chill Skybar

Floors 26-27, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1


Dress Code: Smart casual during dinner hours; for earlier or later drinks, tourist-casual is okBeer: VND60,000 to VND170,000Cocktails: VND190,000Drinks List: Extensive, with a selection of Scotch that is among the best in the city

An elegantly decorated restaurant with spectacular views from the outdoor

terrace, Shri at night lays out the city beneath you like a carpet of jewels. The plush chairs and lush profusion of plants make this a marvellous place to let the stress of the day simply melt away. Simply sit in beauty and sip on one of their unique cocktails and emerge refreshed.

Both a bar and a restaurant, Shri carries over 300 wines, from Old World to New, from South Africa to Australia and has an excellent dinner menu.

Happy hour is 4.30pm to 6.30pm daily, and gets you 25 percent off all wines and 50 percent off all other drinks.

In a Nutshell: Hot �rst dates. Or any hot dates, really.

La Vie en Rose

21st Floor, Ben Thanh Tower, 136-138 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1

Clientele: Locals, Japanese, Singaporeans. Serious middle-aged men who mix business with pleasureDress Code: Smart. You can get away with a polo shirt, but next to all those silk ties and

Armani jackets, you’ll feel out of placeBeer: VND140,000Cocktails: VND250,000Drinks List: Large, but understand, this is a bottle-service place. Expect to pay VND3 million and up

La Vie en Rose is not about views, it’s about a plush, crimson luxury. This

is where affluent locals can come to seal their latest business venture over a bottle of high-end liquor. All dim red lights and silent-footed servers, La Vie also serves excellent food, a long, luxurious step above the usual bar fare.

Featuring a different style of live music nightly, La Vie is reminiscent of a 1970s gentlemen-only club, the sort of place an older Don Draper would have gone to brood, wheel and deal, and charm young waitresses.

Cocktail recommendation; featuring a similar menu to Chill, our personal favourites are the On the Sky and Sexy Bar. We’ve got no clue what’s in them, but they tasted great.

In a Nutshell: Got a hankering for bottle service in a dimly-lit, almost mysterious atmosphere?

Breeze

5th �oor, Hotel Majestic, 1 Dong Khoi, Q1

Clientele: Pan-Asian hotel guests, tourists, the occasional localDress Code: Casual

Beer: VND135,000Cocktails: VND170,000 for classics, 185,000 for signatures, 220,000 for champagne cocktailsDrinks List: Bottles galore with prices to match

The stunning, unique panorama of the Saigon River stretches from the Phu My

Bridge in the south to a glimpse of what could be the Saigon Bridge in the north.

With indoor and outdoor seating and several upper terraces, Breeze is built around an elaborate mural and traces of 1920s elegance — an effect slightly marred by the Saigon serenade below of squealing wheels, shrieking brakes and the indignant blat-blats of motorbike horns.

Check out the topmost terrace for a unique view of what Saigon was — small apartments, old men hanging laundry in their boxers — and the towering, gleaming glass skyscrapers that it is becoming.

Try the signature cocktail Happy Saigon, or order one of their rather spif�ng Brandy Alexander’s.

In a Nutshell: Come drink in one of Graham Greene’s old haunts.

Vertical Skybar

Liberty Central, 17 Ton Duc Thang, Q1

Clientele: Hotel guests, tourists, locals looking for romantic view, biz typesDress Code: Hotel casual meets pool casualBeer: VND80,000 to 150,000 plus jugs

Clientele: Tourists, locals looking for a romantic view, business typesDress Code: Tourist-friendly, so come as you areBeer: VND99,000 to 230,000 plus jugsjugsCocktails: VND220,000 to 265,000Drinks List: Capable of making a mean speciality cocktail — and with some exclusive top-shelf choices, too

You’ve literally reached the top here — Eon Heli Bar is the highest bar in the city, and if you can afford it, well, then you’ve probably made it in that sense, too.

Not a place to get hammered and pour out your woes to an ostensibly sympathetic bartender, Eon Heli Bar is all about sociability. Featuring live music at sunset and at 8pm every night, one can wander the ring-shaped bar grooving to the music, or to the mix of foreign tongues that greets your ear. If you want something more disco, a DJ spins from 10pm onward.

With their new Ladies Night in effect every Wednesday as of March, there’s one more reason to go get drop-jawed about the views available at Eon Heli Bar.

In a Nutshell: The highest view in town is not to be missed at sunset.

Eon Heli Bar

52nd �oor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1

Clientele: Tourists, locals looking for a romantic view, business typesDress Code: Tourist-friendly, so come as you areBeer: VND99,000 to 230,000 plus jugsCocktails: VND220,000 to 265,000Drinks List: Capable of making a mean speciality cocktail — and with some exclusive top-shelf choices, too

You’ve literally reached the top here — Eon Heli Bar is the highest bar in the city, and if you can afford it, well, then you’ve probably made it in that sense, too.

Not a place to get hammered and pour out your woes to an ostensibly sympathetic bartender, Eon Heli Bar is all about sociability. Featuring live music at sunset and at 8pm every night, one can wander the ring-shaped bar grooving to the music, or to the mix of foreign tongues that greets your ear. If you want something more disco, a DJ spins from 10pm onward.

With their new Ladies Night in effect every Wednesday as of March, there’s one more reason to go get drop-jawed about the views available at Eon Heli Bar.

In a Nutshell: The highest view in town is not to be missed at sunset.


Cocktails: VND150,000 to 170,000Drinks List: Selective, but able to cover the basics (plus screaming orgasms)

If you want to drink not just poolside but in the pool, Vertical is for you. Featuring

seating that allows guests to dabble their toes and more in the water, Vertical is a great place to �oat in the water and soak up the booze. Remember, though, drunk swimming? Not a good idea.

Vertical features a sweeping view of the Saigon River, offering views of the last undeveloped land near downtown. Which isn’t to take away from the city view; stand by the bar and gaze westward over Ho Chi Minh City through �oor-to-ceiling windows. With lots of sofa seating, Vertical places a premium on their guests’ physical comfort, and the service is top-notch.

Pro-tip: try the screaming orgasm… or any of the other shooters the bartenders will happily make while you watch.

In a Nutshell: For when you want to lay out by the pool in alcoholic splendor.

Rex Rooftop Garden

Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, Ben Nghe, Q1

Dress Code: None Clientele: International, �rst-time in town

crowd, hotel guestsBeer Price: From VND129,000 to VND199,000Cocktail Price: Rex Special Cocktails from VND279,000Drinks list: Quite a few cocktails to choose from and a little bit of everything else. A separate and mostly by the bottle wine list is quite traditional with nods to the city’s colonial past

The Rex Rooftop Garden famously became the favoured hangout for

journalists and military officials during the American War. Guests unaware of this can brush up by perusing the multitude of artefacts on display throughout the almost sartorial terrace.

A true step back in time to French colonialism, the owners have clearly gone to lengths to preserve its place in history. Open-air and with views of Nguyen Hue, this rooftop also features live music every night playing between two crazy elephants and an ornamental royal crown, gifted by a foreign delegation. A must-see for �rst-time visitors, the Rex Rooftop Garden is part of the city’s history, and the Rex itself is one of the original �ve-star hotels in the city. If you’ve got the cash, you can splash out in the opulent ground-�oor luxury shopping mall, then take in the centre of the city upstairs.

In a Nutshell: Get lost in a slice of modern history. A must-see.

Level 23 at The Sheraton

23rd Floor, The Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1

Dress Code: Smart casual Clientele: Hotel guestsBeer Price: from VND120,000Cocktail Price: Popular cocktails from VND195,000Drinks list: A respectable drinks list from this hotel skybar, ticking off everything you’d expect and a little bit more. Good for a pre or after party

This atrium-style hangout could be the perfect place to take in the city

at the start or end of your night. Leafy, airy and with an up-high view of the business district that few can match, the atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming. Friendly staff are more than happy to keep your glass topped up and with a healthy list of signature cocktails to work with, you may just end up staying the night.

Clearly popular with the hotel’s guests, the grand lobby does raise expectations. Gladly, I’d say once you’re seated and comfortable, Level 23 has everything you need to impress that important client, or woo that signi�cant other. There’s a list of wines and single malts to keep most tastes satis�ed and the tempo is generally upbeat. With a range of international guests usually staying at the Sheraton, enjoying a drink here means

The View Rooftop Bar

8th �oor, Duc Vuong Hotel, 195 Bui Vien, Q1

Clientele: It’s Bui Vien. Expect backpackers, dreadlocked hippies, and burnt-out expats who still haven’t discovered the rest of the cityDress Code: ...again, it’s Bui Vien. Just don’t show up nakedBeer: Yes. VND22,000 to VND48,000 for a 500ml canCocktails: VND99,000 to VND119,000Drinks List: Massive, but only covering less pricey forms of booze

Enter through the Duc Vuong hotel lobby and take the elevator up to an almost

Escher-like maze of small rooftop terraces bounded by palm fronds and �owers. The View Rooftop Bar is a nice respite from the hustle and bustle below.

Get a seat near the Bui Vien edge to people watch, or simply stare across the rooftops and enjoy the sight of an old Vietnamese man hanging his laundry. You can also people-watch right in the bar, listening to the babel of people from a dozen countries around the world enjoying the

low-cost drinks and relaxing atmosphere.One of a very small number of bars on

the list serving shooters, the menu features half a dozen types and more. Be warned: though they are cheap at VND30,000 each, you can only order them three at a time. The View also has the longest happy hour in town, from 10am to 6pm. Each day features a different two-for-one cocktail.

In a Nutshell: For those who want to mingle with backpackers, or simply see Bui Vien from a new perspective.


Clientele: From the clued-in and the walk-ins, Air360 brings ‘em allDress Code: Smart casual — no �ip-�ops, no shorts. And smarter more than casual-erBeer: VND180,000Cocktails: VND150,000 to 250,000Drinks List: Solid selection focused on cocktails and spirits, though including beer and wine. Bottle service available

Air360 — the name says it all, an airy playhouse of a skybar

boasting 360-degree views. With a pool, aquariums, multiple levels, winding walkways, and some liver-tingling house cocktails, Air360 just pumps fun from its thundering speakers and pours it from its bottles of hard liquor.

The seating is surprisingly comfortable, particularly the booths — but you may not get one on weekends unless you come early.

Air360 also features plenty of events, including Flirt, their Thursday Ladies Night with two hours of free-�owing cocktails, DJs and an of�cial hostess. Though pricey, save wear on your wallet by visiting during happy hour, from 6pm to 9pm, when VND69,000 will get you any standard drink or bar snack.

In a Nutshell: Two words: Par! Tay!

Air360

22nd to 23rd �oors, Ben Thanh Tower, 136-138 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1


Dress Code: 'Make an Effort'Clientele: Wealthier Vietnamese, business-class expats and hotel guestsBeer Price: from VND90,000 Cocktail Price: from VND240,000Drinks list: An extensive range of �rst-class cocktails from one of the best professionals in the business means you’d be crazy not to enjoy more than one.

A newcomer to Saigon’s skybar scene, Liquid is making all the right noises

in terms of its promotion and schedule of events. Impressive from its plush white cotton socks right up to its black-band fedora, Liquid offers three areas to enjoy the pool, the view, and what are some of the best cocktails in the city.

VIP or not, it’s worth taking in the view of the river and enjoying the service of the attentive and professional staff. The atmosphere is mostly laid-back but don’t be surprised when they start turning it up a notch — they know how to throw a good party. Things can get a little wild on any day of the week, though, and late-night pool antics are not uncommon among guests enjoying the elevated atmosphere. If staying dry is more your thing, park yourself on the mezzanine-level booths and soak in the view of the river.

In a Nutshell: More than you expect it to be. Dress to impress here.

Liquid Skybar

Rennaisance Riverside Hotel, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1


What You SayTogether with social surveying outfit, Townhall, Word recently asked a number of questions on Facebook to see what you think of the city’s skybars. Often criticized for applying strict dress codes or employing over zealous security guards, as of the end of February 2016, here are some of your answers.

1) YOUR FAVOURITE ROOFTOP BARS

At the time of writing, Chill Skybar and Glow were running neck and neck for top spot with Shri following on in a close third place

2) SHOULD THERE BE A DRESS CODE?43 percent of you voted yes, with 39 percent clicking on no. Reasons for yes included:

— There’s a better vibe when people look good— They should be different from a backpacker hangout— A great place means a special dress code

The naysayers among you said:

— Everybody should be free to enjoy a rooftop bar— Most of the city's rooftop bars are too pretentious already— People need to be able to chill

3) WHICH MUSIC SHOULD BE PLAYED?Leading the way quite clearly on this front was House music, with jazz and soul / RnB following on in second and third

The full answers will be published at the end of March 2016. To see the whole set of questions and to give your own thoughts, please click on wordvietnam.townhallapp.io

you never know who you might run into to. De�nitely one of the best outlooks in Ho Chi Minh City.

In a Nutshell: Take advantage of their special offers, but don’t hold back here.

Cobalt

Pullman Saigon, 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1

Dress Code: Smart casual Clientele: Mostly hotel guests and wealthier localsBeer Price: from VND100,000Cocktail Price: from VND190,000Drinks list: This is a wine bar, so the selection of New and Old World wines is impressive. All the classic cocktails are covered and there’s a solid choice of whiskey’s, single malts and the full range of liquors to keep your night alive

Located close to what many might describe as the centre of Saigon’s

nightlife in Pham Ngu Lao, Cobalt rooftop is an opportunity to get away from it all. Offering peace and quiet in a spacious and

Dress Code: Smart casual Clientele: Wealthier Vietnamese, hotel guests, international business peopleBeer Price: From VND98,000 to VND350,000 for some imported Belgian brandsCocktail Price: Luxury cocktails for VND220,000Drinks list: Good selection of international beers, New World wines, spirits and cocktails to suit most travellers’ and locals’ tastes

One of the best-known rooftop bars in the city. Bearing witness to some

significant slices of history over the years, long-termers might liken it to a

fond relative — great value on any given night. With the option of the Bitexco Tower-facing terrace for larger groups, or more intimate balcony-side drinks, (great for people watching on Lam Son Square) Saigon Saigon is very much ‘at the heart’ of the city, and sits atop the famous Caravelle Hotel. Regular doses of live music entertainment will get most feet tapping and the mixed local and international crowd keeps it on the map as a place where guests mix business and pleasure.

In a Nutshell: Impress your date or party with your new colleagues.

luxurious setting, this rooftop is perched 30 floors above the madness of the area below.

Often quiet during the early or late evening, enjoy the serenity of having this gem to yourself. Comfortable seating arrangements including some highly sought-after couches mean you might just extend your stay, and the long view of District 1 is entrancing for �rst time visitors.

In a Nutshell: Stay a little longer. Perfect to wind down after a long day’s sightseeing.

Glow

President Place, 93 Nguyen Du, Q1

Dress code: You can probably do smart, knee-length shorts, but de�nitely no �ip-�ops and tank topsClientele: The idle rich and those who want to be the idle rich; westerners who like feeling rich in AsiaBeer Price: In the VND100,000 rangeCocktail Price: from VND150,000Drinks list: The cocktails here are

phenomenal, at least they certainly were when we tried them. Also has an extensive wine list and, naturally, lots of bubbly

Reality TV-style decor (think The Bachelor), Glow is in the aspirational,

California Dreaming range, and it does it well. Beach-bar stripy cushions, Big Brother on-the-spot seating, a light-box oval bar, palm trees, excellent cocktails and bottle service aplenty, this is a place to be young, hip and wealthy. Just don’t go here when it rains — it will be a washout. When it’s dry? This is a joint to write home about. This is a well-dressed, well-heeled bar with an ambience and a great sound system to match.

In a Nutshell: A place that talks the talk and walks the walk

Saigon Saigon Rooftop Bar

9th Floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1


MYSTERY DINER HANOI

Food and Drink

Mystery DinerSouth American steakhouses seem to be getting rather popular

these days. So how well cut out for the beef fest is Rico Steakhouse? Our mystery diner finds out. Photos by Vu Bao Khanh

Rico South American Steakhouse looks like what would happen if a minimalist painter teamed up with Hemingway to design a

restaurant. Bare grey walls are broken up by artwork with splashes of colour, and napkins as red as a torero’s muleta complement the dark studded leather chairs and booths. The courtyard at the entrance is less severe, softened by potted plants. On one side the kitchen is visible through a large pane of glass, allowing observers to watch the cooks prepare the food as if in an aquarium display, a quirky feature that makes you wonder how the kitchen staff feel about it.

Arriving late, we saw our friend nursing an Old Fashioned (VND95,000). “The staff took care of me,” he explained, shrugging off our apologies. They continued to take care of us throughout the night, striking the perfect balance between being welcoming and attentive without being overbearing.

But all of this is merely window dressing. For a steakhouse, what really matters is the steak. Rico offers many different cuts of beef, including wagyu and Australian steaks, with a variety of choices for sides and sauces. I chose the 200-gram Australian tenderloin

(VND389,000), rare, with nothing but a glass of shiraz (VND150,000) to accompany it. My friends opted for pork ribs (VND279,000) and an Australian ribeye (VND339,000), with baked potatoes, spinach, and grilled corn for sides (each side dish is VND59,000).

Bring on the BeefMy tenderloin came out thick and perfectly cooked; I attacked it like a matador performing an estocada, slicing until the juices ran freely. The meat practically melted in my mouth. We were all silent for a good 10 minutes as we set about the serious business of tucking in, cave-people communicating solely in grunts and moans of satisfaction, almost as if we had fought and killed the meal ourselves.

Eventually we slowed down enough to share. The pork ribs were tender, the meat nearly falling off the bone, and came with an incredible honey-mustard sauce. The ribeye was a bit chewy for my taste, as it was ordered medium-rare, but dipped in a red wine sauce (VND49,000) that came in a tiny saucepan (kept warm on a metal plate over a tea light), it had a wonderful �avour.

In spite of its small size, the baked potato

was presented beautifully and had some tasty accoutrements (sour cream and spring onions took a starring role), while the grilled corn was good, but not particularly noteworthy. The spinach was delicious; although never a favourite of mine, I found myself enjoying it immensely and wondering if I had matured. Upon further re�ection (and after losing a knife-�ght to my friend across the table), I decided that was not it.

For dessert we split a crepe with chocolate ice cream (VND89,000) and a chocolate fondant (VND59,000), which went nearly as well with our red wines as the meat did. Although a pleasant end to the meal, the desserts did not particularly stand out; the presentation was lovely but the fondant was not as rich as I would have liked. The focus here is clearly on the steaks, as it should be.

Rico’s stellar steaks and service should recommend it to meat-lovers everywhere. I set out in search of an answer to the age-old question, “Where’s the beef?” and although it has only been open since December, Rico South American Steakhouse has managed to respond with a resounding “Here!”

Rico South American Steakhouse is located at 56 Tran Quoc Toan, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

14SERVICE

11DÉCOR

13FOOD

THE VERDICT

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale

of 0 to 15.13 — 15

extraordinary to perfection10 — 12.5

very good to excellent

8 — 9.5 good to very good

5 — 7.5 fair to good

0 — 4.5 poor to fair

The Word reviews

anonymously and pays for all

meals


Food and Drink

STREET SNACKER HANOI

Banh Troi TauIt’s winter and you’re in search of some sugar,

something sweet to give you some energy. What could be better than banh troi tau?

Words by Jesse Meadows. Photos by Vu Bao Khanh

syrupy soup below. I picked up an entire dumpling, attempting to put it all in my mouth at once, when our photographer laughed. “Cut it �rst!” Khanh advised. So I sliced it open and found a thick yellow �lling dotted with shredded coconut. I took one bite, and then the bowl was gone in seconds. My brain wanted more, and at VND15,000, it’s no stretch to get a second. This dish is surprisingly �lling for its size.

We sat for a while and watched the women at work. The dumplings are made fresh each day, lined up in a basket and ready for boiling. Mung bean paste and shredded coconut are rolled together and wrapped in a shell of glutinous rice �our. Then, the little white balls are tossed into a giant boiling pot and boiled in homemade

ginger syrup, where they sink to the bottom. You’ll know they’re fully cooked when they �oat to the surface, where they are ladled into a bowl with a hearty serving of sweet broth, topped with fresh coconut milk, and sprinkled with peanuts.

Typically popular as a snack between lunch and dinner, banh troi tau satis�es in three ways. First, the harsh bite of ginger syrup warms your throat like a healing tea, then the sugary coconut milk soothes you, and �nally, the heavy dumplings �ll your stomach. It’s truly impressive the amount of bases this simple dish is able to cover. It’s strictly a winter delicacy, though, so be sure to get your hands on some before the weather warms up again.

Che Huong Hai is at 93 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

When we talk about dessert in Vietnam, what we’re really talking about is che. It’s a word used to describe a myriad of

sweet combinations, but it is essentially a soup or pudding that can be topped with anything from red beans to green jellies to lotus seeds to fruits, depending on your preferences. Though it’s wildly popular with the locals, che tends to have a cold, gooey consistency that can be unsettling for newcomers. Enter banh troi tau, the most comforting member of the che family, especially when the weather turns cold.

We had a bit of trouble �nding a dedicated banh troi tau stand, as most had shuttered for the Tet holiday, so we resorted to a che spot we knew would be open for business: Che Huong Hai (93 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem), family-owned and serving up sweet goodies since 1985. There on the sidewalk was a bubbling cauldron, little white dumplings bouncing on the surface. It’s a small hole-in-the-wall place frequented by locals and passing tourists alike, with a very helpful picture menu for the Westerners. As soon as we crouched down on our little plastic stools, we had two small bowls of steaming goodness in front of us.

The Kindest CutTwo yellow dumplings �oat in the middle of a white sea, sprinkled with chopped peanuts. Dip your spoon below the creamy surface and you’ll �nd a dark-brown,


Food and Drink

MYSTERY DINER HCMC

R&J Italian Lounge and Restaurant

Aspiring to Michelin-star greatness, R&J is a hotel restaurant that screams bling. So, what does our Mystery Diner think? Photos by Kyle Phanroy

Opulent. Extravagant. Lavish. It’s easy to run out of adjectives walking into R&J Italian Lounge and Restaurant; it’s like an

upscale, 21st-century opium den, or the Las Vegas penthouse of an oil sheikh’s spoiled son.

Mosaic walls and mirrors, wood and marble, plush couches and vividly upholstered chairs, all under a swirling galactic ceiling. It’s rich, all right, but the effect is more overwhelming than awe-inspiring.

My date and I sipped on complimentary Bloody Marys — created in front of us, and served inside hollowed-out tomatoes atop crushed ice — and began our run at the menu. We ordered a large San Pellegrino (VND168,000) and my date chose a Chilean Sauvignon Blanc from the Viu Manent winery (VND188,000).

My date and I enjoy sampling widely from a restaurant’s offerings; this time one of us was celebrating a birthday, a good reason to indulge.

Also, I welcome a challenge, and reviewing one of the restaurants at Ho Chi Minh City’s sole six-star hotel is just that; it is, in some ways, the closest thing we have to a Michelin star in our midst.

Eat, Drink and Be MerryIndulge we did, beginning with burrata (VND188,000), a dairy-fresh ball of mozzarella and cream surrounded by a skin of pure mozzarella. Next came the zuppa di pesce (VND288,000), a smooth slow-cooked blend of ocean �avours topped with garlic croutons.

My date opted for the cartoccio (VND268,000), a paper-wrapped sea of wine-dark squid-ink tagliolini, swirled with seafood and scarlet cherry tomatoes.

I took it up a notch, choosing the �ve-course Terra tasting menu, paired with assorted 12- and 15-year-old single malt Scotches (VND1,288,000). The mixed salad was good and delighted the eye — in fact, most everything at R&J was beautiful and cleverly plated.

The �rst real standout was the battuta — Piedmontese-style beef tartare, a dish not so much served as performed. My favourite was the caramella, a pasta of pumpkin, mushrooms and sweet free-range rabbit. The �nale was the brasato; slow-cooked lamb shoulder, mashed potatoes and veggies assembled into an edible leaning tower, all lightly coated with coffee jus.

As if this weren’t enough, we ate tagliata di manzo (VND588,000) a simple salad mounded atop sliced US ribeye.

Finally, we split the tortino that �nished my tasting menu; warm chocolate cake garnished with raspberries and served with vanilla ice cream. I splurged on a glass of Joÿ XO Bas-Armagnac (VND298,000) a liquid exclamation mark for the gastronomic adventure we’d just had.

Throughout, service was swift, ticking every box of manners and ef�ciency. Watching those speci�c few drinks and dishes being created in front of us was highly entertaining, and the bartender endured my barrage of questions with good humour.

A Brief IntermezzoEvery dish was creative and some — the zuppa, the cartoccio, the caramella — were brilliant, but note that a Mystery Diner judges restaurants based on what they set out to accomplish (and yes, on how highly they price themselves). A slightly cheaper eatery that reaches its goals will earn higher marks than a top-�ight chophouse that barely misses the mark.

To clarify one more thing; the food was very, very good. Executive Chef Giovanni Parrella comes from a century-long family tradition of running restaurants, and he has assembled a superb selection of delectable comestibles.

14SERVICE

11.5DÉCOR

14FOOD

THE VERDICT

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale

of 0 to 15.13 — 15

extraordinary to perfection10 — 12.5

very good to excellent

8 — 9.5 good to very good

5 — 7.5 fair to good

0 — 4.5 poor to fair

The Word reviews

anonymously and pays for all

meals

Michelin AnticipationI’ve been to Michelin-starred restaurants on three continents. R&J aspires to that elite company — and nearly makes it (in fact, I’d rate it better in nearly every aspect than a particular one-star I dined at in the US).

But in some ways, R&J, as good as it is, doesn’t quite measure up. They are minor quibbles, perhaps, but when one is paying this much, every detail matters; service, drinks menus, the precise wine or whisky pairings, the inspiration in every dish, every bite, those �nal creative touches to the food that make it dazzle and delight. R&J is almost there. Almost.

That R&J isn’t at such a world-beating level yet is as much due to the evolving nature of Ho Chi Minh City’s dining culture as anything they have or haven’t done. As this culture matures, those details will fall into place for many restaurants — including, I don’t doubt, R&J. In fact, they may someday be the �rst to earn that coveted Michelin star, when Vietnam gets a guide.

Regardless, R&J Restaurant is de�nitely a top-tier establishment, a place to go for indulgences and celebrations.

R&J is at the Reverie Saigon, 22-36 Nguyen Hue, Q1, HCMC

STREET SNACKER HCMC

Food and Drink

Vegetarian SnacksWhere once vegetarian street food was difficult to find, now it is almost

everywhere. And it’s nothing to do with Buddhism, either. Vi Pham traces a trend. Photos by Owen Salisbury

As Tet always comes and leaves with a wave of food, now is the time when all the taste buds need a break from the meaty

and greasy protein. For this, eating a vegetarian snack is one of the best choices. Even though vegetarian food has long been a part of Vietnamese cuisine, it was not until recent years that vegetarian street snacks have garnered attention. More vegetarian food stalls and small-sized veggie hubs are popping up around town with a wide range of dishes to choose from, making healthy snacks a reality.

Beyond ReligionVegetarian snacks have not become popular without reason. It has always been there in the dining culture of Vietnam and for centuries, vegetables have been a must-have part of a typical Vietnamese home meal.

Vegetarian food used to be consumed only for religious reasons, when Vietnamese families would have vegetarian meals on the last, the first and the middle days of a lunar month. But young modern-day consumers are aware of the health benefits of vegetarian food. And older

adults are viewing vegetarian recipes as a healthier, more environmentally friendly alternative.

Cuisine prepared without meat also represents a promising market. Since people do not just eat vegetarian food based on the lunar calendar, the demand for vegetarian snacks has increased to meet daily demand. If one could previously only find vegetarian dishes around temples and pagodas, vegetarian street snacks are now available everywhere — from eating areas in the markets, on the street and in restaurants.

“I'm not really religious but I’ve beaten cancer with a vegetarian diet, so I want everyone to know vegetables can give them a better life,” says Ms. Lien, the owner of a small vegetarian snacking corner in Binh Thanh District when asked about her business motivation. “Eat more of my snacks and you’ll have better skin, too,” she adds as I dip into bi do kho — pumpkin cooked with soy sauce after a bowl of hu tieu chay — vegetarian noodle soup.

Good Food, Good Price Another reason for the increasing availability

and consumption of vegetarian snacks is price. They are affordable to all social classes as the recipes are often simple and do not require too many ingredients. Despite being low-cost, the quality remains beneficial.

Unlike other snacks that provide mainly empty calories, vegetarian snacks are high in fibre and rich in protein. They also give your stomach a break from too much protein. For only VND50,000, you can buy a set of various vegetarian snacks for four people. One interesting thing I’ve noticed while driving around town is that many vegetarian snack stalls can be found near

or in front of schools — students love to snack on meatless meals anytime of the day.

“So I won’t be too full and get sleepy in class,” answered my niece when I asked about her eating vegetable noodles almost every day of the week. One portion costs her VND15,000.

If you’d like to be a part of this cultural cuisine movement, check out 9 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1 or 157 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh. Prices for each dish cost between VND15,000 and VND55,000. Also look out for any street stalls with the sign “chay”.


Travel


MANY TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL

Bagan with a HolgaJulie Vola visits the ancient capital of Myanmar and escapes the crowds


I arrived in Yangon in mid-December when the weather was very good, dry and not too hot. I decided to be on my own for this Christmas holiday, just my

cameras and me. My travel itinerary was a bit different

from the usual tour of the country (Yangon, Bagan, Mandalay and Inle Lake). Most people rush through these places with two or three days in each location and long stints on night buses in between. As I only had 10 days, I didn’t want to rush, so to take the time to explore I split it between Yangon, the former capital, a vibrant, cosmopolitan city with amazing colonial architecture, and Bagan, the ancient capital with more than 2,000 temples and pagodas.

Shooting in Bagan has always been a dream of mine. Just like the iconic photos of trees growing on temples at Angkor Wat, I have always dreamed of taking photos of the balloons over Bagan. I quickly discovered that there so much more to this spiritual site than that.

My Holga, Bagan and MeAfter the overwhelming stimulation of my senses in Yangon, Bagan was an oasis of serenity — everything slowed down. I spent �ve days quietly writing and taking photos. Moving softly through my days I tried to be mindful of the small things that I didn’t capture with my camera, the melody of the chimes mixed with the


joyous chatter of the souvenir vendors, the sound of the wind in the high grass and the twitter of the birds, the smell of dry leaves and cardamom and all the spices from the Burmese paan or kwun-ya (betel leaves chewing mix).

On the �rst day I visited all the main temples that are popular with tourists. These are the biggest, the most impressive but also the easiest to reach. As it has pagodas, temples and stupas sprinkled throughout the countryside, Bagan offers a lot of hidden gems. So for the rest of my trip I avoided the packed places and instead went exploring

all the small dirt roads I could �nd riding an electric bicycle.

I prefer the photos from my Holga camera. Its simplicity better captures my mood in Bagan’s small poetic moments. I was fascinated by the light in this country, whether �ltered through the trees or windows and doors in the temples, or under the hard blue sky.

Chance EncountersI wandered along a sandy track, moving away from the main road into an area barely indicated on the map. I got lost in the crops


and found myself pushing my bicycle through the sand near a little shack where a family was resting in the hot hours of the day. The father came out and invited me to rest with him for a bit, offering me much-needed water. I showed him the map and he pointed to me where we were, then without speaking he showed me another point, a small monastery with no name.

Once I arrived there, the monastery was actually a ruin. I noticed a red robe drying in the sun next to a shack, but no-one was in sight. I walked around the ruins and suddenly from a corner a monk furtively

appeared. I followed him and when I reached him he only said hello. From then he did not speak again.

He led me to the top of the ruin to appreciate the view. He sat down while I took photos then I joined him. He saw my tattoo and I tried to explain its meditative meaning, he proceeded to show me some of his. We communicated through hand gestures and I understood he told me to come back at 6pm for the sunset, unfortunately it was my last day in Bagan and I had to take the bus to Yangon that afternoon to catch my �ight the following day.


DALAT

ANA MANDARA VILLAS $$$$Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063) 3555888 anamandara-resort.com

DALAT PALACE $$$$12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 5444 dalatpalace.vn

DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 7999dalatgreencityhotel.comLocated in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, fea-tures free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.

DALAT TRAIN VILLAVilla 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 381 6365dalattrainvilla.comLocated near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, co-lonial era, two-storey villa. In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major at-tractions in Dalat.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL $22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 2663

M M M

HANOI – INTERNATIONAL

CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL$$$36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Com-mune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688crowneplazawesthanoi.comThis premier five-star prop-erty lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories.

DAEWOO HOTEL360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555hanoi-daewoohotel.com

This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any oc-casion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a fa-vourite of the business trav-eller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property.

FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333fortuna.vnThis 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s fi-nancial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restau-rants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d ex-pect, there’s a fitness cen-tre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a sepa-rate spa and treatment facil-ity for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.

HOTEL DE L’OPERA29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 [email protected] just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial archi-tectural accents and theatri-cal interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lav-ish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two res-taurants, a bar and compli-mentary Wi-Fi.

HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944 9396hanoi.hgi.comWith 86 fully-equipped guestrooms and suites, this is the first Hilton Garden Inn property in Southeast Asia. Centrally located and a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with complimen-tary business and fitness centres making it perfect for the international business or leisure traveller.

HILTON HANOI OPERA1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500hanoi.hilton.comSituated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short stroll from the Old Quarter, this five-star hotel is a Hanoi landmark. With 269 fully-equipped rooms and suites, there’s plenty for the discerning business and lei-sure traveller to choose from.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888hanoi.intercontinental.comThis stunning property built over West Lake falls in be-tween a hotel and a resort. Beautiful views, great balco-ny areas, comfortable, top-end accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house res-taurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club.

JW MARRIOTT HANOI8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 5588jwmarriotthanoi.comFrom the expressive architec-ture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott servic-es inside, this Marriott hotel in Hanoi is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre.

MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688maydeville.comThe largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 rooms, a swimming pool, a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for any-one wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action.

MELIA HANOI44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343meliahanoi.comExcellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. State-of-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisti-cated service always make in-house guests satisfied.

MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800moevenpick-hanoi.comWith its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An all-day restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the ki-netic gym and wellness stu-dio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are avail-able for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 well-appointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking.

PULLMAN HANOI HOTEL$$$$40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 0688pullman-hanoi.comWith deluxe rooms and

suites, a contemporary lob-by, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter.

SHERATONK5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000sheraton.com/hanoiSurrounded by lush gar-dens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Ex-ecutive Club Lounge.

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919sofitel.comThe finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Ha-noi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this el-egant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable gues-trooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

M M M

HANOI – MID-RANGE

6 ON SIXTEEN16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiemsixonsixteen.comAnother boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contem-porary and fresh with handi-crafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, home-style Vi-etnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee.

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969goldensilkhotel.comLocated in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable

minibar. The Orient restau-rant, serves the finest in in-ternational and Vietnamese cuisine.

JOSEPH’S HOTEL$$5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3938 1048josephshotel.comLocated next to the ca-thedral, this popular well-appointed, airy and spa-cious boutique hotel mixes comfort with a nice ambi-ence and great Western or Vietnamese breakfasts. All the modern amenities at reasonable prices.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL$$$35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999hanovahotel.comA minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar.

MAY DE VILLE24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988Set in the old French Quar-ter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materi-als, this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms in-cluding four suites.

M M M

HANOI – BUDGET

HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372hanoibackpackershostel.comProbably the cheapest, Eu-ropean-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a cou-ple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

M M M

HCMC – INTERNATIONAL

CARAVELLE HOTEL $$$$19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999caravellehotel.comWinner of Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.

EQUATORIAL $$$242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777equatorial.com/hcm

Travel


This massive property boasts seven dining and entertain-ment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness cen-tre and spa. The Equatorial also has an on-site casino.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON $$$$$235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777hotelnikkosaigon.com.vnThe five-star hotel and ser-viced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON$$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999intercontinental.com/saigonIn the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

LE MÉRIDIEN SAIGON$$$$3C Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMCTel: (08) 6263 6688lemeridien.com/saigonMarking the brand’s debut in Vietnam, Le Méridien Sai-gon is the gathering place for curious and creative-minded travellers. Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City next to the Saigon River, the property is close to the me-tropolis's entertainment and commercial areas, making it an ideal base for exploring the local culture and com-munity. Experience this cos-mopolitan city in stimulating surroundings.

LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON $$$$2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333legendsaigon.comImmaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Ameri-cana and Pan-Asian cuisine.

NEW WORLD HOTEL $$$$76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.comFormer guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sen-sation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town.

PARK HYATT $$$$$2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.comFabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt. The Square One and Italian-themed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the land-scaped pool.

PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE$$$$$148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686pullmanhotels.comRecently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary prop-erty boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and high-tech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111riverside-apartments.comSituated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-min-ute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apart-ment per night for a one-bedroom facility.

RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE HOTEL SAIGON$$$$8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1,Tel: (08) 3823 1117renaissance-saigon.comThis distinct French architec-tural wonder offers compli-mentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a first-floor ball-room, and authentic Viet-namese cuisine at the River Restaurant.

SHERATON $$$$$88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheraton.com/saigonSheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live mu-sic venue on the same floor.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555sofitel.comThis 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

WINDSOR PLAZA $$$18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688windsorplazahotel.comThe full ensemble with its

own shopping hub (includ-ing a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.

M M M

HCMC – DELUXE

CONTINENTAL $$$132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9201continentalhotel.com.vnThis charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Sai-gon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.

NORFOLK HOTEL $$$117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368norfolkhotel.com.vnIntimate atmosphere and ex-cellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous land-marks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restau-rant, Corso.

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE$$$167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866novotel-saigon-centre.com Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa.

VILLA SONG SAIGON$$$197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6090villasong.comDeliberately located away from the city centre in Thao Dien, this riverside boutique villa-style hotel is a sanctu-ary of peace and calm — a rarity in Ho Chi Minh City. Beautiful, Indochine-influ-enced design, a great set-ting and good drinking and dining options make this a great, non-city centre choice.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL $$$144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888starcitysaigon.vnThe newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortably-designed outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.

M M M

HCMC - MID-RANGE

ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON $$133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914 kimdohotel.com

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2 $$$46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926 lanlanhotel.com.vn

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL$$$133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966alcovehotel.com.vn

M M M

HCMC – BUDGET

DUC VUONG HOTEL $195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992 ducvuonghotel.comFree Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This mod-ern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area.

DUNA HOTEL $167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699dunahotel.com

HONG HOA HOTEL$185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915honghoavn.com

SINH HUONG HOTEL $157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08)

3827 4648sinhhuonghotel.com.vn

M M M

HOI AN & DANANG

AN BANG BEACH RETREATAn Bang Beach, Hoi Ananbangbeachretreat.com

CUA DAI $544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231hotelcuadai-hoian.com/

DANANG BEACH RESORT$$$Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800danangbeachresort.com.vnFURAMA RESORT AND SPA $$$$Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 384 7888furamavietnam.com

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA$$$$Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234danang.regency.hyatt.com The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.

PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT$$$$Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, DanangTel: (0511) 395 8888pullman-danang.comLocated on the stunning white sands of Bac My An Beach, the stylish Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for the modern traveller. With an idyllic set-ting, this luxury property is perfect for a family holiday or romantic beach getaway. And with extensive function facilities, Pullman Danang also provides the a great lo-cation for your next incentive getaway or event.

MERCURE DANANG $$$Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777mercure-danang.comSet on the Han River, this well-appointed, Accor-managed property is one of the nicest hotels in Central Danang. Kitsch but contem-porary design and some phenomenal views over the city make up the mix.

Foreign-run,boutique hotelNext to the cathedral

Joseph’s Hotel

www.josephshotel.com5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV,

multi-shower, friendly service


Vung Tau is a go-ahead kind of place. In the first six years that I lived here, the city hosted the World

Youth Chess Championships, the International Women’s Beach Volleyball Championships, Mrs World, the International Kite-flying Championship, the World Food Festival, and the Russia-Vietnam Surf Championship.

But, as I said, that was in the �rst six years. Over the past few years there hasn’t been so much as a hint of a championship, a world tournament, or an international event of any kind on the horizon. Search the internet for ‘Vung Tau Events Calendar’ and you’ll come up with zilch, nada, nowt, nil. The slate, it seems, is clear. Why is that, I wonder? I mean, this is National Tourism Year, after all.

Has the oil money that funded the events dried up? Hardly. Admittedly, oil revenues have dropped over the past decade, but run out entirely? No. Despite low oil prices, Vietnam is still making a pretty penny exporting the black gold. Has a more conservative planning committee taken over the reins of the city’s administration? There have been no reports of any such move. So what is behind Vung Tau’s seeming disinterest in staging any more international events?

Flying High?Could it be negative public opinion? Quite possibly. People are wary of attending these events if the organisation is below par. And, yes, organisational foul-ups have dogged a number of the past events. Let me give you an example or two.

In Belly’s Bar and Restaurant I fell into conversation with an Australian woman who was a competitor in the week-long International Kite Flying Championship.

“You can’t complain about the organisation — there is none,” she said. “The other morning we’re on the beach at Long Hai, right, laying out our kite, getting the struts and strings straightened out, checking and double-checking, then one of the organisers announced there’d been a change of venue for that morning.

The event, they were told, was to be moved down the coast to Vung Tau. What’s the problem?

“Our kite’s �ve meters from wingtip to wingtip,” she explained. “Refolding it, repacking it, and arranging transport for it is a time-consuming task, let me tell you. And that hasn’t been the only time this sort of thing has happened.”

Such organizational shortcomings were a pain in the backside for the competitors, but remained largely unknown to the

Front BeachHome to an unusual array of statues

and �shing boats

Down the DogsIf you want some real competition (and some legal gambling thrown in for good

measure), hit the Dog Racing

NOTES FROM ANOTHER CITY

By Don Wills


Banh KhotWhen it comes to the city's best known

dish, Vung Tau does a great job. But food festivals? Forget it

general public. Not so for the much-heralded World Food Festival.

The days leading up to the festival were a whirlwind of activity. T-shirts and baseball caps bearing the festival logo were on sale everywhere, shops and hotels had been issued with booklets of food vouchers to sell to interested takers, Thuy Van Street on Back Beach had been blocked off for half a kilometre as stalls and mini-cafes were being set up. It was proudly announced that the Vung Tau World Food Festival had secured a place in the Guinness Book of Records as the world’s largest food festival. To all appearances, preparations were well thought-out, well oiled, and well under way.

Food fastThen came opening day. Thousands of eager food fans streamed onto the venue. The variety of food outlets was mindboggling. Middle-Eastern food, Japanese food, Italian food, French, Greek, German, Korean, Indian, Thai, Chinese, Indonesian food… you name it, it was there for the taking.

After the salivating visitors had wandered the length of the street, they made their decisions and spent their vouchers on plates of whichever exotic

taste treat had taken their fancy. All went well for the �rst hour, then, one-by-one, the outlets ran out of food. The crowd had now swollen to hundreds of thousands, but most of them returned home still clutching their unspent vouchers, and still hungry.

The second day was a repetition of the �rst, only this time the food supply lasted just half an hour. And so it was for the rest of the week, resulting in a multitude of frustrated, bitterly dissatis�ed customers.

The event quickly became known as ‘The food festival minus the food’. I’ll bet that never made it into the Guinness Book of Records.

What of the future? Will the city see any more international events, or will we no longer thrill to the sounds of “Ladeez and gennelmen… all the way from sunny Vung Tau Vietnam, we proudly present [drum roll] the one, the only, international extravaganza of the year, the…?”

Only time will tell.

ENTRY 2: Festival Time in Vung Tau

“Search the internet for ‘Vung Tau Events Calendar’ and you’ll come up with zilch, nada, nowt, nil. The slate, it seems, is clear. Why is

that, I wonder? I mean, this is National Tourism Year, after all”


THE NAM HAI $$$$Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Vil-lage, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000ghmhotels.com Includes three massive swimming pools, a gour-met restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre–pro-grammed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.

M M M

HUE & LANG CO

ANGSANA LANG CO$$$$Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Com-mune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800angsana.com/en/lang_coLocated on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shim-mering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encom-passes the resort’s contem-porary buildings and chic interiors.

BANYAN TREE LANG CO$$$$Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Com-mune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888banyantree.com/en/lang_coBuilt on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods.

LA RESIDENCE $$$$5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475la–residence–hue.com

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL$66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736hoangphuonghotel.com

M M M

NHA TRANG

EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA $$$$Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222sixsenses.com/evason-re-sorts/ana-mandara/desti-nation2.6 hectares of private beach-side gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384junglebeachvietnam.comOn a secluded promon-tory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG$$$$Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666mianhatrang.com

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG$$$50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900novotel-nhatrang.comThis four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a ter-race and sea view. Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 del-egates.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY$$$$Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222sixsenses.com/resorts/ninh-van-bay/destination

The upmarket Tatler maga-zine voted top hotel of 2006. The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA$$$$26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000sheraton.com/nhatrang

M M M

PHAN THIET & MUI NE

NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB & BARHwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068) 627 2727ninhchubay.comEnjoy the private beach with excellent facilities and have a massage. Evenings are sub-lime at this beach club, soon to become a fully fledged resort. Grilled seafood, Eu-ropean sausages, sangria, draught beer, and speciality-infused vodka all make this one of a kind destination.

BLUE OCEAN RESORT $$$$54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322blueoceanresort.com.vnlife-resorts.com

COCO BEACH $$$$58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111cocobeach.netWith charming wooden bun-galows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach con-tinues to be run by those who opened it in 1995.

JOE’S GARDEN RESORT$$86 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7177

joescafemuine.comA leafy, seafront bungalow resort and café with nightly live music all in one. Remi-niscent of the type of places you’d find on the Thai is-lands, an international and Asian food menu together with a cheap happy hour on beer make up the relax-ing mix.

MIA RESORT MUI NE $$$$24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440miamuine.com

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RE-SORT AND SPA$$$$Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000victoriahotels.asiaAnother beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.

M M M

PHONG NHA

EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR$Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 [email protected] hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night.

HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY$$Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182phong-nha-homestay.com

PHONG NHA FARMSTAY$$Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367

5135phong-nha-cave.comThe first western-run farm-stay in Phong Nha, this well-appointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restau-rant area, a swimming pool out back and views over-looking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 mil-lion a night.

M M M

PHU QUOC

BEACH CLUB RESORT $$Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998beachclubvietnam.comA quaint and popular is-land guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and in-cludes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season.

MANGO BAY $$Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207 mangobayphuquoc.comAn eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar.

SALINDA RESORT PHU QUOC ISLAND$$$$Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Commune, Phu Quoc, Kien GiangTel: (08) 3929 3097Hotline 0907 99 55 02salindaresort.comSet on the sea and only 4km away from Phu Quoc Inter-national Airport, Salinda is inspired by an interplay of rustic local heritage with contemporary design. The

Travel P

HO

TO

BY N

ICK

RO

SS


property has 121 rooms and villas with private balconies, and provides a luxury expe-rience that embodies the understated beauty and en-chanting spirit of the pearl of Asia.

M M M

SAPA

CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL$$Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871946catcathotel.comThe best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces.

TOPAS ECOLODGE$$$Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao CaiTel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)topasecolodge.comWith its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley, Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to expe-rience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Viet-namese mountains — the landscape, the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Guests stay in private bungalows with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant.

M M M

VUNG TAU & HO TRAM

BINH AN VILLAGE $$$$1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553binhanvillage.com

CON DAO RESORT $$Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939condaoresort.vn

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA$$$$Tel: (064) 378 1525hotramresort.comThis attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bun-

galows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools.

HO TRAM SANCTUARY $$$$Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631sanctuary.com.vnThe spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach. Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

REX HOTEL $$1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135rexhotelvungtau.com

SIX SENSES CON DAO$$$$Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222sixsenses.com/sixsens-escondao

THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIPPhuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888thegrandhotramstrip.comThe Grand-Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and in-cludes a 541-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meet-ing space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activi-ties. Is located next to the Greg Norman-designed golf course, The Bluffs, one of the best golf courses in Vietnam.

M M M

TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA)94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702buffalotours.com.vnA boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnam-ese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam. BTA customizes leisure and

corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.

EXO TRAVEL66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 2150exotravel.comA one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and In-tercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.

HANDSPAN TRAVEL78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3926 2828handspan.comEstablished in 1997, Hand-span provides customers with safe, high quality, di-verse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a fo-cus on off-the-beaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also pro-vides to excursions to more well-worn destinations.

HG TRAVEL47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844hgtravel.comTravel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — kenya-airways.com), American Airlines (aa.com) and Turkish Airlines (thy.com).

INTREPID TRAVEL VIET-NAM57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308intrepidtravel.com/viet-namsalesIntrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With ex-pert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses

on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture.

TRAVEL SENSE ASIASuite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguy-en Truong To, Ba Dinh, HanoiTel: (04) 3715 [email protected] homegrown travel agen-cy providing small group journeys and tailor-made holidays to Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and Thailand. Voted in Trip Advi-sor’s Top 10 of best tours in Hanoi since 2010.

M M M

TRAVEL SERVICES — HCMC

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702; 157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170buffalotours.comThis premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips. From corporate travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam.

EXO TRAVEL41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19exotravel.comA reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you per-sonalized tours across the region, many including in-sights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitar-ian initiatives.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744flightravelco.comFlight travel services, includ-ing global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, fam-ily and individual travelers.

TERRAVERDE12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754terraverdetravel.comIf you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well.

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585vietnamvespaadventure.comVespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English-speaking tour guides lead the way.

M M M

TRAVEL SERVICES — ELSEWHERE

BACK OF THE BIKE TOURSTel: (08) 6298 5659backofthebiketours.comOffer motorbike tours com-bined with the finest street food to give customers a truly immersive Vietnamese experience.

[email protected] travel in Southeast Asia. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours. Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary.

TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436tutrangtravel-mekongfeel-ing.vnWant to set up non-standard tours in the Mekong with local guides who’ve got ex-tensive local knowledge? This might be the place to contact.


Still going strong, Matt and Nemo ride on to India’s Sikkim.

PART 12: THE ONE MORE SISTER THE OTHERS FORGOT THE MOTORBIKE DIARIES

DAY 210DarjeelingFirst time in months, mass tourism! And it’s an odd feeling. A comfort of sorts with plenty of comfort foods, like the “authentic”, and I’ll admit, quite delicious, after months of rice and dhal, Tibetan Burger. More than that, a re�ective, nostalgic, realization that perhaps a certain chapter of this journey is already behind me… and I almost want to turn back. But such is life… it only ever moves in one direction.

DAY 214The Unlikely BabyEurope, meet Tibet. Tibet, meet Europe.

Now go mate. Your baby shall be named Gangtok. And he’ll settle in this odd corner of India, just for kicks.

No, really. This place is great. Clean, quiet, organized, culturally distinct. And they even stamped my passport at the border, and, yup, such silly things do make me smile.

I’m staying with a wonderful Tibetan family. And if I could only have one wish, it’d be to �nally, after two continually cloudy months in the Himalayas, get to at least once see the snowy peaks.

DAY 220Tsango LakeThe one annoyance in Sikkim is that aside

from entry permits, I need permits within permits within permits to really access anywhere worthwhile. And requests for those are widely refused.

But I’ve found that Indians tend to make a huge fuss and dramatically over-exaggerate every problem, so they’ll spend hours thinking of every reason why something is not possible, then they’ll suggest grand, completely unfeasible solutions. Then, once they �nally get tired, something magical happens; within 30 seconds they’ll solve whatever the ‘problem’ was, and it takes them no effort at all.

So, a bit of persistence on my end, and I manage to receive the permit to visit this


“absolutely inaccessible” Tsango Lake near India’s supposedly only open border with Tibet.

Nice ride, nice lake, yaks with colourful horn-warmers roaming around. A bit rainy, but peaceful.

DAY 222Indian “Pooja” in North SikkimThere’s a large parking garage outside my guesthouse window. Inside, there’s a brightly lit shrine of a feminine-looking god with a big moustache. The shrine is surrounded by a circle of cars decorated with ribbons and balloons. Plenty of other kitsch and �ashing lights all around. It’s a tea party for cars! Or, in more proper terms,

the holiday for the Hindu god of Machines (I forget the name). I bet local cars wait all year long for this day.

DAY 224Decisions…I’m a day’s drive away from Nepal, very broke and it’s decision time. But I’m not quite yet ready to end this journey of mine… I’m not yet ready inside. And on the outside, apart from this north-east “other India”, I also long for the “India India”; the Bollywood, the bright colours.

I genuinely don’t know how I’ll pull it off but it feels I already know my answer. I’m heading to Kashmir, at the far other end, maybe 3,000km away, before looping

back to Nepal. And I’d better hurry, only a month left on the visa. Wasn’t that thing valid for six months? When did it pass?

DAY 228Finally!Pelling, West Sikkim. My last day here and I urgently wake up way earlier than I usually do. And ahead of me, clear against blue sky, Mt. Kanchenjunga and the Himalayan snowy peaks. Absolutely breathtaking. And I know that all of it up to now, the good and the challenging, was all leading exactly to here.

For more on Matt’s �lms and travels, check out the Etherium Sky Production Blog at EtheriumSky.com/ProdBlog


HanoiDay Tripper: Hanoi / Book Buff / The Alchemist / Bar Stool / The Therapist / Student Eye / Coffee Cup /

Top Eats 1 / Top Eats 2 / Medical Buff

Photo by Julie VolaPhoto by Julie VolaPhoto by Julie Vola

HanoiEssentials

ALTERNATIVE HEALTH

A-ROAMING BODYWORKERgkaren@a-roamingbody-worker.coma-roamingbodyworker.comProvides various holistic healing modalities. Services include craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prena-tal massage, healing stones massage, as well as energy healing including Reiki and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops are also available.

HANOI HOLISTIC HEALTH GUIDEissuu.com/hanoiholistiche-althA guide to various holistic health practitioners in Hanoi. Only available online, but a great information source.

M M M

BOOKSHOPS

BOOKWORMBOOK SHOP44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322Bookworm has been the cor-nerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and second-hand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a sec-ond shop in Tay Ho

LIBRAIRIE FRANÇAISE DE HANOIFRENCH BOOKSHOP23/67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3726 4896

TRANG TIEN BOOKSTOREVIETNAMESE & ENGLISH BOOKS44 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2151

XUNHASABAENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 4068

M M M

BUSINESS GROUPS

AMCHAM4th Floor, InterContinental Hanoi,1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 2790amchamhanoi.com

AUSCHAM4th Floor, 100 Lo Duc, Hai Ba TrungTel: 0909 710994auschamvn.org

AIRLINES

AIR ASIAairasia.com

AIR FRANCEairfrance.com.vn

CATHAY PACIFICcathaypaci�c.com/vn

CHINA AIRLINESchina-airlines.com

JAPAN AIRLINESvn.jal.com

JETSTAR PACIFICjetstar.com/vn/en

KOREAN AIRkoreanair.com

LAO AIRLINESlaoairlines.com

MALAYSIA AIRLINES

malaysiaairlines.com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES

singaporeair.com

THAI AIRWAYSthaiairways.com.vn

TIGER AIRWAYStigerair.com

VIETJETAIRvietjetair.com

VIETNAM AIRLINES

vietnamairlines.com

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM (BBGV)193B Ba Trieu, Hai Ba TrungTel: (04) 6674 0945bbgv.orgThe chamber of commerce for all things relating to the UK and British-born expats living in the capital. Puts on monthly networking events, gala dinners, fundraising events and much more.

CCIFVSofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 ccifv.org

EUROCHAMG/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228eurochamvn.org

ICHAMSofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229icham.org

SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAMBusiness Center Fortuna Ho-tel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinhsbav-hanoi.org

M M M

CINEMAS

CINEMATHEQUEARTS CINEMA22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The manage-ment has an eclectic taste and shows films and opera from all over the world. Call to arrange membership.

M M M

CLUBS & SOCIETIES

AMERICAN CLUBEVENT SPACE21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850

GOETHE INSTITUTGERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251goethe.de/hanoi

HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS)THEATRE GROUPhitshanoi.com

HANOI CLUBCOUNTRY CLUB76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115thehanoiclub.com

HANOI OISNETBALL [email protected]

L’ESPACE FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164vphanoi-lespace.com

M M M

CLOTHING

BOO SKATESHOPSKATESHOP84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147booskateshop.com

CONTRABAND CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Gar-ments are made from versa-tile fabrics that are comfort-able to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusiv-ity.

GEORGE’S FASHION BOU-TIQUECONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to aver-age to the generous figure. Alterations and a made-to-measure service are avail-able at no extra cost.

L’ATELIERWOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758ateliervietnam.comStocks women’s wear, leath-er bags, shoes and handi-crafts. This chic boutique of-fers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.

METISEKOECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiemmetiseko.comA lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital has seen them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The prod-ucts — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organ-ic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

THINGS OF SUBSTANCEAUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly re-tailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also car-ries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

THREE TREESJEWELLERY15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725

M M M

COOKING CLASSES

HANOI COOKING CENTRECOOKING CENTRE44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088hanoicookingcentre.comHanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culi-nary tours.

HIDDEN HANOICOOKING CENTRE147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 254045hiddenhanoi.com.vnA wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowl-edgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

M M M

CRAFTS & FURNITURE

BETTERWORLDGLOBAL HANDICRAFTS8 Xuan Dieu, Tay HoFair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books, DVDs and more.

MEKONG QUILTSHANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831; 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831Mekong-quilts.orgCommunity development non-profit quilt shop featur-ing handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in


HanoiEssentials

several locations around the region, the shop em-ploys women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

CYCLING

DON’S TAY HO BICYCLE RENTALS16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719Dons-bistro.com

GREEN BIKECANNONDALE & JETT STOCKIST15 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh

IBIKESALES34 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho; 53 Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem

QUAN’S RENTALSBICYCLE / MOTORBIKE RENTALS70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0904 244941

THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE)RENTALS & SALES29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3156thbc.vn

DENTAL CARE

AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINICDENTAL CLINIC3 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0906 200434 australiandentalclinic.com

PEACE DENTAL CLINICDENTAL CLINIC2nd floor, 51A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2286peacedentalclinic.wordpress.com

SERENITY INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINICDENTAL CLINIC19 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0989 067888serenitydentalclinic.com

WESTCOAST INTERNA-TIONAL DENTAL CLINICDENTAL CLINIC2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555westcoastinternational.comThe Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides the highest quality technolo-gy, comfort and after-service care to patients.

GALLERIES

ART VIETNAM GALLERYGALLERY & EXHIBITION SPACE24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,

SHOPPING MALLS

GARDEN SHOPPING

CENTERThe Manor,

Me Tri Street, My Dinh, Tu LiemTel: (04) 3787 5500

INDOCHINA PLAZA

241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay, Hanoi, Tel: 1900 555596

LOTTE CENTER54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh,

Tel: (04) 3333 6016lottecenter.com.vn

PARKSONViet Tower Plaza,

198 Tay Son, Dong Da Tel: (04) 3537 8666parkson.com.vn

PICO MALL229 Tay Son, Dong Da,

Tel: (04) 6682 0400

SYRENA SHOPPING

CENTER51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,

Tel: (04) 3719 7214

TRANG TIEN PLAZA

cnr. Hang Bai and Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem,

Hanoitrangtienplaza.vn

VINCOM CITY TOWERS

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974

9999

VINCOM ROYAL CITY

72A Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: (04)

3974 3550

Tel: (04) 3928 5190artvietnamgallery.comEstablished in 2002, this American-run gallery has championed Vietnamese contemporary art for more than two decades. Holds regular exhibitions and art-ist talks.

MANZIGALLERY & BAR / CAFE14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397facebook.com/manzihanoi Founded in 2012, this inde-pendent contemporary art centre holds regular exhibi-tions, workshops and a wide range of art events. Manzi promotes emerging artists while presenting estab-lished artists from Vietnam. The space also sells works by leading contemporary Vietnamese artists at afford-able prices.

NHA SAN COLLECTIVEGALLERY & ARTS PROJECTS24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0985 870316nhasanstudio.orgThe first experimental art space in Hanoi, the non-prof-it, artist-led space has given contemporary Vietnamese artists the chance to nurture their talent and experiment. Holds regular exhibitions and artist residences.

VIETNAM ARTS MUSEUMNATIONAL ARTS MUSEUM66 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 2131vnfam.vnMaintains and promotes the treasures of Vietnamese cultural and artistic herit-age, allowing visitors to ap-preciate and understand the entire history of Vietnamese fine arts.

WORK ROOM FOURARTS STUDIO & GALLERYPackexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho workroomfour.comA place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeav-ours across Hanoi. A col-lective that promotes col-laboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, art-ist studios, courses, contacts and events.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR

ANNAM GOURMETGROCERIES / DELIFirst Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487

DA LOCWINE RETAILER96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le

Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789Daloc.vn

HANOI GOURMETDELI / WINE SHOP6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009Hanoigourmet.com

KITCHEN ARTKITCHENWARE38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770 kitchenart.vn

L'S PLACEGROCERY SHOP3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911

NATURALLY VIETNAMORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130naturallyvietnam.com

RED APRONWINE RETAILER10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226; 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337

THE OASISITALIAN DELI24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196

WESTERN CANNED FOODSGROCERY STORE17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854

VEGGIE’SGROCERIES, FRUIT & VEG99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 4630

THE WAREHOUSEWINE RETAILER59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666; 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3701warehouse-asia.com

M M M

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

DINH HAIR SALONHAIR SALON2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

HAIR STREAMUNISEX HAIR & NAIL SALON162A Hoang Hoa Tham, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3847 3366

JUST.IN.MWOMEN’S HAIRDRESSER48A Ly Thuong Kiet , Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3939 3907

LAN SALONTOP-END SALONSofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3266 8190

HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS

AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC (ACC)CHIROPRACTORS & PHYSIOTHERA-PISTS44 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (4) 3265 6888acc.vn/enACC provides effective chi-ropractic, physiotherapy and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems.

BUMRUNGRAD INTERNATIONAL HOSPITALHANOI OFFICE OF BANGKOK HOSPITAL136G Tran Vu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3717bumrungrad.vn

JAPAN INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL (JIEH)INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL32 Pho Duc Chinh, Ba Dinh, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3715 3666jieh.vnJIEH is a 100% Japanese-invested eye hospital. Using the latest technology and built according to Japanese standards, the facility is the first in Vietnam to use Mel 90 (Carl Zeiss - Germany), and is one of first three eye hospitals in the country using Visumax (Carl Zeiss - Germany) for refractive surgery. Top-end customer service and a friendly, con-temporary environment add to the mix.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICEMEDICAL298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748 vietnammedicalpractice.comOn the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and inter-national doctors, but they are used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service.

FRENCH HOSPITALINTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100hfh.com.vn

HONG NGOC HOSPITALPRIVATE GENERAL HOSPITAL55 Yen Ninh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3927 5568; Keangnam Office Tower, Khu B1 Pham Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 7305 8880hongngochospital.vn


INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINICMEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666Internationalsos.comWell-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, pae-diatrics and specialist care.

VIETNAM-KOREA FRIEND-SHIP CLINICKOREAN CLINIC & HOSPITAL12 Chu Van An, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 7231

VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITALINTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 3556vinmec.com

M M M

INSURANCE

IF CONSULTINGCCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Pla-za, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370insuranceinasia.com

LIBERTY INSURANCE16th Floor, Hoa Binh Inter-national Towers, 106 Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau GiayTel: (04) 3755 7111libertyinsurance.com.vn

REGENCY INTERNATIONAL INSURANCE5th Floor, Press Club, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan KiemTel: 0966 857 488

M M M

INTERNATIONALSCHOOLS

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, HANOIHoa Lan Road, Vinhomes Riverside, Long Bien, Tel: (04) 3946 0435bishanoi.comA selective, independent, co-educational day school. Provides a British-style education following the National Curriculum for Eng-land, with students taking IGCSE and A Level. Pending authorization, will offer the IB programme from 2016 onwards.

CONCORDIA INTERNA-TIONAL SCHOOL HANOICMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878concordiahanoi.orgA non-profit entity, Concor-dia has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier

of the educational system. All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3832 8140hisvietnam.comWith schooling available for students studying at elementary through to sec-ondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education op-tions in the capital. Offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183isvietnam.orgA not-for-profit, pre-kinder-garten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Ha-noi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small.

KINDERWORLD INTERNA-TIONAL KINDERGARTENUnit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3743 0306; 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel (04) 3934 7243; C5 – C11, 1st floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Tel (04) 3764 0209kinderworld.netClasses are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher accord-ing to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years.

QSI INTERNATIONALSCHOOL OF HANOI#17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418 hanoi.qsi.orgQSI International School of Hanoi is next in a long line of ‘quality schools’ estab-lished by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing pre-school and lower elementary age students.

SINGAPORE INTERNATION-AL SCHOOL2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel (04) 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3758 2664; Road 2,

Gamuda Gardens, Km 4.4 Phap Van, Hoang Mai, Tel (04) 6666 1818kinderworld.net/sisProvides an international education for students from primary up to university lev-el. A strong curriculum pro-vides core subjects from the Singaporean and Vietnamese curricula, as well as special-ist programmes from Brit-ain, America and Canada, all taught by qualified teachers.

UNITED NATIONS INTER-NATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS)G9 Ciputra, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551unishanoi.orgEstablished in 1988, 1,050 students from 60 na-tionalities follow the IB programme from aged 3 through to aged 18. A not-for-profit entity, UNIS aims for its students to emerge as responsible stewards of our global society and natural environment.

M M M

MOTORBIKE RENTAL & REPAIRS

ANH DUNGMOTORBIKE RENTALS37 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 066096

MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTALMOTORBIKE RENTALS106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 094464

PHUNG MOTORBIKEMOTORBIKE RENTALS13 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1105

VIP BIKES SOCIALENTERPRISERENTALS & REPAIRS17 Ve Ho, Xuan La, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 931390Trains disadvantaged youth to be fully qualified, Aus-tralian-certified motorbike mechanics. Does sales, res-toration, repairs and rentals.

M M MPROPERTY RENTALS

FAIR REAL ESTATERENTALS6 Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6332fair-realestate.com

GIA LONG HOUSINGRENTALSR714, Blg CT13B Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3743 0589gialonghousing.com

HANOI RENTINGRENTALSNo. 809, Ct13b building, Lac Long Quan, Tay HoTel: (04) 6294 4828hanoirenting.com

LANLINH PROPERTYRENTALS38 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: Tel: 0933 534999houseinhanoi.com

VIETLONG HOUSINGRENTALS21 Alley 1/22 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5203vietlonghousing.com

M M MRELOCATION AGENTS

ALLIED PICKFORDSRoom 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511vn.alliedpickfords.comThe largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Has a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — both inside and outside of Vietnam.


TU TRAM

DAY TRIPPER: HANOI

Jesse Meadows goes in search of a mountain 20km south of Hanoi and gets caught up in a parade

My favourite kind of travel partner is one that isn’t afraid of a little uncertainty. When I told my housemate Kate that we would

be looking for a mountain called Tu Tram about 20km south of Hanoi on Highway 6, with little directions otherwise, she jumped for her coat. I assumed we would know it when we saw it — it’s a mountain, after all.

After sharing a busy highway with a bunch of dusty trucks for what seemed like more than 20km, we pulled over to ask for directions. It turns out that it’s referred to as Chua Tram, and you have to turn off the highway into the little commune of Phung

Chau to reach it. At the base of the mountain, half-�nished stone sculptures begin to �ll the roadside, surrounded by formless stone blocks, ready for carving. Past these, there is a large pagoda complex where you can park your bike (though the vendors along the road outside the pagoda will charge you much less).

Set in StoneThe complex is centred on a deceptively small cave mouth; the actual cavern is much bigger than the entrance would suggest. The main room is impressively tall. Light �lters in through jagged cracks in the ceiling,

and the comforting scent of incense wafts from the many altars dotted about. There are even little holes in the darkest of the cavern’s fringes, which you can crawl into to explore eerie, pitch-black corridors and abandoned rooms made of stone (we should have known this from all the vendors selling �ashlights next to the incense).

We ascended from the depths and decided to keep climbing. There is a well-marked dirt path off the road, and after an easy climb, we were rewarded by an elevated valley of rock and grass surrounded by several peaks. Many more paths worn down by Vietnamese teenagers and grazing cows traverse the


Jesse Meadows Jesse Meadows Jesse Meadows goes in search of a mountain 20km south of goes in search of a mountain 20km south of goes in search of a mountain 20km south of Hanoi and gets caught up in a paradeHanoi and gets caught up in a paradeHanoi and gets caught up in a parade



Getting ThereTake Tay Son south out of Hanoi (this will turn into AH13 or QL6, both the same road). After you pass under a large steel structure with a scrolling marquee, TL80 will be to your right. Take that until you can’t go any farther, and turn right towards the mountain, then right again when the road forks. The hiking trail and pagodas will be to your left.

landscape, and it’s easy to scramble up the rocks for a wide-open view of the village below. On our way back down, we passed a group setting up a tent and building a camp�re; they invited us to spend the night on the mountain with them, but we reluctantly declined. We’d gotten a tip from the only other foreigners we’d seen all day about a festival up the road, and wanted to check it out.

Carnival TimeWe drove along the main road until we saw an alley marked by a red banner. Kids ran by with balloons yelling hello, teenagers pointed

and laughed, surprised to see us, parents holding babies waved happily. The crowd grew and grew the farther we went, until the stone-and-brick alleyway opened up onto a lake and a street carnival in full swing.

Just 20km south of Hanoi’s chaos, this quaint town full of friendly faces refreshed our spirits. As if this surprise wasn’t enough, we found ourselves in the middle of a vibrant parade on our way out of the village. Standing in the middle of the street, surrounded by townspeople in dragon costumes and bright traditional dress, with the sound of drumbeats �lling our ears, these are the moments you can’t plan; the

beautiful things you stumble into when you give up your plans to chance.


MAN’S BEST FRIEND BOOK BUFF

BY HOANG VAN TRUONG

This month Bookworm’s Truong looks at books that focus on dogs

A New Zealand veteran from the American war returning to Vietnam on a regular stint to assist a bomb clearance NGO

said that he was astounded with the explosion in designer dogs in Hanoi. Gone are the days when you only saw chained up, chunky meat dog breeds. An occasional chihuahua would pop out of doorways and yap at your heels and that was about it.

The veteran is a lover of spirited dogs, so for his grandkids’ �rst books he always goes for the series about the terrier Hairy Maclary, also a proud New Zealander. Hairy reigns benignly over a tribe of suburban pooches that follow him on adventures all over town. Such frolicking wouldn’t be possible in Hanoi due to the cunning dog thieves who snatch up any that stray.

In the �rst book Hairy Maclary from Donaldson’s Dairy by Linley Dodd we meet Hercules Morse as big as a horse, Bottomly Pots covered in spots, Muf�n McLay like a bundle of hay, Bitzer Maloney all skinny and bony and Schnitzel von Krumm with a very low tum.

For the uninitiated there’s a Great Dane, a Dalmatian, an Old English sheepdog, a mongrel, a dachshund, and Hairy, an Affenpinscher.

Worldwide sales of over 5 million books about Hairy and his friends is all to do with the rhyming text and very funny artwork.

Our veteran also loves another New Zealand dog, known affectionately as Dog. Dog, a border collie, is the star of Footrot Flats by Murray Ball. Dog is a cynical philosopher and the comic books about him and Wal on their farm sold millions throughout Australasia and they’re still nostalgically collected even though Ball stopped the series in 1994 when his own Dog died.

Deep Southern PointersOur veteran has been an English Pointer owner ever since he was a young child and he saw the 1940 movie The Biscuit Eater set in rural southern Alabama, way before desegregation wagged its tail and became a human rights issue. He recalled how the death of the dog made him cry his eyes out for the grief of the white kid Lonnie and Text, his African-American friend.

The plot, from the James Street short story, is about how they’d trained a biscuit eater — the local name for a failure — until it became a brilliant bird dog. They bribed it with a daily dose of stolen, fresh hen’s eggs, a taste that proved its eventual, tear-stained demise. They called the dog Promise and entered it in the state championships alongside the dog their fathers trained for a wealthy Yankee. They heard a mistaken rumour that their dads would lose their jobs if Promise won, so at the crucial point in the competition when Promise was ahead on points they made him give up by taunting him as a despised biscuit eater.

The dog’s humiliation, the boys’ guilt and the dog’s death the same night when it ate poisoned eggs given to it by a jealous neighbour, was enough to make dog lovers weep buckets.

The short story by James Street was originally published in The Saturday Evening Post in May 1939 and then published as a book — originals of which sell for up to US$500. But our veteran is certainly not going to sell his.

Welsh WolfhoundEver since a poetry-loving teacher read him the ballad Beth Gelert, he’s also had a thing about wolfhounds. Gelert lived in 13th century Wales and his grave can still be seen in the village of Beddgelert. He was the

faithful dog of the Prince of northern Wales, Llywelyn. One day Gelert refused to go hunting with the prince. When the hunters returned home they found Gelert covered in blood and Llywelyn’s infant son nowhere to be seen. It is inferred that Gelert has killed and eaten the kid and he is immediately slaughtered. As Gelert’s last breath sighs out the infant son is heard gurgling and they �nd him beside the body of a wolf that Gelert has fought when it came for the boy. The prince is morti�ed, never smiles again and gives Gelert a hero’s funeral.

The tale can be found in the anthology Poems of Places, a collection edited by Longfellow that contains over 4 000 poems from every corner of the globe. Beth Gelert by William Spencer is in the volume devoted to England.

Best of the RestEvery dog a�cionado has their favourite canine tale and since we’ve been putting this article together we’ve made a list of titles that our readers love. At the top of the heap come Red Dog (a red kelpie) by de Bernieres and Travels With Charley (standard poodle) by Steinbeck.

We’d love to read a tale about a Vietnamese dog that is snatched by dog thieves and destined for a restaurant table but escapes and after lots of adventures avoiding throat slitters, �nds a loving owner.

Truong is an avid reader and runs Bookworm (44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi). For more information on go to bookwormhanoi.com

HanoiEssentials

JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334jvkasia.comFocused primarily on the in-ternational and local move-ment of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

AGS FOUR WINDS41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8762agsfourwinds.comA worldwide leader in inter-national removals and re-locations, with 130 offices globally. Have the capacity to move property to and from any location.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICESSuite 821, Vietnam Trade Ho-tel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805santaferelo.comWith over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers lo-cal and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration servic-es and records management.

SUPER-MARKETS

BIG C222 Tran Duy Hung,

Cau Giay; Garden Shopping

Centre, The Manor, My Dinh, Tu Liem

bigc.vn

CITIMARTGround Floor,

Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3934 2999

FIVIMART27A Ly Thai To,

Hoan Kiem

INTIMEX22-23 Le Thai To,

Hoan Kiem

METRO THANG LONG

Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3755 1617

metro.com.vn

M M M

SPORTS, FITNESS & YOGA

ELITE FITNESSTOP-END HEALTH CENTRE51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6281elitefitness.com.vnThe luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spa-cious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range.

N SHAPE FITNESSMID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495nshapefitness.vn

STUDIO FIVE YOGA & WELLNESS5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515studio5.vn

VIETCLIMBCLIMBING CENTRE40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185vietclimb.vnAlthough a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned,

200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art cours-es. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clin-ics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.

ZENITH YOGA & CAFÉYOGA & NUTRITION247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 62 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem; Tel: 0904 356 561zenithyogavietnam.comThe oldest and most pro-fessional Yoga Studio in Hanoi, Zenith offers a vast variety of classes and levels in Iyengar, Hatha, Vinyasa, Ashtanga and Pilates while also offering Restorative, Prenatal & Postnatal Yoga, Meditation sessions, and Kundalini classes. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, clothes and yoga props, as well as a café serving up the homemade vegetarian meals, cakes and coffee.

M M M

SPORTSWEAR & EQUIPMENT

ADIDAS FOOTBALLFOOTBALL & SPORTS19 Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)

6273 3095

BOO SKATESHOPSKATING EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147bosua.vn

HANOI SPORTS SHOP146, Mai Dich, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 2218 5757hanoisport.vn

SCORE-TECH44, Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246score-tech.net Apparel company offer-ing personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelo-na. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.

UMOVE TRAVEL AND OUTDOORSTRAVEL EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING13 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3771 3305umove.com.vn

PH

OT

O B

Y J

ES

SE

ME

AD

OW

S


I AM…

THE ALCHEMISTBY KAREN GAY

When I look in the mirror I see the outward expression of who I am, the person I think everyone else sees. At the

same time, I know there is more to me than the mirror can reflect. The following excerpt from Sylvia Plath’s poem Mirror expresses one’s desire to know their true self. “Now I am a lake. A woman bends over me. Searching my reaches for what she really is.”

While there is plenty of fodder for a philosophical discussion of the ‘self’, for the moment I will focus on the physical composition of the human body, our cells, our DNA. As technology advances we are gaining a more sophisticated understanding of the human body.

OutnumberedMolecular biologists inform us that there are 10 times more microbial cells on and in our bodies than there are human cells, this means we are 90 percent microbial and 10 percent human. Thank goodness the larger human cells give us our form, however in terms of numbers, they are sparse. Not only are we outnumbered by our bacteria, our interrelationship is such that we could not survive without them.

When it comes to our DNA, only 3%

of it is required to keep an adult body functioning. The other 97% is said to be an incredible database of memories.

Non-Physical PhenomenaResearchers are also looking beyond the physical and into the metaphysical realms. From the scienti�c discovery of a continued state of consciousness after death to the study of the cerebral spinal �uid as the conveyor of the “I Am” source energy in our physical bodies, today’s researchers are bridging the gap between science and spirituality.

Nikola Tesla is quoted as saying, “The day science begins to study non-physical phenomena it will make more progress in one decade than in all the previous centuries of its existence.” We are living in this time of exponential growth and discovery.

Self and SelflessnessAs clinical knowledge doubles every 18 months we are learning more and more about the make up of the human body. The revelations are providing a broader platform from which to view our true essence. American Buddhist writer and academic, Robert Thurman states, “The human opportunity and the human job is

to come to an understanding of the self, even if you call that understanding the realization of sel�essness.”

The following is a recent interaction I had during a session with one of my clients.

Client: What was it you started the session with?Me: Craniosacral therapy.Client: It felt like I left my body a few times.

My client evidently experienced astral travel, a state where one can expand their level of consciousness by travelling outside the physical body. Although it was not the goal to have my client leave her body, these occurrences as well as near-death experiences provide evidence that we exist in some form or another without our physical ‘container’.

Perhaps it is as Dr. Mauro Zappaterra believes, “The ‘I Am’ is the inner sense of beingness, the inner perception of existence.” The outer appearance is simply the packaging, and we all know better than to judge a book by its cover.

Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi. For information on the types of services provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com


HanoiOn the Town

BARS, CLUBS & BEER CLUBS

+84 BARCONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiemfacebook.com/bar84hanoiHoused in a colonial build-ing, bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people be-hind Barbetta.

88 LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 802988group.vnA wine bar with a difference, this mainstay on the water-ing hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthet-ic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful cli-entele. Well worth a visit.

ANGELINA CONTEMPORARY ITALIANSofitel Metopole Legend Ho-tel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919Top-end bar and Italian res-taurant all in one. Five star prices, but has an atmos-phere to match and a great cocktail selection. The kind of place you’ll order a wagyu and eat it at the bar.

BACKYARD BIA HOIUPMARKET BIA HOI15/50 Quang Khanh, Tay HoFrom the Tet Lifestyle collec-tion, this outdoor, hideaway, garden-based bia hoi is every bit as attractive (and popu-lar) as its café peers in the West Lake area. A Vietnam-ese-style food menu and regular live music make up the mix.

BARBETTAARTSY BAR & CAFE34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134Set in a colonial villa, when it comes to design, the funky but comfortable Barbetta with its roof terrace is dif-ficult to beat. A great place for coffee, beer or even a bite to eat.

CAMA ATK MUSIC & ARTS BAR73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970cama-atk.comWith well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smok-ing and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows ex-actly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reli-able place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

EDEN HANOIOUTDOOR PARTY SPACEEnd of 264 Au Co, Tay Hofacebook.com/edengargenWhen it comes to outdoor parties, big outdoor parties, the setting at Eden makes this place difficult to beat, with well over a 1,000 revel-lers packing in at the week-ends. Check out their Face-book page for the party list.

ETE BAR FRENCH LOUNGE95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multi-storey restobar has been go-ing strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mez-zanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tar-tines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

FATCAT BAR DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0986 495211linkhanoi.comA small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkH-anoi. The bar has tables fill-ing the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging.

HANOI ROCK CITY LIVE MUSIC VENUE27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633 166170facebook.com/hrc.hanoiHas a downstairs, English-style pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live pro-duction. Weekly live events feature bands and DJs both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUSCZECH MICROBREWERY1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088

LE SOLEILDDJ BAR / LATE NIGHT284 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0915 663993facebook.com/lesolei l-paoloandchiOpen late, Le Soleil has be-come a place to be seen, especially if you’re the danc-ing-into-the-early hours kind of person. Sofas, bar stools, menus on blackboards and neon-coloured lighting, there’s a grunge-style feel to the place, but it’s an ambi-ence that Le Soleil’s custom-ers seem to love. Has a pizza joint, Paolo and Chi, upstairs.

MADAKEBAR & EVENT SPACE81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665facebook.com/madakehanoiWith a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lo-tus pond, this bar is famed for it’s many weekday and weekend events, its ambient Asian-style décor, DJ nights and general atmosphere. A popular West Lake go-to joint.

MAO’S RED LOUNGELATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104There’s only one Mao and there’s only one red lounge. This late-night bar has been going for years, and despite its Old Quarter dive status, it still packs in the drinkers.

PHUC TANLATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR51 Tu Gian Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 907785Now located on the river in between Long Bien and Chuong Duong Bridges, this late night, DJ bar is notorious for… well, being Phuc Tan. Almost every Hanoi-based reveler has ended up here at some point. It’s just one of those places.

POLITE PUB LONG BAR5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 09595pm to 2am Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conver-sations at the long bar, pool and live football matches.

RED RIVER TEA ROOM LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Hofacebook.com/pages/Red-River-Tea-RoomLocated on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of in-ternational and local beers, wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. Serving pies and pasties from The Cart, Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door, or delivery from nearby favourites. Un-pretentious, dog-friendly.

ROCKSTORELIVE MUSIC BAR61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087facebook.com/Rockstore-HanoiHanoi's home-made, home-grown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu. Check their Fa-cebook page for details.

SIDEWALK HANOIDIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE199D Nghi Tam, Tay Hofacebook.com/sidewalkhanoiA bar and grill with an ec-lectic, DIY-style semi-outdoor setting. Regular DJ nights and live music add to the great ambience. Check out their grill fare. Tasty.

SPY BAR HOLE IN THE WALL12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802A cheap, cheerful and wel-coming slither of a watering hole popular with expats and anyone looking for some good conversation. Cheap beers, oodles of Jameson’s and often open late. Oh, and check out the Danish hotdog stand out front. To die for.

TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiemtadioto.comLocated close to the Opera House, this alternative, arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside, with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Creat-ing an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary art-work lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this well-known and well-loved space.

THE NESTVIETNAMESE-STYLE BAR & CLUBTop Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0947 890333f a c e b o o k . c o m / N e s t .Lounge.09XuanDieuThe West Lake location sug-gests that this is the kind of bar that will attract expats. It does. But thanks to the Vietnamese atmosphere, there’s a nice mix of local and foreign over the three floors of lounge seating, DJ booths and dance areas. The views here are pretty eye-catching, too.

THE REPUBLICMODERN SPORTS BAR7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 010116republic.vnA contemporary mid-range bar and eatery showing live sport and boasting a convivial atmosphere. Has a creative comfort food menu, excellent breakfasts, daily specials and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace.

THE ROOFTOP SKYLINE LOUNGE19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901therooftop.vnThe first up-on-high bar and restaurant in the capital and still a leader in its field. With DJs spinning EDM and great views of the city, this is a must for a more Vietnamese, top-shelf experience.

THE UNICORN BARCOCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE2A Hang Than, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 886266The latest offering of well-known champion bartender, Pham Tien Tiep, Unicorn of-fers up a lounge space, a small bar area and an attrac-tive seating space out front. Now, as for the cocktails…

TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL SPORTS BAR/GRILL114 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6675 9838tracyspub.com A miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is also famous for their draft beers, claim-ing to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi.

VUVUZELAMODERN BEER HALL2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 8922vuvuzela.com.vnWhen Vuvuzela opened up, mixing the Hooters concept from the US with a beer hall, drinking food and a DJ booth, it created the start of a new scene — beer clubs. The origi-nal Vuvuzela on Tran Thanh Tong is still going strong, but it’s so popular that it’s best to book your table in advance. For a full list of Hanoi loca-tions, check their website.

CAFES

ANNAM CAFEDELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFESyrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay HoA trendy, deli-style café con-nected to Annam Gourmet next door. Bright and fresh décor is complemented by shelves stocked with im-ported gourmet goods and cafeteria-style furniture. An eye-catching temptation for weary shoppers.

CIAO CAFÉRESTO LOUNGE2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise of-fers a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Viet-namese crowd, the estab-lishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. They also do coffee.

COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240coffeebean.comThis American-style chain cafe is a multilevel, indoor/outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee


RED RIVER TEA ROOM BAR STOOL

PHOTOS BY FUJI PHAM

The Red River Tea Room is a haven on the shores of West Lake for those tiring of rambunctious backpackers, loud Vietnamese

ballads and weak beer.The bar is larger than it seems, with two

separate buildings, tables next to the lake, comfortable indoor seating, a pleasant upper �oor with a terrace, and a rooftop deck. Pleasant decor makes you feel at home without trying too hard to be hip or follow any particular design. With its wooden furniture, reds and yellows, and cosy lighting, Red River Tea Room looks like a nice, homey pub.

The menu is also striking for its excellent selection of beer, cider, and spirits. I sipped a refreshing Stowford Press cider (VND95,000) at a lakeside table, chatting with a friend and watching a man catch a series of

medium-sized cat�sh with his bamboo pole.Friendly staff are eager to help out in

many different ways, from parking your motorbike for you (just leave it outside the door) to bringing food menus from various neighbourhood restaurants. They will also order your food for you, which is delivered right to the bar.

Whiling Away the TimeThe place seems to be popular with a slightly older expat crowd, which gives it a pleasant quiet pub atmosphere, but there is still plenty to do; the bar offers a wide selection of table games, including chess, Apples to Apples, Connect 4, or Jenga for patrons looking for a laid-back complement to conversation.

On this particular afternoon my friend and I had a lazy game of chess, which

became both more dif�cult and also more fun as the afternoon progressed. Although I had only planned to stay for one, we ended up whiling away a few comfortable hours there. First I tried the cider, which was �zzy and not too sweet, and then a dark Beer Lao (VND65,000) for something a little more �avourful at a fairly reasonable price. Also on offer are tasty local beers, like Pasteur Street IPA (VND90,000), as well as imported beers like Leffe Blonde or Brown (VND95,000).

The Red River Tea Room is the sort of bar you can’t quite work up the momentum to leave. It’s as comfortable as your own home, but with a much better selection of drinks, and (probably) a much better view. — Kate Robinson

The Red River Tea Room is located at 25 Tu Hoa, Tay Ho, Hanoi


RED RIVER TEA ROOM


PHOBIAS

THE THERAPISTBY DOUGLAS HOLWERDA

Dear Douglas,I want to know what is wrong with me. I have had a fear of lizards since I was a young girl, but now it is affecting me every day. I cannot relax, because I am thinking they are around me. When I see one on the wall, I run the other way and make someone get it out of my house. But when there is no one to help me I feel frozen to do anything. Sometimes it affects my sleep or I wake up and the �rst thing I think is about where the lizards are. My husband and family tells me not to worry, the lizard cannot hurt me. I know all of this…so maybe I am getting crazy. Can you help me?

— Crazy Girl

Dear Crazy Girl,You are not crazy. You have something that many people have. It is called a “phobia”. It means an extreme irrational fear or aversion to something. People can have phobias of many things, including heights, spiders, �ying, darkness, germs… and lizards or geckos. It is irrational… meaning that the fear doesn’t make sense, logically. You have said that you know that nothing very bad will happen if there is a lizard in

your house or room. You might feel like you are “crazy” because it is irrational and the emotion (fear) is very strong.

Fear is an emotion that is meant to be helpful to us by warning us when we perceive danger. If it is not too strong we can make a good decision to deal with the danger. Often the solution is to confront the danger (�ght), run away from the danger (�ight), or to become invisible like animals who use camou�age (freeze). These responses are part of a survival instinct called stress mode, and generate hormones and other body chemistry, like adrenaline, in order to alert us to protect ourselves.

The problem comes when we overreact. Our body goes into “stress mode” when the real danger is not very high. Remember that emotions are �uid, like water, and that they come and go. We have all seen a child crying very hard one minute and 10 minutes later laughing and playing again. But sometimes we interfere with the �uidity of our emotions. We block them from moving through us and allow the intensity to build up so that they dominate our thinking and our behaviour, the choices we make.

In order to overcome the phobia it is

necessary to confront it step by step. You have said that you “freeze” when you feel the fear of seeing a lizard. With the help of a support person, you will be able to overcome the fear by exposing yourself to lizards and tolerating the discomfort you feel long enough to see the emotion come and go. It is often best to start with some relaxation exercises. The next step might be to look at pictures. Look closely at the picture and observe the feeling you have, even if it is uncomfortable, until the feeling becomes less dif�cult. Step by step you go closer to the thing that you fear, with someone by your side, and simply pay attention to how the feeling comes and goes. You focus on your breathing and other ways to relax yourself.

My recommendation is to seek a psychotherapist who can help guide you through this. It has been proven to be successful and is called systematic desensitization. Look it up if you want to read more.

I am sure it will feel really good to overcome this fear and you will not need to wonder, “am I crazy?”

Good luck,— Douglas


and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Hanoi.

CONG CAPHE LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh; 27 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem; 15 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh; 100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Hocongcaphe.comWith a kitsch, communist-driven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bo-hemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on fresh-ly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest café chains in town.

D’ALICEBOUTIQUE CAFE89 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba TrungPut together coffee and cake and you get one of those timeless combinations. And if you really want to binge on the cake-end, then check out d’Alice and its quirky interior. Perfect for that more modern combination of sweet tooth and iThingy.

DUY TRIVIETNAMESE CAFÉ43 Yen Phu, Tay HoThe longest-running café in the capital, this 1936-estab-lished, three-floored space is simplicity at its finest. Even the coffee here sticks to its roots — it’s made using the same blend of Arabica and Robusta cooked up by its founders. Unpretentious, en-dearing and old-fashioned.

HANOI COOKING CENTRE CAFÉCOURTYARD CAFE44 Chau Long, Ba DinhRelax in a leafy courtyard, air-con dining room or under a covered roof terrace with a Vietnamese ca phe, Italian coffee, beer, wine or freshly squeezed juice. Order from a seasonally changing menu or try one of the all-day breakfast specials for VND110,000, in-cluding juice and coffee or tea.

HANOI HOUSEHIDEAWAY CAFE2nd Floor, 47A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan KiemSet in a colonial-era build-ing with equally colonial-era styled furnishings, this hidden away family house café is one of those gems synonymous with Hanoi. Quiet, intimate and simple, the staff will treat you like you’re a guest in their home.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228;

Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiemhighlandscoffee.com.vnWith numerous locations around town, what originally started as a fourth-floor joint overlooking the lake has become one of the most popular, home-grown cafes in Vietnam.

JOMACOFFEE/BAKERY22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388; 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071joma.bizPopular café with a con-temporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there, too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to chari-table organisations.

KINH DOPATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216One of the longest-running cafes in town, this hole-in-the-wall, no frills café-cum-restaurant home-makes its patisseries and is renowned for its excellent yoghurt.

MANZI ARTSPACEARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397facebook.com/manzihanoiA stunningly designed con-temporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too.

MAISON DE TET DÉCORLIFESTYLE CAFE36 Tu Hoa, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 9722tet-lifestyle-collection.comOn-site coffee roasting, comfortable seating arrange-ments, rustic style furnish-ings and décor, and a focus on healthy, non-processed foods. This is the concept behind Maison de Tet Décor, and it’s a popular one, too, as witnessed by the size of the clientele. Also run occa-sional farmers’ markets.

MOC CAFECAFE / INTERNATIONAL14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. (04) 3825 6334Set in a slightly run down colonial villa, the faded but charmingly run down French-styled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western

and pan-Asian mains.

PUKU INTERNATIONAL / CAFE16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745This spacious spot on Food Street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Up-stairs is fit for social gather-ings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, especially late at night.

SAINT HONORE CAFE / BOULANGERIE5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355This cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked bakery aroma hits you as you walk through the door. The down-stairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The up-stairs lounge area has stand-ard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

TET DÉCOR CAFÉ ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BARVilla 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Hotet-lifestyle-collection.comCloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music. Simple and unpretentious, the café has an old-fash-ioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations.

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUBCAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117facebook.com/thehanoiso-cialclubA cozy midsize café/restau-rant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and here you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The ood is fresh and inter-nationally inspired, and has an excellent top-floor terrace.

YOLOFUNKY LIVE MUSIC CAFE32C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinhfacebook.com/YoloCoffee-ShopsBoasting an abundance of communal seating, funky de-cor and a full roster of regu-lar live music performances, this rollicking café-slash-bar has quickly earned a place in the hearts of Hanoi’s young and trendy. Fun, unpreten-tious and unashamedly

quirky, it’s endearing use of recycled furniture — antiques and colourful artwork create a vibrant atmosphere — make for a popular hangout. Open 24 hours.

ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFEVEGETARIAN / VEGAN247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561zenithyogavietnam.comA vegetarian and vegan cafe respecting the philosophy of yoga — simple living, mindful thinking. Using 100 percent natural ingredients, the cui-sine has no additional addi-tives or MSG and is cooked using the minimal amount of oil. The stress is instead on eating whole food in its natural state.

EAT

AL FRESCO’S AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 1155alfrescogroup.com

AMATOTAPAS / FRENCH CUISINE1A Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01227 367470Located next to Binh Minh Jazz Club, Amato is a fusion tapas bar by night and a French restaurant during the day. Tiny, hip and yet surpris-ingly spacious, Amato offers an international dining and drinking experience in the heart of Hanoi.

AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224aulacdobrazil.comA Brazilian churrascaria offering all-you-can-eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer. In typical Brazil-ian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pair-ings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas.

ASAHI SUSHISUSHI RESTAURANT288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945asahisushi.vn

CAFÉ 129MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342Long-running, slightly in-congruous hole-in-the-wall café and restaurant that has served up up a Western menu since the late 1990s. Check out their and their ex-cellent breakfasts, all scoffed down in a traditional, Viet-namese environment.

CHOPSGOURMET BURGER & CRAFT BEER4 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6292 1044chopsvietnam.comFinally Hanoi has a dedicated gourmet burger joint, and this West Lake eatery with its fan-cooled atmosphere get it just about right. This is com-fort food at its finest. Served up with locally brewed craft beer, and this one’s a bit of a winner.

COUSINSCONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Tel: 01238 670098facebook.com/cousins.hanoiA contemporary, French-influenced restaurant sell-ing international cuisine at reasonable prices in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Blackboards, whitewashed, bare-brick walls, period tiles, a well-chosen wine list and an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the formula.

DA PAOLO CLASSIC ITALIAN18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317This airy, contemporary look-ing Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former man-ager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, deliv-ery is also available.

DALUVAFUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831 daluva.comA popular hang-out for ex-pats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and res-taurant offers casual dining with a classy, Middle-Eastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor.

DON’S TAY HO CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719Dons-bistro.comThis lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine con-noisseur Donald Berger. Fo-cusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes Excel-lent range of imported oys-ters, great breakfasts and an extensive wine list.

HanoiOn the Town


HALF MY COMPETITION

STUDENT EYEBY TO THU PHUONG

“Think of it this way, half your competition’s gone.” The context of this quote; a conversation with college

counsellors about the perks of all-women colleges. Taken out of context, it could also be the complete opposite; an argument for the perks of all-men colleges.

On the thorny path of college and �nancial aid admissions, young (and most of the time ambitious) high-school graduates are reincarnated as serial College Scholarship Service (CSS) pro�le-�llers and overnight-essay writers. There is no magic formula, no real contingency plans to fall back on, and even if one succeeds in these two steps, a �nal uncontrollable externality remains: the existence of other similar hopefuls.

Ever since I was little, a fundamental life rule was instilled in me; always look above, never below. It was my mantra against mediocrity. As I grew up, I’ve gradually realized that to understand the bizarre

world in which we live, more categories were necessary, but that through it all, we generally try to sum reality up in the same simple order; who’s better than who?

Girls vs. Boys To be considered each other’s competitors, two genders would have to be on equal footing in both quantity and quality. In terms of quantity, is it true that there is a 50-50 distribution of male and females in the world? Roughly so, nature has a thing for symmetry. The real question is which one is better than the other.

In my class, the leader board in grades is mainly made up of female names. This is not a singular occurrence, it’s been proven that girls struggle less with academics than boys. So If I were to look above academically, my entire competition would be from the same gender as me. But if we were to play catch or dodgeball and the teams were divided in’Girls vs. Boys’, in most cases, the boys would win by a landslide.

Once upon a time the discussion would have veered towards male dominance and victory, social progress however intervened and luckily so; men and women are now more or less considered fairly in all their differences. It would be a mistake to put the two in competition with each other; there would be no winner, just differences.

Therefore, what advantage do I really get even if the male population is out of the equation? Wouldn’t any woman want her achievements to be evaluated equally in perspective with both genders?

Differences and InequalitiesIn my opinion, the beauty of women's colleges lies in the fact that they are places that view women and men in rightfully different lights, thus acknowledging the differences without turning them into inequalities. Women's colleges were at �rst a response to the dominance of male-exclusive colleges; perhaps now they are reminders that we don’t have to be the same to be equal.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280; 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991elgaucho.com.vnWith venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of El Gaucho is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay — the USDA cuts are to die for — but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a back-drop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting, an extensive wine list and slick service. There’s a reason El Gaucho is so successful — everything’s being taken care of.

FOODSHOP 45 INTERNATIONAL INDIAN59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959foodshop45.comLakeside location and low bamboo seating, this eatery is one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo tak-ing centre stage.

FRENCH GRILLTOP-END GRILL JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588facebook.com/frenchgrillWith unique decor, contem-porary ambience, a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy res-taurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital.

GREEN TANGERINE FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286greentangerinehanoi.comA leafy, cobblestone court-yard with dark green cast-iron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochi-

na-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers com-ing back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.

HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639; 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372The home of Son Tinh liquor, Highway 4 is also known for its communal dining and ethnic food menu taking in dishes from around the re-gions of northern Vietnam. Try out their catfish spring rolls. Phenomenal!

INDIA PALACENORTH INDIAN10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: 01247 [email protected] a phoenix rising from the ashes, so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho, this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse. Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant environment from the team behind Tandoor.

J.A.F.A. INTERNATIONALG2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.

JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE STEAKHOUSE / GRILL23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3938 8388alfrescogroup.comAn all-day eating and drink-ing lounge fit for all occa-sions, with of course, a focus on steak. Has three floors all with different vibes, the kind of slick service you’d expect from the Al Fresco’s Group and an extensive wine list.

JASPA’S INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIANHanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325alfrescosgroup.comRecently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. Popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The compre-hensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large and the wine is mainly New World.

KOTO ON VAN MIEU RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337koto.com.auThe restaurant arm of Koto, an F&B training school for disadvantaged youth. Au-thentic Asian and European cuisine is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pas-tas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

KY Y JAPANESE RICE EATERY166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386Not to be mistake for a sushi joint, this wonderful restau-rant is your typical, Japanese working person’s rice eatery. Has a bar area downstairs and booth-like seating on the upper floors.

LA BADIANE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 4509

labadiane-hanoi.comOn entering La Badiane, you are instantly caught by the multitude aromas coming from the open front kitch-en. Then, surrounded by leaf plants, and predominantly white walls, the customer is struck by this venue’s calm and elegance. Although the dining experience at la Badi-ane is about the food, great attention is also paid to the ambience so you can enjoy every aspect of your meal. Voted one of Miele Guide’s Top 500 Restaurants in Asia.

LA BICICLETABARCELONA-STYLE BISTRO44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246thbc.vnSpanish Tapas fare is avail-able elsewhere, but this is the only eatery where it is authentic and from Barcelo-na. Great selection of sand-wiches, tapas and paella as well as enormous Spanish-style gin and tonics, Tinto de Verano, carajillos and sangria. Also known for its moreish, Catalan-style des-serts. Closed Mondays.

LA SALSA IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN5 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3995 0950lasalsa-hanoi.comA small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reli-able cuisine. Tapas are avail-able, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral.

LA VERTICALE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317verticale-hanoi.comSituated in an art-deco villa, this establishment is run by the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, the up market estab-lishment lures in its high class customers with quality Viet-

namese-French fusion cuisine.

LE BEAULIEU CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFETSofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919The Metropole’s signature restaurant serving up both classic and contemporary French fare. Buffet options mix with an a la carte menu and an ambience that could be straight out of Paris.

LINGUINI FINIITALIAN-AMERICAN36-38 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3266 8968linguinifini.com/en/hanoiWith branches in Hong Kong and Manilla, the contempo-rary Italian-American Linguini Fini pulls no punches with its first outlet in Vietnam. Sleek modern décor, high quality cuisine, home-made pasta, reasonable prices and dishes cooked up with the freshest ingredients available are part of the deal, as are some damn fine pizzas.

LUNA D’AUTUNNO CLASSIC ITALIAN27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823 7338lunadautunno.vnThis old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND100,000 to build-your-own-skies-the-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses. Has regular live music and a great Ital-ian wine list.

MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE PAN-CHINESEFortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333fortuna.vnElegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Show-casing a selection of authen-tic Chinese fare together with dim sum, May Man boasts extensive a la carte menus,

dim sum menus and set menus. Reservations recom-mended.

MEDITERRANEO PAN-ITALIAN23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288This long-running, cozy res-taurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Boasts an extensive wine list and a traditional wood fire oven.

MING PALACE PAN-CHINESESofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.

MILLENIUM-CAFÉ DES ARTSPAN-FRENCH11 Hang Hanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207cafe-des-arts.comA contemporary and chic three-storey restaurant with a terrace and views over one of Hanoi’s best-known alleys. Serves up quality French cui-sine such as: snails, foie gras, lobster, scallops, chateaubri-and and tournedos Rossini. Does an excellent set menu and also has a daily specials board.

MOOSE AND ROOCANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area. Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers. Clever


TRANQUIL COFFEE CUP


TRANQUIL

PHOTOS BY FUJI PHAM

When Hanoi becomes too much an attack on the senses, sometimes it pays to forget it’s there.

As its name suggests, Tranquil is not the place that you come to catch up with a large group of friends you haven’t seen since last spring; the tables are littered with laptops and sketchbooks. Tranquil is where you go to sip coffee and put those archived ideas and inspirations onto paper, watched over by towering bookshelves and soothed by a piano sitting next to a red �replace.

Not Just CaffeineOnce I am settled, the barista puts a menu on the table along with a glass of cold water. The cappuccino I order at the bar is a reasonable VND48,000 and served with half an inch of froth, once the coffee is gone there is still enough froth in the mug to spoon out

with a topping of sugar.The décor is very wooden, with the

occasional red brick interrupted by the spine of a paperback. One side of the room is the coffee bar; wooden stalls lined up in front of it and a collection of mugs hanging from a rack. The bar-top is busy with glass jars of free sweets to snack on while you wait for your coffee, or if you’d prefer a warm croissant, it’s only VND20,000.

Behind the coffee bar is a bold menu, with different espressos starting from VND24,000, and the regular coffee options are no more than VND34,000. There is also a range of herbal tea and ‘brain refreshers’ for those working away the daylight hours; these range from lemon juice (VND34,000) to the signature ‘Tranquil Rock’ blend of espresso, bourbon and cream (VND60,000). Lastly, of course, hot chocolate for those chilly Hanoi mornings (VND52,000).

By NightI look forward to coming back one evening with some company to try some of the drinks options Tranquil offers; a dry martini, whisky sour or mojito all average a reasonable VND60,000. The outside area is netted with tea lights and small tables sporting ashtrays for more audible chatter, while the two sofas inside provide the perfect setting for a writers’ or book club.

Tranquil is the perfect atmosphere to escape Hanoi’s bustle, and the large selection of books makes a nice addition to an already serene atmosphere. It would be nice to see more food options in the future. Overall, Tranquil lives up to its name. — Billy Gray

Tranquil is at 5 Nguyen Quang Bich, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi or online at facebook.com/Tranquil-1577260969205379


WANNAWAFFLE? TOP EATS

Is “wannawaffle?" a rhetorical question? The obvious answer is, yes, of course I do. But the real question here is, what kind of waffle do you want? Chocolate,

matcha, raisin? Do you want it covered in raspberry gelato or nutella or butterscotch sauce? Would you like it as a pizza? Maybe what we’re really being asked here is, do you want to waf�e? Because it might take you a bit of waf�ing to decide on all these options.

“At �rst, people were scared, and stuck to basic waf�es. But now, they are getting more creative,” says co-owner Nguyen Hai Duy. He points out his favourite combination, a raisin waf�e with coconut gelato, bananas and chocolate sauce, one of several set combos on the menu for the more indecisive.

The concept, which began in June 2013, was originally focused on takeaway, but it soon became obvious to Duy and partner Dinh Tuong Linh that they wanted to give customers a sit-down experience where they could really experiment with their waf�e creations. Now, three stores later, the brand has found its footing.

The Personal TouchTheir newest location sits above the Circle K on Dinh Tien Hoang, overlooking Hoan Kiem Lake. Walking in off the chaotic street, through the bright convenience store lights, and upstairs into their aesthetically serene space is an experience in itself. With heavy slate tables, a neutral colour scheme, and the kind of wood grain that can only be

described as ‘sexy’, it comes as no surprise that Linh studied architecture in London.

At �rst glance, the design feels professionally branded. But look closer, and you’ll see the personal touches, like porcelain napkin holders handmade by Duy’s father, and custom wooden cutlery designed speci�cally with the challenge of scooping both waf�es and gelato in mind. Even the photos on the menu, which I could have sworn were professionally done, are in fact homegrown; a team effort taken entirely by iPhones, inspired by the staff’s personal Instagram accounts.

Their culinary dedication equals that of their design; all the waf�es are made fresh every morning, and again around 2pm. They make their own batter, sauce, and whipped


PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

cream. “We even tried making our own Nutella once!” Duy laughs. It’s important to him that their ingredients are not only fresh, but locally sourced, too. “We want to keep it as Vietnamese as possible,” he says.

Time for some WaffleSo, in the spirit of Vietnam, I opted for a matcha waf�e with coconut gelato, fresh mango, and chocolate sauce (VND75,000). Where many matcha desserts disappoint by being either too sweet or too bitter, this one is well-balanced (and you can easily eat more than one). The gelato is made from young coconuts, which provide a sweeter pulp. It holds together better than ice cream, and this means you can take your time savouring the way it complements the

crispy, warm confection beneath, without worrying that it will become a melted mess.

And while we’re on the subject of non-traditional waf�e varieties, stuf�ng one with cream cheese and chives and topping it with smoked salmon (VND80,000) is a delicious savoury twist on the traditionally sweet dish. In order to make this work, Duy tells me they created a special batter with onion and basil that would complement the salty, tangy toppings. If you’re still hungry, have a pizza waf�e, too (VND80,000).

Other notable menu options include a decadent take on the classic English dessert, Banoffee (VND70,000): buttery, dense shortcake nestled between caramelised bananas, coffee, and homemade whipped cream, topped with granola, and the mountain

cake (VND35,000), reminiscent of a giant, vanilla eclair, paired with strawberry sauce.

Stuffed to the brim with all that deliciousness, I decided that the salmon waf�e is something that I need regularly in my life, possibly once a week, or more. Thankfully, Duy informed me that they have a loyalty programme for new addicts such as myself, and student discounts to reward the hard-working scholars of Hanoi. Now all we need is a location in Tay Ho, and I’ll never have to endure the horrors of waf�e withdrawal. — Jesse Meadows

wannawaf�e? has three locations in Hanoi: 27 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem; 138 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; and Unit 108, Indochina Plaza, 241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay. You can also �nd them online at facebook.com/wannawaf�e


HIGHWAY 4 TOP EATS

In among the bustle of downtown Hoan Kiem lives Highway 4, an elegant yet laid-back setting with a knockout menu and an impressive selection of

award-winning traditional rice liquors, all under the roof of a renovated French villa dating back to the 1950s; yellow brick with an inviting sign hanging over the door, nestled in green ivy.

Once inside, Highway 4 offers multiple storeys of carefully crafted atmosphere. The �rst �oor doesn’t leave much space to walk around, a few rich wooden benches stand between busy walls — old paintings and maps of Hanoi provide a visual reminder of the city’s history, and plants and candles add

to the comfortable feel.“Highway 4 isn’t just about the food or the

drink, it’s about the experience,” says owner Dan Dockery, and it’s easy to see what he’s getting at. The restaurant has a down-to-earth feel about it, the kind of place you can sit down with friends and family to enjoy each other’s company. Highway 4’s food menu is largely comprised of Vietnamese meze style dishes giving a real essence of communal dining, and offers a huge variety of traditional fare inspired from all regions of Vietnam.

CombinationThe �rst dish that I eat is one that has

become something of a sensation among Hanoi’s food lovers — the mouth-watering Highway 4 cat�sh spring rolls (VND68,000). Their reputation is well deserved; this is a traditional dish with a twist. Delicious cat�sh with fresh dill and mayonnaise are wrapped in rice paper and accompanied by a sensational oyster sauce and wasabi dip. The in�uence of French and Japanese cuisine on this traditional Vietnamese dish is certainly noticeable — it’s a combination like no other.

After �nishing my �rst plate I try one of Highway4’s award-winning rice liquors under the Son Tinh brand name, a 375ml bottle of which costs between VND228,000


PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

and VND378,000. There are 12 �avours to choose from, ranging from apricot to white ginseng. The Son Tinh Distillery is located less than 30km from Hoan Kiem Lake and Son Tinh is Vietnam’s �rst and only internationally awarded liquor brand, honoured with a hatful of medals at liquor competitions as far apart as the UK, Austria, Hong Kong, Australia and the USA. The liquor is a warm and smooth complement to the meal, and the �avours only increase my appetite.

Chirp and chatterMy next course is pork hanger steak grilled with talauma seeds (VND128,000). This

often overlooked but delicious cut of pork is �avour enhanced all the more by the presence of the rare talauma seeds native to northern Vietnam. On the side I order a plate of crickets roasted with lemon leaves (VND68,000). Both plates are full of �avour and are accompanied with a variety of fresh herbs and salad. The crickets, one of Highway 4’s more exotic plates, make a welcome treat to snack on under the canopy of chatter and the faint but present buzz of Hanoi’s Old Quarter outside.

Highway 4 has something to offer for every diner, its range of meze-style plates, rice and noodle dishes, salads, broths and exotic specials are an exhibition for the

tastebuds and the wonderfully unique and �avoursome Son Tinh sticky rice liquor is a perfect sidekick for a friendly gathering.

The staff is friendly, the atmosphere is warm, and the food is excellent. Vietnam has some great cuisine, but it’s often scattered here and there, individual dishes reserved to out of the way places. Highway 4 is a hub of Vietnamese �avours all in one place. — Billy Gray

The Highway 4 I visited is located at 5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem. They have three other restaurants in Hanoi: 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem and 101 Tran Thai Tong, Cau Giay. You can find them online at highway4.com/en


WORMS

MEDICAL BUFF BY DR. MICHAEL E SANTOS

Living in Vietnam; travelling through Asia; enjoying street food; children and play dates; family pets — these all mean that at one

time you will have to research and ask for assistance regarding worms.

People can become infected with a variety of worms such as roundworms, hookworms, thread worm and tapeworms.

Nearly half the world's population — more than 3 billion people — are infected with at least one of the three main parasites — large roundworms, hookworms and whipworms. They all wriggle, look like white cotton thread and hatch eggs in the host.

Their Favourite PlacesAir. Some worm eggs are so small and light they can be carried through the air by high wind and then can become attached to an unsuspecting host.

Food. Fruit and vegetables can be grown near or in contaminated soil; then picked by people who have contaminated soil on their hands.

Ground. Worms can enter the body through the feet; a healthy foot or a cut foot will give parasites a chance. If you walk barefoot anywhere there are animal faeces, a swampy moist area, puddles, a dirty locker room or dirty beaches, you could become infected

Animals. Family pets need to be wormed regularly, as they can easily become hosts; by walking through infected areas; eating soil infected with worms' eggs, suckling contaminated mothers and eating infected animals.

Signs of Worms within a Human BodyThere are many symptoms you can experience as a result of worms and parasites. These include:

Chronic fatigue, depression, lethargy, irritability, insomnia, always hungry, teeth grinding while sleeping, craving sugar and starchy carbohydrate foods, aching and swollen joints, food sensitivities, constipation, diarrhoea, itching rectum, weight loss and vague fuzzy thoughts, weight gain and feeling spaced out, stomach gas, an inability to concentrate, water retention, a lack of focus, cysts, anaemia, dark circles under eyes and bulging eyes.

Drug Treatment It is best to treat the entire family in one go, but always speak with your doctor to begin the �rst treatment and then you can easily get repeat prescriptions over the counter.

Who Must See a Doctor — Planning a pregnancy, pregnant or breast feeders — Children under two years of age — People with epilepsy, a gut blockage, liver disease or severely decreased kidney functions — People with neurological diseases — Patients with complications should be seen by a doctor — With persistent reinfections, you could be referred to a parasitologist.

PreventionAlways wash your hands and nails thoroughly before preparing food, especially if you are working outside or have soil under your nails.

Insist that people who prepare your food also follow a sensible guide to clean hands, clean nails before preparing food.

Why Antibiotics May Not Work Worms and parasites reproduce by dropping a reproductive cell within your body called a spore. These spores just sit and wait, maybe up to five to six weeks, then the spore becomes a new worm. There is a range of proper treatments for an active infection and there are different antibiotics for different stages. Talk with your doctor before starting a new course.

RebuildingOnce you have completed the elimination of worms and parasites, and cleansed the poisons from your body, it’s important to remember your organs and systems are quite damaged by these pests and the poisons they leave in your body.

Consider lifestyle changes — taking powerful probiotics and enzymes are a possibility for the duration of a rebuilding programme. Supplements of vitamins and minerals can help in some cases.

It is recommended de-worming should be done approximately every six months to get rid of any pests living inside us, especially if you love your regular street food.

Dr Michael E Santos is a general practitioner for Family Medical Practice Hanoi. For more advice on any medical topics, visit Family Medical Practice Hanoi on 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh or call (04) 3843 0748. FMP’s Ho Chi Minh City clinics are at Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1; 95 Thao Dien, Q2

HanoiOn the Town

changing imagery on the walls.

MOOSE AND ROO SMOKEHOUSEAMERICAN GRILLThe American Club, 19-21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3939 2470mooseandroo.comThere’s a reason for Smokehouse’s popularity — the excellent, on-site smoked meats together with all the typical, American-style sides. Set in the American Club, dining is both indoors and out, and comes with the best bourbon selection in town.

NAMASTE HANOI PAN-INDIAN46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3935 2400namastehanoi.comThe well-loved Namaste special-ises in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. Hosted by the gregarious Gopi, a meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts.

NAN N KABAB49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0922 087799Specialising in Pakistani cuisine and of course nan bread and ke-babs, this semi-outdoor, bamboo tabled, laid back eatery also sells fare from Afganistan and India. In a sentence? Curry, but not as you know it.

NINETEEN 11 INTERNATIONAL / ASIANThe Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801nineteen11.com.vnNamed after the completion date of the Hanoi Opera House, this upscale yet casual restau-rant maintains an ambience of elegance, luxury and mystery. The cuisine mixes international fare with twists on Vietnamese cuisine and comes complete with a formidable wine list and an in-house sommelier.

OLD HANOIGOURMET VIETNAMESE4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337hanoixua.vn/enGordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favour-ites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, all in a casually elegant set-ting that make this spot near the train tracks a standout.

PANE E VINO PAN-ITALIAN 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080facebook.com/panevinoHNJust a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eat-ery that has the feel of Europe. Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.

PIZZA 4P’SJAPANESE PIZZA JOINT24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01208 034444pizza4ps.comFamed for its home-made moz-zarella and Japanese-inspired pizzas that break all the rules, the Hanoi outlet of Pizza 4P’s is as popular as its Saigon branch, a restaurant that has been greeted by accolades by all asunder. All pizzas are cooked in a wood-fired oven and use fresh, local ingredients.

POTS ‘N PANS CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204potsnpans.vn Brought to you by a group of for-mer disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restaurant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi.

PRESS CLUB CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 0888hanoi-pressclub.comWooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contempo-rary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serv-ing up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere

SAINT HONOREBOULANGERIE / BISTRO5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355sainthonore.com.vnThis bakery and French-style bis-tro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times.

THE CART SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Vil-lage, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513thecartfood.comSmall cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunch-time favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE KAFECONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 6245thekafe.vnSpacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner. Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this ca-fé-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community.

WRAP & ROLL5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718wrap-roll.comThe lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hue-influenced cuisine. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City.

ZENITH VEGETARIAN RESTAU-RANTHOLISTIC VEGETARIAN247Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561zenithyogavietnam.com/ze-nith-cafeA vegetarian and vegan café connected to Zenith Yoga that respects yoga philosophy. Sim-ple living, mindful thinking and 100 percent natural ingredients, all the food here is served up without additional additives or MSG and using only fresh sea-sonal products. All dishes are made in house.

STREETFOOD

3 CHI EMPHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO / COM18 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho

BANH CUON HANG GABANH CUON14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem

BANH DA TRONBANH DA TRON6 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

BANH MI 25STREETSIDE BANH MI25 Hang Ca, Hoan Kiem

BIT TET NGON SO 5VIETNAMESE BEEFSTEAK

20A Hoe Nhai, Ba Dinh

BUN BO NAM BOBUN BO NAM BO67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem

BUN CHA DAC KIMBUN CHA1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem; 67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem

KCC (KIEN CAN COOK)COM RANG DUA BO57 Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da

MIEN TRON HANHMIXED GLASS NOODLES7B Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem

MY VAN THANWONTON NOODLES54 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem

PHO BO CU CHIEUPHO BO48 Hang Dong, Hoan Kiem

PHO CUON HUNG BENPHO CUON26 Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh

PHO GA BA LAMPHO GA7 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem

PHO GA HANG DIEUPHO GA1 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem

PHO GIA TRUYEN BAT DANPHO BO49 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem

PHO LY QUOC SUPHO BO10 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem

PHO THIN LO DUCSAUTEED BEEF PHO13 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung

PHO TRONMIXED PHO5 Phu Doan, Hoan Kiem; 47 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 2 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem; 6 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem

PHO TU LUNPHO BO23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

XOI HANG HOMSTICKY RICE44 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem


19 - 12 E4An Duong B4An Thanh 1 B3An Trach D3An Xa C4Au Co A3Au Trieu D4Ba Trieu E4Bach Dang D5, E5Bach Dang E5 Bao Linh D5Bat Su D4Ben Nhat Ban A2, B2Bich Cau D3Cao Ba Quat D4, D3Cao Nam D2Cat Linh D3Cau Dat E5 Cau Giay D1Cau Go D5, D4Chau Long C4Chua Lang E1Chua Mot Cot D3Chuong Duong Do D5Co Tam E5 Co Xa C4Cua Bac C4Cua Nam D4Da Tuong E4Dang Dung C4Dang Tat C3Dang Thai Mai B2Dang Thai Than E5 Dang Tran Con D3Dao Tan D1Dien Bien Phu D4, D3Dinh Cong D2Dinh Le D5Dinh Liet D4Dinh Tien Hoang D5, D4Doan Thi Diem D3Doc Lan A5Doc Lap D3Doi Can D3, D2Dong Quan C1Dong Xuan C4, D4Duong Buoi D1, C1Duong Quan Ham D1Duong Thanh D4Gam Cau C4Gia Ngu D5, D4Giang Van Minh D3GianG Vo D3, D2Hai Ba Trung D4, E4, E5Ham Long E4Ham Tu Quan D5Hang Can D4Hang Bac D4Hang Bai E4, E5Hang Be D5Hang Bong D4Hang Bun C4Hang Buom D4Hang Chieu D4Hang Cot C4Hang Da D4Hang Dao D4Hang Dau C4, D5Hang Dieu D4Hang Dong D4Hang Duong D4Hang Ga D4Hang Gai D4Hang Khoai C4Hang Luoc C4, D4Hang Ma D4Hang Nam D5Hang Ngang D4Hang Non D4Hang Than C4Hang Thung D5Hang Tre D5

Hang Trong D4Hang Vai D4Hang Voi D5Hao Nam D3, E2Hoa Lo E4Hoa Nam E3Hoang Dieu D3Hoang Hoa Tham C1, C2, C3Hoang Quoc Viet C1Hoang Van Thu C3Hoe Nhai C4Hung Vuong C3Khuc Hao D3Kim Ma D2, D1Kim Ma Thuong D1La Thanh E3, E2, E1, D1Lac Long Quan A1, B1Lang Ha E2Le Duan D4, E4Le Hong Phong D3Le Lai D5Le Phung Hieu D5Le Thach D5Le Thai To D4Le Thanh Tong E5 Lieu Giai D2Linh Lang D1Lo Su D5Luong Van Can D4Ly Nam De D4Ly Quoc Su D4Ly Thuong Kiet E4, E5Ly Van Phuc D3Ma May D5Nam Ngu D4Nghi Tam B3Nghia Dung C4Ngo Tram D4Ngo Van So E4Ngoc Ha C3, D3Ngoc Khanh D2Ngoc Thuy B5Nguyen Bieu C4Nguyen Canh Chan C3Nguyen Chi Thanh D1, E1Nguyen Cong Hoan D2Nguyen Dinh Hoan C1Nguyen Hoang Ton A1Nguyen Hong E1Nguyen Khac Nhu C4Nguyen Khanh Toan D1Nguyen Khiet D5Nguyen Khuyen D4, D3Nguyen Thai Hoc D4, D3Nguyen Tri Phuong D4Nguyen Tu Gian C5Nguyen Van Ngoc D1Nha Chung D4Nha Tho D4Nhat Chieu A1Nui Truc D2Nuoc Phan Lan A3Ong Ich Khiem D3

Pham Hong Thai C4Pham Huy Thong D1Pham Su Manh E5 Phan Boi Chau D4, E4Phan Dinh Phung C3, C4Phan Huy Chu E5 Phan Ke Binh D1Pho Duc Chinh C4Phuc Tan C5, D5Phuc Xa C4Phung Chi Kien C1Phung Hung D4Quan Hoa C1, D1Quan Su D4, E4Quan Thanh C3Quang An B2Quang Ba A2Quang Trung E4Quoc Tu Giam D3So 1 B4So 9 B4Son Tay D3Ta Hien D4Tan Ap C4Tay Ho A2Thanh Cong E1, E2Thanh Nien C3Tho Nhuom D4, E4Thuoc Bac D4Thuy Khue C2, C3To Ngoc Van A2Ton Duc Thang D3, E3Tong Dan D5Tong Duy Tan D4Tran Binh Trong E4Tran Hung Dao E4, E5Tran Huy Lieu D2Tran Khanh Du E5 Tran Nguyen Han D5Tran Phu D4, D3Tran Quang Khai C4, D5Tran Quoc Toan E4Tran Vu C3Trang Thi D4Trang Tien E5 Trich Sai B1, C2Trinh Hoai Duc D3Truc Bach C4Tu Hoa Cong Chua B3Van Bao D2Van Cao C2Van Mieu D3Van Phuc D2Ve Ho A1Ven Ho C2, C3Vong Ha D5Vong Thi B1Vu Thanh D3, D2Xuan Dieu A3Xuan La A1Yen Ninh C4Yen Phu B3, C4Yet Kieu E4

Bach Thao Park

Chi Lang Park

Thuy Le Park

Long Bien Market

Dong XuanMarket

HanoiPalace

St. Joseph's CathedralCua NamMarket

Ho Chi MinhMausoleum

Ho Chi MinhMuseum

Vietnam FineArts Museum

Quan ThanhTemple

Long Bien Bus Station

Hanoi Train Station

Long Bien Train Station

Kim MaBus Station

Vietnam National Academy of Music

Ngoc KhanhBus Station

OperaHouse

Linh Quang Lake

Van Chuong Lake

Giang Vo

Lake

Thuy Le Lake

CAU LONG BIEN

CAU CHUONG DUONG

AU CO

DOC VAN

LAC

LONG

QUA

N

Nguyen Hoang Ton

Nhat

Chie

u

Quang Ba

Xuan La

Quang An

Tay Ho

Dang

Tai

i

Ngoc Van

Xuan Dieu

Nuoc Phan Lan

Ve Ho

NGHI TAM

YEN PHU

TRAN QUANG KHAI

TRAN KHANH DU

TRAN HUNG DAO

LE D

UAN

TON

DUC

THAN

GTRAN HUNG DAO

HOANG H

OA TH

AM

HOANG HOA THAM

Ngoc ThuyNgoc Thuy

Yen Phu An Thanh 1

An Duong

Nghia Dung

So 1

So 9

Pho Duc Chinh

Chau

Lon

g

Hung

Vuo

ng

Dang

Tat

Nguy

en B

ie u

Tran VuQuan ThanhThuy Khue

Ven Ho

Ven Ho

Thuy Khue

Thuy Khue

Vong Thi

Trich Sai

Trich Sai

Yen N

inh

Hang

Bun

Hoe Nhai

Hang Dau

Gam Cau

Hang Bo

Hang Non

Tong D

uy Tan

Cua Nam

Nam Ngu

Tho Nhuom

Hang Quat

Duong Thanh

Hang Trong

Hang Gai

Nha Chung

Ly Quoc Su

Phu Doan

Hang Bac Hang MamHang Tre

Hang Voi

Hang Be

Hang Thung

Dinh LietTa Hien

Gia Ngu

Cau GoDinh Tien Hoang

Dinh Tien Hoang

Lo Su

Le LaiLe Thach

Dinh Le Le Phung Hieu

Bach Dang

Bach Dang

Le Thanh Tong

Trang Tien

Dang Thai Than

Cau

Dat

Chuong Duong Do

Ham Tu Quan

Phuc Tan

Phuc TanNguyen Tu Gian

Nguyen Khiet

Bao Linh

Vong Ha

Phan

Huy

Chu

Pham Su Manh

Co Ta

m

Pham Ngu Lao

Trang Tien

Trang Thi

Ba Tr

ieu

Quan

g Tr

ung

19 -

12Hoa

Lo

Quan

Su

Da Tu

ong

Tho Nhuom

Ngo Van So Ham Long

Hang

Bai

Nguyen Thai Hoc

NGUYEN THAI HOC

KIM MA

KIM MA

LA THANH

CAU GIAY

DUON

G BUO

IDU

ONG

BUOI

HOANG QUOC VIETLA

C LON

G QUA

N

NGUY

EN C

HI TH

ANH

LIEU

GIAI

VAN

CAO

Phan

Boi

Chau

Yet

Kieu

Tran

Binh

Tron

g

Tran Quoc Toan

Hai Ba Trung

Hai Ba Trung

Ly Thuong Kiet

Ly Thuong Kiet

Ngo

Quye

n

Le Thai To

Hang CotHang Luoc

Hang

Can

Hang Ngang

Ma M

ayHang Da u Ly Thai To

Tran Nguyen Han

Tong Dan

Hang Dao

Hang Duong

Hang Ma

Hang DaQuan Su

Au Trieu

Bat

Su

Phun

g Hu

ng

Ngo Tram

Hang Bong

Nguy

en Tr

i Phu

ong

Hoan

g Di

eu

Doc

Lap

Chua Mot Cot

Le Hong Phong

Van M

ieu

Quoc Tu Giam

Cat Linh

An Trach

Hao

Nam

Vu Thanh

Nui Truc

Tran Huy Lieu

Ngoc Khanh

Linh

Lan

g

Phan Ke Binh

Duon

g Qua

ng Ha

mQu

an Ho

a

Quan

Hoa

Nguy

en D

inh H

oan

Phun

g Ch

i Kien

Dong Quan

Doi Can

Doc

Ngu

Doi Nhan

Vinh P

huc

Doi Can

Doi Can

Ngoc Ha

Ngoc Ha

Son TayVan Phuc

Van B

ao

Kim Ma Thuong

Nguyen Cong Hoan

La Thanh

Thanh Cong

Lang

Ha

Nguyen Hong

La Thanh

DAO TAN

Pham Huy Thong

Chua Lang

Nguy

en V

a n N

goc

Cao Nam

Nui Truc

Ong

I ch K

h iem

Dinh Cong Giang

Van

Minh

Dien Bien Phu

Tran Phu

Tran Phu

Nguy

en C

anh

Chan

Khuc

Hao

Trinh

Hoa

i Duc

Dang

Tran

Con

Ly Va

n Phu

c

Giang

Vo

Doan Thi Diem

Bich

Cau

Hoang Van Thu

Cao Ba Quat

Nguyen Khuyen

Thuo

c Ba

c

Hang Chieu

Hang Buom

Cua

Bac

Nguyen Khac Nhu

Pham Hong Thai

Truc Bach

Tu Ho

a Cong

Chua

Thanh

Nien

Co Xa

An Xa

Phuc Xa

Tan Ap

WestLake

Hoan KiemLake

Truc BachLake

Hang Can

Cha Ca

Nha Tho

Nguyen Khanh Toan

1

AAAAA

B

CCCHCHHCHHCHOCOOCOOCOACAACAACANCNNCNNCNGCGGCGGCG

DDD HD H

EEEEE

222

CAUCAUCAUCAUCAUCAUCAUCAUCAUCAUDCAUDDCAUDDCAUDoCAUooCAUooCAUonCAUnnCAUnnCAUngCAUggCAUggCAUggCAUggCAUg QCAUQQCAUQQCAUQQCAUQQCAUQuCAUuuCAUuuCAUuaCAUaaCAUaaCAUanCAUnnCAUnnCAUn

GIGIGIGIGIGIGIGIGIGIGIGIGIGIGIGIGINGINNGINNGINgGIggGIguGIuuGIuuGIuuGIuuGIuuGIuyGIyyGIyyGIyyGIyeGIeGIGIGI

m

GI

m

gGIggGIg AAAAAAAAAAAYAYA

TU TU TU TU TU LIEMLIEMLIEMLIEMLIEMLIEMLIEM

a

LIEMan

LIEMnn

LIEMnn

LIEMn L

LIEMLL

LIEMLL

LIEMLaLIEMaaLIEMaaLIEMaLIEMLIEM

a

LIEMaa

LIEMan

LIEMnn

LIEMn L

LIEMLL

LIEML

LIEMLIEMaLIEMaaLIEMaLIEMLIEMLIEM

Tay Ho Weekend Market

Quang AnMarket

Hang Than

Hang Vai

Hang Ga

Hang Chao

Hang Khoa

i

Dong Xuan

Hang Dieu

Hang

Don

g

LeatherMarket

Ly N

am D

e

Luong Van Can

Dang

Dun

g

PHAN DINH PHUNG

Dam Tri

ogN 78

ha

oT

DDooii CCaannDoi CanHHHHHHAAYAYAAAGIAGIGIGIGIGIGI

M

hat

Nhhaa

OAOA

uuuoouo

TTTT

ONLLLLOOOONN

NNANAA

BAMBOOHang Vai D4

BEDDINGSHang Dieu D4

CERAMICSHang Khoai C4

COBBERSHang Dong D4

COMPUTERSLy Nam De D4

COOKING INGREDIENTSTay Ho Weekend Market A2

CRAFTSHang Trong D4

EVERYTHINGDong Xuan Market C4

FASHION STORESHang Dao D4

FLOWERSQuang An Market A3

LACQUERSCan Go D4, D5

LIQUORSNha Tho D4

MECHANICSHang Chao D3

MOBILE PHONESDang Dung C4

PLANTSHoang Hoa Tham C1, C2

SECONDHAND SHOESNguyen Khanh Toan D1 SILKSHang Gai D4

SILVERSHang Bac D4

SPORTSWEARHang Dau D5

STATIONERYHang Can D4

SWEETSHang Buom D4

TOYSLuong Van Can D4

WEDDING SERVICESHang Than C4

WINTER CLOTHINGSHang Da D4

HanoiMap


Bach Thao Park

Chi Lang Park

Thuy Le Park

Long Bien Market

Dong XuanMarket

HanoiPalace

St. Joseph's CathedralCua NamMarket

Ho Chi MinhMausoleum

Ho Chi MinhMuseum

Vietnam FineArts Museum

Quan ThanhTemple


Hanoi Train Station

Long Bien Train Station

Kim MaBus Station

Vietnam National Academy of Music

Ngoc KhanhBus Station

OperaHouse

Linh Quang Lake

Van Chuong Lake

Giang Vo

Lake

Thuy Le Lake

CAU LONG BIEN

CAU CHUONG DUONG

AU CO

DOC VAN

LAC

LONG

QUA

N

Nguyen Hoang Ton

Nhat

Chie

u

Quang Ba

Xuan La

Quang An

Tay Ho

Dang

Tai

i

Ngoc Van

Xuan Dieu

Nuoc Phan Lan

Ve Ho

NGHI TAM

YEN PHU

TRAN QUANG KHAI

TRAN KHANH DU

TRAN HUNG DAO

LE D

UAN

TON

DUC

THAN

G

TRAN HUNG DAO

HOANG H

OA TH

AM

HOANG HOA THAM

Ngoc ThuyNgoc Thuy

Yen Phu An Thanh 1

An Duong

Nghia Dung

So 1

So 9

Pho Duc ChinhCh

au L

ong

Hung

Vuo

ng

Dang

Tat

Nguy

en B

ie u

Tran VuQuan ThanhThuy Khue

Ven Ho

Ven Ho

Thuy Khue

Thuy Khue

Vong Thi

Trich Sai

Trich Sai

Yen N

inh

Hang

Bun

Hoe Nhai

Hang Dau

Gam Cau

Hang Bo

Hang Non

Tong D

uy Tan

Cua Nam

Nam Ngu

Tho Nhuom

Hang Quat

Duong Thanh

Hang Trong

Hang Gai

Nha Chung

Ly Quoc Su

Phu Doan

Hang Bac Hang MamHang Tre

Hang Voi

Hang Be

Hang Thung

Dinh LietTa Hien

Gia Ngu

Cau GoDinh Tien Hoang

Dinh Tien Hoang

Lo Su

Le LaiLe Thach

Dinh Le Le Phung Hieu

Bach Dang

Bach Dang

Le Thanh Tong

Trang Tien

Dang Thai Than

Cau

Dat

Chuong Duong Do

Ham Tu Quan

Phuc Tan

Phuc TanNguyen Tu Gian

Nguyen Khiet

Bao Linh

Vong Ha

Phan

Huy

Chu

Pham Su Manh

Co Ta

m

Pham Ngu Lao

Trang Tien

Trang Thi

Ba Tr

ieu

Quan

g Tr

ung

19 -

12Hoa

Lo

Quan

Su

Da Tu

ong

Tho Nhuom

Ngo Van So Ham Long

Hang

Bai

Nguyen Thai Hoc

NGUYEN THAI HOC

KIM MA

KIM MA

LA THANH

CAU GIAY

DUON

G BUO

IDU

ONG

BUOI

HOANG QUOC VIET

LAC L

ONG Q

UAN

NGUY

EN C

HI TH

ANH

LIEU

GIAI

VAN

CAO

Phan

Boi

Chau

Yet

Kieu

Tran

Binh

Tron

g

Tran Quoc Toan

Hai Ba Trung

Hai Ba Trung

Ly Thuong Kiet

Ly Thuong Kiet

Ngo

Quye

n

Le Thai To

Hang CotHang Luoc

Hang

Can

Hang Ngang

Ma M

ayHang Da u Ly Thai To

Tran Nguyen Han

Tong Dan

Hang Dao

Hang Duong

Hang Ma

Hang DaQuan Su

Au Trieu

Bat

Su

Phun

g Hu

ng

Ngo Tram

Hang Bong

Nguy

en Tr

i Phu

ong

Hoan

g Di

eu

Doc

Lap

Chua Mot Cot

Le Hong Phong

Van M

ieu

Quoc Tu Giam

Cat Linh

An Trach

Hao

Nam

Vu Thanh

Nui Truc

Tran Huy Lieu

Ngoc Khanh

Linh

Lan

g

Phan Ke Binh

Duon

g Qua

ng Ha

mQu

an Ho

a

Quan

Hoa

Nguy

en D

inh H

oan

Phun

g Ch

i Kien

Dong Quan

Doi Can

Doc

Ngu

Doi Nhan

Vinh P

huc

Doi Can

Doi Can

Ngoc Ha

Ngoc Ha

Son TayVan Phuc

Van B

ao

Kim Ma Thuong

Nguyen Cong Hoan

La Thanh

Thanh Cong

Lang

Ha

Nguyen Hong

La Thanh

DAO TAN

Pham Huy Thong

Chua Lang

Nguy

en V

a n N

goc

Cao Nam

Nui Truc

Ong

I ch K

h iem

Dinh Cong Giang

Van

Minh

Dien Bien Phu

Tran Phu

Tran Phu

Nguy

en C

anh

Chan

Khuc

Hao

Trinh

Hoa

i Duc

Dang

Tran

Con

Ly Va

n Phu

c

Giang

Vo

Doan Thi Diem

Bich

Cau

Hoang Van Thu

Cao Ba Quat

Nguyen Khuyen

Thuo

c Ba

c

Hang Chieu

Hang Buom

Cua

Bac

Nguyen Khac Nhu

Pham Hong Thai

Truc Bach

Tu Ho

a Cong

Chua

Thanh

Nien

Co Xa

An Xa

Phuc Xa

Tan Ap

WestLake

Hoan KiemLake

Truc BachLake

Hang Can

Cha Ca

Nha Tho

Nguyen Khanh Toan

3 4 5

TAAAAAAAAAAAAACACCACCACCACoAooAooAooAooAonAnnAnnAnnAnnAngAggAggAggAggAg CACCACCACCAChAhhAhhAhhAhTAT Y HOY HOY HOY HOY HOY HOY HOY HOY HOY HOY HOhY HOhhY HOhhY HOhuY HOuaY HOaaY HOaaY HOaaY HOaAY HOAAY HOAAY HOAAY HOAAY HOAAY HOAAY HOAAY HOAAY HOAgAgY HOgAg CACY HOCACCACY HOCACCACY HOCAChAhY HOhAhhAhY HOhAhhAhY HOhAhhAhY HOhAhhAhY HOhAhuAuY HOuAuuAuY HOuAuuAuY HOuAuuAuY HOuAuaA aY HOaA a

BA DINHBA DINHBA DINHBA DINHBA DINHBA DINHBA DINHBA DINHBA DINHBA DINHBA DINHBA DINHBA DINHBA DINHBA DINHBA DINHBA DINHBA DINHBA DINHBA DINHBA DINHCBA DINHCCBA DINHCCBA DINHC

NBA DINHNNBA DINHNNBA DINHNgBA DINHggBA DINHggBA DINHggBA DINHggBA DINHgoBA DINHooBA DINHooBA DINHocBA DINHccBA DINHccBA DINHcHBA DINHHHBA DINHHHBA DINHHHBA DINHHHBA DINHHaBA DINHaaBA DINHaaBA DINHaaBA DINHaaBA DINHa

LONG BIENONG BIENONG BIENONG BIENONG BIENONG BIENONG BIENONG BIENONG BIENLONG BIENL

DONG DONG DONG DONG DONG DONG DONG DONG DONG DONG DONG DONG DONG DONG DONG DONG DONG DONG DONG DONG DONG DONG TDONG TTDONG TTDONG TODONG OODONG OODONG ONDONG NNDONG NNDONG NNDONG NNDONG NNDONG NNDONG N DDONG DDDONG DDDONG DUDONG UUDONG UUDONG UC

DONG

CC

DONG

CC

DONG

C

HDONG HHDONG HHDONG HaDONG aaDONG aaDONG aoDONG ooDONG ooDONG oNDONG NNDONG NNDONG NNDONG NNDONG NaDONG aaDONG aaDONG amDONG

mm

DONG

mm

DONG

m

DDDDDAAAAADADDADDADDADDAD HHHHHHHHHH1H11H11H11H11H19H99H99H99H99H9-H- 1H11H11H11H11H12H22H22H22H22H2

gHggHggHg OOO

a

O

an

OnnOnnOngOggOggOgTOTTOTTOTrOrrOrrOrTrTOTrTTrTOTrTTrTOTrT

uOuuOuuOunOnnOnnOngOggOggOgAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMTAN KIEMTTAN KIEMTTAN KIEMTrAN KIEMrrAN KIEMrrAN KIEMrTrTAN KIEMTrTTrTAN KIEMTrTTrTAN KIEMTrT aAN KIEMaaAN KIEMaaAN KIEManAN KIEMnnAN KIEMnnAN KIEMngAN KIEMggAN KIEMggAN KIEMggAN KIEMggAN KIEMgCAN KIEMCCAN KIEMCCAN KIEMCCAN KIEMCCAN KIEMCTCTAN KIEMTCTTCTAN KIEMTCTTCTAN KIEMTCT

oAN KIEMooAN KIEMooAN KIEMooAN KIEMooAN KIEMo

T

o

TAN KIEMT

o

T

TAN KIEMTTAN KIEMTTAN KIEMTaAN KIEMaaAN KIEMaaAN KIEMaTaTAN KIEMTaTTaTAN KIEMTaTTaTAN KIEMTaTmAN KIEMmmAN KIEMmmAN KIEMm

T

AN KIEMTT

AN KIEMTT

AN KIEMTr

AN KIEMrr

AN KIEMrr

AN KIEMrTrT

AN KIEMTrTTrT

AN KIEMTrTTrT

AN KIEMTrT a

AN KIEMaa

AN KIEMaa

AN KIEMan

AN KIEMnn

AN KIEMnn

AN KIEMng

AN KIEMgg

AN KIEMgg

AN KIEMg TAN KIEMTTAN KIEMTTAN KIEMTiAN KIEMiiAN KIEMiiAN KIEMieAN KIEMeeAN KIEMeeAN KIEMenAN KIEMnnAN KIEMnnAN KIEMnnAN KIEMnnAN KIEMnnAN KIEMngAN KIEMggAN KIEMggAN KIEMg

iAN KIEMiiAN KIEMiiAN KIEMi HAN KIEMHOAN KIEMOOAN KIEMOOAN KIEMOOAN KIEMOOAN KIEMOOAN KIEMOOAN KIEMOrOrAN KIEMrOrrOrAN KIEMrOrrOrAN KIEMrOruOuAN KIEMuOuuOuAN KIEMuOuuOuAN KIEMuOunOnAN KIEMnOnnOnAN KIEMnOnnOnAN KIEMnOngOgAN KIEMgOg

Tay Ho Weekend Market

Quang AnMarket

Hang Than

Hang Vai

Hang Ga

Hang Chao

Hang Khoa

i

Dong Xuan

Hang Dieu

Hang

Don

g

LeatherMarket

Ly N

am D

e

Luong Van Can

Dang

Dun

g

PHAN DINH PHUNG

Dam Tri

ogN 78

ha

oT

CCHHUONNNGCH

anaanUQQUUQMarketMarket

Q

MarketuaaXXuuaaXXuCCCCCo annnnnggggggg MarketMarketMausoleum

a

M

TTTThhhhh

aaannnggg

BA DINH

Vietnam National Academy of MusicAcademy of MusicAcademy of Music

Laaa

DuDDuuong

aaannnnn

ruc Bach

HHooaann

ggDi

eug

HHooann

Phuhhuu

Vietnam FineArts MuseumArts MuseumArts Museum

aaooao

eeeee


rain Stationrain Station

AAAN QQNN QQ

m

gggg

ooooHHHHH

Hoan KiemLake

QQQ

TTT

HHHHaaang

B

AN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEMAN KIEM

SSSooo999

Leooooo

gooooBorain Hanoi Hanoi Train Train THanoi Hanoi Hanoi AAANNNNN

166 | Word March 2016 | wordvietnam.comPhoto by Kyle Phanroy

Ho Chi Minh CityBusiness Buff / Body and Temple / The Gym Diaries / Bar Stool / Amazing Grapes / Know Your City /

Top Eats 1 / Top Eats 2 / A World of Good

Photo by Kyle PhanroyPhoto by Kyle PhanroyPhoto by Kyle PhanroyPhoto by Kyle PhanroyPhoto by Kyle Phanroy

HCMCEssentials

BAKERIES

ABC BAKERYBAKERY & CAFÉ223 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1phamngulao.abcbakery.coBaguettes, croissants, pizza, cakes, muffins, donuts and brownies, this bakery and café all in one is a popu-lar stop for those heading through the Backpacker District. Online ordering available.

BREAD TALKCHAIN BAKERY106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 2 Cao Thang, Q3; Vivo City, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7breadtalkvietnam.comA Singaporean bakery chain that is vying for the Vietnam cake and bread market. Pro-duces Asian-friendly patisse-ries and cakes in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Has eight locations and counting.

HARVEST BAKINGAMERICAN BAKERYharvestbaking.netWith a production facility in Thu Duc, Harvest Baking fo-cuses on both the retail and non-retail trade, cooking up the best American-style bak-ery products in the city. Has an excellent home delivery service. Check the website for details.

L’AMOURBAKERY & CAFEHung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072lamourbakery.com.vn

TOUS LES JOURSBAKERY & CAFE180 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1; 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1; 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3; Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7; 17/14 Le Thanh Ton, Q1touslesjoursbakery.comThe background of this Ko-rean bakery chain makes

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046sbghcm.org

M M M

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

ANUPA ECO LUXELEATHER & JEWELLERY9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394anupa.netMonday to Sunday, 9am to 8pmThis centrally located unique boutique has been con-verted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewel-lery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers.

BAM SKATE SHOP SKATEWEAR / STREET174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn

BLUE DRAGON SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084

GINKGO VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755; 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928ginkgo-vietnam.comQuality, original, Vietnam-themed tees are the show-piece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Viet-namese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

IPA-NIMA BAGS & ACCESSORIES77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701 ipa-nima.com

LITTLE ANH-EMBABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506In addition to a varied selec-tion of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other ac-cessories.

L’USINE LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIESFirst floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565lusinespace.comExclusive labels, elegant and

SHOPPING MALLS

DIAMOND PLAZA34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel:

(08) 3825 77509am to 10pm

Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food

Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 03839.30am to 10pm


Court

PARKSON PLAZA35-45 Le Thanh Ton,

Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 76369.30am to 10pm


Court

SAIGON CENTRE65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08)

3829 48889am to 9pm


Court

SAIGON SQUARE77-89 Nam Ky Khoi

Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm

Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories,

Electronics

VINCOM CENTER70-72 Le Thanh Ton,

Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 99999am to 10pm


Court

ZEN PLAZA54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1

Tel: (08) 3925 03399am to 10pm


Court

interesting reading. Estab-lished in 1996, in 2004 they opened in the US, 2005 in China and 2007 in Vietnam. French-styled with an Asian touch, the bare-brick décor makes this a popular joint. Has over 25 locations in Vi-etnam.

VOELKERBAKERY39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066voelker-vietnam.comFrench–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signa-ture passion–fruit tart is a must try.

M M M

BOOKSHOPS

FAHASAVIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE40 Nguyen Hue, Q1; 60-62 Le Loi, Q1fahasa.comSelling up a good selection of English language books — in a range of reading areas — this multi-storied bookshop also does stationery, toys and a range of related prod-ucts. Has a good selection of ESL texts.

LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7858Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam. Only books written in French are for sale, cover-ing for all ages and tastes. A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon.com

PNCVIETNAMESE LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE2A Le Duan, Q1; 2nd Floor Parkson Center, 35-45 Le

Thanh Ton, Q1pnc.com.vnAlthough there are some English-language texts in this modern, well laid out bookstore, the focus here is on all things Vietnamese. Worth checking out, thought, for the occasional gem.

M M M

BUSINESS GROUPS

AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AMCHAM)New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.amchamvietnam.com

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AUSCHAM)2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912auschamvn.org

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM (BBGV)25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430 bbgv.org

CANADIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (CANCHAM)Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754 canchamvietnam.orgOpen to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Com-merce aims to create an ef-fective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.

NORDCHAM17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922nordcham.com

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045pbgvn.com

PHOTO

BY K

YLE

PHANROY


DON’T BE SO SCARED IN 2016 BUSINESS BUFF

BY SHANE DILLON

In my lifetime I have seen the mainstream media morph into an almost non-stop fear generating machine. It would appear that weekly

there is a new threat to my imminent safety. I work in the health insurance industry and I have a fairly solid understanding of risk to your well-being, and while it is good advice to heed the wise words I heard in a movie recently — “Hope for the best, prepare for the worst” — this month I have collected some facts that prove the world is not as scary as some would want you to think it is.

OverpopulationScared of overpopulation? You shouldn’t be — the whole world, all 7 billion of us, could �t into the size of Texas with a population density about the same as New York City.

Terrorism If you live in the US you are more likely to be shot by a toddler with a gun than a terrorist.

Computer Viruses You are more likely to get a computer virus from visiting a church website than any other by a factor of three. This is thought to be because church sites rely on volunteers for maintenance who often have limited if any online security skills.

Heights There are many examples of people falling from great heights and surviving. Vesna Vulovic fell over 10km to earth after the plane she was travelling in fell apart. Despite hitting the ground at terminal velocity she survived and recovered from her injuries. She holds the world record for greatest fall without a parachute and is still alive today.

Sharks According to Freakonomics more people were killed by vending machines last year than by sharks. Falling coconuts also killed more people worldwide than shark attacks.

Serving in the armed forcesAt least for US servicemen and women, the civilian statistics are quite alarming with more people being killed inside the US each year than the total of service personnel killed in both the Iraq and Afghan wars since they started in 2001 and 2003.

Spiders In the USA, about seven people die each year from spider bites — normally

children or the elderly in remote locations. In Australia the infamous funnel-web spider, the most poisonous spider in the world, has killed exactly zero people in the last 30 years.

Dangerous AnimalsEvery year, deer kill more people than bears, dogs, wolves, sharks, alligators, bees, scorpions and spiders combined. This is because of the nature of a deer’s body and the fact that most interactions happen in car crashes with the deer ending up �ying through the windshield into the passengers.

Rats Rats are actually being trained in parts of Africa to detect landmines and will save countless number of limbs this year from their efforts.

DogsStatistically more people die from the sunshine (excessive natural heat) than from dog attacks each year.

Crazy people on the planeMore relevant maybe for us who live in Asia (and �y Vietnam Airlines), the possibility of someone actually opening the door mid-�ight is almost zero. The cabin pressure holds the doors shut so tightly that it would be impossible for someone to open the door while the plane is airborne.

TarantulasNo one has ever died by being bitten by a tarantula as the amount of venom they release is not even comparable to a bee sting. They are basically furry, eight-legged cats.

Bee SwarmsWhen you see a swarm of bees they are normally searching for a new hive and actually at their least aggressive as there are no baby bees or food supplies to protect.

Spiders In the 2011 tsunami that hit Japan, a great fear in the aftermath was the spread of malaria. An unlikely hero saved the day when all the spiders swarmed into the trees covering entire forests with their webs. Despite the scene looking incredibly scary the spiders killed off the mosquitos that were expected to multiply and spread the malaria.

Lightning Each year about 40 people are killed by lightning worldwide, compared with over 100 who die from choking on the lids of their pens.

Vampire BatsThe majority of bats don’t feed on blood, but on nectar from fruits and insects. They are actually one of the best forms of pest control and are more like bees and butter�ies of the night than something that will do you harm.

Airplane CrashesEven in the Asiana 214 �ight that crashed in 2013, 304 of the 307 survived the impact. In the highly unlikely event of a plane crash over 90% of the passengers involved normally survive. In the Air France 358 crash all the 309 people on board survived.

Shane is now fearful of coconuts and vending machines. He can be contacted hiding under his desk at shanedillon@paci�ccross.com


sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, sta-tionery and a range of vin-tage bicycles.

MANDARINATAILOR-MADE SHOES171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267

ORANGE BUDGET CLOTHING152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 26209am to 10pm

PAPAYA BUDGET CLOTHING232 Bui Vien, Q1papaya-tshirt.com

T&V TAILOR TAILORS39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556triciaandverona.com

U.BEST HOUSE TRAVEL GEAR163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588Ubesthouse.com

VESPA SHOP VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS80 Xuan Thuy, Q2Stocks a wide range of Ves-pa-inspired tidbits and mem-orabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

CORPORATE GIFTS

AMBRIJ14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364ambrij.comA one-stop-shop concept company providing market-ing services including POSM, corporate gifts and luxury ranges of business gifts from international brands like Swarovski, Cerruti 1881, Nina Ricci, Christian Lacroix, Ungaro and more. Also do event management services.

COOKING CLASSES

OVERLAND CLUB35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734overlandclub.jpThe Overland Club organises pottery classes, Vietnamese-Japanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and

AIRLINES

AIR ASIAairasia.com

AIR FRANCEairfrance.com.vn

CATHAY PACIFICcathaypaci�c.com/vn

CHINA AIRLINESchina-airlines.com

JAPAN AIRLINESvn.jal.com

JETSTAR PACIFICjetstar.com/vn/en

KOREAN AIRkoreanair.com

LAO AIRLINESlaoairlines.com

MALAYSIA AIRLINES

malaysiaairlines.com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES

singaporeair.com

THAI AIRWAYSthaiairways.com.vn

TIGER AIRWAYStigerair.com

VIETJETAIRvietjetair.com

VIETNAM AIRLINES

vietnamairlines.com

multinational cuisine days.

SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485saigoncookingclass.comLearn to cook quality Viet-namese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRESuite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349vietnamese-cooking-class-saigon.com

CRAFTS & FURNITURE

ATC FURNITUREECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3932 6455; 30A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3840 3946 atc-craft.com

AUSTIN HOMEREPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023austinhomeinteriors.comThis An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furni-ture. All products are sam-ples, so it’s limited and ex-clusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks.

CHI LAIHOME FURNISHINGS175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543chilai.comThis well-known Vietnam-ese furniture brand is a good choice for most fami-lies with its respected high-quality designs and competi-tive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spa-cious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

EM EMSOUVENIRS38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 44088am to 9.30pm


BODY TYPING BODY AND TEMPLE

BY PHIL KELLY

You have most likely heard of body-type categories before. The most common names are ectomorph, endomorph and

mesomorph. We can also go further and de�ne your type based on fuel as a muscle, mixed or sugar burner. Body types can also be categorised through hormones via being an adrenal, pituitary, thyroid or gonad type. All these different names discuss the same three to four body types.

All these types are general indications of how your metabolism, hormones, nervous system and fuel systems operate. The categories give us great insight into how your body functions; we can use this information to align your nutrition and exercise to get the best results. Types are just starting points — great points of reference to begin your plan.

It is also important to realise that all these types can actually become obese. For example, someone could be overweight but actually be an ectomorph body type. Think of these types as underlying ways our bodies prefer to work but through lifestyle, nutrition and exercise you can affect the natural tendencies of your body. Certain body types respond better to starches by burning them for fuel and others very poorly by predominantly storing them as fat. Certain types respond better to higher volume resistance workouts with minimal rest periods where others develop better gains from more intensive heavy weights with longer rest periods.

1) Ectomorph (Muscle Burner / Thyroid)This type tends to be thyroid and sympathetic nervous system (SNS) dominant with either a higher output or higher sensitivity to catecholamines like adrenaline and noradrenaline. This pro�le is linked to a fast metabolic rate and a high carbohydrate tolerance. Their “metabolic motor runs at high revs”.

They are generally tall, usually lean and have faster metabolisms. Character traits are that they generally �dget and move around a lot because their sympathetic nervous system (SNS) is dominant. If this type has become fat they generally are “wired on the inside, tired on the outside” and have an appearance of �abby fat. They trend to crave sugar, salt and alcohol. They don’t tend to do well on coffee, as it over-hypes them and can drop their blood sugar levels due to a higher cortisol response. They should replace coffee with drinks and foods that restore the SNS, consume foods high in magnesium and look

to balance blood sugar levels. An ectomorphic type is better suited for a higher starch but lower fat diet.

2) Mesomorph (Mixed Burner / Adrenal)The strength and power build. This type has no real genetic predispositions; lifestyle has the biggest impact on body fat storage. They tend to be testosterone and growth hormone dominant and thus can usually gain muscle and stay lean easily. They have no real problem with foods, have mixed cravings, however they can have issues with insulin and stress hormones. Moderate starch intake works well and usually conforms to a zone diet concept. If overweight, simply normalising diet and lifestyle issues tend to produce great results.

3) Endomorph (Sugar Burner / Pituitary)Unlike the ectomorph the endomorph metabolic speed is set to “idle”. They tend to be parasympathetic dominant and naturally less active. They have a genetic predisposition to gain weight and be resistant to fat loss. They have an appearance to be muscular and fat.

Endomorphs can do well on coffee to counter act the parasympathetic nervous system dominance. They tend to be de�cient in serotonin, GABA, dopamine and acetylcholine. Cocoa, branched-chain amino acids (BCAA), tyrosine, 5-HTP and GABA herbs are great nutrients that can really aid an endomorphic body type lose fat. They have to be very careful with dairy and fruit, eat low starch, and eat at frequent regular times.

They are a great �t for a Paleo diet where fat is prioritised over starch.

4) Gonad (female only — pear shape)Gonad types tend to gain weight on the lower body, the saddlebags on the sides of the thighs and buttocks. Oestrogen dominance and an inability to eliminate oestrogens and toxins from the body is a trait of this type. Females possess a high number of alpha-receptors in the thigh, which bind very well to oestrogens.

Gonads are sometimes more of a night owl than a morning person. They tend to have stable energy, as the day progresses their energy increases. Those that have low blood sugar or hypoglycaemia will tend to have an energy crash around 4pm.

Boosting liver function and focusing on steady and continuous detoxi�cation is important for gonads to help eliminate toxins that accumulate more easily than with others. They should consume foods containing the chemical indole-carbinol-3, which binds to oestrogens to help clear them from the body.

**********

Understanding the basic guidelines regarding how your body’s metabolism, nervous system, hormones and fuel systems operate is a great place to start. However, over time we could be a mix of these types. Nothing is set in stone and we must become intuitive, fat-loss detectives to learn what is best for our individual and unique bodies.

Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763 or at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star Fitness (star�tnesssaigon.com)


HCMCEssentials

FEELING TROPICFURNITURE & ACCESSORIES51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181Specialising in interior de-signs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement sto-rey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture ex-cept beds. Accessories are found on the level above.

MEKONG CREATIONSFAIR TRADE CRAFTS35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110mekong-creations.org

NGUYEN FRERESNIK-NAKS / CRAFTS2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 94598am to 8pm

MEKONG QUILTSHAND-MADE QUILTS1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110mekong-quilts.org

NHA XINHHOME FURNISHINGS2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115nhaxinh.com

REMIX DECO INDOOR FURNITURE222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190remixdeco.com

THE FURNITURE HOUSEHOME FURNISHINGS81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788thefurniturewarehouse.com.vn

CYCLING

FIRSTBIKE VIETNAMfirstBIKE.com.vnFirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds elimi-nate the need for training wheels or stabilisers, and support proper balance de-velopment.

JETT CYCLESOWN-BRAND CYCLING SHOWROOM384 Tran Phu, Q5; 168 Vo Thi Sau, Q3jett-cycles.comThe showroom home of Jett

Cycles, a homegrown cy-cling company with all prod-ucts designed in Vietnam. Sells up budget bicycles to high-end product, with the full range of accessories in between. Also stocks GT and Cannondale.

SAIGON CYCLESCYCLING & ACCESSORIES44 Phan Van Nghi (S51-1 Sky Garden 2), Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3114xedapcaocap.comSpecialising in Trek and Surly, Saigon Cycles is also famed for its Sunday morning rides. Sells the full range of acces-sories and also does bicycle repairs.

THE BIKE SHOPCYCLING & ACCESSORIES250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6405thebikeshopvn.comThe go-to location for all your cycling needs in District 2. Sells a range of brands in-cluding Cannondale, Jett, GT and Aluboo, as well as the full selection of accessories. Organises regular cycle rides, does repairs and rentals. Check facebook.com/the-bikeshopvn for more details.

M M M

DENTAL CLINICS

ACCADENTINTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINICKumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800accadent.com

ELITE DENTAL GROUP. 57A, Tran Quoc Thao, Q3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3933 [email protected] Elite Dental is an interna-tional and well-equipped clinic, which provides spe-cialized dental services in-cluding ALL-ON-4 Implants, ALL-ON-6 implants, dental implants, prosthodontics, Invisalign & orthodontics. Luxury design and our den-tal experts will bring you an extremely comfortable experience.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINICINTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.comGlobally renowned provider of medical assistance and in-ternational healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnam-ese dentists provide high


skilled dental service. Or-thodontics is also available.

MINH KHAI DENTAL CLINICINTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 3399

STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINICINTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 622224, Thao Dien,Q2starlightdental.netLong–established, modern clinic with French, Cana-dian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential commu-nity due to its modern and ef-fective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

WESTCOAST INT’L DEN-TAL CLINICINTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINICBen Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6777westcoastinternational.comAn international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a fo-cus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

MAPLE HEALTHCAREDENTAL & CHIROPRACTICSMd6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 (across from FV Hospital), Tel: Tel: (08) 5410 0100maplehealthcare.netSpecialising in healthcare, dental services and chiro-practic medicine, the re-cently opened Maple Health-care comes replete with the latest technology together with efficient and comfort-able service.

M M M

GALLERIES

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431cthomasgallery.comCraig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-and-coming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnam-ese art for a decade. Now has a second newer gallery

at 165 Calmette, Q1, HCMC

DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1dogmacollection.comThe home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a col-lection put together over the last two decades by art col-lector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate. Sells prints of the originals and related products.

GALERIE QUYNH65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019galeriequynh.comIn addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhib-its the work of artists from around the world. This well-established gallery supports education through talks, lec-tures and publications.

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4441baotangmythuattphcm.vnSet in one of the finest remaining buildings of colonial-era Vietnam, this multi-storey museum houses collections spanning centu-ries of Vietnamese art. Has regular exhibitions.

SAN ART48/7 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6294 7059san-art.orgSan Art is an independ-ent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young art-ists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists / curators to organise or col-laborate on exhibitions.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET GROCERY & DELI16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332; 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630Annam-gourmet.comAttractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and of-fers probably the best selec-tion of cheese and cured meats in town.

CLASSIC FINE FOODSGROCERIES & IMPORTERNo. 17, Street 12 (perpen-dicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105classicfinefoods.comSupplier for the city’s five–star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and veg-etables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

MEATWORKS BUTCHERYBUTCHERS1 Street 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2565meatworksasia.comFocusing on the retail trade, the meat at this Australian-managed butcher comes pre-prepared and, if you so wish, pre-marinated. Sells up some of the best import-ed meats in town together with homemade sausages, free-range products and excellent Australian grass-fed steak.

PHUONG HAGROCERS58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318A small yet amazingly well-stocked store that puts many a supermarket in this country to shame. As well as a dizzying selection of imported foods, also sells frozen meat and fish, fruit, vegetables, herbs, spices and a wide selection of dairy products.

THE WAREHOUSEWINE SHOP15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826One of the busiest wine re-tailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock im-ported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

VEGGY’SGROCERS & DELI29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526Courtesy of a farm in Dalat, Veggy’s retails some of the best quality fruit and veg available in the city. Also has a wide selection of im-ported food products includ-ing USDA beef, the same beef served up at El Gaucho.

HCMCEssentials

CRICKET

ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON)Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353richard.car [email protected]

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON)Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 [email protected]

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON)Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244 [email protected]

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB)Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 [email protected]

SACC (SAIGON AUS-TRALIA CRICKET CLUB)Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 [email protected]

SSC (SR I LANKA SPORTS CLUB)Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 [email protected]

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB)Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 [email protected]

VIETNAM CRICKET AS-SOCIATION (VCA)Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 [email protected]

FOOTBALL & RUGBY

AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALLTel: 0937 683 230vietnamswans.com

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGONgauloisdesaigon.com

OLYMPIQUE SAIGONContact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.

[email protected]

SAIGON RAIDERSSaigonraiders.com

SAIGON RUGBY CLUBRMIT University, 702 Nguy-en Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7 [email protected]

SAIGON SAINTSsaigonsaints.com

SPORTS — GENERAL

HASH HOUSE HARRIERSsaigonhash.com

RANGERS BASEBALL [email protected]

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUEthesidl.com

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUEsaigonsoftball.info

SAIGON SHOOTERS NET-BALL CLUBsaigonshootersnetball.blogspot.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACAD-EMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100saigonsportsacademy.com

SQUASHThe Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176thelandmarkvietnam.com

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 [email protected]

ULTIMATE FRISBEERMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7Saigon-ultimate.com

X–ROCK CLIMBING7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794xrockclimbing.com

SPORTS


HAIRDRESSERS, SALONS & SPAS

AVEDA HERBAL SPAVilla 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 [email protected]

CAT MOC SPA63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926catmocspa.comAimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, par-affin and waxing services.

CONCEPT COIFFURE48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625Conceptcoiffure.vnHair stylist and colourist spe-cialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon.

FAME NAILS SALON3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827famenails.com

GLOW SPA129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368glowsaigon.comModern and bright down-town spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy, includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.

HAIR BARCONTEMPORARY SALON68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREE-PHONE) 1800 1108hairbar.vnA unique themed hair salon where stylists use no scis-sors but styling equipment only, giving female clients the opportunity to get their hair done on the run. Of course, they have to look fabulous, too. Fortunately this is one of Hair Bar’s spe-cialities. Check the salon out on Facebook: facebook.com/hairbarvn.

INDOCHINE SPA69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188Indochine-spa.com.vnIndochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmos-phere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Custom-ers are pampered by quali-fied therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

JASMINE45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737Jasminespa.vnSpa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments.

QUYNH BEAUTY SALON104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321A District 2 favourite, this is the salon to head to for any-thing from massage to hair-cuts, hairwashing to nails. Cheap prices, too.

SPA TROPIC79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 5575spatropic.comSpa Tropic is a stylish bou-tique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.

HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS

AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINICCHIROPRACTOR161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930www.acc.vnACC provides effective chi-ropractic, physiotherapy, acupuncture and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems without the need of drugs or surgery.

AMERICAN EYE CENTER5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759americaneyecentervn.comAmerican Eye Center is lo-cated in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care ser-vices to Adults and Children by an American Board-cer-tified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments. Cosmetic proce-dures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available.

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI)FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366cmi-vietnam.comThis French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gyne-cology, psychotherapy, oph-thalmology, paediatrics and acupuncture.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMCINTERNATIONAL CLINICDiamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848; 95 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2000vietnammedicalpractice.comFull–service 24–hour health-care provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergen-cies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out–patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

FV HOSPITALINTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333Emergency: (08) 5411 3500fvhospital.comInternational hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Viet-namese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially ma-ternity care.

FV SAIGON CLINICINTERNATIONAL CLINIC3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167fvhospital.comState–of–the–art medical cen-tre located in District 1. Ex-perienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors pro-vide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consulta-tions.

HANH PHUC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITALINTERNATIONAL HOSPITALBinh Duong Boulevard, Th-uan An District, Binh DuongTel: (0650) 363 6068hanhphuchospital.comClaiming to be the first Sin-gapore-standard hospital in Ho Chi Minh City, this institu-tion based on the outskirts of town is gaining a growing reputation for service and treatment. Specialises in pro-viding healthcare to women and children. Has a clinic at 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1


HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTEREASTERN MEDICINE432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINICINTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424internationalsos.comThe world’s leading provider of medical assistance and in-ternational healthcare offers primary health care, diagnos-tic services and 24/7 emer-gency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINICSKIN CARE / COSMETICSLevel 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 6999sianclinic.comThe Australian and Cana-dian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of sk-incare medical therapies to treat problems by an expe-rienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRESKIN CARE / COSMETICS99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1990stamfordskin.comStamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical andaesthetic skin treatments. Their international derma-tologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITALEASTERN MEDICINE187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINICINTERNATIONAL CLINIC79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545victoriavn.comWell-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, di-gestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a member-ship programme and coop-erates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

HCMCEssentials

INSURANCE

BLUE CROSS VIETNAM4th Floor, Continental Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9908bluecross.com.vnBlue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in provid-ing health and travel insur-ance to people and busi-nesses who call Asia home. Their reputation for trans-parent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insur-ance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.

IF CONSULTINGIBC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362insuranceinasia.comIndependent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs. For emergencies call 0903 732365

LIBERTY INSURANCE15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 1800 599 998libertyinsurance.com.vnInternational insurance firm providing the full range of services to the individual — car insurance, travel insur-ance, health insurance, home insurance and much more.

NOAH JAMES INSURANCE AGENCYMobile: (1) 617 676 7858noahjamesinsurance.comSkype: jp.globalA full service broker offer-ing expatriates and local Vietnamese customized so-lutions from highly rated in-surers for life, health, travel, as well as speciality cover for student travel, medevac, in-ternational marine, extreme athletics and adventure. For details contact: [email protected]

TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 5367ten-pac.comA full-service insurance bro-ker offering a wide range of insurance solutions from the best local and international providers. Recommendations are based exclusively on cli-ent needs.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (ABCIS)Saigon South Campus 1 (Pri-mary & Secondary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36; Saigon South Campus 2 (Founda-tion Stage & Early Primary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36theabcis.comRated as ‘outstanding’ by British Government Inspec-tors, academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8% of schools worldwide. ABCIS is accredited by CIE, AQA, the Education Development Trust and members of CO-BIS and FOBISIA. Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS)Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West High-way), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 4040aisvietnam.comThe Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class cam-puses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cam-bridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Di-ploma Programme (DP).

ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL PRE-SCHOOL @ AN PHU1st and 2nd floor, Somerset Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6287 0804etonhouse.vn/schools/hcmcFollowing an international curriculum for children aged 18 months to six years, in the early years, an Inquire-Think-Learn approach is followed, inspired by the Reggio Emilia Project of Northern Italy. It is a play-based, inquiry model in which children co-con-struct their learning in close, respectful collaboration with their teachers. This helps us provide an environment where children take respon-sibility for their own learn-ing, allowing them a head start in life.

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS)246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335bisvietnam.comInspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British style cur-riculum for an international student body from pre-school

DANCENTER53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490dancentervn.comChildren and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780helenekling.com

INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700Inspirato.edu.vn

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691Minhnguyenpiano.com

PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679paa.com.vnHas a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes.

PIANO CLASSESTel: 01225 [email protected]

SAIGON MOVEMENTTel: 0987 027 [email protected]

SAIGON SEAL TEAM55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279

SAIGON PONY CLUB38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360Saigonponyclub.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100saigonsportsacademy.comInternational coaches provide training in soccer, basket-ball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.

TAE KWON DOBP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149

VINSPACE6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846vin-space.com

KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS


to Year 13. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam.

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL7 Road 23, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3456cis.edu.vnThe first Canadian interna-tional school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certi-fied teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to cre-ate a student-centred learn-ing environment promoting academic excellence. Has a newly built campus.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100ishcmc.comHCMC’s most established international school offers three International Bacca-laureate programmes for students from two to 18 years old. ISHCMC will be launching a new secondary campus in 2017, featuring Vietnam’s first Innovation Center, a 350-seat profes-sional theatre, NBA-sized basketball courts and a 25m competitive swimming pool.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY — AMERICAN ACADEMY16 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100aavn.edu.vnISHCMC — American Acad-emy is a U.S. curriculum secondary school for stu-dents aged 11 to 18 years old. Early university credits, a 1:1 University Counseling Program, and an extensive EAL program set our grad-uates on the road to 100% acceptance rate at overseas universities and a US$1 mil-lion scholarship fund.

based upon the British cur-riculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and Interna-tional Baccalaureate. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gym-nasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE15 Street 12, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081saigonkidskindergarten.comSKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environ-ment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers en-sure personal attention for all students.SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS)78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901ssis.edu.vnOffers an American-style ed-ucation (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high-school, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–round-ed education at all levels.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLResidential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827saigonstarschool.edu.vnSupported by the Cam-bridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning envi-ronment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs.

SMARTKIDS1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236smartkidsinfo.comThis international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly envi-ronment.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223tas.edu.vnAccredited by the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (WASC), TAS repre-sents 20 nationalities and provides an American-based curriculum with rigorous performance standards and

KIDS CLUB SAIGON79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 5944kidsclubsaigon.comEarly childhood centres in Phu My Hung offering crea-tive play-based programmes for children ages two to five. Known for unique facilities, experienced staff, high-quality learning resources, and small class sizes.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 2222 7788/99issp.edu.vn Vietnam’s only international school offering a U.S. cur-riculum for children aged 18 months to 11 years old. With 100% English language immersion, a library con-taining over 13,500 English books and more than 60% of students achieving above grade level English, ISSP students are well prepared for secondary school at ISH-CMC or ISHCMC - American Academy.

EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS)730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Q2, Vietnam, Tel: (08) 7300 7257eishcmc.comThe European International School offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum. EIS is a Nobel Tal-ent School and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning, in-quiring and caring for others.

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639montessori.edu.vnAiming to encourage chil-dren’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS of-fers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities.

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7, Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122renaissance.edu.vnRenaissance is an Interna-tional British school provid-ing an inclusive curriculum


PART 5 THE GYM DIARIES

Sometimes when you try to do something you hit a brick wall. After four months of trying to get into shape, Owen Salisbury has done just that.

Yet he’s not prepared to give up

Life is a funny old thing — a politer way of saying that whirlwinds of crazy and awful can descend without warning. Put simply,

getting the shit kicked out of me opened my eyes to a very real health risk I may face, and one that men around the world are facing in ever-greater numbers.

After four months of working out, not as regularly as I should, without moderating my diet as I should, yes, and with an unplanned two-week hiatus, I have not seen all the types of results I should. We’re all different, and we all develop at different rates.

And yet this is worrying. Luckily, trainer Dan knew all about it; he’d been through something similar.

When Things Don’t Go Right, Learn WhyLet’s take stock again. After these four irregular months of lifting weights three days a week, I am putting up double, even triple the weight I did when I began. My endurance is up — I keep up with Dan’s workouts. My sleep is better; my chronic shoulder injury doesn’t hurt.

All good so far, right? This is about where you should be, if a bit on the lower side of expected gains.

What hasn’t happened are the things I most wanted when I began. My health is still crap. I am sick as I write this; I have spent six of the last seven months battling one infection after another. I still feel

awful; my energy levels are still low, even my ability to concentrate has taken a hit.

Hell, even the fat-loss and muscle building have slowed. After four months, people cannot tell I go to the gym regularly by sight. This is, in a word, humiliating.

Or, to use the word Dan tells me: “Testosterone.”

The Decline and Fall of TestosteroneSpeci�cally, low levels of it — something that affects millions of men in the US alone, and is getting worse. Since the 1980s, according to a study by Dr. Thomas Travison of the New England Research


PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

BY OWEN SALISBURY

Institutes in the US, the average level of testosterone dropped in US men by about 1% per year. In other words, an American man in the 1980s had roughly 30% more testosterone on average than an American man today. No conclusive cause has been found, and studies in other countries show similar results.

“Testosterone is essentially the essence of manhood,” Daniele says when he brings it up.

Mr. TWe all know about testosterone in a vague way. After age 30, it declines by about one percent a year. For some men, levels can drop precipitously. Injuries to the testicles

can do it, as can head injuries, diseases like HIV/AIDS and tuberculosis (neither of which I have, thank you.)

It can also decline for no reason. The effects can be harsh.

“Without it a man cannot exercise his masculinity and will fall prey to extended bouts of depression, lethargy, emotional instability, irritability, decreased sexual desire and performance, attention de�cits as well as a complete loss of joie de vivre,” says Daniele.

It’s frightening how well the list of symptoms �t. Not completely, but enough. If your life doesn’t change when you hit the gym and work on your diet, keep looking.

One More PossibilityAny number of other conditions could cause them, but it’s one more possibility to tick off as I try to get my quality of life back. That’s my goal. Do things thoroughly where your health is concerned.

So, I’m looking into HRT at the ripe old age of 37.

Will it work? Do I need it? Who knows. I thought the gym alone would work, yet here I am, after four months, still looking for answers. The lesson, of course; don’t give up.

I’ve got two months left in this experiment. There’s time to turn this franchise around, especially if the testosterone tip pays off.


a variety of academic offer-ings. Runs advanced place-ment courses and university credit courses through their partnership with Missouri State University, as well as an Intensive ESL Program for English Language Learners.

M M M

PROPERTY RENTALS

CHUM’S HOUSE121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237

EASY SAIGONTel: 0932 112694easysaigon.comThe Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apart-ments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome.HAPPY HOUSE32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916

NAM HOUSE48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700namhouse.com.vnExpert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Sup-ports professional services and aftersales.

RESIDENT VIETNAMUnit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855residentvietnam.com

SNAP32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282snap.com.vnOwners of Snap Café in Dis-trict 2, Snap offers a web–based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advi-sory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs.

THE NEST216/4 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0938 580800thenesthousing.comWell–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing prop-erties available for rent and sale, orientated towards ex-pats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

M M M

MOTORBIKES

CHI’S CAFÉRENTALS185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446chiscafe.com

Probably the best-known motorbike rental joint in town with over 200 bikes and a range of models and makes. Rents by the day or by the month. Call or check the website for details. Also does visa extensions.

SAIGON BIKE RENTALSTel: 0972 [email protected] out a range of mod-els including Honda Waves, Yamaha Nouvos, Classicos, Luvias, SYM Attilas and Excels. Call for details and prices.

SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRERENTALS / CLASSIC SCOOTERS77a Hanoi Highway, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 013690saigonscootercentre.comJust relocated to its new home in District 2, Saigon Scooter Centre is more than just the place to go for all your classic scooter needs. Also does accessories, qual-ity imported helmets and bike rentals.

M M M

RECRUITMENT & HR

ADECCO VIETNAM11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430adecco.com.vnAdecco is the world leader in human resources solutions. Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, mar-keting & events, IT, engineer-ing & technical, and office.

HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888hr2b.com

G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD.Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B-2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC.vieclambank.com

VIETNAMWORKS.COM130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373vietnamworks.comThe best-known recruitment website in Vietnam. Post you’re the position you’re looking for and wait for the responses. You’ll get many. Also a good site for expat jobseekers.

RELOCATION AGENTS

AGS FOUR WINDS (VIET-NAM)5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071agsfourwinds.comA global leader in internation-al removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

ALLIED PICKFORDS12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Build-ing, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220alliedpickfords.comWith more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the world-wide leaders in removal ser-vices. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITYUnit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799asiantigers-mobility.com Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move man-agement specialists, with ser-vices including door-to-door moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations.

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS1st Floor, Saigon Port Build-ing, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655jvkasia.comFocused primarily on the in-ternational and local move-ment of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field.

LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322logicalmoves.netSpecialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065santaferelo.comWith over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers lo-cal and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration servic-es and records management. Email [email protected] for info.

SERVICED APARTMENTS

DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCESNo 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 5678the-ascott.comDiamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fully-furnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apart-ment comes with a fully-equipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888intercontinental.com/sai-gonresAdjacent to the InterConti-nental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spa-cious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area.

NORFOLK MANSION17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111norfolkmansion.com.vnOffers a wide choice of luxu-rious and modern furnished accommodation with atten-tive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sau-na and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111Riverside-apartments.comOver four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apart-ments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from down-town by high-speed boat shuttle.

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288sherwoodresidence.comSherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apart-ment property where mod-ern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service.

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Ha-noi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922somerset.comSomerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi

HCMCEssentials

TATTOO ARTISTS

With tattoos becoming increasingly popular,

over the past few years there has been an

increase in the number of tattoo studios around

the city.Customers have the

choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on

offer in the studios or bringing in their own

design. Most of the studios offer body-piercing services as

well. Pricing depends on size and style.

EXILE INK608

57 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6675 6956

exileinkvietnam.com

SAIGON BODY ART

135 Cong Quynh, Q1Tel: 0908 443311

saigonbodyart.com

SAIGON INK26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1

Tel: (08) 3836 1090tattoovietnam.com

SAIGON TATTOO31B Nguyen Du, Q1

saigontattoo.net

SAIGON TATTOO Group

81 Bui Vien, Q1Tel: 0908 573339

xamnghethuat.vn

TATTOO SAIGON128 Nguyen Cu Trinh,

Q1Tel: 0938 303838

tattoosaigon.com

TATTOO TAM BI209 Bui Vien, Q1Tel: 0919 034383

xamphunnghethuat.com


Minh City serviced residences combine the space and priva-cy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate liv-ing and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

SPORTS & FITNESS

CHIARA SQUINZITel: 01278 163620laholista.comExperienced health coach and corporate & school well-ness coach. Can help clients achieve health and weight goals through an innovative holistic approach of food, body and mind. Email [email protected] for info.

CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTREBOXING / FITNESS49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947 771326cyril-and-you.comThis sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril, features the same personalised mentorship Cyril's clients love. Includes yoga, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes. Tuesday to Fri-day every week at 5pm. All activities are safe and run by Cyril himself.

NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)GENERAL FITNESS34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672nutrifort.comA well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excel-lent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.

SAIGON HASH HOUSE HARRIERSsaigonhash.comSunday 2pm sharp, Cara-velle hotel. Bus out to the county with a walk, usually 4km and a run around 8km. VND150,000 for locals and VND220,000 for expats. Bus, water, snacks and freeflow beer after the run.

SHERATON FITNESSHEALTH CLUB & GYMLevel 5, Sheraton Saigon Ho-tel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828sheratonsaigon.com

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTREHEALTH CLUB & GYM17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555A small but well-appointed gym with regular fitness classes, a steam room and sauna. Has a small but con-sistent membership.

STAR FITNESS GYMHEALTH CLUB & GYMManor Apartments, 91 Nguy-en Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Ha-noi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and best-equipped gyms.

THE LANDMARK CLUBGYM, POOL, SQUASHThe Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176thelandmarkvietnam.comIn addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas.

VERTICAL ACADEMYCLIMBING GYMTruc Duong, Q2, Tel: 0966 920612facebook.com/vertical.acad-emy.vn

A bouldering gym and pro climbing wall replete with a showroom and café offers something that this area has never experienced before, a place to climb. Has a number of climbing sections, runs training courses and also sells daily climbing passes for VND150,000 (for a 10-visit pass pay VND1 million).

VETERINARY CLINICS

ANIMAL DOCTORS INTERNATIONAL 1 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2. (08) 6260 3980animaldoctors.vnOffers the very highest levels of compassionate, compe-tent and professional veteri-nary medicine and surgery to all pets in Ho Chi Minh City with international vet-erinary surgeons. Upholding international standards, the team works tirelessly to help clients with the support of a dedicated surgical suite, digi-tal X-Ray and comprehensive diagnostic facilities.

VIETNAMESE CLASSES

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771vietnameselanguagegarden.com

VLS SAIGON45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168vlstudies.comOffers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper el-ementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, com-position or a 6-hour survival crash course.

SPORTS GARMENTS

SCORE-TECH1870/3G An Phu Dong 3, Q12, Tel: (08) 3719 9588score-tech.netApparel company offer-ing personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelo-na. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.

CINEMAS

Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters

and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such

as CGV, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer

the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon.

For those partial to more esoteric and

independent �icks, smaller outlets such as

Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese

and European efforts.

CINEBOX240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10

Tel: (08) 3862 2425cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA13th Floor, Diamond

Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1Tel: (08) 38227897

3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho,

Q7Tel: (08) 3775 2521

lottecinemavn.com

GALAXY CINEMA230 Nguyen Trai, Q1

Tel: (08) 3920 6688116 Nguyen Du, Q1Tel: (08) 3823 5235

246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh

Tel: (08) 3849 4567galaxycine.vn

IDECAF31 Thai Van Lung, Q1

Tel: (08) 3829 5451idecaf.gov.vn

CGV CINEMASLevel 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 2222; Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6297

1981; Level 2, Thao Dien Mall, 12 Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 3000; Level 5, SC VivoCity,

1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 3775 0555; Level 7, Hung Vuong

Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 2222 0388

cgv.vn


SNUFFBOX BAR STOOL


Hidden away on the first floor of a dilapidated residential block in old Saigon, Snuffbox offers a unique space. Making the most of its

modest square footage, this newly opened watering hole boasts a well-balanced mix of upmarket antique furniture, velvet ropes and industrial urban design.

For anyone who read Raising the Bar (July, 2015), it’s an aesthetic reminiscent of Melbourne institution the Gin Palace. Focused on a well-stocked bar, a private mezzanine level adds to the loft-feel of the venue, and the whole place is mood-lit by feature walls and intricately designed ceiling lights.

Keen to make a name for themselves in the drinks department, the �rst cocktail that came was the boulevardier (VND130,000). A sophisticated bourbon-based sipper cut with Campari and sweet vermouth, it delivered an earthy smokiness and zesty �nish. It was

also presented with the �air you’d expect from Diageo Vietnam Top 5 bartender Tony, well known all over town.

Nailing ItThis was followed up by the Smoky Milky (VND180,000), which featured the same bourbon base over a Talisker single malt scotch, pineapple juice, ginger, lime juice and honey. If it sounds good, be assured that it tastes even better. After these were polished off, �nally came the gin �zz (VND150,000) which was simplicity done well, and a perfect way to leave us wanting more.

Sitting back in the comfortable couch, Snuffbox is a classy mix of colour and textures that will put you in the mood for a relaxing good time.

Certainly that’s the hope of co-owner Charles Carlyle, a corporate wellness expert from Miami by day, and burgeoning venue

owner by night. His concept is to create a speakeasy vibe with chilled tunes and high-quality drinks. With theme nights giving a nod to the jazz aesthetic and the Roaring 20s, he’s con�dent that he and his team have created something people will be happy to seek out.

“There are a lot of late night spots,” Charles says, “but none that any of my friends want to go to.”

This venture is about changing that, as well as ‘nailing’ the best classic cocktails in town.

“That’s something we want to be known for,” Charles says. On top of that, they’re also looking at brewing their own beers off-site, and may consider bringing in some absinthe later on. — Jon Aspin

SnuffBox is at 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, HCMC. It is open every day from 2pm to 4am. You can �nd them online at facebook.com/snuffbox


HCMCOn The Town

DELIVERY

BEN STYLETel: 0906 912730

www.vietnammm.com/

restaurants-ben-style

CHEZ GUIDOTel: (08) 3898 3747

www.chezguido.com

DOMINO’S PIZZATel: (08) 3939 3030www.dominos.vn

EAT.VNwww.eat.vn

HUNGRYPANDA.VN

www.hungrypanda.vn

KFCTel: (08) 3848 9999www.kfcvietnam.

com.vn

LOTTERIATel: (08) 3910 0000www.lotteria.vn

PIZZA HUT (PHD)Tel: (08) 3838 8388

www.pizzahut.vn

SCOOZITel: (08) 3823 5795

www.scoozipizza.com

TACO BICHwww.tacobich.com

VIETNAMMMwww.vietnammm.com

BARS & CLUBS

2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR)TOP-END INTERNATIONALPark Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234saigon.park.hyatt.comInternational décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.

ACOUSTIC BARLIVE MUSIC6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars. Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists.

APOCALYPSE NOW DANCE / NIGHTCLUB2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124apocalypsesaigon.comAn institution and the kind of place you end up drunk after midnight. Famed for its not-so-salubrious clientele, this two-floor establishment with DJs and occasional live music is also famed for its hotdogs, which are served up in the garden terrace out back.

BIA CRAFTCRAFT BEER BAR90 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2588biacraft.comAs craft beer continues to take over watering holes around Ho Chi Minh City, so a bar dedicated to all things ‘craft’ and ‘real ale’ seems like a pretty sensible idea, right? Well, it is. Only small, but with wooden tables per-fect for sharing, both on tap and by the bottle, Bia Craft sells up a delectable range of the good stuff. Looking for Ti-ger? Go take a hike. Also has a decent food menu.

BLANCHY’S TASH RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293blanchystash.comA multi-storey bar with décor and atmosphere more akin to such an establishment in New York or London. Has a reputation for bringing in big-name DJs. And when we say big, we mean big. Check their website for details.

BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452

With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent Hue-Brewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City).

BROMA, NOT A BARCOCKTAILS / ROOFTOP41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838Broma’s medieval rooftop-cocktail lounge conglomera-tion is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/random moments. A sophis-ticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Check out their bun bo Hue-inspired cocktail.

BUDDHA BAR RESTOBAR7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345Buddhabarsaigon.comJust across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys.

CHAMPION SPORTS BAR SPORTS BAR45-47 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 4202A recent addition to the sports-and-watering-hole drinking scene, Champion is located in the Backpack-ers’ area and shows all the major televised sports. Also has a pool table, darts, tasty Western and Vietnamese food, great cocktails and ice cold beer. Western managed, wonderful local staff. #BeA-Champion.

CHILL SKYBARTOP-END BAR & TERRACERooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372chillsaigon.comFor the spectacular views alone, Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix top-end, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering holes in the city.

D2SPORTS BAR55, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453What does the Thao Dien area of Saigon seriously lack? A sports bar. And this is the Al Fresco Group’s answer to a distinct shortage hole in the market. Sleek lines, modern décor, elegant and spacious, dartboards and of course, lots of large screens to watch the televised sports. Check

out their daily food specials.

EON HELI BARLOUNGE BARLevel 52, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750eon51.comBreathtaking views require a vantage point and EON Heli Bar is by far the highest spot in Saigon for a spectacular cityscape, appealing drinks and a vibrant ambience. Night live music and DJs.

GAME ONSPORTS BAR115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898gameonsaigon.comA fresh feel thanks to the large space and light-wood tables makes this Australi-an-influenced watering hole a popular bar for televised sports, pub food, darts, pool and more.

HOA VIENCZECH BREWHOUSE28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605hoavien.vnThe original microbrewery, this large, wooden-pan-elled, brass-kegged Czech Brewhouse is as popular as it was 15 years ago when it was first opened. Does a great food menu to ac-company the home-brewed beer.

ICE BLUE EXPAT BAR 24 Hai Ba Trung, Q1One of this city’s longest run-ning watering holes — and the original home of the darts league — has recently reopened in its new prem-ises. Naturally, darts are still key here, with each of the bottom three floors having elements devoted to this most pub-friendly of sports.

LA HABANA CUBAN / MUSIC BAR6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180lahabana-saigon.comCuban-themed bar and res-taurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few Ger-man favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener schnitzel. Nightly live music and regu-lar salsa classes.

LA FENETRE SOLEILFRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnam-ese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets.

LAST CALLAFTERHOURS LOUNGE59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122lastcallsaigon.comIf you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wher-ever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters.

LE PUB INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Gets busy at weekends with a clientele made up of hip, young Vietnamese and the occasional foreigner.

LONG PHIFRENCH / RESTOBAR207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine.

MAY RESTAURANT & BARLOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686mayrestaurant.com.vnAn international comfort-food menu mixes with excellent cocktails and an extensive winelist at this attractive, international bar and restaurant. Dine at the bar or upstairs in the restau-rant space.

NUMBER FIVEEXPAT BAR44 Pasteur, Q1The original expat bar, this institution of a place gets packed every night thanks to its drinking hall atmosphere, attractive bar staff and Ger-man food menu. Has regular live music.

OMG!FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BARTop Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1A contemporary and attrac-tive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon.

O’BRIEN’S IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:


(08) 3829 3198irish-barsaigon.comThis Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely ap-preciated for its excellent interna-tional fare, large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great piz-zas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls.

ONTOP BARNovotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city, houses an upscale, contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip ambience.

PEACHESCURRY PUBS57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South water-ing hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more. A popular local haunt.

PHATTY’SAUSTRALIAN / SPORTS46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796 phattysbar.comFrom its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the go-to, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing eve-rything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an ar-ray of pub grub favourites.

PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILLSPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANTC0.01 Riverside Residence C, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: (08) 6274 1520facebook.com/PitchersPMHLocated in the heart of Phu My Hung, this spacious restobar with an affection for showing televised sports has a family friendly edge thanks to its kids play area. Does a great grill menu and of course, lots of very cold beer for those devel-oping a thirst in the Saigon heat.

RUBY SOHOCARTOON BARS52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900A Phu My Hung mainstay thanks to its cartoon décor and light but fun ambience. Has a reasonable food menu to complement the drinks.

SAIGON SOUL POOL PARTYPOOL & DAY CLUBNew World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1saigonsoul.comThe ultimate in poolside entertain-ment, Saigon Soul is defined by its great party atmosphere. Boom-ing house music, cold drinks and beautiful people. What better way to spend a Saturday? Runs every Saturday from late November until mid May.

SAIGON OUTCAST EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198Saigonoutcast.comUp-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini-skate park and graffiti space. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and markets.

SAIGON RANGERARTS & ENTERTAINMENT5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 7300 0559facebook.com/saigonrangerAspiring to be a focal point for artistic activities, the space at Saigon Ranger has been estab-lished to create encounter and dialogue between different forms of art. Boasts concrete floors, dark wooden furniture, quirky wall de-signs and a stage for live music and other types of performance.

SAIGON SAIGON BARLIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 19-23 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999caravellehotel.comThis iconic bar is a great place to watch the sun go down over the city and relax for a few drinks with friends. Has live entertainment six nights a week courtesy of resident Cuban band, Q’vans, from 9pm Wednesday to Monday.

SHRINE BARLOUNGE BAR61 Ton Thap Thiep, Q1shrinebarsaigon.comShrine creates a drinking and din-ing experience in a temple-like atmosphere. Inspired by Bantay Srei, a temple from the ancient Angkor kingdom, the walls are covered in statues depicting ancient Khmer gods and kings. With ambient lighting and town tempo music, here it’s all about good cocktails and an even better atmosphere.

SEVENTEEN SALOONTHEMED MUSIC BAR103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007seventeensaloon.com.vnWild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here.

STORM PDANISH / INTERNATIONAL5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738Stormp.vnNamed after the Danish artist Storm P, this long-running bar is the home of Saigon’s Scandinavian community thanks to its laid-back atmosphere and excellent food

menu. A good place to watch the live sports.

THE CUBE BARHIP RESTOBAR31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 369798facebook.com/thecubesaigonA sleek, industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin.

THE OBSERVATORYBAR, ART & DJ SPACE5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite Elisa Boat)Known for its late night parties and focus on international art-ists, Observatory is now at a bigger space in District 4. Complete with a new balcony overlooking the Saigon River and an even larger sound system, The Observatory is a key node in the Asian under-ground music circuit.

THE ORIENTSPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1facebook.com/theorientbarsaigonAn attractive, spacious, brick-wall interior, a long bar, high table seat-ing, big screens, a pool table and live music. A great venue for a few beers and more.

THE SOCIETYGRILL AND LOUNGE BAR99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3999facebook.com/�eSocietyHCMDesigned as a Laneway-style restobar, the kind of place found in Hong Kong, London, New York or Central Melbourne, thanks to its indoor and outdoor ambience, The Society brings dining and drinking to a new level. Phenom-enal cocktails, steaks, grilled fare and seafood make this a place to go for drinks, a full-blown meal or a mixture of both.

THE TAVERNEXPAT & SPORTS BARR2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix, with BBQs available for parties and events.

VESPER GOURMET LOUNGEINTERNATIONALLandmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698facebook.com/vespersaigonA sophisticated yet down-to-earth

cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle light-ing and one of the best spirit selections in town. Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks.

VINYL BARMUSIC & SPORTS BAR70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623vinylbarsaigon.comA small but popular bar with all the shenani-gans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League.

WINE BAR 38CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.

WINE EMBASSYCONTEMPORARY WINE BAR13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827wineembassy.com.vnA two-storey, contemporary-designed wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at rea-sonable prices. Has an excellent food menu to complement the old and new world wines.

XUCAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468xusaigon.comThis iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a


ABC: ANYTHING BUT CHARDONNAY AMAZING GRAPES

BY JIM CAWOOD

Made in France. Alcoholic Volume, 13%

I was talking with a customer the other day and when I asked what wine she would like to drink, she proudly proclaimed that she was a member of

the ABC club. “I drink anything but Chardonnay,”

she said de�antly. This is not the �rst time I have encountered this kind of proud hatred for one of the world’s most noble grapes, but it reminded me of how polarised wine trends can be. Not so long ago drinkers from all corners of the globe could not get enough Chardonnay, yet now you are deemed a pariah for drinking it. How did this happen? I, for one, love Chardonnay.

Chardonnay is the white grape variety of the Burgundy region in France (with

one or two exceptions). The greatest, most expensive white wines in the world from Burgundian sub-regions such as Chablis, Meursault, Montrachet and Corton are made from it. With the exception of perhaps Riesling and Semillon, it produces wines that can age longer than any other white variety. It is relatively easy to grow and thus is found growing in vineyards all around the world.

A Malleable GrapeThe fact that Chardonnay is an easy grape to grow is ultimately what has led to legions of ABC devotees. Chardonnay vines have been cultivated in Burgundy for more than 1,000 years, but they are fairly recent in countries like Australia, New Zealand, Chile and the US. In fact, the �rst commercial bottling of ‘chardy’ in Australia was only released in 1971 by Tyrrell’s. Many other wineries soon followed suit and the race to emulate the great wines of France was on.

Chardonnay is classi�ed as a non-aromatic variety which means it is very neutral with basic fruit �avours like peach, apple, pear, grapefruit, nuts and �gs. Although it is neutral, it is malleable and often requires quite intensive winemaking, such as time in oak barrels to add structure and tannin, barrel fermentation to add complexity, and malolactic fermentation to add a creamy or buttery element.

As Chardonnay started to take off in the new world, winemakers sought inspiration from the great wines of Burgundy. They saw

that there they used a little oak, malolactic and barrel fermentation to make very interesting and complex wines. Struggling to achieve this, they followed the notion that if you use a little, then a lot would surely reap a wine of great character. They were right; it did. The problem was that they had too much �avour and character, so that nobody could �nish a bottle.

By the mid-1990s Chardonnay had become big, fat, oaky, buttery, rich and round. Not surprisingly people soon got sick of buying bottles that they could not �nish and Chardonnay suffered a massive backlash. This was compounded by the arrival on the world stage of the tropical fruit bombs that were Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc.

A RennaissanceThings however have changed. New World winemakers have learnt from their mistakes and toned down their styles. They have learnt to harness the fruit and subtle complexity that Chardonnay can offer, without heavy-handed manipulation in the winery. Now it is much more common to see descriptors like elegant, restrained, subtle and �ne used to describe Chardonnay wines.

Chardonnay is well and truly on the comeback trail. The wines are food-friendly, cellar worthy and very interesting to drink. The members of the ABC club should be getting worried because I feel that soon the ABS (Anything But Sauvignon Blanc) club may soon have more members as wine trends constantly evolve. But it is all a bit silly. If you like it, drink it and don’t worry about what other people think.

Louis Jadot ‘Couvent Des Jacobins’ Chardonnay 2013This is a fantastic entry-level offering from one of the world’s great white winemakers. Sourced from vineyards across the region, it bursts with bright, fresh peaches ‘n cream �avours. Very judicious use of oak adds a little complexity and length to the palate. A beautiful wine for a roast chicken at home with good friends.

Jim Cawood is a trained sommelier and is presently man-at-the-helm at District 2 restaurant, Lubu

“Chardonnay is well and truly on the comeback trail. The wines are food-friendly, cellar worthy and very interesting to drink”


range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be en-joyed in its richly decorated interior. Regular DJ nights.

M M M

CAFES & ICE-CREAM

(A) CAFE15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701Settle into the Javanese-style interior and enjoy pos-sibly one of the best brews in Saigon. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip, siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker.

AGNES CAFEDALAT COFFEE HOUSE11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excel-lent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, home-made desserts. Offers up tasty breakfasts, lunch and dinner all the way through until 9pm.

BANKSY CAFE1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699 [email protected] small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960s-era apartment building. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories.

CAFE THOAI VIEN159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657cafethoaivien.comVeer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink, it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAFINTERNATIONAL157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1; Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1coffeebean.com.vnLarge portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contempo-rary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to sat-isfy any sweet tooth.

DECIBELINTERNATIONAL79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115Decibel.vnTrendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials.

GUANABANA SMOOTHIESCONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 824830guanabanasmoothies.comAn American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy, nutricious smoothies that avoid the lo-cal obsession with sugar and condensed milk. A pleasant, contemporary environ-ment adds to the theme.

HIDEAWAYINTERNATIONAL41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222Hideawaycafe-saigon.comHidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courtyard, the ample soft, sofa seat-ing renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is well-priced and maintains a creative flair.

I.D. CAFÉCONTEMPORARY CAFE 34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910Idcafe.netCentrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers cas-

ual café dining with a wide variety of food and bever-ages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.

L’USINE CONTEMPORARY / FRENCHFirst Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703lusinespace.comFrench-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced cof-fee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back. Second location on Le Loi.

M2C CAFE44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2495facebook.com/m2ccafeAt M2C (Modern Meets Culture), everything gets a touch of modernity. From the rich menu of Vietnam-ese food and drinks, shows immense local culture, done with a modern flare. Be seen here at one of the latest pop-ular joint in town.

MOCKINGBIRD CAFE4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0935 293400facebook.com/mockingbird-coffeeSitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex, Mock-ingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos, or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation.

PLANTRIP CHATEA ROOM8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung, Q1Tel: 0945 830905Tea, tea and more tea, all in a contemporary, quirky en-vironment. At Plantrip Cha customers go on a sensory journey to experience the tastes and smells of teas from across Asia, Europe, America and the Middle East.

THE LOOPHEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385Low-key yet nice-on-the-eye décor helps create the café-style atmosphere at this Eu-ropean-influenced café and restaurant. Sells excellent coffee and if you like bagels, here you’ll be in heaven.

THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 0938 383330themorningcafe.com.vnHave a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the win-dow and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. With a cup of well-brewed cof-fee, accompanied by some background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.

THE OTHER PERSON CAFE2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0909 670272facebook.com/�eOtherPer-sonCafeFancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed cus-tomized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe.

THE PRINT ROOMCONTEMPORARY CAFE 158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Com-fortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuc-cino costs VND40,000.

THINGS CAFE1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205facebook.com/thingscafeFeel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet cor-ner tucked away in an Old Apartment. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time, or quality

conversations held over a drink or two.

M M MEAT

3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631The original, on-the-table barbecue restaurant still goes strong thanks to its rooftop atmosphere, excel-lent service and even better fish, seafood and meats. An institution.

27 GRILLGRILL-STYLE RESTAURANTRooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372chillsaigon.comBesides the spectacular views, the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw, with steaks and other international grill-style fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere. Subtle lighting and an ex-tensive wine list make up the mix.

AL FRESCO’SINTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424 alfrescosgroup.comThe downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Aus-tralian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environ-ment with efficient, friendly service to match. Also has an excellent garden-style branch at 89 Xuan Thuy, Q2.

ASHOKANORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372; 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177ashokaindianrestaurant.comLong-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.

HCMCOn The Town


THE ACCIDENTAL BOULEVARD

KNOW YOUR CITYKBY ED HAYSOM

Nguyen Hue, one of the most successful military commanders in Vietnamese history, and an emperor of the Tan Son Dynasty, has

a major street in almost every Vietnamese city named after him. Yet the one in Ho Chi Minh City is perhaps the best known.

The street had very prosaic beginnings and perhaps only now is worthy enough to be named in his honour.

When the French invaded Vietnam in 1859, their choice of city in Southern Vietnam was in�uenced by the strategic location of a �shing village known as Prey Nokor and the Bat Quai Citadel close by. They named it Saigon — it is believed this was a derivation of the colloquial name given to the area by Chinese settlers.

The French military built the city to urban design principles introduced by Haussmann in Paris in 1853. The boulevards of Saigon were formed for military as well as other reasons: connecting the military quickly with the port and the interior; wide enough to prevent insurrections blocking them; dealing with a contemporary theory that disease was spread by “bad air”, and providing ceremonial places and grandness exemplifying the French empire.

Nguyen Hue was not one of those early boulevards, as it didn’t connect the military with their headquarters at the port. Instead, it was a waterway. Its canal allowed goods to be conveyed from the merchant port up to the high ground of the French

civic centre. It also consisted of two roads straddling the canal.

The early French settlement used existing canals for transportation and added some of their own. For health and safety reasons, they were almost all closed including, in 1867, a portion of Nguyen Hue near Le Loi that had become polluted. On doing so the width of Nguyen Hue was found to be too small to retain two roads plus add buildings between them, so it became one road and renamed as a single street, Charner Boulevard. The rest of Charner closer to the port was �lled in later in the 19th Century.

Rebirth and RenovationNguyen Hue’s DNA has always been mercantile, and as the city grew, buildings connected in the street with the port and its business �ourished. It was never seen as a major shopping precinct like Dong Khoi, which was then and still is the prime retail street of Saigon. Major hotels clustered around Dong Khoi rather than Nguyen Hue.

Instead, Nguyen Hue became a grand but relatively underutilised thoroughfare, which only came into its own during the celebrations for Tet.

The decision to pave the centre of the street was likely made for a number of reasons, one being its relatively low traf�c volumes. Nguyen Hue’s advantage was that it could provide the city with some signi�cant open space because its closure would not signi�cantly affect the traf�c network.

However Nguyen Hue’s size and proportion breaks many rules of current urban planning; too wide, too long and too hot. When it was announced it was heavily criticised. “Why not do that in grander streets?”

Yet it has been an enormous success.The reopening has created a completely

new precinct in the city — a motorbike-free space and a promenading space; people �ock to it in the evenings, and it has retained and enhanced its ceremonial use at Tet.

This success has induced a remarkable renaissance in refurbishment along its edges as well as the streets leading on to it. So many businesses and restaurants fronting Nguyen Hue have started the process of upgrading and new restaurants are emerging. It is a model for the rest of the city.

Plans are being made to link Nguyen Hue with Thu Thiem peninsula on the other side of the river — a big ask — but nevertheless the renaissance of the riverside esplanade will further enhance Nguyen Hue’s position as a signi�cant and important part of the urban fabric of Ho Chi Minh City

A happy accident indeed that a utilitarian waterway could become such an important street.

Emperor Nguyen Hue would be proud.Ed Haysom is the general director of Mode

/ Haysom Architects and is based in Ho Chi Minh City. You can contact him on [email protected]

Nguyen Hue in the late 19th century when it was still a canal


AU LAC DO BRAZILBRAZILIAN CHURRASCO238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157aulacdobrazil.comAu Lac Do Brazil is home to the city's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sau-sage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eat-as-much-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompa-niments from the salad bar. Best washed down with red wine or a caipirinha or five.

AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 auparcsaigon.comConsistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popu-lar park-side Le Duan loca-tion with classic cream and green-tiled décor.

BABA’S KITCHEN NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661babaskitchen.inThis pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcon-tinent, from dosas and va-das through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos. Has a deliv-ery outlet in District 2.

BLACK CATAMERICAN13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055blackcatsaigon.comCreatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more,

all served up with a Califor-nian edge at this small but popular two-storey eatery close to the river.

BAHDJA2nd Floor, 27 Le Quy Don, Q3Tel: 0122 763 [email protected] just above the Thai restaurant Spice, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authen-tic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediter-ranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Alge-rian style. Best experienced in a group, this pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambi-ence is matched by the own-ers’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscous-based dishes. Has a lovely semi-outdoor terrace area.

BLANCHY STREETJAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICANThe Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japa-nese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. All complemented by fresh, con-temporary decor and a leafy terrace out front.

BOAT HOUSE AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790A revamp has seen this riv-erside restaurant get a new management and a new menu — think American-style burgers, sliders and Tex-Mex together with soup and salad and you’ll get the idea. Ex-cellent nachos and frozen margaritas.

BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGONINTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592 boomarang.com.vnAustralian themed but Sin-gaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating spe-cializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment.

CAFÉ IF VIETNAMESE FRENCH38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vi-etnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries.

CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502Chiscafe.comThis affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, build-your-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnam-ese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service.

CIAO BELLANEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329 saigonrestaurantgroup.comNew York-style Italian restau-rant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pas-tas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting.

CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE 16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311A small, homely Vietnamese-

owned Thai restaurant that over the past decade has quite rightly gained a strong local and expat following. Try their pad thai — to die for.

CORSOSTEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368norfolkhotel.com.vnAlthough a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eat-ery make for a quality bite. Decent-sized steaks start at VND390,000.

ELBOW ROOM AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1Tel: (08) 3821 4327elbowroom.com.vnThe comfort food on of-fer at this striking US-style diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains.

EL GAUCHO ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2090; Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909elgaucho.com.vnA themed eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sau-sage, skewers, burger dish-es and everything that can come off a grill. Slick service, a good wine menu, and cara-mel vodka teasers at the end of the meal. Probably serves up the best steak in town.

EON51 FINE DININGTOP-END EUROPEAN / ASIANLevel 51, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750eon51.comSituated on level 51 of the most iconic building in town, Eon51 Fine Dining offers a unique fine dining

experience accompanied by unparalleled 3600 pictur-esque views of Saigon. The sky-high restaurant proffers the taste of Europe in Asia, orchestrated from the finest local foods and top-quality imported ingredients.

GANESH NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 [email protected] ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly ser-vice.

HOA TUC CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab sal-ad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

HOANG YENPAN-VIETNAMESE7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101; The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304If you’re looking for mid-range, aircon Vietnamese restaurants that just seem to do every dish perfectly, then Hoang Yen really is the place to go. The atmosphere may be a bit sterile, but its amply made up for by the ef-ficient service and excellent cuisine. Now with a number of restaurants around town.

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Finan-cial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066hogsbreathcafe.com.vnMixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar

HCMCOn The Town


ELEVEN CAFÉ TOP EATS

Starting life as a café serving coffee, drinks and pastries, Eleven Café last year revamped itself as a dining destination by hiring a chef from a

�ve-star hotel, promising vibrant, creative fusion cuisine.

And certainly, their menu is unusual, their presentation dazzling, their prices reasonable, and their location is quite central.

Their chef — a Master Chef Vietnam who prefers anonymity — moonlights as many chefs do planning menus for other restaurants. The resulting selections gleam with culinary creativity.

Menu FeverMy girlfriend and I immediately ordered a mango parfait (VND75,000) and frozen yoghurt; crunchy puffed rice and chunks of sweet mango never tasted so good. We also got a banana espresso (VND55,000), an interesting combination, but not as successful as the parfait.

We started dinner with a salad of rocket and cilantro over green tea-smoked beef (VND120,000) before moving onto the tom yum soup topped with baked puff pastry (VND195,000) perhaps the most unlikely and successful combination of the night. The

buttery puff pastry dissolved into the creamy tom yum broth and merged with the spicy chilli and lemongrass tartness.

For main courses, we debated between the braised lamb shank with puréed curried cauli�ower (VND265,000) and the roasted beef tenderloin with succulent marrow cubes and tamarind sauce over mashed sweet potato (VND295,000) before �nally choosing the beef.

For the other main course, the roasted duck breast with duck spring roll, baked apple and lemon-leaf salad (VND215,000) was the obvious winner, as well as being one


PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER

of their most remarked-upon dishes online.One thing I truly enjoyed about Eleven

Café is the chef’s clear attempt to promote healthy eating and regional ingredients. Yes, the beef is Australian and so is the lamb, the duck is probably Thai — but all the veggies? All those lovely spices? Pure Southeast Asia.

As for healthy eating, note the lack of high-glycaemic index foods like rice and potatoes. Try the puréed veggies instead, and don’t be surprised when you’re scraping the plate for every last bite. We were even inspired to skip dessert for once.

A Success, With Some ReservationsThis is not to say Eleven Café is perfect. Their menu is innovative, yes, but it also smacks of unreached potential. My girlfriend and I wondered if this was where the unnamed chef brings his works in progress, a living lab to �eld-test new ideas.

Because as tasty as the food was, it struck us as incomplete. We both agreed the salad needed cheese, that the beef needed salt, pepper and something more to bring the tenderloin’s �avour to its rightful height.

Most of the dishes, however, succeed. They

look beautiful, they taste good, textures and �avours combining in a balanced, thoughtful and occasionally wild way.

Eleven Café is a fun break from endless burgers and slices of pizza — or pho and bun bo Hue, for that matter — a reasonably-priced spot to try something a bit different while appreciating the view below.

As for the coffee and pastries Eleven Café still sells, I’m assured they’re tops, too. — Owen Salisbury

Eleven Café is located at 29 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, HCMC at the corner of Le Thanh Ton, and is open from 7am to 11pm


HCMCOn The Town

atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.

INAHOSUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326 A sushi bar needs a good chef, and the chef-owner of Inaho is one of the best. Sit downstairs at the low-key bar or upstairs in the private VIP rooms. Either way, this is one of the best sushi and sashimi joints in town.

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931 Alfrescosgroup.comAlthough a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent ser-vice, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks.

KABIN CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 marriott.comOffers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an el-egant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bo-nus of views over the Sai-gon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000.

KOH THAICONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423Modern Thai fusion restau-rant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuc-cinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

KOTO TRAINING RESTAURANTCONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 9357The restaurant associated with the KOTO vocational training school. All the staff — from bar tenders and waiting staff through to the chefs — come from disadvan-taged backgrounds and are being trained on the jon in hospitality. Serves up tasty Vietnamese cuisine, to boot!

L’OLIVIER FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.comExuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team.

LA CUISINE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882lacuisine.com.vnThis intimate, open-kitch-ened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediter-ranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list.

LE CORTO CONTEMPORARY FRENCH5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0671facebook.com/LeCortoOpen for lunch and set din-ner, this beautifully designed restaurant and bar seamless-ly mixes contemporary and with classic. With a menu cooked up by reputed chef Sakal Phoeung, and with a contemporary twist to tradi-tional French fare, this is a place to enjoy the luxuries of fine cuisine and even finer wine.

LE JARDIN CLASSIC FRENCH31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed gar-den setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.

LION CITY SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371 lioncityrestaurant.comFriendly, authentic five-storey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry.

LOVEATMEDITERRANEAN29 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6260 2727loveat.vnLocated bang opposite the Bitexco Tower, Loveat serves up three floors’ worth of Mediterranean cuisine mixed in with continental favourites like moules frites. A great place for dinner, cocktails and wines in a contemporary Saigon atmosphere.

LU BUCONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371luburestaurant.comDrawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Ori-ent, this contemporary, Aus-tralian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on whole-some, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list sup-plements the excellent fare. Has petanque on the terrace.

LUONG SON PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330 A typical Vietnamese-style quan nhau, this fan-cooled downtown eating and drink-ing haunt is famed for two things: it’s on the table, grill-it-yourself bo tung xeo (marinated beef) and oddi-ties such as sautéed scor-pion. A great place to take out-of-town guests.

MAD HOUSECONTEMPORARY CAFE, BAR, RESTAURANT6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4009facebook.com/madsaigonSet over a pool in a leafy, tropical garden, the beautiful rustic décor is matched by

a darkwood, aircon interior. Subtle lighting and an atten-tion to details is matched by some of the best contempo-rary cuisine in the city, all with a European influence. Also has an extensive wine list, a good selection of im-ported beers and a happy hour.

MARKET 39 INTERNATIONAL BUFFETGround Floor, InterContinen-tal Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999intercontinental.com/saigon

MAY RESTAURANTINTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 [email protected] Casual yet stylish, May places international-style wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. Subtle light-ing, comfortable seating, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this mul-ti-floored restaurant and bar. Check out their set lunches and happy hour.

MEKONG MERCHANT INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478 [email protected] The rustic looking, banana-leaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobble-stoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakery-style Bistro out front.

MONSOONPAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies.

NAM GIAO HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996namgiao.comIf you want to take friends, relatives or people out of town to eat Hue-style street food in a hygienic yet down-to-earth environment, Nam Giao is the place. Not only is it well-priced, but the bun bo Hue, bun thit nuong, com hen, banh bot loc and other such dishes are excellent.

NINETEENINTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.comOne of the top three buf-fet restaurants in town. Although the selection is small, the meats, fishes and seafoods are all fresh, and everything you eat here is quality.

OSAKA RAMENJAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7If you fancy dosing out on ra-men and soba noodles, then Osaka Ramen is noodle soup heaven. A typically Japanese aircon environment mixes bar-style seating with booths and private dining. Open late.

PACHARAN SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. At-tractively decorated in warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish.

PENDOLASCOPAN-ITALIAN87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8181; 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 282pendolasco.vnOpening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area, this trattoria-style Ital-ian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Has a second branch in District 2.

PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILLSPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANTC0.01 Riverside Residence C, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: (08) 6274 1520facebook.com/PitchersPMHLocated in the heart of Phu My Hung, this spacious restobar with an affection for showing televised sports has a family friendly edge thanks to its kids play area. Does a great grill menu and of course, lots of very cold beer for those developing a thirst in the Saigon heat.

PIZZA 4P’S EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838 pizza4ps.comThis quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion piz-za parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari sea-weed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties. P

HO

TO

S B

Y K

YLE

PH

AN

RO

Y


POP FRIESCALIFORNIAN-STYLE FRIES14M Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel: 0938 754251; 273 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0938 754851A street food eatery concept that originates from Los Angeles and New York, and born from a passion for shar-ing, here it’s all about the loaded fries. The potatoes are twice-cooked and come piled high with a range of in-ventive toppings. Funky dé-cor and long benches make up the mix.

PROPAGANDACLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO21 Han Thuyen, Q1Part of the group that in-cludes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an at-mosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints.

QUAN BUI TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241; 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality, chicly designed eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery. One of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town.

QUAN UT UTUS-STYLE BARBECUE168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500facebook.com/quanututIt’s a no-brainer, right? Amer-ican-style barbecue in a con-temporary Vietnamese, quan nhau-style setting. Of course it is, which is why Quan Ut Ut is constantly packed with

grill-obsessed diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue and Platinum pale ale served on tap.

RACHA ROOMCONTEMPORARY THAI RESTOBAR12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08) 6253 7711theracharoom.comThe Racha Room delivers Thai accented Pan-Asian cuisine with a focus on high quality ingredients. Racha features a large selection of spirits at a seated bar and high table to ensure drinking along with eating remains central to the experience. The current and future of Asian-inspired drinking and dining is right here at the Racha Room.

REFINERY FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONALThe Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon.comA slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bis-tro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium re-finery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buf-fets.

RELISH & SONSGOURMET BURGER BAR44 Dong Du, Q1, Tel (08) 6291 8187relishandsons.comRelish & Sons burgers are lovingly made with a healthy food philosophy in mind and fresh high quality ingredi-ents. The beef patties are 100% Australian grass-fed; the buns are made with a reduced sugar and salt con-tent. Burger relishes such as chutneys are all made in-house from scratch.

SAFFRONPAN-MEDITERRANEAN51 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8358Sporting food from around the Mediterranean rim, this compact and cozy eatery with pots hung from the ceil-ing is a popular choice with expats and tourists alike. Reservations advised.

SAIGON CAFÉINTERNATIONAL / BUFFETLevel 1, Sheraton Saigon Ho-tel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828sheratonsaigon.comIf you like your buffet selec-tions to be big, then here it is gargantuan, with every type of option under the sun. A great place to catch up on your seafood addiction or to pig out over a Sunday brunch.

SAN FU LOUCANTONESE KITCHENGround Floor, AB Building, 76A Le Lai, Q1

Tel: (08) 3823 9513sanfulou.comOpen until 3am, this popu-lar, contemporary Cantonese dining hall mixes contempo-rary with traditional, in a space that takes Chinese dining in Saigon to a new level. And if you like your dim sum, look no further.

SEOUL HOUSE KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297 [email protected] longest running Korean restaurant in town, with all the Koreans moving out to the hinterland, the clientele here are mainly Vietnamese. For-tunately the food preparation remains traditional. An excel-lent place for group dining.

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221shangpalace.com.vnFeaturing over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events.

SKEWERSINTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798 skewers-restaurant.com Simple, unpretentious Greek-influenced, international cui-sine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the sa-ganiki, a range of dips, mou-saka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.

SHRICONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought out and romantic venue, with excellent food.

STOKERCONTEMPORARY STEAKHOUSE44 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08) 3826 8691stokerwoodfiredgrill.comOne of the world’s oldest culinary techniques — grill-ing over a wood fire. Stoker kitchen uses different woods to infuse foods with different smoky flavours. These tech-niques revolutionize live fire cooking by providing precise heat control through the use of a grilling surface that can be adjusted to different cooking heights above the hot coals.

SORAESUSHI SAKE LOUNGELevel 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 0938 687689soraesushi.comSet over two floors, this astonishing, no-expense-spared Japanese restaurant and lounge brings to Saigon the type of environment and ambience you’d expect of New York, Singapore, Hong Kong and Dubai. With the décor comes a modern take on Japanese fare. A place to see and be seen.


NORTH END DELI TOP EATS


Open since November 2014, North End first came into being as a village ‘providore’ of sorts, starting life supplying hungry

Thao Dien expats with imported gourmet meats and produce.

Not long after, when the deli’s owners realised that they still couldn’t get the type of sandwich that they wanted — one featuring those very same imported ingredients they were already selling, they became sandwich makers and soon hit upon success.

Similar changes have occurred along Xuan Thuy, the street North End lives on. Originally bereft of Western competition, the street has now become a food and drink hotspot for District 2 residents. Several other cafes, eateries, a well-known craft beer pub, plus North End’s neighbouring cocktail bar Aperitivo, all make the street a legitimate place to make a night of it, especially when the city seems far away.

ConsistencyUltimately, it’s the consistency of its core product that has made the eatery popular. Whether eaten street-side on tables or delivered to your door, North End Deli makes the most �lling, best-tasting warm focaccias, with quality ingredients that are all fully imported. It also doesn’t skimp on portions. Co-owner Attilio Bottero believes a good sandwich should �ll you up, and that you should taste and enjoy each part of it. Here those parts include mortadella, mozzarella, prosciutto and emmental, which appear frequently on his menu. Thankfully things like provolone, honey-mustard, bacon and smoked ham are also along for the ride.

For mine, the chicken, bacon and Swiss (VND119,000) is a slice of pure sandwich heaven, but now with a 21-strong line up to choose from, everyone will have their favourites. Right up there is the top-selling

Hot Italian (VND139,000), in all its meaty, cheesy spicy glory, while the smoked salmon (VND149,000) drips with cream cheese, cucumber, tomato and honey-mustard dressing.

Get Sandwich HappyIt may look easy to Attilio's customers, but the process of getting there has been complicated.

“Only when we become consistent on something can we add something more,” he says. “It took months to get us to this point, but right now I am happy.”

Hungry people outside of District 2 should also be happy from now on. The guys have just opened a new delivery kitchen in Binh Thanh to spread their focaccia love. You lucky devils. — Jon Aspin

North End Deli is at 80C Xuan Thuy, Q2, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3744 2099. You can �nd them online at facebook.com/thenorthenddelivn


THE WOMEN GAP

A WORLD OF GOODBY DANA MCNAIRN

International Women’s Day (IWD) is observed every Mar. 8 and is, according to the UN, a “time to reflect on progress made, to call for change

and to celebrate acts of courage and determination by ordinary women” in the quest to achieve gender equality, and women’s empowerment and rights.

Yet, last year the World Economic Forum estimated that economic and social progress is inching along so slowly that the global gender gap would not close for another century. The gender gap is measured by looking at disparities between women and men across four key areas; health, education, economics and politics.

I have no doubt this glacial pace in�uenced this year’s IWD theme, Pledge for Parity. Also marking the day is UN Women with their more optimistic theme Planet 50-50 by 2030: Step it Up for Gender Equality. The point remains the same. As IWD says, it’s time to move “from talk to purposeful action.”

But it would seem we’re still not walking our talk.

A hullabaloo broke out when the McKinsey Global Institute produced research claiming that if Country A copied its best neighbouring country in terms of gender equality, US$12 trillion could be added to annual global GDP by 2025. And that’s the base case scenario. If women played a fully equal part in labour markets to men, that �gure could rise to US$28 trillion.

Representation, Retirement and ViolencePeculiar discrepancies remain. It is distressing to realise that in 1997 Vietnam was one of the top 10 countries in the world for women’s political representation and has now slipped to 44th. This prompted the UNDP and the Ministry of Labour, Invalids and Social Affairs (MOLISA) to make a

short �lm highlighting the fact that only 24% of elected positions are held by women.

To combat this steady two-decade decline in women’s participation in the National Assembly, the government has set a target of 35 percent for women’s representation during this year’s election cycle. The simple truth is that women in

government raise issues that directly affect women, and they do it more often than their male counterparts do.

Another discrepancy in Vietnam is the age of retirement for women; 55 for women and 60 for men. This continues to have a negative impact on women’s family planning, earning potential and career advancement. Some positive impact has been delivered with legal frameworks to tackle violence against women and is enshrined in equality and domestic violence laws. But abuse against women remains a troubling issue. Vietnam mirrors global statistics on the number of women — 34%, or one in three — who will experience gender-based violence (typically at the hands of an intimate partner) in her lifetime.

Gender specialists say the issue is exacerbated by a lack of emergency and residential shelters for women and their children trying to escape abuse. These practitioners also say there are ongoing legal and cultural challenges to bringing charges against perpetrators.

Vietnam has made progress towards economic empowerment for women and in areas such as reproductive health and rights, and access to education. This is to be celebrated. However, there is more work to be done, and now.

Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO, an award-winning nonpro�t social enterprise providing vocational training for at-risk youth

Despite much talk, the lack of gender equality between men and women remains


HCMCOn The Town

TAMAGOPAN-JAPANESE 39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 [email protected] on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has in-door and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms. They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Tep-panyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne.

TEMPLE CLUB PAN-VIETNAMESE 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244 Templeclub.com.vnOnce a hotel for Indian dig-nitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmos-pheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.

THE DECK MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632 thedecksaigon.comSet on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative res-taurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, com-plemented by great cocktails and a long wine list.

THE HUNGRY PIGBACON BAR / CAFE144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 4533facebook.com/thehungry-pigcafeThink bacon, bacon and more bacon, all set in airy, spacious atmosphere, and you get The Hungry Pig, an eatery specialising in any-thing from the bacon butty through to the bacon Caesar. A popular hangout.

THE SOCIETYGRILL AND LOUNGE BAR99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3999facebook.com/TheSociety-HCMDesigned as a Laneway-style restobar, the kind of place found in Hong Kong, London, New York or Cen-tral Melbourne, thanks to its indoor and outdoor am-bience, The Society brings dining and drinking to a new level. Phenomenal cocktails, steaks, grilled fare and sea-food make this a place to go for drinks, a full-blown meal or a mixture of both.

TIN NGHIA VEGAN9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eat-eries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.

VESPER GOURMET LOUNGEINTERNATIONALLandmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698facebook.com/vespersaigonHeaded up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a sophisticated yet down-to-earth cocktail bar and res-taurant with subtle lighting and a great spirit selection. Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks and has a separate dining space.

WRAP & ROLL62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971; 226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097wrap-roll.comThe lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hue-influenced cuisine.

YU CHU TOP-END PAN-CHINESE1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1Tel: (08) 3520 9999intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare au-thentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular.

ZEUSGREEK / KEBAB164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3248The service is often slow, and the staff are often surpris-ingly lazy, yet the food here is so good and so unique to this city, that no-one seems to mind. The perfect place to feast out on gyros and all things off a skewer. Cheap, too.

ZOOM CAFÉAMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897vietnamvespaadventures.com/cafe_zoomThis corner-located Vespa-infatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Ca-jun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

M M M

STREET FOOD

BA GHIENCOM TAM84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan

BA NAMBO KHOAlleyway to the left of 162 Tran Nhan Tong, Q10

BANH CANH HOANG TYBANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE70 Vo Van Tan, Q3

BANH CUON HAI NAMBANH CUON11A Cao Thang, Q3

BANH KHOT CO BA VUNG TAUBANH KHOT102 Cao Thang, Q3

BANH MI HONG HOAVIETNAMESE BANH MI62 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1

BANH MI HUYNH HOA‘LESBIAN’ BANH MI26 Le Thi Rieng, Q1

BANH MI SAU MINHVIETNAMESE BANH MI

170 Vo Van Tan, Q3

BANH MI THANH MAI HOANGVIETNAMESE BANH MI107 Truong Dinh, Q3BANH TAM BI TO CHAUBANH TAM271 Nguyen Trai, Q1

BEEFSTEAK NAM SONVIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917 Namsonsteak.com

BUN CHA HA NOIBUN CHA26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1

CHI THONGBUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI195 Co Giang, Q1

COM GA XOI MO SU SUVIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN55 Tu Xuong, Q3

COM TAM 40ACOM TAM40A Quoc Huong, Q2

MI QUANG MY SONMI QUANG38 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1

NAM GIAOBUN BO HUE189 Bis Bui Vien, Q1

PHO DAU PHO BO288/M1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3

PHO HOA PHO BO & PHO GA260C Pasteur, Q3

PHO LEPHO BO413-415 Nguyen Trai, Q5

PHO PHU GIAPHO BO146E Ly Chinh Thang, Q3

PHO PHU VUONGPHO BO339 Le Van Sy, Tan Binh

SUSHI KOSTREET SUSHI122/37/15 Vinh Khanh, Q4

THE LUNCH LADYDAILY CHANGING DISHES23 Hoang Sa, Q1

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751


3 Thang 2 C1

Alexandre de Rhodes B4

An Duong Vuong D1

Ba Huyen Thanh Quan B2, C3

Ban Co C1

Ben Chuong Duong D3, D4, E2, E3

Ben Van Don D4, D5, E3

Bui Thi Xuan C3

Bui Vien D3

Cach Mang Thang Tam B1, C2, C3

Calmette C4

Calmette D4

Cao Ba Nha D3

Cao Thang C1, C2, D2

Chu Manh Trinh B4, B5

Co Bac D3

Co Giang D3, D4

Cong Quynh D3

De Tham C3, D3

Dien Bien Phu A4, B3, C1, C2

Dinh Cong Trang A3

Dinh Tien Hoang A4, B4

Do Quang Dau D3

Do Thanh C1

Doan Nhu Hai D5

Doan Van Bo D5

Dong Du C5

Dong Khoi B4, C4, C5

Hai Ba Trung A2, A3, B3, B5, C5

Hai Trieu C5

Ham Nghi C4

Han Thuyen B4

Ho Hao Hon D3

Ho Tung Mau C4, C5

Ho Xuan Huong C2

Hoa Hung B1

Hoang Dieu D4, D5, E3

Hoang Sa A4, A5

Huyen Tran Cong Chua C3

Huynh Man Dat Binh Thanh A5

Huynh Man Dat Dist. 5 E1

Huynh Thuc Khang C4

Huynh TinH Cua Binh Thanh A5

Huynh Tinh Cua Dist. 3 A2

Huynh Van Banh A1, A2

Khanh Hoi D4, E4

Ky Con C4, D4

Ky Dong B2

Le Cong Kieu C4

Le Duan B4, B5

Le Hong Phong D1

Le Lai C3

Le Loi C4

Le Quoc Hung D4, D5

Le Quy Don B3

Le Thanh Ton B4, B5, C3, C4

Le Thi Hong Gam C4, D4

Le Thi Rieng C3

Le Van Sy A1

Luong Huu Khanh C2

Luu Van Lang C4

Ly Chinh Thang B2

Ly Thai To D1

Ly Tu Trong B4, B5, C3, C4

Mac Dinh Chi B4

Mac Thi Buoi C5

Mai Thi Luu A4

Me Linh A5

Nam Ky Khoi Nghia A2, B3, C4

Ngo Duc Ke C5

Ngo Thoi Nhiem B2, B3, C2

Ngo Van Nam B5

Nguyen Bieu E2

Nguyen Binh Khiem A4, B5

Nguyen Cong Tru C4, C5, D4

Nguyen Cu Trinh D2, D3

Nguyen Dinh Chieu A4, B4, C2, C3,

D1

Nguyen Dinh Chinh A1

Nguyen Du B4, C3

Nguyen Gia Thieu B3

Nguyen Hue C4, C5

Nguyen Huu Canh B5

Nguyen Huu Cau A3

Nguyen Huy Tu A4

Nguyen Khac Nhu D3

Nguyen Khoai E3

Nguyen Ngoc Phuong A5

Nguyen Phi Khanh A3

Nguyen Sieu B5, C4, C5

Nguyen Son Ha C2

Nguyen Tat Thanh D5

Nguyen Thai Binh C4, D4

Nguyen Thai Hoc C3, D3

Nguyen Thi Dieu C2, C3

Nguyen Thi Minh Khai A5, B3, B4,

C2, C3, D2

Nguyen Thien Thuat C1

Nguyen Thong B1, B2

Nguyen Thuong Hien C2

Nguyen Trai C3, D2, E1

Nguyen Trung Truc C4

Nguyen Truong To D5

Nguyen Van Cu D2, E2

Nguyen Van Lac A5

Nguyen Van Mai A2

Nguyen Van Nguyen A2

Nguyen Van Thu A4, B3, B4

Nguyen Van Troi A1

Pasteur B3, B4

Pasteur C4

Pham Hong Thai C3

Pham Ngoc Thach B3

Pham Ngu Lao C3, D3

Pham Viet Chanh D2

Phan Dinh Phung A2

Phan Ke Binh A4

Phan Van Han A5

Pho Duc Chinh C4, D4

Phung Khac Khoan B3, B4

Suong Nguyet Anh C2, C3

Tan Vinh D4, E4

Thach Thi Thanh A3

Thai Van Lung B5

Thi Sach B5, C5

Thu Khoa Huan C4

Ton Dan D5, E5

Ton Duc Thang B5, C5

Ton That Dam C4, C5

Ton That Thiep C4

Ton That Tung C2, C3

Tran Binh Trong D1, E1, E2

Tran Canh Chan D2

Tran Cao Van B4

Tran Dinh Xu D2, D3

Tran Hung Dao D3, E1, E2

Tran Huy Lieu A1, B1

Tran Khac Chan A3

Tran Khanh Du A2

Tran Minh Quyen B1, C1

Tran Nhan Tong D1

Tran Nhat Duat A3

Tran Phu D1

Tran Quang Khai A2, A3

Tran Quoc Thao B1, B2, B3

Tran Quoc Toan A2, B2

Tran Van Dang B1

Truong Dinh B2, B3, C3

Truong Quyen B3

Truong Sa A4, A5

Tu Xuong B2

Vinh Hoi E3, E4, E5

Vinh Khanh D4, D5

Vo Thi Sau A3, B2, B3

Vo Van Tan B3, C2

Vuon Chuoi C2

Xo Viet Nghe Tinh A5

Xom Chieu E5

Yersin C4, D4

XO V

IET NGHE

TINH

NGUYEN TH

I MINH K

HAI

NGUYEN VAN CU

VO THI S

AU

DIEN BIE

N PHU

DIEN BIEN PHU

DIEN B

IEN PH

U

LY THAI TO

LE HONG PHONG

HUNG VUONG

AN DUONG VUONG

VO THI S

AU

VO THI S

AU

PHAN DINH PHUNGNGUYEN VAN TROI

LY CH

INH T

HANG

LY CHINH T

HANG

Nguyen

Dinh Ch

inh

Tran Huy LieuTran Huy Lieu

Nguyen Dinh C

hinh

Huynh Van Banh

Tran Van Dang

Tran Minh Quyen

Tran Minh Quyen

Nguye

n Van

Mai

Nguyen Van Nguyen

Tran Khanh Du

Nguy

en Huu

Cau

Thach Thi Thanh

Truong Quyen

Ly Van Phuc

Hoang Sa

Truong Sa

Hoang Sa

Dinh Co

ng Tra

ng

Ky Do

ng

Hoa Hung

Tran Minh Quyen

Cao Thang

Cao Thang

Pham Viet Chanh

Do Thanh

Nguyen Thuong Hien

Vuon Chuoi

Nguyen

Son Ha

Ban Co

Nguyen Thien Thuat

Tran Binh Trong

Tran Binh Trong

Nguyen Bieu

Huynh Man Dat

Tran Nhan Tong

Tu Xuon

g

Le Van Sy

Tran Quoc Thao

Huynh Tinh Cua

Tran Q

uoc T

oan

Tran

Nha

t Du

at

Tran

Kha

c Ch

an

Tran

Quo

c To

an

Nguyen Huy Tu Nguyen Ngoc Phuong Huyn

h M

an D

at

Phan Van Han

Phan Van Han

Mai Thi Luu

Nguyen V

an Thu

Nguyen

Dinh Ch

ieu

Nguyen

Dinh C

hieu

Ba Huyen Thanh Quan

Ngo Tho

i Nhiem

Ho Xuan

Huong

Nguyen

Thi Di

eu

Ngo Tho

i Nhiem

Mac Dinh Chi

Phung Khac Khoan

Pham Ngoc Thach

Pasteur

Pasteur

Le Quy DonTran Quoc Thao

Nguyen Gia Thieu Vo Van

Tan

Vo Van

Tan

Suong N

guyet

Anh

Luong Huu Khanh

Bui Th

i Xuan

Le Thi Rieng

Nguyen Trai

Nguy

en Tr

ai

Nguyen Trai

Pasteur

Pasteur

Tran C

ao Van

Chu Manh Trinh

Nguyen

Du

Nguyen

Du

Ly Tu Trong

Ly Tu T

rong

Dong Khoi

Dong Khoi

Thu Khoa Huan

Mac Thi

Buoi

Ho Huan Nghiep

Ngo Duc

Ke

Hai Trie

u

Nguyen Cong Tru

Ben Chuong Duong

Ben Chuo

ng Duon

g

Ho Tung MauTon That Dam

Pho Duc Chinh

Thai Van Lung

Thi Sach

Ngo Van Nam

Nguyen

Sieu

Dong D

u

Phan Ke Binh

Nguyen Phi Khanh

Truong Dinh

Truong Dinh

Huyn

h Van

Ban

h

NAM KY KHOI NGHIA

NAM KY KHOI NGHIA

NAM KY KHOI NGHIA

NGUYEN TAT THANH

DINH TIEN HOANG

DINH TIEN HOANG

TON DUC THANG

TON

DUC

THAN

G

TON

DUC

THAN

G

THU THIEM TUNNEL

HAI BA TRUNG

LE LOI

TRAN HU

NG DAO

TRAN HUNG DAO

CACH MANG THANG TAM

CACH MANG THANG TAM

NGUYEN HUE

NGUYEN TH

I MINH K

HAI

LE DUA

N

Vinh Khanh

Vinh Khanh

Le Cong Kieu

Doan Nhu Hai

Ben Van Don

Ben Van Don

Nguyen Truong ToLe Quoc Hung

Doan Van Bo

Hoang Dieu

Hoang Dieu

Ton D

an

Xom Ch

ieu

Tan VinhKhanh Hoi

Hoang Dieu

Yersin

Calmette

TRAN PHU

Bui Vien

Le Van Tam Park

NGUYEN BINH KHIEM NGUYEN BINH KHIEM

NGUYEN HU

U CANH

Zoo & BotanicalGardens

Han Th

uyen

Alexand

re de

Rhodes

LE DUA

N

30 Thang 4Park

DIEN BIE

N PHU

NGUYEN TH

I MINH K

HAI

Nguyen Du

Tao DanPark

NGUYEN THAI HOC

Le Lai23/9 Park

Pham Ngu Lao

Cong Quynh

Nguyen Cu Trinh

Tran Dinh Xu

Ho Hao Hon

Nguyen Khoai

Vinh Hoi Vinh Hoi

Nguyen Khac Nhu

Co Bac

Co Giang

Co Giang

Cao B

a Nha

Tran Canh Chan

Chua P

hat An

De Tham

De Tham

Do Quang Dau

Gia DinhHospital1.5km

Airport3km

Saigon Bridge& Highway 1

3km

District 7& Nha Be

Saigon South4km

Binh TayMarket 3km

District 112km

Tan Binh0.5km

Huyen Tran Cong ChuaNguyen Trung Truc

PHAM HONG THAI

Le Tha

nh Ton

HAI BA TRUNG

Le Tha

nh Ton

HAI BA TRUNG

Luu Van

Lang

Saigon Train Station

Lan Anh Sports & Leisure Club

Vuon ChuoiMarket

Tan DinhMarket

Teacher Training

University

University ofNatural Sciences

War RemnantsMuseum

Labour Culture Palace

Re-unificationPalace

HCMCConservatory

of Music

Ben ThanhMarket

SaigonBus Station

Duc BaCathedral

CentralPost Office

OperaHouse

Ton Duc ThangMuseum

VinaExpress - The Hydrofoil Service

Vung Tau

Thai BinhMarket

Hoa LuStadium

HTVTelevision


QQuu

BBaa

TT

nnhhn

KKHHA

Ton That Tung

Nguyen

Dinh C

hieu

Nguyen Thong

Truong Dinh

Tran Quang Khai

Tran Quang Khai

Huynh Thuc Khang

Ton That

Thiep

HAM NGHI

Le Thanh Ton

Le Lai

Ba Huyen Thanh Quan

3 THANG 2

Ky Con

Dan Sinh Market

Nguyen C

ong Tru

Nam Quoc Cang

1111

AAHAHuAuyA

ynA

nhA

h VA

VA

BBTBTTBTTBTTBTrBrrBrrBrTrTBTrTTrTBTrTTrTBTrTTrTBTrT aBaaBaaBaaBanBnnBnnBnnBnBBBB

CDistrict 11CDistrict 11

DD

N

D

Nh

D

haDaaDaaDaaDanDnnDn TDTTDToDooDoToTDToTToTDToT nDnnDnnDnnDngDggDggDggDggDgDDDDD

EEEE

22D2DD2DI2II2IN2NN2NH2HH2HH2H P2P222

DISTRICT 10DISTRICT 10DISTRICT 10DISTRICT 10DISTRICT 10DISTRICT 10DISTRICT 10

DISTRICT 5DISTRICT 5TDISTRICT 5TTDISTRICT 5TTDISTRICT 5TrDISTRICT 5rrDISTRICT 5rrDISTRICT 5rTrTDISTRICT 5TrTTrTDISTRICT 5TrTTrTDISTRICT 5TrTTrTDISTRICT 5TrTTrTDISTRICT 5TrT aDISTRICT 5aaDISTRICT 5anDISTRICT 5nnDISTRICT 5nnDISTRICT 5n BDISTRICT 5BBDISTRICT 5BBDISTRICT 5BBDISTRICT 5BiDISTRICT 5iiDISTRICT 5inDISTRICT 5nnDISTRICT 5nhDISTRICT 5h

NDISTRICT 5NNDISTRICT 5NNDISTRICT 5NNDISTRICT 5NgDISTRICT 5ggDISTRICT 5ggDISTRICT 5guDISTRICT 5uuDISTRICT 5uuDISTRICT 5uyDISTRICT 5yyDISTRICT 5yyDISTRICT 5yyDISTRICT 5yeDISTRICT 5eeDISTRICT 5enDISTRICT 5nnDISTRICT 5nnDISTRICT 5nnDISTRICT 5n TDISTRICT 5TTDISTRICT 5TTDISTRICT 5TTDISTRICT 5TTDISTRICT 5TTDISTRICT 5TrDISTRICT 5rrDISTRICT 5rrDISTRICT 5rTrTDISTRICT 5TrTTrTDISTRICT 5TrTTrTDISTRICT 5TrT aDISTRICT 5aaDISTRICT 5aaDISTRICT 5aaDISTRICT 5aaDISTRICT 5aiDISTRICT 5iiDISTRICT 5iiDISTRICT 5iiDISTRICT 5iiDISTRICT 5iDISTRICT 5nDISTRICT 5n BDISTRICT 5BDISTRICT 5BDISTRICT 5BiDISTRICT 5inDISTRICT 5nDISTRICT 5DISTRICT 5DISTRICT 5DISTRICT 5DISTRICT 5DISTRICT 5DISTRICT 5DISTRICT 5DISTRICT 5DISTRICT 5DISTRICT 5DISTRICT 5DISTRICT 5

PHU NHUANPHU NHUANNPHU NHUANNNPHU NHUANNNPHU NHUANNNPHU NHUANNNPHU NHUANNNPHU NHUANNNPHU NHUANNNPHU NHUANNNPHU NHUANNNPHU NHUANNNPHU NHUANNGPHU NHUANGGPHU NHUANGGPHU NHUANGUPHU NHUANUUPHU NHUANUUPHU NHUANUUPHU NHUANUUPHU NHUANUYPHU NHUANYYPHU NHUANYYPHU NHUANYEPHU NHUANEEPHU NHUANEEPHU NHUANEEPHU NHUANEYEYPHU NHUANYEYYEYPHU NHUANYEYYEYPHU NHUANYEY NPHU NHUANNNPHU NHUANNNPHU NHUANNNPHU NHUANN

HPHU NHUANHHPHU NHUANHuPHU NHUANuuPHU NHUANuuPHU NHUANuuPHU NHUANuuPHU NHUANuuPHU NHUANuyPHU NHUANyyPHU NHUANyyPHU NHUANyyPHU NHUANyyPHU NHUANynPHU NHUANnnPHU NHUANnnPHU NHUANnnPHU NHUANnnPHU NHUANnnPHU NHUANnhPHU NHUANhhPHU NHUANhhPHU NHUANh VPHU NHUANVVPHU NHUANVVPHU NHUANVVPHU NHUANVaPHU NHUAN

aa

PHU NHUAN

aa

PHU NHUAN

a

PHU NHUANhPHU NHUANh VPHU NHUANVPHU NHUANyPHU NHUANynPHU NHUANnhPHU NHUANhPHU NHUANyPHU NHUANyyPHU NHUANyPHU NHUANyPHU NHUANyPHU NHUANPHU NHUANPHU NHUANPHU NHUANPHU NHUANPHU NHUANPHU NHUANPHU NHUANPHU NHUANPHU NHUANPHU NHUANPHU NHUANPHU NHUANPHU NHUAN1PHU NHUAN11PHU NHUAN11PHU NHUAN1

Le Thi H

ong Ga

m

Nguyen T

hai Binh

ANTIQUESLe Cong Kieu C4

ARMY SURPLUSDan Sinh Market D4

BIKE MAINTENANCENguyen Du C3

BRIDALWEAR 3 Thang 2 C1

CAMERASTon That Thiep C4

CAR COMPONENTSTran Quang Khai A3Ky Con C4, D4

COMPUTERSTon That Tung C2, C3

COOKING INGREDIENTSHam Nghi C4, C5

EVERYTHINGBen Thanh Market C4

FABRICSHai Ba Trung A3

FLOWERSLe Thanh Ton C4

GUITARSNguyen Thien Thuat D1, D2

JAPANESE RESTAURANTSLe Thanh Ton B4, B5

LUGGAGELe Lai C3, C4

MOTORBIKESLy Tu Trong C3

PAINTINGSTran Phu D1Bui Vien D3

PLAQUESNam Quoc Cang C2, D2

SAFESVo Van Tan C3

SEAFOODVinh Khanh D4, D5

SHOESNguyen Dinh Chieu C1, C2Luu Van Lang C4

SPORTSWEARHuyen Tran Cong Chua C3

STATIONERYNguyen Dinh Chieu B3

WEDDING SERVICESNguyen Dinh Chieu D1

HCMCMap


XO V

IET NGHE

TINH

NGUYEN TH

I MINH K

HAI

NGUYEN VAN CU

VO THI S

AU

DIEN BIE

N PHU

DIEN BIEN PHU

DIEN B

IEN PH

U

LY THAI TO

LE HONG PHONG

HUNG VUONG

AN DUONG VUONG

VO THI S

AU

VO THI S

AU

PHAN DINH PHUNGNGUYEN VAN TROI

LY CH

INH T

HANG

LY CHINH T

HANG

Nguyen

Dinh Ch

inh

Tran Huy LieuTran Huy Lieu

Nguyen Dinh C

hinh

Huynh Van Banh

Tran Van Dang

Tran Minh Quyen

Tran Minh Quyen

Nguye

n Van

Mai

Nguyen Van Nguyen

Tran Khanh Du

Nguy

en Huu

Cau

Thach Thi Thanh

Truong Quyen

Ly Van Phuc

Hoang Sa

Truong Sa

Hoang Sa

Dinh Co

ng Tra

ng

Ky Do

ng

Hoa Hung

Tran Minh Quyen

Cao Thang

Cao Thang

Pham Viet Chanh

Do Thanh

Nguyen Thuong Hien

Vuon Chuoi

Nguyen

Son Ha

Ban Co

Nguyen Thien Thuat

Tran Binh Trong

Tran Binh Trong

Nguyen Bieu

Huynh Man Dat

Tran Nhan Tong

Tu Xuon

g

Le Van Sy

Tran Quoc Thao

Huynh Tinh Cua

Tran Q

uoc T

oan

Tran

Nha

t Du

at

Tran

Kha

c Ch

an

Tran

Quo

c To

an

Nguyen Huy Tu Nguyen Ngoc Phuong Huyn

h M

an D

at

Phan Van Han

Phan Van Han

Mai Thi Luu

Nguyen V

an Thu

Nguyen

Dinh Ch

ieu

Nguyen

Dinh C

hieu

Ba Huyen Thanh Quan

Ngo Tho

i Nhiem

Ho Xuan

Huong

Nguyen

Thi Di

eu

Ngo Tho

i Nhiem

Mac Dinh Chi

Phung Khac Khoan

Pham Ngoc Thach

Pasteur

Pasteur

Le Quy DonTran Quoc Thao

Nguyen Gia Thieu Vo Van

Tan

Vo Van

Tan

Suong N

guyet

Anh

Luong Huu Khanh

Bui Th

i Xuan

Le Thi Rieng

Nguyen Trai

Nguy

en Tr

ai

Nguyen Trai

Pasteur

Pasteur

Tran C

ao Van

Chu Manh Trinh

Nguyen

Du

Nguyen

Du

Ly Tu Trong

Ly Tu T

rong

Dong Khoi

Dong Khoi

Thu Khoa Huan

Mac Thi

Buoi

Ho Huan Nghiep

Ngo Duc

Ke

Hai Trie

u

Nguyen Cong Tru

Ben Chuong Duong

Ben Chuo

ng Duon

g

Ho Tung MauTon That Dam

Pho Duc Chinh

Thai Van Lung

Thi Sach

Ngo Van Nam

Nguyen

Sieu

Dong D

u

Phan Ke Binh

Nguyen Phi Khanh

Truong Dinh

Truong Dinh

Huyn

h Van

Ban

h

NAM KY KHOI NGHIA

NAM KY KHOI NGHIA

NAM KY KHOI NGHIA

NGUYEN TAT THANH

DINH TIEN HOANG

DINH TIEN HOANG

TON DUC THANG

TON

DUC

THAN

G

TON

DUC

THAN

GTHU THIEM TUNNEL

HAI BA TRUNG

LE LOI

TRAN HU

NG DAO

TRAN HUNG DAO

CACH MANG THANG TAM

CACH MANG THANG TAM

NGUYEN HUE

NGUYEN TH

I MINH K

HAI

LE DUA

N

Vinh Khanh

Vinh Khanh

Le Cong Kieu

Doan Nhu Hai

Ben Van Don

Ben Van Don

Nguyen Truong ToLe Quoc Hung

Doan Van Bo

Hoang Dieu

Hoang Dieu

Ton D

an

Xom Ch

ieu

Tan VinhKhanh Hoi

Hoang Dieu

Yersin

Calmette

TRAN PHU

Bui Vien

Le Van Tam Park

NGUYEN BINH KHIEM NGUYEN BINH KHIEM

NGUYEN HU

U CANH

Zoo & BotanicalGardens

Han Th

uyen

Alexand

re de

Rhodes

LE DUA

N

30 Thang 4Park

DIEN BIE

N PHU

NGUYEN TH

I MINH K

HAI

Nguyen Du

Tao DanPark

NGUYEN THAI HOC

Le Lai23/9 Park

Pham Ngu Lao

Cong Quynh

Nguyen Cu Trinh

Tran Dinh Xu

Ho Hao Hon

Nguyen Khoai

Vinh Hoi Vinh Hoi

Nguyen Khac Nhu

Co Bac

Co Giang

Co Giang

Cao B

a Nha

Tran Canh Chan

Chua P

hat An

De Tham

De Tham

Do Quang Dau

Gia DinhHospital1.5km

Airport3km

Saigon Bridge& Highway 1

3km

District 7& Nha Be

Saigon South4km

Binh TayMarket 3km

District 112km

Tan Binh0.5km

Huyen Tran Cong ChuaNguyen Trung Truc

PHAM HONG THAI

Le Tha

nh Ton

HAI BA TRUNG

Le Tha

nh Ton

HAI BA TRUNG

Luu Van

Lang

Saigon Train Station

Lan Anh Sports & Leisure Club

Vuon ChuoiMarket

Tan DinhMarket

Teacher Training

University


War RemnantsMuseum

Labour Culture Palace

Re-unificationPalace

HCMCConservatory

of Music

Ben ThanhMarket

SaigonBus Station

Duc BaCathedral

CentralPost Office

OperaHouse

Ton Duc ThangMuseum

VinaExpress - The Hydrofoil Service

Vung Tau

Thai BinhMarket

Hoa LuStadium

HTVTelevision

nhh

TTooToTToT a

AAI

P

Diinn

N

hhi DD

uoonn

AANN

AAI HHO

CCoo

ammDINH

TIENHOANG

Khhaa

TTRR

TrrTrTTrT o

NN

uuoo

huu MM

u TTTrT

NNG

nn

ngg M

NNGUU

G

OperaHouseHouse

HH KHH GardensannQ

uuyyeen

euuBIIEENN

TThguuyyee UUC

i NGDDiinn

hhi NNhh MMIINN Palace

nhh H

iinnhhNNGG

ham NNggu L TThh

Ton That Tung

Nguyen

Dinh C

hieu

Nguyen Thong

Truong Dinh

Tran Quang Khai

Tran Quang Khai

Huynh Thuc Khang

Ton That

Thiep

HAM NGHI

Le Thanh Ton

Le Lai

Ba Huyen Thanh Quan

3 THANG 2

Ky Con

Dan Sinh Market

Nguyen C

ong Tru

Nam Quoc Cang

33333 4444 555

DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1MDISTRICT 1MMDISTRICT 1MDISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 1

DISTRICT 4DISTRICT 4

D

DISTRICT 4

Da

DISTRICT 4aaDISTRICT 4anDISTRICT 4nnDISTRICT 4nDISTRICT 4DISTRICT 4DISTRICT 4DISTRICT 4DISTRICT 4DISTRICT 4DISTRICT 4DISTRICT 4DISTRICT 4DISTRICT 4DISTRICT 4DISTRICT 4

DISTRICT 3DISTRICT 3DISTRICT 3DISTRICT 3DISTRICT 3DISTRICT 3DISTRICT 3DISTRICT 3DISTRICT 3DISTRICT 3DISTRICT 3DISTRICT 3DISTRICT 3DISTRICT 3DISTRICT 3DISTRICT 3DISTRICT 3DISTRICT 3DISTRICT 3DISTRICT 3DISTRICT 3DISTRICT 3

BINH THANHBINH THANHBINH THANHE

BINH THANHEE

BINH THANHE TBINH THANHTTBINH THANHTIBINH THANHIIBINH THANHINBINH THANHNNBINH THANHNHBINH THANHHHBINH THANHH

nBINH THANHngBINH THANHggBINH THANHg SBINH THANHSSBINH THANHSaBINH THANHaaBINH THANHa

h

BINH THANHha

BINH THANHan

BINH THANHnn

BINH THANHn V

BINH THANHVa

BINH THANHan

BINH THANHnn

BINH THANHn H

BINH THANHHH

BINH THANHHa

BINH THANHan

BINH THANHnn

BINH THANHn

BINH THANHBINH THANHBINH THANHBINH THANHBINH THANHBINH THANHBINH THANHBINH THANHBINH THANHBINH THANHBINH THANHBINH THANHBINH THANHBINH THANHBINH THANHBINH THANHBINH THANH

Le Thi H

ong Ga

m

Nguyen T

hai Binh


The Final Say

THE FINAL SAY HANOI

The Last Cake Mould Maker

Deep in Hanoi’s Old Quarter sits the workshop of woodworker Pham Van Quang. Words by Emily Petsko.

Photos by Julie Vola

Pham Van Quang’s woodworking shop, tucked into an inconspicuous nook of the Old Quarter, is just big enough to �t a worktable, lawn

chair, rice cooker and a handful of worn chisels.

His creations — hand-carved wooden cookie and mooncake moulds in ornate shapes — line the walls and dangle from the entryway.

Located on Hang Quat near the intersection with Hang Hom, his shop is close to the backpacker district, but Quang said he seldom sees tourists in his shop. These days, most of his customers are wedding planners, bakers and fortune-tellers who use his products for a number of traditional events.

But his craft is a dying art, he said, lamenting the fact that few people seem to know the meaning behind the images of �sh, turtles and auspicious Chinese symbols that he painstakingly etches into solid blocks of wood.

Cultural PreservationHang Quat has retained its reputation as a woodworking street, but many other craftsmen have gone out of business due to the decline in demand.

“The other areas, they can’t survive with this job,” he said.

Some of Quang’s smaller moulds are used to make mooncakes, traditional treats that are served during the Mid-Autumn Festival. Moulds of Chinese symbols

meaning happiness and longevity are used for weddings, while other moulds are used for funerals and a number of festivals.

For 60-year-old Quang, who inherited the trade from his father, woodworking is more than just an occupation. It’s an act of cultural preservation.

“A lot of people make demands for products, but they don’t really understand the products, they don’t know the culture,” he said.

A traditionalist to the core, he knows the history and folklore behind each symbol. He occasionally consults a couple of

illustrated astrology books while designing stamps for fortune-tellers, which are the tools of their trade, just as the chisel is for Quang’s work.

Every detail is crucial, he said while describing a fellow woodworker who botched a product that featured the traditional Vietnamese symbol of two dragons facing a sun and moon.

“The dragons must be below the sun and moon, but here they made it higher. You know why? Because without the sun, there is no life, there is no religion… and we need to respect the sun,” he said.


The Here and NowIn addition to cookie cutters and stamps, Quang also makes altars for ancestor worship and takes orders for customised products. When asked about the future viability of his business amid declining demand, Quang said he couldn’t think about it — he could only focus on the here and now.

He said his trade is a job like any other, but it also requires skill and passion.

“It’s to make a living. Secondly, if you don’t like this job, you’ll never get anything from this job,” he said. “If you go to work and choose this job, you must like what you do.”

The Final Say

Since this is a photography issue, who better to speak to for this column than the photographers’ photographers, François Carlet-Soulages and Sébastien Löffler from NOI Pictures. The brains behind the first homegrown photography agency in Vietnam,

they give us their thoughts on the industry

Ten 10

What is your photography background? Sébastien: I discovered photography at the Fine Arts University in Paris and then started shooting street photography during my 20s, as well as various assignments and personal projects — including my first trip to Vietnam in 2003.

François: I started photography as a hobby in high school and was a photo editor for four magazines in Paris over four years. Then I became a full-time freelance photographer until NOI Pictures was founded.

When did you get the idea for creating NOI Pictures?François: I think it was around 2005, but the idea became more realistic around 2007. It was urgent to provide clients with reliable photographers and photographers with reliable assignments.

Why did you choose to base yourselves in Hanoi?Sébastien: Because to me Hanoi is one the most exciting places in the world. Even now after eight years living there I get surprised every morning…

François: A bit of destiny and a bit of luck, I always had Asia in my mind since my early childhood. It could have been somewhere else, but I felt incredibly comfortable in Hanoi since my very first day in the city 14 years ago. Though we founded NOI Pictures in Hanoi, we are constantly travelling all over Vietnam and Southeast Asia with photographers also based in Ho Chi Minh City, Danang, Shanghai and Bangkok.

Why is having a homegrown photography agency so important for Vietnam?François: We believe that too many photographers think they can be excellent in every field — which can’t be true — and that can be misleading for clients. NOI Pictures is here to advise and provide clients with an extensive choice of skills and styles, adapted to their specific needs, with guaranteed results.

We also protect the interests of our collaborators; we think it is essential to provide photographers with a reliable structure where they can find support for production. NOI Pictures allows them to focus on what they do best; creating images.

How difficult was it to set up?

Sébastien: It wasn’t really difficult. Since we were the first to open a rep agency in Vietnam, the most exciting part was to share our vision with our staff and photographers to build what we are now; a roster of 11 commercial photographers and more than 40 contributors in our stock image bank.

What problems have you experienced with copyright? How are you resolving this?Sébastien: If a few publications and companies have indeed used some of our photographers’ work without authorization or appropriate licensing, it’s usually due to a lack of information.

Copyright and authorship are notions that are often misunderstood, and everyone in the creative industry has to face similar issues in this still-emerging market. But Vietnam is now open to the world; more and more companies acknowledge that legal control of media usage protects them, by securing the creative work they have invested in.

How easy or difficult has it been to find good photographers to have on your books?Sébastien: There are many talented photographers in Vietnam, but we’re keen on building strong, long-term relationships with collaborators who are willing to share our vision. Mutual trust is essential to guarantee the best work process to our clients.

Since you’ve been running NOI Pictures, how much has photography improved in Vietnam?Sébastien: We now discover emerging photographers who are showing some very interesting work, thanks to social media and local publications. And we recently saw Vietnamese photographers showcased in international festivals and winning prestigious prizes. How’s that for an improvement?

For more info on NOI, click on noipictures.com or images.noipictures.com

Sách Chuyên Quảng Cáo - Not For Sale

Word Vietnam March 2016

Documents

Transcript of Word Vietnam March 2016